R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News AUGUST 2019
SA
Empowering women empowers the diamond industry A rare African gem Cape Town vs Johannesburg – where are retailers really winning?
Finest Gemstones & Beads Cape Town: 021 422 4677 or 021 424 0063 or 076 162 3741 Email: info@ajanta.co.za or gems@ajanta.co.za www.ajantaafrika.com
Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za
c ntents 17. RETAILING
Advertising Sales: Anthea Verster Cell: 083-447-8428 E-mail: anthea@isikhova.co.za
Cape Town vs Johannesburg – where are retailers really winning?
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
19. GEMSTONES A rare African gem
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za
9. NEWS • Johannesburg and surrounding jewellers urged to participate in test case process
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
• WDC President calls on KP member countries to optimise developmental potential of diamonds
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
• De Beers can do more, Botswana group says
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za
• GIA diamond grading lab class to be hosted in Johannesburg this month
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za
The Russian connection
• Israel bourse unveils “real diamonds” campaign
Printing: Typo
Banking Details: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 3319 867 44
21. BRAND HISTORY
15. WOMEN’S DAY Empowering women empowers the diamond industry
16. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST Innovative thinking
22. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Panerai’s new Radiomir models • Gucci forays into high-end jewellery
Jewellery Council of
South Africa
Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
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24. LITTLE GEMS There’s gold in them thar hills
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Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News AUGUST 2019
SA
On the cover Jewellery manufacturer and mass producer Richline South Africa hosted open days at its factory on 9-10 July to give students, industry and government representatives
Empowering women empowers the diamond industry
the opportunity to see how a high-volume jewellery plant operates. “The feedback
A rare African gem
we received was extremely positive and we’ll definitely continue with this initiative in
Cape Town vs Johannesburg – where are retailers really winning?
future,” says Johan Bezuidenhout, MD for Richline South Africa. Contact Richline SA on tel: (011) 418-1600 or visit: www.richlinesa.co.za.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
NEWS
Jewellex Bulletin Board Arrangements for Jewellex Africa 2019 are well underway and this year’s Jewellex committee is extremely excited to be offering a bigger and better show. “We’re pleased to welcome some new exhibitors, including a delegation from Mauritius, who’ll add to the variety of what’s being offered at the show. A new floor layout promises to provide a fresh look,” says a committee spokesperson. Jewellex Cocktail Function proudly sponsored by Anglo American Platinum Jewellex is not all work! You have an opportunity to network with friends and colleagues at the Jewellex Cocktail Function, which is being sponsored by Anglo American Platinum. This year, for the first time, we will host the function at the show in the Metcon Coffee Shop at 3pm on Saturday, 5 October. Join us for drinks (cash bar) and refreshments and enjoy a fashion and jewellery show presented by Tshwane University’s fashion students, who will dress models in couture outfits to show off beautiful jewellery. Invitations will be sent out in due course. Jewellex Africa Exhibitor Support Awards 2019 Jewellex will be introducing the Jewellex Africa Exhibitor Support Awards for the first time this year in honour of exhibitors who have been loyal supporters of the show for over 10 years. These awards are to thank those companies for their contribution over the years. The presentation will take place at the Jewellex Cock-
tail Function on Saturday, 5 October and will replace the Best Stand Awards. Only members will be eligible to receive such an award. CPM Chill Lounge Cape Precious Metals will be the host of the CPM Chill Lounge serving chilled champagne, wine and gin cocktails. You will also have an opportunity to participate in gintastings at specific times over the three days, at which Wilderer Gin experts will serve these tasty drinks. Speaker’s Corner Speaker’s Corner in the Metcon Coffee Shop promises interesting talks and interviews relating to relevant topics in our industry. Jewellery Council Collection Awards (JCCA) Design Competition The JCCA winners will be announced on Monday, 7 October at 12 noon in the CPM Chill Lounge. Please join us in honouring our young stars entering the industry. Jewellex Business Breakfast Jewellex would like to offer a Business Breakfast on Sunday, 6 October at 9am, where a speaker will give an address on a relevant topic. We are inviting potential sponsors to come forward. Stand sales are open and interested parties are invited to call: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za or elsad@jewellery. org.za.
Many thanks to our 2019 sponsors: Anglo American Platinum – Cocktail Function Brinks – Lanyards Protea Diamonds – Carrier bags Metal Concentrators – Metcon Coffee Shop and JCCA Design Competition BYL Diamonds – Registration Cape Precious Metals – CPM Chill Lounge and JCCA Design Competition Gemfields – Wi-Fi IBV – Water bottles EJP – Sponsorship of trophies – JCCA Design Competition Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and has been hosted by the Jewellery Council of SA for over 40 years. The Jewellex Africa Trade Fair attracts exhibitors from all over the world, including Europe, the USA, the Far East and SADC countries. This is the time when new merchandise lines and the most exclusive and extensive product ranges of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services are offered to the local and international retail jewellery industry. Jewellex Africa 2019 is scheduled to take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.
