SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • August 2017

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Jewellery News AUGUST 2017

SA

Marketing: a face behind a brand Evolution of the pilot’s watch What’s your niche?

The Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy in Pretoria • Email address: svkearns@thaiembassy.co.za

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Members of:

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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 7. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

• CPM to sponsor cocktail function at this year’s Jewellex Africa

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• Diamond trading drives Botswana growth • “Green Jewellery” theme for VicenzaOro September 2017

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• World’s largest diamond ship sets sail in Namibia

Designer: Joanne Brook

• Start-Up Nation at Israel Diamond Exchange

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

16. MARKETING A face behind a brand

19. BRAND HISTORY Evolution of the pilot's watch

• Jewellery Council of SA Chairman’s Fund celebrates 10 years • Dubai Conference set for October

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

21. SCENE AROUND

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

Richline SA’s Winter Blanket Drive

Printing: Typo

23. JEWELLERY DESIGN Embracing personalisation

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

15. JEWELLERY

25. RETAIL CORNER

The impact of the EU’s new conflict minerals legislation on the jewellery trade

What’s your niche?

2 7. BRAND MANAGEMENT • New versions from a centuries old watchmaker • Making a statement

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

4

28. LITTLE GEMS Spinel – an under-rated gemstone

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The industry's only trade journal

Jewellery News AUGUST 2017

SA

On the cover The Call for Entry for the fourth edition of the PPC Imaginarium Awards has officially opened and the competition is inviting entries for its 2018 round.

Entries will be available at Jewellex Africa at the SAJN stand. For more information,

Marketing: a face behind a brand

visit the website: www.ppcimaginarium.co.za.

Evolution of the pilot’s watch What’s your niche?

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

JEWELLEX AFRICA

2 0 17

Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition 8-10 OCTOBER 2017 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, SANDTON, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

DIAMOND TRADING DRIVES BOTSWANA GROWTH Botswana’s gross domestic product (GDP) grew 4,3% in 2016, mainly due to an improvement in the nation’s diamond trade, the Bank of Botswana said recently.

An increase in wholesale activity by diamond companies operating in Botswana, such as De Beers’ Global Sightholder Sales (GSS) and the state-owned Okavango Diamond Company, drove the nation’s economic growth, explained Keith Jefferis, Managing Director of local economic consultancy firm Econsult and a former Deputy-Governor of the bank.

De Beers’ 2016 rough sales – the vast majority of which came from GSS – jumped 37% to

US$5,6 billion, while Okavango’s sales leaped 80% to US$546,5 million.

Overall growth in the non-mining sector, including trading of rough diamonds, was 5,5% for the year, the bank said. Meanwhile, the contraction in the nation’s mining output slowed to 3,7% from 19,6% in 2015. – Rapaport

WORLD’S LARGEST DIAMOND SHIP SETS SAIL IN NAMIBIA De Beers recently launched the world’s largest diamond exploration ship, as it looks to Namibian waters to maintain production levels.

The mv SS Nujoma cost US$157 million to build and will allow Debmarine Namibia, De Beers’ joint venture with the Namibian government, to secure the country's diamond supply “well into the future”, the miner said in a statement. The ship will enable Debmarine to maintain its current annual rough diamond production rate of 1,2 million carats until 2035, Reuters reported.

Of Debmarine’s six ships, the mv SS Nujoma is the first to be dedicated to exploration and sampling. The vessel uses technologies that enable it to take larger samples than any other and at a faster rate, De Beers said. The craft will mine diamonds at around 120-140 m below sea level at double the speed of its predecessor.

Marine diamonds are generally more valuable than land-based stones because lowerquality gems are washed away by waves, Reuters said.

“Offshore diamond mining is becoming increasingly important in meeting global demand for diamonds, as many of the major onshore deposits have now been discovered,” said De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver. “The mv SS Nujoma will allow even more of Namibia’s high-quality offshore diamonds to be discovered and mined, ensuring a strong future for Namibia’s diamond industry, as well as the global diamond market.”

The 12 000-tonne ship, 113 m long, has created 140 jobs, the vast majority of which have been filled by Namibians. It has a crew of 80 and a helicopter deck suitable for Sikorsky S61s.

The vessel is named for Sam Nujoma, Namibia’s first President. – Rapaport

DUBAI CONFERENCE SET FOR OCTOBER The Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE) will host its biennial diamond conference on 16-17 October this year and expects to attract attendees from across the industry.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

The Dubai Diamond Conference 2017, which focuses on the theme of “shaping the future of an interconnected marketplace”, will help companies build relationships with governments of diamond-producing and consuming countries, says the exchange. Delegates will include traders, financial professionals and renowned jewellers.

“Dubai has evolved rapidly as one of the world’s leading trading centres for rough diamonds and we look forward to welcoming all market participants to the conference,” says Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, of which the DDE is a member. – Rapaport

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START-UP NATION AT ISRAEL DIAMOND EXCHANGE The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) joins the “Start-Up Nation” with the opening of the Diamond Tech Innovation Centre – a technological incubator for Israeli and international diamondrelated start-ups. Diamond Tech will provide a home and financial support for start-ups that are in the initial stages of development.

