SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • March 2023

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MARCH 2023 SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE

jewellerynews

Sustainable metals: change is possible WE LOOK AT

Your blue gemstone guide

Why e-waste matters

Committing to responsible practices

SA

J.P.P.E is a Cape Town-based family business with a passion for gemstones and jewellery that has been servicing the industry since 1966 - inspiring us to create stunning jewellery designs for both locals and tourists.

From trendy pieces to the classic jewellery staples, we offer an impressive selection of designs set in a rainbow of colours, as well as a broad selection of loose gemstones.

Our vast range of styling can be ordered using a variety of gemstones, in 9ct, 14ct or 18ct solid gold.

With innovative CAD designing combined with the expertise of our talented artisans, our craftsmanship is on par with international standards.

VIEW OUR CATALOGUE: www.jppe.co.za orders@jppe.co.za

CONTACT US:

Kyle Gilson (Director)

+27 21 424 7764

Paul (Sales Representive)

+27 82 667 3456

Zalandi (Sales Representive)

+27 66 430 4630

All our jewellery is made in SA and is backed with a 100% service guarantee.

9. NEWS

• Swatch Group upbeat for 2023 amid Chinese recovery

• GJEPC hosts successful IIJS Signature 2023

• Israel Diamond Week to feature tender of polished goods

• Kim Kardashian buys amethyst cross pendant worn by Princess Diana

• Free Jewellex365 exhibitor subscription for JCSA members

• CIBJO and WJI 2030 host panel discussion on gender equality in the jewellery and watch industry

15. COVER FEATURE

With offices in Cape Town and Johannesburg, BYL Diamonds has cemented its reputation as one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery manufacturers and wholesale suppliers.

16. SUSTAIBABLE METALS: CHANGE IS POSSIBLE

Jewellers, consumers and investors are moving towards demanding more sustainable products and practices – and rightly so. We need to protect what the earth so generously provides to us. From mine to market, the metal supply chain can be more sustainable. This issue explores how the industry is changing and means to achieve a more sustainable future.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 4
CONTENTS contents
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21. PART 2: METHODS AND CHALLENGES OF ESTABLISHING THE GEOGRAPHIC ORIGIN OF DIAMONDS

There is growing interest in developing methods to deduce the geographic origin of diamonds. For now and the foreseeable future, the only definitive way of doing this depends on preserving and retaining origin information from the time of mining.

29. SUSTAINABILITY, BUSINESS AND TRENDS AT CENTRE OF VICENZAORO JANUARY

The latest products, trends and consumer lifestyles, as well as the industry’s commitment to sustainability and training, were the focus of Vicenzaoro January – The Jewellery Boutique Show (VOJ) which took place from 20-24 January alongside T.Gold, the international event for jewellery machinery and technologies, at the Vicenza Expo Centre.

30. GOLD INDUSTRY COMMITS TO RESPONSIBILITY AND SUSTAINABILITY PRINCIPLES

The gold industry has come together, convened by the World Gold Council and the London Bullion Market Association, to sign a Declaration of Responsibility and Sustainability Principles which formally expresses a shared commitment to operating based on clear set of shared goals.

34. WHAT IS E-WASTE AND WHY DOES IT MATTER?

Beautiful jewellery need not come at a cost to the environment –which is where local jewellery designer Ashley Heather, founder of AuTerra, finds inspiration. Hand-making sustainable silver and gold minimalist and botanical-inspired jewellery using precious metals recycled from e-waste, she explains exactly what e-waste is and why it matters.

43. YOUR BLUE GEMSTONE GUIDE

For several centuries, people have adorned themselves in glittering blue stones – and the trend continues to this day.

44. BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA.

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 CONTENTS
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are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising.
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Africa
Tel: +27 11 334 4527 Cell: +27 83 656 9013 Website: www.egl.co.za
Wholesalers of a large variety, high quality 925 sterling silver chains and jewellery, manufactured and imported from Italy. Yellow gold, rose gold, rhodium and ruthenium plated chains. Excellent service and unbeatable prices to the whole of Southern Africa Soa Costaras: +27 61 719 1886 +27 11 524 0693 Email: mail@italchain.com Website: www.italchain.com

Editor: Adri Viviers

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IN THIS ISSUE, SAJN CELEBRATES TWO decades of great change in our industry towards achieving greater sustainability, while also reminding us that we still have a long way to go.

Every year, more companies within the precious metals, jewellery and watch industries are focused on reducing their carbon footprints, packaging waste, water usage and other damage to the environment. It is good to see that sustainability has become a buzzword in companies in our industry – big and small. Sustainability is often defined as meeting the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs. Broadly speaking, a company implements sustainable practices by reducing its consumption of limited resources, or finding alternative resources with, for example, fewer environmental consequences.

Sustainable jewellery’s aim is to avoid having a negative impact on the environment or the people who make it by

Editor's note ON THE COVER

using materials which can be traced back to their source, thus ensuring that they have been produced ethically. It includes using recycled materials and ensuring that employees are paid fair wages, have reasonable hours and do not use methods that pollute or damage the environment.

This issue of SAJN explores the progress of our industry and what can still be done to achieve greater sustainability. Local refinery Metal Concentrators shares how it places sustainability at the heart of all its business practices. Its unique business model expands across the precious metal supply chain –from refining to metal supply, all the way to casting and jeweller services. Its business model enables it to make a real difference at various touchpoints.

With examples such as these to follow, it is clear that there is no stopping the growing force and rewards of sustainability. May this issue inspire you to be even more aware of these ethical practices.

Adri Viviers

With offices in Cape Town and Johannesburg, BYL Diamonds has cemented its reputation as one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery manufacturers and wholesale suppliers. Through associates with mines in South Africa and state-of-the-art polishing factories abroad, BYL Diamonds has secured access to some of the world’s most impressive loose cut diamonds and gemstones, in a galaxy of shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. In addition to being a leading supplier of loose diamonds and gemstones, it is renowned for the quality of its ever-changing jewellery range, with each piece made up using the finest diamonds and gemstones carefully chosen for each individual item. For more information on its range of diamonds, gemstones and jewellery collections, contact BYL Diamonds on tel: (021) 419-2000 / e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com or visit www.byldiamonds.com.

Tel: +27 11 334 4527

Cell: +27 83 656 9013

Website: www.egl.co.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023
SA Sustainable metals: change is possible WE LOOK AT Committing to responsible practices Why e-waste matters Your blue gemstone guide
MARCH 2023 SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE
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SA Sustainable metals: change is possible WE LOOK AT Committing to responsible practices Why e-waste matters Your blue gemstone guide
news MARCH 2023 SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE
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Israel Diamond Week to feature tender of polished goods

The Israel International Diamond Week, to be held from 27-30 March 2023, will feature a much-anticipated tender of polished goods held at the International Tender Centre of the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE). The tender will be conducted by Diagurus (the Israeli branch of the South African DMC, which specialises in operating and executing diamond tenders, especially of polished goods) from 26-30 March 2023.

The tender will include a large number of white and fancy colour polished goods in a wide variety of colours, shapes and sizes. It is part of the Premium Tenders Programme, a collaboration between the Israel Diamond Exchange and Diagurus, which is operated and managed by the tender company. Participation in it is conditional upon advance registration, as well as scheduling an appointment.

The Israel International Diamond Week is the IDE’s first international event in three

years. It will include a professional conference, an exciting international exhibition and the World Diamond Congress.

The first Israel Diamond Conference on 27 March 2023 will be opened by Israeli President Yitzhak Herzog and will bring together the senior leaders of the global diamond industry. Speakers will include mining ministers and representatives of major diamond producers, as well as finance and banking leaders. Attendance at the conference is free of charge, but space is limited.

The conference will be followed by the Israel International Diamond Exhibition from 28-30 March, which will offer a huge variety of goods from hundreds of Israeli and international exhibitors. As in past years, organisers will provide three free hotel nights

GJEPC hosts successful IIJS Signature 2023

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) presented the first designcentric jewellery show of 2023, the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS Signature) and the India Gem & Jewellery Machinery Expo at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from 5-9 January 2023.

The 15th edition of IIJS Signature was as large as the IIJS Première, which is usually held in August each year. Given the bigger format of the show, IIJS Signature was extended to five days instead of four, in order for visitors to cover the entire show floor of six halls, with over 1 300 exhibitors and more than 2 400 booths. The show was attended by 24 000 visitors from 10 000 domestic companies and a record number of 800 foreign visitors.

“The effort made by the GJEPC to make

the five-day IIJS Signature show bigger, better and greener is truly praiseworthy and commendable,” said Indian Minister of State for Commerce & Industry and chief guest Anupriya Patel. “The event’s given an opportunity to indigenous jewellers from diverse parts of the country to showcase their versatile collections to international buyers from more than 50 countries. With US$40 billion worth of exports, the gem and jewellery sector is a prominent contributor to growing Indian exports year on year. India has just signed two significant free trade agreements with the UAE and Australia, which have resulted in strong double-digit growth in exports to those countries.

“IIJS Signature has always had a rich legacy and this ‘green’ expo edition included a special booth for women entrepreneurs and

to the hundreds of diamond buyers expected from all over the world.

The World Diamond Congress, the major event of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, which is held every three years, will also take place from 28-30 March 2023.

IDE President Boaz Moldawsky says he is very pleased to include the Diagurus polished tender as part of the events of the week. “Even before announcing the tender, buyer registration was progressing at a very rapid pace. I’m sure that the polished tender will attract an even greater number of buyers from Israel and around the world. I wish to thank Aviad Bashari, Chairperson of the Exhibitions Committee and Zvika Zamir, Chairperson of the Tenders Committee, for bringing this about,” he says.

a showcase for budding jewellery designers. The ministry’s taken several significant steps such as the implementation of simplified regulatory frameworks for gem and jewellery exports through e-commerce, the reduction of duties for imports of diamonds, a new gold monetisation policy and hallmarking norms. Government’s committed to promoting gem and jewellery exports,” said Patel.