JOHANNESBURG AND SURROUNDING JEWELLERS URGED TO PARTICIPATE IN TEST CASE PROCESS The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) thanked members who attended the JCSA road show held in Johannesburg and urged jewellers again to participate in the test case process. “The one important discussion held at the road show was that of the Mining Charter and our intention to pursue this matter through a legal route,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. “It’s imperative for members to participate in the test case process. If members, in their experience, felt that they were forced by the Regulator to create an unrealistic compliance requirement, then this will apply to precisely those members,” she adds. “Ideally, these test cases should be as current as possible. Mem-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
bers are welcome to contact me personally if they wish to discuss their business scenario.” The JCSA, on behalf of its members, is consulting with legal counsel and deliberating with its board over taking legal action against the Department of Mineral Resources (DMR) on the relevance of the application of the Mining Charter to the jewellery manufacturing industry. Legal counsel is of the opinion that the SA Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator is erroneously applying the provisions in the Precious Metals Act and the 2018 Mining Charter. This is based on the unsuccessful consultative process between the JCSA and the DMR in the drafting of amendments and
the implementation guidelines to the 2018 Mining Charter, and the discovery of the intended application thereof. In terms of the cost implications, the JCSA’s board has approved an amount of up to R400 000 with the provision of a rand-forrand match from members. “Please consider at least a contribution of R1 000-R2 000,” says Lloyd. “This is for members to finally get clarity on guidelines that will affect the industry’s future growth, development and employment. Once the process has been completed, all unused funds will be proportionately refunded.” For more information or for banking details, contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484-5528.
9
NEWS
GIA DIAMOND GRADING LAB CLASS TO BE HOSTED IN JOHANNESBURG The Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School will be hosting a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) diamond grading lab class in Johannesburg from 26-20 August 2019. Through the GIA’s unique combination of classroom lectures, hands-on training, oneon-one coaching and integrated multimedia, the institute’s diamond grading lab class will explore how to grade diamonds consistently and accurately using a modern gem microscope and jeweller’s loupe. Students will study the GIA international diamond grading system, explore time-saving shortcuts to determine a variety of grading factors and be introduced to methods for reading a GIA diamond grading report. They will further spend more than 16 hours practising grading
techniques on diamonds that were carefully selected and graded by the GIA. In the process, students will study how to recognise the most common diamond features. They will have to pass a two-stone practical exam to complete the class successfully and will be allowed to keep a lab manual, a pointer probe, a gem cloth, a plotting pen set, a table gauge, a crown angle card and a colour grading card. Successful completion of this class will be accepted by the GIA as training credit towards GIA certificates and diplomas. For fee information or to enrol, contact the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School on tel: (011) 334-9003/8420 or e-mail: info@diamondtrainingschool.co.za.
(Above): During the Jewellery Council of South Africa’s board meeting which was held on 17 July, Chris van Rensburg was elected to serve as chairperson and Nthabiseng Xaba as vicechairperson. This will be van Rensburg’s second consecutive term as JCSA chairperson. Only persons who have served as executive directors for over a calendar year or more on the board of the JCSA were eligible to be nominated. Both the chairperson and vice-chairperson will hold office for a term of three years. Van Rensburg has been a member of the Jewellery Council board for 12 years and has been a part of the jewellery industry for 38 years.
DE BEERS CAN DO MORE, SAYS BOTSWANA GROUP A Botswana employers’ advocacy group has called out De Beers for failing to provide substantial opportunities for the country’s business people. “The benefits deriving from the diamond industry have unfortunately not been enjoyed by Batswana entrepreneurs,” Gobusamang Keebine, President of Business Botswana, said in a speech during the fifth regional High-Level Consultative Conference (HLCC) in Francistown. A transcript was posted on the Botswana government’s Facebook page. “[De Beers] has done very little to add to economic activity in Botswana and improve Batswana business participation in the industry,” he stressed. De Beers is about to start negotiations on a new supply and marketing agreement with the Botswana government, as the current contract expires in 2020. While the sales partnership between the two has created more than 3 600 jobs for local citizens, the bulk of those were lower-level positions and there has been little change over the years, Keebine noted. The current 10-year agreement from 2011
led De Beers to relocate its sorting and sales operations from London to Gaborone – a move that failed to offer prospects for local entrepreneurs, Keebine claimed. The miner should learn from Chinese businesses operating in Botswana’s construction centre, which have been transferring their skills to locals, he said. He also criticised the Okavango Diamond Company, which was created in 2012 to sell 15% of local mining company Debswana’s production on behalf of the government. While Okavango is operating as a commercial entity, it does not promote beneficiation and citizen empowerment, he said. Business Botswana has asked the government to allow it to participate in negotiations with De Beers, as the company’s supply agreement is up for renewal in 2020. “It’s imperative that a greater sense of urgency is given to reforms which will ensure that Batswana entrepreneurs are able to benefit,” Keebine added. A De Beers spokesperson dismissed the critique, arguing that the company leads the industry in terms of developing prospects for local entrepreneurs.
