SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • February 2021

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Extensive range of watch batteries

• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

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Showcasing the latest in Local & International gift, fashion,décor & design trends

10 - 12 MARCH 2021 09:00 – 17:00 Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

SARCDA is a world-class retail, gift, toy, décor & design trade-show that attracts quality buyers from hotel chains, curio & gift shops, interior decorators/designers, toy & baby stores, supermarkets, pharmacies, fashion accessory & apparel buyers, florist & garden centres & retail stores.

Proudly positioned as the largest and only trade exhibition of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, SARCDA shows are THE SHOWS not to be missed.

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Supplier of loose moissanite to the trade Best quality & prices From 1mm stones up in different shapes and sizes Manufactures of moissanite and diamond jewellery Specialising in engagement rings Eternity bands from 1mm up Moissanite, diamonds or coloured stones Custom designs also available

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SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Sales Director: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lamees Mahomed Cell: 084-590-5123 E-mail: lamees@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lori Zavattoni Cell: 083-229-7873 E-mail: lori@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Gail Keogh Cell: 082-929-4935 E-mail: gail@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ruwayda Mahomed Cell: 072-383-3203 E-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

12. NEWS • JCSA’s 2020 annual report now available • EGL SA directors announce acquisition of North Side • TFG breaks new ground with launch of pure play brand Galaxy & Co • CoNNect Agency announces its digital Paris Fashion Week • De Beers planning return of Botswana sights • Local jewellery brand aims to grow SA’s economy • CPM co-sponsors University of Stellenbosch prizes

16. CHALLENGES FACED

BY THE JEWELLERY AND INSURANCE INDUSTRIES In an attempt to improve the co-operation between retail jewellers and insurers, Chairman of the Western Cape Branch of the Jewellery Council of SA, Dr Petré Prins highlights current threats to the jewellery industry

33. DIAMONDS IN DEMAND AMONG MILLENNIALS, GEN Z Diamond jewellery is the most desired tangible luxury product among consumers under the age of 40, second only to vacations, according to a survey by the Natural Diamond Council (NDC)

6

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za

www.ddcsa.co.za

37. “MARCH IS ME” MONTH

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The Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) has announced its 2021 “March is Me” Month campaign. Although Women’s Day in SA falls on 9 August, the campaign is aligned with International Women’s Day, which is 8 March

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38. FROM SIDE-HUSTLE TO MAIN HUSTLE Sales and marketing strategist Jacqueline Raw shares seven tips to help entrepreneurs turn their side-hustles into a full-time success

40. GIVE HER A CROWN Renowned local jewellery designer and founder of Impilo Collection, Angela Yeung, was one of 16 artists who lent their voices and skills to create a bespoke crown which was showcased during end of last year’s 16 Days of Activism

34. HEAD, HEART AND HANDS

Extensive range of watch batteries

• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

On the cover AA Watch Wholesalers first opened its doors for business 27 years ago in 1993. The

Natasha Collins, founder of Natasha-G Jewellery, is a contemporary jewellery designer based in Cape Town with her sights set on the globe. Her visions are bold, but enigmatic; sometimes powerful, sometimes playful, always elegant – and within these dualities, she finds a balance which is uniquely her own

company is run by dynamic husband-andwife team, Adam and Pratima Fulat. AA Watch is the national distributor of Energizer watch batteries in SA, a brand which has been at the forefront of the battery industry since inventing the world’s first consumer battery in 1896. In addition, AA Watch is also a distributor for Rhythm Clocks, one of the largest clock companies in the world, and Alfa all-leather watch straps. Contact AA Watch on tel: (012) 342-8978/9 or

42. CELEBRATING LOVE

e-mail: aaww@lantic.net.

It is estimated that one billion Valentine’s Day cards are distributed every year; it is the largest seasonal card-sending occasion besides Christmas The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

7

Located in the heart of Sandton inside The Leonardo, AURUM, translated to Gold, exists as a timeless, unique culinary experience beyond that of simple dining.

VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR CONTACT US VIA WHATSAPP TO BOOK (076 471 1489)

ED’S NOTE | SAJN

Editor’s

note

didn’t, can be difficult.

Fortunately, I am blessed to have extremely positive people and influences among my family, friends and colleagues who keep me optimistic and productive. And for better or worse, our attitude is everything. By being a happy person, despite these uncertain times, we can transform ourselves, our lives and – crucially, especially during lockdown or isolation – the lives of those around us.

Author Charles R Swindoll once famously stated: “I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.” That 90% is our attitude.

Currently, life is filled with uncertainty as many things remain beyond our control. What

WELCOME TO THE FIRST ISSUE OF SAJN IN 2021.

My 2021 did not start quite as ideally as I had hoped. Unfortunately, COVID-19 did not magically disappear when the clock struck midnight on New Year’s Eve. Eskom decided to implement stage 2 load-shedding just days after a level 3 lockdown had been announced and my son’s first day of Grade 1, which he was extremely excited about, was spent at home with me as his teacher, our living room as his classroom and his younger sister and baby brother as his classmates. To add to that, we were on alert here in Louis Trichardt as tropical storm Eloise brought heavy downpours. Staying positive when the new year which was supposed to solve everything

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is in our control, though, is how we manage ourselves and our mindsets. Our emotional states and attitudes are not unlike a virus – they are contagious and can spread to those around us. Our children, spouses, friends, family and colleagues need us to stay positive. That is not to say we have to have a permanently happy-go-lucky attitude, but we do have to remember that our loved ones are affected by the attitude that we put out, so let us try to make it a good one this year.

Stay safe and positive!

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FROM THE CEO OF THE JCSA | SAJN

Greetings from the Jewellery Council of SA Dear jewellery industry I wish you a prosperous year of rebuilding and growth in 2021! With 2020 finally behind us, we are confident that the new year will bring some new opportunities. COVID-19 is still very much with us and therefore we encourage you all to keep safe.

Although it has been a slow start to the year, many of us have kicked off with a sense of excitement. Now, more than ever, creative new ideas and strategies will raise the bar in our industry, despite the challenges we face.

The nature of business has changed across the board and agility is the key to successfully taking our industry into the Fourth Industrial Revolution – and beyond.

Last year, the Jewellery Council launched an extensive search for inspired new ideas and opportunities for members. We are very excited to report that we have two new concepts, which we have proposed to members.

The first is “Jewellex Africa 365” – an exclusive e-commerce platform for the trade.

Jewellex Africa 365 will serve wholesalers/ suppliers and manufacturers, who will be able to sell their products and services 365 days a year, 24 hours a day.

Space will be rented out on a three-month basis and members may discontinue or extend participation at their discretion, following the end of that period. This platform will replace Jewellex Africa as a trade show in the short term, but may also continue to serve as an additional income stream in the long term.

As an add-on to this concept, we are considering extending the offering, depending on the amount of interest it generates, to give jewellers and suppliers an ongoing platform to

sell directly to the consumer. The trade platform will be separated from the retail platform, so as not to permit consumers to register on the trade platform.

The second exciting concept born from our extensive think-tank is the Jewellery and Watch Fair. This retail show will provide a safe environment for companies selling directly to the consumer.

Participating companies will exhibit at an upmarket, COVID-19 regulation-compliant venue in Johannesburg for two to three days, selling directly to the public. This is not an online show. All the necessary safety and hygiene precautions will be adhered to.

Members have been invited to provide their input via a questionnaire in order to gauge interest. From that, we will be able to make some important decisions for the coming year.

I invite you to interact with me by e-mailing me on: lornal@jewellery.org.za.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

SAJN | NEWS

JCSA’S 2020 ANNUAL REPORT NOW AVAILABLE The Jewellery Council of South Africa’s annual report for the fiscal year 2020 is now available. Members who did not receive a link to access the report or who have queries re-

lating to it can contact the council at e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za or on (011) 484-5528.

The 2020 annual report was published by Isikhova Media, which also publishes the JCSA’s

official industry publication SA Jewellery News and related jewellery trade brands Jewellery BizNews (JBN), Jewellery Connect Bi-Annual Directory, Jewellex Today! and African Odyssey.

CPM CO-SPONSORS UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH PRIZES Every year, local refinery Cape Precious Metals (CPM) sponsors metals for students at the University of Stellenbosch for their exhibitions or year-end award prizes.

Falling within the Visual Arts Department, the division of Creative Jewellery & Metal Design is focused on educating jewellery design as a critical discipline that allows students to reflect on their surroundings and translate their ideas into three-dimensional wearable artworks that communicate and stimulate thought.

At the end of last year, CPM was delighted

have employed their jewellery practice to push boundaries and communicate messages of identity, place, social standing, cultural practices and political viewpoints.

“Last year’s jewellery design students excelled against all odds and curated an exhibition that demonstrated their tenacity and perseverance,” says the refinery. “The exhibition title was well suited to the ‘in-between’ and uncertain circumstances the world is facing in the midst of COVID-19. Nonetheless, the students (even with limited access to studios as a

excellence in combining conceptual ideas with technical precision.

The winners were: Second year first place: Kim Jooste Second year second place: Anika Lotter Thrd year first place: Lee van der Merwe Third year second place: Tor Kaplan Fourth year first place: Jessa-Lynn Matthews Fourth year second place: Komien Smit Fourth year third place: Claire Dhooge Other sponsors included BJ Oberholzer, Jeweltec and Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies.

to gift these hard-working and talented young jewellers with four prizes of 50 g silver each for their In-Between exhibition, a display of undergraduate student work specialising in contemporary jewellery design.

The exhibition illustrated how jewellery design can function as a multi-faceted design tool through the various ways in which students

result of the pandemic and lockdown regulations) managed to put together an immaculate display of work that the university was exceptionally proud of.”

The exhibition showcased projects by all second-, third- and fourth-year students studying creative jewellery and metal design. In each year group, winners were rewarded for their

“We’re extremely grateful to our sponsors for their generous prizes,” say course leader Carine Terreblanche and lecturers Mariambibi Khan and Joani Groenewald. “We want to congratulate all our graduates of 2020 in creative jewellery and metal design. We believe you’ll share your talent and success with the industry in the near future.”

NEWS | SAJN

DE BEERS PLANNING RETURN OF BOTSWANA SIGHTS Holding sights at the usual location enables the faster delivery of goods to the market, Rowley explained. This is especially significant now that sales volumes are returning to normal levels, as sending rough to and from other countries can lead to delays, he added.

“The speed [at] which the product can move to market will become important going forward,” he said.

Botswana has re-opened international airports, aiming to re-ignite the economy while maintaining rules to avoid a widespread COVID-19 outbreak. The pandemic has ravaged two of the country’s most important industries: diamonds and tourism.

“Tell all the diamantaires out there, the sightholders, that they’re welcome to come to Botswana,” the nation’s President, Mok-

COVID-19 test result.

