SAJN

south african jewellery news

The industry's only trade journal

Watch & clock supplement 2012

SPINNING BIRTHSTONE RINGS NOW AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA

JANUARY Garnet

FEBRUARY Amethyst

MARCH Aquamarine

APRIL Diamond

Most people are familiar with zodiac mythology, but the fact that the months of the year also have their own gemstone is news to many.

Birthstones, an alternative name for the series’ gemstones, are traditionally seen as good luck charms for those born in the relevant month and are reputed to have healing and protective properties.

Choose your own personal Birthstone ring according to the month in which you were born. Or choose a gemstone with the properties you need and which these special birthstones can provide.

All Spinning Birthstone rings are made of Sterling silver and has the name of the month engraved on the backside.

MAY Emerald

JUNE Pearl

JULY Ruby

AUGUST Peridot

Spinning Jewelry is a Danish self-assembly concept in Sterling Silver, Gold, Gemstones, and Pearls.

SEPTEMBER Sapphire

OCTOBER Tourmaline

NOVEMBER Citrine

DECEMBER Turquoise

For trade queries contact Sutherland & Goodman (Pty)Ltd (011) 483 0102. Email : info@sutherlandgoodman.co.za

Exquisite natural beauty and outstanding craftsmanship makes Protea the pick of the bunch.

3rd Floor, West Tower, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, South Africa Tel: (+2711) 484-7205 Fax: (+2711) 484-3055 eland@proteadiamonds.co.za

Room 605, Noam Building, Diamond Exchange, Ramat Gan, Israel Tel: (+9723) 751-8460 Fax: (+9723) 751-4627

Room 709, Noam Building, Diamond Exchange, Ramat Gan, Israel Tel: (+9723) 752-9013 Fax: (+9723) 752-9065

Room 810, Noam Building, Diamond Exchange, Ramat Gan, Israel Tel: (+9723) 600-5546 Fax: (+9723) 600-5547

170 Buitengracht Street, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa Tel: (+2721) 424-2002 Fax: (+2721) 424-4554 omril@proteadiamonds.co.za

Rooms 411-414, 30/38 Hoveniersstraat, Antwerp B-2018, Belgium Tel: (+323) 233-4640 Fax: (+323) 233-9608

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents 16. SAJN speaks tO stewart arvan, Md Of treGer Brands

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India):

19. swIss-Made – a sensItIve Issue

Bhupal Potdar E-mail: bhupal.potdar@publicitas.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):

21. aMerIcan raIlrOad watches

Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer

7. news • South African “responsible gold” initiative launched • Sutherland & Goodman celebrates 30 years of servicing the industry

22. exceptIOnal tIMepIeces recalled 25. Brand releases

• Export price per carat of polished diamonds declined in April 2012

• Something blue for the bride

• Chris van Rensburg steps down as chairman of JCSA

• The character of Pontos • Newport – top of the range

• Right of Admission – Jewellex Africa 2012

• Danish brand focuses on essentials • Watch designed to tackle extreme conditions

• Zimbabwean human rights activist Farai Maguwu to speak at Rapaport Las Vegas Conference

• Introducing Victorinox

E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

• Bridge brand débuts

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

31. the art Of MeasurInG tIMe

Printing: Colors

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

36. lIttle GeMs Edward and Alexandra – the Edwardian style

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT 2012 Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

14. BaselwOrld 2012: Greatest watch shOw Gets Greater

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

On the cover SEIKO ASTRON. The world's first GPS solar watch. At last, the search for totally precise time, everywhere on the planet, is over. Seiko has been able to create a watch that can receive GPS signals and identify time zone, time and date using the global network of GPS satellites.

It recognises all 39 time zones on Earth. This breakthrough timepiece is called Seiko Astron.

Like its celebrated 1969 predecessor which was the world's first quartz watch, the new Seiko

Watch & clock supplement 2012

Astron ushers in a new age of timekeeping technology.

5

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime.

Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world.

People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

NEWS

expOrt prIce per carat Of pOlIshed dIaMOnds declIned In aprIl 2012 According to the latest figures released by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), after a two-month rise in February and March 2012, the export price per carat of polished diamonds declined again in April 2012. In March 2012 the price per carat was US$2,113, while in April 2012 it descended to US$1,600.

The US dollar value of exports of polished diamonds in April 2012 decreased 6,69% to US$942 757 005 compared with April 2011.

There was also a decrease in volume terms.

During January-April 2012, the AWDC identified a decrease in volume terms of exports of polished goods of 21,57%, but a small rise in value of 1,62%.

For the import figures of polished diamonds, the AWDC says it can see the same trend. In April 2012, the US dollar value of imported polished diamonds declined 7,65% to US$931 210 023 compared with April 2011.

From January to April 2012 the AWDC identified an 11,15% decline in volume terms, but a 10,28% rise in value.

When looking at the export figures of rough diamonds, an increase of 17,07% in volume terms when comparing April 2011 and April 2012 was evident. There was also a rise in value from US$1 128 928 740 in April 2011 to US$1 195 263 517 in April 2012. In percentages that equals a 5,88% increase.

During the first four months of 2012, the

AWDC noted a 10,71% decline in volume terms to a year earlier, but a 3,26% increase in value to US$4 804 145 927.

The import figures of rough diamonds in value in April 2012 mark the biggest increase to exactly one year ago. In April 2011 the AWDC noted a value of US$857 285 002 while in April 2012 this figure equalled US$1 028 171 206, which implies a rise of no less than 19,93%. In volume terms the AWDC saw a decrease of 2,67%.

From January to April 2012 the rough import figures showed an increase of 6,43% in value, but a 13,68% decline in volume to 32 713 739,04 carats compared with the first four months in 2011.

General statistics (USD) AWDC Diamond Office

(Gross figures)

Polished diamonds Jan-Apr 2012

Jan-Apr 2011

Carat

USD

Carat

Export

2 365 887,71

4 514 799 673

3 016 694,45

Import

2 753 936,12

4 643 803 197

3 099 622,92

Difference

USD

Carat

USD

Apr 2012

Apr 2011

Difference

Carat

USD

Carat

USD

Carat

4 442 968 227 -21,57% 1,62%

588 939,43

942 757 005

672 822,97

1 010 297 688 -12,47% -6,69%

USD

4 210 853 093 -11,15% 10,28%

640 304,03

931 210 023

668 584,67

1 008 383 081 -4,23% -7,65%

Rough diamonds Jan-Apr 2012 Carat

USD

Jan-Apr 2011 Carat

Difference

USD

Carat

USD

Export

36 766 885,38 4 804 145 927 41 179 109,06 4 652 685 221 -10,71%

3,26%

Import

32 713 739,04 4 509 030 287 37 899 005,70 4 236 677 582 -13,68% 6,43%

Apr 2012 Carat

Apr 2011 USD

Carat

Difference USD

Carat

8 272 288,00 1 195 263 517 7 066 218,14 1 128 928 740 17,07% 6 826 087,47 1 028 171 206 7 013 544,43

Rough = 7 102,10+7 102,21+7 102,31

857 285 002

USD 5,88%

-2,67% 19,93%

Based on country of provenance and country of destination

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GIA Education and Laboratory (Pty) Ltd Suite 512, 5th Floor, S.A. Diamond Centre 225 Main Street Johannesburg 2001 South Africa T 27 11 334 2744 F 27 11 334 0932 E giasouthafricalab@gia.edu www.gia.edu

NEWS

sutherland & GOOdMan celeBrates 30 years Of servIcInG the Industry Sutherland & Goodman, distributor of leading brands Hirsch, Thomas Sabo, Nomination, Connoisseur and Spinning Jewelry, is celebrating its 30th anniversary this month.

