SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • February 2019

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Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News FEBRUARY 2019

SA

CPM celebrates 25 years Sustainable creativity at VicenzaOro’s January edition The origins of horology Swiss exhibitors at Baselworld salute 2019 results

5-7 OCTOBER 2019 Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition

+27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 21. BASELWORLD 2019

8. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

• Novak Djokovic meets his greatest opponent, thanks to Seiko

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

Swiss exhibitors at Baselworld salute the results achieved for 2019

• IDE President Dvash cautiously optimistic about 2019 • De Beers Green-Lights disclosurerule changes

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• CIBJO Board of Directors approves newest Blue Book

Designer: Joanne Brook

• David Rossen passes away

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

• Synthetics threat will grow, says ABN Amro

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

23. INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

Sustainable creativity at VicenzaOro’s January edition

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

25. WATCHES The origins of horology

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

15. BRAND MANAGEMENT

Printing: Typo

• Out of this world • Zenith’s Defy Classic

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

18. DIAMONDS Synthetic diamonds

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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28. LITTLE GEMS A recognisable style

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News FEBRUARY 2019

SA

CPM celebrates 25 years Sustainable creativity at VicenzaOro’s January edition The origins of horology Swiss exhibitors at Baselworld salute 2019 results

On the cover Cape Precious Metals (CPM) is celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2019. Thousands of jewellers across southern Africa rely on CPM for a full range of quality goods and reliable services, backed up by expert product advice. As a RJC/COC-certified refinery, all CPM metals are ethically sourced. For more information, contact CPM on tel: (021) 551-2066 or visit: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

NEWS

NOVAK DJOKOVIC MEETS HIS GREATEST OPPONENT, THANKS TO SEIKO Novak Djokovic, top-ranked ATP star and Seiko watch brand ambassador, took time out of his training schedule to meet his most challenging opponent yet – himself. The world’s number one tennis star encountered a specially created avatar of himself, incorporated in a world-first virtual reality computer game.

Created especially by Seiko Australia, the lifelike game was developed to make playing on the court as authentic as possible, with even the feel of the racquet being realistic.

Leading up to the event, tennis enthusiasts battled it out at Melbourne’s Federation Square, playing the specially designed VR game, with the top four winners having the opportunity to meet Novak and receive a limited-edition Seiko Novak Djokovic watch.

The winner also received a US$1 000 cheque, courtesy of Seiko Australia.

In honour of the Novak Djokovic Foundation,

Novak presented each child on the stage with a special watch. He also spoke to the Melbourne crowd in a Q&A session.

“I play tennis for the pure emotion of love, joy and passion towards the sport and as long as there’s that flare in me, I’ll keep going,” he said.

“The match against Rafa Nadal that went on for six hours in the 2012 Australian Open was the one that stands out as the most exciting one I’ve ever played.

“I try to be conscious of my breathing while I’m playing because on the tennis court, you’re by yourself. You have your box you can turn to, to look for support, but everything you do on the court is completely up to you – both the blame and the credit. It’s important with all these distractions to really centre yourself by being aware of your breathing and staying in the moment. That’s much easier said than done.

“High stress is always a great obstacle

for anyone, which is why I believe the greatest support I and any other athlete – and, in fact, all human beings can get – is always from themselves. If you can master yourself and control your thoughts and emotions, you’ll be able to shine,” said Djokovic.

CIBJO BOARD OF DIRECTORS APPROVES NEWEST BLUE BOOK The Board of Directors of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has approved the first edition of the Responsible Sourcing Book, which provides a framework and guidance for due diligence related to the responsible sourcing of gemstones and precious metals in the jewellery sector. It becomes the latest in CIBJO’s Blue Book series of definitive industry guides for standards and nomenclature, joining the Blue Books for diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, precious coral, precious metals and gemmological laboratories.

The new Responsible Sourcing Book is the product of a year-long project, which included the creation of the CIBJO Responsible Sourcing Commission and a policy document that was presented at the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá in November. Before its release, it was subject to a rigorous internal and external review process that included experts from both the jewellery sector and the international community.

Recommending guidelines and procedures by which participants in the jewellery supply chain may undertake supply-chain due diligence to support responsible sourcing, the Responsible Sourcing Book is designed to serve as guidance for ethical business practices and supply-chain due-diligence systems in the jewellery sector. It is not a definitive code of practice in and of itself and cannot be described or interpreted as a compliance mechanism or chain of custody.

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Referencing the Organisation for Economic Co-operation & Development (OECD) Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, the Responsible Sourcing Book insists on compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and the World Diamond Council's System of Warranties for diamonds, and supports the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights. It recommends that all participants in the industry have a responsible sourcing policy in place and undertake due diligence on their supply chains to the best of their ability, to identify, assess and mitigate any identifiable risks in the jewellery supply chain related to human rights, labour practices, money laundering, financing of conflict and corruption.