Through this initiative, the IDE plans to promote new technologies for diamonds in the broadest sense, reaching beyond gems and jewellery. This includes the use of diamonds in industrial platforms, robotics, semiconductors, medical and space technology, as well as software, finance, and B2B and B2C marketing platforms.

In establishing the Innovation Centre, the IDE is partnering with Sarine, the Israeli-based world leader in developing technologies for the diamond industry and the Hennig Diamond group, which has an international investment arm specialising in diamond technologies. The Technion-Israel Institute of Technology has signed on as a strategic partner for research and development. The Innovation Centre is currently applying for official recognition and support from the Israel Innovation Authority, which funds the establishment of new technological centres and start-ups.

Serving as advisors to the project are Ernst & Young Israel, which specialises in the establishment of technological incubators and legal firm Amit, Pollak, Matalon & Co, which works extensively in pairing Israeli technology companies and international investment funds.

CPM TO SPONSOR COCKTAIL FUNCTION AT JEWELLEX AFRICA Leading local refinery Cape Precious Metals will be sponsoring the cocktail function at this year’s Jewellex Africa. The function will be held at 6pm for 6.30pm on Monday, 9 October at the Sandton Convention Centre.

There will be no dress code.

“The Jewellex cocktail function is a great platform for members of the industry to get to know each other better and to network in an informal environment,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA. Tickets for the evening will soon be available.

Jewellex Africa is Africa’s premier jewellery and watch exhibition and will be held from 8-10 October at the Sandton Convention Centre.

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082 900 8000 mervyn@jewellersdisputesolutions.co.za PGDip. Dispute Settlement Stellenbosch University Business School TO SUBSCRIBE: email subscriptions@isikhova.co.za and put “Subscribe Biz-News” in the subject line.

TO ADVERTISE: contact Ian on adsales@isikhova.co.za or Trivern on sales@isikhova.co.za.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

JCSA CHAIRMAN’S FUND CELEBRATES 10 YEARS Established by Chris van Rensburg, the 2007 Chairman of the JCSA, the original idea of the Chairman’s Fund was to donate Van Rensburg’s Chairman’s remuneration – R2 000 per board meeting – to the fund. In addition, 25% of the board’s unclaimed fees for travel expenses would go into the fund.

“The purpose of the fund is to contribute to transformation and the integration of technology and design in the jewellery industry by acknowledging excellence in jewellery design. It’s aimed at supporting selected training initiatives focused on developing capacity to utilise technology in the production of jewellery,” explains Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. To date, in addition to the contribution from the board, the Chairman’s Fund has received contributions from companies such as Cape Precious Metals and American Swiss.

Since its inception, funds have been utilised for computer-aided design (CAD) for a jewellery training programme for 30 previously disadvantaged individuals in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Limpopo and Cape Town, as well as sponsorship of a CAD software package to winners of various industry competitions such as the AngloGold Auditions, the Pravda Vodka Royal Collection Jewellery Design Competition and the Wax to the Max Jewellery Design Competition. It has also been used to sponsor tools and equipment vouchers to winners of the Thuthuka Jewellery Design Competition.

“Unfortunately, no outside contributions

have been received towards the Chairman’s Fund in the past three years, so we were therefore only able to contribute to very few valuable causes within the industry,” says Lloyd.

“We’d therefore like to remind the industry of this worthy initiative and invite it to contribute.”

Since the JCSA is registered as a non-profit company, in terms of Section 18A, taxpayers are able to make a deduction from their taxable income when they make donations to NPOs. The donation can either be in cash or kind, but not in the form of a service and if it exceeds 10% of the taxpayer’s taxable income, the excess amount will not qualify for a tax deduction.

“Donors, especially corporate ones, prefer to make donations to NPOs with section 18A status as the value of that donation can be deducted from their taxable income,” explains Lloyd. “The NPO which receives the donation issues an 18A receipt to the donor. Donors can then claim the tax deduction from SARS by attaching the receipt to their tax returns.”

(Above): Chris van Rensburg, JCSA Chairman.

“GREEN JEWELLERY” THEME FOR VICENZAORO SEPTEMBER 2017 The International Jewellery Exhibition VicenzaOro, organised by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), has announced that the new September 2017 edition will be held from 23-27 September.

Following the 2017 leading theme, linked to corporate social responsibility in the goldsmith and jewellery sector, the fil rouge for VicenzaOro September 2017 will be “Green Jewellery”, corporate responsibility and the sourcing policies of all the materials employed in the sector.

