MAY 2012
south african jewellery news
The industry's only trade journal
www.sivanadiamonds.co.za
Inhorgenta Munich 2012
SAJN speaks to entrepreneur Raymond Weil
Gross margin – a key to profitability Global jewellery crime investigators turn to GIA
Spinning Jewelry is a Danish self-assembly concept in Sterling Silver, Gold, Gemstones, and Pearls. For trade queries contact Sutherland & Goodman (Pty)Ltd (011) 483 0102. Email : info@sutherlandgoodman.co.za
PlatAfrica Romance Collection 2011 The headpiece: The veil is a laser-welded platinum wire construction, representing purity, which is mirrored by the purity of platinum. In almost every culture the veil has a specific meaning and plays an important role in the wedding ceremony.
A small, handmade fine jewellery business consisting of Noeline Kruger-Angove (a multi award-winning designer since 2001) and Michael Angove (a goldsmith since 1983). In an ever growing and changing industry, where time is of the essence, they offer laser technology! Lazer Options are the sole agents for Siro-Lasertec, manufacturers and worldwide distributers of top quality laser machines. SiroLasertec is a German company where quality is paramount and at Lazer Options we appreciate the new possibilities this technology offers the industry. The company launched at Jewellex 2008 to great excitement and appreciation however, soon discovered a gap in the education and understanding of this type of machinery. They saw the need for a service department to address these issues mainly by spending a lot of time with new clients, offering both the service and help to those interested in purchasing a machine.
The earrings: The earrings are a combination of laser-cut and laser-engraving from a 0.1 mm sheet of platinum and folded into a soft material look. The inspiration was taken from the lace of the wedding dress. The tie: The tie is a combination of laser-cut and laser-engraving on a 0.1 mm sheet metal. The text visible on the tie are wedding vows. A promise that is made between two partners irrespective of culture, language or religion.
Starlight Engraving Machine Your introduction to laser marking or engraving. The laser engraving system Starlight is the complete solution, if you are planning your entry into laser engraving with low investment costs. A high-precision laser for normal surface engravings. Starlight is particularly suited for very small markings, such as, for example, stamps and hallmarking under 0.4 mm.
alternative to conventional engraving and marking techniques. This low-maintenance and cost-saving system features enormous flexibility. Due to its very high pulse peak performance, fast and high-contrast engravings can be made on practically all metals, precious metals, ceramics, foils, plastics as well as on certain types of wood or leather.
Starlight is characterised by compact design. With its optimum dimensions, it operates in watch and jewellery production. In particular smaller workshops and studios appreciate the compact design and the Starlight`s simple handling. Unlike costintensive water cooling, Starlight relies on maintenance-free, thermo-electrical air-cooling. This reduces operating costs appreciably and makes Starlight a genuine
Starlight generates maximum radiation qualities and thus provides clean and firstclass engravings. The operator friendly software can be run on WindowsXP, Vista™ or Windows 7. A comprehensive accessories programme for the most varied fields of use rounds up the laser engraving system Starlight.
Visit www.lazeroptions.co.za for more information or to book a consultation.
For registration visit www.iijs.org For details contact: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Tel : +91-22-2654 4600 Fax: +91-22 2652 4764 Email: iijs@gjepcindia.com
FE B RUA RY 2 2 n d t o 2 5 t h 2 013
Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za
c ntents
Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153
7. News
E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za
• Antwerp Diamond Academy to be launched in May
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar E-mail: bhupal.potdar@publicitas.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.
• GIA fosters gem education in Southern Africa • Introduction to fine jewels and timepieces • WDC to honour Oppenheimer’s effort in ending conflict diamonds • Rapaport Melee Diamond Index up 14% in 1Q • Re-cutting programme for recycled diamonds launched • Largest round fancy intense pink diamond to appear at auction
17. PERSONALITY
• Global jewellery crime investigators turn to GIA
Tennille Hoge from JewelQuip’s passion for a prosperous industry
27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed
14. INTERNATIONAL FAIR Inhorgenta Munich 2012 – The biggest EU fair for luxuries, watches, clocks and jewellery
E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za
19. USEFUL INFORMATION Gross margin – a key to profitability
21. MARKET WATCHING The birth of a brand: SAJN speaks to entrepreneur Raymond Weil
Printing: Colors
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
22. BRAND MANAGEMENT • New Swiss timepiece for local market • Boss at Baselworld • Seiko scores with GPS • Contemporary styles for SA market • Designed for the futuristic males of today Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
28. LITTLE GEMS The legacy of Liberty
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
MAY 2012
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
The industry's only trade journal
www.sivanadiamonds.co.za
Inhorgenta Munich 2012
SAJN speaks to entrepreneur Raymond Weil
On the cover Sivana Diamonds is a leading dealer of diamonds of quality and distinction – from sourcing rough to manufacturing. It provides the local and international community with a wide range of services such as calibrated smalls in all shapes and colours with certified goods from
Gross margin – a key to profitability Global jewellery crime investigators turn to GIA
0,30-50ct and high-end investment stones. For more information, tel: (011) 025-2552 / 082-616-0474, e-mail: sivan@sivanadiamonds.co.za, visit: www.sivanadiamonds.co.za or see them at Suite 409, South African Jewellery Centre, 225 Main Street, Johannesburg CBD.
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EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.
What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.
A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.
What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.
All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.
Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?
Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.
Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
NEWS
GIA fosters gem education in Southern Africa The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the University of Zambia (UNZA) have signed a Memorandum of Understanding to provide individuals with the opportunity to enroll in GIA’s Accredited Jewellery Professional intensive (AJPi) programme. UNZA, the largest university in Zambia, will select 20 students to participate in the five-day AJPi class held on the UNZA campus. GIA’s grant, valued at US$25 000, will provide the instructor, curriculum and materials. GIA is also bestowing two specialised gemmological microscopes on the university. The three-course AJPi programme teaches
polished diamond quality; how to translate jewellery design, style and manufacturing features into consumer language; the basics of coloured stone identification; how to explain treated, synthetic and imitation stones with full disclosure and jewellery selling techniques. “It is a privilege to work alongside the UNZA,” says Donna Baker, president and CEO of GIA. “As two organisations dedicated to excellence in education, we look forward to serving the local community by sharing our gemmological knowledge and resources. This programme is part of GIA’s expanded effort to help bring the broader benefits of the
gem trade to people in the places where gems are produced.” GIA has an established presence in Africa, operating an education campus and laboratory in Botswana and a laboratory in Johannesburg. In addition, it offers diamond, coloured gemstone and jewellery arts education at other facilities in Africa. GIA is accredited by the Government of Botswana and has provided classes in Gaborone to further the country’s goals of increasing local employment and added value services from its diamond production. For more information or to apply to the AJPi programme, e-mail: charl.roberts@gia.edu.
