R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News MARCH 2019
SA
Alice Weil turns 100: celebrating a remarkable woman Zimbabwe plans production hike in 2019 Disclosing the fakes
Finest Gemstones & Beads Cape Town: 021 422 4677 or 021 424 0063 or 076 162 3741 Email: info@ajanta.co.za or gems@ajanta.co.za www.ajantaafrika.com
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
5
STRAP
c ntents
Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za
20. BRAND HISTORY
8. NEWS
Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: trivern@isikhova.co.za
A source of inspiration
• Local jewellery designer Top 10 finalist in international competition
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
• Cape Watch network event this month
• Jewellex Africa 2019 dates announced • 2019 South African Contemporary Jewellery Awards launched
Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
• International Diamond Week 2019 declared a major success
Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za
• Pandora predicts drop in 2019 sales
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
15. RETAIL CORNER
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
Nightmare on Valuation Street
22. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Panerai Transat Classique 2019 • Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
• Rado’s HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za
• A service to the industry
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo
24. LITTLE GEMS Disclosing the fakes
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
6
CIBJO seminar in Vicenza focuses on responsible sourcing
• Zimbabwe plans production hike in 2019
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
21. INTERNATIONAL SEMINAR
16. ALICE WEIL TURNS 100 Celebrating a remarkable woman
R36,00 (incl VAT)
Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal
Jewellery News MARCH 2019
SA
Alice Weil turns 100: celebrating a remarkable woman Zimbabwe plans production hike in 2019 Disclosing the fakes
On the cover THE INVITED PANEL • The Hon. Minister Gwede Mantashe • Mike Pneuma, Pneuma Academy • Mike Teke, Seriti Resources. • Minerals Council SA. • Vuyokazi Mofu, Skills Development & Research (MQA). • Axis House.
THE DISCUSSION “ How We Can Apply the Solutions Together.“ “Come join us. We need our entire industry represented. Let’s solve the challenges as a team!” – Mike Pneuma
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
NEWS
LOCAL JEWELLERY DESIGNER TOP 10 FINALIST IN INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION South African jeweller Madeli Viljoen of Madelief Jewellery was announced a Top 10 finalist of the Bijorhca International Jewellery Design Awards competition. Viljoen, a former Tshwane University of Technology student and a De Beers Shining Lights Design Competition runner-up, returned from her trip to the Bijorhca Expo in Paris at the end of January. As a finalist, she gained VIP access to the entire event and the awards ceremony. The winner, runner-up and second runner-up (all three of whom are from France) were announced on 20 January. The Top 10 designers’ entries
were framed and displayed throughout the expo, showcasing their designs to thousands of visitors within the industry. “It was a very proud moment to be representing South Africa in France and a wonderful experience meeting so many international designers,” says Viljoen. “It was also wonderful to be able to expose and share my unique South African jewellery design appreciation with them. “The support I’ve received from the South African jewellery community has been absolutely amazing. I’m truly grateful and inspired to be a South African jewellery designer.”
AVIDAR TO LEAVE POSITION AND RUN FOR OFFICE IN ISRAELI KNESSET ELECTION Eli Avidar, CIBJO Vice-President, has resigned his position at the World Jewellery Confederation, announcing that he plans to run for national political office during the upcoming elections for the Israeli Parliament (Knesset), which will take place on 9 April. “Five years ago I had the honour and privilege of being invited to join the CIBJO Board of Directors by its President, Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, and was given the opportunity to serve as VicePresident. In 2007 I left the Israeli Foreign Minis-
try, where I’d served as a career diplomat, to join the diamond industry. Now, 12 years later, I feel compelled to go back and serve my people as an elected member of the Knesset,” says Avidar. “I greatly value my time in the industry and, in particular, the period I served as a CIBJO officer. I feel especially indebted to Gaetano, who taught me a great deal about the meaning of leadership. I’m privileged to consider him a dear friend.” “It’s with regret that we accept Eli’s resig-
nation, but we applaud his reasons for doing so,” says Cavalieri. “There’s no higher calling than public office and, in our experience, he has the commitment, knowledge, skills, talent and motivation to be a tremendous Parliamentarian. Our loss will be his country’s gain. We wish him the very best of luck.” In addition to his position at CIBJO, until 2018 Avidar served as Executive Director of the Israel Diamond Exchange and Managing Director of the Israel Diamond Institute.
