R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News JULY 2019
SA
A diamond collection of success stories GIA spots natural-synthetic hybrid diamond Industry icon Sid Forman passes away
South Africa’s trusted gemological laboratory SINCE 1980
• Impeccable customer service • Efficient turnaround time • Consistency & quality • Certification of Diamonds, Tanzanite, Gemstones and Jewellery
www.egl.co.za Suite E8, First Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Bedfordview, Johannesburg
SOUTH AFRICA
Tel: +27 11 334 4527 | Fax: +27 11 334 2193 | Email: infoJHB@egl.co.za | Website: www.egl.co.za
The MQA Changes the Life of a Beneficiary Nqobile Nkosi is a name to be reckoned with in the jewellery industry. He is the owner of NQ Jewellery in Soweto and operates a manufacturing workshop at Rand Refinery Estate in Germiston. He has gone from strength to strength as he continues to embrace opportunities presented to him. He has successfully fulfilled his role of being an ambassador as well as being part of the HCI Supplier Club that provides support and benefits for small, medium and micro enterprises who are suppliers or potential suppliers to the diverse HCI group and its subsidiaries. Nqobile originally joined the respected
individual to qualify as an attorney, the
Kickstart Award and Hope Fund by Euro
ranks of jewellery designers through an
founder of Jerry Nkeli & Associates law
News, and he continues to receive rave
interesting turn of events which led him
firm, and a director in several business-
reviews in many quarters.
towards his professional destiny.
es. Jerry invested in Nqobile and became
While he had studied towards a national
his mentor.
Nqobile’s custom-made jewellery reflects a contemporary style inspired by the
certificate in electrical engineering, he
Nqobile’s dream was to open a factory
warmth and colour of South Africa, while
was unable to complete the course due
in the township and he got his lucky
interpreting eurocentric tones. His jewel-
to a lack of financial support. He learnt
break after a chance meeting with Paul
lery is displayed in a range of outlets such
about a two-year course in jewellery
Spurgeon, an award-winning UK jewellery
as the Big 5 at OR Tambo airport, Touvest
manufacturing and design at the Soweto
designer, who took Nqobile under his wing
retail outlets around South Africa and the
Jewellery School funded by the MQA,
and exposed him to some of his networks
popular Bryanston Organic Market.
and he applied. After a month, Nqobile
in the UK and supported him with funding
designed and made a wedding band.
and equipment.
Nqobile is also part of the Tsogo Sun Entrepreneur Programme that provides
“And that changed my life”, he says.
He has also had the opportunity to
valuable support in terms of mentorship
“I knew then, that this is what I wanted
complete a professional jeweller diploma
and sustained interest. He is confident
to do. Designing and making jewellery. I
with the Gemological Institute of America,
that he will continue to thrive and grow his
could do it!”
exhibit at trade shows across the UK and
market access.
The path to establishing his own jew-
in Hong Kong. His success as a jewellery
“I have not only gained tremendous
ellery design company has not been
designer has seen him travelling fairly
confidence through the MQA and others’
smooth but Nqobile’s future is truly on
extensively; three times to the UK for
investment in my personal development
the up. He registered his company in
trade shows, where he was also granted
but have also prospered through the
2007 but struggled to source funding to
internships; and to Hong Kong for trade
knowledge and business acumen that
buy equipment. He eventually resorted
shows, where he learned how to enhance
I have gained by being part of these
to selling cakes and biscuits until he had
his machinery and showcase his products.
valuable programmes.”
saved enough money to get started. Sub-
He has won numerous awards: Finalist
sequently his work ethic was recognised
Gauteng
by Jerry Nkeli, the first black paraplegic
Community Awards-Vuka Uzenzele, SAB
Business
Leader
Award;
Jet
Nqobile’s success in the jewellery world has exposed him up to a high caliber of clients.
For more information on learning programmes, please contact the MQA on 011 547 2600.
LIZ ARD SERIES
EQ06/BLUE R98.00
EQ07/BLUE R65.00
EQ03/BLUE R30.00
EQ08/BLUE R79.00
EQ1R9/BLUE R25.00 Made In South Africa
EQ1R1/BLUE R25.00
EQ05/BLUE R35.00
EQ04/BLUE R45.00
EQ09/BLUE R35.00
New address: 20 Franson Street, Chamdor, Krugersdorp | Tel: 011 837-7700 | Fax: 086 571 7468 | Email: info@displaycreations.co.za | Website: www.displaycreations.co.za
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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za
c ntents 18. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
The goal of business
19. JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk
Industry icon Sid Forman passes away
Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
8. NEWS
20. INDUSTRY TRAINING
Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za
• GIA diamond grading lab class to be hosted in Johannesburg in August
Cut the training budget immediately!
• Swarovski plans move into natural diamonds
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
• Confirmed sponsorships for Jewellex Africa 2019
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
• New lab-grown association launched • Registration for CIBJO Congress 2019 now open
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
• RapNet members say “no” to synthetics
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
12. SCENE AROUND EGLSA team bids farewell to Managing Director Alan Lowe
14. DIAMONDS A diamond collection of success stories
22. DIAMONDS GIA spots natural-synthetic hybrid diamond
Jewellery Council of
South Africa
Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
4
24. LITTLE GEMS The ethereal beauty of moonstone
R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News JULY 2019
SA
A diamond collection of success stories GIA spots natural-synthetic hybrid diamond Industry icon Sid Forman passes away
On the cover Piyuvé Jewellers is a Kwa-Zulu Natal based jewellery manufacturer that specialises in traditional Indian bridal jewellery, traditional Indian jewellery, contemporary jewellery, custom designed one off pieces and seamless bands. Not only does the company boast amongst the highest skilled workforce, but also unique machinery, some of which are the only ones in the country. For more information, contact Piyuvé Jewellers on tel: (031) 3013963 or e-mail: info@piyuvejewelers.co.za.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
A special edition of the
Award-winning excellence. On Tangerine Street, on an unassuming corner in Laudium, one might find the delightfully compact and always friendly Kirti Jewellers. Kirti, a selftaught jeweller, and his wife, Ragini, will greet you at the door. A proud and harmonious partnership, they have grown Kirti Jewellers into one of the most respected and successful jewellery houses in the country. Kirti Jewellers offers a wide range of exquisite Eastern and Western jewellery in a variety of carats, and specialises in gold, white-gold, platinum and diamonds. PlatAfrica award winners, lovers of the trade, and all-round stellar jewellers, their workshop will be sure to craft you a masterpiece!
