SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • April 2022

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PRECIOUS METALS EDITION • The five most valuable metals in jewellery • A platinum story of provenance, travel and responsibility • Beyond precious metals

Image courtesy Anglo American Platinum

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• 2021 highlight s and hopes for next year • Indian jewellery ’s modern transform ation • SA Mint launches Big Five Series II • Fit for a queen

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May’s birthstone: emerald For all brand marketing and advertising contact Jenny Justus on 083 450 6052 / 011 883 4627 or jenny@isikhova.co.za

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SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

10. NEWS • Diamond Secretariat relocates to new office • De Beers Group extends partnership with WomEng to support women and girls in host countries • Vote for SAJN’s 2021 Cover of the Year and win • A successful IIJS Signature 2022 concludes • WFDB holds Presidents’ Meeting in Dubai • Petra extends life of Cullinan, Finsch Mines • JCSA Jewellery Pop-Up Show during Mother’s Day week • Les Milner joins EGL SA

Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

16. THE MOST VALUABLE METALS IN JEWELLERY The most valuable metals on earth are, in part, due to their natural scarcity.

The categorisations of a valuable or precious metal are also based on the attractive features and practical usage qualities inherent in it.

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

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18 18. BEYOND PRECIOUS METALS

14. A PLATINUM STORY OF PROVENANCE, TRAVEL AND RESPONSIBILITY For jewellers, it is essential to understand which kind of platinum alloy best suits clients’ needs. Along with its platinum partner Anglo American Platinum, Metal Concentrators (MetCon) is able to offer solutions that suit every requirement with precision.

Prices in the precious metal market have, at times, resembled a roller-coaster. As a result of the higher prices for precious metals typically used in fine jewellery, a few alternative metals have begun to take centre stage.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

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Those born in April are lucky enough to call this scintillating gem their birthstone, a symbol of clarity and strength.

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33. DIAMOND: THE APRIL BIRTHSTONE

36. NEW COVID-19 DATA: SOUTH AFRICA HAS ARRIVED AT THE RECOVERY STAGE OF THE PANDEMIC A recently published study set out to determine sero-positivity against SARSCoV-2 before the fourth wave of COVID-19.

Ozayr Patel asked Shabir Madhi to explain why the findings suggest that SA has reached a turning point in the pandemic.

PRECIOUS METALS EDITION • The five most valuable metals in jewellery • A platinum story of provenance, travel and responsibility • Beyond precious metals

On the cover Entitled Her Pain, this piece was created for PlatAfrica 2021 by Phumlani Mngoma from Pneuma Jewellers. It is available for

38. SA MINT LAUNCHES THE LION IN THE BIG 5 SERIES II COIN RANGE The SA Mint has launched the lion design in the second series of the Big 5 coin range to coincide with the advent of the 2022 World Money Fair in Berlin, Germany.

purchase at: https://plat.africa/products/ her-pain. This striking piece features 75,23 g of platinum. MetCon, together with Anglo American Platinum, are sponsors of this annual competition. MetCon is one of the most advanced refineries in South Africa, adding value locally to responsibly sourced precious metals, for supply to a local and global market. This includes a commitment to

30. HOW CAN SOUTH AFRICANS BENEFIT MORE FROM AN INDUSTRY WITH A GLOBAL REACH? In an exclusive interview with SAJN, Cecil Khosa, CEO of the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR), says job creation, trade integrity, promotion of equitable access, beneficiations and enterprise development are its main focus this year.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

40. A MOMENT IN TIME

ethically sourced platinum through MetCon’s

When design and technology come together, they shape the Bulgari x MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra.

and accredited by the Responsible Jewellery

42. LITTLE GEMS: A GEM OF A MUSEUM Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

Platinum Provenance, which is approved Council. Contact MetCon on: (021) 510-0770 / (012) 000-4440 or visit: www.metcon.co.za.

Image credit: Anglo American Platinum

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022.

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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ABOUT EJP

DEVELOPING GENERATIONAL JEWELLERS Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project is a small business incubation hub dedicated to developing and growing jewellery manufacturing businesses. The Centre is based at Rand Refinery estate in Germiston, the home of the jewellery village, a collaborative space for budding manufacturing businesses.

Business incubation is a unique and highly flexible combination of business development processes, where people are developed and nurtured in an empowering context by helping them to survive and grow through the difficult first 3 years of their businesses.

Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project offers emerging jewellers technical and soft business skills support, access to fully equipped workshops and assists with access to market opportunities. These entrepreneurs are provided with an opportunity to develop their own businesses in a secure and enabling environment.

EJP currently has 3 different programmes targeted at businesses at different developmental phases: • The Ximilani Enterprise Development Programme- a one year

Proudly sponsored and supported by

programme that is targeted at self-taught jewellers, crafters and passion for jewellery • Rand Refinery Silver Mentorship Programme – a one year programme targeted at graduates from learning institutions with a desire to start and grow their own business • SEDA Business Incubation Programme – a 3 year programme targeted at jewellery manufacturing businesses at start-up and growth phases.

To find out more information, kindly contact Didi Mapatle on info@ejewellery.org.za, call (011) 825 -5822 or send a whatsapp to 062 153 4848

EDITOR’S NOTE | SAJN

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Editor’s

THIS YEAR SAJN DECIDED TO DEVOTE EACH month to a specific and significant industry sector, with April being our Precious Metals issue. This issue’s main feature highlights the five most precious metals in the jewellery industry, in order of value. Topping the list is rhodium – part of the platinum group metals (PGMs) – of which SA is the largest producer globally by a substantial margin.

Ranking second on the list is palladium – also a PGM – of which SA is the second-largest producer globally. Gold is currently the thirdmost valuable metal used in jewellery, with SA ranking as its seventh-largest producer in 2021. The namesake of the platinum group metals is the fourth-most valuable metal used in jewellery, with SA being the world’s top producer of it.

SA holds the largest-known reserves of PGMs globally, at 63 million kilograms.

According to the US Geological Survey,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

production of PGMs in SA increased by 13% in 2021 compared with the previous year, owing to increased mining in the UG2 orebody of the Bushveld Complex.

That complex is the largest PGM resource in the world and represents approximately 75% and 40% of annual global production of platinum and palladium, respectively.

But where do the rest of the world’s PGMs come from? The list of the world’s top PGMmining countries is actually very short – apart from SA, most platinum group metals come from Russia.

While Russia’s invasion of Ukraine will undoubtedly have an impact on SA’s economic recovery and is likely to slow down growth in what was expected to be a post-pandemic recovery year, there could be a silver lining.

With sweeping sanctions on Russia following its invasion of Ukraine, it is expected that its ability to bring PGMs to the market will be seriously hampered – which could lead to

increased demand for South African PGMs at higher prices.

On the subject of our country’s bountiful precious metal resources, this issue also features an exclusive interview with Cecil Khosa, CEO of the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator, explaining how South Africans can benefit more from an industry with a global reach.

Prices in the precious metal market have, at times, resembled a roller-coaster and as a result a few alternative metals have begun to take centre stage. We examine some of these more closely. SAJN April also delves into the timeless charm and lore associated with diamonds, as those born in April are lucky enough to call this scintillating gem their birthstone.

Enjoy this issue and happy reading!

Adri Viviers

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SAJN | NEWS

A SUCCESSFUL IIJS SIGNATURE 2022 CONCLUDES

LES MILNER JOINS EGL SA Well-respected practitioner in the gemstone industry, Les Milner, has joined EGL SA as a consultant and will be based permanently at EGL SA’s Bedfordview office in Johannesburg.

“We’re thrilled that Les has joined our team,” says EGL SA MD Brenda Rosenthal. “He brings his well-rounded expertise with years of experience backed up by solid knowledge of triple X polishing, insurance valuation and advice on repairs.”

VOTE FOR SAJN’S 2021 COVER OF THE YEAR AND WIN Vote for SA Jewellery News’s 2021 Cover of the Year and win – two ways! Select your cover choice by e-mailing: sajewellerynews@isikhova. co.za with the letter featured above your selection. Remember to state “SAJN Cover of the Year” in the subject line.

The cover advertiser receiving the most votes will win a free advertisement in SAJN. Voters will also stand a chance to win. All votes will go into a draw to stand a chance of receiving an exciting prize.

Voting closes on 30 April 2022.

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Extensive range of watch batteries

• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

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• What jewellers will be talking about this year

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

• Diamond market set for full recovery by 2024

• Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery

• Pearl quality 101

• All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks

• De Beers announces 12 ambitious 2030 goals

• From humble beginnings to bespoke jewellery designer

• A gemstone from the stars

• CoNNect with customers and build your brand

• How to market across generations

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• Founding females: their entrepreneurial journey • Inside Africa’s first mine with an all-female workforce • Peridot: the evening emerald

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• A fine digital presentation from the luxury brands of Switzerland • Marking time with Capetonian watchmaker Stuart Swan • Timeless time-tellers

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• Talking coloured gemstones with Kaylan Khourie • Is your jewellery brand really responsible?

• The allure of alexandrite • From pastime to profit

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Responsibly sourced Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies.

Championing transparency and trust in the coloured gemstone industry.

gemfields.com

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SAJN’s 2021

‘Cover of the Year’

• 2021 highlights and hopes for next year • Indian jewellery’s modern transformation

• Versatile white metals

• SA Mint launches Big Five Series II

• Winners of Shining Light Awards unveiled

• Fit for a queen

HOW IT WORKS Select your cover choice by emailing sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za with the letter featured above your selection. Remember to state ‘SAJN Cover of the Year’ in the subject line.

WHAT THE ‘WIN’ IS! The cover advertiser receiving the most votes will win a free advertisement in SAJN!*

SA Jewellery News is thrilled to announce the launch of its annual ‘Cover of the Year’ competition.

And there are TWO ‘wins’ too!

THERE’S ANOTHER WIN! All votes will go into a draw to stand a chance of winning an exciting prize!

CLOSING DATE 30 APRIL 2022 *(T&Cs Apply)

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• PlatAfrica 2021: the winners of Metamorphosis • Molto bene [well done], Vicenzaoro!

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• Don’t play the waiting game!

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• Seven keys to retail success

• From trash to treasure • Digital presentations of new watches in a locked-down world

The 14th edition of IIJS Signature 2022, organised by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, NESCO, Mumbai, concluded successfully on 21 February. The show witnessed nearly 950 exhibitors who occupied 1 470 booths spread across four exhibition halls.

There were more than 17 242 visitors, including 571 international visitors and delegations from the USA, the UAE, Egypt, Nepal, Uzbekistan and Bangladesh.

“We put up IIJS Signature 2022 in a record time of just three weeks,” says GJEPC Chairperson Colin Shah. “The unequivocal success of IIJS Signature 2022 is a testament to the fundamental strength of the Indian market

its persistent efforts, the council was able to enlist the IIJS Signature 2022 trade fair under the Ministry of MSME’s Procurement and Marketing Support Scheme. This enabled 94 MSME members to participate in IIJS Signature. I thank the ministry of MSME and MSME-DI Office in Mumbai for the support extended to our MSME exporters which will help them in tapping new prospective buyers, thus developing their business and amplifying India’s exports.”

In the gold section, lightweight contemporary lines were popular, especially in the prêt-à-porter section. Many collections were conceived using laser and 3D technology to curb metal weight. Although demand for larger bridal gold lines was still strong, buyers wanted lighter pieces that were big in form and easier to wear. Modular sets, too, were sought to optimise the wearability quotient of jewellery for various occasions, rather than

and the economy at large. And it proves that IIJS Premiere 2021 wasn’t just an aberration.

