SAJN Nov 2013

NOVEMBER 2013

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Rolex: the heart of a brand Sid Forman celebrates 60 years in the industry Carranza: the myth and the industry Tough titanium

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents

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SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

6. NEWS • Sid Forman celebrates 60 years in the industry • Ernie Blom appointed Economic Diplomacy Advisor to Belgium • CIBJO president addresses AFG's 50th anniversary conference in Paris • Fiera di Vicenza releases dates for 2014 events • Okavango Diamond Company now open for business • Jewels of provenance to lead Christie’s sale • Inhorgenta Munich 2014 scheduled for February • DDC New York to host second edition of Israel Diamond Week

16. GEMMOLOGY Carranza: the myth and the industry

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,

19. BRAND HISTORY

Johannesburg, South Africa.

Rolex: the heart of a brand

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Colors Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

20. BRAND MANAGEMENT • X by Trollbeads – the next revolution in personalised jewellery

12. SCENE AROUND TW Steel partners with Rhino Action Group Effort to support the fight against rhino poaching

• It’s all about guys helping guys do jewellery for girls • Bold and intriguing – that’s de Grisogono

15. PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

• Chrono with a military look

• Latest PUK04 welding machine and revolutionary electronic gold and platinum tester

• Watch of the Year award-winners

• New laser system revealed

28. LITTLE GEMS

• Induction centrifugal spin casting system

Tough titanium

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

NOVEMBER 2013

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

• Homage to a landmark of the past

The industry's only trade journal

On the cover AA Diamonds is the proud manufacturer of quality fine diamond jewellery and

Rolex: the heart of a brand Sid Forman celebrates 60 years in the industry Carranza: the myth and the industry

the distributor of luxury pen brands Visconti and Émonte. Situated in Befordview, Johannesburg, other services offered by the company include diamond polishing, gold refining and supplying rough diamonds. For more information, contact AA Diamonds

Tough titanium

on tel: (011) 455-4555 or e-mail: aa.diamonds@hotmail.com.

5

SID FORMAN CELEBRATES 60 YEARS IN THE INDUSTRY Born in Johannesburg of humble beginnings, master craftsman Sid Forman established the company over 60 years ago and still heads what has become one of South Africa’s most prestigious jewellery and diamond companies.

Known as a master goldsmith, an artist, designer and jeweller, his work evidences a finely orchestrated, artistic approach to creating gold objets d’art, jewellery, painting and sculpture.

Numerous awards, both nationally and internationally, bear testimony to a creative

genius in a wide range of mediums from gold to bronze, wood and marble. He is also known to judge various competitions and to mentor in apprenticeship programmes for aspiring designers and artists.

Over 60 years in the business of creating gold objets d’art, jewellery and diamond masterpieces have consolidated the name of Sid Forman as synonymous with timeless design, quality and artistic integrity. The company showcases a dynamic team of awardwinning designers, artists and sculptors who combine the latest technologies and knowhow with creative excellence.

The design expertise at Sid Forman is evident through its three-time success in winning the coveted De Beers DiamondsInternational Awards, as well as reaching the finals four times. The company’s singularity is highlighted by Sid Forman’s admission into the Diamonds International Awards Academy.

The range of services offered by Sid Forman has pleased presidents, kings and queens, from conceptual design to expertly crafted aesthetic works.

FIERA DI VICENZA RELEASES DATES FOR 2014 EVENTS At the latest edition of VicenzaOro Fall, the International Gold and Jewellery Show, Fiera di Vicenza presented the new calendar for its 2014 jewellery events.

The three editions of VicenzaOro will each offer specific content with a different focus in terms of demand, covering all the alternatives of the product range, information on trends, and technological innovations, and will further distinguish itself as an unmissable international date for operators.

The new 2014 calendar will be as follows: VicenzaOro Winter, 18-23 January, VicenzaOro Spring, 10-13 May and VicenzaOro Fall, 6-10 September.

VIcenzaOro – with the international Exhibitions of Jewellery and Gold and with T-GOLD, the exhibition dedicated to technological innovation – is the showcase of the whole industry chain, from technological innovation to jewellery, a leader in Europe, and among the top exhibitions in the B2B world.

SUSAN JACQUES NAMED GIA PRESIDENT AND CEO The Board of Governors of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced the appointment of Susan M Jacques as president and CEO. Jacques, currently president and CEO of Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts in Omaha, Nebraska, and chair of the GIA board, will take up her new responsibilities on 1 January 2014.

At the board’s request, she has been interim president and CEO since June 2013.

The board also announced the appointment of John A Green, a board member since 2008, as chair, replacing Jacques. Green is CEO of Lux Bond & Green, a family-owned jeweller established in 1898 with eight locations in the USA states of Connecticut and Massachusetts.

“The Board of Governors is very pleased to appoint Susan Jacques to this crucial role as GIA’s president and CEO,” says Green. “Her evident passion for the global gem and jewellery industry, impressive success in business, experience as a gemmologist and commitment to the institute’s public benefit mission led to the board’s decision. She is the perfect person to lead GIA now and into the future.”

Jacques has a long-established relationship with GIA, having received her Graduate Gemologist diploma in 1980. She was appointed to the GIA’s Board of Governors in 1996 and elected chair in 2008. As president and CEO, she will continue as a member of the board.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

CIBJO PRESIDENT ADDRESSES AFG'S 50TH ANNIVERSARY CONFERENCE IN PARIS Gaetano Cavalieri joined government officials, senior industry representatives and leading gemmologists from around the world at a conference in Paris to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of l'Association Française de Gemmologie (AFG), the French Gemmological Association.