“The De Beers Group has a long and proud history of creating value and opportunities for Batswana and we will continue to do so,” David Johnson, Head of Strategic Communications for De Beers, told Rapaport News. “Our beneficiation approach is underpinned by a system… that creates the most value in the country by skills transfer and local rough diamond utilisation.” The relocation of the company’s sightholder sales to Gaborone has had a significant positive impact on the country as well, Johnson pointed out. “It’s been instrumental in developing Batswana professionals in key business management roles.” The miner supports a number of initiatives which benefit the country’s professionals as well, including a leadership programme with the Stanford Graduate School of Business; the Tokafala enterprise development programme, which offers small, micro and mediumsized businesses mentoring and access to market; and a partnership with UN Women to support female entrepreneurs, Johnson added. – Rapaport
ISRAEL BOURSE UNVEILS “REAL DIAMONDS” CAMPAIGN The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) has launched an international awareness campaign highlighting the unique features of natural diamonds. The bourse will promote its “I Love Natural Diamonds” campaign – which it says is the first international initiative by a global diamond centre to differentiate real diamonds from synthetics – over social media. It will feature
10
several short videos, released over a number of weeks, starting with a piece entitled Fake Times. Real Diamonds. The project was first announced at the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) Executive Committee meeting held in Israel recently. “At a time when counterfeit products and fake reproductions flood almost every market,
few commodities remain as rare and exceptional as natural diamonds,” said IDE President Yoram Dvash, who hosted the WFDB meeting. “In this campaign, we want to highlight the exceptional qualities of natural diamonds as symbols of love and timelessness over the generations and throughout the world.” – Rapaport
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
NEWS
KP MEMBER COUNTRIES ASKED TO OPTIMISE DEVELOPMENTAL POTENTIAL OF DIAMONDS WDC President Stephane Fischler has called on Kimberley Process (KP) member governments to do what is necessary to safeguard the interests of their mining communities and, in so doing, optimise the developmental potential of their natural resources. He was speaking during the Opening Session of the 2019 Intersessional Meeting of the KP, which opened recently in the Indian city of Mumbai. “We must agree that the KP should ensure that each government takes responsibility for ensuring a chain of provenance, earning the trust of consumers wherever they are and, in so doing, producing the revenues that must filter back to the grass roots of the mining communities,” Fischler stated. Historically, he noted, one of the most critical factors determining whether a country’s economy is able to take advantage of the potential offered by its rough diamond deposits is the relative absence of ongoing conflict and violence. “There’s a dramatic disparity between the developmental level of those countries and the others that suffered the tragedy of civil war,” Fischler observed. “Only today are some slowly realising the opportunities that their commodities could offer in helping maintain the peace and allowing for nation-building.” The Intersessional Meeting is one of two gatherings of all KP participants that will take place in India in 2019, which is the final year of a three-year reform and review process underway in the organisation. “The KP today has
a one-time opportunity to make a difference in those countries where the diamond industry hasn’t yet realised its developmental potential,” he said. Fischler delineated the elements that distinguish review from reform. Reform, he said, involves enhancing internal processes, so that the KP can “make better use of the instruments we ourselves have created, or will create in the future, for the benefit of the members, to generate a more efficient and effective
organisation”. These, he explained, include a simplified and more consistent core document, a strengthened peer-review mechanism, the creation of a permanent secretariat and the establishment of a multi-donor fund to ensure that all participants are capable of being fully active within the KP. Reform is a more fundamental process, the WDC President stressed, noting that in its case, industry believes the definition of what constitutes “conflict diamonds” should be expanded. “We strongly believe that by helping
to eliminate the trade in diamonds directly associated with instances of systemic violence, we can bring about a more responsible and ethical mining sector, thus enabling a fairer distribution of the benefits delivered to millions of people,” he said While the diamond industry and civil society will do all they can to support constructive change as observers in the KP, it will ultimately be up to governments to reach consensus on the review and reform that are required, Fischler added. “We need you, the country representatives, to have the courage to look into the eyes of your own people – the men, women and children active and living in the diamond mining areas. They ask that they be allowed to live, rather than simply survive. They request safety and security for themselves and their families and to be dignified with a proper wage, so that they can build a better future for themselves and their children, and contribute proudly as citizens. “We’re relying on each of you, during this final year of the review and reform process, to show the consumers of diamonds that the KP can unite around a programme that will ensure better care and protection of your brothers and sisters,” declared Fischler. Prior to the opening session, the WDC hosted an Observers’ Forum with the other official observers in the KP, including the Civil Society Coalition, the Diamond Development Initiative and the African Diamond Producers' Association.
