SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • May 2017

R36,00 (incl VAT)

MAY 2017

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Watch & Clock Supplement 2017 Showcasing talent through the medium of concrete The diamond industry’s best at this year’s Jewellex

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CARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

JEWELLEX AFRICA

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Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition 8-10 OCTOBER 2017 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, SANDTON, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

JHB OFFICE: 3rd Floor West Tower, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, JHB TEL: +27 (0)11 484 7205 | EMAIL: george@proteadiamonds.co.za CAPE TOWN, GARDEN ROUTE & DURBAN OFFICE: 170 Buitengracht Street, Cape Town | TEL: +27 (0)21 424 2002

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Linda Stock Cell: 081-065-7322 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072 837 4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

c ntents 7. NEWS • Local jeweller speaker at Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair • Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa holds AGM • 18 South African companies exhibit at JIS in Miami, Florida • Janine Binneman officially owns The Name Ring design

17 WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

• The showcase cornerstone for watches and luxuries endures a modest contraction

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

• Measuring time in different ways

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

• A Mecca for watch-lovers • Raymond Weil presents its first in-house movement

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

• Omega celebrates 60th anniversary of three iconic watches • A Ferrari design for a Hublot celebrating Ferrari’s 70th anniversary

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo

10. BUSINESS BAROMETER

• New Rolex Sea-Dweller for the Sea-Dweller’s 50th anniversary

A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players on a national basis (March 2017 vs March 2016)

• TAG Heuer’s new Autavia • Tudor reveals its first in-house chronograph

13. JEWELLEX AFRICA Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

The diamond industry’s best at this year’s Jewellex

15. JEWELLERY DESIGN Showcasing talent through the medium of concrete

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

4

A natural wonder in pink

R36,00 (incl VAT)

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

MAY 2017

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

28. LITTLE GEMS

The industry's only trade journal

Watch & Clock Supplement 2017 Showcasing talent through the medium of concrete The diamond industry’s best at this year’s Jewellex

On the cover The country’s most supportive art and design competition, the PPC Imaginarium Awards, announces its winners on 18 May 2017 at the UJ Art Gallery in Johannesburg. Of the 55 finalists, 19 are jewellery submissions which each stand a chance of winning the competition’s grand prize of R150 000. (Cover image credits - photographer: Merwelene van der Merwe; concept: Elzilda Becker; makeup: Maria de Vos; hair: Saadique Ryklief; photographer's assistant: Nicole Louw; model: Funbi Ayinde-Kodaolu from ICE model Management)

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

mothersday-ad-A5-pths.indd 1

30-Mar-17 9:55:53 AM

SM WATCH WHOLESALE (PTY) LTD • Address: No. 9 Bazaar Street, Asiatic Bazaar, Pretoria, South Africa Tel: 012 323 1774 • Fax: 012 325 7097 • E-mail: info@smwatch.co.za • Website: www.smwatch.co.za

RENATA FOCUSES ON RECYCLING SYSTEM FOR WATCH BATTERIES As one of the world’s leading battery producers, Renata SA has again raised the bar through its modified materials and advanced production technologies, one of its latest being a current R&D project which focuses on creating an innovative recycling system for its watch batteries.

Renata SA’s energy fuels diverse products including watches, consumer electronics, RFID and beacons, as well as medical devices and sensors. It provides around one million coin cells a day to customers in over 140 countries and its 0% mercury silver oxide coin cells have set an industry benchmark.

The company offers a broad portfolio of silver oxide, lithium and zinc air batteries. The selection in the silver oxide category is particularly wide. The offering focuses on the differentiation between highdrain and low-drain cells, vital in meeting the high technical demands of the watch sector. This market success is further energised by close collaboration between Renata and the development arms of Swissmade quartz watch manufacturers.

A FULL RANGE OF GOODS AND SERVICES BACKED

UP BY EXPERT PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

IDE INAUGURATES ETHICAL CODE OF CONDUCT The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) has become the first diamond bourse to initiate an Ethical Code of Conduct. The code, which took over two years to complete, requires IDE members to conduct their business interactions according to the principles of accountability, trust, fairness, integrity, expertise, tradition, industriousness, mutual responsibility and respect for others.

The Ethical Code of Conduct was prepared in conjunction with Prof Asa Kasher of Tel Aviv University, noted Israeli philosopher and the author of codes of conduct of several of Israel’s major institutions. The effort was initiated during the term of IDE President Shmuel Schnitzer, led by IDE board member Emma Yanover and Ethical Code Committee Chairman Asher Dalumi, one of the industry’s long-standing members and the founder of Dalumi Diamonds.

IDE President Yoram Dvash says: “The introduction of the Ethical Code of Conduct to the Israeli diamond industry is an important step in our pursuit of transparency and best business practices. It’s indeed a great day for the bourse.”

The Ethical Code of Conduct comes on the heels of IDE’s recent announcement that it is appointing a district court judge to rule on large arbitration cases and appeals, in order to increase transparency and objectivity in the arbitration process.

The code requires IDE members to abide by a series of guidelines, which include: • Showing respect in business dealings for clients, colleagues, employ ees and suppliers, without regard to nationality, ethnicity, religion, colour, gender or status.

• Complying with all legal regulations, co-operating with government authorities and endeavouring to correct any illegal conduct that they encounter.

• Showing mutual responsibility and providing immediate, respectful and significant aid to any member in need.

• Sharing responsibility for the proper functioning of the Israeli dia mond industry, training and mentoring new players and guarding the worldwide reputation of the industry.

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LOCAL JEWELLER SPEAKER AT BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELLERY FAIR Debbie Mouton from Debbie Mouton Jewellers & LU Bag & Bosman Jewellers in Polokwane, Limpopo, was one of the speakers at this year’s 59th Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair at the end of February, which was organised by the Department of International Trade Promotions, Ministry of Commerce, Thailand.

“Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA, selected a few potential candidates to represent SA, among whom I was fortunate enough to be included. The Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy in Pretoria contacted me for a company profile – which I sent immediately – and I was then selected by their Head Office in Thailand,” says Mouton, who is also a member of the Chevron Jewellers Group of SA. The objective of the talk was to focus on the opportunities that exist in the South African jewellery market and how Thai jewellers can expand their brands and products into it. Mouton discussed SA’s consumer behaviour and trends, as well as sourcing raw materials and available distribution channels. “The presentation was a slide show with some interesting videos and facts about our country to a wide audience, including the Thai Academic Director, retailers, wholesalers and students,” says Mouton.

“It was a great honour to represent SA, the Chevron Jewellers Group of SA and the jewellery industry as a whole. The business opportunities are endless and I believe there could be stronger ties between our countries.”

JBJD NOW OFFICIALLY OWNS THE NAME RING DESIGN A few years ago Janine Binneman designed a way for people to tell their story through her greatest passion: jewellery. She created the Name Rings and the rest of the Stacking Ring collection as a way to wear a loved one’s name.

Over time, Binneman’s initiative gained a few copy-cats, but as of 13 March this year, Janine Binneman Jewellery Design (JBJD) has legal ownership of the Name Ring design, which means no other retailers or designers may continue to market them.

Binneman and her team at JBJD are known for producing authentic jewellery. JBJD has grown substantially over the past few years into an increasingly popular local brand.

“People want to wear beautiful jewellery that captures the heart, so we’ve made it our mission to provide just that,” says Binneman.

All pieces are made to the client’s brief and are designed by her.

18 SOUTH AFRICAN COMPANIES EXHIBIT AT JIS IN MIAMI A delegation of 18 South African companies recently exhibited at the Jewelers’ International Showcase (JIS) which was held from 8-10 April in Miami, Florida. JIS is one of the largest jewellery trade shows in the Western Hemisphere and the most popular in the region.

Leading worldwide manufacturers and wholesalers of jewellery market and sell their products and services at the event to thousands of attendees from around the world – mostly from Latin America, the Caribbean, Florida and the rest of the USA. “This was the first time we had the opportunity to exhibit under the Emerging Exporters Scheme of the Department of Trade & Industry, which funded the trip,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA. “It’s our aim to penetrate the American market, as we’re able to take advantage of the AGOA Agreement which allows us to trade freely.”

Referred to as “The Niche” show, the April event is ideally timed for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduation celebrations, the wedding season and summer tourism in the USA. It also offers retailers the opportunity to purchase new inventory and restock following the busy holiday, Valentine’s Day and first-quarter selling periods.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

GIA DEMONSTRATES PROTOTYPE MOUNTED GEM-TESTING DEVICE Later this year, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will introduce for sale an easyto-operate, sophisticated desktop instrument to reliably identify natural diamonds, separating them from all simulants and from stones that may be synthetic or treated.

The GIA’s mounted gem-testing device combines advanced spectroscopic technology, GIA’s extensive research into the qualities of natural, treated and synthetic diamonds and decades of diamond analysis experience to identify more than 97% of untreated natural mounted and unmounted D-Z diamonds 0,9 mm or greater in diameter (approximately 0,005ct). Diamonds thought to be synthetic or treated and all simulants are referred for further examination and confirmation.

The new instrument will be priced to be accessible to the trade.

“There’s perhaps no greater issue in the gem and jewellery trade today than concerns about the possibility of undisclosed synthetic diamonds being inadvertently sold to consumers,” says GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques. “This new instrument is the culmination of more than 60 years of GIA research into synthetic diamonds and will give the trade – including retail jewellers – the ability to have immediate confidence in their diamonds.”

Dr Wuyi Wang, GIA’s Director of Research & Development, demonstrated a functioning prototype of the instrument in Surat, India, on 14 April during the Diamond Detection Expo & Symposium sponsored by the Gem & Jewellery Export Council. The GIA is conducting further research and development to extend the capabilities of the instrument to identify natural pink diamonds and other materials.

Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory & Research Officer, says: “Synthetic diamonds are becoming more prevalent in the market and, if they’re disclosed, are a legitimate choice for consumers. The GIA and other gemmological laboratories play a critical role in ensuring that disclosure.”

The GIA’s mounted gem-testing device is the latest in a series of innovative, researchbased instruments and services from the organisation that address concerns in the trade about the possibility of undisclosed synthetic or treated diamonds in the supply chain.

For decades, all diamonds submitted to the GIA for grading have been analysed to definitively identify any synthetic or treated stones.

The GIA extended that laboratory-based capability with the GIA DiamondCheckTM, which was made available to diamond bourses around the world free of charge in 2014.

In December 2016, the GIA introduced its Melee Analysis ServiceTM to rapidly and efficiently separate natural, untreated melee-sized diamonds from simulants and stones that are potentially treated or synthetic.

DIAMOND DEALERS CLUB OF SA HOLDS AGM The Diamond Dealers Club of SA held its annual general meeting on 4 April at 3 Sturdee Avenue in Rosebank, Johannesburg.

During the meeting, office-bearers and the Executive Committee were elected.

