SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • April 2021

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• Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery • All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks • A gemstone from the stars

Natural or Laboratory-Grown?

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Learn more at store.GIA.edu ©️GIA 2020. GIA®️ and the GIA logo are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

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SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Operations and Admin: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lamees Mahomed Cell: 084-590-5123 E-mail: lamees@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Gail Keogh Cell: 082-929-4935 E-mail: gail@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ruwayda Mahomed Cell: 072-383-3203 E-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

13. NEWS • Rand Refinery launches 2021 ED Silver Loan and Mentorship Programme • CIBJO launches informational website with guidelines for natural and man-made diamonds • Beyoncé and jewellery designer Lorraine Schwartz create GIA scholarship • Platinum Guild to award US$500 000 grant

16. HANLI SMIT ON PHOTOGRAPHING JEWELLERY Hanli Smit, an accomplished fine art photographer, has carved a professional niche for herself in the field of jewellery photography. She tells to SAJN about the vital role photography plays in a jewellery business’s marketing strategy.

18. A GEMSTONE FROM THE STARS Ever since moissanite was introduced to the jewellery market in 1998, it has increased in popularity. Searches for moissanite went up 294% since 2017 and the moissanite market is currently valued at US$31 million, with expected growth up to US$53 million by 2026, according to MarketWatch.

Many couples today choose moissanite engagement rings due to their beauty, affordability and sustainability.

Ungar Brothers

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

6

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

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APRIL 2021

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35. BUSINESS BAROMETER A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players on a national basis.

• Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery

36. GOLD REEF CITY MINT CELEBRATES 35 YEARS Gold Reef City Mint (GRC Mint) is celebrating its 35th anniversary this month. The development that it has experienced over the years has been both rapid and exciting.

38. ALL THAT GLITTERS: A LOOK AT ILLICIT GOLD NETWORKS South Africa has surfaced as a key transit point for bullion smugglers wanting to channel the precious metal to and from one of the world’s most prolific players in the gold industry – Dubai.

32. ONLINE AND IN PERSON After 15 years in The Firs in Rosebank, Johannesburg, Veronica Anderson Jewellery (VAJ) is now an online-only store. SAJN spoke to Roni Anderson about the challenges of moving fully online and maintaining her inimitable personal touch with her customers after leaving bricksand-mortar behind.

• All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks • A gemstone from the stars

On the cover The basket of products Richline SA offers to the industry has expanded significantly. “We’re extremely excited about the developments at Richline SA and are thrilled to share our new offerings with the industry,” says Managing Director Johan Bezuidenhout. “The past year has thrown the industry a number of curveballs, which makes us grateful to be in a position to offer clients additional products and services to help their businesses thrive. The existing casting processes have been upgraded and expanded. Our new offerings now include 3D printing, specials and repair work. These are in addition to our current services, which

42. THE DARKER SIDE OF GEMSTONES Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

include design, casting, stamping, industrial products and manufacturing.

“We’ve also embarked on a new marketing strategy which includes a digital platform to safely meet with customers and to showcase new product concepts and trends. We look forward to assisting clients with their designs and taking them from an initial concept to a finished product,” says Bezuidenhout.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

For more information, contact Cathy Buys at Richline SA on tel: (011) 418-1600

7

SAJN | ED’S NOTE

Editor’s

note

year this time, our income (as well as theirs) diminished rapidly.

Like most companies, we had to re-strategise – and quickly.

SAJN’s content shifted significantly over the past 12 months as we strove to offer guidance and optimism to the industry we love and serve. We were also compelled to go online-only for seven consecutive issues, for the first time in the magazine’s 92year history, to ensure that our readers who worked from home still received the publication. You might also have noticed that since the printed version of SAJN became available again in September, it’s been somewhat heftier than before – thanks to our new page count. We’ve added more regular industry features and valuable content and have also increased our digital and social media presence. To do all of this, we welcomed new team members (some of them

THE PURPOSE OF AN EDITOR’S NOTE VARIES from publication to publication and its content from editor to editor. Besides sharing my motivation for putting together a specific issue, I’ve always used this space to get a little personal and share some insights into what’s going on in my head (and heart) with our readers.

As I write this, it’s almost exactly a year since South Africa went into its full lockdown on 26 March last year. And if I had to share my thoughts on what’s happened in that period, it would take up the entire magazine.

The impact of this past year can still be seen and felt almost everywhere – and here at SAJN, it’s no different. As with most publications, we rely on advertising and subscriptions to survive, and with our industry being unable to trade last

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old colleagues) whose expertise and skills helped pull us through.

There were many other changes too. Everyone worked harder than ever before. Each person on the team took on new duties and faced numerous challenges in the fight to keep SAJN’s legacy alive. And they all did this for less pay, over longer hours – without a single complaint. The love and passion everyone on team SAJN has for this magazine are astonishing.

So I’m raising a (legal!) glass and proposing a toast by way of tribute – and heartfelt thanks – to you all. We’ve weathered the storm, so here’s to clearer skies, brighter days – and wonderful things in store. Salut!

SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa. Published monthly, this publication brings you scintillating news on current international and local affairs.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

FROM THE CEO OF THE JCSA | SAJN

Message from the CEO Dear members With the introduction of Level 1 lockdown, we have sensed more positivity, with jewellers becoming busier.

The import restrictions have increased the demand for locally produced goods and allowed local manufacturers to replace previously imported jewellery. The manufacturers’ WhatsApp group is constantly busy with jewellers interacting and sourcing products.

The industry is still, however, cautious about money-spend, especially those jewellers whose businesses rely on sales to tourists.

The council recently surveyed the proposed online trade and consumer platforms and responses indicated apathy. A further survey requested members’ input on the proposed Jewellery and Watch Fair, a show that would provide an opportunity for jewellers selling to the consumer, to exhibit at an upmarket venue in Johannesburg. The results also showed that jewellers were not yet of a mind-set to invest in this show. We are in discussions with the Department of Trade & Industry (DTI) about funding for these shows that will subsidise costs to exhibitors.

A proposal will be made to the board of the council to postpone the above projects until the industry is in a better position to support them.

It is my view that online marketing is crucial for the future. Online shopping is growing fast in South Africa, with sales expected to reach

R225 billion within five years. E-commerce only accounts for 2% of SA’s total retail spend.

According to FNB, the average e-commerce spend had already increased by 30% in the first half of 2020, compared with the prior year.

In this regard, the council is exploring ways of assisting jewellers to create e-commerce platforms. Watch this space!

Combatting crime remains one of our most important projects and we continue to work with the Consumer Goods Council of SA, the Council of Shopping Centres, the SA Police Service, the National Prosecuting Authority, private security, insurance brokers and industry.

The Jewellery Council recently commissioned a

consultant, Dr Ivor Blumenthal from ArkKonsult, to work with us over the next year. We have provided the DTI with a wish-list of ways we see them assisting the jewellery industry.

Dr Blumenthal has proposed assisting the council by working with a research institution to facilitate marketing strategies that will influence the DTI regarding policy changes, in order to develop a beneficiation strategy directed at manufacturing revival, the establishment of an export council initiative, with a specific focus on transformation and a black industrialist policy and, lastly, a domestic wholesale and retail revival strategy.

For the council, it is work as usual and we undertake to continue supporting members during these challenging times. However we, too, have experienced challenging times, with members not paying fees and resigning to cut costs. Please bear in mind that the Jewellery Council was created by the industry for the industry and without your support, it will cease to exist. Any association is only ever as strong as the total sum of its members and we therefore encourage you to support the council during these trying times.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

NEWS | SAJN

URGENT SPAM ALERT It has come to the attention of the Jewellery Council of SA and Isikhova Media – publishers of Jewellery Biz-News, SA Jewellery News and Connect, the industry’s bi-annual directory – an individual using various names and the title of “marketing specialist” is circulating an illegal spam e-mail. The individual asks members if they would like to purchase the

SA Jewellery News – Bi-Annual Mailing List.

Please do not respond or engage in any form.

If you receive anything further from her, please forward the e-mail to Isikhova’s Publishing Director, Jason Aarons, at: jason@isikhova.co.za.

The team regards this fraudulent action in a very serious light and is pursuing it as a matter of priority.

PLATINUM GUILD TO AWARD US$500 000 GRANT Platinum Guild International (PGI) will award up to $500 000 to manufacturers, designers or retailers who commit to focusing on platinum jewellery.

The money will go to one or more members of the industry as part of a three-year programme to develop the demand for, and

give out a maximum of US$150 000 within the first two years and up to US$350 000 in the third year. Funding is available for any American-based or American-focused businesses which have experience in designing, manufacturing or selling platinum products.

“Prior to the pandemic, the platinum jewel-

than 60% since 2013,” says PGI USA Vice-President Kevin Reilly. “To continue this trajectory, we believe this newly-established programme will allow for continued growth, taking platinum jewellery sales to unprecedented levels.”

Applications are due by 30 April and funds will be distributed by the end of the year,

accelerate the growth of, platinum jewellery in the USA, says PGI. The organisation will

lery sector of the industry had grown consistently for the past seven years, increasing more

based on a full year of successful execution of the programme, says the guild. – Rapaport

RAND REFINERY LAUNCHES 2021 ED SILVER LOAN AND MENTORSHIP PROGRAMME The 2021 Rand Refinery ED Silver Loan and Mentorship Programme – in partnership with the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP), NQ Jewellers and the SA Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) – was launched last month. As part of its SMME Development Programme, the EJP has selected 18 historically disadvantaged individuals who have registered companies as start-ups.

They are enterprise development candidates to which Rand Refinery has committed in the form of a non-interest silver loan and a 12-month mentorship programme. In conjunction with the EJP ED Graduate Programme, Rand Refinery will offer the services of NQ Jewellery and EJP,

who will provide both sales and marketing mentorship, as well as technical assistance, to the ED candidates.

In an exclusive interview with SAJN, Cecil Khosa, CEO of the SADPMR, said he was extremely excited to be at the launch and see how much the programme had evolved.