2019 SA CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY AWARDS LAUNCHED Creative Feel, in partnership with FADA Gallery, has announced the launch of the 2019 SA Contemporary Jewellery Awards Exhibition. The event will showcase finalist pieces selected from a national jewellery design and manufacture competition introduced at the launch of Africa’s first Contemporary Jewellery Forum in the Jewellery Department of the University of Johannesburg in October 2017. These initiatives are premised on promoting jewellery as a creative medium for personal expression and providing a platform for the development of cutting-edge concepts and techniques, while creating fine and distinctive art jewellery. For many years SA has been a major player in the mining of minerals, supplying gold, platinum and diamonds to the global jewellery manufacturing sector, while nationally, there has been relatively little beneficiation of these local raw materials. This competition therefore aims to encourage artists to innovate and create, to combine
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materials, techniques and finishes, to push boundaries beyond the obvious and mundane and, ultimately, to maximise the local economic contribution. “Contemporary jewellers are in the unique position of being able to make work that crosses many boundaries – art, design, fashion, craft and engineering – while the intimate scale of jewellery and its close relationship to the body also make it a great vehicle for communication. There are many talented jewellery artists working in this country at the moment who don’t get the recognition they deserve, so these awards are a much-needed platform to showcase their work to a broader audience,” says contemporary South African jewellery Geraldine Fenn. The awards exhibition aims to bring together established jewellers, including young and aspiring artists, in the creation of one-of-akind expressive or installation pieces. There will be no limitations to the way they visualise and
realise their concepts. The winner and runnerup of the competition will be announced at a gala awards ceremony on 18 March 2019, after which the SA Contemporary Jewellery Awards Exhibition will open at the FADA Gallery on the Bunting Rd campus of the University of Johannesburg. International and local judges will ensure that the works selected are deserving of their inclusion in this well-established niche market. All pieces on exhibition will be for sale, presenting an opportunity for artcollectors and the public to add jewellery to their collections. A comprehensive catalogue of all works on exhibition will be forthcoming, contributing to research and development in this field and stimulating much-needed growth in this niche market. Exposure of the winning artist’s pieces and those of the runners-up in an issue of Creative Feel will gain them national and international recognition.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
NEWS
ERNIE BLOM PRAISES KDE’S INITIATIVE TO ABOLISH HIGH DIAMOND TAX World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Ernie Blom has praised the work of the WFDB-affiliated Korea Diamond Exchange (KDE) in persuading the government to abolish a high diamond tax instituted more than four decades ago. Following five years of talks and intensive work by the KDE, in December the South Korean government abolished a 26% Individual Consumption Tax (ICT) on imported polished diamonds that dates back to 1976, says bourse Chairman Nam Chang-Soo. “Now South Korean diamond importers will have a simplified tax regime: a 5% import tax and 10% value-added tax,” says Chang-Soo. “We hope the abolition of the ICT and simplified taxes will have a very positive effect on diamond jewellery sales in South Korea. I believe we’ll see a big increase in sales of polished diamonds and diamond jewellery.” He adds that annual sales of polished diamonds in South Korea amount to around US$2,5 billion, while
diamond jewellery sales are in the order of US$5 billion per year. “Together with the WFDB, we aim to build improved business practices and show diamonds in a positive way to consumers in South Korea. The ICT restricted the domestic jewellery industry’s growth and competitiveness globally. The abolition of the ICT will boost the growth of the jewellery industry locally and worldwide. It’s opened doors not only for members of the local jewellery industry, but also for foreign diamond manufacturers and dealers to establish a foothold in the market. “I’m also confident that this amendment in tax structure will lead to increased tax revenue from higher official imports of diamonds and will curb underground business. This will also lead to the revitalisation of the jewellery industry and finished diamond and precious stone-set jewellery, with competitive prices for global markets. In addition, I believe it
will lead to increased consumption of loose diamonds in the country.” “It’s always encouraging to see governments abolishing taxes, which only serve to restrict sales, and to make tax regimes simple and logical,” says Blom. “I congratulate the KDE and Nam Chang-Soo for their hard work and persistence over the past five years in putting the case to their government. South Korean people love diamonds and I believe this tax change will expand sales and encourage foreign companies to become involved in the world'’s eighth-largest economy. I encourage our bourse members around the world working under high taxation to approach their respective governments to bring down tax rates.”
NEWS
STULLER INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR TO HOST TALKS IN SOUTH AFRICA Xavier Rofes, International Director of Stuller Inc, will be hosting talks in Johannesburg and Cape Town on the digital jewellery experience, how to attract the new age digital client by integrating digital design, 3D output methods in the retail environment and incorporating Stuller Showcase on your website. Rofes will also discuss Stuller product ranges and quality standards, as well as how to sell with a powerful sales presentation using CounterSketch and MatrixGold and the ease of printing models for the client to fit.
“We're extremely excited about the Digital Wax/Stuller seminar for jewellers to find out more about Stuller software and jewellery products,” says Eve Scholtz of Digital Wax. During 2018 Digital Wax partnered with Stuller to launch its products locally. The seminars will take place in Johannesburg on 30 March in Sandton at City Lodge in Katherine St and in Cape Town on 2 April at City Lodge at the V&A Waterfront. Both seminars will take place from 11h00-16h00 and are free of charge.
CAPE WATCH NETWORK EVENT THIS MONTH Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies will be hosting a network event at its showroom in Cape Town on the 6th Floor, 33 Church St, Vunani Chambers on Thursday, 28 March 2019. On the day, overseas suppliers will demonstrate machines and the latest technology. The event will also be attended by several industry professionals, educators and institutions, gemstone and diamond evaluators, as
well as refining and metal specialists. A large array of equipment, tools and technology will be on display. “By hosting an event like this, we aim to create an opportunity for all levels of jewellers and goldsmiths to network and learn more about the industry,” says Tennille Hoge of Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies. “There’ll also be huge specials, prizes and giveaways.”
JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019 DATES ANNOUNCED The Jewellery Council of SA has announced the dates for this year’s Jewellex Africa. It will take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg. The show attracts exhibitors and buyers from SA, African states and international countries. It offers an environment for B2B linkages that result in significant business growth and the integration of new industry participants. Jewellex Africa offers the buyer a wide variety in terms of merchandise and services available. The event has established a reputation for being the premier showcase for South African manufacturers and distributors.
