SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • March 2022 by Isikhova Media

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In March 2020, it’s Managing Director Brenda Rosenthal secured the business from its overseas shareholders and, for the past two years, it is proud to be a 100% South African-owned business. “We are here to serve the gems and jewellery industry and above all, the consumer,” says Rosenthal. “All our services are done in the laboratory and done carefully, timeously and with efficiency.”

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LET’S BACK LOCAL SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

10. NEWS • JCSA Jewellery Pop-Up Show during Mother’s Day week • Vote for SAJN’s 2021 Cover of the Year and win • VO’Clock Privé, the new watch lounge at VicenzaOro • Jewellex365 Online B2B Hub to launch this year • GIA examines world-record laboratory-grown diamond • Industry webinar explores online decision-making instruments • Rolex Explorer returns to original 1953 size

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

• R2 circulation coin wins esteemed international award

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

• GIA reveals 2021 Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award recipient

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

• Scientists report breakthrough in precious coral traceability • A unique experience during Geneva Watch Week 2022

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

14. SA’S JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING, REFINING AND DIAMOND HUB savvy thinkers smart doers together people

Today, three office parks in particular are home to the majority of Gauteng’s industry players: The Paragons Buildings 1 and 2 in Bedfordview, 27 Ridge Road in Parktown and 3/5 Sturdee Avenue in Rosebank.

33 19. DESIGN TO DELIVERY Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both private clients and the trade. SAJN spoke to owner and designer Johann Claassens about its offerings.

30. GAUTENG POSITIONED AS A JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING HUB The R237 million construction project for the long-awaited Jewellery Manufacturing Precinct broke ground in September 2015. A project of the Gauteng Growth and Development Agency and part of the Gauteng Industrial Development Zone, the site’s purpose is to be a mineral beneficiation hub where raw materials are processed into jewellery for both local and international markets.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

MARCH 2022

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The year 2021 showed a rise in the price of 89% of all Fancy Colour categories, the Fancy Colour Research Foundation has revealed.

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40. PLATINUMABC LAUNCHED

33. A DARK GREEN GEM WITH RED SPLATTERS You have heard of the March birthstone, aquamarine, but did you know that there were actually two gems associated with that month? Bloodstone, also known as heliotrope, is the traditional, as well as the alternative modern birthstone for March and is a form of the abundant mineral quartz.

Platinum Guild International is a marketing organisation which was created in 1975 with the vision of developing the global platinum jewellery market as a new demand source for the metal. It has now launched PlatinumABC, which offers a platform for creativity within the jewellery industry covering design and technology.

42. LITTLE GEMS: A GEM OF A MUSEUM Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

On the cover Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both private clients and the trade. Established in 2008 by Johann Claassens and his wife Suvette, it is a business built on passion and dedication to creating the unforgettable. Piccolo does it all – or anything and everything in between, from CAD designs using the latest technology, to 3D wax models for which it has a number of machines that it updates regularly. Piccolo casts in platinum, all kinds of gold alloys – especially high palladium, white gold alloys and silver. It also does semi-finishes (finishing pieces to a certain point), as well as total finishes (where jewellers can collect the finished pieces from them). In addition, Piccolo does stone setting for the trade. For more information, contact Piccolo on e-mail: info@piccolo-jewellery. co.za or tel: 083-396-6178.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

SAJN | EDITOR’S NOTE

note

Editor’s

my first visit there almost 17 years ago. I drove with our then publisher to conduct an interview for SAJN in the mega-centre. I had no idea what to expect: all I knew was that it was the heart of our local industry and home to the Jewellery Council of SA, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA, the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator and the State Diamond Trader. “Jewel City” sounded so glamorous. However, shrouded in mystery, buried deep in Johannesburg’s central business district, there was nothing glamorous about Jewel City’s exterior. I left the building that day wondering how many people outside our industry actually knew the value and beauty of what that dreary building contained. This issue also features the Jewellery Manufacturing Precinct (JMP) near OR Tambo

This year, we have decided to have three special editions dedicated to the main trading metropoli of our industry. This first issue is dedicated to Gauteng, SA’s primary jewellery manufacturing and diamond trading hub, with SAJN’s June edition to be devoted to Cape Town and the October issue devoted to Durban. SA’s manufacturing hub for the gem and jewellery industry is largely concentrated in Gauteng, specifically Johannesburg. Three buildings, in particular, are home to the majority of the province’s industry players: The Paragon Building in the heart of Bedfordview, 27 Ridge Road in Parktown and 3/5 Sturdee Avenue in Rosebank. Prior to these buildings housing the majority of the trade’s players, Jewel City was where our industry was based. I fondly remember

International Airport, where the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator and the State Diamond Trader have already taken occupancy. The JMP, a project of the Gauteng Growth and Development Agency and part of the Gauteng Industrial Development Zone, is a clustered environment that makes provision not only for manufacturers, but also for relevant support agencies and service enterprises. The site’s purpose is to be a mineral beneficiation hub where raw materials are processed into jewellery for both local and international markets. I am hopeful that this precinct will succeed in its purpose, because only with the full support of our government will our industry be able to thrive.

Adri Viviers

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SAJN | NEWS

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• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

NeverNoT

• What jewellers will be talking about this year

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

• Diamond market set for full recovery by 2024

• Hanli Smit on photographing jewellery

• Pearl quality 101

• All that glitters: A look at illicit gold networks

• De Beers announces 12 ambitious 2030 goals

• From humble beginnings to bespoke jewellery designer

• A gemstone from the stars

• CoNNect with customers and build your brand

• How to market across generations

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• Talking coloured gemstones with Kaylan Khourie • Is your jewellery brand really responsible? • The allure of alexandrite

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• Molto bene [well done], Vicenzaoro!

• Indian jewellery’s modern transformation

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• SA Mint launches Big Five Series II

• Winners of Shining Light Awards unveiled

• Fit for a queen

• Strategies to emerge from a pandemic • The importance of a digital presence

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SAJN’s 2021

‘Cover of the Year’

HOW IT WORKS Select your cover choice by emailing sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za with the letter featured above your selection. Remember to state ‘SAJN Cover of the Year’ in the subject line. WHAT THE ‘WIN’ IS! The cover advertiser receiving the most votes will win a free advertisement in SAJN!*

SA Jewellery News is thrilled to announce the launch of its annual ‘Cover of the Year’ competition. And there are TWO ‘wins’ too!

THERE’S ANOTHER WIN! All votes will go into a draw to stand a chance of winning an exciting prize! CLOSING DATE 30 APRIL 2022 *(T&Cs Apply)

VOTE FOR SAJN’S 2021 COVER OF THE YEAR AND WIN Vote for SA Jewellery News’s 2021 Cover of the Year and win – two ways! Select your cover choice by e-mailing: sajewellerynews@isikhova. co.za with the letter featured above your selection. Remember to state “SAJN Cover of the Year” in the subject line. The cover advertiser receiving the most votes will win a free advertisement in SAJN. Voters will also stand a chance to win. All votes will go into a draw to stand a chance of winning an exciting prize. Voting closes on 30 April 2022.

JCSA JEWELLERY POP-UP SHOW DURING MOTHER’S DAY WEEK For the first time ever, the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is offering its members the opportunity to sell jewellery directly to consumers during Mother’s Day week in May. Members can exhibit at the JCSA Jewellery Pop-Up Show in the Eastgate Shopping Centre, Johannesburg, from just R1 999 (member rate per day) for five days. Only 18 spaces are available and stands will be allocated on a first-come-first-served basis. “This is a fantastic marketing opportunity for jewellery retailers, manufacturing retailers, art and contemporary jewellers,” says Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO. “The Eastgate Shopping Centre averages 1,2 million monthly shoppers and is one of Africa’s most prestigious shopping centres. It’s also home to more than 300 local and international retailers.” To book a space or for more information, members can contact Lloyd on tel: 082-456-5558, e-mail: lornal@jewellery. org.za or Elsa da Silva on tel: 082-214-0028, e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

R2 CIRCULATION COIN WINS ESTEEMED INTERNATIONAL AWARD The “25 Years of Constitutional Democracy, Freedom and Security of the Person” R2 circulation coin has received the Best Circulation Coin Award. Issued by the South African Mint

together with the South African Reserve Bank, the SA25 commemoration circulation coin received the award in the 2022 International Coin of the Year programme.