Ernie Blom will remain the DDCSA’s Chairman, with Molefi Letsiki as Vice-Chairman. Prince Mbetse, Nielette Henderson and Angela Yeung were elected as new members, while Michael Ellis, David Woolf, Benny Gabay, Trevor Temkin, Alan Lowe, Hadi Ezzeddine, Tomer Doron, Lior Sitton, Lionel Noach, Nash Parag and Benjamin Narcyz will remain on the committee.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN amongst industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

RETAILERS

0 %

0

% SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

% SAME

50 %

bridal

50 % Foot traffic

MANUFACTURERS

50

50 %

fine jewellery

online sales

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

0% UP

0 %

0

100 %

35% 75% 15%

100 %

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% SAME

DOWN 50%

100 % DOWN 41.5%

50

50 %

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

0,5ct

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% SAME

% SAME

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Best-selling diamond size

General sales compared with last year this time

0 % Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

DOWN 23%

0% UP

0 %

0% UP

% SAME

DIAMOND DEALERS

0% UP

MAR 2017 VS MAR 2016

DOWN 30%

16 14 12 10

2015

8

2016

6

2017

4 2 0

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

(Above): The above illustrates year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

Tel: +27 11 418-1600 • Fax: +27 11 825-4043 • Cell: +27 82 556-7316 • E-mail: info@richlinesa.co.za • Website: www.richlinesa.co.za

Physical Address: 225 Main Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg, 2001 • Postal Address: PO Box 61212, Marshalltown, 2107 Tel: (+27) 011 334 2691 • Fax: (+27) 011 334 1540 • Email: infosdt@statediamondtrader.gov.za

JEWELLEX AFRICA

The diamond industry's best at this year's Jewellex JEWELLEX AFRICA IS A FORUM FOR AND BY the local industry, offering the buyer a wide variety of merchandise lines of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious metals, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services.

The fair has established a reputation over the years for being the premier showcase for the South African manufacturer and distributor and, by growing Jewellex into Jewellex Africa, has expanded its offering to include neighbouring countries and international exhibitors, acknowledging that SA is part of a global market.

The Diamond Pavilion has been a significant part of Jewellex Africa for the past two years and provides a platform where visitors can trade with small diamantaires, diamond jewellery wholesalers and diamond jewellery brands. It also provides an opportunity to see what diamond training is out there and develop relationships with diamond laboratories. Futhi Zikalala Mvelase explains why it was significant for the State Diamond Trader to sponsor this year’s pavilion.

Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and attracts exhibitors and buyers from within the country, as well as from African states and international countries. This year’s event will again feature an impressive diamond pavilion. SAJN talks to Futhi Zikalala Mvelase, CEO of the State Diamond Trader of SA, who will be sponsoring this year’s pavilion.

Why is it important for local diamond traders to exhibit at the Diamond Pavilion?

This is a marketing opportunity for local diamond traders and manufacturers. The Diamond Pavilion is a platform which is now in full view of a significant number of jewellers, traders and buyers, who spend three days at Jewellex in general. In addition, this will send a positive message to South African and international players that the local diamond industry is keeping up with global standards and maintaining its status, while also seeking ways to grow further. The Diamond Pavilion occupies a premier position within Jewellex and, as such, it provides that premier position to diamond manufacturers and traders who exhibit there.

How long have you been a part of the diamond industry and the State Diamond Trader in particular?

I've been in the diamond industry and the State Diamond Trader since 2007, when I served firstly as a board member and later as the Chief Executive Officer.

What is the main objective of the State Diamond Trader?

It was established to serve as a platform for the acquisition of rough diamonds by the local diamond manufacturing industry. Its objectives are to provide equitable access to rough diamonds mined in SA and to make appropriate interventions designed to contribute to the growth of the local diamond industry.

Why did the State Diamond Trader decide to sponsor this year’s Diamond Pavilion?

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

In 2015, the State Diamond Trader resolved to engage the Jewellery Council of SA, as Jewellex organiser, on ways to improve the face of and expand Jewellex, thereby bringing in new energy to this premier event. That led to the advent of the Diamond Pavilion in 2015. The State Diamond Trader further believes that a long-term anchor to this new idea is important, so it makes sense to sponsor it this year. It also shows the State Diamond Trader’s commitment to the success of the Diamond Pavilion project.

Have you attended Jewellex Africa before?

Yes, I have and continue to do so annually.

Why is an event like Jewellex Africa important for the local industry?

It's important for all local industry members – both diamond and jewellery manufacturers – to market their products and their businesses. Jewellex also has a duty to maintain high standards in order to remain relevant and attractive to the industry.

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JEWELLERY DESIGN

Showcasing talent through the medium of concrete

FOLLOWING A REGIONAL judging process that took place in January and February 2017, 55 finalists have been chosen from across SA and will move on to the prestigious national judging round of the PPC Imaginarium Awards. The country’s most supportive art and design prize has once again garnered unprecedented attention from aspiring creatives, achieving a record number of 869 registered entries, exceeding last year’s total of 698 entrants.

The finalists were chosen from the competition’s various categories, namely film, industrial design, sculpture, fashion and jewellery.

This year, no architecture finalists were selected. The overall winner, category winners and runners-up will be announced on 18 May 2017 at the UJ Art Gallery in Johannesburg. The overall winner will walk away with a total cash prize of R150 000, while category winners and runners-up will each be awarded R50 000 and R15 000 respectively.

The finalists’ submissions were judged by a prestigious panel of industry experts, including well-known architect and Director of the awards Daniel van der Merwe, fashion and design consultant Allana Finley and visual artist Stephen Hobbs. Other noteworthy regional judges included esteemed fine artist Mary Sibande, award-winning filmmaker Wessel van Huyssteen and Gallery MOMO Cape Town Director Igsaan Martin.

The high number of registered entries resulted in a selection of interesting and diverse submissions that exceeded the expectations of the judges. Not only were the physical entries intriguing, but the standard of the work exceeded that of previous years.