“We’ve had interest from sightholders who wanted to come into Botswana, now that things are starting to lift,” said Rowley. “[At] the first three sights [of 2021], we want to give them flexibility. I think we’ll see a gradual move to more people coming to Botswana itself and particularly sending technical teams.”

gweetsi Masisi, said in a recent online video session with De Beers. “They’ll be fantastically treated. The health protocols are in place, evacuation plans are solid and we’ve put in our bid to procure the vaccine for the virus once it becomes available.”

De Beers moved its sights from London to Gaborone in 2013 as part of a 10-year deal

with the government. The sales arrangement is currently under negotiation, but has reportedly been delayed due to COVID-19.

The resumption of the Gaborone events will have implications for the wider southern African diamond sector: visitors to the region also attend sales at Botswana’s Okavango Diamond Company, as well as tenders in SA, Rowley noted.

“There’s a purpose in coming to the region and it all seems to oscillate around the sight,” he commented. “I think that rhythm will return.” – Rapaport Image courtesy De Beers

De Beers intends reintroducing sights in Botswana in the first quarter of this year, enabling a more efficient sales process following months of viewings in scattered locations.

The miner plans to offer sightholders the flexibility to attend sales in Gaborone or continue inspecting goods in markets such as Dubai, Paul Rowley, Executive Vice-President of diamond trading at De Beers, told Rapaport News.

De Beers has not held sights in Botswana since February last year, as the country placed limitations on incoming travel, with the company instead bringing the rough to Antwerp, Dubai and Israel. However, Botswana subsequently relaxed some of those restrictions, allowing foreigners to enter without quarantine if they were asymptomatic and presented a negative

Sterling Silver Collection

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SAJN | NEWS

EGL SA DIRECTORS ANNOUNCE ACQUISITION OF NORTH SIDE The directors of one of South Africa’s leading gemmological laboratories, EGL SA, have announced the acquisition of North Side South Africa. EGL SA specialises in diamond, gemstone and jewellery identification, grading and certification. Earlier this year, the independent laboratory celebrated its 40th anniversary.

North Side, a supplier of polishing, cleaning and analysing tools and equipment for rough and polished diamonds for the jewellery, diamond and gemstone market in SA, was

started in 2017 by Bryan and Rochelle Lyle, the previous owners of Norsid Engineering. That company was founded in the late 1960s and is known for building the Van Zwan Bench. Bryan Lyle purchased Norsid in 1987 and, with his team, expanded the business significantly.

In 2012, the Lyles sold Norsid when they moved to Botswana. On returning to South Africa, they opened North Side Diamond Polishing Tools (which was abbreviated to North Side South Africa after the acquisition).

“We’re extremely excited about the acquisition of North Side and the additional services and products we’re now able to offer clients,” says Brenda Rosenthal, MD of EGL SA and majority shareholder of North Side. “We’re also delighted that Rochelle Lyle will still be consulting for the business.”

Dale Koster, who has been with EGL SA for 18 years and is currently its General Manager, will serve as the new Sales Manager of North Side.

LOCAL JEWELLERY BRAND AIMS TO GROW SA’S ECONOMY

CONNECT AGENCY ANNOUNCES ITS DIGITAL PARIS FASHION WEEK CoNNect Agency, SA Jewellery News and JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine’s UK (Londonbased) media alliance partner, has announced that its Paris Fashion Week will be hosted digitally from 27 February through to 5 March.

CoNNect Agency represents a myriad of jewellery designers from around the world, each with their own unique niche approach to design. The company shares a deep passion with Jewellery Biz-News, SAJN and JZA for our respective local and global jewellery brands and the extremely talented and innovative designers behind them.

The virtual showroom provides a superb platform to meet potential international buyers and “cross oceans” for a wider brand voice. Those who want to be part of CoNNect Agency designers can get in touch via DM on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ theagencyconnect/ or email info@theagencyconnect. com. SAJN and JZA will be sharing more exciting and innovative initiatives with CoNNect Agency in the coming months.

14

Keeva Trends, which recently opened an exclusive handmade jewellery store in Parkhurst, Johannesburg, aims to grow SA’s economy by locally manufacturing all its jewellery pieces.

Keeva Trends is a local South African handmade jewellery brand and is moulding and crafting sustainable solutions for its small business – one piece at a time. The brand believes entirely in more sustainable economic development and ethical work practices and considers this in every avenue of work it does. It equips women who are structurally vulnerable with the necessary skills so that they can live more empowered lives. All its products are locally manufactured under strict fair-trade practices that support social development. Furthermore, it only works with aligned suppliers and goes

to extra lengths to derive more eco-friendly solutions for packaging and presentation.

The brand offers an exclusive range of fine handmade earrings, bangles, necklaces and rings inspired by the beauty and simplicity of bold geometric and organic patterns. Having recently acquired the much-loved local fine jewellery brand Mary Jean, it now enables shoppers to browse through that range too.

Among its jewellery is a selection of locally produced leather mini-bags and artfully crafted items such as Mud Mask artisanal soaps and exquisitely scented bath bombs.

“When you buy our products, you’re supporting the growth of locally produced goods and, in the long term, the economy,” states the brand.

TFG BREAKS NEW GROUND WITH LAUNCH OF PURE PLAY BRAND GALAXY & CO Fashion and lifestyle retailer TFG broke new ground with the launch of its first pure play brand, Galaxy & Co. “Galaxy & Co is inspired by all things celestial: the galaxy, the zodiac and Africa,” says the well-known South African jeweller. Key collections feature suns, stars and crescent moon symbols, perfect for the stacking and layering trend of combining multiple jewellery pieces to express a customer’s unique style.

Galaxy & Co offers a collection of fashionable jewellery that is value-driven with no compromise on quality. The jewellery is made from sterling silver or brass, plated with 18ct gold or rhodium, and crafted to elevate an everyday look at price points ranging from R49-R999.

“Jewellery brings joy and happiness in a year when we need that, so we decided to extend our jewellery portfolio with the launch of a fresh, youthful jewellery brand that’s only avail-

able online,” says Shani Naidoo, TFG Group Director. “The Galaxy & Co shopper is a digital native and has no barrier to shopping online, but in time we may introduce bricks-and-mortar stores too.”

The addition of Galaxy & Co to the TFG universe means the group now owns three jewellery brands, with heritage brands Sterns and American Swiss having launched their online stores in August this year.

“We’ve been delighted by the interest shown in online jewellery shopping since the launch of the Sterns and American Swiss online stores. The enthusiasm to shop jewellery online inspired us to bring Galaxy & Co to life as a purely online experience. This is a part of TFG’s ongoing commitment to transforming the group digitally. The jewellery brands have over-performed, exceeding sales targets, even over the pressurised Black Friday promotion period,” says Naidoo.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

MASTER PLATINUM, GOLD AND SILVERSMITH DIETER ROWE-SETZ PASSES AWAY It was with great sadness that the industry learnt of the passing of Dieter Rowe-Setz on 23 January.

Austrian-born Rowe-Setz was a multi-disciplinary artist with a Master’s degree in platinum-, gold- and silversmithing. He moved to South Africa in 1975 and, over the years, received numerous awards for his designs, unique style and excellent craftmanship. He was an

JNA AWARDS IS NOW JEWELLERY WORLD AWARDS In response to the need for a global platform where innovative minds can share achievements and success in the international jewellery and gemstone industry, from this year the JNA Awards will be known as the Jewellery World Awards (JWA). The new name also reflects the way the awards programme has grown in stature, esteem, scope and scale since its inception in 2012.

After almost a decade of focusing on accomplishments within the Asian region, the awards will now welcome more entrants from different segments of the trade and all parts of the globe in order to share their insights and celebrate their achievements in a more fitting manner.

“The new JWA, together with Informa Markets Jewellery’s portfolio of fairs, media and digital platforms, is well positioned to create even stronger synergies for the global trade.

We strive to provide the best services and prod-

acclaimed artist who also exhibited in Japan, Austria, Italy and Luxemburg.

Rowe-Setz created unique art pieces combining photography, painting, sculpting and metalwork. His concept of “wearable art”, rather than jewellery, was inspired by places he had visited or worked in. He was a mentor to many local designers and manufacturers and was greatly loved and respected by his industry colleagues.

SAJN extends its heartfelt condolences to his family and friends.

ucts that will help create business opportunities in this time of change,” says David Bondi, Senior Vice-President: Asia at Informa Markets.

“JWA will continue to thrive on the legacy of its former self, the JNA Awards. It includes companies and entrepreneurs, regardless of business size, geographical origin or nature of business, in every facet of the trade and every corner of the world. We’ll keep recognising and honouring exceptional companies, as well as outstanding individuals who’ve made significant contributions and positive impacts on the world of jewellery and gemstones,” adds Letitia Chow, Chairperson and founder of JNA Awards at Informa Markets Jewellery.

Organised by Informa Markets Jewellery, the world’s largest B2B jewellery fair organiser, 2021 JWA has eight categories open for entry submission. The 2021 JWA ceremony and gala dinner will début in a hybrid format during the Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong fair in September, with the support of headline partners the Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group and the Shanghai Diamond Exchange, alongside honoured partners the KGK Group and Guangdong Land (Shenzhen) Ltd. JNA, the flagship publication of Informa Markets Jewellery, continues to be the official media partner of JWA. Key JWA events will be held during Asia’s leading mid-year fine jewellery sourcing destination, Jewellery and Gem ASIA Hong Kong (JGA) in June and Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong (JGW) in September.

LESOTHO’S LETŠENG MINE PRODUCES 147CT ROUGH LSE-listed Gem Diamonds has recovered a 146,9ct rough diamond from its Letšeng mine in Lesotho. The miner unearthed the high-quality type II diamond on 7 January. At the time of

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

going to print, the stone was the first 100ctplus diamond the company had found this year.

Last year, Gem Diamonds reported the recovery of 16 diamonds over 100ct.

For the

LOVE of gems A reputation you can trust Fully independent and South African owned Reports for all your Gemmological requirements

Tel: +27 11 334 4527 / Cell: +27 83 656 9013 E-mail: services@egl.co.za Website: www.egl.co.za Suite E8, First Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road Off Skeen Boulevard Bedfordview, Johannesburg

SAJN | INSURANCE

Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries

16

SOUTH AFRICAN RETAIL JEWELLERS CAN be roughly divided into four types, each of which serves a particular market segment with some overlap: 1. Established “family” businesses and upmar ket chain stores serving the local A+B income groups.

2. Upmarket retailers serving the tourist market.

3. Chain stores trading from malls offering mainly imported and locally mass-produced jewellery.

4. Internet sellers – some operations focus solely on online sales, while most bricks-and-mortar shops have an online presence.

Jewellers serving tourists and local upmarket clients are fewer in number, but their contribution to the SA Revenue Service and our gross domestic product may be more. A diverse supply chain comprising importers, wholesalers, jewellery manufacturers, insurers, etc depends

As Chairman of the Western Cape Branch of the Jewellery Council of SA, Dr Petré Prins often receive complaints from colleagues about clients unhappy with their insurance replacements. In an attempt to improve the co-operation between retail jewellers and insurers, he highlights current threats to the jewellery industry.

on the well-being of retail jewellers.

