MARCH 2014
south african jewellery news
The industry's only trade journal
A passion for chronographs Measuring physical and optical properties of gemstones The old order changeth...
Sales By Lipman & Son Address: 65 Wale Street, Cape Town, 8001 Phone no.: 021 424 3371 Fax no.: 021 424 6829 Email: ian@lipmanson.co.za
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c ntents 15. DID YOU KNOW?
Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153
Interesting facts
E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India):
16. GEMMOLOGY
Bhupal Potdar
Measuring physical and optical properties of gemstones
Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
18. Brand Management
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• Countdown to Baselworld 2014
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SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Colors
6. News
• Time for the environment
• GIA collaborates with Bahrain to develop world-class pearl testing facility
• Trollbeads’ exotic nights and mythical gardens • Creating long-term values
• Cape Town Diamond Museum explores history of diamonds
• A tribute to devotees of technology and style
• Hong Kong International Jewellery Show expands exhibit space
• Zeitwinkel: Mechanical ingenuity at its finest
• IDE organises International Rough Diamond Week
• Watch designs for the connoisseur
• OGI unveils FireTrace Pro performance software • Seminars at VicenzaOro Winter explore technological developments and training
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
24. LITTLE GEMS The old order changeth...
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
13. Brand History Breitling: A passion for chronographs
SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
MARCH 2014
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
The industry's only trade journal
On the cover
Brink’s is a global leader in security-related services for the diamond and jewellery industries as well as
a variety of other commercial and governmental customers. From armoured transportation to cash management, our services also include money processing, long-distance transport of valuables, vaulting and other value-added solutions. We deliver innovative services
A passion for chronographs Measuring physical and optical properties of gemstones The old order changeth...
and solutions that contribute to critical business intelligence, improved productivity and enhanced security. For more information, contact Brink’s on tel: +27 11 392-2006 or e-mail: info.sa@brinksglobal.com
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Seminars at VicenzaOro Winter During this year’s VicenzaOro Winter, which took place at the end of January, the Veneto Productivity Centre Foundation once again showed its involvement in the fields of technological upgrades and training. In the framework of T-Gold, the exhibition dedicated to machinery and jewellery technologies at the fair, five workshops were presented exploring topics such as intellectual property, organisation of production and technological innovation applied to jewellery design and promotion. The first workshop took place on 20 January, dedicated to Rhinoceros, the powerful 3D design and modelling software which is revolutionising the entire process of industrial designing. All aspects – from the development of the creative idea to the engineering of the product – were digitalised and managed. Vittorio Carlotto, professor of image processing for industrial design at Padua University, was the speaker. Later the focus shifted to Rhinogold, the plug-in created to transfer potentialities and advantages of Rhinoceros into jewellery design. In a workshop led by Pietro Nardi, participants were shown the entire process of the creation of the jewellery or other components, starting from a digital file through the use of 3D printing. On 21 January, a workshop entitled “How to Create a Trademark or an Industrial Design Safely” was organised by the Vicenza Patlib Centre, aimed specifically at companies that operate directly in jewellery commercialisation. Giorgio Meneghini, Patlib representative at CPV, showed how databases can help companies which need to monitor competitors’
patenting activities or to deposit trademarks and industrial designs without becoming involved in disputes with competitors. Following this, Riccardo Palmerini, member of the ICT Study Group and expert in interactive communication, shifted the focus again to the communicative dimension of the jewellery. His workshop, aimed at designers and marketing managers of jewellery companies, not only evaluated strategies and techniques for promotion, but gave participants firsthand experience of a new tool for jewellery presentations that is affordable and impactful. The seminars ended on 22 January with a workshop entitled “Ideas and Innovation as the Basis for Winning Strategies”, aimed at raising awareness among companies of opportunities and methods for continuous improvement according to the Kaizen philosophy. Fabrizio Paolin, Area Manager of Study Groups and Kaizen activities at CPV, reviewed origins, principles and case histories relating to this management strategy of Japanese origin. Made famous worldwide by Toyota, it seeks to effect small, but ongoing daily improvements in the company.
IDE organises International Rough Diamond Week
high and visibly on our industry’s agenda.” Juwal says he’s encouraged by the response from rough diamond producers, traders and manufacturers in participating in the IRDW. “The rough diamond supply channels are going through significant changes. Spearheaded by the IDE’s efforts, Israel’s diamond industry strategy is to build long-term, value-adding alliances with these players.” IDE President Shmuel Schnitzer says the IDE intends holding an International Rough Diamond Week several times throughout the year. “This is a long-term initiative that will strengthen and boost Israel’s position as the world’s most versatile and dynamic diamond trading hub. Rough diamond trading is an essential component of our industry’s vitality. We have the resources, infrastructure and a highly motivated, closely knit diamond business community. I’m therefore confident of this venture’s success.”