Namakwa Diamonds secures US$10 million loan Namakwa Diamonds secured a US$10 million loan from Sputnick Limited as it faces operational challenges at its Kao diamond mine development in Lesotho. The company explained that its current US$40 million loan facility with Jarvirne Limited is insufficient to meet the group’s shortterm funding requirements due to operational challenges at Kao and the delayed execution
of a potential sale of non-core assets. Namakwa has drawn US$33,2 million from the Jarvirne facility so far and an additional US$2 million was made available to the company in April. Issues pertaining to the secondary crushing circuit for a processing plant at Kao restricted short-term treating of high-grade ore during the ramp-up to phase one of commercial
production at the mine. As a result, the processing plant is expected to reach its design capacity of 500 tonnes per hour in June 2012. The delays have caused Namakwa to reduce its production target at Kao to 170 000 carats for the fiscal year which ends on 31 August 2012, from its previously stated target of 200 000 carats. The company is expecting to be net cash generative positive in July 2012. – Rapaport
What’s the Best Way to Grow Your Career? Take a Class with GIA. Supercharge your gemological skills with GIA classes. Short, immersive learning experiences taught by expert instructors give you the knowledge you need to succeed. 2012 CLASS SCHEDULE botswana
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
GIA Education and Laboratory (Pty) Ltd Suite 512, 5th Floor, S.A. Diamond Centre 225 Main Street Johannesburg 2001 South Africa T 27 11 334 2744 F 27 11 334 0932 E giasouthafricalab@gia.edu www.gia.edu
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Suppliers of: Carat Gold Alloy Grain, Plating Solutions, Solders and Pre-Alloys Refiners of: Filings Polishings, Old Jewellery Jewellers’ Sweeps Jhb 011–334–6263/6 Cape Town 021–556–0607 Dbn 039–973–2127 Perkins Metal Recoveries (Pty) Ltd est 1990 reg no 91/02322/07
Rapaport Melee Diamond Index up 14% in 1Q The Rapaport Melee Index (RMI) for small diamonds rebounded 14% to 140,72 in the first quarter of 2012. While prices have returned to March 2011 levels, they remain below the June 2011 RMI of 153,73. Rapaport’s March Melee Diamond Auction sold 58 000 carats for US$8,25 million. Record high prices were achieved in specific categories, with strong demand from US and Indian buyers supporting sales. “We are seeing a strong rebound in prices for commercial-quality melee and higher levels of liquidity after a slow second half of 2011. Traders have returned to the market, bringing
market prices back to levels reached last year. We are excited to have achieved record high prices in certain categories, exceeding sellers’ expectations. Rapaport Auctions continues to attract hundreds of the strongest international buyers while providing the second-hand market with a competitive platform to achieve fair market value for their recycled diamonds,” says Ezi Rapaport, director of Global Trading.
WDC to honour Oppenheimer’s effort in ending conflict diamonds The World Diamond Council (WDC) will recognise Nicky Oppenheimer, the chairman of the De Beers Group, on 14 May for his considerable contribution to the industry’s effort in eradicating the trade of conflict diamonds. The gala celebration dinner will take place during the WDC’s eighth annual meeting in Vicenza, Italy. Eli Izhakoff, president of the WDC, explains: “It is difficult to imagine where we would be today were it not for the role played by Nicky Oppenheimer and De Beers right from the very birth of our organisation. Not only was he among the first industry leaders who understood and appreciated the implications of the conflict diamond trade, and consequently sounded
the rallying cry, but over the years he has been one of our most important and enthusiastic supporters, and has participated in numerous WDC meetings. He was a staunch advocate of the Kimberley Process from the beginning. ”As beneficiaries of what the WDC has managed to achieve, and as a key participant in the Kimberley Process, our industry is indebted to the leadership and support provided by Nicky and De Beers. It will be a privilege to be able to express that to him in person in Vicenza,” Izhakoff adds. For those who have not yet reserved their place at the WDC’s annual meeting, participants may register at: http://meeting2012.world diamondcouncil.org. – Rapaport
Diamond Commission releases Special Report ahead of Congress CIBJO’s Diamond Commission issued its Special Report, ahead of the 2012 CIBJO Congress that will take place next month in Vicenza, Italy. “No news is good news. During the past years, we’ve learnt that in the case of discussions about diamond nomenclature – in CIBJO circles and beyond – that expression certainly rings true,” Diamond Commission president Udi Sheintal said. “Currently, while our colleagues in the coloured stone and pearl sectors continue to have many controversial and, therefore, pressing issues concerning nomenclature on their plate, in our sector the heat of discussions
has been lowered to a moderate temperature. This has allowed the members of the Diamond Commission Steering Committee and the Diamond Commission to concentrate on the fine-tuning of the wording of the Diamond Book and also to open the floor for discussion on other topics that have moved into the diamond sector's field of vision.” CIBJO is the international jewellery confederation of national trade organisations. Its purpose is to encourage harmonisation, promote international co-operation in the jewellery industry and consider issues which concern the trade worldwide. To download the full report, visit: www.cibjo.org.
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Global jewellery crime investigators turn to GIA More than US$1,5 billion of jewellery and precious metals were stolen in the USA in 2010, with a recovery rate of only around 4,2%, according to the Uniform Crime Report issued by the FBI. To help combat gem and jewellery-related crime, law enforcement turned to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) for expertise and assistance. In March, 22 special agents and detectives from international agencies completed a custom-designed intensive two-week programme at GIA world headquarters in Carlsbad, California, that armed them with the skills, knowledge and network to help successfully identify and recover gems and jewelry involved in criminal cases. Law enforcement officers from Canada, Hong Kong, Malaysia and South Africa joined representatives from 13 American cities including police officers, FBI agents and Homeland Security Investigators to learn how advanced gemmological information and training from GIA can help solve international gem and jewellery crimes. The experienced professionals received training in the GIA-created 4Cs of diamond quality (colour, cut, clarity and carat weight) and their grading factors; tools of the trade, including loupes and microscopes; an industry overview outlining the role of diamonds in the marketplace; synthetics, imitations and treatments; field identification of coloured gemstones; how to read a GIA grading report; how jewellery is made; and breaking down stolen jewellery. The objectives of GIA and law enforcement coincide because they both dedicate themselves
to the people they serve, according to Special Agent Daniel McCaffrey, a 16-year veteran of the FBI. “A GIA education is indispensable. The information and practices I’ve learned give me a certain edge because I’m able to employ a more technical perspective,” he said. “Our mission is to protect the public in gemstone and jewellery purchases,” said Donna Baker, president and CEO of GIA. “We’re pleased to have built a strong working relationship with law enforcement agencies around the world. By working together, we can help reduce gem-related crimes.” The goals of the seminar were to teach practical gemmology for use in investigations and demonstrate how GIA resources are readily available to assist in criminal cases. The blend of national and international attendees added the crucial element of transnational co-operation. Representatives from mining countries such as Canada and South Africa brought their unique experience in crimes that occur at the source of gemstones, while others brought a consumer perspective. In the 1980s, a database of diamonds and coloured stones with GIA grading reports was started to assist law enforcement in identifying gemstones involved in crimes. Stones, even if they have been re-cut, can be identified in the system. Another way GIA can identify a stone is through a laser inscription. A police report with a certified English translation is required to utilise this system. Criminal cases solved through the GIA database are not restricted to jewellery theft. McCaffrey described how identifying the stone in an engagement ring led to identification of a murder victim. Investigators were able to trace the ring back to the jeweller who sold the ring by flagging it in the database, which eventually led them to the victim’s family. “Jewellery theft is often a gateway crime,” said FBI Supervisory Special Agent Eric Ives, organised crime and major theft programme manager. “These crimes are often associated with very sophisticated and sometimes violent international criminal enterprises involved in other criminal violations, including money laundering. The illicit proceeds from the trafficking of stolen jewellery are sometimes used to fund other criminal activities.” GIA has supported and educated law enforcement for decades. The current intensive programme began as a partnership between GIA and the Major Theft Programme at FBI Headquarters in 2007. Through this collaboration, the training course was co-ordinated, the curriculum was developed and attendees were selected.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
NEWS
Re-cutting programme for recycleD diamonds launched Diamond manufacturer Hasenfeld-Stein has announced the launch of its diamond recutting programme, a web-based programme which enables retail jewellers to send stones above 0,60 points for re-cutting into GIA triple excellent or AGS 000s diamonds. “We’re using our expertise to help retailers turn diamonds into well-cut, very saleable and profitable products,” says company vicepresident Hertz Hasenfeld. Retailers who submit a diamond will receive an evaluation and judgement within 24 hours of receipt of the diamond, including confirmation of the specific parameters of each stone, such as carat weight, colour and clarity, confirmation that Hasenfeld-Stein will accept the submitted diamond for re-cutting (the company reserves the right to reject stones deemed too high a risk) and expectations for the resulting recut stone. Jewellers also have the option of potentially selling the stone to Hasenfeld-Stein rather than having it re-cut.