Est. 1996 246 Tangerine Street, Laudium, Centurion, City of Tshwane, South Africa +27 12 374 0873
CPT: 021 510 0770
|
PTA: 012 000 4440
|
| kirtijewellersonline.co.za
DUR: 083 600 2210
|
info@MetCon.co.za
|
MetCon.co.za
NEWS
Jewellex Bulletin Board CPM’s Chill Lounge at Jewellex Africa Cape Precious Metals is looking forward to showcasing our extensive range of products and services at Jewellex Africa. We always enjoy the opportunity to connect with our customers and partners in this environment, which is a welcome change from the normal fast pace of business in our exciting industry. Our experienced and knowledgeable team will once again be on hand to share handy tips for getting the most out of refining batches and to answer any product-related queries jewellers may have. Adjacent to our stand will be our Chill Lounge, where attendees can enjoy refreshing iced coffee and gin cocktails, as well as champagne and gin-tastings at scheduled times. The Chill Lounge will also host the JCSA Col-
lection Design Competition Awards at 1pm on Monday, 7 October. CPM invites all Jewellex visitors to come and chill with us and explore the networking opportunities and well-deserved social time that this expo provides. Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and has been hosted by the Jewellery Council of SA for over 40 years. The event attracts exhibitors from all over the world, including Europe, the USA, the Far East and the SADC countries, for three days in October. This is when new merchandise lines and the most exclusive and extensive product ranges of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services available are offered to the local and
international retail jewellery industry. Jewellex Africa 2019 will take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.
NEW LAB-GROWN ASSOCIATION LAUNCHED Two jewellery veterans have débuted a group that aims to raise awareness of, and demand for, laboratory-grown diamonds in the USA. The Lab-Grown Diamond Council (LGDC) will introduce new initiatives for the synthetics market, including research services, social media and education about sustainability. Chris Casey, former publisher of National Jeweler, will serve as the group’s President and Michael Barlerin, Director of the Silver Institute’s Silver Promotion Service, will be its Chairman.
“The LGDC has been established to create a unified voice to maximise the growth of labgrown diamonds,” says Casey. “Our intention is to provide members with the tools they need to continue to drive the growth of this revolutionary product.” Membership in the council is open to all companies active in the synthetics market or contemplating entry. “Many leading companies in the lab-grown market have approached me over the past year regarding the need for focused, research-
based messaging on advocacy, communication and education of the unique offering of lab-grown diamonds,” says Barlerin. “The LGDC creates the platform to both develop and deliver on these needs.” Another group, the International Grown Diamond Association (IGDA), was launched by more than 10 lab-grown diamond producers in 2016 to represent the sector. It also aims to promote synthetics and educate consumers about them. – Rapaport
CONFIRMED SPONSORSHIPS FOR JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019 The 2019 Jewellex Africa Committee has announced a number of confirmed sponsorships for this year’s show. The 2019 Jewellex Africa cocktail function will be sponsored by Anglo Plat, while Metal Concentrators will once again sponsor the coffee shop and Speakers’ Corner and Protea Diamonds the carrier bags. The WiFi for this year’s show will once again be sponsored by Gemfields, while Brinks will sponsor this year’s lanyards. The Jewellex Africa Committee has invited industry players to make use of its sponsorship opportunities to promote brands, products and/ or services at this year’s show. “What a fantastic opportunity to expose your brand!” says Lorna Lloyd, Chairperson of the committee. Sponsorship will be offered on a first-come, first-served basis. For more information, contact Lorna Lloyd or Elsa da Silva on tel: (011)
484-5528 or e-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za or elsad@jewellery.org.za. Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and has been hosted by the Jewellery Council of SA for over 40 years. The Jewellex Africa Trade Fair attracts exhibitors from all over the world, including from Europe, the USA, the Far East and the SADC countries. This is the time when new merchandise lines and the most exclusive and extensive product ranges of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services available are offered to the local and international retail jewellery industry. Jewellex Africa 2019 is scheduled to take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.
GIA DIAMOND GRADING LAB CLASS TO BE HOSTED IN JOHANNESBURG The Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School will be hosting a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) diamond grading lab class in Johannesburg from 26-20 August 2019. Through the GIA’s unique combination of classroom lectures, hands-on training, one-onone coaching and integrated multimedia, the institute’s diamond grading lab class will explore how to grade diamonds consistently and accurately using a modern gem microscope and jeweller’s loupe. Students will study the GIA international diamond grading system, explore time-saving methods to determine a variety of grading factors and be introduced to methods for reading a GIA diamond grading report. They will further spend more than 16 hours practising grading
techniques on diamonds that were carefully selected and graded by the GIA. In the process, they will learn how to recognise the most common diamond features. Students will have to pass a two-stone practical exam to complete the class successfully and will be allowed to keep a lab manual, a pointer probe, a gem cloth, a plotting pen set, a table gauge, a crown angle card and a colour grading card. Successful completion of this class will be accepted by GIA as training credit towards GIA certificates and diplomas. For fee information or to enrol, contact the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School on tel: (011) 334-9003/8420 or e-mail: info@diamondtrainingschool.co.za.
(Above): During the 16th annual general meeting of the Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA, Lionel Noach was appointed as the club’s Chairman, while Molefi Letsiki was appointed as its Vice-Chairman and Mike Ellis as Treasurer. The following people were appointed as the club’s News Executive Committee: David Woolf, Trevor Temkin, Richard Ramsden, Tomer Doron, Lior Sitton, Nielette Henderson, Angela Yeung, Aron Blom and Carlo Prinsloo. During the meeting, life membership was presented to Ernie Blom and David Woolf.