The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) is holding its first International Rough Diamond Week (IRDW) from 9-13 March. A diverse series of rough diamond tenders will be held during the event. Among the companies staging these tenders are Alrosa, De Beers Auction Sales, Rio Tinto Diamonds, I Hennig/Fusion Alternatives and Tzoffey’s. IDE Deputy President Arnon Juwal, who heads the IRDW Organising Committee, says: “If we’re to boost the manufacturing of polished goods in Israel, we need to increase the flow of rough to our industry. By creating recurring anchor events for rough diamond tenders, as well as auctions, we’re placing these efforts
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
NEWS
GIA announces Tawfic Farah Memorial Scholarship and awards The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced the Tawfic Farah Memorial Scholarship, which will be offered as of 15 June 2014. The annual scholarship will award full tuition for an on-campus student to pursue their Graduate Gemmologist (GG) diploma, including the required Diamond Grading, Coloured Stone Grading and Gem Identification lab classes. The first scholarship will be for a student at GIA’s campus in Mumbai, India, and will rotate throughout GIA’s global campuses in subsequent years. The application period each year will run until 31 October and forms are available on the GIA website: www.gia.edu/scholarships. Tawfic Farah, GIA’s Vice-President of International Operations who passed away in May last year, made a lasting and important contribution to the institute’s mission by building strong relationships in Africa and the Middle East, working tirelessly to enhance education and beneficiation efforts in Africa, and supporting the global expansion of GIA’s services. He did this with unflagging commitment, humour and compassion. “Tawfic helped countless people by working to bring GIA’s education programmes to
communities involved in the gem and jewellery industry throughout the world. He helped build GIA’s relationships with governments and created opportunities and choices where few had previously existed,” says Susan Jacques, GIA’s President and CEO. “In keeping with his vision, we honour him in a way that reflects his personal passion and continues the great contributions he made to the communities which are part of our industry.” In January 2014 the institute awarded its Fall 2013 scholarships to 151 students in 29 countries. The scholarships, totalling more than US$500 000, align with GIA’s goals of providing quality education in gemmology and jewellery to the trade and aspiring professionals. Supported by private donors and the GIA endowment fund, these scholarships supplement GIA’s wider scope of offerings. Recipients are eligible to participate in distance education e-learning courses, as well as campus-based classes in Bangkok, Carlsbad, Hong Kong, London, Mumbai, New York, Taiwan and at the GIA branch in Dubai. In 2013, GIA awarded nearly US$600 000 in scholarships to 190 students throughout the world.
Hong Kong International Jewellery Show expands exhibit space Following years of success and increasing demand for exhibition space, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show has introduced a new concept of “two shows, two venues” for this month’s event. A record 3 500+ exhibitors from more than 40 countries and regions are expected to participate. The fair will be transformed with the HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem and Pearl Show from 3-7 March at the AsiaWorldExpo, showcasing jewellery and raw materials, while the HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show follows from 5-9 March at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, displaying exquisite jewellery collections.
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NEWS
Mellier addresses sightholders and government leaders in Gaborone Relationships are key to success in the diamond industry, according to Philippe Mellier, the CEO of the De Beers Group. During his annual address to government members, sightholders and local businesses, he praised De Beers’ relationships with Botswana’s sightholders and consumers. He called on the industry to “build on the firm foundations we’ve established, continue to invest in the outstanding relationships that have brought us so far and ensure we continue working together for our mutual benefit”. Referring to De Beers’ 40-year relationship with Botswana and the relocation of the group’s international sightholder sales activity last year, Mellier said it has stimulated economic activity, elevating the country to one of the world’s leading rough diamond trading destinations. As for sightholders, Mellier said De Beers’ relationship with them has been central to key developments in the history of diamonds, whether as a catalyst for growth in beneficiation or growing demand in new consumer markets. He added that De Beers has been listening to
Cape Town Diamond Museum explores history of diamonds The Cape Town Diamond Museum can be found in the heart of the Clock Tower precinct at the V&A Waterfront and is unique, being the only one of its kind in Cape Town and the first to pay homage to the story of the South African diamond industry. Visitors are invited to explore the history,
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
sightholders’ views and is exploring ways to strengthen its dealings with them. Mellier noted that the most important relationship of all is that between the diamond industry and consumers. “Ultimately, a consumer’s desire for diamonds is the only true source of value in the industry,” he said. Turning finally to the outlook for diamond jewellery, he noted that there are good signs coming from the American economy, with improved demand in evidence over the holiday period. Looking east, there are also healthy signs on the horizon, with a positive outlook for sales around the Chinese New Year and for continued economic growth at around the same level seen in 2013. However, he cautioned that despite solid prospects for India in 2014, there remain some concerns about inflation and currency volatility in the short term. In closing, Mellier said: “If we continue to nurture the relationships on which our success is based, then we’ll also ensure that diamonds remain the symbol at the centre of a consumer’s desire.” – Rapaport romance and realities of diamonds. When were they first discovered in SA? Who wore the first diamond engagement ring? What is the most famous diamond in the world? All these stories are told with originality, style and sophistication. The museum features a number of authentic artefacts from SA’s diamond mining history. Visitors can walk through a replica mineshaft, complete with realistic sound and lighting. SA has produced some of the world’s largest, most valuable and memorable diamonds, including the Cullinan, the Hope and the Taylor Burton. Exact replicas of these stones are on display at the museum. The entire journey of diamonds is tracked, from mine to finger: how they were shaped beneath the Earth’s surface to the way they are cut and polished – processes which can also be viewed first-hand at the museum. The Cape Town Diamond Museum is open seven days a week from 9am-9pm and admission is free of charge.
