SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • November 2020 by Isikhova Media

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NOVEMBER 2020 12:45 PM

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• 2020 brings upheavals to the fair formats

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• Meet jewellery designer Natasha Swart

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• Security, safety and robbery preparedness

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• Gold – a safe haven, or too hot to handle?

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BYL 210mm(w) x 181mm(h) mm(h) Loose2020.pdf

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SAJN |CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za

11. NEWS

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

• Digital JCSA membership certificates now available

Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za

• Diamonds Do Good grants distri buted to Tanzania and Botswana

Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Sales Director: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

• CIBJO soon to complete operating standards for lab-grown diamonds

• Christie’s sets US$10 million price tag on Muzo necklace • Third edition of best-selling Laboratory-Grown Diamonds set for release • Israel and UAE diamond exchanges sign collaboration agreement • First programme to educate and certify CSR, sustainability and SDG officers

Media Specialist: Lamees Mahomed Cell: 084-590-5123 E-mail: lamees@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lori Zavattoni Cell: 083-229-7873 E-mail: lori@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Gail Keogh Cell: 082-929-4935 E-mail: gail@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ruwayda Mahomed Cell: 072-383-3203 E-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za

28. RISK ASSESSMENT 14. GOLD The spike in the gold price has every person and their dog interested in investing in the yellow metal. Is this a good idea? History may provide some context, writes Michael Kruger.

16. SWISS FAIR REVIEWS The Swiss timepiece exhibitions have all now morphed out of recognition. Brand releases, industry PR events and new promo announcements are coming thick and fast, writes reviewer for the Horological Journal in the UK, Martin Foster.

It is critical that people understand that security is made up of three equally important elements – physical, personnel and procedures. These are referred to as the “three Ps of security”, Shannon Brook, security advisor and trainer, tells SAJN.

31. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.

27. DIAMONDS The Board of Directors of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released a laboratory-grown diamond guidance document for review by officers and members of affiliated national associations and representatives of commercial members.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

CONTENTS|SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

R36,00 (incl VAT)

NOVEMBER 2020 BYL 210mm(w) x 181mm(h) mm(h) Loose2020.pdf

10/26/20

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32. JEWELLERY DESIGN

36. WATCHES The timepieces presented this year by renowned Swiss watch brand Rolex are equipped with movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology.

38. LITTLE GEMS Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches.

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• 2020 brings upheavals to the fair formats

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• Meet jewellery designer Natasha Swart

The De Beers Group has welcomed the second intake of five diamond polishing and jewellery manufacturing companies that will participate in its Enterprise Development Project for Diamond Beneficiators.

• Security, safety and robbery preparedness

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35. DIAMONDS

• Gold – a safe haven, or too hot to handle?

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A qualified pharmacist, Natasha van Heyningen dabbled in various creative courses which led her to realise that her ultimate fulfilment was in jewellery.

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On the cover B.Y.L Diamonds is one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery wholesalers. It proudly stocks the following top quality goods: certified diamonds and tanzanite, calibrated round diamonds, investment stones, majestic patent diamond jewellery, designer diamond jewellery, certified tanzanite jewellery, a platinum collection and the B.Y.L Collection. Its stock is replenished on a regular basis and its prices very competitive. B.Y.L Diamonds also recently launched its state-of-the-art website which allows members to view its certified diamonds, tanzanite and jewellery inventory swiftly and with ease. The website also allows agent mode to be disabled so members can show clients B.Y.L Diamonds’ products without seeing its logo. Visit www.byldiamonds.com to be a part of B.Y.L Diamonds’ innovative new way of selling or contact tel: (021) 419-2000 / Mishqa:

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

060 801 4954 / Tomer: 078 675 5928 or email: orders@byldiamonds.com.

IT’S ABOUT THE SPARKLE

Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa Oﬃce: +27 11 268 6980 • Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za • www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

ED'S NOTE|SAJN even more to me. It’s a constant reminder of the vows my husband and I made to one another and the promise of lifelong love and partnership. I always wear it. When Ferdi and I got engaged 12 years ago, I used to take it off every night, put it in its box and place it in my wardrobe. However, now I can’t remember the last time it left my finger. When our eldest child, Erik, was born seven years ago, Ferdi gave me a beautiful silver bracelet with an “E” engraved on it. When our daughter was born 15 months later, he gave me the identical bracelet, engraved with a “K” for Kaylin. This year, when Phillip was born, he gave me one engraved with a “P”. I wear these bracelets every day and only take them off before bathing at night. Just before my grandmother passed away five years ago, she gave me a pair of pearl earrings. I wear them most days and only on rare occasions replace them with a different pair. I have other pieces of jewellery which are also very special to me. Each one tells its own story – a tanzanite pendant from a friend who left to live overseas, a signet ring my parents gave me for my 10th birthday, and a pearl necklace towards which my family all contributed for my birthday four years ago. Each item is precious to me. Everyone I know has a piece of jewellery

AS I PUT ON MY BRACELETS this morning, I realised how sentimental and deeply personal some of my jewellery is, as it marks special events in my life. Most of my material possessions get replaced at some point – my cellphone, car and computer. But none of those carry the emotional connection of my jewellery. I loved my wedding ring from the moment I first saw it and still do. However, now it means

which is extremely meaningful to them. A close friend of mine lost her six-year-old son to cancer in August this year. She now has a silver chain with his name engraved on it which she wears continually. She also had a ring specially made for her 10-year-old daughter, also engraved with his name. Before my sister’s little daughter underwent a very big heart operation last year, her husband gave her a heart pendant. She, too, wears this every day. Jewellery is weighted with meaning. It doesn't matter what it is, there’s likely to be a sentimental or emotional reason you wear a particular piece. That’s what makes jewellery so unique. When I’m abroad attending an international jewellery fair or when Ferdi and the kids aren’t at home, there’s a sense that they’re with me whenever I look at my wedding ring and bracelets. Our emotional attachment to our jewellery is based on love, joy, friendship, good luck, a birthday or anniversary, achievements, a gift from a child or grandparent or memories of loved ones. Jewellery is worn not just on our necks, fingers, wrists and ears, but in our hearts and minds. It symbolises not only external events, but tells the “inside story” of who we are and what is dearest to us.

Adri Viviers

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SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa. Published monthly, this publication brings you scintillating news on current international and local affairs.

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NEWS|SAJN

ISRAEL AND UAE DIAMOND EXCHANGES SIGN COLLABORATION AGREEMENT The Ramat-Gan, Israel and Dubai, UAE diamond exchanges signed a collaboration agreement recently during a virtual conference. The agreement will see the Israel exchange set up a representative office in the Almas Tower in Dubai, with the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) also planning to open an office in the Israeli bourse complex in Ramat-Gan. “The strategic agreement signed between the Dubai Diamond Exchange and the Israeli Diamond Exchange is an important one that unlocks huge potential for both parties,” said

Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman and CEO of the DMCC and Chairman of the Dubai Diamond Exchange, in a statement. “This agreement will attract businesses to the emirate, as well as boost the regional and international trade of this precious stone. “The United Arab Emirates and Israel are home to two of the Middle East’s most dynamic and innovative economies. This agreement paves the way for further collaboration across a range of commodities in what is a very exciting time for development in the region.

We look forward to working alongside our partners in Israel,” he added. Yoram Dvash, President of the Israel Diamond Exchange, said the agreement between the two world-class centres would be of enormous value to both sides. “Through the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, we’ve come to know and value the leaders of the Dubai diamond industry. The agreement will enable us to build on these relationships to the benefit of the members of our respective bourses.”

THIRD EDITION OF BEST-SELLING LABORATORYGROWN DIAMONDS SET FOR RELEASE Gem and jewellery industry experts Dusan Simic and Branko Deljanin have completed the third edition of their bestselling book, Laboratory-Grown Diamonds: Information Guide to HPHT and CVD-Grown Diamonds. Simic and Deljanin, diamond researchers with over 50 years’ combined experience in the trade, are internationally recognised as authorities on diamonds. They specialise in the identification of natural, treated and laboratorygrown stones. Together, they have published more than 100 magazine articles and presented

at scores of conferences around the globe. The book is being published by Gemmological Research Industries Inc (Canada) in collaboration with four eminent contributing authors: scientist Dr Boris Feigelson from the Naval Research Laboratoryin the USA, lab researcher Sharrie Woodring from the GCAL lab in the USA, CVD engineer Malay Hirani from Soni CVD Diamonds in India and HPHT engineer Frank Ripka from Algordanza in Switzerland. The authors believe there will be tremendous interest in the latest edition of the book,

following the huge demand for the second edition, which was published in 2007 and sold over 3 000 copies worldwide in two languages. “This book is unique in our industry. To the best of our knowledge, nobody else has written on these subjects. In addition to revised chapters, there are eight new articles (approximately 100 extra pages) in the new edition, thus creating a 188-page practical guide that’s invaluable for diamond traders,” say Simic and Deljanin. Members of the trade can order the book at: www.brankogems.com/shop/books/laboratory-grown-diamonds-information-guide-tohpht-and-cvd-grown-diamonds