“Seeing this year’s programme coming to life and how it’s developed with Rand Refinery and others is wonderful. There’s a long journey to go, but together the return on investment for all involved is seeing these individuals succeed,” he said. Khosa added that the SADPMR would assist by tapping into the strengths of entities

such as the NQA, the Department of Trade & Industry and the Industrial Development Corporation for ideas and ongoing input.

SAJN also spoke to Dean Subramanian, Rand Refinery CFO: “There are many barriers to entry for exceptionally talented jewellery designers.

Together with our partners EJP, NQ Jewellers and the SADPMR, we want the programme to resonate with ‘I can do it!’ By assisting, advising and training these individuals practically and with business acumen, we can meet the challenge and provide access to market for them.”

SAJN will keep readers updated on the programme.

THE WORLD’S FIRST FUNGIBLE DIAMOND COMMODITY LAUNCHED Diamond Standard Co has done something previously thought impossible. The one-yearold start-up has unveiled an initial US$25 million offering of new diamond coins, which can be traded on the market as a regulated commodity, similarly to gold.

The company will purchase 50 000 natural, round brilliant diamonds through the Diamond Standard Exchange, which will be set into 5 000 tokens and issued at a price of US$5 000 apiece. The IGI and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will grade the diamonds, before the IGI inspects, sorts and assembles them

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

into transparent coins. All diamonds weigh 0,23-0,75ct and are spread in equal value throughout the coins.

The IGI will also insert a wireless computer chip and upload the coin onto a blockchain, creating a digital token that is used to transact the coins. After the initial offering, the market value of the coin will be set by buyers and sellers in the market through exchange trading.

“Diamonds are a valuable natural resource, but unusable by institutional investors. Unlike gold and platinum, each diamond is different, so price is negotiable,” explains Cormac

Kinney, founder and CEO of Diamond Standard Co. “We created a diamond commodity by grouping sets of diamonds in a fair and transparent way. The sets are fungible and the diamonds are independently certified, and the key is that they’re sourced through a regulated exchange, with market-driven price discovery.”

Following the initial roll-out, Diamond Standard Co will sell new coins at a small premium or discount to the market-determined price. Coinowners can sell their coins at the current market price through an exchange, or to another buyer at a mutually agreed price, the company explains.

13

SAJN | NEWS

Finest Gemstones, Beads & Unconventional Diamonds Whatsapp for quotes 076 162 3741 Email: gems@ajanta.co.za Tel: 021 422 4677 www.ajantaafrika.com

NEWS | SAJN

Multi-talented performer, album producer and philanthropist Beyoncé Knowles has teamed up with long-time friend and world-renowned jewellery designer Lorraine Schwartz to award two members of the black community the opportunity to earn esteemed credentials in the industry. The global entertainer will personally select two recipients from qualified applicants for the Beyoncé Knowles-Carter x Lorraine Schwartz Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Scholarship. The two scholarships include fully paid tuition and expenses for GIA’s prestigious Graduate Gemologist® programme through distance education. Applications for the scholarship will be accepted from 1-16 March.

“It’s an honour to have this scholarship in my name, but the best part is teaming up with my

friend Lorraine Schwartz to give two people an opportunity to learn,” says Knowles. “We both believe that learning is constant. This is a chance to learn from the best, create generational wealth and turn a love of gems into a career.”

The two women have long shared not only a friendship, but a passion for jewellery. Schwartz gifted Knowles with one of the scholarships for her last birthday and the GIA matched the funds for a second scholarship.

“This scholarship is a homage to Beyoncé for the inspiration she’s given me throughout my career,” says Schwartz. “It’s about the love formed from relationships and knowing that at the end of the day, we’re all the same.

Now I have the opportunity to bring that inspiration full circle and show the community the endless possibilities in this industry, especially for black professionals.”

The GIA’s Graduate Gemologist® programme combines the beauty of gemstones with the science and technical skills needed for students to gain a comprehensive knowledge of diamonds and coloured stones. Throughout the programme, students learn practical skills to evaluate diamonds using the four Cs (colour,

clarity, cut and carat weight), the International Diamond Grading System™ and the Coloured Stone Grading System.

“What makes a career in the jewellery industry so special is that it’s the culmination of art, science and business fused together in a passionate industry which is grounded in community,” says Susan Jacques, GIA President and CEO. “A Graduate Gemologist® diploma provides students with the skills they need to succeed in this industry and opens doors for networking opportunities to expand relationships that are critical for success.”

Images courtesy of Parkwood Entertainment

BEYONCÉ AND JEWELLERY DESIGNER LORRAINE SCHWARTZ CREATE GIA SCHOLARSHIP

CIBJO LAUNCHES INFORMATIONAL WEBSITE ON NATURAL AND MAN-MADE DIAMONDS CIBJO has launched a new informational website called “What is a Diamond?” Its purpose is to inform consumers and members of the jewellery and gemstone industry about the precise terminology that should be used to describe both natural and man-made diamonds.

Located at: www.whatisadiamond.org, the new website is an initiative of CIBJO’s Diamond Commission and was built with the support of the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF. Using the CIBJO Diamond Blue Book as their primary reference, the new website definitions

also comply with ISO Standard 18323 of the International Organisation for Standardisation.

They draw a clear distinction between natural diamonds and synthetic or laboratory-grown or laboratory-created ones, as well as qualifying what are considered natural products and what are considered products made by man.

The website also explains the distinctions used in the Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System of the World Customs Organisation and supplies concise guidelines on the terminology that should be applied by trad-

ers of both natural and man-made diamonds.

“The purpose of the website is to be an easyto-find and simple-to-understand reference point for all those who purchase, sell or handle diamonds,” says CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri. “Our goal isn’t to indicate what’s better or more valuable, but rather to ensure that the public is able to distinguish between the different products in the marketplace. Consumer confidence, which is the bedrock of our industry, is completely dependent on people being able to make informed purchasing decisions.”

SPECTACULAR BANGLES TO TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT UPCOMING SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG AUCTION Sotheby’s Hong Kong will present for sale two breathtaking bangles, each representing in its very own way the pinnacle of bangle design, at its flagship jewellery auction next month.

The first is a diamond and rock crystal bangle-bracelet combining the legendary artistry and craftsmanship of Cartier with a phenomenal 63,66ct pear-shaped internally flawless white diamond (estimated at US$5 160 0008 390 000) and the second, a sensational jadeite bangle weighing 277,673ct and

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

described by the SSEF laboratory as “a true treasure of nature” (estimate upon request).

The Magnificent Jewels sale, which will take place on 20 April, is also distinguished by a wide range of signed jewellery, comprising half of the total offered lots. Celebrating craftsmanship, iconic designs and treasures of nature, the sale will present an impressive jewellery selection from the houses of Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Graff, Harry Winston, Hermès, Sotheby’s Diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels and more.

“The appetite for high-quality jewels has never been stronger in Asia, with discerning collectors looking for rare diamonds and gemstones, as well as unique and iconic designs,” says Wenhao Yu, Deputy Chairperson of Jewellery for Sotheby’s Asia. “The star lot of the sale, the unique diamond and rock crystal bangle-bracelet by Cartier, combines a phenomenal diamond, mesmerising design and impeccable craftsmanship, and represents a high jewellery collectible that will shine through time.”

15

SAJN | PHOTOGRAPHY

e ll

er s

WITH HER GRAPHIC AND FASHION DESIGN background, as well as her love of painting and drawing, Smit has always interwoven creativity into everything she does and is often found not only behind the camera, but actively involved in the actual design of the costume, make-up and props that go into one of her photographic portraits or creations.

Protea Diamonds

Pi y u ve J

ew

Hanli Smit, an accomplished fine art photographer, has carved a professional niche for herself in the field of jewellery photography. She tells SAJN about the vital role photography plays in a jewellery business’s marketing strategy.

VIVE

Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery

Last year, she won the Portrait Category of the Photo Africa Awards as well as the Fashion Section and was chosen as the Photo Africa Awards Photographer of the year for which she won R100 000 worth of prizes from Fuji and Q-Photo.

Tell us about yourself.

I’m an artist who enjoys many genres, but I wish I’d started photography in earnest at a younger age, as it’s the most expressive medium. I feel that with modern technology and amazing software, almost anything you dream up can be executed.

When did you get your first camera and what made you decide to pursue a career in jewellery photography?

My first camera was a plastic Kodak when I was

16

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

What are the characteristics of good jewellery photography?

A beautiful picture of the wedding bands at a wedding isn’t the same as the images we capture in the studio for commercial purposes. However good that image is, it will still have too many distractions reflecting into the ring. The jewellery for a commercial shoot must be the “hero” in the shot and not the other items around it, unless it’s meant to be a lifestyle shoot. We often recreate life for Instagram contents, but not for products in advertisements or on websites.

How would you describe your photographic approach?

I believe every new job is a new challenge and I must do it better than I did the last job. In that way, one never becomes complacent, but keeps growing and improving.

What was the first jewellery piece you photographed?

Silver charms and necklaces were the subjects of my first attempts at jewellery photography for a client who wanted me to print banners for Jewellex (I used to own a digital print shop). The client arrived with Internet images from his supplier. I offered to re-photograph it so that we could get a better quality for printing purposes.

When searching for a photographer, what should a jewellery brand look for?

There are many great local photographers.

For me, it’s the connection you make with

If you were shooting the same photo now, would the result be different?

I’d definitely get better results now because after 15 years, I’ve learnt a few tricks and I’ve collected an array of equipment that I didn’t have when I started out.

What’s your favourite photograph of all the ones you’ve taken?

Mostly the last photo. As I’ve mentioned, I need to be happy with what I’ve done and feel it was my best work. If not, I reshoot it until it feels right.

How do you see jewellery photography evolving in the future?

The future of jewellery photography may be influenced by the way a CAD illustration can look as good as or even better than a photo.

