SA Jewellery News • June 2022

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SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052 Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

10. NEWS • “Hope” announced as the 2022 theme for PlatAfrica • iTraceiT rolls out blockchain-based application for tracing diamonds and jewellery • Bvlgari quits RJC board • Jewellex on the move • World Diamond Council removes Alrosa • Impilo Collection Foundation initiative uplifts girls and women through #EmpowerHer campaign • Record-breaking “De Beers Blue” fetches US$57,5 million • GIA expands gem origin services with GIA Source Verify • A Global Pearl Narrative examines viability of generic pearl marketing approach

14. THE CAPE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY: WHO SURVIVED? WHAT CHANGED? The impact of COVID-19 was particularly devastating on the economy of destinations dependent on international visitors, such as the Western Cape, writes Dr Petré Prins, MD of Cape Town-based Prins & Prins Diamonds.

14 18. CAPE TOWN RANKED THIRDGREATEST CITY ON EARTH In a survey conducted by the UK’s Telegraph, Cape Town was ranked the third-best city on earth. Barcelona took first place, followed by Sydney. Los Angeles, Dubai, London, Vancouver and Florence were also among the top 10. The Mother City came in third primarily because of its extraordinary topography and geography.

21. MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of SA initiative – extracts from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook.

savvy thinkers smart doers together people

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

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36. GERMANY BECKONS SWISS WATCH BRANDS

A Cape Town museum is dedicated to the history of diamonds and other precious gems. Locals and tourists alike can experience a journey through time where they will learn about the fascinating history of diamonds, gems and much more at the Museum of Gems and Jewellery.

34. DE BEERS INTRODUCES WORLD’S FIRST BLOCKCHAINBACKED DIAMOND SOURCE PLATFORM TracrTM is an advanced technology platform developed by the De Beers Group to underpin trust in diamond provenance. Through the use of leading-edge technologies, TracrTM enables confidence in a diamond’s source throughout the diamond value chain.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

Moonstones – one of the three birthstones for June – are believed to be named for the bluish-white spots within them which, when held up to the light, project a silvery play of colour very much like moonlight.

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Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 signalled the end of a three-year disruption to the watch industry cycle of trade fairs caused by the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic, writes reviewer for the Horological Journal, Martin Foster.

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On the cover JPPE Lapidary (Pty) Ltd has been manufacturing to the jewellery industry for over 50 years. “Our passion for gemstones and jewellery inspires us to create stunning jewellery in all the colours of the rainbow.

We’re proud of our South African heritage and strive to manufacture a range of locally

41. FANCY COLOUR DIAMOND PRICES UP Prices of fancy colour diamonds grew 1% in the first quarter, according to the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF). Pink fancy colour prices gained 1,3%, with yellows up 0,7%.

made jewellery on a par with international standards. All our jewellery is backed with a 100% service guarantee.” Contact Kyle Gilson on tel: (021) 424-7764 or e-mail: info@jppe.co.za. Visit the JPPE Lapidary website at: www.jppe.co.za.

42. LITTLE GEMS: A GEM OF A MUSEUM Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022.

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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SAJN | EDITOR’S NOTE

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Editor’s

WRITING MY EDITOR’S NOTE EVERY MONTH is something I enjoy tremendously. It is always the last thing I write when putting an issue together. Most months, it seems there is not enough space to pen my thoughts – on the industry, on things happening here and globally, and on my personal experiences. I always try to speak from the heart and hope that what I write connects with other people.

However, something funny happened this issue – for the first time, I did not know what to write.

According to Wikipedia, “writer’s block is a condition, primarily associated with writing, in which an author loses the ability to produce new work or experiences a creative slowdown. This loss of ability to write and produce new work is not a result of commitment problems or the lack of writing skills. The condition ranges from difficulty in coming up with original ideas to being unable to produce a work for years. Writer’s block is not solely measured by time passing without writing. It is measured by time passing without productivity in the task at hand.”

“Time passing without productivity in the task at hand.”

Those words made me think. I have spoken to so many people recently who are also experiencing “writer’s block” in their jobs or personal lives – the “block”, it seems, is not just for writers anymore.

The past two years have been difficult for most people – many are suffering financial hardship, there are more stressors regarding physical health and many negative stories headlining on news channels. All of these have a chance of impacting on our enthusiasm, resilience and creativity.

So what do we do? Initially, positive psychology focused mainly on pursuing rewarding experiences that made people feel more joyful. However, psychologists soon realised that this sort of happiness depends on fleeting experiences, rather than a more enduring sense of contentment. As a result, the focus shifted to cultivating satisfaction and well-being while staying open to the full range of emotional experiences, both good and bad.

“Positive psychology isn’t about denying difficult emotions. It’s about opening your-

self to what’s happening here and now, and cultivating and savouring the good in your life,” says Ron Siegel, PsyD, Assistant Professor of Psychology at the Harvard Medical School.

If you develop the habit of counting your blessings, for example, you may be better able to appreciate the positive aspects of life, even after a painful event like a job loss. And helping others, even when you are struggling, can increase your positive feelings and restore your perspective.

Growing evidence suggests that positive psychological techniques can indeed be valuable in times of stress, grief or other difficulties. Where to start? Be more mindful, share some kindness and practise gratitude.

While life has its beautiful moments, there are times when hope seems far away. It is at these challenging moments that we should be open to opportunities for change and refinement.

Take care of yourselves and each other.

Adri Viviers

WE’VE MOVED! Address: Suite G09, Ground Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, 2196 Tel: (011) 268-2385 | E-mail: ml@mldiamonds.com

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

SAJN | NEWS

“HOPE” IS THE 2022 THEME FOR PLATAFRICA Entries are now open for the 23rd edition of PlatAfrica, South Africa’s premier platinum jewellery design and manufacturing competition. This year’s theme, “Hope”, is inspired by the world’s COVID-19 experience and the embrace of sustainability and meaningful luxury. “Designers are required to interpret the #Hope theme through specific design hooks that speak to new perspectives, transitions and interconnectedness,” says Pallavi Sharma, Business Director of Platinum Guild International India (PGI India).

“Judges will be looking for creativity, originality and interpretation of the #Hope theme in delivery of design expectations, along with an assessment of technical excellence.”

Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum, in partnership with PGI India and Metal Concentrators, PlatAfrica aims to increase local beneficiation and position platinum as the jewellery metal of choice for discerning consumers.

The competition will again feature three prize categories – professionals, apprentices and students – and the People’s Choice award.

Metal requests for entry must be received before 1 June and participants must submit their final design pieces by 29 July.

BVLGARI QUITS RJC BOARD Two more luxury brands have curtailed their involvement in the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) as the fallout from the RussiaUkraine war continues.

Bvlgari stepped down from the organisation’s boards. The Italian jeweller – which represents LVMH and its other brands at the RJC – will remain a member of the standards group.

“This decision is linked to several issues faced by [the RJC’s] current governance,” says an LVMH spokesperson. “That’s also the reason we currently remain RJC members, as we think it’s important to stay in order to weigh on the stakes that must be addressed to ensure the proper functioning of the council.”

UK-based Watches of Switzerland, one of the world’s largest retailers of Rolexes and Patek Philippes, has gone a step further, giving up its membership.

The RJC has seen a string of resignations recently in response to its decision not to remove Alrosa, in which the Russian government owns a 33% stake. The miner left the board in early March, but remained an RJC member until announcing its exit a few weeks ago.

“The RJC’s approach goes against the common values we expect from our industry in re-

BLOCKCHAIN-BASED APPLICATION FOR TRACING DIAMONDS AND JEWELLERY iTraceiT, the Belgian-based innovative technology and service provider that developed a comprehensive, blockchain-based application for tracing diamonds, gemstones and jewellery, has begun distribution after completing prolonged beta testing with some of the largest firms in the global diamond industry.

The iTraceiT application creates a unique, blockchain-supported QR code that records, stores and reports all processes performed on diamonds and gemstones, keeping track of every action taken throughout the production process, ie from the rough to the finished piece of jewellery.

“With iTraceiT, users can create and integrate a comprehensive, digital chain of reference for all their products,” says iTraceiT CEO Frederik Degryse. “We’re confident that our application’s affordability, seamless integration into a company’s workflow and ease of use will appeal to all, especially those hesitant about adopting a blockchain-based tool into their business management models. During our beta testing, the integration of the iTraceiT application into a company’s production process and business model proved easy and efficient.”

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sponse to the situation. We’ve therefore decided to withdraw our membership from the RJC,” said Watches of Switzerland.

Other recent developments include the resignation of RJC Executive Director Iris van der Veken and the withdrawal of Danish jeweller Pandora from the organisation.

Tiffany & Co – which, like Bvlgari, is part of LVMH – recently decided to stop using Russian diamonds, regardless of where they are cut and polished. The American sanctions do not ban imports of Russian goods manufactured in other countries. The decision was “taken simultaneously and in alignment with other LVMH brands”, said the LVMH spokesperson.

–Rapaport

Degryse stresses that by integrating the iTraceiT application into their production and marketing processes, users comply with the strict demands of ethical and economic compliance, transparency and traceability in the current market. “Governments, banks and financial institutions, trade organisations and NGOs, wholesale and retail clients, as well as end consumers, all demand that the provenance of diamonds and gemstones be crystal-clear and clean. By integrating the iTraceiT application into their business models, industry operators at all levels of the supply pipeline are guaranteed peace of mind,” he says.

He adds that the pandemic and recent global events have made digital innovation, traceability and transparency indispensable in the diamond industry. “The digital revolution has transformed the diamond, gem and jewellery industry and trade. The increase in the availability of data, the degree of connectivity and the speed at which we need to take decisions have driven us all to adopt digital methods and tools that enable us to run our diamond and jewellery businesses successfully and profitably in this new reality.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

NEWS | SAJN

IMPILO COLLECTION FOUNDATION INITIATIVE UPLIFTS GIRLS AND WOMEN THROUGH #EMPOWERHER CAMPAIGN Founded by Angela Yeung, founder and CEO of Impilo Collection, a bespoke jewellery design company based in Johannesburg, the Impilo Collection Foundation serves the community through various humanitarian projects including #EmpowerHer, The Humanity Driver, The Dignity Drive and Reading Buddies.