VIEW OUR ONLINE CATALOGUE AT:
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
WWW.JPPE.CO.ZA
5-7 OCTOBER 2019 Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition
+27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex
REGISTRATION FOR CIBJO CONGRESS 2019 NOW OPEN Registration for the 2019 congress of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, is now open. Delegates and other participants may register for the congress via a dedicated congress website: http://www.cibjo.org/congress2019. CIBJO’s 2019 annual congress will take place in Manama, the capital of the Kingdom of Bahrain, from 18-20 November, with precongress meetings beginning on 16 November. It is being organised by DANAT, the Bahrain Institute for Pearls & Gemstones.The venue for the event is the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay. The dedicated website includes the congress programme, the various congress venues, important travel information, background information about Bahrain, news and photo galleries. An online registration form for the congress is
form for the programme for accompanying persons will be added shortly. Upon registering, CIBJO Congress delegates will also be able to book hotel rooms using links on the dedicated website, both for the official congress hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay and the Wyndham Grand Manama, which is located within walking distance of the official venue. CIBJO Congresses serve as the gathering place for the World Jewellery Confederation's Assembly of Delegates and are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation's definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books. The CIBJO Congress is also where the programme of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (which promotes respon-
available and, since it will be a carbon-neutral event, participants are also requested to complete a carbon footprinting form. A registration
sible and sustainable activities in the industry), and its ongoing co-operation with the United Nations, is reported on.
WFC LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE The World Diamond Council (WDC) has announced the launch of a newly-designed website upgrading the level of support provided both to its own members and the diamond and jewellery industries in general. It also reports on the organisation’s ongoing work within the Kimberley Process (KP) and its mission to protect the integrity of the diamond value chain. The new website is at the WDC’s long-standing Internet address: www.worlddiamondcouncil.org. More reactive and news-orientated, the new website opens a window into the functioning and approach of the WDC, which for 19 years has represented the diamond and jewellery industries in the tripartite KP forum, alongside government and civil society, in the prevention and eradication of the trade in conflict diamonds. A key function of the new website is to support ongoing programmes and projects being carried out by the WDC, including its annual meetings and participation in key KP events and programmes. A newly-added section focuses on the revised WDC System of Warranties, which was approved towards the end of 2018 and will soon be augmented by online self-assessment tools. The website also includes an extensive Resource Library, containing documents, reports and presentations relating to the WDC's own
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
work, as well as that of the KP and other international bodies in the campaign against conflict diamonds. A section of the new website is designed to assist industry members interested in joining the WDC to complete the membership application process, supply information about conditions of membership and provide downloadable forms, declarations and other instructions. “The WDC operates in a dynamic environment and we wanted the new website to properly reflect this and the essential work being done on behalf of the industry and its stakeholders, often without them even realising it,” says David Bouffard, Chairman of the WDC Communications Committee, which has overseen the project. “Functionality was also a key goal, particularly as we now prepare to expand the self-assessment aspect of the WDC System of Warranties.”
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WWW.JPPE.CO.ZA
SCENE AROUND
EGLSA team bids farewell to MD Alan Lowe
10
ON 30 MAY, THE EGL SOUTH AFRICA (EGLSA)
Rosenthal has been with EGLSA for over 20
team and industry members gathered to bid farewell to Alan Lowe, who served as Managing Director of the diamond grading lab for over 30 years. Lowe has handed over the reins to Brenda Rosenthal. “I’m turning 70 this year and believe the technology for gemmological labs today requires younger minds,” he says. “It’s time for the younger crew to take EGLSA to the next level. “I’m really going to miss the camaraderie within the team,” adds Lowe. “I’m also going to miss dealing with clients and the technical challenges in identifying gems.”
years, the past 17 as its General Manager. “I’m very excited about this new chapter for me and EGLSA and aim to continue giving clients outstanding service,” says Rosenthal. “Alan will be greatly missed by our team. He’s been an incredible mentor not only to those who’ve worked with him, but to the entire industry because of his integrity and strong moral values.” Lowe will still be part of the local diamond and jewellery industry, as he plans to offer gemmological training courses in southern Africa.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SA Jewellery News among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
MANUFACTURERS
33,3%
66,6% BETTER
BETTER
0%
66,6%
SAME
33,3%
MAY 2019 VS MAY 2018
DIAMOND DEALERS 33,3% BETTER
66,6%
SAME
SAME
0%
0%
WORSE
WORSE
WORSE
Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
Best-selling diamond size
0,5ct General sales compared with last year this time
50% BETTER
RETAILERS
0% SAME
0%
0%
BETTER
BETTER
0% BETTER
0%
0%
SAME
SAME
SAME
50%
100%
50%
WORSE
Foot traffic
50% WORSE
100%
WORSE
WORSE
General sales compared with last year this time
Watch sales
Breakdown of retail sales bridal 15% fine jewellery 77% watches 7%
WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time
0% BETTER
0% SAME
100% WORSE
(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
VIEW OUR ONLINE CATALOGUE AT:
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DIAMONDS
A diamond collection of success stories Munirah Desai, founder of Diamonds Africa, Thoko Zwane, founder of Thoko’s Diamonds and Mosibudi Jo Mathole, founder of Kwame Diamonds, are known as the “Diamond Collections” after successfully completing the De Beers Diamond Beneficiators Programme with Raizcorp. IN FEBRUARY THIS YEAR, THE DE BEERS Group celebrated the successful conclusion of the first phase of its Enterprise Development Project for Diamond Beneficiators pilot project with five black South African-owned diamond and cutting companies graduating from their entrepreneurial development programme. The three-year programme, facilitated by De Beers Sightholder Sales SA (DBSSSA) in partner-
14
ship with globally recognised business incubation expert, Raizcorp, included formal, curriculum-based learning in parallel with mentorship in business strategy, finance, sales, marketing and personal development. All participating owners have subsequently demonstrated significant growth in the knowledge and skills required to run successful businesses. Launched in 2016, the Enterprise Develop-
ment Project for Diamond Beneficiators aims to facilitate the growth and transformation of the diamond-cutting and polishing industry in SA, with a holistic approach that seeks to optimise interventions in all aspects of the diamond pipeline, from rough diamond purchasing to state-of-the-art manufacturing, marketing and distribution. As part of the programme, each participat-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