GIA REVEALS 2021 GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI FOUNDATION AWARD RECIPIENT The fifth annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewellery Design was presented on 4 February to GIA graduate Meghan Simmons. The competition – open to students who successfully completed the GIA Jewellery Design course in 2021 – recognises artistic excellence in jewellery design. More than 80 students from around the world competed to be finalists for the 2021 Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award. “I was inspired by the abstract artist Wassily Kandinsky. This earring design explores the use of line and shape, seeking to achieve a sense of balance through divergence,” said Simmons. The winning design played with the use of shapes using gold, diamonds and blue sapphires. Simmons was one of 11 finalists whose hand-rendered designs were judged by a com-

mittee of gem and jewellery experts including Alishan Halebian, Alishan Jewelry; Victoria Gomelsky, Editor-in-Chief of JCK magazine; Douglas Hucker, CEO of AGTA; Remy Rotenier, Remy Rotenier Jewelry and Shelly Sergent, Somewhere In the Rainbow. The judges weighed the aesthetic appeal of each design and how well each applied the techniques the students learnt at GIA. The finalists’ designs were on display and the recipient of the award was announced at the annual GIA alumni event held during the AGTA Gem Fair. “This competition was born out of the life and work of Gianmaria Buccellati. We’re sure this year’s winner, Meghan Simmons, will enjoy her award, a week in Italy beginning in Florence, then on to Venice with the trip ending in Milan,” said Larry French, Chief Officer: North Ameri-

ca Strategies at the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation. “We congratulate not only all the students who participated in this year’s design competition, but also the talented instructors from GIA who guided the students on this beautiful art. We hope that all the designers who participated will continue to grow in their art so that it becomes a way of life, as it was for Gianmaria.” The award was created in partnership with the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation in 2018 to recognise outstanding talent in design among GIA students globally. The 2022 Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewellery Design competition is underway and open to students in GIA’s Jewellery Design course who meet the eligibility requirements. For more information, visit GIA.edu/buccellatifoundation-award-jewelry-design.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

THE MARKET LEADERS – DISTRIBUTING MOISSANITE SINCE 1999 Where you can buy with absolute conﬁdence

Now, new generation, premier quality lab grown moissanite brought to you by The Market Leaders, Moissanite SA™ Majestic Moissanite™ is available exclusively in colourless and near colourless grades, and with the latest lab grown crystal technology, the fire, brilliance and clarity is exceptional. Simplicity in pricing, priced in USD per carat (and ZAR) and at competitive pricing. We were the first to bring moissanite to the South African market in 1999. Now, in addition to lab grown Charles & Colvard moissanite, we now proudly distribute lab grown Majestic Moissanite™ All Majestic Moissanite™ stones selected for sale through Moissanite SA™ are created from amongst the best SiC premier quality and top-grade crystals available. Majestic Moissanite™ gemstones from 5.0mm up are laser engraved with the letters ‘MM’, a unique number and come with a certificate and lifetime warranty. Majestic Moissanite™ is available in the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Europe and many other countries.

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VO’CLOCK PRIVÉ, THE NEW WATCH LOUNGE AT VICENZAORO A new watch lounge will be introduced at VicenzaOro in March. VO’Clock Privé will host some of the most prominent names in watchmaking, including luxury, global and independent brands, in elegant lounges in the foyer on the first floor of the Vicenza Expo Centre from 18-20 March, in a setting reserved for enthusiasts, the press and traders. It will be an opportunity not only to admire, see and touch the products being previewed, but also to talk and interact. “The long history of watchmaking is reaching its peak in terms of economic valuation, experiencing a steady growth trend in recent years that culminated in a record 2021 with a

decisive upswing in Swiss watch exports,” say fair organisers the Italian Exhibition Group. “In October 2021, Swiss timepiece exports amounted to CHF2,1 billion [about €2 billion at the current exchange rate], up 4,8% from the same month in 2019 and the highest monthly figure in seven years. Moreover, exports in 2021 are estimated to have surpassed those of 2014, the industry’s golden year.” Training sessions with authoritative Italian and foreign institutions will also be offered during March’s VicenzaOro, starting with classes organised by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which will be holding two sessions to explore the mechanisms, chronography,

tourbillon and perpetual calendar. These will be followed by sessions with trainers from the CAPAC watchmaking school in Milan to learn the basics of mechanical watchmaking and acquire the skills to assemble and dismantle a mechanical movement directly in the classroom.

INDUSTRY WEBINAR EXPLORES ONLINE DECISION-MAKING INSTRUMENTS

measurable market trends, reducing the level of business risk and enabling companies to take advantage of sales opportunities of which they may not have been aware earlier. CIBJO’s Jewellery Industry Voices webinar in February focused on the growing use of statistical analysis in the jewellery and gemstone business, as well as the new tools and services which are available. It was entitled “DataDriven: Rethinking Decision-Making in the Gem and Jewellery Business”. The webinar panel included Mahiar Borhanjoo, CEO of UNI Diamonds, a data and technology company serving the international

diamond industry; Sophie Kravchenko, Senior Manager at Bain & Co in Moscow, who is part of the unit that annually conducts the consulting company’s widely-followed review of the diamond business; Julie Yoakum, a Senior Vice-President and Chief Merchandising Officer at Helzberg Diamonds, a Berkshire Hathaway company and one of the largest jewellery retailers in the USA and Raj Mehta, a Director at Rosy Blue, one of the world’s largest manufacturers and suppliers of diamonds. The seminar was co-moderated by Edward Johnson and Steven Benson, while CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri welcomed participants.

A new category of jewellery and gemstone companies, conducting sales online and sometimes aggregating inventory from multiple suppliers, is in possession of massive pools of accurate data on which statistically significant analyses can be conducted. What this means is that decisions can increasingly be based on

SCIENTISTS REPORT BREAKTHROUGH IN PRECIOUS CORAL TRACEABILITY An international research group led by scientists from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF and the University of Zurich’s Institute of Forensic Medicine has reported a breakthrough in precious coral jewellery traceability, through the use of a novel forensically validated genetic technique called Coral-ID. The results of its research have been published in the journal Forensic Science International: Genetics. Coral-ID is the first reliable and forensically validated method to scientifically identify corals using quasi non-destructive sampling, so that species protected by the Convention on the International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES) can be distinguished from their nonprotected counterparts. Four precious coral species used in the jewellery trade are listed in Appendix III of CITES and they require species-specific and country-of-origin documentation when being traded and transported across international

borders. For the customs authorities that must check the merchandise, the colour of a coral specimen has to date been the main indicator for ascertaining its biological species identity. However, different coral species can have similar colour ranges and this has frequently caused difficulties when trying to conclusively identify the specific species of coral contained in a jewellery item. The Coral-ID method was tested on a realworld set of samples, comprised of 20 coral-set items, seized between 2009 and 2017 by the Swiss customs authorities, because they lacked valid CITES documentation. Multiple species were found among corals of similar appearance, highlighting the importance of using the new forensic Coral-ID method, which is to avoid misidentification of CITES-listed species as nonCITES listed species, and vice versa. Three of the 20 tested samples were shown to be of species that have not previously been

associated with precious coral in the jewellery trade. This further underscores the need for additional scientific research. “The research shows the importance of carrying out fundamental science and peerreviewed research on raw materials used in the jewellery industry. Genetic analysis of precious corals is clearly a very useful tool to achieve greater transparency in the trade,” said Dr Michael S Krzemnicki, Director of SSEF. Precious coral identification services are being offered by SSEF in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine at the University of Zurich, which is one of Switzerland’s leading forensic institutes. All analyses are carried out in laboratory facilities accredited according to ISO 17025 standards.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

NEWS | SAJN

GIA EXAMINES WORLD-RECORD LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMOND Scientists at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently examined the largest known laboratory-grown diamond produced by the chemical vapour deposition (CVD) method. The examination determined that the 16,41ct princess-cut diamond from the Shanghai Zhengshi Technology Co Ltd had the observable characteristics of a diamond produced by the CVD method. Detailed spectroscopic readings confirmed that there was no post-growth treatment to improve the shade of the G colour, VVS2 clarity man-made diamond. “The first CVD diamond I examined in 2003 was a 0,23ct pear shape, with clear brown colour,” says Dr Wuyi Wang, GIA Vice-President of Research and Development, who examined the new record-sized CVD diamond. “This 16,41ct laboratory-grown stone demonstrates the advances in CVD growth technology. The achievement has important implications for the

many scientific and industrial applications for high-quality laboratory-grown diamonds.” “The GIA has examined thousands of laboratory-grown diamonds since the first gemmological description of them by Robert Crowningshield in 1971,” says Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. “In the decades since then, we’ve shared the results of our detailed research. This is an important aspect of our consumer protection mission.” After the stone had been examined by GIA scientists, the institute’s experts graded it using their standard rigorous process for laboratorygrown diamonds, issuing GIA LaboratoryGrown Diamond Report No 2225246686. A brief report authored by Wang and GIA research associates Stephanie Persaud and Elina Myagkaya is available on the institute’s website: https://www.gia.edu.

JEWELLEX365 ONLINE B2B HUB TO LAUNCH THIS YEAR The JCSA has announced that the long-awaited Jewellex365 Online B2B Hub will be launched on 1 May. This online virtual platform will connect manufacturers, wholesalers, importers, suppliers and service providers with the retail market. “The Jewellex365 Online B2B Hub will allow exhibitors to showcase their products and services to retailers 365 days per year, 24 hours per day,” says Lorna Lloyd, the JCSA’s CEO. “The council’s here to make our industry the benchmark for the 21st century.” Further details, including a demonstration site, costs and application forms, will be communicated by the JCSA in due course. “The success of your business is the council’s success, so be sure to book your space before 1 May,” urges Lloyd.