To ensure product integrity, the Blue Book calls for precious metals and gem materials and products to be correctly represented and disclosed through their supply chains in accordance with the CIBJO Retailers’ Reference Guide or the relevant CIBJO Blue Books and recommends that grading reports and other types of product verification be provided as well.

“The philosophy that guided us in the creation of the Responsible Sourcing Book is that all participants in the jewellery business have a duty of care and should thus conduct supply chain due diligence to the best of their

ability,” explains Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO. “And while we support the principle of having responsible practices being verified and certified by standards and certification bodies which are referred to in the CIBJO guidance, we also recognise that, at any particular time, not every company has the capacity to do so.

The new Blue Book provides a set of universal guidelines that enable all members of the industry to demonstrate that they’re actively involved in defending the integrity of the supply chain, and that they strive to improve these efforts on a continuous basis.

“The Responsible Sourcing Book is intended to provide an essential structure for supply-chain due diligence in the jewellery business, in accordance with accepted practice and standards in the international community.

How individual companies choose to apply the standards and guidelines provided is up to them. Like all CIBJO Blue Books, it’s a living document which will be reviewed on a continuing basis, and amended and updated when necessary.”

The new CIBJO Responsible Sourcing Blue Book was presented to the industry by Responsible Sourcing Commission President Philip Olden at a seminar in Vicenza on 19 January. The seminar, which was held during the VicenzaOro January trade show, opened the symposium of the Federation for European Education in Gemmology.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

NEWS

DE BEERS GREENIDE PRESIDENT DVASH CAUTIOUSLY LIGHTS DISCLOSURE OPTIMISTIC ABOUT 2019 RULE CHANGES Israel’s net polished exports stabilised in 2018, cautiously optimistic about the future. I’m very De Beers has approved plans to allow sightholders to refer to its goods as “DTC diamonds”, a company spokesperson confirmed to Rapaport News recently.

The miner consulted with clients during the December sight in Botswana, proposing to relax its ban on buyers identifying diamonds as De Beers goods further down the supply chain.

Until now, sightholders could only disclose that their supply from De Beers came from one of four countries in which the company operates – Botswana, Canada, Namibia and SA. Under the new system, they still will not be able to use the “De Beers” name, since it is preserved for the Forevermark and De Beers Jewellers consumer brands.

The company intends to implement the changes during the first quarter, the spokesperson said. It will also launch DTC.com, a website dedicated to providing information about its mines and the provenance credentials of DTC diamonds. – Rapaport

totalling US$4,48 billion, according to figures published by the Diamond, Gemstones & Jewellery Administration of the Israeli Ministry of the Economy. Net polished diamond imports totalled US$3,04 billion, while net rough diamond exports stood at US$2,25 billion and net rough imports totalled US$2,66 billion.

“For the first time since 2011, in 2018 the Israeli diamond trade stabilised. While polished exports fell by 2,5%, imports of polished diamonds rose 4,1% and rough exports went up by 1,1%,” notes Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) President Yoram Dvash.

He adds that diamond exports in 2018 saw a slight increase, although due to changes in the method of measurement, the actual rise was not reflected in the data.

“After several very challenging years, we’ve begun to see early signs of recovery and we’re

glad that the decrease in polished exports has been stopped and indications are that our industry is headed for a better year in 2019,” said Dvash.

The USA is still the primary market for gross polished exports with 48% of the market, followed by Hong Kong (28%), Switzerland (8%), Belgium (7%), the UK (3%) and other countries (6%).

Danny Tal, Director of the Diamond, Gemstone & Jewelry Administration, says that during 2018, his office launched a comprehensive plan to support the Israeli diamond industry, including government-backed credit and marketing support to develop new markets and promote exports.

He added that in view of the challenges in the industry and stronger competition from abroad, the government has eased several regulatory policies.

F O R O N LY

R100 I N C LU D E S VA P O S TA G E T, & PA C K I N G !

Alice Weil A SPECIAL GIFT

My Notebook & Camera, launched at this year’s Jewellex Africa, is the fascinating biography of Alice Weil, an icon in the watch and jewellery industry (both locally and internationally) who has devoted over 30 years of her life to the industry after retiring from a career in the corporate sector.

Alice, who will be celebrating her 100th birthday in March, was born in Cape Town. She worked for Engelhard Industries as a Junior Executive – a company which dealt in precious metals (gold and platinum), as well as forestry and plastics – and remained with them for 10 years. She then started writing short articles for SABC Radio’s Short Stories from Near and Far. With encouragement from her family, Alice accepted a writing position with SA Jewellery News (then known as Diamond News & SA Jeweller) in 1986 at the age of 67.

Alice travelled internationally for many years to report on the latest news and developments in the jewellery and watch industries. Her monthly column, Little Gems, is also a favourite read in the magazine and delves into the exotic, exciting and glamorous world of jewellery, watches and gemstones.

Alice’s biography is a fascinating read and would make a great gift this holiday season.

