SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • August 2022

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12. NEWS • Jewellex365 online trading platform is here • Vicenzaoro’s Jewellery Boutique Show to take place from 9-13 September • WDC President calls on KP to move forward or risk a two-tier market with dire consequences • Major countries ban import of Russian gold

16. ACCELERATING EQUAL OPPORTUNITY IN SOUTHERN AFRICA Through its Building Forever programme, the De Beers Group is committed to creating a positive impact that will endure well beyond the discovery of its last diamond. One of the goals of this programme is accelerating equal opportunity.

20. 10 INSPIRING WOMEN ON THE WOMEN WHO INSPIRE THEM For national Women’s Day, SAJN asked 10 women about the women who inspired them.

25. MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of SA initiative – extracts from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook.

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36. ANGELA YEUNG: WOMAN OF STATURE Through the Impilo Collection Foundation, prominent South African jewellery designer, entrepreneur and founder of Impilo Collection, Angela Yeung, has uplifted thousands of girls and women across SA.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

CO N T E N T S

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

33. PERIDOT: THE AUGUST BIRTHSTONE Peridot, spinel and sardonyx are the three birthstones for August.

The peridot birthstone is known for being formed under extreme conditions, as it can be found in the hardened lava which carried it from deep within the earth’s mantle, as well as in meteorites that travelled from outer space.

40. FASCINATING WOMEN WHO SHAPED THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY In recognition of the achievements of females all over the globe, the Natural Diamond Council has highlighted just a few of the women who have helped give the diamond industry its sparkle.

42. BORN IN AFRICA A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA’s members.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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Editor's note WE ARE ONCE AGAIN DEDICATING OUR August issue, the month in which we celebrate national Women’s Day, to the remarkable women of the diamond and jewellery industry. To the women who have broken barriers, stepped into commendable leadership roles or are working away quietly in the background.

For every woman contributing to a more equal future, there are women we look to for guidance and inspiration. In this issue, we asked eight women who, in some way, have served as industry trail-blazers about the women in their lives who inspire them.

Through its Building Forever programme,

and the first Woman of Colour Executive Member of the Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA, she founded Impilo Collection in 2005.

Besides being an award-winning jewellery designer, Yeung is also a philanthropist and founder of the Impilo Collection Foundation, which serves the community through its various humanitarian projects, including #EmpowerHer, The Humanity Driver, The Dignity Drive and Reading Buddies.

While putting this issue together, I took a moment to reflect on the women in my own life and their contribution in helping me become the person I am. My mother Kay, my sister Erica, my aunt Lizma, my friends

the De Beers Group is committed to creating a positive impact that will endure far beyond the discovery of its last diamond. One of the goals of this programme is accelerating equal opportunities and including gender parity for employees across its workforce. “By 2025, we’ll achieve 30% women’s representation across our workforce and 40% women’s representation in senior roles,” says the mining giant.

We also talk to Angela Yeung, an accomplished gemmologist with over 20 years’ experience who has made an indelible mark on South Africa. A former winner of the AngloGold Ashanti Design Competition

Anri and Alicia and my daughter Kaylin all inspire me daily to live life to the fullest. I have a set of influencers at work as well, who have guided me and made me a better professional, individual and colleague. To me, these women are absolutely synonymous with vigour, grit and a never-give-up fighting spirit.

Join me in celebrating the women in your life and take a moment to tell them that they matter.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JULY 2022

TRIBUTE

Industry stalwart Albert Maree passes away It was with great sadness that the industry learnt of the passing of Albert Maree, owner of Digital Wax, on 23 July. After almost four decades in the jewellery industry, Maree knew the value of sharing knowledge and experience, and devoted himself to doing so.

“I got to know Albert in the 1990s, when he did his trade test,” recalls Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA).

“His trademark for many years was his long hair. He was a quiet and humble person who served on many committees over the years and was a stalwart of our industry. He always gave of his time to share his expertise and he was a dear friend.”

“May Albert’s contribution to the modern jewellery manufacturing process in SA, as we know it today, be celebrated in his memory,” says Chris van Rensburg, JCSA Chairperson.

“Rest in peace, dear friend.”

Maree’s involvement in and passion for the jewellery industry began at a young age.

At the age of 15, he started making jewellery as a hobby. He was also the first pupil at Eldoraigne High School to do jewellery design for his art projects. After leaving school, he completed his formal apprenticeship with Erich Frey and became self-employed.

Maree was involved in many aspects of the industry and gained his qualifications in various fields.

In 1996, he did his formal trade tests in goldsmithing and setting. He was also the founder of Romancing the Stone, which he sold in 2000. In 2005, he founded Digital Wax with Eve Maree to promote digital design through Rhino and 3D printing in SA. He received

In January 2020, local refinery MetCon approached Maree to assist with the layout of its new factory and act as technical advisor on its Masterclass course, for which he helped compile and determine the guidelines

business mentorship.

Maree was also a judge at the PlatAfrica jewellery design competition for the past three years.

“Albert was one of the giants in the

his formal training for Rhino in Barcelona, Spain and – together with his goldsmithing and setting qualifications – was able to train and help people specifically in Rhino. In the late 2000s, he was approached to serve as a technical consultant at the Platinum Incubator (formerly the SEDA Platinum Incubator).

He was also one of the expert practitioners who helped put together the latest trade test for the Mining Qualifications Authority (MQA).

In 2010, he qualified as an assessor and moderator at the MQA and was registered as such. The following year, he was appointed to oversee the overall production and design for one of SA’s largest and most prominent jewellery retailers.

and criteria. The purpose of the course is to help practising jewellers to become more export-equipped. It also aims to take students out of their workplace environment, share knowledge with them and then send them back there to apply what they have learnt.

Maree was also involved with Fumana, which assembles young brands on a digital platform to expose them to a national and international market. During the first phase of the project, six jewellers were selected to have their designs showcased on the platform. Maree was part of their selection process and was involved in giving them guidance on costing, as well as o putting together collections to show uniformity. In addition, he provided them with general

jewellery industry. His focus was always on coaching and guiding others to improve their skills in the jewellery space,” says Charlotte Crosse of MetCon. “He contributed to the development of MetCon’s jewellery division and was instrumental in the creation of the Fumana brand. We’ll miss his love for life and enthusiasm for innovation.”

“When I entered the industry in my younger days, I often felt that people kept their cards close to their chest,” Maree told SAJN in an interview earlier this year. “That made me decide that I’d always share my knowledge with others.”

SAJN extends its deepest condolences to Maree’s family, friends and colleagues. He will be sorely missed.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

Maree’s involvement in and passion for the jewellery industry began at a young age. At the age of 15, he started making jewellery as a hobby. He was also the first pupil at Eldoraigne High School to do jewellery design for his art projects.

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The Jenna Clifford Collective opens in Pretoria Jenna Clifford, South Africa’s globally renowned jewellery designer, known for her unique customised creations which are sought after by some of the most recognised business icons and celebrities worldwide, has officially opened “The Jenna Clifford Collective” in Lynnwood Road, Die Wilgers in the east of Pretoria.

The Jenna Clifford Collective is a compilation of three exclusive brands passionate about jewellery, fashion and food, delivering an all-encompassing luxury experience in one setting. The trio has entwined to showcase Jenna Clifford’s iconic creations together with fine dining at the Aleia Restaurant and Quaintrelle Studios, a creative fashion emporium.

The Jenna Clifford Collective composes a symphony of experiences for visitors to choose from while enjoying the Aleia Restaurant run by Armand Greyling, renowned entrepreneur and Ramon Gouws, Executive Chef, co-founder of Appetite Fest and Director of Double Dutch SA. The wine bar and eatery showcase some of South Africa’s finest artists, namely Marion Agenbach, Mbongeni Fakudze and Afro’s.

A mix of minimalism and sophistication, Quaintrelle Studios, founded by Lisa Robinson, offers a space for make-up professionals, photographers, influencers and private clients to work on a range of styled photoshoots, set up by Authentic

by Design, which will supply furniture and pieces on order to ensure the space can be moulded into whatever is desired.

Titan sales recover after two years of disruption Sales bounced back at India’s Titan Company last quarter as the market stabilised following disruption resulting from COVID-19.

Jewellery revenue jumped 207% year on year for the three months ending 30 June, the retailer reported. Sales of watches and wearables leaped 158%, while CaratLane, Titan’s e-commerce jewellery brand, saw growth of 207%. The company, which owns the Tanishq brand, will release full data at a later stage.

The period “was a near-normal first [fiscal] quarter after a gap of two years”, management noted. A severe coronavirus wave forced many stores to close for several weeks in May 2021. Sales were weaker still from April to June 2020, when the first round of lockdowns took effect.

The company enjoyed strong demand related to the spring Akshaya Tritiya festival, which is considered an auspicious time for buying gold, it said. Overall ticket size improved slightly compared with the previous quarter. Sales of plain gold jewellery grew especially sharply, with studded items also returning to pre-pandemic levels. – Rapaport

TAG Heuer teams up with Netflix The Gray Man is one of Netflix’s biggest productions ever. It stars Ryan Gosling as Sierra Six, a top CIA mercenary who keeps his identity secret due to the sensitive missions he works on. But when he stumbles upon some dark secrets about the agency, the tables are turned and he becomes the target of one of the government’s top assassins. A global manhunt ensues.