“There was a noticeable progression of the physical submissions this year,” says Martin. “It’s evident that entrants are researching the limitations of concrete and delivering this knowledge within their artworks. The outcome was innova-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

The country’s most supportive art and design competition, the PPC Imaginarium Awards, announces its winners on 18 May 2017 at the UJ Art Gallery in Johannesburg. Of the 55 finalists, 19 are jewellery submissions which each stand a chance of winning the competition’s grand prize of R150 000. tive submissions of exceptional quality.”

Finley adds: “I was impressed by the inventiveness of works submitted during the awards’ 2016/2017 cycle. It was inspiring to witness the way entrants incorporated the medium of concrete into their submissions and were able to do so across PPC Imaginarium’s various categories. I was excited to find that a big portion of the entries were commercially viable and globally relevant, which is an important aspect to consider with a global partner like PPC Ltd.” A project of the Innovation Department of PPC Ltd, the PPC Imaginarium Awards challenge artists and designers to express their creative abilities using cement as the primary medium. This criterion has always resulted in an array of exciting and imaginative works that truly demonstrate the versatility and unexpected beauty of concrete – and this year is no exception.

Members of the public will be able to engage with the finalists’ work at a number of galleries and events across the country, including 100% Design South Africa, the Turbine Art Fair and the KZNSA Gallery, in addition to the exhibition at the UJ Art Gallery. This travelling showcase, supported by Stuttafords Van Lines, will see the finalists’ work gain widespread industry and public exposure.

The list of the PPC Imaginarium Awards

2016/2017 finalists in the jewellery category are as follows: Elmarie Burger Christine Botha Ryan Roberts and Ingrid Jones Roberts Priscilla Brown Aleks Ashton Deon de Lange Geraldine Fenn Manuel Mpho Helepi Tshegofatso Makgatho Nkosinathi Mhlongo Lydia-Comfort Ntakanyane Molaba Thato Radebe Jessica Roetz Rela Venter Zanele Vilakazi Sonja Zytkow Gabrielle Lourens Zanele Abigail Shongwe Kenan Petersen

About the PPC Imaginarium Awards In 2014, PPC extended its existing sculpture, fine art and industrial design competition (the Young Concrete Sculptor Awards) to include the creative disciplines of jewellery design, fashion design, architecture and film to form the Imaginarium Awards. This ambitious competition aims to provide emerging artists and designers with the opportunity to showcase their talents through the medium of concrete.

15

“The hardness of a diamond is part of its usefulness, but its true value is in the light that shines though it.”

B.K.S Iyengar

ROMANELLI DIAMONDS SUPPLIERS OF POLISHED DIAMOND SMALLS AND CERTIFIED POLISHED DIAMONDS Suite G9, 3 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, 2196 Tel: 010 020 6808 • Orders: 010 020 6810 E-mail: orders@romanelli.co.za

supplement

2017

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

Contraction of the showcase cornerstone for watches and luxu The Baselworld Show for 2017 has ended and soon the glitz, glitter and bling of the new releases will be unveiled to retail buyers as the superb new models become progressively available in the showcases of brand boutiques around the world. Martin Foster attended this year’s event.

2016 WAS A TURBULENT YEAR FOR THE industry which involved brand manufacturers in stock buy-backs to counter a fractious, unpredictable buyer demand. The buy-back, a further distortion of free market economics, may brace the brand’s heady price control in the short term, but the long term is another matter. It may simply create higher cliffs to jump from if the luxuries downturn persists.

This capricious and volatile buyer behaviour had its roots in the 2009 global financial crisis (GFC), but was given new life by the November 2015 terrorist event in Paris, the enduring corruption clampdown in China and a deep-seated, global constituent suspicion of the snollygoster politicians we entrust with steering our families’ lives towards a stable future.

18

(Above): An example of the new products at Baselworld, the Hysek “Colossal” – a 100% in-house Grande Complication of which only eight pieces are to be made – includes a perpetual calendar in which every display uses a roller. This unprecedented piece boasts over 1 000 components and took three years to develop.

Thus we have mounting global uncertainty, with Brexit disrupting the UK and the EU, the USA election of Donald Trump, Russian shenanigans with the democratic process and politicians with spines of damp clay where intelligent courage is required to deal with pressing global issues.

To top it off, at the time of writing, Presidents Trump and Putin are engaged in a verbal faceoff over Syria with 60-odd Tomahawk missiles hurtling blindly through volatile, politically

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

charged air. Is it any wonder that luxury watch buyers are quietly retreating?

Despite a steady annual improvement (off a low base) following the economic plunge of the 2009 GFC, Baselworld Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee President François Thiébaud reported that Swiss watch exports decreased 9,9% in value terms to CHF19,4 billion in 2016, which followed a 3,2% decline in 2015 and watch exports were further penalised by the valuation of the Swiss franc. February figures released by the Swiss Federation FH during the Baselworld show revealed no let-up in the declining export statistics of the Swiss luxury brands.

Rumours of dissatisfaction and insurrection were circulating during the show in the ranks of small to medium-sized exhibitors. The bigger brands have the financial reserves to weather a downturn, but even among these, there was the reported defection of Hermès to the Geneva SIHH for January 2018. GirardPerregaux and Ulysse Nardin already made this strategic/economic decision last year.

Finally, in an announcement on the last day of the eight-day 2017 show, Baselworld acknowledged the reality of a pervasive cycle of contraction by reducing the 2018 edition by two days, thus directly reducing participation costs for exhibitors – and this at a time when, coincidentally, Basel Fair celebrates its centenary.

uries

What was new at Baselworld 2017?

Well, the Swiss still make the best watches, even if they’re seriously mistaken in their refusal, based on contrived nonsense, to supply essential parts to service them.

Of the new releases for 2017, the big brands were conservative in their R&D, so with a few excellent exceptions from Patek Philippe and TAG, it was a fairly quiet year for the tech-heads.

