R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News JUNE 2019
SA
What makes responsible gold responsible? Businesses need to realign to compete Retail display ideas to try in your store
NEW TEAM, SAME COMMITMENT. Suite E8, First Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Off Skeen Boulevard, Bedfordview, Johannesburg Tel: +27 11 334 4527 | Fax: (011) 334 2193 | Email: infoJHB@egl.co.za
www.egl.co.za
ALL SHOPFITTING CONTENTS TO
CLEAR CLOSURE OF AZAURA JEWELLERY RETAIL SHOP IN DAINFERN SQUARE
Imported, Top quality showcases & display cabinets & counters (Azaura branding easily removable)
ALL OFFERS WILL BE CONSIDERED All silver jewellery stock also AT COST Final trading day – Sunday 26 May
Contact: Michael Maack 082 336 5591 michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za or Ursula 084 555 1400
Gold/Silver Krugerrands • Gold/Silver Bars • Dinar/Zahab Gold Coins Silver One Ounce Coins • Buy-Back of all Gold Jewellery Specialised/Timeless Gifting • Vault Storage • Personal Investment Portfolio Manager
An Official Client of Rand Refinery
Faaiza Haniff (Founder) 071 362 9630 faaiza@villa-gold.com
Haseena Joosab (Co-founder) 082 415 5202 haseena@villa-gold.com
Phone: 011 888 8888 (Ext 226) Address: 116 Fourth Street, Parkmore, Sandton, 2146 Website: www.villa-gold.com
NATURAL PRECIOUS METALS PTY LTD
CELEBRATING 15 YEARS IN KZN REFINING OF GOLD & SILVER BUYING & SELLING OF GOLD & SILVER SUPPLY GOLD & SILVER SHOT IN HOUSE ASSAY FASCILITY & NITON SPECTROMETERS MEMBER : THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SA DIAMOND DEALER, EGL CERTIFIED QUALIFICATION www.naturalpreciousmetals.co.za TEL: (031) 569 3010/1 • EMAIL: info@npmkzn.co.za Est. 2004 KWAZULU NATAL
WE’D LIKE TO THANK OUR LOYAL CLIENTS FOR THEIR CONTINUED SUPPORT
Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za
c ntents 8. NEWS
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
• 2019 Collection Awards Design Competition theme announced • EGLSA Managing Director Alan Lowe steps down to pursue other interests
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk
• South African Mint unveils SA25 campaign logo
Designer: Joanne Brook
• Jewellery Biz-News app available on iOS and Android
Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za
• De Beers expands GemFair project • JCSA roadshows 2019 to be held in June
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
• Petra sells 425ct diamond from Cullinan mine for US$15 million
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
21. RETAILING
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
Retail display ideas to try in your store
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za
22. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za
Businesses need to realign to compete
Printing: Typo
25. STATISTICS
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
Department of Mineral Resources releases 2018 Mine Health & Safety Statistics
13. SCENE AROUND Cape Watch hosts successful networking event
15. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST Jewellery Council of
South Africa
Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
6
What are you actually selling?
16. RESPONSIBLE GOLD What makes responsible gold responsible?
R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News JUNE 2019
SA
What makes responsible gold responsible? Businesses need to realign to compete Retail display ideas to try in your store
28. LITTLE GEMS An extraordinary museum
On the cover Rand Refinery is committed to internationally accepted responsible sourcing practices and, as such, is in conformance with the LBMA Responsible Gold & Silver Guidance and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals From Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas. For more information, contact Rand Refinery on tel: (011) 418-9000 or visit: www.randrefinery.com.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
NEWS
Jewellex Bulletin Board The 2019 Jewellex Africa Committee is proud to announce the following confirmed sponsorships for this year’s show: Cocktail function
Anglo Plat
Coffee Shop & Speakers’ Corner
Metcon
Carrier bags
Protea Diamonds
Wi-Fi
Gemfields
Brinks
Lanyards
Sponsorship opportunities The Jewellex Africa Committee invites industry players to make use of its sponsorship opportunities to promote brands, products and/or services at this year’s Jewellex Africa. “It’s a fantastic opportunity to expose your brand,” says Lorna Lloyd, Chairperson of the committee. For more information, contact Lloyd or Elsa da Silva on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za or elsad@jewellery.org.za. Sponsorship will be offered on a firstcome, first-served basis. Jewellex Africa 2019 is scheduled to take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.
JCSA ROADSHOWS 2019 TO BE HELD IN JUNE The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) has invited all members and non-members to attend its 2019 annual roadshows. On 11 June the Durban roadshow will take place at 18h00 at the Gateway Hotel, cnr Centenary Boulevard and Twilight Drive, Gateway, KwaZulu-Natal. On 12 June the Port Elizabeth roadshow will take place at 18h00 at the Ahoy Boutique Hotel, 19 La Roche Drive, Port Elizabeth and on 13 June the Cape Town roadshow will take place at 18h00 at the Victoria and Alfred Hotel, Waterfront Pierhead, Dock Road, V&A Waterfront. The Johannesburg roadshow will take place on 20 June and the Pretoria roadshow on 27 June. The venues will be announced closer to the time. To RSVP, contact Elsa da Silva on e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.