SAJN |NEWS

CIBJO SOON TO COMPLETE OPERATING STANDARDS FOR LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS The board of directors of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released a laboratorygrown diamond guidance document for review by officers and members of affiliated national associations and representatives of commercial members. This is the final stage in a more than two-year process to create a harmonised set of operating standards and principles for the laboratory-grown diamond sector. Intended to assist all professionals handling laboratory-grown diamonds, the primary purpose of the guidance document is to protect and enhance consumer confidence. It was compiled by a committee of representatives from both the laboratory-grown and the natural diamond sectors. A key principle of Laboratory-Grown Diamonds is that, to ensure confidence, consumers must receive complete and unambiguous information about what they are buying, so that they can make consciously informed purchasing decisions. This requires clear and accurate information that the diamonds were created industrially and not through geological processes, as is the case with natural diamonds. The laboratory-grown sector and natural diamond sectors operate according to different business models, with natural diamonds having a relationship between colour, clarity and weight, on the one side, and rarity on the other. With laboratory-grown diamonds, this relationship is not relevant – instead, colour, clarity and weight are subject to the control of the laboratory-grown diamond manufacturer. Rarity is a critical factor in setting the price of a natural diamond and in deciding its long-term value trajectory. Divided into various sections, the guidance document outlines clear principles for describing laboratory-grown diamonds, as well as due diligence measures that should be followed

by companies handling such merchandise and events at which they are displayed, like trade shows. It further recommends the manner in which loose laboratory-grown diamonds or jewellery set with laboratory-grown diamonds should be disclosed on sales invoices and consignment documents. The document also addresses the subject of laboratory-grown diamond detection technology. A key section of the document relates to the services provided by gem labs to the laboratory-grown diamond sector. It contends that the confidence of consumers will be served by their receiving an accurate and objective report of the characteristics of the laboratory-grown stone that they are buying. However, since these are unrelated to rarity, care should be taken that the report itself does not infer a similarity between a laboratory-grown diamond and a natural stone. The report is therefore referred to as a “Laboratory-Grown Diamond Product Specification”, rather than a grading report. Since a manufactured product is involved, the guidance document recommends that Laboratory-Grown Diamond Product Specification reports include other information which is not provided on standard natural diamond grading reports. This includes the name of the manufacturer, the production batch, the country of manufacture and the method of manufacture. The guidance document recommends that if the four Cs are used by a laboratory to describe the physical characteristics of laboratory-grown diamonds, the letters “LG” should be placed as a prefix before the two Cs of colour and clarity. Certain countries require that OIML/Legal Units of Measurement be used to describe the weight of laboratory-grown diamonds and here the guidance document recommends that the report note both the stone’s standard carat weight and its weight in grams.

CHRISTIE’S SETS US$10 MILLION PRICE TAG ON MUZO NECKLACE A Muzo emerald and diamond necklace is expected to sell for up to US$10,3 million when it goes under the hammer at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong on 29 November. The double-rivière piece, designed by Edmond Chin for the House of Boghossian, contains 28 perfectly cut and matched, near-flawless emeralds weighing a total of 117,60ct. The gems were hand-selected by Boghossian CEO

Albert Boghossian, the auction house says. Christie’s expects the necklace to prove extremely popular, as it sold the Grand Muzos (a pair of earrings containing emeralds from the same Colombian mine) for almost US$100 000 per carat last year. “The offering of this necklace marks a major moment in the auction world and will no doubt create a stir among global connoisseurs,” says Christie’s. – Rapaport

DIGITAL JCSA MEMBERSHIP CERTIFICATES NOW AVAILABLE The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is in the process of issuing all its members with personalised digital membership certificates. “This electronic certificate can be printed to proudly display in their stores or place of business,” says Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO. Jewellers who have been members for more than 20 years will be issued with a platinum certificate. “The certificate is an assurance that members conduct business with integrity and abide by a code of ethics and conduct,” explains Lloyd. “It also reassures the consumer that they can buy with confidence and form a long-lasting relationship with their preferred jeweller.” Members who have not received their digital certificates can contact the council at e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za or on tel: (011) 484-5528.

DIAMONDS DO GOOD GRANTS DISTRIBUTED TO TANZANIA AND BOTSWANA Supported by the international natural diamond industry, Diamonds Do Good is a global organisation whose mission is supporting programmes that develop and empower people in natural diamond communities and sharing stories of positive impact. The non-profit has announced that it will hand out US$150 000 in grants to help members of the industry who most need assistance with maintaining their programmes. The money will be distributed to the Flaviana Matata Foundation, which supports education, entrepreneurship, youth empowerment and higher education for girls in Tanzania. It will also allocate a portion to Sentebale, which works to empower youth afflicted with HIV/Aids in Botswana. In addition, the organisation will provide funds to Canada’s Mine Training Society in the Northwest Territories. The group gives scholarships for technical training in diamond industry jobs to the indigenous community.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

NEWS|SAJN

FIRST PROGRAMME TO EDUCATE AND CERTIFY CSR, SUSTAINABILITY AND SDG OFFICERS CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) and Intertek Italia SpA, the Italian subsidiary of the Intertek Group, a multi-national assurance, inspection, product-testing and certification company, have announced a joint initiative to educate, train and certify CSR, sustainability and sustainable development goals (SDG) compliance officers specifically for the gemstone and jewellery industries. It will be the first dedicated programme of its sort worldwide. The announcement was made on 12 September during the opening day of the VOICE VicenzaOro trade event in Vicenza, Italy, by CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, who was joined on the main stage by Alessandro Ferracino, Regional Director of Italy and France Intertek, Maria Francesca Bergamaschi, Intertek Italy’s South Europe Sustainability Manager and Global Manager for the company’s programme with the Responsible Jewellery Council and Raul Sapora, Intertek Italy’s gemmologist. Speaking to the gathering, which was simultaneously streamed worldwide, Ferracino explained that a three-track programme is being planned, beginning with the defining of professional qualification standards for several levels of

jewellery industry CSR/sustainability/SDG compliance officers, specifying what each required in terms of educational background, standards, proficiency and work experience. The different officers will include sustainability managers, CSR managers, sustainability and CSR auditors, SDG action managers and SDG users. The positions and their respective qualifications will first be approved by UNI, Italy’s national standardisation authority, which will then lead to internationally recognised accreditation. The second step will involve the creation by CIBJO’s educational arm, the WJCEF, of the International Council for Sustainable Business (ICSB), an academy providing educational programmes that provide prospective compliance officers with the necessary knowledge and skills. Potential candidates for the courses provided through ICSB will be employees of companies operating in the jewellery and gemstone industries, or individuals seeking employment as compliance officers in the sector. The third step, which will be carried out by Intertek, will be the certification of persons for the various levels of compliance officers, according to an internationally recognised accreditation process. Certification will ascertain that the CSR,

sustainability and SDG compliance officers have achieved the necessary competencies, knowledge and skills required for their assigned tasks. “There are already a range of CSR, sustainability and SDG standards being applied in our industry and not only is their number likely to increase, but also the demands that companies must comply with in order to gain access to both suppliers and customers,” says Cavalieri. “However, the process can be confusing. As a result, there’s a growing need for professional compliance officers who are also familiar with the specific requirements of our industry, such as the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, the World Diamond Council System of Warranties, the Responsible Jewellery Council Code of Practice, the Dodd-Frank Act, the European Conflict Minerals legislation and the OECD conflict minerals guidance, not to mention compliance systems required by private companies. “The goal of this programme is to create a class of internationally recognised jewellery industry CSR, sustainability and SDG professionals who’ll help companies become compliant,” says Cavalieri. “There’s clearly a gap in the industry’s skills set and, together, Intertek, CIBJO and WJCEF seek to fill it.”