Patek has remastered the silicon balance spring to provide an exceptionally good rate stability of better than -1/+2 s/day in series production. And Patek demonstrated another innovation for activating its calendar complication that dispenses with multiple conventional parts.

TAG is making great strides in adapting the hybrid possibilities evolving with smartwatch technologies and will certainly be well rewarded by a loyal buyer following.

Seiko announced that Grand Seiko is being set free as an independent company, ostensibly to pursue its own haute horlogerie destiny, though it is not clear how detaching from the global company will help it do so. It is probably another step for GS in its move away from being a Japanese market-only brand.

The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) is always good value and well worth a visit. Here can be found fierce independence, deep understanding and profound horological knowledge. If you buy from one of the AHCI makers, you are absolutely assured of outstanding quality, pricing related to work done and – above all – a chance to actually talk to the person who made your timepiece. That is unique in the world today.

At the AHBI you can also find Bob Bray, the upfront standard-bearer for English clockmaking today.

Bray took over the Sinclair Harding clockmaking company in 1995 and since then it has flourished, even in difficult conditions. Overall it sold

over 45 new pieces with a retail value, through various brand retailers, exceeding £1 million.

Describing his experience of the Baselworld show, Sebastian Naeschke, proprietor of Matthias Naeschke Clocks, said: “The first two days were very quiet, but then the weekend turned out very well. I met my most important customers and they placed orders.

I also found new customers, but I noticed that there were far fewer visitors, especially from Asia.

I read that over 4 000 journalists attended Baselworld, but only one visited the AHCI stand. The event surely needs to provide improved product promotion.” The elegance of Naeschke clocks is only understood by standing in front of one and letting its exquisite ambience speak for itself.

Tools no longer enjoy a dedicated hall, as the number of exhibitors in this field has completely dwindled. This may be due to the high cost of space at Baselworld and the fact that there are alternative dedicated tool expositions emerging in Switzerland which attract a very focused clientele.

So there we have it – but note that this review provides only a fleeting glimpse of this spectacular event. Make plans to come next year and see it for yourself.

The 2018 Baselworld show will be shortened to six days, from 22-27 March.

(Above): From Bavarian clockmaker Erwin Sattler in collaboration with Czech glass artist Jan Frydrych is this flawless, gleaming sculpture in which a marine clock is embedded with a world time display and power reserve indicator. Weight: 55 kg.

(Left): The Planet Ocean “Big Blue” signals the first time that Omega has made a case entirely from blue ceramic. It also features a blue ceramic dial with an orange GMT track and hands, as well as indexes in 18ct white gold with a white Super-Luminova coating.

(Far left): Patek Philippe Advanced Research will launch two important innovations of horological design. One is the new Spiromax® balance spring of Silinvar and the second is a compliant (flexible) mechanism used to set the second time zone.

The brand is launching the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref 5650 Patek Philippe Advanced Research in a limited edition of 500 watches, the first ones to be endowed with both the new developments.

(Left): Rolex introduced a new model to its Cellini collection, the Cellini Moonphase, featuring an exclusive display of the lunar cycle. The Cellini Moonphase also displays the date around the circumference of the dial via a centre hand with a crescent moon at its tip. This new model is astronomically accurate for 122 years.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

(Above): Watch industry exports declined further in February 2017. At CHF1,5 billion, their value was 10% lower than in February 2016, though still in line with the downturn reported for the whole of last year.

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

Measuring time in different ways The introduction of a stopwatch function on a wristwatch dates back to 1910, when it was mainly used by sportsmen and the military. But chronographs – for that is what they are – have become a popular choice in more recent times among both men and women, perhaps for their fascinating appearance even more than their functions.

THE TERMS “CHRONOGRAPH” AND “CHRONOmeter” are often used indiscriminately, but they are in fact two different types of watches.

The chronograph was invented by a Frenchman named Nicolas Rieussec in 1821 and he was granted a patent for his invention. Originally, a more accurate name might have been a chronoscope, as it actually entailed writing on the dial of the timepiece with a small pen attached to the index. There is, of course, no writing involved any longer.

Chronographs are watches that measure time in different ways, besides normal timekeeping. The dials of these watches have special time measurements with a scale from which these can be read. A central second hand can be started and stopped without interfering with continuous time. It acts like a normal second hand on depressing the button at 4 o’clock.

There are many types of chronograph watches. Analogue watches show both time and stopwatch functions with analogue hands and typically, the central hand is used for the stopwatch functions. The sub-dials may indicate seconds, stopwatch minutes and hours and, in some quartz

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chromos, tenths or hundredths of a second.

The dial design of a chronograph depends on the number of subsidiary dials, which can be two, three or even four. One of them is usually on the “9” side and shows the continuous seconds. After one full circle is completed and the hand has returned to “12”, the minute indicator – which is located at the “3” – jumps one position. In a simple type of chrono, a period of 30 or 45 minutes can be measured. A more complicated one will have a sub-register for total hours located at 6 o’clock on the dial.

But even a very simple chrono will have a complicated movement.

Digital chronographs obviously use digital displays both for timekeeping and stopwatch functions, either with separate displays or switching methods on a single display. Analogue-digital chronographs have a standard analogue watch with a permanent centre seconds and a separate digital display that usually operates independently of the analogue section. It can be reset to zero, continuing to run while the reset button is depressed, and still continues running while the stopwatch is operating. However, most mechanical chronographs will reset to zero only when the stopwatch is stopped.

A flyback chronograph is a more complicated watch. Developed by Breitling in 1923, it was the first watch with a separate button for the stop and restart functions, which were previously controlled by the winding crown. In this version, you can use the reset function without

first having to stop the chrono; in the regular version of chronographs, you need to stop, reset and restart the function if you want to time an event after you have started the mechanism.