The GJEPC, set up by the Ministry of Commerce in 1966, is one of several export promotion councils launched by the Indian government to boost the country’s export thrust when India’s post-independence economy began making forays into international markets. The council was granted autonomous status in 1998 and is the apex body of the gem and jewellery industry, today representing 8 800 members in the sector.

Kim Kardashian buys pendant worn by Princess Diana

Kim Kardashian has bought the Attallah Cross, famously worn by the late Diana, Princess of Wales with an Elizabethan-style Catherine Walker gown at a London charity gala in 1987.

The 1920s pendant went on sale at Sotheby’s and was one of the last lots to be auctioned off.

The cross-shaped amethyst was bought in the 1980s

by businessman Naim Attallah, who lent it to Diana on several occasions.

It is believed to be a one-off private commission and has a total diamond weight of 5,25ct.

Kristian Spofforth, Head of Jewellery at Sotheby’s London, said before the auction that it was rare to receive a piece like this for sale.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 NEWS
Tel: +27 11 334 4527 Cell: +27 83 656 9013 Website: www.egl.co.za
Contact: Aroon Bhoora Tel: +27 31 301 3963 Fax: +27 86 528 6516 Cell: +27 83 777 6657 aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za www.piyuvejewellers.co.za Durban based manufacturing jewellery specialising in Indian and fushion jewellery. Call us for all insurance replacement claims.

Free Jewellex365 exhibitor subscription for JCSA members

Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) members can now sign up to activate their free exhibition subscription on the Jewellex365 online B2B platform until the end of August 2023.

Launched by the JCSA in June this year, the platform has been developed in line with the global digitalisation of jewellery business platforms. “It’s a natural and much-needed online resource and an integral part of how we do business and collaborate,” says Lorna Lloyd, the council’s CEO.“The JCSA had no hesitation in investing in this platform and in its development –based on research and excellent feedback – and the clear need to keep our industry moving forward.”

Jewellex365 offers a fantastic opportunity for sellers and buyers to connect directly with each other and is marketed to the industry via the JCSA’s website, social media and e-mail.

Sellers will be able to continuously upload and display new products and services throughout the year, which will encourage an ongoing flow of potential buyers.

Both exhibitors and buyers are vetted upon registration.

Members and non-members are invited to apply. Non-member pricing can be viewed at: https://jewellex365.co.za/pricing/.

For further information, contact Kirsten Lenton on e-mail: kirstenl@jewellery.org.za.

Swatch Group upbeat for 2023 amid Chinese recovery

The Swatch Group gave a positive outlook for this year following a jump in annual sales and a notable rebound in China in January.

Consumer demand quickly recovered at the beginning of 2023 after the cessation of COVID-19 measures and the lifting of travel restrictions on the mainland, said the Swiss-based company. The move also positively affected sales in Hong Kong and Macau.

“The sales growth in January in China reinforces the group’s expectations to aim for a record year in 2023,” the group noted.

Revenue grew 2,5% to US$8,15 billion in 2022, reported the luxury group, which owns brands including Harry Winston, Omega and Tissot. Sales of jewellery and watches, the company’s dominant category, rose 1,9% to US$7,77 billion. Its electronics division accounted for most of the remainder. Net earnings increased 6% to US$894,5 million.

Last year all regions saw growth, with the exception of Asia, which was “severely dampened by a significant decline” brought on by lockdowns, followed by a large coronavirus wave. Sales in China fell 30% in 2022 and 50% year on year in December alone. However, Europe, the USA and the Middle East all saw consistent double-digit sales growth during the year, Swatch added. –

A reputation you can trust Fully independent and South African owned Suite E8, First Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road Off Skeen Boulevard Bedfordview, Johannesburg Reports for all your Gemmological requirements Tel: +27 11 334 4527 / Cell: +27 83 656 9013 E-mail: services@egl.co.za Website: www.egl.co.za NEWS

De Beers Group releases production report for fourth quarter of 2022

Rough diamond production increased by 6% to 8,2 million carats, reflecting strong operational performance across the assets, partially offset by the planned completion of the final cut at Venetia open pit, noted the production report for the fourth quarter of 2022 released by the De Beers Group.

In Botswana, production increased by 11% to 5,8 million carats, primarily driven by strong plant performance, particularly at Jwaneng.

Namibia production increased by 51% to 0,6 million carats, primarily driven by the continued strong performance from the Benguela Gem vessel and the treatment of higher-grade ore at the land operations.

South African production decreased by

American Swiss and Gert-Johan Coetzee partner for exclusive jewellery collection

Award-winning South African fashion designer, Gert-Johan Coetzee and jewellery retailer

American Swiss have collaborated to create an exclusive jewellery collection. The American Swiss Love Knot is a collection consisting of different pieces of jewellery which launched on 2 February 2023.

American Swiss commissioned Coetzee to design an element that would stand the test of time and symbolise the Love Generation

27% to 0,9 million carats, due to the planned completion of the final cut at Venetia open pit. The mining of the open pit was completed in December and the mine will transition to underground operations in 2023.

Production in Canada increased by 7% to 0,8 million carats, primarily driven by the treatment of higher-grade ore.

Midstream polished diamond inventories continued to build in the fourth quarter, as retailers restocked more cautiously amidst growing economic uncertainty. This led to downward pressure on wholesale polished prices. However, demand for De Beers’ rough diamonds remained steady, with rough diamond sales totalling 7,3 million carats

– a generation that embraces diversity, inclusivity and transformation. Inspired by the African elephant, Coetzee adorned the jewellery with the American Swiss Love Knot, a design of two elephant trunks linked together in an embrace, representing strength, love and unity. He added the cowrie shell detail to bring these sophisticated pieces to a poetic finish.

According to Coetzee and American Swiss, jewellery is an expression of self and love and they wanted this collection to embody that and celebrate South African designs. This jewellery collection is a perfect amalgamation of moissanite, white gold, sterling silver and Coetzee’s elegant designs, consisting of stud earrings, rings and neckpieces.

(6,6 million carats on a consolidated basis) from two sights, compared with 7,7 million carats (7,2 million carats on a consolidated basis) from three sights in Q4 2021 and 9,1 million carats (8,5 million carats on a consolidated basis) from three sights in Q3 2022.

The full year consolidated average realised price increased by 35% to US$197/ct (2021: US$146/ct), driven by a 23% increase in the rough diamond price index, as well as selling a larger proportion of higher-value rough diamonds in the first half of the year. The increase in the rough price index reflected overall positive consumer demand for diamond jewellery and was supported by De Beers’ proposition of provenance-assured diamonds.

As this was American Swiss’s first collaboration with a South African designer, it was vital they selected have the ability to capture the essence of their customers in their creations. With a hefty resumé, years of experience under his belt and a versatile style, Coetzee was an obvious choice. The partnership also demonstrates a deep appreciation for diversity, heritage and the people of South Africa and indicates an undeniable synergy and an aligned vision for the future of design. “We look forward to taking this partnership with Gert to new heights, celebrating local design and hearing the response from South Africans as we develop the next collection,” says Lee Reitz, American Swiss's, Head of Marketing and Online.

From record-breaking deep-sea dives to lunar landings, Omega’s legacy is replete with largescale accomplishments. The first of this year’s big achievements is, in fact, rather tiny.

Omega’s latest Speedmaster is fine-tuned for precision, thanks to the Spirate System, which includes a revolutionary patent-pending spiral that allows for ultra-fine rate adjustments. Because of this one-ofa-kind mechanism, it is now possible for Omega to achieve certified precision of only 0/+2 seconds a day.

To meet these narrow targets, Omega had to quite literally reinvent the wheel: drawing on both the technical resources of the Swatch Group and the precision, stability and reliability of Omega’s chronometrically superior in-house movements.

The innovative solution was a totally new Si14 balance spring which allows the watchmaker to act on the stiffness of the hairspring’s attachment point through an eccentric adjustment mechanism located on the balance bridge.

This new approach, based on the design of a high-precision articulated structure with flexible bearings, is a superb example of Omega’s willingness to run with new ideas and take up difficult challenges.

The road to Spirate is paved with milestones: technological bricks set down by Omega over onequarter of a century. Each innovation is a credit to the brand's pioneering spirit and an essential building block its achievement.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 12 NEWS
Omega’s new Speedmaster boasts brand’s most accurate mechanical movement yet

CIBJO and WJI 2030 host panel discussion on gender equality

The steps required to action gender equality, as articulated in the UN’s Sustainable Development Goal 5, was the subject of a panel discussion organised by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) at the Vicenzaoro show.

“Women drive 90% of demand for jewellery industry products across the entire value chain, but the roles and opportunities made available to them are still often conditioned by gender inequalities and discrimination,” CIBJO noted. “In certain regions, however, there’s now a shift towards broader diversity, but a shared challenge for many companies is where and how to start.”

The panel discussed this complex and multi-faceted topic on 23 January in the VIP lounge at the Vicenza exposition grounds, where the Vicenzaoro show was being held.

The discussion specifically considered gender quality in the jewellery and watch industry from the perspective of the seven Women’s Empowerment Principles, as expressed within the framework of the UN Global Compact. These include establishing high-level corporate leadership for gender equality; treating all women and men fairly

at work; respecting and supporting human rights and non-discrimination; ensuring the health, safety and well-being of all female and male workers; promoting education, training and professional development for women; implementing enterprise development, supply chain and marketing practices that empower women; promoting equality through community initiatives and advocacy; and measuring and publicly reporting on progress to achieve gender equality.

“The World Jewellery Confederation enthusiastically joins in this mission,” said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri. “To meet our potential as an industry, from a business perspective and certainly as a catalyst for social and economic progress, equality for all is an absolute given. And how can we talk about equality without addressing what’s clearly been a case of historic disparity in the opportunities and levels of esteem extended to more than half the population? Women’s empowerment in the jewellery and watch industry must not only be a catch-phrase, but a principle of policy and we need to work together to operationalise that principle across the value chain.”