MARKETS
Business barometer JANUARY 2019 VS JANUARY 2018
A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
DIAMOND DEALERS
RETAILERS
Best-selling diamond size
0% BETTER
0% BETTER
0% BETTER
0%
0%
% SAME
% SAME
% SAME
0%
100%
100%
100%
WORSE
Foot traffic
WORSE
General sales compared with last year this time
WORSE
Watch sales
WHOLESALERS 0,5ct General sales compared with last year this time
General sales compared with last year this time
100%
0%
BETTER
BETTER
Breakdown of retail sales
0%
0%
% SAME
% SAME
0%
100%
WORSE
WORSE
bridal
fine jewellery
watches
15%
76%
9%
MANUFACTURERS
66.6% BETTER
0%
(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council
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0%
0%
BETTER
BETTER
66.6%
66.6%
% SAME
% SAME
% SAME
33.3%
33.3%
33.3%
WORSE
WORSE
Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
WORSE
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
RETAIL CORNER
Nightmare on Valuation Street A monthly column written by industry expert Dr Petré Prins. IN 2018 A SUNDAY NEWSpaper published a scathing article on the ability of our industry to do proper and ethical insurance valuations. The article mentioned a diamond ring valued at R54 000 by a retail jeweller who, a few months later, offered to buy it back for R1 000. In addition, five different jewellers were asked to issue an insurance valuation for the same article. Their replacement values ranged from R50 000-R320 000. Surely the public must think that jewellers are greedy and unprofessional, with no clue what they’re doing. Such articles damage the trust which our consumers need to buy valuables and are harmful to our entire sector simply because we lack an industry-wide valuation standard for gems and jewellery. Two years ago, the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) issued a commendable document informing its members of the code and minimum requirements for gem and jewellery valuations. The problem is that JCSA members may number fewer than half of all jewellers operating in our industry. To reach uninformed operators and induce them to obtain a minimum qualification, while making that training both available and affordable, is the greater challenge. Meanwhile, a flood of over-valued and inaccurate valuation certificates are presented to insurers who, knowingly or otherwise, charge an inflated premium. If the item is lost and replaced, based on an inadequate description, the client is unhappy, which is detrimental to both the jewellery and insurance industries. Only we can resolve this situation. Firstly, we need a unified vision of what is
best and achievable for our sector. Then we need to come up with a practical proposal to resolve our valuation mess. Secondly, we have to engage with the insurance industry on issues relating to our valuations and their replacement policies. Insurers can easily replace an item which has a specific make and model number – thus retaining a happy client. However, with gems and jewellery, where small differences in quality and style greatly affect value and clients’ acceptance of replacements, our insurers need guidance from jewellery experts, not from suppliers who offer the largest discount. Our Achilles heel is the dearth of valuation expertise among retail jewellers. As long as there is no state- or industry-sponsored training programme in place, our valuation nightmare will get worse. Our industry needs a professional qualification for retail jewellers and an industry regulation specifying who is allowed to issue valuation reports (which, after all, are legal documents). When a client is experiencing difficulty with an insurance claim or taxes because his valuation was inaccurate, he could well become angry enough to take legal action against the valuer. I wonder how many of those issuing valuation reports are aware of their fiduciary obligations. When issuing a valuation report, you are presenting yourself as a jewellery expert and are responsible for a professional, ethical and confidential valuation, supported by research. The SAJC is currently preparing a code for standardising diamond prices (based on international price lists), to
be used on all valuation reports. This is long overdue and very welcome, but could be a thorny issue, especially for those who regularly offer discounts up to 70% on diamond jewellery. Should their valuation certificates carry the same replacement value for an item purchased at half-price as that of a similar item sold a week before, at full price? If so, a client could be unhappy with an insurance premium based on a value double what he paid for an item. In the valuation of laboratorygraded diamonds, either loose or set in jewellery, the use of international price lists should be acceptable to all. Another issue: how much escalation should be included in a replacement value to accommodate local cost inflation? During years when the dollar price of diamonds increased and the value of our rand decreased, a sizeable escalation premium was justified. No longer. It is time our industry took the initiative. Our growing black middle class aspires to owning gold and diamonds and often falls victim to outrageous valuations. Legislators may feel our industry requires further regulation to protect the uninitiated, as happened in the early 1990s in the USA and elsewhere. We already have a Property Valuation Bill (B54-2103) and a Valuator-General guiding the valuation of property identified for land reform. Do we want government to tell us how we should value and insure the products we sell? The threat of legislation should be enough to spur us to action. The SA Council for the Property Valuers Profession, the SA Institute of Valuers, the Act on Valuers (Act 47 of 2000), the Ombudsman for Short-Term Insurance, our Consumer Protection Act and the examples of other countries offer valuable guidelines for our industry towards providing greater expertise. Let’s accept the responsibilities that come with a truly professional industry.