DIAMONDS
ing company received an allocation of rough diamonds from De Beers, in line with their market requirements and capacity. In addition, the project has facilitated local and international market access for the five companies and sponsored their participation at international trade shows, including the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair and JCK Las Vegas. Through the business acumen and entrepreneurian skills acquired from the De Beerssponsored Raizcorp programme, the companies have seen significant turnover growth and new jobs have been created. The project also proved groundbreaking in its support for women in the diamond-cutting and polishing industry, with two of the five participating companies being 100% womenowned and another 50% women-owned. Peter Phemelo Moeti, Senior Vice-President of DBSSSA, says: “Diamond-cutting and polishing is a science, an art and a passion – the turning of an ancient resource into something truly brilliant. We believe this project gives South Africans the opportunity to play their full part in unlocking the beauty and everlasting value of their most precious resource. I’m very proud of our project members and the passion they have for this industry. They’ve become experts in telling good stories about diamond beneficiation in our country. Well done to all of them for reaching this point in their journey.” Allon Raiz, CEO of Raizcorp, says: “The De Beers entrepreneurial development programme is very important for the diamond industry and represents an authentic first step in transforming the industry. I’ve been extremely impressed by De Beers’ high level of management and leadership involvement in the programme, and its care and attention to detail. The results of the programme have been excellent. I believe this is largely owing to the careful selection of the five participating companies, as well as the design of the programme and the continuous input to that from De Beers. Our graduating entrepreneurs are totally committed and have excelled.” Three women successfully completed the De Beers Diamond Beneficiators Programme and were fittingly named the “Diamond Collection”. They comprise Munirah Desai, founder of Diamonds Africa, Thoko Zwane, founder of Thoko’s Diamonds and Mosibudi Jo Mathole, founder of Kwame Diamonds.
nonplussed that I hadn’t gone directly to a store, but I was adamant that my diamond had to come from De Beers. After pestering them for a few weeks, I was given the name of a dealer from whom I could buy a De Beers stone. “My visit to the dealer changed my life. Over the years, he became my mentor and my very good friend. At our first meeting, we came to an agreement that I would sell some of his stones for a small profit while learning about the nuances of the diamond trade. Initially it was just a hobby, but when my children had grown up, I decided to turn it into a career. I completed the course offered by the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Trading School and also qualified as a GIA graduate. It was a beautiful time in my life. “I knew that if I wanted to buy and sell diamonds seriously, I needed a partner. At that point, I was advised to approach Raizcorp. Little did I know that it would be the best thing ever to happen to me. “When I started othe De Beers Enterprise Development Programme, I myself was an unpolished diamond. My computer skills were lacking and I had very little knowledge of proper accounting or how to keep financial records. I found it hard to give presentations or talk easily and confidently about my business. “Thanks to the guidance I’ve received on the programme, I’ve learnt how to manage my finances better and put the money I earn back into the business. I’ve also learnt to communicate more effectively and I even carry myself differently. Raizcorp doesn’t tell you what to think, nor does it prescribe how you should behave. Instead, it offers guidance on the best business practices, which have an impact on the way you conduct yourself and do business. The process used by the guides is incredible! Not only have I seen my own business grow as a result, but my peers have seen tremendous growth too. “This experience has taught me that the definition of failure is the failure to try. My goal is to achieve a level of success that will enable me to give back to others. I want to give back to the people of my community, to
people who share my passion for diamonds and to people who don’t have the means to follow their own dreams. “I’m very grateful to De Beers and Raizcorp for the support and guidance I’ve received on the programme. It really has been a lifechanging experience for me.” Thoko Zwane | Thoko’s Diamonds “It’s not just about business growth, but about personal growth as well” “Living in Newcastle, I’d always assumed that I’d have a future in the textile industry. My world was turned upside down when, as a job-seeker, I was continuously unsuccessful in finding employment in my desired field. “A door finally opened when, on my way home after a day of job-searching, an advertisement caught my eye. It was a poster advertising a job at a well-known diamondcutting and polishing factory. The word ‘diamond’ stood out for me. It was a word I fell in love with. “I was offered a position which turned out to be the helping hand I needed to support my family and the start of a journey that would change the rest of my life.
Munirah Desai | Diamonds Africa “I turned my hobby into my career” “My love for diamonds started when, as a young bride, I received a dowry. I wanted to spend part of it on a diamond, so I contacted the De Beers head office. They were a little
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
15
DIAMONDS
“My mindset to succeed motivated me to accumulate my savings throughout my years working in the factory until, eventually, I had enough money to buy my first stone from a subsidiary of De Beers. My subsequent relationship with the dealer grew to the point where it trusted me enough to supply me with rough diamonds on credit. These were the gems I needed to take the next step in my ‘diamond’ journey. “Fast forward a decade and I was finally the founder and CEO of my very own diamondcutting and polishing company, Thoko’s Diamonds. My dream had come true. It wasn’t, however, without pure determination and resilience that I managed to achieve this milestone. The diamond industry comes with many misconceptions and stereotypes that can put a woman on her back foot. During my days in the factory, I’d learnt that in order to succeed, I had to work a little harder, push a little further and remain committed every step of the way. “I faced some unexpected challenges when I first started out in the form of finance, market penetration and the identification of potential and consistent customers. It wasn’t until I was chosen for the De Beers Diamond Beneficiators Programme with Raizcorp that I started to take hold of every aspect of my business. Raizcorp taught me that it’s not just about business growth, but about personal growth as well, which in turn help me to successfully and professionally manage my business. Overall, my communication skills improved drastically and my confidence began to grow. “It’s because of Raizcorp and the De Beers programme that I’ve been able to overcome challenges I wouldn’t have been able to cope with alone. Raizcorp is obsessed with entrepreneurs and entrepreneurship; it offers world-class incubation and acceleration programmes for people like me, who have a hunger and drive to run a successful operation. So, as a business, we’re now prepared for what the future holds and we’re equipped for anything that comes our way.