This refers to everyday life, but there are also some other functions, such as world time, universal time or power reserve. Most of these are made with the usual crown at 3 o’clock and two pushpieces at 2 and 4 o’clock, with the one at 2 o’clock used to stop the function. Watches which are intended for pilots are usually fitted with the flyback function, as it is much simpler and time-saving to instantly restart the chronograph with one push of the button, rather than three.

In 1934 Breitling chronographs introduced a second button, which had the function of returning the second hand to zero, making it possible to time short intervals. However, the first patent of the flyback chronograph belongs to Longines and is dated 1936.

It was many years before the self-winding movement was used in the production process, although the first self-winding pocket watch was invented in 1778 by Abraham Louis Perrelet and it took almost 150 years for a patent to be issued for a wristwatch to John Harwood.

Most chronographs were initially used for sporting events, but today wearing one is a matter of taste, rather than professional.

It has become a fashion statement. However, for many professionals, special timepieces are made with specific applications.

Most chronographs were initially used for sporting events, but today wearing one is a matter of taste, rather than professional. It has become a fashion statement.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

Celebrating 70 years of watchmaking passion 1947 saw the foundation of French watchmaking company Michel Herbelin, which this year celebrates its 70th birthday. An anniversary watch commemorating those seven decades of watchmaking was launched at this year’s Baselworld.

AT THIS YEAR’S BASELWORLD, MICHEL Herbelin celebrated its 70th anniversary. Set within its opulent exhibit, it served the finest French treats and musical accompaniment to celebrate this momentous occasion.

Michel Herbelin founded his eponymous, independent brand last century, a family-owned traditional French watchmaking company in Charquemont, in the Swiss border region of Haut-Doubs. Set in the heart of haute horlogerie country – close to its main suppliers to ensure absolute control over production – the company has its own design studio within the workshops where watches are assembled.

Beautifully made, Michel Herbelin watches are exclusively equipped with Swiss movements. In 2016, annual production reached 85 000 watches, with distribution through 3 000 points of sale across 50 countries. Heir to a watchmaking tradition stretching back over 70 years, this Jura brand is spurred on by the passion of a family who have seen three generations take up the craft since 1947. Today Pierre-Michel Herbelin is at the helm as CEO, working alongside three of the founder’s grandchildren in the design and marketing departments – all of them driving forward the venture begun by their forefathers.

An anniversary watch commemorating those seven decades of watchmaking was

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

launched at this year’s Baselworld in a numbered limited series of 500 worldwide. Paying tribute to the past, this new timepiece – christened Inspiration 1947 – also brings beauty to the present moment, beating to the rhythm of its manually wound mechanical movement.

While naturally drawing inspiration from the watch designs of its earliest years – 1947 to 1950 – Michel Herbelin has taken painstaking care over every detail of its anniversary model to anchor it in the 21st century.

The case measures 40 mm in diameter, its design a ubiquity of rounded curves extending into refined, plain lugs. A domed dial shelters beneath an answering curve of sapphire crystal, set off by the polished yellow gold that plates the steel case. Patterned with a matte silver sunburst, the dial heightens this model’s understated aesthetic with two hands in finely curved dagger shapes that sweep around a clearly set out minute track punctuated by gilded appliqué hour-markers. With a date aperture discreetly set at 3 o’clock, the classicism of the overall design is subtly roused by the graphic starkness of the dial’s small seconds counter.

Lovers of beauty will appreciate Michel Herbelin’s single-minded attention to the finish of each tiny detail – like the ribbed, ball-shaped crown set with a blue cabochon, or the watch strap made from gold leather, artisanally hand-

(Above): Gary Hopkins, Luxco National Sales Manager with Pierre Michel Herbelin, CEO of Michel Herbelin and Lynne Anderson, Luxco General Manager.

finished for a patina that brings the final touch of elegance to the timeless design of this commemorative timepiece.

True to the watchmaking conventions of the 1950s, Inspiration 1947 is fitted with a manually wound mechanical movement – the first seen at Michel Herbelin since 1970. As ever, a Swiss-made calibre was selected to guarantee reliability and sturdiness. The 24-jewelled Sellita 11½ SW216-1 oscillates at a frequency of 28 800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42hour power reserve. The circular graining and Côtes de Genève pattern of its workings can be admired through a transparent case-back.

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

A Mecca for watch-lovers The birthplace of many of the world’s most exclusive timepieces lies between Geneva and Basel in the Jura Mountains in southwest Switzerland. The area is part of the history of the Swiss watchmaking tradition and this terrain has become known as the Swiss Watchmaking Route.

THE AREA HOUSES NUMEROUS MUSEUMS, many of them specific to the brands, but of prime importance is the International Museum of Horology which is tucked away in a quiet spot in the mountainside adjacent to La Chaux-de-Fonds. It is known as Watch Valley (or, properly, Joux Valley) and, apart from timepieces through the ages (beginning with a bell tower clock), it also houses the tools which made the industrialisation of watch manufacture possible.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the twin towns of Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds

– which are now Unesco World Heritage Sites, in recognition of their horological and cultural past – set the stage for an era of watchmaking.

For more than a century, some 90% of Swiss production was concentrated in the Jura, which was regarded as the centre of fine watchmaking and dominated the world industry.

This small valley houses some of the world’s most prestigious watch brands, as well as suppliers of parts. A wealth of experience has accumulated here through manufacturers, artisans and small workshops, with skills passed down from father to son. It is brimming with history, recorded in the many private museums maintained in the valley.

These mementoes include music boxes, automata, singing birds, an enchanted forest and other interesting exhibits ranging from 1796 to the present day, as well as a wall clock collection which combines the tradition with the know-how of craftsmen of the region. Included is a grandfather clock donated by a South African watch-lover. It reflects a history of time measurement from its earliest origins.