The concept of the company was the brainchild of David Goodman and Doug Sutherland and in June 1982 Sutherland & Goodman was officially registered and attained the rights to distribute Hirsch, a leading watchstrap brand, locally.

With offices in the Tiessens building in Braamfontein, Johannesburg, the company appointed Moira Bell as its first employee and in 1983 employed the services of a driver, Johannes Kgaotime. Both Moira and Johannes are still employed with the company after 30 years. “We value the service and loyalty we receive from our staff,” says David. “We also believe that they enjoy being part of the team, which is evident in 251 years' combined employment.” Goodman’s father, Sydney, joined the company two years later to head its accounts department.

In 1994, the company moved to bigger premises in Braamfontein and brought with it a new sales team in the form of Lynne Allnut, Ella Heap and Felicity Glauser. A year later, it

started distributing additional brands, including Roamer and Camel watches, Metal Core Bangles and its crystal brands, namely Lencia Crystal, Noblese and Geo Steinbach.

David and Doug came to a decision to go their separate ways in 1998. David stayed on heading Sutherland & Goodman, while Doug started his own venture, taking with him the watch brands. Hylton Fivelman joined David and together they took the company to new heights. The company grew progressively and moved to Bedford Centre, while also appointing the services of a bigger sales team.

In 2004, Sutherland & Goodman acquired the rights to distribute Hot Diamonds and with this moved to Orange Grove, where it is still situated today.

Renowned brands Thomas Sabo and Connoisseur joined its stable in 2005, followed

by Nomination in 2009 and Spinning Jewelry in 2011.

Hylton passed away in 2011, leaving David at the reins of the company. After 30 years, the company remains one of the leading industry players and looks forward to servicing its clients for many years still to come.

(Above, from top): Moira Bell has been with the company for 30 years; Doug Sutherland and David Goodman started the company in 1982.

Cape Town: Tel 021 510 0770, Fax 021 510 0778 GauTenG: 0861 MeTalS (0861 638 257) Durban: Cell 082 789 3882

antwerp welcOMes sOuth afrIca's MInIster Of MIneral resOurces On 16 May, an official delegation led

by HE Shabangu, Minister of Mineral Resources of South Africa, was welcomed

by AWDC’s vice-president Stephane Fischler and AWDC CEO, Ari Epstein.

The visit of the high-level delegation underscores the excellent relationships South Africa and Antwerp have enjoyed for over a century, as both can be historically situated at the cradle of the modern diamond business as we know it today.

In the past, Antwerp also had the pleasure to welcome former president Thabo Mbeki, during the 2004 Antwerp Diamond Conference and current president, Jacob Zuma, during a special gala event in September 2010.

AWDC’s CEO, Ari Epstein, said: “South Africa and Antwerp, though at opposite ends of the globe, share much common ground. Let’s not forget that more than 60% of the world’s diamond production originates from the African continent. In addition, South Africa continues to be a role model for so many other African countries and stakeholders, a position Antwerp is happy to support as the world’s prime diamond trading hub. Moreover, we believe Antwerp can be a significant partner to the entire African continent in terms of a global, sustainable diamond trade, for example through the UN-supported ITCCO here in Antwerp.”

ZIMBaBwean huMan rIGhts actIvIst faraI MaGuwu tO speak at rapapOrt las veGas cOnference

tilable r o pp ava

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s

e i t i un iSt

k Stoc

Farai Maguwu, the award-winning Zimbabwean human rights activist, will lead a special session at the Rapaport Fair Trade Jewellery Conference on Sunday, 3 June, at 10h00 in the Banyan Room, Mandalay Bay Hotel during the JCK Las Vegas Jewellery Show.

Maguwu, director of the Centre for Research and Development in Zimbabwe, has been at the forefront of human rights advocacy in that country. He has risked his life and freedom to inform the world of the horrific human rights abuses taking place in the Marange diamond fields.

In May 2010, Maguwu’s house was raided by Zimbabwean authorities and he was arrested on false charges after giving information to the Kimberley Process monitor. Despite being sent to prison and denied proper medical care for over a month, Maguwu emerged dedicated and committed to ensuring the rights of Marange diggers. In November 2011 Maguwu was honoured by Human Rights Watch with the Alison Des Forges Award for Extraordinary Activism.

“Farai Maguwu is a true human rights hero who has risked his life to protect the lives, freedom and human rights of diamond diggers. He is someone every ethical person in the diamond industry should support, honour and emulate. As an industry and as individuals, we must stand up and proclaim that the sanctity of life and the human rights of diggers are more important to us than diamond profits. I encourage every member of our industry to meet Farai Maguwu and support his goals,” notes Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group.

The Rapaport Fair Trade Conference will be followed by a special lunch honouring Maguwu. Those wishing to participate can email: fairtrade@diamonds.net.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

NEWS

hrd antwerp cOMpletes Internal revIew HRD Antwerp has announced that its board has received the results of the internal reviews of the diamond laboratory and has confirmed the remedial actions taken by management. It has further decided to pass the entire dossier to the judicial authorities for a further examination on possible legal infringements.

The HRD Antwerp board declared that the internal quality control review has been concluded on a positive note. “We have been able to localise the causes and sources of the grading improprieties and have found that they solely involve only a few individuals and companies. HRD Antwerp has proven it has the skills and the corporate will to investigate its own possible breaches of the rules and that it can take effective actions to prevent recurrence and to reassure the market of the total integrity of its HRD Antwerp brand,” says HRD Antwerp’s general manager Georges Brys.

“As HRD Antwerp’s own investigation was fully focused on its internal quality controls and staff adherence to the strict grading rules, the HRD Antwerp board unanimously felt that all the findings of the internal investigations should be passed on to the appropriate authorities.

All staff members have received unequivocal

instructions to fully co-operate.” Meanwhile three diamond firms have been asked to clear their account at HRD Antwerp.

It has previously been announced that the boards of both the AWDC and HRD Antwerp had appointed an ad hoc committee of prominent industry leaders and academics to guide the internal review and that the services of a specialised firm was ordered to perform an independent forensic audit in the HRD Antwerp diamond lab. Since the internal investigations have been completed, the ad hoc committee has ceased to exist. The HRD Antwerp management has expressed its gratitude to the hard and diligent work undertaken by the committee.

Brys believes that the swift reaction of HRD Antwerp has strengthened the organisation and provided a further boost to the standing of the HRD Antwerp brand. “Our policy of absolutely zero tolerance of any possible irregularity remains firmly rooted in our culture. And this is based on the adherence of the management and staff to the strict ISO and other internal rules. We can now go back to business as usual – strengthened and more determined to give our stakeholders the highest-quality product.”

GIa’s quarterly jOurnal avaIlaBle free On Ipad All of the peer-reviewed research on diamonds, coloured stones and pearls presented in Gems & Gemology (G&G) is now available on the iPad. The new G&G app complements the Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) quarterly journal and is downloadable free on iTunes.

The Spring 2012 issue is the first G&G available on the app.

“The interactive nature of this app makes keeping up with gemmology fun and easy,” said Jan Iverson, editor-in-chief of G&G. “The print issue will remain, so the iPad app is really an extension of our educational outreach.”

NEWS

sOuth afrIcan “respOnsIBle GOld” InItIatIve launched OroAfrica, one of South Africa’s leading fine jewellery manufacturers, in collaboration with Rand Refinery, the world’s largest singlesite refinery, recently launched a unique “responsible gold” initiative.

OroAfrica’s Purelove, Legacy and Absolute wedding band collections are the only fine gold jewellery ranges which guarantee certified traceability and full chain of custody from “mine to refine to retail”. Each wedding band is crafted on site at Rand Refinery utilising Randpure-certified “responsible gold” and is independently audited to heed the requirements as set by recognised bodies and recently enacted legislation, namely the World Gold Council, USA Dodd-Frank Act, the Responsible Jewellery Council, the London Bullion Market Association and the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development.