Handmade Brass Jewellery With Lapis Lazuli www.annab.co.za

JEWELLERY

SAJN |GOLD

Gold

– a safe haven, or too hot to handle? The spike in the gold price has every person and their dog interested in investing in the yellow metal. Is this a good idea? History may provide some context, writes Michael Kruger. FINANCIAL MARKET MOVES IN 2020 can best be described in one word – unprecedented. Equity markets experienced one of the sharpest and speediest declines in the first quarter of 2020, only to recover most of these losses in the four months to the end of July. The market moves have been nothing short of breathtaking, with the swift action of governments and central banks to provide support in the form of fiscal

stimulus and lower interest rates no doubt playing a role in the recovery. One of the most significant winners in 2020 has been gold. The price of the precious metal has risen 30% in US dollars since the beginning of the year (to the end of July), in the process becoming one of the most talked-about trades of 2020. This has driven the performance of gold counters listed on the JSE – many of which are up by more than 100% since the

beginning of the year. Even long-term gold cynic Warren Buffett made news headlines recently when it was announced that his company, Berkshire Hathaway, added shares of Barrick Gold to its portfolio in the second quarter of the year. Gold has a long history as a safe haven investment. This is largely because the price of gold is independent of other asset classes, which means that the metal

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

GOLD|SAJN has generally performed well during periods of market stress or volatility. Gold has also traditionally been a refuge against US dollar weakness, largely due to the inverse relationship between the world’s reserve currency and commodity prices. Investments in gold generally take place in one of two forms: buying the commodity itself (gold bullion) or buying shares of companies that mine and sell gold (gold equity). In the South African environment, investments in physical gold usually take the form of investments in gold exchange-traded funds or ETFs. Due to the impact of leverage (both financial and operating), investments in gold stocks tend to be more volatile than the direct investment in the physical commodity, which depends only on the price of the metal. Investing in gold as protection against market declines Historically, gold has excelled during periods of significant market declines and periods of unusually high market volatility. The metal has posted significantly better returns during market draw-downs and, in some cases, has even notched positive total returns during periods of steep losses in equity markets. The behaviour of gold during the COVID-19 sell-off provided an interesting case study, in that although gold fared better than stocks, it still posted a small loss. This has been attributed

to many factors, including the fact that the sell-off was liquidity-driven (and therefore allencompassing) and the feeling that interest rate cuts will support the US dollar (a negative for commodity prices). Lockdown measures introduced across the globe also caused mine closures and production shutdowns, which affected gold producers negatively. Gold did, however, reverse course, moving significantly higher in the months following the market selloff, reaching a peak of just above $2 000 an ounce. Gold as an inflation hedge Despite often being regarded as a hedge against inflation, gold’s record of protection is rather mixed. The metal did provide significant protection during the high inflationary period of the 1970s, when higher oil prices and an expanding money supply pushed inflation to extreme levels in the USA. During more muted periods of inflation, including the early 1980s and between 1988 and 1991, gold delivered negative returns, lagging equity markets in the process. Given the unprecedented levels of fiscal stimulus delivered by major central banks and governments in response to the pandemic, concerns have been raised that this may lead to a significant uptick in inflation. While this may be true, the evidence suggests that gold’s role as an inflation hedge may be overdone and that there is no guarantee that the metal will provide protection if inflation becomes a problem.

adjusted returns were improved, but the results are not conclusive enough to indicate that adding gold allocations to a portfolio will always be beneficial. So, what can we conclude about gold from the evidence? The introduction of gold in a portfolio is not guaranteed to improve risk, returns or riskadjusted returns for every period. Rather, the track record of the precious metal is mixed and gold can go through long periods of underperformance. The strongest evidence for holding gold appears to be as a safe haven in periods of significant market volatility. In our opinion, it should be viewed as an insurance policy rather than a core holding. Investors should also be wary of the hype currently surrounding the price movements of gold – after all, as Buffett once famously said: “What the wise man does in the beginning, the fool does in the end.” – Credit: The Daily Maverick (DM168)

Does the introduction of gold improve risk-adjusted returns? Depending on the period in question, adding gold to a portfolio can improve risk-adjusted returns. What is important to highlight, however, is that the results are largely period-dependent. In some cases, total returns, risk and/or risk-

One of the most significant winners in 2020 has been gold. The price of the precious metal has risen 30% in US dollars since the beginning of the year (to the end of July), in the process becoming one of the most talked-about trades of 2020.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

SAJN|SWISS FAIR REVIEWS 2020 (Right): Miki Eleta – AHCI exclusive clockmaker – has created this clockwork complication. The clock features a retrograde minute display on the right with a blue background and the hour is shown on the left on a rotating, skeletonised dial. The small sun and moon symbols indicate the day and night hours. The days of the week with their planetary symbols – sun, moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn – are indicated on the smallest skeletonised disc on the right above the centre. The time of day can also be read here as the days of the week shift in quarter-steps. The clock features a myriad of desirable complications. Height: 70 cm. Width: 44 cm. Depth: 30 cm. Weight: 20 kg. Power reserve: Eight days.

2020 brings uphea The Swiss timepiece exhibitions have all now morphed out of recognition. Brand releases, industry PR events and new promo announcements are coming thick and fast, writes reviewer for the Horological Journal in the UK, Martin Foster. (Above, from top): This celebrates the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive Chronograph GMT’s 60th anniversary. With 30 m and 12-hour registers on the right-hand side, the second time zone is displayed from the centre and there is a power reserve indicator and date window. The SBGC238 features the Spring Drive cal 9R96 and combines the beauty of a mechanical movement, the practicality of automatic winding, the precision of a quartz regulator, a column-wheel chronograph, a 72-hour power reserve, accuracy at ±0,5 sec/day and 200 m water-resistance. Expect to pay about £42 000 (approximately R860 800). The Lange Minute Repeater cal L043.5 has exquisitely finished movement.

THE ONLY MULTI-BRAND SWISS FAIR IN COVID-wrecked 2020 was the pragmatically named Geneva Watch Days, which was held from 26-29 August using luxury Geneva hotels. Credit goes to the initiative of several major Swiss luxury watch brands which came together to create the independent Geneva Watch Days. These included Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux,

Moser, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk. Finally, on opening day there were 17 brands exhibiting by appointment for agents, press and clients in boutiques and hotels across downtown Geneva. Now there is debate as to whether this event was held contrary to prevailing COVID-19 health advice. At the fringes of this is further debate about whether we still need watch fairs,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

SWISS FAIR REVIEWS 2020|SAJN or even physical retailing. Time alone will provide the definitive answer. But it would be a brave decision indeed to eschew the personal contact provided by trade fairs, together with the opportunities to meet like-minded people, enjoy industry collaboration, make pricing comparisons and conduct competitive product research. And we can only wonder how many cashedup buyers would be at all happy about sending off large sums for a watch they had not physically handled or seen in the flesh. Until 2020, we had trade fairs promotionally labelled, with names such as “Baselworld” and “Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie”, but we now have more fluid and less focused events such as “Watches & Wonders”, together with the MCH Group’s proposed “HOURUNIVERSE”.

According to the MCH Group, the HOURUNIVERSE platform will be run throughout the year and – in line with the decades-long pattern of the industry – will present an annual live show. The current plan is that this new show will have presentation dates coordinated with the “Watches and Wonders” events in April 2021. The HOURUNIVERSE website carries the promotional subheading, “It’s We Time”. Does anybody Beta-test this global material? With such a promo tag, we might regard this as the first flicker of pub humour to emerge in this very formal luxury industry. It certainly hugely amused me! Many will regret that the new HOURUNIVERSE show has been put back into Basel, extinguishing hopes of escaping the finely-honed board game of visitor-gouging across Basel city. But as the MCH Group owns the

Credit goes to the initiative of several major Swiss luxury watch brands which came together to create the independent Geneva Watch Days. These included Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, Moser, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk.

(Below, from left): This A Lange & Söhne (Glashütte) Minute Repeater cal L043.5 is in white gold with a dial in deep blue. A historical first in a mechanical watch, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater combines a jumping digital display with a decimal minute repeater. As a sequel to its launch in 2015, it now also comes in a 30-watch limited edition with a 44,2 mm white gold case and a deep blue solid silver dial and Bvlgari exhibited a record-setting Octo Finissimo watch at the Geneva Watch Days exhibition in August. The new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic is the thinnest watch ever made, combining automatic winding with mono-pusher chronograph, tourbillon and ultra-thin skeletonised movement. Just 50 pieces will be made of this sleek piece, each retailing for about £120 000 (approximately R2 584 800).

Basel exhibition complex, it provides flexibility for synchronisation with the big shift of industry events to Geneva. It may also provide some hope for more reasonable costs for exhibitors. The Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair (HKW&CF) is bigger than any of the annual European watch and clock fairs and is promoted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. As we know, Hong Kong is beset by political instabilities, in addition to its COVID-19 worries, so its annual September (2020) fair was cancelled. The HKW&CF has announced that it will migrate the fair online, consolidating it into the online HKTDC Autumn Sourcing Week. The online exhibition will be held from 1627 November 2020, enabling the industry to continue exploring business opportunities. Meanwhile, the 37th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition, which aims to discover new design talents for the industry, proceeded as planned and the results were announced in October. So, as COVID-19 continues to affect international trade fairs, we eagerly await updates and in the meantime enjoy the opportunity to present new timepieces from both the major and smaller brands.

avals to the fair formats

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

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Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr PetrĂŠ Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 13

ISSUE 13 AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES III. THE PROPERTIES OF GEMSTONES CLARITY - CUT - CARAT WEIGHT 2. THE CLARITY OF GEMSTONES

CRACKS CALLED FEATHERS

During a mineral’s growth, it often “grows over” and incorporates other minerals or minute gas “vacuoles”, etc. It can also develop cracks and cleavages as it cools down. These internal imperfections are called inclusions. External imperfections such as irregularities and scratches that are confined to the surface of the gem are known as blemishes.

Cracks or breaks that are present, and which may get larger when the stone receives a blow in future, will negatively affect its value. There are three basic types of cracks that can occur in a gem. These are normally called feathers.

The relative absence or abundance of these imperfections defines the clarity of the gem. Gems with fewer or smaller imperfections (higher clarity) are obviously more rare and expensive than those with many and easily visible imperfections.

