SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • Dec 2020/Jan 2021 • Holiday Issue

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HOLIDAY ISSUE 2020/2021

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• 2020: the year in review • Jewellers around the world unite to honour health workers • From coins to conservation • Upheavals for Swiss fairs continue

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Learn more at GIA.edu/diamond-origin

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SAJN |CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za

10. NEWS

Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

• Proudly SA non-liquid UV-C sanitiser for manufacturing jewellers launched

Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

• De Beers to stop production at Botswana mine

Sales Director: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lamees Mahomed Cell: 084-590-5123 E-mail: lamees@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lori Zavattoni Cell: 083-229-7873 E-mail: lori@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Gail Keogh Cell: 082-929-4935 E-mail: gail@isikhova.co.za

• Christie’s Geneva live online sale totals US$40 million • Story-telling to consumers in the new normal of 2021 • WFDB President cautiously optimistic for holiday season • Cape Watch Tools and Jewellery Supplies’ Top Tip Tuesdays

14. WATCHES The current European COVID-19 flare-up has resulted in cancellations of Geneva fairs scheduled for 2021

Media Specialist: Ruwayda Mahomed Cell: 072-383-3203 E-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za

19. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

16. JEWELLERY DESIGN SAJN talks to Venita Botes, owner of Piet My Vrou Jewellery in Tzaneen, Limpopo Province

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

CONTENTS|SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

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30. 2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

je w ed ia m o n d a n d

Twelve industry players share some of the most important life and business lessons they’ve learnt this year and what they’re looking forward to in the one ahead

41. WATCHES With its XXL moon, the Perpetual Moon is ruled by Selene, the goddess of this celestial body

42. COINS The SA Mint has announced the launch of the penultimate coin in the Big Five series, featuring the leopard

43. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT Sales and marketing strategist Jacqueline Raw shares tips to help entrepreneurs turn their side-hustles into a full-time success

45. HAND MEDAL PROJECT Jewellers around the world unite to honour health workers

• 2020: the year in review • Jewellers around the world unite to honour health workers • From coins to conservation • Upheavals for Swiss fairs continue

On the cover Anglo American Platinum announced the winners of the 21st annual PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition on 13 November as part of African Fashion International (AFI) Fashion Week Joburg, with models dressed by leading menswear brand Carducci. Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum in partnership with Metal Concentrators and

46. LITTLE GEMS Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

Platinum Guild International (PGI) India, PlatAfrica aims to promote innovation and technical expertise in platinum jewellery design and manufacturing in South Africa and provide international exposure to jewellers, apprentices and students. This year’s theme – Designed for Men of Platinum – was developed in consultation with PGI India and was inspired by consumer research that identifies men’s jewellery as a growing demand segment for platinum jewellery, but with a limited product offering.

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ED'S NOTE|SAJN FOR MANY, THE END OF THE YEAR cannot come soon enough. It has been a long 12 months. 2020 is a year few people would want to have over. It brought with it many challenges, fears and uncertainties.

It’s also a year few will – and should – forget. It forced us to change the way we look at life and made us re-evaluate what is truly important.

And even though we were separated from our colleagues and families physically for quite some time, it brought us closer to one another as we shared a feeling that we are facing these uncertain times together and that we are all in this together.

Since the start of lockdown in March, I have been inspired by the positive attitude and resilience of people in our industry. The interviews I did for SAJN during these past 10 months truly motivated and encouraged me. People from our industry have an incredible ability to cope with adversity and use challenges to forge strength. They have a way of plugging along, even when the

situation becomes ugly and exhausting. They manage to learn from misfortunes and rely on others with confidence and trust. I thank you all for taking me and our readers on your journeys through this pandemic. In this issue, 12 such industry players share some of the most important life and business lessons they have learnt this year and what they are looking forward to in 2021.

I will be spending Christmas with my entire family at my parents’ house. I know that I will cherish the closeness more than ever before and will never again take such occasions for granted.

I wish you all a safe holiday season filled with warmth, connection, laughter, love and blessings with your loved ones.

We at SAJN thank you, our loyal readers and advertisers, for your continued support and look forward to seeing you all again in the new year.

Adri Viviers

SUBSCRIBE TO SA JEWELLERY NEWS SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa.

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FROM THE CEO OF THE JCSA|SAJN 2020 HAS CERTAINLY BEEN A YEAR OF anxiety, reflection, hope and rebuilding.

The COVID-19 pandemic has caused much turmoil in the jewellery industry, with many companies facing bankruptcies and retrenchments. With the Christmas season looming, we have seen an increase in business activities and we are looking forward to a reasonable season.

The council and its staff have made themselves available to assist members during this period, specifically to comply with COVID-19 regulations and the Disaster Management Act. Listed below are details of what we have done over the past year: • A submission to government, appealing to it to reconsider the Risk Adjustment Level of the jewellery industry.

• Working with the SA Independent Tenants’ Association (SAITA) to negotiate rentals with landlords.

• Sharing a list of incentives with jewellers to apply for relief funding during COVID-19.

• Distributing information on COVID-19 Occupational Health & Safety Measures in the Workplace, as well as policies, operating procedures, checklists and info packs.

• Providing educational webinar opportunities via Zoom.

• The council liaised with the SA Diamonds & Precious Metals Regulator requesting its leniency on extending deadlines for renewals and applications of permits/licences.

• We requested advice from the insurance industry on how it could help provide some relief during COVID-19 to our members.

• The council consulted with its attorneys for members on maintaining the existing payroll on the same level as during better times. It received guidance on putting staff con tracts on hold, reducing/halting salaries, retrenchments, short-time, etc.

• We conducted some research and shared information on closures, job losses and government incentives.

• Through various service providers, the council offered members opportunities to implement social media programmes and online sales platforms.

The tax refund administrators developed an app to enhance and streamline the VAT refund experience for tourists to SA, which we shared with members. This app will allow tourists to upload their VAT refund claim information prior to departure from the country.

We have continued to circulate information about interesting webinars which we believe will benefit our members.

Even during good times, business leaders

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

Message from the CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA benefit from professional coaching which helps individuals clarify the reality of their current situation, define desired objectives and co-create the necessary steps to achieve success. Owners of jewellery businesses are experiencing the most challenging and stressful time of their lives. In recognition of this, the JCSA introduced one of the country’s top executive coaches, Michael Pryke, who offered to partner with individual members on a coaching journey on a pro bono basis.

The JCSA has officially endorsed the launch of a new online consumer retail magazine called JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, which was launched in mid-November. JZA is part of our strategy to support the marketing of jewellery to the consumer. The publication will develop and sustain a highly focused consumer presence to help retailers rebuild customer loyalty and retention, bring jewellery retailers and their offerings directly to the consumer through online store traffic and in real-time (feet-in-store) and ensure that consumers identify with the JCSA members’ code of conduct to buy jewellery with confidence. It further aims to promote the collective corporate identity of generic retail jewellery, as well as all individual brands, and rebuild and retain active, loyal consumers.

As with any other business, the council needs to remain sustainable and, going into 2021, we will embark on new projects to support our members.

Although 2020 started off well with exciting plans to host Jewellex Africa and the Jewellery

and Watch Show, we had to rethink our strategy when we were forced to cancel the shows due to COVID-19.

A proposal has been put to the board to host Jewellex Africa as an online platform in 2021. This alternative strategy is aimed at addressing the industry’s needs and becoming current. The format of the show is being investigated and a proposal will be presented to the industry early next year.

A second proposal put to the council’s board was for us to host the Jewellery and Watch Fair as a two-day event at the Sandton Convention Centre, where consumers can physically visit the show and purchase jewellery.

Another important project, which we are looking forward to starting, is working with consultants ArkKonsult, who will facilitate a comprehensive short- and medium-term marketing strategy and milestone reports for the purpose of influencing the Department of Trade & Industry regarding policy changes and supply-side interventions. The consultants will also develop a three-year sectoral development plan for the Jewellery Council and its members, designed to focus on issues such as beneficiation and manufacturing revival, as well as a wholesale and retail revival strategy.

Crime in the current environment is a huge challenge and has had a major impact on retail on top of the already harsh trading conditions.

Between January and November 2020, the major concern has been in Gauteng, with 39 robberies and two attempted robberies.

We continue to work with the SA Council of Shopping Centres in order to implement more stringent measures in the shopping centres.

Slowly, we have all started to adapt to a new normal. There is new hope and companies are diversifying their businesses to again achieve the success they once had.

Any association is only ever as strong as the total sum of its members and we therefore invite you to participate and make use of the opportunities offered by the Jewellery Council.

For more information on the council, its activities and how to become a part of a responsible jewellery community, visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za; JCSA Closed Facebook for members: JCSA Members Group; or contact us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

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SAJN |NEWS

WFDB PRESIDENT CAUTIOUSLY OPTIMISTIC FOR HOLIDAY SEASON In a letter to the industry, Yoram Dvash, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, expressed cautious optimism about the approaching holiday season. “We’re all hoping for a strong holiday season that will help our industry regain some of the major losses of 2020 and put us back on track for growth in 2021. However, the COVID-19 crisis is still ongoing and its health and economic effects will certainly be felt in holiday purchases, especially in the American market,” he wrote.

In his letter, he highlighted the following views from experts that may impact the sector: • Millennial and Gen-Z consumers will be more likely than other age groups to buy fine jewellery this holiday, according to a

PGI study. This means that effective mark eting of diamonds to younger consumers is more important than ever.

• More than 70% are willing to buy jewellery online. This trend has become even more pronounced since the start of the COVID-19 crisis.

• While the pandemic has impacted the American economy, it has hit unevenly.

The rich have unspent income and are likely to spend on luxury items, especially jewellery.

• Diamond jewellery has been capturing some of the spending usually reserved for travel.

Buyers are upgrading existing jewellery and buying new pieces. Forevermark USA has seen double-digit growth each month since July.

•

De Beers research shows that the pandemic has made people more likely to give a significant gift to a loved one this season than they were before. CEO Bruce Cleaver says there is greater consumer interest in enduring beauty and classic designs, along with a growing demand for authenticity and sustainability.

“All of the above show that jewellery, especially diamond jewellery, are very much on the minds of consumers this holiday season,” wrote Dvash. “That’s a very positive prediction, which I’m happy to support.”

However, he cautioned that there are still unknowns, especially in terms of the American elections, which could impact the mood and behaviour of consumers.

CHRISTIE’S GENEVA LIVE ONLINE SALE TOTALS US$40 MILLION Christie’s November Magnificent Jewels sale, which was held in a newly adapted format, including a live hybrid and online component, achieved a total of US$39 983 075, selling 89% by lot. During the online sale, 11 lots sold for over $1 million.

“Despite the challenging environment and the first auction at Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues without clients present in the room, Christie’s saw strong bidding from all over the world, both online and by telephone,” says Max Fawcett, Head of the Jewellery De-

partment in Geneva. “With a sell-through rate of 89%, it shows that the market’s robust and there’s very competitive demand for exceptional jewels and coloured stones. We look forward to successful sales in Paris, London, Hong Kong and finally New York, to conclude the season.”

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NEWS|SAJN

PROUDLY SA NON-LIQUID UV-C SANITISER FOR MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS LAUNCHED Engineered to kill micro-organisms in one minute, SOPE Saniwave’s next-generation non-liquid UV-C sanitiser is designed for use in any environment, including manufacturing jewellers’ workshops.

“Designed and manufactured in SA with Proudly South African certification, it has a proven kill-rate using the one-touch Saniwave sanitisation programme and is 50% more effective than similar UV-C technology products,” says Veeren Naidoo, MD of SOPE Saniwave.

The patent-pending sanitiser can be used to

sanitise jewellery, watches and other everyday items quickly, including smartphones and tablets.