The rise in diamond prices by almost 50% since last September had left the buyers sceptical about their buying decision. However, IIJS Signature turned out to be a testing ground for buyers, who wanted to compare rates between exhibitors on the show floor. Since the price rise was uniform, it offered assurance to buyers and propelled them to book orders.”

Commenting on the subsidy given to micro, small and medium enterprises (MSME) to participate at IIJS Signature, Vipul Shah, Vice-Chairperson of GJEPC, said: “Through

just weddings.

Fancy-shaped diamonds set in couture jewellery were preferred, while large-carat diamonds in fancy colours such as yellow and pink were trending.

In the bridal segment, jadau jewellery embellished with pastel colour gemstones such as morganites, rose quartz, Russian emeralds, opals, aquamarines and tourmalines were a common sight.

The silver section featured an assortment of jewellery for prêt-à-porter and bridalwear, as well as beautifully carved silver artefacts, including idols and temples.

WFDB HOLDS PRESIDENTS’ MEETING IN DUBAI The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) concluded a very successful Presidents’ Meeting at the DMCC in Dubai during which it adopted a resolution in support of social responsibility, transparency, compliance and full disclosure. This was also the first time that representatives of the Young Diamantaires were invited to join the Executive Committee meeting and working session.

The opening session on 24 February featured keynote speaker Angolan Minister of Mineral Resources, Petroleum & Gas HE Diamantino Pedro Azevedo. Other speakers included host DMCC Executive Chairperson Ahmed bin Sulayem, Alrosa Head of International Relations Peter Karakchiev, De Beers CFO Midstream Susanne Swaniker, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri and WDC President Edward Asscher.

Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) President Yoram Dvash called on the diamond industry to

adopt the principles of social responsibility and transparency to protect its own future.

Later, the WFDB adopted Guidelines on Responsible Business Practices, which included the following: responsible sourcing throughout the supply chain, respect for human rights, fair labour practices, protection of the environment, adherence to AML and anti-terrorist finance regulations, and full disclosure on laboratorygrown, treated diamonds or simulants. WFDB bourse members are called on to comply with these principles or face disciplinary action.

The Presidents’ Meeting was the culmination of a full week of events, including the Dubai Diamond Conference, which featured the top leadership of the world industry. It also included the official opening of the IDE office in the DMCC, a direct result of the agreement forged between the IDE and the DMCC after the signing of the Abraham Accords in 2020.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

ABOUT US KDJI was established in 2013 and registered as a non-profit company on the 16th April 2015.

We are located at the Kimberley Diamond Jewellery Centre in the Northern Cape (NC) Province of South Africa and funded by the Department of Small Business Development (DSBD) through the SEDA Technology Programme (stp) and supported further by the NC Department of Economic Development and Tourism (NCDEDaT), State Diamond Trader (SDT) and the Kimberley International Diamond and Jewellery Academy (KIDJA).

We have entrenched ourselves as the only incubator in the Precious Stones and Minerals Beneficiation and Jewellery Manufacturing Sector that provides knowledge exchange, shared infrastructure and technology support services to the unemployed, struggling or underemployed jewellers, diamond cutters and polishers at one enabling environment and location.

OUR MISSION To be the premium incubator in the diamond and precious metal beneficiation industry.

OUR VISION Providing an enabling environment that gives access to technology and business development. Assist entrepeneurs to be competitive and sustainable.

OUR PURPOSE To establish and provide a diamond cutting, polishing and jewellery hub of domestic and internatioanl quality and excellence that stimulates economic growth and sustainable SME development through incubatio.

OUR SERVICE OFFERINGS We service newly registered existing companies (Small Medium Enterprises – SME’s) with access to facilities, infrastructure, business and technology skills development, enterprise mentoring and coaching services and facilitation of linkages to markets dependent on Small Medium Enterprise phase.

OUR CONTACT INFORMATION 25 Villiers Street, Kimberley, South Africa, 8300 Tel: +27 (0)53 831 1867 Fax: +27 (0)86 572 4934 Email: info@kdji.org

SAJN | NEWS

PETRA EXTENDS LIFE OF CULLINAN, FINSCH MINES

DDCSA RELOCATES TO NEW OFFICE

Petra Diamonds will invest US$289 million to expand its two main mines in SA, each of which is expected to yield an additional 30% in revenue.

The project at the company’s Cullinan mine will cost approximately US$173 million and will extend the life of the mine until 2031, while its outlay of US$216 million to upgrade the Finsch site will see it through to 2030, it says. Both locations have additional resources that could potentially take them “well beyond” those dates, adds Petra. Meanwhile, the miner’s other SA asset, Koffiefontein, will deplete all available reserves by fiscal 2025.

Revenue for the six months ending 31 December jumped 49% to US$264,7 million as strong demand bolstered prices. A 16% increase in prices on a like-for-like basis outweighed a 7% drop in sales volume to 1,6 million carats, the company explains.

Petra also profited from the sale of “exceptional stones”, including special-size rough over 10,8ct and coloured diamonds, which accounted for US$77,9 million in revenue, compared with US$40,4 million

The office of the Diamond Secretariat (Diamond Dealers Club of SA, Rough Diamond Dealers of SA and the SA Diamond Manufacturers’ Association) has relocated to the second floor in 8 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank.

All telephone numbers, postbox numbers and e-mail addresses will remain the same.

during the same period the year before. “[The company] has delivered strong results, as well as reducing net debt significantly,” says Petra CEO Richard Duffy. “We’ve benefited from the recovery in rough diamond prices, record proceeds from the sale of exceptional stones and the improvements we’ve made in our operations. Our strengthened operating platform and balance sheet, coupled with the robust rough diamond market, position us well for the second half of the year.”

However, profit slid 26% to US$49,1 million during the period, stemming from the loss of US$63,4 million in currency exchange rates, notes Petra.

Production increased 2% for the six months as the Williamson mine in Tanzania came back online in September after an extended period on care and maintenance, and the company made operational improvements at the Finsch and Cullinan mines in SA. The miner managed to reduce its debt to US$152,3 million, versus US$228,2 million as at 30 June, it added. – Rapaport

MAURICE LACROIX LAUNCHES ELIROS SUNSHINE The Maurice Lacroix Eliros has always been linked with the notion of style. Over the years, it has been dressed in an array of colours, sometimes encompassing rich textures to augment appeal. Now the Swiss watch brand has unveiled a new special-edition Eliros that unites a pyramidal motif with sumptuous sunny shades.

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With the advent of the Eliros Sunshine, Maurice Lacroix has shunned conservative tones in favour of warm golden hues and rich textures. The surface of the dial and the accompanying strap are endowed with a pyramidal texture. While the sapphire crystal, positioned front of house, protects fingers from probing the dial surface, the strap invites the wearer to caress its tactile form.

The dial and strap are coloured using an immersion technique, ensuring both components perfectly match. The packaging for the watch can also be used as a handy bag. The M logo features on the dial, strap and bag, affirming this watch is a Maurice Lacroix.

Measuring 40 mm in diameter, the generous scale of the dial augments readability while delivering unisex appeal. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, along with a slender centre seconds hand, convey the essentials of time. Yellow golden shades, often associated with opulence, are widely employed throughout. There is no need to wind the watch each day – the quartz movement takes care of this.

This latest expression of Eliros ownership is simple to read, precise and delivers high perceived value.

JCSA JEWELLERY POP-UP SHOW DURING MOTHER’S DAY WEEK For the first time ever, the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is offering its members the opportunity to sell jewellery directly to the consumer during Mother’s Day week in May. Members can exhibit at the JCSA Jewellery Pop-Up Show in the Eastgate Shopping Centre from only R1 999 (member rate per day) for five days. Only 18 spaces are available and stands will be allocated on a first-come, firstserved basis.

“This is a fantastic marketing opportunity for jewellery retailers, manufacturing retailers, art and contemporary jewellers,” says Lorna Lloyd, the JCSA’s CEO. “The Eastgate Shopping Centre averages 1,2 million monthly shoppers and is one of Africa’s most prestigious shopping hubs. It’s also home to more than 300 local and international retailers.”

To book a space or for more information, members can contact Lloyd on tel: 082-456-5558, e-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za or Elsa da Silva on tel: 082-214-0028, e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

DE BEERS GROUP EXTENDS PARTNERSHIP WITH WOMENG TO SUPPORT WOMEN AND GIRLS IN HOST COUNTRIES The De Beers Group has announced that it has extended its partnership with WomEng for a further three years, expanding the reach to cover all four of the countries where De Beers discovers diamonds and placing a greater focus on supporting women and girls to pursue careers in sustainability-related fields.

The partnership will play an important role as De Beers strives to achieve its goal of engaging with 10 000 girls and women in science, technology, engineering and mathematics by 2030 as part of its wider Building Forever sustainability goals.

WomEng is a global, multi-award-winning social enterprise which helps engage with and develop girls and women for the engineering and technology industries. The original threeyear partnership focused on developing leadership, innovation, well-being and employability skills for women and girls in SA, Botswana and Namibia. Despite challenges presented

by Covid-19, more than 2 200 students were reached by the end of 2021 through a GirlEng programme for schoolgirls and a fellowship programme for women studying engineering and technology degrees at university.

The three-year extension will see programmes expanded beyond southern Africa to reach students in Canada and the UK, as well as beyond university courses to include vocational and skilled trades. There will also be a greater emphasis on futurefocused sustainable development topics, such as renewable energies and climate solutions.

In addition, De Beers will roll out the WomEng’s Emerging Leader Programme within its own business to help support, retain and promote women in technical roles as it works towards achieving gender parity across its global workforce as part of its UN Women HeForShe Alliance commitment.

The group will also work with WomEng to support women-founded engineering and technology businesses in the company’s host countries which are focused on addressing critical sustainability challenges.

“Women remain significantly under-represented in engineering and technology fields globally,” says Katie Fergusson, Senior Vice-President for Sustainable Impact at the De Beers Group. “We’re delighted to be building on the success we’ve already achieved with WomEng, which has been an exceptional partner to work with as we seek C to deliver our mutual goals. By extending M our partnership, we’ll provide more talented Y women and girls with access to opportuniCM ties, mentorship and the confidence to pursue rewarding careers. We have an ambitious MY commitment to achieve gender parity across CY our global workforce by 2030 and key to CMY achieving this will be fostering greater diverK sity within the talent pipeline. With the programmes offered being expanded to include an emphasis on sustainability-related fields, we’re working to build a more equitable and sustainable future in alignment with our ambitious Building Forever goals.”

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY VOICES CONDUCTS TWO HYBRID SEMINARS IN VICENZA For the third time since CIBJO’s webinar programme was launched in April 2020, Jewellery Industry Voices conducted two live seminars/webinars from the VicenzaOro show in Vicenza, Italy on 18 March. The seminars took place before an in-person audience on the Main Stage in Hall 7 at the Fiera di Vicenza exposition centre and was live-streamed simultaneously to a global audience via the Internet.

The first seminar was entitled Emphasising Jewellery’s Positive Impact on Society as an Integral Part of its Value Proposition. It considered the cultural shifts that have accelerated among consumers as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, which have required jewellery

brands to place added emphasis on the social value of their products and the jewellery, precious metals and gemstone industries.

The second seminar was entitled Innovation and Technology in Jewellery Manufacturing: Supporting Creativity and Driving Sustainable Impact. The seminar was sponsored by Platinum Guild International.

The second seminar examined how new techniques in jewellery manufacturing, such as 3D printing, laser welding and innovation in alloying precious metals, are enabling manufacturers to create a wider range and type of jewellery items than was possible before, attracting a more inclusive and diverse range of jewellery designers.