Gosling picked the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands for his Gray Man. “As Gosling’s character assumes a variety of personas and encounters many different scenarios, this timepiece is the ideal choice. It keeps Sierra Six one step ahead of his enemies with

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its minimalist, uncluttered design.

Whether you’ve got to make a statement, a grand entrance or a quick exit, the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands is designed for every kind of high-pressure situation,” says the renowned watch brand.

The TAG Heuer Carrera collection was created as a tribute to the famously dangerous Carrera Panamericana auto race and was the first chronograph specifically designed for professional drivers.

The Gray Man was released on Netflix on 22 July.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

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Jewellex365 online trading platform is here The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) opened participation on the Jewellex365 B2B Hub in May 2022 and has offered participants an opportunity to promote their products and services to the trade.

The council’s special offer to participants was to exhibit without any cost on the industry’s first online business-to-business hub until 1 July and they can now display their wares on a six- or 12-month contract, with a further two months free of charge.

“Jewellex365 has replaced the physical Jewellex Africa – for now,” says Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO. “This decision was taken in keeping with

“The benefits of exhibiting on Jewellex365 are to offer a digital presence that can be reached worldwide 24/7, 365 days a year, with all products and services under one roof.”

the current industry needs and changing times. It’s been seen as a huge opportunity to connect manufacturers, wholesalers, importers, suppliers and service providers with industry buyers.”

The JCSA has helped exhibitors upload their information, products, services and catalogues.

The platform was opened for business to the retail trade on 1 June and all buyers who register on it will need to be vetted before access is granted.

“Our main objective will be ensuring that the participants’ offerings – such as exclusive discounts and the launching of new products and services – are promoted on an ongoing basis as a one-stop shop,” says Lloyd.

Another of the JCSA’s objectives is for the platform to become the trading hub of Africa and thereby offer international countries an opportunity to see what this continent has to offer.

“The benefits of exhibiting on Jewellex365 are to offer a digital presence that can be reached worldwide 24/7, 365 days a year, with all products and services under one roof. Images of products will be replaced as often as required, thereby ensuring that customers are always on the look-out for new products. There’ll also be links from the platform to websites and/or social media, as well as reductions in marketing and travel costs, providing opportunities for overseas sales,” says Lloyd.

With a database of 3 550 companies, the council is able to market the platform

to its audience via e-mail, industry websites, Facebook and its WhatsApp groups. In addition, it will utilise the networks of its industry publications, including SA Jewellery News, and their electronic communications to market the platform to local and international companies.

“We realise that Jewellex365 is a new concept that needs to be embraced by the industry and it will take time to build the platform to become a one-stop-shop.

We encourage our industry members to support this project, as it can only ever be as successful as the total sum of its participants,” says Lloyd.

Major countries ban import of Russian gold The USA, the UK, Canada and Japan have placed sanctions on the import of Russian gold in an effort to eliminate revenue used to fund President Vladimir Putin’s war on Ukraine.

The four countries recently decided to ban Russia’s biggest non-energy export at the G7 summit in Germany, said the UK government.

The remaining G7 participants – France, Italy and Germany – would likely follow suit, implied US President Joe in a tweet the same day.

“Together, the G7 will announce that we’ll ban the import of Russian gold, a major export that rakes in tens of billions of dollars

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

for Russia,” wrote Biden.

The ban, which is due to come into effect shortly, will apply to newly mined or refined gold but will not impact Russian-origin gold previously exported from that country, the UK explained. The countries currently have no plans to extend the restrictions to Russian gold purchased legitimately prior to the import ban.

“The measures… will directly hit Russian oligarchs and strike at the heart of Putin’s war machine,” said (then) UK Prime Minister Boris Johnson. “We need to starve the Putin regime of its funding.”

Russia earned US$15,52 billion from the export of gold last year, the UK government noted. London is a major gold-trading hub and the sanctions will have a “huge impact” on Russia’s ability to fund the war.

The new curbs follow the London Bullion Market’s suspension of six Russian refineries, as well as limitations by the USA, the UK and the European Union on transactions with Russian diamond miner Alrosa. The countries have also placed sanctions on more than 1 000 individuals and over 100 entities since the war started on 24 February. – Rapaport

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WDC President calls on KP to move forward or risk a two-tier market with dire consequences Highlighting the proven ability of natural diamond resources to serve as a driver for the development of sustainable economies and societies, World Diamond Council (WDC) President Edward Asscher warned that this potential would be threatened if the Kimberley Process (KP) did not evolve to address the challenges of today.

He was speaking during the opening day of the KP Intersessional in Kasane, Botswana, the country hosting the meeting. “[Botswana] is a shining example of how the good fortune to be home to diamond deposits can be properly leveraged to achieve substantial economic and social development for all of a country’s citizens.

Ultimately, isn’t that what we’re committed to in the Kimberley Process?” asked Asscher.

Since diamonds were discovered in Botswana in 1967, he said, its GDP per capita had grown at an average of 5,9% per year, the third-highest rate anywhere in the world over the past 55 years.

While the WDC was heartened by the progress made in 2021, when the KP Plenary ratified the Declaration for Responsible Sourcing of Rough Diamonds in the Supply Chain, including human rights requirements, it was keen to see this developing. “We believe more work is required to reform the KP and

have been candid about what we consider to be its shortcomings. Most critical is the narrow definition of ‘conflict diamonds’,” said Asscher.

The diamond industry, which was acutely attuned to sentiments related to responsible sourcing in the consumer markets, could not choose a path of inaction, he added.

“At present, we see a strong growth in industry solutions launched to support the traceability of rough diamonds from the mine to the consumer. I predict that the strong and fast development of these systems, often using blockchain technologies, will lead to a downgrading of the KP Certification Scheme, leading to a two-tier market for rough diamonds, about which I’ve frequently warned.”

One of the advantages of such proprietary systems, he said, was the total elimination of conflict diamonds from their supply chains.

However, the great disadvantage was that the systems would not be accessible to all companies, which could lead to the exclusion of certain mining areas and even certain producing countries. It could also exclude players in the midstream who were unable to find entry to such systems.

“Let’s not forget that natural diamonds have competition in the marketplace, most notably from laboratory-grown stones,” said Asscher. However, he stressed, from the perspective of social and economic

development, natural and laboratory-grown diamonds were significantly different.

“Laboratory-grown goods provide no economic and social benefit to nations or their people. Their sole benefit is to a few shareholders.

“While the WDC is politically neutral, it isn’t morally apathetic,” he said. “We’re deeply concerned about the safety of those affected by conflict, such as in Ukraine and the Central African Republic. We’re an organisation dedicated to the eradication of conflict and the pursuit of human rights and dignity. We therefore pray that peace is restored as soon as possible.

“As a KP observer representing the entire diamond industry value chain, the WDC remains committed to the Kimberley Process, especially as we know first-hand how diamonds do good to communities when managed properly.”

“At present we see a strong growth in industry solutions launched to support the traceability of rough diamonds from the mine to the consumer.”

Global jewellery initiative builds serious momentum Driven by a common conviction that the global 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and aspirations for a sustainable global jewellery and watch industry can only be achieved through collaborative efforts, Cartier, delegated by Richemont, and Kering launched the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 in October 2021.

Iris van der Veken, the former Executive

international relations, Van der Veken has more than 20 years of global experience working in fast-paced environments, including the technology, jewellery and fashion industries, as well as the public sector.

She has held different strategic leadership positions in the areas of public affairs, international relations, human resources, sustainability and operations. She is also a

JLF, JVC, Responsible Jewellery Council, WDC and WJA, along the value chain to deliver collective impact and drive consumer confidence,” says Van der Veken.

“I believe multi-stakeholder partnerships can truly accelerate the sustainability agenda and that reporting on measurable progress is critical to enhance trust and transparency.”

Since its inception, the Watch & Jewellery

Director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, has now been hired to head up the initiative.

Based in Geneva, Van der Veken will directly report to the board of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030.

With a background in law and

board member of ISEAL and Diamonds Do Good.

“I'm humbled and honoured to lead this C suite coalition. I look forward to working with our members and key stakeholders including BJOP, CIBJO, FH, FHH, GIT, GJPC ICA, JA,

Initiative has welcomed new members such as Chanel Horlogerie Joaillerie, Montblanc, Pandora, Rosy Blue and Swarovski to the fold.

They join founder members Cartier, Kering, Gucci Watches, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo and Qeelin.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

N E WS

Introducing JewelStart

Approach risk with purpose.

Vicenzaoro’s Jewellery Boutique Show to take place from 9-13 September A business showcase, a breeding ground for trends, innovation, information and training, a place for global networking, a reference point for the entire gold and jewellery supply chain, recognised and appreciated worldwide, Europe’s eagerly awaited international event for the gold and jewellery community will be back in Vicenza from 9-13 September 2022: VOS Vicenzaoro September – The Jewellery Boutique Show.

Running alongside – from 11-13 September – will be VO Vintage, the event open to the public, vintage watch and jewellery collectors and enthusiasts. It offers a chance to buy unique and valuable pieces, negotiate with the best dealers and catch up on the latest developments with sector experts on topics and trends in an exclusive and reserved area.