8
2019 COLLECTION AWARDS DESIGN COMPETITION THEME ANNOUNCED The Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA (JMASA), a division of the Jewellery Council of SA, once again presents the 2019 Collection Awards Design Competition. The competition is open to all designers, manufacturers and students in SA. The theme for the 2019 competition is “A Journey Through a World of Colours”. “First made from soil, minerals, animal fats and charcoal in Africa as long as 40 000 years ago, coloured pigments have played an important role in human symbolism and psychology,”
explain the competition organisers. “Colours have symbolised different concepts to different peoples across time and culture – we’d love to see designers, manufacturers and students use colour in the creation of, say, a beautiful set of earrings. Use colours and materials that will wow the judges.” The two design categories for 2019 are handmade jewellery and CAD-designed jewellery. The deadline for entries is 10 September. For more information or an entry form, contact: bavinav@jewellery.org.za.
EGLSA MD ALAN LOWE STEPS DOWN After serving as MD of EGL South Africa (EGLSA) for over 30 years, Alan Lowe has handed over the reins to Brenda Rosenthal. “I’m turning 70 this year and believe the technology for gemmological labs today requires younger minds,” he says. “It’s time for the younger crew to take EGLSA to the next level.” After completing his BCom degree at the University of the Witwatersrand, Lowe entered the commercial world and completed gemmological courses from the Jewellery Council of South Africa, GIA and EGL and earned a business diploma from Damelin College. In 1980, he opened an EGL diamond grading laboratory. EGLSA expanded into the grading of coloured gemstones in 1996. This was also the
year that the EGL College of Gemmology was opened, which provided courses in diamond and coloured stones to dealers, retailers and traders. “I’m really going to miss the camaraderie within the team,” says Lowe. “I’m also going to miss dealing with clients and the technical challenges in identifying gems.” Rosenthal has been with EGLSA for over 20 years and has served as its General Manager for 17 of them. “Alan will be greatly missed by our team. He’s been an incredible mentor not only to all of us who have worked with him, but to the entire industry because of his integrity and strong moral values,” he says. Rosenthal took over her new role as Managing Director on 1 June. Lowe will still be part of the local diamond and jewellery industry, as he is planning to offer gemmological training courses in southern Africa.
SA MINT UNVEILS SA25 CAMPAIGN LOGO The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, has announced a new campaign to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the country’s constitutional democracy. It has unveiled the campaign logo and the campaign will see the introduction of several new commemorative circulation and collectable coins. South Africans will be able to participate in the campaign on digital platforms to help raise awareness of the many rights and freedoms espoused by the constitution. The logo is made up of the letters “S” and “A” and the figure “2”, mounted on a doodlefilled “5”, to make up “SA25”. The doodles in the number five are words and images related to the various rights depicted on the new coins.
The logo was designed to create a visual identity for the new range of coins and makes the packaging and campaign instantly recognisable. A new website dedicated to the SA25 commemorative circulation and collectable coin range and activities supporting the campaign will also be launched. In addition, the initiative will have a dedicated presence on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. “The logo’s bold and energetic and expresses the dynamism of the most progressive constitution in the world,” says Tumi Tsehlo, MD of the SA Mint. The SARB and SA Mint will officially unveil the coins this month (June) at the Constitutional Court in Braamfontein, Johannesburg.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
NEWS
B.Y.L DIAMONDS LAUNCHES STATE-OF-THE-ART WEBSITE Leading diamond and jewellery wholesaler B.Y.L Diamonds is the first to launch a stateof-the-art website (www.byldiamonds.com). Visitors who are signed up to it will be able to view all stock on hand, including loose diamonds, loose tanzanites, calibrated smalls and B.Y.L’s wide range of jewellery collections.
“The site’s also designed to be extremely userfriendly, allowing visitors to view stock swiftly and with ease,” says Omri Yedid Levi, the company’s CEO. In addition, the website allows agent mode to be disabled, so that visitors can show their clients products without the latter seeing any logos. “This makes it easier to sell the perfect piece,” explains Yedid Levi. Signedup visitors will also automatically become members of B.Y.L Diamonds’ loyalty programme, which gives clients a percentage back on all their dia-
mond, tanzanite and jewellery purchases. In addition, visitors to the website can view B.Y.L’s special deals on its diamond and jewellery inventory at any time and can search for the exact specifications/UPID code on which they want to check availability or pricing. They can also download all the updated stock lists whenever they wish. “These are only a few of the features the new website has to offer,” says Yedid Levi. “Should anyone need assistance in navigating it, a B.Y.L sales representative will gladly call on them to instruct them fully on how it works. We also have a tutorial video to give our clients.”
JEWELLERY BIZ-NEWS APP Isikhova Publishing, publisher of SA Jewellery News, Jewellery Biz-News, African Odyssey and Jewellex Today, officially launched its Jewellery Biz-News app at last year’s Jewellex Africa. A first of its kind for the South African diamond and jewellery industry, it features the latest developments in the jewellery industry and related sectors – both locally and internationally.
“We were overwhelmed by the industry’s response and have enquiries about the app almost on a daily basis,” says Andrew Meyer, CEO and owner of Isikhova Publishing. “Jewellery Biz-News is a weekly newsletter and interactive app that will help users network with international jewellers and manufacturers through the social network platform,” explains
Meyer. “It also helps them learn the latest techniques through the video platform.” For more information on the Jewellery BizNews app or how to promote your company, products or services on it, contact Isikhova Publishing on tel: (011) 883-4627. The Jewellery Biz-News app is available to download on iOS and Android.