The certified responsible gold used is guaranteed to be conflict-free, child labour- and human rights abuse-free

and is sourced in accordance with internationally accepted environmental practices.

Each ring features a unique gold batch number. To verify the authenticity and trace the origin of the gold, a QR (quick response) code is featured which can be scanned on a smart mobile device, providing access to the website.

All packaging and marketing material is sourced in a responsible and sustainable manner.

“We are immensely proud of our initiative which positions OroAfrica and Rand Refinery at the cutting edge of this concerted global drive to promote responsible, ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices across the jewellery supply chain, in a transparent and accountable manner,” says Stan Lurie, Strategy and New Business Development Executive.

rIGht Of adMIssIOn – jewellex afrIca 2012 The Jewellex Africa 2012 Committee has taken the decision that no person will be allowed entry into Jewellex without a valid business card and ID document. “Having an invitation from an exhibitor or the organisers does not ensure automatic entrance into the show,” says Lorna Lloyd of the Jewellery Council of South Africa. “Jewellers, however, will be allowed to bring their families and children as they have done in the past.”

Jewellex is a trade exhibition and does not support trade with end users/private individuals.

chrIs van rensBurG steps dOwn as chaIrMan Of jcsa After serving as chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) for more than four years, Chris van Rensburg has resigned from this position.

Van Rensburg started his service in the JCSA as chairman of the Manufacturers Association where, through active involvement, he grew the association from a membership of around 60 to a current complement close to 200.

In addition, under his leadership the council grew from 1 200 to close on 1 500 members.

The Chairman’s Fund of the JCSA was also formed through his initiative. The fund has already benefited numerous underprivileged individuals in support of careers in the jewellery industry.

“His dedication has been an inspiration to all of us and we will sincerely miss his candour and active participation in the EXCO and board meetings,” says Lorna Lloyd, COO of the council. “Chris remains a Jewellery Council member, but is taking time off from official duties for a while. We wish him the best of luck with all his endeavours and look forward to his participation as a member in the future.”

A new chairman will be elected by the board at their next meeting on 27 June 2012.

12

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

supplement

Watch & clock SupplEmENt

Greatest watch show gets greater The greatest show on earth (with apologies to former circus owners Barnum & Bailey) in the watch and jewellery industry, Baselworld, is about to get even greater.

UPCOMING CHANGES WERE ALREADy apparent at this year’s event, which will be completed by April 2013, heralding a new chapter in the show’s long history for what is undoubtedly the industry’s most important event. The infrastructure for the new hall above the existing Hall 3, in the form of an overhead walkway across the Messeplatz, is already completed and the new facility will provide a total of 141 000 m2 for exhibitors. It will be completed in time for next year’s show opening on 25 April 2013.

Despite hard times, at the current 40th edition of the show, the industry appeared to be

14

holding up well and there was a distinct buzz and an atmosphere of enthusiasm. There were 104 300 recorded visitors representing an increase of 1% over last year. Indicative of its importance in the industry was the presence of 3 320 journalists from around the world (a 9% increase) and the 1 815 exhibitors from 41 countries who filled an exhibition area of 160 000 m2.

And despite budgets, Swiss watch brands continue to innovate and have turned to the revival of vintage models recalling their historic background in watchmaking, reinterpreting movements and two-tone versions in black, white or silver. There were over 300 Swiss brands on the show which tend to dominate Baselworld, perhaps because many of them are in prominent positions in glamorous Hall 1 with

its architectural aweinspiring wonders.

The “star” of the show was undoubtedly the mechanical watch, frequently with openwork movements. Vintage models were a source of inspiration for Swiss watchmakers who drew on their heritage, creating their new designs according to the whims of fashion. But these designs from their glorious past were reviewed and amended according to contemporary aesthetics, reprising models from the 1950s and '60s. Cases, however, were ultra-thin with a view to compact, but useful functions.

While returning to their roots, mechanisms were nevertheless improved, presenting automatic movements. Tissot produced its Le Locle Automatic Chronometer edition with a COSC-certified movement featuring a transparent case-back and guillochédial visible through the sapphire crystal, bearing witness to its heritage. This is available in two versions – two-tone or pink gold PVDcoated steel with understated elegance.

In a ladies' model, Corum paid tribute to its Admiral’s Cup heritage with Mystery Moon which has a mother-of-pearl dial (in white or black) and registers moon-phases, its bezel adorned with 72 diamonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

Watch & clock SupplEmENt

Inspired by its birthplace, Saint Imier, Longines drew for inspiration on its watchmaking traditions of the brand’s centuries-old past (established since 1832) to produce a 39 mm diameter chronograph equipped with a column wheel which has a silver-tinted dial.

By and large, these classic heritage models were set in a round case, as was Frederique Constant’s Double Heartbeat Black Beauty, its bezel emblazoned with diamonds. And cases were definitely smaller, especially in classic designs, indicating that “bigger is not necessarily better”.

While last year’s show emphasised bright colours, this theme has abated somewhat. The main theme appeared to be black with touches of blue – on the dial, numerals or hands, for example.

Pink gold, however, has retained its popularity and seems to be “in” – here to stay for a long ride. Complications abound and the favourite remains the stopwatch/chronograph.

A chronograph is a timepiece which indicates the time of day in hours, minutes and seconds, but also has additional mechanisms which can measure continuous or elapsed intervals of time from fractions of a second up to 12 hours, in some cases. Those on show – and there were many – include fractions of a second and hour read-outs.

Among the watch collections dedicated to sport, different types emerged at Baselworld, some with additional functions. For example, TAG-Heuer’s Mikrogirder – visible through the dial – is a concept watch equipped with a dual frequency system that ensures precision through two independent chains. This high speed reduces wear and tear on the watch.

Additionally, readability is optimised. The smallest fraction of time is displayed on a central hand that does a complete revolution around the dial 20 times per second. However, three separate scales allow for quick and easy reading of seconds 5/10 000ths or 1/200th of a second. This makes it about 250 times faster than an ordinary watch, taking timing to new heights – at 7 200 000 of a second beats per hour. This is a breakthrough in high-frequency performance mechanical engineering.

The tourbillon is an exclusive mechanical movement which represents the highest elements of watchmaking. One would have thought it represented a very limited market but, surprisingly, there was a visibly increased number of this high-watchmaking feature on show. Among them was De Grisogono’s

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

tourbillon, which displayed its newest creation for women in a diamond-studded, ovalshaped model in white gold sparkling with 5 carats of the white gems.

Big date display on the dial seems to be a popular additional feature which enables the date to be read at a glance. Simultaneously, it is an additional attraction on the dial – a feature in the 1930s and '40s which resurged in the '90s. It has made a comeback and many brands today offer this. Glasshütte Original was one of the first to revive this and has featured it in its stainless steel Senator Observer with a panoramic date function at 6 o’clock.

The award-winning Paris Royal collection from French brand Pequinet, which is classical and traditional, now available in stainless steel, also has a big date display and additionally a large day display on the dial. This brand also focused on the double rotor in a new contemporary style which has an architectural form. In this model the upper rotor is in the form of a ring which rotates above the selfwinding double-rotor movement around the dial in its Turbine XL watch set in a 50 mm solid rose gold case. The movement is visible through the sapphire case-back in this new interpretation.

The visible popularity of rose gold proved that this is no fashion whim, albeit in some cases as PVD or IP coating. It remains so for both sexes, perhaps because it has warmth, as opposed to yellow gold. These processes are invariably on a base of stainless steel. A spattering of brown coating seems to be a trend, as seen in Movado’s Luna Collection Hermes played with a collection in a strong blue. While the overall use of bright colours seems confined to fashion and sporty watches, more subdued splashes of colour do appear on the dials, hands and even on the back of straps. And, incidentally, there is a marked use of silicon for straps, which is apparently softer and longer-lasting than leather.