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DAVID ROSSEN PASSES AWAY It was with great sadness that the local diamond and jewellery industry learnt of the passing of David Rossen.

Rossen, a fully qualified gemmologist (GIA diploma) and certified evaluator (GEMSA), travelled exclusively to clients’ homes or offices for valuations with a portable gemmological laboratory. He was also a jewellery designer and redesigner of antique and old jewellery.

“He was an exceptional gemmologist and evaluator and I used his skills quite extensively,” says Andreas Salver of Andreas Salver Manufacturing Jewellers. “We worked together a lot over the past 10 years and I often made jewellery for his clientele. He was highly respected and will be sorely missed.”

Rossen was a member of the jewellery industry for 35 years.

SYNTHETICS THREAT WILL GROW, SAYS ABN AMRO The impact of laboratory-grown diamonds on the industry will significantly increase in the next two years, according to ABN Amro.

“We think that 2019 and 2020 will be the years when lab-grown diamonds take off and move from an introduction phase to a growth phase,” Georgette Boele, Senior Precious Metals & Diamonds Analyst for the Dutch Bank, said in a recent report. “This will have serious consequences for the trade.”

Four main factors will lead to the growth of the synthetics market, she explained. As technology progresses, lab-grown diamond producers are able to create bigger, higher-quality stones, which could prove more attractive to consumers. Lower pricing will also push demand up, as will the perception of sustainability. Finally, De Beers’ launch of Lightbox, its line of lab-grown diamond jewellery, has made the category more acceptable.

While lab-grown diamonds have already created challenges for the small-stone trade, the problem is likely to spread to the largestone market as well, Boele predicted. Prices of large natural diamonds face threats from two sides: improved mining processes enable producers to find larger diamonds, creating the perception among consumers that they have become less rare. Additionally, improvements in synthetics technology have resulted in greater competition from large lab-grown stones.

There are three ways miners can increase their chances of surviving, Boele noted. They can speed up mining activity to cash in on the diamonds that are still under the ground before prices and demand fall. They can also stop searching for new mines, as high exploration costs are unlikely to be offset by any income from future sales of natural diamonds. Finally, miners can move into the lab-grown industry themselves, either on their own or by teaming up with lab-grown diamond producers.

“In a few years from now, it’s highly uncertain whether natural diamonds will hold their value, as has always been assumed,” added Boele. – Rapaport

FORMER GIA SA DIRECTOR TO ASSIST LOCAL DIAMOND INDUSTRY Les Milner, who served as Director of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) SA from February 2008-January 2018, will assist industry members with diamond grading, diamond grading training and insurance risk assessment from this year through Leslie Milner Consultancy.

Milner, a GIA diamond graduate, was employed by Africa Diamonds as a polisher from

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

1978-1981 and by the Jewellery Council of SA Laboratory as a Grader and then Director from 1981-2008 before joining GIA SA as its Director.

After parting ways with the GIA in 2018, Milner continued as an independent contractor for the GIA as a mine-to-market consultant. He also assisted with diamond grading, diamond grading training and insurance risk assessment in this capacity.

“I’m passionate about the diamond industry and am happy to still be a part of it after 41 years,” he says.

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SA Jewellery News among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

MANUFACTURERS

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DIAMOND DEALERS Best-selling diamond size

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0,5ct

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DEC 2018 VS DEC 2017

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

RETAILERS General sales compared with last year this time

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Foot traffic

Breakdown of retail sales

WHOLESALERS

bridal

67%

fine jewellery

19%

watches

General sales compared with last year this time

9%

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(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

Out of this world A technique dating back to the first manned orbit of the moon, in December 1968 – and one which was groundbreaking at the time – has been re-used by Omega to redefine an iconic design. It pays homage to a timepiece worn by every astronaut since the crew of Apollo 8, William Anders, Frank Borman and Jim Lovell – who had been given only a 50% chance of surviving their mission – returned safely to earth. On each of their wrists was an Omega Speedmaster.

The brand has now produced a new version entitled “Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8”, which features a dial and a movement depicting the lunar force.

Apollo 8’s crew declared that they were very honoured to be named “Men of the Year”

by Time magazine back then. Today, 50 years later, Omega is still proud of their bravery.

Omega’s “Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8” chronograph of this iconic timepiece evokes the mysteriousness and allure of space. The black ceramic 44,25 mm case is crafted from a single block of zircon oxide ceramic which is complemented by the polished surface and features a skeleton dial on which the hands and hour markers are white. It is mounted on a black nylon strap.

The movement features the brand’s powerful co-axial technology, which was first produced by English watchmaker George Daniels in around 1947. Nicholas Hayek, founder of the Swatch Group, acquired the knowledge of this technology for the brand, which was renowned for its history of innovation.