ROLEX EXPLORER RETURNS TO ORIGINAL 1953 SIZE Presented in 1953, the Explorer is emblematic of the close ties between Rolex and exploration. In the 1930s, the brand began to equip numerous Himalayan expeditions with Oyster watches. Among these was the group of whom Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were part when they became the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest, at 8 848 m. At 36 mm, the newest Oyster Perpetual Explorer returns to the size of the original model launched in 1953. The new-generation Explorer was released in a yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow gold). The black dial, now lacquered, bears the index hour-markers and emblematic 3, 6 and 9 numerals which are the cornerstones

of the model’s personality, evoking the determination and spirit of adventure. The new-generation Explorer’s Chromalight display is particularly impressive. In dark conditions, the intensity of the blue glow emitted by the hour-markers and hands now lasts longer, thanks to the innovative and exclusive luminescent material with which they are filled or coated. In daylight, these display elements also have a brighter white hue. The new-generation Explorer is equipped with calibre 3230, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer carries Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE DURING GENEVA WATCH WEEK 2022 Created by independents, for independents, BARTON7 will be the showcase for eight Haute Horlogerie brands who will be coming together under the banner of Independence from 30 March to 5 April 2022. “We are first and foremost craftspeople-entrepreneurs,” says Marco Borraccino, Designer CEO and Creative Director of Singer Reimagined, initiator of the BARTON7 experience. “Creative, curious and always looking for better solutions to old and new challenges. This mindset is behind our desire to get together and create a place that speaks to the spirit we all share. “We create timepieces that reflect a unique aesthetic, not just because they’re produced in

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

small series or even made-to-measure, but also because they come from creators who defend the art of watchmaking in all its audacity, craftsmanship and engineering mastery. At the heart of what we do is the human element, and this is precisely what our customers appreciate. BARTON7 expresses who and what we are: grounded, driven, supportive of each other and linked by the simple pleasure of sharing and being together.” BARTON7 is a special venue accessible to the general public for networking and connecting with professionals. It is a place for showcasing new creations and for generating new opportunities. It is

also a place that provides plenty of freedom of expression in an elegant setting. “Cool and connected, a setting that bridges watchmaking art, creativity and craftsmanship in a relaxed atmosphere open to business,” says Borraccino. Each brand will be hosting clients and the media in dedicated spaces ranging from 5-40 m². Common areas include with a bar, catering, video-conferencing rooms, sofas and natural light situated at the corner of the Quai du Mont-Blanc. The eight independent brands who will be showcasing their timepieces in the Swiss Independent Watchmaking showroom during Geneva Watch Week will be revealed shortly.

SAJN | GAUTENG: INDUSTRY CENTRE

SA’s jewellery manufacturing, refining and diamond hub In its heyday, Jewel City was home to over 300 diamond dealers and jewellery manufacturers. Today, three office parks – in Bedfordview, Rosebank and Parktown – are home to the majority of Gauteng’s industry players. CHARACTERISED BY ITS WIDE AND WALKABLE central avenue on Fox Street, bounded by colourful, cleverly upgraded previously commercial buildings which have been transformed into residential accommodation, the new Jewel City precinct in Johannesburg’s CBD hosts a mix of mainstream commercial tenants such as Clicks, Shoprite and McDonald’s. It opens up key pedestrian access along Fox Street from vibrant Maboneng

to the Absa Towers financial precinct, an area that was not previously easy to traverse safely on foot, while also bringing to market hundreds of new apartments for those who live and work in the city. Looking at the modern, new Jewel City Precinct with its thriving neighbourhood and vibrant public space, it is hard to imagine that not too long ago, this iconic area housed the majority of Johannesburg’s diamond dealers and jewellery manufacturers. In its heyday as the jewellery industry’s most significant precinct, over 300 diamond dealers and jewellery manufacturers, the Jewellery Council, the Diamond Dealers’ Club and the State Diamond Trader were all housed in buildings covering six city blocks, bounded by Commissioner and Main Streets in the north and south, and Berea and Philip Streets in the east and west, with the entrance in Main Street. About R7 billion changed hands each year in the precinct. Gems were received and processed at Jewel City from Angola, the Democratic

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

The Paragon Buildings 1 and 2 Situated in Kramer Road in the heart of Bedfordview, the Paragon Buildings 1 and 2 are also known as The Diamond Centre, as all companies housed by the two buildings operate in the diamond and/or jewellery industry. The building offers state-of-the-art security which includes 24-hour access-controlled security, CCTV cameras, electric fencing and armed guards patrolling the property. It is conveniently located near amenities which include the Nicol Hotel, St Benedict’s College and Bedford Village. EGL South Africa is one of the companies located in The Paragon 1. “We’ve just renewed our lease, as we’re very happy and feel secure and safe here,” says Managing Director Brenda Rosenthal. “There’s a sense of camaraderie and community here, as everyone operates in the industry – whether it’s as a diamond grading laboratory, a dealer, a jewellery manufacturer or a polishing factory. People from all the various industry sectors are located here, which is really nice.”

Ridge Road

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Republic of Congo, Botswana and numerous other countries. Visitors passed through x-ray scanners at the photograph identification entry point. There was parking for about 137 vehicles for the more than 500 daily visitors. However, as talks began of Jewel City becoming one of the biggest new Jo’burg city centre development projects in recent years, those with their diamond and jewellery businesses operating from the precinct had to start looking for office space elsewhere. Today, three office parks in particular are home to the majority of Gauteng’s industry players: The Paragons Buildings 1 and 2 in Bedfordview, 27 Ridge Road in Parktown and 3/5 Sturdee Avenue in Rosebank.

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GAUTENG: INDUSTRY CENTRE | SAJN

The Hamlet

27 Ridge Road 27 Ridge Road in Parktown is a well-maintained office park within the Johannesburg region. Boasting high-level security and views over the leafy Parktown suburb, it is home to a large number of companies which operate within the jewellery and diamond industry, including jew-

(Above, right and left): The offices of the JCSA are situated at the Hamlet at 27 Ridge Road.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

ellery manufacturers, wholesalers and diamond dealers. Also situated on the same premises at 27 Ridge Road, but in The Hamlet, are the offices of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA). The mansions of Parktown are an important part of the history of the city of Johannesburg. They were the homes of the Randlords, accountants, military personnel and other influential residents of early Johannesburg, dating back as early as the 1890s. The Hamlet is one such house.

No 3/5 Sturdee Avenue Known as The Rosebank Diamond Hub, 3/5 Sturdee Avenue is predominantly home to diamond dealers and jewellery manufacturers. A vibrant, multi-cultural district, business node and tourist attraction, Rosebank is one of a kind in that it has effectively combined a successful commercial node within a pleasant working, shopping and entertainment environment. The Rosebank Diamond Hub boasts state-of-theart security and is also home to the Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA, whose membership comprises almost 200 of SA’s leading diamond manufacturers, diamond and precious stone dealers, and jewellers. Other office parks and buildings in Gauteng which are of significance to the diamond and jewellery industry in SA include Oxford Parks and Metal Box.

Redefine Properties

SAJN | GAUTENG: INDUSTRY CENTRE

Oxford Parks At the end of last year, CEO Mark Cutifani and Group Director Nolitha Fakude, both of Anglo American in SA, together with Tony O’Neill, Group Director: Technical and Sustainability and CEO Bruce Cleaver – both of the De Beers Group – officially opened the 144 Oxford building – the new headquarters of both organisations in this country. Designed by Paragon Architects, the building constitutes a bespoke shape wrapped in high-performance glazed façades, which mirror the bustling traffic on Oxford Road, to the west of the development.

Paragon Group

No 3/5 Sturdee Avenue

Metal Box Home to Isikhova Media, publisher of industry publications SA Jewellery News, Jewellery Biz-News, African Odyssey, SAJN’s seasonal Connect directory and JZA, SA’s first and only dedicated online consumer retail jewellery magazine, Metal Box is a prominent building within the heart of Auckland Park. The 25 Owl Street high-rise building has earned its reputation as an icon due to its high visibility and central location.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

Oxford Parks

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Rand Refinery Established by the Chamber of Mines of SA in 1920, Rand Refinery is one of the largest integrated single-site precious metals refining and smelting complexes in the world. Its refinery is located in Germiston. Rand Refinery has a well-established Gold Zone on its premises, on which it hosts the Jewellery Village. The aim of the Jewellery Village is to create an environment that will enable local communities to participate in skills development, jewellery design and manufacturing. Jewellery benefactors of this village include the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project, Cornerstone Creations, Lashongwe Design, NQ Jewellers and Tirang Creations.