When issuing a valuation report, you are presenting yourself as a jewellery expert and are responsible for a professional, ethical and confidential valuation, supported by research. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
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ALICE WEIL TURNS 100
Celebrating a remarkable woman This month Alice Weil, an icon in the world of fine watches, jewellery and diamonds, will be celebrating her 100th birthday. Alice, who has been a part of the industry for 40 years now, only commenced her current career of captivating audiences with her fascinating and significant articles and stories at the age of 60. ALICE WAS BORN ON 14 MARCH 1919 IN Cape Town and attended the Michaelis School of Art at the University of Cape Town, qualifying in commercial art. She worked as a Junior Executive for Engelhard Industries – a company which dealt in precious metals (gold and platinum), as well as forestry and plastics – and remained with them for 10 years. She then started writing short articles for SABC Radio’s Short Stories From Near and Far. With encouragement from her family, Alice accepted a writing position with SA Jewellery News (then known as Diamond News & SA Jeweller). Her monthly column, Little Gems, is still a favourite read in the magazine and delves into the exotic, exciting and glamorous world of jewellery and watches. In 2008 Isikhova Publishing published Little Gems – a collection of her most beautifully written work spanning decades of service to the industry, featuring fine jewellery, timepieces, diamonds, pearls, coloured stones, precious metals, auctions, luxury goods, shopping, antiques, fashion and celebrities. Only months before her 100th birthday, Alice allowed Michael Pryke to share her inspiring life. This is an extract from My Notebook and Camera: The Biography of a Remarkable Woman. In 1943, Alice and Aubrey were married at the Gardens Synagogue in Cape Town at a ceremony attended by 200 guests. Alice moved to Johannesburg with her new husband and for the first year, they lived at Sylberta Court in Hillbrow. She became very close to
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her mother-in-law, Dora, who was of Irish descent and became Alice’s best friend for 25 years. It was Dora who found them a charming new house in Orange Grove, next to Paterson Park. Aubrey suffered the first of a series of heart attacks 21 months after their marriage. The process of cardiac bypass surgery was still in its infancy in the USA – sadly, too early for application in South Africa. How different Alice’s life journey would have been had this process been more advanced. Their son Andrew was born in 1947, the same year that Cartier celebrated its centenary. When Andrew started nursery school at the age of two-and-a-half, Alice became very involved in the nursery school association, attending meetings and discussions and assisting wherever she could. Even so, she felt somewhat unfulfilled and hankered to do something more which would stimulate her mind. She was offered a job running the music
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
ALICE WEIL TURNS 100
library at the SABC, but Aubrey was insistent that she did not need to work. Alice therefore became involved with politics. The United Party was in power at that time and was fighting an election to retain the important Langlaagte seat. She assisted with election preparations and also on Election Day. Thereafter, she was involved in locating missing voters and was subsequently asked to oversee the Johannesburg North constituency of the party, which had been renamed the Progressive Party. She had an acquaintance and professional relationship with Helen Suzman, probably the most powerful woman in South African politics at the time. In one amusing incident years later, Alice was on a Swissair flight to Zurich when a passenger approached her and exclaimed what an honour it was to be on the same flight as Helen Suzman. He had mistaken her for the intrepid politician! The summiting of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made world headlines in 1953. The expedition members were equipped with Rolex Oyster Perpetual wristwatches. This timepiece immediately acquired iconic status. In 1956, Alice and Aubrey sent Andrew to his grandparents in Cape Town while they went on a three-month tour of England and Ireland. The outbound voyage on the Edinburgh Castle took two weeks. They travelled by rail and road throughout England and Ireland, visiting all the significant historical sites, tourist spots, museums and places of interest, staying in lodgings both famous and quaint. While in Ireland, they stayed for a period at Ashford Castle, situated on the shore of Loch Corrib in County Mayo. Twenty years later, this inspired a short story for SABC radio, entitled The Luck of the Irish. They also attended every production playing in the West End. During the same trip, Alice wrote the script for a 16 mm home movie that she and Aubrey filmed. She called the production High Street London, using the Thames as the high street of the city which grew along its banks as the metaphor. It displayed all the city’s highlights in an artistic representation. Later, they entered the film in a Johannesburg Photographic Society competition. It was a memorable episode culminating in a multitude of enjoyable experiences together. The happiness of Alice and Aubrey was destined to be cut short. Sadly, in 1958, at the age of 41, Aubrey suffered his seventh heart attack and died. Alice, at 39, with a 10-year-old son, became a widow. Her brother, concerned for her well-being, offered her a job three mornings a week, supervising distribution, stock con-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
17
ALICE WEIL TURNS 100
trol and ordering in the Johannesburg depot of the family business. Some three years later, she realised she required additional skills and she enrolled for shorthand and typing classes, not knowing the extent to which these skills would contribute to her subsequent career. A couple of years into the job, Alice accompanied Andrew on a trip to Victoria Falls. During the plane trip, she was introduced to Cynthia Gevisser, who was travelling to (then) Rhodesia to meet up with her husband, who was on a job there. Cynthia took Alice’s number and promised to contact her. One afternoon, on the patio of the Victoria Falls Hotel, a man approached Alice and, recognising her, asked whether they had met before. It turned out that they knew each other from her Tamboerskloof days. They developed a friendship for two years, which helped Alice through her tough times, although they eventually drifted apart when Alice went to stay with her friends, Shirley and Harold Sergay, in Salisbury. Shirley now lives in Johannesburg and remains Alice’s oldest surviving friend of their generation. Alice travelled the country and the major story of the era was the massive construction of the