Fancy colour diamonds outperform main markets

The Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) has announced the results of the Q4 and full year 2022 Fancy Color Diamond Index (FCDI).

The average price of all colours and sizes of fancy colour diamonds climbed by 3.9% in 2022, led by a 4.6% increase in all Yellows and followed by a 3.9% rise in Pinks and 1.8% in Blues. This climb was in contrast to the annual decline in white diamonds and other major financial markets.

The annual increment of the Yellow category was led by an increase of 5.6% in the Intense grade across all sizes, 5.5% rise in the Fancy grade and 3.7% in the Vivid grade. The sharpest increase of 9% in the past year was seen in the Fancy 8 carat grade, and Fancy Vivid 5 carat increasing by 6.6%. In Q4 2022, all Yellows rose by 1.5% with no decrease seen in any segment.

In Q4 2022, Pinks of all sizes appreciated by 0.8%. 1.5 carat Pinks in the Vivid grade increased by 4.6% and were the main

contributor to the overall increase. During 2022, weight categories below 8 carats presented significantly better results (with an average climb of 5.5%) than higher weight categories. The Vivid 1.5 carat grade was the highest climber among all fancy diamonds in 2022, with an increase of 9.3%.

Blue diamonds showed a moderate increase of 0.4% in the last quarter and completed a 1.8% appreciation for the whole year. In 2022, the Fancy Vivid category rose by 2.7%, outperforming the Fancy grade that increased by 1.5% and the Fancy Intense that decreased 0.3%. The highest increase of 6.4% in the Blue segment was in the 2 carat category.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 NEWS
For more information or to book your space, contact: Thuli Majola / 011 883 4627 / thuli@isikhova.co.za BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY say YES to advertising in our 2023 bi-annual directory

Unrivalled quality and choice

and investment diamonds at very competitive prices,” says Omri Yedid Levi, CEO of BYL Diamonds. “We also aim to give clients access to any diamond they might need.”

BYL Diamonds' ‘inventory consists of certified diamonds, fancy colour diamonds, calibrated round diamonds, exclusive fancy shape pairs, certified tanzanite and investment stones.

THROUGH ASSOCIATES WITH MINES IN South Africa and state-of-the-art polishing factories abroad, BYL Diamonds has secured access to some of the world’s most impressive loose cut diamonds and gemstones, in a galaxy of shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. Its diamond collection includes a wide range of loose diamonds, mostly certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), calibrated round and fancy shape diamonds, as well as investment stones. “It's always been our aim to offer our clientele the largest selection of the most sought-after commercial

In addition to being a leading supplier of loose diamonds and gemstones, it is renowned for the quality of its ever-changing jewellery range, with each piece made up using the finest diamonds and gemstones carefully chosen for each individual item. Its portfolio offers eye-catching pieces, set in a range of metals including platinum, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold. Its jewellery collection consists of designer diamond jewellery, certified gemstone jewellery, platinum diamond jewellery and tanzanite jewellery, as well as its BYL Collection, which offers clients uniquely designed diamond jewellery at very competitive prices.

“Loyal customers are an essential part of our business’s success,” says Levi. “We believe that exceptional businesses need exceptional partners, which is why we constantly strive to innovate and move forward, together with our valued clients.

“Our main goal is to provide our clients with the best-quality products at the most competitive prices. We view our clients as long-term partners and consider their success ours.”

Business development manager –Cape Town / Johannesburg

Tomer Yedid Levi

Tel: 078-675-5928 or e-mail: tomer@byldiamonds.com

Cape Town

Mishqa Roman

Tel: 060-801-4954 or e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com

or Gidon Molin

Tel: 078-874-5073 or e-mail: customercare@byldiamonds.com

Johannesburg

Jarred Rosenberg

Tel: 063-452-2334 or e-mail: sales@byldiamonds.com

or Thandi Khoza

Tel: 082-854-0870 or e-mail: sales2@byldiamonds.com

Office tel: (021) 419-2000

Website: www.byldiamonds.com

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 15
COVER FEATURE
With offices in Cape Town and Johannesburg, BYL Diamonds has cemented its reputation as one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery manufacturers and wholesale suppliers.
We believe that exceptional businesses need exceptional partners, which is why we constantly strive to innovate and move forward, together with our valued clients.
BYL 210 mm(w) x 181 mm(h) MAY2020.pdf 1 10/20/20 9:22 AM

Change is possible

The impact of mining

Traditionally, metal mining has been scrutinised for the detrimental impact it can have on the environment and communities. Toxic chemicals, ecosystem contamination and poor working conditions are but a few of the issues that conflict with sustainable practice in the mining environment.

However, change is on the horizon as the industry places increasing emphasis on Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) factors as part of its growth strategies. ESG is a key topic headlining this year’s African Mining Indaba as industry players pledge to drive the change. Mines with better ESG ratings often outperform the broader market, offer enhanced shareholder value and are more attractive to investors (PwC – Mine 2021: Great expectations, seizing tomorrow). In the midst of the world movement towards a low-carbon, sustainable economy, embedding ESG into mining organisational cultures presents mines with the opportunity to build trust, grow performance and ultimately effect real change.

It does not end with mines. Further down the supply chain, refineries and jewellery manufacturers have a key role to play in the sustainability movement.

The role of refineries

As the go-between for mines and markets, refineries can also play a key role in contributing to the sustainability cycle.

Sustainable sourcing

Third party refineries should be selective in their sourcing of metals. Refineries should be opting for mines and suppliers that offer full traceability on the origin of the metals, how it

was unearthed and transparency around their business practices.

Where possible, the use of recycled metals is arguably one of the most sustainable, environmentally friendly ways to keep creating value from precious metals. Precious metals experience no degradation in the recycling and re-refining process – they simply return to their purest state. Gold and silver can be recycled indefinitely, without ever losing their quality or beauty.

Sustainable refining

Where possible, refineries can opt for methods that minimise the environmental impact. Some of these methods can include:

• Reducing waste, recycling and re-use of generated general waste.

• Reduction in energy consumption in combination with energy generation through green sources like solar or wind.

• Eliminating and preventing harmful emissions of fumes and dust to the atmosphere that can result from refining processes.

SUSTAINABLE METALS
Jewellers, consumers and investors are moving towards demanding more sustainable products and practices – and rightly so. We need to protect what the earth so generously provides to us. From mine to market, the metal supply chain can be more sustainable. We explore how the industry is changing and means to achieve a more sustainable future.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 16

The role of jewellery manufacturers

Further up the chain, jewellery casters and manufacturers should use refined metal from sources that prioritise sustainable practices in their operations, once again offering transparency and traceability. Jewellers should become more discerning in their supplier choices and manufacturing methods. Within their own operations, jewellers can also place emphasis on the use of energy-efficient tools, recycling, reducing waste, education and upskilling of people. Eco-friendly, reusable packaging is also a great way to boost sustainability practices.

Associations that help keep industry players accountable

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)

The RJC develops benchmark standards for the jewellery supply chain that verify responsible and sustainable business practices through third party auditing. The first standard is the RJC Code of Practice – which enables good ethical, social, human rights and environmental practices. The second is the RJC Chain of Custody – which enables fully traceable and responsible sourcing practices.

Sustainability is a process of continuous improvement and the RJC also challenges its members to learn more and do more. They provide useful toolkits to implement and drive corporate social responsibility and align with the UN's well-known 17 Sustainable Development Goals.

The Responsible Minerals Initiative (RMI)

The RMI is known as a critical and respected resource for the responsible sourcing of

minerals that positively impacts social economic development. The organisation aims to drive change by offering tools and resources that improve regulatory compliance across the industry and enables better sourcing decisions, especially when it comes to conflict-affected and high-risk areas.

MetCon: A South African sustainability story

Metal Concentrators (MetCon), a South African refinery specialising in local beneficiation of precious metals, places sustainability at the heart of its business practices. Its unique business model expands across the precious metal supply chain – from refining to metal supply, all the way to casting and jeweller services. The business model enables MetCon to make an impact at various touchpoints.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 17
SUSTAINABLE METALS
The MetCon refinery in the OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone optimises temperature, ventilation, electricity, water and solar to help reduce its environmental impact. It harvests and uses rainwater, runs most of its daily operations through solar energy and re-uses the majority of its waste products.

“The world is changed by our actions and the example we show others. As industry members, we have a responsibility to place sustainability at the forefront of decisionmaking across the supply chain,” says Grant Crosse, MD of MetCon.

Some of MetCon’s sustainability initiatives: Sustainable sourcing is of critical importance to MetCon. The company holds a dual certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council, complying with its Code of Practice and Chain of Custody. This represents a commitment to integrate ethical, human rights, social and environmental considerations into its day-today operations, planning and decision-making. MetCon also aims to embark on a journey in 2023 of ultimately aligning itself to a selection of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals. MetCon is also a proud member of the Responsible Minerals Initiative.

The company launched its pioneering Platinum Provenance initiative in partnership with Anglo American Platinum. The platinum used in MetCon’s manufacturing process is

mined material from South African producers and the supply chain was verified in accordance with the Responsible Jewellery Council requirements. Buyers can rest assured that the platinum was sourced responsibly and refined using processes that meet international environmental standards. MetCon hopes to use initiatives like these to educate industry partners and end-consumers on the importance of knowing the origin of its metal.

MetCon proudly and frequently utilises recycled metals, primarily gold and silver. It deals with a small group of trusted, verified suppliers from which it successfully refines recycled gold and silver up to the coveted 999,9 purity standard. By using these recycled metals, the company contributes to a circular economy, with minimal environmental impact.

When it comes to packaging, MetCon will soon be launching more sustainable, eco-friendly and re-usable alternatives to its jewellery clients.

The MetCon refinery in the OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone

aims to pave the way for green refining. The facility optimises temperature, ventilation, electricity, water and solar to help reduce its environmental impact. It harvests and uses rainwater, runs most of its daily operations through solar energy and reuses the majority of their waste products. An advanced building management system provides realtime data on energy requirements. The facility employs a double-scrubbing technology that enables the cleaning of fumes twice before the are emitted into the atmosphere. It also continuously monitors emissions according to strict European regulations.