VOS, organised by the Italian Exhibition Group, will showcase a complete offering at the Vicenza Expo Centre: high-end

“It offers a chance to buy unique and valuable pieces, negotiate with the best dealers and catch up on the latest developments.”

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and gold jewellery, with the latest collections and the very best of Made in Italy production from the main national manufacturing districts, as well as topquality international companies.

Sector leaders will be displaying the most advanced technologies for production and processing, components and semi-finished products, diamonds and precious and coloured stones, services, visual merchandising and packaging.

Companies, buyers, traders, institutions, associations, media and new generations will be the centre and beating heart of the VOS format, providing a look at the present and the sector’s evolution, from internationalisation to corporate social responsibility, new technologies and communication. Thanks to the involvement of the city of Vicenza and the entire territory, Vicenzaoro will once again feature the all-round experience of a show both in and outside the exhibition grounds with the eighth edition of VIOFF, offering history, art, music, culture and unique food and wine, all waiting to be discovered.

Dear Members We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, offers entry-level, bespoke cover for entrepreneurs and small businesses.

“JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions for jewellery businesses that are navigating changing market conditions and challenges that have been exacerbated by the pandemic. It is ideal for new entrants to the jewellery industry or businesses that have had to adapt their strategy to operate in less conventional ways. For example, those servicing customers from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellery and Precious Assets.

Bryte is excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council, for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the new start-up jewellery business.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

brytesa.com SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Policy terms and conditions apply.

WO M E N I N B U S I N E S S

Through its Building Forever programme, the De Beers Group is committed to creating a positive impact that will endure well beyond the discovery of its last diamond.

One of the goals of this programme is accelerating equal opportunity.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

WO M E N I N B U S I N E S S

Accelerating equal opportunity in southern Africa THE GOALS OF THE DE BEERS GROUP’S Building Forever programme concentrate on four pillars where the mining giant believes it can make a meaningful impact: leading ethical practices, partnering for thriving communities, protecting the natural world and accelerating equal opportunity. With an ambitious vision for each, the four pillars are supported by 12 stretch goals, aligned to the national priorities and development plans of its partner countries and the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Its Building Forever 2030 goals aim to galvanise its employees and partners to achieve a shared vision for a better future.

“It’s our blueprint to a better future – one that’s fairer, safer, cleaner and healthier, where safety, human rights and ethical integrity continue to be paramount, where communities thrive and where the environment ‘s protected,” says the De Beers Group. “Building Forever sits at the heart of everything we do. From our mining operations in South Africa, Botswana,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

Namibia and Canada to the stores where we sell our diamonds, Building Forever – along with our purpose and values – guide our work, our decisions and our behaviours.”

Through this, De Beers focuses on creating equal opportunity for all across the entire diamond value chain and recognises that it takes continuous focus on identifying and removing systemic barriers to social and economic inclusion, and that equal opportunity will benefit us all.

Its 2030 goals for its Accelerating Equal Opportunity pillar focus on three key areas: an inclusive workplace, women in business and tech, and diverse talent in the diamond jewellery sector.

By 2030, it aims to achieve equal opportunities, including gender parity, for employees across its workforce. “By 2025, we’ll achieve 30% women’s representation across our workforce and 40% women’s representation in senior roles,” says the mining giant. “By 2025, we’ll achieve 85% on both our Inclusion Index and

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employee sustainable engagement score to demonstrate that all teams are committed to inclusive leadership, innovation and wellbeing. By 2025, we’ll identify and address the potential for bias in emerging technology throughout our business.”

By 2030, the group also aims to support 10 000 women entrepreneurs and engage 10 000 girls in science, technology, engineering and mathematics (STEM). “By 2025, we’ll have engaged 5 000 young women and girls in STEM activities through school workshops, undergraduate fellowships, scholarships and mentoring. By 2025, through our enterprise development programmes, we’ll have supported 5 000 women entrepreneurs and increased the income of those in our AWOME programme by an average of 25%.

We’ll continue to scale our partnerships with UN Women, local governments and NGOs in our southern African AWOME programme for female micro-entrepreneurs.”

In 2017, De Beers launched its Accelerating Women Owned Micro-Enterprises (AWOME) programme in partnership with UN Women and local government. The programme provides mentoring, network, business and life skills training, which in turn create new jobs, regular wages and a wider range of businesses to help local communities thrive.

A holistic model is employed, upskilling and equipping local trainers to ensure that the initiative endures far into the future.

Through the second phase of its UN Women partnership, in March 2021 the group committed a further US$3 million investment to extend the AWOME programme in southern Africa as part of its Building Forever 12 goals.

In its latest report, which was recently released, De Beers outlines the strong progress made towards the achievement of its goals.

To date, more than 1 800 women entrepreneurs have been supported in growing their businesses. The programme has further engaged 1 500 girls in STEM in southern Africa, in partnership with WomEng and provided 21 scholarships to women studying STEM at university in Canada, in partnership with UN Women and Scholarships Canada.

The programme further awarded 12 young jewellery designers in De Beers’ host countries training opportunities through the company’s Shining Light Awards competition.

In the first full year since announcing the 12 goals, De Beers made meaningful progress

18

SUPPORTING GENDER EQUALITY THROUGH MARKETING When the De Beers Group partnered with UN Women in 2017, it made a commitment to ensure that its marketing campaigns would serve as a positive force for gender equality.

Since then, it has been working hard to develop advertising campaigns which challenge beliefs, seek new perspectives and create realistic and positive portrayals of all genders and relationships, guided by its inclusive marketing guidelines.

As a result, Forevermark’s bridal campaign, “I Take You, Until Forever”,

in each of its priority focus areas – leading ethical practices, protecting the natural world, partnering for thriving communities and accelerating equal opportunity – despite ongoing challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic, which continued to impact the company’s operating environment in 2021.

Beyond its Building Forever sustainability commitments, the group continued to make a vital contribution to its host countries and communities through tax and royalty payments, employment and local procurement, which totalled US$4,7 billion in 2021. In addition, 80% of the revenue generated by the company’s operations remained within host countries.

“As the first full year since announcing our ambitious 2030 sustainability goals, last year was a pivotal year for our business,” says Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group. “We embedded the goals into our operational and commercial frameworks, established critical foundations and

celebrates everyday moments of real love and honest vows, portraying a diverse mix of couples in an equal light. It also shows a woman proposing to a man for the first time, challenging traditional stereotypes.

De Beers Jewellers champions natural beauty in all of its marketing campaigns. Its Horizon campaign was the first of its type, with minimal post-production retouching, promoting realistic and positive portrayals of women, while its Nature’s Wonders, As Individual As You campaign celebrates three remarkable women, each with unique talents, honed over the course of their lives.

“Inspiring and supporting women has always been at the heart of the brand. I truly hope that by shining a light on incredible women, we’ll inspire future generations to challenge gender stereotypes and follow their dreams,” says Jennie Farmer, Brand and Product Marketing Director of De Beers Jewellers.

partnerships, engaged with stakeholders and took tangible steps forward, all while continuing to operate against a backdrop of COVID-19. Our Building Forever sustainability goals underpin our commitment to creating a better future for people and the planet and we’ll continue building on our strong momentum throughout 2022 and beyond.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

N°115

10

N AT I O N A L WO M E N’S DAY

inspiring women on the women who inspire them In honour of national Women’s Day, SAJN asked 10 women in the industry about the women who inspired them.

1

Tsholofelo Tselapedi Marketing and Communication Manager: The State Diamond Trader A woman who played a significant role in my life is Nametsegang Pearl Matthews and she still does. She was my immediate manager and we became close. Our relationship grew – I guess because of her good heart, as well as my wanting to learn so I could become a better marketing and communication professional. I met her during the early stages of my career and since then, she’s been my pillar of strength, my mentor and my go-to person when things are tough in the

corporate world. She’s always encouraged me not to settle for less and to ensure that I have a voice regarding matters that concern my well-being, be it at work or at home. One thing I also learnt from her is that it’s possible to reach the sky, as long as you stay focused.

Nametsegang gives me a hand in times of need. She also taught me to dress well and take my image seriously, especially as a professional. With all her teachings, advice and career planning, I’ve been able to do well in my career and I’m blessed to have her by my side. I believe that to be a strong woman, you need a strong one to lead you.

With all her teachings, advice and career planning, I’ve been able to do well in my career and I’m blessed to have her by my side.

2

Nicole Ramsden Ramsden Diamonds The woman who inspires me is not only near and dear to my heart, but she represents a woman in many other households as well.

Ossie Sibanda is my domestic helper. As South African business-owners, we have many daily challenges and our hours can be long and unpredictable. Having a woman whom I can trust to oversee my home and my family is a great privilege and a huge relief.

Ossie’s intelligent and caring, and oversees everything from builders and delivery men to our furry babies. In short, she ensures

20

that our home is our haven after a long day’s work. Not only is she important to us, but she’s a strong mother and wife, an upstanding member of her community and a Sunday school teacher. She adds value to everyone in her life.

So I'd like to take this opportunity to thank her and all the women behind the scenes whom we often take for granted. You assist us in our homes and with our families and by helping with that load, you make it possible for us to come to work – which, in turn, allows us to provide employment for others.