Kariba Dam – at that time, the largest dam in the world. When she visited the area, the water was still rising and the treetops projected eerily above the waterline. During this period, between 1958 and 1964, Rupert Fothergill became world-famous in Operation Noah as the saviour of over 6 000 animals, from ant-eaters to elephant and zebra… and everything in between. Alice also toured the Eastern Highlands and stayed at the famous Leopard Rock Hotel, a favourite of Princess Margaret. During 1960, another underwater event made international history. The Rolex Deep Sea Special experimental watch was attached to the bathyscaphe, the Trieste, which successfully descended into the Mariana Trench, the deepest known depression on the earth’s surface. With Lieutenant Don Walsh at the helm, accompanied by Jacques Piccard, the Trieste accomplished a feat so incredible that it forever raised the bar for deep-ocean exploration. The Rolex was in perfect working order, surviving a depth of 10 916 m (37 800 feet) during the historic dive. Cynthia kept her word and around a year later, while she was sitting with Alice and a number of other people at the Killarney Country Club, a young man joined the group. He was introduced as David Gevisser and had recently relocated from Durban to Johannesburg to run the family business, Moshal Gevisser. He revealed some weeks later that he was looking
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for a secretary. It was at this point that one of life’s remarkably lucky breaks occurred. When David learnt of Alice’s shorthand and typing skills, he offered her the job. What unfolded for Alice was an exciting career in a world she could never have imagined. David held a degree in forestry from Stellenbosch University and his activities included visiting the forests and sawmills that were a division of the company’s interests in the Sabie area. Alice became his executive assistant and often drove with him on his sawmill visits. While he
was engaged in meetings, he encouraged her to use the car to enjoy the scenic grandeur of the eastern area. She visited a number of the natural beauty spots in the region, including the Mac Mac Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck Potholes and quaint settlements like Hazyview and Barberton. Her job took an unexpected twist through the intervention of Charles Engelhardt in David’s career. Charles, an American millionaire and owner of Engelhardt Industries, a global conglomerate, had a business in South Africa named Engelhardt Hanovia. The company had interests in a variety of industries, including
Acme Timber Industries and SA Forest Investments, listed on the stock exchange, as well as holdings in businesses involved in the plastics and precious metals industries. He was an original shareholder in Rustenburg Platinum Mine. Charles asked David to become CEO of all his interests in South Africa. Alice moved with him into this next phase of her own ascent in the world of business. It was a heady and exciting environment. They had numerous American visitors, highlighted always by the arrival of Charles Engelhardt from Newark, NY in his private plane, accompanied by a dedicated retinue, including his personal chef and favourite dog. Charles was a close friend of Harry Oppenheimer and was a larger-than-life character. He pushed personal and business boundaries, fuelled by the copious quantities of Coca-Cola which he drank throughout the day! Alice further developed her writing skills during this period through innumerable written projects that she completed for David. Among the unusual and exciting things that she witnessed was the innovative export of gold from South Africa during WWII, when it was illegal to export gold bullion. Charles disguised the gold by having it cast into figurines and objects which could pass scrutiny. The gold was re-cast as legal ingots on arrival at destination. It is rumoured that this was the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel, Goldfinger. Alice recalls the 10 years she and David worked together as being utterly wonderful and, to this day, she remains friendly with his widow. Their eldest son, Mark Gevisser, is a renowned political journalist. It was while working with David that Alice attended a New Year’s Eve party at a friend’s house in 1963. At the party, she met Alan Weil. There was mutual attraction and they started going out together. They were married five months later. Charles Engelhardt’s high-flying lifestyle caught up with him and while only in his 50s, he died. He had always promised his friend, Harry Oppenheimer, that if his company were to be sold, Anglo American would have first option. Thus Charles’s legacy was absorbed into the mighty empire of South Africa’s largest business. Alice had in-depth knowledge of the working environment within Anglo and after the freedom and responsibility of being David’s executive assistant, could not envisage becoming pigeon-holed in a secretarial pool at Anglo American. Consequently, aged 60, Alice retired. However, her “retirement” was not destined to last. – From Alice Weil: My Notebook and Camera
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
Address (Cape Town): 65 Wale Street, Cape Town Address (Johannesburg): Suite 411 The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Rd, Johannesburg Phone no.: 021 424 3371/082 568 9506 Email: ian@lipmanson.co.za
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Website: www.lipmanson.co.za
BRAND HISTORY
A source of inspiration With its blend of modern materials and aesthetics, Art Deco influenced the world of art and décor (including fashion and furniture) in the 19th century and has retained its popularity through the years. It was a style of the visual arts which was lavish – perhaps a reaction to the austerity of World War I (1914-1918). THE NAME “ART DECO” WAS AN ABBREVIation of “Arts Décoratifs et Industriies Modernes”, an exposition held in Paris in 1925 which represented glamour, luxury and exuberance in an era which has become known as “the Roaring Twenties”. Its influence was seen far afield – in China, Japan, (then) Persia and even Egypt. This style has inspired a group of Swiss watchmakers – Geneva-based Frédérique Constant – to produce a modern-day timepiece which will appeal to the present-day woman, despite its Twenties look. This is an exquisite design featuring a highgrade solid stainless steel case and matching link bracelet with deployment clasp. The dial is white mother-of-pearl with black hands around the inner ring, which is protected by scratchproof glass. The watch has a quartz movement and was assembled entirely by hand. Frédérique Constant was founded by Peter and Aletta Stas in 1988. Their vision was to create a Swiss mechanical watch at an accessible price which could be enjoyed by many. They also produced their first technical smartwatch in 2015, which was powered by the entirely new MTM Swiss Contact technology.