It is regarded as one of the major improvements in watch movements over the past century and consists of a balance roller carrying three pallets and an impulse pin at the transmission pinion. It involves the wheel tooth, which slides along the surface of the pallet. The Omega usage is used in conjunction with free-sprung balance. The timepiece can be adjusted by modifying the moment of inertia of the balance wheel, instead of repeatedly changing the active length of the hairspring – an easier task for watchmakers, and one which improves shock-resistance. It is an upgrade which has improved performance.

Zenith’s Defy Classic The Defy collection is the embodiment of Zenith’s horological complexity, including the iconic high-frequency Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab, the world’s most accurate mechanical watch, thanks to its monocrystalline silicon oscillator.

The Defy Classic is a threehands-plus-date watch with a sporty, brushed titanium case and an open-worked version of the automatic Elite 670 base calibre, with its silicon pallet lever and escape wheel.

The dial is bordered by a blue minute ring and large applied hour-markers coated with SuperLumiNova.

The cut-out date disc adds to the high-tech aesthetic exuded by the blackened, open-worked movement. Strap options include a titanium bracelet, black rubber with blue alligator leather coating or black rubber with a titanium folding clasp.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

Its mechanical automatic Elite 670 SK calibre operates at 28 800 vibrations per hour and features an oscillating weight with a satin-brushed finish. It has a 50-hour power reserve.

Its case is 41 mm in diameter and 10,75 mm thick. It is transparent sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and a sapphire crystal case-back and is water-resistant to 100 m.

Zenith is a brand that has been bringing style and substance to the wrists of watchmaking cognoscenti all over the world for more than 150 years. Founded in Le Locle in 1865 by visionary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot, the Manufacture Zenith gained swift recognition for the precision of its chronometers, for which it has won 2 333 chronometry prizes over its century-and-a-half existence: an absolute record.

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ADVERTORIAL

CPM celebrates 25 years Leading local refinery Cape Precious Metals (CPM) is celebrating 25 years in the jewellery industry this month and is happy to share its history, successes, business ethics and aspirations with SA Jewellery News.

Sharon Eades founded CPM on Valentine’s Day in 1994 in Cape Town. Armed with 15 years’ experience, her mission was to ensure that her company would operate within the most ethically responsible framework possible.

Back then, CPM consisted of three people, two of whom are still with the company. “We were a silver refining company, recovering metal from emulsified film and electroplating solutions,” says Sharon. “After just six months, we opened a branch in Port Elizabeth and two years later we opened our alloy division, which was our first exciting project towards becoming independent. We were previously buying our jewellery products from other suppliers like UniOro and we used to send our gold refining to Perkins Metals. We’ve since purchased both of those companies.”

Sharon’s approach has always been handson, with a special emphasis on the importance of listening closely to customers. Over the years, this has shifted CPM's focus to assisting manufacturing jewellers at every stage of the creative process through an extensive range of quality goods and reliable services.

Today, as a registered precious metal refinery, CPM specialises in the recycling of all precious metals, utilising modern techniques for maximum recovery and returns. “We refine all jewellers’ waste, including sweeps, filings, polishings, solutions, old jewellery solids and (the little-known) sludge. We also still recover silver from a wide variety of photographic material, including x-rays,” explains Sharon.

“It’s our goal to stock the largest range of high-quality, fair-value and up-to-date necessities for jewellers, including tools, cleaners, components, castings, findings and semi-finished products. We also offer CAD design, wax model and casting services, as well as in-house assay facilities.”

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Team CPM currently stands at 75 in-house staff members across four branches in Cape Town, Johannesburg, Durban and Port Elizabeth.

Integrity, dependability, transparency and an emphasis on professional development is what distinguished CPM from other companies.

“While these are definitely present separately in other companies in our industry, we believe that our balanced combination of these qualities is what keeps jewellers coming back,” says Sharon. “We adhere to a strict code of ethics and are Responsible Jewellery Councilcertified. With crime being such a threat to our industry and SA as a whole, we all need to take responsibility for being part of the solution.

CPM is proud that the chain-of-custody process ensures our metal is sourced legitimately.

“A successful refining business is built on trust and we take pains to educate our clients about best practices for getting the highestvalue returns and melting losses inherent in the process. Clients are also welcome to make an appointment to be present while we process their refining batches.”

CPM corporate culture embraces diversity, with a core internal focus on educating and training their staff. The company believes it’s vital to provide growth opportunities both within CPM and the industry as a whole. “We welcomed the JCSA’s Professional Technical

Skills Certificate initiative and are very proud to have assisted with the Refining Technician certification,” adds Sharon. “At the time of writing, employees at all four CPM branches have gone through the process. We’re just finalising a date for assessments and presentations at our Port Elizabeth office, but our current certificate count between our three other branches stands at 40.”

CPM prides itself on nurturing relationships and its team is on hand to offer technical assistance and product advice. “Some of our sales executives are jewellers who’ve left the trade and our experienced and committed management team, some of whom have been with CPM for 20 years, lead the search for new ways of providing exceptional service to our customers.