We appreciate you!

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

N AT I O N A L WO M E N’S DAY

4

Sofia Costaras MD: Italchain The woman who inspires me most is my mother. She has the kindest, most unique heart and soul. The love and care she gives to her children, whom she always puts first, go beyond measures.

She’s always looked after herself and still does, from her hair to her nails, her general appearance and her weight.

I look up to my mom and admire her for being so beautiful. She’s a pure example of the perfect mother, in my eyes.

6

Sibongile Purity Shongwe Chief Executive Officer: The Platinum Incubator There are many women who’ve played a significant and inspirational role in my life.

However, one in particular who’s helped me become the person I am today is my mother, Duduzile Mavis Mokoena. I owe a great deal of who I am today to her.

She’s always been and remains a pillar of strength for me.

3

Jackie Mapiloko Corporate Communications Manager: De Beers Group The month of August marks 17 years since we laid my inspirational woman to rest – my beloved grandmother, Esther Puleng Thebe.

I learnt how to construct my first English sentence on the cold red concrete floor of her living room. Well before I registered for Grade 1, I could read, write and recite poetry.

She was a teacher by profession and our home was an extension of her classroom.

Affectionally known as Ma’am Thebe, my grandmother was the pillar of our community. She opened her home and her heart to those in need and shared her wisdom with a warm smile that could turn a grey sky blue. She preached to anyone who cared to listen about the power of education.

She introduced ABET evening classes, a one-of-a-kind initiative in our community. My cousins and I spent many late nights teaching the elderly how to read and write – a dream come true for her. She was a mentor to many, but to me, she was and still is the ultimate love of my life.

She never got to see me achieve my dreams – between Alzheimer’s disease and cancer, she never stood a chance. But her love and life lessons remain a huge part of my journey as a woman, mother, friend and a professional. How blessed I am to have known such an inspirational woman!

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

5

Jenny Justus Director: Brand Strategy: Isikhova Media I’m blessed and grateful to be surrounded by many inspiring and strong women. One of them is my sister Marlene. My two sisters and I took a trip together earlier this year and during our trip, Marlene suffered a heart attack and was rushed to hospital. I’ve been deeply touched and amazed by her incredible strength. Since then, she’s had open heart surgery, a stroke, COVID-19, bronchitis and has been diagnosed with diabetes. There was a time when she was unable to move or utter a word. By the grace of God, a team of incredible doctors and specialists, the unwavering support of her friends and family and her remarkable and inspiring fighting spirit, she’s now home again and doing well.

Although she won’t be able to work in the medical field again and isn’t allowed to drive for months, she’s still in great spirits. I’m incredibly proud to have her as a sister.

I’m blessed and grateful to be surrounded by many inspiring and strong women.

21

N AT I O N A L WO M E N’S DAY

8

Karlien du Plessis Founder and owner: Karlien Designs As a woman in a creative industry, I find it easy for life’s waves to knock the wind and inspiration out of me. I’ve tried to think of who’s inspired me most, but it’s impossible. I really have a village – or, rather, an army – of strong, courageous, inspirational women who’ve carried me through the most difficult season I’ve ever experienced. They not only helped me survive, but supported me with my business and kept me inspired and uplifted.

7

Thuli Ndlovu Strategic Manager: Diamonds and Jewellery A woman who’s played a significant role in my life is Jane Hamilton. In 2004, she was the one who hired me. She was not only a valuable mentor, but a wonderful friend who's been there for me during the best times, as well as the hard times in my life. She saw potential in me and helped me achieve my goals and 18 years later, I’m still at Brinks. She's an ethical, visionary, charismatic and agile leader. I'm also grateful to the role my late mom and aunt played in my life. They always believed in me and constantly reminded me that by putting my faith in God, nothing is impossible. I'm also truly grateful to my sisters, who are my biggest cheerleaders and to the many other women in the industry who've always been supportive and encouraging. I owe much of who I am to all of these remarkable women.

9

Jacqui Barnard Procurement and Sales Manager: AU Traders & Refiners How do I choose just one woman who’s inspired me and played a significant role in my life? I could make a list of them – women who, from nothing, are building and managing successful businesses, while breastfeeding, changing nappies, doing the laundry and making sure supper’s on the table.

Truly, though, there’s one woman who’s been steadfast and solid throughout my life (second only to my mom): my sister, Beverly Nortje.

I’m inspired by her lack of egocentricity, her ability to love unconditionally, her effervescent, beautiful character and her undying adoration and devotion to her family and friends. She’s just naturally kind and forgiving.

She never takes from anyone, but only gives of herself. She’ll be your biggest supporter and rally for your cause, no matter who you are, what you do or what you’ve done. You need only meet Beverly once to feel her warmth, her love and her genuine concern for your well-being (and she’ll never forget your birthday!). In her, you have a friend for life.

For me, these qualities in any person are inspiring.

10

Noxy Mseleku Founder and owner: Elegant Jewellers As an entrepreneur in the jewellery manufacturing industry, it’s been quite a journey, which I wouldn’t have managed to pull off if it hadn’t been for the strengths and teachings of my mother, Zanele Magwaza.

My childhood wasn’t rosy, but my mother made sure that she taught us a better way of life.

She’s a businessperson who never had a chance to get a formal education, but with the few resources she had and a great mind, she made the most of every opportunity. My resilience and eagerness to succeed definitely come from her.

She’s a businessperson who never had a chance to get a formal education, but with the few resources she had and a great mind, she made the most of every opportunity. My resilience and eagerness to succeed definitely come from her.

22

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

BOOKINGS OPEN FOR

20 22

SPRING/SUMMER EDITION

SPRING/SUMMER

B I  A N N U A L

D I R E C T O R Y

For more information or to book your space, contact: Ruwayda Mahomed / 011 883 4627 / ruwayda@isikhova.co.za

COV E R F E AT U R E

The market power of women Female investors are on the rise – and they are interested in smart, ethical, beautiful investments. Though there are still considerable gaps between men and women in the investment landscape, women are ready to step into their glittering financial power.

Invest more According to Fidelity, female investors are on the rise. An emerging trend accelerated by the pandemic, the market has seen a 50% increase in active female investors since 2018.

Women are no longer passively involved in investing. Forbes Advisor states that females spend more time researching investment options, take on appropriate levels of risk and hold investments over the long term – all findings that make for better outcomes.

In addition to traditional investments, women are turning to wealth products (Below, from left): Lèan Maritz, COO and Helen Viljoen, founder and CEO, both of Nebü Gold.

24

and, critically, wearable bullion, to bolster their portfolio. Precious metals are a wise, profitable and – let us say it! – sexy way to diversify. Fiat money or currency value has fallen since 1975, whereas precious metals have leaped in value (think thousands of percent). Gold, especially, is seen as a safe haven, with good reason. At the time of writing (August 2022), the gold price had hit an all-time high – testament to keeping value in truly volatile markets.

Then there is the beauty of investment jewellery. What could be better than wearing one’s glowing, growing liquid asset?

Invest beautifully An excellent case study is Nebü and its pioneering bullion collection of 99,99% gold and 99,95% platinum jewellery. Femalefounded and female-run by Helen Viljoen and her team, the entity is dedicated to creating enduring treasures. The team deliver pure authenticity and fundamental, intrinsic investment value through bullion-grade investment jewellery. Each piece, sold by weight, may be objectively valued anywhere, anytime, using the international standard gold or platinum price.

“The traditional narrative was that a woman’s partner would manage her portfolio. We’ve found that women, especially our customers, are more financially savvy.

They have a great desire to make smart purchases and investments. They want to know what their dollar/ rand/pound is paying for,” says Viljoen.

“Furthermore, women who’re currently investing in bullion bar and coins want to move their investments to wearable bullion for the perfect balance of utility and aesthetic. They get to appreciate their investment piece,

while it appreciates for them.”

Add to that the responsibly sourced precious metal supplied by MetCon to both parties, as well as the fact that 24ct gold is infinitely recyclable, and we are talking about a sustainable, value-added loop for all.

This is an enduring trend, driven by women who want their purchase to mean something, make something and sustain a healthier economy. Where will the flighty whims of spendthrift women take us next?

We cannot wait!

Invest wisely If you have yet to catch the wave, here are some tips: 1. Buy your investment jewellery or wealth products from a reputable, authentic supplier. An investment product should come with an assay or authenticity certificate certifying the purity of metal.

Gold-plated jewellery will not cut it, unfortunately. You are here for the genuine stuff.

2. Get your piece appraised by a professional, either your supplier or a third party.

Understand the worth of the investment and what the return may be.

3. Ensure that you insure. Using your appraisal, get insurance for the investment period. The risk of not doing so is simply not worth it.

4. Buy something you love! In the same way that artworks are assets, a wealth investment should set both your aesthetic heart and your portfolio on fire.

Discover more at: Metcon.co.za | nebugold.com All precious metal supplied by MetCon is subject to rigorous, responsible sourcing, as guided by our membership of the Responsible Jewellery Council. MetCon holds dual certification in the form of Chain of Custody and Code of Practice.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

R E S P O N S I B L E J E WE L L E RY

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

25

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

ISSUE ISSUE 23 32

PART III REFERENCE GUIDE

USEFUL TABLES AND LISTS BIRTHSTONES AND WEDDING ANNIVERSARY GIFT LISTS As developed and endorsed by the American Gem Society, the Cultured Pearl Ass and the US Jewelery Industrial Council.