“It effectively kills the COVID-19 virus, as tested by the Council for Scientific & Industrial Research, as well as other harmful microorganisms and has been safety-tested by Test Africa, an accredited test house,” says Naidoo.

“It can be used in any environment where ultra-fast sanitisation of items is needed. Since constant liquid sanitising and certain chemicals can damage the surface of jewellery, it’s ideal for the jewellery industry.”

DE BEERS TO STOP PRODUCTION AT BOTSWANA MINE Debswana, De Beers’ joint venture with Botswana, will pause mining at the Damtshaa deposit for an indefinite period, citing a lack of financial viability because of market conditions.

“In the current environment, the marginal cash flow produced by the mine is outweighed by operational costs,” a De Beers spokesperson explained to Rapaport News. “Placing Damtshaa mine into care and maintenance will support Debswana’s ability to continue to invest in production capacity expansion projects which are essential to its positive long-term future.”

According to Stephan Lussier, De Beers’ Executive Vice-President for Consumer Markets & Brands, the organisation had warned in July this year that there would probably be staff reductions at some operations around the world as the COVID-19 pandemic hit sales and profits. The crisis accelerated the miner’s transformation plans, forcing it to reduce costs so that it could invest in initiatives in the future.

Debswana will also close the 50-year-old plant 1 at the Orapa mine in Botswana and focus on production at plant 2 – a move that was already under consideration before the COVID-19 pandemic, said the spokesperson.

Damtshaa – meaning “water for a tortoise” in the local Sesarwa language – opened in 2003 as the newest mine within Debswana,

a 50:50 partnership between De Beers and the government. It is part of the Orapa group of mines, which produced a combined 10,8 million carats in 2019.

De Beers initially stopped production at Damtshaa in 2015, when it was working to reduce output in Botswana amid a slowdown in the rough market. The miner brought the site back into action in 2017, but it remained a relatively insignificant source of diamonds, contributing about 1% of Debswana’s total production, and is currently at the wastemining phase.

Debswana is currently in talks with unions and regulators about the exact timing and course of action, the spokesperson added. – Rapaport

SAJN |NEWS

CAPE WATCH TOOLS & JEWELLERY SUPPLIES’ TOP TIP TUESDAYS Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies, supplier of precision tools and equipment to manufacturing jewellers, diamond dealers, the watch retail trade and creative artists working with alternative materials, continues to share weekly

helpful tips/videos with the industry.

“When the lockdown started in March, we began sharing a top tip every day on Facebook, as we wanted to inspire the industry to remain positive and busy,” says Tennille Hoge.

“And almost nine months later, we still share one every Tuesday.”

Visit Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies’ Facebook page for these informative, useful snippets each week.

STORY-TELLING TO CONSUMERS IN THE NEW NORMAL OF 2021 Strategies by which jewellery companies can associate the products they design and sell with consumers’ emotions was the subject of the Jewellery Industry Voices webinar, entitled “Jewellery as a Symbol for the Meanings of Life: Story-Telling to Consumers in the New Normal of 2021”, which took place on 19 November.

A recent survey by Platinum Guild International (PGI) of the platinum jewellery industry’s key global markets – the USA, China, Japan and India – showed that consumers are actually prepared to spend more on jewellery in the wake of the global pandemic.

Jewellery’s resilience during challenging

times is legendary and is – to no small degree – a function of its almost unmatched capacity to symbolise sentiments such as love and appreciation, particularly when the need for person-to-person connections is elevated. Due to the COVID-19 crisis, this is a quality that will most likely still be sought well into the new year.

In presenting the results of the PGI survey, the authors of the report recommended that jewellery retailers invest in products which hold symbolic value, either personally – such as career milestones or new life stages – or interpersonal, reaffirming relationships. “Jewellers are advised to constantly rejuvenate designs and upgrade

manufacturing to better produce pieces that carry symbolic meaning,” they wrote. “With the aid of marketing campaigns and storytelling, these pieces can further forge an emotional connection among consumers.”

The webinar’s panelists included Zhenzhen Liu, Director: Global Corporate Marketing, PGI in Hong Kong, China, Evert deGraeve, founder and Designer: EDG Design Studio, China/ USA, Inezita Gay-Eckel, teacher and Community Manager, L’École School of Jewelry Arts, France and Tarang Arora, Creative Director: Amrapali Jewels, India.

The seminar was co-moderated by Edward Johnson and Steven Benson and was sponsored

by PGI, which is also the platinum sponsor of Jewellery Industry Voices Season 2.

SAJN |ADVERTORIAL

(Above): Armbands designed by Stacy Beukes of the Ruth Prowse School of Art. (Right): A pendant by Kgabo Justice Makibelo from The Platinum Incubator.

(Below): This pendant by Alexander Rawháni from Shoreh Custom Made placed fourth in the student/apprentice category.

Men’s jewellery shines at P The 21st annual PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition, hosted this year in partnership with African Fashion International, saw an exclusive focus on men’s jewellery, a fast-growing but underserviced market segment.

(Above): Lungile Xhwantini from The Platinum Incubator's winning bracelet.

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THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR’S LUNGILE Xhwantini won the professional category with his armpiece “Sacred Shackle”, while Ross Kellerman from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology’s kinetic armpiece of platinum and African blackwood took top honours in the student & apprentice category. Malefa Phoofolo from Tinsel won the People’s Choice Award for her brooch “Crown of Glory”, which garnered the most votes on Anglo American’s Facebook

page. She also placed second in the student & apprentice category.

Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum in partnership with Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International (PGI) India, PlatAfrica aims to promote innovation and technical expertise in platinum jewellery design and manufacturing in South Africa and provide international exposure to jewellers, apprentices and students.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

ADVERTORIAL|SAJN

PlatAfrica aims to promote innovation and technical expertise in platinum jewellery design and manufacturing in South Africa and provide international exposure to jewellers, apprentices and students.

(Above): Cufflinks by Thembi Maduna from Vijay Shah Concepts.

Speaking at the awards ceremony In November, Natascha Viljoen, CEO of Anglo American Platinum, said: “PlatAfrica is a shining example of our country’s best creative talent in action, and Anglo American Platinum is proud to have been able to support this tremendous competition since its inception. As so often in times of crisis, our market development team, working with our partners, had to find some innovative ways this year for PlatAfrica to go ahead as Covid-19 significantly disrupted businesses and educational institutions.

“Our partnership with AFI is one example of the work we’ve been doing with our local industry and global partners to explore new and innovative ways to facilitate access to new markets and grow sustainable demand for South African produced jewellery and design.

We believe there is a significant opportunity to develop and grow the local platinum jewellery industry, thereby contributing to job creation and economic growth.”

PlatAfrica 2020

(Left, from top): This armpiece by Rajesh Shah of J Hind Jewellers received a special mention in the professional category and tie pin by Thembelihle Sishi of the Durban University of Technology.

(Above, from top): This brooch by Malefa Phoofolo received the People's Choice award; this reverse double-finger ring by Jane Merrifield, of Tuesday's Child Jewellery Design, placed third in the professional category and armpiece by Rajesh Shah of J Hind Jewellers.

The finalists’ pieces in both the student/apprentice and professional categories are available on the AFI boutique at www.afiboutique.com. All other PlatAfrica 2020 pieces are available for sale on www.metcon.co.za. Models dressed by Carducci.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

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SAJN|WATCHES THE RICHEMONT GROUP HAS CANCELLED Geneva Watches & Wonders (W&W), which was scheduled for early next year.

The official announcement from W&W was as follows: “Due to the current health crisis, the W&W Geneva Exhibitor Committee has taken the decision not to hold the physical salon, scheduled for 7-13 April 2021. An all-digital edition will be proposed on the same dates at www.watchesandwonders.com with new services and features.”

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chanel and Chopard have confirmed that they, too, will cancel their planned fair activities in April, having withdrawn from Baselworld earlier this year and announced that they would appear at a Geneva show at the same time as W&W. The year 2020 will be remembered beyond any for its political and health upheavals on a truly global scale. In the watch and clock industry, the traditional upmarket Swiss footfall trade fairs, by whatever fancy names they have been called, have lost their way. With this there has been abrogation of responsibility for safeguarding the Swiss “brand” identity.

Perhaps division and fragmentation are not particular problems for the big, established, wealthy brands, but with the compounding arrival of the global pandemic, they are reporting some very poor results. For the first quarter of 2020, the Richemont Group reported its retail and wholesale sales had decreased by 43% and 65%, respectively, due to “temporary store closures, severely reduced tourism and generally weak consumer sentiment”. However, the Richemont specialist watchmakers’ sales decreased by a whopping 56% due to the abovementioned factors, a comparatively low exposure to China and low online retail penetration worldwide.

Similarly, the Swatch Group’s first-quarter results suffered only a slightly smaller sales contraction of 46,1%, resulting in an operating loss of CHF327 million, compared with an operating profit of CHF547 million during the same period of 2019.

In Switzerland, 6 000 Swatch Group employees out of a total of 23 000 were on reduced hours and pay. However – with all due credit to Swatch policy – they did keep their jobs.

The LVMH Group reported a relatively modest contraction of first-quarter revenue of just 26%.

(Above): With a 41 mm case and at just 2 mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept sets the record for the world’s thinnest mechanical hand-wound watch. Made from a cobaltbased high-tech alloy and alligator leather reinforced with Kevlar, the Piaget Cal 900P-UC offers 28 800 VPH, 44 hours’ power reserve and functions of hours with minutes offset at 12 o’clock. It is black PVD-treated and has a satin-brushed baseplate and case-back. Priced at approximately £23 000.

(Right): New from Patek Philippe is this Ref 6301P Grande Sonnerie, which automatically strikes the full hours and quarter-hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented by a petite sonnerie (silent on the quarter-hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand) and patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum, as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel.

This very fine addition to the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces has a price of CHF1 150 000.

All the brands expressed optimism about a return to positive trading results for the rest of the year, but that was prior to the rapidly escalating “second wave” of COVID-19 infections now sweeping Europe and the USA. Pitted against this, we must remember that retail results vary wildly. What is more, it would seem that not everybody desires a new watch. The London Daily Telegraph reports that online retailer WatchBox has seen sales of branded vintage wristwatches (up to £100 000) increase by 48% in 2020.

In June, Phillips’ London vintage watch auction raised £25 million, a record for a timepiece sale. Watch-buyers now account for

Upheavals for Swiss fairs continue

16

The current European COVID-19 flare-up has resulted in cancellations of Geneva fairs scheduled for 2021. We must hope for a return to more stable times, writes reviewer for the Horological Journal in the UK, Martin Foster.

46% of all new auction buyers at Sotheby’s.

However, for the industry’s global press, which has provided decades of reader/buyer access to new releases, the job is now considerably harder. With the demise of the trade fair format, the collective buyer footfall for the smaller makers no longer exists and the industry’s selling platform has more or less evaporated.

This creates a promising opportunity for the Munich Inhorgenta to capture the smaller exhibitors, who feel the Swiss industry has let them down. And lately, Inhorgenta has been working aggressively to expand its watch brands coverage.

A very big move has now been made in this respect by Inhorgenta shifting its traditional

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

WATCHES|SAJN

We must hope for a return to more stable times, as online digital accessibility simply cannot compare with the competitive interaction of all the exhibitors present at a footfall-based traditional trade fair.

February dates to April – concurrent with the new Basel dates (and the now cancelled Geneva W&W arrangements).

The Baselworld management MCH Group recently announced a decision to return to the Basel Exhibition complex with the new HOURUNIVERSE show, also in April next year. It remains to be seen whether Munich Inhorgenta and HOURUNIVERSE will actually tough it out in the hope that a vaccine is developed, manufactured, distributed and administered widely enough to open up global travel for press, agents and buyers. At the time of writing, there were encouraging reports of a largely effective, safe vaccine from Pfizer – but

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

the logistics remain challenging.