Addressing the gathering, Cavalieri credited AFG and the gemmological community for

DDC NEW YORK TO HOST SECOND EDITION OF ISRAEL DIAMOND WEEK The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) and the Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC) have announced that the second edition of the Israel Diamond Week in New York will be held from 11-14 November 2013 on the trading floor of the Diamond Dealers Club of New York, which is located on 580 Fifth Avenue in midtown Manhattan. The event is a joint initiative of the DDC and IDE and aims to boost the trade between the two bourses’ members, to renew business between local suppliers and their clients, and to lower the threshold for diamond-buying jewellery manufacturers and jewellery retailers who wish to get access to the club.

IDE president Yair Sahar said that the format of the diamond weeks in New York and in Israel had proven itself to be very successful and that since the first Israel Diamond Week in New York was held in December of last year, the enthusiasm of both DDC and IDE members about these events has grown beyond expectations. ”When we once again meet in New York – American and Israeli diamond dealers – we will

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

enhancing the confidence of consumers in jewellery and the jewellery industry. ”Consumer confidence is the platform on which we stand. If it becomes fragile and collapses, so will we,” he stated, wishing AFG, its president, Didier Giard and its Council of Administration “many more years of serving as one of the buttresses of the foundation on which we all stand.” ”Your ability to keep abreast of developments in the marketplace and the minefields, to conduct proper and disciplined scientific research, to publish and disseminate what you have learned and then to serve the industry through gem identification and grading is absolutely essential,” Cavalieri stated. “We are dependent upon your professional integrity, the quality of your research and the way in which you organise and operate your laboratories.

You hold the reputation of our business in the palms of your hands. It is a privilege and also a great responsibility.”

The CIBJO president called on the participants to contribute to the review and maintenance of the CIBJO Blue Books, which he described as “the most universally recognised and accepted set of jewellery and gemstone standards in the world.”

do so with the knowledge that these events not only enhance the trade between the members of the DDC and IDE, but also strengthen the relationships between the local members,” said Yair Sahar. “It is therefore important that we alternate the locations of these business matching and trading events, as they enhance and boost business across the board. Of course, I wish to pay tribute to DDC president Reuven Kaufman for his tenacity and his support, and for bringing back the trade to the trading floor of our respective bourses.”

Sahar noted that more than 100 Israeli diamond firms have already signed up to participate in the event. “We had some 50 Israeli companies participating in the first Israel Diamond Week in New York last year.

The enthusiasm displayed by our members to participate in this event says it all.”

“The time slot chosen for this event will give jewellery manufacturers, retailers and designers an excellent opportunity to replenish their stocks, as they all are giving their business another decisive push towards the Christmas holiday season,” DDC president Kaufman said.

“During the first half of this year, jewellery sales grew some 10% compared with last year. That fills us with optimism ahead of the holiday sales season,” he added.

CAPE TOWN: TEL 021 510 0770, FAX 021 510 0778 GAUTENG: 0861 METALS (0861 638 257) DURBAN: CELL 082 789 3882

NEWS

GIA HOSTS PREMIÈRE OF MASTERS OF DREAMS The Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) headquarters in seaside Carlsbad, California recently set the scene for the West Coast première of the jewellery documentary Masters of Dreams. A group of nearly 200 industry leaders, local officials and jewellery connoisseurs gathered at the institute for an exclusive sunset reception and film screening.

Ken McGrath, GIA graduate and film-maker, Alberto Milani, CEO of the Americas for jewellery house Buccellati and Guy Bedarida, creative director and head designer for jewellery house John Hardy, participated in a lively panel discussion following a showing of “The Italian Jewellers” segment.

“Not only does the film beautifully capture the diverse aesthetic of the different jewellery

houses, but it gives viewers a behind-the-scenes look into the truly global process of making jewellery. Having the West Coast première of this documentary series at GIA fits very well with the institute’s mission to educate the public on gems and jewellery,” said Susan Jacques, chair of the GIA Board of Governors, who also served as panel moderator for the event.

Earlier in the day, GIA students and staff in Carlsbad had the exclusive opportunity to preview the “Jewellers of the Americas” segment and speak to McGrath, Milani and Bedarida.

“It was great coming back to my alma mater to show my peers – and current students – how I’ve been able to turn my passion for gems into a creative career. Combining my love of jewellery and film-making has been a

journey, which all started in GIA’s halls back in 1980,” said McGrath.

Masters of Dreams is a four-part documentary series that goes behind the scenes with 13 of the world’s most legendary jewellery houses: Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Chaumet, Chopard, Damiani, De Beers Jewellery, Forevermark, Graff Diamonds, H Stern, John Hardy, Stephen Webster and Verdura. From Paris to New York, London to Bali and Milan to Rio, the series offers a breathtaking journey into the world of fine jewellery, filled with famous families, gemstone hunters and some of the world’s most innovative designers.

The series is produced by French Connection Films in partnership with Quasar Multimedia and Current Affairs Hambrook Communications.

INHORGENTA MUNICH 2014 SCHEDULED FOR FEBRUARY During the past 10 years, turnover in the German jewellery and timepiece trade has increased by 60% to almost six billion euros last year. As the most important German trade show in the area of jewellery and timepieces and one of the leading shows worldwide,

Inhorgenta Munich is the driving force behind this development with 1 237 exhibitors and around 30 000 trade visitors who took part in the 2013 event.

The 2014 edition has been scheduled to take place from 14-17 February.

OKAVANGO DIAMOND COMPANY NOW OPEN FOR BUSINESS Okavango Diamond Company (ODC) has been officially launched in Gaborone, Botswana, by His Excellency the President, Lieutenant-General Seretse Ian Khama. ODC’s launch follows a successful pilot sale held in July and signals that the company has formally opened its doors to the global diamond market.

In his keynote speech, His Excellency stated that “ODC’s establishment will allow us to share the best of Botswana to the many international business men and women who will arrive here to buy Botswana’s rough diamonds”.

