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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
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Virtual diamond trading floor for local industry Pearls: their cultivation, types, identification and valuation The colours of red
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Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition 25-27 SEPTEMBER 2016 GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE, 19 RICHARDS DRIVE, MIDRAND, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex
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c ntents 17. BRAND HISTORY
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7. NEWS
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• Jewellery’s role in supporting developing economies must be part of its public image, says CIBJO President
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Seiko: the pursuit of excellence
• Keira Knightley named new face of Chanel Jewellery
Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk
• Antwerp diamond industry launches “Diamonds and Antwerp – It’s in Our DNA”
Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
• World Diamond Mark introduces Retailer Opinion Poll
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• Portal launched for industry education
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• IDE and DDC to hold fifth Israel Diamond Week in New York
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28. LITTLE GEMS The colours of red
13. TECHNOLOGY Virtual diamond trading floor for local industry
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
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14. PEARLS Pearls: their cultivation, types, identification and valuation
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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
AUGUST 2016
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
The industry's only trade journal
Virtual diamond trading floor for local industry Pearls: their cultivation, types, identification and valuation The colours of red
On the cover Richline SA supplies a basket of innovatively designed, consistent-quality precious metal products and services to the South African market. It aims to expand into Africa and beyond and to assist in creating a sustainable model for the jewellery industry in SA. For more information, contact Richline SA on tel: (011) 418 1600.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
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NEWS
JEWELLERY’S ROLE IN SUPPORTING DEVELOPING ECONOMIES While jewellery is a luxury product and nonessential to those who purchase it, the jewellery and gemstone industries are essential to the development of economies and communities around the world, said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri at the 15th Rendez-Vous Gemmologiques de Paris in the French capital. The gathering, which was hosted by the Association Française de Gemmologie and moderated by its President, Didier Giard, selected this year to review gemstone mines and mining districts around the world, considering the ethics of sustainable development of mining territories and their populations. “The jewellery business and the revenue it generates are critical to the economic for-
tunes of many countries around the world, especially those where diamonds, gemstones and precious metals are mined,” said Cavalieri. “In those places it’s able to create sustainable economic opportunities, which in turn promote and support positive social development. ”Jewellery, which is typically classed as a luxury product, is to many people symbolic of conspicuous consumption. However, if we could instil in the public the understanding that when you purchase an item of jewellery, you’re also contributing to the economic well-being and social advancement of people living in underdeveloped areas, then the significance of buying jewellery would be elevated from one of purely personal value toone with societal value as well.” Cavalieri referred to a synthetic diamond producer from the USA which features a statement on its website by actor Leonardo DiCaprio that, by buying a man-made diamond, one is “reducing the human and environmental toll of the diamond industry by sustainably culturing diamonds without the destructive use of mining”. “In and of itself, that statement is problematic,” observed Cavalieri. “After all, if the only way we can protect people in Africa and elsewhere from the consequences of mining is by cutting them out of the diamond production business entirely, it’s indeed a sad state of affairs.”
JEWELLERY COUNCIL COLLECTION AWARDS DESIGN COMPETITION 2016 The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) has invited all students and apprentices to participate in Jewellery Council Collection Awards Design Competition 2016. This year’s theme is “Spring in Africa”. The article must be a ring with a cost limit of R5 000 (retail). Judging will take place 25 and 26 September and will be done by visitors and exhibitors at Jewellex Africa 2016. A number of exciting prizes are up for grabs. Entries and finished jewellery items must be submitted to the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa offices (The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, 2193) for the attention of Lebohang Sematla no later than 1 September. For more information or an entry form contact tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: lebos@jewellery.org.za.
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NEWS
ANTWERP DIAMOND INDUSTRY LAUNCHES NEW CAMPAIGN The Antwerp diamond industry has launched a new campaign which aims to reinvigorate the city’s reputation as the diamond capital of the world, both at home and abroad. The initiative celebrates more than five centuries in which the city has been synonymous with diamonds, highlighted by a festive diamond-themed period starting in October 2017, organised by the City of Antwerp. “Diamonds and Antwerp – It’s in Our DNA” is the new slogan that encapsulates the 550-year relationship between the city and the stones perfectly. Antwerp owes its inter-
national allure to the diamond industry, just as the diamond industry can thank the city for its name and fame. Antwerp’s Mayor, Bart de Wever and Antwerp World Diamond Centre CEO, Ari Epstein, inaugurated the new campaign. A big, lively tableau vivant featuring 16 industry representatives will brighten up the diamond district these coming months. The portrait symbolises the diamond community in all its diversity and uniqueness and highlights 10 key values for which Antwerp is known throughout the international diamond community: it is recognised as the best trade centre in the world where sustainability, transparency, integrity and quality are the highest priorities, where craftsmanship is a passion and tradition and innovation come together. It is also home
to a diverse and active community who honour these values and traditions. “The diamond industry is inherent to the city of Antwerp and is one of the main reasons tourists visit it,” says Margaux Donckier, Head of Communications and spokesperson at the Antwerp World Diamond Centre. “No other city in the world accommodates such a trade centre. With this campaign and the upcoming Diamond Year, the city as well as the diamond industry want to highlight this unique strength. ‘Diamonds and Antwerp – It’s in Our DNA’ is a campaign all Antwerpians can support by signing the DNA charter and becoming an ambassador of the city and its diamond industry.” The campaign will also be promoted internationally as of September this year.