In the 17th century, watchmaking skills were spread far and wide among Jura farmers, who were glad of an additional occupation and in-

come that enabled them to survive the long, snowbound winters when they were unable to work their frozen lands. It was in effect a cottage industry, each farmer working from his own farmhouse.

Parts were made and assembled by hand. However, a new order was in the process of being established – a re-organisation of labour known as “establissage”, which gradually gave way to industrialisation by bringing workers together in a single area.

Among the haute horlogerie brands behind the legend of the Joux Valley are Audemars Piguet, a master of horology since 1875, Patek Philippe, JeanRichard, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Girard-Perregaux. Audemars Piguet is still in the hands of the founding fathers’ family, with more than 190 years of activity in the area; the number of complex watches in its museum make it one of the major private museums among the many.

The Villa Margherita, which was acquired

by Girard-Perregaux in 1908 in La Chauxde-Fonds, contains tools from the past three centuries. Covering the period since the Daniel JeanRichard villa built in the same year, it is one of the crown jewels of this town. A 17th-century Jura farmhouse recalls the environment of a watchmaker way back in the origins of the craft.

The valley is a watch-lover’s paradise!

For more than a century, some 90% of Swiss production was concentrated in the Jura, which was regarded as the centre of fine watchmaking and dominated the world industry.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

HUBLOT MARKS FERRARI’S 70TH ANNIVERSARY

To celebrate Ferrari’s 70th anniversary, Hublot presented the Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph. The watch was designed

by Ferrari using the same creative process as that used to develop a new sports car.

The starting point for the designers was the Hublot movement, around which they freely designed a high-performance chassis. The black structure on the dial holds the chronograph counters and offers excellent legibility. The crown at 4 o’clock – raised by a black PVD titanium insert decorated with the famous prancing horse – reduces the size of the watch as much as possible and increases its aerodynamic look. Finally, the red pushbutton is strategically placed to facilitate its use and makes the design more ergonomic.

Available in king gold and titanium versions, the new Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph is also offered in polyether ether ketone carbon, a multi-layer hypo-allergenic material (made from particularly long carbon fibres) that is extremely durable and reliable.

60TH ANNIVERSARY OF THREE ICONIC WATCHES In 1957, Omega released three professional timepieces: the Seamaster 300, the Railmaster and the Speedmaster.

Today the Swiss brand is paying tribute to these three mechanical masterpieces by releasing special 60th anniversary editions of each model.

The “Broad Arrow” was not only the first Speedmaster, but was also the first chronograph wristwatch in the world with its tachymeter scale on the bezel, as opposed to printed on the dial. The new 2017 Speedmaster stays true to the original design with its perfect match of the original 1957 tachymeter. The 1957 Railmaster was designed for those working close to electrical fields and though the new

TUDOR REVEALS ITS FIRST IN-HOUSE CHRONOGRAPH Tudor has added a new model to the famous Heritage Black Bay: its first in-house chronograph with Manufacture Calibre MT5813, column wheel and vertical clutch. The new hybrid Heritage Black Bay Chrono combines the aquatic heritage represented by the Black Bay family with the

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model retains the original’s unpretentious style, its Master Chronometer 8806 movement takes anti-magnetic to a whole new level, resisting fields of 15 000 gauss.

The new Seamaster 300 features a black aluminium bezel and retains the famous Naïad sign on the crown, which back in 1957 was a mark of exceptional water-resistance. Each watch is limited to 3 557 pieces and is delivered inside a presentation box inspired by the original 1957 packaging, right down to the seahorse on the lid, a retro logo and beige corduroy lining.

The box also contains two spare straps, leather and NATO, as well as a tool to change them.

queen of the racetrack, the chronograph.

Boasting a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, the manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813 that drives the Heritage Black Bay Chrono model is a high-performance movement. Crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, it features a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the Tudor philosophy of quality, it features extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by an array of extreme tests applied to all Tudor products.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT

NEW ROLEX SEA-DWELLER FOR 50TH ANNIVERSARY Rolex has introduced the latest generation of its Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, a legend among professional divers’ watches created 50 years ago in 1967. The new Sea-Dweller features a larger, 43 mm case and the new calibre 3235, at the forefront of watchmaking technology and employed for the first time in a Rolex Professional category watch.

To enhance the reading of the date, it is equipped (also for the first time) with a Cyclops lens on the crystal at 3 o’clock. The dial bears the name Sea-Dweller in red, a reference to the first model. Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the

Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015 to ensure singular performance on the wrist.

Waterproof to 1 220 m, the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller was originally designed for the pioneers of professional deep-sea diving. It is equipped with one of the inventions that contributed to its stature: the helium escape valve, patented by Rolex in 1967. While preserving the water-resistance of the watch, this ingenious safety valve regulates the pressure accumulated in the case during the decompression phases of deep-water saturation dives.

RAYMOND WEIL PRESENTS ITS FIRST IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT

TAG HEUER’S NEW AUTAVIA TAG Heuer has announced the rebirth of its iconic Autavia chronograph. The original Autavia was the first wrist chronograph with a rotating bezel designed by Jack Heuer back in 1962.

The new Autavia case is 42 mm in diameter with a 12-hour graduated bezel and is equipped with a new Heuer-02 calibre proprietary chronograph movement. The chronograph carries the DNA and aesthetic codes of the original, updated for today's market.