Ceramic remains a popular material for cases and bracelets, but now in a matte version. Mother-of-pearl is a favourite for dials, especially in dressier morels. There was something for all tastes and uses – from the glitz of Swarovski’s crystal-laden models (which included men’s models) to the clean, uncluttered, Nordic look of Obaku and Skagen.

Undoubtedly, Baselworld remains the annual high point in the calendar of events pertaining to the watch industry, in particular.

(Far left): From the Longines Sait-Imier Collection is this vintage watch inspired by a model from 1945.

(Top left, from left): A concept watch from TAG-Heuer – the brand’s remarkable Mikrogirder equipped with a dual frequency system; big date and crown are features of this Oris grey PVD-coated stainless steel which has a dark grey dial with Superluminova-enhanced numerals; this tourbillon timepiece from De Grisogono has two barrels and vibrates at 28 800 beats per hour, making it a gem of highly sophisticated watchmaking.

(Left, from top): Oris' latest timepiece with big date crown; a new release from French brand Pequiqnet.

Despite hard times, at the current 40th edition of the show, the industry appeared to be holding up well and there was a distinct buzz and an atmosphere of enthusiasm.

15

Watch & clock SupplEmENt

Time for technology The advance in timekeeping technology has been remarkable and continues unabated, with functions undreamed of years ago. Stewart Arvan, executive director of Treger Brands, a company that distributes two watch brands which focus on complications, is an enthusiastic “technocrat”. He discusses this amazing progress in watchmaking before and since he entered the industry.

FROM THE 15TH CENTURy, WITH ITS SPRINGdriven pocket watch, until the advent of the wrist watch in the 1920s – after World War I when soldiers found it inconvenient to use them and tied them to their wrists with a band – through the mastery of the mechanical movement by the Swiss and the wearing of decorative gold watches during the second half of the 20th century, to the quartz watch revolution which changed the face of timekeeping, technology has played an important role in the development of the industry.

After the 1970s, when the mechanical watch industry had been consolidated in Switzerland, quartz watches were the “musthaves” and were produced in great numbers.

Styling and marketing were of the utmost importance. While quartz is still an integral part of the market, there has been a swing towards mechanical timekeeping again – but with increased functions (known as complications) through the amazing advances in technology.

Some watches, both mechanical and electronic, are powered by the movement of the wearer’s arm – for example, Seiko’s Spring Drive. This mechanism turns a rotating weight which causes a tiny generator to supply power to recharge a battery. Seiko has been one of the leaders in watch technology and has played a critical role since it released the first quartz watch on the world market with its Astron model in 1969.

In 1980 the brand unveiled its first kinetic prototype, which converted kinetic movement

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into electrical energy. This was a powerful technological advance – a historic achievement which more than 20 years later was used in the brand’s kinetic chronograph.

Spring Drive, introduced in 2005, was a movement which produced 72 hours of power compared with 40 hours at the time for mechanical watches. It used the power from the spring to turn the gear train and regulator and formed the basis for the firstever watch designed to be worn by an astronaut during his space walk.

The historical significance of the first quartz watch, Astron, has played a role in the naming of Seiko’s latest technical marvel, the solarpowered Astron GPS which can identify time zones anywhere on Earth at the push of a button (reviewed in our May issue). “It’s a truly global watch which can talk to satellites,” Arvan enthuses. The brand has applied for patents and so far 100 have been approved.

Although he was not involved in the marketing of watches at the time of the original Astron, Arvan’s enthusiasm for the brand prompts him to admire its innovative background and predict an exciting future for the GPS. “The secret is energy management in a regular watch of 47 mm diameter – it’s real,

here and now, and not just a technological announcement. It’s a beautiful watch – a normal quartz watch which once a day communicates with a satellite, in a collection of six pieces – a limited edition in titanium – which will be on the market in November.”

The combination of solar technology with GPS required years of painstaking research and development. “It’s the perfect watch to suit the lifestyle of the international traveller,” he predicts. Two years ago the advent of Astron's Hi-Beat Grand Seiko mechanical model represented a leap forward in watch technology, he recalls.

It vibrates at 36 000 beats, which Arvan believes was probably one of the highest at Baselworld and has a 55-hour power reserve. Its spring, made of a special alloy, ensures long-term accuracy.

He is also excited about the distributor's Timex brand and its Timex Ironman Global Trainer which can be customised according to a particular event. “It is built to meet the needs of the world’s most demanding endurance athletes,” he explains.

The technology of this watch gives the wearer pace, speed and distance information on his wrist and connects to heart rate sensors and bike sensors for power and cadence. Special multi-sport modes and on-line training software enable the refinement and review of the user’s performance. The watch also boasts an extended-life battery. “you are in tune with your body, with this watch,” he summarises, having personally experienced the advantages of its use. “you can download scientific data after the event – analyse and compare performance with a previous event and know whether you are progressing, as well as monitor your fitness.

In this way you become your own personal trainer, set goals and it becomes your training programme and takes out the guesswork regarding your performance,” he comments.

It is these innovations and technological advances that inspire enthusiasm among watch collectors and those of us involved in the watch industry in the never-ending process of learning more about horology and its technical progress.

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Watch & clock SupplEmENt

Swiss-made – a sensitive issue Products made in Switzerland have a reputation for quality. It is not surprising, therefore, that a watch that is labelled “Swiss-made” has a certain cachet. However, “Swiss-made” does not necessarily mean that the product is actually manufactured entirely by a Swiss company, even though – in some cases – it might have a manufacturing facility in Switzerland.

THERE ARE STRINGENT CONDITIONS LAID down for a watch that may be identified as “Swiss-made”. It’s a very sensitive issue, but not always understood by many involved in the marketing of watches. And it is a subject which, since 1971, has received much attention by the lawmakers of the Swiss government, as well as by the Federation Horlogére (FH) of Bienne, a non-profit organisation which oversees matters pertaining to the horological industry.

According to the FH, the use of the label “Swiss-made” on a watch must comply with certain conditions: only when it is actually a Swiss product may a watch carry the inscription “Swiss” or “Swiss-made”, or any other expression containing the word “Swiss” (or its translation) on the outside of the timepiece.

A watch is only considered to be Swiss if its movement is Swiss, its movement is cased up in Switzerland and the final inspection is carried out in that country by the manufacturer. “Swissmade” embodies a concept of technical quality forged over the years pertaining to accuracy, reliability, water-resistance and shock-resistance, as well as certain aesthetics, including originality of design. It covers both traditional manufacturing and new technologies.

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The intrinsic value of the Swiss-made label, therefore, is the result of considerable effort on the part of watchmaking companies. They are ultimately responsible for maintaining its reputation. For example, the Ronda Time Centre in Southern Switzerland is one of the companies which assembles watches for global customers under the Swiss-made label. The laws imposing a regulation on the use of this term have to be fulfilled before the word “Swiss-made” (or “Swiss”) can be applied to a watch and set out the minimum conditions applicable.

Such manufacturers of parts destined for foreign watches are authorised by law to visibly indicate that their products come from Switzerland. These innovations are intended to improve the transparency regarding the source of products. If the movement of a watch fulfils the requirements laid down, but the assembly is not carried out in Switzerland, the Swiss indication may not be affixed to one of the components, but the outside of the watch can carry the inscription: “movement Suisse”.

The Swiss readily admit that they are not the only makers of high-quality timepieces. In fact, they do not lay claim to the industry’s origins – that honour goes to France, from where the

industry overflowed into Geneva at the time of the restrictive Reformation and across the Jura mountains which separate these two countries.

But the combination of innovation and knowhow over the centuries has enabled the Swiss to maintain a leading position and they are justifiably proud of their long heritage and world-renowned brand names.

