SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • January 2017

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JANUARY 2017

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Looking at the year ahead Staff training doesn’t work – or does it?

International fair calendar Make a date for 2017

For more information please contact: Mr. Sean Kearns • Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy T: +27 (0)12 342 0835 • E: svkearns@thaiembassy.co.za

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Linda Stock Cell: 081-065-7322 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents

Advertising Sales: Lance Peterson Cell: 062-391-5156 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

16. JEWELLERY DESIGN

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

6. NEWS

Jewellery for women, by women

• Two South African diamond mines for sale

19. JEWELLERY

• Jeweller’s permits: sole prop, CC and Pty

Looking at the year ahead

• IDE invites diamond technology companies to take part in International Diamond Week

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

• GIA’s annual board and research meetings bring together international experts

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

• Cameroon enabling CAR conflict diamonds: NGO

21. BRAND HISTORY A technical challenge

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

22. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Bigger and better • Tudor: three times a winner

12. TRAINING

• Selected for an honour

Staff training doesn’t work – or does it?

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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15. INTERNATIONAL FAIR CALENDAR

24. LITTLE GEMS

Make a date for 2017

Seeing red

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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

JANUARY 2017

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

• Greco Genève releases its LTM22

The industry's only trade journal

Looking at the year ahead Staff training doesn’t work – or does it?

International fair calendar Make a date for 2017

On the cover Richline Brand’s mission is to create, market and distribute proprietary, visual, emotional, fashionable and cultural products in collaboration with key retail partners to stimulate mutual growth. Contact Richline South Africa on tel: (011) 418-1600.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

NEWS

INHORGENTA MUNICH 2017: WOODEN WATCHES ON THE RISE Besides jewellery, watches will take centre stage again at Inhorgenta Munich 2017, which is scheduled to take place from 18-21 February. For the first time ever, the history of watches will be presented in Hall A1 “Timepieces”, which also offers a glimpse into the future of timekeeping devices. One thing is already clear for the forthcoming trade show: wooden watches are on the rise.

Wooden timepieces have become a real trend. Here, the notion of “timepieces” does

not refer to clocks hanging on walls, but to wristwatches made from wood. The relatively young entrepreneurs Kerbholz, Laimer, Avatar, Tense and Stadtholz will be among the exhibitors at Inhorgenta Munich 2017. Exhibition Director Stefanie Mändlein says: “These watches combine sustainability with a modern lifestyle, while being ultra-light. For two or three years we’ve been observing that demand in this segment is steadily on the rise. We’re happy to be able to offer a platform for these special

watches at Inhorgenta Munich 2017.”

Well-known watch brand Fossil will be back in Munich with an exhibition space of its own. Complete newcomers will be Victorinox, Traser H3 and Doxa. Furthermore, TT Trendtime with the brands Guess, Daniel Wellington and Ice Watch will strongly enlarge its presentation space.

“We see this as affirmation that we’re on the right track with our trade show concept,” says Mändlein.

JEWELLER’S PERMITS: SOLE PROPERTY, CC AND PTY The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) has released a statement addressing the issue of manufacturers in the industry who have jeweller’s permits in their personal name and who pay or invoice in the name of their CC or Pty entity.

“Metal Concentrators has followed this matter up with its attorneys, who are of the opinion that an individual with a jeweller’s permit can only transact in his/her name or sole proprietorship,” explaind Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO. “Should he or she transact in the

Pty or CC entity, then they transgress the Precious Metals Act. Of course, if their jeweller’s permit is in the name of a Pty or CC, there’s no problem.”

Jewellery manufacturers can contact the JCSA at e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za for a copy of Metal Concentrators’ attorneys’ legal opinion and the South African Diamonds & Precious Metals Regulator on tel: (011) 223-0000, should a manufacturer wish to change his/her personal name to a Pty or CC.

DIAMOND TECHNOLOGY COMPANIES INVITED TO TAKE PART IN INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND WEEK The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) has invited diamond technology companies around the world to exhibit at DiamTech, which will take place during the International Diamond Week (IDWI) from 13-16 February 2017. As in past years, at DiamTech, technology companies and high-tech service providers will be able to present their latest innovations in diamond manufacturing, computerised decision-making systems, diamond-scanning and imaging, e-commerce technologies and more, in a special location adjacent to the IDE trading floor.

Israel is renowned as the leader in technological innovations for the diamond industry, having introduced to the diamond world the use of laser in diamond-cutting, the Sarine and OGI systems, for example.

IDE President Yoram Dvash stresses the importance of technology in the Israeli diamond industry. “Israel’s added value in cutting-edge technology is a great advantage to our industry. Most of the significant technological innovations in the diamond industry worldwide originated in Israel. Today, new and exciting technologies are being introduced which reflect the changes that have taken place within the industry. We want to display these innovations to the large audience we expect at the IDWI,” he says.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

From jeweled birds to priceless information, CEO of Dhamani Jewels Group and GIA board member

AMIT DHAMANI

talks about

capturing the high-end consumer.

Is that a hawk? A falcon, the national bird of the United Arab Emirates. 10,000 gems, 500 carats. People come from all over to see it.

How does a Jaipur jewel business become a Dubai luxury brand? We looked beyond where we were. Markets change. Clients change. You can’t predict. But you can position yourself.

What was your tipping point? We let go of generic jewelry business ideas and took a high-end approach. Which is also a very global approach.

Sell an experience rather than just selling a product.

Who is the new fine jewelry customer? Think highly mobile, connected and curious. And they don’t always come in with something specific in mind.

So what motivates them? Information. The more you offer, the more they engage. Every month, we hold classes in diamond education, the 4Cs and GIA grading.

Why GIA? Dubai has many nationalities. The global consumer is everyone. Familiarity with GIA crosses many different markets and countries.

Do GIA grading reports influence a purchase? GIA reports represent transparency and assurance. I think we’re a success in the region because the biggest question in a customer’s mind is already answered when they walk in our door.