INCLUDED CRYSTALS AND FLUID INCLUSIONS As the size, number and visibility of inclusions increase, the transparency and sparkle of the gem decrease and, thus, also its value. If the inclusion can easily be seen against the body colour of the gem (such as a dark mineral in a colourless Typical inclusions in garnet. diamond), its value will be diminished. If a gem has large gas or fluid inclusions that were trapped during its growth, the flame of a goldsmith’s torch will cause the gas or fluid to expand, which may result in a cracked gem. On the other hand, inclusions are of great value in distinguishing between natural and synthetic gems and can sometimes add to its value. The golden horsetail inclusions in demantoid garnet increase its value, while the fine needle-like inclusions in sapphire may cause sought-after asterism or the sleepy, silky appearance of some Burmese sapphires. One must appreciate the fact that certain gemstones rarely occur without inclusions. Emerald and pink or red tourmaline are examples where the absence of visible inclusions should raise a warning flag.

i) Cleavages In some gems, atoms are positioned in planes that are widely spaced. Bonding between such planes is relatively weak and the gem may split along Cleavage in topaz which resulted these planes when subject to in serious damage to the stone. a blow. Such a split is the most dangerous type of break as it can easily increase in size if the gem is handled without care. Topaz, tanzanite, kunzite and moonstone, as well as diamond, cleave easily. Cleavage planes have a parallel and step-like appearance. ii) Parting This occurs when a mineral breaks along twin planes. These are weakened planes in the structure of a mineral that occur when the regular pattern of atoms has been shifted. Although parting is scarce, it is quite obvious in black sapphires. iii) Fractures These breaks do not occur along specific atomic planes but cut across the crystal structure to form irregular, often scalloped-shaped and curved surfaces. The conchoidal (shelllike) surface that results when glass breaks is a good example.

Conchoidal fracture in diamond.

Disc-like fracture surrounding a small inclusion (lower right) in sapphire.

AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES

HOW TO DESCRIBE THE CLARITY OF COLOURED GEMS The terminology used to describe the clarity of diamonds differs significantly from the terms used to describe the clarity of coloured gemstones as given below. When describing to a client the clarity of a coloured gemstone, do not use terms like “flaws”, “imperfections”, “cracks” or “fractures” - rather talk about natural inclusions or identifying marks. Use the term “feather” for a small crack. If your clients seem concerned about the inclusions, inform them that most gemstones will have inclusions which are visible under the microscope. Explain that the presence of these inclusions helps to identify the gem as of natural origin and that, in some cases, these inclusions are responsible for unique features such as asterism in corundum, the cat’s-eye effect in tourmaline, etc. Inform them that inclusions do not necessarily detract from a gemstone’s beauty. You must, however, inform your client when the inclusions in a gem may affect its durability. A gemstone can be called “eye clean” if its inclusions can be seen only with a loupe or microscope. Gemstones that are typically eye clean are aquamarine, topaz, tanzanite, citrine, kunzite and heliodor. On the other hand, gems such as emerald and red tourmaline are not expected to be “eye clean”. As the inclusions in the gem become more plentiful and visible, its clarity can be described as: • slightly included (S) • moderately included (M) • heavily included (H) • extremely included (E).

Please note: A slightly included grade in an aquamarine (which is expected to be eye clean) affects its value much more than a slightly included grade will affect a ruby’s price.

3. THE CUT OF GEMSTONES

Round brilliant

Emerald

Marquise or navette

Heart-shaped

Baguette

Barion

Oval

Pear-shaped

Tapered baguette

Radiant

Trilliant

Square

Princess

Most popular shapes of modern cut diamonds

ii) The style This is the arrangement of the facets and is normally described as “brilliant”, “step”, “checkerboard”, etc. iii) The proportions Each gem specie has a unique set of proportions (determined by its specific RI) to which it should be cut for maximum sparkle. When a gem’s proportions are good, light that enters the stone will be reflected at best. A poorly-cut stone leaks light from its bottom and will have less of a sparkle. The sketches below give a simplified explanation for why a well-cut gemstone sparkles more than one with less ideal proportions.

The cut, also called the “make” of a gemstone, is a general term describing its shape, style, proportions and finish and is a characteristic that can dramatically influence the stone’s value. i) The shape This is the face-up outline of the stone, such as oval, cushion, round, etc.

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Ideal cut Light is refracted back to the eye

Too deep cut Light “leaks out”

Too shallow cut Light “leaks out”

Importance of an “ideal cut” for maximum brilliance.

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ISSUE 13

Diamonds

OTHER GEM SHAPES

The ideal proportions for a diamond are better defined than those of coloured gemstones. A brilliant cut diamond’s total depth should measure very close to 60% and its crown about 15% of its girdle diameter. See sketch below.

Cabochon - a smoothly rounded polished gem with a domed top and a flat or curved base. Gems of lesser quality are often polished as cabochons.

Diameter = 100 % Crown height 15%

Cabochon profiles.

Intaglio - a design engraved into a gemstone, such as a coatof-arms in chalcedony.

Total depth 60%

Ideal proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond

Coloured gems Coloured gems are cut to different standards from diamonds because they owe their beauty to different factors. For instance, a diamond’s beauty depends on its clarity, brilliance and fire - thus the extreme care a cutter should take on the proportions of diamond. On the other hand, coloured gems are cut to maximise their colour and weight. Aspects such as colour zoning, pleochroism and the visibility of inclusions often cause the cutter to deviate from ideal proportions when cutting coloured gemstones. Sometimes the cutter will “spread” (flatten) a very dark stone so that it becomes lighter or larger in appearance.

Pendant with sardonyx intaglio

Profiles of an intaglio (left) and cameo (right).

Cameo - a carving style where the motif (eg, a woman’s face) projects slightly above a flat or curved surface. Often carved from shell or agate.

Ideally, when seen from the side, about 1/3 or 1/4 of a coloured gem should be above its girdle, as indicated in the sketch below. Crown 25-30%

Brooch with shell cameo

Carvings - abstract or pictorial three-dimensional carvings are usually made in jade, serpentine, chalcedony, quartz, etc. Amethyst carving of prancing horses

Pavilion 70-75%

Ideal proportions for a coloured gemstone

Fantasy cuts - are innovative, unique and sometimes made for competitions. Fantasy cut amethyst (left). Fancy cuts - are unusual, but not unique (one-off) cutting styles: eg, the “Daliah” cut (below left) and the “Fire Rose” (below).

iv) The ﬁnish The finish is a term describing the quality of the polish and the symmetry of the gem's outline.The symmetry of a cut diamond is important in its valuation, while in coloured gems - which often are not as symmetrical as expected - it plays a lesser role.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES

4. CARAT WEIGHT OF GEMSTONES The term “carat” stems from the ancient practice of Arab gem dealers who used the beans of the carob tree (also known as Jacob’s tree) as counterbalance in weighing precious gems. Carob beans were used because all beans normally have the same weight, ie, close to 200 milligrams (1 carat). The standard unit weight for precious gems is the metric carat (ct). One carat equals 0,20 gram (one-fifth of a gram). A carat is divided into 100 points (pts). A point is equal to 1/100th of a carat and is indicated as 0,01ct. Although most gem scales can weigh to one-thousandth of a carat (,001ct), the weight is normally rounded to the nearest hundredth (0,01ct) of a carat, or to the nearest point. The gem trade often talks about “one-quarters” or “halfcaraters” when describing the weight of gems in a parcel. These terms should not be used to the public. When an item contains a number of small gems, their total weight should be accurately described to the client.

WEIGHT AND VALUE The trade price gems in US dollars per carat. To find the cost of a single stone - or the cost of a parcel - multiply the US$/ct price by the total weight of the gem(s). For

Carob pods and seeds

instance, if blue sapphire is quoted at US$750/ct and the stone weighs 1,25ct - then the gem will cost you US$750 x 1,25 = US$937,50.

WEIGHT VERSUS SIZE Two coloured gems of equal weight will not have equal measurements. For example, an amethyst is much larger than a ruby of the same weight. This is because the atoms that make up a ruby are much heavier and closely packed than those that make up the amethyst. If you need to change one gem for another in a ring, you must remember that although they may weigh the same, their dimensions will be different.

IV. GEM TREATMENTS, SYNTHETICS, IMITATIONS AND ETHICS 1. ETHICS - THE BACKBONE OF THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

and the protection of the consumer’s rights have put the selling process under the spotlight.

Mankind has tried to improve the beauty of gems since they ﬁrst became valuable. Gems found in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs were found to have been heat-treated. In fact, very few rubies, sapphires and tanzanites on the market today have not been heat-treated to improve their colour.

Today, jewellers are much more aware of the nature of the goods they are selling. There are still those who, at their own peril, will not offer a full disclosure on treatments, etc, for fear of losing a sale. Proper disclosure is a true test of your selling ability, your understanding of industry guidelines and the strength of your personal ethics.