The Swiss-made name, however, is governed by two discreet sections of the country’s laws.

These apply to all types of Swiss products and relate to protection and particularly to watches. The legally defined standards which allow watch brands or watchmakers to label their products “Swiss-made” were codified in 1971 and define a minimum standard of what is required to permit the use of this term.

This largely depends on the “Swissness” of the watch, its brand and reputation. These conditions were modified by the Swiss Federal Council in 1995.

It may not be common knowledge among all involved in the industry, particularly at retail level, that a few Swiss watch companies have watches assembled in Hong Kong or on the Chinese mainland. These are destined for export to North America, Asia and even to Europe, where the brand name is of prime importance and the meaning of “Swiss-made” is immaterial. These are usually equipped with a Japanese movement, may have a Chinese case and crystal, a Taiwanese dial and metal bracelet and Japanese hands. The Swiss-made label may mean that the movement is assembled in Asia using kits consisting of at least partially Swissmade components.

It sounds like a minefield and efforts to strengthen the Swiss-made definition are normally spearheaded by the FH. Their efforts to strengthen the definition of “Swiss-made” and define the percentage of production costs for both Swiss and Swiss-made watches, which has been ongoing since 2007, are supported by the Rolex group’s Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA Montres and the Swatch Group.

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American railroad watches The last half of the 19th century in America saw the development of its railroads. They were instrumental in the opening up of the west and coincidentally responsible for one of the great American fortunes – that of the Vanderbilts.

INDUSTRIALIST AND PHILANTHROPIST CORnelius Vanderbilt built his wealth through transportation systems – shipping (including river-boats) and the railroads. This patriarch of the family was one of the richest men in American history and was involved in many of the earliest and widespread railroads in his country in the second half of the 19th century.

It was a time when Railroad Standard Watches or Railroad Chronometers, to be more accurate, became the specialised timepieces which were crucial for the safe operation of the trains. With the passing of time, the regulations became more widespread and specific. Railroads were responsible for the development of so-called railroad watches.

Brand names such as Waltham, Elgin and Hamilton were legion and in fact are still around today.

But what exactly are railroad watches and what makes them different from the early pocket watches which, of course in essence was what they were? The difference was the

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standard requirements stipulated for this application because their precise functioning was critical for safety reasons. The employees of the railroads who wore them were engineers, conductors and switch-yard controllers.

These strong regulations were instigated after a horrendous Ohio train wreck in 1891 which occurred because one of the engineers’ watches had stopped for four minutes.

This highlighted the need for extremely accurate timepieces. Time inspectors, usually watchmakers, were appointed to check the standard of the pocket watches and decided which would be used by railroad personnel, a practice which eventually was followed by almost all the railroad watch companies. The American Railway Association identified the fairly standardised set of requirements.

There are two types of pocket watches: those with an open face and hunter types, which had a strong hinged circular metal cover to protect them. It was the open-face variety which were favoured for railroad employees.

The need for accuracy was obviously to ensure no two trains could be on the same stretch of track at the same time. As soon as there were two trains on the same line, their movements could be controlled and only American watches were to be used.

Apart from being open-faced, they had to have a minimum of one functioning jewel in the movement – eventually finalised at 17, a size stipulation and a maximum variation of approximately four seconds per day (or 30 seconds per week) for which they were checked weekly. What is more, each watch was checked in the five positions which it might conceivably adopt within a pocket and various other stringent mechanical requirements were recorded.

Both the products of the Waltham Watch Company and the Elgin Watch Company were used as early as the 1860s and ‘70s as standard railroad watches. They were the highestgrade timepieces made and have become collector’s items. Many other American watch companies, all of whom produced railroadgraded watches, including Hamilton, are still manufacturers of wristwatches today.

The last Standard Railroad pocket watch by Hamilton made in the USA was in continuous production from 1941 until 1969, when production ceased by the company, with 500 000 watches having been produced.

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Exceptional timepieces recalled There are certain timepieces which hold a special place in the annals of watch- and clockmaking history such as the Atmos, a clock that does not need a winding mechanism.

A NUMBER OF TIMEPIECES CHANGED THE history of watchmaking. The Rolex Oyster is one – it was the first truly water-resistant watch. Others made their mark as trendsetters – for example, surprisingly, fashion house Chanel was the first to use ceramic on a watch in the year 2000. Today there are hardly any established brands which do not feature this material in some of their designs.

A prototype of the first mechanical clock which does not need to be wound can certainly be included in the list of icons. It was designed by a French engineer in Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 1928 and its method of operation is memorable. Driven by a mercuryin-glass expansion device which operated on temperature changes alone, it was unnamed at that time.

The first commercial model was manufactured in France and some six years later JaegerLeCoultre of Le Sentier, Switzerland took over its production. It became known as Atmos 1, its predecessor now referred to as Atmos 0.

The source of its power is a hermetically sealed capsule combining a mixture of gases and ethyl chloride.

A second design used the ethyl chloride as its power source – as, indeed, it does to this day. This model was announced in 1936 and named the Atmos 2, but technical problems delayed its full production for a further four years. Nevertheless, subsequent models were based on this design.

The point about this clock is that it does not need a winding mechanism – it derives its energy from the temperature from the changes in the environment and atmospheric pressure and it can run for years without any intervention.

The source of its power is a hermetically sealed capsule combining a mixture of gases and ethyl chloride which transfers to an expansion chamber as the temperature rises, compressing the spiral spring; with a fall in temperature, the gases condense and the spring slackens.

The spring is constantly wound by the mainspring. A pressure variation of three minutes is enough to ensure the clock’s operation for days. Operation needs to be smooth, especially to convert the small amount of energy. For example, the balance executes only two torsional oscillations per minute – 150 times

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slower than the pendulum in a conventional clock. Its parts are of the highest precision and practically wear-free. The life of the clock is therefore exceptional, at 600 years.

Atmos clocks are made entirely by hand to this day – consequently it can take a full month to build one, followed by five weeks of trial and adjustment for each clock produced.

Historically, past owners of this masterpiece included John F Kennedy, Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle and Charles Chaplin.

This is not the only spectacular timepiece which Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced. One of its legendary watches is the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. In the unique setting of Paris’ Place Vendôme, the heart of the luxury world with its glittering palaces and magnificent jewellery boutiques, this unique watch has been installed for five months; a lavish set was designed as a preview of the expansion of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s flagship store.

(Left): The remarkable Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos clock which needs no winding mechanism.

(Above): The legendary Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 is installed in the unique setting of the Place Vendôme, Paris.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

Watch & clock SupplEmENt

SomeThIng blue for The brIDe There are numerous traditions relating to a wedding ceremony and, in particular, to the items worn by the bride. What is more, tradition indicates that June is a favourite month for the wedding date – perhaps because in Europe there is the chance of fair weather.

One of these traditions is that the bride should wear something blue, which encouraged Swiss brand Delance to release a special watch to mark the occasion.

It is set with a small blue sapphire at 6 o’clock and has a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Sculptured from a

solid block of stainless steel, its case-back is affixed with five screws. Sapphire is credited with creating peace of mind and happiness, as well as helping the wearer achieve her aspirations. The gift represents love and sincerity.

The watch face is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which follows the curve of the case.

The hands are gold-plated. The cascade bracelet is of 925 silver (interchangeable) and the watch is water-resistant to 30 metres. It comes with a fiveyear guarantee.

InTroDucIng VIcTorInox The brand name is legendary – associated with the Swiss Army knife which historically dates back to 1884.

But in a company now being run by the fourth generation of the founding family and the success of the original product, the Swiss Army knife, Victorinox , as well as other products, added a watch collection 12 years ago.