The foundation recently reached the halfway mark of its Gauteng-wide distribution of over 6 000 quality bras to vulnerable communities.

The bras were collected and displayed at Constitution Hill last year during the 16 Days of Activism Against Gender-Based Violence.

The distribution drive was launched on 11 March this year in the north of Johannesburg in commemoration of International Women’s Month. Over 1 000 bras were distributed to FWC Welfare & Development, the Salvation Army in Braamfontein and the Alex Feeding Scheme and the initiative proved to be more than just a bra distribution.

“On 18 March, we had our second bra distribution day at the Springbok informal settlement, joined by Faeeza Chame, Councillor from the City of Johannesburg. Hundreds of

girls and women received two good-quality bras which were washed and pre-packaged and had their bra measurements done on the day,” explains Yeung.

The foundation also had distributions on both the West and East Rand of Gauteng at Little Choices, a home for young mothers, Missions and Mercy Ministries, Kids’ Haven in Benoni, Tembisa Child and Family Welfare and the Phronesis Students’ Development Trust.

“This visit was also a wake-up call for us regarding the amount of work that still needs to be done in our communities. We met women who were afraid to take bras with frills or colours for fear of violence when they returned home,” says Ntokozo Khumalo, Vice-President of Public Relations at the foundation.

Jasmine Black, Vice-President of Education at the foundation and project leader of the #EmpowerHer bra drive, led the East Rand and south of Johannesburg distribution. She says she was amazed by the overwhelming need for bras and believes the drive will definitely become a yearly initiative for the foundation.

“Our motto is: ‘We stand for humanity’.

Women are an essential part of our society.

These bras are just the first step in enabling them to feel confident and empowered to turn their dreams into reality.”

The Impilo Collection Foundation plans to launch a programme later this year that will upskill and provide vulnerable women with the resources needed to become financially independent.

WORLD DIAMOND COUNCIL REMOVES ALROSA The World Diamond Council (WDC) ended Alrosa’s membership in response to the latest American sanctions against the Russian miner.

“The deciding factor [was] the sanctions issued by the Office of Foreign Assets Control [OFAC] on the evening of 7 April,” said the council. “The termination of membership includes the cessation of any rights and benefits afforded to WDC members, such as a seat on the board of directors and participation in any

doing business with Alrosa.

The latest American measures prohibit transactions involving property of Alrosa, unless there is a specific licence or exemption.

American companies that had not already stopped doing direct business with it since the previous sanctions “must now absolutely cease doing so”, said the Jewelers’ Vigilance Committee in an alert to members.

“The safest course of action for all American

American business continues to deal in these goods, even indirectly, it will be at risk of encountering issues upon importation or the freezing of assets.”

Several trade groups have suspended ties with Alrosa and other Russian companies in light of the Western sanctions that have intensified since Russia’s 24 February invasion of Ukraine.

Two weeks ago, the World Jewellery

WDC committee.”

The WDC, which represents the industry at the Kimberley Process (KP), is incorporated in the American state of Delaware. Recently, OFAC – which is part of the US Department of the Treasury – banned American entities from

businesses is to tell all suppliers that they will no longer purchase any goods that originated from Alrosa,” according to the organisation, which provides legal guidance to the trade.

“It is not yet clear how OFAC or US Customs will interpret this new designation, but if an

Confederation confirmed that Andrey Yurin, head of Gokhran, the Russian state gem depository, was no longer on its board of directors or Vice-President of its precious metals commission. Gokhran assumed “observer” status. – Rapaport

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SAJN | NEWS

JEWELLEX ON THE MOVE The challenges of the past couple of years have required the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) to rethink its strategy in line with the changing needs of the industry.

“As such, we’re creating opportunities at suitable venues for jewellers to sell directly to the public,” says Lorna Lloyd, the JCSA’s CEO. “We’ll also be launching sales for the Jewellex365 Online B2B business platform in the

coming month to wholesalers, manufacturers and importers to sell products and services to the trade 365 days a year.”

Jewellex Africa will, for now, not be hosted in the same format as previously. However, a proposal is being put forward to host regional Jewellex Roadshows in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town. “The idea would be to host such a roadshow at a hotel or suitable venue

at which exhibitors would receive an affordable package,” says Lloyd. “For this proposal to be considered, we require your input and advice.” To participate in the survey, click on the following link: https://www.surveymonkey. com/r/?sm=Hbs3vbTzln_2Fv0yOyM_2BwrkQ_ 3D_3D. For further information, contact the JCSA on e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

RECORD-BREAKING “DE BEERS BLUE” FETCHES US$57,5 MILLION On 28 April at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, a significant new benchmark for the diamond market was set as the De Beers Blue, a 15,10 step-cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, the largest of its kind ever to appear at auction, sold for US$57,5 million – among the highest prices ever achieved for a diamond of any colour on the open market.

on the telephone. The final price achieved (US$57 471 960) is a near-tie with the current record-holder for a blue diamond, achieved in 2016 when the Oppenheimer Blue (14,62ct) sold for US$57 541 779.

This wonder of nature had been recently cut from an exceptional rough stone discovered

internally flawless step-cut vivid blue diamond that the Gemological Institute of America has ever graded. Blue diamonds of this importance are exceptionally rare, with only five 10ct+ examples ever having come to auction, none of which have exceeded 15ct, making the appearance of this flawless gem a landmark

A prolonged eight-minute bidding battle between four contestants took the price well beyond the US$48 million pre-sale estimate, with the stone finally selling to a client represented by Wenhao Yu, Chairperson of Jewellery and Watches at Sotheby’s Asia

in 2021 at South Africa’s legendary Cullinan Mine, one of very few sources in the world for extremely rare blue diamonds. In its masterfully crafted, newly-formed state, it re-emerged as the largest vivid blue diamond ever to appear at auction and the largest

event in itself.

“This diamond ranks as one of the best De Beers has ever seen and we’re incredibly proud to join forces with Sotheby’s to share this defining moment in history,” says Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group.

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SAJN’S ANNUAL COVER OF THE YEAR 2021 WINNER ANNOUNCED

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metals home of precious The The home of precious metals

• PlatAfrica 2021: the winners of Metamo rphosis morphosis • Molto bene [well winners of Meta done], : theVicenza 2021 oro!

• PlatAfrica • Versatil e white metals done], Vicenzaoro! [well • Molto bene • Winners of Shining Light ls Awards white meta unveiled tile Versa led • Awards unvei Shining Light • Winners of

You cast your votes and it was clear one cover emerged ahead of the pack – that of Metcon’s flagship refinery, MetCon SEZ, which is located in Kempton Park, Gauteng. This was featured on SAJN’s November 2021 issue.

Congratulations to the Metcon team, who win a free full-page ad in SA Jewellery News. And, of course, to the runners-up. Second place went to Gemfields for its October 2021 cover and third place to James Ralph for

its July 2021 Casio cover, winning it a free half-page and quarter-page ad respectively.

Now in its second year, SAJN’s Cover of the Year has become a prestigious competition not only in terms of the prizes, but in acknowledging brand recognition and smart design.

To secure your cover position and a chance to be entered into this year’s competition, contact Ruwayda on (011) 883-4627 or e-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za.

LARGEST WHITE DIAMOND EVER AUCTIONED SELLS FOR US$21,9 MILLION Dubbed “The Rock”, the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for US$21,9 million at Christie’s annual Magnificent Jewels last month.

The 228,31ct pear-shaped gemstone was sold to a person whose name and city of residence Christie’s did not want to cite. One of the diamond’s three previous buyers was based in the USA and the other two in the Middle East.

“The Rock” is approximately the size of a golf ball and originated from South Africa. Mined in the early 2000s, it was previously owned by a family of avid jewellery collectors, who

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transformed it into a necklace and decided to sell the gem after eight years to invest in other stones for their collection, says Max Fawcett, a Christie’s jewellery specialist based in Geneva.

“This stone is the central marquee piece in any jewellery collection and stands as one of the rarest gems on earth,” he says.

Despite its grandeur, the hammer price of “The Rock” fell short of its low estimate during the quick bidding period. The auction house had given the diamond a US$30,2 million high estimate.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

Introducing JewelStart

GIA EXPANDS GEM ORIGIN SERVICES WITH GIA SOURCE VERIFY The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is expanding its gem origin services to provide retailers and consumers with the diamond source information they demand.

To address this need for real-time, unbiased diamond source information, the institute is expediting the development and deployment of GIA Source Verify™, a new service offering reliable diamond origin information to consumers, enabling them to make informed purchase decisions. The new service, still in development, will verify the country where natural diamonds were mined and laboratory-grown diamonds produced by leveraging existing processes based on third-party verified documents, including Kimberley Process certificates and invoices provided by diamond manufacturers and

“Now more than ever, the GIA is uniquely positioned to protect consumers by giving them the vital diamond source information they demand and the confidence they deserve when making purchase decisions. This is the right thing to do and the right time to do it.”

“GIA’s new service provides a transparent diamond origin solution from an organisation that consumers know and trust,” says Katherine Bodoh, CEO of the American Gem Society (AGS). “In today’s environment, communicating a diamond’s origin is a must for AGS members and all retailers.”

The GIA will continue to offer its Diamond Origin Report and coloured stone origin reports.

It anticipates launching the service in the near future. More information will be available as details of the service are finalised.

others in the supply chain. GIA will offer the service at no additional cost and the source information will be easily accessed exclusively through GIA’s online Report Check service.

“The Source Verify service is an extension of our important consumer-protection mission,” says GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques.

Approach risk with purpose.

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A GLOBAL PEARL NARRATIVE EXAMINES VIABILITY OF GENERIC PEARL MARKETING APPROACH CIBJO’s latest Jewellery Industry Voices webinar focused on the potential of developing a collective marketing strategy for pearls, with the co-operation of independent companies around the world, and was titled A Global Pearl Narrative: The Case for Generic Promotion.