“The IEG thus renews its commitment to stand up for significant issues in support of traceability, ethical trade and environmental protection, as well as the right to health and safety in the jewellery chain,” the group stated.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

VicenzaOro September 2017 confirms its international scope by involving over 1 500 brands of exhibiting firms from 36 countries all over the world and from the main Italian goldsmith areas, as well as visitors, buyers, journalists, opinion leaders and trendsetters of foreign key markets. VicenzaOro will also host 500 choice buyers coming from the main reference markets, as well as a delegation of 150 Italian retailers by Federpreziosi, the national federation of goldsmith, jewellery, silversmith and clockmaker firms. Moreover, over 800 gold buyers, chosen from the top players in the European and international market, will benefit from exclusive services devoted to them during the show.

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Contact: Aroon Bhoora Tel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657 aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za • www.piyuvejewellers.co.za

IAN STARNES JOINS THE SAJN TEAM SA Jewellery News has welcomed Ian Starnes as its new Senior Marketing Manager. as its new Advertising Sales Executive. Ian has “It’s with sadness that we say goodbye worked in the publishing industry to Linda, who’s been an invaluas a sales representative for more able member of the team and we than 20 years and therefore has a wish her a bright and prosperous thorough understanding of the diffuture,” says Andrew Meyer, pubferent aspects of advertising sales. lisher of SA Jewellery News. “We’re “I really look forward to learnvery fortunate to have found ing more about the diamond and Ian, who comes with a wealth of jewellery industry in SA. I’m also experience. I have no doubt that very excited to help clients dehe’ll help take our clients’ busivelop and grow their businesses nesses to great heights.” through the media platforms at (Above): Ian Starnes, SA Ian will sell advertising space Jewellery News Sales Executive.

Isikhova,” he says. on SA Jewellery News, Jewellery He will be taking over the reins from Linda Biz-News, African Odyssey, Jewellex Today Stock, who is joining a consumer publication and Jewellery Biz-News Connect.

RICHEMONT WATCHMAKING HEAD JOINS BREITLING Timepiece brand Breitling has hired Richemont’s watchmaking chief Georges Kern as CEO. Kern will focus on developing Breitling’s digital and retail operations, as well as growing the brand in Asian markets, Breitling said in a recent statement.

Kern will leave Richemont with immediate effect and will step down from the Senior Executive Committee and Management Committee. The Geneva-based retailer had named him Head of Watchmaking, Marketing & Digital in November last year. He was previously CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, one of Richemont’s watch-

making brands, from 2002-2016.

“Georges has been offered an interesting opportunity to become an entrepreneur,” says Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert. “He’s had a very successful career at IWC Schaffhausen and we wish him well.”

Breitling was acquired by private equity group CVC Capital Partners in April. – Rapaport

VOD DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW SET FOR NOVEMBER The VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show, for trade and private visitors, will take place from 15-18 November at the Dubai World Trade Centre.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

Show organisers recently announced that the VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show has extended its partnership with the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre.

“The show will provide a great opportunity for our business customers and retailers to sample and gauge emerging trends, as well as develop innovative solutions to grow in the future,” says Franco Bosoni, DMCC’s Director: Innovation Hub. “It’s the perfect place to promote what both Dubai and DMCC are doing on a global level and we can help local and international market participants connect at the same time.”

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MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN amongst industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

17.5% UP

RETAILERS

0

0 %

100 %

% SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

0

% SAME

100 % DOWN 7%

0% UP

0 % 0

% SAME

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

1.1%

90.6%

7.5%

0 % Foot traffic

Watch sales down by 33%

MANUFACTURERS

6% UP

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

25 % 75 %

DOWN 9%

General sales compared with last year this time

0,5ct

0 % Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

0% UP

0 % Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

DOWN 58%

0% UP

Best-selling diamond size

0

% SAME

DIAMOND DEALERS

100 %

JUNE 2017 VS JUNE 2016

50

% SAME

50 % DOWN 53%

75

% SAME

25 % DOWN 70%

(Above): The above illustrates year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

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JEWELLERY

Act, which also regulates the 3Ts and gold.

While the legislation has already been approved, the EU lawmakers provided a fouryear phase-in period, which gives companies until 1 January 2021 to adopt the due diligence and other procedures that are part of its requirements. The EU also ruled that the regulation will apply to all metal and mineral importers whose annual import volumes are above a threshold amount, with the threshold set so at least 95% of the total imported volumes into the region of each metal and mineral will be subject to the regulations. This means that companies only importing small amounts of gold will be exempted from the provisions of the legislation, although it is advised that all companies become familiar with its requirements.

According to the new law, European importers of gold above the threshold will need to apply due diligence steps that must be consistent with a due diligence scheme that is approved by the European Commission.

That could include the chain of custody standards of the Responsible Jewellery Council or the London Bullion Market Association.

The seminar in Vicenza will feature a blueribbon panel of expert speakers, representing the European Union, the European precious metals industry, industry standards-setting and monitoring organisations. Presentation will be made in English, and a simultaneous translation into Italian will be provided.