Parting insight on the high-end consumer? It starts with a connection. GIA gives retailers an amazing tool. With gem quality established, you’re free to talk about design, artistry or the occasion being celebrated. That’s when the magic happens.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

NEWS

CAMEROON ENABLING CAR CONFLICT DIAMONDS: NGO Conflict diamonds from the Central African Republic (CAR) are entering the supply chain because of poor prevention controls, non-governmental group Partnership Africa Canada (PAC) alleges.

Rough stones are being smuggled across the border into Cameroon and adjudged conflict-free after they receive Kimberley Process (KP) certificates, enabling them to then be exported to international markets, PAC claims.

Interviews with miners, traders and exporters show how diamonds are being smuggled across the CAR’s 900 km border with Cameroon, says PAC, alleging corruption among officials. Large shipments of embargoed, conflict diamonds pass through Cameroon’s transit hubs undeclared, it asserts.

PAC blames Cameroon for failing to implement KP guidelines which are intended to prevent the export of diamonds used to fund rebel wars. The report, From Conflict to Illicit, comes on the eve of a KP review visit to Cameroon to assess the country’s implementation of its guidelines.

“While an international outcry about ‘blood diamonds’ financing war in the CAR sparked action to stop the trade, the same spotlight hasn’t been turned on the CAR’s neighbours,” says Joanne Lebert, PAC’s Executive Director.

“Our investigation shows the reality on the ground and how conflict diamonds from the CAR still have entry points to international markets through Cameroon.”

The KP suspended the CAR in 2013, meaning it was banned from exporting rough diamonds,

after rebels took over the nation’s governance.

Certain regions of the CAR were declared compliant and re-admitted in 2016 so that the country can ship a limited volume of diamonds.

Ahmed Bin Sulayem, the United Arab Emirates-based Chair of the KP for 2016, says the monitoring team overseeing exports from the CAR has been probing the issue for several months, adding that PAC is part of that investigative team. A concrete push is needed to establish workable structures to manage these issues in a sustainable way, he argues.

“As the PAC study correctly notes, the actual rough diamond production of Cameroon is extremely small – 250ct per month, on average, over the past three years,” Bin Sulayem continues. “The larger picture is, of course, the illicit trade coming from the CAR. ”When we consider that one out of four people in the CAR lives directly or indirectly from mining diamonds, we must ensure that we aren’t inhibiting or starving a population by making rules, procedures and guidelines that will prevent them entirely from being economically active,” says Bin Sulayem. – Rapaport

E.G.L. COLLEGE OF GEMMOLOGY E.G.L. South Africa has been offering diamond grading courses since 1983. Due to the high demand for training in the diamond sector, E.G.L. South Africa made the decision to formally establish the E.G.L. South Africa College of gemmology to provide training for the jewellers and their staff, the gem dealers and the public.

The courses currently on offer are: • Diamond and Diamond Grading • Polished Diamond for the Retail Jeweller • Introduction to Tanzanite • Essentials of Coloured Stones FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR ENQUIRIES EMAIL: college@egl.co.za

ADDRESS: 1st Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Bedfordview, Gauteng, South Africa TEL: +27 11 334 4527 • FAX: +27 11 334 2193 • EMAIL: infojhb@egl.co.za E.G.L. SOUTH AFRICA IS A MEMBER OF THE DIAMOND DEALERS CLUB OF SOUTH AFRICA AND THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA

www.egl.co.za

GIA’S ANNUAL MEETINGS ATTRACT INTERNATIONAL EXPERTS GIA’s Board of Governors inducted Dr Barbara Dutrow, PhD, Adolphe G Gueymard Professor of Geology at Louisiana State University and Stephen Kahler, Senior Vice-President of Global Sales Operations for Swarovski Gemstones, as its newest members during its board meeting held at the end of last year at the institute’s Carlsbad headquarters.

Dione Kenyon, recently-retired President and CEO of the Jewelers Board of Trade, was elected Chair of the GIA Board of Governors, seceding John Green, President and CEO of Lux Bond & Green jewelers, who remains on the board.

Aron Suna and Hank Siegel, who retired from the board during the annual meeting, were honoured for their years of dedicated service. Glenn Nord, former President of the GIA and a member of the board since 1983, was named Governor Emeritus.

The week prior to the board meeting, nearly 60 experts from across the globe gathered for the institute’s 10th annual research meeting. Attendees of the three-day meeting included GIA staff involved in research (22 with doctoral degrees), consulting scientists, fellows from the Richard T Liddicoat Post-Doctoral Research Fellowship programme and GIA governors and executives. The researchers reviewed topics including developments in instrumentation, advancements in detecting diamond treatments and synthetics, origin determination of coloured gemstones and pearl structures. “The remarkable work

of this research team is directly incorporated into the GIA’s laboratory services and education programmes. We’re very grateful for the many breakthroughs they’ve made in the study of gems and minerals,” said Susan Jacques, the GIA’s President and CEO. Dutrow is widely recognised for her innovations in teaching mineralogy and co-authoring a best-selling mineralogy textbook. Her research focuses on mineralogy, petrology, geochemistry and computational modelling and visualisation. A fellow of the Geological Society of America and the Mineralogical Society of America, Dutrow has published extensively in scientific journals.

Kahler joined Swarovski in 1993 and has held positions of increasing responsibility in the management and sales of synthetic and natural coloured stones. He holds a BA from the University of Wisconsin – Madison and has completed the programme for management development at Harvard Business School.

Aron Suna, President of Suna Bros, Inc and Hank Siegel, President and CEO of Hamilton Jewelers, each spent eight years serving the GIA Board of Governors. Their commitment and dedication to the institute were recognised during the board meeting.

Together with 14 other Governors, Dutrow and Kahler will be instrumental in guiding the GIA in its mission to protect the public trust in gems and jewellery through research, education and laboratory services.

DE BEERS EXPANDS SURAT GRADING CENTRE De Beers plans to expand its diamond grading facility in Surat, India, as the company increases the services it offers at the facility.

The International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR), a subsidiary of De

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

Beers, says it will invest US$5 million to enhance the centre, adding 929 m2 to its existing 1 394 m2 of floor space. That is in addition to an initial US$10 million it invested to establish the facility in 2015.