Oxford Parks

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

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• Diamonds in demand among millennials, Gen Z • Challenges faced by the jewellery and insurance industries • From side-hustle to main hustle

NeverNoT

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AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

• Diamond market set for full recovery by 2024 • De Beers announces 12 ambitious 2030 goals

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• Timeless time-tellers

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• Marking time with Capetonian watchmaker Stuart Swan

• The allure of alexandrite

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• A ﬁne digital presentation from the luxury brands of Switzerland

• Is your jewellery brand really responsible?

- TWO WAYS!

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• Talking coloured gemstones with Kaylan Khourie

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Responsibly sourced Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. Championing transparency and trust in the coloured gemstone industry.

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The home of precious metals

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• PlatAfrica 2021: the winners of Metamorphosis

• 2021 highlights and hopes for next year

• Molto bene [well done], Vicenzaoro!

• Indian jewellery’s modern transformation

• Versatile white metals

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• Strategies to emerge from a pandemic

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SAJN’s 2021

‘Cover of the Year’

• Winners of Shining Light Awards unveiled

• Fit for a queen

SA Jewellery News is thrilled to announce the launch of its annual ‘Cover of the Year’ competition. And there are TWO ‘wins’ too!

THERE’S ANOTHER WIN! All votes will go into a draw to stand a chance of winning an exciting prize! CLOSING DATE 30 APRIL 2022 *(T&Cs Apply)

JEWELLERY DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING | SAJN

Design to delivery

Tell us about Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery It was established in 2008 by my wife Suvette and me. It’s a business built on passion and dedication to creating the unforgettable. We design and manufacture to suit our clientele’s requirements and budget, while guiding them through all the various steps of selection and decision-making. We absolutely love what we do because the world of art, combined with modern technology, brings new and exciting challenges every day which are truly satisfying and rewarding. How big is the Piccolo team? We’re a small, but hard-working and passionate team comprising Suvette, Christian and me. I do all Piccolo’s custom designs using modern computer-aided design [CAD] programs. Christian’s also been doing design work for us for about three years and helps out when

I’m engaged in too much work. In addition, he does all the technical work, such as 3D wax printing up to and including metal preparation and casting. Suvette, who holds a BTech and taught jewellery design and manufacturing for five years, does all our benchwork and finishing. Each of us has a very fine eye for detail and between us, we have more than 28 years of industry experience. Do you only do private commissions? Private commissions are only one aspect of our business; we also offer services to the trade. Whether it’s a private client, design work for large jewellery collections or just a few castings, we take the same care to ensure that everything’s supplied to the same high standard. What are some of the services you offer the trade? We can do it all – or anything and everything in between. We do CAD designs using the latest technology, as well as 3D wax models, for

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both private clients and the trade. SAJN spoke to owner and designer Johann Claassens about its offerings. piece entitled Inside Out, a metamorphosis of 187 sparkling diamonds in a simplistic, closed pendant which symbolises the inspiration that comes from within.

which we have a number of machines that we update regularly. We cast in platinum, all kinds of gold alloys – especially high palladium and white gold alloys – and silver. We also do semifinishes (finishing pieces to a certain point) and total finishes (where jewellers can collect the finished pieces from us). In addition, we do stone setting for the trade. Where do you source your materials? We have a very close working relationship with Cape Precious Metals. We source all our precious metals only from there, as we know that it operates within a socially responsible and sustainable business framework backed up by internationally recognised accreditation. What has been a career highlight for you? Although I’ve helped several entrants in the past with the design and creation of their pieces for the jewellery design and manufacturing competition PlatAfrica, coming third myself in the professional category in last year’s competition was certainly a highlight. It was for my

What sets Piccolo apart from other manufacturing jewellers? With a client base of private customers, designers, makers, retailers and manufacturers, we offer the same level of confidentiality and attention to detail to all. We strive to provide the highest quality and exemplary service. Drawn from a variety of skills and backgrounds, and constantly developing those skills through modern technology, we pride ourselves on the challenge of guiding our clients and giving them exactly what they want. Over the past 10 years, we’ve done a lot of research and development of platinum castings because of the huge demand for it. Most people in our industry source it out to casting houses and struggle to find someone who can do it well. We’re very proud of the work we do and have complete confidence in the platinum castings which we supply to more than 50 jewellers all over the country. We encourage the industry to give our services a try, especially when it comes to platinum. Whether it’s for large and bulky rings or very fine and delicate earrings, we guarantee a casting that requires very little finishing and time, from when you collect your castings from us until you deliver the finished product to your client.

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

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3. JEWELLERY THROUGH THE AGES 10. ART DECO PERIOD 1918 - 1939 The style of jewellery that dominated the period between the two World Wars is known as Art Deco. WWI profoundly changed the role of women in society. During the war, they adopted practical styles of long pants and close-cropped hair and became fully emancipated. Thereafter, these trends continued, but women of the 1920s wanted to feel sexy again and started to wear heavy make-up, bright red lipstick and flowing, low-cut dresses. Jewellery that suited these dresses were yards of cultured or imitation pearls, beads and long chains of gold or gilt metal. Several bangles were worn on one arm and pendants were worn down the back, rather than in front. The first cultured pearls from Mikimoto appeared on the market in 1921. Wristwatches became a fashionable item for active and sporty ladies. The discovery of the Tomb of Tutenkhamun in 1922 inspired designers and sphinxes, pyramids, lotus flowers and scarabs became motifs in jewellery. Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels all incorporated these designs in their production. Fascination with the Orient led to the use of less durable lacquer (instead of enamel) and the introduction of carved precious stones from India. The worldwide depression which followed the Wall Street crash of 1929 changed the way people dressed, their jewels and their lifestyles. After the Roaring Twenties, a sense of moderation set in and jewellery designs became more bold and angular. Gone were the curves and the strings of colourful precious stones. Jewellery from the 30s is characterised by large geometric designs, pavéd with small diamonds of different cuts, often set in platinum or other white precious metals and plated with rhodium. Such jewellery was finely crafted, even the costume pieces, and occasionally set with a centre stone of ruby, sapphire or emerald. The pavé-set diamond wristwatch in platinum reached all-time popularity. In the USA, Art Deco jewellery remained more colourful and a style created by Cartier as Tutti Frutti (“fruit salad jewellery”) became popular. A common theme was movement and motifs such as trains, airplanes, ocean liners and running greyhounds were used. For the first time, costume jewellery became as important as fine jewellery. A new plastic, named bakelite, was used to produce bright, colourful bangles, rings and beads. Just before the outbreak of WWII, the popularity of platinum and other white metals waned and yellow gold designs came back into fashion. The production of finely crafted vanity cases, cigarette cases and evening bags made in gold, silver, white metal alloy or gilt metal, often

decorated with Eastern motifs and mother-of-pearl inlay, were typical accessories of the period. The outbreak of WWII slowed the demand for jewellery and most craftsmen were conscripted into the armed forces.

A diamond Art Deco bracelet, c1930. Photo: D Bennet and D Mascetti

A diamond wristwatch (c1925-1930). Photo: D Bennet and D Mascetti

11. THE RETRO PERIOD WWII AND THE POST-WAR YEARS During politically unstable times and when paper money depreciates rapidly, the demand for transportable wealth is always great. During WWII, the production of new jewellery slowed down, but the trade in antique and second-hand items flourished. After the war, the austerity of the recent past was forgotten and new names such as Givenchy, Dior and Balmain dressed women in thin waistlines and tight-fitting tops. Jewellery designers abandoned the massive geometric jewels of the early '40s and followed more naturalistic lines in creating items with large precious stones set in scrolled and curved mounts or in lace-like patterns. In 1948, Cartier produced the first three-dimensional panther brooch for the Duchess of Windsor, a theme that was copied for many decades to come. An economic boom followed the war and consumerism made its appearance. Although the French were still the leaders in jewellery design, the Italians - with names such as Bulgari and Cusi - developed a typical Italian style which found its way into Italian factories that sprung up in areas such as Vicenza and Arezzo, still famous today. These factories soon grew into the main suppliers of

Art Deco diamond and sapphire platinum brooch.

Art Deco diamond onyx arrow brooch.

AN A BRIEF INTRODUCTION HISTORY OF TOJEWELLERY GEMSTONES

mass-production gold jewellery, as demanded by the Western world's newly rich. The Retro style is typified by a three-dimensional look. Bold, oversized pieces, often described as “gaudy” with excessive use of aquamarine, citrine and amethyst in highly polished rose gold, are typical.