Largest round fancy intense pink diamond to appear at auction Christie’s will offer an extremely rare round fancy intense pink diamond of 12,04cts at the sale of Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels on 29 May. This is the largest round fancy intense pink diamond ever to appear at auction. The property of a prominent private collector, this pink stone was purchased from Harry Winston in 1976, the same year that the
United States launched its first satellite on a mission to Mars. The Viking landers were the pioneering spacecrafts which landed on the Red Planet, carrying with them the American flag. For Ronald Winston, the colour of the pink diamond was so intense that he named it “Martian pink” to honour and celebrate this historic event.
Introduction to fine jewels and timepieces Christie’s Education, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Christie’s, the world’s leading art business, will offer an educational course entitled “Introduction to Fine Jewels and Timepieces” from 25-26 May and 27-28 May in Hong Kong. As a comprehensive primer for anyone interested in the very top end of the markets, this two-day course will present a complete overview of jewellery and timepieces and different market platforms. The course will also cover an introduction to the history of jewels, basic knowledge of diamonds, coloured
stones and fine timepieces, connoisseurship and how to evaluate and invest in rare jewels and watches. With a faculty of market specialists, academic and industry experts, participants can acquire an academically solid, yet practical foundation. Held alongside Christie’s spring auctions at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, the course also offers a chance for participants to experience firsthand the excitement of auctions, including Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale, as well as to join gallery tours and exclusive previews.
Cape Town: Tel 021 510 0770, Fax 021 510 0778 Gauteng: 0861 METALS (0861 638 257) Durban: Cell 082 789 3882
NEWS
Antwerp Diamond Academy to be launched in May Sterling Silver Wholesale Jewellers Contact details: 083 6111363/ 082 8548306/082 6791179 e-mail: loisbs@absamail.co.za
The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) will launch its first Antwerp Diamond Academy, a series of workshops and seminars, on 6 May, with businessman Sir Richard Branson as guest of honour. These study sessions will be organised by AWDC for diamond industry members on a regular basis. The topics are determined by the specific needs of the industry (such as international trade, compliance, finance, and sales.) The concept and first edition, which will be about “innovation”, will be launched in Antwerp on Sunday, 6 May. “These academies are targeted directly at the Antwerp diamond companies,” the AWDC said in a statement. “Our goal is to provide them with hands-on knowledge and tools to enhance their position in an increasingly competitive business.” This initiative stems directly from the vision and ideas launched in the Antwerp Diamond Masterplan Project 2020. “To give the whole event that extra sparkle, the Antwerp diamond community invited Sir Richard Branson,” the AWDC said. “During an interactive panel discussion, he will share his own recipe for success with the audience.” Branson’s speaking fee will be donated to Virgin Unite, the independent charitable arm of the Virgin Group. – Jewellery Outlook
Gold and jewellery world to meet at VicenzaOro Spring in May The Vicenza Fair will again be hosting VicenzaOro Spring, the international exhibition of the latest trends in gold and jewellery aimed at Italian and international retailing, with the participation of more than 1 300 exhibiting companies from 30 countries and the main Italian gold districts. Taking place from 19-23 May, the 2012 spring edition will have an international air with the World Jewellery Forum, organised by Fiera di Vicenza in collaboration with the World Diamond Council, the organisation that represents the jewellery and diamond processing industries, and CIBJO, the world jewellery confederation, which will be holding a 10-day meeting, from 13-20 May, in Vicenza. The meeting will be attended by top jewellery and diamond business representatives from over 40 different countries. The World Jewellery Forum provides an opportunity for high-level confrontation and will be attended by top executives from the United Nations, who will be dealing with the imple-
12
mentation and development of methods linked to corporate social responsibility along the diamond production line through the Kimberley Process, the international protocol which has helped achieve significant results in the fight against the trading of illegal gemstones. The forum will be divided into two different events: the Annual Meeting of the World Diamond Council, which will take place on 13 and 14 May, and the Annual CIBJO Congress, from 17-20 May, which will act as a forum for the various commissions set up for gemstones, pearls and precious metals. It will include workshops and will be a good chance to discuss and catch up on the authoritative Blue Books. The congress will also encompass a review of the situation of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) and a report on the ongoing co-operation between CIBJO and the United Nations. Also taking place at this year’s event will be the prize-giving for the international contests launched in recent months to award
goldsmith talents: the “Next Generation – Jewellery Talent Contest 2012”, for under-30 designers and the “Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards 2012”, the equivalent of jewellery “Oscars”, awarded to the very best in productive and commercial design. The theme of the first contest was “Souvenir d’Italie” and the top prize will be awarded to the design which, while drawing from contemporary aesthetics, best interprets the concept of Made in Italy. The award will recognise those who, in seven different categories, have greatly honoured the quality and culture of premium jewellery. Area Trend will also be back in May with the Trend Vision Jewellery and Forecasting project, the first independent world forecasting centre specialised in deciphering consumer behaviour, with a particular focus on style trends. The area will be set up in a structure outside the main Fiera di Vicenza entrance and will be a “style shop” of jewellery design and materials where style trends will be turned into products.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
BASIC STUDS
ASSORTED HOOPS
RINGS
FANCY EARRINGS
PENDANTS
Contact Ronald or Lauren Physical address: Room 401, 4th Floor, East Wing, The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Tel: 011 642 2018/9 • Fax: 011 642 2016 • Email: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za • Website: www.ungarbros.co.za
“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” – Leonardo da Vinci
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Inhorgenta Munich opened its doors for the 39th time on 10 February and offered the latest collections and trends from the watch-and jewellery-makers of the world. With around 30 000 trade visitors from 80 countries, this trade fair for jewellery and watches confirmed its central position in the EU and international markets. Around one-third of the total number of trade visitors came from outside Germany. The strongest contingents of foreign visitors came from Austria, the UK, Italy, Spain and Switzerland. The highest increases in visitor numbers came from the Scandinavian countries, Israel, Japan and South Africa. Because of the economic situation, visitor numbers from Greece, Italy and Spain declined. In total, 1 134 exhibitors from 37 nations took part in the show: 62 exhibiting companies more than last year – an increase of 5,8%. In the context of the EU and global economic malaise, this is a very strong number indeed. Coincidental with the fair dates, Siberia sent down an icy blast of winter weather which enveloped most of central Europe, dropping temperatures in some areas to 20 degrees lower than average for that time of the year. Transport disruption was manifest and may well have had some influence on visitor numbers – it certainly had an effect on visitor numbness! Klaus Dittrich, chairman and CEO of Messe München, said: “We gathered responses to the changes at Inhorgenta Munich and the result was clear. The changes are welcomed – already it is clear that there will be lots of new exhibitors at the event in 2013.” Norbert Jensen, managing director of Näher & Jensen, Raymond Weil commented: “What we noticed particularly this year were the excellent segmentation at the fair, the brisk