PORTAL LAUNCHED FOR INDUSTRY EDUCATION The Jewelers’ Education Foundation (JEF) has launched a portal providing information on educational programmes offered by a range of industry bodies. The Jewelers’ Education Portal is a collaborative resource for existing and prospective members of the trade about courses offered
by jewellery, diamond, coloured stones, precious metal and watch associations. It also offers information about other services such as crime prevention, legal and ethical standards, appraisals and credit reporting. The site includes links to career services and details of events run by the partici-
pating organisations. Sponsoring organisations – from the USA and Canada – include the American Gem Society, the American Gem Trade Association, the Gemological Institute of America, Jewelers of America and the Jewelers’ Security Alliance. – Rapaport
IDE AND DDC TO HOLD FIFTH ISRAEL DIAMOND WEEK IN NEW YORK Building on past success, the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) and the Diamond Dealers Club (DDC) of New York will be holding the fifth Israel Diamond Week in New York from 31 October-2 November 2016. As in previous events, the upcoming edition will be held on the trading floor of the DDC at 580 Fifth Ave in midtown Manhattan. IDE President Yoram Dvash says that following the positive climate for diamond sales evidenced at the recent JCK Las Vegas show, he has high expectations for Israeli diamond sales in American markets. “The Israel Diamond Week in New York is a win-win deal for members of both bourses. DDC members, as well as the approximately 100 diamond traders of the IDE, will have free access to a wide range of goods, thereby enhancing their business potential. From past experience we know what the American market likes to buy and sell, so we’re confident that these goods will be available for the upcoming holiday season in the USA.” DDC President Reuven Kaufman says he’s very pleased with the shared initiative. “Since we embarked on this joint venture, business ties between IDE and DDC members have improved tremendously. The synergy between the diamond trade of Israel and New York is immeasurable. Our goals are the same: to create the proper environment where the goods can be traded at the right price. We’re confident that the industry as a whole can gain from the positive momentum which is propelled when our members come together at the show.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
PLEASE NOTE: OUR JHB OFFICE HAS MOVED TO THE NEW PREMISES. JOHANNESBURG 1st Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Bedfordview, Gauteng, South Africa TEL: +27 11 334 4527 • FAX: +27 11 334 2193 EMAIL: infojhb@egl.co.za CAPE TOWN Suite 704, 7th Floor, 80 Strand, Strand Street, Cape Town, South Africa TEL: +27 21 419 8828 • FAX: +27 21 425 8092 EMAIL: infoct@egl.co.za
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NEWS
WDM INTRODUCES RETAILER OPINION POLL The World Diamond Mark (WDM) has released its Retailer Opinion Poll in an effort to determine what services retailer jewellers need most in their stores to advance generic diamond promotion to the consumer public. Among other questions, the poll asks retailers to rank the services they wish to access in the fields of promotion, education, business services and industry co-ordination. “The WDM’s brief is to assist retail jewellers in rekindling consumer desire and confidence in diamonds and diamond jewellery,” says WDM Chairman Alex Popov. “While we believe we have a fairly good grasp of what retail jewellers need, there’s nothing like getting direct and up-to-date input from the business community we’re committed to serving.” The poll can be accessed online at: www.worlddiamondmark.org/poll. “We encourage jewellers to take 10-15 minutes to fill out the form,” says Krisztina Kalman-Schueler, WDM’s Programme Director.
WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT IN JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONE INDUSTRY The empowerment of women in Latin America’s jewellery, diamond and gemstone sectors came under the spotlight at a special seminar, organised as part of the Second Latin American Diamond & Jewellery Week at the World Jewellery Hub in Panama City at the end of June. Some 50 women from multiple countries joined in the round-table discussion. They hailed from Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Peru, Venezuela, Turkey, Romania, Italy and Panama. All are owners of important brands in their home nations. The seminar was moderated by two WJH executives: Ali Pastorini, Senior Vice-President of both the World Jewelry Hub and its resident diamond and gemstone exchange, the World
petent women on our staff, just as we have talented and competent men.” The meeting covered a wide range of topics, all converging on the theme of elevating the role and influence of women in the various sectors that comprise the Latin American jewellery and gemstone industry. It was agreed that, for the benefit of future generations, multi-national co-operation is essential and that more meetings of this sort should be held in the future, to monitor progress, plan strategy and discuss specific programmes. “There’s a tendency on the part of people outside Latin America, and even within the region, to see ourselves as behind the developed world. But today we’re seated in the world’s youngest diamond, gemstone and jewellery exchange, which also happens to be the first and only one of its type in Latin America,” said Pastorini. She referred to a recent study conducted
Jewelry & Diamond Hub, Panama and Judy Meana, Vice-President of the bourse. “We work in a business where the primary end-consumers are women,” said Pastorini in her presentation to the seminar. “Doesn’t it make sense that we should have more women in key positions? Wouldn’t that make the business stronger? ”I’m proud to say that at the World Jewellery Hub, the story is different. Of the three Vice-Presidents in our senior management team, two of us are women,” she continued. “We also have a group of talented and com-
by Mercer, one of the world’s leading human resource consultants, which reviewed gender equality in the workplace. “Right now, according to the study, only 17% of Latin American executives are women, which isn’t a statistic for us to be proud of. But this is the only region in the world that’s likely to approach gender equality at the professional level and above by 2025. If trends continue as they are right now, 44% of all business executives in Latin America are likely to be women nine years from now.” The women also discussed ensuring integrity and transparency in the industry.