12. THE POST-RETRO PERIOD 1950 - 1979 Among the most definitive influences of the 1950s was De Beer’s decision to start a generic advertising campaign for diamonds. The slogan, “a diamond is forever”, was coined and diamonds were positioned as the ultimate symbol of love and commitment. The solitaire engagement ring became the most popular jewellery item and even in cultures where diamonds were unknown, De Beers’ effective advertising soon made a diamond ring an essential part of most engagements. When King Hirohito presented his queen with a diamond on the birth of their son, the diamond became part of Japanese culture. Japan is still today the second-largest consumer of diamonds after the USA. Harry Winston became the supplier of choice to the wealthy. His styles were soon copied and diamond and platinum rings, brooches in waterfall motif and large cluster designs were typical of the time. Tiffany’s developed the six-claw solitaire diamond setting, which remained popular for many decades. The style of jewels of the '50s is not easy to define. Gold necklaces and bangles, often of tubular (hollow) construction in simple design, mesh work or twisted wire work, were the order of the day. In the late '60s, a new wave of liberalism produced the “hippie” era during which freedom of expression and an obsession with pop culture influenced fashion and design. Mass-production jewellery, made of new materials such as perspex, glass fibre, glass, leather and steel, often with op art themes, were mainly produced for the younger generation. The Italian factories cemented their position as the leading exponents of fine gold, diamond and coloured stone jewellery through their advantage in design and production technology. De Beers played a significant role in jewellery design by sponsoring - from 1953 to the new millennium - the Diamond International Awards. Thousands of designers annually submitted entries of which the diamond content had to be at least 60% of the value of the materials used Thirty winners were announced each year.

During the oil crisis of 1976-1980, the world experienced inflation of up to 25% per annum and investors flocked to investment diamonds, which had a stable record of price increases since after WWII. When the inevitable recession occurred in 1980, diamond prices tumbled and many diamond-buyers swore never to buy a diamond again. This unfortunate period also had a negative impact on diamond jewellery sales and, for the next decade, the jewellery industry remained in trouble.

RETRO AND POST-RETRO JEWELLERY

Retro amethyst and gold ring.

Retro diamond and ruby watch.

13. THE EIGHTIES While consumers struggled to survive the recession of the 1980s, their taste for jewellery decreased and very little innovation occurred. The marriages of Princesses Diana and Fergie were major media events of the '80s and the cluster ring with diamonds surrounding a coloured centre stone (blue sapphire for Diana and a ruby for Fergie) became best-sellers during this period. When tennis star Chris Evert-Lloyd dropped a diamond line bracelet on centre court, millions of TV viewers were introduced to a jewellery item (now called a tennis bracelet) that was to become very popular for the next 30 years. This was the birth of celebrity endorsement in the jewellery industry.

3D "Great Cats" collection of the Duchess of Windsor, created by Cartier.

White and yellow gold diamond spray brooches.

ISSUE 27

In the '80s, a huge revival of costume jewellery occurred in response to the glitzy scenes from the TV soap operas Dallas and Dynasty. Diamanté set in huge gold-plated earrings and necklaces became popular. This trend quickly dated and consumers returned to simple designs of solitaire diamond pendants and ear-studs in the early 1990s.

remained conservative, often combining white and yellow gold with pavéd diamonds while fashion jewellery, which previously was made in formal styles from gilt metal and pavéd diamanté (paste), lost its glitter. Styles in fashion jewellery became informal and changed quickly to keep up with the changing dress designs. Coloured glass and synthetic beads were combined with natural materials such as bone, mother-of-pearl and large seeds to form flowing neckpieces and earrings. The production of all kinds of synthetic gemstones reached new heights and most mass-production gold jewellery were set with such stones.

Modern art motif in silver and gold necklace by Rudiger Lorenzen (1971). Photo: Guido Gregorietti

The "Lady Di" ring, favourite of the '80s.

For some time, European jeweller-artists were experimenting with abstract art themes using flat, uniform surfaces with lines, holes and small spheres repeated in geometric patterns. Others used surrealistic themes, symbolic forms and replicas of parts of the human body in their designs. These trends remained in the domain of art galleries and design competitions and never reached the average jewellery buyer. For economic reasons, many of the jeweller-artists on all continents were forced to produce a more commercial, but still unique product for their discerning clients.

14. THE NINETIES During the 1990s, the world - especially the USA produced more millionaires than ever before. Due to the advances in information and computer technology, Baby Boomers became immensely wealthy and could afford to spend their new-found gains on luxuries such as cars and jewellery. The most important trend was the demand for white precious metals. This started in Japan, where platinum was the metal of choice. Soon the massmarketers were selling white gold jewellery, often with matt surfaces, in an attempt to imitate platinum. Very few distinctive trends appeared in jewellery design as each major production house spent millions of dollars on marketing its own designs, which often were quite similar to those of their competition. Broad pavéd and tube-set rings were in vogue, while the high, claw-set solitaire setting disappeared. Fashion trends in clothing became short-lived as marketers needed to push a new trend for each season. Fine jewellery

Combining engagement rings and a wedding band in an interlocking design was popular for some time, but lost its uniqueness once mass-producers started to copy the theme. Animal charms and bracelets became popular as new tourist destinations were developed in Africa, India and Thailand.

Three-stone ring symbolising yesterday, today and tomorrow.

Eternity rings.

15. THE NEW MILLENNIUM FROM 2000At the onset of the new millennium, De Beers changed its marketing strategy and reduced the number of its sightholders. Of these privileged few, De Beers expected a major contribution towards the worldwide marketing of diamonds. Hence the onset of diamond branding. Sightholders teamed up with cutting factories and hundreds of “new” diamond-cutting styles were developed, each one marketed under a different name. Sightholders also formed partnerships with large jewellery manufacturing companies in India, Turkey and China and the designs that came from these factories often mirrored their own ethnic and traditional jewellery styles, albeit adopted in a modern idiom. Advances in casting technology and computerised modelmaking resulted in a jewellery style where bold and chunky rings and neckpieces were set with large numbers of micro diamonds. These styles could not be economically reproduced as one-off items and independent goldsmith workshops concentrated on simple, but innovative designs using different white and other gold alloys.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF JEWELLERY

Titanium and palladium jewellery became popular as the price of the platinum group metals exceeded US$1 000 per ounce. The economic production of large synthetic diamonds in all colours caused some initial concern, but soon jewellers realised that they needed to brand themselves as either a “natural diamond house”, or one selling synthetic diamonds.

Innovative setting techniques were developed by European goldsmiths and the tension setting (originally by Niessing) became popular for engagement rings.

Mass-produced jewellery copying many of the styles from previous periods was sold by Internet sellers, TV shows and mail-order catalogues. New gemstones such as tanzanite, Paraíba tourmaline, mandarin garnet, etc, were promoted heavily and were set with diamonds in classic styles for the more adventurous client.

Modern topaz cocktail ring with micro-set diamonds.

Modern micro-set diamond pendant.

4. HISTORY OF THE ENGAGEMENT RING The origin of the engagement ring probably dates from a declaration made by Pope Innocent III in 1215 which required a longer waiting period between betrothal and marriage. The earliest rings that signified a commitment to be married were plain and made from silver or gold. Religious laws stipulated the type of ring that could be used by a specific social rank. In later centuries, engagement rings were set with six stones, indicating the joining of two families. The birthstones of the bride and her parents were mounted on the left, and those of the groom and his parents on the right side of the ring. The first recorded diamond engagement ring was presented by the Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy as a betrothal gift in 1477. During the Vic-

16th century diamond ring. Photo: Barrie and Rockliff

Lover's ring, c1700. Photo: Steingraber

torian period, it was customary to present a bride-to-be with a Regards Ring, where small diamonds were pavé-set to form the word “regards”. In the middle of the 20th century, an extensive marketing campaign by De Beers resulted in the acceptance of a diamond as the symbol of love and engagement. In most cultures, the engagement ring is worn on the second finger of the left hand. This tradition stems from the belief that a blood vein from the ring finger connects directly to the heart. Mary of Burgundy, first recipient of a diamond engagement ring.

Classic diamond solitaire ring.

Modern engagement tension-set ring.

5. SIGNIFICANCE OF THE WEDDING BAND From the prayer book of Edward VI come the immortal words: “With this ring, I thee wed.” This is followed by: “This gold and silver I give thee”, at which point the groom is supposed to hand his bride a leather purse filled with

gold and silver coins. At that time, the wedding ring was considered more than just a token of eternal love. In fact, it was connected to the exchange of valuables between the wedding pair. To this day, grooms offer their brides

ISSUE 27

something valuable over and above the wedding band. This often takes the form of pearls or ear-studs and the groom, in exchange, may receive a watch or cufflinks from his bride. The exchange of wedding bands represents the final joining of two people and their families and is the one item that is given religious significance during the wedding ceremony. Buying an engagement ring represents the first major financial decision a couple makes and it is purchased while the couple is on an emotional high. On the other hand, when they purchase their wedding bands, reality has dawned; they are planning the wedding and a future together.

The jeweller should be aware of the difference in emotions that prevails during the selection of an engagement ring versus the client’s emotion during the purchase of a wedding band. While looking for an engagement ring, couples normally shop around for weeks and like to try on different rings from different jewellers. But when the time comes for the wedding bands, their euphoria is tempered and they go back to the jeweller who supplied their engagement ring. Now the jeweller should provide that extra service (free polishing and plating of the engagement ring, a sizing, if required, a photo for their album, etc), reinforcing their trust and making them lifelong clients.