Inhorgenta Munich 2012 – The biggest EU fair for luxuries, watches, clocks and jewellery
14
Martin Foster reviews trends in the German luxury industries – markets are buoyant despite the EU sovereign debt malaise order activity and the overall positive mood.” This year was the first phase in reorganising the fair and giving it a higher profile for watch and clock exhibitors who fall between stools, as Baselworld fair follows hard on the dates of Inhorgenta Munich. But Baselworld is so big that smaller makers and trade visitors who feel swamped by its size can take comfortable refuge in the very nicely appointed halls and professional facilities at Inhorgenta Munich. Munich clockmaker Erwin Sattler and watchmaker Chronoswiss had a token presence at the fair, but both were holding off with their new party pieces until Baselworld. However, there are interesting moves afoot for Inhorgenta Munich – watch this space. The luxuries industries have never been more prosperous – both Swatch and Richemont groups are reporting to shareholders that they have set absolute turnover records, with increases of 20%+ for 2011. The Swatch Group created more than 2 800 new jobs in 2011 alone. So expect to see strong competition and expansion of the fairs as more players
enter the arena seeking a share of this lucrative market. It follows that we may also see an increasing presence of China in coming years at Inhorgenta Munich. Exhibiting for the third time at Inhorgenta, British Silver Week presented nine silversmiths’ works and received particularly good feedback for the enamelled candelabrum by Jenny Edge selling at €9 000 and the giant silver spoon by Brett Payne at over 1,0 metres and 1,5 kilos. However, sales were low, with many customers concerned about spending on discretionary luxuries in the current economic climate.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Despite this, BSW is in discussions to create an exhibition in Rome. Gordon Hamme, the BSW managing director, commented: “British silversmithing is completely different from anything else at the fair. We feel that we are building a good following of clients in Europe who expect to see us at the Inhorgenta fair, so of course we will be back next year.” The German chapter of the International Platinum Guild was similarly represented, but with jewellery rather than table- and flatware. Few are aware of the complicated processes involved in producing platinum. Nearly half a ton of ore must be hammered, blasted and then raised to the surface to be ground, sieved and washed to extract just one gram of platinum. The “Pt 950 hallmark” indicates that the metal is almost pure, as the jewellery is crafted from 95% pure platinum. It is the density of the metal that gives platinum engagement and wedding rings its symbolic durability and makes them so attractive. The German enclave of high watchmaking is to be found near Dresden in the town of Glashütte, some 25 km south of Dresden. It has had a significant horological history since 1845, and has been the centre of high-grade watchmaking in Germany ever since. It is the home of watchmaking firms such as Nomos, Tutima, A Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, Union Uhrenfabrik and local watchmaking schools established to promote the skills and traditions of their fine Glashütte heritage. The Tutima watch brand was founded in Glashütte in 1927, but in 1945 Tutima moved to northern
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
Germany, where the firm continued to produce watches in the footsteps of its Glashütte traditions. After German reunification, the company returned to Glashütte and in March 2008 its new manufactory was commissioned there. Now, to celebrate its return to its roots, Tutima has produced the spectacular Hommage Cal 800 minute repeater – the first such complication to have been completely designed and made in the enclave of Glashütte. From the raised hand engraving to the bevelling of levers, springs, screws and pins to the hand tin-polish, the minute repeater is the king of complications – and for Germany, Tutima in Glashütte is the place to have it made. Readers will be familiar with the PUK range of jewellery spot welders. Lampert has brought out the PUK04 with a modern touch-screen displaying the choice of metal, eg “gold”, “silver” or “platinum”, which is selected for the particular job, followed by the welding scenario or geometry such as “thin sheet”, “welding in an angle” or “apply welding wire”. Problematic welding for brass is improved with the PUK04, but the zinc content still remains an issue if the percentage is on the high side. Augsburg, a very old area of German clock, watch and jewellery manufacture, is also a big supplier of tools and equipment for the industry. “Augusta” brand tools are the product of Bullnheimer & Co, established by Conrad Bullnheimer in 1889. Dieter Bullnheimer, current CEO of the company, says of the buoyant mood of the jewellery industry: “Due to the steadily increasing demand and price for precious metals, especially for gold, there is a need for precious metal testing. There is now a new technology of testing precious metals by means of x-ray fluorescence analysis and there is an increasing demand for this innovative technology.” The range of high-quality tools, equipment
and machines available for the industry from Augusta, Boley and major German houses can only be fully understood by attending the Inhorgenta Munich fair. The tool suppliers generally are reporting a resurgence of sales, clearly reflecting the volume of mechanical clocks and watches which have been streaming out of the major brands in Germany and Switzerland this past decade. Inhorgenta is a “trade only” fair for proprietors, watchmakers and jewellers, so if you are in Germany at this time of the year, registration is easy and the fair provides a wide crosssection of machines, tools, watches, clocks, jewellery and makers’ forums which is certainly informative to this industry. Most exhibitors speak English. Next year Inhorgenta Europe will open its glittering doors at the grounds of the New Munich Trade Fair Centre on 22-25 February. (Clockwise, from below): Gordon Hamme with the superb enamelled candelabrum made by English silversmith Jenny Edge, which has an elegant sculptural quality and would suit a stylish modern home. Expect to pay about €9 000; Ingersoll Grand Canyon IV uses a Cal 735 automatic movement with 35 jewels featuring an open balance wheel, day, date and month. All Ingersoll watches are designed in Germany; Augusta presented this new range of bench lamps – all shapes and sizes; from the Vendetta collection: Princess platinum ring, Pt 950, with a central princess-cut diamond surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds (total weight 13,50ct). Gebrüder Schaffrath, Hanau, Germany; from Niessing, Vreden, Germany. Niessing Roseum platinum choker and post earrings, each with five brilliant-cut diamonds and a fleecy matte finish; Inhorgenta Munich is an inexhaustible source of the simple to the exotic. Lithuanian amber sold here in strings or loose or pendant pieces shaped, polished and mounted; platinum chain with pendant, Pt 950, set with brilliant-cut diamonds (total weight 2,09ct). Manufactured using the newly developed platinum alloy “Infinite White Platinum”. Hans D Krieger Fine Jewellery, Idar-Oberstein, Germany.
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BR E A KIN G N E WS!! ! Jewel Quip have merged with Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies. Bringing you a bigger better range with the same great service. Jewel Quip’s services will remain uninterrupted while relocating to Cape Town.