MARTIN RAPAPORT RELEASES STATEMENT ON BREXIT
KEIRA KNIGHTLEY NEW FACE OF CHANEL JEWELRY Keira Knightley will front Chanel’s fine jewellery line in the British actress’s latest advertising role for the Paris-based brand, Fashionista reported. Knightley was chosen as the face of the fashion house’s “Coco Crush” collection, a role previously filled by models such as Sigrid Agren and Jac Jagaciak. The star of Bend it Like Beckham and the Pirates of the Caribbean movie series previously fronted Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle perfume and Rouge Coco lipstick. The advertisements were photographed by Mario Testino, a favourite of Chanel. They are scheduled to début later this year. – Rapaport
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“Brexit will not have a sustainable negative impact on polished diamond demand,” said Martin Rapaport of the Rapaport Group in a statement released after the announcement was made. “The EU has not been a dominant diamond consumption centre for many years. While a negative wealth effect due to declining currencies and equity markets will reduce EU and British commercial demand, global investment demand for higher-quality diamonds as a store of value will increase due to global economic and political uncertainty. “Chinese and Indian diamond demand is not likely to decline due to Brexit and is sustainable at current low levels. “We do not expect any significant mediumto long-term negative impact on the US diamond market. While demand may benefit as
a stronger dollar increases purchasing power, a short-term decline in equity prices and wealth may reduce demand during the quiet summer months. Overall, we expect a positive American holiday season this December. ”Brexit will intensify the pressure banks are putting on the diamond trade. Liquidity will continue to be reduced. While Brexit is not expected to significantly reduce overall polished demand, it will indirectly impact trade liquidity, resulting in price volatility. It is vital that rough diamond producers maintain price levels which ensure profitability and liquidity in the manufacturing sector during these uncertain times. Furthermore, producers must increase their marketing spend to ensure generic diamond engagement ring demand from American millennial consumers.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
NEWS
JOAN RIVERS COLLECTION GARNERS US$2 MILLION A Tiffany & Co dog bowl owned by late entertainer Joan Rivers fetched US$13 750 at a recent auction of her collection of jewellery and other items. The silver vessel, engraved with the name “Spike”, her most famous pooch, smashed its upper estimate of US$800. The entire collection sold for a combined US$2,2 million at the Christie’s auction in New York. Rivers – who died in 2014 aged 81 – once said Spike had helped her through a suicidal depression following her husband’s death in 1987. “He jumped into my lap,” she recalled in an interview with The Daily Beast. “I thought: ‘No-one will take care of him if I die.’ He wasn’t a friendly dog to anyone but me. I adored him.” Other items included a Harry Winston diamond and platinum flower brooch, which fetched US$75 000, and a gold, silver, aquamarine and diamond brooch, which was bought for US$35 000. – Rapaport
ISRAEL’S INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND WEEK TO BE HELD 13-16 FEBRUARY 2017 The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) has announced that the next International Diamond Week in Israel (IDWI) would be held from 13-16 February 2017. The event, which has been held in Israel for the past five years, has become an essential feature on the calendar of professional diamond dealers globally. Trading will take place on the bourse floor from Mon-
day to Wednesday, and Thursday will be open for individual meetings, as well as free tours and other activities that IDE will be organising. Israel Diamond Exchange President Yoram Dvash said that he expected the next IDWI to attract members of a good number of diamond bourses affiliated to the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB). “This event began five years ago with the participation of the Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC), then grew to include the Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the Bharat Diamond Bourse of Mumbai. This year we will work in cooperation with the WFDB to bring members of other affiliated bourses, making this a truly ‘interbourse’ event,” he said. Haim Volner, the incoming chairman of IDWI, said that he was confident that the next International Diamond Week would be bigger than previous ones. “IDWI has established a reputation as a prime trading opportunity for diamond dealers. The quantity and variety of goods on offer are enormous, and the costs of participation are minimal. We’ve also upgraded the event with a new format and other new features, which we’ll announce later on,” Volner said.
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TECHNOLOGY
Virtual diamond trading floor for local industry The Diamonds Dealers’ Club of SA (DDCSA) has launched a new website which allows buyers to search for and buy certified diamonds securely online. SAJN talked to Benny Gabay of Diagem Diamonds, who played a pivotal role in the website’s development. What is the aim of this site and what will it offer users? The aim of the site is to facilitate a virtual diamond trading floor for the diamond and jewellery industry in SA in a secure manner. Verified buyers will be able to search for thousands of certified diamonds instantly with a click of a mouse, saving both time and money. How can the site be accessed? By visiting www.ddcsa.co.za and following the easy instructions. Is the site easy to navigate? It was built with the latest technology, which is simple and can be used on all mobile devices. Who is the target audience for the site? Are there any requirements to gain access to it? The site is a business-to-business model for the South African diamond and jewellery trade. After initial registration and verification process on the site, only DDCSA members will be able to upload their stock and make it available online to Jewellery Council of SA [JCSA] members searching for diamonds. Is the site only for South African citizens? Yes – this is strictly a DDCSA incentive for the South African market.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
Is the site based on an international model? There are similar international sites, but our online trading platform is only for the South African trade. The fact that only DDCSA members are able to upload their diamond stock means that the diamonds listed are from reputable sources, giving the buyer peace of mind as to who they’re potentially trading with. Since it’s facilitated by the DDCSA, all rules and regulations of the club apply, which is a world first.
What security measures are in place? The site aims to bring buyers and sellers together. Once a buyer finds a particular diamond which is listed on our site, they’ll have access to information about its owner. They can get in touch by making an online enquiry or by calling directly. All due diligence will have to be done by both parties and once they’re happy to continue with the deal, it will be concluded offline. The website is merely a matchmaker. How are you planning to promote this site? Although it’s only for the South African trade, we believe that such a powerful tool will be an essential part of any diamond trade going forward. We’ll send communiqués to the DDCSA and JCSA members and believe word of mouth will play a vital role in promoting the website.
Who will be responsible for updating the site? The general information that’s part of the site will be updated by the DDCSA. This will cover international trade news and valuable articles. However, the diamond stock will be managed by the DDCSA members themselves on an individual basis.