The expansion includes enlarging its melee testing service and launching a new melee grading service next year. De Beers will also unveil a new educational service, which will include courses in polished diamond grading, diamond foundation and synthetics. The programme is scheduled to start in the second quarter of 2017.

“Through the IIDGR, De Beers is investing in innovations to ensure India maintains its position as a global diamond hub, as well as ensuring that the sector has the skills and tools to meet the challenges of tomorrow,” says Jonathan Kendall, President of the IIDGR. – Rapaport

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE: Jewellery and gemstone appraisals Certification of all coloured stones Gem identification of all gemstones Courses and lectures from intro to advanced Forensic analysis

Contact us for further information: Tel: 021 761 1746 Email: jeremy@gemlab.co.za Physical Address: 8 Penrith Road, Kenilworth, Cape Town Postal Address: Postnet Suite 197, Private Bag X16, Constantia, Cape Town, 7848

www.gemlab.co.za

2017 PRESIDENTS MEETING KICKS OFF WFDB’S 70TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS

South Africa’s leading jewellery training provider

Imfundiso Skills Development (ISD) is a non-government organization (NGO) incorporated under Section 21 of Companies Acts, established in 2001 (registration number 2001/010787/08).

Imfundiso means ‘to teach’.

When you teach you are empowering someone to take their future into their own hands.

ISD offers a two year jewellery desing and manufacturing training course accredited by the Mining Qualifications Authority. The Tshwane University of Technology and other industry related organizations offer assistance in course evaluation and jewellery experience.

HEAD OFFICE CONTACT DETAILS: No 8 Oak Avenue, Cullinan Diamond Mine P.O.Box 44, Cullinan 1000

The 2017 Presidents Meeting, the biennial gathering of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA), will take place in Mumbai from 5-8 February 2017. The Presidents Meeting starts off the WFDB’s year of celebrations for its 70th anniversary and will also feature a major Diamond Financing Seminar and Roundtable.

The financing summit aims to be the most comprehensive on the topic ever held, with banking and finance experts from around the world and a broad range of industry stakeholders invited to take part. “We stress that this isn’t just another meeting to discuss these issues which are so vital to the future of our trade,” says WFDB President Ernie Blom.

“With banks facing higher capital requirements, risk aversion and increased regulatory burden, the financing they make available to diamantaires has fallen significantly in recent years. The reduced liquidity available to diamond companies has led to significantly reduced operational flexibility and increased vulnerability to market movements.

“The seminar will look at the specific reasons for the lack of financing available and why current solutions haven’t been fully successful.

We’ll be reaching out to additional financing institutions, exploring alternative financing tech-

niques and investigating how these could bring extra liquidity to the diamond trade, which is so badly needed. We want to establish a regular dialogue between banks and other liquidity providers to develop liquidity solutions for the diamond industry and create a financing task force to drive forward solutions. We aim to create online education courses which are accessible to all members of WFDB-affiliated diamond exchanges and roundtable discussions to be held in all the leading diamond centres.

“We want to address the issue of financing in an unprecedented way and believe it’s critical that members of all trade bodies attend. We regard this seminar as so important that we’ve decided to start with WFDB committee meetings on Sunday, 5 February, with the financing seminar running across the 5th and 6th and continue our meetings through 7 and 8 February.

“I’d like to thank the Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, which is co-hosting the finance seminar, for its support,” adds Blom.

TWO SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMOND MINES FOR SALE Rockwell Diamonds has put two of its diamond assets on the selling block in an attempt to lift the company out of its difficult situation.

The junior miner said it started a process to sell the Remhoogte/Holsloot and Saxendrift mines in SA as part of a plan to streamline its operations by selling non-core assets. The miner had previously confirmed it was considering offers for some of its assets, but did not provide details.

The turnaround plan includes measures to accelerate production at the Wouterspan mine to full volume of 200 000 m3 of ore per month.

A plan to move its Holsloot processing plant to Wouterspan North will also increase monthly output by 60 000 m3.

The announcement comes after a strategic review that followed disappointing results, with the company recording a loss in the second fiscal quarter as sales slumped 36%. Chief Executive Officer James Campbell resigned in September and his successor, Tjaart Willemse, raised an alarm by saying he had inherited a business in a “state of despair”.

The review found the Remhoogte mine had been performing “below plan” and the construction of a new plant at Wouterspan was behind schedule and over budget. Production at Saxendrift was suspended in September because of “depletion of economic resources”, the miner said in October.

Rockwell’s board approved the plan for a business repositioning on 20 November, with the company saying it had secured U$8 million of additional funding on similar terms to its existing loans. – Rapaport

Tel: (012) 734 0245 • Fax: (012) 734 2846

10 Email: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

JSGEMS

address: suite 420b, sa diamond centre, 225 main street, jhb, south africa

specialising in hand calibrated smalls we stock a wide variety of certified diamonds

tel: 011 334 7657 mobile: 082 498 6159 email: janine@jsgems.co.za

TRAINING

Staff training doesn’t work – or does it?

Anna-Mart Rossouw, owner and founder of Paramount Consulting, the official training partner to the Jewellery Council of SA, shares a few of her staff training secrets with SAJN. LET’S FACE IT, WE ARE ALL AWARE OF solutions to problems that actually work: if you are fat, eat less and exercise more; if you need to unwind, get a hobby; if you have wrinkles, go for botox. Voila – fixed! Even better than the satisfaction of having solved the problem is the fact that everyone notices the difference and you directly benefit from the change.

I have been in the jewellery industry for the past 13 years and have worked with a plethora of retail jewellers. Although no two companies are alike, I was surprised to find that retailers’ perceptions of staff training are exceptionally similar. They include: • A costly exercise that yields no results.

• A huge inconvenience, with members of staff being out of the store, off the selling floor and therefore unproductive for an average of two days at a time.

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• A demotivating experi ence for staff members – a business practice that the boss seems to think is a good idea, but that makes sales consultants resentful for their efforts not being appreciated or acknowledged by top management.