6th Floor Wale Street Chambers I 33 Church Street Cape Town I PO Box 65 Cape Town 8001 (t) 021 424 8261 I
(f) 0867 210 871 I www.capewatch.co.za I www.jewelquip.co.za I
0861 115 137
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PERSONALITY
Passionate about a prosperous industry
How long have you been involved in the industry and where and how did your involvement begin? I finished my Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Diploma in 2003. In 2005 I opened JewelQuip after noticing a gap in the market for well-priced, quality tools that were backed up by good service. I still sit behind the bench to manufacture and do designing by hand – and on CAD.
What has been your greatest achievement so far? Growing vastly in this recession in South Africa has not been easy and I think being a female in this industry and having a successful business is an achievement on its own. I have also been a finalist in the Wax to the Max design competition, which was very rewarding. I have also gained big brand agencies and distributorships for Edenta, Lampert, Berkem, Mario Di Maio, Cavallin and Busch in the last 24 months. Was JewelQuip your initiative and how does it service the industry? I started JewelQuip to provide a niche service to people engaging in the jewellery trade. We have and sell almost everything. We have since joined forces and merged with Cape Watch Tool & Jewellery Supplies to create a bigger, better brand of tools and equipment for the jewellery, watch, diamond and hobbyist trades as well as findings. We deliver countrywide and have a detailed website with all our products and prices for easy viewing.
Tennille Hoge has been a key player in the industry for almost 10 years. Besides being the owner of JewelQuip, she still designs remarkable pieces on a regular basis and is also actively involved with The Petals charity, where she does a limited-edition jewellery range annually to help raise funds for the organisation. Her company recently merged with Cape Watch Tool & Jewellery Supplies to create a bigger brand of tools and equipment for the industry. If you could change one thing in the industry, what would it be? I would like to create a sharing environment, where jewellers and others in this trade want to share, help and teach others to advance and improve their skills rather than keep secrets that hinder growth. I feel the country and industry would be a better place if we all helped out a little and let our knowledge and skills be shared. Do you still design jewellery on a regular basis? If so, how do you balance running a business and jewellery design? Yes, I do still design on a regular basis – it keeps me sharp, creative and able to better relate to my clients, suppliers and the wearer of the final piece. No matter what business you are in, it is difficult to find balance, but I am very fortunate that I do something I love and that passion keeps me in check. I think it’s easier to achieve balance in my situation because of the relation between the tools that I sell and the ones that I use, so whenever I am making a piece I am able to test the tools that I sell and ensure that they are up to my standards. In essence, whatever I am doing relates to jewellery in some way. How do you see the future of the jewellery industry in South Africa? South Africa’s future is looking very bright, our technologies and skills are improving and we are catching up with the overseas markets. Jewellers are realising that having quality tools and technology at their
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
fingertips improves workmanship and gets the job done quicker. Where does your passion for jewellery design come from? Well, to be honest, I have always loved jewellery, the trade and helping jewellers. I draw inspiration for design from nature and from the use of the pieces. People often lead you to the design they want – you just need to listen. Where do you live? I'm busy relocating to Cape Town with my supportive husband and our three dogs. What music are you listening to in your car at the moment? A mix of old and new: The Eagles, Adele, GoldFish, Credence Clearwater Revival and David Guetta. What were the last two places you visited on vacation? Argentina and Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve. Your favourite restaurant in the world? A Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong called Matsuya. Do you enjoy cooking and what is your favourite dish to prepare? I Love cooking, I’m very blessed to have a husband and family who have taught me to cook with love. My favourite dish is a family favourite – a Brazilian dish with black beans, chilli and pork called Feijoada.
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CUT, LAMINATE & KEEP
USEFUL INFORMATION
Gross margin – a key to profitability Most owners or managers will realise that their annual gross profit figure is of cardinal importance. You should not only be able to measure it and manage it, but – most importantly – know how to improve it. Gross profit is easy to measure: your annual financial statements will provide the figures you need. Gross profit is defined as: Total annual sales minus cost of production and/or cost of goods sold Gross margin is defined as: Gross profit expressed as a percentage of total sales
For instance: if your total sales for the year are R500 000 and your total operational (or production) expenses plus the cost of all items sold are R400 000, then you have made: R100 000 gross profit or achieved a R100 000/R500 000 x 100 = 20% gross margin. Many jewellers are confused when they discover that their actual gross margin at year-end and is much less than expected. “I buy an item for R100 and sell it for R200, which surely should give me a 50% gross margin. Why, then, when I calculate my gross margin, do I come out at 40%?” The answer lies in the many small and difficult-to-identify hidden costs. Most jewellers will understand that a low gross margin will lead to a low (or even a negative) net profit.
Important reasons why your gross margin may be lower than expected You have to analyse the following issues and take remedial action on each if you want to increase your profitability. 1. Cash discounts on your purchases Normally, suppliers offer a percentage discount on quick payments. If you do not take advantage of this, you are paying too much for your stock and your gross margin will suffer.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
2. Low productivity If you run a manufacturing workshop and your goldsmiths are underperforming, your cost of sales will be too high and your gross margin low. Rectifying this is a major challenge. 3. Poor stock control Although stock control is a study on its own, two stock issues have a major impact on your profit margin: i) Too much stock. Overstocking is the cause of many hidden costs such as unnecessary interest paid on borrowings, poor cash flow, loss of discounts, stock obsolescence, extra breakages and handling costs, taxes and loss of space. It can add up to 2% per month and a whopping gross margin loss of 24%. ii The wrong product mix. Dead stock causes the same cost increases as those in (i) above. A proper analysis of what you sold over the past 12 months vs the stock you carry at year-end will reveal in which categories you are overstocked and which did not move. 4. Shrinkage In a jewellery store and/or in a goldsmith workshop, there are two areas where stock disappears: i) Theft by customers and/or staff. ii) Wastage in the production process. There is an inevitable loss in precious metal in any workshop. Compare yours with what is acceptable in other workshops and if it is out of line, take drastic action. You can determine your shrinkage (stock loss) by subtracting the cost of the actual inventory on hand (as determined by a physical stock-take at year-end) from the cost of yearend inventory as given by your financial statements (ie the cost of stock which should be on hand at year-end).
price points, trade fairs and fashion demands, whereas the smaller jeweller often buys ad hoc or as his cash flow allows. Some join a buying co-operative to obtain volume discounts. Whichever system of stock purchase you require, if you select “dogs” they will sit, die and erode your profit margin.