thank you Women of the industry,
for making a difference
The Jewellery Hub salutes you ADDRESS: 15 Reitz rd, Farrarmere, Benoni | TEL: 083 326 5746 | EMAIL: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za | WEBSITE: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za
MARKETS
Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
MANUFACTURERS
DIAMOND DEALERS
0%
33,3%
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66,6%
33,3%
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66,6%
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33,3%
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WORSE
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Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
General sales compared with last year this time
Best-selling diamond size
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WORSE
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
WHOLESALERS
General sales compared with last year this time
0%
BETTER
JUNE 2019 VS JUNE 2018
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
66,6%
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33,3%
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Foot traffic
General sales compared with last year this time
Watch sales
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YOUR OFFICIAL INDUSTRY EXPORT GUIDE INTO AFRICA A round table of synthetic discussion diamonds diamonds on the subject took at the place vs natural Metcon at 14h00 of Blom coffee yesterday shop. World Diamonds Ernie Federation and President Blom renowned of Diamond of the Friedman local jewellery Bourses, and designer Studio Chris C Kevin Council and Chairmanvan Rensburg of South of of while Andrew Africa led the Jewellery Publishing the discussion Meyer, CEO and publisher Communica of Isikhova of SA as facilitator. Jewellery tions and News, served
BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY | JULY-DECEMBER 2019
For more information about our products or if you would like to advertise in any of our publications contact IAN (ian@isikhova.co.za or 011 883 4627)
We Consult, Advise on Compliance, Compile and Submit on your behalf
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WOMEN’S DAY
Empowering women empowers the diamond industry In a business where the overwhelming majority of endconsumers are female, women in the diamond sector are remarkably under-represented not only at the executive and employee levels, but even in terms of the way the product has traditionally been marketed, says World Diamond Council (WDC) Executive Director Marie Chantal Kaninda. THE MODEL IN THE PHOTOGRAPH WEARING the ring, brooch or necklace is generally a woman, but more often than not, the message is directed at her male partner, on whose generosity she must depend. To be fair, in the developed markets and economies, there has been a degree of progress, with self-purchaser campaigns more commonplace and some remarkably talented women making their way into boardrooms and executive suites. However, it remains a largely maledominated world, with real parity still an unrealised objective. And the situation is less encouraging in the developing economies, where diamonds are predominantly extracted and processed, particularly in places where artisanal mining takes place. According to a 2018 report published by the International Institute for Sustainable Development, women make up around 30% of the
financing and access to geological data. In Ghana, for example, women in the ASM sector who are engaged in processing and hauling roles earn on average 60% less than men in digging roles. More ominously, women are considerably more likely to fall victim to instances of violence. A survey carried out in 2016 in the DRC by the Women’s International League for Peace & Freedom reported that 74% of women questioned at artisanal mines said they had been subjected to sexual violence, while 71% said that they did not feel safe on site. This is an area where the WDC is making a difference. Our quest to ensure that the diamonds flowing through the value chain are not associated with violence, human rights violations and labour discrimination means we have a duty to address the plight of women in our industry and, in so doing, hopefully bring about change, both
achieve as a woman in our industry, as well as the opportunity provided to me by the WDC. I am also privileged to be working alongside a group of talented and accomplished female members who prove daily that in the diamond sector, the glass ceiling is an illusory barrier. But this is not only a women’s campaign: it belongs to all of us. In many respects, it is the girl that is the diamond’s best friend. •
The WDC is an industry organisation focused on preventing conflict diamonds from entering the global supply chain and on preserving the value attached to natural diamonds. Formed in 2000, it is the only organisation where the diamond trade is represented in full, from producer to retailer, and includes the most influential commercial businesses, not-for-profit organisations and individual companies in the industry today. The WDC is the voice of the international diamond industry in a tripartite collaboration with governments and civil society known
total ASM workforce and up to 50% in some regions. But they are generally relegated to secondary and menial roles, such as sluicing, washing, panning, sieving and sorting, and are frequently discriminated against when it comes to things like licences,
in attitudes and on the ground. The UN’s Sustainable Development Goal 5 calls for the achievement of gender equality and the empowerment of women and girls. It is an objective we should all pursue. I am most proud of what I have managed to
as the Kimberley Process (KP). The KP secures and manages monitoring processes that have virtually eliminated the trade in conflict diamonds to ensure that the world’s supply of diamonds is from sources free of conflict.
I am most proud of what I have managed to achieve as a woman in our industry, as well as the opportunity provided to me by the WDC. I am also privileged to be working alongside a group of talented and accomplished female members who prove daily that in the diamond sector, the glass ceiling is an illusory barrier. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
15
THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
Innovative thinking Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. DARE I WRITE AN ARTICLE on innovation for an industry that thrives on it, and one which excels in creative design and techniques? Yes, but in this case it is with a very specific emphasis on the aspect of innovative and different thinking, especially regarding business processes, habits, assumptions and traditional ways of operating. Dr Edward de Bono, the father of lateral thinking, once said: “The best and cheapest form of competitive advantage is when you look at your existing systems and processes and see where you can improve them.” It is about taking time out to think about your business and ask questions about why you
do things in certain ways. It is about working on your business, not only in it, which is what many of us do most of the time by natural default. So the first ingredient for innovative and different thinking is to intentionally take time out to think. I facilitated an innovative thinking session for a high-end electronics outlet, which – although it was situated in an upmarket shopping centre – was struggling to get feet through the door. Its main challenge, though, which had persisted for about two years, was that its location within the centre was far from mainstream shopper traffic. Unfortunately, noone had ever gathered the staff to do some different innovative thinking about how to overcome that challenge. Once they attended the workshop, they realised the benefit of being able to think without the hindrance of their daily business routine and interruptions. During the session, they were able to focus 100% on finding solutions to the problem. Innovative thinking does not have to change the world. Often it is the seemingly simple ideas, which are relatively easy to implement, that have the greatest business impact. In this example, the solution that came out of the group session was simply that instead of sitting
around waiting for customers to enter the store, some of the floor staff members would go out and invite them to do so. It was mobile face-to-face marketing. They chatted to shoppers, handed out pamphlets, gave out small shopping incentives and created a lot of awareness. When you make time and space to think, it energises people, gets their creativity flowing and allows you to redesign things that are no longer helping your business as well as they did a few years ago. Simple questions to ask could be: “Why are we still doing this in this way? Is the original reason still applicable? Could we adapt and improve in order to maximise our efficiencies and effectiveness? What are our assumptions and perceptions of our customers, the market and the way we traditionally do business? What are some 'what-if' scenarios? How can we inject enthusiasm and excitement into our customer experience?” One of the best rewards of collaborative innovative thinking is that you tap into the intellectual capacity of the people you employ – which is the best way to enhance employee motivation, strengthen their commitment and increase customer excellence. Have some fun and try it. Start small: not every suggestion can or should be implemented, but experiment with a few new ideas in your business.