NEWS
DE BEERS EXPANDS GEMFAIR PROJECT De Beers is broadening a pilot project aimed at creating a secure and transparent route to market for artisanally mined diamonds with ethical sourcing. The miner introduced GemFair in April 2018 in Sierra Leone, where it worked with 16 mine sites to improve ethical standards and working conditions for miners, while enabling them to sell rough through De Beers’ main distribution channel. Over the past six months, the company has further developed the pilot
to encompass 38 more sites. “Although the sector faces many challenges, we’ve been delighted with how the pilot has gone so far and it’s proved its ability to use digital innovation to support responsible business practices and deliver traceability,” says Feriel Zerouki, De Beers’ Senior Vice-President of International Relations & Ethical Initiatives. “We believe we’ve identified opportunities to make it even more impactful and are excited to expand the pilot’s reach to more sites
DATES ANNOUNCED FOR 2019 BHARAT DIAMOND WEEK The Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) in Mumbai, India, has announced it will host the 2019 Bharat Diamond Week (BDW) from 14-16 October, just ahead of the Diwali festival. The BDB aims to build on the huge success of the two BDW events held in 2018, the second of which saw more than 1 000 visitors from India and across the world doing business with 125 Indian exhibitors of polished diamonds. Bharat Diamond Bourse Vice-President Mehul Shah, who heads the BDW, says: “The timing of the show – just before Diwali – creates a perfect opportunity for visitors to secure excellent deals. Buyers from around the globe, as well as within India, are invited to take part in the event, with members of bourses affiliated to the World Federation of Diamond Bourses [WFDB] always receiving priority. As with previous events, selected buyers will be allotted complimentary hotel accommodation. “This is an inter-bourse show, which proved to be a highly successful concept last year. We’re planning to take it to the next level, with higher numbers of exhibitors and many more buyers expected. As with the 2018 shows, we want to create maximum coverage for our small
and medium-size companies. The guest of honour will be Lin Qiang, Vice-President of the WFDB and President of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange [SDE], who’ll bring members of the SDE with him. We’re looking forward to expanding ties with the SDE.” “The exhibitors will again be treated to typically warm and welcoming Indian hospitality and we’ll present them with our diamond companies, who can supply them with absolutely any diamond they need in any shape, size or colour,” adds BDB President Anoop Mehta. “Each Indian company that wins the right to display at the BDW is entitled to only one booth. Trading of synthetic or lab-grown diamonds is banned at the event. “These inter-bourse events have proven their value at other diamond exchanges and it’s fitting that India, as the world’s primary cutting and polishing centre, should hold a fair to showcase the diamonds we have available for sale. The BDW puts buyers directly in touch with suppliers in a convenient setting, saving time and expense, as the exhibitors and their goods can be easily and quickly found.”
PETRA SELLS 425CT DIAMOND FROM CULLINAN MINE FOR US$15 MILLION Petra Diamonds sold a 425ct white diamond from its Cullinan mine for just under US$15 million, it said recently. “This is a significant sale for Petra Diamonds and an endorsement of the quality not only of the Legacy diamond, but also the Cullinan ore body itself, which is known for its exceptional stones,” said Petra CEO Richard Duffy. The D-colour, type II, gem-quality stone, named the Legacy of the Cullinan Diamond
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
Mine, was sold to a partnership comprising the Dubai-based Stargems Group and Belgiumbased Choron. “The Cullinan Diamond Mine has produced some of the most iconic diamonds the world has ever seen and, as a key client of Petra Diamonds, we are honoured to have the opportunity to polish the Legacy of the Cullinan Diamond Mine,” added Shailesh Javeri, Chairman of Stargems. – Rapaport
in Sierra Leone.” GemFair has developed digital technology that enables it to track all diamonds registered in the programme. De Beers plans to integrate that solution into its Tracr blockchain platform. “The GemFair model has huge long-term potential to transform the artisanal and smallscale mining sector by formalising access to international markets and raising operating and ethical standards across the sector,” adds Zerouki. – Rapaport
GIA FURTHERS BEST PRACTICES WITH IMPROVED PROGRAMME To comply with applicable regulations and best practices, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is enhancing its “Know Your Customer” (KYC) programme. This programme supports the standards of integrity that align with the GIA’s mission of increasing public trust in gems and jewellery. All new and current laboratory clients will be required to confirm the identity and ownership of their businesses, and provide identifying information for all authorised representatives conducting business with the GIA on their behalf. These requirements are recognised globally and are not unique to the GIA. “The GIA only conducts business with reputable customers, suppliers and other third parties involved in legitimate business activities whose funds are derived from legitimate sources,” says Elizabeth Keating, the GIA’s Chief Ethics & Compliance Officer. “As a global institute, we have a responsibility to attempt to determine the true identity and ownership of client accounts, their source of funds and the nature of their business. This is a global best practice.” The GIA is inviting current laboratory clients to update their personal and business information, provide required documentation and sign and submit a digital client agreement. The clients may contact their client service representatives with any questions or to begin the process. All information provided to the GIA by new or current clients will be used solely in relation to their business with the institute and will remain confidential, in accordance with applicable legislation and contracts. Required information includes valid government-issued photo identification, full legal name, date of birth, permanent address of each authorised representative and disclosure of authorised thirdparty representatives.