The fact that only DDCSA members are able to upload their diamond stock means that the diamonds listed are from reputable sources, giving the buyer peace of mind as to who they’re potentially trading with. 13
PEARLS
Pearls: their cultivation, t identification and valuatio Among all gemstones, pearls are the only ones formed within living creatures. They were among the earliest materials used for jewellery and both freshwater and saltwater pearls were highly prized in the East long before the Christian era. In the first of this two-part feature, Dr Petre Prins – in his book, Gem and Jewellery: The South African Handbook – looks at pearl types, unusual varieties and pearl enhancements. FOR CENTURIES, WOMEN HAVE BEEN FASCInated by the various shapes, large variety of colours and rich lore associated with pearls. Their modern-day affordability and versatility have made them an important part of most women’s wardrobes and thus an essential component of a jeweller’s inventory. IDENTIFICATION OF NATURAL, CULTURED AND IMITATION PEARLS • Natural vs cultured pearls One of the most difficult tasks of a jeweller is to distinguish between natural and cultured pearls. Because the surface layer of a natural and a cultured pearl is the same, it is difficult to see the difference if the pearl is not drilled. If drilled, look down the drill hole with a loupe and the thickness of the nacre layer of a cultured pearl can normally be seen. No line separating a bead and the outer nacre layer can be seen in a natural pearl. Candling is another method. An intense light source is used which is completely shielded in a darkened room. A 1 mm hole is made in the shield and the pearl is slowly
rotated in front of the light beam. If the striped nature of the mother-of-pearl bead inside the pearl can be seen, it is possibly a cultured pearl. Beware: the modern Chinese cultured freshwater pearls will not show the internal stripy texture. Specialised instruments, such as a pearl endoscope and an xray diffraction machine, are used by gem laboratories to positively identify natural pearls. An x-radiographic method, similar to the one used by dentists to take pictures of teeth, can be used to take an x-ray picture of complete strands of pearls. The thickness of the nacre layer is very obvious, while imitation pearls appear almost black in these x-ray photographs. • Pearl imitations Pearls have been imitated for centuries. Most pearl imitations are made by first producing a spherical glass or mother-of-pearl bead. The bead is then coated by a substance called “pearl essence” which is made by mixing guanine (extracted from fish scales) with glue and a colouring agent. After a few layers of “essence” have been applied, the bead is polished and dipped in a chemical which hardens and protects the surface from chipping and discolouring. • Identifying imitation (fake) pearls A famous test is done by gently rubbing the pearl on your front teeth. If it feels gritty, it is a cultured pearl; if it feels like plastic on your teeth, it is an imitation. However, this is not conclusive, as some imi-
tations are produced with a gritty surface. Through a jeweller’s loupe the drill hole of a cultured pearl shows the thin, often dark layer of conchiolin that separates the bead nucleus from the nacre. The edge of the drill hole is sharp and well-defined. The presence of blemishes and the specific orient of cultured pearls are diagnostic.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
PEARLS
types, on On the other hand, the drill holes in pearl imitations show the ragged edges of the coating and often no separation between the glass nucleus and coating can be seen. The surface of imitation pearls is normally smooth and without blemishes. Imitation pearls are not as hard as cultured pearls. Pressing a needle on the surface of a fake pearl will leave a small hole, while a cultured pearl will show no needle damage. VALUATION OF PEARLS There are seven factors that are used to value pearls: 1. Size (measured in millimetres). Larger pearls are rarer and thus more expensive. 2. Shape. This can vary from perfectly round (the most expensive) to semi-round, semi baroque to baroque. 3. Lustre is a unique characteristic of pearls. It is the result of light being reflected from a multitude of nacre layers. The thicker and more transparent the nacre layers, the better the lustre (reflection) and the higher the value. 4. Colour. The dominant colour (hue) of a pearl can vary from white to grey and black, from cream to brown to many other “fancy” colours. These basic colours are often en hanced by pink, yellow or greenish over tones. The surface of certain pearls displays a shimmer of rainbow colours. This optical effect is called orient and, if present, en hances the value of the pearl. 5. Surface markings. Very few pearls are per fect, with no blemishes visible to the naked eye. Blemishes can vary from pinpoint in dentations or extrusions to noticeable char acteristics that may cause the nacre layers to lift from the internal nucleus. The size and severity of blemishes will obviously affect the value. 6. Nacre thickness. A thin nacre layer can peel or be damaged by perfume or hairspray, while a thicker layer normally results in a more durable pearl. However, it is not only nacre thickness that determines value, but also the translucency of the nacre layer, which is a prerequisite for a good lustre. 7. Matching. The better a string or a pair of pearls match, the higher their value.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
In 1917, Cartier reportedly traded a milliondollar strand of natural pearls for a sixstoreyed building in Manhattan which became its New York headquarters – proof of the historical value of pearls. Today an 18” strand of fine Akoya pearls (6-6,5 mm) can cost US$650850, while extra-fine qualities may fetch up to US$1 200 per strand. Good-quality, round (7-8 mm) Chinese freshwater pearls can cost US$600-1 000 per string. However, semi-round and circled Chinese freshwater pearls can cost as little as a few hundred dollars per string. Fine-quality, round (10-10,5 mm) Tahitian black pearls can cost up to US$150 each. Larger Tahitians can fetch more than US$600 per pearl. A 10,8-13,6 mm strand of exceptional golden South Sea pearls was sold on auction in 2004 for US$44 000.
Ancient people believed that pearls were formed when an angel’s tears fell into an open oyster. THE WEAR AND CARE OF PEARLS • Lore and romance Ancient people believed that pearls were formed when an angel’s tears fell into an open oyster. A pearl is the symbol of purity, innocence, chastity and of a happy marriage: thus the popularity of pearls on a wedding
day. Pearls are said to increase health and virility. Pakistani men still drink a concoction of powdered pearls and cream: the fact that many of them, well into their 70s, still have all their hair, teeth and four wives may strengthen this belief! • Durability The durability of a pearl is determined by: • the thickness and quality of its nacre layer; • how well this nacre layer is attached to the bead nucleus; and • how well it is cared for. • Care of pearls Keep pearls away from acids, strong cosmetics and hairspray and keep them in a separate box or chamois bag, away from other gems that may scratch them. Never soak pearls in water! It is important that the drill hole remains dry. To clean them, wipe them with a cloth moistened with a little water and soapy foam, or a commercial pearl-cleaner. Depending on how often they are worn, restring them every 18 months. • Styling Pearls are the accepted birthstone for June and are versatile fashion items that never date. They can be worn for business or informal occasions, yet they have the elegance to enhance an evening look. Although the length of string and the type of pearl are often dictated by the fashion of the day, the jeweller should be aware that certain face types and skin tones are complemented by the correct selection of pearl jewellery. For instance, chokers look good on long, slender necks, but a short, chubby neck needs a graduated string or several long strands. Dark skins are complemented by gold or champagne colours, while pale skins need white-pinks or creamy pinks. Reddish skin, blonde and brunette hair match well with rose to creamy-rose coloured pearls.