Often it is the seemingly simple ideas, which are relatively easy to implement, that have the greatest business impact. 16
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
RETAILING
Cape Town vs Johannesburg: where are retailers really winning? New global research by Vend, a cloud-based retail software platform for independent retailers, has found that Cape Town independent stores enjoy average transaction values up to 49% higher than retailers in Johannesburg. THE VEND 2019 RETAIL BENCHMARKS REPORT assesses the state of independent retailers around the world. In SA, the report found that independent stores in Cape Town record an average of 374 transactions per month, compared with 470 transactions per month in Johannesburg stores, but that average transaction values are significantly higher in Cape Town (R547*) than in Johannesburg (R366). Gross margins are also higher in Cape Town (47%) than in Johannesburg (43%). The report analysed the data of more than 13 000 independent stores in North America, the UK, Australia, New Zealand and SA over the past financial year (April 2018-March 2019), looking at monthly revenues, gross profit margin, number of transactions processed per month, transaction value, basket size and number of customers. It found that retailers in North America and SA have the highest customer numbers – with an average customer count of 808,82 and 800,08 respectively – against the global average of 637 and that South African retailers have the highest average basket size, with an average of 2,84 items per basket. “It’s not easy for small retailers to benchmark their performance against that of their peers, so Vend’s Retail Benchmarks Report allows Vend customers around the world to assess their performance and identify opportunities for improvement,” says Higor Torchia, MD: EMEA for Vend. “This research is one of the many ways in which Vend is working to make independent retailers’ lives easier. One of the benefits of Vend is that it enables retailers to develop a more loyal customer base and we see the evidence of this reflected in SA’s high customer loyalty numbers.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
Vend’s research found that globally, independent retailers have a monthly average revenue of R413 425* across all stores, with North American retailers generating the most revenue – grossing R443 948. South African retailers gross the least, with a monthly average revenue of R268 689. From a “per store” perspective, New Zealand and Australian retailers lead with R318 965 and R318 079 respectively and South African retailers generate the least per store, at an average of R187 245 per store.
Globally, beer, wine and liquor stores earn the most (R742 904) in gross monthly revenue, followed by furniture stores (R607 579). The lowest revenue-grossing retailers include office supplies, stationery and gift shops (R315 947) and retailers in the hobbies and musical instruments space (R319 008). In SA, average gross monthly revenue per store is highest for beer, wine and liquor stores (R506 251) and shoe stores (R325 015), followed by sporting goods stores (R313 531) and home furnishing stores (R206 476). The report also noted that the South African fashion and accessory sector has shown solid growth in the past year, with average monthly revenues per store increasing by 13% from 2018.
The independent retailers with the lowest per store revenue globally include cosmetics stores (R201 177) and office supplies (R232 301). In SA, the lowest revenue earners are beverage manufacturing stores (R39 944) and cosmetics, beauty supplies and perfume stores (R62 986). For deeper insights into how independent retailers are faring, Vend assessed the gross profit margins of Vend retailers and found that, on average, merchants have a margin of 53,33%, with North American retailers showing the highest average gross margin of 53,46% and South African retailers reporting the lowest, at 46,16% In SA the top gross margins are in jewellery, luggage and leather goods (66%), cosmetics and perfume (62%), home furnishings (59%) and shoe stores (58%). Lowest gross margins are reported by SA’s beverage manufacturing (12%) and sporting goods stores (28%). Not surprisingly, retailers that sell consumable goods – food and beverage stores and vape shops – have the highest transaction counts, while retailers that sell high-ticket items such as furniture, jewellery and shoes process the fewest transactions. By region, the average transaction value is highest in North America (R800) and lowest in SA (R529). Vend is a software-based retail platform that allows retailers to accept payments, sell in-store and online, manage their inventory, reward customer loyalty and report on their business in real time. To celebrate the launch of the report, Vend has also produced an interactive calculator – a platform which allows retailers to track their own business’s performance against competitors, both globally and locally. The calculator allows retailers to input their own data and track their performance across key metrics such as average monthly revenue, average gross margin, average number of monthly transactions, average transaction values, average basket size (number of items per sale) and average number of customers. * Research was conducted using US dollar values, rounded down and converted to South African rands as at the exchange rate on 20 June 2019.
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DID YOU KNOW?
Interesting facts 1
2
In some parts of Africa, as soon as livestock is killed for food, every part of the animal is used. The bones are usually crafted into jewellery for them. They believe that if a person is wearing many bits of bone jewellery, he is both wealthy and lucky.
The head or basket of a ring is the part that holds the centre stone. There are all kinds of heads, including simple prong heads, bezel, tension and more.
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Love brooches (or sweetheart brooches) were given by soldiers to their loved ones as they marched off to WWI. These brooches captured the passions of prior times and allowed the masses to experience the romance of giving or receiving them.
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Watermelon tourmaline displays banded colours that resemble a ripe slice of watermelon. The red or pink centre is surrounded by a rim of green, often separated by a sliver of pale pink or white.