Cultivated rather than mined, requiring pristinely maintained marine biospheres and often supporting communities at risk of extreme climatic events, pearls have the rare distinction of being among the few truly sustainable gem varieties.

Where the pearl industry lags, however, is in its capacity to mount a co-ordinated marketing approach, highlighting the key qualities which should attract younger, sustainabilityconscious consumers.

While the benefits of generic marketing would seem patently obvious for the pearl sector, the task of establishing a structure that could manage such an undertaking is fraught with difficulty and its operation would be restrictively expensive. However, there are

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solutions which – while falling short of what is being done in the gold and diamond sectors – could nonetheless co-ordinate the messaging of pearl companies around the word, while enabling each of them to strengthen its particular brand identity.

The webinar panel included Christine Salter, Creative Director of Paspaley Pearl Company, Marion Branellec de Guzman, Chief Marketing Officer of Jewelmer, Shari Turpin, owner of the Pearls by Shari brand and David Norman, owner of Aquarian Pearls. The seminar was co-moderated by Edward Johnson and Steven Benson.

Dear Members We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, offers entry-level, bespoke cover for entrepreneurs and small businesses.

“JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions for jewellery businesses that are navigating changing market conditions and challenges that have been exacerbated by the pandemic. It is ideal for new entrants to the jewellery industry or businesses that have had to adapt their strategy to operate in less conventional ways. For example, those servicing customers from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellery and Precious Assets.

Bryte is excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council, for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the new start-up jewellery business.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

brytesa.com SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Policy terms and conditions apply.

SAJN | INDUSTRY: CAPE TOWN

The impact of COVID-19 was particularly devastating for the economies of destinations depending on international visitors, like the Western Cape, writes Dr Petré Prins, MD of Cape Town-based Prins & Prins Diamonds.

WHEN COVID-19 STRUCK IN MAY 2020, goldsmith Jerome Hendricks was laid off after 10 years of making fine jewellery for a store at the Cape Town Waterfront. His redundancy underlines the dependency of many Cape jewellers on the buying power of international tourists. Hendricks joined his uncle’s auto workshop and his skills are now lost to the jewellery industry.

Sadly, without state support, Cape jewellers and workshops dependent on tourism had to close during the pandemic and are awaiting the return of their market. Some of them will not re-open.

Black tour operators and guides may have received financial support from the government (a support programme for black tourism

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businesses was announced, but whether it materialised is unknown to me). My company offered financial assistance to tour guides who supported us in the past and we trust they will continue to support us in the future. Most jewellery employees received about six months’ UIF payments, while our state of emergency lasted nearly two years. I am not aware of a single retail jeweller in Cape Town who qualified for any of the various financial support schemes announced at the pandemic’s start.

Who survived?

• Established online stores with low overheads were the only winners. Since 2020, global e-jewellery sales have increased about 25% annually and a similar or better result could

apply to most of our online operators.

• Bricks-and-mortar jewellers with a well-built website and large stockholding could focus on e-commerce and work from home.

• Well-established Cape retailers who had

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

INDUSTRY: CAPE TOWN | SAJN

If these figures are correct, Cape jewellery manufacturers play a much larger role in the local economy than I ever imagined. After all, R2,2 billion represents the exportation of more than 1,8 tons of 18ct jewellery, costing R1 200 per gram. Could opportunistic and unsung entrepreneurs use the USA-AGOA Act to achieve such a volume of mass-produced gold jewellery?

built a large local client base remained open.

• Most shops of our larger chains remained open.

• Unfortunately, many independent Cape retailers were ill-prepared for distance selling, under-financed and had to develop a new and costly Internet presence. Their marketing effort had to shift to social media, in which they had scant experience. They truly struggled.

• Those retailers and workshops who were dependent on tourist sales had no choice but to close their doors and lay off staff. They are now re-opening.

I believe many retail jewellers worked harder during the pandemic than ever before and those who did survive now have a deep dent in their bank balances.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

What has changed?

There has been a notable shift in worker demographics. In the Western Cape, girl-power is blowing like a fresh breeze through our industry.

Over the past decade, more than 90% of jewellery design and manufacture students at Stellenbosch University, the Cape Peninsula University of Technology and the Ruth Prowse School of Art have been female. Thirty to forty female graduates are thus entering the Cape jewellery industry annually – either as interns, designers, sales consultants or bench workers.

A young male goldsmith is as scarce as red beryl. The traditional all-male Cape Malay family workshops are also disappearing fast.

Even before COVID-19, newly-graduated female designers had teamed up. With no existing client base, but much social media savvy, they cater to a growing, city-living younger generation. Within a few years, they have developed substantial social media followings. For instance, their Instagram following ranges from 10 000-50 000 and is growing, compared with the traditional family jeweller’s 2 000-6 000 followers.

They are producing “demi-fine” jewellery, an emerging category that falls between fine and costume. Their innovative designs are made in wood, stainless steel, silver and precious metals, set with inexpensive coloured gems and salt-and-pepper diamonds. It has intrinsic value sans the price tag of fine jewellery and often features pre-engagement or friendship rings.

Within a few years, these girls will be selling diamond engagement rings to their followers.

Re-building networks Before COVID-19, sales to international visitors were the lifeblood of many Cape jewellers and their workshops. Over the years, these retailers had established a network of tour operators and guides, concierges at hotels and guesthouses who referred tourists to them. They now have to re-establish their referring networks because their old contacts have moved on.

Sales patterns At the start of the pandemic, the South African economy was already in dire straits and the buying power of jewellery consumers was going south. The coronavirus impact was initially expected to last no longer than six months and most Cape jewellers were prepared to hang on.

However, when SA was red-listed for a second time, our state of emergency was extended, power-outs escalated, rioters plundered KwaZulu-Natal and many Cape tourism and jewellery companies feared the worst. A few closed their businesses for good.

During the pandemic, diamond jewellery and watch sales reached unprecedented peaks in the USA and China. It is a sad truth that this did not happen in SA. Our state coffers were bare, without funds to counter the virus’s financial impact on personal lives, as was possible in most developed countries. Due to consumers’ financial hardship and political uncertainty, retail jewellery sales in the Western Cape have been dismal for the past two years.

A slow recovery When our borders finally re-opened, a surge of international tourists was expected.

Unfortunately, tourism worldwide has not lived up to expectations. In the first quarter of 2022, international visitors returned to 40% of pre-COVID-19 arrivals in the Western Cape and my company’s sales improved similarly.

The same may apply to other Cape jewellers serving the tourist market. Our jewellery sales are still far from pre-pandemic volumes, but hope springs eternal and I believe a good future awaits those prepared to tackle the new challenges.

15

SAJN | INDUSTRY: CAPE TOWN Incredible exports In the Argus of 15 March this year, David Maynier, the Western Cape’s Finance and Economic Opportunities MEC, wrote: “The Western Cape’s global exports grew by 22,1% in 2021. For the first time, the USA was the Western Cape’s largest export market, with exports totalling close to R17 billion – an increase of 57,5% over that of 2020. Flat-rolled products of iron or non-alloy steel rank as the largest exported products to the USA, to a value of R2,5 billion last year, followed by articles of jewellery at R2,2 billion, citrus fruits at R1,8 billion and yachts and sports vessels at R1 billion.”

If these figures are correct, Cape jewellery manufacturers play a much larger role in the local economy than I ever imagined. After all, R2,2 billion represents the exportation of more than 1,8 tons of 18ct jewellery, costing R1 200 per gram. Could opportunistic and unsung entrepreneurs use the USA-AGOA Act to achieve such a volume of mass-produced gold jewellery?

A few decades ago, this publication provided useful information on the annual export/import figures of Krugerrands, rough and polished diamonds, gold jewellery, pearls and coloured gems. This is a kind request for such figures to be published annually again.

Loss of skills During COVID-19, many jewellery workers were forced to find alternative employment and are probably lost forever to our industry. At the same time, very little training for goldsmiths, bench workers and salespeople took place.

Thus far, no new training internships have been allocated for 2022/23. If the MQA, our SETA responsible for training, does not get its act together, future growth will be a pipe dream.

With the return of international tourists, workshops and retailers that took a two-year hiatus are re-opening. Understandably, they struggle to find experienced personnel and have no choice but to pirate staff from those

strapped consumers liquidated old gold and jewellery by the ton and dealers in these commodities had a field day.

who, at significant cost, retained their workers during the pandemic.

A boom in online auctions Our larger auction houses stopped their virtual operations and seamlessly continued selling jewellery via online auctions. A few mid-sized jewellers provided stock to these auctions, while others added an auction app to their websites and moved some inventory.

Second-hand gold sell-off The high gold price came as a life-saver to many jewellers, as they could liquidate redundant inventory, while others used their idle workshops to remodel and upgrade their stock. Cash-

Dr Petré Prins, MD of Prins & Prins Diamonds, studied geology and geochemistry at the University of Stellenbosch and spent two years doing post-graduate research at the University of Cambridge in England. He was then appointed senior lecturer in geology and mineralogy at Stellenbosch University, where he taught for 12 years.

Prins has received the Corstophine Medal from the Geological Society of SA, as well as the SJ Shand Medal from Stellenbosch University. He completed his MBA in 1979, joined Octha Diamonds in 1980 and registered Prins & Prins Diamonds in 1982.

16

The end of 18ct white gold jewellery?

The popularity of 18ct white gold reached a peak in 2019. Then COVID-19 interfered and the price of gold, palladium and rhodium skyrocketed. An unexpected result could be the disappearance of 18ct white gold and the return of platinum alloys for fine jewellery. This could require the retraining of goldsmiths not used to working in platinum.

Staff and consumer needs have changed The COVID-19 catastrophe confronted human mortality and made us re-evaluate our priorities. The needs of workers and consumers have changed and jewellers need to realise that their clients will be wanting meaningful purchases.

In a follow-up article, I will assess the postCOVID-19 changes in consumer expectations and how jewellers should approach them.

Afterthought: International tourism will normalise and the war in Ukraine will be resolved.