About the author After two years’ post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as Senior Lector in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, in 1982 Dr Petre Prins, PhD (geochemistry) MBA, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town, SA.
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BRAND HISTORY
The pursuit of excellence Japanese brand Seiko, with a background of 124 years of watchmaking, has indisputably earned its place in the history of this art and has long been renowned for its master of technology. IN A NECK-AND-NECK RACE WITH THE SWISS to be the first to market a quartz watch, Seiko won by a short head. It sold this on 25 December 1969, with Switzerland lagging a year behind. The ensuing period has become known as the Quartz Watch Revolution and it had a profound effect on watch manufacture of the future. The brand, beloved by watch collectors, represents 50 years of dedication. Even before that momentous achievement, Seiko relentlessly strove for perfection – and Grand Seiko was born. Grand Seiko is the name given to its mechanical products, which first saw the light of day in 1960. This marked the beginning of the brand’s pursuit of the “ideal” watch with a new standard of excellence. However, mechanics are not what have made Grand Seiko famous – its modern equivalents are even better than the originals. The Japanese manufacturer was determined to create nothing less than the best luxury watch in the world – hardly a modest ambition. This lofty aspiration included a standard of precision, legibility and reliability
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
higher than any other brand. It required watchmaking skills from micro-engineering to final polishing for this high-grade mechanical timepiece Such standards were more demanding than those set by the Swiss chronometer tests (COSC) and are set to the company’s own Grand Seiko standard. Mechanical watches came close to extinction during the first 15 years of quartz watch product and output of Grand Seiko declined. Quartz watches were accurate and reliable and were popular in the 1970s and early 1980s. Japan – and Switzerland – devoted all their efforts to producing quartz models. Then, as mechanical timepieces slowly returned to favour, the reputation of Grand Seiko grew and the demand for them increased. 1988 saw the launch of the second generation of Grand Seiko, but sadly, it did not exactly set the world on fire. However, a new model in 1993 with a bold, sharp style was more success-
The Japanese manufacturer was determined to create nothing less than the best luxury watch in the world. ful. Ten years elapsed before the brand’s launch of a new range of these watches – with the addition of a new calibre which was designed to achieve the necessary accuracy and attention given to the finish of the movement. During the second half of the 1990s, with the benefit of computer technology, Grand Seiko was brought back to life. Today the brand’s designs are divided into three major categories, according to the movement: these are quartz, spring drive and mechanical. The second of these began in 1999, when Seiko introduced a revolutionary micromechantronic function – a concept which combines the best features of mechanical and quartz technologies, which it named “spring drive”. Earlier this year the brand introduced a new sports watch collection – the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition on an extra-long strap. Two of the chronograph versions were launched in June and the other two GMT versions in July. Accompanying each watch is an additional regular-length strap as a special gift. This marks a step forward for the brand. The new collection of watches combines the values of Grand Seiko and the vital attributes of all the finest sports watches. It is a daring edition, uniting Seiko’s heritage with a modern aesthetic.
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DID YOU KNOW?
Interesting facts 1
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When the world’s largest diamond was discovered in South Africa, it was shipped to England on a steamboat under heavy security. But that was a diversion and the real stone was sent in a plain box via post.
The Hope Diamond has only left the Smithsonian four times since it was donated in 1958.
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Howard Hughes, a wealthy industrialist and film producer, proposed to Elizabeth Taylor by landing a helicopter and sprinkling diamonds around her. Taylor declined the proposal.
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The pearls that adorned the Queen’s neck on her wedding day are thought to be the oldest British royal jewellery that’s still worn today. The pearls are actually two separate necklaces which are always worn together, and together they have an estimated value of $6 million.
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In 1885 Russian Czar Alexander III had jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé make a jewelled Easter egg for his wife. She was so pleased with the egg that Czar Alexander III commissioned Fabergé to make it a yearly tradition, with more eggs handcrafted every Easter.
Actress Joan Crawford was so keen on sapphires that the press called them “Joan Blue” after her. She was also the owner of a 70ct star sapphire engagement ring and a 72ct emerald-cut sapphire, which she often wore together on the same finger.
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A vintage engagement ring is one that is made in the style of a past era. This is different from an antique engagement ring, which is one that is more than 50 years old.
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Diamonds come in all colours of the rainbow. A diamond's colour changes due to the chemical composition when the stone is formed.
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Tourmalines are gems with an incomparable variety of colours. According to an old Egyptian legend, tourmaline passed over a rainbow during its journey down to the centre of the earth. In doing so, it assumed all the colours of the rainbow.
• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
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JEWELLEX AFRICA 2016
It’s all about networking Cape Precious Metals (CPM) is one of the country’s leading refineries, specialising in recycling of all precious metals, including gold, silver, platinum and palladiumis. Sharon Eades, owner and managing director, tells SAJN why she has personally attended Jewellex Africa for the past 35 years. How long have you been a part of the jewellery industry in South Africa? For 37 years now. I worked for another refiner for 15 years before opening CPM 22 years ago. What do you enjoy most about working in the industry? Definitely the people – everyone I work with at CPM as well as our clients and suppliers. There are some interesting characters in our industry. I believe that once you’ve become a part of this industry, you’re in it forever. I have so much fun doing business as the people are easy to relate to and once you gain the clients’ trust
– especially with refining and quality products – your relationship is cemented. What’s Cape Precious Metal’s main focus in business and what distinguishes you from other refineries in South Africa? CPM’s core business is servicing the manufacturing jewellery industry – both refining and supplying a full range of products from tools and findings to quality metal alloys, plate, wire and solders. We pride ourselves in service delivery and product knowledge. Has the company changed since it first started operating? When CPM was established in 1994 we had four staff members, today we have 78. We had a small office in Cape Town, bought our products from other metal suppliers, like Perkins Metals and Unioro, and sent our refining work to Perkins Metals. We have since purchased both those companies. We now have branches in Kwa-Zulu Natal, Port Elizabeth and Johannesburg. Our staff members are qualified, most of who have been with the company for more
than ten years. Two of our factory staff members as well as Malcolm, our regional manager for Kwa-Zulu Natal and Johannesburg, have been with CPM for 21 years now. Why do you believe shows like Jewellex Africa are so vital? For CPM it’s about networking with the industry – keeping abreast with change and mingling with our clients and fellow refineries. How many times has CPM exhibited at Jewellex? I have personally visited Jewellex for the past 35 years. In 2008 we were visiting the show and I was approached by the Jewellery Council to take a stand the next year. We took a small stand and were very surprised at the support and mileage we gained. Why did CPM decide to attend Jewellex again this year? We believe that if you snooze you lose. I can’t imagine not being a part of this annual event and not participating in the industry activities and interacting with everyone who attends it. What would an exhibitor/visitor gain from attending Jewellex Africa? Exhibitors get to showcase their companies and introduce staff to clients. Staff talk to clients on the phone on a regular basis but meeting them in person is far more beneficial for future business development.
In 2008 we were visiting the show and I was approached by the Jewellery Council to take a stand the next year. We took a small stand and were very surprised at the support and mileage we gained. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
New pilot’s watches offer choices Introduced this year by IWC was a limited edition of 250 pieces – the so-called World Literature Watch named “Le Petit Prince”, inspired by writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s little prince. It is known as the Spitfire in honour of its namesake, the legendary singleengine fighter plane (De SaintExupéry was a fighter pilot who flew one during World War II and in the book, he makes an emergency landing in the desert, where he encounters the little prince). It also features a 46 mm perpetual-calendar digital date, including months and leap years. It has a Spitfireshaped rotor visible through the sapphire case-back. The 2016 version of this popular model offers a look at the movement and satin on the middle case, as well as on the matching bracelet. The dial has a different layout, with a single day and date window at 3 o’clock. It is also available with a new black calfskin strap which is Italianmade, while the case-back has an engrav-
New watch brand has universal appeal A newcomer to the watch scene in SA has captured attention around the world. Inspired by Japanese designs and styling, Superdry watches, despite their relative infancy, have appeal for sportsmen and women with a sense of style: iconic former footballer David Beckham has been seen wearing one. The cases of the watches range from the classic round shape with a traditional clock look to square with stylish graphics, to “no numbers”. The women’s styles are a scaled-down version of the men’s so as to fit their slimmer wrists. The success of the brand is due not only to its Japanese/ American style, but also to the wide array of colours offered. These include basic black and silver and convey a sense of fun and boldness, which add to their appeal. Hot pink with a black face, sky blue, orange, pale green and black with an
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
ing of an airplane. This model is identified by the reference “Big Pilot 5009”. The World Literature Watch, as IWC has named its limited edition of 250 pieces, has a spectacular case-back. Through the sapphire glass, the little prince is visible standing on his planet. The automatic movement has a power reserve of seven days. Two other versions honour the blue dial of the little prince. One is the 43 mm chronograph with day/date, which has a simple single date window, in contrast to earlier models that had a triple window showing the present day, the next day and the dates. The second version is the double chronograph fitted with a calfskin strap. A novelty this year is the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint-Exupéry” of steel with a tobacco-brown dial featuring distinctive Arabic hour markers. The latter are fitted on all Saint-Exupéry and Double Chronograph Editions.
These are limited to 750 and 1 000 respectively. IWC, which pioneered the use of ceramic in 1986, has used this material on the Top Gun Miramar edition. This model, with its military look, has a 44 mm case diameter, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement and a simple display on the anthracite dial with a combined hour and minute counter that can be read like the time of day. It is simple and convenient. The aim is to provide optimum legibility of the seconds and minutes. A simple twist to show the world timer, a rotating bezel and IWC’s new-generation rotating movement which cannot inadvertently be moved are other details. The watch is presented on a black or green calfskin strap.
orange face are other colourful choices. There are watches with multi-dial faces, stopwatches and date windows, and others which are extra-wide, making them popular among athletes. A trendy, sports-styled, mainly multi-functional watch is named Tokyo Multi and is new this season. The sub-dial displays day, date and seconds for precision time-keeping and is finished with a transparent, smoky plastic case. It is also available with a dark blue silicone strap. Campus is a premium take on the Superdry Urban model. Its dial features a bold pink printed logo along the top of the dark grey strap and embossed “Superdry” underneath. It is a fresh and contemporary design with a raised logo on the side of a plastic case. The fine blue numbers are outlined on the dial and the watch is completed with a soft, thick silicone strap. Tokyo Slimmer is a feminine, very original style with Swarovski fabric on the dial and IP rose gold lettering adding chic and sophistication.