• Often, still more useless information is crammed down their throats or they are exposed to yet another sales process that results in more confusion about what the company’s sales training policy and customer service methodology actually are.

• The most common complaint from businessowners is that there seems to be zero return on their investment.

This is all quite hard to hear, especially if that is what one’s entire business is based on – developing and empowering consultants to enrich their companies and themselves from the training they receive.

I therefore earnestly sought to understand what the essence of the issue was and how to resolve it so that my vision for the training I create and present could be realised.

Luckily, all is not lost and there is indeed a solution. The moment I started to understand the problems and not just the symptoms of

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

TRAINING

improving the turnover and profitability of the store – for example, if they work on a commission basis, show them ac tual calculations of how their earnings would increase. v. Sell the trainer to them by ensuring that they understand his/her credentials and expertise and explain how he/she has benefited other companies. vi. Put their minds at ease about the modus operandi of the trainer – it will not be a session where they will be grilled, called out or ridiculed.

the issues, I could understand how to turn them all around and make training all I ever wanted it to be.

I would like to share a few of my secrets with you.

1. As the boss, it is your job to: a. Determine the training your staff would most benefit from. For training to be a success, it needs to be extremely relevant to the out comes your business wishes to achieve, while simultaneously addressing the needs of the staff and equipping and empowering them to affect your company’s outcomes. b. Sell the training to your staff. No consult ant enjoys training in a place that is out of their comfort zone and where people are being forced to learn new techniques from a “professional” with no credentials. It is

therefore your job to prepare the soil, so to speak. I suggest doing the following: i. Tell them, first and foremost, that you will be attending the training with them.

This way, they are not the problem: in stead, the entire team, including you, would like to grow and increase the ben efit of working for this company. ii. Get buy-in from your team as to why training would be beneficial to all of you. iii. What KPIs are the employees striving to improve? How can the training help do that? Think of staff incentives that you would be willing to introduce – for exam ple, R1 000 for the person whose conver sion rate increases most within the first month after training. iv. Show them the sustainable benefits of

For training to be a success, it needs to be extremely relevant to the outcomes your business wishes to achieve, while simultaneously addressing the needs of the staff and equipping and empowering them to affect your company’s outcomes.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

2. Training is not botox. Nor does it succeed in a vacuum. You need to create a culture conducive to learning and continuous de velopment. Think about which structures you need to put in place before training starts to ensure the success of the material and – above all – to achieve the desired KPI improvements. An example of such a struc ture would be weekly training meetings with your staff.

3. Create a culture of accountability. It is im possible for you to be everywhere all the time. By creating a culture where employees take personal responsibility for their own performance, as well as those of their team mates, you are able to achieve greater results. This is a difficult culture shift to im plement, as employees often feel threat ened by the success of their colleagues.

However, by personally participating in the system and asking your employees to hold you accountable as well, you will be able to successfully implement a new company culture.

4. Consumers have changed, but training has not kept up with this phenomenon. The Millennial generation of consumers are not as impressed by product knowledge as the Baby Boomers used to be – they can find the information themselves. Furthermore, they seem to be the least loyal of all con sumer groups and the only way to retain them is by giving them an experience that will distinguish your store from the next re tailer. How? By appealing to the client’s lim bic system (the emotional part of the brain).

For this, you need revolutionary training.

The good news is: training really does work. Training changes companies, people, profitability and they way your consumers perceive your business.

All you need is a trainer who can provide you with a comprehensive training solution that will help you achieve each outcome you have targeted for your business, your staff and your customers.

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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR CALENDAR

Make a date for 2017 JANUARY 20-25

VicenzaOro January & T-Gold, Italy

www.vicenzafiera.it

FEBRUARY 5-9

Spring Fair International, Birmingham, England

www.springfair.com

8-10

India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Signature, India

www.iijs-signature.org

18-21

Inhorgenta Europe, Germany

www.inhorgenta.com

22-26

Bangkok Gem & Jewellery Fair, Thailand

www.bkkgems.com

284 Mar

HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, China

www.hktdc.com

MARCH 2-6

HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, China

www.hktdc.com

16-19

Istanbul Jewellery Show, Turkey

www.jewellerynetasia.com

23-30

Baselworld, Switzerland

www.baselworld.com

APRIL 19-22

China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shenzhen

www.jewellerynetasia.com

JUNE 5-8 15-18

JCK Las Vegas, USA

www.jcklasvegasshow.com

Thailand Gems & Jewellery Fair, Thailand

www.thailandgemsfair.com

JULY 3-4 28-31

Jovella Israel, Israel

www.stier.co.il

Malaysia International Jewellery Fair, Malaysia

www.elite.com.my

AUGUST TBC

India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), India

www.iijs.org

SEPTEMBER 23-27

VicenzaOro Fall, Italy

www.vicenzafiera.it

OCTOBER 8-10

Jewellex Africa, Johannesburg

www.jewellex.co.za

DECEMBER TBC

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

Dubai International Jewellery Week, Dubai

www.jewelleryshow.com

15

JEWELLERY

Danielle Porter – whose love for jewellery and gemstones started when she was a child in her father’s garage – tells SAJN about Luxco Importers’ new proudly South African jewellery collection, which she helped design.

Is this a branded collection? If so, what is its name?

We have two curated ranges called Serenity and Geometry. The jewellery has a particular look and feel that are being communicated through these names. Once the product’s established its place in the minds of our consumers, we can call it a brand.

What distinguishes it from other jewellery collections?

We’ve taken a non-traditional approach to fine jewellery, bordering the world of accessories: think fine jewellery that’s on trend, styling that’s in demand and pieces that are easy to wear. We wanted to create jewellery that women can invest in, but which is ultimately fun. The quality is fantastic and has enabled us to raise the bar. We’re proud to support local suppliers and manufacturers and to offer a range of jewellery to the end consumer that’s been responsibly sourced and ethically made.

Why did Luxco involve only women in the design process? Did women manufacture the range as well?