The September Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (HKW&CF) was cancelled following the pandemic and political instability in that region. The Hong Kong Trade Development Council has made the following official announcement concerning the HKW&CF: “After consultation… a decision has been made to migrate the fair online, consolidating with other fairs into HKTDC Autumn Sourcing Week – online. The online exhibition will be held from 16-27 November 2020, enabling the industry to continue exploring business opportunities. Meanwhile, the 37th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition, which aims to discover new design talents for the industry, will proceed as planned…”

Of course, given the circumstances, there was simply no alternative for Hong Kong.

But we must hope for a return to more stable times, as online digital accessibility simply cannot compare with the competitive interaction of all the exhibitors present at a footfall-based traditional trade fair.

After all, a “digital event” is what you call an event when you are not having an event.

(Above): MB&F has produced the Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a visually stunning in-house movement, developed to bypass the weaknesses of perpetual calendar mechanisms.

This 581-component, fully integrated movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed to be user-friendly, utilising an innovative “mechanical processor”, avoiding skipping dates. In addition, for complete safety, the adjuster pushers automatically disengage when the calendar changes.

Available online for approximately £151 000.

(Left): Christophe Claret pushes the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating fields of research not previously applied in this domain. The X-TREM-1 involves a system driven by magnetic fields displaying the hours and minutes by two hollow spheres. The timepiece has a dual-barrel calibre – one for the movement gear train and the other for the time indications. The price is approximately £146 000.

(Below): NOMOS introduces a new stainless steel Lambda available in white, black or blue dials, limited to just 175 pieces each, to honour 175 years of German watchmaking of the Glashütte enclave. The NOMOS hand-wound calibre DUW 1001 is regulated according to chronometer standards. The movement observes the exacting criteria of Glashütte fine watchmaking and is produced in the NOMOS Atelier. Twin mainspring barrels with a reserve of 84 hours, swan-neck fine adjustment, sunbeam polishing, a hand-engraved balance cock and hand-bevelling (anglage) make this movement a work of art. It is priced very reasonably, at £7 000.

17

IT’S ABOUT THE SPARKLE

Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa Office: +27 11 268 6980 • Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za • www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST|SAJN

And the Oscar for the top performer in 2020 goes to… everyone!

Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.

HOW DO YOU REWARD performance for a year like 2020? Some organisations have canned all forms of performance rewards due to the erosion of their traditional measures and the tsunami of forced technological transformation. There have been employees in companies who have worked triple time out of necessity and because they possess critical skills sets. There have also been employees who have not been able to perform at any acceptable level due to circumstances beyond their control. So who gets the performance reward?

Regardless of whether there was too much or too little work, the top performer award should go to everyone who persevered through 2020 and the adjudication will be made on one criterion alone – courage. “Captain Courageous” is the best and most appropriate accolade you could award yourself and your employees for enduring the pandemic pandemonium of 2020 (which is where we all hope it will stay).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

I know one client whose employees not only adapted to and persisted through the lockdown, but also had to deal with the tragic and sudden loss of a fellow colleague. I am sharing this because the trauma counsellor who conducted the debriefing for the staff spoke on the same theme of courage. Then, very recently, I participated in an international online meeting with tertiary educators and there, too, the theme of courage was reiterated. 2020 will be remembered for many reasons, but mostly as a year of global courage and grit. “Success is not final and failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts,” declared Winston Churchill. If we subscribe to that notion, then simply by continuing, we are displaying courage.

Many organisations traditionally begin their new year by setting (or finalising) their strategic objectives. Part of that strategic process, which I am sure you know well, consists of stringent analysis of the previous

without sufficiently exploring or analysing any positives or innovations. The problem with this “normal” approach is that it hijacks real analysis because of the overwhelming domination of the negatives, especially when you start listing what did not work. To counter this and conduct a better strategic analysis, start with the positive, even if there does not seem to be much of it to analyse. Deliberately seek the positives and exhaust them, before going on to the negatives, and you will find that your analysis tool is more robust and relevant. (This tip was adapted from Dr Edward de Bono’s Six Thinking Hats (Penguin).)

So whether you are rewarding the performance of an individual or conducting strategic analyses, have courage and focus on the positives. Reward as many and as much as possible, and take that same positive sentiment forward into strategically analysing what you and your business did achieve in 2020.

year’s strategy. Analysing 2020 could be a negative experience, depending on how your particular business was affected. So it may take still more courage to apply the following concept, which has been alluded to before in this column, but is worth mentioning again: when you analyse 2020, your analysis process could be disastrously derailed because of the

Let us continue in courage as we enter 2021 – and may it be a far more uplifting and rewarding year for us all!

sheer avalanche of bad experiences and loss in 2020. While this may be the reality, strong negative emotions and experiences often cause people to default by first looking at all the problems, challenges and difficulties encountered during a strategic analysis session,

2020 will be remembered for many reasons, but mostly as a year of global courage and grit.

19

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr PetrĂŠ Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

13 ISSUE 14

CHAPTER 2 GEMSTONES A-Z A GLOSSARY OF TERMS AND SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF IMPORTANT GEMSTONES AND SOME LOOK-ALIKES Peridot, chrysolite

Emerald, tourmaline

Rhodolite

Ruby

Garnet, almandite

Citrine, amber

Amethyst, alexandrite

Smoky quartz

Blue sapphire, iolite

Black sapphire

Sky-blue topaz

Diamond

Agate Alabaster Alexandrite Almandite Amazon stone Amber Amethyst Ametrine Ammolite Andalusite Apatite Aquamarine Benitoite Beryl Bloodstone Blue John Cairngorm Carnelian Cat’s eye Chalcedony Chrysoberyl Chrysoprase Citrine Coral Corundum Crystal Cubic zirconia Demantoid Desert rose Diamond Diopside Dioptase

Grossularite Gypsum

Pyrite Pyrope

Heliodor Hematite Hessonite Hydrogrossular Iceland spar Indicolite Iolite Ivory

Quartz

Jade Jadeite Jasper Jet Kunzite Labradorite Lapis lazuli Mackle Malachite Mandarin garnet Marble Marcasite Moldavite Moonstone Morganite Mother-of-pearl

Elbaite Emerald

Nacre Nephrite Obsidian Olivine Onyx Opal

Feldspar Fluorite Fool’s gold Garnet Goldstone

Padparadscha Paraíba Paste Pearl Peridot

Rhinestone Rhodochrosite Rhodolite Rock crystal Royal lavulite Rubellite Ruby Sapphire Sardonyx Serpentine Shorl Soapstone Sodalite Spinel Sugulite Sunstone Talc Tanzanite Tashmarine Tiger’s eye Topaz Tortoise shell Tourmaline Tsavorite Turquoise YAG Zircon Zoisite

AN INTRODUCTION GEMSTONES TOA-Z GEMSTONES

AGATE

Polished slab of an agate geode.

Agate is a semi-precious gem and a variety of the mineral chalcedony.

The name is derived from the Achates River in Sicily. Agate was known to primitive man and, in the Middle Ages, was believed to cure insomnia and protect a warrior in battle. It consists of micro-crystalline needles of quartz and normally has curved or angular bands of lighter and darker colour or an intriguing array of internal patterns.

Among the many varieties are: moss agate (which has green or Agate cameo. brown inclusions that look like moss), fire agate (which shows rainbow colours against a brown body colour), blue lace agate (a light blue banded agate) and picture agate (concentric bands with quartz crystals). It is often dyed in bright colours and, when polished into slices, used as decoration or glass mats.

mystical, almost supernatural quality. The more prominent these colour changes, the more expensive the gem. It was discovered in the Ural Mountains in Russia in 1831, reportedly on the 21st birthday of Count Alexander II, hence the name. Newer discoveries were made in Sri Lanka, Brazil, Tanzania and Zimbabwe.

Alexandrite showing colour changes from green to violet-red.

Synthetic alexandrite is available and very difficult to distinguish from the natural gem. Large quantities of synthetic spinel that also show a purplish-green colour change were produced in the past. The public often believe these to be “real” alexandrite, especially if it was bought in Egypt during WWII. Natural alexandrite of about 0,50ct with average colour change proper ties can be bought from US$250/ct.

However, the finest-quality 1-2ct gems showing distinct colour changes from pure green to red can fetch up to US$6 000/ct.

ALMANDITE

Polished slab of picture agate.

Moss agate.

ALABASTER Alabaster is a fine-grained, white or creamy-coloured (sometimes streaky) variety of gypsum.

It is softer than marble and often used for statues and ornaments. The translucent variety is more expensive than the opaque types.

Modern alabaster lamp showing a white translucent shade and streaky pedestal.

ALEXANDRITE Alexandrite is one of the accepted birthstones for June.

It is a rare gem and a variety of the mineral chrysoberyl.

It changes colour from raspberry red under artificial light to various shades of green in sunlight. This gives the gem a

Almandite is a variety of the garnet family and is the birthstone for January. It is normally purplish-red - costing US$10-12/ct - while the purplish (grape) colours from India can cost up to US$30/ct. It is found in nearly all countries. In the Old Testament, garnet is frequently referred to: Moses ordered that the high priest’s breastplate be studded with garnets and other gems.

Garnets are described in more detail under G.

AMAZON STONE Also known as amazonite. This is a semi-precious variety of the feldspar mineral group and occurs as massive finegrained pieces with a pale bluish-green colour transected by white calcite veins. It may be confused with pale turquoise, and is normally cut cabochon or into ornaments. It is mined in Namaqualand, Namibia and many other countries and is often found as tumbled Amazonite crystals. pebbles in “scratch patches”.

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AMETHYST

AMBER Amber is an organic gem that formed when resin from trees that lived between 10 and 100 million years ago was fossilised. Most amber ranges in colour from light to dark yellow, brown or reddish-orange, and sometimes contains perfectly preserved specimens of flies and insects that became trapped while the resin was still fluid.

It is mostly of an opaque (turbid) nature showing “flow structures”. Under controlled heating, such turbid amber becomes transparent and, during cooling, develops discoid fractures known as “sun spangles”. Amber is extremely light and a chunky neckpiece will feel feather-light.

Two-thirds of the world’s amber deposits are found along the Baltic Coast. Other sources are from the Dominican Republic, Siberia, Lebanon and Sicily.

Lore The Greeks believed amber was formed from the tears of the sisters of a Greek god. The sisters helped their brother on a fatal horse ride and, as their punishment, were turned into trees.

Their perpetual tears were hardened by the sun and turned into amber. The rooms in the palace of Queen Catherine in Leningrad were adorned by beautiful plaques of natural amber.

In 1942, the Germans confiscated these precious plaques and carried them away. The restoration of the “amber room” in later years required six tons of choice amber.

Care and cleaning Amber is a little softer than pearl, so it needs to be handled with care. It melts at very low temperatures (don’t wear it while cooking) and is damaged by alcohol (keep it away from perfume). Clean amber with warm, soapy water. Transparent pieces with preserved insects can cost up to thousands of US dollars, while good-quality translucent beads sell for a few hundred dollars per string.

Identification Plastic imitations will smell like plastic. Amber will also float in seawater. A hot needle onto genuine amber will leave a mark and produce an acrid, pungent smell.

Amethyst, the accepted birthstone for February, is a pale lilac to nearly blackish-purple variety of the mineral quartz (SiO2) and is mined in nearly all countries.

The pale colours are often referred to as rose de France . Those from Zambia and Russia show reddish flashes and are valued more than those with a grey overtone. Prices range from US$10-15/ct for fine gems up to 5ct, and can increase to US$30/ct for larger gems.