WEDDING ANNIVERSARY GEMSTONE LIST YEAR

GIFT

YEAR

WEDDING ANNIVERSARY GIFT LIST

GIFT

YEAR

GIFT

YEAR

GIFT

1

Gold jewellery

17

Watches

1

Clocks

23

Silver plate

2

Garnet (all colours)

18

Cat’s-eye

2

China

24

Musical instruments

3

Pearls

19

Aquamarine

3

Crystal, glass

25

Silver

4

Blue topaz

20

Emerald

4

Appliances

26

Pictures

5

Sapphire (all colours)

21

Iolite

5

Silverware

27

Sculpture

6

Amethyst

22

Spinel (all colours)

6

Sweets, iron, wood

28

Orchids

7

Silicon chip equipment

29

Furniture

8

Bronze, pottery

30

Diamond

9

Linen, lace

31

Timepieces

10

Leather

32

Vehicle

11

Jewellery

33

Amethyst

12

Pearls, colour gems

34

Opal

13

Textiles, furs

35

Jade

14

Gold jewellery

36

Bone china

15

Watches

37

Alabaster

16

Silver hollowware

38

Beryl, tourmaline

17

Furniture

39

Lace

18

Porcelain

40

Ruby

19

Bronze

45

Sapphire

7

Onyx

23

Imperial topaz

8

Tourmaline

24

Tanzanite

9

Lapis lazuli

25

Silver jubilee

10

Diamond jewellery

26

Pearl jubilee

11

Turquoise

35

Emerald

12

Jade

40

Ruby

13

Citrine

45

Sapphire

14

Opal

50

Golden jubilee

15

Ruby

55

Alexandrite

16

Peridot

60

Diamond jubilee

Similar lists have been in use since the 19th century and are continuously updated to accommodate the changes in fashion, technology and the needs of consumers.

BIRTHSTONE GEM LIST MONTH

GEMSTONE

MONTH

GEMSTONE

20

Platinum

50

Gold jewellery

JAN

Garnet

JULY

Ruby

21

Brass, nickel

55

Emerald

FEB

Amethyst

AUG

Peridot

22

Copper

60

Diamond

MARCH

Aquamarine

SEPT

Sapphire

APR

Diamond

OCT

Opal, tourmaline

MAY

Emerald

NOV

Citrine, tanzanite

JUNE

Pearl

DEC

Turquoise

The traditional list included paper, cotton, etc and was much shorter.

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 32 GEMSTONES

TEMPLATE TO USE FOR FINGER SIZING - COPY AND CUT OUT •

Copy this diagram and cut out ring sizer below.

•

Insert the pointed end through the slit to form a circle with the numbers facing outwards.

•

Place finger inside circle, pull snugly and read the finger size as indicated.

MAKE YOUR OWN FINGER SIZER European notation READ FINGER SIZE HERE

Cut slit here

40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80

40 mm Cut along outline

80 mm

Inner circumference of ring in mm

INTERNATIONAL RING SIZE COMPARISONS USA

JAPAN 1

1

1,5

2

3

4

5

3

6

3,5

7

4

8

4,5

9

5,5 6

A

2

2,5

5

BRITISH EUROPEAN

10

11

12

B

C

38 39 40

41

D

42

E

43 44

F

G

45

46

H H1/2

47

I I1/2

48

J K L

49

50 51 52

INSIDE DIAM mm 12,06 12,10 12,34 12,41 12,46 12,73 12,75 12,85 13,05 13,16 13,25 13,56 13,60 13,83 13,94 14,03 14,32 14,37 14,42 14,62 14,78 14,82 15,01 15,19 15,21 15,28 15,41 15,60 15,61 15,81 16,00 16,20 16,40

USA 6,5 7

7,5

8 8,5

JAPAN

BRITISH EUROPEAN M

53

13

N N1/2

54

14

O

15

O1/2 P

16

Q R

9

18

9,5

19

S S1/2

20

T

10

21

10,5

22

T1/2 U

11

23

11,5

25

12

25

12,5 26

U1/2 V

55

56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64

V1/2

65

W

66 67

X Y

Y1/2 Z Z1/2

68 69

INSIDE DIAM mm 16,79

16,82 16,99 17,22 17,38 17,57 17,63 17,78 17,97 18,04 18,36 18,45 18,76 18,87 19,10 19,15 19,30 19,55 19,73 19,76 19,93 20,14 20,33 20,53 20,60 20,74 20,01 21,12 21,41 21,71 21,82 21,91 22,11

ISSUE 32

PLEOCHROISM OF THE MOST IMPORTANT GEMSTONES

DIAMETER (mm) VS CARAT WEIGHT FOR WELL-PROPORTIONED ROUND BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS

S = Strong, D = Distinct, W = Weak

Dia mm

Weight ct

Dia mm

Weight ct

Dia mm

Weight ct

1,1

0,005

3,8

0,20

5,8

0,71

Beryl

light blue and darker blue (W-D)

1,3

0,01

3,9

0,22

5,9

0,75

Corundum

dark violet-blue and light greenish-blue (S)

1,5

0,015

4,0

0,23

6,0

0,79

Iolite

colourless to yellow, blue and dark bluish-violet (S)

Tanzanite

blue, purple and greenish-yellow (S)

Topaz

colourless and light blue (W-D)

Tourmaline

dark blue and light blue (S) medium blue and colourless to grey (S)

BLUE GEMSTONES Apatite

blue and yellow(S)

1,7

0,02

4,1

0,25

6,1

0,83

1,8

0,025

4,2

0,27

6,2

0,87

2,0

0,03

4,3

0,30

6,3

0,91

Zircon

2,2

0,04

4,4

0,31

6,4

0,96

GREEN GEMSTONES

2,4

0,05

4,5

0,33

6,5

1,00

Andalusite

brownish-green and dark red (S)

2,6

0,06

4,6

0,36

6,6

1,05

Alexandrite

dark red, orange and green (S)

2,7

0,07

4,7

0,38

6,7

1,10

Emerald

green and blue-green (S)

Topaz

blue-green and light green (D)

2,8

0,08

4,8

0,40

6,8

1,15

Tourmaline

blue-green to dark br-green and yel-green (S)

2,9

0,09

4,9

0,43

6,9

1,20

Zircon

brownish-green and green (W-D)

3,0

0,10

5,0

0,46

7,0

1,25

YELLOW GEMSTONES

3,1

0,11

5,1

0,49

7,4

1,50

3,2

0,125

5,2

0,51

7,8

1,75

3,3

0,14

5,3

0,54

8,2

2,30

3,4

0,15

5,4

0,58

8,6

2,20

PURPLE AND VIOLET GEMSTONES

3,5

0,16

5,5

0,61

8,90

2,50

Amethyst

purple and reddish-purple (W-D)

3,6

0,17

5,6

0,65

9,3

3,00

Sapphire

violet and orange (S)

3,7

0,18

5,7

0,68

10,3

4,00

Kunzite

violet to purple and colourless to pink (S)

Tourmaline

purple and light purple (S)

Beryl

light greenish-yellow and light blue-green (W)

Chrysoberyl

colourless, v light yellow and greenish-yellow (D)

Topaz

brownish-yellow, yellow and orange-yellow (D)

Zircon

yellow-brown and yellow (W)

BROWN AND ORANGE GEMSTONES Sapphire

yellowish-brown to orange and colourless (S)

Smokey quartz brown and reddish-brown (W)

Topaz

yellow-brown and brown (D)

Tourmaline yellowish-brown and dark greenish-brown (S) Zircon

brownish-yellow and purplish-brown (W-D)

RED AND PINK GEMSTONES Andalusite

dark red and brownish-red (S)

Alexandrite dark red, orange and green (S) Morganite

light red and reddish-purple (D)

ISSUE 32

continued

Ruby

purplish-red and orange-red (S)

Rose quartz

brownish-red to light pink (S)

Synthetic corundum

purplish-red and orange-red (S)

Kunzite

light red to purple and colourless (S)

Topaz

light red and yellow (D-S)

Tourmaline

dark red and light red (S)

Zircon

reddish-purple and reddish-brown (D)

HARDNESS OF THE MOST IMPORTANT GEMSTONES Gemstone

Moh’s hardness

Gemstone

Moh’s hardness

Diamond

10

Nephrite

6-6,5

Corundum & syn

9,25

Pyrite

6-6,5

Chrysoberyl

9

Labradorite

6

Cubic Zirconia

8,5

Hematite

5,5-6

BIREFRINGENCE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT GEMSTONES

YAG

8,25

Moldavite

5,5

GEMSTONE

Spinel & syn

8

Opal

5-6,5

Topaz

8

Glass

5-6

Beryl & syn Emer

7,5-8

Lapis lazuli

5-6

Zircon (med-high)

7,5

Turquoise

5-6

Zircon (low)