“My advice to emerging young entrepreneurs is to make a commitment to education, to learning as much as you can. Gear up, stay focused and accept failure as something that will only make you stronger. You don’t have to be fearless – just don’t let the fear stop you.” Musibudi “Jo” Mathole | Kwame Diamonds “A future that’s very bright” “My career began in stockbroking and investment banking, but I’ve always been fascinated by diamonds and the diamond industry which, traditionally, has been dominated by men. I believed that women could play a part in turning around some of the more negative perceptions of the industry by starting a legitimate business that was properly run and licensed. “I went on a diamond-sorting and valuation course and received my licence in 2006. I also travelled through Africa to learn more about the industry and teamed up with an Indian company to help it set up a South African-based diamond-cutting works. My partner, Khomotso, and I started Kwame Diamonds in 2010. “The main barrier in the beginning was finance. When I approached a financial institution for help in starting a factory, they laughed at me. Also, this is quite a closely-knit industry, so you need someone to vouch for you, and to develop contacts and alliances. “When I initially engaged with De Beers, all I wanted it to do was supply us with diamonds. It turned out that it was interested in helping to grow and transform the local diamond sector, and that’s how we landed up on its enterprise development programme. “My partner and I have learnt a great deal. Things we always took for granted and that we weren’t even aware of are now key. I’ve come to know myself better because my personal development guide is constantly probing and encouraging me. There’s never a wrong answer to a ques-
tion, which means you can share your thoughts openly and there won’t be any judgement. The guiding style is beautiful because it’s interactive and you know that confidences will be respected. I feel much stronger, more confident and I’m no longer intimidated. “Finances are still a bit of a struggle, but it’s been very useful having help in planning our end goal and knowing where we’re going. We’ve also learnt a lot about marketing and sales, which has allowed us position our company in a new way. It’s become much easier to put the necessary building blocks in place. My head is in the right space and I now have the grounding to take this business to the next level. We have some very lucrative contracts in the pipeline with blue-chip companies. These will change our lives and those of the people we try to empower. “If I could offer any aspiring entrepreneur advice, it would be: come to Raizcorp! The lessons you learn apply to you not only as a business person, but as a human being. You’ll be reborn as you start seeing things in a completely different light. I’d also tell them not to be shy about chasing their dreams because of what other people might say. “I’m eternally grateful to De Beers. It’s not always easy to find someone who has faith in you, so its confidence in us and the resources it’s devoted to us are deeply appreciated. I hope we can be the business it wants us to be and lead the way for those who follow. Its support is helping us create a future that’s very bright.” – Rapaport
Launched in 2016, the Enterprise Development Project for Diamond Beneficiators aims to facilitate the growth and transformation of the diamond-cutting and polishing industry in SA, with a holistic approach that seeks to optimise interventions in all aspects of the diamond pipeline, from rough diamond purchasing to state-of-the-art manufacturing, marketing and distribution. 16
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
Skills Development
AT SID FORMAN
Born in Johannesburg of humble beginnings, master craftsman
proud of our employees and know that they share our collective
Sid Forman established the company Sid Forman Manufacturing
values of respect, inclusiveness, excellence and responsibility.
Jewellers over sixty years ago, as one of the many successful ventures in his life. Sid Forman Manufacturing Jewellers is a third
We value diversity and inclusion because we believe each of our
generational legacy of quality designers and master craftsman,
employees can make a unique contribution to our company and
producing work of world class standards.
the Sid Forman brand. We recognize each employee’s knowledge and skills as an important source of organizational capability and
Forman, himself, was known as a master goldsmith, an artist,
competitive advantage, ensuring there are broad training and
designer and jeweller. His work evidences a finely orchestrated,
development opportunities at all levels.
artistic approach to creating gold and bronze objets d’art, jewellery, painting and sculpture.
Our programme is a pragmatic vision of skills development which integrates the need to develop skills, create jobs and grow the
A huge aspect of Sid Forman’s company lies within skills
economy. The vision is set within a framework of inclusivity and
development training of young South African designers, as a
social transformation and is displayed against backdrops of
means to contribute to the wider South African community. Sid
international competitors, which represent the bar to which South
Forman Manufacturing Jewellers has trained roughly two-hundred
African’s need to aspire to raise themselves. It’s a game changing
students under its name, and continues to endeavour to contribute
vision and one which we are excited to share with the trade.
to this sector today by means of the GDP (Graduate Development Program) hosted by the MQA (Mining Qualifications Authority).
By helping our youth further their education we open up many doors for the future of South African’s. Individuals are able to
Our company is only as strong as our employees and at Sid
consider things that never seemed possible: new ideas, new job
Forman we prioritize building and nurturing a culture of excellence
opportunities, the chance to get out of poverty – and achieve new
across our operations. From the sales professionals who begin
levels of success. To be more, we need to become more and this
their careers and retire with us to our newest designers, we are
is exactly what we aim for in our programme here at Sid Forman.