Over the past decade, technology, the Internet, laboratory-made gems, new jewellery production methods and changing consumer behaviour have irreversibly changed the nature of

thus form the foundation of our industry.

If the public loses trust in our retail jewellers’ products, services and integrity, then sales will dwindle, they and their supply chain will suffer and our insurance industry will have less to insure.

The public’s trust in jewellers and our insurance industry is based on: • The jewellers’ and insurer’s expertise and reputation.

• Receiving satisfactory service and value for money.

• The item which the client purchases conform ing to the specifications presented in adver tisements and sales presentations, described on an invoice and/or the valuation certificate that accompanies the item.

the jewellery industry worldwide. These changes need to be embraced by each of our market segments, as those unable to adjust will perish.

I. The essence of trust Fine jewellery is a luxury product and often an emotional purchase. The diamonds, gems and precious metals it contains are poorly understood by the average consumer. The reputation of and the consumer’s trust in the retail jeweller

• In other words, when retail jewellers fully disclose the nature of their products, avoid misleading advertisements, advise on the care of jewellery, supply guarantees and warran ties, etc, trust is established in the supplier and their products, which allows the con-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

INSURANCE | SAJN sumer to buy items they poorly understand with confidence. Sales will grow to the bene fit of all stakeholders.

II. The cost of misrepresentation Our jewellery market is awash with laboratory-grown diamonds, moissanites and coloured gemstones whose identification requires sophisticated machines and expertise. A retail jeweller without the required expertise or instrumentation is dependent on the integrity of his supplier and may inadvertently fail to disclose the true nature of what he sells.

Misrepresentation of these laboratory-grown gems has been reported by all grading laboratories. This is the elephant in the room of our industry that cannot be ignored.

Below are a few situations that threaten the reputation, trust and, ultimately, the profitability of jewellers and insurers alike: It takes only one unhappy client to approach Carte Blanche, print or social media – because what they bought as a natural diamond is, in fact, a man-made stone – to damage the credibility of the entire industry.

The damage to the public’s trust, built over centuries, can be destroyed overnight and a label of dishonesty hung around the necks of thousands of innocent retailers.

It takes one financially distressed client with a man-made diamond ring to get a valuation certificate describing it as a natural diamond, insure it, pay premiums for a few months, lose it and receive a natural diamond as a replacement – or, worse still – receive a cash payment for it. The insurer is the loser.

Daily, our gem laboratories encounter synthetic moissanite and laboratory-grown diamonds that were bought as natural diamonds by inexperienced dealers or jewellers.

Under financial duress, these jewellers may be tempted not to disclose the true nature of these stones. It may take years to expose this fraud, as clients keep heirlooms for many years. When finally identified as man-made, these stones tell a great story about the dishonesty of jewellers.

Thousands of gold rings containing diamonds are imported into SA. The stones they contain are described as diamonds, which the public can rightly assume to be natural.

Many in the industry will argue that although they do not know the real nature of the “diamonds” in their imported goods, it does not matter as there is little difference in the value of laboratory-grown vs natural stones of such small sizes. Understandably. But it does not remove the obligation of proper disclosure from a jeweller in order to prevent a disillusioned client or potential lawsuit.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

Today, coloured gems in a large portion of modern mass-produced jewellery are either laboratory-grown and/or enhanced in some way. Advertisers and sellers have to disclose such features and most of them do, but they often use very small print and unacceptable, obscure terminology. Ill-informed buyers may be highly upset, when, years later, their jewellery is re-assessed and they learn that their coloured gems are man-made or enhanced. Similarly, if a client discovers her natural sapphires were replaced by her insurer with similar sapphires, but manmade, the insurer will have an unhappy client to deal with.

Some may argue that our Consumer Protection Act (CPA) is to safeguard against misrepresentation. We all know that unhappy clients seldom approach the CPA. Instead, they bad-mouth the jeweller and/ or insurer, spew bile on social platforms or run to the media.

III. Insurance replacement concerns The jewellery and insurance industries serve the same client, whose satisfaction is of mutual interest. In short, jewellers need to insure their businesses against crime, their clients need insurance against loss and accidental breakage, while insurers need to sell policies to jewellers and their clients and require jewellers to replace jewellery at the best price possible.

Obviously, a healthy jewellery market is in the interests of both industries.

The following are issues that damage the consumer’s confidence in jewellers. as well as in their insurers: 1. Insurance replacement values Insurers rely on the valuation document or invoice issued by the retail jeweller and base their premiums on the description of the item and its replacement value as stated.

Although the SA Jewellery Council has issued guidelines to members on the terminology to be used on valuation certificates, there is no agreement or guidelines on how insurance replacement values should be calculated.

Example: I have seen the same item valued by two jewellers whose insurance values differed by more than 100%. This is unacceptable and confusing to the public.

One valuation certificate may offer a detailed description of the item, while the other describes it in the vaguest terms. Understandably, the insurer would prefer to offer a contract on the certificate with the vaguest description and/ or highest replacement value. Unfortunately, this often leads to an unhappy client.

A client once told me to my face: “Jewellers and insurers are all crooks.”

Our dilemma With the steep price of precious metals and gemstones, and the rand-dollar exchange rate in constant flux, insurance replacement values are understandably unstable. The great difference between the required margin of upmarket stores and online sellers further makes consensus on a general guideline for insurance values near-impossible.

However, to ignore the problem is to weaken the consumer’s trust. If an item is over-valued. it allows insurers high premiums and the option to replace at a relatively low cost. If the item is under-valued, the insurer cannot replace what the client had and may resort to a cash pay-out.

In a country where home robberies and jewellery store attacks are rampant, the insurance industry plays a vital role in keeping jewellery stores open and assuring the public that, if robbed, their jewellery will be replaced.

Without this service, the public will have less motivation to acquire jewellery.

17

SAJN | INSURANCE If the item is poorly or incorrectly described, the insurer may be within their rights to replace with an item that fits the description.

The result is invariably a client who is unhappy with both the jewellery she received and her insurer.

2. Misrepresentations The public’s acceptance of low-cartage jewellery, the appearance of hard-to-identify gems and the threat of potential lawsuits due to misrepresentation are mainly the jewellery industry’s concerns. However, the insurance industry should be aware of the required standards in describing gems and jewellery and ensure that those who do their replacements adhere to industry standards.

3. Preferred suppliers Since jewellery produced by CAD/CAM techniques replaced the more expensive bespoke handmade jewellery, wholesalers and retailers have started importing great volumes of mass-produced items from the East. Fortunately, a number of SA mass-producers are still supported by local jewellery chains.

In seeking to limit replacement costs, insurance companies have started using “insurance replacement specialists” who realise that servicing an insurance claim does not require mall rentals, glossy premises, advertising and carrying costs, etc. And because the bulk of stock carried by jewellery chains is imported, the insurance specialist can import similar items and supply them at a lower cost to the insurer.

Any business that can trim operating costs and, in turn, their selling price should be welcomed, provided they offer a competitive product and service, guarantees, warranties and after-sales service.

Our dilemma Insurance replacement specialists are probably best for replacing imported mass-produced jewellery sold in the market segments 3 and 4 described above. However, many will agree that a frugal, cost-cutting operation may find it difficult to provide the product, service and experience expected by clients in the upper income group.

The unhappy clients mentioned before were mainly from market segment 1, who had to replace their handmade jewellery at an “insurance replacement specialist”.

Our beleaguered jewellery industry, as well as our insurance companies, cannot afford unhappy and disillusioned clients.

Furthermore, every jewellery item replaced by an imported item is another nail in the coffin of our local jewellery manufacturers.

4. Cash pay-outs Insurers are aware that a cash settlement instead of replacing jewellery can lead to hidden agendas.

When consumers are financially stressed, when laboratory-grown stones are difficult to identify and easy to swap and when valuation certificates or invoices are vague, the unscrupulous can exploit insurance cash pay-outs.

It seems some insurance companies find it less troublesome, and probably less expensive, to settle a claim with a cash offer, as illustrated below.

IV. Recently encountered cases Mrs A (55) lost a handmade ring and asked her jeweller for a replacement quotation. Her jeweller retrieved the original manufacturing order and, knowing the insurer prefers to use “replacement specialists”, offered to replace the item at his cost. This he did to retain her as a client and to ensure she received a similar handmade ring that was of great emotional significance to her. When the insurer indicated that the quotation from a “replacement specialist” for a similar handmade ring was still cheaper, the jeweller asked for proof that his client would indeed receive a handmade ring. The insurer did not respond and, instead, offered the client a cash pay-out of an amount less than her jeweller’s no-profit quotation. The result: an unhappy client and a local goldsmith deprived of a job.

Client B (76) asked her jeweller for a quotation to replace a heavy 18ct gold chain she had bought from him a few decades before.

Her broker asked for proof of ownership. Her jeweller could retrieve a manufacturing order and valuation certificate from November 1989 and provided a quotation based on the original specifications. The insurer offered a cash settlement, which the client accepted. The result: a retailer and a goldsmith lost a job.

V. Proposed interventions There should be regular liaison between representatives of the SA Jewellery Council, insurers and their agents on issues of mutual concern and to establish acceptable norms (standards, if possible) on:

18

• Terminology and required information for “valuations for insurance purposes”.

• The basis for calculating insurance replace ment values.

• Limiting conditions on valuation documents.

• The minimum requirements for jewellery valuators.

• Standards for the quotation to replace jewel lery – to ensure that competing quotations are comparable.

Insurers and their agents should: • Offer consumers the opportunity to replace lost items at a jeweller of their choice, to ask for a quotation from these jewellers and to ensure that competing quotations are comparable.

• Consider the damage done to SA jewellery manufacturers when locally produced jewel lery is replaced by imported items.

The jewellery industry should: • Monitor misleading promotions and im proper disclosures and, if legally allowed, name and shame perpetrators.

• Seek funding from state institutions (possibly the Department of Trade & Industry) and large corporations for the above and other interventions to strengthen consumers’ trust in and support of our retail jewellers, jewel lery manufacturers and insurance companies.

Please be assured, the above was written without prejudice, in an attempt to improve the co-operation between retail jewellers and our insurers so that the trust and satisfaction of our consumers can grow. This would stimulate local jewellery sales to the benefit of all concerned.

• The statements in this article are my personal opinions, not those of the SA Jewellery Council, and are based on 40 years’ experience as a gemmologist and retail jeweller.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

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We encourage our clients and suppliers to be as environmentally responsible as possible when it comes to printing, merchandising and general business practice.