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The following year, the brand integrated with the Japanese Citizen group, creating a Swiss-Japanese partnership for the 21st century. The new watch model is characterised as Art Deco by its distinctive shape and colour, which offer strong visual drama. Above all, it employs modern technology, streamlining forms. Such articles were rarely mass-produced. The movement represented modernism turned into fashion, intended to create sleekness and elegance that symbolised wealth and sophistication. It spread from the decorative arts to interior design and architecture, examples of which are New York’s Rockefeller Centre and Chrysler Building, as well as the Board of Trade in Chicago. It developed into a major style in Western Europe and was particularly prominent in the USA during the 1930s. Among the formative influences of the new movement were Art Nouveau, which preceded it, the Bauhaus movement of the early 20th century (which originated in Germany and eventually morphed into modern art) and Cubism, which began in Paris and marked a departure from existing concepts of painting. Art Deco became the preferred style. Characteristics of Art Deco included nude
female figures, animals, foliage and sunrays in concentrated forms. Jewellers favoured the smooth, polished surfaces of precious metals and steel, glass was bombe and pieces featured strong colours of the popular Ballet Russe. The trend was also adopted by couture designer Paul Poiret. In the architectural field, geometric angularity, smooth surfaces and plain glass distinguished buildings in the new international style, while in the interior design sphere, some of the best-loved designs of Art Deco glassware came from René Lalique. Although Art Deco went out of fashion in most places during World War II, there was a renewed interest in it in the early 1960s, as well as in the early 21st century, and it has continued to be a source of inspiration in fashion and jewellery design since then. Antique specimens often appear at auction sales.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
INTERNATIONAL SEMINAR
CIBJO seminar in Vicenza focuses on responsible sourcing CIBJO’s new Responsible Sourcing Blue Book highlighted a well-attended seminar at the VicenzaOro January jewellery trade show in Vicenza, Italy, on 19 January, which also featured the precious coral sector as a case study for sustainability. THE SEMINAR COMPRISED THE OPENING session of the 21st Symposium of the Federation for European Education in Gemmology (FEEG), which was hosted by the Italian Gemmological Institute. FEEG President Guy Lalous welcomed the delegates, as did Marco Carniello, Director of the Jewellery & Fashion Division of the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), the organiser of the VicenzaOro shows. In his introduction, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, who moderated the opening seminar, said that consumer confidence, without which “the entire premise on which our business is built would be meaningless”, requires more than just the integrity of the product to be maintained. “Over the past 20 years, it’s become increasingly apparent that the ways in which we, the members of the jewellery industry, behave and impact society and the environment are also fundamental components of consumer confidence. We don’t operate in a moral vacuum, where the value of the products we handle is no way connected to the businesses we run. That may have been the case in the distant past, but it’s no longer true – certainly not in the age of the Internet and social media, where a photograph, video or tweet can go viral in a matter of hours,” he stated. Philip Olden, the President of CIBJO’s Responsible Sourcing Commission, provided an overview of the new Responsible Sourcing Blue Book, which was approved by the CIBJO Board of Directors earlier this month. It can be downloaded free of charge from the CIBJO website. Emphasising that the Responsible Sourcing Blue Book does not purport to be a code of practice for which compliance can be certified, nor a chain of custody, Olden said that it is meant to provide guidance and a framework within which all members of the industry can perform responsible sourcing using due diligence, irrespective of their size and type of business. “We believe in the principle of continuous
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
improvement,” he said. “Responsible sourcing is a process that can begin by taking just a few basic steps.” Francesca Marino, CIBJO’s Senior Advisor on CSR, looked at how the implementation of social responsibility practices could change through the introduction of blockchain technology. “Compared with previously used systems, blockchain makes the process of ethically evaluating the behaviour of a company more objective, eliminating the arbitrariness that other methods sometimes involve,” she stated. The second part of the CIBJO seminar shone the spotlight on precious coral, which has been the subject of media attention in recent years, largely as a result of concern about the effects of global warming on ocean life. Providing a gemmological and historical overview of precious coral, Rui Galopim de Carvalho, Vice-President of CIBJO's Coral Commission, explained that it is critical that the eight species of coral which are considered to be precious be differentiated from the thousands of other common coral species. The precious coral species are located below the surface of the sea at depths of 50 m and more, where ocean warming and acidification are not significant factors, he explained. In contrast, many of the common corals, including all reef corals, can be found in shallow waters, where rising temperatures and bleaching sometimes have devastating effects. Research being conducted at scientific institutes around the world, with the support of the CIBJO Coral Commission, is eliciting promising results that could lead to the regrowth and repopulation of common corals affected by global warming, explained Vincenzo Liverino, President of the CIBJO Coral Commission. Described by Cavalieri as the individual who almost single-handedly has restored the position and reputation of precious coral in the marketplace, over the past three years Liverino has used the high
profile of precious coral to raise awareness of the general health of the oceans, encouraging action to be taken to protect the sustainability of this essential source of life and sustenance for the planet. Coral education is a critical part of the process, Liverino stressed. The CIBJO Coral Commission will soon launch an online course about precious coral and common coral. It is also providing assistance to gemmology educational institutes to introduce coral units into their regular programmes. Closing the seminar was Prof Roberto Vona, Dean of the Business Management Department of the University of Naples Federico II. Having long studied the area where business management and entrepreneurship intersect with technology and ethics, he considered how blockchain technology could be applied to managing the coral supply chain, thus providing opportunities to improve the quality and sustainability of the product. “You work in a field where transactions are concluded on an assumption of trust,” he said. “But there are instances where trust is betrayed.” Blockchain could provide an objective and unalterable record of what is known about the product as it moves along the chain of distribution, providing evidence that sustainable practices have been complied with throughout the harvesting, processing and sales process, explained Vona. CIBJO is the international jewellery confederation of national trade organisations. Its purpose is to encourage harmonisation, promote international co-operation in the jewellery industry and consider issues which concern the trade worldwide. CIBJO’s chief mission is to protect consumer confidence in the industry. It is the sole jewellery industry organisation to have Special Consultative Status with the United Nations’ (UN) Economic & Social Council and is a member of the UN Global Compact.