Introducing JewelStart

Approach risk with purpose.

Dear Members We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, offers entry-level, bespoke cover for entrepreneurs and small businesses.

“JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions for jewellery businesses that are navigating changing market conditions and challenges that have been exacerbated by the pandemic. It is ideal for new entrants to the jewellery industry or businesses that have had to adapt their strategy to operate in less conventional ways. For example, those servicing customers from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellery and Precious Assets.

Bryte is excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council, for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the new start-up jewellery business.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

brytesa.com SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Policy terms and conditions apply.

SAJN | COVER STORY

Image courtesy Anglo American Platinum

Platinum’s history At the time of its initial discovery, deposits of platinum were ironically thought to have been worthless impurities amidst already-precious gold.

This was largely because the technology available at the time (the 1700s) could not facilitate platinum’s high melting point (1 708 ºC). However, with the discovery of oxygen some decades later, the Industrial Revolution, technological strides in the 1980s and our ability to melt and mould the metal at will, platinum’s immense practical and monetary value rose exponentially.

Something not everyone is aware of is that, including platinum, there are six different metals which fall into the collection of elements known as the platinum group metals (PGMs). In recent times, platinum has classically been combined with copper to provide a malleable metal that is easily worked and moulded.

Platinum-ruthenium Another one of the six platinum metals is ruthenium.

Replacing copper in a platinum alloy with ruthenium produces a harder and more resilient platinum alloy alternative. Platinum-ruthenium offers greater longevity, increased scratch-resistance and a reduction in the risk of shrinkage porosity, as well as an enhanced colour. Most platinum alloys can be used for casting. It is important to find the one that will best suit a jeweller’s needs.

Replacing copper in a platinum alloy with ruthenium produces a harder and more resilient platinum jewellery.

Vanquished Wave by Busisiwe Sinini (TPI – Millow Makings (Pty) Ltd)

A platinum story of provena travel and responsibility

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Image courtesy Anglo American Platinum

Image courtesy Anglo American Platinum

MetCon offers both platinum-copper and platinum ruthenium. Platinum-copper is the more traditional alloy used in SA, with a continuously increasing demand for platinumruthenium locally and abroad.

(Left): Hope Wave by Liezl Botha (Altin Jewellers).

(Above): Dragonfly Metamorphosis by Labi Kapo (Akapo Jewels (Pty) Ltd).

Provenance is paramount Platinum’s durability, hypo-allergenic properties, industrial application and resulting lofty status has made it an exceptionally valuable and sought-after metal throughout the world.

For wedding ring metals, it is the most popular choice in Europe.

Using premium, ethically-sourced platinum is of the utmost importance and MetCon is proud to be one of only a few refiners in the world to produce a Platinum Provenance cer-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

This year, in line with International Women’s Day, Forbes launched its first 30/50 Summit in Abu Dhabi. The event, which took place from 6-9 March, was attended by women from the famous “30 Under 30” and “50 Under 50” lists. PlatAfrica collaborated with African Fashion International (AFI) to showcase the best of South African jewellery design during the event. As part of the collaboration, seven fashion designers from all over the world showcased their designs. During the fashion show, models wearing clothes by Abu Dhabi fashion designer Sara Al Tamimi were draped in a selection of PlatAfrica pieces which had been submitted by students, apprentices and professional designers. The 30 piece collection included the 2021 winning South African designs by Patricia Ntombizodwa Tshabalala (apprentice category) and Chris and Janine Janse van Rensburg (professional category).

Images courtesy Anglo American Platinum

COVER STORY | SAJN

“We’re very proud of the work PlatAfrica has done to unearth and encourage jewellery design and manufacturing capability in SA and position platinum as a jewellery metal of choice,” says Natascha Viljoen, CEO of Anglo American Platinum. “Our collaboration with AFI at the Forbes 30/50 summit gave us an opportunity to put our platinum designs on the world stage and demonstrate the incredible depth of talent and experience in jewellery design.”

“MetCon is proud to have the privilege and responsibility of trading with platinum metals, acknowledging their power to propagate and grow wealth for our beautiful country and continent,” says the refinery. “We’ll continue seeking new ways to utilise its value for the benefit of society, never forgetting the powerful principle of ubuntu – ‘I am because we are’.”

(Above, from left): Apocalypse Revelation by Dumisani Mahlangu (The Platinum Incubator) and Wheel of Fortune by Godfrey Olebogeng Kobi (The Platinum Incubator).

Platinum in Abu Dhabi With the support of the global industry in such reputable organisations as the Responsible Jewellery Council, MetCon platinum can safely and responsibly travel the world in promotion of its use and value. Every year Anglo American Platinum, Platinum Guild International India and MetCon host the renowned PlatAfrica competition, giving up-and-coming South African jewellers a chance to show their crafting prowess by creating unique, storytelling platinum pieces. Those pieces are then offered in an online pop-up shop to be purchased.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

Image courtesy Africa Fashion International (AFI)

ance,

tificate, approved and accredited by the Responsible Jewellery Council. This means that the platinum we offer has in no way contributed to any disreputable activity or practice that infringes on human rights. With 95% of the world’s platinum being mined in SA, Platinum Provenance also helps ensure the wealth generated by it can be justly directed back into a continent in sore need of such benefits.

For jewellers, it is essential to understand which kind of platinum alloy best suits clients’ needs. Along with its platinum partner Anglo American Platinum, Metal Concentrators (MetCon) is able to offer solutions that suit every requirement with precision.

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SAJN | PRECIOUS METALS

The five most valuable metals in jewellery The word “precious” is derived from the Latin word “pretium”, meaning “price”, through the French word “précieux”. Precious metals, therefore, are those which are expensive and rare, and tend to be attractive, durable and malleable. Apart from the platinum group metals (PGMs) iridium, ruthenium and osmium, precious metals are best known for their use in jewellery.

THE PRICE AND VALUE OF PRECIOUS METALS usually depend on their rarity, properties, extraction process, application areas and demand.

If they are perennially scarce, all the other aspects commonly depend on new technologies, as well as political or economic situations.

Precious metals refer to gold, silver, platinum and the other PGMs, namely palladium, rhodium, platinum, iridium, ruthenium and osmium. They are noble metals, in that they resist attack by acids and other reagents and do not corrode easily (although silver does tarnish).

While the prices of precious metals are volatile, the five most precious metals in order of value in the jewellery industry are as follows:

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Rhodium Rhodium is currently the most expensive precious metal of the platinum group.

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The biggest demand for it comes from the automotive industry – about 88% of the global rhodium produced is used for making catalysts that reduce the release of harmful substances from vehicle exhausts. Rhodium is also commonly used in the lighting industry, mirror production and even in nuclear reactors.

It is also known as a scratch-resistant finish for jewellery. Jewellers seek it because it is bright, silvery-white in colour and very hard, which can help make the jewellery more scratch- and corrosion-resistant. It is also hypoallergenic, which means it is safe to wear by those with allergies to certain jewellery metal alloys. When breathed in, rhodium can be dangerous – particularly in jewellery-making.

During the rhodium-plating process, there are fumes that can be harmful. Due to this health risk, safety methods are used when plating jewellery to avoid inhalation.

Every year, roughly 30 tons of rhodium are mined. South Africa is the largest producer of this precious metal. About 55,5% of the total rhodium produced (both mineral source and recycling) comes from SA, contributing to 81% of the total mine supply. The Russian Federation is the next-largest producer, contributing 7%

of the world’s rhodium supply. Zimbabwe contributes about 3,5% of the world’s annual rhodium supply, while the USA and Canada contribute about 2,1%.

As an investment option, rhodium did not exist until 2009.

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Palladium Palladium is the second-most valuable of the precious metals and also exists within the platinum group.

Visually, it resembles platinum, although it is significantly lighter in weight.

Palladium is a hard metal, with a level of 5 on the Mohs hardness scale for pure palladium and a level of 5,75 when alloyed. For comparison, 18ct white gold measures 2,75-3 on the Mohs scale.

While palladium can and often does scratch, the metal which is affected by scratches is displaced, rather than lost. This means that palladium rings do not wear down over time – instead, they tend to develop a pleasant, attractive patina.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

PRECIOUS METALS | SAJN Like rhodium, palladium is used in catalytic converters for automotive exhaust filtration systems. It is also highly valued in aerospace, navigation, aviation, weaponry, dentistry, medicine, electronics and nuclear energy. In addition, it is used for “white gold” alloys.

Palladium is rarer than platinum and is used more widely in industrial applications – and, given the tightening regulations regarding vehicle emission standards, its value continues to rise. Like others in the platinum group, you won’t find palladium on the description of jewellery in most jewellery stores.

Russia is the world’s largest producer of palladium (accounting for 25-30% of the world’s palladium supply), followed by SA.

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Gold Gold is currently the third-most valuable metal used in jewellery. China is the largest producer of gold in the world and accounts for 11% of the global production. It is followed by Australia and Russia. Global production of gold reached approximately 3 000 metric tonnes in 2021. Production in China has increased from 320 metric tons in 2009 to an estimated 370 metric tons in 2021.

As an investment, gold has outperformed all equities since 2012. Mankind will forever treasure gold because of its historic and emotional value.

Today nearly 80% of mined gold is used to make fine jewellery.

Native gold is normally found as minute grains in rocks or riverbeds and is normally not pure, but contains a few percent of silver.

It is refined to pure gold (24ct), which is too soft to be used in jewellery because it bends easily and cannot hold gemstones securely.

The goldsmith thus adds silver and copper in specific proportions to pure gold to make alloys such as 18ct, 14ct and 9ct gold. The higher the copper content of the alloy, the redder the gold will be, as in pink or rose gold. 18ct yellow gold is stamped, ie hallmarked as 750, 14ct gold is stamped 538 and 9ct gold is stamped 375.

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Platinum Platinum traditionally traded at a higher price than gold because it was rarer and more prestigious. Limited and expensive-edition series of jewellery and watches, highly-privileged credit cards and the highest rewards are usually named “platinum”. Although gold today is

costlier and has more application areas, platinum retains its status as a symbol of wealth.

The namesake of the PGMs took a huge hit after the 2015 Volkswagen emission scandal as platinum’s primary use has been in catalytic converters for diesel vehicles – 45% of the metal sold in 2014 went to the automotive industry. As consumers and manufacturers moved away from diesel in the wake of “Dieselgate”, platinum lost out to palladium, which performs better in petrol vehicles.

Platinum has a smaller market than gold, but the number of interested investors continues to grow.

It is one of the most volatile precious metals. During periods of economic stability and growth, its price tends to be as much as twice the price of gold. However, during uncertain times, its value tends to decrease, falling below the price of gold.

SA is the largest producer of platinum in the world by a significant margin, followed by Russia and then Zimbabwe.

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Silver Silver has a very similar history to that of gold. It is also a safe and popular investment, since it retains its value, regardless of any crisis. However, the deposits of silver are relatively more extensive than those of gold, which makes it much less costly.

Silver is also more volatile than gold, having gained recognition in the industrial world over the past few years.

Several factors (particularly its lustre) make it one of the most popular jewellery metals.

Like gold, pure silver is soft and easily damaged. Therefore, jewellery-makers often alloy silver with harder metals to improve its durability. With silver alloys, they can make beautiful, strong pieces suitable for daily wear.

The most common silver alloy is sterling silver, which consists of 92,5% silver. One or more metals comprise the other 7,5%. Often, copper makes up a substantial portion of that 7,5% because it increases the alloy’s hardness.

Mexico is the world’s largest silver producer, followed by China and Peru.