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Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 13 15

ISSUE 15 GEMSTONES A-Z DIOPTASE Have you ever seen a cluster of dark green crystals mounted in a gold pendant? It is probably dioptase. This is a copper-rich mineral that normally Dioptase crystals from Tsumeb crystallises in clusters of small perfect mine, Namibia. trigonal crystals that may look like synthetic emeralds. The Tsumeb mine in Namibia is worldfamous for its beautiful dioptase crystals.

tify their country of origin. Cubic pyrite and white calcite inclusions along fractures suggest a Columbian origin, while thin needle-like inclusions of tremolite are typical of emeralds from Sandawana (Zimbabwe). Typical inclusions in emerald.

Inclusions in emerald are often tree- or moss-like, which some jewellers call jardin, the French word for “garden”.

An abundance of inclusions, especially in larger gems, will obviously affect their brilliance and lower the value.

Never bring acids or an ultrasonic cleaner near dioptase.

Value

ELBAITE Elbaite is the mineralogical name for olive to dark green tourmaline. It is the most abundant of all gem tourmalines.

Fine 3-5ct gems can cost up to US$80/ct.

EMERALD

The value of an emerald is based mainly on its colour, and if it is a large gem, its purity. The saturated intense green (looking like the fresh green of a new meadow) is the most valued. Fine-quality emeralds of 1-2ct range in price from US$800-2 000/ct, while the smaller (0,10-0,30ct) commercial stones cost from US$250-450/ct.

Enhancements

Emerald is a beryllium aluminium silicate and a green variety of the mineral beryl. It is the birthstone for May. Trace amounts of chromium and vanadium are responsible for the rich green colour which has made it one of the world’s most sought-after gems.

The majority of emeralds have been enhanced, ie, oiled to improve their colour and clarity, or fracture-filled with resin to make fractures and inclusions less visible. These enhancements must be disclosed to potential buyers.

In the 1990s, bad publicity around the enhancement of emeralds destroyed public confidence and emerald prices dropped sharply, only to recover in the New Millennium.

History Synthetics Emerald was known by the ancients and, because of its long history, has been shrouded in much lore and mysticism. It was believed that the owner of an emerald would be able to see into the future, strengthen his memory or become an eloquent speaker. Green was regarded as the colour most beneficial to sight and the placement of emeralds on the eyelids was believed to improve vision.

The earliest emerald deposits were located south of Cairo (Cleopatra’s mines). Spanish conquistadors discovered emeralds in Colombia in the 1500s, which today are still regarded as the highest in value. Other sources are Brazil, Zambia and Afghanistan.

Inclusions Emeralds are seldom eye-clean. They normally contain a variety of inclusions which help the gemmologist to iden-

Emeralds have been synthesised (made by man) since the start of the 20th century. Hydrothermal flame fusion and flux-grown processes are used to produce synthetic emeralds that are normally of better clarity and colour, but much lower in price than that of the natural gem. Synthetic emeralds are normally named after their creator or the process used and names such are Chatham and Biron flame fusion are well known.

Care Emeralds need to be handled with care - no ultrasonic cleaning or heat must be applied. A jeweller’s torch will remove the oil or resin filling, if present, or may cause cracks to extend.

AN INTRODUCTION GEMSTONES TOA-Z GEMSTONES

FELDSPAR

GARNET

Feldspar is the name of an important rock-forming mineral group. The most frequent feldspar gems are moonstone, amazonite, labradorite and sunstone. These gems cleave easily in two directions which are Emerald cut feldspar. approximately 90° to each other.

Feldspar gems are normally opaque and cut cabochon.

The transparent ones will be facetted.

FLUORITE

Garnet minerals are classified as a group, like tourmaline and feldspar.

They crystallise in the cubic crystal system and The many colours of garnet. are normally found in metamorphic rocks. They occur in all colours of the rainbow and are used as the birthstone for January. It is difficult to identify a specific garnet species because they all have the same symmetry and their chemistry overlaps significantly.

Lore

Fancy cut fluorite, 16ct.

A soft mineral (CaF 2) with a hardness of 4 that occurs as a massive rock or as large transparent crystals in soft pastel colours. Not suitable for rings but often carved into statuettes, vases, snuff boxes, etc.

FOOL’S GOLD The familiar name for the mineral pyrite (FeS2). It occurs as large metallic yellow cubic crystals with a brassy appearance.

Gold ore from the Witwatersrand is normally visibly speckled with pyrite (the gold itself is difficult to see), resulting in the colloquial term.

The Egyptians used garnets as an antidote for a snakebite.

Asiatic tribes believed that it had a special affinity with blood and thus used rounded garnets as bullets so that a more serious wound would be inflicted when the garnet travelled through the bloodstream. Noah, reportedly, hung a large garnet in the ark for illumination.

The more important gem varieties are described under their individual names.

GOLDSTONE A synthetic glass containing shiny inclusions, usually copper crystals or flakes, which give it a copper or gold colour with an aventurescent effect.

Goldstone cabochon.

GROSSULARITE

Cluster of pyrite crystals.

Grossularite is a mineral species belonging to the garnet group, whose major chemistry is that of a calcium-aluminium silicate. Trace amounts of other elements cause its colour to

Pyrite oval cabochon.

There are five basic garnet gem species, namely: Specie

Colour

Known as

1-3ct fine gems

Grossularite

Orangey-brown

Hessonite garnet

US$10-40/ct

Massive jade-like

Transvaal jade

US$5-10/ct

Chrome green

Tsavorite

US$400-900/ct

Light to dark brownish-red

Cape ruby

US$5-10/ct

Medium to dark red

Chrome-red

US$125/ct

Pinkish-red with hint of purple

Rhodolite garnet

US$40-55/ct

Red-violet to brownish-red

Grape garnets

US$8-12/ct

If purple

US$100/ct

Pyrope

Almandite

Spessartite

Orange to yellowish-brown

Mandarin garnet when vivid orange

US$300-400/ct

Andradite

Olive to dark green

Demantoid garnet

US$700-2 000/ct

ISSUE 15

vary from yellow-orange to reddish-orange called hessonite or cinnamon stone, and from yellowish-green to intense green called tsavorite.

GYPSUM The mineral gypsum consists of calcium sulphate with water and has a huge commercial value. As a colourless and fibrous gem, it is known as satinspar. As a massive aggregate of micro crystals, opaque and in all types of pale colours, it is known as alabaster. It is soft (H=2) and is used to carve ornaments and statuettes.

HELIODOR Heliodor - from the Greek word for “gift from the sun” - is a pale lemon to yellow-coloured species of the beryl mineral group. It is mined in Brazil, Madagascar, USA and Namibia and occurs as large, eye-clean crystals which can be facetted into beautiful and brilliant gems that are quite affordable (up to US$25/ct). If its colour is orangey-yellow, it is called golden beryl. It was known in the Middle Ages and believed to be able to rekindle an old love and Heliodor, 12ct. improve the intellect.

HEMATITE Hematite is an opaque dark grey to black mineral with a metallic lustre that is often carved into cameos or intaglios or used as beads. It is, in fact, an iron oxide and will rust if exposed to the elements. Hematite is inexpensive and well-rounded beads have been passed off as black pearls. Its weight (SG = 5,2) is a give-away.

Hematite, round cabochons with metallic lustre.

HESSONITE A yellow-orange to reddish-orange garnet, also called cinnamon stone. Sri Lanka and India are the main producers.

HYDROGROSSULAR This species is a translucent light to dark green garnet mineral that rarely forms crystals. It occurs in a massive (microcrystalline) form which is often used as a jade substitute. In Mpumalanga, a chrome-rich variety which

Transvaal jade (hydrogrossular) with typical black chromite specks.

is speckled with small chromite (black) crystals is mined and called Transvaal jade . It is inexpensive and normally polished into cabochons or beads.

ICELAND SPAR Iceland spar is a colourless and transparent variety of the mineral calcite (CaCO3). When it occurs as a translucent fibrous variety, it is called satinspar, similar to the name given to fibrous gypsum.

IOLITE Iolite is another name for the mineral cordierite. As a gem, it is normally light to dark blue or violet, resem-bling sapphire - thus the misnomer “water sapphire”. It exhibits strong pleochroism that changes from pale greyish-brown to dark violet-blue as the gem is turned.

Iolite is not expensive (US$20-50/ct) and an excellent substitute for blue sapphire. Iolite is found in the gem gravels of Ceylon and in upper Burma (Myanmar), as well as India, Tanzania and Karasburg in Namibia. It is also known as “The Viking’s Compass”, as early seafarers used thin slices of iolite as polarising filters in their navigation.

INDICOLITE The term “indicolite” is used to describe blue tourmalines.

A pure blue colour is very rare. Most often the colour of indicolite is blue with a tint of green or grey which may vary between the saturated blue colour of sapphire to the pale blue of aquamarine. Fine-quality indicolites can cost up to US$250/ct.

IVORY Ivory is an organic material derived from the tusks of the elephant, walrus, hippopotamus, warthog and wild boar. Ivory-producing marine mammals include whales, walruses, narwhals, seals, sea otters and polar bears. The most sought-after ivory is from the tusks of the extinct mastodon and mammoth elephant.

The chemical composition of elephant’s tusk is 65% calcium carbonate and 35% organic material such as collagen and elastin.

GEMSTONES A-Z

Polished surfaces of elephant ivory display characteristic features. A “criss-cross” or “machine-turned” pattern can often be seen.

It is illegal to import ivory from endangered animal species into most countries.

glassy green variety is called imperial jadeite and is the most valuable of all jades. Jadeite also occurs in colours ranging from white, green and brown to lilac. Lavender jade from Hong Kong is normally stained. The central American Mayan culture carved masks and ornaments from a jadeite source in Guatemala.

Value

Section through the tooth of a mammoth.

Ivory disc showing typical “ criss-cross” texture.

Trade names for different ivory varieties are: Cape ivory - softer, yellowish to white.

Green ivory - from Tanzania and regarded as the finest.

Hard ivory - brighter and glassier from Angola.

JADE The term “jade” refers to either of two minerals: jadeite and nephrite.

These minerals look the same, but have different chemical compositions.

They are described individually under Jadeite and Nephrite in this chapter.

Alaskan jade carved in early Chinese style. Photo: Desaults, P and Boltin, L

Treatment Jade is often treated by acid-soaking, bleaching, colour-staining, waxing or impregnated by resins. Such jade is known as “B” jade and the type of treatment must be disclosed to the purchaser.

Durability Although jade is tougher than steel, it can chip. Do not steam-clean jade. If it is waxed, it will lose its lustre or, when subjected to heat above 600 ºC, it will turn brown.

JADEITE Jadeite is a sodium aluminium silicate and was discovered in the middle of the 18th century in Burma (now Myanmar). Today, this is still the only source of fine jadeite. The intense emerald-like, semi-transparent,

The Chinese perfected jade carving, which forms an important part of their culture. The value of jade depends on its transparency and the evenness and intensity of its colour. Prices for top-quality imperial jadeite range from about US$6 200 for an 8 x 10 mm cabochon to US$50 000 for a 13 x 18 mm cabochon.

