SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • December 2018

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News DECEMBER 2018

SA

PlatAfrica 2018 highlights local design talent Local companies exhibit in Miami Amber: a product from the forest

F O R O N LY

R100 I N C LU D E S VA P O S TA G E T, & PA C K I N G !

Alice Weil A SPECIAL GIFT

My Notebook & Camera, launched at this year’s Jewellex Africa, is the fascinating biography of Alice Weil, an icon in the watch and jewellery industry (both locally and internationally) who has devoted over 30 years of her life to the industry after retiring from a career in the corporate sector.

Alice, who will be celebrating her 100th birthday in March, was born in Cape Town. She worked for Engelhard Industries as a Junior Executive – a company which dealt in precious metals (gold and platinum), as well as forestry and plastics – and remained with them for 10 years. She then started writing short articles for SABC Radio’s Short Stories from Near and Far. With encouragement from her family, Alice accepted a writing position with SA Jewellery News (then known as Diamond News & SA Jeweller) in 1986 at the age of 67.

Alice travelled internationally for many years to report on the latest news and developments in the jewellery and watch industries. Her monthly column, Little Gems, is also a favourite read in the magazine and delves into the exotic, exciting and glamorous world of jewellery, watches and gemstones.

Alice’s biography is a fascinating read and would make a great gift this holiday season.

PLACE YOUR ORDER Please complete below and send with proof of payment to Thuli Majola at fax: (011) 783-2677 or email: thuli@isikhova.co.za Name: ..............................................................................

Surname: .........................................................................

E-mail: .............................................................................

Telephone number: ........................................................

Postal address: ................................................................ ......................................................................................... ......................................................................................... .........................................................................................

No. of books purchased: ................................................

BANKING DETAILS: Isikhova Publishing Standard Bank Sandton • Branch code: 01 92 05 Acc number: 420 968 229 • Type of acc: Current Orders will only be dispatched once money reflects in the Isikhova Publishing account.

Season ’ s greetings The SA Jewellery News-team would like to take this opportunity to thank each and every one of you who helped make 2018 such an incredible year.

Thank you for your continuous loyalty and support.

Wishing you and your families a wonderful festive season and safe new year.

Please note that the SA Jewellery News offices will be closed from 14 Dec 2018 - 7 Jan 2019

A complete range of budget sensitive binocular loupes, frames, LED Light attachment(s) with pre-defined magnification and various working lengths suited for fine working environments, be it medical or industrial, giving you freedom, precision and maximum comfort.

RAIMOND LANDAU 081 873 8683 082 456 3047 RTcommunicator@gmail.com

STRAP

c ntents

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

16. INTERNATIONAL FAIR

7. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: trivern@isikhova.co.za

18 Local companies exhibit in Miami

• Trip to Botswana for winning couple • Slight increase in prices of blue and pink diamonds

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

18. DIAMONDS What are synthetic diamonds?

• Registration open for International Diamond Week • Alrosa joins De Beers blockchain

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• Michelle Liao hosts first PPC Imaginarium concrete master class

Designer: Joanne Brook

• Jewellery Biz-News app available for download now

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

• CBG on first buying mission to Israel Diamond Exchange • A new permanent collection for Vicenza’s Jewellery Museum

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

12. JEWELLERY DESIGN

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

14. SCENE AROUND

PlatAfrica 2018 highlights local design talent

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

Glamour and design talent at PlatAfrica 2018 Awards

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

22. DIAMONDS Call for stronger role for diamond body at World Diamond Congress

Printing: Typo

23. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2018 Race Edition

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

• Tissot’s graceful T-Wave

24. LITTLE GEMS

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

4

Amber: a product from the forest

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News DECEMBER 2018

SA

PlatAfrica 2018 highlights local design talent Local companies exhibit in Miami Amber: a product from the forest

On the cover The winners of the 19th annual PlatAfrica 2018 Jewellery Design & Manufacturing Competition were announced on 24 October during a theatre production-style awards ceremony hosted by Anglo American Platinum, presented in association with Platinum Guild International (PGI) India and Metal Concentrators. For more information, visit: www.angloamericanplatinum.com.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

THE PNEUMA ACADEMY OF EXCELLENCE NPC (PAE) IS PROUD TO ASSOCIATE ITSELF WITH JEWEL TEC, A

BLACK-OWNED HISTORICALLY DISADVANTAGED SOUTH AFRICAN (HDSA) SMALL, MEDIUM & MICRO ENTERPRISE (SMME).

Our primary funders have also expressed great enthusiasm, that we have specifically selected an HDSA-SMME, as the provider of a large portion of the Hi-Tec Machinery we are purchasing, as funded by IDC. We will be using the equipment to implement the Hi-Tec Incubation/ Training-Hub, the ‘Surv-U-Centre’, for further development of our Artisans, Super-Artisans and future-entrepreneurs toward acquiring top-notch skills, and self-sustainability either as a highly-qualified Super-Artisan or a Socially-Creative Enterprise-SMME. The Hub will include state-of-the-art Hi-Tec equipment, to teach our learners mass-production processes, to further develop their skills and assist the country with Local Economic Development & Localisation of our manufacturing industry.

PAE and Jewel Tec have reached an agreement whereby Jewel Tec will provide preferential discounts, to all training providers offering training to HDSAs.