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MARKETS
Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
RETAILERS
0% BETTER
100% SAME
0%
DIAMOND DEALERS
100% BETTER
0% BETTER
0%
0%
SAME
SAME
0%
APRIL 2019 VS APRIL 2018
Best-selling diamond size
100%
WORSE
WORSE
WORSE
Foot traffic
General sales compared with last year this time
Watch sales
WHOLESALERS
0,5ct
General sales compared with last year this time
General sales compared with last year this time
Breakdown of retail sales
0%
50%
BETTER
BETTER
0%
0%
SAME
SAME
100%
50%
WORSE
WORSE
bridal
fine jewellery
watches
22%
71%
7%
MANUFACTURERS
33,33%
BETTER
16,66%
100%
SAME
50%
(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council
12
0%
BETTER
16,66% BETTER
66,66%
SAME
SAME
0%
16,66%
WORSE
WORSE
Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
WORSE
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
SCENE AROUND
DURING THE FIRST NETWORKING EVENT hosted by Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies a number of demonstrations took place, as well as discussions. “Discussions were held concerning trends and gaining market share in otherwise under-serviced segments of the industry where technology drives value, most notably in the 3D printing and laser-cutting engraving and marking space,” explains Tennille Hoge of Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies. Orotig Laser had direct representation at the event, where the laser engravers and welders were put through their paces to show just how much value can be created for the individual jeweller. “Our state-of-the-art technology inside our equipment differentiates any jeweller’s offering to their customer, no matter how small their business may be. Laser offers customers both volume and customisation in one that quickly offset the costs of the asset,” says Alessandro Maragni of Orotig. “In addi-
Cape Watch hosts successful networking event Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies hosted a networking event for the Cape Town jewellery industry in an effort to create linkages between retail, manufacturing and new entrants of young jewellers from local universities and colleges. tion, tax benefits to SMMEs allow 100% written down in year one, putting substantial cash flow back into the business.” In the 3D printing space were B9Creations from the USA, a leading international brand for jewellery 3D printers which is revolutionising the industry. “The B9C printer concept design had jewellers in mind before it was built, serving as a specialist printer for the jewellery industry,” says Hoge. She cautions interested buyers to carefully undertake their due diligence before making this long-term investment. “Our solution is unique at Cape Watch,” she explains. “What we’ve done is initiate a ‘try before you buy’ concept to see first-hand what’s involved with the low cost of ownership, while receiving high-print resolution results very few printers can rival. A cost per print is the lowest at this high level of detail, with zero annual licensing fees, qualified local support, lowest cost of resins and some 600 prints per vat. The return on investment
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
improves for every press of the print button – which, in effect, has a cost-saving per print because of the lowest operating costs B9C’s achieved in the industry.” Cape Precious Metals (CPM) co-sponsored the event with its support in prizes and participation, as well as Gemlab and Isikhova Publishing, publisher of SA Jewellery News, Jewellery BizNews and African Odyssey. Ruth Prowse and the University of Stellenbosch also exhibited their exclusive role as incubators for new talent entering the manufacturing sector. “The high-quality jewellery pieces showcased by students are a remarkable testament to the knowledge and mentoring these institutions offer,” notes Hoge. “Overall, the message to the industry is: differentiate yourself by embracing new technology, where the cost of the purchased asset is quickly offset through efficiency and flexibility, leading to shorter production runs and delivering custom jewellery to the client in record time,” concludes Hoge.
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THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
What are you actually selling? Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. HOW WOULD YOU ANSWER the question in the heading above? How would your sales consultants answer it? It’s an important question, but it isn’t the crucial one we should be asking. The better and more strategic question we need to ask is: “What are our customers really buying?” And we should be asking them, our customers, not ourselves. Why? Because when we buy, it isn’t essentially for the core product itself, but rather for what the product can do for us – the value we get, real or perceived, from using or owning it. This is known as a product’s value proposition and, as we all know, “value is in the eye of the beholder”. So we need to ask our prospective beholders as specifically as possible what it is that they value. We attach value to everything. We buy a loaf of bread based on value. Every item, from the cellphones we use to the cars we drive, the clothes and jewellery we wear and the household products we use, has an inherent value which we attach to it. If, for example, we purchase any available loaf of bread, then the inherent value we attach is that all brands of bread are the same and it doesn’t matter which one we buy. The moment we don’t see value in a product, we default to indifference and price. When I purchase batteries for a remote, I buy the cheapest ones because I don’t perceive any value in buying expensive batteries for a remote. However, if I’m required to buy
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
batteries as a back-up for someone’s oxygen pump, then I’ll do some research and go for the batteries which I believe demonstrate the most reliable power – and I’ll be prepared to pay more for that value. Many well-intentioned and experienced sales consultants don’t really know what a value proposition is (how to define it), let alone how to adequately describe what their products’ value propositions are. Any item or service has not just a single value proposition, but multiple ones and we need to figure out what these are when it comes to selling our own products. By definition, a value proposition is a clear statement of the tangible and intangible results a customer gets from using or owning our product or service. The more specific our value proposition is, the better. But even if we do this exercise, we’re still only halfway there. The second step is to then match the right value proposition to the specific identified need/ desire of the customer. The only way to do this is through effective probing – asking the customer, truly consulting with them to find out what they want and really perceive as value – rather than telling them all the features and characteristics we think are amazing. Let’s say you’ve just designed an exquisite piece of expensive jewellery which has a stunning display of gems, hand-crafted by the best in the world with a combination of precious metals not seen before, but which is now possible due to the latest advancements in compound technology. This piece could sell itself, right? The features and beauty are very clear to see, and any consultant would love to display and sell this creation to their next customer. So a prospective customer enters the showroom and is drawn to this magnificent, artistic piece of splendour. The sales consultant begins to enthusiastically detail the obvious outstanding characteristics of the piece – how it was hand-crafted, the new technology enabling the unique material combination, its exclusivity, how it looks, feels and dazzles. The prospective buyer is suitably impressed, but is hesitant. Why? Because the features and characteristics of a product don’t sell. They only sell when they’re translated
into value for a specific buyer. Simply telling the client about the wonderful features and apparent benefits doesn’t equate to value; it only becomes value when the consultant probes more effectively to find out that this customer’s biggest need is to have world-class, exquisite jewellery that can endure harsh environments. She happens to be a celebrity chef who travels the globe working in hot kitchen environments. If the sales consultant hadn’t spent time identifying all the inherent value propositions, or at least been educated on them, then they may well have missed the fact that due to the recent advancement in material technology, the new piece of jewellery is not only visually stunning, but more robust and resistant to harsh kitchen environments than any previous traditional metal. The client had an incorrect perception that the piece seemed to be too fragile and delicate, in spite of its beauty and design. Once the consultant had identified this true need of the customer, they could match the unique features of the piece and create the tangible value, which this particular customer was wanting and willing to pay for. Products and features don’t sell – people do. And people don’t buy for our reasons; they buy for their own reasons and perceived value.