Imagine the pent-up demand in Europe, the Americas and Asian nations for travels to countries with sunshine, wide-open spaces, wildlife and even wilder adventures. And with our weak currency, there will be no better destination than Cape Town – if our retailers can only survive until then.

NB: The above is my personal opinion, not that of SAJN or the SAJC, and is based on personal experiences while sitting out the most devastating period in my 40 years as a retailer and jewellery manufacturer in the Western Cape.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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PAUL Sales Agent National +27 82 667 3456

ZALANDI Sales Agent Cape Town +27 66 430 4630

TROY Gemstones Sales (Whatsapp Only) +27 71 291 5465

SAJN | TOURISM INDUSTRY

Cape Town ranked thirdgreatest city on earth In a survey conducted by the UK’s Telegraph, Cape Town was ranked the third-best city on earth. Barcelona took first place, followed by Sydney. Los Angeles, Dubai, London, Vancouver and Florence were also among the top 10. The Mother City came in third primarily because of its extraordinary topography and geography.

A RANKING USING OBJECTIVE MEASURES has put Cape Town above cities such as London, Paris and New York in a survey ranking the greatest city on the planet. Cape Town was the highest-ranking city in Africa. Only one other African city made the top 50 list – Marrakesh, Morocco, coming in at number 50.

With The Telegraph having over 16 million readers from around the world, the accolade is really good news for the tourism industry and therefore for Cape Town’s jewellery industry.

Cities were assessed based on the following aspects: • Population density in urban areas.

• Disabled accessibility.

• Homicide rates per the UN Office on Drugs and Crime.

• Annual hours of sunshine.

• Biggest park size.

• Age of oldest building.

• LGBTQ+ safety.

• Museums and galleries.

• Highest observation point – including natural vantage points.

• Five-star hotels.

• Michelin-starred restaurants.

• Distance between city centre and closest airport.

• Unesco World Heritage Sites.

• Clean air per Carbon Disclosure Project

environmental performance index.

Bonus points were given to cities with a beach, a bike or scooter-sharing scheme, a metro system with more than just buses and railways, a canal system, harbour or river and a symphony orchestra.

Barcelona fared well on all factors, scoring 588 out of a possible 810 points, but was marked down due to its green-space ranking and its high population density, which is roughly about 10 times that of Cape Town.

Cape Town’s outstanding topography and geography made it stand out from other cities, but because of a high crime rate and poor safety record, it did not place higher on the list.

Cape Town is the only African city on the list: 1. Barcelona 2. Sydney 3. Cape Town 4. Lisbon 5. Venice 6. Los Angeles 7. Dubai 8. London 9. Vancouver 10. Florence

18

11. Stockholm 12. Paris 13. Seville 14. San Francisco 15. Melbourne 16. Vienna 17. Madrid 18. Singapore 19. Dubrovnik 20. Beijing

21. Tokyo 22. Rome 23. Berlin 24. Dublin 25. Istanbul 26. Auckland 27. Edinburgh 28. Tel Aviv 29. Havana 30. Copenhagen

31. New York City 32. Rio de Janeiro 33. Mexico City 34. New Orleans 35. Amsterdam 36. Prague 37. Bruges 38. Toronto 39. Buenos Aires 40. Crakow

41. Las Vegas 42. Shanghai 43. Hong Kong 44. Budapest 45. Chicago 46. New Delhi 47. Athens 48. Bangkok 49. Mumbai 50. Marrakesh

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

19

N°115

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - APRIL 2022

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 23 30

HOW TO RECOGNISE QUALITY IN JEWELLERY black spots, which are signs of porosity in the metal.

You should not see any soldering marks where two pieces of metal were joined. It should look as if the pieces were joined by magic.

Two diamond rings. They look identical, with the same style and mounted with diamonds of similar size. Yet their prices could be far apar t. Here are the reasons: •

The diamonds and/or precious gems - The four Cs determine the price. Also, a poorly cut stone will be less attractive and less expensive.

•

The settings - Check the stones in eternity rings.

Their tables should be the same height; the stones evenly spaced and well-matched for clarity and colour. With pavé settings, the stones should be uniform in size and set as densely as possible, with girdles almost touching. The prongs of claw settings should appear to go right through the stone.

The prong tops should be well-rounded and wellpolished. Special settings like the channel, bezel, etc, are more expensive and should be straight and even, and without bumps or ditches.

•

The metal - Determine the quality of the metal.

The item should carry a carat hallmark and a maker’s trademark. The polish should be perfect. Flat pieces should be as smooth as glass and free of polish marks.

The gold should not have any pits, bumps, dents or

•

Special surface finishes - Such as sandblasted, matted or Florentine - should be even, without any deviations or breaks in continuity. Patterns should match up at seams.

•

Workmanship - You should know whether the item was hand-made, cast or machine-made. Hand-made items obviously cost more. Edges must not be sharp and nothing should catch or bite.

•

Design - When the piece is worn, it should come to life. Unusual designs and highly fashionable items should cost more. Hand-crafted and labour-intensive designs are obviously more expensive.

•

Branded items - Jewellery from a company with a solid reputation (that can provide a professional after-sales service, etc) or branded items are normally more expensive than similar items from a less reputable dealer.

VALUATION OF PEARLS AND BEAD NECKLACES When valuating pearls or bead necklaces, the following factors need to be assessed and described in your report:

Are the pearls or beads well-matched in size and quality? If it is a graduated string, is it a smooth graduation?

• Identification of the material

• The clasp

Pearls - are they natural or cultured, of round, semi-round, baroque or of mabé type, fresh or saltwater, Akoya, Tahitian origin, etc?

Describe the type and the metal it is made of and the gems it contains, if any.

Beads - could be tiger’s eye, quartz, lapis lazuli, malachite, etc.

Whether they have been dyed, bleached or enhanced by whatever technique should be indicated.

• Quantity and quality of the material The length of the string and the number of beads/pearls - is it a uniform or a graduated string, interspaced with gold balls, knotted or not?

The size (diameter in millimetre) of the pearls or beads.

Beads - describe the quality of polish and workmanship (are the drill holes exactly through the centre of the bead?) The best way to spot this is by rolling the string on a flat surface in front of you. Off-centre drilled beads or pearls will wobble.

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 30 GEMSTONES

HOW TO READ HALLMARKS For many centuries, hallmarks have acted as a guarantee to purchasers of gold and silver articles. Since the 13th century, silversmiths in England have been regulated by Acts of Parliament which require that they mark the articles they produce with a stamp indicating the quality of the metal, the assay office, the date and the maker of the item. The Great Fire of London in 1666 destroyed name registers, with the result that hallmarks of an earlier date cannot be identified.

Many countries besides the UK have hallmarking systems, but in even more countries, including South Africa, precious metal workers only mark their products with their own system, which normally includes only a maker’s mark and an indication of the precious metal content.

Without an independent certification of the metal content and governmental enforcement, these in-house hallmarks do not offer much consumer protection.

A complete hallmark consists of four “marks”, as illustrated by the following example:

It starts with the maker’s mark, followed by the mark for silver, the London assay office mark and the date letter for 1975.

Below are some of the marks which you may find on gold and silver articles made in England. Further information on hallmarking can be found in Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks , published by JW Northend Ltd, Sheffield, and English Goldsmiths and their Marks by Sir Charles J Jackson, reprinted by Dover Publications Inc.

STANDARD MARK – British Articles Prior to 1975

Standard 22ct gold Marked in England Marked in Scotland 18ct gold Marked in England Marked in Scotland

From 1975

ASSAY OFFICE MARK – British Articles Prior to 1975

gold and sterling silver

Britannia silver

gold

silver

gold

silver

Assay Office

From 1975

London gold silver & platinum

Birmingham gold & platinum

silver

14ct gold 9ct gold Sterling silver Marked in England Marked in Scotland Britannia silver Platinum

Imported articles 22ct gold

Sheffield gold & silver

Edinburgh gold & silver

gold & silver

Note: (i) Some variations in the surrounding shields are found before 1975. (ii) All Assay Offices marked Britannia silver, but only London (prior to 1975) had a special Assay Office marked for this standard.

Imported articles Prior to 1975 gold

silver

Assay Office London

18ct gold 14ct gold

Birmingham

9ct gold

Sheffield

Sterling silver Britannia gold Platinum

Edinburgh

From 1975 gold & silver unchanged

platinum

unchanged

unchanged

unchanged

From The Price Guide to Jewellery, by M Poynder, The Antique Collectors’ Club Ltd.

ISSUE 30

HOW TO VALUE MODERN CUT DIAMONDS USING PRICE LISTS If the diamond is set in jewellery, without an independent grading certificate, you need to estimate its colour and clarity and calculate an approximate weight. Using price lists and your quality assessment will only give an approximate value.

If the diamond has been graded by a reputable laboratory, its value can be established with more certainty by using price lists, as described below.

There are a number of price lists available for a large variety of diamond sizes, shapes and qualities. Of these, the Rapaport Diamond Report is the most widely used internationally. This report is published monthly and can be subscribed to at: info@rapaport.com.

The diamond dealer needs to understand that most published price lists offer only a guideline and that actual transaction prices are usually at a discount to those of the published list.

Depending on the type of diamond, its scarcity in the market and whether the stone is supplied on memo or as an outright purchase, the discount to the published price can vary from 10-40%.

Also important to know is that these price indications are for well-cut stones. Poorly cut stones could trade at -10% to -40% below the price of a similar stone with excellent or very good proportions.

Often the larger, top-quality stones (D-E/FL-VVS) trade at smaller discounts than the more commercial types.

INFLUENCE OF BLUE FLUORESCENCE ON THE VALUE OF DIAMONDS Colour D-E FGH LM

Fluorescence very strong medium very strong medium very strong medium

IF-VVS -15% -5% -10% -3% +4% +2%

VS -8% -2% -5% -2% +4% +2%

Discounts of 5-10% off the Rapaport Report are not uncommon in times when these stones are scarce.