Jewel Tec Jewel Tec - a South African based Tool supplier - in support of training and SMME development within the Industry PNEUMA ACADEMY OF EXCELLENCE – LEADERS IN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING TRAINING | A2, 1st Floor, Crowthorne Centre, Corner Arthur & Main Roads, Kyalami, Midrand, Johannesburg | Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 | E-mail: info@pneumaacademy.co.za | Web: pneumaacademy.co.za

NEWS

ALROSA JOINS DE BEERS BLOCKCHAIN De Beers has signed up Alrosa to its blockchain pilot, bringing the world’s two largest diamond producers together for the source verification project.

“We believe tracing requires industry cooperation and complementation for the sake of a common goal,” says Alrosa CEO Sergey Ivanov.

De Beers’ Tracr platform tracks diamonds from the mining stage to finished jewellery using a tamper-proof record of each stone’s route

through the supply chain. The pilot launched earlier this year, with diamond manufacturers Diacore, Diarough, KGK Group, Rosy Blue and Venus Jewel participating alongside retailer Signet Jewelers. Alrosa’s involvement has the potential to expand the project significantly, as the two miners together account for just under half of global rough production.

“The collective efforts of the world’s two leading diamond producers will enable more of the

world’s diamonds to be tracked on their journey from mine to retail,” adds De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver. “Having a critical level of production on the platform will deliver significant benefits for consumers and diamond industry participants.”

Alrosa was also one of the early participants in M2M, a mine-to-market tracking program and mobile app for consumers that the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) launched in 2017. – Rapaport

CBG ON FIRST BUYING MISSION TO ISRAEL DIAMOND EXCHANGE At the invitation of the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE), the Continental Buying Group (CBG) brought its first buying mission to the Israeli bourse. The CBG is the largest independent jewellery organisation in the USA, representing over 100 of the most successful independent jewellers in the country.

The eight-member delegation, consisting of leading jewellers from Florida, Alabama, Tennessee and Ohio, was led by Andie Weinman, the CBG’s founder and CEO and Joe Murphy, COO.

In order to give the buyers exposure to as many Israeli diamond suppliers as possible, their visit was timed to coincide with the Blue & White Fair, a marketplace for Israeli diamond suppliers and buyers on the bourse’s trading floor.

Weinman said she hoped that this buying mission would be the first of many in Israel.

“We visited the IDE earlier this year for the International Diamond Week and were very impressed. We decided then that we’d organise a pilot buying visit. which is what we’re doing

now. Our hope is to hold buying missions to Israel twice a year, in October and March.”

IDE President Yoram Dvash said he was thrilled by the connection with the CBG. “This is one of the most important and influential organisations in the American jewellery market. It provides us with direct access to large independent jewellers, a largely untapped market for Israeli diamond companies. We’ll do all we can to ensure that the co-operation continues,” he said.

NEWS

SLIGHT INCREASE IN PRICES OF BLUE AND PINK DIAMONDS During the third quarter of 2018, prices of fancy colour blue and pink diamonds rose by 0,7% and 0,4% respectively in all sizes and saturation levels, according to the Fancy Color Diamond Index published by the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF). At the same time, overall fancy colour diamond prices showed no significant change and increased by only 0,1%. Yellow fancy colour diamonds showed a decrease of 1,0% in prices during the same period.

Fancy vivid blue diamonds continued to outperform, rising 8,5% in the past 12

months and 1,1% in Q3 of 2018.

A distinctive difference in price trends can be seen in the 1ct category; pink diamonds remain stable, blue diamonds increased by 4,7% and yellow diamonds decreased by 2,2%, while intense yellow 1ct diamond prices increased by 1,1%.

On a year-to-year basis, compared with Q3 of 2017, the Fancy Color Diamond Index increased by 0,4%, with blue prices up 5,9% and yellow and pink prices down by 1,6% and 0,5% respectively. For a complete data analysis, visit: www.fcresearch.org.

“In my opinion, the price of fancy yellow is influenced by the general mood of many diamond traders that carry a mixed inventory of colourless and yellows,” says FCRF Advisory Board member Eden Rachminov.

“Due to the slow-down in the colourless business and to compensate in their general turnover, these traders lower the prices of yellows slightly.”

The Fancy Color Diamond Index tracks pricing data for yellow, pink and blue fancy colour diamonds in three key global trading centres – Hong Kong, New York and Tel Aviv.

A NEW PERMANENT COLLECTION FOR VICENZA’S JEWELLERY MUSEUM Vicenza’s Museo del Gioiello jewellery museum – a project promoted by Italian Exhibition Group Spa, in partnership with Vicenza Municipality – is changing its entire collection: it will now comprise 310 unique and exclusive exhibits, priceless masterpieces, many of which belong to private collections which are not usually accessible to the public or to sector insiders. It will include an original and unprecedented account of the history of jewellery through a “mixture of contemporaneity, suggestions from the past and projections into the future” and nine internationally famous curators to interpret the extraordinary exhibition area located inside the magnificent Basilica Palladiana.

The Museo del Gioiello is directed by Alba Cappellieri, professor of jewellery design at the Milan Polytechnic, and the exhibition offers a permanent collection, renewed every two years, together with a rotation of temporary exhibitions that provide a constant attraction due to the originality of their cultural content.

The third edition opens on 14 December this year and will be accessible to the public until the end of 2020.

On entering the exhibition, visitors will be greeted by the “Flora High Jewellery” necklace by Bvlgari. This item was selected

by Prof Cappellieri as the emblem of the third edition. “I’ve chosen this extraordinary item as a tribute to Italian manufacture and beauty.

Bvlgari was inspired by the paintings of Sandro Botticelli, whose [genius] reverberates in this precious and delicate floral bouquet, while the splendid manufacture showcases Italian artisanal workmanship,” he says.

The new approach that the Museo del Gioiello offers interprets jewellery according to profoundly different values, aesthetics and content, making it one of a kind in the world.