Note: Recently, prices have been driven higher by concerns about supply amid mounting sanctions on Russia for invading Ukraine. Russia is the world’s largest producer of palladium, the world’s second-largest producer of rhodium and platinum and its third-largest producer of gold.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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SAJN | ALTERNATIVE METALS

Prices in the precious metal market have, at times, resembled a rollercoaster. As a result of the higher prices for precious metals typically used in fine jewellery, a few alternative metals have begun to take centre stage.

Beyond precious metals PRECIOUS METALS, AS THE NAME SUGGESTS, are made from valuable metals. Precious metals used for jewellery include gold, platinum, silver and palladium. An alternative metal is anything that does not fall under the precious metal category. There is a variety of alternative metals in today’s market, including stainless steel, titanium and tungsten.

In tough economic conditions, jewellerylovers turn to alternative metals and jewellers always rise to the challenge with pieces using materials outside conventional and expected forms.

Here are some of them: Brass Made of copper and zinc, brass is widely found in costume and vintage jewellery. When brass is polished, it bears a striking resemblance to yellow gold. It is ideal for casting (creating jewellery from moulds). Many costume pieces are created this way. It is also a very strong

so niobium jewellery components come in a huge array of colours, such as blue, red, pink and many others. Niobium is corrosionresistant, which makes it a practical choice for jewellery. It is also hypo-allergenic, so it will cause no skin irritations in people with metal allergies. Niobium is strong and is a component of alloys used in jet engines, oil rigs and other industrial applications. It is common in smaller jewellery pieces such as rings and earrings. material, which means that costume jewellery products made with it are durable. Additionally, brass is also extremely affordable.

Copper Known for the beautiful green patinas it develops over time and its warm reddish glow, copper is a popular choice for artisanal jewellery and also has a number of properties that make it a practical option. It is extremely easy to work with and was actually the first metal worked by jewellers in ancient civilisations. Copper is affordable, compared with gold and silver, but costlier than alloys such as brass and bronze.

Niobium Niobium is an element on the periodic table and is silver-coloured. It accepts anodisation,

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Stainless steel Stainless steel is an affordable choice for those who love silver-toned jewellery. Widely used for its sleek appearance, this metal lends itself to contemporary designs and is commonly found in men’s jewellery. It is an alloy of chromium, nickel, titanium, copper and other materials.

Stainless steel resists corrosion, which makes it ideal for jewellery that is worn daily or exposed to chemicals. It also maintains its sleek polish and is difficult to scratch.

Titanium Titanium is extremely lightweight and feels like an aluminium washer in terms of heft. Those who are unaccustomed to wearing jewellery often prefer this material. It is a very popular

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

ALTERNATIVE METALS | SAJN alternative for men’s jewellery and considerably cheaper than gold and platinum (though still costlier than silver).

Tungsten Tungsten (when alloyed with carbide) is also lightweight and is often marketed as being hard to scratch. It is also a popular alternative for men’s jewellery and many designers are using tungsten (and titanium) specifically for the male wedding band market.

These alternative metals have opened up the world of jewellery to many different styles, preferences and price demographics, as designers explore their effect in their creations.

“Alternative materials” can be defined as nonprecious or semi-precious components such as rough gems, differentiated stones, wood, glass, mixed metals and even fabric. These enable unique compositions and shapes, enhancing the creativity of contemporary jewellery. And with the spotlight firmly on sustainability, consumers are taking a closer look at the production processes of the jewellery they buy.

The following are some alternative materials local artists have been using which have gained popularity among consumers:

Wood Wood brings a natural aesthetic to any jewellery piece. There are many types of wood, each with its own characteristics.

The colour, shape and grain of a piece of wood make it unique and visually interesting, while exuding natural warmth.

And in terms of benefits, wood is a sturdy material that lasts far longer than many other jewellery materials that can crack or fade over time.

Glass Contrary to popular belief, most glass jewellery is neither delicate nor fragile.

It can be bold, colourful and make a powerful fashion statement. There are several basic types of glass jewellery on the market today, most of them made by applying heat to glass rods or pieces so that they fuse together. From there, artists can fashion glass beads, pendants, earrings, bangles and rings. Many glass jewellerymakers mount their glass pieces with silver or gold bezels, which then become the centrepiece “gems” of the designs.

Leather Leather is made by tanning the hides of animals, particularly cattle, ostriches and buck, to create a durable and long-lasting

material. There are many different types of leather available today, including full-grain leather, corrected-grain leather, suede, patent leather and buckskin. Leather can be stamped, carved or painted to create a number of unique looks. Its versatility has made it a very popular material for jewellery.

Ceramic A popular trend is necklaces, brooches and rings made from kiln-fired clay. Essentially, these are mini-sculptures worn on the fingers, around the neck or on a favourite shirt. Some makers colour their jewellery items with glaze, while others leave their designs bone-white.

Resin Resin, which is traditionally used in varnishes, adhesives and even food glazing, has become a popular craft medium in various sectors, including jewellerymaking. In some cases, the designs are created by simply mixing together different colours of resin or adding dye to the resin. Colours can be suspended inside translucent resin or it can be left as opaque. However, the most common style of resin jewellery is suspending decorative elements or objects inside clear resin.

Almost any small object – dried flowers, plastic pieces, metals or glitter – can be encased in resin.

Semi-precious stones Diamonds have long been the obvious choice for fine jewellery – particularly engagement rings – but other types of gemstones are also popular. Whether for budgetary reasons or simply out of personal preference, these alternative gemstones offer a pop of colour which is highly attractive. Jewellery-makers use a variety of semi-precious gemstones in their items, including rose quartz, garnet, amethyst, onyx, turquoise, citrine, aquamarine, jade, opal and moonstone.

In tough economic conditions, jewellery-lovers turn to alternative metals when purchasing jewellery and jewellers always rise to the challenge with pieces using materials outside conventional and expected forms.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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SAJN | DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts Precious metals in bulk form are known as bullion and are traded on commodity markets. The defining attribute of bullion is that it is valued by its mass and purity, rather than by face value as money.

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The easiest way to test stainless steel jewellery is by using a magnet. Because steel is magnetic, your jewellery should attach to the magnet. If this does not happen, you do not have stainless steel.

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Brass does not rust and is resistant to corrosion. However, it does develop a patina, or greenish layer, over time. This is due to the copper content in the alloy.

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In 1979, the Guinness Book of World Records gave Paul McCartney, a wellknown musician who was in the Beatles, a rhodium-plated record for being the all-time best-selling songwriter and recording artist.

Considerable research has been conducted globally to establish the antimicrobial spectrum of copper.

Copper has been demonstrated not only to inhibit growth, but also to effectively eradicate micro-organisms

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In folklore, silver was commonly thought to have mystic powers: for example, a bullet cast from silver is often supposed to be the only weapon that is effective against a werewolf, witch or other monsters.

The original name for titanium was manaccanite. The metal was discovered in 1791 by William Gregor, a pastor in a village in South Cornwall in the UK called Manaccan.

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William Hyde Wollaston was an English chemist and physicist who is famous for discovering the chemical elements palladium and rhodium. He also developed a way to process platinum ore into malleable ingots,

Image courtesy Wellcome Images

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Mirrors that need superior reflectivity for visible light are made with silver as the reflecting material in a process called silvering. Common mirrors, however, are backed with aluminium.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 23 28

PEARLS THEIR CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION, VALUATION AND CARE FRESHWATER CULTURED PEARLS

Tahitian black pearls.

Oyster shell with cultured oval mabé pearls.

• South Sea pearls On the northern coast of Australia and around the Indonesian and Philippine islands a gold-lipped and silver-lipped variety of the Pinctada maxima oyster is used to cultivate large (1015 mm) saltwater pearls. South Sea pearls have grown thick nacre layers which impart a silky silvery to golden colour to them. Recently, golden-brown to chocolate colours appeared on the market. Such intense colours are probably the result of a secretive staining process which pearl farmers have perfected.

Since the 1970s China has been a major producer of cultured freshwater pearls. These pearls are cultivated by the inser tion of a piece of mantle tissue into different types of freshwater mussels. This resulted in the formation of irregular pearl shapes which consist mostly of nacre and range from 2-10mm in size. The earliest freshwater pearls looked like “Rice Krispies” and were often ar tificially coloured. Since the turn of the centur y, Chinese pearl farmers succeeded in producing large and nearly round pearls by re-implanting a smaller first growth pearl into another mussel. These pearls consist of more than 95% nacre and grow to 10-12mm within a shor t period. Freshwater cultured pearls are also available in a variety of colours and shapes such as discs, cubes and other forms, depending on the shape of the second growth implant.

• Tahitian pearls In the clean warm ocean waters of the Polynesian Islands, the black-lipped pearl oyster, Pinctada margaritifera, is used to cultivate large, up to 18 mm, black and grey natural-coloured pearls. They are bead-nucleated and have thick black nacre layers which display beautiful secondary surface colours ranging from pink, deep purple and steel blue to bronze and silver.

The black pearl of Tahiti is among the world’s most expensive cultured pearls and these are normally sold as individual pieces.

2. UNUSUAL VARIETIES Seed pearls are small off-round natural pearls (1-2 mm diameter) often found in Victorian jewellery. Horsehair was used to string them because of the minute size of their drill holes.

The term baroque describes any pearl with an irregular or asymmetrical shape.

a resin and glued to a base of mother-of-pearl. They are produced in round, drop, oval and heart shapes, mainly used as ear-studs or pendants, and are less expensive than a normal round cultured pearl of the same size and quality.

Keshi pearls are nearly pure nacre and formed naturally in many cultured pearl oysters, without the insertion of a bead or a piece of mantle tissue. They vary in size from a few millimetres when formed in Akoya oysters to nearly a centimetre in South Sea oysters.

A circled pearl displays one or more grooves or ridges that run right around it.

(From the top): Baroque, semi-baroque, semi-round and round shapes.

The term mabé refers to a dome-shaped, cultured pearl that grew on the shell of the oyster, from where it was cut, filled with

Black “hat” mabé pearl ear-studs.

Biwa pearls refers to cultured pearls that are grown in mussels in the freshwater lakes and rivers of Japan.

Monster pearls are large, irregular fresh- or saltwater pearls, either of a natural or cultured origin, often used as individual pieces in designer jewellery.

AN INTRODUCTION PEARLS TO GEMSTONES

for ornamental purposes from as far back as 3200 BC. The jeweller can buy the entire shell or flat rectangular “blanks” from which he can saw the shape he requires. Prices range from US$10 for “B” grade to US$100 for the highest-quality 10 x 2,5 mm blanks.

Circled pearl.

Freshwater “monster” pearls (above left), Keshi pearls (below left) and a pair of drop earrings of large South Sea pearls.

MOTHER-OF-PEARL The inner shell of fresh- and saltwater animals consists mainly of CaCO3 and often displays a pearly lustre and an iridescent effect. This shell is called mother-of-pearl and has been used

Abalone shell has a striking orient, especially that found in New Zealand, which is referred to as “paua shell” or “rainbow abalone”.

South African abalone also produce a colourful shell, which, when polished, is used to manufacture inexpensive jewellery.

Mother-of-pearl has many household uses, from buttons to inlays in furniture and musical instruments. An interesting use is for caviar spoons, as sterling silver or other metals (except gold) will impart a metallic taste to the caviar.

3. PEARL ENHANCEMENTS Most cultured pearls are either bleached and/or stained to assist colour matching. This can be identified by looking at the drill hole under magnification. Stain colourations can normally be seen in the nacre layer covering the bead. Some cultured pearls had their lustre improved and blemishes removed by a polishing process; others may even be facetted.