“This is an extremely important seminar,” said Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO. “The new EU regulations are going to affect a substantial number of porating the new regulations in the jewellery companies dotheir businesses. The seminar ing business in Europe, and it will take place at Fiera di Viceimperative that they be propnza on the second day of the erly prepared. Our goal is to VicenzaOro September jewelprovide a them with an initial lery show. roadmap, and to present the The new EU regulation imvarious alternatives that they poses certain due diligence will have at their disposal.” obligations upon companies The seminar will be the latimporting gold, tin, tantalum or (Above): Gaetano Cavalieri, est in a series of educational President of CIBJO. tungsten from conflict-affected events organised by CIBJO and and high-risk areas. It becomes the third major the Italian Exhibition Group, which is part of regulatory framework impacting the jewellery their programme, endorsed by the United Naindustry, joining the Kimberley Process, which tions Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC), focuses on the rough diamond trade, and to support corporate social responsibility and Section 1508 of the United States’ Dodd Frank sustainability in the jewellery sector.

The impact of the EU’s new conflict minerals legislation on the jewellery trade CIBJO and the IEG will present a seminar at VicenzaOro September about the impact of the new EU conflict minerals legislation on the jewellery trade.

AFTER FOUR YEARS OF DISCUSSION AND deliberation, in May 2017 the European Council and European Parliament provided overwhelming approval to Regulation (EU) 2017/821, which will regulate minerals from conflict areas into the European Union. The new legislation will significantly impact the operating procedures of both jewellery companies in the European Union, as well as companies that supply them from outside the EU. On Sunday, 24 September 2017, CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, and the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), will present a seminar intended to provide members of the jewellery trade with background on the new legislation and its impact and present strategies for incor-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

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MARKETING

WHAT EXACTLY IS A BRAND AMBASSADOR? It is a term used in the marketing world referring to a person who represents your company to create awareness of your product in a positive light, ultimately increasing sales thereof.

Their key element is to utilise strategies that will increase the desire of consumers to own or use the product, simultaneously strengthening the relationship between the customer and the manufacturer of the product (or service) by boosting his product.

Using celebrities – appropriate to the specific brand – is not a new concept. Celebrities are emulated by many and it makes sense to follow them and for marketers to use them to get a message across in order to capture the consumers’ attention and link the brand to their own personal image.

A face behind a br As with any marketing strategy, referral marketing requires the right mix of strategy, resources and people. If your brand manages to find the right ambassadors with the right blend of skills, personality and credibility, your referral marketing programme will certainly take off.

Famous watch brand Omega faced a severe crash in sales in the 1970s due to the Japanese Quartz phenomenon. It is believed that by the time Omega saw the error of its ways, the damage to its reputation had been done and until the end of the 1990s, it was no longer regarded as a luxury watch company. It was then for the first time, in 1995, that Cindy Crawford became the new face of Omega. The man behind this marketing ploy was believed to be Jean-Claude

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Biver, whose strategy changed the entire landscape of branding in the future. During this period, many companies expanded their annual budgets to meet the financial liabilities that came with celebrity endorsing.

Brand ambassadors or celebrity endorsements refer to a type of channel within a brand communication in which a well-known public figure is appointed as the spokesperson of that particular brand. The chosen celebrity

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

MARKETING

is selected based on their public image and whether the attributes they possess fit within the brand’s overall goal. At a time when corporate social responsibility plays a pivotal role, it seems more is expected of a brand ambassador than simply excelling in their field. Omega’s brand ambassadors include some of the world’s most renowned actors. “All of them have demonstrated not only an unwavering dedication to the art and craft of film-making, but also to making the world a better place,” explains the brand. “George Clooney is a committed humanitarian and was named a UN Special Messenger, while Academy Award winner Nicole Kidman is also a tireless campaigner for children’s and women’s rights and is a Goodwill Ambassador for UNICEF Australia and UN Women. Daniel Craig is featured in Through Their Eyes, a film that documents Orbis International and its Flying Eye Hospital when it was in Mongolia.”

The choice of a suitable celebrity to endorse a brand is based on their public image and whether it reinforces the claims the brand makes. This includes embodying the brand’s corporate identity and whether the appearance, demeanour, values and voice of the celebrity are compatible with that identity.

Celebrity branding can also go terribly wrong. When cycling hero Lance Armstrong was found guilty of doping, renowned sports brand Nike issued the following statement: “Due to the seemingly insurmountable evidence that Lance Armstrong participated in doping and misled Nike for more

rand

than a decade, it is with great sadness that we have terminated our contract with him.” Closer to home, paralympic champion Oscar Pistorius was estimated to receive endorsements worth more than US$2 million a year. However, after details of Reeva Steenkamp’s shooting emerged, Oakley cancelled its contract with Pistorius and Nike announced that it had no further plans of using him in advertisements.

Other challenges and risks may also arise.

When celebrities take on many endorsement opportunities, this can lead to over-exposure of that individual and gradually diminish their credibility. The idea that celebrities endorse several brands at the same time may suggest to the public that he or she will endorse anything in order to receive a steady pay-cheque.

Celebrities may also overshadow certain brands, depending on their social status, with consumers focusing more on the celebrity than on the brand they are representing.

Despite these pitfalls, however, celebrity endorsements mostly reap huge rewards for a brand.