For MetCon, sustainable business also includes the upliftment of people, from training of jewellers to cross-training and upskilling of internal staff across different business processes. The company places immense value on empowerment and instilling a culture of sustainability among its people and partners.

MetCon views sustainability as a journey; a daily intention to make better choices, for the benefit of people, products and the planet.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 18 SUSTAINABLE METALS
The world is changed by our actions and the example we show others. As industry members, we have a responsibility to place sustainability at the forefront of decision-making across the supply chain.
– Grant Crosse, MetCon MD

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Monthly educational insert

Methods and Challenges of Establishing the Geographic Origin of Diamonds

Gems & Gemology
BY FEATURE ARTICLE Fall 2022, Vol 58, No 3
Evan
SPONSORED

BOX C: “OFFLINE” LASER ABLATION TECHNIQUE

This specialized method for measuring trace elements in diamond involves a preconcentration step that allows a larger sample to be collected in a controlled fashion. It was developed by McNeill, Pearson, and colleagues at Durham University specifically for analyzing diamond (McNeill et al., 2009). The diamond is placed in an enclosed vessel with a window through which the laser can pass. Ablation takes place within this sealed vessel, allowing the ablated material to accumulate over the course of minutes or even hours. Compared to the direct uninterrupted ablation-to-analysis of LA-ICPMS, this offline sampling technique means a much larger amount of diamond, and therefore a larger sample of trace elements, can be ablated in a controlled way. The accumulated sample is then taken up in acid and analyzed by conventional solution-based ICP-MS. Analyzing solutions greatly simplifies standardization, circumventing the need for a diamond standard. Appropriate solution standards with elemental concentrations similar to that expected in diamond can easily be prepared. Weighing the diamond before and after ablation gives the mass of diamond ablated, providing a way to recast results as elemental concentrations within the diamond. Offline ablation allows much higher volumes of analyte to be preconcentrated before measurement rather than having the ablated material swept directly into a gas stream for analysis, as in LA-ICP-MS, effectively boosting what is known in analytical work as the signal-to-noise ratio by several orders of magnitude.

To measure a signal, having a strong signal and having low background noise are equally important. An example of low signal-to-noise ratio occurs when the noise from city lights prohibits the signal of distant stars from being seen by curious stargazers. In rural areas, background light is so low that even faint signals from stars can be seen.

In analytical work, scientists must pay special attention to the relative contributions of signal and noise. The limit of detection (LOD) provides a threshold level where weak signals cannot be confidently distinguished from background noise. One definition of the LOD is 3× the standard deviation of the blank/background (Currie, 1968). However, we want to know how much of the element there is, not just that it can be detected. For the exceptionally low trace element contents of most gem-quality diamonds, which may be only

marginally above the background noise, McNeill et al (2009) argued that a more stringent limit is needed: the limit of quantification (LOQ). This is defined as 7 to 10× the standard deviation of the blank/background (Currie, 1968), and it is a better cutoff to ensure that the signal seen above the background can be used to calculate element concentration. Data must exceed the LOQ (the minimum accurate quantifiable value) to be considered truly quantitative. A number of studies have reported conventional online laser ablation results from gem-quality diamonds but with such low signal-tonoise ratios that LOQ criteria could not be met (Rege et al ., 2005, 2010; Coney et al ., 2012; Brill et al ., 2020). If measurements do not exceed the LOQ, they may carry qualitative meaning, but large uncertainties will obscure comparison between samples, restricting their utility.

Offline laser ablation with ICP-MS enables quantitative trace element data for gem-quality diamond. However, the technique is not without drawbacks. The amount of diamond that must be ablated is large compared to the typical ablation crater involved in conventional LA-ICPMS of other materials. For example, analyses of most colored gem materials using LA-ICP-MS would involve a spot size of 50–100 μm, meaning that an analysis can be performed on the girdle of a valuable ruby, sapphire, or emerald and would not be visible to the unaided eye. For offline ablation ICP-MS of diamond, larger raster patterns of 500 × 500 μm are typical, extending several hundred micrometers deep into the diamond. In addition to being (partially) destructive, the technique is slow. Whereas ablation and analysis in conventional LA-ICP-MS might extend for 40–180 s, offline ablation for dia mond normally requires up to 4 hours (and in some cases up to 20–30 hours). More time is needed to carefully clean the diamond with ultra-pure acids prior to ablation, to prepare the ablated sample into a solution, and ultimately to complete the ICP-MS analysis. A hightech and expensive clean lab is necessary to minimize contamination. All samples are processed in parallel with total procedural blanks so that the combined background (or noise) of trace elements present in all acids and materials involved can be measured. The stringent requirements are such that only two laboratories have done this rigorous level of analysis for gem-quality diamond, first at Durham University and later at the University of Alberta by Pearson and colleagues.

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Returning to the more challenging analysis of gem-quality diamond, there is a modified laser ablation technique that can achieve superior results. McNeill et al. (2009) developed a sample preconcentration technique involving “offline” laser ablation (see box C; figure 5B). This technique was developed as an improvement over conventional “online” LA-ICP-MS, specifically to measure trace elements and some radiogenic isotopes in gem-quality diamond (McNeill et al., 2009; KleinBenDavid et al., 2010). Part of the aim in developing this advanced methodology was to investigate whether trace elements can be linked to specific geographic origins (McNeill, 2011).

The offline laser ablation sampling technique permits meaningful quantitative measurement of trace elements in even the purest gem-quality diamonds, although it currently requires a substantial input of time, laboratory infrastructure, and analytical expertise. This method is also moderately destructive, further barring its routine application to faceted gem diamonds. It involves ablating a relatively conspicuous “pit” on the order of 500 μm wide and several hundred micrometers deep. Only a limited number of diamond localities have been studied so far: 11 from Brazilian sublithospheric diamonds (Timmerman et al ., 2019a); 10 from Koffiefontein, Letlhakane, and Orapa (Timmerman et al ., 2019b); one from Udachnaya; one from Mir; one from Venezuela; 10 from Cullinan (McNeill et al ., 2009); 24 from Finsch, Newlands, and Victor (Krebs et al ., 2019); and 10 from Akwatia, Ghana, and the De Beers Kimberley Pool, South Africa (Melton et al ., 2012). In small sample sets, statistical analysis of variance and logistic regression suggests significant differences between populations (e.g., McNeill, 2011), but these differences appear less distinct upon analysis of a wider variety of diamonds. Differences may be apparent when considering averaged trace element patterns from different localities, or even diamonds with sulfide versus silicate inclusions from a single locality, but comparing individual diamonds shows considerable overlap from one deposit to the next (Krebs et al ., 2019). As discussed by Melton et al . (2012), some of these measurements may be skewed by the intersection of small mineral inclusions during the course of ablation, which may or may not be avoidable depending on the sample. This possibility requires additional care during ablation and later during interpretation. Although the data are limited, a key outcome of this work is the finding that many gem diamonds have trace element patterns comparable to those of fibrous diamonds (Krebs et al ., 2019; Timmerman et al ., 2019b). In support of such a connection, HDF inclusions similar to those in fibrous diamonds have been reported within nonfibrous gem-quality diamonds (from the Voorspoed and Venetia mines in South Africa, for example) trapped along

the twinning planes of macles (Jablon and Navon, 2016). These results allow us to draw on the existing literature on fibrous diamonds in the discussion of trace element use for geographic origin determination.

FIBROUS DIAMONDS BOLSTER OUR INSIGHT INTO TRACE ELEMENTS

There are marked similarities between fibrous diamonds and gem-quality nonfibrous diamonds upon comparing the major element compositions of fluid inclusions and trace element compositions of bulk diamond (Jablon and Navon, 2016; Krebs et al., 2019).

The similarities suggest that the more extensive work on trace elements in fibrous diamonds also offers insight into gemquality diamonds. Fibrous diamond trace element properties cannot be claimed as a proxy for all diamonds, as some diamond varieties are thought to be formed from distinctly different fluids, such as methane-bearing reduced fluids (Smit et al., 2016, 2019) and metallic Fe-Ni-C-S liquids (Smith et al., 2016, 2017). However, the connection between fibrous diamonds and transparent, nonfibrous diamonds formed in the lithospheric mantle applies to many mined gemquality diamonds derived from the lithospheric mantle.

AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES ISSUE 2
Figure 6. Cuboid diamond (5 mm edge length) consisting of a cloudy fibrous diamond coat over a transparent octahedral core. A partial slice has been cut through the middle, revealing the internal structure. The red rectangle outlines the region of the photomicrograph at bottom (field of view 1.5 mm), which shows a portion of the polished slice in transmitted light, with the micro-inclusions appearing as dark pinpoints. The reddish color is iron oxide staining in surface-reaching fractures. Photos by Evan M. Smith.