A selection of colour-enhanced (dyed) Chinese freshwater cultured pearls.

Colouration visible around and in the drill hole.

4. IDENTIFICATION OF NATURAL, CULTURED AND IMITATION PEARLS NATURAL VS CULTURED PEARLS One of the most difficult tasks of a jeweller is to distinguish between natural and cultured pearls.

Because the surface layer of a natural and a cultured pearl is the same, it is difficult to see the difference if the pearl is not drilled. If drilled, look down the drill hole with a loupe and the thickness of the nacre layer of a cultured pearl can normally be seen. No line separating a bead and the outer nacre layer can be seen The thickness of the nacre layer in a natural pearl. and a line separating it from the bead nucleus can be seen in the drill hole of cultured pearls.

Candling is another method. An intense light source is used which is completely shielded in a darkened room. A small 1 mm hole is made in the shield and the pearl slowly rotated in front of the light beam. If the striped nature of the mother-of-pearl bead inside the pearl can be seen, it is possibly a cultured pearl. Beware – the

modern Chinese cultured freshwater pearls will not show the internal stripy texture.

Specialised instruments, such as a pearl endoscope and an x-ray diffraction machine, are used by gem laboratories to positively identify natural pearls.

An x-radiographic method, similar to the one used by dentists to take pictures of teeth, can be used to take an x-ray picture of complete strands of pearls. The thickness of the nacre layer is very obvious, while imitation Candling of cultured pearls pearls appear almost black in reveals the “stripy” nature of the bead nucleus. these x-ray photographs.

2. PEARL IMITATIONS Pearls have been imitated for centuries. Most pearl imitations are made by first producing a spherical glass or mother-of-pearl bead. The bead is then coated with

ISSUE 28

a substance called “pearl essence” which is made by mixing guanine (extracted from fish scales) with glue and a colouring agent. After a few layers of “essence” have been applied, the bead is polished and dipped in a chemical which hardens and protects the surface from chipping and discolouring.

is sharp and well-defined. The presence of blemishes and the specific orient of cultured pearls are diagnostic.

IDENTIFYING IMITATION (FAKE) PEARLS

The surface of imitation pearls is normally smooth and without blemishes. Imitation pearls are not as hard as cultured pearls.

Pressing a needle on the surface of a fake pearl will leave a small hole, while a cultured pearl will show no needle damage.

A famous test is done by gently rubbing the pearl on your front teeth - if it feels gritty, it is a cultured pearl; if it feels like plastic on your teeth, it is an imitation. This is not conclusive, as some imitations are produced with a gritty surface.

On the other hand, the drill holes in pearl imitations show the ragged edges of the coating and often no separation between the glass nucleus and coating can be seen.

Sharp edge of drill hole in cultured pearl. Note the poor surface texture and nacre thickness (left).

Flaked drill hole of imitation pearl (right).

Through a jeweller’s loupe the drill hole of a cultured pearl shows the thin, often dark layer of conchiolin that separates the bead nucleus from the nacre. The edge of the drill hole

5. VALUATION OF PEARLS There are seven factors that are used to value pearls: 1.

Size (measured in millimetres). Larger pearls are more rare and thus more expensive.

2.

Shape. This can vary from perfectly round (the most expensive) to semi-round, semi-baroque to baroque.

3.

Lustre is a unique characteristic of pearls. It is the result of light being reflected from a multitude of nacre layers.

The thicker and more transparent the nacre layers, the better the lustre (reflection) and the higher the value.

Note the sharp reflections in a pearl with very good lustre (left) compared with the diffused reflections in a pearl with poor lustre (right).

4.

5.

Colour. The dominant colour (hue) of a pearl can vary from white to grey and black, from cream to brown and many other “fancy” colours. These basic colours are often enhanced Pearls with good “orient” and lustre. by pink, yellow or greenish overtones. The surface of certain pearls displays a shimmer of rainbow colours. This optical effect is called orient and, if present, enhances the value of the pearl.

Surface markings. Very few pearls are perfect, with no blemishes visible to the naked eye. Blemishes can

vary from pinpoint indentations or extrusions to noticeable characteristics that may cause the nacre layers to lift from the internal nucleus. The size and severity of blemishes will obviously affect the value.

6.

Nacre thickness. A thin nacre layer can peel or be damaged by perfume or hairspray, while a thicker layer normally results in a more durable pearl.

However, it is not only nacre thickness that determines value, but also the translucency of the nacre layer, which is a prerequisite for a good lustre.

7.

Matching. The better a string or a pair of pearls match, the higher their value.

In 1917, Cartier reportedly traded a million-dollar strand of natural pearls for a six-storeyed building in Manhattan which became its New York headquarters - proof of the historical value of pearls.

Today, an 18" strand of fine Akoya pearls (6-6,5 mm) can cost between US$650-850, while extra-fine qualities may fetch up to US$1 200 per strand. Good-quality, round (7-8 mm) Chinese freshwater pearls can cost between US$600-1 000 per string. However, semi-round and circled Chinese freshwater pearls can cost as little as a few hundred dollars per string.

Fine-quality, round (10-10,5 mm) Tahitian black pearls can cost up to US$150 each. Larger Tahitians can fetch more than US$600 per pearl. A 10,8-13,6 mm strand of exceptional golden South Sea pearls was sold on auction in 2004 for US$44 000.

PEARLS

6. THE WEAR AND CARE OF PEARLS LORE AND ROMANCE

CARE OF PEARLS

Ancient people believed that pearls were formed when an angel’s tears fell into an open oyster.

Keep pearls away from acids, strong cosmetics and hairspray and keep them in a separate box or chamois bag, away from other gems that may scratch them. Never soak pearls in water! It is important that the drill hole remains dry. To clean, wipe them with a rag moistened with a little water and soapy foam or a commercial pearl-cleaner. Depending on how often they are worn, restring them every 18 months.

It is the symbol of purity, innocence and chastity and of a happy marriage: thus the popularity of pearls on a wedding day. Pearls are said to increase health and virility. Pakistani men still drink a concoction of powdered pearls and cream: the fact that many, well into their 70s, still have all their hair, teeth and four wives may strengthen this belief!

DURABILITY The durability of a pearl is determined by: •

the thickness and quality of its nacre layer;

•

how well this nacre layer is attached to the bead nucleus; and

•

how well it is cared for.

Nacre thickness

The various pearl types described earlier have different nacre thicknesses, as illustrated herewith.

Sections through cultured pearls illustrating Sections through cultured pearls illustrating Sections through cultured pearls illustrating the difference in nacre thickness the difference in nacrethickness thickness the difference in nacre

STYLING Pearls are the accepted birthstone for June and are versatile fashion items that never date. They can be worn for business or informal occasions, yet they have the elegance to enhance an evening look.

Although the length of strings and the type of pearl are often dictated by the fashion of the day, the jeweller should be aware that certain face types and skin tones are complemented by the correct selection of pearl jewellery. For instance, chokers look good on long, slender necks, but a short, chubby neck needs a graduated string or several long strands.

Dark skins are complemented by gold or champagne colours, while pale skins need white-pinks or creamy pinks.

Reddish skin, blonde and brunette hair match well with rose to creamy-rose coloured pearls.

Sections through cultured pearls illustrating the difference in nacre thickness

CHAIN OR NECKLACE LENGTH COMPARISION

Chinese freshwater pearls, multiple growthlayers of Chinese freshwater pearls , multiple growth layersfreshwater of and nacre (left) and a rice, nearly pearl (right), Chinese pearls , (right) multiple growth layers of nacre(left) a rice pearl 100% nacre Chinese freshwater ,(right) multiple growth 100% layers of 100% nacre. nacre(left) anda nearly rice pearls pearl , nearly nacre nacre(left) anda rice pearl (right), nearly 100% nacre

Akoya cultured pearls , round and baroque, with Akoya cultured round and baroque, Akoya cultured pearls spearls, ,, round and baroque, withwith Akoya cultured pearl round and baroque, layered shell nucleus and nacre overgrowth . layered shellnucleus nucleus and overgrowth . with layered shell nucleus and nacre overgrowth. layered shell andnacre nacre overgrowth .

Use this sketch to get an idea of how low a particular chain or pearl string will hang.

Tahitian pearl (left) with thick, dark nacre covering a Tahitian pearl(left)with thick dark nacre covering a layered shell nucleus.

Mabé pearl (right) with a thin nacre Tahitian pearl(left) with thick nacre a layered shell nucleus.

Mabe’ pearldark (right) with covering a thin layer over a plastic infillthick on mother-of-pearl base.

Tahitian pearl(left) dark nacre covering layered shell nucleus.

Mabe’ pearl (right) withbase. a athin nacre layer over a with plastic infillaon a mother of pearl

layered shell nucleus.

Mabe’infill pearl withofa pearl thin base. nacre layer over a plastic on(right) a mother nacre layer over a plastic infill on a mother of pearl base.

Can you remove the frame around inserted the box, ? hope so

Can you remove the frame around inserted the box, ? hope so Can you remove the frame around inserted the box, ? hope so

ISSUE 28

ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS FOR JEWELLERS • Figurines • Clocks • Watches • Dinnerware • Gold coins and medallions Herewith a basic description of items - other than gems and jewellery - that a jeweller may wish to carry. These lines are normally more profitable for a jeweller serving a small town, where the need for gifts and watches is more frequent than that for fine jewellery. In larger cities, gift and watch shops abound and the normal jeweller may find it impossible to compete with the variety offered by such specialised shops.

1. FIGURINES Figurines of a limited edition may appreciate in value more than those of a mass-produced nature. A certificate of authenticity, stating the name of the artist, the total number of the edition and the number of the piece, should accompany the figure. If it is a fine and/or unique representation of the subject, well-proportioned, detailed and well-finished, its value should be more than the normal mass-produced items.

Swarovski glass figurines and Lladro porcelainware are among the most popular gifts jewellers normally carry.

Porcelain figurines.

Swarovski crystal figurine.

2. CLOCKS There are many different types of clocks, all of which should be functional as well as decorative.

•

Decorator clocks: These are used as ornaments in kitchens, family or living rooms and are usually battery-powered.

•

Desk and table clocks: Small, functional clocks; often in modern and innovative design and material; usually, battery-powered or of the electronic quartz type.

If it is a digital clock, the time will be displayed in figures.

•

Grandfather clocks: These clocks are mostly in wood, made by furniture craftsmen and use weight-driven

chime movements. They often have a moon phase dial and tubular chime options.

•

Mantle chime clocks: The modern ones are mostly made from solid hardwood or moulded plastic. Older versions were also made in black or white marble, with ornamental dials and triple-chime movements.

•

Wall chime clocks: These clocks are characterised by a polished brass pendulum and can be key-wound or weight-driven.They are often made from dark hardwood with cast metal trimmings.

ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS FOR JEWELLERS

•

Anniversary clocks: These clocks normally operate for one year without winding or a change in batteries.

Their mechanisms are in brass which is encased in transparent glass or plastic domes, or in a “carriage”style case with transparent panels.

If the jeweller wishes to stock modern watches, or deal in older types, he needs a thorough understanding of the subject. Without this he will not be able to offer the correct advice to his customer, nor will he be able to do proper valuations or trade-ins of antique pieces.

Long case clocks became known as grandfather clocks.

French carriage clock, 19th century.

A mechanical wind-up, spring-driven alarm clock.

Please note: This section only provides the basic terminology he needs to enter into this field.

3. WATCHES MECHANICAL VERSUS ELECTRONIC

ANALOG VERSUS DIGITAL

The traditional “wind-up” watches are called mechanical because the wearer has to wind a mechanical spring inside the casing by turning the crown on the side of the watch.