ODC provides the global diamond industry with access to scale supply of a full range of Botswana’s diamonds at market-determined prices. The company will hold regular sales via its customised online auction platform following viewings of its diamonds at its purpose-built facility in Gaborone. Recognising the value to customers of committed and predictable supply, ODC also plans to introduce fixed-term supply contracts in 2014.

Commenting at the launch, ODC’s board chairman, Jacob Thamage, stated: “ODC’s establishment will help transform Botswana into a leading rough diamond sourcing destination.

We are proud to be opening our doors and we look forward to welcoming customers from across the world to participate in our sales.”

ODC’s inaugural sale started on 23 September, with viewings that ran for a two-week period, culminating in an online auction which took place on 9 October.

JEWELS OF PROVENANCE TO LEAD CHRISTIE’S SALE Christie’s 12 November auction of Magnificent Jewels in Geneva will include the collections of a late French socialite and Bolivian business tycoon.

Helene Rochas was born in 1927 and married French fashion designer Marcel Rochas, whom she met during World War II. When he died, she took over the fragrance branch of his company and proved to be a successful businesswoman, launching many famous perfumes.

Eighteen of Rochas’ jewels are included in the sale, including a mystery-set Magnolia brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, which is expected to sell for up to US$255 000.

In addition, three lots from the collection of Bolivian businessman Simón Itturi Patino are

expected to be highlights of the sale, namely an emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier that is expected to fetch up to US$10 million.

Designed in 1937, the necklace was created from “The Andean Cross,” an emerald cross that once belonged to Queen Isabel II of Spain and the Empress Eugenie of France. Cartier selected more than 100 carats of emeralds to create the necklace, which Patino purchased in 1938.

“History, provenance and outstanding quality are here combined with the signatures of two of the oldest and greatest jewellery houses,” said Francois Curiel, international head of Christie’s jewellery department, of the Patino lots. “These are true treasures for the world’s collectors of today.”

STEFANO STENTA APPOINTED NEW LEGAL REPRESENTATIVE OF FIERA DI VICENZA AFTER THE RESIGNATION OF PAOLO MANTOVANI AS PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY Stefano Stenta has taken on the role of legal representative of the company Fiera di Vicenza SpA. The Board of Directors of Fiera di Vicenza has asked Stenta to take on the role in accordance with the statute of the company, following Paolo Mantovani’s resignation from his role as president of Fiera di Vicenza.

Stenta has been holding the role of vice-president of Fiera di Vicenza since January 2010 and will manage the company relying on the collabo-

ration of the executive director, Corrado Facco.

Stenta has been president of Atelier Stimamiglio Srl since 1992, a company that operates in the design and manufacture of haute couture clothing for women for Italian and international fashion designers and brands. Since 2011, he has also been vice-president of the Committee Unionfiliere and within Confartigianato Vicenza he is also the president of SME’s Association of Vicenza’s Fashion System.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

Suppliers of: Carat Gold Alloy Grain, Plating Solutions, Solders and Pre-Alloys

DIAMOND FEDERATION OF HONG KONG, LEADING CHINESE JEWELLERS MEET WITH WORLD DIAMOND MARK FOUNDATION FOR TALKS A working group consisting of representatives of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong (DFHK) and of prominent leading Chinese jewellery manufacturing and retail companies met with a delegation of the World Diamond Mark Foundation (WDMF), for an update on the implementations of the WDM’s goals, the Authorised Diamond Dealers (ADD) concept and programme. Headed by DFHK president Lawrence Yung Yi Ma, the working group discussed with the WDMF delegates the specific needs and conditions for the WDM and ADD programmes to be implemented successfully in the Chinese jewellery retail and consumer markets. The meeting took place during the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair earlier

mately roll out the fully-fledged programmes of the WDM. Therefore the discussions were intense and very helpful,” Popov said.

He added that the WDM is in advanced negotiations with a leading Chinese jewellery retailing group to introduce the ADD programme into its stores nationwide.

The WDM’s global objective is to ensure the health and future growth of the diamond and jewellery industry in the luxury market sector. It is based on three fundamental principles: the education of the jewellery retailers about diamonds; confidencebuilding among consumers with the WDM accreditation programme and the creation of a generic marketing programme to promote

this month.

WDMF chairman Alex Popov said that such meetings are essential to investigate how the WDM programme needs to be shaped, adapted and formatted to fit the conditions – economically and culturally – of those markets in which the WDM will be introduced.

“The most important outcome of this meeting was that, skipping the usual explanations about the need for generic diamond marketing and advertising programmes, we were able to cut right to the chase. I was very encouraged by the participants’ openness to our arguments that Asia, and in particular the Chinese jewellery retail and consumer market, is the ideal ‘laboratory’ to test-run and ulti-

diamonds and diamond jewellery, based on the ADD concept.

The ADD concept is the cornerstone of the WDM programme. The international diamond business community, represented by the WFDB, will accredit jewellery retailers as authorised diamond dealers. This will lead to greater and wider brand recognition of diamonds as a luxury product and to the increased visibility of diamonds in jewellery shops and outlets.

Worldwide marketing campaigns will add to greater consumer confidence and enlarge the slice of diamonds in the luxury spending pie.

The World Diamond Mark Foundation is a not-for-profit foundation, incorporated in Hong Kong, SAR, China.

ERNIE BLOM APPOINTED ECONOMIC DIPLOMACY ADVISOR TO BELGIUM

having an honourable reputation, enjoying civil and political rights, experience of at least 10 years on the subject of social, economic, trade or financial matters and having sufficient knowledge of the institutional framework and social economic climate of Belgium.

Blom’s responsibilities will include submitting notices to the Minister of Foreign Affairs which contribute to the development of social, economic, trade and financial relations between Belgium and South Africa, as well as responding to enquiries by the minister on information relating to South Africa. Blom will also be tasked with assisting the Belgian diplomatic representative in South Africa with the development of the region.

Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), has been appointed as South Africa’s Economic Diplomacy Advisor to Belgium after being nominated by the Belgian Minister of Foreign Affairs. The appointment, by royal decree, is based on Blom’s contribution towards the development of social, economic, trade and financial relations between the two countries.

In order to serve as an economic diplomacy advisor, Blom had to meet a number of requirements which included

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THE REFINED CHOICE FOR SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

GOLD. PLATINUM. SILVER.

SCENE AROUND

TW Steel partners with Rhino Action Group Effort (RAGE) to support the fight against rhino poaching On 13 September, TW Steel launched its RAGE Special Edition Watch Collection during a chic gathering at the Sandton Sun in Johannesburg.

A number of celebrities attended the launch, where David O’Sullivan from 702 Talk Radio served as host and Andy Rice, also from 702 Talk Radio, served as a guest speaker.

The launch saw “The Watch in Steel” produce a four-model collection based on its popular Canteen Style timepieces, incorporating the RAGE logo and sold exclusively through a dedicated web-store with retail

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proceeds donated directly to RAGE. RAGE was set up to assist in the fight against the illegal rhino poaching scourge and specifically designed to be a safe conduit for public contributions to this cause, whether they be financial, material or in the form of skills and information.

“I’m exceptionally proud that TW Steel can get behind such a worthy initiative in South Africa,” commented TW Steel CEO and coowner, Jordy Cobelens. “I know how passionate people are there about protecting the rhino population, not least as they represent such a

powerful symbol of their environment. ”I’m delighted we can contribute with our special-edition timepieces, safe in the knowledge that RAGE will ensure all proceeds are managed appropriately and that those who support this effort are making a real difference.”

“As a local market platform, I’m naturally very enthusiastic that TW Steel will support such a worthwhile campaign and one that many South Africans care deeply about,” said Gary Hopkins, national sales manager for Luxco, TW Steel’s South African distribution partner.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES

Products, tools and technologies Latest PUK04 welding machine and revolutionary electronic gold and platinum tester Developed by goldsmiths for goldsmiths, the new PUK04 allows you to weld on findings, easily add metal, weld adjacent to stones, weld silver (alloys), fill porosity, attach work pieces prior to soldering, weld seams and much more.

This quality “made in Germany” by Lampert apparatus has superior welding characteristics, is simple and intuitive to operate and features a number of advantages such as maintenance-free technology, low initial costs, a compact size (fits into every workshop), a welding microscope for precise welding results and the ability to make repairs and soldering work faster and easier. The PUK04 comes with practi-

cal system add-ons such as the PIN module, welding smoke absorber, welding wires and more – all available to suit the user’s individual requirements. Capewatch Tool & Jewellery Supplies showcased the PUK04 at this year’s Jewellex Africa and is the only supplier who has had training on this machine and gives training free of charge with a purchased unit.

Also on display at the Capewatch Tool & Jewellery Supplies stand at Jewellex was the GemOro AuRacle electronic gold and platinum tester. “This is a new way of testing gold electronically without dangerous acids and it is affordable, compared with hand-held

thermo gun,” explains Tennille Hoge. It is the world’s most user-friendly, best-performing hand-held electronic gold and platinum tester with unmatched and tests all colours of gold from 6-24ct as well as platinum. “All that is required from the user is to follow the easy steps to identify non-gold, gold plate and gold-filled as NA,” says Hoge. “Results will be displayed immediately – there is no waiting between tests.”

It has no messy gel, no staining chemicals and no dangerous acids. It is compact and portable and is powered by a 9V alkaline battery.

Induction centrifugal spin-casting system

jewellery casting system now incorporates a vacuum inert casting chamber. Its wide melting range makes it ideal for goldsmiths, design studios and manufacturers.

Features include integrated melting, casting and temperature control, a vacuum inert melting and casting environment, while metal yields of up to 75% can be achieved with its innovative sprueing technique.

It has a wide melting range from 20-250 g of platinum and force on each piece can be accurately controlled, with adjustable centrifugal speed from 300-1 100 rpm. It further comes with an optional two-colour optical pyrometer with accurate measurement and control between 800-2 100ºC. It operates off a 220 V electrical supply and has an easy-to-use colour touchscreen interface.

Since 2012, its product range also includes fibre technology and the Fiberscan fibre laser is a valuable complement to its FireScan diode laser.

Fiberscan SQ is its standard fibre laser system for cost-efficient and effective engraving, particularly for engraving greater depths. The Fiberscan SQ works much faster than traditional diode laser technology.

The Fiberscan HQ enables very fast and deep engravings and at the same time offers very fine and filigree quality. With the previous standard, combining these characteristics in one device was impossible in fibre laser technology. The Fiberscan HQ therefore has proven to be the ideal solution for highest demands.

Equally important as a functioning laser system is suitable software. The software forms the interface between user and machine, where absolutely no compromises have been made. Its V3 marking software has been developed specifically for customers from the jewellery and watchmaking industry.

The ICON 3CS VAC, distributed locally by Hot Platinum, is a compact and versatile induction centrifugal spin-casting machine designed for production of the finest-quality platinum, palladium, stainless steel, gold and silver jewellery. The renowned high-precision

New laser system revealed Lazer Options recently revealed the new Fiberscan by Siro Lasertec. Since 1993, Siro Lasertec has been a pioneer in the jewellery industry. Marking lasers have been an integral part of its product range since 1996.

The company’s long-standing experience and ongoing dialogue with its customers have made its laser systems a virtually unrivalled product.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

15

GEMMOLOGY

COLOMBIA’S EMERALD DEPOSITS HAVE BEEN known since before the time of the Spanish Conquest and most of these deposits have been extracted through artisanal methods.

It was only recently, less than 40 years ago, that industrialised methods of extraction were introduced into the emerald region.