The exhibition itinerary winds through nine rooms, each containing a different meaning of jewellery, in a gathering of content, eras, geographies and origins. In the new edition, jewellery is defined as Symbols, Magic, Function, Beauty, Art, Fashion, Design, Icon and Future.

MICHELLE LIAO HOSTS FIRST PPC IMAGINARIUM CONCRETE MASTER CLASS Michelle Liao, founder of MICHL Contemporary Fine Jewellery, served as host of the first PPC Imaginarium concrete master class. In the class, Liao walks viewers through her process from creative conceptualisation to crafting the piece and recreates her entry for the 2018 PPC Imaginarium Awards – three rings that can be

worn together as puzzle pieces or individually as statement pieces.

Her designs are inspired by contemporary African aesthetics, combined with her strong Asian cultural heritage. She lectures at the Ruth Prowse School of Art, from which she graduated in 2014 with a Diploma in Jewellery Design.

She also ran the Design Indaba conference for many years, featuring in the Emerging Creatives programme in 2015.

Liao’s jewellery is a prime example of the talent and flair for creativity that the PPC Imaginarium Awards, SA’s foremost design and art competition, spearheads.

REGISTRATION OPEN FOR INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND WEEK Registration is now open for the eighth International Diamond Week in Israel (IDWI), to be held from 28-30 January 2019 on the immense floors of the Israel Diamond Exchange.

The event has become a staple on the global diamond calendar and attracts hundreds of international buyers from over 20 countries

8

every year. It will feature 200 Israeli exhibitors of polished diamonds, with huge amounts and varieties of goods on offer.

In contrast to larger trade shows, the IDWI is a boutique show, exclusively for diamond buyers, with minimal participation costs. Moreover, eligible buyers will receive three complimentary

nights at a local hotel. “The IDWI has become a tradition in the diamond world and each year it’s become bigger and more exciting,” says IDE President Yoram Dvash. “This year will be the biggest and most exciting show so far. We invite you to join us, to soak up the dynamism and the energy, and to do business.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

NEWS

JEWELLERY BIZ-NEWS APP AVAILABLE FOR DOWNLOAD NOW After much anticipation, Isikhova Publishing, publisher of SA Jewellery News, Jewellery Biz-News, African Odyssey and Jewellex Today, has launched its Jewellery Biz-News app. A first of its kind for the South African diamond and jewellery industry, it features the latest developments in the jewellery industry and related sectors, both locally and internationally.

It also offers advertising opportunities for companies to reach consumers and industry

people through this cutting-edge industry app. Sliding banners are available on the app’s main page, with hyperlinks to either a website or call to action (e-mail or telephone) that the user can use to contact the company. Video infomercials, where a short video clip is generated with more information on a product/company, together with clickable links for an e-mail address/telephone/website, are also available. In addition, notifications will go out regularly with free tutorials. These

will include educational videos on a particular process/subject where an advertiser can promote his/her product. The app will also soon feature a “promotion store” where promotions will be done on reduced items (much like Groupon).

For more information on the app or for the QR reader to be sent to you in order to download the app, e-mail Andrew Meyer at: andrewm@isikhova.co.za or Adri Viviers at: adri@isikhova.co.za.

JCSA COLLECTION AWARD DESIGN COMPETITION WINNER ANNOUNCED (SA Jewellery News, November 2019) Correction: The first- and second runner up photo captions were erroneously swapped. The correct captions are: (Right): The first runner-up was awarded to Nicole Henderson from Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project.

(Far right): The second runner-up was awarded to Hunadi Tlomatsana from Design @ 50.

SA Jewellery News does not intentionally mislead with words or images. If you see a mistake, please let us know.

Sterling Silver

SHOWROOM BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Parkhurst Johannesburg • Juanita Duncan 073 168 3761 • Zeynep Gursesler 081 842 2572 Email address: zeju.leggings@gmail.com • Instagram: zeju.jewellery All our jewellery is Sterling Silver with the options of Rose Gold Plated, Yellow Gold Plated, Black Rhodium Plated or simply leave it Silver.

MARKETS

Business barometer OCTOBER 2018 VS OCTOBER 2017

A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

DIAMOND DEALERS

RETAILERS

WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time

Best-selling diamond size

0% BETTER

50% % SAME

50% WORSE

Foot traffic

50% BETTER

50% BETTER

0%

0%

% SAME

% SAME

50%

50%

WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

WORSE

Watch sales

100%

0,5ct

BETTER

General sales compared with last year this time

% SAME

0% 0% WORSE

0% BETTER

Breakdown of retail sales

50% % SAME

50% WORSE

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

29%

63%

7.5%

MANUFACTURERS

50% BETTER

50% % SAME

0%

(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

10

50%

50%

BETTER

BETTER

50%

50% % SAME

0%

% SAME

0%

WORSE

WORSE

WORSE

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

JEWELLERY DESIGN

e 1st placr winne

(Right): First place (Professional category): Nicki Böttcher (Nicki B Jewellery).

(Above): First place (Student and Apprentice category): Callen Miller (Durban University of Technology).

(Above, from top): Second place (Professional category): Jefta Mtole (Altin Jewellers).

(Above): Third place (Professional category): Mandlenkosi Moses None (The Platinum Incubator).