The apple-green jadeite is more affordable at US$400 for an 8 x 10 mm cabochon and up to US$3 000 for a 13 x 18 mm cabachon.

Ice jade cabochons are priced from US$200-300 each. Black jadeite is gaining in popularity. A strand of fine 12 mm black jadeite beads recently sold for about US$10 000 at auction.

JASPER Jasper is a general name given to chalcedony of any colour, except black or those with a special name such as onyx or bloodstone.

JET Jet is a fine-grained, opaque and compact variety of coal. It is pitch (jet) black, can carve easily and be perfectly polished. It attained much popularity in mourning jewellery during the Victorian era. When touched by a redhot needle, the smell of burning anthracite is noticeable.

Polished slab (12,5 cm) of red jasper with milky quartz veins.

KUNZITE Kunzite is the pink to violet-coloured gem variety of the mineral spodumene, a lithium aluminium silicate. It was discovered in 1901 in California and named after the mineralogist George F Kuntz. It is a very difficult gem to polish as it has two distinct cleavages and often flakes during polishing. Large (10-30ct) eye-clean gems are available at prices ranging from US$45-90/ct, depending on the intensity of its colour. Natural colour kunzite can fade when exposed to heat via direct sunlight or in a jeweller’s showcase. Its colour can also be enhanced

ISSUE 15

through a complex process of heat and irradiation. This induced colour fades even faster than that of a natural colour kunzite.

Care Kunzite should be protected from any kind of shock, heat, pressure and vibration. Steam or ultrasonic cleaning should not be done.

Rather clean the gem with a soft toothbrush and jewellery cleaner.

MACKLE When the internal structure of a diamond is twinned according to the spinel twin law, it forms a flattened, triangular-shaped crystal called a mackle. Such twinned crystals are difficult to cut and not as valuable as the perfect octahedral crystal forms.

MALACHITE

Cushion cut kunzite, 7ct.

LABRADORITE Labradorite is a bluish-grey species of the feldspar group of minerals. When cut cabochon, it exhibits a broad iridescent colour band, similar Labradorite. to the colour reflections from the wings of a blue butterfly. The blue-grey colour flashes seen on highly polished table tops made from the dark Norwegian blue granite are due to large labradorite crystals in the rock.

LAPIS LAZULI Lapis lazuli is an intense blue to violet-blue rock composed of the blue silicate mineral lazurite, calcite (white veins) and Lapis lazuli with minute specs of pyrite (fool’s gold). pyrite specs.

Its intense colour has been appreciated for more than 6 000 years. For many centuries, the only source was Afghanistan, from where it is still exported to the world. Cleopatra used it as a powder in facial make-up, while medieval painters could not produce their paintings without the use of lapis as pigment.

Recent discoveries were made in Chile and Siberia.

Lapis lazuli is normally fashioned as beads and cabochons, carved and used in mosaics.

Enhancements and detection Lapis lazuli is often dyed. This can be detected by rubbing the surface with cotton wool dipped in acetone (nail polish remover). A blue stain will remain on the cotton wool.

A drop of hydrochloric acid on lapis reacts with the sulphur in the rock to produce the distinct smell of rotten eggs.

The more intense the colour, and the less white calcite and bronzy pyrite are present, the more expensive lapis lazuli is.

Mackle diamond crystal.

Malachite is an opaque yellow-green to dark green copper-rich mineral, usually banded in light and dark Polished malachite slab (20cm high). layers similar to agate.

It is used primarily for ornamental purposes and as beads for necklaces. It is often dyed or waxed and will be corroded by chemicals. Zaire is the world’s main source of fine malachite.

MANDARIN GARNET A spessartite garnet with a vivid orange colour is known as mandarin garnet. Large gems are extremely rare and when eye-clean, are the most expensive garnets to be found. Namibia is one of the world’s most important producers.

MARBLE The rock called marble is a granular aggregate of calcite crystals. It is mainly used as ornamental stone for tiles and statues. It can vary in colour from white to nearly all other colours.

MARCASITE Marcasite is a polymorph of pyrite, which means it has the same chemical formula as pyrite (FeS2), but a different crystal structure. It is paler in colour and less stable than pyrite and will crumble over time. It cannot be used in jewellery. However, the term “marcasite” is used to describe the small facetted crystals of pyrite that are set in silver jewellery. This is very confusing, as we talk about marcasite jewellery (popular in Victorian times and until the late 1930s) that contains pyrite, not marcasite.

GEMSTONES A-Z

MOLDAVITE When a meteor impact created the Riess crater in Germany millions of years ago, droplets of molten rock were thrown into space. These droplets cooled to form yellowish-green natural glass fragments that were discovered 150 years ago in Moldavia (150 km from the impact crater). They are used in jewellery in their natural state, or as facetted gems, and are especially popular among New Age supporters.

Facetted gems can cost as Moldavite rough and much as US$50/ct. polished gem, 6ct.

MOONSTONE

Morganites are quite scarce as there are no morganite mines.

It is a by-product in tourmaline and aquamarine mines in Brazil, Madagascar and California.

NACRE The outermost layer of a natural or cultured pearl which consists of thin platelets of the calcium carbonate mineral aragonite (82-86%), separated by a protein called conchiolin (10-14%) and 2-4% water.

The beautiful lustre of pearls and especially the effect of rainbow colours, called orient, are caused by light being diffracted (broken up into spectral colours) by the thin layers of aragonite.

Microscopic structure of nacre. Platelets of aragonite (CaCO3) are separated by protein.

Moonstone is a gem variety of the mineral orthoclase feldspar. It is normally cut cabochon and is colourless or with a white body colour. As the gem is tilted, a blue or white glow called adularescence seems to be floating over its surface. It has an aura of mystery and when the gem is translucent, without inclusions and showing distinct blue adularescence, it is most sought-after. Recently, facetted moonstones appeared on the market.

Most fine moonstones are from Sri Lanka and may cost up to US$50/ct. Fine gems larger than 5ct are very scarce.

Care Moonstone can be fragile (it has a distinct cleavage) and is not heat-tolerant. Clean it with lukewarm, soapy water.

MORGANITE Morganite is a beautiful pink gem which belongs to the beryl mineral family. It was discovered more than 100 years ago and was named after the famous banker and gem collector JP Morgan. The most expensive gems are those with a dark pure pink colour.

It was recently discovered that those with a peachy or salmon colour will lose the orange component when exposed to sunlight over a long period. These are one of the few gems whose colour improves with time.

NEPHRITE Nephrite is a tough, compact variety of the amphibole mineral group and is an important jade mineral. It is a calcium magnesium silicate and was discovered nearly 5 000 years ago in Turkistan (western China) and has long been associated with Asian culture. It is translucent to opaque and comes in dark green, grey, white, yellow and reddish-brown colours. The most important green variety is known as spinach or Chinese jade, which normally comes from New Zealand. Other varieties are called mutton fat (translucent white to cream-coloured), chicken bone (opaque white to light brown or grey) and tomb or grave jade (ancient burial pieces with chalkylooking surfaces). The colour of nephrite is less intense than that of jadeite (the other jade mineral), causing it to be less expensive. It is also mined in Siberia, Taiwan and Alaska.

Horse carved from spinach jade on base of chicken bone jade.

Carved New Zealand nephrite pendant.

ISSUE 15

OBSIDIAN

Lore Obsidian is a volcanic glass sometimes polished as a semi-precious gem. It is normally black but green, brown and yellow material is also known. A black variety with white to grey patches is rather attractive and is known as “flowered” or “snowflake” obsidian.

Pear-shaped cabochon of “snowflake obsidian”.

The early Romans treasured opal as the king of gems, as it held within it the colours of all others. Shakespeare called it the “queen of gems”. Unfortunately, it obtained a reputation as “the bringer of bad luck” because of a novel by Sir Walter Scott. In his book Anne of Gierstein, the heroine, Lady Hermione, had an enchanted opal which, when it lost its lustre, was blamed for her death. Today, opals are back in fashion and used as the birthstone for October.

OLIVINE

Characteristics

The term “olivine” is sometimes used incorrectly by jewellers when they describe demantoid garnet. Olivine is a magnesium iron silicate mineral (Mg,Fe)2SiO4 whose gem variety is called peridot.

Precious opal has a very distinct play of colour and is best described by determining its background colour. This can either be black, grey, orange or, more commonly, white.

ONYX When chalcedony (microcrystalline quartz) displayed agate-like bands that are straight and parallel, it was traditionally called onyx. It was also used to describe any dyed chalcedony. In Italy, the term is misused in describing a greenish-grey banded marble.

Today the term “onyx” is mainly used to describe the plain black cabochons used in men’s jewellery. Onyx with alternative bands of black and/or white and reddish-brown colours is called sardonyx.

OPAL

The pattern of colour play is described as “pinfire”, “flame”, “ribbon” or “harlequin”.

When the overall palette is blues and greens, it is described as “peacock” opal. When reds and orange dominate, it is called “fire” opal. When opal does not display colour flashes, it is known as “common” opal.

“Harlequin” pattern of colour play in opal.

“Pinfire” peacock opal cabochons.

Varieties Opal is a mineral with an amorphous crystal structure and a chemical composition of SiO2.nH2O. Its water content is normally 3-10%, but can be as high as 30%. It consists of tiny, tightly packed silica spheres. When the size of these spheres is similar, they act as a diffraction grid and the passing light is dispersed as a unique flash of rainbow colours.

Opals are mainly found in Australian desert sands.

Coober Pedy and Lightning Ridge are among the most famous localities in Australia. These deposits were formed 65 million Precious boulder opal in years ago when inland ironstone matrix. 5 cm pieces. seas disappeared and silica-rich ground water seeped into cracks and clay layers to deposit thin layers of opal. Precious opal is also mined in Tanzania, Ethiopia and Somaliland.

Among the many opal varieties with which a jeweller may come into contact are:

White opal (also called milky opal) - when colours flash over a white background.

Black opal - play of colour against a black or other dark body colour.

Boulder opal - thin veins of colourful opal in a copper tone host rock called iron-stone.

Fire opal (also known as Mexican opal) - has little play of colour, is semi-transparent and has a dominant orange colour.

Jelly opal (also called water opal) - colourless and semitransparent. A dark backing will improve its colour flashes.

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SAJN | JEWELLERY DESIGN

Shining Lights Awards theme send message of hope Diamond jewellery design is increasingly emerging as a vehicle to spark employment, entrepreneurship and innovation among young people in Africa and North America as the continents position themselves to take a greater slice of the global diamond jewellery market.