“Up-and-coming jewellers hold a special place in our hearts. CPM sponsors student awards and we play an advisory role to universities wanting to integrate pupils effectively into the trade. We see too many smart, hard-working jewellers unprepared for the struggles of running a business in a tightly regulated market and we’re working to change that.”

“Our industry will always be exciting and challenging,” says Sharon. “In the early years there were very few regulations and only 10 or so licensed refineries, compared with about 80 today. We now have Responsible Gold Audits with COC and KYC procedures, which are positive and necessary, but there’s a lot of red tape to navigate through the Mining Charter.

At least we no longer have to lug boxes of refining up the stairs of SAPS offices to be inspected and sealed closed with melted wax and a stamp!

“Local manufacturing jewellers have sadly been decimated to less than 25% of those trading 10 years ago. A very large percentage of jewellery sold in SA is now imported, which has drastically affected employment and is a huge concern. “ “I love working with people and seeing our staff and emerging jewellers grow in their own talents,” concludes Sharon. ”I really enjoy our clients and the relationships that have been built over the years. There are some real characters in our industry – once you’re in this sector, you’re in it forever! Doing business is fun, jewellers are easy to relate to and I enjoy the open communication with all in the industry and the challenge of the day-to-day activities and trading. Mostly I love seeing the results of CPM staff input and enthusiasm.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

DIAMONDS

GEM-QUALITY SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS, ALSO known as laboratory-grown diamonds, have been produced since the 1970s – but only became commercially available in the past five years. Today, they are more prevalent in commercial quantities and qualities, particularly as new producers continue to enter the market.

This has spurred great consumer interest and discussion in the trade about disclosure, detection and the role of these man-made diamonds in the industry. Similarly, there continues to be concern about the possibility of undisclosed colour and clarity treatments.

Detecting treatments and effectively differentiating laboratory-grown diamonds from natural diamonds are both vital to maintaining the public trust in gems and jewellery, particularly as prices for such stones decline.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has conducted extensive research into synthetic diamonds in the decades since they first appeared. Much of this research is published in the institute’s journal, Gems & Gemology, and is freely available at gia.edu.

Simply put, diamonds grown in a laboratory are diamonds. Although not identical to mined diamonds, they have essentially the same physical, chemical and optical properties as diamonds from the earth. The major difference is that natural diamonds are often a billion years old, sometimes as old as three billion, and are discovered through exploration and mining.

Laboratory-grown diamonds are created in a few days or weeks.

The very different origins of laboratorygrown diamonds result in differences that, although not visible even under magnification or detectable through other routine gemmological tests, leave distinctive indications that sophisticated instruments can pick up to distinguish them from natural diamonds. Gemmological laboratories such as the GIA are able to identify these diamonds.

“The vastly different conditions under which natural diamonds and synthetic diamonds form result in differences in their growth structure and in atomic level defects, so to say that they are identical is misleading,” says Tom Moses, Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory & Research Officer for the GIA. “If they were identical, we wouldn’t be able to tell them apart.”

Natural diamonds form deep within the earth as a crystallised form of carbon under tremendous heat and pressure and are carried

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Synthetic diamonds Russell Shor, GIA senior industry analyst, examines gem-quality synthetic diamonds and discussions around disclosure, detection and the role of these man-made diamonds in the industry.

to the surface by volcanic forces. Laboratorygrown diamonds are created by one of two different processes. One, the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method, mimics the natural forces of heat and pressure to form carbon crystals. This method was first announced by General Electric in 1955. The other method, chemical vapour deposition (CVD), passes energy through methane or other gases in a reactor to break down the gas molecules into carbon and hydrogen atoms.

The carbon atoms are attracted to a diamond wafer to form a new diamond crystal.

To help retailers and manufacturers identify laboratory-grown diamonds produced by either

method, the GIA developed instruments and services to screen stones submitted to it for grading. Every diamond submitted to the GIA for grading is screened to determine whether it is natural, laboratory-grown or treated.

Due to their small size and large numbers, melee-size diamonds present a particular challenge, as it is not cost-efficient to send each small stone to a laboratory for grading. To address this issue, the GIA developed the Melee Analysis Service to rapidly analyse parcels of polished melee diamonds, separating potential

(Right): The GIA Melee Analysis Service separates natural, untreated diamonds from simulants, laboratory-grown diamonds and HPHT treated natural diamonds, and sorts the screened diamonds by color range. Clients can also specify a size range for their parcel.

Once sorted, the melee will be sealed in secure packaging for shipment back to the submitting client.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

DIAMONDS

laboratory-grown diamonds and simulants, and sorting the resulting natural stones by colour range. The institute also introduced the GIA iD100, a small desktop instrument for use by jewellers and manufactures that can screen loose and mounted diamonds as small as ,005ct.

The place of laboratory-grown diamonds in the market is still being played out.