The presence of strong fluorescence often influences a diamond’s value. Strong blue fluorescence in a diamond of high colour often imparts a milky-white appearance to the stone and its price should be discounted. If the diamond’s body colour is yellowish, a strong blue fluorescence will give the stone a whiter, brighter appearance. In such cases, the presence of fluorescence will add to the value of a diamond. However, a strong yellow fluorescence could result in an additional 5-10% discount.

The Rapaport Diamond Report only gives values for diamonds up to 10ct.

Diamonds larger than 10ct are extremely scarce and price lists for them are not readily available. Their price will differ significantly from dealer to dealer and from stone to stone. Important auction houses often sell large, unusual diamonds. Their catalogues and auction results should be consulted for prices of such gems.

Please note: The type of grading report that accompanies the diamond may also influence its price. A diamond certified by GIA, or one accompanied by corresponding certificates from two independent laboratories, may attract a small premium.

Pricing fancy coloured diamonds requires expert knowledge.

Natural fancies demand prices that are close to or in excess of those of D-E colours, while colour-enhanced or synthetic fancy colour diamonds should not cost much more than commercial-quality white diamonds.

Branded diamonds normally carry a significant premium, depending on their demand and availability.

1-1/3 -3% 0 0 0 +2% +2%

Please note: The above discounts and premiums should be used as guidelines only.

Martin Rapaport

ISSUE 30

VALUATION OF “OLD CUT” DIAMONDS Diamonds in antique rings are normally cut according to three different styles: •

Rose cuts - with a flat base, often set with a polished silver foil backing.

•

Old mine cuts - which are not perfectly round and normally cushion-shaped.

•

Old European cuts - which have a round diameter, small table, large culet and large pavilion facets.

Valuing such a diamond (which normally comes already set in an item) is not easy. Different opinions exist on how to value old diamonds and the opinion expressed herewith is personal.

Old European cut

Dutch/Holland rose cut

is. The client should be informed that different valuation methods can be used and that the reason for the valuation will determine which method to use.

Rose cut diamonds are normally small and set pavé in antique rings. They should be valued as is and in the context of their setting. The value of such an item is usually much more than the sum of its par ts. Auction catalogues will give a good indication what such antique diamond jewellery will fetch. Loose rose cuts can range from US$150-1 000 per carat. Large rose cuts are difficult to find, as it was popular in the past to re-cut them.

Other old cut diamonds, either loose or in a ring, are normally valued for one of three reasons: • for resale; • for estate purposes; • for insurance replacement. i)

If a client wishes to sell an old cut diamond, most buyers will calculate the weight and estimate the colour and clarity of the diamond once it has been re-cut to modern propor tions. The buyer will then make an offer, based on a modern price list, less the cutting cost and less a percentage for the risk during re-cutting.

ii)

Valuation for estate purposes should also be done on a potential yield basis, as the item may have to be sold in future.

Old mine cut

The most used (traditional) method is to assess the value of the stone as if it were to be re-cut to ideal propor tions.

Alternatively, a value can be placed on the diamond as

SUGGESTED SELLING PRICE (US$) FOR OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMONDS ,23-,34ct

,35-,55ct

,56-,69ct

,70-,99ct

1,00-1,50ct

VVS-VS

1 200

1 500-2 400

2 400-3 800

3 000-4 500

4 500-8 000

SI

750

1 300

1 800

2 400

3 700

I-1

550

850

1 200

1 600

2 300

VVS-VS

50

1 300-2 000

1 750-3 000

2 300-3 500

3 600-5 500

SI

700

1 200

1 700

2 100

3 500

I-1

500

700

1 000

1 300

2 000

VVS-VS

750

900-1 300

1 400-1 800

1 700-2 500

2 800-3 800

SI

650

850

1 300

1 600

2 500

I-1

500

600

800

1 400

700

D-E

G-I

J-L

Please note: These values are guidelines only. The ultimate visual appearance of the old cut can make a big difference to its “as is” value. Values indicated are per carat. Buy-in prices could be 30% less.

ISSUE 30

iii) If your client needs a valuation for an antique diamond to be used for insurance replacement, the re-cutting calculation, ie, the value based on its potential yield, is not required. Such an item should be valued on its current market value and its visual appearance. Carat weight, colour, clarity, brilliance and the quality of the setting must be taken into account. Auction catalogues are a valuable source of information for such a valuation.

However, it must be explained to the client (and to the insurer) that, in case of loss, it may not be possible to find a similar diamond and that the client must have the option of insuring the item at an “as is value”, or at the replacement value for a modern diamond of the same diameter. The latter value will obviously be much higher than that of the old stone. Your valuation document should state very clearly whether the value indicated is for the item “as is”, or for an equivalent modern item.

HOW TO VALUE BROKEN DIAMONDS AND THOSE IN NEED OF RE-CUTTING Re-cutting formulas are useful to jewellers when they have to estimate the loss after a diamond has broken or when the client needs advice on the re-cutting potential of his diamond.

•

Another and quicker way to find the approximate re-cut weight is to measure the minimum diameter of the old stone and to use Table 8 in Part III, which relates the carat weight of round brilliant cut diamonds to a specific diameter.

Limiting parameters •

A damaged 1ct diamond that can be re-cut to about 0,65ct.

•

Your first step is to accurately measure the dimensions of the old cut stone. Then draw a section using the measured dimensions and plot the inclusions of the stone. Draw an ideal shaped stone to fit best inside the outline of the old cut. (See sketch below.) Measure the dimensions of the proposed ideal cut on the sketch and calculate the weight as follows:

Shallow crown/shallow pavilion

Ideal cut

Re-cut depth could be slightly less than the existing depth.

Re-cut diameter will be less than existing diameter and is calculated as:

Diameter (mm) x diameter (mm) x depth (mm) x 0,0061 = carat weight.

Old cut weighing 1,70ct / I-J / I-1 US$2 000 / cut = US$3 400 Ideal cut diameter 6,7mm Re-cut weight = 1,11 ct / I-J / VS-1 At US$3 600 / ct = US$4 000 Less cutting cost = US$80 Value after re-cutting = US$3 920 An offer to purchase should be about 10% less to accommodate for the risk during cutting Old cut stone with inclusions can be recut to ideal propor tions with better clarity and higher value.

Make sure that the depth of the old stone is at least 60% of its minimum diameter. If not - as with large rose cuts or flat old cuts - the depth of the old stone is the limiting factor. In this case, measure the depth and calculate the ideal diameter (depth divided by 0,622) and calculate the approximate weight of the stone after it has been re-cut. Although the weight loss in re-cutting may be considerable, the re-cut diamond will have a much improved brilliance. (See sketches herewith.)

Existing depth divided by 0,622 Re-cut weight = re-cut diameter x re-cut diameter x re-cut depth x ,0061

High crown/deep pavilion •

If the old stone has a high crown and deep pavilion, its diameter will be the limiting dimension. Measure the minimum diameter of the old cut, calculate its re-cut depth (minimum diameter x 0,60) and then calculate the possible weight of the stone after it has been re cut. In this case, surface blemishes will probably be removed, resulting in a better clarity grade, an improved brilliance and a higher value than the old stone.

ISSUE 30

To estimate how much of a badly broken stone can be recovered, measure it, draw an accurate sketch and position inside it the largest profile of an ideal cut.

Measure on the sketch the proportions of the ideal cut and calculate its weight, ie, dia X dia X depth X 0,0061 = ct weight. Much less will be recovered from a stone with a badly broken than from one whose damage is restricted to its pavilion.

The diameter of a new ideal cut stone will be somewhat less, and the depth much less, than that of the original old cut.

The weight of the new ideal cut is then calculated as: 5,9 X 5,9 X 3,54 X ,0062 = 0,76ct

ideal cut profile

ideal cut profile

The depth of the new ideal cut is calculated as: 5,9 X ,6 = 3,54mm.

Profiles of broken diamonds with ideal cuts positioned for maximum recovery.

VALUATION OF COLOURED GEMSTONES The large number of coloured gemstone varieties, their differences in hardness, durability, the hundreds of hues available, the proliferance of synthetic counterparts and the continuing discovery of new deposits make the valuation of such gems a daunting task. As with diamonds, economic factors such as supply and demand, exchange rates and fashion trends influence the price of coloured gemstones. Beyond that, rarity, durability and beauty are the main factors driving value.

whose colour is due to diffusion treatment is accordingly less valuable than an untreated one. An expensive and unusual gem should thus be certified by a qualified gem laboratory before a value is attached and it is offered to a client.

•

Durability : Hardness and toughness determine how long a gemstone will resist normal “wear and tear”. The value of diamond (H=10) compared with that of opal (H=5,5) illustrates this.

•

Beauty : How “beautiful” a stone is depends on the intensity and purity of its colour, the amount of inclusions visible to the naked eye and, especially, its brilliance.

Rarity : In coloured gems the “rarity factor” depends not only on how much demand outstrips supply, but also on the size, the uniqueness of the colour, the origin of the stone and how much it has been “enhanced” by man.

For instance, true padparadsha (lotus flower colour) sapphires and neon blue tourmaline from Paraíba, Brazil, are much more valuable than similar-looking gems from other areas, or whose colour is not as unique as those of the original discovery. Certificates of Origin, as issued by some gem laboratories, add further value.

The brilliance of a gem is influenced by the amount and size of imperfections it contains and its proportions. The ideal proportions for each gem specie is different because each one has a different refractive index.

Certain gemstones are extremely rare in larger sizes. For example, the value of rubies and tsavorite larger than 5ct increases logarithmically. Colour and clarity enhancements influence value dramatically. For instance, the price of an unheated, vivid blue sapphire (if you can find one) will be much more than a similar-looking sapphire whose intense colour is due to heating. A glass or resin-filled ruby or one

Brilliance is defined as the amount of light flashes which can be seen in the face-up position. Rest the gem between your fingers or hold it firmly in tweezers. Tilt it slowly forwards and backwards under a light source and observe the flashes of paler colour that can be seen. Estimate how much of the total face-up surface of the gem is covered by these paler reflections - it may vary from a few to more than 90%.