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NEWS
Forevermark announces partnership At the recent GOOD Awards, Forevermark, the luxury diamond brand from the De Beers group of companies, announced a multi-year partnership with the Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF), joining its Empowerment Circle at the Infinity level. “With an aligned mission of bringing sustainable benefits to communities in diamond-producing nations in Africa, our partnership with DEF will help us deliver on our commitment to responsible sourcing,” said Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark. It was also announced that Forevermark and the DEF will launch the Forevermark Promise Scholars Programme this year. Students from the DEF’s three beneficiaries – the African Leadership Academy, the Botswana Top Achievers Programme and CIDA City Campus – will be supported through their academic journey through the programme. “This partnership is an effective way to provide scholarships to young emerging leaders, exemplifying the good that diamonds can do,” said DEF President Phyllis Bergman. Forevermark was one of the honorees at the GOOD Awards in New York City for global leadership and making a positive difference to communities around the world. Its diamonds
are carefully selected and come from sources committed to the highest business, social and environmental standards. This ensures that Forevermark diamonds benefit the individuals, communities and countries from which they originate. Only once a diamond has met these rigorous standards of integrity, in addition to strict quality criteria, can it be inscribed as a Forevermark stone with an individual number and brand icon. The Empowerment Circle was established in 2013 to help the DEF fulfil its mission of developing the next generation of leaders in diamond-producing nations. The three levels of Empowerment Circle partnerships are: Infinity – a multi-year major contribution that includes Forevermark; Perennial – an annual major contribution that includes the Dalumi Group and Malca-Amit Secure Logistics; and Meridian, an annual supporter contribution that includes Tiffany & Co, Exelco Diamonds (Tolkowsky Diamonds), Leo Schachter Diamonds (the Leo Diamond), Brilliant Earth and Sarine Technologies. The DEF is a global non-profit organisation based in New York City that raises money to fund education initiatives in African diamond-
producing nations. Beneficiaries include CIDA City Campus, SA’s first non-profit university offering a four-year business degree; the African Leadership Academy, a university preparatory school in Johannesburg, founded on the belief that ethical leadership is the key to sustainable development, and the Botswana Top Achievers Programme, which affords top high school students the opportunity to study at a university of their choice worldwide and then return to Botswana to contribute to its economic diversification and growth.
GIA and Bahrain develop a pearl testing facility The Bahrain Ministry of Industry & Commerce, the Bahrain Economic Development Board (EDB) and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to help develop the Kingdom of Bahrain’s Gemstone & Pearl Testing Laboratory (GPTLB) into a world-class research centre for natural pearls. “We’re pleased to contribute GIA’s expertise and research to build on Bahrain’s history and reputation as a leading centre for natural pearl research and production,” says Tom Moses, GIA’s Executive VicePresident and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. The initiative, which was agreed on at the end of last year, aims to protect and enrich Bahrain’s pearling industry by increasing capacity, research, expertise and technology at the GPTLB and identifying further opportunities for growth. The memorandum builds on Bahrain’s history as a world pearling centre, an industry once considered the backbone of the kingdom’s economy. “This is an exciting development for Bahrain’s pearling industry. By working in partnership with GIA, the GPTLB will be provided with the facilities and expertise required to capitalise on regional and international trade and investment opportunities in this fast-growing sector,” says Dr Hassan Abdullah Fakhro, the Minister of Industry & Commerce. “We are delighted to be working in partnership with GIA, a leading source of research, standards and education in gems and jewellery, to ensure the GPTLB has the tools required to boost Bahrain’s pearl production capacity,” adds Kamal bin Ahmed, Minister of Transportation and Acting Chief Executive of the Bahrain EDB. “Historically, pearling was the backbone of our economy and we want to capitalise on our heritage, combined with world-class techniques and processes, to create a centre of excellence for the industry in our country.” GIA has an established presence in the Middle East, conducting education programmes and courses in major trade centres including Bahrain, Dubai, Kuwait, Lebanon, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Turkey.
OGI unveils FireTrace Pro performance software OGI Systems Group, a leading global company for technological tools in the diamond industry, has launched FireTrace Pro Advanced Light Performance software for grading light reflection performance in round and fantasy diamonds. This advanced software allows retailers to brand their diamonds’ liveliness and uniqueness upon other diamonds, with a special certificate displaying brightness, fire and scintillation image and light performance cut-grade. FireTrace Pro assists diamond retailers as an additional sales tool. Customers can upload to the Cloud and share the beauty of the diamond with people around the world without leaving the store. This sophisticated software is an additional tier in OGI’s series of products that analyse and present a diamond’s light reflection based on its geometrical characteristics. FireTrace Pro also integrates into OGI’s latest Scanox HD series of high-resolution products. The software is available to all laboratories, dealers and diamond retailers around the world.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
BRAND HISTORY
A new patented system designed for World War II usage saw controls parallel to the dial in on-board chronographs – a feature which improved functionality. These sturdy and highly efficient instruments were used by Britain’s Royal Air Force, which incorporated them into its famous propelled fighters. The Breitling line of watch movements was extended in 1938 by the Chronomat – the first timepiece with a circular rule that could quickly and easily be used in a wide range of mathematical operations. These were the tachymeter and pulsometer, functions which found multiple uses in sports, industry and the technical professions. The famous Navitimer was introduced in 1952, designed specially for pilots and others in aviation. It became Breitling’s iconic model for all navigational professions and had two longitudinal scales for solving calculational problems: average speed, distance travelled, fuel consumption, rate of climb or ascent, as well as conversion of miles into kilometres or nautical miles. The watch became an object of veneration for all aviation enthusiasts. With the rise of commercial aviation, the brand became the official world supplier of specialised timepieces, gaining entry to the cockpits of Boeing 707s, DC-85s and Caravelles during the 1950s and 1960s. The first chronograph in space was worn by American astronaut Scott Carpenter on his orbital flight in the Aurora 7 capsule in 1962 – a Navitimer with a special 24-hour scale. The first self-winding chronograph was introduced in 1969. By submitting its entire production to the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, Breitling became the only major watch brand to offer all chronometer-certified movements in all models in its collection, both mechanical and quartz, creating a division in 1999 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The beginning of the 21st century saw the introduction of “super quartz” movements – models that were electronic and 10 times more accurate than ordinary quartz movements. In 2009 Breitling released its own mechanical movement, the BO1, which guaranteed its long-term independence. This movement has a column wheel, a trigger mechanism and a power reserve exceeding 70 hours, ensuring functionality and safety when in use. So what will Breitling introduce in 2014? Baselworld should divulge this.