Fibrous diamonds are fl uid-rich diamonds that trap small droplets of the diamond-source fl uid as inclusions during growth. They have a dendritic single-crystal growth habit (like a snowflake) that grows as a set of crystallographically controlled, space-filling branches in three dimensions, typically producing an overall cuboid shape (figure 6). The chemical composition of HDF inclusions in fi brous diamonds has been measured by several methods, with electron probe microanalysis (EPMA) being the most common. HDF compositions can be described in terms of four end members (figure 7). There is a silicic end member rich in Si, K, Al, Fe, and water; a low-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Ca, Fe, K, Mg, and carbonate; a high-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Mg, Ca, Fe, K, and carbonate; and a saline end member rich in Cl, K, Na, water, and carbonate (Navon et al., 1988; Izraeli et al., 2001; Tomlinson et al., 2006; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2007; Weiss et al., 2009). Compositional variability between end members defi nes a transitional array bridging the silicic and low-Mg carbonatitic end members. The well-populated compositional array between silicic and low-Mg carbon-atitic end members may be explained in terms of nearsolidus melt compositions with varying H2O/CO2 ratios in

eclogite host rocks leading up to diamond formation (Elazar et al., 2019). In contrast, the saline and high-Mg end members are more detached in compositional space. Only a few diamonds exhibit transitional compositions between saline and high-Mg carbonatitic end members (Klein-BenDavid et al., 2006) as well as between saline and silicic end members (Tomlinson et al., 2006; Weiss et al., 2009). Trace element measurements by mass spectrometry, with both traditional LA-ICP-MS and offline laser ablation ICP-MS, reveal high degrees of trace element enrichment in the fl uids. Trace element patterns defi ne two major groupings: one that is highly irregular, with prominent enrichments or depletions of particular elements, and another that is less irregular (figure 8). Specifi cally, the more irregular group has depleted compositions of alkali (e.g., K, Rb, Cs) and high fi eld strength elements (e.g., Ta, Nb) and enriched large ion lithophile element concentrations (e.g., Ba, U, Th), while the less irregular group has lower large ion lithophile element concentrations (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2013; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2010; Smith et al., 2012;). The more irregular patterns are thought to relate to fl uid interaction with the subcontinental lithospheric mantle,

40 30 20 10 0 0 10 20 30 Saline–high-Mg carbonatitic uids Silicic–low-Mg carbonatitic uids Si + Al A B K + Na C a + Mg + Fe M AJOR ELEMENT C OMPOSITION FIELDS MgO (wt.%) C l ( wt. %) ISSUE 2
while the less irregular Figure 7. Fields of major element composition for fluids in fibrous diamonds worldwide, which are often plotted in a molar composition ternary plot (atomic proportions). A: Four major fluid end-member compositions have been identified in fibrous diamonds: saline, high-Mg carbonatitic, low-Mg carbonatitic, and silicic. B: The carbonatitic fluid compositions overlap in the ternary diagram but can be separated in a Cl vs. MgO plot. Data compiled from Izraeli et al. (2001); Klein-BenDavid et al. (2004, 2007, 2009); Kopylova et al. (2010); Schrauder and Navon (1994); Shiryaev et al. (2005); Smith et al. (2012); Tomlinson et al. (2006); Weiss et al. (2009); and Zedgeni-zov et al. (2007a).

patterns may be a signature of the convecting mantle beneath the lithosphere (Weiss et al., 2013).

By combining trace elements with strontium isotope analyses, the origin of the saline fluid end member has been linked to the involvement of subducted oceanic crust altered by seawater, because seawater is known to have a very enriched 87Sr/86Sr isotope composition (Weiss et al., 2015). Furthermore, chemical evolution of such a fluid percolating through peridotitic and eclogitic rocks in the lithosphere is proposed to account for the compositional ranges of carbonatitic and silicic fluids (Weiss et al., 2015). High-Mg carbonatitic fluids may result from nearsolidus melting in peridotite, while silicic-to-low-Mg carbonatitic fluids may reflect melting in eclogite (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2011; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2014; Elazar et al., 2019). Fibrous diamonds therefore provide a key signal of the input of subduction-derived seawater fluids for fibrous diamond growth. These fluids may also lead to metasomatism of the lithospheric mantle (Miller et al., 2014; Weiss et al., 2015).

Fibrous diamonds and their purer gem-quality diamond counterparts therefore reveal two overarching trace element patterns, thought to reflect two major geological processes governing their formation in the mantle. Measurements in both fibrous and gem diamonds show that diamonds from different deposits can have similar patterns. For example, a striking

similarity in trace element patterns has been found between suites of fibrous diamonds from two different Canadian deposits: the Wawa area of Ontario and the Ekati mine in the Northwest Territories (Smith et al., 2012). These findings suggest it might not be uncommon to encounter instances where complete overlap precludes an origin determination on the basis of trace elements alone. Conversely, diamonds from the same deposit can have dissimilar patterns, which is not surprising given the fact that many deposits contain multiple diamond populations with geologically distinct sources in the mantle.

Laser-Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy. As a comparatively new analytical technique applied to diamond, LIBS might offer an alternative way to capture chemical characteristics. It involves focusing a rapidly pulsed laser (the same kind as used for LA-ICP-MS) onto the sample to form a plasma and analyzing the spectrum of light emitted to reveal the characteristic wavelengths from elemental and molecular emissions (figure 5C; Senesi, 2014; Harmon and Senesi, 2021). The laser spot size is normally tens to hundreds of micrometers in diameter. Typical detection limits for most elements are in the tens of ppm range (Harmon and Senesi, 2021), but modified techniques such as double-pulse LIBS or nanoparticle-enhanced LIBS can potentially increase the signal-to-noise ratio and lower the detection limits (Koral et al., 2018).

Figure 8. Trace element patterns in diamond define two prominent categories. One is a more irregular pattern with conspicuous enrichments or depletions of particular elements, while the other is less irregular. Trace element measurements from both fibrous diamonds and gem-quality diamonds can be highly variable, but they consistently exhibit characteristics of these two end members or their combinations, regardless of geographic provenance. The horizontal axis shows trace elements of geologic interest, while the vertical axis shows their concentration, normalized to primitive mantle model concentrations of McDonough and Sun (1995). Plotted data show fibrous diamond analyses from Weiss et al. (2013).

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10 1 100 1000 10,000 More irregular pattern Less irregular pattern CONCENTRATION/PRIMITIVE MANTLE DIAMOND TRACE ELEMENT PATTERNS
Cs Rb Ba Th U K Ta Nb La Ce Pr Sr Nd Sm Hf Zr Eu Ti Gd Tb Dy Y Ho E r Tm Yb Lu

LIBS has a wide range of applications and has been used previously to characterize major and trace elements in a variety of gemstones (Rossi et al., 2014), including efforts toward origin determination of ruby and sapphire (Kochelek et al., 2015). For gem-quality diamonds, most element concentrations fall well below LIBS detection limits. Nevertheless, each spectrum captures a complex combination of signals whose peak shapes and positions are affected by many variables.

Multivariate statistical analysis can be used to recognize shared or differentiating features among sample suites (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). It is possible to compare entire emission spectra for differences, which can potentially be used to recognize geological and geographical patterns, even if the spectra are not deconvoluted into properties such as trace element concentrations. This is a powerful capability of LIBS spectroscopy. Upon comparing spectra, however, it is crucial to account for the fact that spectra collected in multiple analytical sessions can have significant differences arising from day-to-day changes—for example, in temperature, humidity, laser stability, and so on. To ensure data reliability, for LIBS or any other technique, it should be possible to measure a specimen multiple times, independently, and reproduce the same result.

One pilot study has attempted to use LIBS to distinguish diamonds by their different geographic origins. In this initial study involving multiple suites of 30 natural diamonds each, sourced from 12 different localities, plus two suites of laboratory-grown diamonds, McManus et al. (2020) proposed that it was possible to discriminate between the diamonds from different sources. Variable elemental emissions were observed from H, C, N, Na, Mg, Al, Si, K, Ca, Ti, V, Cr, Fe, Co, Ni, Cu, Sr, Ba, O, Ne, and Ar (the carrier gas). However, these analyses were performed on natural rough surfaces cleaned only with isopropyl alcohol rather than extensive acid leaching (compare with McNeill et al., 2009), which means the LIBS spectra could include surface contamination (that could in itself be origin-specific). Even after apparently ablating down through the surface with successive laser pulses, lingering foreign materials on the diamond surface and in shallow surface-reaching fractures could overwhelm the comparatively scant abundance of trace elements actually inside a diamond.

Regardless, a significant differentiating factor in the McManus et al. (2020) LIBS data lies with molecular C-C and C-N emissions (from the two most abundant elements in diamond, C and N), not just trace element characteristics. It is not clear what information these C-C and C-N peaks contain. Potentially, the C-C and C-N molecular emissions vary as a function of carbon and nitrogen isotope composition. Isotopic shifts in

optical features are orders of magnitude greater for molecular emissions than for atomic emissions (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). The C-C and C-N peaks may also vary with nitrogen concentration and nitrogen aggregation state. However, many measurements of these carbon- and nitrogen-related variables from previous studies using other methods do not show geographic distinctions (e.g., figures 3 and 4). Although it is possible that C-C and C-N emissions, perhaps under the influence of trace elements or lattice defects, contain rich and complex information, the specific constituents with the potential to convey geographic differences remain uncertain. It is also unclear how to ensure data quality without first understanding the meaning of spectral features of interest.

Alternatively, the observed C-N peaks reported by McManus et al. (2020) could reflect small and variable contributions from atmospheric nitrogen contaminating the argon gas flowing over the sample surface. This possibility cannot be dismissed, because the study did not include any nitrogen-free diamond samples or standards or measurements of the possible dynamically variable trace nitrogen content of the atmosphere in the ablation chamber. Also, the sensitivity of LIBS to nitrogen in diamond remains unclear. An unrelated study comparing point analyses in different crystallographic sectors of a laboratory-grown diamond found differing C-C and C-N emission intensities that were argued to correlate with different assumed nitrogen concentrations (Lebedev et al., 2020), but again it is difficult to entirely rule out atmospheric influences. Without more details of the analytical routine and data handling, it is difficult to evaluate the results.

As with any spot analysis, LIBS spectra collected from a single point may fail to account for internal heterogeneity. Diamonds often have heterogeneous growth layers in terms of nitrogen concentration, nitrogen isotope composition, and carbon isotope composition that may lead to non-uniform C-C and C-N emissions. The pilot study of McManus et al. (2020) does not appear to have explored spatial variations within samples. In addition to heterogeneity within individual diamonds, it is also important to account for the fact that many diamond mines contain multiple populations with distinct properties. Future studies should attempt to capture these variables.

A further challenge with LIBS is that the spectra contain artifacts specific to the instrument used, meaning spectra collected on a given instrument are best compared against others collected with the same equipment (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). Although LIBS offers many appealing aspects as an analytical tool, such as speed and simplicity, its suitability for evaluating and comparing gem-quality diamonds remains to be demonstrated.