Almandite garnet

7,5

Sodalite

5-6

Beryl

,005-,009

Rhodolite garnet

7-7,5

Sphene

5-5,5

Pyrope garnet

7-7,5

Obsidian

5-5,5

Corundum

,008

Spessartite garnet

7-7,5

Apatite

5

Topaz

,008

Tourmaline

7-7,5

Turquoise synthetic

5+

Chrysoberyl

,009

Andalusite

7-7,5

Opal synthetic

4,5

Quartz

,009

Iolite

7-7,5

Fluorite

4

Grossular garnet

7

Rhodochrosite

3,4-4,5

Jadeite

,013

Quartz & syn

7

Malachite

3,5-4

Spodumene

,016

Chalcedony

7

Coral

3,5-4

Tourmaline

,018-,120+

Peridot

6,5-7

Mother-of-pearl

3,5

Peridot

,036

Jadeite

6,5-7

Calcite

3

Andradite garnet

6,5-7

Verdite

3

Dioptase

,053

Zircon(low)

6,5

Pearl

2,5-4,5

Zircon

up to ,059

GGG

6,5

Jet

2,5-4

Sphene

,134

Zoisite (tanzanite)

6-7

Serpentine

2-4

Calcite

,172

Rutile & syn

6-6,5

Amber

2-2,5

Orthoclase (moonstone)

Alabaster

2

Malachite

,250

6-6,5

Rutile (synthetic)

,287

Steatite (soapstone)

1-1,5

BIREFRINGENCE

Apatite

,002-,006

Emerald (syn flux)

,003 ,005

ISSUE 32

REFRACTIVE INDEX (RI) OF THE MOST IMPORTANT GEMSTONES Gemstone Rutile & syn

O ray

Isotropic

2,616

E ray 2,903

Gemstone

1,644 (+,006)

Topaz

1,619 (+,010)

1,627 (+,010)

Turquise & syn

1,61

1,65

1,612

1,643

Strontium titanate

2,409

Lazulite

Cubic zirconia

2,17 (+,03)

Bakelite

GGG

2,02 1,984

Sphene

-1,90 (+,018)

2,034 (+,02)

Zircon (med)

1,875 (+,045)

1,905 (+,075)

1,606

1,632

Rhodochrosite

1,597

1,817

Verdite

1,583 (+,017)

Gilson

1,571

1,579

Hydrothermal

1,568 (+,02)

1,573 (+,02)

Flux grown

1,561

1,564

Serpentine

1,56 (-,07)

1,570 (-,07)

1,56 (+,01)

1,57 (+,01)

1,559

1,568

Quartz & syn

1,544 (+,000)

1,553 (+,000)

Iolite

1,542 (-,010,+,002)

1,551 (-,01,+,045)

Beryl

YAG

1,833

Synthetic emerald 1,815 (+,03)

Spessartite garnet

1,81 (+,01)

Almandite garnet

1,79 (+,30)

Corundum

1,762 (-,003,+,007)

1,770 (ditto)

Synthetic corundum 1,762 Rhodolite garnet Benitoite

1,76 (+,01) 1,757

1,804 1,746 (-,026,+,01)

Pyrope garnet Chrysoberyl

1,770

1,746 (+,004)

1,755 (+,005)

Synthetic alexandrite 1,742 (+,004)

1,751(+,005)

Grossularite garnet

1,73(+,01)

Rhodonite

1,73

1,94

Taaffeite

1,719

1,723 1,718 (-,006,+,044)

Spinel

1,58 1,577 (+,016)

1,875(+,02)

1,810 (+,03)

1,61 (+,06)

Nephrite

Andradite garnet

Zircon (low)

E ray

1,624 (+,005)

2,417

1,925

Isotropic

Tourmaline

Diamond

Zircon (high)

O ray

Coral (black & golden) Labradorite (feldspar)

Amber Chalcedony

1,540 1,535

1,539

Orthoclase (feldspar) 1,518

1,526

Lazurite (lapis lazuli)

1,500 1,500

Kyanite

1,716 (+,004)

1,731 (+,004)

Obsidian

Zoisite (tanzanite)

1,691 (+,002)

1,704 (+,003)

Calcite

1,486

1,658

Diopside

1,675 (-,01,+,027)

1,701(ditto)

Coral

1,486

1,658

Jadeite

1,66 (+,007)

1,68 (+,009)

Malachite

1,66

1,91

Spodumene

1,66 (+,005)

1,676 (+,005) 1,66 (+,020)

Jet

Sodalite

1,483 (+,003)

Glass (normal)

1,48-1,70

Glass (extreme)

1,44-1,77

1,655 (+,01)

1,708 (+-,012)

Moldavite

1,48

Peridot

1,654 (+,02)

1,690 (+,02)

Opal

Apatite

1,642 (-,012,+,003)

1,646 (ditto)

1,45 (-,080,+,020)

Andalusite

1,634 (+,006)

1,643(+,004)

Synthetic opal

1,44

Fluorite

1,434

Dioptase

ISSUE 32

SPECIFIC GRAVITY (SG) OF GEMSTONES SG IN DESCENDING VALUES GEMSTONE

SG

Andalusite

3,17 (+,04)

Tourmaline

3,06 (-,05+,15)

Syn cubic zirconia

7,50 (+,30)

Nephrite

2,95 (+,05)

Hematite

5,20 (+,20)

Conch pearl

2,85

Strontium titanate

5,13 (+,02)

Turquoise

2,76 (-,45+,08)

Pyrite

5,00 (+,10)

Lapis lazuli

2,75 (+,25)

Marcasite

4,85 (+,05)

Beryl

2,72 (-,05+,12)

Zircon (high)

4,70 (+,03)

Pearl

2,70 (-,02+,15)

Zircon (medium)

4,32 (+,25)

Labradorite

2,70 (+,05)

Spessartite

4,15 (+,03)

Calcite

2,70

Almandite garnet

4,05 (+,02)

Syn emerald

2,67 (+,03)

Zircon (low)

4,00 (+,07)

Quartz & syn

2,66 (+,01)

Corundum & syn

4,00 (+,03)

Syn turquoise

2,66

Rhodolite garnet

3,84 (+,10)

Coral

2,65 (+,05)

Pyrope garnet

3,78 (-,16+,09)

Iolite

2,61 (+,05)

Chrysoberyl

3,73 (+,02)

Chalcedony

2,60 (+,05)

Syn alexandrite

3,71 (+,02)

Serpentine

2,57 (+,06)

Syn spinel

3,64 (-,12+,02)

Moonstone

2,56 (+,01)

Grossularite

3,61 (-,27+,12)

Obsidian

2,40 (,07+,10)

Spinel

3,60 (-,03+,30)

Moldavite

2,40 (+,04)

Topaz

3,53 (+,04)

Alabaster

2,30

Diamond

3,52 (+-,01)

Glass

2,3 to 4,5

Peridot

3,34 (-,03+,14)

Sodalite

2,24 (+,05)

Jadeite

3,34 (+,04)

Chrysocolla

2,20 (+,10)

Zoisite (tanzanite)

3,30 (+,01)

Opal

2,15 (,09+,07)

Fluorite

3,18 (+,01)

Syn opal

2,05 (+,03)

Apatite

3,18 (+,02)

Coral (black)

1,35 (+,05)

Spodumene (kunzite)

3,18 (+,03)

Jet

1,32 (+,02)

ISSUE 32

GEMSTONES IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER GEMSTONE

SG

Agate

2,65

Almandite garnet

4,05

Alexandrite

3,71

Amazonite

2,56

Amber

1,08

Amethyst

2,65

Andalusite

3,15

Apatite

3,21

Aquamarine

2,69

Aventurine quartz

2,65

Beryl (golden)

2,68

Bloodstone

2,65

Calcite

2,70

Carnelian

2,65

Cat’s-eye chrysoberyl

3,71

Cat’s-eye quartz

2,65

Chalcedony

2,65

Chrysoprase

2,65

Citrine

2,65

Coral

2,65

Cubic zirconia

5,70

Demantoid garnet

3,85

Diamond

3,52

Diopside

3,29

Emerald

2,71

GAD garnet

7,05

Glass

2,3-4,5

Hematite

5,1

Hessonite garnet

3,65

Iolite

2,59

Jadeite jade

3,33

Jasper

2,65

Kunzite

3,18

Lapis lazuli

2,80

Malachite

3,80

Moonstone

2,57

Morganite

2,80

Nephrite jade

2,96

Obsidian

2,65

Onyx

2,65

Opal

2,05

Pearl

2,70

Peridot

3,34

Pyrope garnet

3,7-3,9

Quartz

2,65

Rhodolite garnet

3,84

Ruby

3,99

PE R I D OT: T H E AU G U S T B I R T H S TO N E

Peridot’s history and lore Peridot, spinel and sardonyx are the three birthstones for August. The peridot birthstone is known for being formed under extreme conditions, as it can be found in the hardened lava that carried it from deep within the earth’s mantle, as well as in meteorites that travelled from outer space.

PERIDOT IS THE YELLOWISH-GREEN TO greenish-yellow gem variety of the mineral olivine. Throughout history, it has often been confused with other gems such as topaz and emerald. The Red Sea island of Topazios, a purported source of the name “topaz”, actually produced peridot. The Shrine of the Three Holy Kings in Germany’s Cologne Cathedral is decorated with 200ct of gems that were believed to be emeralds, but are, in fact, peridots.