Sid Forman | No. 3 Sturdee Avenue, Suite 1004B, Rosebank | +27 11 334 6715 | Info@sidforman.co.za For Enquiries regarding skills development contact juliette@sidforman.co.za Sid Forman Store | Shop BC 36B, Sandton City Shopping Centre | +27 11 784 4136 | shop@sidforman.co.za
THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
The goal of business Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. WHAT IS THE GOAL OF ANY business? Most of us have been groomed to answer: “To make money.” A more accurate answer would be: “To get and keep customers”, the thinking being that if we consistently get and keep our customers, then making money will be a natural result thereof. Simon Sinek expressed something similar in one of his TED Talks when he said: “Making money will always be a result.” Either way, what is of utmost importance is that we run our business with the customer as the central reason for our existence. And we need to work from the centre (customer) out, not from the outside in, leaving the customer till last in our business operations. Richard C Whitely put it this way: “The only right way to run a company, and the most profitable way, is to saturate your business
18
with the customer’s voice.” How often do we make important decisions regarding everything from design to execution without having our customer’s direct influence and involvement or, at the very least, their voice represented in some way? In serving our customers, are we working from our own perspectives and goals, or from those of our customers? The more we can get the customer’s input from the beginning, the less hassle and rework we will experience at the end. Saturating your business with the customer’s voice can be complex and time-consuming, yet the payoffs far outweigh the investment. Consider the following points regarding customer-centricity: 1. It is everyone’s responsibility in a business, not only one department or person’s dedi cated job description. 2. It must be a key strategic business focus, having its own dedicated strategy, plan and measurement – not merely forming part of other business goals and outcomes. 3. It must be taught, coached and made part of the culture of how the business is run. I once visited a retail outlet looking for a
particular product. When I could not locate it myself, I went to one of the men packing the freezers and asked if he could tell me where to find it. He stopped what he was doing and said with a smile: “Sure, sir, I’ll take you there.” The more I tried to convince him to just tell me where to find it, the more he insisted that he would escort me there. Realising I was not going to win this one, I asked him why he was so respectfully adamant in taking me and not just telling me where to go. His reply? “Sir, we’re trained this way.” His answer encapsulated the essence of customer centricity, in that it was something all the employees of that particular organisation were educated in and all of them lived up to it. It was their culture, their strategy and their differentiation. We may not all have huge retail businesses, but whether you have one staff member or hundreds, the key principle is that everyone knows what is expected and they deliver on that expectation with excellence. The real test is whether customer-centric behaviour is consistently duplicated across multiple locations of the same retail outlet. So I deliberately went out to test the hypothesis – and, to my delight, I experienced the exact same demonstration of customer-centricity.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING
Industry icon Sid Forman passes away It was with great sadness that the industry learnt of the passing of Sidney Forman on 26 May. “Sid has been an inspiration to us all here at Sid Forman and he will be sorely missed. His legacy, however, will live on in the company he started and in the industry he innovated decades earlier,” read a press release sent out by the House of Sid Forman. His funeral was held in Israel on 27 May. FORMAN WAS BORN IN JOHANNESBURG ON 14 July 1935. He showed his artistic abilities from a young age and continued to put these skills to use throughout his 83 years of life. He started his company, Sid Forman, in 1963 and, with his wife Lorraine at his side, grew it into one of the pre-eminent companies in the industry. He ran it until August 2013, when he was forced to retire due to a severe stroke. His two sons, Mark and David, took over. Throughout this period, Lorraine managed the company’s three stores in Sandton, Menlyn and Eastgate. Forman’s main focus when manufacturing jewellery was to deliver finely orchestrated workmanship and ensure production time and exceptional service. He trained well over 100 apprentices under his name, some of whom still work for the company today. In 1997 Forman gifted then President Nelson Mandela with a bronze sculpture entitled Freedom as a symbol of the struggle SA had overcome when apartheid ended and to pay homage to the struggle Mandela endured himself. This led to Madiba purchasing a gold sculpture of an ostrich for the then President of Botswana, Quett Masire, who owned an ostrich farm. Both pieces still exist in the Presidents’ respective family homes. Forman was also the creator of the famous 1932 Chevrolet which is a unique objet d’art, fashioned from 18ct gold. Its singularity is highlighted by its intricate detail. The oilstick, working suspension, air filter, sump nut,
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
door handles, windscreen wipers, water cap, spare tyres, steering mechanism and luggage trunk are among the movable and removable components, while the doors open and lock closed as well. Such detail transforms this model from mere aesthetic achievement and technical workmanship into an imaginative wonder. Meticulous attention to material is reflected throughout the car. Not only did Forman use rubber tyres to add to the realism, but the windscreen is cut, polished and fitted from rock crystal. In addition, Forman hand-crafted the famous gold antique pistol duelling set. Exuding an air of antiquity, this exclusive set epitomises artistic perfection. Encrusted with diamonds, carved from ivory and skilfully forged from 18ct gold, the two guns, powder horn and bullet forming pliers bear testimony to the creative brilliance of Sid Forman. The work reflects his passion for realism, culminating in a functional set of pistols unlike any other.
Forman’s many accolades include the 1999 Shining Lights Award for Excellence in Diamond Jewellery Design, the 1999 Anglo Gold Riches of Africa Award, the 2000/2001 Shining Lights Award for Excellence in Diamond Jewellery Design and an Award for Superiority in Jewellery Design in the Professional Designer Category in Jewellex in 1999. He also won Stand of the Year at Jewellex from 1990-1993. Forman is survived by Lorraine and six children. “Sid had a heart of gold. His selflessness and moral ethics were shared not only with his family and friends, but with his work colleagues, clients and employees,” says Juliette Rout, Marketing Manager at Sid Forman. “I knew Sid for 30 years. He served on many committees and was very well respected in the industry,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA. “I admired and regarded him very highly and he will be sorely missed.”
In 1997 Forman gifted Nelson Mandela with a bronze sculpture entitled Freedom as a symbol of the struggle SA had overcome when apartheid ended and to pay homage to the struggle Mandela endured himself. 19
TRAINING
Cut the training budget immediately!