Honesty and trust have long been the pillars on which the diamond and jewellery industries were built. From the miner to the retail client, a gemstone purchase depends very much on the trust which the buyer has in his supplier. During the past few decades, techniques were developed whereby the appearance of natural gems can be improved and synthetic gems can be produced at a fraction of the cost of the natural item. The development of consumerism

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If a client is informed that man’s effort is needed to unlock the hidden beauty of a gem and that the craftsmanship of the gem cutter carries a price, he should also be prepared to accept that enhancement techniques are there to improve the beauty of a gem - giving him better value for his money. As long as the customer is: a) informed whether his gem was created by nature or in the laboratory; b) made aware of the enhancement (treatment) which the stone

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ISSUE 13

enjoyed; and c) the difference in value is explained, then there should be little resistance to the purchase of a treated stone. Unfortunately, in South Africa, we still do not have an ethics watchdog, as exists in most other countries. Guidelines for disclosure have been recommended by the US Federal Trade Commission and CIBJO (the World Federation of Jewellery Associations). The gist of these recommendations is that if you know a gemstone is treated or made by man, you must disclose the treatment and its origin, as well as any related issues concerning the gemstone’s durability and the way it should be handled.

5. Fracture-ﬁlling A process whereby thin fissures or cracks are filled with a colourless resin, glass, plastic or oil (baby oil, cedar oil, etc) to make fractures or cavities less visible and improve the clarity of the gem. Emerald and ruby are the most commonly fracturefilled gems.

6. Heat treatment

2. GEM TREATMENTS It is essential for anyone handling or selling gems to know the different types of treatment, as well as the various production processes of synthetic gems. Gem treatment is any human-controlled process that improves the appearance, durability or value of a gemstone. This broad definition does not include the cutting and polishing of gems. Most of these treatments result in a non-permanent improvement or the treated gem requires special care - facts that should be explained to the client. 1. Bleaching Using chemicals to lighten or remove colour is a very old process. Light-coloured pearls and ivory are often bleached with hydrogen peroxide. Diluted acid or chlorine bleach can lighten tiger’s eye or jadeite. Even diamonds are improved when acid is put into a thin laser-drilled tube that has been drilled into a dark inclusion.

Fracture in emerald filled with coloured resin.

In sapphire a yellow inclusion expanded during heating and caused a fracture to develop.

This is one of the oldest and most common gem treatments. Heat can darken, lighten or completely change a gem’s colour. Heat can also eliminate, create or alter the appearance of inclusions in a gem. The latter is very helpful in gem identification.

7. Irradiation Bombardment with x-rays or sub-atomic particles can change the colour of a gem. Such irradiation can create dislocations in the atomic structure that act as colour centres. The vivid blue of topaz is normally due to such a treatment. 8. Lattice diffusion When a gem is “cooked” under high temperature in a “soup” containing elements such as titanium, chromium, beryllium, etc, these elements diffuse into its crystal structure to give the gem a more marketable colour. Sapphire and ruby have recently been treated in this way.

2. Dyeing Porous minerals readily absorb a dye which may improve its colour. Lapis lazuli, jadeite, cultured pearls, agate and turquoise are often treated like this.

Dark colour due to trace elements diffused into crystal lattice

3. Cavity-ﬁlling Surface-reaching cavities are often filled with glass or plastic, especially with rubies and sapphires. 4. Colour impregnation Melted wax and other resins (sometimes coloured) are sucked under vacuum into pores and cracks to stabilise or colour a gem.

Section through gemstone indicating the effect of lattice diffusion

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AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES

9. Sugar and smoke

13. High pressure/high temperature (HP/HT)

When opal is heated in concentrated fruit juice, sugar is absorbed by the porous structure. After cooling and drying, the opal is treated with sulphuric acid which converts the sugar to carbon, thus darkening its colour. A similar effect can be obtained by “smoking” a white opal.

HP/HT techniques are in use to remove or darken the colour of diamonds.

3. SYNTHETIC GEMS A synthetic gem has the same chemical composition, crystal structure, optical and physical proper ties as its natural counterpar t.

Sugar-treated “black opal”.

Jewellers are sometimes concerned that the availability of synthetics will drive down the price of natural gems. However, synthetics have been around for many decades and the public is still prepared to pay a higher price for the natural gem. It is up to the jeweller to inform and educate his client about the choices available and that the natural gem will always attract the higher price.

10. Surface coatings The ancients were the first to discover that a gem’s colour can be improved by attaching a silver or gold foil “backing” to the gem. 11. Painting Painting the surface of a gem is another method normally used with fraudulent intent.

4. IMITATION GEMS Imitation gems only look like the real thing and consist of material that has no relationship to either natural or synthetic gems, such as green glass which has been cut and polished to look like an emerald. The term “simulant” is also used to describe imitations. “Fashion jewellery” is a broad term describing jewellery that contains imitation gems.

12. Reconstitution Some gems, such as low-grade turquoise or lapis lazuli, are crushed, the powder combined with dye and a bonding agent and the paste then moulded into the shape of a polished gem. Look for dye concentrations under magnification.

SELLING TREATED AND SYNTHETIC GEMS When you explain the 4Cs of any gem to a client, the discussion should include information about treatments and synthetics. Consider these issues as a matter of ethics and place yourself in the position of the client. If a car salesman did not inform you about an accident the car has had - would you be happy? Your client will appreciate your honesty and your subject knowledge and will be able to make an informed choice - and remain a loyal client. However, if he discovers later that the colour of the gem he has bought fades in sunlight, or that the gem is not natural, he will be extremely disappointed. This will damage your reputation and you may lose him and his friends as clients. But if you disclose the nature of the gem in full - and he is still prepared to buy it - you will have a client for life.

V. DURABILITY, CARE AND CLEANING OF GEMS Although most coloured gems are quite durable, some require special care. Explaining how to care for their jewellery will make your clients aware of the uniqueness of their gems and add to your professionalism. More importantly, though, knowledge about the durability of gems in the workplace is essential for the

jeweller as it will prevent serious losses, unhappy clients and even lawsuits. For instance, a simple jewellery repair can turn into a nightmare when the jeweller’s torch cracks a ruby or causes the colour of an irradiated diamond to change. Even ultrasonic cleaning can cause serious damage to some gems.

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ISSUE 13

Image courtesy Karolina Grabowska (Pexels)

1. DURABILITY

Durability consists of three qualities: hardness, toughness and stability.

A. HARDNESS This property is the gem’s resistance to scratching. As diamond can scratch all natural gems, it is considered the hardest. In 1822, Professor Friedrich Mohs gave diamond a hardness of 10 on a scale that he developed to indicate the relative hardness of minerals. Topaz (hardness 8) can scratch any mineral ranked the same or lower. The Mohs scale is not linear as diamond is, in fact, 140 times harder than corundum and about 124 000 times harder than talc. The jeweller must understand the Mohs scale, but should not quote numbers to the client. Rather explain to him that a ruby ring and peridot earrings do not belong in the same box, as the latter is bound to be scratched by the ruby.

THE MOHS SCALE OF MINERAL HARDNESS Diamond Corundum (ruby and sapphire) Topaz Quartz (amethyst, citrine) Orthoclase (feldspar) Apatite Fluorite Calcite Gypsum Talc (soapstone)

10 9 8 7 Steel file H = 6,5 6 Window glass H = 6 5 Knife blade H = 5 4 3 Copper coin H = 3,5 2 Fingernail H = 2 1

Diamond 3 4 5 6 7 8 MOHS SCRATCH HARDNESS

Corundum

Quartz

Topaz

Orthoclase

Apatite

Fluorite

Gypsum

Calcite

Talc

KNOOP INDENTATION HARDNESS 2 000 4 000 6 000 8 000

(You can use the jingle – “tall girls can flit and other queer things can do” - to remember the order in which minerals are arranged in the Mohs scale)

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In the workplace, there are many things with a hardness of 7 that will scratch most gems you may work with.

B. TOUGHNESS Exceptional hardness does not mean exceptional toughness. Explain this to your customer by using a leather shoe as an example. A leather shoe is soft, as it can be scratched easily, but is very tough as it can stand up to a lot of wear. On the other hand, a porcelain plate is very hard, but chips or shatters easily. Although there is no scale for toughness, the groupings below indicate the relative toughness of gemstones. Some gems appear under more than one rating as they can show different degrees of toughness due to the presence of inclusions, cleavages and fractures.