Will consumers accept them in the luxury and engagement markets? Will prices for laboratory-grown diamonds fall further? Will prices for natural diamonds rise? The GIA believes that laboratory-grown diamonds have a place in the market, as long as the fact that they are laboratory-grown is disclosed so that consumers know what they are buying.

As with laboratory-grown diamonds, it is very important that the characteristics of every treated diamond be fully disclosed at each stage of the value chain. Treatments to enhance a diamond’s colour or clarity continue to be used, with new variations.

While detection of known treatments is part of the GIA diamond grading process, combinations of treatments have become

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

area is observed. Both of these clarity treatments can be seen under magnification.

Colour treatments are often not detectable by standard gem-testing methods and generally require testing at an experienced gemmological laboratory. HPHT annealing is used to decolourise brown diamonds, while irradiation and sometimes heating are used to create a (Above): A composite image comparing a natural diamond ( left) range of treated colours. One of the most comto a laboratory grown diamond (right). Photo by Kevin Schumon encountered treatments in diamonds is macher © GIA. surface coating, where a thin film coating on more prevalent and pose a new challenge for the surface is used to alter colour appearance. gemmological laboratories.

Treated diamonds are much more common Clarity treatments are often visible when in the marketplace than laboratory-grown the diamond is examined with a microscope stones, but proper disclosure of each is critical. or loupe. Laser drilling allows the bleaching The GIA’s research centres employ experiof visible dark inclusions. In order to do this, enced scientists who have focused their attena straight open channel from the tion on the intricate world of gemmolsurface to the inclusion is creogy to make the GIA the global leader ated. Glass filling of surfacein gemmological research. Coupling reaching fractures reduces their advanced research with the detailed visibility, but often a “flash efexamination of tens of thousands of fect” of colours along the filled diamonds and coloured stones each month, the GIA leads the industry in (Right): The GIA iD100™ combines advanced spectroscopic detecting new gem materials – intechnology with GIA’s 60 years of diamond and gemstone identification cluding laboratory-grown ones – research to distinguish natural diamonds from laboratory-grown (HPHT and new gem treatments. and CVD) diamonds and diamond simulants.

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STAND OF THE YEAR This year’s Jewellex Africa Stand of the Year overall winner was awarded to Metal Concentrators (Stand Number E5) while Versitrade (Stand Number E6) was awarded the Standard Package winner.

Rowan Jacobson, Chairman of the Jewellex Africa committee, announced the winners at the show.

Published daily

A round table discussion on the subject of synthetic diamonds vs natural diamonds took place at 14h00 yesterday at the Metcon coffee shop. Ernie Blom of Blom Diamonds and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C and Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion while Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and Communications and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator.

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BASELWORLD 2019

Swiss exhibitors at Baselworld salute the results achieved for 2019 The Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee has applauded the move to co-ordinate SIHH and Baselworld dates as of 2020, saying this will benefit the entire Swiss watch industry and make the event more appealing to all.

THE SWISS EXHIBITORS’ COMMITTEE AND ALL the brands it represents recently thanked the Baselworld Management for the work undertaken and the many results already achieved.

New management, a new dynamic Michel Loris-Melikoff, the new Director of Baselworld, supported by the Swiss Exhibitors' Committee, is determined to give the show a complete makeover in 2019. Besides synchronising the dates of the world’s two largest watch fairs in 2020 (SIHH from 26-29 April and Baselworld from 30 April-5 May), other changes are on the agenda for this year’s edition.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

Baselworld – an experiential platform On a practical level, the show is rearranging the exhibition areas, resulting in a more compact event that will take place mainly in Halls 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 and 3, as well as a new press centre strategically located in the heart of the main hall, directly linked to the Central Plaza and its many restaurants. Then there is the new “Best of Les Ateliers” in Hall 1.0 (south), “The Loop” in Hall 1.1 with restaurants and lounge bar and “The Show Plaza” in Hall 1.2, with runway shows worthy of New York salons. These new options will offer friendly places to work, chat, eat, drink or simply have a good time.

Charter covering 75% of hotel capacity For 2019, a new partnership is being established with hotels in Basel and the surrounding area aimed at ensuring that room rates during the exhibition are not unfairly hiked and remain entirely transparent. Loris-Melikoff says 75% of these local establishments have signed an agreement on compliance with maximum rates. They thus become official partners of the event and will also no longer require any minimum length of stay.

Media a core concern The media is also at the heart of the changes undertaken by Baselworld’s management, which will provide numerous high-quality new workspaces, including a completely upgraded press centre in the middle of Hall 1.0. Not to be outdone, the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee will provide you with regular newsletters about developments among Swiss brands.

The Swiss Press Centre will be at the media’s service – within the main press centre – from 20-26 March 2019, notably to provide media representatives with a USB stick containing all the Swiss exhibitors’ press material.

A comprehensive report on this year’s Baselworld will appear in the May 2019 edition of SA Jewellery News.