However, if the gem is larger than 25ct, its price per carat decreases as jewellers find it hard to design jewellery with Amethyst, 8ct (left) and such large stones. rose de France 6ct.

Synthetics Synthetic amethyst has been made by the ton and has pushed the price of natural stones down to that of the man-made product. Although a gemmologist will be able to identify the synthetic nature of an amethyst, very few jewellers know the difference between natural and synthetic amethysts.

Lore Legend has it that the Greek god, Bacchus, in a drunken stupor, vowed to kill the first person he saw. Fatefully, the lovely maiden Amethyst passed by and Bacchus set loose a horde of wild beasts. Amethyst cried out to the goddess Diana, who could not stop the beasts, but used the only thing in her power and turned Amethyst into a statue of pure white marble. When Bacchus realised what he had done, he repented and threw the last of his wine over the statue, which immediately turned a beautiful purple.

Amethyst has played a part in religion since ancient Egypt.

It was the ninth gem in the breastplate of the high priest of Israel and the gem of the tribe of Dan. It has long been used in bishops’ rings and its purple colour adorns the garments of church officials and kings.

AMETRINE Also called trystine, amethyst-citrine or golden amethyst. As its name implies, it is a variety of quartz that displays purple and yellow colours in the same gem. Originally discovered in 1979 in Brazil, it was later also mined in Bolivia. Some ametrine occurs naturally, while others are produced by careful heating of amethyst. Natural gems can cost up to US$50/ct.

Emerald-cut ametrine, 11ct.

GEMSTONES A-Z

AMMOLITE Ammolite is fossilised ammonite, a coiled shellfish that existed some 65 to 410 million years ago. The name “ammonite” comes from the ancient Egyptian god Ammon, who is represented by the head of a ram with coiled horns. Ammonite fossils are found worldwide, but in only one locality (in Canada’s Alberta province) do these fossils display a vibrant array of colours that resemble a combination of opal and fire agate. Ammolite was discovered in 1908, but it was not until 1981 that sufficient gem-quality material was unearthed to justify mining. Between 10-45 kilograms are produced annually.

Value It is a most unusual gem and relatively scarce. It is priced per square millimetre and a 1 x 2 cm gem can cost US$2502 500 per piece, depending on the number of colours it displays. It is often available as triplets priced from US$1001 000 per gem.

ANDALUSITE

Andalusite showing pleochroic colours.

In the 1970s, andalusite, an aluminium silicate, was used in the manufacture of spark plugs. The first gem discoveries in Andalusia, Spain, were of poor quality, while later discoveries from Sri Lanka and Brazil produced exceptional stones popular with collectors.

Andalusite is highly pleochroic (brown to yellowishgreen or brownish-orange to brownish-red) and can be confused with golden-brown bicolour tourmaline. It has a hardness of 7-7,5. Prices range from US$80 to more than US$150/ct and gems of up to 6ct are available.

blue and purple (Maine, USA), pink and reddish-brown.

Its name is derived from the Greek mythological goddess of deceit, trickery and fraud, Apate, who found diseases, sorrows, vices and crimes inside Pandora’s box.

Apatite normally comes in small sizes and extra-fine qualities from 1-3ct sell for about US$80/ct.

Enhancements The natural green apatite is normally heated to create neon colours. If blue, it resembles the colour of either Paraíba tourmaline or, when green, it has a colour similar to that of chrome diopside.

Care and cleaning Apatite is fairly soft, with a hardness of 5,0. It should thus be used only in brooches, pendants and earrings or in a setting that will protect the gem.

AQUAMARINE Aquamarine means “sea water”. It belongs to the mineral group beryl and is the birthstone for March. Most aquas are heat-treated to remove the hint of green. This process is accepted as standard trade practice and the colour enhancement is permanent. Such heat treatment is difficult to detect, as aquamarine is often devoid of inclusions which normally indicate heating, because they become shattered or molten at high temperatures.

The chemistry of aqua is quite complex and difficult to duplicate. Synthetic aquamarine is thus scarce and expensive.

Africa and South America are the world’s most important sources for aquamarine.

Lore Aquamarine was extensively used in ancient Greek jewellery and was also discovered in Egyptian tombs of 2000 BC. It is said to protect sailors and heal broken relationships.

Care Andalusite has a distinct cleavage, so care should be taken with its setting. Avoid ultrasonic and steam-cleaners.

APATITE Apatite is a calcium phosphate. Its natural colour is pine green (Madagascar), but it also occurs in yellow (Mexico),

Value Fine-quality aquas in the 2ct range are US$50-250/ct, depending on their clarity and colour. Those from Zambia are sometimes regarded as “collection quality” and can reach prices of up to US$900/ct. Mozambique aquas usually show strong dark blue colours, while those from Brazil come in all shades of blue.

ISSUE 14

BENITOITE

CAIRNGORM

Benitoite is an extremely rare gem that looks like blue sapphire. It was discovered in 1907 and is mined at only one locality in California. It serves mainly as a collector’s gem and can cost as much as US$1 000/ct.

Another name for smoky quartz, originally from the Cairngorm mountains in Scotland.

BERYL

A low-intensity red to orange colour chalcedony of semitransparent nature. It resembles jade and fire opal of similar colour and is often imitated by glass.

Ber yl is the group name for minerals containing the rare element ber yllium. The Greeks used the name “ber yl” to describe any green gemstone. Red ber yl and goshenite are rare varieties, the former extremely expensive. The other varieties are described individually.

CARNELIAN

CAT’S EYE When people talk about cat’s eye, they normally mean chrysoberyl - the most beautiful of all chatoyant gems. These gems show a band of light reflection that rolls over its surface as the gem is tilted. It has to be cut cabochon to show this effect. Other gems that can show this effect are silicified asbestos (tiger’s eye) and tourmaline.

CHALCEDONY Chalcedony is a semi-transparent white, grey, bluish-green, grey to black, fine-grained quar tz (SiO2). It sometimes resembles moonstone without the floating bluish reflection.

CHRYSOBERYL Beryl varieties: goshenite (colourless), aquamarine (blue), morganite (pink), heliodor (orange), emerald (green and red beryl.

BLOODSTONE Bloodstone, also known as heliotrope, is an ornamental gem and is also used in men’s jewellery as the birthstone for March.

It consists of a groundmass of chalcedony with abundant chlorite inclusions (green) speckled with red jasper. The purer its green and brighter its red, the more valuable the gem. It became very popular in the time of the Crusaders, as its folklore signifies the blood of Christ on a field of green.

BLUE JOHN

Polished bloodstone.

Another name for massive fluorite that occurs as purple curved or angular bands on a reddish to colourless background. From the French blue et jaune, meaning “blue and yellow”. Often carved into ornaments or used as beads.

This mineral is a beryllium aluminium oxide and is seen most often as the honeycoloured gem called cat’s eye when it has a silkiness (due to numerous parallel needle-like inclusions) and a sharp “eye” that rolls over a cabochon Cat’s eye chrysoberyl cabochons. cut gem as it is turned.

Transparent yellow-green to brownish varieties are often facetted.The purer the yellow, the more expensive the gem.

The most expensive variety of chrysoberyl exhibits colour changes, from green to red, under different light sources and is called alexandrite (described under A in this chapter).

CHRYSOPRASE Chrysoprase is a semitransparent to translucent variety of chalcedony that has a pale to medium yellowishgreen colour. It may be confused with jadeite, jade

Chrysoprase cabochon.

GEMSTONES A-Z

substitutes, serpentine and glass imitations. Its SG is normally 2,6, which is useful in identification.

CITRINE Transparent quartz with light to dark yellow, yellowish-brown, orange-brown colours are called citrine, the accepted birthstone for November. Unfortunately, many jewellers still call these gems topaz or topaz-quartz. Citrine can be confused with real topaz, beryl, tourmaline and glass imitations.

Opaque corundum is a commercial mineral and is mined and crushed to produce abrasives. The presence of trace amounts of other elements causes different colours. When corundum is transparent with a red colour, it is called ruby, while all other colours are named sapphire. These gems are described under ruby and sapphire.

CRYSTAL Some jewellers use the name “crystal” to describe any colourless transparent material that has been facetted. Trade names such as “Swarovski crystals” are well known, while a colourless, very pure form of quartz is called “rock crystal”.

Trilliant-shaped citrine, 8,5ct.

Most citrine is actually amethyst that has been heated to change its colour to yellow. Its name is derived from citron, a lemon-like fruit. It is plentiful, not expensive and quite a durable gem. Avoid all heat.

CORAL Coral is the semi-translucent to opaque, branch-like skeleton of a colony of marine invertebrates.

CUBIC ZIRCONIA Cubic zirconia (also called CZ) has, since 1976, been an important synthetic gemstone. It is an isometric crystalline form of zirconium dioxide (ZrO2) and should not be confused with the mineral zircon, which is a zirconium silicate (ZrSiO4). Although expensive when it first appeared on the market as a diamond look-alike, CZ today can be bought for a few dollars per carat. Most jewellers should be able to identify cubic zirconia.

DEMANTOID

Blood coral cabochon.

Bamboo coral bracelet.

Gem coral occurs in white, pink, orange, red, blue, violet, golden and black colours. The dark red “ox-blood” colours are the most expensive. Coral has been treasured since ancient times and was believed to protect its wearer from the “evil eye” (the source of nearly all sicknesses) and also as an aid to fertility.

Most corals consist of calcium carbonate and will fizz under hydrochloric acid. However, the golden and black varieties consist of a horny substance and will emit a burnt-hair odour when touched by a hot needle.

Coral is readily available from Japanese waters, the Mediterranean, and Red Sea. It needs to be handled with relative care, as its hardness is about 3,5. Avoid all acids, detergents and heat of any kind.

Demantoid is the yellowishgreen to green variety of andradite garnet and the most expensive of all garnets.

The name derives from its ability to break up light into spectral colours and its adamantine (diamond-like) Demantoid garnets. lustre. It was discovered in the Ural Mountains in the mid-19th century and became a very popular gem of the czars. After the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, the mines were shut and its availability decreased. Modern discoveries in Namibia, Arizona and Mexico are producing small quantities. Gems over 3ct are rare. Fine qualities of 1-2ct can be priced from US$700-2 000/ct, while larger gems can fetch upwards of US$10 000/ct. Although demantoids are normally eye clean, diagnostic golden-coloured “horse-tail” inclusions (fibres of an asbestos mineral) can sometimes be seen, especially in gems of Russian origin.

The gem’s hardness is 6,5 and it needs to be handled with care.

CORUNDUM

DESERT ROSE

Corundum is a mineral of extreme hardness (H=9) and consists of the elements aluminum and oxygen (Al2O3).

In the Namib Desert and elsewhere, the elements calcium and sulphur are dissolved in ground water. When such

ISSUE 14

ground water evaporates, sand-encrusted gypsum minerals resembling a flower crystallise below the surface of the sand.

They are mineral curiosities and thus collectable, but do not qualify as a proper gem. The hardness of gypsum is only 2.

polished to enhance their beauty. Their size, colour, clarity and the quality of cut determine the value of each gem.

Prices can vary from US$300/ct for smalls, while the famous 1,00 carat/D colour/flawless/round brilliant cut can cost up to US$25 000/ct.

Diamonds are classified into three types: Type Ia - Diamonds containing trace amounts of nitrogen, which imparts a faint to fancy yellow colour. Nearly all natural diamonds are of this type.

Type Ib - Containing small amounts of nitrogen. Nearly all synthetic diamonds are of this type.

Type IIa - Colourless, brown or pink diamonds with almost undetectable amounts of trace elements.

A cluster of 4 cm-long blade-like gypsum crystals.

DIAMOND

Type IIb - Diamonds which are grey or bluish due to trace amounts of boron. They can act as electrical semi-conductors.