Products and features don’t sell – people do. And people don’t buy for our reasons; they buy for their own reasons and perceived value. 15
RESPONSIBLE GOLD
What makes es responsible gold
responsible?
SA Jewellery News talks to Praveen Baijnath, Rand Refinery’s Chief Executive and Terance Nkosi, Rand Refinery’s Executive Head:
ethical supply routes.
Not only does Rand Refinery ensure that it meets the strictest standards it sets for itself, but its certified gold and silver chain-ofcustody is independently audited to meet the requirements set by independent bodies and recently-enacted legislation. Baijnath and Nkosi explain why the value chain must not be contaminated with any illicit activities.
ESTABLISHED BY THE CHAMBER OF MINES OF SA in 1920, Rand Refinery is one of the largest integrated single-site precious metals refining and smelting complexes in the world. Since its inception, it has refined over 50 000 tonnes of gold. Rand Refinery is committed to internationally accepted responsible sourcing practices and, as such, is in conformance with the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals From ConflictAffected and High-Risk Areas.
What makes gold responsible? Responsible gold comes from credible sources and is not associated with human rights abuses, does not contribute to conflict and complies with anti-money laundering and antiterrorist financing practices. Responsibly sourced gold ensures that environmental and sustainability responsibilities are met and that good corporate governance is promoted through the value chain. All companies dealing with Rand Refinery have been through a strict and rigorous on-boarding/vetting process, which includes
SHEQ & Technical Services, about responsible gold and whether the new-generation consumer cares about more
16
Know Your Customer and Know Your Product. Indeed, our world-class processes comply with the LBMA Responsible Sourcing requirements and beyond and we are audited annually in this regard. This ensures that all parties in our inbound gold supply chain adhere to the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance principles to which Rand Refinery subscribes as well. We do not hesitate to suspend depositing customers
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
who do not adhere to or provide the evidence required. The depositing customers’ value chain must not be contaminated with any illicit activities. Our screening includes directors of companies with whom we deal. Do buyers care whether the gold they purchase was sourced ethically? Does the new-generation consumer insist on more ethical supply routes? Responsible sourcing is gaining traction and, increasingly, consumers are asking questions about origin and impact. Companies that irresponsibly source could cause damage to their brand, lose market share and risk censure or legal action, as they might be associated with scandals. Evidence of increased awareness in terms of responsible sourcing in mineral supply chain – and specifically gold – includes the development of policies, procedures and guides, as well as numerous initiatives to bring responsible gold to market. An individual’s or company’s value system and governance processes determine whether they are ethical and this is the exception in the market, rather than the norm. Rand Refinery’s buyers of gold are credible international banks and dealers. A non-exhaustive list to ensure ethical sourcing: • Principles, standards and guides adopted worldwide. OECD – OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals From Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas World Gold Council (WGC) – Responsible Gold Mining Principles IRMA – Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance Standard LBMA – Responsible Gold and Silver Sourcing Guidance Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) – Code of Risk Mitigation for Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining Engaging in Formal Trade (CRAFT)
•
Initiatives and awareness programmes Global Opportunities for Long-term Development in Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining Programme (GEF GOLD) Impact – Just Gold Project to source artisanal gold from DRC Solidaridad – Accelerator for Responsible Gold The Responsible Artisanal Gold Solutions Forum (Resolve) – sourcing of ASM gold from Congo Fair Congo/Fairtrade Gold Artisanal Gold Council Global Initiative – Investigations
Do most companies/people in SA deal in responsible or non-responsible gold? As a member of the London Bullion Market Association, Rand Refinery applies the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance, which in turn is aligned to the OECD Responsible Mineral Supply Chains Guidance. All the gold that Rand Refinery sources and refines is responsible. We cannot comment on
Responsible sourcing is gaining traction and, increasingly, consumers are asking questions about origin and impact. Companies that irresponsibly source could cause damage to their brand, lose market share and risk censure or legal action, as they might be associated with scandals. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
other parties in SA (eg small mines, refiners, beneficiators and jewellers) who are not part of our supply chain, as we do not have line of sight of their practices. We have seen media reports on zama zama miners and the volume of gold they extract. Would this be classified as non-responsible gold and does this supply make it into the formal market sector via back-door policies? “Zama zama” is a colloquial isiZulu term which means “to try again” or “to take a chance”. It now refers to illegal artisanal miners who conduct mining in mines that have been discontinued. Given that the extraction of a resource without the appropriate licences and royalty/ tax payments is illegal, zama zama mining is against the law. Media reports indicate that it may also be associated with human rights abuses, money-laundering and environmental damage. Gold procured in this way is therefore irresponsible. Zama zama miners do not process their material through formal mining routes, so this material does not form part of the Rand Refinery mining supply chain. Indeed, Rand Refinery monitors its mining supply chain in conformance with the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance. Accordingly, zama zama material is not part of the LBMA products that Rand Refinery delivers to the “formal” market, but this material finds its way outside South Africa through local processors or refiners. What was the reason for Rand Refinery’s joining the LBMA and OECD process? Rand Refinery’s LBMA accreditation allows it to produce products which are tradable on the over-the-counter (OTC) market. The LBMA therefore sets the stringent criteria that enable the global trade in gold and silver bars. It is the de facto standard trusted around the world. Rand Refinery embraces the LBMA Good Delivery Requirements and meets and exceeds these. Rand Refinery is one of only five Global LBMA referees. It is the duty of a referee to ensure the credibility of the LBMA standards, to carry out assays and chemical analysis of gold and silver to the highest possible levels of consistency, precision and accuracy and to manufacture gold and silver reference samples used within the industry. A key part of ensuring the credibility of the LBMA Good Delivery System is responsible sourcing. Rand Refinery is committed to internationally accepted responsible sourcing practices and is in conformance with the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance and the
OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains. Rand Refinery believes that is a differentiator and therefore we are a key participant in (and contributor to) forums regarding best practices in sourcing and inbound supply chain. These include: • OECD Forum on Responsible Minerals Supply Chains • World Bank – OECD Roundtable on Establishing a Global Platform for Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining • International Conference of the Great Lakes Region for the Responsible Sourcing of Minerals In May 2017, Rand Refinery became a signatory to the Global Precious Metal Code that sets out the standards and best practices expected from market participants in the global OTC wholesale precious metals market. Do you believe the current structures in place will reduce the levels of nonresponsible gold making it into the formal market? Rand Refinery implements its own responsible sourcing principles and supports those of other entities in the value chain. The WGC Responsible Mining Principles, the LBMA Responsible Sourcing Guidance and the RJC COC and COP (all of which are OECD-aligned) are believed to be having an effect in reducing levels of nonresponsible gold into the formal market. Have policies put in place by organisations like the World Gold Council (WGC) had any effect on the African continent? The ultimate source/basis of most policies is the OECD, in particular the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals. Based on this, initiatives, policies and guidelines are being formulated across the gold supply chain. For mines: The WGC represents its members, which are mainly large-scale miners (LSMs). The WGC has an initiative underway to define responsible mining principles. In terms of artisanal mining, initiatives are underway, such as ARM and CRAFT. For refiners: LBMA’s Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance is in place and is reviewed and updated regularly as best practices evolve. For downstream actors (eg jewellers): The Responsible Jewellery Councils Code of Practice and Chain of Custody Certification are in place. While these policies and guidance certainly apply to formal supply chains, informal supply chains still require attention as gold finds its way to some non-compliant refiners.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
RETAILING
RETAIL DISPLAYS AND VISUAL MERCHANDISing will always be essential in driving attention and conversion in bricks-and-mortar retail. Studies have shown that much of the information that human beings process comes through the sense of sight. One of the main reasons people shop in stores is to see merchandise in person – and this is all the more reason to design winning retail displays. Use technology to “extend” your displays If you’re seeking ways to showcase your full product lines without cramming your shelves and racks with too much merchandise, then try to use technology to “extend” your displays. Case in point: when online retailer Showpo launched its pop-up store in Los Angeles, it chose to display a small selection of products in the shop. What was cool about the store, though, was that Showpo gave customers the ability to shop their entire catalogue through a touchscreen display. Showpo even took things a step further and used another table to capture customers’ details in-store. To encourage people to provide their e-mail addresses, it threw in a 15% discount (redeemable online) for doing so. Encourage people to touch and feel your products Surveys show that the top reason people shop in bricks-and-mortar stores instead of e-commerce is that physical retail enables them to touch and feel items in person. While there are exceptions, the majority of customers have five ways of engaging with the stores they visit: sight, touch, sound, smell and taste. Nothing beats the human experience. While buying clothes online is ridiculously easy it is no substitute for the real thing – you cannot run your hands over a silk dress, say, or try it on for size. The key takeaway here? Create displays that encourage people to touch and feel your products. If your items are lying on a shelf or a table, still packed inside their boxes, you are missing the chance to connect with your customers.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
Retail display ideas to try in your store Retail store graphics and bright, colourful window displays are an important part of any retail store’s design strategy and are key to a customer’s decision to enter. Higor Torchia, Country Manager for Vend in the UK and EMEA, gives tips and examples of visual merchandising done well. door air quality and act as sound-absorbers, reducing noise pollution.
Use displays to educate people about your products If your products need a bit of explaining, then it could be a good idea to use your displays to educate shoppers about your items. Be witty with your visuals Got a bunch of quotable quotes up your sleeve? See if you can incorporate them into your retail displays. Used correctly, text can complement your products and encourage shoppers to take a closer look. Use plants Need an easy and affordable way to breathe life into your visual merchandising? Use plants. They not only make your displays more attractive, but can also create healthier and more pleasant shopping experiences. Plants also help purify the air, increase in-
Keep things portable Is your store on the small side? Consider using portable displays so you can make better use of your space. They’re easier to move, so you can quickly re-merchandise your shop or make room for other things. Portable displays can also help keep your visual merchandising focused and on-point. Since you have limited space, you’re forced to only display the most important and highestimpact products. Retail success means continuously finding new ways to delight your customers. In a world overloaded with choices and information, it is crucial to cater to the needs of savvier shoppers to stay one step ahead of the competition.