For a photographer, that’s the biggest competition, so one needs to achieve an image that’s as pristine and perfect as a CAD drawing/illustration. That, in itself, isn’t impossible if the product was manufactured perfectly. My macro-lens can detect imperfections that the naked eye can’t pick up. I need to get up close and personal with even the tiniest pendant or charm and then edit it to perfection. That’s another skill I’ve honed over the years.

Ungar Brothers

I don’t think it’s unique as much as it’s complicated, because everything will reflect in the piece. You need to be very careful and mindful of any object in the studio when you’re shooting jewellery.

VIVE

your client – if you listen to them and understand their needs, you can achieve a good end result. This is something I’ve learnt from being a graphic designer.

Tatum Diamond London

VI

What’s unique about photographing jewellery and why should a jewellery brand work with a photographer who specialises in it?

I don’t think it’s unique as much as it’s complicated, because everything will reflect in the piece. You need to be very careful and mindful of any object in the studio when you’re shooting jewellery. That’s why I think it’s better to use a specialist, as my studio is permanently set up for product photography.

VE

in matric. When I bought my first film camera, it was a Canon so, naturally, when we all switched to digital, I went for a Canon again.

I studied graphic design after finishing school and took a year off when I was 29 to study fashion design. In both those fields, it’s very handy to know your way around a camera.

Richline SA

PHOTOGRAPHY | SAJN

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

17

SAJN | GEMSTONES

All images courtesy Charles & Colvard

A gemstone from

Ever since moissanite was introduced to the jewellery market in 1998, it has increased in popularity. Searches for moissanite have increased by 294% since 2017 and the moissanite market is currently valued at US$31 million, with expected growth up to US$53 million by 2026, according to MarketWatch. Many couples today choose moissanite engagement rings due to their beauty, affordability and sustainability.

18

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

GEMSTONES | SAJN

the stars ALTHOUGH MOISSANITE RESEMBLES DIAmond, the two are actually very different. Moissanite is a stone in its own right, meaning that it is simply a diamond look-alike – not a diamond imitation. Diamonds are made of carbon, whereas moissanites are made of pure silicon carbide – an extremely rare, naturally occurring mineral.

Moissanite was discovered in a meteorite

by Henri Moissan in 1893. When Moissan – who later won the Nobel Prize for chemistry – first discovered the new mineral, he believed it to be a diamond and it was not until 1904 that he realised it was actually a different mineral altogether.

The natural moissanite he discovered is exceptionally rare and, as such, the moissanite sold today is produced by laboratories.

It was first introduced to the jewellery market in 1998, after Charles & Colvard received patents to create and market the gemstones, becoming the first firm to do so (all patents expired worldwide in 2018). In SA, Moissanite SA was the first company to introduce moissanite to the local trade in 1999.

“It was during a Jewellery Council roadshow I attended with my wife, who was part of the diamond industry, that I first heard of moissanite,” recalls Leo Levine, proprietor of the company. “I was impressed by this remarkable gemstone right away and saw it as a fantastic opportunity. I approached Charles & Colvard and was awarded the distribution rights in this

country. Today, Moissanite SA has expanded its footprint to New Zealand and Australia as well.

“However, I think a lack of marketing in the late 1990s failed to show the world the properties of this incredible gemstone. Luckily, word of mouth caught up and through new marketing strategies, its popularity took off globally,” says Levine.

Ever since its discovery, it has been very interesting to the scientific eye. It has also been making waves on the engagement ring scene, with more and more brides choosing moissanite.

Here are a few fascinating facts about the stone: Moissanite fell from the stars It is amazing that the first sample of natural moissanite was found inside a meteorite (meaning that it came from outer space), but even more amazing is that this stone originated beyond our solar system. Recent studies of moissanite have shown anomalous isotopic ratios of carbon and silicon and 99% of these grains originate around asymptotic giant branch stars.

Natural moissanite can almost be described as the essence and beauty of a dying star far away, captured in a stone. Because of this, it has an

It is amazing that the first sample of natural moissanite was found inside a meteorite (meaning that it came from outer space), but even more amazing is that this stone originated beyond our solar system.

enchanting nickname among jewellery enthusiasts: stardust.

Moissanite has incredible brilliance The ability of a gemstone to reflect white light is known as its brilliance. The amount of light a gem reflects is its refractive index. Moissanite is distinct from diamonds because it reflects more light. It is also less likely to attract dirt and grime and stays more brilliant between cleanings.

Moissanite is hard-wearing Moissanite is the second-hardest gemstone on earth (after diamonds) and is more durable and scratch-resistant than other popular gemstones. While all gemstones can become scratched (including diamonds), moissanite ranks as one of the most daily wear-resistant of them.

Moissanite can take the heat While many gemstones do not do well when exposed to heat, moissanite has an incredibly high melting point of 2 730 °C, which will withstand a jeweller’s torch during resizing or repairs to the ring setting. Moissanite’s heat tolerance can even withstand house fires. Its colour does change temporarily while under heat or a jeweller’s torch, but reverts back to its original shade once it cools down.

Naturally occurring moissanite is extremely rare Moissanite is by far the rarest jewel on earth. In fact, naturally occurring quantities of it are so minute that they are unsuitable for use in jewellery. Because of this, most of the moissanites one sees in jewellery today have been grown in controlled laboratory environments.

Although completely different, diamonds and moissanites do look similar Colourless and near-colourless moissanites do resemble diamonds. Moissanite is also the only gemstone that “passes” for a diamond on a standard hand-held diamond point tester.

However, moissanite’s extreme fire (its dispersion is twice that of a diamond) gives it away in most brilliant-cut stones.

Moissanite is sold by millimetre, rather than by carat weight The carat is the traditional unit of measurement for a diamond’s weight. Moissanite is not measured in carats because it weighs approximately 10% less than diamond. All stones for sale are listed with their size in millimetres and/or the diamond equivalent weight in carats.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

19

AUTHORISED DISTRIBUTORS OF CHARLES

COLVARD MOISSANITE SINCE 1999

Charles & Colvard - The original creators of moissanite

®

Contact us for the latest trade pricing.

Exclusively distributing Charles & Colvard moissanite since 1999.

The Market Leaders - Where you can buy with absolute confidence

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 17

ISSUE 17 GEMSTONES A-Z TANZANITE

Value

History and origin

Colour is the most important determinant of value.

Tanzanite is normally eye-clean and devoid of inclusions.

Unfortunately, inexperienced cutters in Tanzania produce gems with poor proportions and polish. This lowers their value, as they have to be re-polished with a resultant loss in weight. One of the appealing features of tanzanite is that it changes colour depending on the light source. In sunlight, the gem appears more blue whereas under incandescent light, its violet component is accentuated. Another unique feature is that smaller stones are normally of a less intense colour than the larger ones. This is unlike other gems, where even the smallest one can have an intense colour.

Small dark blue tanzanites thus carry a price premium.

It was discovered in 1967 in Tanzania by a Masai tribesman who picked up the blue gems after a veld fire had swept the area. The heat from the fire had turned common brown zoisite crystals into a wonderful blue.

A prospector/geologist, Manual de Souza, took the blue zoisites to Germany where he met Harry Platt, Chairperson of Tiffany & Co. Tiffany named the gem “tanzanite” and introduced it to the USA. The world’s only deposits of tanzanite occur around the Merelani Hills in Tanzania. A heavy El Nino monsoon storm caused the collapse of the mines in 1998, which resulted in the loss of many lives. The Tanzanian government then gave the sole rights to nearly 70% of the deposits to a South African mining group, Afgem, who upgraded the mining methods, and, with a secure source in hand, started to promote tanzanite on a global scale.

Today, tanzanite is one of the three most popular coloured gems. It is also recognised as the birthstone for November.

Natural zoisite is normally an unattractive reddish-brown mineral that changes to a beautiful violet-blue colour when heated to about 450º C. An unheated tanzanite with a bluish colour is scarce and difficult to identify. Three trichroic colours, blue, violet blue and a yellow component, are visible in unheated gems. Heated gems have lost the yellow component. Fancy colour (pink, green and yellow) zoisite is also available in limited quantities. These appeal mostly to gemstone collectors and should not be called “fancy colour tanzanite”.

The price of tanzanite has increased dramatically as demand soared recently. Fine-quality 1-2ct well-cut gems can cost US$350-450/ct, while the larger gems can fetch US$700-1 000/ct. The paler, more commercial qualities can be bought for approximately US$200/ct.

Grading Various quality grading systems are in use. Some use AAA to denote the best colour, while others use terminology such as vB1+ to vB5 (which describes a gem with blue as the dominant colour, ie, violet-blue) and bV1+ to bV5 (which indicates the colour intensity of a blue-violet gem with a violet component in excess of 20%).

Bluish-violet (bV) colour in tanzanite.

Violet-blue (vB) colour in tanzanite.

Care and cleaning

Top row (from left): Tanzanite - violet-blue and blue-violet, and pale, natural colour (unheated). Bottom row: Gem zoisite - purple, greyish green and dark green (incorrectly called “fancy tanzanite”).

Tanzanite has a hardness of 6,5 and is less durable than quartz. It is ideally suited for eveningwear or moderately active daytime use, preferably not in rings. Ordinary dust, which contains quartz, can scratch tanzanite. Clean by washing with soapy water before wiping the gem clean. Never use ultrasonic or steam-cleaning methods.

Goldsmiths should take extra care when setting tanzanite, as heat and undue pressure can damage the gem.

AN INTRODUCTION GEMSTONES TOA-Z GEMSTONES

Synthetics and treatments A synthetic olivine with a tanzanite-like violet-blue colour due to trace amounts of cobalt has been on the market since 1999. It is easy to differentiate from natural tanzanite.

The latter has a refractive index (RI) of 1,691-1,704 while its “look-alike” has a RI of 1,636-1,672. The scarcity of deep blue tanzanite in smaller sizes has resulted in such stones being coated with a cobalt compound. This is easy to detect, as the coating produces an iridescence when the stone is observed in reflected light.