6. Poor pricing To determine the “real” cost of manufacturing an item is often difficult and requires some bookkeeping skills. Costing items that have been purchased is much easier. Insist that your supplier provides an invoice with proper descriptions and all items individually priced, or you will spend hours trying to cost your stock. What mark-up to be used and what discounts to offer your clients depend on the type of shop or workshop you manage. Remember, a relatively small percentage discount from the top makes a large difference in your gross margin. 7. Bookkeeping errors Accounting software packages are readily available and you would be wise to obtain one that is custom-made for the jewellery industry. The initial effort in getting to grips with the system will be worth every penny. Computers do not make mistakes but, unfortunately, humans do. Proper training or outside help will solve many headaches. To have timely information available, stock categories analysed and records kept up-to-date will eliminate many of the hidden costs that are eating away at your gross margin. 8. Low sales volumes This factor is one of the major contributors to low net profit figures. You may have a large profit margin – ie, profit as a percentage of sales – but you can still be in trouble. If your sales are insufficient, your gross profit in monetary terms will be low and may not be enough to cover your monetary expenses. Remedial action to improve sales volumes is required. – Information courtesy of Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook
5. Improper buying Buying jewellery stock needs to be planned and done according to a budgeted and detailed programme. Larger chain stores are guided by
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MARKET WATCHING
“When I started the Raymond Weil brand, it was a time of great disruption and there was a need for reassessment. It was a terrible crisis for the Swiss watch industry in many aspects, but also a tremendous opportunity. To embrace a new technology such as quartz and simultaneously launch a new brand was my goal. The aim was to produce a Swiss watch that was elegant, with a novel concept and design, under the highest quality standards but at an affordable price.” Now, more than 35 years later, with the second and third generations of his family at the helm, the original objective is still relevant. After 27 years' experience in the horological industry the use of his own name for a new brand reinforced Weil’s credibility as he was the first Swiss watchmaker who had entered the Indian and Chinese markets. Using the designer’s name for a product was a deeplyrooted trend as a synonym for luxury at that time – Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin had democratised the fashion in haute couture and Weil believed that using his name for the new watch brand was a way to position it in this tradition of luxury. Operations got underway in the Genevan office of a childhood friend in the perfume business who helped him by apportioning space for the new venture. At the outset, the enterprise had a staff of very few people and included his wife. They were selected from his years as general manager at one of Switzerland’s leading watchmakers and included his former secretary, who became his associate in the new enterprise until 1996, when she started her own company. “We had designers and experienced watchmakers to complete the team and were fewer than 10 people,” he recalls. Today, including the staff of the company’s three subsidiaries in Austria, India and the USA, the staff complement is around 1 600. Designs were the result of collaboration between his associates and himself. All explained what they visualised for each model and why. Suggestions were put forward and it was up to the team to make the final decision, taking into account the market they were targeting. “At that time, marketing and promoting were very different from what they are today. At Raymond Weil they comprised products with elegant designs
at accessible prices supported by good service. These factors were spread by word of mouth and former strong relationships with partners who believed in our products and promoted them”, he recalls, as is still the case today. Their first major marketing effort judged by today’s standards commenced in 1983 with the launch of the Amadeus collection, named after the Austrian composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Fortuitously, this happened to coincide with Milos Forman’s world-acclaimed film of that name. One day Weil received a call from Forman who screened the movie for him in Zurich and said he wanted to offer a watch to his invitees at the film’s previews. This collaboration was repeated over a period of six months as the movie was released in several countries. “It was
The birth of a brand
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
At a time when the Swiss watch industry was under pressure due to factors pertaining to the quartz revolution in which the Japanese had stolen a march, one man bravely launched a new Swiss brand under his own name. Entrepreneur Raymond Weil of Geneva explains his motivation. an extraordinary marketing coup which could not be repeated today unless a huge budget is available,” he comments nostalgically. The watch was exactly what the new generation of baby boomers – the first generation of true consumers – wanted and the brand took off immediately. Being the owner of several watches became the new trend, as opposed to the former watch-fora-lifetime tradition. The Raymond Weil brand was at the helm of the trend of wearing a watch that was fashionable, as well as being a functional timepiece. By the end of the '80s, the new brand was occupying 50% of the space in their rented premises and it was time to move. This they did – to the premises in a suburb of Geneva which they still occupy today. The move provided ample space for storing not only the finished products, which were in constant demand, but also components for after-sales service plus the quality control department, the research and development division, sales and
marketing, administration and management Further expansion saw the building of a new assembly plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2010 which has enabled stricter control over the quality process. The brand was an international success from the start, says Weil. Today Raymond Weil watches are represented in 90 countries around the world, with outlets in South Africa, Dubai, India, Great Britain and the USA. This afforded him the opportunity to pursue his desire to travel around the globe, meet people and experience different cultures. “It has been a pleasure,” Weil admits. The brand has long been associated with music, its models named after classical works. This is no chance occurrence – he has always been a great lover of music and surrounded by it through his family’s activities in this field. He named his first collection after a famous opera which he believes has much in common with watchmaking: precision, creativity and the emotions. The company has always been familyorientated. Today his son-in-law, who joined it in 1982 and his grandsons, who joined in 2006, continue the tradition. That, after all, is what Swiss watchmaking is all about.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Luminox goes military Widely used by military forces worldwide for their uniforms, vehicles and artillery is the colour Olive Drab. Paying tribute to this tradition is Luminox’s OD Military 3040 series which will appeal to anyone with a special connection to this colour associated with strength and heroism. Special features are the impact-resistant case with Olive Drab or Black Nylon, a matching bezel (black carbon, reinforced polycarbonate on the olive fibreglass-reinforced polymer on the black case). Both versions feature a Swiss quartz movement with time and date functions, Arabic numerals on a black militarystyle dial and a steel crown. The watches in this series have Luminox Light Technology, a proprietary system self-powered and mounted on the hands, with markers and bezels of the watches which function for up to
25 years so that the dial can always be read, even in Luminox low-light conditions. All these features make the Military watches able to stand up to any challenge. Interestingly, world-famous diver Steve Cassell, who is an ambassador for the brand, recently completed a long-distance dive off the coast of California. (Below): The new Luminox Military watch in Olive Drab.
(Above): A symbol of casual elegance since 1933, Lacoste uses its authentic sporting roots to offer a unique world that the GL Group has reinterpreted in the form of jewellery. Its latest collection, Petit Pique, is characterised by a clear orientation towards gilt and silvered metal jewellery. The collection is available in several lines and includes bracelets, rings, chains, necklaces, pendants, medals, charms and bag accessories.
Boss at Baselworld As befits its total brand image instigated by its apparel, the Boss Baselworld 2012 watch collection was at the forefront of the latest fashion trends. The brand’s new designs can be summarised as sophisticated, smaller, slimmer and featuring the colour blue. The new Slim Collection epitomises the dearth of the craze for ostentatious, oversized and bulky watches of recent years espoused by fashion followers. Boss has now replaced this with elegance and refinement, to which is added sleekness. Its new models fit comfortably under a shirt sleeve – a trend which adds subtle accents that enhance the line, adding to its new look: classic and elegant. Cases and lugs are in stainless steel or IPplated pink gold and sizes are generally 40 mm diameter, or in the chronograph version, 42 mm. The subtle details are in understated silvertoned black synonymous with the Boss apparel image or with the addition of this year’s “hot” colour, blue. Hour markers are faceted and
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sword-shaped, as are minute hands and this line displays small seconds at 6 o’clock. Known for its models geared to match every sporting mood, a second collection includes a diver’s-type line named “Deep Blue” inspired by marine divers. Waterresistant to 100 m, it includes a screwback easy-grip crown, user-friendly chronograph pushers, a rotating bezel with dedicated dive-time marker, luminous hands and hour markers set in a 44 mm diameter case mounted on a sturdy integrated rubberised leather strap. This line is also available on a bracelet with central brushed links and polished outer ones. These details combine form and function. The brand also includes aviator models in this category. Black is an integral part of the Boss brand’s DNA and its historical legacy. Accordingly, the brand has produced a range of ladies' watches which, despite being devoid of colour, express facets of femininity in a line suitable for wear with the ubiquitous "little black dress" which has survived decades of feminine fashion.