History From the Greek “adamas”, meaning “invincible, the unconquerable”. It is the hardest material on earth and consists of only carbon. Being relatively scarce, with unique optical and physical properties, desired by man for centuries, it attained an allure unsurpassed by other gems.

Image courtesy De Beers

Diamonds were first mined in the 4th century in Golconda, Southern India. In 1730 they were also discovered in Brazil, but remained rare gems Rough diamond crystals. worn only by rulers and aristocracy. In 1866, much larger deposits were discovered in South Africa where the industry soon became monopolised and the era of mass consumers dawned. The tradition of the diamond as a symbol of engagement is said to have begun when Archduke Maximilian of Austria (1459-1519) gave a diamond to Mary of Burgundy, his wife-to-be.

De Beers made diamonds a household name by using the slogan “a diamond is forever”. It became one of the most famous slogans of the 20th century.

Type III - Diamonds from meteorites with a hexagonal crystal structure.

Treatments Their appearance (colour and inclusions) can be improved by man. Fractures can be filled by resin, while dark inclusions can be removed by laser drilling. High-temperature, highpressure (HP/HT) techniques are available to remove the brown colour of a Type IIa diamond. Most of these enhancements can be identified by a qualified gemmologist.

Synthetic diamonds Synthetic gem-quality diamonds have been produced by laboratories and are slowly appearing on the market.

Most of these are strongly coloured, but in future, large colourless synthetic diamonds will be available.

Fortunately, gem laboratories are able to identify synthetic diamonds.

Synthetic rough diamond.

Care and cleaning Characteristics and types The “normal” colour of diamond is pale to dark yellow or brown. Ninety percent of the world’s production is of industrial quality, ie, opaque, and is used as an abrasive or in cutting tools.

Gem-quality diamonds are transparent and are cut and

Although diamond is the hardest material on earth, it is not the toughest. A hard knock or rubbing against other diamonds may cause it to break or at least be chipped.

Diamonds need to be cleaned properly to retain their sparkle. Steam or ultrasonic cleaning is best, but a toothbrush and a little ammonia detergent will also do the job.

SEASON'S GREETINGS This festive season, we would like to wish our members, friends and colleagues all the best for the New Year and a prosperous 2021.

Wishing all our customers a Merry Christmas and blessed new year.

May you have a blessed festive season.

Wishing our clients and colleagues a wonderful festive season.

Merry Christmas and happy New Year!

Tel: (011) 484-5528 Fax: 086 504 9512 E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za www.jewellery.org.za

Tel: (012) 326-8348 / (012) 328-5996 Fax: (012) 325-7097 E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com www.smwatch.co.za

Tel: (011) 418-1600 Fax: (011) 825-4043 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za www.richlinegroup.com

To our partners in the jewellery industry.Wishing you happiness and prosperity over the Holiday Season.

Thank you for all your support throughout the year

We would like to wish all our members, colleagues and friends a blessed festive season and a prosperous 2021.

Tel: (011) 418-9000 Fax: (011) 418-9231 E-mail: gold@gold.co.za www.randrefinery.com

Tel: (011) 334-1930 Fax: 086 516 5958 E-mail: diamonds@diamonds.org.za www.diamonds.org.za

Wishing all our friends and colleagues a wonderful festive season and a New Year filled with happiness and prosperity.

Tel: (011) 642-2018/9 Fax: (011) 642-2016 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za

BLINGle Bells, BLINGle Bells!

May your festive season be full of all things gold & beautiful JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine Tel: (011) 883-4627 Editor: jason@isikhova.co.za Sales: jenny@isikhova.co.za www.jewellerysa.co.za

We would like to wish all our customers a blessed festive season and a prosperous 2021. From the Bassano Gioielli team.

Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164 Fax: (011) 704-4002 www.bassanogioielli.com

The SA Jewellery News team wishes you a wonderful festive season and a happy New Year.

Tel: (011) 883-4627 Editor: adri@isikhova.co.za Sales: jenny@isikhova.co.za www.isikhova.co.za www.jewellerysa.co.za

SAJN |2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

2020 a year full of challenges and opportunities

2020 has been a challenging year for most industries.

However, it also brought with it new responsibilities and opportunities. Twelve industry players share some of the most important life and business lessons they have learnt this year and what they arelooking forward to in the one ahead.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW|SAJN

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MICHAEL PNEUMA PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

even by the very high standards of Japan, as well as by international ones. This boosted his confidence not only in himself, but also in the ability of South African jewellery to fulfil top international requiremements. His jewellery has also been exhibited and sold in London, Hong Kong and Shanghai.

In 1983, at the age of just 19, Pneuma started as a trainee in the manufacturing and repairing of jewellery. This process took four hard working years at three different companies, where he received specialised training in Italian and Arabic classic and traditional jewellery manufacture. In 1987, Pneuma was fully qualified and started his own business. In 1999, he produced a unique collection which was exhibited in Osaka, Japan.

All pieces manufactured for the exhibition sold out within two days of the event. This made him aware that his design and manufacturing skills, as well as the materials used, were desirable

DEBORAH DREYER DIAMDREY

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

During the lockdown, it became abundantly clear that most of our running costs needed to be reduced, our productivity elevated and

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

I think 2020 will always remain the most challenging one I’ve ever experienced. A Jeweller’s Permit renewal year (every five years) is always a busy one for me and I have to carefully prepare for it, add a new Mining Charter and

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

Helping previously trained students who were employed and have lost their jobs due to COVID-19 to operate successful SMMEs.

Michael Pneuma Jewellers CC Situated in Johannesburg’s Kyalami, Midrand, Pneuma Jewellers also offers services to the Mining Qualifications Authority for the writing and validation of all learning pathways, ie learnerships, skills programmes, goldsmith qualifications and diamond-setting. Our comany also offers graduate development programmes and learnerships. Michael Pneuma Jewellers became a part of the Graduate Development Programme as a training provider in 2005 and has trained over 200 industry-ready goldsmiths and diamond-setters to date. It aims to leave a legacy of excellence as a feeder of quality goldsmith and diamond-setters for the regeneration of massproduction manufacturers and the highest-quality goldsmiths for custom handmade jewellery.

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Deborah’s journey in the industry has to have been an incredibly stimulating 18-year, everevolving one. “Pre-2020, I would without a doubt have earmarked 2008 (the first implementation of the 2004 Mining Charter) as the impacting year for my development,” she says. “I got to meet and consult with licenceholders and companies on a one-on-one basis by appointment, and assist with the bloodcurdling conversion of the old ‘gold licence’ to the SA Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator [SADPMR] Jeweller’s Permit. Consulting from the boardroom of the old Jewellery Council, Jewel City, I formed relationships that still exist today with men and women of remarkable resilience to an ever-changing business world.

As things got tougher, so did the industry.”

the cost-savings passed on to our clients. I believe all companies in SA should be reducing the prices of their products so that they can retain their clients and survive. I also hope that for the next few years, the South African public will purchase only locally manufactured jewellery. The best of local is definitely as good as the best in the world.

throw in a Global Pandemic! Under threat of the “contaminated” outdoors, we were chased to home offices, forced to be suspicious and guarded about everyone who came within 1,5m. I’d worked from a home office for many years, so there was no big change there, but it's been quite lonely really, isolated from personal and business interactions, and deprived of physical handshaking and catching up over a cup of coffee.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

Personally I find myself resisting an online world. I’m hoping to see the end of the mask,

Diamdrey Diamdrey has specialist knowledge of the diamond and precious metals industry and has extensive knowledge of all industry matters, including the Mining Charter elements and SADPMR requirements.

The majority of its clients are diamond dealers, diamond polishers, manufacturing jewellers and refineries. Diamdrey demonstrates excellent communication and interpersonal skills, fortified by Deborah’s well-established professional relationships with a wide range of individuals and companies from diverse cultures and education levels. Diamdrey’s specialties include paralegal services, labour matters, transcription of hearings or any audio material, diamond and precious metal licensing and Mining Charter compliance solutions, as well as dealing with Department of Home Affairs and CIPC matters. and the return to personal interaction, meetings that don’t rely solely on gigs and uninterrupted wi-fi connectivity, the return off personal interaction, growing manufacturing and busy retail shop fronts.

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SAJN |2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

ANNA-B ZETLER ANNA-B JEWELLERY

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"This COVID-19 period has, in many ways, been a point of growth for me personally and for my company."

Although Zetler’s business has been in existence for over 20 years, she is still surprised by how much she enjoys the challenge and the product. She enjoys interacting not only with clients, but also with competitors. “Ultimately, however, it’s the pleasure of the product which really inspires me and drives me to source what ‘works’ for my clients,” she says.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

This COVID-19 period has, in many ways, been a point of growth for me personally and for my company. After the initial shock of not being able to trade, I moved into a period of soul-searching where I could really focus on the direction in which I wanted to move my business. For example, I suddenly had time to sort through many boxes of stock and found gems that had piled up over the years – assets at a time when sourcing stock was proving to be a huge challenge.

The inability to travel has been a huge adjustment and has forced me to change my method of buying.

COVID-19 has obviously taught me that things can change rapidly and unexpectedly.

It’s underscored how processes done in the past are no indication of how they should be

ISABELLA KOBELA ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Isabella initially worked as a nurse, having completed a nursing course at a North West hospital. However, while unsure of which sector she wanted to work in, she aimed to have her own business. She eventually decided on

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the jewellery industry and duly completed a goldsmithing course at the Bellville Jewellery Institute, a rough diamond evaluation course through the Diamond Education College and a refining and recycling course through Emak Refining & Recycling Systems. Having been in the industry for 21 years, she is passionate about jewellery and is stimulated by consistently creating new designs and products.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

I’ve always had a hands-on approach to solving problems, including coping with the COVID-19 pandemic. I’ve learnt to be flexible and to act fast – things that can be achieved with technology.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

I’m extremely excited about having an online shop so that our clients can order our products seamlessly.

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done in the future. Opportunities exist, but you need to be open to change; we need to think much more digitally.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

2021 will be the year of offering value and a broader product range to my clients; a year to focus on core lines and improving digital platforms, as well as traditional ones.

Anna-B Jewellery Anna-B Jewellery primarily supplies to national retailers, but recently began focusing on smaller retailers. “I feel the key to my company’s success has been diversification, from silver into stainless steel and then into fashion jewellery,” says Zetler. “As a result, we can react quickly to changing consumer preferences, be they driven by metal type, price or design.

“And my personal business rules apply as much as ever: 1) If it sells, it will sell again. 2) It’s not what you do, but how fast you do it. 3) Adapt or die – Darwinian theory that’s essential to business survival,” says Zetler.

Isabella Jewellers & Refiners CC Isabella Jewellers & Refiners is a Level 1 BBBEE contributor and a 100% black women-owned enterprise that operates in the jewellery manufacturing and precious metal refinery industry.

The company is skilful and efficient at processing precious metals (rated ISO: 9001 2008) and prides itself on being one of the few qualified and licensed jewellery manufactures and precious metal refiners in Gauteng.

Modern and improved technology is established to improve the processing of precious metals using its state-of-theart, environmentally friendly aqua regia gold refining plant and pyrometallurgical technology. With its focus on the full precious metals value chain and worldclass smelting and refining, it offers a wide range of tailored diverse needs to consumers, including value-added beneficiation of precious metals.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW|SAJN

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JANET SILK JANET SILK CC

Silk has been a part of the industry for 25 years now, from mining emeralds in Zambia with Montana Mining to silver electroforming with AfriSilver, to starting the first commercial tanzanite mine in Arusha with Tanzanite One (when they also started the Tanzanite Foundation).