•

Brilliance

Size RARITY

Polish and symmetry BEAUTY

Acceptable

Eye-visible and unstable enhancements INCREASE IN ENHANCEMENTS

VALUE

Tone Saturation

Supply

Untreated VALUE

Specific origin Worldwide occurrences

VALUE

VALUE

FACTORS INFLUENCING THE VALUE OF GEMSTONES

Demand

INCREASE IN SUPPLY/DEMAND

ISSUE 30

The graphs on the previous page show how various factors influence the value of gemstones.

PRICING

quality gems they stock. Do not be surprised if the asking price for an unusual gem is “way off ” any price list. You need years of experience to be able to appreciate the value of a gem that truly is “one of a kind”.

Price lists are available on the Internet, while most wholesalers issue price lists for the more commercial-

If the gemstone is mounted in an item, then its dimensions and specific gravity can be used to calculate an estimated weight.

DESCRIBING JEWELLERY The importance of using the correct terminology in describing jewellery (especially on valuation reports) needs no clarification.

NOMENCLATURE FOR SETTINGS, RING STYLES, CLASPS, SHANKS, JOINTS AND PINS

Knife-edge shank

Side-set fantasy style

Stepped ring

Claw clasp

Carbenieri clasp Bypass shank Cathedral/Signet ring

Half eternity ring

Twin set, micro pavéd

Four-claw collet

Sister hook clasp

Bolt ring Full eternity ring

Screw-in barrel clasp

Clip-over pearl clasp

Ballerina-styled ring

Bowtie-styled ring

Slip-in clasp

Fish hook clasp

Ribbon-styled ring Gypsy ring

Easy hook clasp

Box clasp with figure 8 safety hook Puffed gypsy

Cluster ring

Belcher setting

Six-claw collet

Bezel setting

Four-claw Tiffany collet

Pierced bezel

Split shank ring

Tension-set ring

Clip-over fancy O-ring clasp

Ball clasp with hidden lip

O-ring

Bead setting

Four-claw U setting

Pearl setting

O-ring/ Doughnut setting

Tie pin clasp

Box setting

Illusion setting

Cufflink backs

Oval flip-over clasp

Magnetic barrel clasp

Earstud butterflies

Spring lock butterfly

Earring spring-backs

Earring clips

Screw-in back for pearl stud

Ear wires

THE BIG

TRADE 20 22

ISSUE

INVEST YOUR BRAND NOW We go ‘BIG’ on Selling more jewellery during peak seasons Boosting employee productivity Consumer behaviour Must-have marketing tips for jewellers It’s here! The Jewellex365 Online Trading Platform

For advertising contact Ruwayda Mahomed on 072 383 3203 / 011 883 4627 or ruwayda@isikhova.co.za For brand marketing contact Jenny Justus on 083 450 6052 / 011 883 4627 or jenny@isikhova.co.za

BE SMART. BE SEEN BE YOUR BRAND

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Corporate stationery, brochures, branded packaging, corporate gifting

Contact Lamees Mahomed | lamees@isikhova.co.za Mobile 084 590 5123 | Landline 011 883 4627 | www.isikhova.co.za

DID YOU KNOW? | SAJN

Interesting facts 1

Diamond miners were memorialised in the Diggers Fountain, which you can find in Kimberley. Installed at the Ernest Oppenheimer Memorial Gardens in 1959, Herman Wald’s bronze sculpture portrays five men holding up a diamond sieve.

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3

Chemically, noble metals resist oxidation and corrosion in moist air. They also possess varying degrees of resistance to acids. This group includes the following elements: ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium, gold, silver and platinum.

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Image courtesy Heritage Auctions

4

Gold solder is sold based on colour, not gold content.

The frame of the crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, manufactured for her coronation as the consort of King George VI, was made of platinum. It was the first British crown to be made of this particular metal.

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Though popes have traditionally worn ornate pectoral crosses made of gold and covered in jewels, Pope Francis chose to wear a silver version that he reportedly received as a gift after becoming the Archbishop of Buenos Aires in his native country of Argentina.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

A double eagle is a gold coin of the United States with a denomination of $20. Although 445 500 specimens of this Saint-Gaudens double eagle were minted in 1933, none were ever officially circulated and all but two were ordered to be melted down.

8

The Lord of the Rings ring prop was crafted by New Zealand’s Jens Hansen Gold & Silversmith. The two made more than 40 ring variations for the film and were scaled for different scenes and sized to fit their various owners.

The Peace Diamond was sold to House of Graff 4 December 2017 for $6 536 360.

Pastor Emanuel Momoh, the manager and financial supporter of the digger team, is the legal owner of the diamond and a leader in the village and community where it was found.

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A cabochon (or cutting en cabochon – French: “in the manner of a cabochon”) is a type of cut used on gemstones whereby the stone is shaped and polished into a smooth, generally convex shape with a flat base.

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SAJN | DIAMONDS, GEMS AND JEWELLERY

Earthly treasures and human ingenuity A Cape Town museum is dedicated to the history of diamonds and other precious gems. Locals and tourists alike can experience a journey through time where they will learn about the fascinating history of diamonds, gems and much more at the Museum of Gems and Jewellery.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

DIAMONDS, GEMS AND JEWELLERY | SAJN LOCATED IN THE HISTORICAL AND AUTHENtically restored 18th-century Huguenot House in Loop Street, the Museum of Gems and Jewellery is the brainchild of Dr Petré Prins of Prins & Prins Diamonds.

Dedicated to mankind’s interaction with earthly treasures, this unique museum offers fascinating exhibits.

Established in 1982, Prins & Prins Diamonds has grown to become one of Cape Town’s most trusted family-owned manufacturing jewellers.

In 1993, Prins bought the historic Huguenot House and completed its restoration. The museum is located in what was once a wine cellar and is now also the workspace of Prins’s jewellers, whom visitors will encounter en route to the exhibition.

The hour-long tour takes visitors past 23 educational displays, starting with jewellery’s origins and culminating in a display of the current workings of today’s multi-billion-rand industry.

itors will learn all there is to know about diamonds, from where they are found to how they are cut and polished, as well as the story behind the biggest diamond ever found. They will learn about jewellery, from ancient and indigenous to modern and priceless. They will

The museum tells the story of South Africa’s diamonds and precious metals and how the creativity of mankind has transformed earthly treasures into precious heirlooms. Vis-

see the various ways in which it is designed and manufactured all over the world today and marvel at goldsmiths at work.

Mapungubwe was an advanced African

society that existed 100 years ago, famous for its work with (and trade in) gold, glass and ivory. Stone tools, the earliest crafts of mankind, shamanic rock paintings and replicas of the gold artefacts of the Mapungubwe Kingdom are also on display.

Visitors can discover their birthstones, gems from outer space, see how jewellery styles have changed over the ages and learn about the role jewellery plays in our everyday lives. They can also see the famous Krugerrand and Diamond dresses Anneline Kriel wore when she was crowned Miss World in 1976.

“Man has always valued something that’s hard and indestructible,” says Prins. “Humans value anything that’s pure, rare and beautiful.

If it has universal appeal, especially if it can be transported easily, then mankind wants it. A diamond is precisely such a gem.”

About Huguenot House In 1752, Governor Ryk Tulbagh granted Erf Number 6 on the corner of what would become Loop and Hout Streets. Here an Early Cape townhouse of great elegance and grandeur was built. During the late 18th century, Dutch artists decorated the house with neo-classical wall paintings which were discovered during restoration in 1993. In the reception area, then owners Mr and Mrs von Wielligh and their children were depicted as Roman gods in a style reminiscent of artworks discovered in Pompeii in 1780.

In the early 1800s, a group of wine merchants bought the house. They used it as a base to sell and export wine from the Franschhoek Valley, hence the name Huguenot House. Today, the original wine cellar houses the Aurum Art Atelier, as well as the Museum of Gems and Jewellery.

One of three home water wells to be seen in Cape Town was discovered during the restoration of the original kitchen. In winter, groundwater siphons up and visitors still drop a coin into a well for blessings on an engagement, a marriage, a return to Cape Town or whatever secret wish their heart desires.

Visitors can discover their birthstones, gems from outer space, see how jewellery styles have changed over the ages and learn about the role jewellery plays in our everyday lives.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SAJN | TECHNOLOGY

TracrTM is an advanced technology platform developed by the De Beers Group to underpin trust in diamond provenance. Through the use of leading-edge technologies – including blockchain, artificial intelligence, the Internet of Things and advanced security and privacy technologies – TracrTM enables confidence in a diamond’s source throughout the diamond value chain.

DE BEERS GROUP IS DEPLOYING THE TRACRTM blockchain platform at scale for its diamond production, the diamond mining giant announced.

TracrTM has the capability to provide provenance assurance for 100% of De Beers’ diamonds from source to sightholder to store.

It is the world’s only distributed diamond blockchain that starts at the source and provides tamper-proof source assurance at scale, enabling Sightholders to provide an immutable record of a diamond’s provenance and empowering jewellery retailers to have confidence in the origin of the diamonds they purchase.

With more end clients wanting to know the source of the products they buy, the deep meaning associated with a diamond purchase requires a technological step-change to meet their expectations. The introduction of TracrTM at scale delivers immutable information on the source of De Beers’ diamonds across the value chain and makes source assurance for 100% of De Beers’ production possible.

The TracrTM platform combines distributed ledger technology with advanced data security and privacy, ensuring that participants control the use of and access to their own data.

Each participant on TracrTM has their own distributed version of the platform, meaning that their data can only be shared with their permission, and only they choose who can access their information. The advanced privacy technologies used by TracrTM reinforce data security on the platform. The immutable nature of each transaction on the platform ensures that the data cannot be tampered with when the diamond progresses through the value chain.

The decentralised nature of the platform ensures its speed and scalability, with the ability to register one million diamonds a week onto the platform.

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De Beers introduces world’s first blockchainbacked diamond source platform SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

TECHNOLOGY | SAJN With centralised platforms, dealing with large volumes of data can cause bottlenecks, but the decentralised model used by TracrTM avoids such issues and enables rapid scaling.