30

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

JEWELLERY DESIGN | SAJN IN 2019, THE GLOBAL JEWELLERY MARKET was valued at approximately US$229,3 billion and was forecast to reach US$291,7 billion by 2025, according to global research expert Mahsa Shahbadeh. “Africa and Canada’s share of this market is steadily growing, thanks to the creativity of entrepreneurs, modern production technologies and online sales platforms,” says Peter Phemelo Moeti, Senior Vice-President of De Beers Sightholder Sales SA. “The broader industry is putting in a huge amount of effort to revive the South African diamond beneficiation sector, which includes rough diamond cutting and polishing, jewellery design and manufacturing. In this way, the industry is creating the opportunity for a new generation of young diamond jewellery designers to make their mark,” says Moeti.

A key initiative in this regard is the De Beers Group Designers Initiative (DBGDI), a youth beneficiation skills development initiative aimed at giving young jewellers world-class diamond jewellery design and manufacturing skills.

Through the Shining Light Awards (SLA), the initiative has established a growing footprint in each of the De Beers Group’s diamondproducing countries: Botswana, Canada, Namibia and SA. The 2020/2021 instalment of the SLA jewellery design competition invites young dia-

mond jewellery designers to showcase their talent. The SLA, which have existed for 23 years in SA, 11 years in Botswana and Namibia and two years in Canada, have created a range of partnerships with tertiary institutions and industry to provide a platform for as many young jewellers as possible to win an opportunity to enhance their jewellery design skills.

This year’s design theme, “The Evolution of Love and Life”, aims to inspire young designers to create innovative and game-changing pieces showcasing their interpretation of the concept. The pieces should be versatile and combine commerciality with red-carpet elegance, celebrate fresh thinking, showcase the beauty, strength and sustainability of natural diamonds and appeal to a millennial consumer anywhere in the world.

“The 2020/2021 SLA theme was birthed from the current global context and sends a powerful message of hope and resilience at a time when the world continues to evolve and innovate at lightning speed, and humankind continues searching for meaning and gaining strength through our traditions, our culture and our passions that have made us resolute for centuries. Now, more than ever before, we celebrate love and life,” says Pat Dambe, Vice-President of Corporate Affairs & Government Relations: De Beers Global Sightholder Sales.

“Creating an enabling environment for beneficiation to succeed is critical, especially for a sector that competes on an international stage. By creating an international platform for showcasing local talent, we’re giving young designers access to the global diamond jewellery market,” says Dambe.

Three winners will be selected from each producer country and stand a chance of winning a 12-month post-graduate programme at Politecnico di Milano in Milan, the design

and fashion capital of the world, a 12-month artisanal goldsmith training programme in SA and a three-month exposure in a De Beers Group business unit.

Previous awardees of the SLA have secured employment with international jewellery manufacturing houses, established their own businesses in SA and internationally, and are lecturing at tertiary institutions. They have also gone on to shine globally: Hunadi Tlomatsana, the 2012 winner and owner of Caliente Designs, a jewellery design and manufacturing company, received a merit award from the International Jewellery Design Excellence at the Hong Kong Show, ahead of 187 entries from 28 countries.

Entries for the 2020/2021 competition open on 30 January 2021 and close on 31 March. For further information, visit: www. shininglightsawards.com.

The broader industry is putting in a huge amount of effort to revive the South African diamond beneficiation sector, which includes rough diamond cutting and polishing, jewellery design and manufacturing. In this way, the industry is creating the opportunity for a new generation of young diamond jewellery designers to make their mark.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

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DIAMONDS | SAJN

Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z Diamond jewellery is the most desired tangible luxury product among consumers under the age of 40, second only to vacations, according to a survey by the Natural Diamond Council (NDC).

THE MAJORITY OF DEMOgraphic groups picked vacations as the luxury item they would most want to buy or receive if money were no object, the NDC said in a recent statement. Female purchasers and male recipients were the only ones to choose natural-diamond jewellery as their favourite.

Most categories – including male purchasers and female recipients – selected diamond jewellery as their second choice. Electronics and apparel beat it to that spot in a minority of cases, including among Generation Z, which preferred clothing to diamonds, but still gave vacations as their top choice.

“Despite the pandemic, or because of it, desirability of diamonds remains very high among this audience, with real-diamond jewellery being number two only to travel when it comes to choices on which to spend discretionary expenditure,” said David Kellie, CEO of the NDC, in a letter to the industry.

The NDC commissioned 360 Market Reach to carry out the survey in October 2020. Researchers asked 5 000 people between the ages of 18 and 39 to rank these nine luxury products: clothing, cosmetics, electronics, handbags and accessories, natural-diamond jewellery, perfume, shoes, vacations and watches.

It focused on comparing the desirability of diamonds with that of other items. Therefore, it excluded consumers who had not purchased diamond jewellery in the past two years and would definitely not be open to acquiring diamond jewellery in the future. – Rapaport

The mission of the Natural Diamond Council is to advance the integrity of the modern diamond jewellery industry and inspire, educate and protect the consumer. Together, its seven members represent approximately 75% of the world’s rough diamond production. With 35 operations in eight countries across four continents, NDC members impact the lives and environments of millions of people.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

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SAJN | JEWELLERY DESIGN

Natasha Collins, founder of Natasha-G Jewellery, is a contemporary jewellery designer based in Cape Town with her sights set on the globe. Her visions are bold, but enigmatic; sometimes powerful, sometimes playful, always elegant – and within these dualities, she finds a balance which is uniquely her own.

Head, heart and hands Tell us about yourself.

I was born in London and came to South Africa when I was 14. I was raised by my mom. Her partner was a welder and he could fix and make anything. He also used to collect stones and polish them. I was in awe of that, as I also loved making things, building, beading and creating.

I used to love visiting my gran. Her home is like an art gallery. My great-grandfather was very involved in the Arts and Crafts movement: he collected a lot of arts and crafts jewellery and silver and was very interested in design.

He had many first editions from various private presses and he was Chief Architect of Allied Breweries. He had a very keen eye for detail, the architectural aspect of jewellery and its movement and fluidity, which have influenced my designs to this day. Whenever I went to visit

my gran, I would leave with an exquisite piece of jewellery – something antique.

I’d always wanted to be a shoe designer, as I have an obsession with shoes (in fact, my first word was “shoe”!). However, from the moment I first started making jewellery, I couldn’t stop and that became my passion.

Who is your biggest mentor and what was the best advice they have ever given you?

I’ve had many mentors for different facets of my business, though some have been more prevalent at different times.

My first jewellery design teacher, Marcus Mercer, taught me the core elements and has been my biggest mentor when it comes to design and making jewellery.

Some of the best advice I’ve been given comes from other sources, such as “Think like the consumer”, “Obsess the customer” and “Don’t do business with anyone you wouldn’t have lunch with”.

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How did you first get interested in jewellery design?

It was the practical aspect that first interested me. I started metalwork in Grade 10 and then took design as a subject in Grades 11 and 12.

What makes your designs unique?

Any designer who creates from inspiration and doesn’t copy anyone else’s work has unique designs. As humans, we’re all unique and design is a translation of one’s personal perception.

Art, beauty and design excite me. I draw inspiration from the things that ignite a fire in me.

As a designer, I’m extremely versatile and can quickly and easily adapt to my surrounding culture and translate it into my designs.

With commissioned work, I’m very responsive to mood and emotion. I’m particularly skilled at drawing out of the client what they

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

JEWELLERY DESIGN | SAJN want and translating that into a perfect piece of jewellery for them, so I’m driven as much by intuition as by inspiration. It might be something that they didn’t even realise they desired. I enjoy translating people’s personalities through jewellery to create the perfect “fit” for an individual, so that they feel the item’s been made just for them.

Can you talk us through the process of design and making?

It depends on whether it’s a custom-made, once-off jewellery piece (like an engagement ring) or a new collection. There are also a few different processes that can be used, depending on the piece.

However, there’s always a design process, which starts with getting together concepts, various images of other jewellery, colours, textures and imagery that feels right. From there, I start to design the piece or collection.

That’s definitely my favourite part of the process.

I usually draw up at least five rough designs – sometimes many more – and then pick one as a starting point.

From there, I do a three-dimensional digital image rendering of the piece and then keep altering it until it’s perfect. Once we’re satisfied with it, we do a wax print of it. Sometimes this needs to be done a few times, until we’re happy with the print. We then proceed to make a mould so that many can be made or cast straight away, if it’s not a custom piece.

The casting is then cleaned up by hand. If the piece has stones, they’re set and, finally, the piece is polished.

This is just one of the (more modern) methods used. When I learnt to make jewellery, we didn’t use technology to design or print. Everything I did was by hand. I would hand-carve from wax or from the material itself. I used to work with resin, African blackwood and verdite, which I used for inlays. Nowadays I work primarily with silver, gold and brass.

In terms of the actual crafting process, my hands guide me. I never force the metal to become anything: instead, I let it guide me.

It’s really a dance between me and the metal, where neither of us knows exactly what the choreography is until we’re both in motion.

I prefer to start a piece not knowing exactly what will happen. Spontaneity and imaginative licence are as important to my aesthetic as technical excellence.

Whatever the design demands will determine the process I choose to use. Most of my designs are still made by hand from start to finish.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

Where do you find inspiration?

As a designer, I need to lead a life that excites me. I can find inspiration from something as simple as going for a walk in the mountains or on the beach, or sitting in a coffee shop. The key for me to be inspired is to simply do little things every day that bring me joy. If I do that, my inspiration is limitless. I think that’s what makes my designs versatile.

What do you enjoy most about your work?

I love the fact that there so many components to what I do. I’m absolutely in love with the design process and seeing my visions come to

What are the pros and cons of being a jewellery designer in SA? Being a designer in SA seems to immediately brand you as “exotic” around the rest of the globe, especially to the commercial tourist market. Thankfully, there are now burgeoning international markets wanting items that are more on-trend and unpredictable, so that’s a pro. When I began my journey as a jewellery designer, the market in SA was far less saturated than other parts of the world, but we’re now catching up!

A con would certainly be our currency, bearing in mind that the price of precious metals, gems and diamonds is linked to the US dollar and changes every day.

Do you have a favourite piece of jewellery from your collection?

My Skinny Bangles were what started the ORA Collection. “Ora” means “now” in Italian. I wanted to create a custom, once-off piece that was affordable and accessible to everyone. The bangle is made from a 3 mm round brass rod and each bangle has its own unique pattern on it. The inspiration for this bangle originally came from the skin of a snake and African patterns. I would hand-pattern each section of the bangle using a saw, hammer, ball burr, diamond disc and various other tools.

I loved making these bangles because I could design them as I went along and I found a sense of freedom and volatility in that.

The ORA Collection started with only bangles – the Skinny, the Classic, the Twisting and the Knot. I wholesaled these to shops and they did really well. Slowly I added rings, pendants and earrings. The collection grew organically, without a plan, I must confess. And as the demand grew, ORA grew.

If you could pick anyone to wear your jewellery, who would it be?

American entrepreneur Sara Blakely, as she’s a female business icon and her global brand represents everything I aspire to having my own brand become.

Who or what couldn’t you live without?

My morning routine, which consists of meditation, journalling, a gratitude list and plenty of coffee!

life. As a business-owner, there are also always many different things I have to do. I love learning and I enjoy being busy.