RELATIVE TOUGHNESS OF GEMSTONES Exceptional: jadeite, nephrite Excellent:

alexandrite, cat’s eye, chrysoberyl, ruby, sapphire

Good:

agate, amethyst, aquamarine, bloodstone, carnelian, chalcedony, chrysoberyl, citrine, coral, emerald, onyx, pearl, peridot, garnets, other quartz varieties, spinel, tsavorite, turquoise, zircon

Fair:

certain corals, hematite, lapis lazuli, opal, pearl, rhodolite, shell, tanzanite, tortoise shell, zircon, tourmaline, turquoise, tsavorite

Poor:

amber, malachite, opal, pearl

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DIAMONDS|SAJN

Standards and principles for laboratory-grown diamond sector The Board of Directors of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released a laboratory-grown diamond guidance document for review by officers and members of affiliated national associations and representatives of commercial members. This is the final stage in a more than two-year process to create a harmonised set of operating standards and principles for the laboratory-grown diamond sector. INTENDED TO ASSIST ALL PROFESSIONALS handling laboratory-grown diamonds, the primary purpose of the laboratory-lrown diamond guidance document is to protect and enhance consumer confidence. It was compiled by a committee of representatives from both the laboratory-grown diamond sector and the natural diamond sector. A key principle of the laboratory-grown diamond guidance is that, to ensure confidence, consumers must receive complete and unambiguous information about what they are buying, so that they can make consciously informed purchasing decisions. This requires clear and accurate information that the diamonds were created industrially, and not through geological processes, as is the case with natural diamonds. The laboratory-grown diamond sector and natural diamond sector operate according to different business models, with the relationship between colour, clarity and weight, on the one side, and rarity on the other, which exists with natural diamonds, not relevant with laboratorygrown diamonds, where colour, clarity and weight are subject to the control of the laboratory-grown diamond manufacturer. Rarity is a critical factor in setting the price of a natural diamond and in deciding its long-term value trajectory. Divided into various sections, the guidance document outlines clear principles for describing laboratory-grown diamonds, as

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

well as due diligence measures that should be followed by companies handling such merchandise and events at which they are displayed, like trade shows. It furthermore recommends the manner in which loose laboratory-grown diamonds or jewellery set with laboratory-grown diamonds should be disclosed on sales invoices and consignment documents. The document also addresses the subject of laboratorygrown diamond detection technology. A key section of the document relates to the services provided by gem labs to the laboratory-grown diamond sector. It contends that the confidence of consumers will be served by their receiving an accurate and objective report of the characteristics of the laboratory-grown stone that they are buying. However, since these are unrelated to rarity, care should be taken that the report itself does not infer a similarity between a laboratory-grown diamond and a natural one. The report, therefore, is referred to as a “Laboratory-Grown Diamond Product Specification,”and not a grading report. Since a manufactured product is involved, the guidance document recommends that Laboratory-Grown Diamond Product Specification reports include other information that is not provided on standard natural diamond grading reports. This includes the name of the manufacturer, the production batch, the country of manufacture, the method of

manufacture (HPHT or CVD), and information about treatments and processes to which the stone was subject after its original manufacture. The guidance document recommends that, if the four Cs are used by a laboratory to describe the physical characteristics of laboratory-grown diamonds, the letters “LG” should be placed as a prefix before the two Cs of colour and clarity. Certain countries require that OIML/Legal Units of Measurement be used to describe the weight of laboratory-grown diamonds, and here the guidance document recommends that the report notes both the stone’s standard carat weight and its weight in grams.

SAJN |RISK ASSESSMENT

THE “THREE PS” MODEL OF SECURITY CAN be seen as a three-legged table, in that no matter how strong the other two legs are, a weakness in one of the legs will topple the entire table. Practically speaking, you can have the strongest and highest walls with the latest in cameras and electric fencing around your business, but if your access control procedures are weak and anybody is able to walk through the gates unchallenged, then the walls are meaningless. What I have found is that the average property/business-owner does not have the time or expertise to effectively manage the full A-Z of the security at their sites and properties. This results in poor security maintenance, unnecessary expenditure, frivolous security installations, poor service delivery from providers and a less than secure working/ living environment. People like to think that

Security, safety and robbery preparedness It is critical that people understand that security is made up of three equally important elements – physical, personnel and procedures. These are referred to as the “Three Ps of Security”, Shannon Brook, independent security advisor and trainer, tells SAJN. their properties and businesses are secure, but upon closer inspection, this is frequently not the case. It is often only after an incident has occurred that people relook at their security measures and systems to try to figure out what went wrong. A common tactic used by security companies and installers is to offer “free

security assessments” to unsuspecting clients as a way of punting their product or service, with little regard to the actual security needs of a site. As a security risk assessor, I often advise clients on where or whether money is being wasted, how to reduce monthly security expenditure, the most cost-effective security solutions available, how to implement zero-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

RISK ASSESSMENT |SAJN cost security measures and how to optimise measures which are already in place. The following are questions you should be asking yourself: 1. Am I “doing security” or “playing security”? 2. How robust are my access control policies? 3. Can I rely on my guards/colleagues/staff to determine who can and cannot enter my business/site/shop? 4. Do my staff and colleagues know how to detect suspicious behaviour? 5. Am I sharing critical and sensitive security information without realising it? 6. Are people gathering information about my business/site/shop? 7. Do guards/colleagues/staff know how to react in an emergency? 8. How good are my daily security procedures? Do I even have set security procedures in place? 9. Am I too predictable? 10. Is my guarding company providing an effective security service, or am I merely window-dressing? 11. Do I really need armed guards? 12. When last did I test my alarm and panic buttons? Do I even have a working alarm and panic buttons? 13. Where is my physical security weak? Do I have enough lighting? Where do I need cameras? 14. W here am I overspending on my security budget? Am I using that budget effectively/optimally? 15. Where/How can I reduce my security expenditure? 16. How can I implement zero-cost security measures? 17. Do I have emergency equipment in place? 18. When last did I check my fire extinguishers and first aid kits? Do I even have fire extinguishers and first aid kits? It is important that your security provider offers the following services:

1. A site-specific security and risk assessment/ audit and report covering the various elements of the site’s physical security, guarding challenges, standard operating procedures (SOPs), training requirements, cameras, etc. This assessment is vital to understanding the actual security require ments and developing a holistic solution. This is high-level and not in-depth. 2. Developing site-specific guard access control and emergency SOPs. 3. Regular guard training (if you make use of guards), covering any combination of the following, pending guard and company interviews: o Implementing site security SOPs. o Breaking the threat cycle. o Identifying suspicious activity. o Reporting suspicious activity. o Access control. o Questioning suspects, visitors and vehicle occupants. o Recording traceable information. o Visitor and contractor verification. o Identifying and dealing with suspicious packages. o Equipment usage. o Security scenarios and simulations. o Basic self-defence 4. Ongoing analysis of a site’s physical, personnel and procedural security. 5. The installation of relevant security technol ogy solutions as cost-effectively as possible. 6. Inspecting all elements of the physical security and overseeing the installation, maintenance and repair of faulty elements using trusted specialists in the various fields. 7. Facilitating technical surveillance counter-measures. 8. Facilitating criminal/staff background checks.

9. Working with occupational health and safety consultants to ensure compliance with occupational health, safety and security, as well as COVID-19 regulations. 10. The management of security-related service providers to ensure effective service delivery within budget. 11. Managing and facilitating local relationships with the police. 12. Optimisation of security budgets and applying zero-cost security solutions, where possible. 13. Front-office and general staff security awareness and emergency training, including relevant documentation and forms. Unfortunately, the jewellery industry presents appealing targets where cash or valuable merchandise is easily available, particularly in the retail sector. I strongly advise you to consult your security provider, especially now, as we head into the “silly season”.

It is often only after an incident has occurred that people relook at their security measures and systems to try to figure out what went wrong. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

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THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST|SAJN

Will we ever go back to the way things were? Hopefully, not Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. THIS ARTICLE’S TITLE WAS a statement made by a delegate recently at a strategic planning workshop. After saying her business could never go back to the way things were pre-COVID-19 (PC), she repeated the statement, but with a big emphasis on the fact that we should never go back – implying that even if the business world does get back to some semblance of PC normality, we should do everything we can not to regress to the old, habitual ways of comfort-zone thinking and doing. What she was getting at was that if there have been any positives, any new insights or any exciting possibilities that have come out of the past few months of pandemic lockdown, we should make those our “new normal”, explore them and expand on them. I have heard a few business commentators say that the proverbial pendulum will, eventually, swing back to normal – whatever “normal” may be. Regardless of what transpires in the future, the one big question to ask is: what has this pandemic forced your business to learn/realise/adapt to/implement/

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

change and pursue? Of these, has one absolute differentiator been birthed in the past few months which could help you “niche your niche” and carry you into a new future with a competitive advantage like no other? I have mentioned the importance of focus before in this monthly column and recently I heard it voiced again during a marketing webinar, but with a different twist. They said: “If you take an ad hoc approach (to anything), then you get ad hoc results; if you take a focused approach, then you get focused results.” The webinar discussion went on to the concept of taking a laser approach to understanding your consumers’ “pain/pleasure” points and helping them with a unique solution offering. So, in a similar vein, I ask you: has pandemic pressure forced you to take a laser approach to what really differentiates your business offering? And is it possible that without the devastation of lockdown, your business would never have gotten to this new laser-focused approach (or, at least, not as quickly as it has)? These concepts have been around for a long time. The difference now, obviously, is that we have been forced to apply them. Let us not wait for other crises to arise before we implement what we know we should be doing. One simple example of this can be found in an article written by a colleague of mine five years ago titled The Future of Work and the Workspace, where he stated: “The target audience for this disruptive model is the worker who is tech-savvy, mobile and sees work as an ‘experience’, rather than merely a place to go to every day. According to Wikia’s Limitless Generation survey of about 1 203

Gen Z-ers, this generation spends almost every waking hour online, with only 44% reporting that they even ‘unplug’ during religious services. The bottom line is that for this generation, staying digitally connected is like breathing.” (Buhrs, 2015) If you had read this article in 2015 and knew the trends regarding the future of work, it would have meant nothing to you. However, if you had acted on its information – even in a small way – you would have had a big advantage and the power to better navigate what 2020 was bringing. What this pandemic has done is force us to adapt to the future of work, already described in 2015 and before. And, indeed, we must never go back. Let us keep learning and implementing, not waiting for forced change. We may not be able to predict and prepare for every eventuality, but for those that we can foresee, let us act. Who knows the competitive advantages and savings it could bring us?