Like all Tokyo models, it has a soft, chunky blue silicone strap – an iconic display of brand and symbols and a fusion of modern materials. It is also available in black or white silicone strap. Oxford is an exciting new family presenting an eye-catching, three-colour design with a Superdry script vintage logo prominent against the white dial. The Oxford adds a traditional edge to the fashionable collection, featuring bold silver hour markers with matching silver hands. Teamed with a navy and red nylon striped strap and tan leather tips, this is an ideal accessory for smart-casual daywear. It is also available with navy and grey or black and grey striped straps. Superdry is recognised as a trendy clothing and accessories company and its watches have added to its growing reputation. The company has been in existence since 2003 and local distributor CJR Gifts believes it is here to stay. “Superdry is a premium lifestyle with a broad inspirational target audience of both sexes. Its watches are of high quality, with attention to detail and the prices are accessible,” says CJR Gifts’ Marketing Manager, Natalie Davis.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Historical watch at Philip Zetler Jewellers Philip Zetler Jewellers, situated in the heart of Cape Town and famous for the 100-year-old, square-faced Smith’s clock affixed to its front, is currently home to the original timepiece of Thomas Major Cullinan, owner and finder of the Cullinan Diamond.
Dean Herrick, the great-grandson of Cullinan, who owned this historic steel Omega Speedmaster with diamond bezel, presented the watch to Philip Zetler Jewellers. “My greatgrandfather converted it from a fob watch to its present state,” says Herrick. “The watch is in working order and I believe is circa 1920-30. It has a gold mark – HP 71848 – on the inside of the lid and is inscribed with ‘TMC’ for Thomas Major Cullinan on the back.” Cullinan was born in the Eastern Cape in 1862 to an Irish father and an English mother. In 1887 he and his wife Annie moved to Johannesburg, where he made a name for himself as a builder. He was awarded the contract to build the Rand Club in Johannesburg, among other prestigious buildings. He and Annie had 10 children and built the first brick house in Parktown, called “The
View”. Cullinan bought the Premier Mine outside Pretoria in 1902. By 1998, the mine had yielded 120 million carats, including the historic Cullinan Diamond (3 106ct uncut), which was found in 1905. Cullinan was knighted in 1910, served in World War I and was awarded the DSO in 1916. He also served in the Union Parliament. He died in 1936 at the age of 70.
Grande Seconde Off-Centered Onyx by Pierre Jaquet-Droz Imagined in the 18th century by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the Grande Seconde has never ceased to reinvent itself, balancing a sense of history with modern elegance. For this supremely sober interpretation, the craftsmen at Jaquet Droz have revisited the figure “8” aesthetic by offsetting the seconds and, at the same time, enveloping the two interlocking rings in an air of mystery. Presented for the first time in a 43 mm steel case, the Grande Seconde Off-Centered amplifies the
Thirty-seven time zones for world travellers Luxury Geneva watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin, a brand of the Richemont Group, is considered one of the “holy trinity” of Swiss watches, alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Its newest timepiece has a world time display of 37 time zones and is directed at international travellers. Housed in a 43,5 mm case is the selfwinding movement, which was designed and created in-house; it has a 22ct gold oscillating weight, a frequency of 28 800 vibrations per hour and a 40-hour power reserve. The universal symbol of a wind rose, which indicates the cardinal points related to weather functions (so important to travellers),
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intensity of black with an onyx dial that has been painstakingly cut and polished, in the grand tradition of mineral dials by Jaquet Droz. Like darts of light across a liquid surface, it creates a voluptuous play of brilliance. Equally captivating is the extraordinary sense of aesthetic in this mechanical timepiece, whose point of equilibrium extends onto the case with the discreet winding crown, also off-centred.
is adorned with a sand-blasted, polished and highly-grained finish. All the indications are powered by its mechanism and are easily adjusted via the crown. The craftsmanship of this world time model, which bears the hallmark of Geneva, extends to its bracelet, which features an easyto-fit system and an ingenious interchangeable system. This and the folding clasp can be switched and secured without any tools, yet provide the same hold as on any traditional fixed bracelet. According to Vacheron Constantin’s philosophy, the world is either blue, silver-toned or brown for dial variations and this one displays the 37 time zones which are visible at a single glance and casually elegant. The display map depicts three continents – enhanced by a sunburst satinfinish – and the ocean in velvet alongside has
a translucent, lacquered disc with the names of three cities. A third sapphire disc is laid over the cities’ map, providing day/night distinctions by means of subtly graded smoky tints which are synchronised with the 24hour disc. A translucent, lacquered, velvet-finished outer ring serves to indicate the hours. In 2007 the brand introduced the Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” range of timepieces, featuring miniature reproductions of primitive art masks, 12 of which were selected from a private museum collection. And in 2015 – the manufacture’s 20th anniversary year – Vacheron Constantin revealed the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, which took three watchmakers eight years to build. The 57-complication marvel was created at the request of a client and was priced between $8 million and $29 million.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Spotlight on a new model Complicated elements in a timepiece make them something special, as is the case with Frédérique Constant’s Slimline Automatic. The newest creation of the brand epitomises timeless chic, with the “accessible luxury” that imparts its spirit. This new model combines modernity and tradition. It is housed in a sleek, round case of 40 mm diameter which takes into account contemporary preferences and refined lines that impart an air of sophistication in every detail. The
white dial is embellished with a circle of black Roman numeral indices and a square sports window which emphasises the masculine character of the model, while a square date window at 3 o’clock offers optimum readability. There is a choice of a stainless steel or rose gold-plated case. The in-house Frédérique Constant movement has 25 jewels and oscillates at 28 800 beats per hour, with a 42-hour power reserve.
Functions are hours, minutes and date. The case-back is covered by a sapphire crystal glass which enables the wearer to admire the movement of the timepiece and is engraved with the Frédérique Constant name and the individual number of the watch, ensuring its authenticity. The watch is mounted on a leather strap with a pin buckle and matches the colours of the case – black for the stainless steel model and chocolate brown for the rose gold-plated version.