“I then had a fabulous mid-life crisis in 2006, when I briefly thought farming strawberries would be a better idea, but ended up running my own wholesaling business for the

The proud owner of Italchain, Sofia Costaras has been in the jewellery industry for almost seven years and enjoys its camaraderie. She is truly passionate about jewellery and satisfying her clients’ needs.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

To appreciate life and understand the importance of spending quality time with my fam-

past 12 years or so. The overwhelming thing that keeps me hooked in this trade is the people,” says Silk. “I feel enormously privileged to have the relationships that I do with so many extraordinary members of our little community.

I suspect that the element of trust which runs through the vein of practically every transaction we do in our trade engenders a deeper connection than can be found in other industries.

“Then, of course, there are the sparkles! I’ve been a magpie since I was a little girl and still have the same sense of excitement and wonder when surrounded by magnificent gems and jewellery. They’re truly my life’s passion and they put a smile on my face every day.”

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

2020 has knee-capped us all and brought us down to basics. In trying to see the positives in this, it’s certainly made us all re-assess our values and realise what’s truly important.

Much of what we’re chasing doesn’t really matter in the greater scheme of things. The resilience of South Africans never ceases to amaze me. It’s inspiring to see how they’ve simply “got on with it”, thinking out of the box and finding other ways to survive.

I’ve always had a very healthy respect for overheads and luckily, we’ve maintained a very lean, hopefully not-so-mean operation, which has stood us in good stead. I’m enormously grateful that we’ve managed to keep our heads above water. We couldn’t have done so without the dedication and support of my amazing team in Jeanette and Shadé.

ily, whose love, support and encouragement inspire me daily. From a business perspective, this year has taught me to be innovative in the workplace.

“The downtime has allowed us to get our website up and running, which has been languishing in Pile 13 for years. I think this will help business, going forward,” says Silk.

“The bottom line is that our life, whether it be business or personal, is all about people and the relationships we have. I firmly believe that we’re put on this earth to help each other and this has come to the fore in these extremely trying times. I think our industry has been amazing in the way it’s pulled together and I must commend the SA Jewellery Council for the endless work it’s done to help shore us all up.”

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

Positivity, health, rational thinking, more tourists and enjoying the beautiful country we live in.

Janet Silk CC Things moved to a different level when Gemfields asked Silk to open an office for it in SA. Its offerings of loose tanzanite, morganite and sapphires then increased to include rubies and emeralds from Gemfields two enormous mines (the biggest in the world for rubies and emeralds) in Zambia and Mozambique.

In tandem to this, Janet Silk CC’s jewellery range has developed over the years, concentrating on the coloured gemstones in which it specialises and ensuring that the quality of the gemstones in its jewellery is impeccable.

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SOFIA COSTARAS ITALCHAIN

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

Italchain will be offering an opportunity to a young person entering the jewellery trade. We are also really excited about new developments with our new stock, to be revealed.

Italchain Johannesburg-based Italchain is a wholesale company established in 2014. It supplies silver chains and jewellery imported from the highest-quality factories in Italy and Greece and prides itself on its excellent service and high-quality jewellery.

"From a business perspective, this year has taught me to be innovative in the workplace."

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

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SAJN |2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

RONALD UNGAR UNGAR BROTHERS CC

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Ronald – together with his brother, David – established Ungar Brothers nearly 30 years ago. After 30 years, he still loves his job and shares the vision and dedication of everyone at the company. What he enjoys most about the jewellery industry is having a diverse group of valued customers who are both down-toearth and approachable. Good service and a large range of superior quality stock, is what Ronald believes keeps Ungar Brothers at the top of the game.

What have been the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

That no matter how bleak the outlook, things will eventually change for the better – so t’s essential that you be ready for that when it arrives.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

A business resurgence. I’m ready for it!

Ungar Brothers CC The Ungar family has been at the forefront of the South African jewellery industry since the 1960s. Ungar Brothers local ranges of jewellery is always fully stocked with a vast range of 9ct gold earrings, pendants, religious jewellery, lockets, charms, CZ tennis bracelets, rings, 9ct body jewellery and 18ct tennis bracelet mounts. Its local ranges of jewellery are continually enhanced with specialised imported items.

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ANDREAS SALVER ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLLERS

suggested that I work for him after school as an apprentice jeweller until I figured out what I wanted to do,” recalls Salver.

Although he had not wanted to become a jeweller, when he realised that he could make exactly what his journeyman asked of him, he was thrilled. He worked as an apprentice for Mair for 18 months, after which he made jewellery for his mother.

From the age of five, Salver was brought up by his mother, a single parent who worked from home out of her garage. Throughout Salver’s schooling career, he would come home to see what she was making and all the tools she was using. When he wanted to give his teacher a gift at the end of the year, his mother suggested making her something. He duly made her a brass keyring with a copper cut-out of a child sitting in a chair with his hand up. “When I told her I’d made it myself, she cried. I’ll never forget that feeling.

“When I turned 11, my mom remarried Alan Mair, also a jeweller, who started his own company, Alan Mair Manufacturing Jewellers.

I started working there every school holiday.

Mair became a giant in the jewellery industry, employing about 240 staff in his heyday. Mair

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What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

This year inspired me to come up with a new creative design of which I’m very proud.

It’s much more than a piece of jewellery: it transcends this earth and gives one the ability to unlock their higher self; their higher potential.

This jewellery has a spiritual dimension to it.

It began during the lockdown, when I started seeing a metaphysical therapist by the name of Cameron Hogg. Over those five months, many people were awakened to something other than their norm. They weren’t allowed to go to church, so they looked within themselves for spiritual sustenance and many discovered new things. I believe yoga was increasing and Christianity was decreasing. I read about Masaru Emoto, a Japanese businessman and writer who works with water. He labels it with different words. These words change the crystal structure of the water. Words are

enormously powerful and our selection of them and the way we use them can influence the way we live. I looked even further and deeper, reading about the Anunnaki – a group of deities who feature in the mythological traditions of the ancient Sumerians, Akkadians, Assyrians and Babylonians. I learnt about the way shapes create energy, sacred geometry and the mathematics of the pyramids. I took something out of everything.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

Seeing how my new range, Awakening by Andreas Salver, will be received.

Andreas Salver Manufacturing Jewellers Salver started his own business, Andreas Salver Manufacturing Jewellers, in 1992 at the back of Richard Francis’s shop as a one-man band. He strives for perfection in all his designs. “The biggest compliment I ever received was when another respected jeweller asked me to make a piece for his wife,” he says. Salver’s business philosophy is to be a man of his word who never lets people down or seeks to make money by cheating others.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW|SAJN

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IAN LIPMAN LIPMAN & SON

The Lipman family has been a part of the jewellery industry in SA since 1948, when Ian’s father, Derek, started manufacturing diamond jewellery in Cape Town. Today, Ian continues serving the industry. He has a passion for the industry and his vision is to offer an insight into how technology could enhance jewellers’ productivity and expertise, while also providing training and technical support.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

COVID-19 has opened up huge cracks in the social fabric of humanity – it’s bringing out the best and the worst of mankind.

My fervent wish is that we can use this opportunity to start focusing on healing the social ills that exist. In May this year, when we re-opened our workshop and operated at 50% capacity, my primary focus, as a business-owner, was to make sure my staff understood the potential economic upheaval the lockdown was causing to the industry and assure them that their well-being was my top priority. Fortunately, we were soon able to come back up to full capacity and are currently seeing a growth in green-shoot start-ups entering the industry, primarily in the e-commerce space.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

I believe a completely new approach to rebuilding our crippled industry is needed.

It’s blatantly obvious that the government’s investment in the jewellery industry, pumping money into tertiary education institutions, has

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

failed – the return on this investment has been close to zero. I recently learnt of a clothing industry initiative in Cape Town, backed by a group of retail clothing companies and manufacturers in the local clothing industry, together with government funding. This resulted in the opening of a manufacturing cluster where technically experienced individuals could offer their services as small entrepreneurs, collectively manufacturing garments for sale to the local market. The retailers underwrite to purchase from the cluster, so the income’s guaranteed. The funding provides the working capital and initial capital investment. Linked to this cluster is a well-structured internship programme for young entrants to step into a cash-generating entity, thereby expanding the entrepreneurial base. This is a formula we could emulate in the jewellery industry and use to start afresh and inject new life into our ailing economy.

I therefore appeal to the South African jewellery industry to consider this seed of an idea and offer suggestions. Let’s start an initiative that can get us on a growth trajectory.

May 2021 be a year of goodwill, good health and prosperity.

Lipman & Son Lipman & Son is a full-line supplier of machinery, tools, equipment and consumables to the jewellery manufacturing industry. Lipman continues his father’s tradition of offering exceptional service and dedication, providing a full range of technical support to the industry. The company is the only one in the country with the capability to provide full sales and service back-up to jewellery manufacturers throughout southern Africa, with customers in SA, Tanzania, Mauritius, the Seychelles, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana and Swaziland. Its offices are situated in the heart of Cape Town, with warehouse and sales facilities in Parktown, Johannesburg.

In 2013, Lipman & Son set up a fully functional mini-casting workshop in Cape Town showcasing the latest technology in a modern jewellery manufacturing setting. “We’ve built a reputation for being the go-to place for advice on all aspects of jewellery-making, from choosing the right tools and equipment to diagnosing casting and electroplating problems and everything in between,” says Lipman.

LABI KAPO AKAPO JEWELS

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Kapo is a master goldsmith (diamond-mounter) who learnt his craft in London – one of the first Africans to work in the UK jewellery industry.

With 44 years’ experience in the jewellery industry at a bespoke level of manufacturing and clientele, he is an entrepreneur and CEO who has headed Akapo Jewels in SA for 18 years. Kapo is a specialist in platinum techniques and antique jewellery, as well as rare artifacts.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

Personally, to be patient, adaptable and resilient. In business, to advertise on a much bigger scale via the Internet and webinars.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

The end of the COVID-19 pandemic and the start of new business relationships internationally, thanks to the contacts we made through webinars during this year’s lockdown.

Akapo Jewels Akapo Jewels has been an accredited training and service provider for 10 years, as well as an ISO 9001-certified company that offers specialised training to youth in Africa and internationally. It is a SETAaccredited institution with a reputation for a high quality of service and product delivery to a variety of clients worldwide.

It prides itself on integrity, reliability and passion in everything it does. The company was registered in 2003 in SA and has been systematically training and developing young, up-and-coming entrepreneurs in the jewellery industry since then.

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SAJN |2020: THE YEAR IN REVIEW Pretoria. Louw has always been more interested in the lifetime value of his clients (and their families and friends) rather than in the value of individual sales and believes in attention to detail, exceptional service and offering sound advice when customers purchase diamonds and jewellery.

KARL LOUW BRESCO DIAMONDS

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Louw has been in the jewellery industry for more than 17 years. His career began in the corporate space of strategic development.

However, in 2003 – together with Veronica van der Walt – he acquired Bresco Diamonds, a custom jewellery manufacturing studio in

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

Don’t panic. When your income comes to a grinding halt, but your bills don’t, avoid going into an absolute frenzy, because it doesn’t help: deal with it rationally, methodically and realistically. Another big lesson was the importance of tenacity – keeping on keeping on. As someone wise once observed: “If you’re going through hell, just keep going.”

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

There is life after COVID-19. The jewellery trade, to us, has everything: people! Drama!

Romance! Precious stones! Excitement! “What more could you ask for?” we thought. We never had a marketing budget, hoping our work

DEBBIE MOUTON DEBBIE MOUTON JEWELLERS Mouton’s background in jewellery retail started when she became the General Manager of Bosman Jewellers in 1997 and went on to purchase the business from the previous owner in 2002.