Some historians even speculate that Cleopatra’s famous emerald collection may really have been peridots.

The word “peridot” comes from the Arabic “faridat”, meaning “gem”. This stone was valued in many ancient and medieval cultures. It appeared on priests’ jewellery as early as the second century BCE and later in the chalices and churches of medieval Europe.

Peridot has also been used for centuries as a protective talisman, shielding the owner

from evil spirits and “terrors of the night”. In addition, it is traditionally given to celebrate a 16th wedding anniversary.

Although most of the peridots seen in jewellery today come from sources such as China, Myanmar, Pakistan, Tanzania, Vietnam and the USA, some journeyed to earth in meteorites, while others are found in exotic locales such as Peridot Beach, Hawaii, where the sands shimmer a luminous green.

The Egyptian island of Zabargad (the name now given to Topazios) is the oldest recorded source of this birthstone.

Mining may have begun in around 340-279 BCE. Although the island produced beautiful peridot, its harsh conditions earned it ominous names like “Island of Death and Ophiodes” (“Snake Island”). Peridot from Zabargad has been prized for centuries and is still highly desirable. The finest specimens of this August birthstone can be found in prestigious museums around the world.

Myanmar (formerly Burma) is another important source of the peridot birthstone. On the northern slopes of Kyaukpon, a mountainous region near the gem city of Mogok, loose peridot crystals can sometimes be found in crevices. The finest-quality

peridot from this locality has deep colour and superb transparency.

Arizona is the main source of peridot in the USA. Massive volcanic eruptions many thousands of years ago sent rivers of lava spilling across the desert landscape of what is today the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, where some Apache families have worked the mines for decades.

Peridot has also come to earth via pallasite (made of nickel-iron and olivine) meteorites.

Thousands of meteorites have hit our planet, many of them containing olivine, but only a few have had gem-quality peridot.

With a hardness of 6,5-7 on the Mohs scale, peridot is softer than many gems and cannot take hard wear, so it is not recommended for daily use in a ring. It can also be damaged by some acids and even by long-term exposure to acidic perspiration.

Cleaning peridot is a delicate process. Never use a steam or ultrasonic cleaner, as it is vulnerable to thermal shock. It is safest to use a soft-bristle brush with a mild dish soap in warm water.

Peridot should be stored with care to avoid scratching by gems with greater hardness.

Although most of the peridots seen in jewellery today come from sources such as China, Myanmar, Pakistan, Tanzania, Vietnam and the USA, some journeyed to earth in meteorites, while others are found in exotic locales such as Peridot Beach, Hawaii, where the sands shimmer a luminous green.

Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services. For further information, visit www.gia.edu.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

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E M P OWE R A N D I N S PI R E

Through the Impilo Collection Foundation, prominent South African jewellery designer, entrepreneur and founder of Impilo Collection, Angela Yeung, has uplifted thousands of girls and women across the country.

Angela Yeung: woman of stature 36

AN ACCOMPLISHED GEMMOLOGIST with over 20 years’ experience, Yeung has made an indelible mark on SA. A former winner of the AngloGold Ashanti Design Competition and first Woman of Colour Executive Member of the exclusive SA Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA, she founded Impilo Collection in 2005. This is a luxury jewellery brand which specialises in the design and manufacture of bespoke jewellery commissions for private clients and the trade.

Besides being an award-winning jewellery designer, Yeung is also a philanthropist and founder of the Impilo Collection Foundation,

which serves the community through its various humanitarian projects, including #EmpowerHer, The Humanity Driver and The Dignity Drive.

“Impilo” is an isiZulu word which means “life”. It was specifically chosen by Yeung to signify both the origin of her work and the inspiration she draws from real-life stories.

The Impilo Collection Foundation believes in and stands for humanity. It focuses on the development of diverse groups of youth and professionals through many different community projects and collaborating with different organisations.

“In this way, we’re able to physically experience the joys of giving back and filling people’s lives with purpose and transcendence,” says Yeung. “We believe that every life story is uniquely personal and that each life experience is meaningful.”

On a weekly basis throughout March, International Women’s Month and the first week in April, the Impilo Collection Foundation distributed 6 200 bras collected during 2021 as part of its #EmpowerHer campaign. “This campaign was created to help alleviate the desperate need for bras in vulnerable, impoverished communities,” says Yeung. “The foundation discovered that not having access to a properly fitting bra is one of the reasons women are sexualised and targeted and are becoming victims of genderbased violence [GBV].

“Good-quality, spotless and individually packaged bras were personally delivered to 13 different organisations across Gauteng. The recipients included GBV shelters, impoverished girls’ schools, orphanages and homes for the disabled. These included Kids’ Haven in Benoni and Tembisa Child & Family Welfare. The Impilo Collection Foundation has established and maintained a close relationship with both these organisations since 2020, during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic,” she says.

The foundation plans to launch a programme later this year that will upskill and provide vulnerable women with the resources needed to become financially independent.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

E M P OWE R A N D I N S PI R E

has cemented itself in her heart has been Caring4Girls, which provides sanitary towels for young women in need.

“In 2018 I first joined the Mandela expedition to climb Kilimanjaro to honour former president Nelson Mandela’s 100th birthday. Due to the incredible people who believed in me, I managed to raise funds to provide sanitary towels for these girls,” she says.

In 2019 she made the trek along with a delegation, led by SA's former Public Protector Thuli Madonsela. “Despite the incredible difficulty of my first climb, the pain and the harrowing temperatures, I knew at that moment that I’d climb again with Prof Madonsela for these girls,” she explains. “I designed a special jewellery piece called the Kilimanjaro Star, reflecting the colours and textures of the mountain.

In 2019, Yeung was selected as a finalist in the annual Women of Stature SA Awards and in 2021, she won the title of Icon SA. The BRICS Women Innovation Contest also saw her obtaining the Special Recognition

Award. She was nominated not only for her business achievements, but also for her valuable contributions to charities, which include 67 Blankets for Mandela, Rare Disease and Read to Rise. One particular cause that

“My journey through life has been about far more than just me,” she adds. “I’ve seen women climbing difficult mountains in their lives daily and it motivates me to contribute further to help women and abused youth conquer their own mountains.”

Besides being an award-winning jewellery designer, Yeung is also a philanthropist and founder of the Impilo Collection Foundation, which serves the community through its various humanitarian projects, including #EmpowerHer, The Humanity Driver and The Dignity Drive.

Yeung to climb to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak (6 200 m) for GBV victims Yeung will be climbing to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak from 22 October-10 November this year to raise funds to build multi-purpose libraries for GBV victims. The climb is being arranged by Summits With a Purpose, founded and led by Sarah Khumalo, an award-winning mountaineer and the first black African woman to summit Everest.

“These libraries will provide young women with the education, tools and resources they need to take the first step on

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

the road to independence and self-reliance,” says Yeung. “There’s no greater feeling of accomplishment or pride than knowing that everything you’ve achieved is because of your own hard work and tenacity. I want these women to be able to live the lives of their dreams.”

She has made every effort to prepare herself mentally and physically for the challenge. By 22 October, she will have undertaken 630 hours of training and completed a journey of 540 km and 780 000 steps.

“Any donation will be truly appreciated and will go a long way towards the construction of these libraries, which will transform the lives of thousands of GBV victims,” says Yeung.

Details for donations: https://www.givengain.com/ap/ angela-yeung-raising-funds-forimpilo-collection-foundation-50725/

37

D I D YO U K N OW?

Interesting facts  Vivienne Westwood first forayed into design through jewellery, taking a jewellery and silversmith course at Westminster University. However, she left after one term as she felt alienated by the other students who were typically of higher classes. Becoming a primary school teacher, Westwood continued to create her own jewellery pieces, which she sold on Portobello Road.

 During the 1200s, many European women were forbidden to wear fine jewellery. Europe’s Sumptuary Laws forbade townspeople from wearing pearls, gemstones, gold or silver.

 Women often wore jewels on their embroidered stomachers (a type of clothing item popular during the 1600s).

The jewels would usually decrease in size as they were placed down the stomacher.

of SA Jewellery News readers are female.

All past and present editors of SA Jewellery News have been women.

 The dress clip was a savvy design that was worn with the new style of fashion during the 1920s and 1930s. They were interchangeable in that they could be worn in more than one way. Pinned to the straps of gowns, the left and right necklines of dresses, collars and cuffs, they could also be fixed to accessories such as shoes or even, when split up, attached to a handbag.

38

62,7%

 The first women's wristwatch is credited to Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), who made the watch for the Queen of Naples on 8 June, 1810 and Patek Philippe made a wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1869. During this time, and onward for the next 100-120 years, men viewed wristwatches as women’s items. As a result, men would carry pocket watches in their waistcoats.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

D I D YO U K N OW?

 The South Ndebele people of Africa wear neckrings as part of their traditional dress and as a sign of wealth and status. Only married women are allowed to wear the rings, called dzilla.

Traditionally, these rings are given to a wife by her husband and are not removed until the husband's death. The rings are usually made of copper or brass and stacked in multiples of three.