As this spring gradually unwinds, it turns tiny interlocking gears (wheels) which move the watch hands to indicate seconds, minutes and hours.

These terms refer to the way in which the dial displays the time. “Analog” means that the watch indicates time with traditional “hands”. Mechanical watches are all analog, while electronic watches can either be analog (where the hands are moved by the per-second impulses generated via the quartz crystal) or digital (where the time is indicated by digits, ie, numbers). All digital watches are electronic.

Automatic or self-winding watches employ a heavy mechanical fly wheel inside the casing which pivots as the wearer moves his arm, winding up a spring. These watches can also be wound by hand.

Electronic watches are powered by batteries and do not need a mechanical spring mechanism. The batteries can either be small, replaceable cells or of a permanent nature where the power of electricity or sunlight, or the movement of the wearer’s arm, charges the battery. The electrical current causes a small bar of synthetic quartz to constantly vibrate at a specific frequency. These vibrations are “scaled down” by other parts in the watch to result in one impulse per second.

ACCURACY Mechanical watches have many moving parts, which result in friction and wear and hence are less accurate. Quartz analog watches have fewer moving parts than mechanical watches and thus have better accuracy. Digital watches have no moving parts and the constant vibrations of a quartz crystal result in amazing accuracy.

COST Wristwatches can cost from a few hundred to thousands of dollars. Digital watches are normally less expensive than analogs because they contain basic electronic parts that are mass-produced, inexpensive and assembled in countries with a low cost structure. Often, their casings are made from inexpensive synthetic materials. The most expensive watches are those made by craftsmen using precious metals (platinum and/or gold, or gold combined with stainless steel or titanium), often set with precious stones. The extreme skill required to manufacture these watches and the cost involved in establishing an international brand justify their price.

The valuation of watches and how to spot a fake are described in Chapter 12, Valuation of Gems and Jewellery.

ISSUE 28

4. DINNERWARE The jeweller who stocks dinnerware should be able to advise his client during the selection process.

paste cleaner. Avoid excessive rubbing and never rub in a circular or crosswise motion.

The choices should be narrowed by indicating the types of design available, such as geometric, floral, solid or small pattern bands, etc. Patterns are sometimes discontinued.

If the client is concerned that a broken piece cannot be replaced, steer her towards an established pattern that has been available for years, or advise her that there is nothing wrong with co-ordinating pieces with different patterns and colours. Mix-and-match has become de rigueur for the modern dinner table.

Avoid a polish called “Silver Dip”. It will strip off all tarnish, even the tarnish the manufacturer has applied to make the design show better.

Forms and shapes could vary from individually hand-made free forms or the more regular coupe shape (rimless), or a deep-rimmed style. For your shop display, group together pastels, earth tones, white, bright rainbow colours, etc.

1. FLATWARE • Sterling silverware The finest flatware is made from sterling silver, which is an alloy that contains 92,5% pure silver. It is the most expensive of all flatware because of the metal used and the labour involved. With continued use, minute scratches develop on the silver surface to produce a much-desired patina.

Sterling silver that is kept in a drawer for extended periods will have to be polished before each use. Sterling flatware made by famous silversmiths such as Georg Jensen demands exceptional prices today.

• Care of silverware Sterling silverware should be washed immediately after use to avoid the development of stains that food such as eggs, fruit juices, tomatoes, mustard, salt and salad dressing may cause.

Hand-washing with a mild dishwashing liquid is recommended. Avoid lemon-scented detergents and those containing chlorides. Wash separately from stainless steelware, hand-dry with a soft cloth and store after it has cooled. If you want to use a dishwasher, it is necessary to wash the items the first four or five times by hand. Remove the silverware before the dry cycle, hand-dry with a soft cloth and store, if possible, in a tarnish-resistant flatware chest. Do not wrap your silverware in any type of plastic, rubber bands or newspaper. These items contain sulphur, which will cause unwanted tarnish.

Depending on the frequency of use, silverware needs to be polished. Use a very soft cloth and a non-abrasive foaming

• Silver-plated flatware Silver-plated flatware is made of a base metal core which is electroplated with thin layers of pure silver. The layers of silver are extremely thin and are measured in microns. The more inexpensive silver plate flatware has between 2-5 microns of silver plating, while the most expensive silver plate carries a layer of 60 microns of silver. A human hair is about 100 microns thick.

Care of silver-plated items is the same as for proper silverware.

• Stainless steel flatware Stainless steel flatware is the least expensive flatware a jeweller should carry. It is rust-resistant and has a cooler look and feel than sterling silver. It comes in many designer styles, some of which emulate the look of sterling flatware. The price, however, is a fraction of that of a sterling set. It is often stamped with numbers such as 18/10, which indicates that the metal contains 18% chromium and 10% nickel.

• Care of stainless steel If stubborn stains or rust spots occur on stainless steel items, these can be removed with a non-abrasive stainless steel or metal polish found in most hardware stores. Do not soak stainless steel items overnight.

2. STEMWARE AND TUMBLERS Fine stemware should be chosen to complement the pattern and the style of the flat- and dinnerware to be used. Once the dinnerware has been selected, lay it on a small table and select the co-ordinating stemware.

Stemware comes in different styles, ie, etched, cut or plain. The most expensive is plain stemware because the glassmaker finds it more difficult to create a perfect stem, whereas the decorative styles allow him to hide his mistakes.

A machine-made glass stem normally shows a seam which is caused when the glass is made in a mould. Pattern edges are rounded on mass-produced glassware compared with the sharp edges in hand-cut crystal. Inexpensive stemware normally has a lightweight base. Show these differences to your client to justify the higher price of the hand-made glassware.

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• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

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• What jewellers will be talking about this year

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

• Diamond market set for full recovery by 2024 • De Beers announces 12 ambitious 2030 goals

• Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery

• Pearl quality 101

• All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks

• From humble beginnings to bespoke jewellery designer

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• How to market across generations

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HOW IT WORKS Select your cover choice by emailing sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za with the letter featured above your selection. Remember to state ‘SAJN Cover of the Year’ in the subject line.

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SAJN | INDUSTRY INTERVIEW

How can South Africans benefit more from an industry with a global reach?

In an exclusive interview with SAJN, Cecil Khosa, CEO of the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR), says job creation, trade integrity, promotion of equitable access, beneficiations and enterprise development are its main focus this year.

What is the core function of the SADPMR? The SADPMR was established by the Diamonds Amendment Act of 2005 (Act No 29 of 2005).

The regulator is classified as a schedule 3A public entity in terms of the Public Finance Management Act, 1999. The mandate is to regulate the buying, selling, importing and exporting of diamonds and precious metals such as gold and platinum group metals.

The regulator is also responsible for the implementation of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme.

What is the purpose of the Jewellery Manufacturers Precinct Gauteng Industrial Development Zone?

The SADPMR recently moved its offices to the Gauteng Industrial Development Zone Jewellery Manufacturers Precinct situated in OR Tambo Airport. The new office address is: Cnr Bonaero Drive and Côte D’Azur Ave, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park 1622. The new offices

provide better and safer facilities for exporting, importing and trading of diamonds. They also provide easy access to the airport for both clients and forwarding agencies.

Beneficiation remains a major focus of the SADPMR. How can South Africans benefit more from an industry with a global reach?

Government’s priority rests on the imperative

of creating more inclusive economic growth by encouraging labour-absorptive economic activities – and mineral beneficiation has been identified as one of the priority growth nodes for job creation. To that end, the beneficiation strategy for the mineral industry in SA, together with other related strategies (such as the national industrialisation programme), seeks to [reduce] the export of raw minerals to create value addition or beneficiation. The benefits that derive from beneficiation apply to business entities that add value to minerals, as well as to countries from where such beneficiation takes place.

Key among the benefits arising from beneficiation are the following: • Heightened levels of companies’ profits margins.

• An increase in the gross domestic value of the country.

• The development of secondary industries around the manufacturing plant areas.

The SADPMR is embarking on number of enterprise development projects in jewellery-making in the diamond and precious metal industries which are already unlocking the expertise to produce proudly South African products.

30

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

INDUSTRY INTERVIEW | SAJN • An increase in the country’s export revenue for companies with a global reach.

• Job creation and industrialisation.

• Beneficiation helps tackle the triple challenges facing SA: unemployment, poverty and inequality.

The SADPMR has a legislative mandate to promote local beneficiation of the country’s diamonds by ensuring that minimum thresholds set by legislation for that purpose are met before export is allowed. Similarly, the export of precious metals is only permitted if there is proof that local supply for beneficiation has been met, thus securing the benefit of all South Africans.

What does the SADPMR hope to achieve during 2022 and going forward?

Job creation Job creation and skills development interventions focusing mainly on women, youth and other historically disadvantaged persons will be further initiated through partnerships with the industry we regulate. We’ll be strengthening our relations with the industry for the benefit of new entrants into it. This will require us to work closely with those we regulate, while still maintaining our regulating function and acting as a facilitator for the benefit of all.

Trade integrity The SADPMR recognises that its regulatory processes are lacking when it comes to enforcing compliance. One of our key functions is to monitor and enforce compliance of legislative provisions governing the downstream diamond and precious metals industry.

The regulator is also determined to reduce illicit trading in the diamond and precious metal industry by increasing the number of precious metal joint inspections conducted with law enforcement stakeholders.

The steady rise in the demand for synthetic diamond jewellery products poses a threat to the natural diamond market, especially the lack of disclosure and failure to detect thereafter.

The SADPMR strives to protect consumers against unfair trading practices, especially at the hands of exploitative traders. In order to do so, it will continue using synthetic diamond detection technology in order to ensure integrity in the diamond exchange value chain.

Promotion of equitable access and beneficiations The regulator will continue ensuring that equitable access to diamonds by beneficiators and dealers through the Diamond and Exchange Export Centre is achieved. While it’s mandatory to promote access to local diamond production by local licensees, it’s also important to ensure that diamonds are traded at their fair market value, especially during imports and exports.

This helps prevent transfer pricing.

The diamond-cutting and jewellery manufacturing industries have declined over the past few years. The high numbers of retrenchments in cutting and polishing factories and declining jewellery manufacturing output bear testimony to this. Therefore, despite COVID-19 challenges, we’ve witnessed an inspiring level of resilience in the industry. Export approval evaluations to cater for local demand remain the key instruments for promotion of beneficiation.

Enterprise development The SADPMR is embarking on a number of enterprise development projects in jewellerymaking in the diamond and precious metal industries which are already unlocking the expertise to produce proudly South African products. This is also supported by training new entrants in diamond planning, marking, sorting, valuation and pricing.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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THE APRIL BIRTHSTONE | SAJN

Diamond: a closer look at the birthstone for April Sparkling with an internal fire all its own, diamond is one of the world’s most sought-after and adored gemstones. Those born in April are lucky enough to call this scintillating gem their birthstone, a symbol of clarity and strength.

A DIAMOND IS EXTREMELY STRONG – IN FACT, its name is derived from the Greek word “adamas”, which means “invincible” or “unbreakable”. The timeless charm of a diamond was cherished long before it became

the diamond market for more than 150 years.

The discovery of diamonds near Kimberley in SA in the late 1860s marked the beginning of the modern diamond market. Entrepreneur Cecil John Rhodes established De Beers

jor producers of rough diamonds. These include the Democratic Republic of Congo (previously known as Zaire) and Botswana. The former Soviet Union opened its first major mine in 1960 and Russia is now one of the top producers by both

the April birthstone and the places where diamonds come from are as fascinating as the lore that surrounds it.