Shapes include timepieces to match the dress code: the smooth, restrained elegance of total black appears in a square model, or an elongated rectangular one with a dial framed by black Swarovski crystals. The world has become a global village today and in keeping with the concomitant juggling of time zones, vibrant new models in the Boss Orange collection combine useful functions with casual, wearable designs. These are powered by a movement which operates via finger pressure to digitally display the exact time in any of three time-zones symbolically shining in orange. This is accompanied by day/night, alarm, countdown and chronograph functions. Another notable feature is the sturdy and durable plastic case in a choice of grey, green, orange, black, white and blue versions teamed to match the silicon straps which display the brand’s logo signature spirit between the top left and bottom right of the dial. (Left): The stainless steel version of Boss’s return to classic elegance in the Slim collection. (Below): Juggling time zones is second nature to world travellers, which is simplified in the Boss Orange digital collection of vibrant new models.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Fine-quality jewellery from Miss Silver Miss Silver branded jewellery hit the local market by storm at Jewellex Africa 2011 and, after almost a year in the market, is still going strong. Launched by leading silver jewellery wholesaler, Something Special, Miss Silver includes a wide selection of pieces – from pendants to rings, bracelets and earrings. All pieces reflect a classis, chic look mimicking 9ct white gold jewellery. Made of sterling silver and incorporating cubic zirconias and enamelling in some of the designs, Miss Silver is exclusive, yet affordable. “We had a good response from retailers at last year’s Jewellex and are in approximately 20 stores already,” says Mark Hammerschlag of Something Special. “Miss Silver is an entrylevel silver collection price-wise, yet very classic and stylish. A lot of time and effort have been dedicated to sourcing the right
pieces for the teenage market, in particular. It is a quality collection with jewellery pieces a girl can wear and keep for the rest of her life. We are happy with the market’s reaction so far and look forward to seeing it in even more stores.” Miss Silver has now also employed the services of Styling Concepts to assist with keeping the brand visible through marketing and will soon be seen in luxury magazines locally. It is also in the process of going electronic and should have a website enabling customers to purchase pieces online before long. This will allow the brand to reach an international market. “Miss Silver is a very popular
brand in our store,” says Victor Lazer of Lazers Jewellers in Johannesburg. “I think what contributes to its popularity is the fact that it’s priced right. Furthermore, it definitely fills the gap in the market for inexpensive jewellery aimed at the younger market.” According to Hammerschlag, the Miss Silver Microsettings collection is selling very well at the moment, together with the various chains available. “I am also in the process of accumulating samples for the new collection.” The range includes a Miss Silver Baby Collection which features bangles, brooches, chains, ID bracelets, pendants, earrings and charms. Something Special has been providing the industry with classic silver lines reflecting a refined look for almost 30 years.
Seiko scores with GPS Seiko, long a leader in watch technology, has predicted an exciting future for the watch which was launched at Baselworld 2012. The Japanese brand presented the world’s first GPS watch, which recognises all 39 time zones on the Earth with totally precise time. It is named the Seiko Astron – in honour, as it were, of its predecessor of 1969, the world’s first marketable quartz watch. It could well be the most intelligent watch to be built to date and will be released on the market during the third quarter of this year, ushering in a new era of time-keeping technology. It provides accurate time anywhere on the globe and is convenient, simple and easy to wear. The watch functions by automatically receiving the time signal on demand via the four or more GPS satellites which orbit the planet, pinpointing its position and identifying the time zone and so the exact time. With Atomic Clock precision, the hands adjust automatically to the correct local time. No part of the planet is beyond the reach of the GPS satellite network. This state-of-the-art Seiko Astron is solarpowered, so the watch never needs a battery change. It has a perpetual calendar to February 2100, which ensures that the date will be as accurate as the time. “It’s not just a prototype watch – it’s already a collection,” says MD of
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
Seiko Europe, Robert Wilson. To commemorate the launch, a limited edition of 2 500 pieces will be available worldwide in a high-intensity 47 mm diameter titanium case of 16,5 thickness which has black hard coating and ceramic bezel. Titanium is as strong as steel, but has only 60% of its weight. It registers hours, minutes and seconds via the hands. Functions include a signal reception result indicator. Daylight saving, time and power saving with accuracy to approximately 15 seconds per month (without receiving a time signal in temperatures from 5-35 ˚C) are other features. In the limited edition the recessed sides of the case ensure that it is as light as it is robust; the extra-strong silicon strap with three-fold clasp has a push-button release. The strap is four times stronger than any previous strap of this material. Seiko Astron receives all the power it needs from the light absorbed through the elegant and extremely legible dial, which is rich in information that can be displayed. In addition to the traditional dial and dual time displays, the status of the GPS display is indicated by the second hand and indicator at the 10 o’clock position when the appropriate button is
pressed. At a glance you can see whether the GPS signal has been received, as well as from how many satellites and also whether daylight saving time has been activated. As aforementioned, this limited edition is part of a collection which comprises three other models in high-intensity titanium and two in stainless steel. All have the same functions and high specifications which include the dual time-zone subdial, in-flight mode indicator and sapphire crystal with newly-developed super-clear coating. The production of this remarkable watch, which combines Seiko solar technology with GPS, required years of painstaking and ground-breaking research to receive the GPS signal in a watch which weighs about 135 g. No less than 100 patents have been applied for. This timepiece has divided the world into one million “squares” and a time-zone for each has been allocated. Accuracy is to approximately 15 seconds per month. Step off a plane, press a button and it takes 30 seconds for the time-zone adjustment to be activated, whether you are stationary or on the move. Time and space have been united in this truly remarkable timepiece, which is also quite beautiful in its presentation. Truly a watch for the traveller – and assuredly for the collector.
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MARKET WATCHING
Designed for the futuristic males of today Titan has launched its neo-futuristic collection of self-energising (light-powered) watches – the HTSE (High Tech Self Energised) range. Inspired by the most complex self-energising bodies, this ultra-modern collection converges avant-garde vision with revolutionary style. The HTSE collection targets the techsavvy, modern male of today with a discerning attitude towards fashion. With space and space exploration being the ultimate frontier of futurism, each watch in the collection is a completely self-sufficient unit to the extent of having the capability of energising itself. Titan has also launched the world’s first-ever mobile application for iPhone and Android to be “powered by light”. “Power up the mobile app by pointing the camera on your phone to any light source,” explains the company. “Use the app to check out the HTSE collection and
explore key features of each watch, and try on a watch virtually using augmented reality. Consumers can also share the watch images, features and virtual trials on Facebook and Twitter, and locate their nearest Titan stockist using GPS.” With translucent black dials which harness light, the bezel rings which flow into the lug and the precisely engineered crowns, these timepieces embody not only technology, but also fashion and style. The watches are extremely energy-efficient and can be charged by any light upward of 200 lux. Once fully charged, the watch continues to run for four months even if locked up in complete darkness. The quick start function enables the watch to come alive within 10-20 seconds of exposure to light from a zero charge dead condition. The “sleep mode” feature of the timepieces ensures the increased shelf life of the battery by switching on the mode on the cue of the lesser current usage by the user. Titan Industries Ltd is part of the US$70 billion global conglomerate, the Tata Group, with business interests spanning steel, automobiles, software, retail and telecommunications.