“Brand ambassadors have always played an important role for luxury watch and jewellery brands, but they have become even more relevant today as the importance of social media grows,” says Mohammed Ravat of Bellagio Jewellers in Sandton City. “Brand ambassa-

dors are now able to directly influence their fans and followers to purchase a particular brand on social media platforms such as Instagram, Snapchat and Facebook.”

Using local brand “igniters” is a big part of local distributor Luxco Importers’ marketing strategy. Even though most of the prominent watch brands distributed by Luxco have international brand ambassadors, the company uses local celebrities in order to have a better impact on its local market and for its target market to identify more strongly with it.

Some of its local brand igniters include actress Thembi Seete for Michel Herbelin, Springbok rugby-player Rohan Janse van Rensburg for Rotary, Siyabonga Beyile (better know as the threadedman) for Titan and Springbok rugbyplayers Duane Vermeulen, Juan de Jongh, Damian De Allende and the entire Springbok 7s team for TW Steel.

In short, brand ambassadors and local igniters create a buzz. They are people who are genuinely interested in your brand and are willing to spread the word for you.

Using celebrities – appropriate to the specific brand – is not a new concept.

Celebrities are emulated by many and it makes sense to follow them and for marketers to use them to get a message across in order to capture the consumers’ attention and link the brand to their own personal image.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

17

BRAND HISTORY

Evolution of the pilot's watch What exactly is a pilot’s watch? It is actually a tool for aviators, although nowadays it is also considered a design style. It is also a collector’s item. However, a pilot’s watch is no casual instrument and there are certain rules which must be observed during its design for it to be a genuinely valued instrument in the air.

PILOT’S WATCHES WERE BORN DURING THE same time as aviation. The very first one, according to the records, was made by Louis Cartier for his Brazilian aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont in the mid-20th century.

Santos-Dumont had complained to Cartier about the difficulty of extracting his pocket watch during a flight. The renowned jeweller gave this problem considerable thought and finally collaborated with a manufacturer. Thus, the first pilot’s wristwatch was born. It marked a departure from the classic circular shape to one which was an integration of the rectangle and the square. This inspired the brand’s Santos design, which is a permanent feature in the Cartier watch collection.

Not long after Santos-Dumont took to the skies with Cartier's watch on his wrist, Zenith produced a timepiece for French pilot Louis Blériot, who was planning his epic flight from France across the English Channel from Calais to Dover. The watch was more practical than dressy, as clarity was important. It was large and easy to read, with big, luminous Arabic numerals and hands, as well as a large crown which could be operated while wearing gloves.

As aviation evolved, so did the functions of pilot’s watches. Longer travel hours required a more complicated tool which could track flight times and the watches needed on-board cal-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

culations and computations. As flying was a luxury pursuit in those early days, it was not surprising to find some of these timepieces were in 18ct gold.

Longines entered the fray in 1918, with a wristwatch that was based on the classic pocket watch design on many pilot’s watches.

Fast forward to the 1920s, when the airplane became part of popular culture and spawned a growing need for aviational accuracy. In 1927, American pilot Charles Lindbergh made his historic non-stop solo flight from Roosevelt Field on Long Island in New York to Le Bourget Field in Paris, having crossed the Atlantic in 33 hours and 30 seconds, creating an international sensation. His aircraft was a fabriccovered, single-seat, high-wing monoplane which he himself had helped design, named The Spirit of St Louis.

Longines had had a lengthy association with aviation – a natural relationship, given the brand’s navigational advances and its status as the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games.

Establishing longitude at sea was essential to determine a precise location and a discrepancy of even a few seconds over time could mean a course deviation of several miles. Longines had duly produced the Weems (named after its inventor, a naval captain), a timepiece capable of calculating this. It was a device for nautical navigation featuring a second dial that had be-

come an aeronautical tool. Pilots could listen to the minute beeps over the radio and adjust the dial, which helped maintain accuracy. The rotating inner dial displayed the correct minutes and graphically showed the margin of error from the original set time.

This was then updated and improved by Lindbergh, based on his experience of flying, and he explained his needs to Longines. The updated features allowed him to determine the hour angle – the technical description of longitude, based on Greenwich Mean Time. The watch aided navigation via additional markings to the dial and a bezel facilitating the calculation. It was named the Hour Angle watch and was worn by Lindbergh on his historic flight from New York to Paris. Longines has now released its famous Hour Angle watches in its Heritage collection.

Breguet began making pilot’s chronographs in 1955, commissioned by the French Air Force and naval arm. Its most famous aviator’s tiepiece has a vintage look and a 21st-century movement. It has central fly-back hands for both seconds and minutes, with a 12-hour chronograph totaliser at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. There is a date window at 6 o’clock and a 24-hour sub-dial at 3 o’clock.

IWC’s “Le Petit Prince” (named for the classic, eponymous novella by aviator Antoine de SaintExupéry, who described landing in the desert in the book) has been part of the brand’s design heritage since 1936. This brand has nine historic pilot’s watches in its collections. Rolex’s history also includes some timepieces with the pilot’s watch format, such as a 1933 Oyster Perpetual.