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It is believed that a conch pearl is formed when an irritant, often a broken bit of shell, enters the queen conch, around which a calcareous concentration forms. These concentric layers of fibrous crystals build up around the irritant, in the same way as kidney stones grow in humans.
Zulu beadwork almost always involves communication between the sexes in regard to relationships. The only shape used by the Zulu in their bead jewellery is the triangle. How the triangles are positioned within a particular beadwork has different meanings.
3
A halo is a thin band of diamonds or metal around the centre stone. Halos come in all shapes, sizes and styles.
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It is considered the duty of every Maasai women to learn the jewellery-making craft. All the tribe's beadwork is made by the women, but is worn by both women and men. The beadwork an individual wears signifies their age and social status.
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If there is no air circulation and moisture where pearls are kept, their organic composition begins to change. As they dry out over time, such pearls lose their colour and become yellowish.
• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
GEMSTONES
A rare African gem
TANZANITE IS 1 000 TIMES RARER than diamonds – and rarer still are two staggeringly beautiful examples currently on public display at the Shimansky Jewellers Clock Tower Showroom at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront: a flawless 60,70ct polished stone and a 4 000ct rough stone – one of the largest tanzanite gemstones ever unearthed. The 60,70ct tanzanite was acquired in its original rough state by Shimansky Jewellers’ founder and CEO, Yair Shimansky, over eight years ago. Rated VAAA+ IF – internally flawless and therefore one of the highest-quality tanzanites ever discovered – it was carefully polished over the course of five months to bring out the true radiance of its deep indigo heart. The cut and polished gemstone is worth nearly R1 million and is a mesmerising example of the brilliance of tanzanite The other profoundly blue-violet 4 000ct stone was unearthed in the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and was left intact in its natural state, as one of the largest rough tanzanite gemstones ever discovered. No less beautiful than its smaller, polished cousin on display at the Clock Tower Showroom, it is a magnificent example of a uniquely African gem, over 585 million years in the making. Occurring exclusively in Tanzania and mined from a block just 4 km long, gem-quality tan-
Two very different flawless and fantastic tanzanite gemstones showcase the unique beauty of Africa at the Shimansky Jewellers Clock Tower Showroom. zanite supplies are set to be exhausted within the next decade – marking it as one of the world’s rarest precious gems. One of the gem’s most unique aspects is its trichroic colour, ranging from rich royal blues to vibrant shades of violet and flashes of red. Shimansky Jewellers has been sourcing the tanzanite used to crown its sought-after Ayanda, Queen of Tanzanite jewellery designs for over 20 years, contributing directly to the growth, sustainability and financial wellbeing of the Maasai tribes who own two of just four “blocks” of the tanzanite mining area. Each Shimansky tanzanite is hand-selected and hand-polished by the company’s expert
in-house gem-cutting and polishing craftsmen and – as with every Shimansky purchase – is supplied with an Ethical Compliance Certificate, assuring that the gemstone has been ethically sourced, according to international standards and fair trade. The Shimansky journey started in 1991 when Yair Shimansky arrived in SA, after spending two years in Japan. He started designing and crafting jewellery, which he sold at beachfront flea markets, before opening his first store in a popular South African shopping mall. This led to the launch of a full Shimansky Jewellery store two years later and a meaningful milestone in the brand’s journey. Today, the Shimansky name is world-famous for its trademark elegant and innovative jewellery designs which highlight the natural beauty of diamonds and tanzanites. Visit the Shimansky Jewellers Clock Tower Showroom to see these two amazing examples of one of the world’s rarest gems – and get a glimpse into the deep blue heart of Africa.
Tanzanite is 1 000 times rarer than diamonds – and rarer still are two staggeringly beautiful examples currently on public display at the Shimansky Jewellers Clock Tower Showroom at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront: a flawless 60,70ct polished stone and a 4 000ct rough stone – one of the largest tanzanite gemstones ever unearthed. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
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BRAND HISTORY
The Russian connection Until recently, no jewellery house has been allowed to penetrate the Kremlin – the walled, ancient citadel of the tsars which is now the residence of the Russian government. But a glimpse into the past reveals a long friendship between a Parisian jeweller and an old regime, which was recalled in a recent exhibition in Moscow. A UNIQUE EXHIBITION MOUNTED IN THE Kremlin of 165 pieces and 25 design sketches by French jewellery house Cartier, entitled Innovation Through the 20th Century, showcased its relationship with Russian aristocracy from 1890-1930. Cartier was founded by Alfred Cartier, who was eventually joined by his three adult sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques. The house’s relationship with the tsars began shortly after the French company was founded in Paris in 1847 and is recorded in its archives. Many of its designs are a reminder of the important influence Russia had on France and vice versa. The first registered Russian customer of the Paris-based jeweller was Prince Saltikov, who in 1860 purchased an emerald bracelet decorated with black enamel at the Cartier Paris boutique, then located at the Boulevard des Italiens. Tsar Alexander II and his two sons, Tsarevitch Alexander and Grand Duke Vladimir, were welcomed by Napoleon III at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1867 – coincidentally the year the first diamond was discovered in South Africa. Around that time, the first of Russia’s aristocrats were arriving in France, to which they had fled following the assassination of Tsar Alexander II in the streets of St Petersburg while he was travelling in his carriage. (There had been several previous attempts on his life.) The as-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