It wasn’t part of our mandate when we started this process. It happened very organically, as things do when you’re moving in the right direction. It was only at a meeting with all women sitting around a boardroom table that we realised how serendipitous this collection was turning out to be. Yes, there are women along with men who are physically involved in manufacturing our jewellery. Women are also the best critics of women’s jewellery, so the QC

Jewellery for women, by women process was thorough, with a lot of wearing and testing to get the final product just right.

What was the inspiration for this collection?

Women and what they want to wear. Diamonds and gold are an aspirational purchase and we wanted women to be able to invest in themselves and their wardrobes with pieces that have value, are in fashion and will eventually be passed on to their daughters and granddaughters. We want to offer consumers choices in fine jewellery which aren’t so traditional.

What materials and gemstones were used?

We’ve used gold in all three colours – white, yellow and rose gold – in 9ct, set with natural full-cut diamonds and tanzanite.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

JEWELLERY

Does a collection like this entail initial research?

Yes – a lot of it. It’s taken the best part of a year to bring to fruition. The process starts much the same way it would in the world of fashion. We watch trends, read magazines and attend international trade events to get a feel for what consumers want. Mood boards create the look and feel for the collections, which in turn give us direction in terms of the actual product. From there we work together to produce a range suitable for the market.

Who is this collection aimed at?

The female self-purchaser and the millennial. Women drive an estimated 70-80% of consumer spending with their purchasing power and influence, but we’ve been conditioned to think of jewellery as a special-occasion purchase, rather than an everyday or selfpurchase one. These perceptions are slowly changing, allowing us access to a market with significant growth potential. Studies show that women primarily shop by design, which is why we’ve merchandised our collections based on a look and feel. Our next-generation customer, "the millennial", is a conscious consumer. Being mindful of the changing attitudes towards purchasing, we have strategically selected manufacturers that comply fully with international standards for responsible business practice, sourcing and supply chain due diligences. This, along with our on-trend styling, offers the millennial consumer suitable options when looking to purchase fine jewellery.

How will you promote it?

We’ve adopted a multi-tiered approach to the promotion of our new collections. We’ve received very positive responses from a number of lifestyle and fashion magazines, which are excited about using our new products in their editorial spreads. Instagram’s also been a great vehicle, enabling us to share our products with the end consumer and obtain honest and immediate feedback. And, as always, our retailers are our key partners: their enthusiasm and buy-in are essential for the success of our collections.

Have you also designed a point-of-sale display stand on which retailers can showcase the range in their outlets?

Yes – we’ve created a unique display stand for

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

that purpose. We’ve always taken great pride in the photography of our jewellery and for the first time, we’ve photographed the jewellery on models. These images can be used in conjunction with our displays for effective merchandising and communication.

What are Luxco’s future plans for the collection?

We have plans to expand the range in 2017. Our ranges will be updated as per fashion cycles, being spring/summer and autumn/ winter. This allows us to carry ranges that are fresh and exciting throughout the year in order to meet the needs of a consumer with a ferocious appetite for new products. Going forward, our collections will remain small and very focused. Expertise in our field is key and we believe it’s expected from the end consumer. They want to see thought-out and curated collections in shop windows and it’s our aim to provide that.

tables at various fairs. A hand-made collection of leather and glass jewellery paid for my ticket to the USA, where I studied fine art for three years, with a course in jewellery design and manufacture at the San Francisco University of Art. After returning to SA in 2007, I became involved in various sectors of the local jewellery industry in retail, insurance replacements and wholesale. I thoroughly enjoy retail – the combination of business, human psychology and artistic creativity keeps me thoroughly engaged. Working with one of the most beautiful products in the world is hard to beat!

Has the collection been launched?

The collection’s been introduced to the trade. We’ve had a fantastic response to the styling, excellent quality and affordable pricing. The collection can be purchased from a number of upmarket jewellers throughout the country.

You played a pivotal role in its development. How long have you been involved in the industry and what do you enjoy most about working in the industry?

My love for jewellery and gemstones started as a child in my father’s garage, with a soldering iron, lead solder and perusing the gemstone

Women drive an estimated 70-80% of consumer spending with their purchasing power and influence, but we’ve been conditioned to think of jewellery as a specialoccasion purchase, rather than an everyday or self-purchase one.

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DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

2

The agate is a gemstone that has natural bands of colours, creating stripes that give the stone individuality and creativity.

These stripes appear because of other minerals within the gemstone that give it a “banded” appearance.

In 1599 a Spanish governor in Ecuador taxed the Jivaro tribe so excessively that they executed him by pouring molten gold down his throat. The ultimate payback!

5

4

Wedding rings for men are a 20th-century custom, launched by the jewellery industry to increase sales and double its market reach.

7

At the 1998 Academy Awards, Gwyneth Paltrow loaned a 40ct Harry Winston diamond necklace from the jeweller. When she won the Best Actress Oscar that year, her father bought her the piece.

8

Caratage or carat count is actually the measurement of how pure the gold in an item or jewellery piece actually is. It's measured in 24ths, so a 2.4ct piece of jewellery is actually 100% pure gold.

An organic gemstone refers to substances like pearls, coral and amber, all made by living organisms, rather than being created through natural geological processes.

3

A deep, saturated blue is the most valuable colour of tanzanite, while the paler tones are more affordable.

6

As a wedding present, the people of Burma gave the Queen 96 rubies, meant to protect her from the 96 diseases the Burmese believe can afflict the human body.

In 1973 she ordered a tiara to be made with the gems and the rubies were turned into roses with diamond petals.

9

Mesopotamian tombs at the Royal Cemetery of Ur, dating back to 29002300 BC, were stuffed with gorgeous gold, silver and semi-precious, stone-studded jewellery, including amazing lapis lazuli and gold crowns, collars and pins.

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

JEWELLERY

important that the council is becoming more prevalent in the eyes of the consumer, as is our recognition as a representative body within government.

Our involvement in the Security Initiative, in co-operation with Business Against Crime and the Consumer Goods Council, has become crucial. Crime is rife and the crime spree targeting cellphone and jewellery stores appears to be intensifying. Robbers have moved to strike early before the festive season begins. Once again, we urge members to communicate as much information to the council as possible so that it can be disseminated widely. The more informed our jewellers are, the better they can prepare themselves to prevent more robberies.