I love working on my own, where I’m unconstrained. However, I also enjoy collaborating in projects, when the opportunity arises.

What does the future hold?

I’ve always dreamed of having a global brand and a line of exquisite jewellery that’s accessible to everyone who wants it. In the immediate future, I’d like to extend awareness and visibility of my work through strategic marketing relationships with stockists and retailers.

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SAJN | DIAMOND GRADING

GIA’s Johannesburg lab spots rare inscription fraud in simulant

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has uncovered three synthetic moissanites with forged inscriptions that fraudsters had used to misrepresent them as natural diamonds.

THE THREE CASES OF SYNTHETIC MOISSANites with forged inscriptions at the Johannesburg laboratory marked the first time the GIA had discovered fake girdle inscriptions on diamond simulants, it said in a recent article in its academic journal, Gems & Gemology.

The lab initially received a round brilliant, 1,02-carat stone for a diamond-grading report.

The report number on the girdle was for an E-colour natural diamond with the same weight that was graded in 2019, but the dimensions were different because moissanite has lower specific gravity, meaning that it weighs less relative to its volume.

Standard testing showed the stone was not a diamond, while subsequent spectroscopic and gemmological analysis proved it was synthetic

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moissanite, GIA researchers wrote in the fall 2020 edition of Gems & Gemology, which it released in January.

“The possibility exists that a consumer could purchase this simulant thinking it was a natural diamond, especially with a deliberately misleading inscription,” wrote Sicebiso Hlatshwayo, a Supervisor of Diamond Grading at the GIA in Johannesburg, and Sally Eaton-Magaña, Senior Manager of Diamond Identification at the GIA in Carlsbad, California.

Since writing the article about the first stone, the same lab in Johannesburg received and identified two more synthetic moissanites with fraudulent inscriptions, the GIA added in a note.

In addition to the size discrepancy, the first stone’s clarity was equivalent to VVS2 (the GIA does not usually give moissanite a grade of this type), whereas the diamond it was imperson-

ating was VVS1. The inscription’s font was also distinctly different from the GIA’s standard one.

The GIA obscured the fraudulent inscription, in line with its usual practice.

People sometimes mistake synthetic moissanite for diamond because some of their properties are similar, such as their hardness and thermal conductivity, the gemmologists explained. The latter feature is often a method of distinguishing diamonds from simulant, but it can fail if the stone is moissanite.

However, the stone showed “double refraction” – a feature of moissanite, absent in diamonds, that gives it more brilliance.

Another key difference between the materials is dispersion, the GIA pointed out. Moissanite has higher dispersion, meaning light that enters the stone is refracted more. The eye, therefore, sees a more distinct range of colours, giving it more “fire” than diamonds. – Rapaport

The possibility exists that a consumer could purchase this simulant thinking it was a natural diamond, especially with a deliberately misleading inscription.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

JEWELLERY | SAJN

Article pull quote

“March is Me” Month The Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) has announced its 2021 “March is Me” Month campaign. Although Women’s Day in SA falls on 9 August, the campaign is aligned with International Women’s Day, which is 8 March.

THE WJA WILL ONCE AGAIN ENCOURAGE women to buy jewellery for themselves with its second annual March is Me Month promotional initiative. The campaign is specifically aligned with International Women’s Day on 8 March 2021, which celebrates women around the world. March is Me Month, however, will play out through the entire month of March.

Marketing assets will allow participants to advertise, use e-mail and social media, and incor-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

porate website and in-case signage to align with the national campaign. The association invites retailers, designers, suppliers, manufacturers and trade associations to share its messaging.

The March is Me Month initiative was developed by the WJA Women’s Executive Leadership Forum, a group of high-level female executives in the jewellery, gem and watch industries. The group has been working on building partnerships across the industry as it prepares for the future of jewellery retail and the increased purchasing power of the female consumer.

“Our campaign is all about women giving themselves permission to purchase jewellery for themselves – they deserve it!” says WJA President Jacqueline Cassaway.

For 2021, WJA is offering March is Me Month assets to all its members – not just corporate members. “We had many requests from the general membership to use the marketing assets during our first year, as they recognised the value of the campaign,” says WJA Executive Director Jennifer Markas. “As a result, all materials

are available this year to individual members for a minimal fee.” WJA corporate members will once again receive the assets free of charge as a benefit of corporate membership.

All participants will have the flexibility to promote and sell their own products as part of the campaign. The WJA encourages users to utilise the branding, taglines and logos developed for the campaign by the Richline Group, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway.

The campaign’s hashtags include #MarchIsMeMonth, #CelebrateYou, #LiveBeautifully and #WomensJewelryAssociation.

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SAJN | BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

From side-hustle to main hustle

“THE MAJORITY OF entrepreneurs are driven by a particular passion or dream of owning their own business,” says Raw, founder of Ycagel, a marketing consulting and services firm and SkillX, an online skills incubator for entrepreneurs and professionals. “In fact, studies show that 30% start their side-hustle in a completely different industry from the one they work in full-time.

“The dream of being their own boss is a driving factor for many when it comes to striking out on their own, but the idea of starting a business from scratch without a safety net (financial or skills-wise) can prove overwhelming.”

As a thought leader and influencer in her markets, Raw is passionate about driving change and equipping people with the skills they need to grow successful businesses and brands.

What does one need to do to turn one’s side-hustle into a full-time business? Raw offers these helpful guidelines: 1. Treat it like a business, even when it is still a side-hustle: Approach claims that your “free” work could lead to bigger and better opportunities with caution. Giving away your time, energy and content free could interfere with your ability to earn a living. It could also devalue your brand and cause you to get early burn-out.

2. Put weekend plans and vacations on the back-burner (for now): If you are working

Sales and marketing strategist Jacqueline Raw shares seven tips to help entrepreneurs turn their side-hustles into a full-time success. full-time and running a side-hustle, you will need to use your weekends to grow your business.

3. Do not be in a rush to start your business: Make sure you have adequate time, money and skills. There are many short courses, coaches and mentors online sharing their insights and experiences with new entrepreneurs free of charge. Leverage these, lay a solid foundation for yourself and only when you have done the hard work, launch your new business.

4. Make a plan for financial stability: Manage your expenses from the get-go so that the fluctuation in income will not eat into the profits of your business when you take the leap. This is a key discipline in business ownership. Also, do not forget to make provision for the slow months.

5. You do not need to go it alone: Lean on your family and friends for support. Your inner circle are the tribe you will depend on when

things are tough, and the first people you will want to celebrate with when you achieve your goals. Those with whom you share your dreams and goals can make or break your entrepreneurial journey, so choose them wisely.

6. Manage your risk: Small business insurance is key when it comes to minimising your financial exposure if things go pear-shaped.

7. Mind-set matters: Being an entrepreneur is like waking up every morning and stepping into the ring with Mike Tyson. The knocks that will come are the only certainty in business, so you need to prepare yourself for them. No matter how many “no’s“ you get or how many times you fail, you have to have the grit to get up again and keep going.

“Anyone with passion, discipline and perseverance can work for themselves. It’s nowhere near as glamorous or straightforward as it looks, but the rewards are worth it for those who want to live life on their own terms. Dream big, work smart (and, yes, hard) and don’t quit,” says Raw.

Anyone with passion, discipline and perseverance can work for themselves. It’s nowhere near as glamorous or straightforward as it looks, but the rewards are worth it for those who want to live life on their own terms.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

DID YOU KNOW? | SAJN

Interesting facts 1

Compared with other metals, gold is much softer. One can beat 1 g of gold to a 1 m2 sheet and light would shine through that sheet.

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Lucy, the largest diamond in the known universe, would need a jeweller’s loupe the size of our sun to grade it.

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Various functionalities on watches such as water-resistance, moon phase and date display are known as complications. Watches can have multiple complications, such as divers' watches or pilot watches. However, dress watches have few or no complications other than simply telling the time.

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It is said that St Valentine wore a purple amethyst ring with an engraved Cupid so that Roman soldiers could recognise him and ask for his marriage officer services.

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On formal occasions, Queen Elizabeth wears the jewellery in her collection.

She owns more than 300 items of jewellery, including 98 brooches, 46 necklaces, 37 bracelets, 34 pairs of earrings, 15 rings, 14 watches and five pendants.

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In 1917, Pierre Cartier traded a double strand of natural pearls for a mansion on Fifth Avenue in New York City.

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There is no official quality grading system for coloured gemstones, so gemmologists choose to evaluate tanzanite in the same way as diamonds – by their clarity, colour, cut and carat weight. You may sometimes see tanzanite unofficially graded as A, AA, AAA and AAAA.

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The word ”necklace“ comes from the Latin word laqueus, which means ”noose“.

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If you put a diamond on your tongue, your tongue will start to get cooler because the diamond is the best conductor of heat, so it is as if the diamond sucks all the heat from your tongue.

• For your dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

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SAJN | 16 DAYS OF ACTIVISM

Give Her a Crown Renowned local jewellery designer and founder of Impilo Collection, Angela Yeung, was one of 16 artists who lent their voices and skills to create a bespoke crown which was showcased during the end of last year’s 16 Days of Activism.

“GIVE HER A CROWN IS A STORY-TELLING platform that harnesses the power of the arts to acknowledge, honour and celebrate the value of women in society,” explains Yeung, who was approached at the end of last year to create a crown for the cause. The 2020 Crown Collection was the first in a series of art-inspired collections that aimed to raise funds for the fight against gender-based violence.

All proceeds from the sales of artworks and donations will be used to impact schools across SA this year by providing a transformative educational programme that trains and empowers teachers to champion gender equality with their pupils.

Give Her a Crown, an initiative of the Change Collective Africa and empowered by Jaguar, partnered with prominent curators Teresa Lizamore and Phumzile Nombuso Twala. The 16 notable South African artists who each created a bespoke crown artwork (which was donated and exhibited during last

year’s 16 Days of Activism) were Simphiwe Buthelezi, James Delaney, Olwethu de Vos, Gordon Froud, Carlo Gibson and Dominique le Grange, Cow Mash, Collen Maswanganyi, Lebogang Mabusela, Lerato Motau, Lebohang Motaung, Haidee Nel, Dean Pozniak (Simon and Mary), Nkhensani Rihlampfu, Jo Roets, Usha Seejarim and Yeung. Each crown was inspired by a South African woman and activist who has used her work, voice and influence towards the empowerment of women.

Yeung’s crown was inspired by former Public

Protector of South Africa, Prof Thuli Madonsela.

“As a lifelong activist in social justice and human rights issues, Madonsela’s passion for justice has seen her contribute to the drafting of laws such as the Promotion of Equality and Prevention of Unfair Discrimination Act and the Recognition of Customary Marriages Act,” says Yeung. “She was the inspiration behind my creation called Feather in Your Crown.”