Software firm Vend is extending its growth into SA because of the demand it is seeing from local retailers, says Higor Torchia, Country Manager for Vend in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Vend is cloudbased, point-of-sale and retail management software that lets retailers run their business in-store, online and via mobile. Vend’s solution includes POS software, inventory management, e-commerce, customer loyalty and reporting analytics.
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BUSINESS MANAGEMENT
Businesses need to realign to compete
Accept it or not but there’s a new business model called “always on, always available,” a strategic shift if you want to enter the global marketplace. It’s definitely not business as usual, the shift to the cloud is more dramatic than ever. This is according to Bluegrass Digital managing director Nick Durrant. TO COMPETE ON THE GLOBAL stage, today’s businesses have to be open around the clock 365 days a year. The Internet has accelerated the pace of change: customers want to buy what they want, when they want, regardless of location. In order to remain competitive, businesses need to modernise their ordering systems by taking the processes online. Retailers must optimise and streamline their supply chain and decrease the lag between order and delivery. They must also build convenience into their offering by providing remote services. The new globalised market now also offers customers increased choice of suppliers, which means businesses must fight harder than ever to capture a piece of the market. This is a highly competitive market; modern omnichannel retailers are now even deploying “click-andcollect”-type services, allowing shoppers to order online and collect at their nearest store. It is therefore critical for businesses to offer visitors the right content at the
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right time, based on individual behaviours and preferences. This is where data becomes important – trigger messages based on customer behaviour on the website, such as product interest. Retailers need to compile visitor data according to profiles, journeys, personas or segments. They must also use behavioural data and personal details in their marketing campaigns. Personalisation is a key differentiator for online businesses. It gives them that slight edge and helps build customised offers for clients using previous purchase history – an essential requirement for successful digital marketing.
Customer intelligence products provide retailers with insights about their customers and their preferences to create personalised offers. Tailored deals can be delivered to the customer in real time on the website. Modern e-commerce websites use visitor behaviour to autonomously create and optimise individual content and product views for every visitor, every time. Personalisation helps achieve a superior customer experience and increased visitor engagement. A visitor intelligence product like Episerver Insight empowers companies to both collect and visualise anything from personal details and preferences to transaction history, attributes and classifications, and the multi-channel customer journey. It creates actionable insights with powerful behavioural intelligence and click-stream tracking. It is easy to compile data about one’s visitors if one has the right tools in place. But how many companies are actually using that data to effectively increase engagement with customers? Retailers and service providers cannot continue with business as usual – they need to become “always on, always available” or they will quickly lose market share. Changing customer demands and new economic models require all businesses to be constantly accessible and instantly reachable.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
Eid
MUBARAK AA WATCH WHOLESALERS Wishing all our Muslim clients a blessed fasting month and joyous Eid Mubarak. From the Bassano Gioielli team.
Wishing you a very happy Ramadan. May all your prayers be answered and may God be with you in all the deeds you do!
Wishing all our Muslim clients faith and happiness in the holy month of Ramadan and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.
Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164 Fax: (011) 704-4002 www.bassanogioielli.com
Tel: (012) 323-1774 Fax: (012) 325-7097 E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com
Tel: (012) 342-8978 Email: orders@aawatch.co.za www.aawatch.co.za
Wishing all our Muslim customers and friends, happiness and faith in the holy month of Ramadan and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.
Best wishes to you and your family for a happy and blessed Eid.
Wishing all our Muslim clients faith and happiness in the holy month of Ramadan and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.
Tel: (011) 642-2018/9 Fax: (011) 642-2016 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za www.ungarbros.co.za
Tel: (031) 301-3963 Fax: (086) 528-6516 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za www.piyuvejewellers.co.za
Tel: (011) 883-4627 Fax: (011) 783-2677 E-mail: adris@isikhova.co.za www.isikhova.co.za
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
STATISTICS
DMR releases 2018 Mine Health & Safety Statistics The Department of Mineral Resources (DMR) has released the Mine Health & Safety Statistics for 2018. The department compiles and publishes these statistics annually. They consider the performance of the mining industry from the perspective of health and safety and include information on the number of fatalities, injuries and occupational diseases reported each calendar year. OVERALL, THE RECENTLY RELEASED STATistics by the DMR reveal that there has been a slight decrease in fatalities and injuries across mines in SA. The highlights from the statistics are: Fatalities • 81 fatalities were reported for 2018 – a slight decrease since 2017. Nevertheless, the DMR reiterated that it would continue to engage with its social partners through the Mine Health & Safety Council to ensure a higher degree of safety for mineworkers. • 31% of all fatalities were attributable to fall-of-ground incidents. • The gold sector continues to experience the highest number of fatalities in the mining industry. • In 2018, there were three major disasters at mines in SA which resulted in loss of life.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
Injuries • 2 350 injuries across the mining industry were reported for 2018 – a slight decrease since the 2 669 injuries reported in 2017.