TASHMARINE Discovered in 2001 near the city of Tashkent in Uzbhekistan, it is a slightly greyish-green to yellowish-green gem variety of the silicate mineral diopside. It has a hardness of 5,5, is relatively free of inclusions and comes in fairly large sizes. In the USA, it is available at prices ranging from US$60-150/ ct. Ultrasonic cleaning is acceptable.

TIGER’S EYE When silica-rich waters permeated through rocks containing layers of blue asbestos, as Rough tiger’s eye, 20 cm length. happened in Griqualand West, South Africa, the asbestos fibres changed into quartz fibres stained by yellow hydrous iron oxides (limonite). The resultant rock is a beautiful golden-brown pseudomorph after the asbestos, which, when polished, exhibits a striking silky lustre with yellow and dark brown bands which reverse in colour as the stone is turned. When the blue asbestos is silicified but not stained by iron oxides, the blue stone is known as “ Hawk’s eye”. If blue and yellow colours are combined in one specimen, it is known as “Zebra stone”. When yellow tiger’s eye is heated, the limonite changes into a red iron oxide (hematite) and the brownish-red stone is called “ Bull’s eye”. Near Outjo in Namibia, a brecciated rock containing fragments of tiger’s eye is found and marketed under the name “ Pietersite”.

These tiger’s eye varieties are mostly cut and polished into beads, cabochons, blocks and plates or even carved as cameos. Beads can cost from US$10-15 per string.

TOURMALINE Tourmaline is a group of closely related minerals with a very complex chemistry. Its name derives from the Singhalese word turmalli, meaning “mixed colours”. It is one of the birthstones for October.

The complex chemistry of tourmaline results in most unusual colours, as well as some quite unique properties.

In the 18th century, Professor W Goodchild described that when tourmaline is heated to 150 ºC, one end of the crystal The colours of tourmaline. becomes positively charged while the other end obtains a negative electric charge.

This characteristic is called piezoelectricity and causes the unusual attraction which tourmaline has for dust.

All continents produce tourmaline. Important sources are the deposits near Karibib in Namibia, in Tanzania and Madagascar, those in the state of Maine, USA, in Minas Gerais, Brazil, and in Sri Lanka.

Varieties Pink and red tourmalines (red tourmaline is also called rubellite) are the most sought-after. Although they tend to be more included than the other colours, they are normally more expensive than the greens and blues. Sri Lanka and Namibia are the most important sources of these gems.

Prices range from US$150-300/ct for 5-10ct for rubellite and fine pinks which are not heavily included. Heavily included reds/pinks will cost much less.

Green tourmaline is the most common variety and its colour varies from olive green to bluish-green. It is called verdelite and can be bought from US$35-75/ct for fairly large gems.

A special vivid green tourmaline contains trace amounts of chromium and is called chrome-tourmaline. Its price ranges from US$250-425/ct.

Blue tourmaline is called indicolite, is quite rare and can cost up to US$250/ct.

An unusual electric blue tourmaline was discovered a few decades ago near Paraíba, Brazil. Copper is the element that causes the unusual blue colour. Paraíba tourmaline is the most expensive tourmaline and is priced at US$3 0005 000/ct. Most of these gems weigh less than a carat.

Much larger Curich tourmalines with less saturation, thus of lesser value, come from Mozambique.

Copper-rich tourmaline from Mozambique (left) and from Paraíba (right).

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Brown (dravite), colourless (achroite) and black (schorl) tourmalines are seldom used in jewellery.

Parti-coloured tourmalines contain more than one colour and these fade into each other. Colour combinations are endless, from green/red to yellow-green/purple and greenish-blue/orangy-red.

A special type of tourmaline has a pink to red core and a green outer rim. This is often cut into slices across the length of the crystal and is appropriately called watermelon tourmaline.

Watermelon tourmaline.

Enhancements Although some tourmalines may be heated to improve their colour, such treatment cannot be detected and is thus not even mentioned by jewellers.

recorded facetted topaz weighs more than 40 000ct.

Its colour can vary from colourless (called silver topaz) to light blue, golden yellow, orange-yellow, brown, red, light green and pink.

London blue (left) and Swiss blue irradiated topaz.

The colours of topaz.

Value Fine-quality blue topaz (1-5ct) can be priced from US$3-5/ct. Under 20ct, the maximum price could be US$20/ct, whereas larger gems are much cheaper. Above 50ct the price falls to US$2-5/ct. Extra-fine quality golden topazes can fetch up to US$150/ct. When it has a red overtone and is labelled as Imperial, the price could jump to US$500/ct. Good Imperials can still be bought for about US$200/ct. Irradiated blue topaz is plentiful and varies in price, around a few dollars per carat.

Care and cleaning Because tourmaline attracts dust (which contains quartz), even when heated in a showcase, it must never be wiped with a cloth if not cleaned first in soapy water.

Synthetics Very little, if any, synthetic tourmaline is on the market.

TOPAZ Topaz is an aluminum silicate containing some fluorine and hydroxyl. Although topaz comes in many colours, blue is the most popular. All colours of topaz are accepted as the birthstone for November.

The name “topaz” may come from the Greek work topazos, meaning “to seek”, or perhaps from the Sanskrit word tapas meaning “yellow fire”. The most sought-after topaz has a reddish-yellow colour, often referred to as Imperial topaz.

Topaz is mined on all continents with Brazil, USA, Mexico and Sri Lanka being the main producers. The original Imperial topaz comes from Brazil.

Qualities Topaz is normally devoid of inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye and occurs in very large sizes. The largest

Enhancement Certain colourless topazes can be irradiated and heated to produce different shades of blue. Light-coloured blues are called Swiss blue. Moderately dark blues are called American blue or sky blue, while the darker ones are referred to as London blue.

A recent method by which trace elements are diffused into the topaz crystal structure produces beautiful, intense green topaz. Its trade name is “evergreen topaz”.

Care and cleaning Topaz is quite hard (H=8) and can withstand scratches better than most coloured gems, including emerald and quartz. However, it has a “perfect” basal cleavage along which the gem will split if incorrect pressure is applied.

Gem setters must therefore be careful when setting a topaz. They should know that gem cutters normally position the cleavage direction at a 10-15° angle to the table facet.

TORTOISESHELL The shell of the hawksbill sea turtle is softened and laminated under heat and pressure to produce a semitransparent to translucent organic material that is carved into hair accessories, buttons and ornaments. It

GEMSTONES A-Z

became very popular in Victorian times. It has a mottled texture and is normally of a yellow to brown colour. A black and white variety also exists. The hawksbill turtle is an endangered species and supplies of tortoiseshell are limited. Brazil, the West Indies, the Indian and Pacific Oceans are the main sources.

Tortoiseshell is often dyed into other colours and frequently imitated by plastic material.

TURQUOISE Turquoise is a massive opaque, green to blue, copper aluminum phosphate mineral which is used in beads, cabochons, carvings and inlays. The name probably derives from “Turkish stone”, which could have referred to the Persian turquoise trade route which passed through Turkey.

Identification Numerous spherical particles can be seen with magnification and, when touched by a hot needle, a burning hair smell will be obvious. Plastic imitations will smell and feel like plastic.

Care and cleaning Avoid ultrasonic and steam-cleaning. Wash with a cloth in warm, soapy water. Boiling water will soften the item and/ or darken the colour.

TSAVORITE This lovely green garnet was discovered at the same time as tanzanite in the Merelani area in Tanzania. Subsequent discoveries were made in the Tsavo Game Reserve Tsavorite, 3,1ct.

(Kenya), hence the name, in southern Tanzania at Tundura and Ruangwa, and at Gogogogo in southern Madagascar. It received much less attention than tanzanite because of its scarcity, absence of large crystals and a lack of promotion. The green colour is due to the presence of vanadium and traces of chromium.

Turquoise pebble and two polished pieces, one with “spider webbing”.

Lore Egyptian priests and nobility wore turquoise carvings and beads 6 000 years ago. The mummy of King Tutankhamen (1370-1352 BC) was richly decorated by turquoise inlays and scarab carvings. Turquoise could have been America’s first currency, as it played an important role in Native American culture dating back to 700 BC. Persia was, for centuries, the world’s foremost source. Writings from the 12th century BC indicate that Isaac, son of Abraham, opened the mines at Neyshabur in the north-eastern mountains of Persia. Some are still in operation and are known as the Isaac mines. Turquoise jewellery became fashionable during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901).

Qualities

Colour and value The darker and more saturated green colours, with an absence of yellow, are the most valuable. The more plentiful and paler tsavorites have a distinct yellowish-green colour.

Fine qualities, normally less than 3ct, can fetch prices from US$600-1 200/ct, while the more commercial stones can be bought from US$300-500/ct.

There are no enhancement processes known.

Two varieties of turquoise are considered desirable. Both types have a pure blue colour that is described as robin’s egg. The traditional, and specifically the Eastern favourite, is a pure, even-coloured gem with a high polish. Buyers from the new world prefer to see a web-like veining (called spider webbing) spread evenly throughout the stone.

Turquoise is formed in a host rock which is either black or brown. This host material is called matrix, which occurs as veins in the gem.

Care and cleaning Tsavorite has a hardness of 7-7,5 (near that of quartz), so it should be washed clean, rather than wiped with a cloth that may contain dust (quartz).

Value The price of turquoise depends mainly on its colour and, to a lesser degree, on its lustre. Lustre is affected by

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hardness and density. Softer and porous material cannot be polished to produce the required lustre. The hardness of turquoise can vary from 2 to almost 6 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, while its SG can vary from 2,6-2,9.

Inferior qualities will have a pale greenish-blue colour and will feel lighter. Its surface may be pitted, with polish lines and a dull finish. In ancient times, turquoise was more valuable than gold. Large fine-quality gems (20ct plus) are rare.

For fine gems under 5ct, prices can vary between US$4080/ct, while 5-10ct gems can reach US$150/ct. However, the normal good commercial turquoise can be bought for US$3-10/ct. Chinese turquoise of lesser quality is sold for US30 cents/ct.