If you take an ad hoc approach (to anything), then you get ad hoc results; if you take a focused approach, then you get focused results. 31

SAJN |JEWELLERY DESIGN

Meet the face behind Tasha Swart Creations Tell us about your background. I was born in Hoedspruit, a small town in the heart of the bushveld. I studied pharmacy, qualified in 2007 and, in 2010, moved to Cape Town to work in the pharmaceutical industry. It was there that I started exploring my deepseated creativity – something that had always stimulated me, but not been refined. After realising my passion for jewellery design, I enrolled to study jewellery design and manufacture at the Ruth Prowse School of Art in 2017. What makes your designs unique? I get very nostalgic when I walk around and design from nature, choosing the flowers I want to cast or draw and then create into a wearable piece of jewellery. My hope is to make the wearer feel intimately connected to nature and realise that one can be both fragile and steadfast, no matter what life hands one. I feel the same nostalgia and appreciation when I look at famous paintings. As someone who loves drawing and painting, I cannot help wondering how the artist felt, why they chose the mediums they used and what times they lived in when they created what they did. I recreate nature and the artist’s work into my own style and memory.

A qualified pharmacist, Natasha van Heyningen dabbled in various creative courses which led her to realise that her ultimate fulfilment was in jewellery.

Can you talk us through the process of design and making? While camping and on hikes, I find inspiration from the colours and novel shapes of fynbos, especially how delicate, yet tough these plants really are. I experiment by casting them and creating small pieces of art directly from nature. I love to sit with them before I cast them. Afterwards, I play around to see what combination works best and whether I should create a ring, pendant, brooch or hairpin. It is almost like arranging a bouquet of flowers, but one that will last a lifetime. Where do you find inspiration? My jewellery has always been inspired by nature. My pieces are whimsical and reminiscent of my childhood spent outdoors in a garden fantasy world, co-created with my grandma, Ouma Joey. My art range is inspired by the great artists. I love to sit and do abstract line drawings of famous pieces and then pierce them out. With Vermeer’s The Girl With a Pearl Earring, Frida Kahlo’s works and Tretchikoff-inspired pieces, I added colourful, semi-precious beads and freshwater pearls that complement the colours used in the paintings

How do you source your materials? I was very fortunate in that, while studying at the Ruth Prowse School of Art, we had exposure to a lot of suppliers of metals, findings, stones, etc. Now, living in Hoedspruit, it makes life much easier to have had the opportunity to build relationships with these suppliers, so I can place orders for materials and they get couriered to my door. What do you enjoy most about your work? Being able to create a memory or piece of nature into something tangible to wear. I find nothing more artistically expressive than wearing flowers in one’s hair or ears and ensconced around one’s neck. Do you have a favourite piece of jewellery from your collection? Definitely, The Girl With the Pearl Earring. My obsession with Meisje met de Parel, as the work is known in Vermeer’s home country, the Neth-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

JEWELLERY DESIGN|SAJN

erlands, began when I took art classes and we commenced by painting a famous portrait. I chose this work. I was mesmerised by it. I read Tracy Chevalier’s eponymous novel [HarperCollins], based on the work and saw the movie. The very first piece of jewellery I designed, before I started pursuing my jewellery dream, was my meisje. I first designed her as an earring in one ear and a pearl in the other. After that, she evolved into pendants and brooches. If you could pick anyone to wear your jewellery who would it be? Kenyan-American actress and author Lupita Nyong’o. What does the future hold? It is overwhelming to start a new brand and business, and this year has had its challenges, but I am very excited about the future. I hope to do collaborations, exhibit my jewellery and sell at markets like Kamers/Makers. One of my dreams is to make flower crowns and bold statement pieces for a fashion show or a special occasion that we celebrate, like Garden Day.

While camping and on hikes, I find inspiration from the colours and novel shapes of fynbos, especially how delicate, yet tough these plants really are. I experiment by casting them and creating small pieces of art directly from nature. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

SAJN |DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

The colour of smoky quartz is produced when natural radiation, emitted from the surrounding rock, activates colour centres around aluminium impurities within the crystalline quartz.

The ancient Romans believed that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds (perhaps the earliest association between diamonds and romantic love).

Sweat can weaken the inlay of your ring. Wearing your engagement ring when you work out can also cause it to bend and change its shape, or it can cause the stone’s setting to bend and the stones to fall out.

Injectable gold has been proven to help reduce pain and swelling in patients suffering from tuberculosis and rheumatoid arthritis.

Automobile magnate Henry Ford was the first to uncover the contemporary industrial uses of diamonds. He sponsored research into its applications for the manufacturing sector, especially as a low-cost abrasive.

To make silver durable enough for use in jewellery, pure silver, which has a ,999 fineness (99,9%), is often alloyed with small quantities of copper (7,5%). The copper is added to strengthen the silver andthe resulting product is ,925 sterling silver (92,5%).

Titanium is now popular in designer rings and other jewellery due to its durability, its resistance to seawater and chlorine in swimming pools and the fact that it is non-toxic. Titanium cannot be melted unless it is in a vacuum.

There are seven Hebrew words (seven is a number that symbolises perfection) in the Old Testament used to refer to gold. The most common word used is zahav. It is from a root word that means "to shimmer" or "shine".

Through history, live insect jewellery has been worn. The Egyptians may have been the first to do so, wearing scarab beetles into battle. In Britain the Victorians loved it, often sporting huge, vivid live beetles attached to their clothing by tiny, fine gold chains.

• For your dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

DIAMONDS|SAJN

De Beers Group launches second round of Diamond Beneficiators Project in SA The De Beers Group has welcomed the second intake of five diamond polishing and jewellery manufacturing companies that will participate in its Enterprise Development Project for Diamond Beneficiators. LAUNCHED IN 2016, THE ENTERPRISE DEVELopment Project for Diamond Beneficiators aims to facilitate the growth and transformation of diamond beneficiation in SA, with a holistic approach that seeks to optimise interventions in all aspects of the diamond pipeline, from rough diamond purchasing and state-of-theart manufacturing of diamonds and jewellery to marketing and distribution. The five companies, which specialise in cutting and polishing of diamonds, precious metal refining and jewellery-making, include B&H Mining, Irresistible Rough Diamonds, Isabella Jewellers, Outclass Crystallized Gems and Sunrise Gems. They were selected from a pool of companies that were identified by stakeholders from across the industry. Of these companies, four have beneficiation licences, one has a jeweller’s permit and precious metal refining licence, two are 100% black female-owned, with overall three femaleowned, and one is based in Kimberley. Speaking at the launch of the programme at Raizcorp on 6 October 2020, Peter Phemelo Moeti, Senior Vice-President of De Beers Sightholder Sales SA, said: “It’s pleasing that we have so many women in the project this year. This is aligned to the commitments we’ve made, including to UN Women, to support female participation in our industry. Our aim is to assist with the growth and transformation of the diamond industry in SA. We’re also extending our contribution to include jewellery manufacturers, thus demonstrating our sup-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

port for beneficiation throughout the value chain. For us, it’s also about making sure that the companies we’ve appointed succeed in primarily having competitive and very important entrepreneurial skills, and those skills are provided by Raizcorp.” Allon Raiz, CEO of Raizcorp, said: “De Beers has been unique in its approach to enterprise development. It’s very involved, with a handson approach that allows us to give the best possible entrepreneurial development. If you look at the last cohort, those are big shoes to fill. The journey of entrepreneurs is that they go down and then they go up. We’re remodelling your mindset, your language and your thought pattern: we’re remodelling you the way you’re remodelling the diamond. There’s a huge amount of investment from De Beers Group and Raizcorp in shaping you to become role models.” Claudia Bompani of Gauteng, the 27-yearold owner of Irresistible Rough Diamonds, said she hoped the programme would provide her with entrepreneurial support and that in the end, she would have a sound business and a good strategy in place. “I hope that by the time

I come out of this, I’ll have diversified my business into different target markets,” she said. Nomalungelo Stofile, Director of 100% black female-owned Sunrise Gems, said: “Being selected by the De Beers Group to be part of the programme is unbelievable. I hope to harness my business skills through Raizcorp.” Last year five diamond-cutting and polishing companies graduated from the groundbreaking project. Each participating company received an allocation of rough diamonds from the De Beers Group, in line with its market requirements and capacity. In addition, the project facilitated local and international market access and sponsored the companies’ participation at international trade shows, including the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair and JCK Las Vegas. Kealeboga Pule, an alumnus of the programme and owner of Nungu Diamonds, said the programme had helped him become a better businessman. “Raizcorp is a safe space for development and I’m better at what I do because of its support and mentorship. It was a humbling experience. As an alumnus of the programme, I pledge to be available to the new cohorts whenever they need me.”