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PRESERVING GEOGRAPHIC ORIGIN INFORMATION FROM THE TIME OF MINING

As an alternative to inferring origin based on an independent assessment of diamond properties, finding a way to preserve this information from mine to market offers some advantages. If the origin is retained and certified through documentation or other means, it can be stated as a fact rather than as an inference or opinion, and it avoids the potential problem of multiple localities having diamonds with unresolvable, overlapping physical and geochemical characteristics. Perhaps the greatest advantage is that it is a simple and straightforward approach that can be accomplished with existing tools, albeit with logistical challenges.

There are now several industry initiatives for diamond traceability, given increasing attention to corporate governance, environmental impact, and social responsibility. For example, De Beers has developed a traceability initiative called Tracr that uses blockchain, a secure digital record of transactions, to allow a given diamond to be traced from mine to market. Lucara has its own blockchain traceability with Clara Diamond Solutions. Alrosa has developed a laser nanomark (capable of being read at any time) to identify its rough diamonds in a way that survives cutting and polishing. Rio Tinto developed a traceability program to track diamonds from its Argyle mine (now closed) through the supply chain. Ultimately, traceability initiatives should encompass diamonds from both large-scale and artisanal miners. There is arguably a need for independent verification of origin information by third parties not involved in the sale of diamonds. Several such companies offer ways to verify traceability from mines, through the supply chain, including Everledger, using blockchain; diamond technology company Sarine, with Diamond Journey Traceability; and SCS Global Services, through their SCS-007 standard, which involves verifying supply chain documentation as well as collecting chemical information (through a partnered laboratory using LA-ICP-MS). GIA also provides a provenance service called the Diamond Origin Report, which matches the physical and spectral characteristics of a polished stone with that of a previously submitted rough diamond from a disclosed locality. More recently, the Institute launched the GIA Source Verification Service, which verifies origin information using supply chain documents and invoices from vetted manufacturers and provides this information through its online GIA Report Check service.

This level of investment in traceability by multiple stakeholders is a promising step forward. Preserving the geographic origin information is an exciting prospect not only for consumers, but also for diamond geologists. Just like fossils, meteorites,

and mineral specimens, diamonds have a greater value to the consumer and to the scientist when they can be tied back to a specific community, geological setting, age, or process.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

Relative to mantle-derived diamond, gem minerals that formed in the crust are more amenable to inferring provenance on the basis of trace element analysis. Crustal minerals tend to incorporate higher concentrations of trace elements as they grow, and there is inherently more geochemical variability in crustal rocks (see the G&G Winter 2019 special issue on origin determination for colored gemstones). For example, trace elements have been widely employed with reasonable success for discriminating the mine of origin for ruby and sapphire (Saminpanya et al., 2003; Abduriyim and Kitawaki, 2006; Peucat et al., 2007; Pornwilard et al., 2011; Harlow and Bender, 2013; Sutherland et al., 2015). But even under these more favorable circumstances, when two different localities offer similar geological settings there can still be problematic overlap in trace element characteristics, such as for deposits of marbletype ruby and metamorphic blue sapphire (Krebs et al., 2020). The recognized and resolvable varieties of natural diamond based on all measurable properties correspond to geological variables such as host rock type, the pressure and temperature conditions of crystal growth, and the composition of diamondforming fluids. Generally these resolvable varieties, such as gem-quality lithospheric peridotitic or eclogitic diamonds, are not restricted to a single geographic origin. Instead, they occur across multiple deposits on a global scale, and multiple varieties can be observed within a single deposit.

Diamonds from different deposits can have indistinguishable trace element characteristics, and diamonds from the same deposit can have marked dissimilarities. The underlying patterns that have been recognized within trace element data are associated with geological processes, irrespective of geographic origin. If there are features unique to individual deposits, they must be subtle features, masked by the more pronounced overarching geological variations that are responsible for characteristics such as inclusion mineralogy or the appearance of enriched versus non-enriched trace element patterns. Observations to date suggest that trace element analysis may not be a definitive approach for inferring diamond origin. Although current techniques to quantitatively analyze trace elements in diamond are time-consuming, expensive, and somewhat destructive to the sample, these are not the principal hindrances. Even well-controlled, quantitative measurements made using offline laser ablation techniques do not appear to show distinct signatures associated with different mines. In other words, future improvements to

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methods for measuring trace elements are not necessarily expected to resolve this issue—and even if they could, it might not translate into a feasible routine service for faceted gem-quality diamonds. Importantly, any methodology must be capable of scaling up from preliminary studies involving hundreds of diamonds to high-quality datasets involving hundreds of millions of diamonds in order to be viable for commercial origin determination.

Given the interest and importance of this issue, it may be worth further exploring a combination of techniques using large sample suites. GIA continues to actively investigate this challenge to see whether some level of origin determination is possible, even if the odds of success appear to be low. For now, however, all reliable and rigorous services to establish the geographic origin of a diamond depend on retaining country-oforigin and/or mine-of-origin information from mine to market, rather than attempting determination through independent geochemical analysis.

In short, the absence of a feasible method to accurately determine diamond origin is due to a combination of geological and analytical limitations:

1. Diamonds from different mines often form by comparable geological processes in the mantle and have overlapping physical and chemical characteristics.

2. Trace element data collected to date, though necessarily limited, show no clear evidence of distinct geographic signatures.

3. Even if the initial results were encouraging, the only proven method for quantitative trace element analysis of gemquality diamond is prohibitively slow, expensive, high-tech, and destructive. These limitations preclude a large globalscale investigation into origin discrimination.

References:

https://www.gia.edu/doc/fall-2022-geographicorigin-diamonds.pdf

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Dr. Smith is a research scientist specializing in diamond geology at GIA in New York. Dr. Smit is a senior lecturer in diamond geol-ogy and isotope geochemistry at the University of the Witwater-srand, South Africa. Dr. Shirey is a senior staff scientist in geology/isotope geochemistry at the Earth & Planets Laboratory at the Carnegie Institution for Science in Washington, DC.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The authors wish to thank D. Graham Pearson, Ingrid Chinn, and an anonymous reviewer for their constructive comments, as well as Mandy Krebs, Michael C. Jollands, Barbara Dutrow, John Val-ley, Jeffrey Post, James Shigley, Catherine McManus, and R. John Watling for their valuable feedback and suggestions that helped to improve this manuscript.

Since 1930 GIA’s quarterly journal, Gems & Gemology publishes the latest peer-reviewed research on diamonds and coloured stones – where they are found, their special characteristics, simulants and synthetics, treatments and identification techniques.

Each issue includes feature articles, in-depth research about gem inclusions, book reviews and the latest news from the GIA Laboratory and around the world.

GIA pursues a wide range of scientific investigations to gather and analyse data on gemstones, identifying practical solutions to gemmological challenges and communicating their findings.

Gems & Gemology is a free service and is only available in English.

Current and past issues of Gems & Gemology are available for purchase through the GIA store

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Sustainability, business and innovation at centre of Vicenzaoro January

The latest products, trends and consumer lifestyles, as well as the industry’s commitment to sustainability and training, were the focus of Vicenzaoro January – The Jewellery Boutique Show (VOJ), which took place from 20-24 January alongside T.Gold, the international event for jewellery machinery and technologies, at the Vicenza Expo Centre.

VICENZAORO JANUARY – THE JEWELLERY Boutique Show (VOJ) confirmed its role as a forum for discussing the industry’s major themes, as well as an international trend show at the event which opened the sector’s world calendar of business appointments. The Italian Exhibition Group’s trade show, alongside T.Gold and VO VINTAGE, the event of reference for fine vintage watches and jewellery, attracted the most authoritative voices in the gold and jewellery sector to Italy.

VOJ offered the industry a chance to analyse production and market data, which thus far has confirmed an upward trend in exports compared with 2020 and 2019. Club degli Orafi and Intesa San Paolo’s Studies & Research Department presented an economic analysis of the performance of national gold and jewellery supply chains, international demand for precious metals, the effects of the complex international scenario on the sector and the cost of raw materials.

A valid opportunity to establish a dialogue between the needs, way of life and background of new consumers and the jewellery supply chain was the focus of the event organised by Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting, IEG’s independent observatory directed by Paola de Luca that explores consumer

evolution in the luxury segment. With a panel of international guests from the fields of design, art and jewellery culture, the meeting – entitled “Dreamscape” – investigated the widespread desire to escape from reality, enter virtual atmospheres and travel into the dream which crosses society and is transmitted to consumer choices.

A privileged observatory of the luxury segment, VOJ – in collaboration with Assogemme – organised an encounter with Dominique Dufermont, Director of Dior Couture’s Stone Service, to explore the points of contact and the increasingly blurred boundaries between haute couture and jewellery. Aesthetic excellence, technical expertise, professionalism and a multi-faceted approach were at the heart of the event.

CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, confirmed its presence at Vicenzaoro with two days of seminars dedicated to the themes of sustainability and corporate social responsibility according to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals. The programme focused particularly on the contribution of women to the industry, with the presence of Ivana Ciabatti, CEO and President of Italpreziosi, one of the world’s 100 women in the mining sector awarded for their sustainable impact in the Women in

Mining UK special classification, “100 Global Inspirational Women in Mining”.

Processing and technological applications, research and development in alloys and new materials, phygital jewellery and the digital transformation of certifications, as well as financial trends and sustainability in jewellery, were the focus of the Jewellery Technology Forum (JTF), the international conference organised by IEG in collaboration with the Legor Group. This was a unique training event, with the participation of researchers and experts from Europe and overseas.

Last, but not least, VOJ also focused on training new generations in order to attract young people to a career in the gold and jewellery field. Talents and young designers were the main feature of the HRD Design Awards, the international jewellery design competition promoted by HRD Antwerp with the high patronage of CIBJO, in partnership with Vicenzaoro.

Another activity was also dedicated to future gold and jewellery professionals: VOJ opened its doors to middle and high schools in the area for a special open day organised by Confindustria Federorafi, in collaboration with the Province of Vicenza, that included discussions with sector protagonists and witness accounts from current workers.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 29 INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Gold industry commits to responsibility and sustainability

The gold industry has come together, convened by the World Gold Council and the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA), to sign a Declaration of Responsibility and Sustainability Principles which formally expresses a shared commitment to operating in a responsible and sustainable way, based on clear set of shared goals.