A passion for chronographs Through five generations, Breitling has been associated with activities which require reliable and accurate measuring instruments. These include aviation, sports technology, science and industry. Its history is connected to great moments and events in the air, on land and beneath the sea. It all began in 1884 when Leon Breitling, the scion of a family who had been established for several generations in the Neuchâtel mountains, was driven by his passion for precision to open a shop in Saint-Imier in the Bernese Jura of Switzerland. It sold measuring instruments, specialising in chronographs and timers used in sports, science and industry. Breitling’s initial success encouraged him to transform his workshop into a watch factory, for which he moved to the country’s horological capital, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Here he set up L Breitling Montbrilliant Watches in the Saint-Imier Valley, where his workshops would remain for over 80 years. Advertisements for his products from 18891912 were for chronographs and timers. In 1915 Breitling was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph to be worn on the wrist, rather than carried in the pocket. Leon’s son Gaston, who succeeded him in 1914, had an ingenious idea – to create a pushpiece separate from the crown in order to operate the three chronograph functions (start, stop and return to zero). Back then, in
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
1923, the pushpiece was located at 2 o’clock. This patented innovation was followed by the perfecting of the system of chronograph controls in separating the functions activated by the crown. It was now possible to add several successive timers without having to reset the hands to zero, a particularly appealing advantage in sporting competitions and aviation. The first on-board chronograph for an aircraft cockpit was launched by the brand in 1923 and would make Breitling worldfamous. These were important instruments for both the time and flight time. They were of solid construction with accurate movements, featuring a black dial with luminescent white numbers set in a light aluminium case. The next important innovation for an aircraft was made under the leadership of the third generation – Leon’s grandson. In 1934 he instigated a second separate pushpiece used exclusively for resetting the chronograph to zero. This provided the final touch in giving the chronograph its modern face – a feature followed by the brand’s competitors.
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did you know?
Interesting facts 1
2
The word “diamond” comes from the Greek word “adamas”, which means “unconquerable and indestructible”.
According to legend, St Valentine wore an amethyst ring. In the Middle Ages, if a heart-shaped amethyst set in silver was given by a bride to her groom, it would bring the newly-weds happiness and peace for the rest of their lives.
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Hippocrates wrote that silver had beneficial healing properties. The expression “born with a silver spoon in one’s mouth” refers not to wealth, but to health, as children fed with silver utensils were believed to suffer less illness.
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During World War II the American government outlawed the use of platinum in jewellery to ensure enough supplies for military purposes.
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The Omega Speedmaster watch was used by NASA astronauts on their missions to the moon. Both American and Russian astronauts wore Omega Speedmaster watches in 1975 for the first spacecraft meeting of Apollo-Soyuz.
When tourmaline is rubbed, it can become statically charged and attract lint, dust or small pieces of paper. For this reason, it’s sometimes referred to as “the electric stone”.
3
Gold is much softer than other metals. It’s possible to beat 1 g of gold into a 1 m2 sheet and light would shine through it.
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Almost all rubies have flaws. Those without imperfections are exceptionally rare and command prices even higher than diamonds of a similar weight and quality.
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Engagement and wedding rings were once worn on the third finger of the left hand because it was thought that a vein in that digit led directly to the heart.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
15
GEMMOLOGY
Measuring physical and o properties of gemstones In the previous issue of SAJN, we examined some of the essential methods available to measure a gemstone’s specific gravity, refractive index, single and double refraction, pleochroism and optic character. This month we look at magnification, fluorescence and phosphorescence, as well as other instruments available such as the spectroscope, the thermal conductometer and the diamond pen, and how to obtain these. Magnification The proper use of magnification is essential for differentiation between natural and man-made gems. Instruments that can magnify between x10 and x200 are useful to the jeweller. Dark field illumination, where light is directed into the gem from its side, is most useful in illuminating the inside of a gem. Inclusions will show up white against a dark background. Cleaning a gem before magnification is essential, as dust particles on its surface are easily confused with internal inclusions. The gem is dipped into tetrachloride, acetone or alcohol and then wiped clean with a coloured piece of silk (cotton or other cloth will leave lint on the
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surface). A camelhair brush can be used to remove surface dust. Do not touch the gem with your fingers, as they will leave oily residues. The loupe The normal jeweller’s loupe has a magnification of x10 and can be used with dark field illumination if the light source is positioned so that light enters the gemstone at 90º to your line of sight through the lens. The microscope Much higher magnification (from x10 to x60) is possible with a microscope. Ordinary or polarising microscopes are available and the jeweller should study the operations manual carefully in order to obtain maximum results. Your first objective is to make sure that the “imperfections” you see are actually inside the gem and not dust on its surface. By using
a mechanical stone-holder to turn the stone around and by raising the tube, different sections of the gem can be brought into focus and surface dust easily identified. A number of accessories are available for the normal gem microscope. Of these, the most useful is a special gem-holder and a gradated eyepiece which can be used to quickly assess the proportions of a polished diamond. Another useful accessory is a special eyepiece-holder on which a digital camera can be mounted. The camera is connected to a video screen so that you can show and discuss a gemstone’s inclusions with your client. The immersion cell This is a useful tool that will help observations through a loupe or microscope. If a gem is suspended in a liquid with a similar RI, the gem becomes less visible, and the inclusions and external imperfections more obvious. Placing a piece of tracing paper below the immersion cell will improve your observations. Different liquids can be used, for example, water (RI = 1,34), olive oil (RI = 1,47), bromoform (RI = 1,59) and methylene iodide (RI = 1,74). Using an immersion cell will indicate whether the gem is a doublet or triplet (consisting of more than one type of material). Distinguishing between natural or manmade sapphires and rubies – and whether they have been diffusion-treated – is only possible by using an immersion cell with bromoform or even
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
GEMMOLOGY
fluoresce with a pale blue colour under long UV radiation. Diamonds can also fluoresce in many other colours. Phosphorescence Modern and highly technical instruments such as the Diamondview are used by gem laboratories to identify synthetic (man-made) diamonds. These machines identify the typical internal cathode luminescence (phosphorescence) patterns of synthetic diamonds.
optical
water. This method will also highlight the growth lines which will be straight and intersecting at a 120º angle in natural gems, or slightly curved in man-made gems.