6. FAMOUS JEWELLERS OF THE MODERN ERA THE HOUSE OF CARTIER This famous jewellery company was formed when, in 1847, Louis-François Cartier took over the Paris jewellery workshop of his teacher, Adolphe Picard. His son, Alfred Cartier, Louis Cartier. From G Blakeley had three sons - Pierre, Jacques and Louis - all of whom played a major role in establishing the company as it is known today. Louis Cartier was a master jeweller whose designs have been the inspiration of the Cartier brand until today. Pierre opened and managed their London store in 1902 and another store in New York in 1906. After the death of his brothers in 1942, these houses fell under different management, while Pierre retained his shop in Paris until he retired to Geneva in 1947. He once owned the famous Hope Diamond, which he sold in 1911 to Evelyn Walsh McLean. In the 1970s, French industrialist, Robert Hocq, acquired Cartier and his only daughter, Natalie, established “Les Must de Cartier” to serve the younger generation. In the late 20th century, the Rupert family of South Africa - through their investment vehicle, Richemont - obtained the controlling interest in Cartier.

TIFFANY’S In 1841, Charles Tiffany imported a range of paste jewellery from France to the USA. The success of this venture prompted him to sell “the real thing”. He became famous when, in 1848, he acquired part of the

French crown jewels after the regime of Louis Philippe collapsed. When the crown jewels of Marie Antoinette were auctioned by the French government in 1887, Tiffany’s again bought the bulk thereof. Tiffany’s was one of the first large jewellery houses to recognise the emerging engagement market and, today, still claims to be one of the largest sellers of diamond engagement rings.

HARRY WINSTON Harry Winston’s fame as a jeweller started when he bought the entire jewellery collection of Arabella Huntington, wife of a railroad magnate. This collection, whose designs were somewhat old-fashioned, Harry Winston, 1896-1978. originally came from Cartier in France. He redesigned the collection which he cleverly used to establish a name as a skilful designer of highquality jewellery. Operating from New York and Los Angeles, he became known as “the jeweller of the stars”. In 1958, he fur thered his fame by donating the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institute. Two decades after his death, his sons Ronald and Bruce engaged in a lengthy cour t battle over the sale of the company, which finally was ordered by a New York judge in 1998. Today the company has diversified into diamond mining in Canada and Africa.

RENÉ JULES LALIQUE Charles Tiffany, who founded Tiffany’s in 1837.

Famous as the world’s best glassmaker, Lalique is also regarded as the foremost jeweller of the Art Nouveau period.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF JEWELLERY

When his father died in 1876, he started an apprenticeship with Paris jeweller Louis Aucoc and thereafter studied design at Sydenham College in London. By the middle of the 1880s, he had started his own workshop and already had clients such as Cartier and Boucheron. His designs incorporated unusual nature motifs such as running water, exotic animals and the naked female form. The wellknown actress Sarah Bernhardt and art collector Calouste Gulbenkian became his patrons and furthered his fame. Each new exhibition of Lalique jewels created a stir in the art world and defined the trend of Art Nouveau design. However, he became disillusioned with the many poorquality imitations that his jewels had inspired and, from 1910 until his death in 1945, he devoted his talents entirely to the design and creation of glassmaking. Lalique glassware especially his vases - are of the most sought-after collector’s pieces. He mass-produced his glassware and often frosted his work to give it a personalised touch.

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Authenticity - the original designs are difficult to fake. However, modern Czech glasswork with Lalique signatures is plentiful (through e-Bay, etc). Lalique marked even his mass-produced items with his signature, “R Lalique”. This sign can be found in script, print, moulded and curved designs. In the earlier “Lalique” signatures, the leading "L" has a curlique top, making the letter look like an “S”. There is no definite guideline to an “authentic” Lalique sign, as he signed his name in many different ways.

His fame as a master glassmaker eclipsed his genius as a goldsmith and he is regarded as one of the most influential figures in art history.

René Lalique, 1860-1945.

The price of a Lalique piece can vary enormously. A small colourless vase in average condition can sell for a few hundred dollars, while the very large and rare Art Deco vases can fetch up to a million dollars a piece.

Courges (squash) vase.

Perfume bottle (20 cm) by Réne Lalique, valued at $22 000.

The most important value determinants of Lalique glass are: •

Condition - the presence of chips, ground-down edges indicating repair, drill holes from converted vases, etc, lowers the value dramatically.

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Colour - a colourless vase can fetch US$1 000-2 000, while a similar one in red could cost US$8 000 and one in electric blue more than US$25 000.

THE HOUSE OF FABERGÉ The famous Russian crown jeweller, Peter Carl Fabergé (1846-1920), produced elaborate objets d'art and objects of vertu which are characterised by his extreme skill and precise craftsmanship. These included enamelled Easter eggs, dinner services, frames, boxes and some jewellery. His designs borrowed from the French rococo style and Art Nouveau ideals, but could also be plain and sombre. Today, most Fabergé creations are highly collectable and very expensive.

Early Lalique signature with curlesque script "L".

ISSUE 27

PEARLS THEIR CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION, VALUATION AND CARE Among all gemstones, pearls are the only ones formed within living creatures. They were among the earliest materials used for jewellery and both freshwater and saltwater pearls were highly prized in the East long before the Christian era. Women have been fascinated by the various shapes, the large variety of colours available and the rich lore associated with pearls. The modernday affordability and versatility of pearls have made them an important part of most women’s wardrobes and thus an essential component of a jeweller’s inventory.

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Pearl types

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Unusual varieties

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Pearl enhancements

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Pearl identification

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Valuation of pearls

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Wear and care of pearls

PEARL TYPES 1. NATURAL PEARLS

SALTWATER CULTURED PEARLS

A natural pearl is formed when a substance called nacre is deposited around an irritant that has found its way into a mollusc. The irritant may be a grain of sand, a disease or a parasitic growth suffered by the mollusc. Saltwater natural pearls are formed almost exclusively in the mollusc genus Pinctada . Freshwater pearls are produced by various clam and mussel species. For many centuries, the Persian Gulf had been the world’s premier source for natural pearls. Very few natural pearls are available today. You may, however, encounter them in antique jewellery as small seed pearls in clasps and brooches or as a graduated string.

• Akoya cultured pearls (The Japanese word for “oyster” is akoya)

2. CULTURED PEARLS Most pearls that are sold today have been cultured by man. They are mainly produced at pearl farms located in saltwater lakes of Japan and China, in saltwater lagoons near the South Sea Islands and Australia or in freshwater river and lakes of China, the USA and elsewhere. Cultured pearls are grouped as either of a saltwater or freshwater origin.

At the end of the 19th century, Japanese scientists patented a technique whereby a piece of mantle tissue from another oyster and a bead of mother-of-pearl is surgically inserted into the gonad (the reproductive organ) of the saltwater Pinctada martensii mollusc. The host oyster is returned to the sea and after three to four years, a millimetre-thick layer of nacre has grown over the mother-of-pearl bead. These are then harvested, sorted, often bleached and/or coloured. It was, however, the zeal with which Kokichi Mikomoto and his son, Yoshitaka Mikimoto, promoted and produced high-quality cultured pearls up to the 1920s that changed the nature of the pearl industry. Today Japanese and Chinese pearl farmers use the Pinctata fucata saltwater oyster to produce cultured pearls up to 10 mm in diameter. The Japanese akoyas are considered superior and are more expensive than their Chinese and Vietnamese counterparts.

25 Villiers Street, Private Bag X6108, Kimberley, 8300 Tel: +27 (0)53 831 1867 Fax: +27 (0)86 572 4934 Email: info@kdji.org

SAJN | JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING PRECINCT

Gauteng positioned as a jewellery manufactur The R237 million construction project for the long-awaited Jewellery Manufacturing Precinct (JMP) broke ground in September 2015. A project of the Gauteng Growth and Development Agency (GGDA) and part of the Gauteng Industrial Development Zone (GIDZ), the site’s purpose is to be a mineral beneficiation hub where raw materials are processed into jewellery for both local and international markets. LOCATED CLOSE TO OR TAMBO INTERnational Airport in Ekurhuleni, east of Johannesburg, the value proposition of the OR Tambo Special Economic Zone (SEZ) programme is centred around the service offering of the airport, which remains one of the largest and busiest in Africa, with approximately 21 million passengers passing through it per annum (pre-COVID-19) – 3,7 million more than Cairo International Airport, the second-largest on the continent. According to a GIDZ-sponsored feature which appeared in the Mail&Guardian in November 2019, OR Tambo is also the largest

air cargo hub in Africa, handling 77% of SA’s air cargo volume, with a total of 387 277 tons. These attributes make its SEZ ideal for the manufacturing and export of products that move via airfreight (also defined as high value, light weight or low mass). These include perishables (such as fresh food and medicines), mineral products (such as jewellery and diamonds) and advanced component manufacturing (such as electronics). In support of this value proposition, the GIDZsponsored feature stated that its investment drive is focused on attracting manufacturing companies wanting to export their products

through OR Tambo International. The SEZ is also at the centre of the Ekurhuleni Aerotropolis, a 1 975 km² urban development plan with OR Tambo International Airport at its heart. The focus of the SEZ development has been on the delivery of the 7,5 ha land parcel, which is referred to as ORTIA Precinct 1. Concurrent with this development process, the Gauteng IDZ also undertook an investment drive to secure a credible investment pipeline. In support of the goal to attract both domestic and foreign direct investment into South African SEZs, the Gauteng IDZ secured domestic investment for the development of