Emerald trading Emerald, known as one of the top four precious stones, caught the attention of different governments in South America since their independence from Spain. Different regimes, through different laws, created restrictions not only on the extraction of emeralds, but also on the gemstone trade. Before 1973, the government had exclusive mining rights to the extraction of emeralds and trading by the public was considered illegal. The penalties included jail time. Despite the situation and due to the high profits the trade yielded back then, many were willing to risk everything, including their own lives, in their quest for fortune.

People from mining districts kept buying and selling emeralds, even when trading was perceived as smuggling. Some of these traders ended up controlling a big chunk of the emerald trading business in the mines. To the government, they were outlaws, but for the people living in the mining areas they were considered leaders, employers or benefactors.

Undoubtedly, one of the best-known figures in the trade in the last 20 years was Victor Carranza, who was called the “Emerald Czar” by the local media.

Carranza: the myth and the industry

“Emerald Czar” Carranza was one of the men in charge of the pacification of the emerald district. He played a major role in the signing of a peace treaty, which ended the conflict that ravaged the mining district, immediately after the assassination of emerald lord Gilberto Molina.

Although Carranza was a wealthy man when the peace agreement was signed, his fortune increased significantly when peace finally reigned in the mining district. He even made Forbes’ list of “Richest People” on the planet.

There is scant information available about Carranza’s personal life. It is known, however, that he was born on 8 October 1935 in a small town on the east side of the Boyaca state called Gauteque. It is also known that he became an orphan in his early years, which drove him out of school and into a life of business and trading. It is highly likely that the proximity of his hometown to the Chivor emerald mine had

16

The Colombian emerald industry has suffered from many wrong impressions both within the country as well as internationally, in part due to the media and in part due to secrecy within the trade. Garbriel Angarita, and International Colored Gemstone Association ambassador to Colombia, and Michael Angarita investigate. a profound impact on his decision to try his luck in the emerald mines.

The Chivor mine was where Carranza’s myth began. His early years are a mystery and there is virtually no information available from this period of his life, but it is likely that his teen years were spent in the Chivor mine trading emeralds. However, it was mining – not trading – that turned him into the myth that he is today, even after his death.

Muzo Mine Because the government had exclusive rights to emerald production, small traders with some money in their pockets tried their luck by financing illegal small-scale mining operations.

They were hoping to strike it rich and become millionaires in a matter of months. It was in one of these illegal artisanal operations that Carranza put his hopes and money.

As luck would have it, his tunnel gave him a considerable number of emeralds, which made him wealthy, according to mining standards.

Despite his windfall, Carranza soon realised that the Chivor mines were not as productive as the mines on the west (Muzo, Cozcues and Penas Blancas). Therefore he decided to venture out into the Muzo mines.

When Carranza arrived in Muzo, he found himself surrounded by leaders and bosses who had their private armies. Even though the mining rights were owned by the government, regular incursions of settlers into the mines were common. These people were known as “guaqueros,” a term still in use today to describe people who do not have mining rights,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

GEMMOLOGY

but who nevertheless search for emeralds in the mines. The conflicts between guaqueros and the army exacerbated the tension at the mines, compelling the central government to change its emerald mining policy.

The government decided to give mining rights to private companies. This was the opportunity that the bosses and leaders from the mining areas were waiting for in order to gain proper and official control of emerald production. Carranza knew this was a chance and together with Muzo’s most prominent boss, Gilberto Molina, and some others, he secured one of the first legal mining concessions granted by the government. Although the process began in 1973, it was only in 1977 that the first mining companies were created. Tecminas in Muzo and Esmeracol in Cozcues signed the contract with the government, which allowed them to mine legally for emeralds. The emerald trade ceased to be illegal and became a business in which virtually every Colombian citizen could engage.

“Green war” With the law on their side, the new emerald miners began to use more extensive mining methods. Several dozen bulldozers were seen working in the mines at any given time. This method was very effective in finding productive veins, but ineffective when it came to controlling production output. Many goods fell into the river, igniting an emerald boom. Instead of dissipating conflict, this sudden increase in wealth led to more clashes. Conflicts in the region grew and became more complex over time. In the end, two factions emerged – the Muzo and the Cozcues groups, each with its own set of leaders. The conflict, which was known to the media as the “green war,” left hundreds of casualties. Many leaders were killed during this turbulent period, but the boss of the bosses from the Muzo side, Gilberto Molina, survived almost until the end while retaining control of the Muzo mines. On 27 February 1989, Molina was killed, making Carranza head of the emerald business. He had control of production, enabling him to put into practice his own management policy.

Very soon he understood that he had to put an end to the conflict, or his future would be as dark as those of his predecessors. Immediately following Molina’s death, he agreed to sign a peace treaty in the presence of the church.

The peace talks began in January 1990 and the final pact was signed about six months later.

The media played up the truce, with Carranza portraying a major role in the deal. During this

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

time he became Muzo’s leader, giving him the time to grow and expand his investments in other sectors.

Land-owner Carranza had vision and foresight. He purchased parcels of land which were grossly undervalued. Land was cheap then, due to the armed conflict. Farmers feared guerilla groups such as FARC. According to the media, Carranza had bought more than 2,5 million acres of the best agricultural land in the country.

Although peace reigned in the mines, Carranza did not have much time to enjoy it because of his more recent acquisition. He not only had to fend off guerilla forces, but also had to deal with druglords who wanted his land for their crops and as strategic drug-smuggling corridors. Carranza, hardened by the emerald conflict, knew how to organise his own security team, which allowed him to emerge unscathed from countless murder attempts. This further propagated his legend to such an extent that it was rumoured among some locals that he had made a pact with the devil.

One of the Colombian industry’s historic milestones was the discovery of the Pita mine. Carranza, who at the time was not a partner in the mine, managed to secure some shares in one of the most productive emerald mines in the world.