THE DECLARATION, SIGNED BY KEY participants in the global gold industry, was announced at the LBMA/LPPM Global Precious Metals Conference in Lisbon, Portugal, at the end of last year.

Signatories to the declaration are the LBMA, the World Gold Council, the World Jewellery Confederation, the Artisanal Gold Council, the Responsible Jewellery Council, the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, the Singapore Bullion Market Association, the China Gold Association, the Swiss Association of Previous Metals Producers & Traders, the London Metal Exchange, the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, the Indian Gold Policy Centre, the Indian Bullion & Jewellery Association and the Indian International Bullion Exchange.

In all, the group has agreed to 10 key sustainability objectives, including commitments to responsible sourcing standards, respect for human rights, the advancement of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and action and disclosures on climate change.

“Gold industry participants understand that environmental and social concerns are increasingly important in shaping investment and policy decisions, as well as wider consumer and societal expectations,” says the LBMA. “While there’s been significant progress in addressing many issues through industry-led initiatives and performance standards, it’s important and timely that the gold sector adopts a clear collective statement of awareness and intent.”

As part of the commitment to the declaration, signatories agreed to closer collaboration and reporting on progress in the implementation of these principles. They

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 30 SUSTAINABILITY PRINCIPLES

will also be able to demonstrate their commitment through adherence to initiatives which are designed for specific activities within the supply chain, such as the World Gold Council’s Responsible Gold Mining Principles and the LBMA’s Responsible Gold Guidance.

Building on the declaration, gold industry players will continue to work with governments, international organisations, other private-sector actors and civil society to define and support robust standards of integrity and governance.

“The gold supply chain is complex and global, and industry participants are on different stages of their sustainability journey,” says Ruth Crowell, CEO of the LBMA. “I’m pleased that we’ve been able to define a shared pathway to progress and unite our industry around these principles. By coming together in this way, we can demonstrate our collective commitment to responsible and sustainable business practices.”

“It’s very pleasing to see the gold industry co-operate in this way, from mine to market, to commit to these Principles of Responsibility and Sustainability,” adds David Tait, CEO of the World Gold Council. “The gold industry has made great progress in recent years in ensuring that

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 31 SUSTAINABILITY PRINCIPLES
While there’s been significant progress in addressing many issues through industry-led initiatives and performance standards, it’s important and timely that the gold sector adopts a clear collective statement of awareness and intent.

gold is responsibly produced, but there’s still plenty of work to be done to ensure we work together to identify solutions and maximise our beneficial impacts. I believe this is just the starting point, as we move to improve collaboration across the supply chain for the benefit of all stakeholders, end-users and the future of the gold industry.”

The 10 sustainability principles

The Declaration of Responsibility and Sustainability Principles plays a unique role in the global economy by stimulating economic growth, protecting the financial security of nations, communities and families and enabling advances in medical, environmental and communication technologies.

Public trust is fundamental to the many positive contributions that gold makes to socio-economic progress.

Gold is mined on every continent except Antarctica and refined in numerous countries, while products containing gold are distributed across the globe in multiple sectors.

The gold industry has an opportunity to demonstrate and expand its contributions to sustained socio-economic development through its commitment to high standards of responsible and sustainable business practices, as well as continuous improvement.

As such, it commits to the following 10 principles:

1. Aligning gold industry practices and operations with the relevant responsible sourcing standards.

2. Supporting the advancement of the UN’s SDGs by working with partners in government, industry and civil society.

3. Respecting human rights by aligning its

activities with the UN’s guiding principles for business and human rights and the core labour rights of the International Labour Organisation, including an absolute commitment to high safety and health standards.

4. Promoting diversity, equity and inclusion in its organisations and supporting the representation and participation of people of different genders, ages, races and ethnicities, abilities and disabilities, religions, cultures and sexual orientations.

5. Considering the impact of the gold industry’s activities on indigenous peoples and other potentially vulnerable populations.

6. Improving the industry’s understanding of its impact on climate change and reporting its positions on that change, aligned with the recommendations of the taskforce on climate-related financial disclosures.

7. Working to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions, in line with the goals of the Paris Agreement.

8. Exploring opportunities to support responsible artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) in the formalisation of the sector, to improve its environmental, social and governance performance, and to encourage closer engagement between ASGM actors and the formal gold supply chain.

9. Encouraging industry-wide participation and collaboration in advancing and implementing these principles.

10. Reporting on progress in the implementation of these principles.

Demonstrating alignment with the principles

The declaration is intended as a clear statement of sectoral aspiration and intent. In most instances, gold market participants who want to demonstrate their commitment to the declaration will do so through their adherence to initiatives that are designed for their specific activity in the supply chain.

Specifically, it should be noted that:

• Gold mining companies can demonstrate their alignment with the declaration through adherence to the World Gold Council’s Responsible Gold Mining Principles.

• Gold refining companies can demonstrate their alignment with the declaration through adherence to the LBMA’s Responsible Gold Guidance.

As support for the declaration grows, the World Gold Council and the LBMA expect a range of industry reference and proof points to be identified to demonstrate the ongoing progress and alignment of the wider gold industry with these principles.

– www.responsiblejewellery.com

SUSTAINABILITY PRINCIPLES
For all brand marketing and advertising, contact Thuli on (011) 883-4627 or e-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za INVEST IN YOUR BRAND NOW A “brilliant recovery”: a global diamond industry report The most famous diamonds ever found (GIA) Measuring the lab-grown diamond market De Beers’ Venetia mine in Limpopo: what its transition meant for the mining giant and SA COMING IN YOUR Diamond Edition APRIL ISSUE

What is e-waste and why does it matter?

Beautiful jewellery need not come at a cost to the environment, which is where local jewellery designer Ashley Heather, founder of AuTerra, finds inspiration. Hand-making sustainable silver and gold minimalist and botanical-inspired jewellery in precious metals recycled from e-waste, she explains what e-waste is and why it matters.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 34 ETHICAL JEWELLERY

MIX ONE PART SILVER NUGGETS WITH ONE part roaring flame and what results is a lifelong obsession. It all started with that single crucible of shimmering, glowing metal. In 2010, armed with a fine arts degree and no clue about my next move, I signed up for a part-time jewellery course for no real reason. Twenty minutes in, I was filling out the paperwork to study jewellery design and manufacture full-time.

This impulsiveness was completely out of character and, looking back, an even clearer sign that I had found, quite by accident, the craft I wanted to spend my life perfecting. Now for the problem: I have always been a passionate advocate for sustainability. I grew up with and was later involved with amazing NGOs working towards social and environmental justice. I had seen first-hand what unchecked mining does to communities and landscapes – but here I was, about to embark on a career in one of the most fraught industries in the world. Say what!?

It seemed that the only way to bring my passion for sustainability and my newly discovered obsession with the craft of jewellery-making together was by forging my own path. So I took the leap and started making jewellery using silver recycled from photographic waste in the unused half of my grandparents’ garage. The rest of AuTerra’s story is about years of hard work, late-night research and serendipitous connections.

AuTerra partnered with our e-waste refiner in 2015 and we made our very first ring out of gold recycled from e-waste in the summer of that year. It was the first in the world at the time.

Since those early days, we have grown into a small team of passionate hands specialising in minimalist jewellery crafted in precious metals reclaimed from circuit boards by a small refinery right here in SA. We believe in slow fashion, mindful consumption and style that transcends trends. Our contemporary designs are pared down to their essential elements; simplicity and quality craftmanship become as timeless as the materials themselves.

Electronic waste (e-waste) is a collective term for electronic devices (from aeroplane cockpit consoles to the cellphone on which you are probably reading this) that are broken, unwanted or reaching the end of

their useful lives.

E-waste is not a new phenomenon: we have been discarding electronic products since Thomas Edison patented the electric lightbulb. In recent years, however, e-waste has been getting more attention, not for its novelty, but for the dizzying speed at which mounds of it are piling up.

With more and more people worldwide joining the digital revolution and the speed of technological advances (and the

subsequent obsolescence of “old models) showing no sign of slowing down, e-waste has become the fastest-growing municipal waste stream in the world.

Just think of the evolution from VCR to DVD, to the streaming services on which we now consume most of our media. The VCR,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 35 ETHICAL JEWELLERY

invented in 1956, was a technology that was with us for 40 years before the DVD replaced it in 1996. A mere 14 years later, streaming services hit the market and 24 short years after its invention, the DVD is all but obsolete. There is always a newer model or service hitting the market, with features that seem too enticing to resist, requiring greater and greater amounts of resources to satisfy demand and ramping up the amount of e-waste generated.

Currently only 12,5% of e-waste is recycled and the balance of these unwanted products ends up in landfills. Aside from the obvious waste of resources (gold and silver being among them), the amount of e-waste ending up in our landfills takes a serious environmental and human toll. In their solid state, electronic devices are not considered toxic to consumers, but the lead, cadmium and mercury they contain are released as they begin to degrade. These leache into the soil and groundwater, posing serious health risks to both humans and wildlife.

By recycling the precious metals we already have above ground, we are not only preventing the issue of hazardous e-waste, but lessening the need for mining of virgin ore – which, of course, exacts its own social and ecological toll. Urban mining, a circular approach to materials which view’s a city’s

waste resources as a “mine”, can actually yield more value than mining virgin ore. One ton of circuit boards is estimated to contain 40 times more gold than one ton of ore.

E-waste recycling is on the rise, creating many jobs at a time when increased automation and mine closures have seen a drastic decrease in employment in that sector. Thinking of resources as part of the circular economy, rather than as materials to be extracted and then discarded, is a win for job creation, ecosystems, wildlife and the economy.