Because of its romantic connotations, a pilot’s watch today has strong appeal, not only as a fashion statement, but as a tribute to “those magnificent men in their flying machines” who braved the unknown.

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SCENE AROUND

(Above): Managing Director of Richline SA, Johan Bezuidenhout, with the Richline SA team.

Richline SA’s Winter Blanket Drive THE WINTER BLANKET DRIVE IS AN INITIATIVE launched by Richline South Africa three years ago to help provide blankets during the cold winter months to underprivileged communities. This year Johan Bezuidenhout, Managing Director of Richline SA, and his team dropped off almost 200 blankets in Jackson on the outskirts of Johannesburg.

“Each blanket was hand delivered on 30 June to incredibly grateful recipients,” commented Linda Stock from SA Jewellery News, who went with the team when the blankets were handed out.

Richline SA hopes that other companies will join this initiative next year in order to deliver even more blankets. “As an industry, let’s see how many people we can keep warm next year during winter,” says Bezuidenhout.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

21

STRAP

Embracing personalisation For thousands of years, jewellery has been customised to offer the wearer a unique and meaningful experience and independent jewellers have always made the most of this market segment.

WHEN IT COMES TO CUSTOMISED JEWELLERY, creative thinking plays a fundamental role.

And this doesn’t apply only to the jewellery industry: direct-to-garment printers are making personalised T-shirts, corporate gifting and trophies. This is well established and now the technology is available for jewellers to do the same.

“Jewellers need to realise that personalisation is creating meaning through customisation,” says Warwick Smith-Chandler, founder of Perfect Laser Technologies. “Customers are seeking longer-lasting, sustainable, personalised items and social media has shown us that engaging with clients over time is the surest way to build a viable, ongoing sales platform.

All of this results in a happy client with a personalised item that is (to the wearer) a priceless gift and to the jeweller, an opportunity to maintain a relationship and ultimately sell a ‘big-ticket’ item.

“New business opportunities are possible, however, because while the technology exists to personalise jewellery and most metal items, it’s only been adopted by a few manufacturing jewellers,” he adds. “The fact is that desktop portable engravers are now available which give the independent jeweller the opportunity to cash in on this personalisation trend.

“By leveraging the client’s demand for a personal experience, jewellers can build and add new

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

layers to their business. With low technical demands, it would be foolish to turn down a R250 engraving opportunity for a few minutes’ work. Every jeweller can become part of this manufacturing tendency.”

There are many engraving solutions available on the market, with fibre laser becoming a preferred choice. The fibre laser’s ease of use and variety of output add to its appeal and its capabilities include putting fingerprints, pet’s paws and photos on jewellery items. It can also do signet ring and inside ring engraving.

“Vogue magazine’s Editor recently commented that personalisation has reignited a love for and interest in jewellery, encouraging jewellers who aren’t already cashing in on the demand to do so,” says Smith-Chandler.

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Address: 65 Wale Street, Cape Town, 8001 Phone no.: 021 424 3371 Fax no.: 021 424 6829 Email: ian@lipmanson.co.za Website: www.lipmanson.co.za

RETAIL CORNER

What’s your niche?

A monthly column written by industry expert Dr Petré Prins.

TO THE SAMSODIEN FAMily from Athlone, Cape Town, their daughter Fatima was the future. A career counsellor advised her to study art and in 2010, she started with a BA in jewellery design at Stellenbosch.

She excelled, won second prize in the PlatAfrica design competition in her final year and in February 2014, became the first university graduate in the Samsodien family.

Fatima’s uncle, Taliep, was a goldsmith and took her for trials at some workshops.

She took three days to make a solitaire ring in silver, slightly skew. Three months later, with no job and no prospects, she was panicking.

One workshop owner said she could earn more money parking cars than filing up castings.

Fatima’s predicament was not unique. In the late 1990s, our government had replaced the

existing goldsmith apprenticeship programme with ineffective learnerships and trained thousands of jewellery workers at universities and FET colleges. Most of them received fancy certificates, but were unemployable.

I advised Fatima to enrol as an MQA jewellery intern. Diamond-setting formed part of her course and she excelled in it. Today she earns a decent salary as a diamond-setter, but I suspect she would do better as a CAD designer.

Although the diamond and jewellery industry offers a legion of exciting opportunities, newcomers find it difficult to enter. Worldwide, family jewellers are being replaced by large chains and the transfer of skills and finance from father to son has all but disappeared.

A few talented designers win competitions and instant fame, but can they make it? Jewellery materials and rentals are expensive, an online presence is costly and a fledgling jeweller requires a certain amount of business acumen to succeed.

Here is some advice for those wanting to enter our industry: First ask yourself whether you know what 18ct gold consists of. If you do not, you are not really interested in jewellery and should consider another industry. If you do know the answer, ask yourself the following questions: • Am I at ease with people or do I prefer working alone?