sassin was a representative of the revolutionary People’s Will Group (regarded as the first terrorist group), who threw a bomb into his carriage. It was a portent of things to come. By 1900, Cartier had met most of Russia’s high society. After the turn of the century, the firm moved to the Rue de la Paix – a prestigious address between the Place Vendôme and the Opera. The new premises featured a black marble façade and four display windows facing the main entrance, which led to the woodpanelled sales rooms. Business was brisk and Alfred’s eldest son, Louis, had by then joined the firm, which now assumed the appropriate title of Cartier et Fils. It was visited by Grand Duke Alexis, Admiral of the Russian fleet and Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna, the German-born Princess of Mecklenburg-Schwenin, wife of Grand Duke Vladimir. It was during this period that the Universal Exhibition took place in Paris, attracting many visitors. Members of the Russian aristocracy continued travelling to Paris and were delighted to find precious jewels that pleased their tastes, as well as the opportunity to meet royal personages such as Grand Duke Paul of Russia, Arthur, Duke of Connaught and England’s King Edward III and Queen Alexandra. A great event for Cartier was the first visit in 1907 of Tsarina Marie. It was Louis Cartier who named the family busi-
ness: “Jeweller to kings, king of jewellers”. His younger brother Pierre, meanwhile, travelled to St Petersburg and Moscow to select the best workshops which could fulfil Cartier’s orders from Paris. Production was expanded. Paris was cosmopolitan and adored everything Russian, especially its art, which brought with it the magical influence of the Orient. Cartier organised the first exhibition of Russian art at the Grand Palais in 1906. A great event for Cartier was the first visit in 1907 of Tsarina Marie. The bright colours of the costumes worn by the performers in Diaghilev’s ballet performances in Paris were a great success and were echoed in its jewels, prompting Cartier’s bold Art Deco designs and colour combinations. Cartier was subsequently appointed supplier to the court of Tsar Nicholas II and boasted among its clients Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna, wife of Grand Duke Vladimir. When World War I broke out in 1914, however, Cartier ended its visits to its Russian clientele. Relationships with the jeweller’s imperial customers did continue after the war, but on French, English and American soil. However, today there remain the photographs in Russia’s archives – and items which were displayed in the recent Moscow exhibition – of some of the illustrious clients who habitually visited Cartier, as well as the fabulous creations the jewellery house designed for them.
It was Louis Cartier who named the family business: 'Jeweller to kings, king of jewellers'. 21
BRAND MANAGEMENT
A mandatory matt look, discreet and intentionally elusive in its design. Rigorously monochrome, because it is specifically designed to merge into the surrounding background, whatever that may be, blending with its shades. It is therefore strategic. There are tendencies of dark green in its most powerful and material expression, historically strategic and immediately recognised – to the extent of assuming a military shade. Panerai has chosen this identifying colour for the dial of the four new Radiomir watches, reinforcing their strong historic identity. Four interpretations, unequivocally individual in their functions, dimensions and the materials of which they are made, but conceptually connected by a common visual code of recognition, as well as by the aesthetic language of the Radiomir case, with its characteristic cushion shape and integrated lugs, solidly constructed and representative of the “evolved” Radiomir of the 1940s. This was the period when Panerai came into prominence as the sole supplier of wristwatches to the Royal Italian Navy; timepieces which were specially developed with the essential functions required of the precision instruments designed to be used by its commandos. That military background is now echoed in a civilian context, with three models with cases 45 mm in diameter, made of AISI 316L steel and one model with a black sandblasted ceramic case 48 mm in diameter. In these watches the dense, non-reflective green becomes an element that expresses both a connection and a unique quality, as do the sapphire glass with its marked convexity, the beige shade of the luminescence and the Italian tanned natural leather strap. This is a historic heritage which has been perfectly capitalised and expressed.
Panerai’s new Radiomir models Sharing the same uniform, the new Radiomir with a green dial stands out from a mechanical point of view with a wide range of calibres, all entirely executed by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. The Radiomir – 45 mm (PAM00995) is fitted with the P.4000 calibre, Panerai’s thinnest automatic movement, and has two hands and a small seconds hand. Then there is the P.4001, a model developed to supply additional information such as a second time zone, AM/PM indication and the power reserve displayed on the back; this is the movement fitted to the Radiomir GMT – 45 mm (PAM00998). This mechanism was subsequently modified in the P.4002 version, which shows the power reserve indicator on the dial, a feature unique to the Radiomir GMT Power Reserve – 45 mm (PAM00999). Each of the three automatic movements has a bi-directional, off-centred micro-rotor in tungsten alloy and a power reserve of
Gucci forays into high-end jewellery Luxury fashion house Gucci has made a move into high jewellery with the inauguration of its first boutique and a collection by Creative Director Alessandro Michele. The store, which is dedicated exclusively to jewellery, opened on 2 July in Paris’s historic Place Vendôme and will display the new Hortus Deliciarum collection.