Her responsibilities as General Manager provided her with experience of the retail trade and enabled her to fully understand and satisfy customer requirements. In 2011, Mouton opened two stores in the new Mall of the North, one a Debbie Mouton jewellery outlet and the other a Lu Bag luggage outlet. As a result of these stores, she closed the ones at the Standard Bank Square complex.

In 2012, she opened a jewellery and luggage store at Savannah Mall in Polokwane.

Then, already the proud owner of four retail outlets, she opened a further two in Mokopane in 2018. Today Mouton owns seven stores, with jewellery remaining her core business.

She is also a long-standing member of the Chevron Jewellers Group of SA (the largest body of independent retail jewellers in the country) and has served as its Chairperson for the past five years.

What are the most important life and business lessons you have learnt this year?

That relentless pushing towards your goals

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Bresco Diamonds Bresco Diamonds was started by Van der Walt’s parents as diamond merchants in Pretoria in 1967, but soon diversified into custom manufacturing and retail jewellery. She grew up in the business, learning the essentials from her parents.

When she and Louw acquired the business in 2003, they were quick to embrace the emerging black empowerment aspirations in the country at that stage: 26% of the business was sold to black employees in 2005, setting the stage for deep involvement of employees in all aspects of the business. Bresco Diamonds’ vision is to provide clients with products and services of international standard.

would speak for itself. This needs to change.

We’re looking forward to dusting off those age-old “Seven Ps” marketing principles (product, price, promotion, place, packaging, positioning and people), because luxury is timeless and enduring. We also want to be.

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will ultimately pay off, despite hardship, the economic downturn and COVID-19. Suppliers to retailers are under pressure to meet their targets, so a symbiotic partnership should be formed to create a win-win relationship.

Suppliers today need to work much more closely with retailers towards mutual success.

However, while ambition and perseverance are important, each business-owner must find a balance between work and pleasure.

Enough time should be set aside for regular breaks from work.

Finally, one of the most critical factors of ensuring longevity in any business is the strength of the relationships between spouse, friends, family, suppliers, landlords, financial institutions and clients.

What are you looking forward to in 2021?

A prosperous year with fewer disruptions and more sales. A year of growth, health and gratitude.

Debbie Mouton Jewellers Debbie Mouton Jewellers is a subsidiary of Gold City Jewellers, of which Mouton is the sole owner. She has a fully equipped manufacturing workshop at her headquarters, where a team of goldsmiths and diamond-setters create all her designs, from fine jewellery to engagement rings. Her full service offering includes the selling of well-known brands, fine jewellery and watches, repairs to jewellery and watches, battery exchanging, cleaning of jewellery, valuations and the designing and manufacturing of fine jewellery. Debbie Mouton Jewellers offers clients the designing and manufacturing option of custom-made items.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

SAJN |JEWELLERY DESIGN

Meet jewellery designer Venita Botes SAJN talks to Venita Botes, owner of Piet My Vrou Jewellery in Tzaneen, Limpopo Province. Every piece of her jewellery is passionately handcrafted according to the client’s desire.

Tell us about yourself and Piet My Vrou Jewellery.

I was born and raised in Tzaneen and matriculated at Hoërskool Ben Vorster in 2002. I then worked as an apprentice at a local jeweller in Tzaneen for a couple of years.

From 2007-2009, I studied for my Diploma in Jewellery Design and Manufacturing at Pretoria Technikon. I moved to Polokwane in 2010, where I began working at Michelangelo Jewellers. I started my own business, Venita’s Jewellery, in 2012. In 2015, one of the former owners of Michelangelo Jewellers approached me to partner with her in starting Piet My Vrou Jewellery in Polokwane. In 2017, after a sudden

tragedy in my family, my husband and I decided to move to Tzaneen and open a second Piet My Vrou Jewellery outlet. In 2019, my business partner and I went our separate ways. We closed the shop in Polokwane, but the second one in Tzaneen is thriving. I’m happily married to Conrad (36) and we have two gorgeous children, six-year-old Clarese and three-yearold Handré.

I try to get a feeling for each client’s personality and why they’ve chosen that specific jewellery design. I also try to put a touch of myself into every design.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

JEWELLERY DESIGN|SAJN What do you love about jewellery?

The fact that it lends an exquisite personal touch to any outfit and can convey a personal message, with personal meaning, to a loved one or a friend.

Have you always been so creative?

Yes. I loved to draw and paint as a young girl.

I also taught pre-primary school children to make jewellery out of beads.

What inspires your jewellery designs?

Mostly people and nature. I try to get a feeling for each client’s personality and why they’ve chosen that specific jewellery design. I also try to put a touch of myself into every design.

What do you enjoy about working with new clients on custom pieces?

Every client has their own challenges. I love to see a satisfied customer, knowing I made them smile and that they’re wearing a piece of me.

Do you design jewellery with yourself in mind?

If I design a personal range, then I have myself in mind, but if I’m designing for a client, I do so according to his or her needs. Every piece I design, whether for myself or a client, has a piece of my heart in it.

What do you enjoy most about your work?

The fact that no two days are alike. I’m creatively challenged every day.

Which of your designs is your favourite piece and what made it so special?

I don’t have a favourite piece – each one is special to me. I love seeing how a piece develops, from the start of the design through the manufacturing process into the final product, and knowing I made it with my two hands. The most rewarding moment is seeing the satisfaction on a client’s face.

Who or what couldn’t you live without?

I don’t want to live without my family and friends, but life has taught me that that can’t always be the case, so we need to treasure every moment with our loved ones and make sure God is at the centre of our lives. Everything is possible and better with Him. What does the future hold for Piet My Vrou Jewellery?

We’re in the process of upgrading our website and growing our team to ensure customer satisfaction in all aspects of their dealings with us.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

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Specialising in GIA certified excellent cut diamonds & engagement jewellery

TEL: 0720156256 • EMAIL: yordiamond@gmail.com ADDRESS: Suite 309, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg, South Africa

COINS|SAJN

From coins to conservation THE SA MINT HAS A LONG TRADITION OF minting coins that pay homage to SA’s rich biodiversity and revered wildlife, which have great significance for its international identity and ecological heritage. In continuing its timehonoured legacy, the SA Mint launched the bi-annual Big Five coin programme last year featuring wildlife synonymous with southern Africa – the elephant, lion, rhinoceros, leopard and buffalo.

The exquisite range sees each of these majestic creatures featured on a variety of precious metal. The leopard (Panthera pardus) is the most difficult of the Big Five to spot in the African bush. Besides being shy, secretive and mainly nocturnal, leopards have distinctive dark spots (called rosettes) which create a pattern against their otherwise light fur, making them extremely difficult to trace and locate in the savannas.

The coin range consists of a 24ct 1 oz prof gold coin, a 1 oz proof platinum coin, a brilliant uncirculated fine silver coin and a proof quality silver double capsule set. The range also includes two combination sets: the 1 oz Big Five leopard and 1 oz Krugerrand privy marked fine silver proof coin set and the 1 oz Big Five leopard and 1 oz Krugerrand privy marked gold proof coin set.

The Big Five leopard coin range’s distinctive design gives an impressively detailed depiction of the elusive

The reverse of the coin features two halves of the face of a leopard. When two coins are placed next to each other, a complete image of the face is seen.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, has announced the launch of the penultimate coin in the Big Five series, featuring the leopard. wild cat. The reverse of the coin features two halves of the face of a leopard. When two coins are placed next to each other, a complete image of the face is seen. When multiple coins are placed next to each other, a leap of leopards is formed. The obverse of the coins feature a breathtaking side-view of the leopard, with its characteristic spots indented in the metal. The face fills up much of the surface area of the coin and the words “South Africa”, “Big 5 2020” appear below the image, with the national coat-of-arms in the centre signifying its legal tender status.

When it first launched the coin programme in 2019, the SA Mint made a commitment to support conservation efforts directed at protecting the Big Five. To this end, a partnership with the Wildlife Conservation Trust (WCT) was announced at the beginning of 2020.

The WCT is an organisation whose task it is to identify viable conservation initiatives and match them with people or organisations who have the capacity and/or funds to fulfil them.

Speaking at the launch, SA Mint MD Honey Mamabolo said: “Just as the SARB is the guarantor of the value in the banknotes and coins it issues, it’s the duty of all South Africans to safeguard the value of our ecological heritage.

“Through this partnership, we support the WCT’s work in protecting the rhino and big cat species like the leopard and cheetah. The Big Five can strike at will in their natural habitat, but their pace and power have posed little danger to human greed and activity,” she added.

“We hope this partnership will contribute to creating a positive future for endangered animals. By collaborating with the WCT, we’re investing in SA’s wildlife and taking meaningful action towards restoring the country’s position as the home of the Big Five.”

The International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List of Threatened Species, widely recognised as the most comprehensive and authoritative benchmark for evaluating the conservation status of plant and animal species, ranks the leopard as a “vulnerable species” with a high risk of becoming extinct in the wild.

WCT founder and trustee, Lente Roode, says: “Our strategy is to build alliances that enable us to leverage resources and achieve greater impact. Collaboration with institutions like the SA Mint are key to our work. For one thing, they amplify our visibility through their products, which have a global audience. The Big Five’s influence looms large on our tourism prospects. The more people we can attract, the better the resources for conservation.

“We’re living in unprecedented times due to the outbreak of COVID-19 and, at the same time, living through the most important period for conservation. The future of many of the species we’re hoping to protect lies firmly in the conservation actions we take today. The SA Mint’s decision to partner with us in our ambition to advance conservation is timely and welcome.”

The SA Mint is the continent’s leading manufacturer of legal coin tender, as well as commemorative and rare collectible coins. With over 100 years’ experience in supplying symbols of value to the African and global markets, we pride ourselves on delivering products that represent our commitment to uniquely African design and supreme craftsmanship. We collaborate closely with our customers to develop distinct and durable monetary products that capture and preserve the heritage and pride of a nation. The SA Mint is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank (SARB), established in accordance with the SARB Act.

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SAJN |ADVERTORIAL

HPHT and CVD Laboratory-grown Diamonds. What’s the difference?

By Kaylan Khourie, FGA Gem-quality laboratory-grown diamonds have become fairly popular as an option for jewellery in the past few years and have recently become more available in South Africa. This is probably due to the lower prices and wider availability – due to large factories1 constantly growing many diamonds in all shapes, sizes and colours2 – compared to natural diamonds. Originally the HPHT growth method was the preferred choice for manufacturers but CVD-grown diamonds seem to be more common due to the faster growth rate – reportedly greater than 50μm/hour3, better clarity outcome and the ability to grow many diamonds in one growth chamber.

When purchasing a laboratory-grown diamond, is it important for you to know the growth method?

4 Both HPHT and CVD-grown diamonds have the same physical and optical properties and are both still composed of carbon – just as natural diamonds are. Therefore, in the jewellery trade there is no reason that a HPHT-grown diamond should be favoured over a CVD-grown diamond, or vice-versa.

However, distinction between natural and laboratory-grown diamond is essential to maintaining consumer confidence across all markets. Here is some brief interesting information regarding the two different growth methods: HPHT “HPHT” stands for “High Pressure High Temperature” and represents the environment used to grow the diamond.

A diamond (either natural or laboratory-grown) seed plate is used as a starting point and is placed inside a chamber containing pure carbon powder that gets dissolved in a molten metal flux mixture. A catalyst – usually either nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co) or iron (Fe) – is incorporated into this flux mixture to speed up the growth process. The chamber is then subjected to extreme temperature and pressure (up to 1700°C and 6.5 GPa). As the mixture cools down, the carbon crystallises onto a seed plate within the chamber and the diamond begins to grow.

Fig 1: Blue HPHT rough crystal from Algordanza. Image courtesy of B. Deljanin and D. Simic5

CVD “CVD” stands for “Chemical Vapour Deposition” and describes the process used to grow the diamond.