Love for the April birthstone started in India, where diamonds were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Traded as early as the fourth century BCE, diamonds were coveted by royalty and the wealthy. Later, caravans brought Indian diamonds, along with other exotic merchandise, to medieval markets in Venice. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite. The first diamond engagement ring on record was given by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to his betrothed, Mary of Burgundy, in 1477. Recent evidence supports the origin of the legendary 45,52ct blue Hope diamond in India’s Golconda mining area and its sale to King Louis XIV of France (thereafter known as the French Blue diamond) in 1668.

In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered when gold miners sifted through gravel on the banks of the Jequitinhonha River in Minas Gerais. Brazil dominated

Consolidated Mines Ltd in 1888. By 1900, it controlled an estimated 90% of the world’s production of rough diamonds.

The largest diamond ever found – at 3 106ct (621 g) – was recovered from SA’s Premier mine in 1905. From it was cut the pear-shaped 530ct Cullinan I diamond, also known as the Great Star of Africa, which is now set in the Royal Sceptre with Cross and housed with the other Crown Jewels in the Tower of London.

An anonymous second-century poet maintained that diamonds warded off the evil eye – a malevolent look believed to cause sickness, poverty and death. They were even believed to have healing powers. Over the centuries, they were thought to be an antidote to poison and provide protection against the plague. Some claim that they are a boon for longevity, strength, beauty and happiness.

In addition to being the April birthstone, diamond is the gift of choice for the 60th and 75th wedding anniversaries. And, of course, today the diamond engagement ring has become a near-universal symbol of love and marriage.

Diamonds are now mined around the world. By the early 2000s, South Africa had been joined by other African nations as ma-

volume and value (though its diamond industry has taken a severe beating in the Russia-Ukraine war). Diamond mining expanded dramatically with the opening of the Argyle mine in Australia in 1983 and the discovery of several diamond deposits in northern Canada in the 1990s.

Diamonds in Botswana lie in the typically hot, semi-arid eastern region of the country.

These prolific mines have brought a boom to the economy, creating a growing middle class.

The country is also a diamond hub, where approximately 40% of the world’s supply of rough diamonds are sorted and valued.

A diamond (10 on the Mohs hardness scale) is usually durable enough to be placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. However, if a diamond has many inclusions or has been treated, it is best to clean it with a lint-free cloth, or use warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush or a commercial jewellery cleaning solution.

Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services.

The discovery of diamonds near Kimberley in SA in the late 1860s marked the beginning of the modern diamond market.

Entrepreneur Cecil John Rhodes established De Beers Consolidated Mines Ltd in 1888. By 1900, it controlled an estimated 90% of the world’s production of rough diamonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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SAJN | BUSINESS

New COVID-19 data: South Africa has arrived at the recovery stage of the pandemic SERO-POSITIVITY MEASURES THE PRESENCE of antibodies against the virus; it indicates past infection. The study focused on Gauteng, the country’s economic hub.

What we found The results show the levels of sero-positivity – in other words, what percentage of people have antibodies to the virus – among just over 7 000 people from whom samples were taken. From these results, the following rates were calculated: • In those under 12 years of age, none of whom received a COVID-19 vaccine, 56% showed presence of antibodies to SARS-CoV-2.

• In those over 50 it was 80%, including 70% if unvaccinated and 93% if vaccinated.

• In high-density inner-city areas the seropositivity prevalence was 85%.

Using the seroprevalence data, together with COVID-19 attributable deaths using excess mortality data from the South African Medical Research Council (SAMRC), the study was also able to impute the risk of dying following infection by SARS-CoV-2 prior to the omicron wave in South Africa. This infection fatality risk for

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A recently published South African study set out to determine sero-positivity against SARS-CoV-2 before the fourth wave of COVID-19, in which the omicron variant was dominant. Writing for The Conversation, Ozayr Patel asked Shabir Madhi to unpack the results and explain why the findings suggest that South Africa has reached a turning point in the pandemic.

COVID-19 was 0,57% pre-omicron in Gauteng.

This is substantially higher than 0,019% imputed for seasonal flu, which infected onethird of the population each year pre-COVID-19, calculated using similar methods.

Vaccination coverage: We discovered high levels of hybrid immunity, that is immunity gained from a combination of previous infections plus vaccinations.

At the time of the onset of the omicron wave, 36% of people in Gauteng had had at least one dose of the vaccine. This was higher – 61% – in those over the age of 50.

(This cohort was responsible for more than

80% of deaths pre-omicron.)

Based on the sero-survey, 70% of vaccinated people were also infected pre-omicron.

Hence, they would have had substantial hybrid immunity, which has been shown to induce a broader repertoire of immune responses against the virus. Such hybrid immunity in South Africa has, however, come at the cost of 300 000 lives based on SAMRC excess mortality estimates. These are three-fold higher than the official recorded number of deaths.

Based on another study, the hybrid immunity is expected to confer greater protection against infection and mild COVID-19 compared with

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

BUSINESS | SAJN immunity only from vaccine or natural infection.

Hospitalisations and death rates: Our study also analysed the temporal trends in COVID-19 cases, hospitalisations and deaths (recorded and COVID-19-attributable from excess mortality) from the start of the pandemic up until the tail end of the omicron wave. The study found a massive decoupling between the number of people becoming infected with the virus relative to COVID-19 hospitalisation and death rates during the course of omicron compared with earlier waves. This was true across all adult age groups.

The omicron wave was associated with 10% of all hospitalisations since the start of the pandemic, whereas 44% of hospitalisations had transpired during the course of the delta variant wave. More impressively, only 3% of COVID-19 deaths since the start of the pandemic occurred during the omicron wave, compared with 50% during the delta dominant wave.

The findings of decoupling of infections and severe or fatal COVID-19 were similar in the 50- to 59-year age group. In this group the omicron wave contributed to 15% of recorded COVID-19 hospitalisations and 2% of deaths since the start of the pandemic. This compares with 46% of hospitalisations and 53% of deaths occurring in the third wave, dominated by delta. The data for people over 60 years old was similar.

The survey also found that 58% of children under 12 years of age (all unvaccinated) were sero-positive. They were not more heavily affected during the omicron wave.

The delta dominant wave, which was the most severe in South Africa, coincided with South Africa’s belated COVID-19 vaccine rollout. The high death rate during that wave is an indictment of the missed opportunities that could have prevented a large percentage of the deaths which transpired. In particular, the delayed procurement and roll-out of COVID-19 vaccines in South Africa, as well as the ill-informed decision to go against the World Health Organisation recommendation on the continued use of the AstraZeneca vaccine which was available to in South Africa when the beta variant was circulating in South Africa.

In summary, the omicron wave contributed to less than 5% of all COVID-19 deaths in Gauteng. Since the start of the pandemic, the delta variant wave contributed to 50% of all of the deaths. The balance is split roughly equally between the first and second waves caused by ancestry and the beta variant.

Our findings also show that natural infection has been high and is playing a major role in how the pandemic has unfolded, especially

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

in countries with low to moderate COVID-19 roll-out. These high levels of infections have, however, resulted in a massive loss of lives, which to date is likely under-estimated in lowand middle-income countries, as shown from the South African data.

What the findings tell us The findings indicate that South Africa is moving into the convalescent phase of the COVID-19 pandemic – the recovery phase. This is likely to be the same in other countries with low or modest vaccine uptake, but a high force of past infections. As such, South Africa needs to recalibrate its approach to the pandemic and to start managing it as we would do for other respiratory infections which also cause large number of hospitalisations and deaths.

There are still a few unknowns. Another resurgence is likely and there might well be another variant. But it would be very surprising if further variants were able to evade the T-cell arm of the immune system which is stimulated by vaccines and natural infection. The T-cell (cell-mediated immunity) arm of the immune system appears to be the main mediator of protecting against severe COVID-19, even when there are breakthrough infections in vaccinated people or reinfections.

So why do I believe that we are at the tail end of this pandemic? It depends on what metric you use. If it is about infections, we are not at the tail end. If it is about the number of deaths that will transpire from COVID-19 during 2022, relative to the number of deaths that will transpire from other preventable causes of death in countries such as South Africa, then I believe the country has pretty much approached the end of this pandemic.

In South Africa about 10 00011,000 people die of seasonal influenza every year. In 2019 tuberculosis killed 58 000. But we are not declaring an emergency in South Africa to deal with flu or tuberculosis. Deaths from HIV, and complications from HIV, are about

70 000. But South Africa is not shutting down the country to prevent deaths and infections from these diseases.

Now what?

Only 12% of people across the continent have received one dose of vaccination. The implications of our findings are that: • Vaccine coverage must be enhanced by ensuring that adequate booster doses are given to those who require it. We might need to continue boosting. This might need to be on an annual basis for the next two to three years, especially for high-risk individuals.

The timeline for this is until we have more experience on the durability of protection of vaccines, particularly in settings with a high prevalence of hybrid immunity (where protection may be even longer-lasting.)

Campaigns should be focused primarily on high-risk groups, including getting over 90% of people over 50 years of age vaccinated before the next resurgence anticipated. This should be the focus, rather than the current arbitrary target of vaccinating 40-70% of the population.

• It is still beneficial to expand vaccinations in settings with high sero-positivity. Studies on hybrid immunity show this delivers more robust and broader repertoire immune responses that could heighten protection against infection and reduce the magnitude of future resurgences.

• It is also important that key non-pharmaceutical interventions are kept in place. This includes wearing masks in crowded or poorly ventilated indoor places, particularly for high-risk individuals when there is an increase in virus transmission activity.

Our findings support the optimism expressed at the beginning of 2022 in South Africa that a turning point had been reached in the pandemic. Many in high-income countries dismissed this view as not applicable to their settings, despite high vaccine coverage.

But their experience has since generally aligned with South Africa’s.

Lastly, better COVID-19 vaccines are required. But the world is no longer at “code red”. And it is time to rebuild livelihoods, economies and all other facets of life that were affected over the past two years. This is particularly true in fragile low- and middle-income countries.

– Republished with permission from The Conversation

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SAJN | COINS THE BIG 5 SERIES II UNVEILS THE LONGawaited second portrait design of the obverse, while the reverse design remains unchanged from series I. This split portrait features a unique construct, revealing a complete portrait of a lion only when placed side by side with another coin. In this way, an entire pride can be built by placing multiple coins next to each other.

The obverse design for series II shows the lion in a different light from series I in that the focus is on the beauty of these regal animals.

The coin is yet another proud continuation of a series that features the highest standards of artistry in both design and modelling. This limited-edition series is once again offered in fine silver, 24ct gold and platinum.

The silver offering includes a 1 oz, which is available in brilliant uncirculated quality and packed in a colourful blister folder that incorporates the printed image of a lion. The proof quality 1 oz is encapsulated in a double capsule that shows the split portrait on the reverse, completing the image of a single animal.

Similar to series I, the gold lion will be available in a 1 oz proof quality packaged in a single box. In series II, the gold range is extended to include a ¼ oz proof quality coin which is available either as a single coin or in a double-coin set.

Both the silver and gold 1 oz Big 5 proof coins are available in a combination set with either a gold or silver 1 oz Krugerrand that bears a privy mark featuring a lion.

The 1 oz platinum proof coin is available in a single packaging.

“It’s very exciting to introduce the lion coin, the latest in the second series of the award-winning collection. The Big 5 series has proven to be an iconic range of coins for collectors worldwide and the esteemed World Money Fair was the ideal platform to announce the release of the lion and amplify it to the world,” says Honey Mamabolo, MD of the South African Mint.