NICKI BÖTTCHER FROM NICKI B JEWELLERY Creations was the winner in the professional category with her neckpiece titled Universal Love at this year’s PlatAfrica 2018 gala event, while Jefta Mtole from Altin Jewellers was placed second with his armpiece, titled From a Larva to a Queen. Mandlenkosi Moses None from The Platinum Incubator took third place with his neckpiece titled Mandlenkosi. In joint fourth place were Liezl Botha from Altin Jewellers with her neckpiece titled Eternal, Julian Roux from Pneuma Jewellers with his neckpiece titled Guardian Angel and Metaxia Segal from Uwe Koetter Jewellers with her watch titled Treasured Time.

In the student/apprentice category, Callen Miller from the Durban University of Technology won first place with her neckpiece and ring titled Able to Be, while Lonwabo Majola from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology

PlatAfrica 2018 highlights local

(Above): Second place (Student and Apprentice category): Lonwabo Majola (Cape Peninsula University of Technology).

(Left): Third place (Student and Apprentice category): Zola Ntintili (Rare Earth Creations).

12

took second place with her neckpiece titled Bell of Love. Zola Ntintili from Rare Earth Creations was awarded third place with his earrings titled Bold and Infinity, while Puleng Tsotetsi from Pneuma Jewellers was placed fourth with her hairpiece titled Benison.

“Blessings of Love” was the theme of this year’s competition, celebrating the rise of female power, while emphasising the rarity and strength of platinum and its wearers through modern, but timeless designs. Only two or three simple elements of the highest-quality production were selected for broad design categories, namely: Nature’s Spirit, Modern Feminine and Cultural Influence.

The judging process of the PlatAfrica 2018 competition was done independently of the management of the awards to ensure fair and objective assessments. Moreover, Anglo Amer-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

JEWELLERY DESIGN

The winners of the 19th annual Anglo American Platinum PlatAfrica 2018 Jewellery Design & Manufacturing Competition were announced on 24 October at a dramatic production-style awards ceremony at the Theatre on the Track in Kyalami, Johannesburg. The competition was presented in association with Platinum Guild International (PGI) India and Metal Concentrators.

(Below, from left): Fourth place (Student and Apprentice category): Puleng Tsotetsi (Pneuma Jewellers); joint fourth place (Professional category): Metaxia Segal (Uwe Koetter Jewellers).

1st place winner

cal design talent ican’s Business Assurance Services oversaw the adjudication process to ensure transparency.

The winners of the competition will be travelling to India as part of Anglo American Platinum and PGI India’s collaboration to participate in the latter’s design outsourcing process for the prestigious Evara Platinum brand.

“Platinum benefits from a diversity of demand, with jewellery being one of three major demand segments for the metal,” says Chris Griffith, CEO of Anglo American Platinum. “In positioning ourselves for our next growth phase, we continue to focus on developing the market for our metals, with a special emphasis on supporting the development of the platinum jewellery market. Platinum jewellery has

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

become profoundly important to the well-being of the South African mining industry. As such, we welcome PGI’s narrative to promote platinum as a love metal with unique characteristics and remain inspired to continue to invest in improving the design and manufacturing skills of the country’s jewellers and students so that they can compete effectively, both locally and internationally.”

Anglo American Platinum is a member of the Anglo American plc Group and is the world’s leading primary producer of platinum group metals. The company is listed on the Johannesburg Securities Exchange and its mining, smelting and refining operations are based in SA. Further afield, the group owns the Unki Platinum Mine in Zimbabwe. Anglo American Platinum also has a number of joint ventures with several histori-

cally disadvantaged South African consortia as part of its commitment to the transformation of the mining industry.

Metal Concentrators, established in 1989, has a trustworthy reputation in the field of refining and supplying precious metals in SA and its investment products have been marketed in many international markets.

Platinum Guild International is a worldwide marketing organisation created by the leading platinum producers of SA, dedicated to creating, expanding and strengthening consumer and trade markets for platinum jewellery.

Through various programmes in collaboration with jewellery retailers and manufacturers, PGI creates consumer ounce demand by identifying and fulfilling platinum jewellery opportunities for its partners. PGI is headquartered in Hong Kong and has offices in China, India, Japan and the USA. (Left): People’s Choice category winner, Matete Seliane (The Platinum Incubator).

13

SCENE AROUND

ON 24 OCTOBER, THE PLATAFRICA JEWELLERY DESIGN & Manufacturing Competition winners were announced at an elegant ceremony hosted by Anglo American Platinum at the Theatre on the Track in Kyalami, Johannesburg.

Glamour and design talent at PlatA

14

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

SCENE AROUND

latAfrica 2018 awards

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

15

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) accompanied 18 companies to exhibit at the Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) in Miami, USA, from 19-22 October.

18 local companies exhibit in Miami

THE DEPARTMENT OF TRADE & Industry (DTI) provided funding for 18 companies, which covered flights, accommodation and all stand-related expenses, to exhibit at the recent Jewelers International Showcase in Miami.

“We’re extremely grateful for the funding, without which these companies would never have been able to afford such an opportunity,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. This year, in addition to the Miami Show, the JCSA – together with the DTI – was able to take groups to JCK Las Vegas and Bijorhca in Paris.

“Why the USA? The main reason for targeting the American market is the AGOA trade agreement between SA and the USA. South African jewellery can enter duty-free under African Growth & Opportunity Act [AGOA] and other markets,” explains Lloyd. “The outcome that’s aimed for is to generate export orders.

At the very least, the South African exhibitors will gain experience from participating, get to know the international jewellery trends and learn how to make use of an international trade fair as a selling opportunity.”

The JIS is a jewellery trade show in the Western Hemisphere. Leading worldwide manufacturers and wholesalers of jewellery market and sell their products and services to thousands of jewellery trade attendees from

16

around the world, the majority of whom come from Latin America, the Caribbean, Florida and the rest of the USA. The JIS, in its fourth decade of serving the jewellery industry, is a buying and selling event destination for the jewellery industry.