Enhancements There are four methods to improve the quality of turquoise: •

Centuries ago, turquoise was immersed in animal fat to give it a desired “wet” look.

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Stabilisation – porous turquoise is impregnated with a colourless epoxy resin that will harden the stone, allowing a better polish.

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Colour enhancement is obtained by mixing a dye with the epoxy.

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Reconstructed turquoise is made by compressing pulverised turquoise and epoxy resin to look like the real thing.

Imitations and synthetics For centuries, ceramics, glass, plastics and celluloid have been used to imitate turquoise.

Man-made (synthetic) turquoise, with or without spider webbing, is available. Those with a “matrix” are easy to identify, as the matrix appears unnatural. The pure, finequality synthetic product is difficult to identify.

Care and cleaning Over-exposure to light or heat can impart a greenish hue to turquoise, while chemicals in perfume, cosmetics and perspiration can damage the stone. Rough handling will scratch its surface.

YAG YAG is a colourless synthetic material (made from yttrium, aluminum and oxygen) with a garnet-like atomic structure (cubic system). It is known as yttrium aluminum garnet and abbreviated as YAG. Because its optical properties are close to those of a diamond, it has been extensively used to imitate diamonds and is sold under various trade names such as diamonite, triamond, diamonique and a host of others. It can be identified by the see-through effect, an absence of inclusions and possible gas bubbles.

ZIRCON Zircon is a mineral (ZrSiO4) which often contains trace amounts of radioactive elements such as uranium and thorium. Radiation from these elements, over millions of years, gradually breaks down the zircon structure, leaving it nearly amorphous and quite fragile. Zircon occurs in yellow, brown, green, orange, red and most often blue colours. The latter is used as December’s birthstone.

Zircon, natural colours. Sizes vary from 7ct (oval) to 3ct (pinkish).

It has optical properties much like diamond, ie, high dispersion and good brilliance, and when colourless, has often been mistaken for diamond. It has, however, a very high double refraction and doubling of facet edges can be seen under magnification. Its high density (SG = 3,90-4,73) can be identified by an experienced jeweller by feeling the heft (weight) of the gem on the palm of his hand.

Sri Lanka and Thailand have been the traditional sources, but recent discoveries in Cambodia, Tanzania and Kenya supply fine qualities.

Enhancements Heating natural reddish-brown zircon to 1 000 ºC will either remove all colour or produce a beautiful blue gem.

This has been done since the 14th century to produce diamond look-alikes that were called Ceylon diamonds .

This heat treatment renders the gem brittle and its facet edges are often pitted or abraded. Its hardness varies from 6-7,5, depending on how much its crystal structure has been damaged by radioactive decay.

GEMSTONES A-Z

Simulants and imitations Zircon is not produced by man. Unfortunately, many people still confuse natural zircon with synthetic cubic zirconia, which is a man-made diamond simulant.

Value Fine-quality blue zircon in 3-5ct sizes can sell for US$4590/ct, while other colours are less expensive at US$2050/ct. Average-quality blues can be bought for as little as US$10/ct.

Care and cleaning Most colourless and blue zircons are heat-treated and can scratch when worn without care. Some blues may revert to green under strong sunlight. This must be disclosed to a client.

The goldsmith should never bring a torch near any zircon and a setter has to take extreme care when setting a zircon with a thin girdle.

ZOISITE Zoisite is a mineral specie in the epidote group of minerals. Until 1967, it was known only as a source of ornamental material. When a dark violet-blue variety was discovered in the Merelani Hill in Tanzania, it was marketed as tanzanite which, with clever marketing and promotions, became one of the most sought-after gemstones of the 21st century.

GEMS YOU MAY HEAR OF, BUT NEVER SEE A number of extremely rare natural gemstones have been discovered in the past 60 years. These you may hear of, but will probably never see. They are sought-after by collectors and are often not suitable for jewellery.

BRAZILIANITE Discovered in 1942 in Brazil, it was the first new gem discovery in 35 years. It is a vivid yellowish-green gem with a hardness of 5,5.

TAAFFEITE Only 12 gems have been found. It is a violet, double refractive beryllium magnesium aluminate that looks like natural spinel.

SINHALITE Discovered in 1952 in Sri Lanka and named after the native word for “Ceylon”. It is a pale yellowish to dark brown gem and extremely rare.

PAINITE The rarest of the rare gem minerals. Only a few dark red painite crystals have been discovered which now reside in the GIA’s gem and mineral collection.

MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT 2021 In issue 18 (SA Jewellery News May edition): Measuring physical and optical properties of gemstones Specific gravity Refractive index Single and double refraction Pleochroism Optic character Magnification Fluorescence Phosphorescence Other instruments

Mexico fire opal, quartz varieties, topaz, turquoise, feldspars

Tanzania – tanzanite, tsavorite, emerald, garnets.

Persian Gulf – pearls

Chile – lapis lazuli

Tahiti pearls

United States sapphire, ruby, emerald, aquamarine, quartz varieties, topaz, tourmaline, peridot, garnets, nephrite, turquoise, sunstone, red beryl, feldspars, spodumene, pearls

Honduras – opal

Hawaii peridot, coral

Canada diamond, amethyst, garnet, nephrite, labradorite, feldspar, amber, sodalite, ammolite

Bolivia ametrine

Guyana diamond

Venezuela diamond, jasper, pearls

Colombia emerald

Guatamala jadeite

Argentina rhodochrosite, quartz varieties

Dominican Republic amber

West Indies coral

Brazil diamond, emerald and other beryls, opal, quartz varieties, tourmaline, topaz, garnets, chrysoberyl, amazonite

Central African Republic diamond

Nigeria sapphire, aquamarine, topaz, spinel

Sierra Leone, Ghana, Ivory Coast diamond

Italy tourmaline, amber, coral, serpentine

Spain aventurine, quartz, jet

Alps quartz varieties, feldspar, fluorite

UK smoky quartz*, jet*, fluorite

Namibia diamond, aquamarine, quartz, agate, tourmaline, topaz, mandarin garnet, sodalite, demantoid

Zambia emeralds, chrysoberyl, malachite

Germany amethyst * agate * topaz *

Poland chrysoprase*, amber

Finland labradorite

South Africa diamond, emeralds*, quartz, tourmaline, Transvaal jade, rhodochrosite, verdite, royal lavulite

Zimbabwe emerald, aquamarine, quartz, topaz, tourmaline, garnets, chrysoberyl, verdite, diamond

Botswana diamond, agate

Angola diamond

Egypt emerald*, jasper, peridot, turquoise*

Zaire diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline, garnets, chrysoberyl, feldspars, tanzanite

Mozambique smoky quartz, tourmaline

Romania chalcedony, amber, rhodolite, moldavite

Czech Republic opal*, pyrope garnet*

Austria emerald*, almandine

Norway emerald*, peridot, pyrope garnet, aventurine, feldspar

Madagascar aquamarine and other beryls, quartz, sapphire, ruby, spodumene, chrysoberyl, feldspars, topaz and tourmaline

Kenya ruby, sapphire, aquamarine, amethyst, tourmaline, garnets, spinel, feldspar, tsavorite

Iran turquoise

Pakistan ruby, emerald, aquamarine, garnet, spinel, topaz

India diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, quartz, almandine garnet, chrysoberyl, moonstone, rhodolite, star iopside, sodalite, pearls

Thailand, Vietnam ruby, sapphire, almandine garnet, zircon

Burma ruby, sapphire, quartz, topaz, tourmaline, peridot, zircon, spinel, chrysoberyl, jadeite, moonstone, kunzite, amber, other rare varieties

Sri Lanka ruby, sapphire, amethyst, tourmaline, topaz, zircon, garnets, chrysoberyl, spinel, moonstone, Iolite, other rare species

Afghanistan ruby, aquamarine, spinel, tourmaline, lapis lazuli, kunzite

New Zealand nephrite

Australia opal, sapphire, diamond, emerald, chrysoprase, jasper, nephrite, pearls, coral

Indonesia diamond

Taiwan nephrite

Russia, Urals, Siberia diamond, emerald and other beryls, quartz, chrysoprase, tourmaline, topaz, demantoid, garnet, alexandrite, nephrite, lapis lazuli, feldspar, malachite

Areas such as Africa, Brazil and India are rich in varieties and have produced gems for centuries. Other localities yield a single gem of exceptional quality such as Mogok in Burma (Myanmar). The symbol * indicates deposits of historic importance only.

GEMSTONE DEPOSITS OF THE WORLD

China nephrite, ruby, sapphire, aquamarine, amethyst, peridot, diamond, turquoise, amber, jadeite

Japan jadeite, topaz, quartz, coral, rhodolite

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SAJN | BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

Online and in person

After 15 years in The Firs in Rosebank, Johannesburg, Veronica Anderson Jewellery (VAJ) is now an online-only store. SAJN spoke to Roni Anderson about the challenges of moving fully online and maintaining her inimitable personal touch with her customers after leaving bricks-and-mortar behind.

Tell us a little about VAJ. I launched VAJ – a gallery-style jewellery store dedicated to offering handmade pieces by South African artist-jewellers – in October 2005. Each piece is a one-off, specially commissioned for themed collections or designed as a bespoke piece for a customer.

The 15 years that VAJ was situated in The Firs in a tiny landmark shop have been wonderful, offering unique jewellery to a receptive and discerning market. All pieces have been created using beautiful stones and precious metals and working one-on-one with top South African artist-jewellers, the true heroes and heroines of VAJ. VAJ has showcased the work of over 50 independent jewellers.

The success of the business has come from a business model which relies on collaboration, communication, commitment and shared

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BUSINESS MANAGEMENT | SAJN values. More than 10 000 pieces have been designed and handmade and are now in the collections of lovers of fine jewellery all over the world.