SALES ARE DOWN AND WE SIMPLY CANNOT afford to spend money on “nice-to-haves” such as training, so we are cutting it out of the budget. Is this what you would do? Is it what you have done? Many of my clients have lamented that they feel 2019 requires them to put in twice the effort to yield the same results as before. So, to maintain the status quo, you either have to work harder to improve your turnover, drastically cut down on unnecessary expenses or employ a strategy that combines both approaches. But where do you start? After much deliberation and education of the market, most businessowners have now reached the point where they refrain from chanting that the market-
Anna-Mart Rossouw, Sales Conversion Specialist at Paramount Consulting, shares a few important reasons why training should never be stopped – especially when times are tough. ing budget be cut as a first port of call, because the logic rings true: “Without customers, you don’t have a business.” However, the jury is still out as to whether you can afford to spend money on frivolous training when times are hard – and times certainly are hard! Many business-owners decide to place all their training interventions on hold the moment the going gets tough. Is this the correct approach? When things are difficult and growth seems impossible, making sound business decisions becomes crucial to protect your liquidity, turnover and profit. When there is no money available to allocate to a luxury, you have to
stop spending on anything other the absolute necessities. This is Business 101. So, is training a luxury? If it is, it should be the first item to be cut from the budget. What is a luxury item? The dictionary defines it as: “A product that is not essential, but desired and associated with wealthy or af-
If you train your staff for any reason other than improving your bottom line (ie, improving your turnover, profitability, sustainability and enhancing the productivity of your team), then you are paying for an unnecessary indulgence and training should be placed on the back burner until you have the cash flow to spend on this ‘luxury’. 20
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
fluent people. Luxury items are bought for various reasons, such as supporting self-worth and status.” I bet that during a cash flow crisis, you feel anything but “wealthy and affluent”. I am sure, however, that you want to do what is best for your business and the people in it and for that reason, training your staff remains a priority. We could all give nice, warm and fuzzy reasons for training our staff, such as: “To empower the people in our organisation” or: “To invest in our staff complement”. These are noble – but splurging on empowering your staff when belts need to be tightened is poor financial management. There are various other reasons managements send their staff for training, such as to have their employees “fixed” by a training facilitator due to a perceived bad attitude or lack of work performance. The truth of the matter is that if the lack of productivity or poor performance is not due to a lack of knowledge, then training will simply have no effect. Your staff will remain “broken” even after a facilitator waves a magic wand over them. Training is in most instances a proactive tool, not a reactive whip. Employees who somehow seem “defective” to management are often symptoms of an unhealthy company culture, which includes failing to create an environment that is conducive to performance and keeping staff highly accountable for the role they play in your organisation. So should training wait until your budget looks healthy again? If you train your staff for any reason other than improving your bottom line (ie, improving your turnover, profitability, sustainability and enhancing the productivity of your team), then you are paying for an unnecessary indulgence and training should be placed on the back burner until you have the cash flow to spend on this “luxury”. I always laugh when I hear trainers talk their clients into “investing in training”, as I wonder how they will guarantee their clients’ investment. I, too, tell my clients to invest in training. What is an investment? The dictionary defines it as: “The action or process of investing money for profit”. This sentence is key! Training should have only one purpose: to increase turnover and improve profitability through the efforts of your staff. If this is the objective, then training becomes a top priority, especially in times when your business is struggling. Training is then the intervention your company needs to thrive. Removing it from your budget would be a grave mistake. The crucial considerations should be what your reason is for training the staff and whether the facilitator can deliver on the mandate
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
Specialising in Jewellery Skills Training to Industry Standards
you gave them. The following things need to be noted: 1. Ensure that you know the status quo. This sounds like a ridiculous statement. Of course, you know the status quo – you currently live the status quo! However, I am often shocked at how many of my clients do not know the basic statistics that impact their business – foot traffic, conversion rate, average sale, turnover per consultant. Without accurate statistics, you might be moving, but you have no idea where you are departing from or where you are going. 2. Choose the right training facilitator. Here are some tips: a. Do they insist on sales statistics? A trainer who is truly in it for you wants your sales statistics to improve. The only way they can tell whether the training is successful is by measuring the important indicators accurately. b. Do they give you a tailored product or do they take a one-size-fits-all approach? It is no use teaching your staff how to sell washing machines in the USA if they are selling jewellery in SA. A trainer who is obsessed with your business takes the time to understand it intimately before developing a product that will address your unique business needs. c. Do they offer post-training support? If so, go full steam ahead and rather cut that cocktail party out of the budget. That, too, is Business 101.
Small Business Development and Incubation Jewellery and Corporate Gift Manufacture Supported by
CONTACT US 011 825 5822 ejpmarketing@ejewellery.org.za www.ejpjewellery.com
DIAMONDS
GIA spots naturalsynthetic hybrid diamond The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has discovered a synthetic layer that improves the weight and colour of a natural diamond and has warned that the phenomenon may be happening more often. THE CUSHION-MODIFIED, BRILLIANT 0,64CT stone contained about 0,10ct of chemical vapour deposition (CVD) diamond, the GIA estimated in a lab note recently. The labgrown layer was greyish-blue, in contrast to the natural section’s yellowish colour, giving the combined stone a fancy-greyish-greenish-blue appearance. This was not the first time a stone of this type has turned up at the GIA: in 2017 it reported on a 0,33ct fancy-blue diamond that featured a CVD overgrowth similar to this one. “With the second of these composites seen at GIA, this could be a new type of product entering the market,” Research Associate Troy Ardon and Analytics Technician Garrett McElhenny wrote in the note, which the GIA published in the Spring 2019 issue of its quarterly scientific journal, Gems & Gemology. “The resulting colour was likely the main motivation for growing the CVD layer on top of the natural diamond, though the extra weight gained could also be a factor.” The stone’s unusual nature came to light after testing indicated it had features of both type Ia and type IIb diamonds – a rare combination. It appeared to have absorbed both nitrogen – a feature of type Ia diamonds that gives yellow colour – and boron, which is present in type IIb stones and can turn them blue. “Mixed-type diamonds always call for additional scrutiny,” Ardon and McElhenny explained.
The pavilion – the section from the girdle to the bottom – showed natural growth features during fluorescence testing with DiamondView, a De Beers machine for identifying synthetics. However, the crown displayed characteristics of CVD, proving that manufacturers had grown CVD diamond over a natural base. Using computer modelling, the research team was able to calculate the weight of the synthetic part as approximately one10th of a carat. The stone was well disguised: numerous readings of its photoluminescence showed no indication of any synthetic origin, despite the fact that such tests are usually effective at revealing CVD. This may be because the lab-grown layer was so thin, the note pointed out. “Natural diamonds with synthetic dia-
mond grown on the surface require extra scrutiny due to the presence of naturallooking features, both spectroscopic and gemmological,” the authors continued. “Careful inspection still reveals the presence of synthetic indicators, which expose the true nature of the diamond.”