• Am I likely to be a good entrepreneur with sufficient funds and business skills, or do I need to work for a boss?

• Do I enjoy selling, creating or organising?

• What are my technical skills?

• Am I interested in fashion and social media?

• Can I travel and work unusual hours?

Then look at the opportunities. The enterprises mentioned below require eloquent salespeople with a sunny, accessible disposition, a good work ethic and willingness to learn.

All wholesalers in diamonds, coloured gems, jewellery and watches need trustworthy salespeople willing to travel. This is an excellent starting point for those without finance and specialised skills.

Housewives in country towns import pearls and silver jewellery and sell from home or craft markets. Crafters sell ethnic jewellery at mall shops and craft fairs. Department stores with fashion jewellery departments require salespeople. Even discount stores, such as Makro, have a silver and 9ct jewellery department. In shopping malls, there are kiosks selling middlemarket jewellery, as well as stand-alone stores run by chain groups or family businesses. These often specialise in diamond and gemstone jewellery, pearls, watches, writing instruments, silverware and antique jewellery. Mezzanine and offthe-main-street destination jewellers cater for upmarket private clients and tourists. And there are pawnshops, dealers in second-hand jewellery and auctioneers handling middle- to top-market goods.

The fastest growth in the retail sector is happening on the Internet. Most bricks-andmortar stores employ staff to maintain an online presence, while a large number of entrepreneurs trade from home via the cloud.

On the Internet, 20-30 retail sales positions are advertised weekly, most of them requiring a basic knowledge of gems and jewellery. Unlike other countries, there is no registered South African qualification for the retail jewellery trade. However, informed tourists will not buy from a salesperson who cannot explain why there is an SI-3 clarity grade on the Rap Report, but not on a GIA Diamond Report.Fortunately, the Jewellery Council of SA, in collaboration with private laboratories, offers short retail courses, while the large chains do in-house training. Our SETA has identified specialised training as key to our manufacturing industry and is supporting post-graduate internships in jewellery manufacturing.

It is time some of our tertiary training institutions offered a degree course in jewellery store management. This would lend professionalism to our industry and attract entrepreneurial youngsters seeking a professional career. Moreover, our manufacturing sectors should develop a registered aptitude test for goldsmiths and diamond-cutters to cut the costs of training of unsuitable candidates.

Although the diamond and jewellery industry offers a legion of exciting opportunities, newcomers find it difficult to enter.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

New versions from centuries-old watchmaker The most classic Hermès watch designs have been re-introduced by the Parisian brand in two new takes of the Hermès Arceau Très Grand Modèle. The company has been on a roll the past few years, introducing new movements and watches.

The classic Arceau was designed in 1991 in a very large size (Très Grand), its design featuring the swooping numerals which curve as they traverse the dial and the semiwhite lugs which curve out from the case, which is round with a slim bezel.

The new model resembles the original, but in different colours and finishes. The first has a 40 mm steel case, as well as a hazelnut-brown dial with a chevron pattern in the centre and a sunburst finish on the chapter ring. This has applied gold Arabic numerals in the classic Arceau style.

These contrasting patterns make the dial look two-toned, even though the colour is even throughout. A matching date window is at 6 o’clock, but other than that, the layout is

a simple two-hand. The watch is set on an alligator strap. The calibre is a simple in-house automatic movement which has 193 components, a 50-hour power reserve, decoration finishes and the Hermès H-motif.

The second new version is also set in a steel case, but has a blue lacquered dial with a sunburst finish, silvered Arabic numerals around the outer edge and a date window. The strap is a matching “Abyss blue” alligator. This version has a Swiss quartz movement.

The movement is, of course, the heart of a watch and the company established a watchmaking division in Bienne, Switzerland – the heart of the Swiss watch industry – in 1978. The dial is an expression of its soul. From the raw material to the finished part, no fewer than 60 different operations are involved in the making of the dial alone. New models re-

Breitling revamps iconic design The Superocean professional diver’s watch launched in 1957 has given rise to several generations of instruments boasting peerless aquatic performance.

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of this pioneer of wide open spaces, Breitling has revamped its iconic design. The main development is a new steel bezel with an ultra-hard high-tech ceramic ring that is scratchproof and extremely shock-resistant.

The elimination of the metal ring surrounding the minute circle means that this bezel appears to form a seamless whole with the dial bearing the original Superocean logo. The shape of the hands – triangular for the hours and lozenge-like for the minutes – as well as the slightly cone-shaped hour-markers, reinforces ties with the 1957 model, while ensuring optimal legibility.

In terms of performance, this new Superocean Héritage II is water-resistant to 200 m and beats to the rhythm of the Manufacture Calibre 20, chronometer-certified by the COSC and endowed with a more than 70-hour power reserve.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

quire new technical solutions.

The dials for Hermès watches are created in a workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds on the border of Switzerland and France, where artisans set the diamonds in bejewelled timepieces, prepare mother-of-pearl and facet certain parts. A staff of 60 is required to accomplish this and the company acquired the operation in 2012.