 The pearls that adorned the Queen’s neck on her wedding day are thought to be the oldest British royal jewellery that is still worn today. The pearls are actually two separate necklaces that are always worn together and they have an estimated value of $6 million. One strand is said to have been worn by Queen Anne, who reigned in the early 1700s.

 In the Hindu culture, for all women, the nose ring (nath) is a symbol of being married. It is believed that a girl should only wear a nath on the day of the wedding and continue to wear it throughout her married life. Another theory holds that piercing must be done on the left nostril, as the nerves on that side connect to the female reproductive organs and thus, during childbirth, the pain is comparatively less.

Because metals were rationed during the Second World War, fine jewellery production was halted.

Because of this, many women resorted to wearing quality costume jewellery.

 Celebrities get paid to wear a specific jewellery designer's creation down the red carpet. Stars like Natalie Portman, Emma Watson and Kim Kardashian receive payments starting at six figures. However, stars with long-standing contracts with jewellery houses (aka brand ambassadors) receive a payment that starts at seven figures. Some celebs, on the other hand, receive designer jewellery pieces as payments.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

39

WO M E N’S WO R K

40

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

WO M E N’S WO R K

Female miners building an ethical gemstone future Moyo Gems is a responsible miner-to-market gemstone collaboration founded in East Africa. It works with women artisanal gem miners – and their male allies – in Tanzania and Kenya who mine rubies, sapphires, tourmalines, garnets, citrines and amethysts. It aims to empower women miners to work safely, mine better, improve their financial security and create stable, equitable markets for fair trade.

All images courtesy of Moyo Gems

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

MOYO GEMS “MOYO” MEANS “HEART” IN Kiswahili, the dominant language in Tanzania and Kenya) is operated by the non-profit development organisation Pact, which has offices worldwide and headquarters in the USA. Pact Kenya, Pact Tanzania and Pact’s unique Mines to Markets programme are behind this effort.

Pact works in seamless collaboration with the Tanzanian Women Miners’ Association, the Association of Women in Extractive Industries in Kenya, East African exporters and the responsible international trading companies ANZA Gems, Nineteen48 and Maison Piat.

Together they convene, engage, train and encourage responsible community-based artisanal miners and then buy, export and market fully traced gemstones to jewellerymakers and manufacturers worldwide and on to consumers of responsibly mined products.

Rubies, a colourful range of sapphires and garnets, citrines, amethysts and green tourmalines are frequently mined in this region.

The Umba Valley and Taita Taveta County (where Moyo miners are based) are famous for their bright, colourful, natural gemstones.

These beautiful gems are mined by independent local women and male miners.

The company is not a big one – larger-scale gem mining companies do not exist in this part of Tanzania. The women miners spend their profits locally, in the ways they choose and for the

41

WO M E N’S WO R K

benefit of the community. The women were codesigners of the Moyo Gems programme itself, explaining how they wanted it to operate, how they wanted to be paid and what they hoped to accomplish. After all, what could be more rewarding than seeing one’s wishes come true?

There is no programme or participation fee for the miners to participate: it is completely free of charge for them. To sign up, Moyo Gems arranges free worker safety and gemmology training and helps them secure the legal mining rights to where they are working (making them fully legal miners in the eyes of the Tanzanian authorities). The miners report making three to 10 times what they would normally expect for their gemstones.

Pact, which is an international non-profit organisation, ensures that no child labour is used and that no conflict issues arise.

Why has this not been done before?

Until recently, traceability in ASM-produced gemstones was widely considered impossible.

There were some limited examples with small,

easily accessible groups, but nothing at scale.

In order to claim “responsible” anything, one needs to establish traceability. Pact has established traceability in ASM-produced metals in other remote parts of Africa and applied its knowledge to gemstones, a woefully under-examined sector. This succeeded and Moyo’s traceability system is reinforced with blockchain. It has now been proven that one can source gemstones from traceable sources and in remote contexts.

What is ASM? Artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) describes mining done by individuals or small groups of people who use limited technology to mine the earth. It is not a small phenomenon: approximately 90% of all mining labour in the world is done by ASM workers and 30% of ASM are women.

Tanzania, Uganda, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Ethiopia, Malawi, Madagascar and Ghana have particularly high numbers of women miners. It takes place in 80 countries worldwide and all continents, except Antarctica. They produce up to 20% of all gold mined globally each year, 20% of all diamonds and 70-90% of coloured gemstones (precious and semi-precious). While it can be unfairly maligned as “dirty” and “chaotic”, ASM is done by exceptionally hard-working people.

Why do women choose to mine?

An estimated one-third of all artisanal and small-scale miners worldwide are women, yet the world knows little about them. This is largely due to research bias. Fortunately, this is changing. A growing amount of research is now revealing the dynamic stories of women in mining. In the Umba Valley, there is a mixture

Artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) describes mining done by individuals or small groups of people who use limited technology to mine the earth. It is not a small phenomenon: approximately 90% of all mining labour in the world is done by ASM workers and 30% of ASM are women. Tanzania, Uganda, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Ethiopia, Malawi, Madagascar and Ghana have particularly high numbers of women miners.

42

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

WO M E N’S WO R K

of stories. Some miners noticed other women mining, so they decided to join the group.

Some learnt from their fathers, others traded gemstones part-time and then decided to get a claim and mine it and still others were once farmers, but suffered the effects of climate change and unpredictable rains, so they turned to mining – and found it to their liking.

Are there consequences for the women with this system?

Moyo Gems has spent a lot of time on this issue. So far, women are thriving because the company has deliberately been as inclusive as possible. We felt it was important not to exclude the brokers from market days because of the unintended consequences for the women. We have also allowed men to join the system under clear parameters.

Because whole villages are benefiting, we have not seen any retaliation from them against the women miners.

There is a lot of trade in the region, primarily among male miners. The women’s business is a very small part of this commerce in the gemrich area of Tanga. There has also been plenty of gem business to fuel the normal (untraced) chain of gems. This helps to “even” the system for marginalised women miners.

Who is behind Moyo Gems?

Moyo was created by the international nonprofit organisation Pact, international social businesses ANZA Gems and Nineteen48 traceability company Everledger, in close partnership and collaboration with the Tanzanian Women Miners’ Association (TAWOMA) and the women miners of Tanzania’s Umba Valley, who were directly involved in every part of the programme’s design. While men are now allowed to participate, women continue to comprise the majority of participating miners and serving them well remains Moyo’s clear focus.

What are the programme rules?

The programme was co-created directly with TAWOMA via participatory workshops in June 2018 and March 2019. The inaugural members agreed to undergo occupational health and safety training with environmental goals and specific rules.

To be a Moyo Gems miner, one must fulfil the following requirements: 1. Live in the participating villages (within the Tanga and Morogoro regions, Tanzania or the Taita Taveta County).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - AUGUST 2022

2. Have attended the free GIA Educational Programme, which gives participants an understanding of the value factors of their gemstones and how to clean, examine and pre-sort them.

3. Attend a free mining health and safety training (held in or near the participating villages).

4. Become a member of TAWOMA or the Association for Women in Energy and Extractives in Kenya (AWEIK).

5. Prove that one is mining on a current legal licence and with the written permission of the licence-owner. Miners typically work on an individual mining or group licence; these cost the same and are based on hectare size, encouraging miners to form organised groups and focus their collective energies.

Moyo Gems helps miners begin their formalisation journey by facilitating written agreements where needed and liaising with local authorities.

What are the specific benefits for participating miners?

The Moyo miners each follow the five steps above in order to participate in market days.

Miners receive free introductory gemmology

training, free health and safety training and sell directly to the international market. This is three to 10 times more than they would normally receive in a more rural location.

Moyo Gems does not buy all gems from all miners. The stones must be of top quality and Moyo educates the miners in why it buys certain gems and not others. This also aids their ongoing education and negotiation skills.

We are exploring ways of serving other types of jewellery and crystal markets so that we can buy all qualities of gems from these miners.

Moyo has brought positive attention to the area and renewed cache to Tanga Province. It has raised money for personal protective equipment such as helmets, masks, eye protection and boots, specifically for women miners. During COVID-19, because of its collaboration with local partners, it was able to respond immediately with foodstuffs and other supplies because of the social, information and communications infrastructure of Moyo.

Are all the miners women?

The vast majority are, with a number of men who also participate. We leave membership decisions up to our partners, TAWOMA and AWEIK. Some men in the region have been long-time members of these organisation, which we applaud. Allowing men to participate also disincentivises sabotage and promotes harmony.

However, Moyo was designed to satisfy the needs of women and this remains its focus.

Currently, 60% of Moyo Gems miners are women and we intend keeping it that way.

For further information, visit: www.moyogems.com

43

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NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel no: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

MOON INVESTMENTS Tel: 021 551 2066 E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/ PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

M2 JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 012 460 6793 E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY Tel no: 056 212 1229 E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA Tel no: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PREVIDA & CO Tel no: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/ REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 606 0493 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS Tel no: 083 233 0910 E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za SAVAGE JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 902 2302 E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/ THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 914 2192 E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

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Contact Jenny Justus (Director: Brand Strategy) on 083 450 6052 or e-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za

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Contact Lamees Mahomed | lamees@isikhova.co.za Mobile 084 590 5123 | Landline 011 883 4627 | www.isikhova.co.za