Established in 1931, the GIA is one of the world’s foremost authorities on diamonds, coloured stones and pearls. A public benefit, non-profit institute, the GIA is a leading source of knowledge, standards and education in gems and jewellery. Since the 1930s, GIA researchers have made many innovative contributions to the understanding of gems.
The stone was well disguised: numerous readings of its photoluminescence showed no indication of any synthetic origin, despite the fact that such tests are usually effective at revealing CVD. This may be because the lab-grown layer was so thin, the note pointed out. 22
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
WORK
WHY ADVERTORIALS
WHAT IS AN ADVERTORIAL?
An advertorial is an advertisement in the form of editorial content.
[Advertorial] = [Advertisement] + [editorial] Essentially, it’s your words, promoting your company or
How to put an advertorial together?
product…but it almost looks like a regular article in the
An advertorial is more detailed than an advertisement
magazine. It’s essentially an advert, that walks, talks
helping potential costumers understand more about
and acts like an editorial. And when your advertorial
your company or product.
looks like the rest of the magazine, you are able to use the connection that the magazine already has with its readers. In that way you are able to reach the readers more directly with your message. The difference between editorial and an advertorial is that regular editorial is the impartial viewpoint of the
When writing an advertorial: • Focus on good content. The key selling point of the advertorial is the credibility it has “borrowed” from the publication it appears in. • Write an engaging headline.
publication’s writer, it is not the writer’s duty to promote
• Understand the product/brand.
any one company – an advertorial or advertising does
• Use a byline and photos.
that. In an advertorial a company can make claims that is applicable to the company, something the publication’s writer cannot do in regular editorial or
• Write an advertorial people will read. • Tell a story.
news as the editorial team cannot vouch for a private company. All advertorials will carry a small strap at
Or get the capable writing team at SA Jewellery News
the top indicating that it is an advertorial.
to write it for you.
ADVERTORIALS WORK. Book yours in SA Jewellery News now. Advertorial rates are the same as SA Jewellery News’ normal advertising rates. Assistance with writing and layout will be done at no extra cost.
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LITTLE GEMS
The ethereal beauty of moonstone A so-called “moonstone” (a large diamond of Indian origin, found in the forehead of a statue of a deity) was the central feature in British novelist Wilkie Collins’ The Woman in White. However, a moonstone is actually not a diamond, but a semiprecious stone with distinctive characteristics. Alice Weil explores its properties and the lore surrounding this gem. MOONSTONE OWES ITS name to its almost magical bluish-white shimmer. This closely resembles that of the moon – a phenomenon due to its structural pattern, referred to by gemmologists as adularescence – a word derived from the ancient city of Adular (now St Gotthard) in Switzerland, one of the first known sources of the gem. Tiny inclusions of a sodium aluminium silicate are mixed with the host rock layers of a potassium aluminium silicate. The different layers of feldspar form a layer of scaly substance which cause the interference of light as it enters the stone. Moonstone is typically colourless, but can also occur in several shades, including grey, mocha, brown, yellow, orange-green, pink, blue and white. The best-known colour, however, is bluish-white. Sri Lanka’s moonstone is considered the most valuable, while India’s exudes a cloud-like light which makes it very valuable. The gem has an attractive vitreous to pearly lustre when cut and polished. Moonstone is almost always cut in cabochon in order to maximise the effects of adularescence. The cut is usually decided according to the height of the stone and is very important, which is why most are cut with a high dome. The cutter must locate the crystal axis precisely in order to achieve a perfect orientation. An oval shape tends to preserve the most caratage and weight. However, in rare cases, a highly transparent stone might be faceted. The stone does not need to be treated or enhanced in any way. Feldspar are the most abundant minerals on our planet, making up approximately 60% of the earth’s crust. This means there are
24
many moonstone-related gems, including the cat’s-eye moonstone, which is quite rare and generally pale yellow. Compared with other gems, moonstone is neither hard nor durable and requires care. For example, if one dusts off the stone, its surface could be scratched, as dust often contains quartz. Chemicals or cleaners should not be used either: simply rinse the stone under warm water. It is also sensitive to pressure and should not be set in tensionstyle mountings. It is best kept separately from other gems and jewellery. According to Hindu mythology, the gemstone is made of solidified moonbeams. Many other cultures also associate it with moonlight because of the way its inner structure scatters the light that strikes it – like the full moon shining through thin, high clouds. Hindu priests have dedicated their lives to recovering the stone, which is supposed to bring good fortune. One is also supposed to be able to see the future if one places the stone in one’s mouth during the full moon (not recommended!).
Designers of the Art Nouveau period who tended towards Romanticism, such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, featured the gem in their custom-made jewellery. Lalique, who had worked for Parisian jewellers Cartier and Boucheron before opening his own studio, was renowned for his opalescent glass pieces – as was Tiffany – and was intrigued by the subtle light emitted by moonstones. His rare pieces are today only found in museums. His well-known corsage ornament, Dragonfly Woman, contained gold, enamel, chrysophase and diamonds, as well as moonstones. One of Tiffany’s masterpieces was a retro Greek-inspired necklace with moonstone collets suspended in gold wirework and pliqueà-jour enamelling. The moonstone was also a favourite of the arts and crafts movement in the late 19th century, particularly in handcrafted silver pieces. The “flower children” of the 1960s loved it, as it provided the ethereal look which they popularised and designers of the New Age movement found inspiration in its natural beauty. Top-quality moonstone can show a remarkable “three-dimensional” depth of colour which no other gemstone can replicate.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2019
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A round table discussion on the subject of synthetic diamonds vs natural diamonds took place at 14h00 yesterday at the Metcon coffee shop. Ernie Blom of Blom Diamonds and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C and Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion while Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and Communications and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator.
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