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING PRECINCT | SAJN

the largest and most diverse ultra-

Courtesy Mail & Guardian

s ring hub

fresh food facility of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere and the second-largest refrigeration facility in the world. Construction on the agro-processing facility started in 2018 and was completed in April 2019. The factory is 22 735 m² in size. With delivery of the first phase of ORTIA Precinct 1 completed, the Gauteng IDZ turned its full attention to completion of the Jewellery Manufacturing Precinct (JMP), the second and final phase of the initiative. The JMP was conceptualised through stakeholder engagements with Airports Company SA (ACSA) early on, when the then Johannesburg International Airport was identified as a suitable location for the beneficiation and export of minerals. The concept, which was substantiated by detailed sector-focused research, aims not only to respond to the imperatives of the SEZ programme (increasing the production and export of products from SA), but also to contribute to the national beneficiation strategy of the country. According to the GIDZ-sponsored feature, the research revealed that there are a number of constraints to beneficiation in the country, including the issue of production-related costs. Companies located in the SEZ specifically for export purposes can take advantage of the national SEZ incentives packaged to reduce production costs, thereby increasing the

has been created, for example, in Dubai and India. In support of this, the JMP is a clustered environment that will make provision not only for manufacturers, but also for relevant support agencies and service enterprises. These include the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator and the State Diamond Trader, which – together with one of SA’s leading refineries – have already taken up occupancy in the precinct. The GIDZ’s initial plan (pre-COVID-19) was for the first element of the JMP, the Super Block, to be completed by mid-2020 and for construction on the other buildings to house local and international jewellery and diamond companies to commence mid-2020 and be completed by 2021. However, realising these dates was impossible due to the temporary cessation of operations because of COVID-19 lockdowns in 2020. While the focus of the SEZs is often on the end result of export, there is also a broader role for their development in the country. SEZs bring with them vital job opportunities, technological advancements and skills development. “The operations of the In2food facility have confidently shown that SA can develop and operate a facility with world-class technological requirements in the fresh food packaging and processing industry,” said the GIDZ. “The same will happen with the JMP, where new technologies in the design and manufacturing of jewellery will be promoted.” “The JMP is a catalytic project to spearhead the Ekurhuleni Aerotropolis project, which is aimed at offering businesses quick access to suppliers and enterprise partners both locally and internationally,” said GIDZ Senior Project Executive Seipati Mangadi when ground was first broken in 2015. The Gauteng IDZ, a subsidiary of the GGDA, was established in 2009 with the aim of developing and operating the designated Industrial Development Zone at OR Tambo International Airport.

competitiveness of South African products for global consumption. Beyond the issue of costs, however, is the critical need to revitalise the beneficiation industry through the establishment of a competitive mineral beneficiation cluster, as

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

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THE MARCH BIRTHSTONE: BLOODSTONE | SAJN

A dark green gem with red splatters You have heard of the March birthstone, aquamarine, but did you know that there were actually two gems associated with that month? Bloodstone, also known as heliotrope, is the traditional, as well as the alternative modern birthstone for March and is a form of the abundant mineral quartz. BLOODSTONE IS A VARIETY OF CHALCEDONY (cryptocrystalline quartz) that is traditionally semi-translucent to opaque dark green jasper with red inclusions of iron oxides, especially hematite. Bloodstone’s alternative name, heliotrope, comes from the ancient Greek word that means “to turn the sun”. In ancient times, these March birthstones were believed to turn the sun red if they were placed in water. The name “bloodstone” derives from the belief by some that the colour pattern has religious significance, representing the blood of Christ. Several metaphysical properties have been attributed to this stone, including the belief that it increases strength, enables invisibility and preserves health and youth. In modern times, many consider the bloodstone to be a lucky charm, as it is prized by athletes and others who want to grow their strength. Even today in India, fine bloodstones may be crushed into a powder and used as an aphrodisiac. Although bloodstone does not share the same beauty as the aquamarine March birthstone, many prize it for its special properties. Bloodstones used as gems are typically cut as cabochons, though some striking examples are faceted. Most bloodstone in the marketplace today is from India. However, it also comes from parts of Brazil, Australia, China and the USA, among other countries. It can be found filling fractures or cavities in other rocks or as pebbles in riverbeds. Bloodstone can easily be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. It is important to

keep it away from harsh chemicals and extremely hot temperatures. Dry this March birthstone with a clean, soft cloth. To prevent the stone from being scratched (it is 6,5-7 on the Mohs scale), it is important to store it in a soft fabric. The most famous bloodstone is on display at the Louvre Museum in Paris. It bears the seal of German Emperor Rudolf II.

Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services.

Although bloodstone does not share the same beauty as the aquamarine March birthstone, many prize it for its special properties. Bloodstones used as gems are typically cut as cabochons, though some striking examples are faceted. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

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SAJN | COLOURED GEMSTONES

Positive trajectory for Fancy Colour categories

The year 2021 showed a rise in the price of 89% of all Fancy Colour categories, the Fancy Colour Research Foundation has revealed.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY | SAJN THE FANCY COLOUR RESEARCH FOUNDATION (FCRF) has announced the Fancy Colour Diamond Price Index results for the fourth quarter and a summary of 2021. The year 2021 showed a rise in the price of 89% of all Fancy Colour categories. Price changes among all 128 categories tracked by the FCRF Fancy Colour Diamonds Price Index ranged from -1,3-7,9%, with the average change in 2021 being a price increase of 1,7%. The average price of all Fancy Colour Diamonds increased by 1,7% in 2021, a market recovery from the decrease seen in 2020. Throughout 2021, blues (2,2%) and pinks (2%) led the price increase, while yellow prices rose by 0,9%. Average prices for Fancy Vivids rose by 1,6%. Fancy Intense diamonds in all colours and sizes increased by an average of 1,8%, with the only exception being Fancy Intense Yellow 1,5ct and 5ct, which fell by 1,3% and 1%, respectively. During the fourth quarter, the average price of all Fancy Colour Diamonds rose by 0,5%. Price changes among all 128 categories tracked by the FCRF varied from 1,1-2,9%.

Pink Pink prices increased by an average of 0,6%, a similar rate to the previous quarter. Prices in all size categories increased or stayed the same in the fourth quarter, with the 3ct and 1,5ct categories leading at 1,2% and 1%, respectively. Diamonds of 2ct and 5ct in the Fancy category led the price increase, with 1,8% and 1,6%, respectively. Fancy Intense pinks of 2ct inched up by 0,3% and Fancy Intense 5ct did not change in price, while, interestingly, Fancy Vivid 2ct prices increased by 1,3% and Fancy Vivid 5ct decreased by 1,1%.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

Category

Q4/21 vs Q3/21 3M 2021

Q4/21 vs Q4/20 12M 2021

All Fancy Colour Diamonds

0,5%

1,7%

All Yellow Fancy Colour Diamonds

0,4%

0,9%

All Pink Fancy Colour Diamonds

0,6%

All Blue Fancy Colour Diamonds

0,5%

2,2%

Blue Blue prices rose by an average of 0,5%, similar to the previous quarter. Prices in all size categories increased or held their price in the fourth quarter, with the 1,5ct category showing the highest increase (1,4%). All Fancy category prices rose, ranging from 0,7% in the 5ct category to 2,9% in the 8ct category. Fancy Intense in the smaller weight categories exhibited a stronger increase, with 1,7% for 1ct and 2,4% for 1,5ct, while 2ct Fancy Intense showed the most significant price decrease (-0,6%). Yellow Yellow prices rose by 0,4% in the fourth quarter on average, a lower rate compared with the third quarter. The 2ct category led the price increase with 1,1%, while 1ct and 3ct were the only categories that showed price decreases, with -0,1% and -0,3%, respectively. Notably, the 5ct Fancy category showed a strong rise of 2,7%, while Fancy Intense 5ct inched up by 0,3% and Fancy Vivid 5ct prices went down by 0,1%. Similarly, Fancy Yellow 3ct increased in price by 1,5%, while Fancy Intense 3ct decreased by 0,9% and Fancy Vivid 3ct went down by 0,5%. “The steady increase of the Fancy Colour Diamond index is more evidence of the stability of this luxury category. We see more people buying these beautiful natural diamonds while

their supply diminishes,” says FCRF Advisory Board member Ephraim Zion. The Fancy Colour Diamond Index is published by the non-profit FCRF, tracking pricing data for yellow, pink and blue Fancy Colour diamonds in major global trading centres including Hong Kong, New York, Geneva and Tel Aviv.