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The line features more than 200 pieces, mainly one of a kind. Each item was made in Italy and is centred around one of three themes: eternal love, the animal kingdom and solitaires. Examples include a 30,30ct opal, which has been hand-carved into a coiled serpent ring, flecked with diamonds. Although Gucci already sold fine jewellery,
three days. The only one with a hand-wound mechanical movement is the Radiomir – 48 mm, which is fitted with a P.3000 calibre indicating hours, minutes and small seconds. Water-resistant to 10 bars (a depth of about 100 m) and presented in a box of satin-finished green cherrywood, the new Radiomir watches are supplied with a spare strap, as well as the original one. These are in beige for the steel versions or black for the ceramic version, with two loops and functional reinforcing inserts in each of the holes in the green leather lining.
this is the first time it has branched into highervalue pieces. The new pieces are priced from US$56 129-US$898 065, a spokesperson for the brand confirmed. The brand’s move into high jewellery comes a day after its parent company, Kering, opened another store in the French capital’s Place Vendôme. Kering’s Chinese fine jewellery brand, Qeelin, unveiled its new boutique in the historic square on 1 July. – Rapaport
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
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WHY ADVERTORIALS
WHAT IS AN ADVERTORIAL?
An advertorial is an advertisement in the form of editorial content.
[Advertorial] = [Advertisement] + [editorial] Essentially, it’s your words, promoting your company or product…but it almost looks like a regular article in the magazine. It’s essentially an advert, that walks, talks and acts like an editorial. And when your advertorial looks like the rest of the magazine, you are able to use the connection that the magazine already has with its readers. In that way you are able to reach the readers more directly with your message. The difference between editorial and an advertorial is that regular editorial is the impartial viewpoint of the publication’s writer, it is not the writer’s duty to promote any one company – an advertorial or advertising does that. In an advertorial a company can make claims that is applicable to the company, something the publication’s writer cannot do in regular editorial or news as the editorial team cannot vouch for a private company. All advertorials will carry a small strap at the top indicating that it is an advertorial.
How to put an advertorial together? An advertorial is more detailed than an advertisement helping potential costumers understand more about your company or product. When writing an advertorial: • Focus on good content. The key selling point of the advertorial is the credibility it has “borrowed” from the publication it appears in. • Write an engaging headline. • Understand the product/brand. • Use a byline and photos. • Write an advertorial people will read. • Tell a story. Or get the capable writing team at SA Jewellery News to write it for you.
ADVERTORIALS WORK. Book yours in SA Jewellery News now. Advertorial rates are the same as SA Jewellery News’ normal advertising rates. Assistance with writing and layout will be done at no extra cost.
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LITTLE GEMS
There’s gold in them thar hills! The dusty mountain road through a dense forest, where elephants and buck once roamed, is torturous. For the hundreds of fortune-hunters who flocked to the area in the late 19th century, it was probably a dirt trail. But it represented access to a pot of gold and their search for El Dorado. Alice Weil revisits the track. CURRENTLY A GHOST TOWN in the Outeniqua Mountains on state forest land in the Knysna region, the eerie village of Millwood was once the centre of a gold rush following the discovery of a gold nugget in the Karatara River in 1876 by a local farmer. The news spread like wildfire and attracted diggers from as far afield as the USA, Britain and Australia to seek their fortune which, after hearing favourable reports, they believed lay there. The terrain was difficult and the imported steam engines and stamp batteries which were needed for crushing the ore were hauled into the deep kloof in wagons by oxen and human labour. Alluvial gold was located in the bronze waters flowing swiftly over the sun-bleached stones of the nearby creek and a tented village rapidly grew to accommodate the influx of the hardy fortune-hunters panning for gold.
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They were prepared to endure hard labour and makeshift conditions for the sake of the quick buck they hoped to make by striking it rich. By 1886, some 600 diggers and 400 permanent inhabitants were housed in tin and wooden dwellings in the village which derived its name, Millwood, from a small sawmill in the valley operated by Thesens; to this day, a large enterprise in the Knysna community. Apart from houses, there were hotels, shops, a bank, a post office and a music hall, all of which entitled Millwood to be proclaimed a town. Recovery of alluvial nuggets from the river bed and from gold-bearing quartz reefs (discovered through a series of shafts and tunnels) proceeded. Mining operations were established over a wide area by some 40 syndicates which raised funds to purchase or peg claims. One of these was the Bendigo Mine in the immediate vicinity of the mining town. The gold was there, alright, but extracting payable quantities from the Millwood Mine
was a challenge. Steam was produced by a fire-box and boiler which provided power to drive a fly-wheel connected by belts and pulleys to the machinery. Quartz was deposited into a crusher and then fed into a stamp battery. The resulting gravel was mixed with water, then poured into a wheeler pan to which mercury was added, forming an amalgam. In order to separate the gold, the amalgam was roasted with hot gas in a furnace. Primitive, perhaps, by present-day methods, but it worked. Sadly, Millwood’s days of glory were short-lived and the end was as dramatic as its boom. The mine suffered its death-knell with the discovery of gold on the Witwatersrand. The line of tin shanties has long been torn down, but one remains today which houses a museum of faded sepia photographs of the good ol’ days and a tea garden for visitors seeking to recall a piece of South Africa’s mining history. There is also a mining machinery exhibit to visit at the derelict Bendigo Mine. Reportedly, all that remains of the Millwood gold are four old wedding rings. Today, nature has overtaken the area and the indigenous forest bordered by fynbos covers the scars of both mining activities and human habitation. A few pieces of rusted machinery can still be found and the creek is tranquil, its waters giving no indication of past activity. But one can easily imagine the ghostly figures of rugged miners panning its banks in search of riches beyond their wildest dreams.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2019
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