Colour filters To assist his eye in identifying gems, a jeweller can use a colour filter. Of greatest use is the Chelsey filter, also called an emerald filter. This filter cuts out most of the green wavelengths that are transmitted from an emerald and allows only deep red wavelengths, which are also emitted by an emerald, to pass through the filter. Hold the gem over or in a strong white light source and, with the filter close to your eye, observe the gem’s colour. Fluorescence When ultraviolet or x-rays fall on some gems, these invisible wavelengths are transformed into longer wavelengths that are visible to the human eye. This property is known as fluorescence. If the ultraviolet or x-ray source is removed and the gem continues to emit a visible radiation, it is known as phosphorescence (similar to the green glow your watch hands emit in the dark long after the sun’s rays have been removed). The Mineralight is an instrument emitting a short-wave UV light (2537A), as well as a longwave UV light (3660A) and should be used in a darkened room. About 15% of all diamonds
Other instruments The spectroscope We know that when white light travels through a gem, certain wavelengths are absorbed and others transmitted. A spectroscope is designed to show a colour spectrum of the light which is transmitted or reflected from a gem. This colour spectrum will show bands of absorption (darkness) which correspond to the wavelengths of light that are absorbed by the gem. It is a difficult instrument for use by the normal jeweller, but gemmologists find it of great value when the refractometer cannot be used. The thermal conductometer A diamond feels cold to the touch because it rapidly conducts heat away from the skin. The unique and very high heat conductivity of a diamond can be measured by instruments such as the Ceres Probe and the GEM Diamond Master. Newer conductometers can even distinguish between diamond, moissanite and cubic zirconia. The diamond pen An old, but useful tool. With it, one draws an Indian Ink line across the surface of the gem which will break up into beads if the gem is not a diamond. The electronic balance Modern technology has produced small, portable scales that are quite accurate, reliable and not too expensive. The larger Mettler and Sagittarius diamond scales are very expensive, but much more user-friendly than the pocket varieties.
Electronic measuring devices Hand-held devices, such as the original Leveridge Gauge and other electronic gauges, are indispensable to the modern jeweller. These instruments are useful in measuring gemstone dimensions (even while set) and estimating of carat weight. The jewellery designer also has much use for it in measuring the thickness and height of settings. The diamond light In order to determine colour and see inclusions in gemstones, the correct light source must be used. Modern diamond lamps use daylight fluorescent tubes, which must be positioned just above the level of your eye so that the light enters the stone from above. Computer grading equipment Among computer-aided machines that assist gem laboratories with the grading of diamonds and gemstones are: • Diamension™ – which measures the dimensions and cut grade of gems. • DiaVision™ – which measures the light performance of gems and suggests recutting proportions. • Colibri™ – does diamond colour grading and fluorescent grading for polished diamonds. • DiaScribe™ – uses laser technology to inscribe a number or sentence on the girdle of a diamond. • GIA© Facetware™ – which grades a diamond according to the GIA© cut grading system and suggests recutting options. Obtaining instruments The start-up jeweller should have at least the basic instruments such as tweezers, cleaning cloths, loupe, an electronic measuring device, an electronic carat/ gram scale, a diamond tester and a proper diamond light source. Once you plan to extend your basic gem knowledge, or wish to enrol in a gem identification course, you can buy instruments from various suppliers such as GIA, which offers a package of instruments that includes a presentation microscope, a monochromatic light source, a duplex refractometer, a calcite dichroscope, a hand-held spectroscope and a polariscope. – Information courtesy of Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook
Cleaning a gem before magnification is essential, as dust particles on its surface are easily confused with internal inclusions. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Watch designs for the connoisseur The tourbillon is a timepiece for the connoisseur and two recent designs from Swiss brands are limited editions inspired by the history of watchmaking. Aptly named the Derrick tourbillon is Louis Monet’s limited edition of 12 pieces, for which the designers have used the elements of a pump jack (as utilised for extracting petroleum). This has magically brought to life the oil derricks. The mechanical movement includes revolutions of the tourbillon at the bottom of the dial. Set in an 18ct white gold case of 43 mm diameter, functions are hours and minutes and the watch is mounted on a hand-stitched Louisiana alligator strap that has a matching 18ct white gold and black PVD-treated buckle with a titanium clasp. The manufacturer has also released an Astrolabe tourbillon inspired by one of mankind’s oldest, but best-known astronomical instruments: the astrolabe. This exclusive,
numbered timepiece is presented in a wooden box with a meteorite fragment from the moon. Another tourbillon is the Louis Monet Dragon, inspired by the Chinese salamander, which has undergone several metamorphoses over the past three millennia. Manufacturer Armin Strom’s Fire has created its own tourbillon. This is a sophisticated, limited edition of 50 pieces designed to set off its prestigious mechanism and its features include an original white gold lever. It has a hand-wound movement in an 18ct pink gold case of 43,4 mm diameter which is water-resistant to 50 m. A sapphire crystal covering the black dial has appliqués, the hands are in matching pink gold and there is a transparent case-back. The strap is black horseback alligator with an 18ct pink gold folding clasp and the watch comes with a second strap in brown rubber.
Mechanical ingenuity Zeitwinkel expresses its nature through the 273° model and notably through its aesthetic choices, thanks to a clever play on contrasts between rounded and linear shapes, polished surfaces and textured zones that make this timepiece so distinctive. It also reveals its character through its approach to customer relations, since the youthful Saint-Imier-based brand is widely lauded for its mechanical ingenuity and independence, while continuing to focus on direct con-
tacts. The patented large date display at 11 o’clock, the power reserve indication and the exclusive in-house ZW0103 calibre eloquently express the brand’s expertise. The timepiece is available in a 42,5 mm stainless steel case with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 50 m, while the bracelet is of handsewn, alligator-patterned cowhide leather with a folding clasp. This is definitely an investment timepiece.