Over the past year, the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA has continued to work on the implementation of the Jewellery Manufacturing Trade Certificate (JMTC). which is a trade test set up by the industry for the industry. The JMTC is offered to members of the Jewellery Council as a test which they and their staff can complete in order to obtain a Jewellery Council of SA – Jewellery Manufacturing Trade Certificate.

In the manufacturing sector, more of our members are participating at DTI-sponsored international exhibitions. Unfortunately, the DTI has cut budgets, but we will continue to source any opportunities within the international space.

The council has continued to work on its Strategic Plan that will assist industry and government to understand the jewellery industry’s history and current status. This will be launched this year.

Our sincere appreciation is extended to our government partners and members for the incredible support we received in 2016, allowing us to work towards the sustainability and growth of our local industry.

Any association is only ever as strong as the sum of its members, so we invite you to participate and make use of the opportunities offered by the Jewellery Council.

For more information on the council, its activities and how to become part of a responsible jewellery community, visit: www.jewellery.org.za, contact us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za.

Looking at the year ahead Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA), reflects on some of the council’s achievements last year – including its fundamental role in the Bill that was published on the VAT on second-hand gold – and looks forward to an eventful 2017.

2016 WAS A BUSY YEAR, WITH THE JEWELLERY industry continuing to experience tough market conditions. However, despite these conditions, Jewellex Africa 2016 proved to be enormously successful. For the first time in 16 years, we ventured to the Gallagher Convention Centre and although the venue itself was incredible, Midrand was seen as unsuitable.

At a debriefing meeting held with exhibitors and interested parties, the decision was taken to revert to the Sandton Convention Centre (SCC). The dates agreed upon for 2017 took into consideration religious holidays, international show dates, public holidays and venue availability. In order to respect our observant Jewish exhibitors, the show will run from Sunday, 8 to Tuesday, 10 October 2017.

Our aim in 2017 will be to have such a fantastic offering that retailers will not want to miss the show: there will be product launches, not to mention show specials, which will only be available to visitors at the show. Retailers will be invited to make appointments so that they can receive the attention they deserve.

Thank you once again to the sponsors who added to the success of 2016’s show: De Beers SA, Metal Concentrators, Brinks, Cape Precious Metals, BYL Diamonds, Tai Fook, Gemfields, the DTI and the State Diamond Trader who enhanced the show immensely.

We have reached a turning point. We have proved that the industry can pull together and present a show which is beneficial to the growth of our local industry.

One of the main achievements of the council over the past year was being instrumental in the ruling on VAT on second-hand gold. After many

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

submissions and meetings with the National Treasury, the Minister published a Bill which essentially allows jewellers to claim the Notional Input Tax on second-hand gold if the goods are acquired for the sole purpose of supplying those goods in the same (or substantially the same) state to another person. The amendments will be effective from 1 April 2017.

A key objective in 2016 was to give more consideration to the needs of our retail members. In this regard, we started off by launching the “Standardising of Valuation Practices Recommended by the Jewellery Council of SA” in January last year. We subsequently received input and comments from members and have addressed these issues. This is a working document that will be updated annually. We will send out recommended disclaimers for members early this year to utilise on their receipts/ invoices and protect them against claims.

In terms of our fairly new partnership with Paramount Consulting, we will continue to offer training courses for retail jewellers. The aim is to offer comprehensive business solutions formulated to equip and empower management and sales staff.

We also participated in an advertising campaign and competition page in the Media24 Jewellery Books, Sarie, True Love, Fairlady and Grazia magazines, as well as Times Media’s Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury. It is

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Infinitely innovative Silplat have launched a new general range of pieces. Catering for both the lower- and upper market, Silplat specialise in gold and platinum. “We are particularly proud of our range of wedding bands, which have been manufactured for obvious aesthetic value, while being more comfortable to wear than in the past,” says the company. Visit them at Stand No. A4.

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A helping hand

Italian design inspired by you

OGI Systems (Stand No. G23) boasts the first system in the world that can do full mapping of any stone. Its product range includes the OGIREXV50 which enables the user to measure and detect inclusions in all kinds of stones. OGI Systems also has the software to go with this technology.

The software has advanced algorithms which enables the user to optimise profit, while increasing production.

Bacio (pronounced ba-cho), a new jewellery collection made up from individual Italian beads, charms and adornments can be built up over time and mixed in a vast number of ways to create bracelets and necklaces that express personal style – with a touch of Italian flair.

The individual pieces are made from 925 silver, swarovski crystal, Murano glass and hand-enamelled pottery. Manufactured and designed in Italy, the Bacio concept has already taken off in Europe and Australia and is sure to capture the imagination of South African women too.

Beads can be added one by one, and range from relatively inexpensive silver charms to ornate swarovski crystals.

Bacio also has a children’s range.

Visit Gemini Gold at Stand No.C6, C8 and C10 to view this collection.

Uplifting communities Kgabane (Stand No. I4) is an initiative of the Mintek Small Scale Mining and Beneficiation Division. On display are various pieces including necklaces, cufflinks and rings. This year they are also showcasing jewellery made from recycled glass bottles, which are

incorporated in silver. All items come from community projects as part of job creation and poverty eradication.

The facilitators provide a chosen community with business training, as well as equipment and training for the manufacture of the jewellery.

Refining the trade UNIQUE SOLDERING TECHNIQUES FROM ROMA GOLD

For their tenth Jewellex appearance, Roma Gold (Stand No. D10 and D12) are showcasing a large range of special cast pieces, including a range combing silver and gold – using separate casts.

This offers the potential buyer the best of both worlds, while keeping affordability in mind. Other items on display include a flower theme range of jewellery.

JYOTI SHOWS NEW DESIGNS Jyoti Gems India (Stand No. B4) deals mainly in tanzanite stones. On display at this year’s Jewellex are new concept jewellery designs incorporating black

diamonds and pearls. Jyoti is one of the biggest tanzanite wholesalers worldwide and delivers tanzanite stones in all shapes and sizes.