The French luxury company was founded over a century ago and of horological interest is a photograph dated 1912, showing one of the four daughters of Émile Hermès wearing a pocket watch on her wrist, for which she had a special strap made by one of the firm’s leather craftsmen. The store in Paris’s famed rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré offered timepieces bearing the Hermès signature which were equipped with mechanisms from the most renowned Swiss watch brands. Half a century later, the company established its watchmaking division in Bienne, where it has developed its collections.

Making a statement The Tissot Chrono XL is characterised by its very large case, which measures 45 mm in diameter. The size of the dial, with its contemporary Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, makes it easy to read.

Adding to its flair is the chronograph function.

The collection offers multiple styles which include vintage touches like old-school leather bracelets in various shades of brown and stylish stitching. Adding to its character is the dark green or black PVD coating or, alternatively, grey or black executions on certain watches. The dials vary according to the model, from dark grey to blue or black. It offers two alternatives – mounted on a stainless steel bracelet or a case.

This Swiss-made model has a quartz chronograph movement and is water-resistant to 10 bars (100 m).

The plus sign in the logo symbolises the Swiss quality and reliability inherent in all Tissot models since 1853.

The brand is marketed in more than 160 countries.

Tissot has been named as the official timekeeper for the Tour de France and the UCI World Cycling championships and partners many other disciplines, including motorsport and the FM World Superbike championships. Cycling is a sport of endurance and speed in which the brand has been involved for over 50 years. It has an unmistakable athletic design and bears the yellow and black colours of the Tour de France race in its special edition.

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LITTLE GEMS

Spinel – an under-rated gemstone Alice Weil looks at the beauty and magnificence of spinel, a gemstone which is possibly under-utilised in jewellery settings.

THROUGHOUT ITS HIStory spinel has been confused with ruby, but these gems were eventually recognised as individual and should assume their rightful place in the hierarchy of popular gems. But spinel is overshadowed by the popularity of ruby and sapphire and its use is somewhat obscured by the more glamorous corundum.

While generally red in colour, spinels also appear in yellow, blue, green and brown varieties. The blue is dark and there is also a greenish-blue, greyish-green and dark to light purple to violet, but the most popular colour is red.

The reds can be a lively poppy-red or violetred. A really beautiful colour is the flame spinel – a fiery orangey-red. Black varieties, some with a streak of white, are also found. Blue and black forms are known as Ceylonite and Pleonaste and are somewhat dingy – the former named for the island of Ceylon and Pleonaste after the Greek

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word for “abundant”. Blue is the predominant stone from Sri Lanka. Interestingly, black spinels have been found in the ejected masses from the crater of Monte Somma, Vesuvius. But none of these are suitable for jewellery settings.

The origin of its name can be traced back to the Latin, meaning “little thorn”, a reference to the sharp points of some crystals. The stone is well documented as early as the 16th century, when it was referred to as “another kind of ruby”, but its many other qualities make it the near-equal of ruby and sapphire.

Due to its very good dispersion, it possesses vivid fire and, unlike many other gemstones, it has never been treated, which makes it unusual. It forms as a cubic crystal-like diamond, but – unlike diamond – it does not have good cleavage. It, too, is judged by colour and clarity, with the finest stones being of a saturated colour.

Another aspect which made spinel of use throughout history is that it is known as a lodestone, making it valuable to mariners in the 11th century. Its magnetic properties were used for their compasses, aiding them to chart their ship’s course at sea. This, in turn, saw the beginning of the art of calligraphy as seamen began to plot the courses of their voyages and created the world’s earliest maps.

Measuring 8 on the Moh's scale, spinel has a density of 3,54-3,63. In mineralogy it is classified as a mineral of general formulation which crystallises in the cubic crystal system, with the oxide anions arranged. But only a few

of these are of good quality. Large stones are rare and some well-known “rubies” are really sapphires.

Some of the most precious spinels were thought to be rubies. The most famous of all is the large crimson semi-polished orb known as the “Black Prince Ruby“, set in the front of the British Imperial State Crown, part of England’s Crown Jewels. This is not a ruby at all, but a spinel. The Black Prince was Edward, Prince of Wales (1330-1356), whose epitaph possibly reflected the terror he inspired in the French, but more probably referred to the colour of his suit of armour.

The world’s largest spinel found to date is 5,5 cm with a weight of 500ct, the third-largest at 398,72ct, is set in the top of the Imperial Crown of Russia.

Some of the most beautiful spinels came from Myanmar, formerly Burma, where they were often found as water-worn pebbles in alluvial ground. This is the gem’s traditional source, as is Sri Lanka, but while the supply of the former is steady and of high quality, it is limited.

In olden times spinel was known as “Balas Ruby“, a name most likely derived from Badashan in Northern India, where it is believed the earliest stones were found. Balas is the current name for the rose-tinted variety.

In the mid-18th century synthetic spinel was accidentally produced, which has more recently been described in certain scientific publications, but it is not readily available today.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2017

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