The scalability, speed and security of TracrTM are combined into an intuitive user experience to support ease of use for platform participants.

First launched in an R&D phase in 2018 and named by Forbes as one of the world’s 50 leading blockchain solutions in both 2020 and in 2022, De Beers has already registered onequarter of its production by value on TracrTM in the first three sights of the year in preparation for this first scale release.

“De Beers discovers diamonds with our partners in Botswana, Canada, Namibia and South Africa and, with our long-term investment in TracrTM, we’re proud to join with our sightholders in providing the industry with immutable diamond source assurance at scale,” says Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group. “TracrTM, which will enable the provision of provenance information from source to sightholder to store on a secure blockchain, will underpin confidence in natural diamonds and represents the first step in a technological transformation that will enhance standards and raise expectations of what we’re capable of providing to our end clients.”

“The introduction of this advanced provenance technology is extremely exciting and we’re very pleased – as a large diamondproducing country and shareholder in De Beers – to be a part of this development,” says Lefoko Moagi, Minister of Minerals and Energy in Botswana. “Confidence in diamond origin is extremely important and we look forward to seeing the roll-out of this new programme delivering new benefits to the diamond industry and giving more assurance to consumers.”

The TracrTM platform brings together a range of leading technologies – including blockchain, artificial intelligence, the Internet of Things and advanced security and privacy technologies – to support the identification of a diamond’s journey through the value chain. De Beers’ provenance claims have been certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council and trust in the De Beers source of diamonds is also assured by the business’s Pipeline Integrity programme, which involves annual third-party verification visits of participants by independent auditors.

First launched in an R&D phase in 2018 and named by Forbes as one of the world’s 50 leading blockchain solutions in both 2020 and in 2022, De Beers has already registered one-quarter of its production by value on TracrTM in the first three sights of the year in preparation for this first scale release.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SAJN | WATCH INDUSTRY TRADE FAIRS

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

WATCH INDUSTRY TRADE FAIRS | SAJN

Germany beckons Swiss watch brands Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 signalled the end of a three-year disruption to the watch industry cycle of trade fairs caused by the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic, writes reviewer for the Horological Journal, Martin Foster.

INDEED, IT HAS BEEN A LONG WAIT AND WATCHES and Wonders is especially welcome to those of the watch industry media involved in reviewing the fine, classy products of this luxury market together with its agents, buyers and collectors.

With the watch and clock industry suffering capricious buying patterns, the fairs bravely front the market with their new developments, getting muchneeded attention, despite the coronavirus invasion.

At Watches and Wonders (W&Ws) Geneva 2022, there were 36 brands participating in this week-long event: Lange & Söhne, Angelus, Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Cyrus Genève, Czapek & Cie, Ferdinand Berthoud, Grand Seiko, Hermès, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Moinet, Montblanc, H Moser & Cie, Oris, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Rebellion Timepieces, Ressence, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, Speake-Marin, TAG Heuer, Trilobe, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith.

Nevertheless, we are enjoying only a faint shadow of the trade fairs and exhibitions of a few years ago when, together with W&Ws (formerly SIHH), we had Baselworld and the Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair (the latter being the biggest watch industry trade fair).

(Left, from top): Patek’s very classy four-storey exhibition pavilion, which has been featured in Baselworld these past few years, was brought down to Geneva Palexpo and reassembled for the W&Ws event and Carré-des-Horlogers was an exhibition space for smaller, highly exclusive makers who were not beholden to the bigger conglomerates. Here one had the rare honour of interviewing the watchmaker who was making one’s watch.

(Far left): Representatives of the 38 exhibiting maisons on the first day of W&Ws. State Councillor Fabienne Fischer cut the ribbon.

Inhorgenta exhibits watches and clocks, tools, jewellery and jewellers, equipment and all the associated branches of these industries. It provides the ideal solution for the return of exhibitors who have been left stranded by the final closure of Baselworld.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SAJN | WATCH INDUSTRY TRADE FAIRS W&Ws has only about 10% of the number of exhibitors which Baselworld had in its heyday – and here we can again observe a serious imbalance of the exhibiting makers. Both large and small exhibited in Basel, whereas W&Ws is predominantly high-end prestige brands.

With W&Ws, we are seeing the return of confidence of the luxury watch industry in Europe, as we learn how to handle the twists and turns of the pandemic. Nevertheless, news of the latest products remains tangled in politically inept decisions taken by those in power.

Fairs and exhibitions are still working out how to protect themselves, because without this spectrum of personal footfall participation, there is no earthly purpose in holding a trade event.

Thus at the end of January, with only eight weeks to go, W&Ws in Geneva formally confirmed that it would proceed with the promo events in Geneva from 30 March-5 April 2022.

Its announcement was propitious, as the revamped Baselworld had already been abandoned in late November.

In its time, Baselworld was a complete experience and an enjoyable event in all respects. It catered for exhibitors large and small, providing the exposure which is the raison d’être of trade fairs. Its facilities and services were excellent and attendees came to reconnect with colleagues, feel and handle the new brand releases, and formally review them for the rest of the world to read.

There is much speculation about how Baselworld came to such an ignominious end and this is further obscured by the nonsense of how it would have restarted with digital meetings, on-screen touch-and-feel product launches, digital lunches, 24-hour meetings, digital dancing girls and similar claptrap.

But Basel city, with a finely honed culture, regarded the 120 000 visitors to the fair as defenceless cash-cows. Moreover, the fair’s

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(Above): Rolex/Tudor’s exhibition stand was also brought down to Geneva Palexpo and reassembled for the W&Ws event. The Rolex/Tudor building is the size of a small city block. A colleague commented: “Turning the corner to Rolex and the Patek area was like stepping through time and space into Basel Hal 1.1.”

management mishandled the interests and costs of the exhibitors.

Thus defence of the status quo was weak when the disgruntled big end of town – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chanel and Chopard – upped stumps and abruptly withdrew their historic support for the fair.

If any version of Baselworld re-emerges at some future date, it will be a very different experience – even if for all the wrong reasons.

However, it is unlikely that it can survive the wreckage of its former glory.

A number of smaller, exclusive events have emerged to fill the needs of a hands-on assessment of new timepieces and provide limited public relations to help the brands endure the uncertainty.

Unfortunately, though, there is creeping evidence that “Basel disease” may be developing in Geneva, with some hotels doubling their prices during the W&Ws dates. It is surely time to get the Swiss watch brands out of Switzerland and away from the reprehensible practice

of fleecing visitors.

Perhaps the focus should shift to Germany’s superb Inhorgenta Munich show, which was rescheduled from February to 8-11 April to give it the best chance of proceeding in a far more benign period of COVID-19 restrictions.

Inhorgenta Munich was ideally placed to step in where others have overlooked the interests of the smaller watch and clock exhibitors. It offers six modern, spacious halls, assisted by a highly experienced, stable management.

Inhorgenta’s April dates made it possible for agents, buyers and the media to travel to Geneva for W&Ws from 30 March-6 April and then move on to the German event two days later. For once, some useful, logistical thought went into the planning!

Like Baselworld, Inhorgenta exhibits watches and clocks, tools, jewellery and jewellers, equipment and all the associated branches of these industries. It provides the ideal solution for the return of exhibitors who have been left stranded by the final closure of Baselworld.

Prophetically, 20 years ago, the then editor of the prestigious Horological Journal, Timothy Treffry, commented in the February 2002 issue: “The facilities Inhorgenta has to offer are outstanding. With up to 165 000 m² of contiguous exhibition space and 50 000 hotel rooms within 30 minutes by city underground, Basel’s accommodation problems, in both senses, would be solved if it moved there…

Munich is a pleasant, inexpensive city. It is the home of the Deutsches Museum (perhaps the finest technical/science museum in the world, with an excellent horological exhibit) and the splendid Mindelheim turret clock museum is just 96 km away.”

And, significantly, it is not in Switzerland!

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

BIRTHSTONES | SAJN

Moonstone as a June birthstone Moonstones – one of the three birthstones for June – are believed to be named for the bluish-white spots within them which, when held up to light, project a silvery play of colour very much like moonlight.

JUNE IS ONE OF ONLY THREE MONTHS (THE others are August and December) that have three birthstones.

Moonstone’s delicate beauty and its long-established heritage make it perhaps the most familiar gem-quality member of the feldspar group.

Feldspars are the most widespread minerals in the earth’s crust, as well as some of the most diverse. One can pick up a rock anywhere in the world and one will probably find that it contains a mineral or two from the feldspar group.

Moonstone is a variety of the feldspar group mineral orthoclase. It is composed of two feldspar minerals, orthoclase and albite. At first, the two minerals are intermingled. Then, as the newly-formed mineral cools, the intergrown orthoclase and albite separate into stacked, alternating layers.

When light falls between these thin, flat layers, it scatters in many directions, producing the phenomenon called adularescence. This is the light that appears to billow across a gemstone, giving its surface a glowing appearance.

Perhaps the most captivating aspect of adularescence is its appearance of motion.

The misty light seems to roll across the gem’s

surface as one changes the viewing angle.

Other feldspar minerals can also show adularescence. One is a labradorite feldspar found mainly in Labrador, Canada. Another labradorite – found in Madagascar – has a multi-coloured adularescence over a light body colour. It is known in the trade as rainbow moonstone, although it is actually a variety of labradorite, rather than orthoclase.

Sanidine is another feldspar mineral that can include adularescent gems called moonstones.

To be called moonstone, a mineral’s actual identity is not as important as the beauty of its adularescence.

This June birthstone has been associated with both the Roman and Greek lunar deities. Hindu mythology claims that it is made of solidified moonbeams. Moonstone is often associated with love, passion and fertility; it is believed to bring great luck.

Great designers of the Art Nouveau era (1890s-1910s), such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, featured moonstone in their fine jewellery. It came to the forefront again during the 1960s “flower child” movement and with New Age designers of the 1990s.

Moonstone can be found in a wide variety of places, including parts of the USA such as New Mexico, North Carolina and Virginia. The most important world locations for moonstone are India and Sri Lanka, but other sources include Brazil, India, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Myanmar and Tanzania.