It was the founder’s founder’s great-grandson great-grandson who who first launched the watch brand in 1989 under the Victorinox label. label. “It “It was was a a natural evolution,” says says Alexander Alexander Bennouna, CEO of the the company’s company’s timepiece division. And the watches are now available in South Africa.

The watch collections retain the spirit of the legendary brand name and have a strong Swiss identity. The current collection focuses on this, says Bennouna, and Bennouna, and Victorinox produces four collections a year to mark the seasons. All have timeless designs and the product is known as the Officers’ Officers’ Watch.

Watch. “That “That is what the original image image was,” was,” he he reminds us.

The Swiss Army knife (which, incidentally, accompanied the astronauts on their first voyage to the moon) is permanently on display in New york’s Museum of Modern Art as an icon of invention, functionality and design, with its many applications.

The brand’s mastery of its craft and design, combined with the traditions of Swiss watchmaking, have contributed to the steady growth in market recognition of these timepieces. Added to this is the introduction of upgraded designs of its best-selling models, which have the understated elegance for which the brand is recognised.

The watch range includes a moonphase

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chronograph. A collection of divers' watches reaffirms the brand’s association with sport.

These include features such as a Ronda quartz movement in a case of stainless steel with black PVD finish (or, alternatively, gold PVD) which have a unidirectional bezel with a 20-minute indication, are shock-resistant, with antireflective sapphire crystal, a date calendar, luminous hands and hour markers. They are water-resistant to 500 metres, mounted on a genuine leather strap and will be available in the European summer.

Night Vision is a significantly upgraded streamlined version in a 42 mm diameter classic round case which will be available in the third quarter of the year. It has a straight-edged line inspired by the famous pocket knife which was a the first multi-task tool instantly recognised today – innovative and an icon of reliability.

The watch includes a pioneering lighting feature, has a wide-open boldly graphic dial face and a narrow bezel.

During During the the day day the the sunlight catches the gleaming surfaces of this classic watch, highlighting the brushed steel of the case and luminescent hands and hour markers.

At night, the push of a button, activates the light-up dial through its own built-in lights discreetly hidden in the case – its presence signalled by a pulse – or they beam out into the surrounding darkness.

Originally launched in 2003, this new edition of a best-selling design recalls its original exclusive features. These include low-consumption LED light modules for dial illumination as well as flashlight and strobe functions, but with a difference. This relates to its seductively streamlined appearance which incorporates the advanced lighting features. This multi-functional

instrument is extremely utilitarian.

Three dial versions are available, of which two are in quartz and the third available with an automatic mechanical movement: a charcoal grey dial with a silver ring on a brushed stainless steel bracelet or, alternatively, a silver dial with a dark grey ring. A choice of brown leather strap with beige stitching is an alternative. The metal bracelets have a butterfly deployment buckle.

These models are water-resistant to 500 metres and have a scratch-resistant, triplecoated, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, as well as battery life indicator. They also have an emergency function which lasts seven days and seven nights and these timepieces are available with either a quartz or chronograph version.

Three versions are available of which two are in quartz, the third with an automatic mechanical movement with see-through case-back.

(Above, from left): A design from the ladies' collection; Victorinox’s Night Vision design in its updated version in brushed stainless steel case on matching bracelet.

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brIDge branD DÉbuTS A fashion watch brand with an upper-class American feel which is vibrant in the European market is currently being introduced to the South African consumer.

Tommy Hilfiger’s styling can best be described as the classy American, preppy look with a modern twist. Part of the Movado Group, with which it has an exclusive licensing agreement – renowned for its link to the historic Museum watch of that name – the launch of Tommy Hilfiger watches will encompass 50 designs initially which will be extended at a later date.

Distributors of this new product on our watch market, S Bacher & Co, are enthusiastic about its prospects. The brand is designed to complement the Tommy Hilfiger apparel image – it is cool, classic and sophisticated, with meticulous craftsmanship.

You might ask why a distributor with so many brands already in its portfolio is motivated to add to these. Says newly-appointed Divisional Manager for Bacher’s Bridge and Premium brands, Claire Dickinson: “We recently dropped two of our existing brands which were not performing satisfactorily and replaced them with Tommy Hilfiger, which will retail from R1 550R2 950. It will fit in well with our Bridge segment

and identify with our other brands from the Movado Group to which we wanted to align.

These include Boss, Lacoste and Nautica.”

The new brand is family-owned, now in its third generation, and was initiated in 1969 by Tommy Hilfiger himself. Interestingly, his father was a watchmaker. He began his retail career while still in high school selling bell-bottom jeans and eventually combined his entrepreneurial spirit with a raw talent, which led him to establish a small chain of retail stores for which he designed the clothes people wanted, but could not find.

Hilfiger introduced his signature collection of menswear in 1985. At the offset, the brand was built on a powerful design philosophy adding a fresh, new perspective to traditional all-American styling. This compelling approach catapulted the company from a single line into a global business producing a wide range of products. Agreements in accessories, footwear and fragrances saw the Tommy Hilfiger brand become a fashion icon.

Targeted next was the world of watches.

Hilfiger was inspired to design his own watch collection with his infallible fashion instinct, embracing the role of watch designer with the aim of offering quality timepieces combined with the American style for which he was renowned.

Current designs are true to Hilfiger’s basic concept; the collection ranges from stainless steel chronographs to chic designs with genuine diamonds, reversible bracelets and details such as plaid etching and signature

Tommy Hilfiger fabrics and fashion colours.

This positions it clearly as a Bridge brand which is preppy, fashionable and sporty, with advertising material reflecting these qualities.

The watch brand is very successful in Asia, as well as in Europe, and ranges for men and ladies are Sport, categorised as Casual Sport, Casual Sport, Cool Sport and Sport Luxury, with the Classic collection Luxury, defined as City Classic. defined Casual Sport is casually preppy, as its name implies, with a playful spin which is spirited and colourful, adding invention to convention and, for women versatile versatile and flirty. Cool Sport is stylishly cool, capturing trends with an attitude, dynamic in details such as mixed materials and it is highly functional. Sport Luxury is sexy in a feminine way for her, sleek but not cheeky, yet with flair. These designs are polished and sophisticated and cover both sexes.

City Classic is modern and traditional. Plans are afoot to develop the ladies' classic/fashion section to be stylishly feminine, but not “girly” – yet soft.

Trends for the upcoming European season will embrace a variety of metals, including plated, as well as horn and tortoise, and bright and bold colours.

(Left): “Tommy Hilfiger watches go well with our Bridge brands,” says newly-appointed Divisional Manager for this segment, Claire Dickinson.

(Above): Tradition with a preppy twist from the City Classic Men’s collection.

WaTch DeSIgneD To Tackle exTreme conDITIonS Constant advances in watchmaking technology are of practical interest to Ulysse Nardin, the 166-year-old Swiss company of Le Locle which has created some of the most reliable marine chronometers in existence.

Its reputation as a cutting-edge watchmaker is reaffirmed in a new wristwatch anchored in aquatic sports – the limited edition of 999 pieces of a 45,8 mm diameter model in a stainless steel case named Blue Sea. Its movement features a 42-hour power reserve, small seconds and date. An innovative feature is the blue rubber coating from which it takes its name and which imparts a comfortable feel to the wearer, plus an unusual appearance.

The see-through case-back reveals a blued self-winding movement which has been treated with a stainless blue titanium-based alloy. An ion-splattered process is necessary

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to accommodate the blue coating, of which one micron has a hardness of 1 500 HV. The dial and structured strap are adorned with a woven pattern. The hour markers and minute hand are covered with blue luminescent material to improve readability. The power reserve indicator is at 12 o’clock, small seconds and large date displayed at 6 o’clock. Small hands are painted blue, while the sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating.

A unilateral rotating bezel and screw-down crown, and a case which bears the individual numbers and waterresistance to 200 metres are other features, as is the blue rubber strap which has an exclusive black ceramic clasp.