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Rado’s HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition In a seamless union of ancient and modern materials, the Rado HyperChrome Chronograph Automatic is now available in a beautifully contrasting bronze and high-tech ceramic construction. Limited to 999 pieces, this exclusive timepiece joins two materials that are perfectly suited for use in watchmaking: bronze – the oldest alloy known to man, which marks the passage of time by developing a rich patina – and high-tech ceramic, which boasts lightness and superior scratch-resistance. The sporty-chic HyperChrome Chronograph is Rado’s signature all-day, every-occasion timepiece for men. In this new model, the 45 mm automatic chronograph retains its scratch-resistant, high-tech ceramic case – here in matt black – but replaces the ceramic bracelet with a supple brown vintage-look leather strap which has a steel folding clasp. It also features side inserts and chronograph pushers crafted in bronze. Rose gold-coloured hands and indexes echo the subtle metallic sheen of the bronze, while a bezel engraved with a tachometric scale provides additional functionality. Its mechanical automatic ETA 2894-2 chronograph movement features 37 jewels, a black oscillating weight, decorated movement and a 42-hour power reserve. Its matt black high-tech ceramic case with monobloc construction features a polished black high-tech ceramic bezel and case-back with sapphire crystal, a bronze (CuSn8) crown and pushers. Its curved sap-
phire crystal case with anti-reflective coating on both sides is water-resistant to 10 bars. Rado, a globally recognised Swiss watch brand that traces its roots to 1917, is famous for its innovative design and visionary use of revolutionary materials to create some of the world’s most durable watches. Ever since its beginnings in Lengnau, Switzerland, it has upheld its philosophy, “If we can imagine it, we can make it”, using only the finest materials in its watches. Besides hardness and scratch-resistance, Rado’s timepieces are known for durability and wearer comfort. Key milestones in the brand’s history include the iconic scratchresistant watch launched in 1962, pioneering high-tech ceramic in watchmaking in the 1980s, the monobloc-injected ceramic case and the introduction of touch technology in a ceramic watch. The brand also pioneered the use of plasma high-tech ceramic. Its unique approach to industrial design has garnered it more than 30 international design prizes.
A service to the industry The River Suze meanders through the St Imier Valley and surrounding countryside in Switzerland, where a group of legendary watch manufactures are situated. Also located there is a professional and private non-profit-making association whose function is to provide its members with a large series of services relating to legal and commercial issues, including policy-making. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry – Fédération de l’Industrie Horlogère Suisse (FH) – has its headquarters in the Germanspeaking town of Biel/Bienne. It represents an authority both in Switzerland and abroad in its spheres of negotiation.
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The history of the FH dates back to 1876, when the International Association of Jura Industries became the Swiss Chamber of Watchmaking & Industries in 1924 for the media and the general public. It currently has more than 500 members. The Swiss reputation for producing quality, high-end watches can be traced back to the Huguenots fleeing persecution in France, who brought their artistry and knowledge to the local trade in Geneva. Switzerland has enjoyed domination of the watch market for more than two centuries, giving “Swiss Made” a new meaning.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Panerai Transat Classique 2019 Xarifa was the first boat to cross the finish line of the Transat Classique 2019, the spectacular transatlantic race for classic and vintage yachts organised by the Atlantic Yacht Club and sponsored by Panarai. The brand’s yacht ambassador, Eilean, crossed the finish line on 27 January, warmly welcomed by all the sailors at Christophe Harbour, St Kitts. Crossing the line in front of Christophe Harbour on 26 January at 3h30’31” (07h30’31” UTC), the 50 m, three-masted schooner Xarifa won the line honours of the Panerai Transat Classique 2019, ahead of Stiren, Coch Y Bondhu and Hilaria. At 08h43’49’’ (13h43’49’’ UTC+1) on 27 January, Eilean, the superb ketch design by the Fife’s shipyard in 1936, crossed the finish line in front of the marina of Christophe Harbour and won fifth place on real time. Under a rising sun and 20 knots of wind, the last miles were completed under mainsail with two reefs and a staysail, offering a beautiful sight. In the
marina, the yacht ambassador of Panerai also received a warm welcome, with all the sailors offering to help pull on the mooring ropes – a sign of strong respect, conviviality and solidarity among sea-goers. In the afternoon, the race committee announced the finish of Lys, the yacht of Philippe Monnet with his highlander crew. Eilean will now spend a few weeks in the Caribbean, where she will be available for vis-
its by appointment to showcase the stunning work carried out by the shipwrights aboard this marvellous example of maritime craftsmanship, offering a unique glimpse into the Panerai universe. To celebrate the most extreme classic race in the world, Panerai has created the Luminor Regatta Transat Classique (PAM00956), an exclusive special edition of 150 examples of the chronograph with a reverse count-down mechanism for indicating the moments preceding the start of a race with the greatest accuracy. Other functions and features enhance this precision instrument, making it the perfect companion for life at sea: the classic Panerai device protecting the winding crown, which helps to ensure the watch’s water-resistance to 10 bars; the fly-back chronograph with two counters for measuring two partial times in quick succession; the tachymeter scale in knots on the flange for calculating the speed of the boat; the power reserve of three days, covering the requirements of a long weekend at sea, and the device for zeroing the seconds hand to achieve perfect synchronisation. This powerful concentration of design and technology, available exclusively in Panerai boutiques throughout the world, is the result of the brand’s expertise in high-quality sports watchmaking. Founded in Florence in 1860 as a workshop, shop and school of watchmaking, for many decades Panerai supplied the Italian Navy – particularly its diving corps – with precision instruments. The designs it developed, including the Luminor and Radiomir, were covered by the Military Secrets Act for many years and were launched on the international market only after the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997. Today Panerai develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture. The latter are a seamless melding of Italian designing flair and history with Swiss horological expertise.