Time for the environment The David Green Timepiece Collection is intricate and personal, with an emphasis on individuality and style. Using processes and materials required to meet stringent criteria, all the work is hand-crafted. Based on the principle of “individuality in harmony with nature”, a real leaf has been integrated into each face design, stamping a distinctive DNA onto every timepiece. Water-resistant with an atmospheric depth of 5 m, the case is made of iron-plated stainless steel, rendering it both attractive and durable. The dial plate is crafted from brass with a mineral glass face and the genuine leather strap
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has been hand-stitched with green cotton. Global trends are moving towards “green” awareness. As a pioneer of environmentally responsible design and production, Green subscribes to the statement made by legendary marine researcher Jacques-Yves Cousteau: “For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive. In this century he is beginning to realise that in order to continue surviving, he must protect it.” By choosing a David Green timepiece, the discerning individual can express his individuality and personal style while showing an elegant vote of support to eco-consciousness.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Creating long-term values After over 50 years of existence, driven by a passion for fine watchmaking and the creation of unique and original models, Corum felt the need for regeneration. Its new owners, Severin Wunderman and his son Michael, gave it fresh momentum at the dawn of the new millennium, in January 2000. With the nomination of the new CEO, Antonio Calce, the implementation of the new strategy moved the brand firmly upmarket, repositioning it within its legitimate historical sphere. This shift has now been expressed by refocusing the collections on four pillars, represented by the Admiral’s Cup, Romvlvs, Golden Bridge and watchmaking specialties lines. Admiral’s Cup is the contemporary sporting expression of the brand, immediately identifiable by its 12-sided bezel and flange bearing 12 nautical pennants in place of hour markers. Romvlvs is an interpretation of the classic canons of fine watchmaking according to the noblest Swiss traditions, distinguished by the Roman hour numerals engraved on the bezel. Golden Bridge is an interpretation of Haute Horlogerie through transparency and exclusive linear movement featuring exceptional properties. Watchmaking specialties, by contrast, is an interpretation of artistic skill giving free rein to the brand’s “extreme” creativity. The new Golden Bridge range appears in a black ceramic version, offering an eminently sophisticated take on its distinctive architecture. The complexity of its baguette movement is accentuated by that of a case fashioned from one of the toughest materials to work with, thus embodying subtle chemistry between
technical refinement and aesthetic purity. Fashioning an all-ceramic watch case is a laborious process which requires injecting crystals into a mould at around 980-bar pressure. The first challenge involves ensuring that the material is uniformly spread so as to prevent roughness in the resulting surface texture. The next step is a 30-second firing in a furnace heated to 160°C in order to harden the still porous material. This extremely tricky phase causes the ceramic to shrink by about one-third of its volume in order to reach its final 34 x 51 mm size. The task calls for complete mastery of the firing time, since a few seconds too many could result in excessive shrinkage that would make the case too small to accommodate the calibre. The ceramic Golden Bridge has an ethereally light aesthetic, encapsulated by a slender silhouette of the baguette movement along the length of the tonneau-shaped case. This mechanism, first created in 1980, quickly established itself as a Swiss master technique for overcoming the energy transmission challenge implied by the watch’s extraordinary verticalaxis construction. The pure ceramic Golden Bridge even lines up the crown at 6 o’clock, as if to form an extension of its hand-wound CO 113 movement. Its slipping-spring winding system avoids forcing the mechanism, while a specific
coupling clutch has been developed to separate winding from time-setting by means of ingenious architecture in which the wheels and pinions are mounted between the mainplate and the bridge. Rather than a classic index- or regulatortype system, the calibre is equipped with a variable-inertia balance guaranteeing long-term accuracy. Beating at the frequency of 4 Hz (28 800 vibrations per hour) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement features two pillars visible on the bridges and ensuring enhanced resistance and rigidity – and thus greater precision. Perfectly staged within its black ceramic case, framed by four sapphire crystals forming the upper glass, back and sides, the baguette movement invites observers to enjoy a 360° immersion in the magic of its linear mechanism. The 5N 18 ct red gold upper bridge bears the hand-engraved Corum signature, surrounded by a slender scrolling motif depicting the three types of fern found in the forests of La Chaux-deFonds, where the Golden Bridge sprang to life. The red gold mainplate is also adorned with delicate hand engravings. Standing out against the movement, the open-worked, baton-type hands – and the absence of a dial – accentuate the model’s transparency, while a chic alligator leather strap fitted with a black PVD-coated pin buckle lends the ideal finishing touch.
Image courtesy Baselworld
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
Preparations are in full swing for this year’s edition of one of the world’s leading watch and jewellery events. From 27 March-3 April, more than 150 000 visitors and around 3 500 media representatives from all over the globe are expected at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show in Basel, Switzerland. Although the event’s also open to private individuals, it's essentially a B2B trade fair for the international watch and jewellery industry. New products and trends are presented by leading brands and it’s estimated that around 80% of global sales of watches and jewellery are generated at this annual show. Visitor numbers from the Far East – primarily from Hong Kong and China – have been increasing steadily over the past few years. The num-
Image courtesy Baselworld
Image courtesy Baselworld
Countdown to Baselworld 2014
ber of journalists from Asia covering the event has also grown by around 20% since 2010. The popularity of Baselworld among Asians is closely associated with the high demand for watches and jewellery in that part of the globe.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Exotic nights and mythical gardens This year, Trollbeads has two underlying themes for its Spring collection: Arabian Nights and the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Arabian Nights was inspired by the richness of an ancient culture, the mystery and passion of Aladdin. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon were considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, but in fact their location has never been definitely established. This has added to their mystique and has also inspired the latest Trollbeads collection. Trollbeads is famous for its playful use of glass beads, all of which are hand-made. The brand’s Spring 2014 collection includes a kit of six beads. Two of them are parts of the Arabian Nights theme. The concept was sparked by the Sirocco, the wind that blows sand from North Africa to southern Europe. The other glass bead, Desert Rose, was inspired by the rosette formations of crystal clusters that occur in arid, sandy environments. Two new faceted glass beads also enter the collection: Sahara Night and Sahara Jewel, where red flames sparkle from the inside.