Occupational diseases • No statistic was provided for 2018 on medical deaths due to occupational diseases. • In 2017, the mining industry reported 25 medical deaths due to occupational diseases. Call for harsher punishments Despite the decrease in the number of injuries and fatalities, the National Union of Metalworkers (NUMSA) has called on the DMR to amend the Mine Health & Safety Act 29 of 1996 (MHSA) to guarantee the arrest and criminal prosecution of “mine bosses” following such fatalities and injuries in SA. Notably, there was no statement of support for the taking of disciplinary action against individual employees who may have contravened safety rules and endangered themselves and fellow employees. Notwithstanding the potential constitutional concerns regarding legislation guaranteeing arrest and prosecution in the absence of justifiable reasons for such conduct, the calls for this amendment appear to discount or forget that criminal prosecution in the event of a breach of the MHSA and/or negligent causing of a serious injury or illness is already provided for in the MHSA. Section 91(1) of the
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STATISTICS MHSA stipulates that any person who fails to comply with the provisions of the MHSA commits an offence and may be prosecuted. This applies equally to corporate entities, which may be prosecuted in terms of section 332 of the Criminal Procedure Act and the responsible individual. The potential penalties for such offences include imprisonment. The call for the arrest of “mining bosses” incorrectly assumes that only senior managerial personnel can be criminally prosecuted. Section 86(1) of the MHSA provides that a negligent act or negligent omission of any person which causes serious injury or serious illness to another is an offence. Any call for increases in criminal prosecution following mining-related fatalities must then equally apply to all employees and any employee who may have acted negligently (such as failing to comply with a safety rule on which such an employee had been trained) should lead to swift prosecution. There is also no need, in our view, to amend the MHSA to ensure that sufficiently serious sentences can be meted out by the courts. The MHSA already contemplates the ability of the courts to withdraw or suspend mining authorisations of an employer and individuals may face charges of culpable homicide or even murder, in certain instances. NUMSA’s call could be attributed to the low number of criminal prosecutions seen in the mining industry. A number of factors contribute to the lack of appetite by the National Prosecuting Authority to initiate criminal proceedings for breaches of the MHSA. These include: • Successful prosecutions may be dependent on, or at least affected by, the information gathered during investigations and in quiries held by the DMR. If the information is insufficient or has been gathered in a flawed manner, this decreases the chances of success of any prosecution – a con-
•
sideration required to be taken before charges are brought by the state. The manner in which inquiries are run and witnesses questioned may lead to procedural and administrative irregularities, which can make successful prosecutions impossible.
• The lack of capacity and/or specialised and experienced inspectors who can properly deal with the intricacies of each accident and have an understanding of the mining environment and legislation. • The failure (or extensive delay) in issuing post-inquiry reports setting out findings and recommendations. Upon releasing the statistics, the DMR confirmed that it plays an important role in “monitoring and enforcing compliance with the law”. It also called on all “social partners to play their part to realise the overarching objective of ensuring that every mineworker returns home unharmed, every single day”. “Safety at the mines is everybody’s responsibility – companies, workers and government. While there are improvements, we must do more in this area,” concludes the department.
Despite the decrease in the number of injuries and fatalities, the National Union of Metalworkers (NUMSA) has called on the DMR to amend the Mine Health & Safety Act 29 of 1996 (MHSA) to guarantee the arrest and criminal prosecution of “mine bosses” following such fatalities and injuries in SA. Notably, there was no statement of support for the taking of disciplinary action against individual employees who may have contravened safety rules and endangered themselves and fellow employees. 26
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
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LITTLE GEMS
Millions of years ago, nature created a store of wealth and beauty beneath the soil of embedded civilisation within rocks. Alice Weil reports on one museum which is a repository for some of nature’s beauty and bounty. AN EXHIBITION OF GEMS and minerals emanating from the four corners of the globe is one of New York’s major attractions for visitors interested in natural history. It is appropriately named the Museum of Natural History and features a formidable array of gems of incredible sizes and colours and attracts an endless stream of visitors. Situated on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, it took six years to design and build the exhibit – from 1970-1975 – and on display are many renowned samples chosen from the museum’s over 100 000 pieces. It hosts one of the world’s largest and most exclusive geology selections. Originally founded in 1869, it has advanced its global mission to deliver, interpret and disseminate information about human culture, the natural world and the universe through a wideranging programme of scientific research, educational programmes and exhibitions. The Hall of Minerals is one of the most important and comprehensive collections of its type on the planet and contains about 185 000 specimens of rocks and other types of minerals. Most colourful is the Hall of Gems, which contains a number of spectacular gemstones, the most renowned being the world’s largest sapphire – the six-pointed Star of India of 563ct, polished into the shape of a cabochon or dome to enhance the stone’s beauty. It was discovered over 300 years ago in Sri Lanka, most likely in the sands of the river beds where sap-
An extraordinary museum
© Daniel Torres, Jr. / Wikimedia Commons
phires are still found today. It was donated to the museum by American financier JP Morgan and displayed in the Guggenheim Hall. Another magnicficent stone is the Patricia Emerald, a superbly coloured, 12-sided crystal of 632ct. Reconstructed in the Morgan
Memorial Hall is also a pocket of tourmaline gems discovered in the mountains of San Diego in southern California. The clear rock crystal, believed by the Greeks to be permanently frozen water, is also here. Then there is the 100,32ct DeLong Star Ruby – one of the largest ever found – and a magnificent 270kg topaz. The Star of India, the DeLong Star Ruby and another treasure – the 16,25ct Eagle Diamond – were among the stones stolen from the museum in 1964 by burglars who gained entry by climbing through a bathroom window they had unlocked hours before the museum closed. The DeLong Star Ruby and the Star of India were eventually recovered, but the Eagle Diamond has never been seen again and is thought to have been re-cut or lost. The mastermind of the heist was Jack Murphy, a surfer, musician, artist and convicted murderer. The Museum of Natural History’s Grand Gallery has been in a developmental stage since October 2017 and the space is being redesigned to provide a new home for this wonderful collection, which also includes organic materials such as coral and amber which are prized as gems. The museum is a spectacular repository which visitors to New York should not miss seeing.
The Hall of Gems contains a number of spectacular gemstones, the most renowned being the world’s largest sapphire – the sixpointed Star of India of 563ct. 28
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2019
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