Carranza was a polemic figure and even though he had faced many accusations in his lifetime, he only spent three years in jail. The Colombian justice system could not prove his direct involvement in any crime.

Colombian Emerald Federation Contrary to what the public thought, Carranza did not control 100% of Colombia’s emerald production. He was more of a political leader than a manager and because the trade was

not controlled by one person or group, the guild was able to flourish. As a result, the Colombian Emerald Federation was created by the trade to protect, promote and develop the Colombian emerald industry from mine to market. It is a fact that Carranza’s opinion was important when important decisions needed to be made; however in the end, it was always a democratic process.

The lack of knowledge about Carranza’s role in the Colombian emerald trade led to all sorts of speculations about the future of the industry following his death in April 2013.

Contrary to popular belief, the remaining leaders understood that the way to grow financially and move forward was to focus on their businesses, rather than start meaningless fights among them. People within the trade are now thinking about the future and new synergies are being created between miners, brokers, traders and exporters to not only develop and grow the industry, but also improve the economic conditions of the people living near the mines.

The industry is focused on building a strong structure based on five principles: social responsibility, technical development, environmental care, rule of law and business ethics. By focusing on these principles the industry as whole will be stronger and ensure that each emerald bought by the end consumer will not only bring beauty to the one who wears it, but will also bring progress and prosperity to the people involved in the supply chain and the communities in the mining districts.

Recently, foreign investors are have been turning their eyes to Colombia’s emerald mining sector for several reasons, including the potential for new emerald deposits (the Colombian Geological Survey estimates that less than 90% of the emerald production areas has been mined), stable foreign investment policy, social security and attractive profit margins.

– Reprinted with permission from InColor, Summer 2013, Issue 23

Although Carranza was a wealthy man when the peace agreement was signed, his fortune increased significantly when peace finally reigned in the mining district. He even made Forbes’ list of 'Richest People' on the planet.

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BRAND HISTORY

As the world’s first waterproof watch, this design played a pivotal role in the development of modern timepieces. Through the innovative waterproof case of the Oyster, Rolex entered the annals of watchmaking history, giving the brand a head start as an innovator.

Not content with this claim, our hero decided to submit the Oyster to the supreme test. A young Englishwoman, Mercedes Gleitze, swam the English Channel at Wilsdorf’s incentive with the Oyster on her wrist in her 10-hour stint and it emerged in perfect working order. Wilsdorf published a full-page advertisement in the Daily Mail proclaiming the success of the waterproof watch, thus announcing the brand’s triumph around the world.

This event was the forerunner of an alliance between Rolex and personalities from the fields of exploration, sport and culture whose accomplishments while wearing the Oyster would confirm its excellence. With its precision and waterproofness assured, the next step in the building of the brand’s image was the development of the selfwinding movement.

This was to obviate the need to unscrew the crown in order to wind the watch, which would compromise its waterproofness and therefore its precision. The answer lay in the invention of a system with a free rotor called the Perpetual rotor. This was accomplished in 1931 and was the precursor of the present-day self-winding system, which is accomplished by a weight which oscillates, while the movement of the wrist keeps the watch wound constantly, making winding a thing of the past.

During the 1930s two additional elements of Rolex’s identity appeared on the dials – the Rolex crown – the logo and the symbol par excellence which were registered in 1931. Two years later the combination of two materials – gold and steel – (Rolesor) was yet another innovation.

The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was released in 1956 and spelt out both in full on a window on the dial – the first timepiece to display this. And watches which would function for divers in the depths of the sea in the 1960s such as the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, which was waterproof to a depth of 610 metres, were produced. This model was improved over the years until the introduction of the Rolex Sea Dweller Deep Sea in 2008, waterproof to a depth of 3 900 m.

Wilsdorf died in Geneva in 1960 after setting the fundamental course for the production of exceptional watches and the brand which would establish a tradition in the world of timekeeping.

The heart of a brand If any watch brand has a unique identity and status, it has to be Rolex. It is probable that most collectors of timepieces have at least one Rolex model in their collection – in fact, serious aficionados could have more than one. How this timepiece acquired its name and its early beginnings is part of the Rolex mystique.

FOUNDER OF THE BRAND AND RESPONSIBLE for its birth who coined its name was creative genius and visionary Hans Wilsdorf, a German watchmaker. Born in Bavaria in 1881, he was orphaned in childhood and as a youth was apprenticed to a Swiss watchmaker in the Swiss Jura town of La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Enterprising even as a youngster, he moved to London in 1905 to establish his own importing business with two partners, one of whom was a watchmaker from Bienne, Switzerland.

The aim was to import branded wristwatches.

It was Wilsdorf who created the name Rolex – because it was easy to pronounce in many languages and because he believed it sounded like the noise a watch makes when it is being wound. Added to this was the fact that it was short enough to fit on the face of the watch. However, in 1919 Wilsdorf moved the company to Geneva, where it has been based ever since.

This remarkable man could, as its head, embrace all the aspects of its fields of activity, whether it was technology, communication, organisation or distribution – in fact, he was a genius and headed Rolex for more than 50

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

years, setting a course for a wristwatch which would feature a case that would ultimately keep out both water and air. This eventually resulted in a diving watch. It was patented in 1926 and is the heart of the Rolex brand.

The location of the company, Montres Rolex SA in Geneva, brought him closer to his supplier in Bienne. In addition, the city of Geneva already had an international reputation as a manufacturer of the prestigious tourbillon.

The invention which led to the creation of the world’s first waterproof watch, the Rolex Oyster, entailed producing a case that had an ingenious patented system which contained a screw-down crown, case-back and winding crown which were hermetically sealed, thus ensuring protection for the movement. The fluting on the bezel, like that of the case-back, served a functional purpose. It was used to screw the bezel and case-back onto the middle case with a specific tool invented by Rolex.