The show is a curated location where jewellery professionals come to explore new trends and designs, reconnect with suppliers and build

relationships. The JIS October show, the secondlargest jewellery trade show in the Americas, brings together a variety of manufacturers, wholesalers and brands during one of the most important buying/restocking seasons of the year. Exhibitors from popular domestic and international jewellery-producing regions – including Italy, Hong Kong and Brazil – also come to display their latest sample lines, present large inventories of finished merchandise, offer some of their best pricing specials of the year and consolidate relationships with new and repeat customers. Buyers are offered the unique flexibility of choosing to take delivery of merchandise immediately from the show or write orders for products to be shipped later.

The JIS is produced in South Florida, providing attendees from Mexico, Latin America, the Caribbean and the south-east USA the benefits of convenient travel options, strong cultural ties and amazing vacation options from one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.

The show boasts over 400 booths from around the world, displaying the latest trends and newest products. Extraordinary selections at all price points, numerous high-end brands and an array of products can be found there.

Exhibiting sectors include diamonds, precious and semi-precious gemstones and gold/ platinum/silver jewellery, as well as fashion jewellery.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

DIAMONDS

What are synthetic diamonds?

Kaylan Khourie is an FGA-qualified gemmologist and laboratory gemmologist at EGL South Africa. This article aims to help those in the diamond and jewellery industry regarding synthetic diamonds.

DIAMONDS ARE MINERALS MADE UP OF essentially crystallised carbon. They occur naturally and can be grown in a laboratory using two methods: high pressure high temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapour deposition (CVD).

Both methods imitate the environment within which natural diamonds grow, in order to grow the stones onto a seed plate (made of a thin slice of diamond – either natural or synthetic).

HPHT-grown diamonds HPHT synthetic diamonds are grown by applying high temperature and high pressure to a chamber containing pure carbon powder that gets dissolved in a molten metal flux mixture.

As the mixture cools down, the carbon crystallises onto a seed plate within the chamber and the synthetic diamond begins to grow.

HPHT synthetic diamonds can be grown as a vivid yellow colour (caused by nitrogen), but by adding “nitrogen-getters” into the chamber during growth, colourless diamonds can be created. By adding boron during the growth process, a blue colour can be created.

Any colour can be produced by subjecting the stones to post-growth treatments that alter their atomic structure.

chamber, methane (a carbon and hydrogen gas) is irradiated by microwaves that form a plasma cloud around seed plates. These seed plates are on top of a platinum base that gets heated to a very high temperature. During this process, carbon is separated from the gas and deposited onto the seed plates and the diamond is grown.

CVD synthetic diamonds are usually grown as a brownish or greyish colour (Figure 3) and are often treated afterwards in order to reduce the overtone of colour (Figure 4). The diamond may be subjected to different post-growth treatments to create a wide variety of colours (Figure 5).

Terminology • The following terms are acceptable to refer to diamonds that are grown in a laboratory: “Synthetic”, “Laboratory-grown”, “Man-made” or “Laboratory-created”.

• The following terms are not acceptable to refer to diamonds that are grown in a laboratory: “Cultured”, “Eco-friendly” or “Manufacturer name-diamond”.

• A “simulant” is a gemstone that imitates a diamond, but does not have the same chemical, physical or optical properties – eg cubic zirconia, YAG and synthetic moissanite.

Full disclosure that a diamond is laboratorygrown is extremely important to ensure consumer confidence.

Figure 3: Basic illustration of the CVD synthesis method and rough specimens with polycrystalline diamond around the edges. Shigley, 2016 – Identifying Lab-Grown Diamonds.

Figure 6: A ”false natural“ on a bruted girdle of a synthetic diamond. Photo by author.

Figure 1: Basic diagram of the HPHT synthesis method, crystal form and rough. Shigley, 2016 – Identifying LabGrown Diamonds.

Figure 4: A CVD synthetic diamond sample before (left) and after (right) treatment. Martineau et al, 2004.

Indications that your diamond could be synthetic Having access to a “screening device” can be very useful for indicating whether your diamond may be synthetic. Screening devices use various methods to either “pass” or “refer” a stone. “Pass” means that the stone is a natural diamond, whereas “refer” means that the stone could possibly be a synthetic diamond (or even a simulant) and needs further testing by a gemmological laboratory to determine its growth origin.

Figure 2: Two HPHT synthetic diamonds that have undergone post-growth colour-treatment. Zhou & Johnson, 2016 – Treated Red and Green HPHT Synthetic Diamonds.

CVD-grown diamonds The most common CVD synthetic growth method involves diamonds being grown inside a vacuum chamber at a very low pressure. Within this

18

Figure 5: A CVD synthetic diamond that has undergone a multistep treatment process to create a Purple-Pink colour.

Photo by Author.

Figure 7: The De Beers DiamondSure “passing” (right) and “referring” (left) two diamonds. Photo by author.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

DIAMONDS

Common misconceptions regarding synthetic diamonds Common misconception

Correction

“Synthetic diamonds are not real"

Synthetic diamonds have the same physical, chemical and optical properties as natural diamonds; their durability, brilliance and lustre is superior to the common simulants of a diamond. Synthetic diamonds are real diamonds; they have just been grown in a laboratory instead of being grown by natural processes.

“Diamond testers can separate natural and synthetic diamonds"

Diamond testers use thermal and electrical conductivity to separate a diamond from its simulants. Because synthetic diamonds have the same physical properties as natural diamonds, they have the same thermal and electrical conductivity levels as natural diamonds; therefore, a diamond tester cannot separate a natural from a synthetic diamond.