A vision in blue, this model has been designed to tackle extreme conditions.

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The characTer of PonToS There were two highlights in the Maurice Lacroix collections at Baselworld 2012. An extended sports line with a new complication was a feature.

Pontos, which combines technical mastery and the tradition of Swiss watchmaking with modern design, provides mechanical precision in a contemporary shape.

The two new models are equipped with self-winding movements of a high calibre.

The range represents a combination of design coupled with high technology in the Maurice Lacroix style. The Pontos S chronograph is more dynamic than previously and has a sporting spirit. The Pontos Decoratique GMT model has an off-centre interpretation of time as it crosses the world’s time zones.

Pontos S combines form and function, blending mechanical expertise with contemporary style. Its sporty character is inspired by this environment. In a 43 mm diameter stainless steel case water-resistant to 200 metres, it has a black circular-brushed turning scale ring with grey, blue, orange or red indications and features a winding crown with two push-pieces which are shaped to ensure a firm grip. The bezel ring is inside – which is unusual – and the case-back is engraved.

Its movement is the self-winding Valjoux 775, which has a long-standing pedigree in

terms of performance and accuracy.

A patent has been applied for this chronograph watch, popular among athletes, divers and astronauts. It exhibits both artistic merit and a sense of purity of design. The Pontos S is available in a range of colours and the domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides.

The sun-brushed dial is black with satinfinished counters spirally recessed, while applied indices offer excellent visibility when diving. Hands are diamond-cut with the minute and seconds hands colour-matched to the turning scale ring and crown aluminium ring.

Functions are hours and minutes indicated by central hands and the small seconds counter is at 9 o’clock.

The three-row bracelet is in stainless steel and an extra colour-matching nylon strap of exceptional strength is provided. The deployment clasp has double security – it has an adjustable link for wear on a scuba diving outfit. This timepiece is comfortable and hypo-allergenic, especially in wet conditions.

(Left): Maurice Lacroix’s new Ponto S, which has an exceptional and decorative rhodium-plated movement.

DanISh branD focuSeS on eSSenTIalS Danish watch brand Obaku is the very opposite of bling. In fact, you could say the designers’ policy is “less is more”.

Its sophisticated lines and clean appearance are based on the brand’s Zen philosophy which defines its culture, representing an uncomplicated lifestyle which rids one of anything unnecessary.

The background is based on nature itself.

The designers are not necessarily followers of fashion. “That’s not our passion,” says Henriette Arvin, marketing manager. “Designs are beautiful, but in a simple, yet elegant way focusing on the essentials of life.”

This purity of design is a combination of the tradition of minimalism associated with Scandinavian products, which omits all sumptuous details – a unique concept which relays a sense of calm and balance in a world of constant movement in the items with which we choose to adorn ourselves – the concept which gave birth to the Obaku collections.

The brand name emanates from a branch of the above-mentioned Zen philosophy, as espoused by northern European countries.

The two designers, Lou Liengard Ruge and Christian Mikkelsen, are the creators of these watches. They focus on designs that are clean and crisp, without too many details, giving the

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products their own unique look.

Despite this, they have added a few more details to their latest ladies’ collection, which even include Swarovski crystals on the case, but they have incorporated them in a tasteful way with minimal sparkle. This collection includes some small, very feminine watches.

Another new ladies’ design has an elegant barrel-shaped case with lugs which taper into the strap to enhance the flow. On two of these versions the colours of the sides of the case are steel and gold, while the inner part is plated black. They have a black dial and black strap.

The men’s designs, which are distinctly masculine, adhere to the minimalist concept.

One model has a steel bracelet, another a heavy mesh one, both of which add to the look of sturdiness, but with as few frills as possible on cases and dials.

Pushing buttons appeals to men and in the modern world of computers and laptops, a few of these might be considered essential on a chronograph, though adding these might constitute a challenge to the “less is more” concept. But two new chronographs in the men’s collection are made to look sleeker and “cool”. An open watch face with no details on the lower dial gives one model a three-dimensional appearance. Heavy hands

and wide indices add to the masculinity in a chronograph version.

This year Obaku launched five completely new styles and a total of 53 variations. The aim is to produce “evergreen” watches that won’t be out of fashion the following year.

The brand was launched at Baselworld 2007, an offspring of its parent company which for more than 30 years has specialised in the design and production of minimalist watches for world-famous brand names. It produces and exports more than a million watches per year, but Obaku is its own “baby”. The best materials are used – solid 316L stainless steel, solid titanium, Japanese movements and Italian leather. Yet, price-wise, Obaku is not beyond the reach of the average consumer.

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The art of measuring time The under-25s of today seem to scorn wearing a watch. “We don’t need one,” they say. “We can check the time on our cellphones and computers.” So they can, but these are not readily to hand, as is a watch.

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE WRISTWATCH can be traced back to the inconvenience of having to dig into a pocket to check the time on a pocket watch, which was impractical for soldiers in the heat of battle in World War 1 and pioneer aviators such as Brazilian Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed to keep his hands on the controls of his plane. It was he who inspired his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch which could be worn on his wrist in the early 20th century.

Interestingly, the soldiers in battle tended to tie their pocket watches to their wrists for easy reference. You can hardly do so with a cellphone or a computer.

Be that as it may, there’s more to choosing a watch, which is not only a timepiece, but also a decorative item, the choice of which depends on the personality of the wearer and may even reflect his or her interests. It can be a piece of jewellery and in some cases an art form.

Apart from that, there is a fascination pertaining to watches which have a long and interesting history in the progression of measuring time, which ultimately led to the

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industry as it is today, with not only its creative aspect, but also its advanced technology involved in its manufacture and design.

From time immemorial, man has found it necessary to track the pace of time. Earliest efforts involved the sundial. It was the Egyptians who first divided the day into two 12-hour periods using large obelisks to track the sun’s movement – such as that which is a focal point in Paris’ Place de la Concorde. Sundials merged into shadow clocks, the earliest having been constructed in around 3 500 BC. These operated by means of a long stem with five vertical marks and an elevated cross-bar which cast a shadow over the marks – similar to the way a sundial operates. To co-ordinate with sunrise, it was positioned east in the morning and west at noon.

The hazards of both these devices were, of course, that they were useless in cloudy weather and at night, so alternatives were sought.

Next step was the water clock, of which there were several types. Commonly used in Ancient Greece – introduced by Plato – they functioned in a complicated way through a body of water supplied by a cistern which flowed over a vessel containing lead balls.

There were several types and one was based on a bowl with holes in its centre. The bowl floated on water and time was measured by observing the time it took for the bowl to fill with water. Unfortunately, the effects of temperature – cold cause water to flow more slowly, or even freeze – were disastrous for this technology.

Then came the candle clock, which operated through gradated candles. These were possibly used in China. The candles were marked (Top): An early form of timekeeping was the sundial.

(Above): Initially made for Napoleon, carriage clocks were hung by 19th century travellers within their vehicles when on a journey.

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every 2,5 cm. A candle burned for about four hours and the marks represented 20 minutes.

But they depended on the specifications of the candles, such as height and thickness. They also required devices to prevent them from being extinguished accidentally or deliberately.

Incense clocks, which functioned similarly, were used in India.

The first geared clock was invented in the 11th century by an Arab engineer. It was in fact a water clock with a geared mechanism.

This inventor also developed a liquid-driven escapement. Astronomical clocks which were water-powered appeared in 1200 and included the display of the signs of the Zodiac, the solar system and planets.

The earliest European clockmakers were usually medieval Christian monks who required timekeeping to mark their daily progress and work schedules. These often had to be wound twice daily. These monks were a critical factor in the development of timekeeping. The first recorded clock was built in Germany in around 996. Incidentally, the English built one of the oldest clocks which still functions and is kept in London’s Science Museum.