Our hope is to return to a view of jewellery as heirlooms worthy of passing down; not just of the objects themselves, but also of a more just world in which our future generations can wear them.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 36 ETHICAL JEWELLERY
In their solid state, electronic devices are not considered toxic to the consumer, but the lead, cadmium and mercury they contain are released as they begin to degrade. These leach into the soil and groundwater, posing serious health risks to both humans and wildlife.
N°117

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts

 Gemstones are not the same as crystals. Gems are defined by their element and the quality of the item itself, while crystals can be made up of any element and are classified by their geometric shapes.

 Prada launched its first-ever jewellery collection in 2022. Each item is crafted from 100% certified recycled gold and is traceable through a chip embedded in a 100% recycled paper card that comes with the piece.

 One account of the origin of the word "watch" suggests that it came from the Old English word "woecce", which meant "watchman", because town watchmen used watches to keep track of their shifts.

 The ancient town of Mogok boasts a reputation for luscious red rubies. These Burmese rubies are celebrated for their pure red hue, with just enough translucency in them to allow light to bounce around inside. A top-quality Mogok ruby is distinguished by a slightly purple hue to its vividly saturated red.

 In the early 1900s, a beautiful necklace composed of 61 flawless, blush-pink pearls was being transported from Paris to a British jeweller named Max Mayer. The exquisite necklace was well known and dubbed the "Mona Lisa of Pearls". However, upon receiving the necklace, Max Mayer found the pearls were missing and instead discovered lumps of sugar in their place!

 It is rarer to find a one ounce nugget of gold than a five carat diamond.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023

DID YOU KNOW?

 The depth of an aquamarines's colour is influenced by the amount of iron found in each gem's structure. The fluctuating iron levels are why the colour varies so much from stone to stone. Darker-hued blues and greenish-blues tend to be the most valued of the aquamarine stones.

 The British Museum has gold earrings from Egypt that date back to the 19th Dynasty (1200-1186 BC). However, some archaeologists suggest that earrings may have been worn primarily by children, as evidenced by the earrings commonly found in the tombs of child kings.

 Since its first-ever pageant in 1952, the Miss Universe competition has bestowed its winners with a stunning crown made of some of the world’s most precious materials, including diamonds. Throughout the pageant’s history, 10 crowns have been made or passed onto the event and placed upon the head of the winner. The crown itself has an astonishing monetary value. When it was first unveiled, it was reported that it was worth $5m –a jaw-dropping R70,4 million.

 In the USA and Canada, people write "jewelry". However, other English-speaking countries write it "jewellery". This is because Americans have simplified many words over the years, removing extra or unneeded letters, but both are technically correct.

Zwischgold is a blend of both silver and gold, formed into a foil that was commonly used as a coating or gilding material for medieval objects and paintings.

 In 1919, Tolkowsky published his thesis titled: Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond. In this publication, he described how he used mathematics to calculate the ideal proportions for maximising the brilliance and fire of a round cut diamond. The diamond industry embraced this study and has used it to reach even better results over time.

 Zambia has four copper smelters in total, making it number one on the continent in terms of copper smelting capacity. Despite the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) being Africa's largest copper producer, Zambia leads in terms of the amount of minerals it has the capacity to smelt at home.

39
SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023
Silver Linings Nowserving fabulousness! withwin Storybook ADT210022 SAJN Cover image V3.indd 1 4/20/21 2:03 PM R36,00 (incl VAT) MAY • Pearl quality 101 • From humble beginnings to bespoke jewellery designer • How to market across generations S A Jewellery News se vingthe diamond andjewe r dnyrtsu 93 Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd T: 011 883 4627 www.isikhova.co.za it's colour QUALITY CONCRETE IN ABUNDANCE – ON SITE, ON TIME, EVERY TIME 04 LABOUR IN REMOTE SITES 28 DECARBONISING YOUR BUSINESS 36 FEBRUARY 2023 | No 1167 1 THE SA JEWELLERY BRANDS PORTFOLIO 1. SA JEWELLERY NEWS (SAJN) Official magazine of the Jewellery Council of South Africa Monthly Print and online 2. JZA – YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SA’s first and only, dedicated consumer-retail magazine Online 3. SA JEWELLERY NEWS ‘CONNECT’ BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY THE industry’s quick reference and smart go-to guide connecting the South African diamond and jewellery industries. Bi-annually Print and online 4. JEWELLERY BIZ NEWS (JBN) Distributed electronically, JBN features the latest developments in the jewellery and associated sectors – both locally and internationally. Weekly E-newsletter
O ciallyendorsedby theJewelleryCouncilof SouthAfrica(JCSA) Regency Silver Linings serving fabulousness! Magical charms withTsogoSun win Rocks Storybook 2021 The SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio is published by Isikhova Media who are recognised as the leading publishing authority in the jewellery industry. All titles are officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa and offer advertisers extensive trade and consumer market reach. www.jewellerysa.co.za BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY AUTUMN WINTER 2023 SPRING 2022 O ciallyendorsedby theJewelleryCouncilof SouthAfrica(JCSA) it's
2 3 4 PORTFOLIO For more information about our products or if you would like to advertise in any of our publications contact JENNY jenny@isikhova.co.za 083 450 6052 or 011 883 4627
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Are you a member of the JCSA? Manufacturers, wholesalers, and suppliers receive FREE participation on the online platform valid until the end of July 2023. Your opportunity to sell to the local and international trade! Sign up now! https://jewellex365.co.za exhibitor-registration/ Africaʼs Premier Jewellery & Watch Virtual Trade Platform For more information contact: Elsa da Silva | elsad@jewellery.org.za | 082 214 0028 Building Relationships and Generating Business

Your blue gemstone guide

Tourmaline

The most famous tourmaline was “Kismet”, a 10,91ct gem set with diamonds in a platinum ring by Michael A Saldivar. This vivid greenish-blue (called “neon blue” in the trade) tourmaline was discovered in Paraíba, Brazil, a locality famous for producing vibrant blue to green tourmalines coloured by copper.

shade sometimes described as robin’segg blue. Turquoise is one of humankind’s longest-loved gems and is considered a sacred gemstone in many cultures. In the American south-west, Navajo, Zuni and Hopi artisans are well-known for their creations of beautiful turquoise jewellery.

Aquamarine

In previous centuries, it was believed to calm waves and keep sailors safe at sea. March’s birthstone was also thought to enhance the happiness of marriages. The best gems combine high clarity with limpid transparency and blue to slightly greenish-blue hues. Like many beryls, aquamarine forms large crystals suitable for sizeable fashioned gems and carvings.

Interesting fact: The name “aquamarine” is derived from two Latin words: “aqua”, meaning “water” and “marina”, meaning “of the sea”.

Tanzanite

Tanzanite is the violet-blue to blue-violet variety of the mineral zoisite. It is mined commercially in only one area of the world: the Merelani hills of Tanzania, from which it gets its name. Tanzanite’s appearance is greatly influenced by its pleochroism, which is the ability of a gemstone to show different colours when viewed in different crystal directions. Tanzanite’s pleochroism was documented in scientific papers not long after its discovery.

Interesting fact: Today most tanzanites are heat-treated, which removes or reduces the yellow-green or brownish pleochroic colour, maximising the blue and violet.

Interesting fact: Tourmalines become electrically charged when exposed to heat or pressure – phenomena called “pyroelectricity” and “piezoelectricity” respectively.

Turquoise

December’s birthstone comes in several blue hues, including an intense medium

Interesting fact: Once abundant in southwest USA (and Arizona, in particular), many turquoise mines are becoming depleted as gem-quality material grows in popularity across that country and Europe.

Sapphire

Sapphire is a classic blue gemstone and a favourite among many. The brooch pictured here features the “Starry Night” sapphire, a beautiful example of a truly mesmerising phenomenon: a six-rayed star. This 111,96ct unheated Burmese stone is reminiscent of the blue sky in Vincent van Gogh’s eponymous painting and evokes a similar dreamy quality.

Interesting fact: One of the best-known sapphires is in the engagement ring that belonged to the late Princess Diana and has now been passed down to Catherine, Princess of Wales.

Fancy blue diamonds

Blue diamonds are extremely rare, exquisitely beautiful and rich in lore. This special combination has made them coveted by diamond-lovers and jewellery connoisseurs. The “BVLGARI Blue” ring features a 10,95ct fancy vivid blue diamond set with a 9,87ct G-colour diamond. It fetched an impressive US$15,76 million at Christie’s New York in September 2010.

Interesting fact: Only one diamond in 10 000 is a coloured one, making these wonders among the rarest and costliest of all gemstones.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 43 GEMSTONES BY COLOUR
For several centuries, people have adorned themselves in glittering blue stones – and the trend continues to this day.
Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services. For further information, visit: www.gia.edu.

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Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za

Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net

Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za

Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS

T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za

Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za

Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za

Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za

Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

(022)

BRAND SUPPORTERS

J.P.P.E

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS www.jppe.co.za

info@jppe.co.za

(021) 424-7764

JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA)

Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za

lornal@jewelleyr.org.za

(011) 484-5528

JZA – YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

jza@isikhova.co.za

(011) 883-4627

METAL CONCENTRATORS www.metcon.co.za

melynda@metcon.co.za

(012) 000-2442

NAMAQUA MOISSANITE www.namaquamoissanite.com

sales@nammoissanite.com

081-873-6456

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC www.piyuvejewellers.co.za

aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za

(031) 301-3963

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.solitairemagazine.com

subscription@media-group.com

+65-6446-6888

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

simone.efune@mweb.co.za

(011) 334-4529

SM WATCH

www.smwatch.co.za

smwatch.iafrica.com

(012) 326-5996

SOLITAIRE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za

info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za

(012) 035-0260

THE TANZANITE COMPANY www.tanzanitecompany.co.za

marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za

warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za

082-601-3621 / 083-231-8919

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MARCH 2023 48 FEATURED
AA WATCH WHOLESALERS CC aaww@lantic.net (012) 342-8978/9 EGL SOUTH AFRICA www.egl.co.za admin@egl.co.za
BYL DIAMONDS
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Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite FoundationTM certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite BlueTM jewellery. www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029

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