VAJ will continue along the same lines and will be launching special collections from time to time. And I will, of course, be meeting up with customers to design and make bespoke jewellery just for them.

What made you decide to move to an online-only format? Was it a difficult decision to make?

Yes, very difficult. However, I believe there couldn’t be a better time to relocate to having an online business.

COVID-19, following straight on top of the poor economic situation in SA, has had a devastating effect on shopping centres. The stay-at-home culture, a reality of today, has changed the way we do things – and everyone’s now comfortable with shopping online. The challenge is getting the message out there. Our website has long been an important tool for us and has been bringing us new customers for many years.

We’re hard at work with new ideas, hoping to make it even more effective.

Have you updated your website to accommodate the shift to online-only sales?

Fortunately, we have extremely dedicated and talented professionals on our team. Thanks to our web authority, Patrick Bands, we have a world-class website. We’ve focused on generating good content, resulting in outstanding results in terms of SEO and online performance in general. Our favourite story about our web presence was when we asked a new client how she found us and she said: “I Googled ‘the best jewellery store in Johannesburg’ and Veronica Anderson Jewellery came up.”

Our website also has excellent visuals, which are the work of professional photographer Judd van Rensburg. He’s been part of the team from the start.

His extraordinary talent for styling and awe-inspiring photographic excellence give our website a vibrancy which is essential for jewellery.

What are the most challenging aspects of moving fully online?

I’ve often made the comment that I’m a shopgirl at heart! Having a little jewellery box of a shop to work in has been very comfortable for me and my colleague, Elize Haasbroek. This is a big step into a new world and I believe it has to be treated as an adventure.

I’ll continue to give the personal service for which we’ve become known, with attention to detail and deadlines.

Now that you don’t have a physical location, where do you intend keeping all your stock?

As all of our jewellery is commissioned, either for collections or for specific customers, we won’t need to carry the stock we did when we had a shop.

We’ll continue working with the artistjewellers with whom we have excellent relationships and source precious stones from our network of gem dealers, as required.

How do you feel about not being in direct contact with your customers?

Our new tagline is: “Online and in person.” The nature of our jewellery is best suited to direct contact. It isn’t just a question of the correct ring size. We have a very loyal customer base, both locally and internationally – and we know these customers well, so we can guide them with confidence in their choices. We’ve also learnt over the past few years what’s needed to make bespoke jewellery for new customers whom we haven’t met. Thank goodness we’re going online at a time when digital technology makes sharing information much easier.

Do you think online is the future of retail?

For years, many of the great retailers worldwide have been operating as both bricks-and-mortar and online stores. I have no doubt that retail stores are very much part of the future. Shopping centres will need to change. It seems that the centres which have had the fewest casualties over the past year are the ones where the stores face directly onto parking, enabling a quick in-and-out to one’s chosen store. However, this is obviously not suitable for every type of shop. There’ll be new ways of doing things, with a concept of a storewithin-a-store likely to be a trend.

Would you consider opening a physical store again in the future?

The answer to that requires a crystal ball! The journey to an online world is unlikely to be simple, easy or painless – and the temptation to have a space where we can show off our items is unlikely to ever leave me!

VA Jewellery photography: Judd van Rensburg | VA Jewellery website: Patrick Bands

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

33

MARKETS | SAJN

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

RETAILERS

50%

0%

BETTER

BETTER

50% SAME

50%

DIAMOND DEALERS

100%

0%

BETTER

BETTER

0%

0%

SAME

SAME

SAME

0%

100%

50%

WORSE

FEBRUARY 2021 VS FEBRUARY 2020

WORSE

0%

WORSE

WORSE

Best-selling diamond size Foot traffic

General sales compared with last year this time

0,5ct

Watch sales

General sales compared with last year this time

Breakdown of retail sales

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

15%

54%

31%

Participate in SAJN’s Business Barometer

MANUFACTURERS

33,3%

0%

BETTER

BETTER

0%

33.3%

SAME

66,6%

BETTER

0%

SAME

SAME

66,6%

66,6%

WORSE

WORSE

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

33,3%

WORSE

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

In an effort to accumulate statistics for the jewellery trade in South Africa, SAJN has been conducting a monthly survey among retailers, manufacturers, wholesalers and diamond traders for the past two years. The aim of the survey is to have some feeling as to what is happening at the retail front, as there is no other statistical information available. The survey does not require exact figures, but rather percentages and all information supplied is treated as strictly confidential.

Participants receive no more than four questions to complete and e-mail back to us, which we combine and publish monthly.

In order for the information to be as accurate as possible, we ask that participants commit to a 12-month period.

Should you wish to participate, kindly send your name, company name and industry sector to: adri@isikhova.co.za.

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SAJN | ADVERTORIAL

Gold Reef City Mint celebrates 35 years Gold Reef City (GRC) Mint is celebrating its 35th anniversary this month. The development that it has experienced over the years has been both rapid and exciting.

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS AS POST OFFICE Coins & Stamps in 1976, the company moved to Gold Reef City Coins & Stamps and shortly afterwards, took over the Gold Reef City Mint from the SA Mint Company. Initially, it operated purely as retail coin dealers, but soon expanded into the manufacture of coins, medallions and related items. “The Mint” now operates as an independent private concern, but is still fortunate enough to enjoy the support and cooperation of the national mint. In August 2009 the entire manufacturing department, called GRC Mint Manufacturing, moved to the Rand Refinery complex in Germiston. “It’s a far safer environment in which to work with precious metals,” explains Glenn Schoeman, CEO of the GRC Mint.

The Mint is one of the founding members of the SA Association of Numismatic Dealers, with Schoeman serving as its Chairperson. It is also an approved distributor of the SA Mint, with

whom it works closely in the development, marketing and launching of South African legal tender coins.

Its services and products extend across general numismatics, silver and gold bullion bars and medallions, medals and trophies.

The Mint is one of the largest wholesale and retail suppliers of Krugerrands in the country, while the manufacturing department has manufactured legal tender coins and medallions for SA, Swaziland, Namibia, Zambia, Mozambique and Suriname.

“GRC Mint is a pioneer in the manufacture of minted precious metal bars in SA,” says Schoeman. “These bars were only available for export to the foreign market, but the Precious Metals Act – which was promulgated in Parliament in July 2007 – now allows local residents to own them. We’ve developed a detailed infrastructure for bar production and use a sophisticated, tamper-proof packaging system, which is specified by the Precious Metals Regulator.”

In 2002, GRC Mint acquired the Coin Watch franchise for the African continent and established Coin Watch SA. This is primarily a wholesale and retail operation, marketing a quality range of uniquely designed African timepieces. Watches are custom-made to suit individual, corporate or tourists’ requirements.

The Mint also has various departments which produce items that are very well suited to the tourism industry. “The expertise and experience that our manufacturing departments have gained over the past 35 years allow us to manufacture almost anything,” says Schoeman. “We manufacture numerous items using precious and base metals. We cast in bronze, white casting metal, silver, gold and castings resins, and produce figurines, keyrings, lapel badges, plaques, clocks, fridge magnets, glassware and a range of other items which are too vast to itemise.

To expand and embroider its range of products to the retail and corporate gifting markets,

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Over the past 35 years, GRC Mint has developed its ability to operate totally independently. in 2010 GRC Mint incorporated the Hanggi Glass Design Studio into its group. “We were fortunate to acquire the services of Anne Hanggi, as well as a number of the design studio’s former staff members,” says Schoeman. “In that way, we gained a wealth of knowledge and expertise pertinent to the glass, sandblasting and decorative glassware industry.”

The Mint’s fully equipped cabinet-making and woodworking facility also enables it to produce high-quality frames, hardwood timber packaging and unique and custom-built trophies and corporate gifts.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

SOLITAIRE THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY AND LIVING

N°110

www.solitairemagazine.com

ASIA PACIFIC EDITION

Let’s Talk About Love SWITZERLAND TOURISM SPECIAL

Sol COVER_Issue 110.indd 2

03/02/2021 11:53

Solitaire Magazine

@solitairemagazine

SAJN | ILLICIT GOLD NETWORKS

SA has surfaced as a key transit point for bullion smugglers wanting to channel the precious metal to and from one of the world’s most prolific players in the gold industry – Dubai, writes Caryn Dolley for the Daily Maverick

All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks PIECING TOGETHER A NUMBER OF ARRESTS that have led to local police and SA Revenue Service (SARS) investigations, conducted over several years, a picture emerges of just how much of a cog this country has become in illicit gold networks. Indeed, over five years, five sets of arrests have been carried out at airports in SA and have involved travellers, flying either to or from Dubai, intercepted with gold bars. A fresh investigation sparked at the start of this year may also reveal whether a smuggling syndicate – possibly operating from Madagascar – has been using the country as a conduit. This all means that in addition to SA facing problems relating to illegal gold mining within its borders, it must deal with international smugglers operating in and passing through it.

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Marcena Hunter, a Senior Analyst at the Global Initiative Against Transnational Organised Crime, says that in terms of illicit gold networks: “SA is a major cog for the southern Africa region. Illegal mining in the country is rife and most of Zimbabwe’s gold is still thought to go through this country. It’s hard to estimate the scale, but our past estimates have put the figures at hundreds of millions of US dollars.”

A 2019 report that Hunter authored, entitled Pulling at Golden Webs: Combating Criminal Consortia in the African Artisanal and Small-Scale Gold Mining and Trade Sector, said feedback from regions in Africa suggested that most of the gold leaving the continent ended up in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

“The South African local scrap metal-to-refinery route leading to Dubai is undoubtedly

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

ILLICIT GOLD NETWORKS | SAJN

the preferred route for most syndicates,” the report stated.

Charmane Russell, spokesperson for the Minerals Council SA, says the illegal gold sector within the country alone has had a major knock-on effect.