It also gave the watch its visual identity and unique personality. Today the Oyster’s bezel is no longer screwed down onto the case, but on several designs still features the characteristic fluting which echoes the original 1926 model.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

X by Trollbeads – the next revolution in personalised jewellery Renowned jewellery designer, Trollbeads, has launched another world first in personalised jewellery – X by Trollbeads.

X by Trollbeads takes a revolutionary approach to jewellery design, allowing customers to create their own unique bracelet or necklace, choosing from a range of highquality silver, bronze, gold and black rubber X links. The linking mechanism uses an X-shaped bevelled edge connection that allows the links to connect with a “simple twist”, to create bespoke pieces of jewellery secured with one or two locks in silver or bronze.

The innovative X by Trollbeads system was developed by Trollbeads founder and head designer Lise Aagaard, and arrives almost four decades after Trollbeads first changed the global landscape of jewellery design with the invention of the bead-on bracelet concept.

The launch collection is creatively eclectic, with a range of over 70 cleverly designed and playfully themed X links. It includes contributions from nine of Trollbeads’ artistic designers, each of whom brings their own interpretation and style to the elegant, yet functional design.

Each X link has a compelling personality of its own, from rock chic symbols such as guitars and musical notes to ultra-modern links inspired by pixels and city skylines.

There are also personal and creative symbols representing love and Chinese zodiac animals.

Unexpected combinations can tell a highly individual story about the wearer.

The completed pieces of jewellery evoke a sense of raw elegance and will appeal to those

who are not afraid to make a bold statement of their own personal style.

“With X by Trollbeads we tried to hold onto to the fundamental idea of being able to create your own jewellery – customise it, make it truly unique, make it you. This is true for both Trollbeads and X by Trollbeads. X by Trollbeads is simpler. You don’t require a lock and there is no chain. It’s a much more urban and modern product. It’s more raw. This is partly because of the types of material we used and party because of the simplicity,” explains designer Nicolas Aagaard, who is also a part of Trollbead’s creative team.

“The response has been great,” continues Nicolas Aagaard. “It’s way more than we could have hoped for. People really get it.

They understand that it's about creating your own style. They understand that you can do a million things with this concept. They get the rawness of it and the fact that it is truly a new idea.”

Because an X by Trollbeads chain is a unique combination of rubber X, bronze, silver and gold X links, it can fit any budget.

A little lady grows up A watch radiant with mother-of-pearl and diamonds is an updated version of Raymond Weil’s Noemia model, which is a new presentation of this ladies’ design. The collection has been redesigned to be more mature, enchanting and seductive than before, taking

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its poetic and mysterious name from that of the founder of the brand’s granddaughter, as it was created in her image. It will appeal to more mature women, yet retains its original values. In other words, the little lady has grown up.

The new version is presented in a delicately rounded 32 mm diameter screwdown case of polished stainless steel set with 52 diamonds, its voluptuous horns merging with the steel bracelet of which the links alternate between a polished and satin finish. The dial is bright with 10 full-cut diamonds. Roman numerals in silver appliqué are at 6 and 12 o’clock, while functions are hours and minutes.

The bracelet is of stainless steel – polished and satin finish – and has a folding clasp which has a double push-button security system.

This very feminine mode from a timeless collection has been stirring passions since its creation in 2009.

A brand-new chronograph from the Maestro collection which was first released in 2011 has been added to the men’s collection.

This latest addition Maestro chronograph has a classic allure, coloured materials and a modern dial design. Arabic numerals set the time.

In a classic style 41 mm case of PVD rose gold plate, it has a power reserve of 38 hours.

Functions are central hour and minute, which are rose gold-plated, bombe small seconds hand at 3 o’clock, while a push-piece at 4 o’clock returns the chronograph to zero; the chrono counters are located at 3 and 9 o’clock on the silver dial at its centre, which has a sunray guilloché decoration. The Arabic numerals are also rose gold plated and the watch has 50 jewels.

The watch features a sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-glare treatment and the case-back is sapphire crystal. The chronograph start/stop and restart push-piece is at 2 o’clock, the 60-second counter at centre and the 30-minute at 9 o’clock.

The watch is set on a classic brown alligatorstyle leather strap with saddle stitching, its buckle of matching rose gold plate on stainless steel. The watch is water-resistant to 5 ATM.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Chrono with a military look A chronograph with a distinct military look, emphasised by combining themes of colours such as olive, khaki and brown with well-defined elements, has been released

by Nautica.

The BFD 105 Chrono is part of the brand’s iconic BFD collection of timepieces, which is a combination of clean design and functionality.

It has a look associated with military gear – clean, clear and distinct.

The Japanese movement has a 60-minute chronograph, split time measurement, date and 24-hour indications. Over-sized hour markers offset contrasting dials, while the three chronograph indicators are positioned for maximum impact.

The watch is set in a 44 mm diameter stainless steel case with a tachymeter on the outer ring and minute markers on the reflector ring. It is water-resistant to 100 m. The straps are available in a new water-resistant PU, featuring a canvas and leather look in brown, black or olive.

Maintaining the brand’s relationship with the sea and sailing, Nautica’s most recent release is a technically robust timepiece from the brand’s Technology Sport collection which introduces the NST 550 Tide Temp Compass.

As its name implies this new timepiece has temperature and time calibrations and

geographical direction in a somewhat untraditional design representing the nextgeneration multi-functional watch. It is a precision timepiece featuring a three-hand movement.

The dial is easy to read, despite its functionality. The calibrations for temperature and tide are aligned in concentric circles from the edge of the dial to the outward bezel.

A fourth hand serves as the indicator for the compass, as well as the temperature and tide indication. The 360º compass is calibrated on the bi-directional turning bezel, which is set in a north position as indicated by the magnetic needle.

Temperature is registered from -20-120º and to 50ºC and -4-124ºF, which the tide scale measures rising and falling, by high and low tides. There is also a date window at 3 o’clock.