“Scratch pens can be used to detect synthetic diamonds”

Scratch pens are made with (usually) a synthetic corundum tip – with a Mohs hardness of 9.

The scratch pen cannot scratch a diamond, as diamonds have a Mohs hardness of 10 – the pen can only scratch stones with a hardness of 9 or less. Because synthetic diamonds have the same hardness as natural diamonds, a scratch test cannot separate the two.

“Polished synthetic diamonds are not commercially available larger than 1ct”

Synthetic diamonds come in sizes from melee up until very large sizes. At the time of writing, the largest grown gem-quality HPHT synthetic diamond reported is a 15,32ct cushion-shaped diamond (Magaña & Ardon, 2018) and the largest grown gem-quality CVD synthetic diamond reported is a 9,04ct round diamond (WD Lab Grown Diamonds, 2018).

“Synthetic diamonds are only created in the colourless range”

Synthetic diamonds can be grown in various colours. The colours that cannot be achieved by the growth process can be done so by post-growth treatments (such as irradiation, annealing, HPHT treatment, LPHT treatment or a combination of these treatments.) – See Figure 2.

“Synthetic diamonds only have faceted girdles and cannot have ‘naturals’”

”False naturals“ (Figure 6) can be carved onto the girdles of synthetic diamonds and they can also be cut to leave a small part of the synthetic rough skin on the girdle that can imitate the look of ”naturals“ found on naturally grown diamonds. Synthetic diamonds can be found with bruted, faceted or polished girdles.

Some synthetic diamond producers laserinscribe “Laboratory-grown” or similar onto the girdles of their diamonds. It is therefore always wise to check the girdles of your diamonds.

Figure 8: A “laboratory-grown” laser inscription on a synthetic diamond. Photo by author.

When CVD synthetic diamonds are grown, they often have black polycrystalline diamond around the edges of the rough (see Figure 3). In order to maximise the potential yield from the rough, synthetic diamond producers will often laser-core the diamond out of the rough in order to reFigure 9: "Laser grooves" below the girdle of a CVD synthetic diamond. Photo by author.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

move the polycrystalline diamond. The lasercoring can sometimes leave “laser grooves” on or below the girdle.

When HPHT synthetic diamonds are grown, diamond powder is dissolved in a molten metal flux mixture. Sometimes this process leaves metallic flux inclusions (Figure 11) inside the grown diamond. If these flux inclusions are abundant enough, they can cause the diamond to be attracted to a strong magnet (Figure 10).

Some colourless HPHT synthetic diamonds exhibit prolonged phosphorescence (when the diamond still emits light after the UV exposure has been removed) after exposure to shortwave UV light (most jewellers and dealers use long-wave UV light to observe fluorescence).

These are only indications that your diamond could be synthetic; even if it is not, it could still be treated. If you are suspicious of your diamond’s origin or colour origin, always submit it to a gemmological laboratory which has the necessary equipment to test for synthetics and treatments.

References [1] WD Lab-Grown Diamonds. 2018. WD LabGrown Diamonds Continue to Break Records, Display 9ct Diamond. www.wdlabgrowndiamonds. com/blog/wd-lab-grown-diamonds-continue-tobreak-records-display-9ct-diamond [2] Magaña, SE & Ardon, T. 2018. 15ct HPHT Synthetic Diamond. Gems and Gemology, Summer 2018. Vol 54 (2).

[3] Wang, W, D’Haenens-Johansson, UFS, Moe, KS, Johnson, P, Wong, SY & Lu, R. 2014. Near-Colorless HPHT Synthetic Diamonds From AOTC Group.

Gems and Gemology, Spring 2014. Vol 50 (1).

[4] Martineau, PM, Lawson, SC, Taylor, AJ, Quinn, SJ, Evans, DJF & Crowder, MJ. 2004. Identification of Synthetic Diamond Grown Using Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). Gems and Gemology, Spring 2004. Vol 40 (1).

Figure 10: HPHT synthetic Figure 11: Yellow HPHT diamond attracted to a strong synthetic diamond with metallic magnet. Photo by author flux inclusion. Photo by author

[5] Zhou, Y & Johnson, P. 2016. Treated Red and Green HPHT Synthetic Diamonds. Gems and Gemology, Fall 2016. Vol. 52 (3).

19

SE ASON'S G One of the real joys of the Holiday Season is the opportunity to say Thank You and to wish you the very best for the New Year.

To our partners in the jewellery industry.

Wishing you happiness and prosperity over the Holiday Season. Thank you for all your support throughout the year

Tel: (021) 424-7764 Fax: (021) 424-7152 E-mail: info@jppe.co.za Website: www.jppe.co.za

Tel: (011) 418-9000 Fax: (011) 418-9231 E-mail: gold@gold.co.za Website: www.randreďŹ nery.com

Associated Insurance Brokers wishes our clients, friends and colleagues a wonderful Christmas season and a happy New Year.

Associated Insurance Brokers Tel: (011) 883-2400 E-mail: info@aib.za.com A licensed Financial Services Provider: FSP No 19819

To all our customers, families and friends, may you have a joyous festive season.

Wishing you peace and happiness in 2018.

Tel: (011) 446-5900 Fax: 086-614-7433 E-mail: marilyn@tanzanite company.co.za

The SA Jewellery News team wishes you a wonderful festive season and a happy New Year.

Tel: (011) 883-4627 Fax: (011) 783-2677 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Website: www.isikhova.co.za

GREETINGS

er ur

We would like to wish all our customers a blessed festive season and a prosperous 2018.