(Above): Eight members of the five diamond polishing and jewellery manufacturing companies selected for the De Beers Group Diamond Beneficiation Project, in partnership with Raizcorp.

SAJN |WATCHES

Rolex intro in Oyster P HEADQUARTERED IN GENEVA, ROLEX IS recognised the world over for its expertise and the quality of its products. Its Oyster Perpetual and Cellini watches, all certified as Superlative Chronometers for their precision, performance and reliability, are symbols of excellence, elegance and prestige. The word “Perpetual” is inscribed on every Rolex Oyster. But more than just a word on a dial, it is a philosophy that embodies the company’s vision and values. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of the company, instilled a notion of perpetual excellence that would drive the company forward. This led Rolex to pioneer the development of the wristwatch and numerous major watchmaking innovations, such as the Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch, launched in 1926, and the Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanism, invented in 1931. Rolex has registered over 500 patents in the course of its history. A truly integrated and independent manufacturing company, it designs, develops and produces in-house the essential components of its watches, from the casting of the gold alloys to the machining, crafting, assembly and finishing of the movement, case, dial and bracelet. The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, professional divers’ watches par excellence, are unveiled with a redesigned and slightly larger 41 mm case. They are equipped respectively with calibre 3230, launched this year, and calibre 3235. The Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 is presented in a white Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and 18ct white gold) and features dials in a variety of colours, with either index hour-markers or Roman numerals made of 18ct white gold. Completely revised, the Oyster Perpetual range welcomes a new 41 mm model: the Oyster Perpetual 41. The Oyster Perpetual 36 brings vibrant dials to the range. Both these watches are fitted with calibre 3230. The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet for the first time. The innovative, high-performance elastomer

The timepieces presented this year by renowned Swiss watch brand Rolex are equipped with movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology. 36

bracelet on this 18ct yellow gold version has an Oysterclasp and the Rolex Glidelock extension system for enhanced comfort on the wrist. The timepieces presented this year are equipped with movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

WATCHES|SAJN

oduces latest creations Perpetual collection watches, they carry the brand’s own Superlative Chronometer certification, symbolised by a green seal. This guarantees that they satisfy performance criteria which exceed watchmaking norms and standards in terms of precision, waterproofness, self-winding and power reserve. The certification is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. Submariner The new-generation Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are presented with an updated design, characterised by a slightly larger 41 mm case and a bracelet with a broader centre link. True to the original model, the new Submariner – in Oystersteel – has a black dial and matching Cerachrom bezel insert. The first version of the Submariner Date being presented is also made of Oystersteel and brings together a black dial and green bezel insert. A second yellow Rolesor version of the watch (combining Oystersteel and 18ct yellow gold) has a royal blue dial and blue bezel insert. The third 18ct white gold version features a black dial and blue bezel insert. The Oyster Perpetual Submariner is equipped

with calibre 3230, while the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date is fitted with calibre 3235. Both movements incorporate the Chronergy escapement, developed and patented by Rolex, and offer a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Datejust New white Rolesor versions (combining Oystersteel and 18ct white gold) of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 are presented. On the first watch, a diamond-set bezel surrounds an aubergine sunray-finish dial with 18ct white gold Roman numerals – the VI set with 11 diamonds. The three other versions, all with a fluted bezel, are fitted respectively with a mint green sunray-finish dial, a white lacquer dial and a dark grey sunray-finish dial. These watches are fitted with calibre 2236, which includes the Syloxi hairspring, developed and patented by Rolex. They have a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Oyster Perpetual 41 The Oyster Perpetual 41 – a new model joining the Oyster Perpetual range – is launched with a silver or bright black sunray-finish dial. On the

first new version, the hour-markers and hands are in 18ct yellow gold, bringing a retro touch to an Oystersteel watch. On the second, they are in 18ct white gold. The Oyster Perpetual 36 takes on a dynamic look, proposing lacquer dials in five original colours: candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green. These watches are fitted with an Oyster bracelet and an Oysterclasp with the Easylink comfort extension system – a first for the Oyster Perpetual range. All are equipped with calibre 3230. Incorporating the Chronergy escapement, the power reserve of this new movement extends to approximately 70 hours. Sky-Dweller The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is introduced with an Oysterflex bracelet. It is the first watch in the Classic category to receive this innovative, Rolex-patented bracelet. This 18ct yellow gold version with a bright black sunray-finish dial offers the high-performance elastomer bracelet with an Oysterclasp and the Rolex Glidelock extension system, which allows fine adjustment of the bracelet for optimal comfort on the wrist. The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is equipped with calibre 9001, one of the most complex movements to be developed and manufactured by Rolex. This calibre includes a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by the brand in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The word ‘Perpetual’ is inscribed on every Rolex Oyster. But more than just a word on a dial, it is a philosophy that embodies the company’s vision and values.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

SAJN |LITTLE GEMS AN ENGAGEMENT RING IS AN ESSENTIAL PART of romance and marriage, and an important episode in a married couple’s relationship in Western society today. As far back as 2800 BC, Egyptians were buried with rings made of silver or gold on the third finger of the left hand, a position believed to be connected directly to the heart by the vena amoris. In the distant past, the majority of engagement and wedding rings were simple bands. Some early tokens of love from the Middle Ages could not really be identified as such unless they had an inscription, but they often contained a gemstone. The inclusion of a diamond dates back to the 15th century – an early engagement ring of 1477 is attributed to Archduke Maximilian of Austria who, on his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy, gave her a ring set with a diamond, as well as a gold ring. He is credited with instituting the practice, although it is believed that a faithful advisor told him the ring should contain a diamond for the betrothal ceremony. The ring is reputed to have been set with flat pieces of diamonds in the shape of an “M”. Not all suitors could afford a diamond as a token of love during the Middle Ages, but the best stone the prospective groom could purchase was the norm. Thus a tradition was established. By the end of the 19th century, engagement rings similar to those we know today appeared, signifying the couple’s intention to marry after

An engaging practice Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches. the engagement period. But many affluent men preferred to substitute an even more valuable coloured gemstone, such as an emerald or sapphire, in place of a diamond. A simple gold band inscribed with the initials and date of the marriage was added at the wedding ceremony. The discovery of rare and large stones in the diamond fields of South Africa in 1870 and the plentiful supply of these fuelled diamonds being worn by the social elite and indirectly encouraged the practice

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

LITTLE GEMS|SAJN

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

While diamonds may be forever, marriages are not always so – which begs the question: in the event of a divorce, does the wife get to keep the engagement ring?

of including a diamond in the engagement ring. So plentiful were they that at the end of the next decade, the custom of inserting two diamonds in an engagement ring was quite common. The custom was endorsed by the major mining giant, De Beers, which launched this successful marketing strategy in 1947 with the assistance of advertising agency NW Ayer, which came up with the iconic slogan: “A diamond is forever.” An engagement ring is traditionally set in platinum or gold and is generally regarded as an emotional asset in a couple’s relationship and, later, as a family heirloom. I received one of the two original stones from my mother’s engagement ring, which she was given in 1918. I then passed this on to my granddaughter Rachel, when she got engaged, and it was set in her platinum engagement ring. An additional memento of the actual proposal was presented as a preliminary token for her from her future fiancé while the engagement ring was being made. Known as a “holding ring”, it has

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2020

developed into a custom in London, where they live. Hers is a silver ring bought at Tiffany’s, which accompanied his romantic proposal. She was thrilled to receive this beautiful piece and chose to keep wearing it permanently on her right hand once the traditional token was ready. “It was the first time I’d received anything in the traditional pale blue presentation packaging from this renowned jeweller,” said Rachel. That, it seems, made the proposal even more romantic. It also took the pressure off the prospective groom by allowing her some say in the design of the formal token, which was a combination of the aforesaid large stone with a platinum shaft set with smaller diamonds. Her professional expertise in strategic marketing made her aware that this

practice meant the sale of two rings from the jeweller and would create a feeling of loyalty for any future jewellery purchases. Sadly, in present times, while diamonds may be forever, marriages are not always so – which begs the question: in the event of a divorce, does the wife get to keep the engagement ring? After all, it has a commercial value, as well as an emotional one. This is a contentious issue, and settling it legally could depend on where you live. Tradition has it that if the man breaks off the relationship, the woman is entitled to keep the ring as a form of compensation. However, some believe that since it was a conditional gift of love, if that affection is lost, the ring should be returned to the giver. Alternatively, its allocation could be part of the divorce settlement. There is no clear answer.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

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