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INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Sustainable creativity at VicenzaOro’s January edition VicenzaOro, the international jewellery show that gathers together the very best of the global gold and jewellery supply chain, organised by Italian Exhibition Group SpA (IEG), opened its doors on 19 January.

THE SECTOR’S FIRST MAIN EVENT OF THE year, VicenzaOro January, is Europe’s reference point and is considered an exclusive showcase for launching leading jewellery brands’ latest creations. A workshop of ideas for operators from all over the world, it offers a place in which to network and find both information and inspiration. Arranged into communities, exhibitors are divided according to their positioning and individual brand targets to make touring the show easier for retailers and visitors from the most prestigious boutiques, shopping malls and big city stores.

Over 60% of the buyers who visited the Vicenza Expo Centre halls during the fair’s six days came from 130 different countries.

Roberto Coin was once again in attendance and revealed new versions of his “Princess Flower” collection. Damiani presented extensions of its “D.Side”, “Eden” and iconic “Belle Époque”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

collections, while Fope, Crivelli, Leo Pizzo, Tamara Comollia and Djula were other top brands hosted in the Icon district for Global Brands. As companies which know how to blend artisanal tradition with contemporary style, they have become reference points for the sector.

Alessio Boschi, Alessa Jewelry and new entrants to the international scene such as Lydia Courteille and Monica Rich Kosann were among the top 12 designers selected to appear in The Design Room, the experimentation and creativity workshop which hosts the most exclusive and refined pieces at the event. This space offers the most futuristic journey in the universe of jewellery.

A novelty at VicenzaOro January was the Fashion Room, an elegant, modern space which hosted a selection of companies offering jewellery pieces which constituted striking style statements in their own right. Far more than mere accessories, these were innovative creations which were both aesthetic and functional masterpieces.

Category associations once again collaborated in organising congresses, conferences and seminars.

January is also the month when insiders look forward to the TGold event, the international show specifically for machinery and advanced technologies aimed at increasing the quality of jewellery design and production. This is where exceptionally innovative companies like the world-famous Legor Group Spa, Sisma Spa, Fasti Industriale Spa, Busch & Co, Gmbh&Co Kg and Koras Gmbh showcase their latest products.

The recurrent theme of the winter VicenzaOro event was sustainable creativity, starting with the Visio.Next conference and continuing to digital talks, gem talks and Trendvision’s presentation. With interesting and current content for the whole industry that sees traceability and sustainability playing an increasingly central role in relations with new consumers, sustainable creativity was illustrated in every aspect throughout the supply chain.

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WATCHES

The origins of horology

TIMEKEEPING ORIGINATED with the clock, but not as we know it now. There were different ways to mark the passage of time, involving an ingenious arrangement of wheels, pivots and levers of the mechanical clock that measured and charted the passage of hours.

There was the water clock and hourglass. The former measured the flow of water (or sand) in a specific period, but was hampered by damp or ice. Then came the sundial, which functioned by casting a shadow, but was erratic, as it depended on good weather.

The first mechanical clock appeared at the end of the 13th century in Europe – probably in Florence, which was one of the most flourishing cities during that period. The first timekeepers, as we know them, were driven by the motive force

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – FEBRUARY 2019

The cradles of timekeepers are located in many countries and involved many innovators, each of whom added to the history of horology and its development, writes Alice Weil. of gravity: the various gear wheels were turned by falling weights. A large clock was being constructed in a church in Italy and marked the hours from one to 24 by striking them the relevant number of times.

The masterpiece of medieval timekeeping was constructed in 1344 by a doctor born in Padua who was also an astronomer and mathematician. It was an astronomical clock which took 16 years to create. It had seven dials which indicated

hours and minutes, showed the month and day, the movements of the sun and moon, Mars, Mercury, Venus, Jupiter and Saturn. It also had a perpetual religious calendar. It was weight-driven, had 86 wheels and 560 parts of brass and bronze. It is the only clock of medieval times which has survived.

The most famous of all public clocks is the Duomo in St Mark’s Square in Venice, on which two Moors have struck the hours since 1496. This, too, is an astronomical clock and has been a tourist attraction for centuries. A renowned goldsmith of that era is believed to

25

WATCHES

have constructed various spring clocks based on the Duomo.

Research suggests that artist and inventor Leonardo da Vinci was another contributor to the development of horology. What is certain, however, is that the foundations of precision horology were laid by astronomer Galileo Galilei in the Duomo of Pisa.

Dutch scientist Christian Huygens of The Hague built the first pendulum clock in 1656, which made timekeeping far more accurate than it had ever been. It made the greatest improvement from 15 minutes per day (typical of the verge escapement) with a reduction in variation from 10 to 15 seconds. Huygens’ pendulum involved a weight as its timekeeping element which swung back and forth at precise time intervals and resisted swinging at any other rate. The concept soon spread into widespread use and these clocks are now collected for their decorative and antique value.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, the pendulum gained variations in accuracy of a few seconds per week, which was acceptable.