From the Bassano Gioielli team.

Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164 Fax: (011) 704-4002 Website: www.bassanogioielli.com

May your holiday season and the New Year be filled with joy, happiness and success. Happy holidays!

Tel: (011) 257-6000 E-mail: info@cjr.co.za Website: www.cjr.co.za

We thank you for your support and wish you and your families well over the festive season and the best for the New Year.

Wishing all our friends and colleagues a wonderful festive season and a New Year filled with happiness and prosperity.

Tel: (021) 511-6237 Fax: (021) 510-4129 E-mail : admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

Tel: (011) 642-2018/9 Fax: (011) 642-2016 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za

DIAMONDS

Call for stronger role for diamond body at World Diamond Congress A number of significant issues were discussed at the 38th World Diamond Congress, which was held in Mumbai, India, from 23-25 October. The Bharat Diamond Bourse hosted the congress at its premises.

THE WORLD DIAMOND CONGRESS, THE biennial meeting of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and the International Diamond Manufacturers’ Association (IDMA), began with meetings of the WFDB’s Judicial, Trade & Business, Promotion and Executive Committees, where they heard updates regarding their activities and discussed future plans.

“There have been so many developments in the diamond business since we met at the 2017 Presidents’ Meeting that it was vital for us to listen to the views and opinions of our members from across the world,” says President Ernie Blom.

“We’ve been confronted with so many new issues this year that this has become one of the most important congresses for our organisation. Our committees certainly held very detailed meetings, particularly in the areas of synthetics, financing, the impact of De Beers’ Lightbox jewellery, changes in the functions of trade shows, social media marketing, our Young Diamantaires group and the results of a special survey of our bourses, which raised many important questions about how we operate.”

The wide range of challenges facing the global diamond industry were outlined by Blom in his keynote speech. He touched upon all the

22

major issues facing the trade, from generic marketing and the need to attract millennial buyers to maintaining consumer confidence, Know Your Client, responsible sourcing and the changes to the US Federal Trade Commission’s Guides to Jewelry.

“A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Your role as WFDB Presidents is becoming more critical in promoting the ethos and philosophy of the federation. We need you all to be more proactive in promoting the role of the WFDB. We need to tell people inside and outside the industry about our mission and dedication to improving the way the diamond trade operates,” he told the gathering of the WFDB’s 30 bourses.

The congress approved proposed changes to its by-laws and inner rules to enable its current Executive Committee to remain in place until the next congress in 2020 to give the body stability, and for Blom to remain in place as President for a fourth term.

In addition, the Presidents approved a proposal for Shanghai Diamond Exchange President Lin Qiang to be appointed as Vice-President in place of Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) President Yoram Dvash, who stated his desire to concentrate on his work for the IDE. The congress also approved a proposal from Peter Meeus, the former President of the Dubai Diamond Exchange, that he carry out a pilot programme of the World Diamond Mark.

Blom stressed the need for the WFDB to work intensively over the next two years to put a succession planning policy in place that will bring younger members of the industry into leading roles, including filling the top two

positions at the WFDB from 2020 onwards.

The meeting started with comments from BDB President Anoop Mehta about the vital role the diamond industry plays in the Indian economy. He observed that with next year likely to provide fresh challenges for the global diamond trade, industry organisations should come together to present a united front in dealing with the issues facing it.

“Each President and member is an ambassador for the WFDB, the diamond trade and the good that diamonds do, and we all need to communicate this, both in the countries where we operate and when abroad. We have an enormous amount of knowledge, experience and intellect which should be used to find ways for us to further boost our global role,” said Blom at the conclusion of the congress, adding that Dvash has agreed to lead the project.

Blom also told the meeting that an additional layer of administration is needed to deal with an increased workload.

On the challenges the diamond industry faces, Blom said bourses must be forceful in dealing with people found to be breaking the rules.

“Every President and bourse must have zero tolerance for this activity and this must be clearly communicated,” he declared.

Know Your Client programmes, he added, are extremely important to the industry and can help diamond firms become even more transparent. In addition, responsible sourcing has become a standard element of operations and members should embrace it.

The congress was also attended by representatives from a range of industry bodies.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Tissot’s graceful T-Wave Inspired by the graceful dance of a ribbon swirling in the wind, the T-Wave radiates a delightfully light and elegant design.

The rounded curves of its case and lugs perfectly hug the lines of the flowing silk. The dial features a teardrop index set with white or black mother-of-pearl, while the dainty, skeletonised hands accentuate the pure nature of the timepiece. Available with a dial pared down to its simplest expression or swept over by a discreet flurry of ribbons revealing the shimmering mother-of-pearl beneath,

the Tissot T-Wave features various glamorous touches, alternately focusing on absolute purity or evoking a piece of jewellery.

Polished or diamond-set, in steel or pink PVD-treated versions, it is suitable for any occasion.

Its quartz movement with battery features an end-of-life indicator. Its 316L stainless steel or pink PVDtreated 316L stainless steel case is available with or without a setting of Top Wesselton diamond and is 30 mm in diameter. It is scratchresistant, with cambered sapphire crystal and water-resistant to 30 m.

Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2018 Race Edition This year Chopard celebrates the 30th anniversary of its sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race between Brescia and Rome. Each year, Chopard celebrates the classic car race with a limited-edition sports watch. The Mille Miglia 2018 Race Edition is a numbered series with a COSC-certified movement that has a rate variation within -4-+6 seconds per day.

There are 1 000 pieces in steel – marking the 1 000 miles of the race – and 100 pieces in 18ct gold and steel, each with an inscription on the case-back: “Chopard & Mille Miglia 30 anni di passione.”