Moonstone ranks 6-6,5 on the Mohs scale of hardness and has poor toughness. It may crack when exposed to high heat. Therefore, ultrasonic and steam cleaners should not be used on it.

Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services.

When light falls between these thin, flat layers, it scatters in many directions, producing the phenomenon called adularescence. This is the light that appears to billow across a gemstone, giving its surface a glowing appearance. To be called moonstone, a mineral’s actual identity is not as important as the beauty of its adularescence.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

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SAJN | COLOURED GEMSTONES

Fancy colour diamond prices up

New York, May 9, 2022: The Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) today announced the results of the Q1 2022 Fancy Color Diamond Index (FCDI). Prices of Fancy Color continued positive trend and rose by 1.0% acrossColor the board. The Prices of fancy colour diamonds grewDiamonds 1% in the first2021’s quarter according to the Fancy general increase was led by Pinks at 1.3%, with Yellows following at 0.7% and Blues showing nearly no change.gained 1,3%, with yellows up 0,7%, the Research Foundation (FCRF). Pink fancy colour prices Fancy category and Fancy Intense in all colors, an increase of 1.3% and organisation reported in its quarterly The release last month of the Fancy Colorshowed Diamond Index.

1.2% respectively, outperforming the Fancy Vivid segment at an increase of 0.6%.

THE FCRF HAS ANNOUNCED THE RESULTS OF THE Q1 2022 Fancy Color Diamond Index (FCDI). Prices of fancy colour diamonds continued 2021’s positive trend and rose by 1,0% across the board. The general increase was led by pinks at 1,3%, with yellows following at 0,7% and blues showing nearly no change.

The Fancy category and Fancy Intense in all colours, showed an increase of 1,3% and 1,2% respectively, outperforming the Fancy Vivid segment at an increase of 0,6%.

Pink diamonds’ general price increase of 1,3% was mainly driven by the Fancy category, which increased by 1,7% in the 1ct and 2ct. weight categories, with 2ct.

Fancy Intense rising 3,5%, 2ct. Fancy Vivid increasing 3,2% and 1ct. Fancy Intense climbing 2,9%. Larger weight categories also exhibited significant price increases, with Fancy Vivid 10ct and Fancy Intense 3ct leading this colour category, both rising 2,2%.

The only two pink categories whose prices decreased this quarter were the Fancy Vivid 3ct and the Fancy 8ct, each with a 0,3% decrease.

Fancy Blues showed overall stability in Q1 (rising 0,1%) in all weight categories. Fancy Intense diamonds rose 0,5%, outperforming Fancy Vivid and Fancy grade saturations.

The only two categories that fluctuated more than 1% were: Fancy Intense 2ct, which climbed by 1,3%, and Fancy 3ct, which fell by 1,3%.

The Yellow category rose by 0,7% in Q1, mostly due to appreciation in the Fancy Intense grade (1,1%).

Across the board, diamonds above 5ct rose more than diamonds below this weight (1%+ compared with less than 1%, respectively). Fancy Intense 8ct stood out with an increase of 2,5%. The weakest performance in Q1 was noted in Fancy Vivid 1,5ct, which declined in price by 0,5%.

“The results of the index reflect pre-boycott prices on Russian diamonds. Since this boycott, the supply of yellow diamonds has dropped dramatically,” explained FCRF Advisory Board member Eden Rachminov. “The price increases also took place while China has been under a harsh lockdown. Once its COVID-19 policy dissolves and Chinese diamond-lovers return to the market, we’ll witness a burst in demand for luxury goods and fancy colour diamonds in particular, followed by an additional significant price increase.”

The Fancy Color Diamond Index is published by the non-profit Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), tracking pricing data for yellow, pink and blue Fancy Colour Diamonds in the major global trading centres – Hong Kong, New York, Geneva and Tel Aviv.

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Pink: Pink diamonds' general price increase of 1.3% was mainly driven by the Fancy category, which increased by 1.7% in the 1 and 2 ct. weight categories, with 2 ct. Fancy Intense rising 3.5%, 2 ct. Fancy Vivid increasing 3.2% and 1 ct. Fancy Intense climbing 2.9%. Larger weight categories also exhibited significant price increases, with Fancy Vivid 10 carat and Fancy Intense 3 carat leading this color category, both rising 2.2%.

The only two pink categories whose prices decreased this quarter were the Fancy Vivid 3 carat and the Fancy 8 carat, each with a 0.3% decrease.

Blue: Fancy Blues showed overall stability in Q1 (rising 0.1%) in all weight categories.

Fancy Intense diamonds rose 0.5%, outperforming Fancy Vivid and Fancy grade saturations. The only two categories that fluctuated more than one percent were: Fancy Intense 2 carats, which climbed by 1.3%, and Fancy 3 carats, which fell by 1.3%.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

BOOKINGS OPEN FOR SPRING/SUMMER EDITION

For more information or to book your space, contact: Ruwayda Mahomed / 011 883 4627 / ruwayda@isikhova.co.za

SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

India’s love of adornment 42

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - JUNE 2022

The evolution of general jewellery-making – its secrets passed down from father to son – is visible in the fabulous Indian jewels created during the Muslim Mogul dynasty (between the 16th and 18th centuries), as well as in later Indian princedoms. eralds and pearls, the handle is set with a large rectangular emerald.

Three intertwined strings of pearls alternating with white diamonds characterise a large pendant in the form of a white and yellow flower: a comparatively simple, but no less stunning design. Pearls and rubies, according to Indian tradition, were worn by sovereigns and their closest courtiers.

The maharajas of India had plentiful money, stones, taste and Western aspirations. Their princes were enchanted

by Paris – and by Cartier. Nothing was too beautiful or costly for these dignitaries, no item too spectacular, and they were frequent and flamboyant spenders.

The prince of one large state ordered a ceremonial necklace and other accessories, such as buttons, from the renowned French jeweller. These were displayed in the windows of the Rue de la Paix in 1928.

Bhupinder Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, was a man of both extravagance and ego, who enjoyed flaunting his magnificent jewellery.

A photograph of him shows him in a heavily bejewelled turban and a lavish necklace made especially for him by Cartier in 1928; it contained Burmese rubies and 2 930 diamonds, including the world’s seventh-largest brilliant, the 234ct “De Beers”. The necklace weighed 962,25ct in total and the stones were set in platinum.

Sadly, Singh died at the age of 46 in 1938 and the necklace then vanished. Only part of it was ever recovered in a London secondhand jewellery shop 50 years later. Cartier acquired these remnants, but many of the

large diamonds, including the De Beers, were missing. Nevertheless, Cartier reconstructed the necklace using synthetic stones.

Another spectacular creation by Cartier in 1927, a gravity pendulum clock in lapis lazuli and malachite dotted with coral stars, is a glorious creation of bold colours, vivid imagination and eclectic taste. It is clearly influenced by the Indian aesthetic.

It would take a lifetime to itemise the many other magnificent examples of jewellery which have adorned the wrists, fingers, heads and necks of Indian nobles: indeed, their country – “the Jewel in the Crown” of the former British Empire – has always been synonymous with rare and exotic embellishments. Anyone visiting it can gain unique insights into that history by viewing its gems.

Image courtesy of the the Lost Gallery, Wikimedia Commons

INDIAN MOGULS’ ASSOCIATION WITH JEWELS is deeply entrenched in their culture and collective imagination, as is borne out by many legends. Prominent in Indian mythology are esoteric interpretations of gold and gems. In addition, jewellery has always denoted the rank and caste of its wearer. A single woman, for example, would not wear the gems with which a married woman adorns herself.

The evolution of general jewellerymaking – its secrets passed down from father to son – is visible in the fabulous Indian jewels created during the Muslim Mogul dynasty (between the 16th and 18th centuries), as well as in later Indian princedoms. Jewels for turbans and pendant ornaments for the head, bands to be attached to the hairline, earrings, nose rings for which nostrils and cartilage were pierced, necklaces, bracelets, brooches, belts, finger rings and amulets were among the prized pieces. To these were added jewelled weapons and richly decorated objects for daily use.

In the creation of these jewels, the many processes used included design, cutting, chasing and enamelling. One type of workmanship involved setting and mounting stones in a bed of lacquer enamelled with a sheet of gold. The stones were secured by threads of gold. The great variety of styles was influenced by many factors, including goldsmithing traditions. In provinces like Rajasthan, for example, jewellery was lighter and more refined than in the southern areas of the country, where heavier, sturdier, more elaborate items were clearly influenced

by Persian and European designs.

A 17th-century jewel from northern India worn on the forearm was enriched with rubies and enamel; pendants were commonly embellished with precious stones set in gold.

Mogul turban ornaments were frequently showpieces of elegance, affluence and power.

The display of a few items (including the legendary 106ct Koh-i-Noor diamond) at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London sparked general interest in the West in Indian jewels.

One magnificent necklace dating from the 19th century is composed of a series of lobed plaques, each decorated with a facing pair of birds realised in diamond brilliants and rubies on a ground of green enamel.

A stiletto designed with a curving point is a typical symbol of the Mogul community. Made of gold and studded with diamonds, rubies, em-

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

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KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/ MAGGIE AFRICA Tel: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/ MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/ MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PREVIDA & CO Tel: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/ SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/ ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/ RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/ STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/ STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

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Certification requires and inspires sustainable growth. Standards cover human rights, product integrity, responsible supply chains, responsible sourcing and more. Issues are never viewed in isolation but as integral to an intentional system.

RJC members commit to sustainability, so that we may offer jewellers products and processes that meet the highest ethical and environmental standards.

As the only independently verified sustainability standard for the industry, the RJC Code of Practices is the highest level of global accreditation that a company such as MetCon may achieve in the jewellery industry.

A member since 2013, recently renewed, MetCon holds dual certification in the form of Chain of Custody and Code of Practice.

The RJC Code of Practices 2019 is aligned with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance and the UN Guiding Principles of Business and Human Rights.

Through implementation, RJC members contribute towards the United Nations 2030 agenda and the 17 Sustainable Development Goals.

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