This year’s Jewellex is the fi rst for AU Traders and Refi ners (Stand No. A1 and H1). The company is involved in the refi ning of all precious metals. It also supplies alloys, does soldering and assaying as well as fi ling. According to Barend Nortjé, AU Traders and Refi ners’ refi ned metals can be supplied to customers in various forms, including bars and granules. Electro-plating can also be done. All refi ning is done chemically using the most up-todate technology. The company was awarded the Top Company Media Award for being one of the Top 300 performing companies in SA in 2007.

Anglo Platinum proudly supports creative design and the local jewellery industry.

Silver passion Jewellex Africa 2009 marks Kimmy B’s (Stand No. E14) third appearance. With 19 years of experience the company deals mainly in imported sterling silver. It has 925 collections, carefully coordinated ranges and eye-catching pieces which can be complimented with optional pieces. Kimmy B sources top quality diamonds, tanzanites and sapphires.

www.angloplatinum.co.za

Tel: (011) 334-2050 Cell: 082 821 2857 jacqui@autraders.co.za

SEE US AT STAND NO: H1 AND A1

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BRAND HISTORY

A technical challenge Inspiration can come from unexpected sources. An unusual feature on a watch was sparked by a polo field in India during the winter of 1931.

SWISS BUSINESSMAN AND WATCH COLLECTOR Cezar de Trey attended the match, at which one of the British officers had broken the glass of his watch during the game. The officer challenged De Trey to create a timepiece robust enough to withstand the rigours of polo.

De Trey queried the feasibility of such a watch with his friend, Jacques-David LeCoultre, who – in turn – approached movement manufacturer Jaeger SA to explore the possibility of a reversible watch. Jaeger duly contacted French designer René-Alfred Chauvot, who accepted the challenge and came up with the Reverso, a timepiece with a unique slideand-flip mechanism, which he officially presented at the Paris National Industrial Property Institute. Thus an elegant watch that could flip to be protected from shock became a reality.

Chauvot also presented a case-back which could be used to personalise the watch with a suitable inscription – in fact, a famous 1936 model, the Maharani, featured the portrait of a beautiful Indian woman.

The original Reverso was 38 mm long, 24 mm wide and 6 mm high – the same size it is today. The dial of the original model only showed hours and minutes. It was not until three years later that a small seconds counter was added at 6 o’clock.

De Trey had already registered the name Reverso and he authorised LeCoultre – the administrator of Patek Philippe at that time – to receive delivery of eight of the new Reverso cases, including four in white gold and four in yellow and white gold, from December

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

1931 to April 1942. Their cases were fitted with different styles and layouts, the circular movements based on ébauches by LeCoultre.

The eight Patek Philippe wristwatches were sold with a specific reference number of 106.

This was a limited production and Jaeger SA and LeCoultre merged shortly thereafter, to become Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Following World War II and the ensuing Art Deco movement, during which round watches became the mode, a rectangular watch was not popular. Later, during the quartz watch revolution of the Sixties, mechanical watches were badly affected. Nevertheless, confident that the Reverso could be re-launched successfully, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to use only mechanical movements.

In 1985, the brand presented the first-ever water-resistant Reverso case, which had only 30 parts. The second generation of the timepiece was not only water-resistant, but could also swivel along any point of the cradle. It now contained 50 components in one of the most complicated cases in watchmaking at that time.

The Reverso 60eme launched an era of limited editions with complications – a handwound calibre 824 was set in a large 18ct pink gold case and the solid silver guilloché dial concealed the movement, which had a power reserve and a date hand. This was followed by another 500-piece limited edition with a tourbillon in 1993, a minute repeater in 1994, a retrograde chronograph in 1996 and a dual time zone, followed by a perpetual calendar in 1994. Previously, in 1994, the brand had introduced the Duoface concept, with the back of the watch featuring a second dial. A new model acquired an eight-day double barrel which enhanced the accuracy by teaming a high-frequency balance with a week’s running power; 500 pieces were made. With its patented large date, the anniversary model opened a new chapter for the Grande Reverso, which had useful functions such as time zones,

daylight indication and instant power reserve.

Also released in 2011, the Repetition Minutes á Rideau takes technical beauty to a new level.

The three-dimensional development of the spherical tourbillon of 2008 of the Gyrotourbillon 2 introduced that year has a fascinating rotation speed of its two carriages – one rotation in 18,75 seconds for the inner cartridge and one second per minute for the outer cartridge.

For the first time, a watch runs on a cylindrical hairspring. This timepiece houses the major complications, a spherical tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with double retrograde indications and solar time with the equation of time.

The year 2016 saw the first-ever watch to contain three dials driven by a single movement – the Reverso Grande Complication a Triptique features three dimensions of time: civil, sidereal and perpetual.

To celebrate its 80th birthday, Reverso came out with a fresh take on the absolute classicism of its Art Deco line, the Reverso Ultimate Thin and Two Tribute models to honour the very first models.

The brand is credited with hundreds of inventions and 1 000 calibres (movements).

This includes the world’s smallest calibres and one of the most complicated wristwatches, plus timepieces of near-perpetual movement.

The manufacture was based in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux in 1886, when the watchmaking industry was divided among hundreds of small workshops, until Antoine LeCoultre and his son established their first manufacture in the area. Today the company is a fully-owned subsidiary of the Richemont Group.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Bigger and better A classic design by Italian brand U-Boat has been enhanced by increasing its case size.

The new version represents designer Italo Fontana’s belief that classic styling does not fade and die like passing fashions and that the contemporary style of the Classico model appeals to men and women with strong personalities.

The case of stainless steel has now been enlarged to 47 mm and, like the previous editions, the placement of the crown is on the left side. It is available with

Selected for an honour The year 2015 saw watch brand Ulysses Nardin selected as the winner in the Tourbillon category in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. It has been honoured by the jury entering it again in the 2016 edition of this prestigious prize.

The brand’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon has a hand-crafted oak marquetry dial.

A yachting-inspired system features a blue spinel band and an aluminium boom, which includes the minutes.

The brand has been the official sponsor of the Monaco Yacht Show for over eight years.