“At a time when the world and SA desperately need to focus on empowering, recognising and protecting women, #GiveHerACrown is

Give Her a Crown is a story-telling platform that harnesses the power of the arts to acknowledge, honour and celebrate the value of women in society. The 2020 Crown Collection was the first in a series of art-inspired collections that aimed to raise funds for the fight against gender-based violence.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

16 DAYS OF ACTIVISM | SAJN an ideal and much-needed activism platform which Jaguar is delighted to support,” says Irene Kakooza, Experiential Manager for Jaguar Land Rover South Africa and SubSaharan Africa. “On a global level, Jaguar has undertaken many projects to highlight the roles women play in the automotive value chain – from a lap of honour with female racing driver Aseel Al-Hamad to celebrate the lifting of the ban on women drivers in Saudi Arabia to launching campaigns designed to inspire talented female STEM students, to further careers in the industry. Here in SA, Jaguar is active in increasing female representation at all levels of varied problem-solving and creative solutions. From trainee technicians to retailer management roles and business executives, Jaguar and sister brand Land Rover Jaguar and #GiveHerACrown share an ethos of empowering women, as well as celebrating their fearless spirits. I speak on behalf of the brand when I say that we’re thrilled by the positive impact this platform creates and we’re honoured to play a part in it,” says Yeung.

SA artist and story-teller Zolani Mahola was chosen as the face and forerunner of the campaign. “All over the world, our stories are being challenged and we’re being called to not only reclaim our narratives, but intentionally craft ones that are to our highest benefit as individuals and as a species. #GiveHerACrown is essentially about acknowledging our connection to each other. We all come from women, the life-bearers who’re more often than not the rocks of their families.

Through this campaign and movements like it, we remind each other of the incredible wealth and strength that lie in feminine power. This power is fierce, gentle and must be nurtured if we’re to create the country and world of our highest dreams,” says Mahola.

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SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

e v lo g n i t a r Celeb

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine.

Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN RED ROSES, HEARTS AND ANYTHING romantic are symbols traditionally associated with St Valentine’s Day on 14 February, while sentimental practices associated with that date have been embellished over the centuries. The occasion is said to have originated in honour of a Roman priest – named Valentine, of course – who was martyred in around AD 496.

It is estimated that one billion Valentine’s Day cards are distributed every year; it is the largest seasonal card-sending occasion besides Christmas. Historical archives mention at least three individuals – though there might be more – thought to have been linked to this event, with some recognised by the Catholic Church. However, the best-known one is Valentine, a priest during the reign of Emperor Claudius II in the third century.

Believed to have engaged Rome in several unnecessary wars which cost the lives of thousands of soldiers, Claudius realised that many young men were reluctant to join the army because of their attachment to their wives and families. In order to sever such bonds, he cancelled all marriages and engagements within the city.

Despite this decree, Valentine secretly arranged marriages of young Roman couples. When his defiance was discovered, Claudius had him imprisoned, tortured and then executed on 14 February. After his death, he was raised to martyrdom and ultimately became the patron saint of love.

There is a belief that during Valentine’s incarceration, he became friendly with his jailer’s blind daughter, who periodically brought him notes and flowers from children in the vicinity, to which he responded when possible.

Days before his beheading, he prayed for her and she is said to have regained her sight. He also wrote a loving farewell note to her, signed: “From your Valentine” – popularly regarded as the first Valentine’s card ever sent.

An interesting theory is that Valentine may have worn a purple ring containing an amethyst, now usually worn on the finger of a Christian bishop. This would have been recognised by soldiers, who would ask Valentine to perform their marriage ceremonies. This association may be the reason an amethyst was named the birthstone of those born in February.

According to another tradition, Valentine tried to convert Claudius to Christianity and relinquish his pagan beliefs. Therefore, in the modern era, the Anglican Church holds a special service on

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2021

It is estimated that one billion Valentine’s Day cards are distributed every year; it is the largest seasonal card-sending occasion besides Christmas.

St Valentine’s Day, which includes the optional ritual of renewing marriage vows.

Valentine’s Day later spread throughout the Anglosphere and to countless other countries worldwide, with Eastern and Western ones having their own interpretations and specific customs for the occasion. During the 19th century, handwritten notes gave way to mass-produced greeting cards, creating an enormous business opportunity for Hallmark, for example. In the UK, it is estimated that about £1,3 billion is spent annually on cards, flowers, chocolates packed in heartshaped boxes and other gifts.

An estimated 25 million cards are sent in England alone.

Other symbols associated with Valentine’s Day include heart-shaped outlines, doves and figures of winged Cupids. Some believe the day has become overly commercialised, with consumers being encouraged to buy gifts for loved one. People in serious relationships would obviously include jewellery as these tokens.

Swiss watchmaker Giselle Rufer, President and CEO of Delance Watches for Women, says that her Valentine’s Day timepiece is one of the

preferred watches bought by men for the women in their lives. The designer’s main aim was to personalise the watch, which often includes diamonds and blue sapphires. Very often, such precious stones symbolise the births of a couple’s children. The Delance brand is over 25 years old.

French watch brand Michel Herbelin has also produced a version for Valentine’s Day and other Parisian jewellers have not missed the opportunity to exploit the possibilities.

There are many less elaborate, but equally romantic ways to celebrate Valentine’s Day with a spouse or partner, such as creating a home-made card, having a candlelit dinner, revisiting the place of a first date, doing the things that first sparked one’s romance, as well as filling the bedroom with the traditional red roses. The occasion is also ideal for proposing marriage – either dressed in one’s most seductive outfit (or in one’s birthday suit, if going the bubble bath route!).

South African couples are just as observant of this day for romance as those elsewhere in the world.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

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For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today!

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Address: The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg • Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN ARGENTUM RESOURCES Tel no: 011 608 0427 E-mail: info@silverchem.co.za Website: https://www.africanargentum.co.za/ AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com ANDRONIKIS MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 966 6647 E-mail: mstergiou1966@gmail.com ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com ASHLEY HEATHER JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 563 5086 E-mail: info@ashleyheather.co.za Website: www.ashleyheather.co.za ASIMI JEWELS INTERNATIONAL Tel no: 011 453 4775 E-mail: ellassa@iafrica.com ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8 E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/ BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/ BRADLEY MANUFACTURING T/A VARGA MANUFACTURING Tel no: 011 327 7926 E-mail: bradjew@mweb.co.za BRETTLANDS FINE JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com COLLEGE OF CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 464 3821 E-mail: calbrechts@cct.edu.za; eoosthuizen@cct.edu.za Website: http://www.cct.edu.za/ CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632 E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za CAROMBA MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 036 631 4565 E-mail: frank@caromba.co.za Website: http://www.caromba.co.za CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za CHANDLER’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693

DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DESIGN @ 50 Tel no: 010 442 9201 E-mail: edna@design50.co.za Website: http://www.gidz.co.za/projects/design50.html DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: https://www.designergold-el.co.za/ DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: http://www.christopherreid.co.za/ DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

DUDLEY’S JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 319 3226 E-mail: dudleysjewellers@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za

GC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 326 7919 E-mail: admin@thediamondring.co.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

E-DESIGN Tel no: 082 445 8295 E-mail: cornenaude@e-design.co.za Website: www.e-design.co.za EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com ERICA DU PLESSIS (ERICA STRAUSS) Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: eternity@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za HARRIS JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/ JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONNECTION Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za; info@thejeweller.co.za Website: www.thejeweller.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JEWELLERY DESIGN CONCEPTS Tel no: 083 709 7722 E-mail: sandm@polka.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURE & DESIGN Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JPPE LAPIDARY Tel no: 021 424 7764 E-mail: kylegilson@mweb.co.za JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/ K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

INFACET Tel no: 082 878 4949 E-mail: bridgette@infacet.co.za Website: www.infacet.co.za

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

JADE SOUTH AFRICA Tel no: 021 883 8974 E-mail: rhys@jade-sa.co.za Website: www.jade-sa.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com

JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LALI SILVER JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 646 8358 E-mail: jc_tilman@yahoo.com Website: www.lalisilver.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com

MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 645 9260 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

LEGA DORO CC Tel no: 011 450 3233 E-mail: legadoro@global.co.za; diamondafric@telkomsa.net Website: www.legadoro.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LEUVEN METALS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 426 4140 E-mail: kvessen@oroafrica.com; andrev@oroafrica.com Website: www.leuvenmetals.co.za

METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com MADE OF METTLE Tel no: 079 386 1079 E-mail: tracey@madeofmettle.co.za Website: www.madeofmettle.co.za MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/ MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879 E-mail: mambudesign@mweb.co.za; mambuorders@mweb.co.za MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMONDS STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/ PIERO G MANUFACTURING T/A PICO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 483 3442 E-mail: pico1@global.co.za Website: www.picojewellery.com

MIZANE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 485 3784 E-mail: mizane@ananzi.co.za Website: www.mizanejewellery.co.za

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

POLART JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 422 3848 E-mail: info@polart.co.za; polart@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.polart.co.za/home.html

NIGHT SHINE CANDY Tel no: 082 455 8973 E-mail: aleks@nightshinecandy.com Website: www.nightshinecandy.com

POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NOMAD JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES Tel no: 082 770 9788 E-mail: idieh@mweb.co.za; info@nomadjewelleryandaccessories.com Website: https://nomadjewelleryandaccessories.com/ NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com

PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/ RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

SILVER MYST – JULIANA RED Tel no: 021 762 9794 E-mail: moyonela@gmail.com

TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

SINCE NOW JEWELS Tel no: 072 336 9518 E-mail: sincenowcz@gmail.com

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za/

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/

RONALD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 701 5154 E-mail: ronaldcbr262@gmail.com

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za

RASIFIWA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 422 1350 E-mail: rssa@rasifiwa.com; jacqui@rasifiwa.com Website: www.rasifiwa.com

ROUX DU PREEZ DESIGNS Tel no: 084 207 3876 E-mail: sales@preezdesigns.co.za Website: www.preezdesigs.co.za RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SUSAN ROOS JUWELE Tel no: 028 754 2949 E-mail: info@roosjuwele.co.za Website: www.roosjuwele.co.za TCHALIEU JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 453 0492 E-mail: siphokazi.tchalieu@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/ THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za TURNER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 424 2528 E-mail: sam@turnerjewellers.com Website: http://www.turnerjewellers.com/ UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VALLABHJEE’S JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 032 944 1657 E-mail: hemval1@yahoo.co.uk VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za VUKANI UBUNTU COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS Tel no: 012 342 1385/8099 E-mail: demos@vukani.org; info@vukani.org Website: www.vukani.org WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

WHITE DIAMOND JEWELLERS Tel no: 035 789 5550 E-mail: whitediamondjewellers@telkomsa.net Website: www.telkomsa.net

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142 E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za

SILPLAT (PTY) LTD Tel no: 021 461 5344 E-mail: info@silplat.co.za Website: www.silplat.co.za

TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

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