“The impact is huge and not necessarily measurable,” she says, adding that issues ranging from the safety of residents in mining towns to financial matters have cropped up. A Minerals Council SA position paper on artisanal and small-scale mining expanded on this. It stated: “Often those involved in illegal mining activities in SA do not have access to markets, therefore all illicitly produced precious metals and stones are fed into the illicit market. It is in this space that an alternative and illicit economy is driven [whereby] the government also loses out on royalties, income tax and value-added tax, among other [things].”

Illegal underground miners are often undocumented migrants. On the flipside of this chain are national and international distributors who sometimes work via front companies.

In December, Interpol flagged illegal gold mining as a source of financing for terrorist groups in parts of Africa, which means the products of these activities – gold that often ends up in other parts of the world – could indirectly contribute to terrorism. Interpol said, in a statement, that a week-long operation had disrupted illicit firearm networks bolstering terrorists across West Africa and the Sahel – a region including areas from Senegal to Sudan. “Also, more than 40 000 sticks of dynamite and detonator cords were seized across several places, all intended for illegal gold mining, which constitutes a new source of financing, and even a recruiting ground, for armed terrorist groups in the Sahel,” said the statement. Interpol is now assisting with a separate gold investigation stemming from SA. During a crackdown at the beginning of the year that spurred the latest investigation, police announced that three suspects were arrested at OR Tambo International Airport after gold bars weighing 73,5 kg and worth about R61 million were found in their hand luggage. The suspects – Francis Deliot Regasy, Mahamodo Mahavanona and Zava Herimanana Anjaranantenaina – had been travelling from Madagascar and planned to get to Dubai via Ethiopia. They appeared in the Kempton Park Magistrate’s Court and are expected back in the dock there this month [April]. Hawks spokesperson Col Katlego Mogale said more arrests were possible.

Meanwhile, media in Madagascar reported that two other suspects, one of whom was arrested in that country, were allegedly involved

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

39

SAJN | ILLICIT GOLD NETWORKS in the matter. It was reported that the group was suspected of chartering a private plane from Madagascar to SA. This plane reportedly took off from Ivato in Madagascar on 31 December before landing in another city there, Toliara, from where it flew to Johannesburg.

Earlier this year, Daily Maverick reported that ministers in Madagascar had indicated that they wanted the gold bars seized in SA sent to its central bank, as well as the extradition of the three arrested suspects to their country.

Police spokesperson Col Athlenda Mathe says that aside from SA Police Service members and Hawks officers investigating this matter, Interpol and authorities in other countries are also looking into the alleged smuggling. This is, among other things, to determine where the gold is mined, its end destination and who else may have been involved in trying to move it across the world.

Based on SARS and police press statements, there have been several arrests (mainly at OR Tambo International Airport) of suspects travelling with gold bars over several years. Between August 2013 and February 2015, SARS was also investigating 26 companies and individuals “suspected of using fraudulent tax schemes to legitimise illegally mined or smuggled gold”.

In December 2015, the revenue service announced that a passenger at Durban’s King Shaka International Airport, who – according to another press release – had been travelling from Dubai, was found with 48 gold bars. “The gold was found in the pockets and a moneybag of a male passenger who was hiding it under a kurta worn over his clothing… Although nothing untoward was found in his luggage, the ‘bulging pockets’ under his kurta convinced an alert official to inspect further.”

A short while later, also in December 2015, SARS announced that two passengers were detained at OR Tambo International Airport after 39 gold bars, weighing roughly 37 kg, were found in one of the passenger’s hand luggage. “One of the passengers, a Mozambican national, was en route to Dubai, after arriving earlier from Mozambique,” a statement

said. “It is suspected that these passengers bypassed security, probably in collaboration with airline security.”

In May 2016, a Lebanese passenger was arrested at the airport with 20 gold bars. This passenger was planning to fly to Dubai. Then, at the end of February 2017, SARS said a passenger with five gold bars worth about R8 million was also arrested at OR Tambo International Airport. “The passenger was in transit from Maputo, Mozambique to Dubai,” a SARS statement said.

Piecing together a number of arrests that have led to local police and SA Revenue Service (SARS) investigations, conducted over several years, a picture emerges of just how much of a cog this country has become in illicit gold networks.

40

In July last year, in an article published by the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, described on its website as a “foreign policy think-tank”, gold smuggling to Dubai was red-flagged. “Dubai’s role as a financial centre and its lax regulation of the gold trade, favourable geographic position between Asia and Africa, and access to free trade zones have all contributed to Dubai’s growing reputation as a node of corruption… Gold travels to Dubai from all regions of Africa – basically from anywhere with an airport. Gold bound for the UAE travels overwhelmingly by air,” read the article. “Most of this gold is [carried by hand] by individual couriers, who usually carry 2-20 kg, with 10 kg being a typical parcel.”

Gold dubiously brought into Dubai could be sold to refiners and jewellers who could transform it into a product such as jewellery, which is accepted in the legitimate market. It could also be smuggled out to another country to evade tax and be used as currency.

In November last year the London Bullion Market Association, which describes itself as the “global authority for precious metals”, said it had made recommendations to ensure responsible supply chains were established for international bullion centres – “identified initially as the cornerstones of the recycled gold market”. Among the centres it identified were SA, the UAE, the UK, Russia, Japan and the USA. “Currently, not all [centres] operate to the same responsible sourcing standards,” the association said. “These inconsistencies in standards could have a significant impact

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

ILLICIT GOLD NETWORKS | SAJN on the international market, should they remain unaddressed.”

Reuters also reported that the association was threatening to stop bullion entering the mainstream market via countries including the UAE if these countries did not meet regulatory standards. It said Dubai was the focus of this potential action.

In a responding statement posted on LinkedIn, Ahmed Bin Sulayem, the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre’s CEO, said: “Where bullion is concerned, Dubai has… been able to leverage several advantages over its international competitors. In the same way that London was historically important to the evolution of bullion trading due to trade financing, Dubai’s location and industry verticals, which include financing and logistics, [have] positioned

Dubai to crack down on gold smugglers travelling to the emirate state via SA

By Caryn Dolley for Daily Maverick After the Daily Maverick reported that there was a clear link between SA and Dubai as part of a gold smuggling route, Ahmed Bin Sulayem, CEO of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) – described on its website as a government entity “to enhance commodity trade flows through Dubai” – posted a statement on LinkedIn in apparent reaction to, and referencing, the Daily Maverick 168 article.

He said gold smuggling into Dubai was not as easy as some suggested and referred to a federal law which stipulated: “Those involved in the dealing of precious metal or precious stone jewellery without proper hallmarking or certification from authorised institutions will be imprisoned for one year,” or fined roughly R100 million-R200 million (AED250 000-500 000).

“Over the past few years alone, Dubai police have been extremely effective in arresting and prosecuting gold smugglers attempting to either import, export or use the city as a place of transit for illicit means,” said Bin Sulayem. “Only a few months ago, Dubai police bust a smuggling operation that was using diplomatic baggage as a way of carrying out its activities from Dubai to India.”

He said that because most smugglers preferred to travel via air, “I revisited an idea I’d shared publicly at the second DMCC Africa Dubai Precious Metals Forum, held in Accra

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

it to be a far more convenient trading centre, positioned between Africa’s extensive resources and heavy consumer nations such as India,” he said.

Bin Sulayem labelled the London Bullion Market Association’s apparent targeting of it as an “authoritarian approach”. “Should [it] make good on its proposed strategy, it will be the first time a market or state authority has raised the

in 2016, where I openly called for all airlines to place a ban on the hand-carriage of gold.

The adoption of a ‘cargo-only’ policy would almost certainly be a giant leap towards solving this issue, not just between Africa and Dubai, but for the wider, global industry.”

Tackling illicit gold smuggling, Bin Sulayem said, would need the support of bodies including the International Air Transport Association (IATA). Katherine Kaczynska, the association’s spokesperson for Africa and the Middle East, told Daily Maverick it was up to governments to regulate this area.

“We do work with our members on illicit trade (ie wildlife), so we’ll certainly take up a discussion with the DMCC on how best we can work with authorities to efficiently implement existing government regulations on the carriage of gold,” she said. “However, it’s not IATA’s place to develop a policy such as the cargo-only proposal.”

To further tighten its controls over gold, Dubai was working with the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA), which describes itself as the “global authority for precious metals”.

“The UAE recently joined 11 other gold trading hubs, as per the LBMA’s request in support of upholding higher industry standards,” said Bin Sulayem. This tallied with what the LBMA, in a statement, said it had done late last year, when it engaged 12 top international bullion centres “to improve and harmonise sourcing practices in line with industry best practices”. The outreach had resulted in favourable responses from all centres.

Bin Sulayem said the DMCC had started

possibility of cutting off the bullion industry in a major financial centre, a ploy akin to changing the rules of Monopoly on a discretionary basis in order to keep other players off the board.”

Illegal gold mining in SA, and smuggling linked to the country, saddle it with yet another multi-faceted problem involving international organised crime. Recently DM168 published an article on how a string of assassinations in SA, which have played out over several years, pointed to the country being tightly caught up in global drug networks.

Its positioning in international gold smuggling further bolsters it on the global organised crime map.

– Reprinted with permission from Daily Maverick (DM168)

talks relating to workshops to address challenges posed by gold smugglers. “It would be cheap for me to point fingers at the various flaws within SA’s hard-working border services or law enforcement agencies for not being more effective, so instead I propose that all jurisdictions which are serious about solving this problem reach out to me and join this initiative as a proactive next step,” he said.

National police spokesperson Vish Naidoo previously said that officers were responsible for trying to control the illegal movement of goods and people across all SA’s ports of entry – land, sea and air.

He said police also worked with information provided by liaison officers from Interpol’s member countries. The UAE, under which Dubai falls, is listed as a member country of Interpol. – Daily Maverick

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SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

The darker side of gemstones

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

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JEWELLERY IS NOT ALWAYS BRIGHT: THERE are occasions when a more subdued hue is desirable, especially if one wants to stand out from the crowd. At such times, black gemstones offer a surprisingly wide range, from inexpensive jet to rare black pearls and black diamonds.