Its functions are tailored to modern requirements: a self-winding calibre, power reserve of 80 hours, date at 6 o’clock and water-resistance to 100 m. In black aluminium, the bi-directional notched bezel encircles a black dial with three white snailed counters in an optimal layout. It is a legible, balanced display with hands and appliqué indexes in steel coated with beige Super-Luminova.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

Raymond Weil has created a new movement in collaboration with Sellita. This exclusive movement was developed and designed by the R&D department of the Geneva watch company and produced by the movement manufacturer based in Le Crêt-du-Locle in the Jura Mountains.

Its distinctive characteristic is the 6 o’clock front-dial positioning of its regulating organ. It is named Calibre RW1212 as a nod to the postal code of the company headquarters in GrandLancy. The movement is housed in Freelancer “Calibre RW1212”.

The balance-and-spring assembly, held by two bridges, reveals a construction echoing that of the most beautiful tourbillon regulators. The Freelancer “Calibre RW1212” is a two-hand model providing an understated display of the hours and minutes. It took 18 months for the R&D team at Raymond Weil to develop the movement and design the dial. All the elements were redesigned and pared down in order to endow this in-house movement with subtle transparency. The calibre then sprang to life in the hands of the Sellita watchmakers.

BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HOROLUM Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horolum is based on the traditional 12-3-6-9 sandwich dial, with military inspiration. Luminous material was used on the hands and indices to create a watch which is visible both by day and night.

The entire case, dial and hands are of matte-blasted metal. The Bell & Ross BR 0392 Horolum limited edition of 500 pieces is mounted a grey-green leather strap and is powered by an ETA-like automatic movement.

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LITTLE GEMS

SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG HAS PLAYED AN important role in hosting the sale of many outstanding stones, including the 118,26ct oval D-colour flawless diamond sold in October 2013, which still holds the record for any white diamond, as well as the fancy vivid blue 10,10ct De Beers Millennium Jewel 4, which set a record for any jewel sold at auction in Asia in 2016.

The market still remains buoyant for the world’s finest diamonds and gems and over the years, Sotheby’s Hong Kong has offered many of these. Formerly known as the Pink Dream, but renamed the Pink Star by Sotheby’s, is an oval-shaped gem of 59,60ct of mixed cuts.

The Pink Star is the largest known internally flawless fancy pink diamond that the GIA has ever graded. Its colour ranges from pale to deep pink and the estimated value is in excess of US$60 million. It is the most valuable cut diamond ever offered on auction and was part of the sale in April by Sotheby’s Hong Kong as the leading item of magnificent jewels.

The extraordinary size of the stone, as well as its richness of colour, surpass those of any other pink diamond ever recorded. The source of the pink colour is assumed to be the pressure to which the stone was subjected while being propelled to the surface. And its price is assessed according to its hue.

The Pink Star is more than twice the size of the Graff Pink – a 24,78ct fancy intense pink stone that currently holds the world auction record for any diamond – which was auctioned in Geneva in 2010 for US$446,22 million, marking a record for any diamond or gemstone sold at that time. The Unique Pink, a 15,38ct stone, was sold in 1916.

Ideal pink diamonds are generally considered to be those which exhibit a pure pink colour, as opposed to those which occur in hues ranging from brown-pink to purple-pink. Generally speaking, a vivid pink diamond is more valuable than a larger, lighter pink one. The oldest pink diamonds are the Daria-iNoor and the Noor-ul-Ain, both of which are part of the Iranian Crown Jewels.

Pink diamonds occur in fancy light pink, fancy pink, fancy intense pink, fancy vivid pink and fancy deep/dark pink. The colour is judged according to saturation and tone, as are all other fancy coloured diamonds. The more vivid-intensity pink diamonds are far rarer. They are also graded for their intensity. While the four Cs in grading (carat, colour, clarity and cut) were originally decreed for colourless diamonds, they are

A natural wonder in pink

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It has been reported that there is an unprecedented demand for the finest coloured diamonds. A truly magnificent pink diamond, which has received the highest possible colour and quality grades from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), was reportedly mined in Africa in the last century by De Beers. Alice Weil looks at pink diamonds, a rare group of sub-stones which comprise less than 2% of all gem diamonds. also taken into account when assessing pink diamonds, though the most important criterion in the case of the Pink Star is its colour.

Regarding the shape of a fancy colour diamond, the general rule is that round coloured ones are more expensive, but they are rare. Gemstone collectors are fascinated by the world’s great natural resources and the Pink Star is regarded as a masterpiece beyond description in our vocabulary, the GIA has stated.

The world record for any diamond or gemstones has been held by the Blue Moon of Josephine – a 12,03ct cushion-shaped internally flawless fancy vivid blue sapphire sold in Geneva in 2015, which notched up a world record of US$2 052,094 per carat. The Unique Pink held the world record for any vivid fancy pink diamond until 2016.

A pink diamond is only considered valuable and an investment if it is pink from its inception.

Natural diamonds have been coloured pink with limited success, but it is more common to find laboratory-grown (synthetic) stones that

are pink. While these are chemically the same as mined diamonds, their value is proportionally much lower.

Pink diamonds were originally discovered in Asia. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, they were being discovered in the Minas Geras region of Brazil and are still found in Golconda mines. Currently the majority of these gems are found in the Argyle mines of Western Australia, but of the mine’s annual output, only 0,2% are classified as pink. After the diamonds are polished, this figure reduces further, making the diamonds even more difficult to obtain.

In 1947, the then Princess Elizabeth of England received a 23,6ct pink diamond from Canadian geologist Dr John Williamson, who had it set in a brooch designed as a jonquil by Cartier. Today it remains one of the queen’s favourite pieces of jewellery. However, the real demand for pink diamonds came in 1992, when movie star Ben Affleck presented Jennifer “J-Lo” Lopez with a 6,1ct pink diamond engagement ring, catapulting the gem into the public mindset. That marked the rise in prices of pink diamonds that still exists today.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2017

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