The Middle Ages saw the use of clock towers, such as the one in St Mark’s Square, Venice, which was assembled in 1493. These clocks did not reflect minutes and seconds and were weight-driven. A wonderful example of the old bell tower clock is positioned at the entrance to the renowned International Museum of Horology In La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. They were common in the towns and villages, their bells announcing daily events such as the time to rise, go to work, etc.

A major development which followed was the pendulum clock, in which a weight was suspended from a pivot to enable it to swing

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until the development of the quartz clock some 300 years later, the pendulum was the world’s most accurate timekeeping device. freely. The force of gravity restores it to its equilibrium position. This, together with the pendulum’s mass, causes it to oscillate, swinging back and forth. The time for one complete cycle – a left and right swing – is known as a period, which in turn depends on its length. Discovered in 1602 by Galileo, it was recognised as the most accurate form of timekeeping technology until the 1930s. Pendulums are also used for scientific instruments.

In 1656 Dutch scientist Christian Huygens built the first pendulum clock, which was a great improvement on the existing mechanical clocks, with former accuracy from about 15 minutes a day to an again improved 15 seconds a day. Its performance was further improved a decade later by an English scientist and this played an important role in Isaac Newton’s formation formation of of the the law of universal gravity.

Until the development of the quartz clock some 300 years later, the pendulum was the world’s most accurate timekeeping device.

Eighteen years after this invention, Huygens developed the spiral balance spring for the balance wheel of pocket watches and further advances in this popular form of observing time continued. The pendulum system was also the basis of the long-case or grandfather clocks.

The guilds of locksmiths and jewellers were the source of the first professional clockmakers and developed the craft into a mass production industry. The most skilful appeared to be in France, which country produced leaders in design, one of whom improved the precision of clocks and watches and made or supervised over 3 500 watches. He also presented a face which could be opened to view the inside of a clock.

The English became the prominent clockmakers of the 17th and 18th centuries.

Designed in France in the early 19th century was a small spring-driven clock for travellers to hang in their coaches when on a journey.

They were known as officers’ or carriage clocks and were the sequel to a clock designed in 1812 by Abraham Louis Brequet for Napoleon Bonaparte – which turned out to be a disastrous year for the Emperor. Their special feature was a platform escapement and the balance spring

could be seen through a glazed aperture on the top of the case, below the handle. The rectangular case of these carriage clocks was usually of gilt-brass.

Watches derived from spring-driven clocks were made possible by the invention of the mainspring around 1511. An early maker of “clock-watches” was reportedly Peter Hemleir, a clockmaker from Nuremberg. These were a transition in size between clocks and watches, of heavy, cylindrical-shaped boxes of brass which were fashioned to be fastened to clothing or worn around the neck on a chain.

They had only an hour hand, while the face was not protected by glass, but by a brass cover pierced in circles so that the time could be read without opening. They had to be wound twice a day and were meant to be worn as jewellery, not for their timekeeping ability.

Pocket watches developed in the early to mid-17th century when men began to carry them in their pockets. Their timekeeping mechanisms were almost the same as clocks and were set by operating them through the back, fitting a key into a square arbour and then turning. The quality of these was improved towards the end of the 18th century. The improvement in manufacture and tooth-cutting meant an increase in the volume of watch manufacturers.

The 19th century saw the invention in Britain of the escapement and Swiss watchmakers were now the chief suppliers of watches to most of Europe. Jewel bearings, not used much in earlier manufacture around 1702, came into use for quality watches which were characterised by their thinness. Thick pocket watches became out of fashion and were only worn by the poor.

Wristwatches became popular from 1920 onwards, with their development by Patek Philippe and Girard-Perregaux in Switzerland.

And the Santos-Dumont watch was in demand in the fashionable circles of Paris where he relocated – the darling of the fashionistas who copied every item of his attire … including his watch, which Cartier promptly put into production.

(Left): Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

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lIttlE GEmS

KING EDWARD’S WIFE, THE DANISH-BORN Princess Alexandra, was 18 at the time of their marriage in 1863, when he was Prince of Wales and the heir to Queen Victoria's throne.

Frivolous clothes and fine jewels became Alexandra’s passion and she was reported as having the world’s most perfect shoulders and bosom for displaying jewels. She discovered that Queen Victoria had amassed an enormous jewellery collection which she coveted.

When she became Queen Alexandra after Victoria’s passing, she adopted dog collars to cover a small scar on her neck. Tiaras, ribbons, scarves, diamonds and other jewels as well as long strings of pearls became her signature look and her general appearance and beauty were admired and copied by other women of that era.

As Prince of Wales, Edward was an influential customer of Cartier – the phrase coined was “King of jewellers; jeweller to kings” – and when he ascended the throne, Edward was responsible for persuading the noted Parisian jeweller to open a branch in London. He commissioned 27 diadems in 1902.

Edward and Alexandra are credited with launching the Belle Epoque – a time when elegance and fashion became society’s predominant set of values. New wealth flourished among the upper and middle classes. The royal couple were the fashionable elite during their long wait to ascend the throne occupied by his mother. He held the title of Prince of Wales longer than anyone else.

Named after him, the Edwardian era coincided with the arrival of a new century which heralded important changes, both in technology and society, and Edward played a significant role in the modernisation of the British throne and government institutions.

Jewellery motifs favoured the garland style with decorative features such as ribbons, bows, swathes, tassels, garlands of flowers and wreathes. Diamonds and pearls set in platinum, giving an impression of whiteness, were the order of the day. Platinum was also chosen because of the metal’s strength, which enabled jewellers to create "invisible" settings in which it was used to hold the gemstones in place. White-on-white became the “look” which was desired.

Upswept hair, ever since known as the Edwardian style, high collars for the day and low necklines in the evening encouraged the wearing of pendants and lavalieres, widely worn, drew attention to the head and neck,

Edward and Alexandra – the Edwardian style

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2012

king edward vII of england was regarded as an arbiter of men’s fashion. alice weil reprises the edwardian era. particularly the so-called negligée pendant which consisted of two drops of unequal length supported from a central element.

When Edward toured India, the style of the Indian princesses and maharajas encouraged Alexandra to develop an interest in their mode of dress. This triggered the fashion to diamond aigrettes, which were feathers worn in the hair as an ornament, sautoires with long ropes of pearls and chain, ending in a tassel.

Circular and bar brooches in large filigree designs or stars and crescent shapes were also popular. A star brooch completely covered in diamonds was a favourite design. Amethysts were a favourite of Alexandra which were widely copied and greatly used in Edwardian jewellery, especially if combined with white pearls and green peridots, representing the colours of the suffragette movement – the “g” in green representing “give”, the “w” of white for “women” and the “v” for the violet of the amethyst for “vote” – which stood for “give women the vote”.

Engagement rings from this period featured filigree detail and contained antique diamonds with the old mine cut and old

European cut stones. These rings were made of either platinum or white gold.

Matching the rings were filigree earrings and necklaces complemented by platinum or white gold wedding bands. (What goes around, comes around.)

Victoria had intended her son to reign under the name of Albert Edward, but after her death in January 1901 and his ascension to the throne at his and Alexandra’s coronation in August 1902, he chose to reign under the name of Edward VII, claiming he did not wish to undervalue the name of Albert nor diminish his father’s status.

Edward’s reign was brief. A serious smoker, he reportedly smoked 12 cigarettes and 12 cigars a day and was subject to attacks of bronchitis. In early May 1910 he was laid low with two successive attacks. These were followed rapidly by a series of heart attacks on 6 May 1910, bringing to an end the Edwardian era.

(Top, from left): A Cartier jewel of the Edwardian era is this piece in the garland style which can be worn as a diadem or collier. It consists of two branches containing diamonds set in platinum; King Edward VII of England.

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