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted The Octo Finissimo, with the world’s thinnest automatic movement, is now available in a subtle, sandblasted finish over steel that enhances the modern elegance of its design. The sandblasting technique tones down the gleam of the metal with a matt-style approach, giving the rhodium-plated steel version an elegant, silky shimmer. The finish is also applied to the bracelet links, which are as supple as leather and taper in size from the 40 mm case to the clasp. The Octo Finissimo Automatic, already a cult favourite, is driven by the world’s thinnest automatic movement, the Bulgari BVL Calibre 138 Finissimo.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
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LITTLE GEMS
who was aware of the state of the industry in the USA due to the lack of expertise and decided to restore the public’s trust. With a long-term project in mind, he completed a correspondence course from Great Britain’s National Association of Goldsmiths and, on his return to Los Angeles, launched his own preliminary certified course in gemmology. His aim was that the graduates would, in turn, train and certify other jewellers, eventually forming a national guild of accredited jewellers. Today the GIA offers several corporate programmes and courses in the art of jewellery manufacture as part of its educational facilities, in collaboration with trade organisations worldwide. It has one campus in Carlsbad, California and another in New York, both running on-campus accredited courses in at least 10 subjects, which include graduation in gemmology, diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, design and technology, and comprehensive CAD/CAM. The world-renowned Liddi-coat Library at its headquarters in Carlsbad is the premier source of gemmological knowledge. Liddicoat was a gemmologist whose knowledge of diamond quality grading contributed greatly to gem identification. He was Chairman of the GIA’s Board of Governors and died in 2002. Among the milestones of the GIA’s achievements was a patented loupe with triple-appliance lenses, a microscope which allowed gemmologists to view the inside of gemstones accurately, a diamond grading system based on Shipley’s four Cs (cut, clarity, colour and carat weight), the first diamond grading reports to be accepted as an international benchmark, a method to determine whether a diamond has been irradiated, and the publishing of a diamond dictionary which has become an international reference. The organisation also introduced a synthetic diamond grading report. Current research is focused on developing methods to accurately identify and categorise gems, in line with the growing demand of those buying stones of a significant size for reports. The reports on coloured stones may include a comment about treatments detected and, in the case of rubies, emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines, an opinion on their country of origin. The organisation also designs and manufactures professional equipment for grading and identifying diamonds and other gemstones, as well as determining their physical and optical properties under microscopic analysis.
Disclosing the fakes Because diamonds are formed deep within the earth under extreme pressure, they often contain unique “birthmarks” known as “inclusions” or blemishes. Each stone is unique and although very few are absolutely perfect, their value is not affected. This has resulted in the formation of an organisation which issues information reflecting clarity. Alice Weil explains its importance. TESTING LOOSE OR MOUNTed gemstones for their clarity is a service provided by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), whose mission is to provide all buyers and setters of gemstones with a minimum standard of the quality of their purchased product. Most jewellers have never seen a stone which is absolutely flawless under magnification. Diamond clarity refers to the absence of inclusions and blemishes. Based on the GIA’s international grading system which reflects 11 grades, the clarity scale of diamonds ranges from flawless (FL) to those with obvious inclusions (3). Most diamonds fall into the V (Very
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Slightly Included) category, which indicates minor inclusions that could affect transparency and brilliance. Stones showing hardly any inclusions fall into the Very Very Slightly Included (VVS) category. Founded in 1931, GIA also provides educational programmes. Through its own gem identification research and library, it offers a resource of gem and jewellery information to the trade, the public and worldwide media outlets. The first GIA laboratory was established in Los Angeles and transformed the industry by providing a certified gemmologist professional design and legitimisation of gemmology as a recognised science. The project was originally instigated in the 1820s by Robert Shipley, a successful jeweller
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2019
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