Its Chronograph Monaco, which incorporates 322 components, boasts the in-house-developed silicon escapement and balance spring.

This show is the annual high point on the yachting calendar.

a black and beige dial and on this, the U- Boat crown guard. The serial number is registered on a small plaque affixed to the side.

The watch has an automatic mechanical movement and functions are hours, minutes, seconds and date. In addition to the hand-made, handstitched calf leather strap, a strap with a waterproof finish is included in the presentation box.

Greco Genève releases the LTM22 Rebellious, offbeat and even downright crazy, the singular hexagonal nut-design watch by Greco Genève takes things up a notch by adopting a fluorescent look.

An original new iconic model in the Les Temps Modernes collection, whose stylistic inspiration stems from the masterful Modern Times film by the iconic Charles Chaplin, the LTM22t stands out in several ways.

First and foremost, its black DLC-treated titanium case – shaped like a hexagonal nut – naturally catches the eye. Secondly, the skull motif asserts itself as a deliberately non-conformist signature by day or night.

Greco Genève enhances the originality of the hexagonal nut shape by fluorescent pigmentation based on a chemical compound used in making banknotes and detectable under UV light. Since the use of the latter is subject to strict quotas, the LTM22t is issued in a 33-piece limited

edition. It is a contemporary and eccentric watch embodying an amazing blend of mechanical horology and highly innovative chemical processes.

It has a mechanical automatic movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.

Three times a winner A vintage-inspired diving watch has won the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for Tudor watches, which represents the third prize in four years for the brand in this prestigious annual event.

Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay Bronze was awarded this in the Petite Aguille sector – watches under ChF8 000 – in the sports watch section. Its design features have been derived from a long-standing relationship between the brand and some of the largest navies in the world, including those of France and the USA. This design inherits the general lines, as well as the dial and domed crystal from the very

22

first Tudor diving watches, and also features the prominent big crown and the distinctive, angular hours known as “snowflakes” from watches delivered to the French navy in the 1970s.

The characteristic of this model is the imposing bronze case of 43 mm diameter, which is an aesthetic reference to the historic bronze used in ships and other diving equipment. The choice of this metal – a high-performance alumin-

ium alloy – guarantees the development of a subtle and unique plasma which matches the user’s hands.

The timepiece is powered by Tudor’s manufacture calibre MTS01 featuring hours, minutes and seconds functions and is certified by the COSC, the independent Swiss testing institute. Other notable features are a “weekend-proof” 70-hour power reserve, as well as an anti-magnetic, high-precision silicon balance spring.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

LITTLE GEMS

Seeing red It occurs in bold ruby red and is often mistaken for ruby, but rubellite is one of the most sought-after of the colourful tourmaline family of gemstones, of which each individual variety has its own name. Alice Weil looks at the characteristics and history of this striking gem.

RUBELITE IS DERIVED FROM THE LATIN "rubellius", which means "reddish" and true rubellite comes in romantic shades from cranberry red to fuchsia and shines just as intensely in daylight as in artificial light.

This enchantingly beautiful gemstone of red or shocking pink – which, together with the violet content, are the two components required to achieve the most seductive red – differs from other gemstones which are most valued if free of inclusions. They make the gem more interesting and unique and, if clearly visible, are regarded in a favourable light. But it is not always easy to find two matching stones if required, for example, for a pair of earrings.

Rubellite is not plentiful and became popular in the past four centuries, but was used in the 17th-century Russian crown jewels and was sometimes thought to be ruby. The varying intensity of colour is important during the cutting process and a variety of cuts are used.

24

The majority of these gems come from Brazil, but they are also mined in Africa, Afghanistan and the USA. It is a fairly durable gem measuring 7-7,5 on the Mohs scale, making it suitable for most jewellery, but care should be taken to protect the stone from scratches or sharp blows.

Rubellite, when found in its natural state, belongs to the crystal family and, as such, is regarded as a semi-precious stone. Moving into the higher realm of precious stones – together with sapphires, emeralds and diamonds – are rubies, which have been the most sought-after precious stones since antiquity. They have long held the fascination of lovers of fine jewels… but only those who could afford them!

There are some amazing rubies which are famous for their beauty, many of which have become museum items. The gem was a symbol of power for mighty rulers and in the past, royalty and the wealthy classes had exquisite collections.

Burma was a famed source for producing the best-quality rubies. One of the finest found in 1853 was a 400ct stone of unsurpassed beauty. Historic records say that the owner broke it in two, giving one half to King Mindon Min and the other half secretly to Calcutta, though this was eventually returned when the city was ordered to do so. The second stone was purchased at an enormous price and returned to Burma. These were again recut into one stone of 98ct and another weighing 74ct.

These were taken to England when the British annexed Burma.

A 77ct stone was found there in 1879. Many of the most magnificent gems were mined in its Mogok area. A stone weighing 100ct was discovered there and presented to the king by the governor of the mining district as a mark

of respect. In fact, most such gems found their way to rulers and dynasties around the world.

At the end of World War I, an uncut ruby of 43ct which yielded a 25ct gem and was suitably named the Peace Ruby was mined in 1919 from the Mogok mines. It had an irregular hexagonal shape of unblemished clarity, its colour an amazing perfect red as deep as pigeon’s blood.

It was purchased by an Indian trader in Burma, and bought and sold many times thereafter, though its present location is unknown.

Sri Lanka mines yielded a 138ct star ruby which was donated to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington by Rosser Reeves, after whom it was named. A 100ct oval cabochon displayed at the Museum of Natural History in New York is named the De Long after its donor, while this museum’s counterpart in London was presented with a ruby in 1887 by John Ruskin which was named the Edward.

The Sultan of Brunei owns a Mogok ruby reputed to be the finest of all, with a highest price paid per carat sold to him by London jeweller, Graff.

Then there is the so-called Black Prince’s Ruby in the Imperial State Crown of Britain.

Despite its nomenclature, it is not a ruby at all, but a spinel – but that’s another red herring.

(Above): A ring by Piaget featuring a cushion-cut rubellite.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2017

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