After Columbus discovered America in 1492, a slew of sea voyages was undertaken to other new lands. The problem experienced by these mariners was establishing an accurate assessment of their ships’ latitude and longitude position. The pendulum clocks which appeared a century later were useful to sailors, but had a serious drawback: they could not maintain a regular swing when subjected to a ships’ movement. A competition was duly launched offering a prize to any inventor, scientist or astronomer who could solve the problem. The winner was English clockmaker John Harrison, whose invention changed the course of timekeeping. He produced a complex clock which resembled a very large pocket watch (it was 13 cm in diameter). Kept

in a wooden box, resting on a cushion, this travelled on board a ship bound for Jamaica.

After 11 or 12 weeks at sea (equivalent to half a degree), the clock had lost only five seconds.

Further trials confirmed its accuracy and Harrison’s clock was used on the infamous HMS Bounty, captained by Edward Bligh, whose crew mutineered during a voyage to the South Pacific and put him and a handful of others adrift on a small boat, with very little water or food and no instruments, to sink or swim.

(Miraculously, Bligh – who, despite his sadistic, tyrannical nature, was a superb navigator – found his way to England with no instruments or adequate provisions and brought the boat and all his companions to safety.)

Today Harrison’s chronometer has place of honour in London’s Greenwich Maritime Museum.

Over the following centuries, innovation and ingenuity in timekeeping spread throughout Europe, notably in Germany, Holland and Switzerland.

The pendulum clocks which appeared a century later were useful to sailors, but had a serious drawback: they could not maintain a regular swing when subjected to a ships' movement.

A competition was duly launched offering a prize to any inventor, scientist or astronomer who could solve the problem. The winner was English clockmaker John Harrison, whose invention changed the course of timekeeping.

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LITTLE GEMS

A recognisable style An artistic movement which was popular between 1850 and the early 20th century was Art Nouveau (French for “New Art”), characterised by organic shapes. Stylish and decorative, it swept across Europe and North America.

Alice Weil explores it.

ART NOUVEAU BEGAN IN England as the antithesis of the former Edwardian style and a reaction to the sombre, conservative, hyper-sentimentality of the Victorian era and the industrialisation affecting design in the late 19th century, which included mass production in consumer goods. Contact with Asia (particularly China and Japan) was also a contributing factor, as was the rise of Impressionism in fine art, particularly the work of Paul Gauguin and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

The movement was characterised by sinuous, curving lines in a naturalistic way and undulating asymmetry. The architecture of that period, in particular, reflects the synthesis between ornamentation and functional

28

structure, with a combination of materials such as iron, glass, ceramic and bricks, which were deliberately opposed to traditional architectural values.

Art Nouveau reached its height at the end of World War I and the two decades of peace which followed. It is easily recognisable, with its focus on craftsmanship and refined techniques such as enamelling.

Prominent jewellers of that period included René Lalique (a collection of his can be seen in Lisbon’s Gulbekian Gulbekian Museum), Louis Comfort Tiffany (whose characteristic style of lampshades is still relevant) and Peter Carl Fabergé. They incorporated materials such as baroque pearls and their high-end jewels depicted fantasy, myths (especially dragons) and themes from nature, enhanced by the organic curves of their designs. Insects, plants, flowers and landscapes were sources of inspiration and a variety of colours was used, especially muted greens, browns, yellows and blues.

The gems used included lesser-known moonstones and opals with ever-changing hues. Organic elements included amber, pearl and iron. As the new movement flourished, women (and men) who had previously been unable to show bare skin (especially during the repressive Victorian years), revealed more of their bodies. Women, encouraged by the suffragette movement, demanded more freedom and the right to make alternative choices.

This new attitude was reflected in Art Nouveau, which exposed the curves of the female

body and depicted women with long, flowing, wavy, sensuous hair.

The movement generated decorative and graphic arts throughout Europe. In Germany, it was known as Jugensttil, in Austria as Stile Florale, in Italy as Jugendstil and in Spain as Modernista, while in England, it was first developed as the “Glasgow style”.

Other well-known exponents of the Art Nouveau style were Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh, who specialised in predominantly geometric lines and influenced the Austrian S2zessiohstil, Belgian architects Henri van de Velde and Victor Horte, Czechoslovakian graphic designer-artist Alphonse Mucha and American architect Louis Henry Sullivan. Spanish architect and sculptor Antonio Gaudi was regarded as the most original artist of the movement, transforming buildings into curving, brightly coloured, organic constructions.

After 1950 Art Nouveau appeared oldfashioned and limited, leading to its gradual decline. However, it was revived by the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 1959 and the Musée Nationale d’Art Modern in Paris the following year. A large-scale retrospective was held in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which rehabilitated the status of the movement. And in the late Sixties, when Pop Art offered a new, psychedelic style in typography and fabrics (typified by designers like Mary Quant), the movement’s flowery, organic lines again rose to the fore.

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