A feminine touch from Fendi Inspired by the furry creatures that invaded the fashion world, fashion brand Fendi has produced a numbered Memento Fendi Bugs limited edition of 50 pieces. The 34 mm stainless steel model is adorned with a total of 382 diamonds, giving it a feminine touch. The dial is encrusted with 286 stones and at its centre, the pupils of somewhat mischievous, angrylooking eyes are depicted by two black diamonds. The watch has a quartz movement and func-
tions are hours, minutes and seconds. The bezel and lugs are set with 96 diamonds and the watch is mounted on a bracelet of stainless steel which has a row of white ceramic links, giving it a distinctive character. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and the watch is water-resistant from 30-100 m. An amusing detail is that when the second hand crosses paths with the minute hand, they briefly unite to form the Fendi logo.
Celebrating an anniversary The Bulgari watch brand celebrated its 40th anniversary last year with a watch that will doubtless become a collector’s item. It represents a combination of Italian design and Swiss watchmaking. The designer is Italian-born Fabrizio Bonanassa and the watches are made at Bulgari’s headquarters at Neuchâtel. The movements are made in Le Sentier, while the dials are made in La Chaux-de-Fonds. These models, named the Bulgari Roma Tourbillon Finissimo, were made in three variations in limited editions of 100 pieces. The first variation is yellow gold, symbolising the brand’s return to its origins, the second variation is pink gold with an opaline dial and the third variation has a black lacquer dial. The Bulgari tourbillon movement is just
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016
1,95 mm thick, which is claimed to be a world record for a flying tourbillon without a bridge. It is driven by a high-performance mechanical self-winding, 26-jewel movement which beats at 28 800 vibrations per hour and is adorned with decorative elements and Cores de Genève. It has a 52-hour power reserve. This is an iconic, refined timepiece – a Grande Complication model, yet remarkably slender, featuring an ingenious combination of two of the most delicate watchmaking complications: extreme finesse and the tourbillon. The latter is the small revolving carriage which houses the escapement and balance wheel, designed to release the movement from the grip of gravity by counter-balancing its resultant disturbance and enhancing the isochronism of the balance wheel.
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LITTLE GEMS
SOME RED SPINELS ARE AMONG THE MOST historic gemstones – like the Black Prince’s Ruby. It is a large, irregular cabochon stone weighing 1 170ct, set above the Cullinan II at the front of King George V of England’s Imperial State crown, which is among the oldest of the British Crown Jewels. It dates back to 1367, when it was given to Edward of Woodstock – the “Black Prince” – and is today valued at £720 885. But it is not a ruby at all. Until 1783, all red gemstones were referred to as rubies or “balas rubies”, derived from Balascia, the ancient name for a region in central Asia. It was only then that red spinels were differentiated from rubies and it is believed that this particular stone might have originated from the historic ruby mines in present-day Tajikistan. The stone was thought to have been in the possession of a Moorish prince of Granada. A revolt was successfully countered, with the assistance of the “Black Prince”, who demanded the “ruby” in exchange for his services. It is assumed he took it back to England. But I have digressed. Spinels are found in the gemstone-bearing gravel of Sri Lanka and in a province of modern-day Afghanistan. They are common in the uppermost earth’s mantle and have a vitreous to dull lustre. Spinels are stones of various colours, although red ones are the most common. Carnelial (sometimes known as “carnelian”) is the most popular stone in the red spinel range. Carnelian and Said are varieties of chalcedony, the latter slightly different and somewhat harder and darker – a semi-precious stone of a uniform red-brown. Carnelian is a brownish-red mineral; both are coloured by impurities of iron oxide. Carnelian was recovered in Crete from the Bronze Age and was mainly used in the decorative arts. Said was used in Roman times to make engraved signet rings for imprinting a seal with wax, including Assyrian cylinder seals, and were also used to engrave Egyptian and Phoenician scarabs and early Greek and Etruscan gems. My own preference for a red-tinted, semiprecious stone is garnet, which is best known for its deep red, almost burgundy shade. Most of my garnet jewellery is in this darker hue. The name comes from the old French “grenat” and the stone is often mistaken for a ruby, since it also occurs in deep red and all the colours of the rainbow. Garnets take their colour from the red rocks in the areas in which they are found. They are formed under extremely high temperatures and pressure. The Mozambique variety is
The colours of red
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In Eastern cultures such as China, red is the colour of good luck. If red is your favourite colour, selecting a gemstone for a piece of jewellery offers many options. Red gemstones draw attention to the wearer. Of course, rubies range from blood red to pinks, but not everyone can afford them. However, there are a number of more affordable options. Alice Weil looks at some of them. known for its wonderful red colours which do not become apparent until the rough has been cut and polished, but a flawless, large, clear garnet is difficult to find. It is one of the few stones which remain untreated. Evidence of its durability is confirmed by the fact that a garnet necklace was found in a young man’s grave dating back to 3000 BC. A red beryl is a species of very rare red gemstone. Naturally colourless, it is tinted by the presence of other minerals. Pezzottaites are similar to red beryls, but contain lithium. They have only recently been discovered in Madagascar and Afghanistan, where they come in raspberry red and orange shades. Also extremely rare are specimens of red fire opal, most of which emanate from Mexico. Recently discovered is andesine, of which the red rocks are reportedly enhanced, making its existence somewhat controversial. Zircons are diamond-like stones which are also found in various colours, including red. These varietals are known as hyacinths. There
are real red diamonds, but these are extremely rare precious stones and very expensive. The colours of diamonds, including the red variety, are due to various impurities in the surrounding rocks. Nature has created tourmaline in many colours. A particularly beautiful gemstone is red rubelite tourmaline, which was known to the ancients of the Mediterranean area. It requires two special ingredients to achieve its colour, which can alter in different light conditions, whether daylight or artificial light. Usually it is a bold ruby-red, its name derived from the Latin “rubelius”, which means “reddish”, but it can vary from pink to shocking pink and red. However, only a few of these stones can be called rubelite or red tourmalines. They were originally brought into Europe by Dutch traders and today they are found on many continents, but fine crystal specimens are rare and can be quite expensive. Their popularity in modern times began in 1876, when a gemmologist and jeweller sold tourmaline stoles to Tiffany and Co in New York.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2016