The relatively new technique of engraved glass beads, first launched by Trollbeads in 2013, is used again in this range. Several animals also feature in the Arabian Nights collection. The snake and the falcon – both highly symbolic in Semitic cultures – are present. In fact, two falcons have been included: one in flight made of sterling silver, sending a message of love and triumph, and the other (also of sterling silver) positioned on a ruby.
Other sterling silver beads in the collection are the nomad, representing freedom, the kaleidoscope and the Moroccan cushion. In the centre of the Hanging Gardens collection stand the Drops of Delight – a flaçon made of sterling silver and rosa quartz. The flaçon is surrounded by glass and detailed, artful animals in sterling silver. Here you find the swan, an Arabian hare, a jewel fairy basslet and the African tortoise. You also find a little Babylonian nymph, living among the flowers. The four hand-made glass beads in the
Hanging Gardens are at once majestic and beautiful. Sparkles in turquoise suggest an ancient palace, glittering in royal blue and shimmering in green, like a desert oasis. The Spring 2014 collection also features two new gemstones: emerald and moss agate. Trollbeads started life in 1976 as Troldekugler in a small jewellery store in Copenhagen, Denmark, and is the original beads-on-bracelet brand. At the heart of the collection of interchangeable pieces are the beads themselves, each with its own history, inspired by mythology, astrology, fairytales, fauna, flora, cultural diversity and everyday objects. Trollbeads products include necklaces, earrings, rings and accessories. The jewellery is made from the highestquality raw materials, including 18ct gold, sterling silver, Italian glass, freshwater pearls, amber and precious stones and is created using both traditional and modern techniques. In 2001 the brand started to design glass beads, with no two ever exactly alike. To date, more than 60 designers have contributed to the Trollbeads collection. They have won international acclaim and have been exhibited at Sculpture Objects & Functional Art in Chicago and New York, USA.
A tribute to technology and style Resolutely sporty, daring and powerful, with water-resistance to 200 m, the Royal Marine by Seculus defies oceans and their depths. The 316L stainless steel case houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement. The result is 48 mm of pure functionality: a three-hand dial and a date window at 3 o’clock, highlighted by a magnifying lens built into the sapphire crystal. Loyal to the rigorous standards and high
performance demanded by Swiss watchmaking, the Royal Marine is a tribute to technology and style. Two engraved plates with or without gold plating – one between the lower horns and the other on the left-hand side of the case – proclaim the timepiece’s kinship with both the brand and the model. It is fitted with a sporty triple-link steel bracelet or a silicon strap with diving extension.
Staying true to its Celtic spirit For the past 28 years, Charriol has been a pioneer in blending art and civilisation in its designs to create unique and contemporary items using its very distinctive cable concept. Today you’ll find the signature of its legacy in its watch collections, enhanced by a broad range of jewellery, writing instruments, men’s accessories and leather goods. The Charriol collections combine passion and inspiration with a twist of classic sophistication. True to the Celtic spirit of the brand, Charriol
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recently presented Ael (which means “angel” in Celtic). “A jewel of a watch that young women will adore” is how the brand descibes the range. Proposed in black or white, this seemingly minimalist duo has more than one surprise in store – the bezel and case are in ceramic, accentuated by the stainless steel cable that circles this 34 mm diameter timepiece. Cables also embellish the rubber strap. It has a quartz movement and functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Impressive design from Pierre De Roche Like an exciting relay race, each of the four sec- onds hands runs a 10-second lap before passing on the baton. But after the first two have completed their legs, the baton mysteriously disappears behind the power reserve indi- cator, only to reappear for the final two. Whimsical and mischievous, this complex mechanism is a world first. The Pierre De Roche TNT Royal Retro Power Reserve has an automatic-movement, exclusive
Dubois Dépraz calibre. Functions include hours, minutes, retrograde seconds, power reserve indicator and date. The watch comes in a black PVD-treated titanium container and is 47,5 mm in diameter. It has a steel bezel, lugs and crown shield, as well as an anti-reflective sapphire crystal in the front and back. The dial is made of black alligator skin with a steel folding clasp. It is water-resistant to 100 m and is a limited edition of 201 pieces.
Arceau Le Temps Suspendu It’s time to dream at Hermès. Arceau Le Temps Suspendu features a 38 mm case and continues the story begun by the first model in 2011. A press on the pusher at 9 o’clock and the magic begins to weave its spell as the hour and minute hands come to a halt at 12 o’clock. The time is erased from the dial and thus dissociated from standard time, that begins running thanks to the Manufacture H912 movement. A playful hand, turning counter-clockwise on an indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock, signals that the mechanism is indeed in operation. Another
press brings the hands back to their proper place and time starts running again. The case is of 750 18ct pink gold or 316L stainless steel, with or without 62 diamonds and a 38 mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal, front and back. The watch is water-resistant to 30 m. It is available with an opaline silver-toned dial with white mother-of-pearl on gem-set versions, while the strap is available in matt havana or indigo blue alligator skin with a buckle in 750 18ct pink gold or steel.