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SA Mint launches the lion in the Big 5 Series II coin range The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, has launched the lion design in the second series of the Big 5 coin range to coincide with the advent of the 2022 World Money Fair in Berlin, Germany. This is the second animal theme to be released in the second series of the Big 5 collectable coin range, following the elephant, which was issued in August 2021.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

COINS | SAJN

R2 circulation coin wins prestigious international award The “25 years of constitutional democracy, freedom and security of the person” R2 circulation coin has received the Best Circulation Coin Award at the 2022 Coin of the Year (COTY) Awards.

The commemorative coin depicts on its reverse a mother and daughter walking freely in nature. The daughter is holding a sunflower, which is magical in its ability to move its head towards the sun, resonant of the resilience, optimism and hopefulness of the young.

This R2 coin is the result of a national competition held at the end of 2019. The competition called on all South Africans to submit designs for a new R2 coin featuring a right of their choice from the South African Bill of Rights that had not been featured on the earlier 2019 SA25 commemorative circulation coins. The winning design was submitted by a local graphic designer, Esta Quirk.

The COTY Awards is an internationally conducted programme that recognises excellence and ingenuity in the world of coin design and celebrates the accomplishments of mints, central banks and contractors globally in numismatic design, artistic vision, craftsmanship and marketing efforts.

The Best Circulating Coin category, under which the SA Mint was nominated and conferred, recognises coins that are made of non-precious metals, possess allround appeal (from both aesthetic and commercial viewpoints) and best meet the basic considerations of actual circulating monetary units.

The SA Mint was also nominated among the Best in the Best Gold Coin category for the 1 oz (R50) Big 5 rhino coin and the Most Inspirational Coin category for the 2½c South African Inventions tickey showcasing a South African invention that revolutionised cataract surgery − the retinal cryoprobe.

This win follows a few others received by the SA Mint at the COTY Awards in recent years, namely Best Gold Coin (2009) for the 1 oz (R100) Natura featuring the “White Rhino Safari Through Africa”, the coveted Coin of the Year (2012) for the ½ oz (R50) Natura featuring “Nature’s Family – The Meerkat” and, most recently, the Best Contemporary Event (2019) for the (R2) crown depicting the world’s first successful humanto-human heart transplant.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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SAJN | WATCHES

Writing for Solitaire magazine, Smitha Sadanandan explores how design and technology come together, shaping the Bulgari x MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra.

A moment in time IT TAKES COURAGE AND AN INEXHAUSTible appetite for creativity to design horological marvels like the Bulgari x MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra: A timepiece crafted with an unconventional approach. It’s the result of the brilliant minds of Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and MB&F’s founder and Creative Director, Maximilian Büsser, whirring into action.

It all started four years ago at Dubai Watch Week when Max (Maximilian) introduced himself to Fabrizio and told him how much of a fan he was. “While having coffee, Fabrizio did not stop sketching all sorts of potential Bulgari x MB&F pieces. It was for the fun of it.

Neither of us thought this would ever happen,” he recalls. Two years later, at another Dubai Watch Week event, the duo had breakfast and this time they had company – Antoine Pin, the newlyappointed Managing Director of Bulgari watches. Antoine, having witnessed first-

40

hand the passion both Max and Fabrizio shared about a potential collaboration, gave the nod. What unfolded is a story of two people who set out to create a futuristic women’s timepiece.

Although the two talents discussed all sorts of projects, it stayed between them.

It was in March 2020, mid-lockdown, during a Zoom call with both their teams that Max suggested they use the FlyingT (created in 2019) for the endeavour. “While I was explaining why it seemed to make sense for us, I could see Fabrizio sketching furiously – and suddenly, he lifted up the drawing which was more or less what our FlyingT Allegra would be. It was perfect.

I immediately agreed and we started working on it,” reveals Max. As for Fabrizio, he shared with Max a passion for ‘80s culture, Goldorak, and the UFO trend. While MB&F pieces reflect this aesthetic and served to fire his imagination, it seemed inevitable that Fabrizio would take that passion further.

“It plays with volume in a way we don’t

at Bulgari. So, of course, I wanted to give it a try! Transforming the plain design of Allegra into a dome, finally making my UFO too.”

During their initial discussions, Fabrizio envisioned a carousel of coloured gems in the Flying T dome. “Max understood the intention and accepted that I was, kind of, disturbing his so-neat design by introducing the gems inside of the dome in the Bulgari way, not in the MB&F way.

When we saw the first prototype of the watch, we both agreed that it was exactly what it was supposed to be. It was amazing,” says Fabrizio.

Bulgari watches – like the Octo Finissimo line – are noted for their record-breaking thinness. Nevertheless, the Maison also creates the likes of the Octo Roma with a larger dimension that enables Fabrizio’s team to develop chiming watches, or the Serpenti series – opulent and visually generous. “What was interesting with MB&F was that its specific shape allowed me to imagine a coloured world inside

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

WATCHES | SAJN of the dome. We picked the stones, in both shape and colour, following the Allegra collection. They’re harmonious when you put them together. When you look at it, you see the harmony and the balance.

This is the beauty of the collaboration: the symmetric and sharp design from MB&F and the fantasy and playful design from Bulgari,” says Fabrizio.

On closer inspection, the stunning “flying” coloured stones in different cuts and sizes seem to be gyrating around MB&F’s flying tourbillon. “Fabrizio completely redesigned our case by making it more ‘UFO’-like and by taking the lugs off and increasing the size of the bezel to accommodate the larger diamonds. Except for the movement, every

single part of this watch was redesigned by Fabrizio. We then engineered everything accordingly – which is a pretty intense amount of work for such a small series of only 40 pieces,” explains Max, whose FlyingT was originally dreamed up as a “love letter” to his wife and two daughters. It took him four years (between 2015 and 2019) to transform the idea into reality. “I’m a very symmetrical creator and while this design is asymmetrical, I love it. It took me to a place where I would never have gone,” he adds.

Fabrizio kept all those fundamentals intact and added the Bulgari world to it. This is a timepiece that is much more than the sum of its parts. The white gold and red gold versions have the same diamond set

dial plate and dials – the differences reside in the big Allegra coloured stones.

“This was probably our most seamless collaboration to date – a pure moment of joy. I will admit I was terrified of working with a big company like Bulgari. I thought there would be endless meetings, marketing briefs and multiple validations at different levels, which would suck up time and energy. But nothing of the sort happened. Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin clearly works with an entrepreneurial spirit and gives free rein to his watchmaking team, who, in turn, are incredibly efficient and fast. Both our teams were very happy working together over the past two years, which proves, once again, that whatever the size of the company, it is always about people,” Max points out.

– Republished with permission from Solitaire

Founded in 2002, Solitaire is a wellestablished women’s jewellery magazine circulated in the Asia Pacific region.

Published bi-monthly in Singapore, it covers the latest news and stories on fine jewellery, luxury watches and fashion from around the world.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine.

Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

Tiara – a regal headdress 42

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN TIARAS – OR DIADEMS, AS THEY ARE ALSO known – have been fashionable hair ornaments in court circles and for ladies of society since time immemorial.

At the turn of the 20th century, more tiaras were made than ever before. By the 1920s they had evolved into a fashion statement worn on bobbed heads, some as bandeaux and aigrettes. Every woman and young girl would like to wear one at least once in her life, as it signifies glamour and sophistication. That opportunity is provided to her as a bride.

For centuries, brides have worn tiaras during the wedding ceremony. They add to the regal look a bride wishes to achieve, as well as to the grandeur of her appearance. Queen Elizabeth II wore one on her wedding day, as have numerous other monarchs.

According to customs of the past 200 years, tiaras have been the official headdresses of married women and dowagers. They have long been worn by the nobility and those attending ultra-formal events.

Egyptian princesses wore amazingly delicate ones which could represent a floral wreath executed in gold wire inlaid with stones, portraying the delicacy of wild flowers.

Among the earliest found were diadems from Greek and Roman times, always intended to portray the wearer as someone special. Greek diadems were made of gold and were worn on ceremonial occasions.

They were natural-looking imitations of wreaths of real leaves made in gold, silver and materials plated with gold or silver sheet and decorated

By the 1920s they had evolved into a fashion statement worn on bobbed heads, some as bandeaux and aigrettes. Every woman and young girl would like to wear one at least once in her life, as it signifies glamour and sophistication. That opportunity is provided to her as a bride. with simple patterns of dots embossed from the back.

The meaning of “diadem” is “to wind around” and in ancient Greece, this took the form of a white ribbon bound around the head.

A diadem was also awarded to Olympic champions who wore them on celebratory occasions.

With the fall of Athens in the 4th century BC and its rise again during the time of Alexander the Great, he and his cohorts donned Persian dress and wore diadems decorated in gold and precious stones. The name “tiara” originated in ancient Persia, where only the king was allowed to wear one. It was usually tall and conical in shape, heavily ornamented with jewels.

In regal circles, Queen Alexandra, the wife of King Edward VII who was renowned for her beauty and good taste, commissioned court jeweller, Garrard, to create a tiara in the style of a Russian peasant girl’s headdress. Her sister, Princess Dagmar, who became the Empress Maria Feodorovna of Russia on her marriage, had a similar tiara consisting of 61 platinum bars filled with 488 diamonds which today is often worn by Queen Elizabeth II. One wonders how it reappeared in England after the Russian Revolution – thereby hangs a tale, no doubt! Still in England, in 1911 King George V commissioned a tiara which remains part of the Crown Jewels.

The Roaring Twenties saw a different version of a diadem in the form of bandeaux worn around the forehead or on the back of the head. Jewelled versions could be transformed into bracelets.

Film star Audrey Hepburn, who had a regal posture, wore a tiara in three of her movies – Roman Holiday, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and My Fair Lady. And in local circles, a renowned Sandton jeweller was commissioned by a senior De Beers executive to design and make a diamond tiara which he hoped his daughters would wear at their weddings and retain for posterity by passing it on to the next generation.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 073 92 45254 E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS Tel: 072 928 0385 E-mail: info@schermans.co.za AMBIGO JEWELLERS Tel: 062 282 6924 E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 061 080 6481 Email: anna@annarosholt.com ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 566 5046 E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8 E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AUGENTA JEWELLERS Tel: 021 883 8288 E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590 E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 475 7891 E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS VALLEY HYPER Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/ BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/ BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY Tel: 079 560 5064 E-mail: info@bokook.co.za BRADLEY MANUFACTURING T/A VARGA MANUFACTURING Tel no: 011 327 7926 E-mail: bradjew@mweb.co.za BRAND ATHENA A Tel: 072 272 3089 E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 202 5021 E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632 E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za CHANDLER’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693 E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 3252 E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com COLLEGE OF CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 464 3821 E-mail: calbrechts@cct.edu.za; eoosthuizen@cct.edu.za Website: http://www.cct.edu.za/ CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com D FABRIK (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 327 7926 E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 083 454 2161 E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: https://www.designergold-el.co.za/

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: http://www.christopherreid.co.za/

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP Tel: 072 830 5656 E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com

DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

DLR JEWELLERS Tel: 057 101 0359 E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 021 914 0838 E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488 E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY Tel: 079 477 2729 E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection INFACET Tel no: 082 878 4949 E-mail: bridgette@infacet.co.za Website: www.infacet.co.za INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/ JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/ JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JONNERLEE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za; info@thejeweller.co.za Website: www.thejeweller.co.za JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/ K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

E-mail: mambudesign@mweb.co.za; mambuorders@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/ MAGGIE AFRICA Tel: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/ MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/ MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PREVIDA & CO Tel: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/ SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/ ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/ RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/ STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/ STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

SUMMER 2021

21 SUMMER 20

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