Black has been a staple fashion colour for many years. Personally, I tend to agree with England’s Queen Elizabeth II that jewel colours make one more visible and are more flattering.

However, in small doses or for accessories, black is an ideal shade – and in jewellery, it can provide an effective contrast.

Jet is not a true gemstone, as it is not a mineral; it is of such an intense black that it gave

rise to the expression “as black as jet”. It is actually fossilised wood and was traditionally used in mourning jewellery, particularly during the reign of Queen Victoria. So distraught was the monarch after the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert that she instructed her entire court to wear mourning attire for the next three years, with only jet jewellery being permitted for the first 12 months of that period. She herself, however, wore mourning

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN clothes for the rest of her life (40 years).

Jet is a hard, coal-like variety of ignite with a velvety intensity. It is transformed into this fossilised material by chemical reaction. It is warm and smooth to the touch and although found in many countries worldwide, the finest quality has always come from the north-east coast of Yorkshire in England. It is known as Whitby jet, named for the town of Whitby, which was a favourite seaside holiday destination among early Victorians. Jet is found in seams, usually above sea level, and its light weight made it popular for large, eyecatching pieces of jewellery. It became coveted by numerous high-profile personalities, but its most important patron was the widowed Queen Victoria, who – apart from jet – also wore colourless diamonds and black pearls.

Another monarch who favoured black pearls was Mary Queen of Scots, who had six strands of them (known as the “Hanoverian pearls”) presented to her by her husband. They had previously belonged to Catherine di Medici and Mary is seen wearing a single strand of them in the famous portrait of her by an unknown artist, which also hangs in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Black cultured pearls are somewhat rare and emanate from the black-lipped oyster, Pinctada margaritifera. They are rarely as black as jet, but show iridescent colours which originate from the nacre layers that overlap and break up light falling on the surface. They are shades of green, purple, aubergine, blue, grey, silver and peacock, or a mixture of shades, rather like a peacock’s feathers.

Tahitian pearls are often referred to as black pearls. These are farmed in the warm waters of French Polynesia around Tahiti. It was a Frenchman responsible for the marine resources in the area who undertook in-depth research of pearl cultivation in the mid-1960s and is considered the father of black pearl farming in the area’s warm lagoons. The darker variety of

pearls is the most desirable and, according to legend, symbolises love.

Onyx is a rock, a marble-like material used in modern jewellery which has been used since the time of the Second Dynasty in Egypt. It is a form of chalcedony, a banded material used to make bowls and other pottery items. It was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans.

Although it does come in other colours, its best known variety is the black version used in jewellery, which is usually cut as a cabochon or into beads. However, it also has a long history of use for hardstone carvings and sculptures

in the Art Deco period and is used in slabs as plinths – in fact, that was exactly what Cartier used as a platform for his Mystery Clocks of the mid-1920s.

Effective when used in combination with diamonds for rings, earrings and brooches, onyx is found in various regions around the world. It is particularly suitable for creating cameo-engraved gems, where the bands make the image contrast with the background.

Black diamonds recently enjoyed a surge

Mary Queen of Scots had six strands of black pearls (known as the ‘Hanoverian pearls’) presented to her by her husband.

They had previously belonged to Catherine di Medici and she is seen wearing a single strand of them in the portrait of her which hangs in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2021

in popularity and are reportedly among the most popular coloured diamonds for nonconventional engagement rings. There are several types of these, some natural and others treated. The latter are known as carbonados and the treatments usually include radiation and heat.

Natural black diamonds are an impure form of crystalline diamond, consisting of diamond, graphite and amorphous carbon.

Natural coloured diamonds get their colour from the impurities attached to them during their formation process and are similar to white stones, which have an extremely high amount of inclusions. Black diamonds contain so many clusters of graphite that they appear to be dark.

Although black diamonds have an inability to disperse light the way white diamonds do, they have a beautiful lustre and shimmering scintillation.

Most people think of a sapphire as being the deepest blue, but this gem actually comes in other colours, including black. The colour change is due to trace elements within the mineral. Black sapphire is extremely dark and appears to absorb most of the light that enters it.

It is cheaper than most other black gemstones, making it an affordable alternative to onyx and diamonds.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

43

SUPPORT ENGAGE ENCOURAGE

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For further information on membership benefits visit:

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E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN ARGENTUM RESOURCES Tel no: 011 608 0427 E-mail: info@silverchem.co.za Website: https://www.africanargentum.co.za/ AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com ANDRONIKIS MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 966 6647 E-mail: mstergiou1966@gmail.com ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com ASHLEY HEATHER JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 563 5086 E-mail: info@ashleyheather.co.za Website: www.ashleyheather.co.za ASIMI JEWELS INTERNATIONAL Tel no: 011 453 4775 E-mail: ellassa@iafrica.com ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8 E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/ BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/ BRADLEY MANUFACTURING T/A VARGA MANUFACTURING Tel no: 011 327 7926 E-mail: bradjew@mweb.co.za BRETTLANDS FINE JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com COLLEGE OF CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 464 3821 E-mail: calbrechts@cct.edu.za; eoosthuizen@cct.edu.za Website: http://www.cct.edu.za/ CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632 E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za CAROMBA MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 036 631 4565 E-mail: frank@caromba.co.za Website: http://www.caromba.co.za CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za CHANDLER’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693

DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DESIGN @ 50 Tel no: 010 442 9201 E-mail: edna@design50.co.za Website: http://www.gidz.co.za/projects/design50.html DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: https://www.designergold-el.co.za/ DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: http://www.christopherreid.co.za/ DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

DUDLEY’S JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 319 3226 E-mail: dudleysjewellers@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za

GC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 326 7919 E-mail: admin@thediamondring.co.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

E-DESIGN Tel no: 082 445 8295 E-mail: cornenaude@e-design.co.za Website: www.e-design.co.za EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com ERICA DU PLESSIS (ERICA STRAUSS) Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: eternity@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za HARRIS JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/ JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONNECTION Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za; info@thejeweller.co.za Website: www.thejeweller.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JEWELLERY DESIGN CONCEPTS Tel no: 083 709 7722 E-mail: sandm@polka.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURE & DESIGN Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JPPE LAPIDARY Tel no: 021 424 7764 E-mail: kylegilson@mweb.co.za JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/ K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

INFACET Tel no: 082 878 4949 E-mail: bridgette@infacet.co.za Website: www.infacet.co.za

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

JADE SOUTH AFRICA Tel no: 021 883 8974 E-mail: rhys@jade-sa.co.za Website: www.jade-sa.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com

JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LALI SILVER JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 646 8358 E-mail: jc_tilman@yahoo.com Website: www.lalisilver.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com

MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 645 9260 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

LEGA DORO CC Tel no: 011 450 3233 E-mail: legadoro@global.co.za; diamondafric@telkomsa.net Website: www.legadoro.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LEUVEN METALS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 426 4140 E-mail: kvessen@oroafrica.com; andrev@oroafrica.com Website: www.leuvenmetals.co.za

METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com MADE OF METTLE Tel no: 079 386 1079 E-mail: tracey@madeofmettle.co.za Website: www.madeofmettle.co.za MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/ MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879 E-mail: mambudesign@mweb.co.za; mambuorders@mweb.co.za MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMONDS STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/ PIERO G MANUFACTURING T/A PICO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 483 3442 E-mail: pico1@global.co.za Website: www.picojewellery.com

MIZANE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 485 3784 E-mail: mizane@ananzi.co.za Website: www.mizanejewellery.co.za

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

POLART JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 422 3848 E-mail: info@polart.co.za; polart@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.polart.co.za/home.html

NIGHT SHINE CANDY Tel no: 082 455 8973 E-mail: aleks@nightshinecandy.com Website: www.nightshinecandy.com

POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NOMAD JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES Tel no: 082 770 9788 E-mail: idieh@mweb.co.za; info@nomadjewelleryandaccessories.com Website: https://nomadjewelleryandaccessories.com/ NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com

PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/ RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

SILVER MYST – JULIANA RED Tel no: 021 762 9794 E-mail: moyonela@gmail.com

TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

SINCE NOW JEWELS Tel no: 072 336 9518 E-mail: sincenowcz@gmail.com

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za/

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/

RONALD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 701 5154 E-mail: ronaldcbr262@gmail.com

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za

RASIFIWA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 422 1350 E-mail: rssa@rasifiwa.com; jacqui@rasifiwa.com Website: www.rasifiwa.com

ROUX DU PREEZ DESIGNS Tel no: 084 207 3876 E-mail: sales@preezdesigns.co.za Website: www.preezdesigs.co.za RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SUSAN ROOS JUWELE Tel no: 028 754 2949 E-mail: info@roosjuwele.co.za Website: www.roosjuwele.co.za TCHALIEU JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 453 0492 E-mail: siphokazi.tchalieu@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/ THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za TURNER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 424 2528 E-mail: sam@turnerjewellers.com Website: http://www.turnerjewellers.com/ UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VALLABHJEE’S JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 032 944 1657 E-mail: hemval1@yahoo.co.uk VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za VUKANI UBUNTU COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS Tel no: 012 342 1385/8099 E-mail: demos@vukani.org; info@vukani.org Website: www.vukani.org WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

WHITE DIAMOND JEWELLERS Tel no: 035 789 5550 E-mail: whitediamondjewellers@telkomsa.net Website: www.telkomsa.net

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142 E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za

SILPLAT (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 461 5344 E-mail: info@silplat.co.za Website: www.silplat.co.za

TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN CUISINE VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR CONTACT US VIA WHATSAPP TO BOOK (076 471 1489)

EXPLORE & EXPERIENCE A NEW CONCEPT IN 21ST CENTURY RETAIL JEWELLERY 20 ‘Jewellery Box’ stores all located in one dedicated space. All under the same premier shopping destination roof - The Marc, Sandton

Limited space available. To join this exciting venture, contact Sam Sabbagh Cell: 083 979 0515 Email: ssabbagh@mweb.co.za