Ebel’s seductive X-1 The magnificent X-1 by Ebel is brimming with style. It harmoniously combines steel and ceramic against an intense black background flowing from case to bracelet. In the foreground, juxtaposed diamonds play a seductive and sophisticated game: the crown is adorned with 15 diamonds, while 48 others grace the bezel and another eight embellish the dial.
This watch embodies a number of bold aesthetic choices, making it the perfect accessory for dynamic, chic and self-confident women. The smooth ceramic and polished steel bracelet features Ebel’s signature wave links. The timepiece comes with a quartz movement and functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date. It is water-resistant to 100 m.
Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Freak Phantom With Baselworld 2014 due to open on 27 March, watch manufacturers are releasing advance information about their new creations. It seems pink gold cases haven't lost their attraction and Swiss brand Ulysse Nardin will present its Freak Phantom in one of 18ct. It's an odd name for a timepiece, but then this is no ordinary one, as it has a number of unusual features. It's a hand-wound tourbillon in a
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
45 mm case, wound at the back of the case. Functions are hours and minutes (revealed by rotation of the movement), with small seconds on the flying tourbillon. The mechanical movement, Calibre UN208, is hand-wound and the openwork Carousel tourbillon shows the hours and minutes (one revolution per hour), while small seconds are on the flying tourbillon. One full rotation presents a 12-hour power reserve and the time is set by unlocking and rotating the bezel. The patented balance spring is silicon, while the escapement is non-lubricated silicon. The movement vibrates at 28 800 beats per hour and the power reserve is eight days. This timepiece, mounted on a black crocodile leather strap with a folding clasp, is a true innovation.
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MARKETPLACE
Heraeus South Africa (Pty) Ltd. 29 Atlas Road, Anderbolt, Boksburg. P.O Box 6089, Dunswart,1508 Phone: +27 (0)11 841 1907, Fax: +27 (0)86 564 8265 nhlamulo.chauke@heraeus.com
Send your email address to subscriptions@isikhova.co.za with “Biz-News” in the subject line, or contact us on 011 883 4627.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
Leading SOUTH AFRICA’S
DIAMOND SUPPLIER
Tel: +27 11 334 4815/6 Email: michael@abstral.co.za
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014
LITTLE GEMS
The old order changeth... Ernest Oppenheimer was born in Freiberg, Germany, of Jewish parentage, the son of a cigar merchant. He began his working life at the age of 16 with a diamond brokerage firm in London’s Hatton Garden as a trainee diamond valuer. His impressive performance motivated his employer to send him to South Africa at the age of 22 to represent the company as a buyer in Kimberley, a task which preoccupied him for 15 years, during which he rose to increasingly senior positions and eventually represented the town in Parliament. In the 1880s, Kimberley was the cradle of industrialisation in South Africa, where the future of the diamond industry was shaped and diamonds were Oppenheimer’s prime interest. For someone with his acumen, De Beers was the plum. Later he became interested in gold mining on the East Rand and ultimately built his financial empire on gold. Oppenheimer founded mining giant Anglo American in 1917 with a combination of British and American finance. US financier, JP Morgan, took on De Beers and eventually consolidated its global monopoly of the diamond industry, which included price-fixing and anti-trust behaviour during his lifetime – not without controversy – as well as allegations of not releasing industrial diamonds for the American war effort. During World War I Oppenheimer helped establish the Kimberley regime and organised the labourers required to build a railway line between Upington and the South West African border. In 1921 the British government conferred a knighthood on him for his war efforts, despite his German origins. However, anti-German sentiments in the town culminated in an attack on his home. He became Chairman of De Beers in 1929 and was the creator of the Central Selling Organisation (CSO), which regulated the sale of 80% of the world’s diamond production. Under its auspices, diamond prices were fixed – with good reason, since Oppenheimer believed that demand for luxury products was more erratic than the demand for necessities and consumer confidence would be shaken, or even lost, if prices were allowed to fluctuate wildly. During the years when Sir Ernest was creating the CSO, the industry was experiencing the full impact of the 1929 Depression and the
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The control of De Beers Diamonds by Cecil John Rhodes was a battleground in the early 20th century. The successful financier was Ernest Oppenheimer, who managed to wrest control in 1927. De Beers was founded by Rhodes in 1886 and financed by diamond magnate Alfred Beit and London-based AN Rothschild & Son. But the German-born immigrant – and, ultimately, his three family successors – built and consolidated its global marketing arm. Alice Weil traces the history. organisation did its best to regulate sales. In 1930 he founded the Diamond Corporation to buy from outside producers and the Diamond Purchasing & Trading Company to buy the production of De Beers mines in South Africa, as well as South West Africa’s alluvial diamonds – an area which was an important producer – for both companies. Four years later he incorporated the Diamond Trading Company to buy from both and sell to the trade, creating a single sales channel for major producers. Until the mid-1950s, De Beers received diamonds chiefly from its own mining companies, which were the major producers. De Beers had become a family business during the final years of Sir Ernest’s life. Upon his death in 1957, his son, Harry, who had been with the company since the age of 25, became its Chairman, as well as the Chairman of Anglo American. Sir Ernest’s brother, Sir
Bernard Oppenheimer, was also involved in the business, as was Sir Philip Oppenheimer (who ran it for 30 years) and his son, Anthony. Harry’s son Nicholas eventually assumed the reins. Sir Ernest’s legacy has been documented in history books, while the Oppenheimer Diamond was named in his honour by American jeweller Harry Winston, who donated it in 1964. It remains uncut and unpolished in Washington’s Smithsonian Institute as a memorial to a pioneer of the diamond industry. Today there is no Oppenheimer at the helm of De Beers. The family sold out to Anglo American. As Alfred, Lord Tennyson wrote in Morte d’Arthur: “The old order changeth, yielding place to new, And God fulfils Himself in many ways, Lest one good custom should corrupt the world.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2014