The Fancy Colour Research Foundation is a non-profit organisation that operates as the gateway to Fancy Colour diamond trading. It streamlines Fancy Colour diamond trade by integrating data from various parts of the value chain and providing insights, tools and services for industry professionals. It provides its members with objective price index and auction analyses, as well as accurate rarity data and diamond valuations that enable trading optimisation. It also provides research and studies that introduce an intellectual and commercial point of view, enriching knowledge and conversations.

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DID YOU KNOW? | SAJN

Interesting facts 1

Pearls from the Persian Gulf are usually cream-coloured; those from Australia are white with greenish or bluish shades; golden-brown pearls come from the Gulf of Panama; those from Mexico are black or reddish-brown and pink pearls are from Sri Lanka

The South Deep gold mine, located in Gauteng, SA, is one of the world’s biggest gold mines. It is also the seventhdeepest mine in the world with a depth of 2 995m below the surface. It has a mine life of 75 years.

It is estimated that our ocean beds contain close to $150 trillion of gold. If we can find a way to extract that gold, there will be 4.5 kg of gold for every person of us on earth.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

The Cullinan diamond mine is one of the major sources of blue diamonds in the world.

Kimberlite pipes are the most important source of mined diamonds today. However, it is estimated that only one in 200 pipes will have diamonds.

One of the oldest gold mines open to the public in SA, the Old Kromdraai Gold Mine continues to provide guided tours.

In SA, the discovery of the first platinum nuggets dates back to 1924. The geologist Hans Merensky’s follow-up work resulted in the discovery of two deposits, each around 100 km in length, which became known as the Bushveld Igneous Complex.

The Witwatersrand gold-producing area in SA is underlain by a geological formation also known as the Witwatersrand Basin.

Extracting platinum is both capitaland labour-intensive. It can take up to six months and 7-12 tons of ore to produce one troy ounce (31,135 g) of pure platinum.

SAJN | PLATINUM

PlatinumABC launched PGI RECENTLY ANNOUNCED THE LAUNCH of a brand-new platform on YouTube – PlatinumABC, an integrated arena for different sectors within the jewellery industry to share novel and important ideas and practices. This allows various voices and messages from industry experts to share their knowledge through the creation of videos. The aim is to drive awareness of and innovation in the future of platinum in the jewellery industry, improve the production process and influence the business ecosystem. With the platform’s content focusing on ideas which are specific to the jewellery industry, the target audience of PlatinumABC will primarily be specialists such as manufacturers and designers aiming to reach technology and design innovators. The contribution of new and relevant ideas in the industry aims to influence the way platinum jewellery is designed and made, while making information regarding emerging trends more accessible than it has ever been before. PlatinumABC offers a series of videos on design and tech trends and interviews with industry leaders, including precious metal 3D printing technology and platinum jewellery trend reports among young consumers. Through sharing design trends, reviewing the manufacturing process, participating in offline workshops and a series of other activities, the platform provides inspiration for creativity and explores new R&D capacities that lead the way for platinum jewellery development. “We’re very excited about the opportunity that PlatinumABC presents,” says Huw Daniel, CEO of PGI. “By connecting contemporary elements from technology, manufacturing and design, we have the potential to accelerate the growth of the platinum jewellery industry by digitally incubating noteworthy ideas and practices in the field. PlatinumABC hopes to bring together all the creative minds and people who love and work with platinum, so that the community can continuously share past experiences and innovate into the future.”

Platinum Guild International (PGI) is a marketing organisation which was created in 1975 with the vision of developing the global platinum jewellery market as a new demand source for the metal. It has now launched PlatinumABC, which offers a platform for creativity within the jewellery industry covering design and technology.

“We’re extremely excited to work with international experts to incubate novel ideas and innovate technologies for the development of platinum jewellery,” says Tai Wong, Director of Innovation & Product Development. “We strongly believe that PGI has a duty and responsibility to consolidate and share past knowledge and build a community of experts to nurture future platinum innovations. PlatinumABC is looking forward to opening up opportunities for all platinum-lovers and creative minds.” Since PGI was created in 1975, jewellery development has demonstrated a strong track record in delivering results, with platinum jewellery contributing over 80 million ounces of demand. Through various programmes, both direct to consumers and in collaboration with

jewellery retailers and manufacturers, PGI creates consumer ounce demand by first identifying opportunities for platinum in jewellery and then developing them with partners. The organisation’s consumer marketing and educational programmes are focused on developing awareness of platinum’s unique qualities as a precious metal for fine jewellery. In addition, PGI works collaboratively with partners globally, running extensive marketing programmes in the four main platinum jewellery markets of China, Japan, the USA and India. These markets are staffed by experts in strategic planning, marketing, retail, design and business development. PGI is funded by the leading platinum producers of SA, as well as by co-funded programmes within the jewellery industry.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

The Mineral Hall in the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History.

An extraordinary

Photo courtesy of Okavango Diamond Company

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

AN EXHIBITION OF GEMS AND MINERALS emanating from the four corners of the globe is one of New York’s major attractions for visitors interested in natural history. It is appropriately named the Museum of Natural History and features a formidable array of gems of incredible sizes and colours and attracts an endless stream of visitors. Situated on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, it took six years to design and build the exhibit – from 1970-1975 – and on display are many renowned samples chosen from the mu(Above left): The 632-carat Patricia Emerald is a dihexagonal, or 12-sided, crystal and is considered one of the great emeralds in the world. Found in Colombia in 1920, it was named after the mine owner’s daughter. This specimen is one of the very few large emeralds that have been preserved uncut. (Left): The Okavango Blue, a “fancy deep blue” diamond in an oval brilliant-cut weighing 20.46 carats, is the centerpiece of a new display at the American Museum of Natural History featuring diamonds from Botswana. The gem, which is on loan from Okavango Diamond Company—wholly owned by the Government of Botswana—will be on view in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery within the Museum’s new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals.

seum’s over 100 000 pieces. It hosts one of the world’s largest and most exclusive geology selections. Originally founded in 1869, it has advanced its global mission to deliver, interpret and disseminate information about human culture, the natural world and the universe through a wide-ranging programme of scientific research, educational programmes and exhibitions. The Hall of Minerals is one of the most important and comprehensive collections of its type on the planet and contains about 185 000 specimens of rocks and other types of minerals. Most colourful is the Hall of Gems, which contains a number of spectacular gemstones, the most renowned being the world’s largest sapphire – the six-pointed Star of India of 563ct, polished into the shape of a cabochon or dome to enhance the stone’s beauty. It was discovered over 300 years ago in Sri Lanka, most likely in the sands of the river beds where sapphires are still found today. It was donated to the museum by American financier JP Morgan and displayed in the Guggenheim Hall.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN Another spectacular stone is the Patricia Emerald, a superbly coloured, 12-sided crystal of 632ct. Reconstructed in the Morgan Memorial Hall is also a pocket of tourmaline gems discovered in the mountains of San Diego in southern California. The clear rock crystal, believed by the Greeks to be permanently frozen water, is also here. Then there is the 100,32ct DeLong Star Ruby – one of the largest ever found – and a magnificent 270 kg topaz. The Star of India, the DeLong Star Ruby and another treasure – the 16,25ct Eagle Diamond – were among the stones stolen from the museum in 1964 by burglars who gained entry by climbing through a bathroom window they had unlocked hours before the museum closed. The DeLong Star Ruby and the Star of India were eventually recovered, but the Eagle Diamond has never been seen again and is thought to have been re-cut or lost. The mastermind of the heist was Jack Murphy, a surfer, musician, artist and convicted murderer. The Museum of Natural History’s Grand Gallery has been in a developmental stage since

(Above): Detailed information about every gem in the Gem Hall is available via digital labels accessible on a visitor’s smartphone via a QR code.

(Above): Exhibition staff members install specimens in the all-new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History.

October 2017 and the space is being redesigned to provide a new home for this wonderful collection, which also includes organic materials such as coral and amber that are prized as gems. The museum is a spectacular repository which visitors to New York should not miss seeing.

museum

(Left): At 563 ct, the Star of India is the world’s largest gemquality blue star sapphire. Some 2 billion years old, it is one of the most best-known objects in the world.

(Above): A carving of the Buddhist deity Guan Yin in lavender jadeite jade, fashioned in China during the late Qing Dynasty.

The Hall of Gems contains a number of spectacular gemstones, the most renowned being the world’s largest sapphire – the sixpointed Star of India of 563ct. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2022

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

SUPPORT ENGAGE ENCOURAGE

The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Wholesalers and Service Members. For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today! Inquiries: Bavina Vassan on (011) 484 5528 or bavinav@jewellery.org.za

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ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY Tel: 079 477 2729 E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JONNERLEE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za; info@thejeweller.co.za Website: www.thejeweller.co.za JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/ K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

E-mail: mambudesign@mweb.co.za; mambuorders@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/ MAGGIE AFRICA Tel: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/ MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/ MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PREVIDA & CO Tel: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/ SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/ ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/ RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/ STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/ STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

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SUMMER 2021

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