As with the HPHT method, diamond seed plates are used as a starting point – usually numerous seed plates are used at once. They are placed on top of a platinum base, inside a vacuum chamber. A carbon and hydrogen gas (usually methane) is inserted into the chamber and then, at a low pressure and high temperature, irradiated by microwaves that then form a plasma cloud on top of the seed plates. Carbon is separated from the gas and deposited onto the seed plates and the diamonds begin to grow.

Fig 2: CVD rough crystal with carbonaceous inclusions.

Image courtesy of Taijin Lu

References De Marco, A. 2020. De Beers’ Lightbox Opens $94 Million Lab-Grown Diamond Facility, Partners With Blue Nile: https://bit.ly/2UH63fN 1

Deljanin, B., Alessandri, M., Peretti, A., Åström, M. 2015. NDT breaking the 10 carat barrier: World record faceted and gem-quality synthetic diamonds investigated. Contributions to Gemology No. 15.

2

Hemley, R, J., Mao, H, Yan, C. 2007. Colorless Single-crystal CVD Diamond at Rapid Growth Rate. US Patent 20070196263A1: Washington.

3

4

Khourie, K. 2018. What are Synthetic Diamonds?. December Ed. of SA Jewellery News, pp. 18-19.

5

Authors of the book: Laboratory-grown Diamonds (2020). https://bit.ly/38WFtYl

Have your laboratory-grown diamonds graded and certified at EGL South Africa on our dedicated laboratory-grown diamond reports!

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This article has been written independently and, unless otherwise stated, the information belongs to Kaylan Khourie, FGA and is subject to copyright. Neither EGL South Africa nor Kaylan Khourie endorses or supports any dealer, manufacturer or supplier of diamonds, gemstones or jewellery.

WWW.EGL.CO.ZA

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

SAJN |WATCHES

With its XXL moon, the Perpetual Moon is ruled by Selene, the Greek goddess of this celestial body.

Arnold & Son presents a limited edition of 28 pieces featuring this distinctive complication, adorned with an extraordinary material rarely seen in watchmaking.

The shifting moon WITH A DIAL MADE FROM MEXICAN obsidian, this timepiece appears to be bathed in bronze moonlight. The stone is reflected in the large rhodium-plated moon and the perfectly polished hour-markers. The result is an interplay of reflections, vibrations and warmth that echo the light of earth’s satellite.

Showcasing one of the largest moons to be found in the watchmaking sphere, Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon Obsidian stands out for the size of its complication and the aesthetic approach employed by the resolutely British Swiss brand. Housed in a 42 mm red gold case is its hand-wound calibre A&S1512, offering a precision double moon phase display.

On the movement side, a hand display allows for extremely fine adjustments. On the dial side, a large moon disc occupies almost the entire aperture, presented in a vast window with a round cut-out that allows the changing faces of the moon to be admired. The realistic depiction is crossed by shadows and areas of relief to enhance presence.

In the exterior details, Arnold & Son has taken this approach even further. The moon is only visible because it reflects the light from the sun. In the same way, the light brings the Perpetual Moon Obsidian to life with its shimmering reflections.

From Mexico, the manufacture sourced one of the oldest and most intriguing stones: golden obsidian. This volcanic stone has been mined in Central America since time immemorial and was used in particular in the reli-

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gious ceremonies of pre-Columbian civilisations. Obsidian has a very high silica content, making it a hard and shiny material. Golden obsidian owes its shimmer to the semi-precious stone’s chemical composition and its specific crystallisation.

Its bronze hue extends far beneath the surface, right into the heart of the material. Despite the minute amount used for the dial, it still produces a glistening effect, reflected in turn in the hands and hour-markers.

Arnold & Son selected cool shades to contrast with the stone. The moon and hands are rhodium-plated and the hour-markers are made

from diamond-polished white gold. Together, these choices enhance the reflections of the golden obsidian and the red gold of the case. To complete this contrasting interplay of warm and cool tones, the brand chose a blue alligator-leather strap with visible silvercoloured top-stitching.

Like all the movements used by Arnold & Son, the calibre A&S1512 was entirely developed, produced, decorated, assembled, adjusted and cased up in the brand’s manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This calibre is based on a large barrel with an oscillation frequency of 3 Hz, giving a 90-hour power reserve. Last, but not least, the moon phase display of this movement will remain accurate for 122 years before deviating from the actual lunar cycle by one day.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

HAND MEDAL PROJECT|SAJN

Jewellers around the world unite to honour health workers THE DESIGN OF THE MEDAL – A HAND – IS drawn from a historical Argentinian ex-voto.

Authorship is secondary, as the medals are not about the maker, but about the recipient.

To underscore the unity of this collaborative effort, participants copy a template of the hand, which is meant to be simple enough for all skill levels and easily replicated into whatever metal is available. This singular hand design creates a collective voice, reinforcing the shared gratitude which is the project’s mission.

“Our current battle with the Coronavirus is fought with an enemy invisible to the naked eye, its spectre made all the more ominous by its intangibility – a danger you can’t see,” explain the organisers. “By contrast, metal – especially jewellery – is known by its weight and shape against the body. When formed into a medal, it provides a physical testimony for both the unseen virus and invisible bravery of those who’ve fought it. Hands themselves have been powerfully present in this battle.

They’re symbols not only of how our bodies have become weapons to be washed, sanitised and gloved, but also of their innate power to heal and connect. For around 3 000 jewellers who join the project, of course, they’re the language of skill and expression embodied.”

The Hand Medal Project was conceived by friends and artists Iris Eichenberg and Jimena Ríos. Its aim is straightforward: for artists, jewellers, students and professionals to craft medals that will honour the service and sacrifice of health workers.

Infused with the gratitude of the ex-voto and the tribute of a medal, these have been made and collected since April 2020.

To implement the project, Eichenberg and Ríos have organised a network of what they call “hand-keepers”, people who will collect the medals from individuals across 66 participating countries, with the list continually growing. The medals will then be passed on to “hand-givers”, who will present them to their local medical communities. Each medal will be registered with a number stamped on the back, allowing recipients to look up the maker of their medal on the project’s website.

To date, 309 hospitals have received medals which “hand-givers” presented to healthcare workers. In SA, the Charlotte Maxeke Johannesburg Academic Hospital, the medical ward of Midstream in Pretoria, MediClinic Roodepoort, the Mayo Clinic, the Netcare Rehabilitation Hospital in Auckland Park, Johan-

nesburg, the TICU Unitas Netcare Hospital in Pretoria and the Booth Memorial Hospital in Cape Town have received medals.

During May, almost 100 jewellers from around the world were registered per day to be a part of the project.

There is no doubt of the incalculable loss and collective fear COVID-19 has caused. But remarkable acts of care have been on the front lines as well, a reminder of the selfless spirit that can only be described as faith. Those who make medals to honour this heroism will identify themselves in many ways – as jewellers, artists, makers and doers – but they will all fall under the umbrella of humanity first. This project, at this moment, centres not on what can be created, but on what can be done with the act of creation in service to others. It is within the acts of the hand – the offer and the receipt – that the Hand Medal Project takes place.

Visit: https://handmedalproject.com/index.html#registration to join the Hand Medal Project. Hand medals can be made in any metal you have. Make as many as you can. Alternatively, volunteer to be a hand-keeper or a hand-giver. Every hand counts.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

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SAJN |LITTLE GEMS IN EASTERN CULTURES SUCH AS CHINA, RED is the colour of good luck. If red is your favourite colour, selecting a gemstone for a piece of jewellery offers many options. Red gemstones draw attention to the wearer. Of course, rubies range from blood red to pinks, but not everyone can afford them. However, there are a number of more affordable options.

Some red spinels are among the most historic gemstones – like the Black Prince’s Ruby.

It is a large, irregular cabochon stone weighing 1 170ct, set above the Cullinan II at the front of King George V of England’s Imperial State Crown, which is among the oldest of the British Crown Jewels. It dates back to 1367, when it was given to Edward of Woodstock – the “Black Prince” – and is today valued at £720 885. But it is not a ruby at all.

Until 1783, all red gemstones were referred to as rubies or “balas rubies”, derived from Balascia, the ancient name for a region in central Asia. It was only then that red spinels were differentiated from rubies and it is believed that this particular stone might have originated from the historic ruby mines in present-day Tajikistan. The stone was thought to have been in the possession of a Moorish prince of Granada.

A revolt was successfully countered, with the assistance of the “Black Prince”, who demanded the “ruby” in exchange for his services. It is assumed he took it back to England.

But I have digressed. Spinels are found in the gemstone-bearing gravel of Sri Lanka and

The colours of red in a province of modern-day Afghanistan. They are common in the uppermost earth’s mantle and have a vitreous to dull lustre. Spinels are stones of various colours, although red ones are the most common.

Carnelial (sometimes known as “carnelian”) is the most popular stone in the red spinel range. Carnelian and said are varieties of chalcedony, the latter slightly different and somewhat harder and darker – a semi-precious stone of a uniform red-brown. Carnelian is a brownish-red mineral; both are coloured by impurities of iron oxide. Carnelian was recovered in Crete

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Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

LITTLE GEMS|SAJN are reportedly enhanced, making its existence somewhat controversial.

Zircons are diamond-like stones which are also found in various colours, including red.

These varietals are known as hyacinths. There are real red diamonds, but these are extremely rare precious stones and very expensive. The colours of diamonds, including the red variety, are due to various impurities in the surrounding rocks. from the Bronze Age and was mainly used in Nature has created tourmaline in many the decorative arts. Said was used in Rocolours. A particularly beautiful gemman times to make engraved signet stone is red rubelite tourmaline, rings for imprinting a seal with wax, which was known to the ancients including Assyrian cylinder seals, of the Mediterranean area. It reand was also used to engrave Egypquires two special ingredients to tian and Phoenician scarabs and achieve its colour, which can alter early Greek and Etruscan gems. in different light conditions, whethMy own preference for a red-tinted, er daylight or artificial light. Usually it semi-precious stone is garnet, which is is a bold ruby-red, its name derived from best known for its deep red, almost burgunthe Latin “rubelius”, which means “reddy shade. Most of my garnet jewellery is in dish”, but it can vary from pink to shocking this darker hue. The name comes from the pink and red. However, only a few of these old French “grenat” and the stone is stones can be called rubelite or red often mistaken for a ruby, since it tourmalines. They were originally also occurs in deep red and all the brought into Europe by Dutch colours of the rainbow. Garnets traders and today they are found take their colour from the red rocks on many continents, but fine crysin the areas in which they are tal specimens are rare and can found. They are formed under be quite expensive. Their popuextremely high temperatures larity in modern times began in Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons and pressure. The Mozambique 1876, when a gemmologist and variety is known for its wonderful red colours jeweller sold tourmaline stones to Tiffany & Co which do not become apparent until the rough in New York. has been cut and polished, but a flawless, large, clear garnet is difficult to find. It is one of the few stones which remain untreated. Evidence of its durability is confirmed by the fact that a garnet necklace was found in a young man’s grave dating back to 3000 BC. A red beryl is a species of very rare red gemstone. Naturally colourless, it is tinted by the presence of other minerals. Pezzottaites are similar to red beryls, but contain lithium.

They have only recently been discovered in Madagascar and Afghanistan, where they come in raspberry red and orange shades. Also ALICE WEIL extremely rare are specimens of red fire opal, 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020 most of which emanate from Mexico. Recently discovered is andesine, of which the red rocks

Forever and always, our “Little Gem”

Evidence of garnets’ durability is confirmed by the fact that a necklace of these stones was found in a young man’s grave dating back to 3000 BC. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – DECEMBER 2020 / JANUARY 2021

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Happy Holidays and a Golden New Year!

The MetCon Team