A US$1,4 billion (revenue in 2010-2011) listed company, Titan is the fifth-largest integrated watch manufacturer in the world, manufacturing more than 11 million watches every year, with a customer base of over 100 million in 27 countries and is available in more than 70 stores locally.
Contemporary styles for SA market A sea of colour from Nautica Nautica has released a fresh array of colours in its signature BFD100 sports collection. The bright colours are intended to celebrate the European summer season with red, yellow, orange, green, blue and purple, according to a current fashion for sports watches – a trend which has long been a core feature, according to the brand’s heritage and one of its attributes. Featured in the new collection are coloured dials with matching straps which make a bold fashion statement. Designs are sporty and functional with authentic diving style details, including a turning top ring and oversized numbers. A luminous option and open-design hands with luminous arrow tips for quick readability in any environment plus a J-Class sail etched on the crown are other details.
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The new Jacques Lemans collection released at Baselworld was a quick response to the latest trends. These represented a combination of black with blue details and the presence of ceramic in black and white in a variety of designs, a move established well in advance. The styles covered many sporting activities and those selected for South Africa were contemporary, reported Sabine Glantschsig, who is responsible for export activities. Facebook appears to be a practical medium for the brand, which currently has some 5 000 followers through this source. “It is necessary to appeal to a wide range of emotions in our active marketing programme,” explained MD of local distributors CJR Gift Sales, Rowan Jacobson, who believes they have found their feet in the SA market. Among this year’s new releases is the Milano Series, which has proved to be the brand’s new “star”. Striking designs and details which include the use of white and black ceramic on a stainless steel case, high-grade materials and extravagant presentations are the key to this line’s success. It is the mixture
of sporty designs in a wide range of models combined with classic elements in a selection of colours with matching watchbands to which the followers of the Jacques Lemans’ style are attracted in both gents' and ladies' designs. All models have the stainless steel case, hardened “Crystex” crystal and are water-resistant to 10 ATM. The skinfriendly, high-grade silicon strap is UV-proof and leather straps are made from Italian leather. The Milano series, featuring feminine interpretations including La Passion Collection, have Swarovski elements on the bezel and striking details on the dial. The brand is based in Austria, where its in-house designers interpret and follow the general trend for watches. Being a sporting brand, it has chosen a renowned tennis player, Jurgen Metzer, as its brand ambassador – a former winner at both Wimbledon and on the Australian circuit. Jacques Leman is represented in 120 countries and is well established in the marketplace. (Above): Jacques Lemans’ multi-function chronograph in the white ceramic and stainless steel version.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
marketplace
HARRY OPPENHEIMER DIAMOND TRAINING SCHOOL The courses that we present are: • Diamond Polishing Course • Rough Diamond Evaluation Course • Gemological Institute of America present courses at HODTS that we market , usually in August each year and these are: - Diamond Grading Lab (Polished Diamond Grading) - Gem Identification Lab - Coloured Stone Grading Lab
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SA Jewellery News (SAJN) will now be giving advertisers the opportunity to advertise employment opportunities, merchandise for sale, etc in the magazine at a cost of only R350.00 (+ VAT) per classified. Reserve your spot in the magazine immediately, e-mail Thuli at: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za.
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Suite 521A, 5th Floor, SA Jewellery Centre, 225 Main Street, Johannesburg, 2001 Tel: (011) 334 7086 | Fax: (011) 334 7087 | Email: ursela@idllab.co.za | Website: www.idllab.co.za
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
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marketplace
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For marketplace rates contact Tanja Jordaan at 083 268 6153 / adsales@isikhova.co.za
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012
marketplace
Accounting, tax and auditing services to the diamond and jewellery industry.
LUTRIN & ASSOCIATES Suite 523, 5th Floor, SA jewellery Centre, 225 Main street, Johannesburg, 2001 Tel: 011-334-6355 • Milton Lutrin cell: 083 375 0146 E-mail: milton@lutrin.co.za
LITTLE GEMS
Its fame in this sphere rests on the original jewellery works of art presented by young Arthur Lazenby Liberty who, after a 10year experience as an employee in the famous street at Farmer & Rogers, eventually decided to open his own business in Regent Street. In 1885, No 142 housed the Eastern Bazaar which specialised in decorative furnishings and objects. It became a fashionable place to shop for exotic fabrics and objets d’art. Further down, at 218a Regent Street, a new shop was rising. There the youthful Liberty opened his new store – with money borrowed from his future father-in-law. He was a shrewd businessman and added new departments, which gave the shop a distinctive personality by specialising not only in furnishings, but in clothing fabrics as well. Farmer & Rogers’ oriental warehouse closed down 12 years later – perhaps the new competition was too hot – giving the young entrepreneur his opportunity to establish his own oriental emporium, which he first called the East India House. It featured oriental porcelain, silver and objets d’art. The new store flourished, becoming known for these fabrics, during the 1890s (as it is today). Liberty’s involvement in jewellery resulted from his interest in the Arts and Crafts movement of that era, which developed in England in the latter half of the 19th century. It challenged the tastes of the Victorian era as a result of the ideals of key figures John Ruskin and William Morris, who decried the plight of workers in the factories which were churning out manufactured items en masse, somewhat lacking in taste. Ruskin, Morris and others encouraged individual fine craftsmanship during the rise of the consumer class. These objects, they believed, would enhance the lives of ordinary people. Liberty himself had formed relationships with creative local craftsmen and he commissioned them to produce pieces of jewellery which were more typically linear and angular, with stylised, decorative motifs. The Arts and Crafts movement originating in England, which was at that time the most industrialised country in the world – was a rebellion by many jewellers to the Industrial Revolution. It was part of a philosophy through which they sought to improve standards of decorative design believed to have been debased by mechanisation.
The legacy of Liberty
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Strolling down London‘s Regent Street today, residents and visitors alike are probably familiar with the Tudor-style building which houses the Liberty Department Store. But most are probably unaware of the historic role played by this shop and its founder in the development of jewellery design. Alice Weil delves into the history of this magnificent shop. Yet it did not produce a particular style, but rather advocated workmanship. It encouraged the return to the intricate jewellery designs and hand-made craftsmanship during the years 1894-1923 and stemmed from this reaction. Many of the jewels were of a simple pattern, often containing uncut stones during this period which fell between that of Late Victorian and the Art Nouveau style, which followed thereafter. At the same time, Liberty realised the commercial aspect of their simplicity, resulting in stylish, unconventional jewellery which was avant garde – and at prices the general public could afford. Among the gemstones
used were turquoise, opal and tiny pearls, set at first in gold and later in silver and containing enamelling. Arthur Liberty encouraged these designers and so helped develop the Arts and Crafts movement. His company became associated with the new so-called Aesthetic Style – to such an extent that it became known in Italy as the Stiel Liberty. During a period of Tudor revival, the famous building rose in this guise with sections added in time to house the additional departments which were introduced. Sadly, though, Arthur Liberty did not live to see his magnificent shop completed, as he died in 1917 before it was finished. But he left a legacy as a result of the important role he played in the Arts and Crafts movement and these jewellery pieces are much prized today by collectors of antique jewellery.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2012