The watch is designed as a tribute to classic automobiles, with a dashboard-inspired dial, a notched crown resembling a gas-tank cap and chronograph pushers shaped like engine pistons.

The strap is perforated in the style of driving gloves.

Its mechanical movement with automatic winding vibrates 28 800 times per hour and features 37 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.

Its stainless steel or steel and 18ct rose gold case is 42 mm in diameter and 12,67 mm thick.

It features a steel or 18ct rose gold screw-lock crown and pushers, as well as glare-proof sapphire crystal, and is water-resistant to 50 m.

Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his own workshop in 1860 in Sonvillier, the Swiss Jura. Since 1963, Chopard has been owned by the Scheufele

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

family, with its headquarters located in Geneva.

Internationally renowned for its watch and jewellery creations, the group today employs over 2 000 people worldwide. It is independent and vertically integrated, controlling the entire process from design to distribution through 1 600 points of sale and more than 147 dedicated boutiques. Over 30 different crafts are practised in six manufacturing sites, with a strong emphasis on in-house training. Chopard has built its reputation on iconic collections such as “Happy Diamonds”, “Happy Sport” and “Mille Miglia”.

The firm is also highly recognised for its high jewellery creations, fine watchmaking and manufacture expertise, expressed in the LUC collection.

In line with two of its fundamental values, respect and social responsibility, Chopard is strongly committed to various philanthropic organisations. Long-term partnerships tie the company to the José Carreras International Leukaemia Foundation and the Elton John Aids Foundation. Last, but not least, Chopard is a faithful partner of the Cannes International Film Festival and legendary classic car events, such as the Mille Miglia in Italy and the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique. The project “The Journey” is a multi-year programme which was launched by Chopard in 2013, deepening its commitment to sustainable luxury.

23

LITTLE GEMS

A product from the forest Amber is not a gem, although it is used for making jewellery and is usually yellow, but is not gold. It is anything between 30 million years to 90 years old and is found along the shores of the Baltic and North Seas. Alice Weil fi nds it is also used extensively in the decorative arts.

AMBER HAS BEEN VALUED as an ornamental material known since prehistoric times. It is a fossil resin and articles are quite common in museums – for example, in the National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen. Carved amulets from 4 000 years ago have been located in archaeological areas throughout northern Europe and along Mediterranean shores, as well as at Stonehenge in England.

The amber-yielding pines of the Baltic forests are found in irregular nodules in marine drift near Kaliningrad in Russia (formerly Königsberg in Prussia) in a particular type of sand in the lower strata known as “blue earth”. The resin is now mined there. Older forms of amber in which flora was entrapped have been found in the forests of East Asia and the southern parts of North America. Amber has unique capabilities as a preservative.

Sometimes it contains creatures such as frogs or spiders and their webs, as well as plant matter, marine micro-fossils, wood and fruit deposited millions of years ago. Other small organisms, hair, flowers and fruit have been found in amber in north-eastern Italy.

Yellow amber is a hard fossil resin produced from a marrow discharged by trees belonging to the pine genus. In ordinary pines, which are evergreen, it can be translucent. At first it is a liquid which is released in quite large quantities and emits a pine-like smell. When rubbed and burnt,

24

it gradually hardens.

Fossil resin comes in two categories – the famous Baltic amber and fossil resins from the Americas and Africa. Impurities are frequent, so this material is used for making varnishes.

About 90% of the world’s extractable amber is still located in Russia. Pieces of it are released from the sea floor, washed up onto the shore and collected by hand-dredging or diving.

It comes in a range of colours, predominantly yellow or brown, and can be opaque.

When slowly heated in an oil bath, it becomes soft and flexible, enabling it to be cut, polished and transformed into jewellery. Sometimes it retains the form of drops and stalactites, exactly as it appeared when it was extruded from the hollow cracks within injured trees.

Large lumps of amber are believed to be formed when the resin flows into the hollow cavities within these trees.

There are several forms into which amber can be classified and each of them is unique.

One form is produced by conifers consisting of ring structures, while another tends to be used for functional items. Each form also produces a unique blend of chemicals. The overall structure in the chemicals is used to divide amber into its classes.

It has been used in jewellery since the Stone Age, 13 000 years ago. During the 1920s, a string of gradated amber beads was a favourite accessory and really sophisticated women opted for amber in items such as cigarette-holders.

Its use as a decorative material is best illustrated in the Amber Room of the Catherine Palace near St Petersburg, Russia. This is a reconstructed chamber containing a number of amber panels backed by gold leaf and mirrors.

The palace, originally constructed in the 18th century, was formerly considered to be the eighth Wonder of the World.

The chamber was originally created for a palace in Berlin and was designed by a German baroque sculptor, together with a Danish craftsman, who worked on the room until

1797, after which it was completed by two amber masters from Danzig. It remained in Berlin until 1716 and then presented to Tsar Peter the Great of Russia by Prussian King Frederick Wilhelm I. Once in St Petersburg, the chamber was expanded to 55 m2, renovated and covered with more than 6 tons of amber.

During World War II, it was dismantled by the invading Nazis and brought to Königsberg for reconstruction, while being displayed. Its present whereabouts remain a mystery, but in 1979 an effort was made to rebuild the Amber Room and after decades of work

by Russian craftsmen and donations from Germany, in 2003 a replica of the room was reintegrated at the Catherine Palace. It contains gilding, carvings and 450 kg of amber panels, gold leaf, gemstones and mirrors, all candlelit to amplify its beauty.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2018

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery.

TM

TM

www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433