Iconic Nautica details include integrated strap colours and signature J-class sail etched on the crown. The watch is water-resistant to 100 m, set in a 47 mm diameter stainless steel case and is available in dark blue or black .

Nautica is part of the Timex Group, which manufactures and markets innovative timepieces and jewellery globally. It is a privately held company with numerous brands in its stable and is one of the largest watchmakers in the world. The Nautical brand was introduced in 1994.

It’s all about guys helping guys do jewellery for girls Black Key Diamonds, a diamond and gemstone broker, also manufactures jewellery and offers various services, such as arranging finance and insurance. “We are a bespoke value-driven service, aimed primarily, but not limited to, guys getting engaged or buying a piece for their loved one,“ explains Gus van der Spek.

By combining youth with experience, Back Key Diamonds has created efficiencies in an age-old industry. “With our dedicated support team, we sift through one of the largest databases of diamonds and gemstones in the world to find the perfect stone. Diamonds are not cheap, so our focus is on value, with a personal touch,” says Van der Spek. “Our ability to source diamonds from all corners of the Earth is our unique selling point. Where others are limited by what they hold in stock and have on loan, we have a whole world at our fingertips. From investment purchases to

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

that once-in-a-lifetime engagement piece, we have the diamond or gemstone for you.”

Combined with who the company believes to be the best manufacturing plant in Africa, it produces pieces that are not only beautiful, but also made with the utmost quality and care. For international orders, it has contacts in most of the large hubs around the world and can manufacture close to the customer and ship to order.

“We see technology as an enabler, something to align our business with a modern era,” says Van der Spek.

Following a process of “teach, then sell”, BKD knows that by giving honest and free advice, it’s better able to service its clients’ needs and find the balance in the 4Cs that match their budget. Through word of mouth, great social media drives and smartly spent marketing budget, the company has managed to establish itself

in a highly competitive market and by keeping its overheads low and using its website as its “shop window,” it’s been able to outprice its retail competitors and bring a product to market that is beautiful at a value-driven price point.

By positioning itself in the suburb of Woodstock, Cape Town, it has tapped into an exciting group of emerging entrepreneurs and business owners. Combining technology with experience, the company has some big ideas up its sleeve and 2014 will see it expand its business to new territories and into innovative and exciting products.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Bold and intriguing – that’s de Grisogono One of the most famous luxury brands of its generation has achieved renown in the last 20 years with both jewellery and watches which are bold and intriguing.

De Grisogono has remained true to his original baroque style, which was inspired by the aesthetics and beauty he experienced during the early years in Florence of Syrian-born Fawaz Gruosi – the city to which he moved from Lebanon at the age of 18.

It was his early exposure to these influences which have inspired his innovative and contemporary jewellery and watches. In 1996 he fulfilled his long-harboured dream of opening a shop under his own name rather than

creating gems for top international jewellers, as he had been doing. His first boutique was in Geneva, where he designed one-of-akind pieces. This was soon followed by three others in prestigious locations

Watch of the Year award winners The European Watch of the Year 2013 awards were recently held at London’s Mayfair Hotel, where the finest watches of the previous year were honoured.

The awards were divided into six categories: Category 1, for a watch priced between £2 500-10 000, was Tudor for a diving watch which was described as a retro modern classic.

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay won on points for finish and design.

Category 2, priced between £2 500-10 000,

was won by Zenith for its timepiece with 430 parts which were assembled by two watchmakers who normally work for the company’s haute horlogerie department.

The award for Category 3, £10 000-25 000, went to a clear winner, Chopard, for a highfrequency piece, the first 8HZ chronograph which was judged the equal of its peers for quality and beauty, but in a class of its own for innovation.

Category 4, between £25 000-100 000, saw

such as Gstaad and London.

His jewellery pieces incorporated black diamonds – a gem inspired by the 190 carat Black Orlov diamond, which fascinated him. He is credited as being the man who initiated the craze for this stone. In fact, his passion for black diamonds and the collections he created became his hallmark.

His first timepiece collection was unveiled in the year 2000 and was an instant success.

Since then he has been a regular exhibitor at Baselworld – this year with a suitably prestigious stand. These collections are renowned for their boldness of case and design, his favourite case shape being based on the square. He introduced ground-breaking complications and innovative designs for ladies' and gents' wristwatches and wrist chronographs, some with bejewelled cases.

Breguet named for the Classique Chronometer 7727, with its remarkable use of magnets inside the movement as a way of adding stability to its performance.

Category 5’s winner was chosen as JaegerLeCoultre for the latest take on the multi-axis tourbillon, judged a breathtaking piece of haute horlogerie which stunned the jury. It is named Duometre a Spherotourbillon.

The beauty of Parmigiani’s dressy ladies' watch which is suitable for any occasion, Fleurier Tonda 1950 Set, won Category 6 for its free-sprung balance and micro rotor.

Homage to a landmark of the past Watch brand Cuervo y Sobrinos is best described as a Swiss brand with a Latin soul and it recently revived a landmark luxury model from the past.

The historic Flameante is a tribute to the design of 1905 with a fine guilloché dial and movement finishes, a Côte de Geneve pattern on the plate and bridges and blued screws, as well as the “Testimony of Style” since 1882, the year of the brand’s foundation which is engraved around the movement. All of these features are visible through the sapphire crystal.

Set in a 40 mm diameter classically designed case of pink gold, this hand-wound timepiece, which reflects refinement and elegance, has small seconds at 6 o’clock. The ETA movement has 17 jewels, a 42-hour power reserve and the sapphire crystal glass and case-back, the former cambered with anti-reflective coating.

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The dial is white guilloche and has gold-tinted appliqué hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the brand logo “cys” at 12 o’clock and the hands enhanced with superluminova. The strap is light brown alligator with an 18ct pink gold buckle. The watch is water-resistant to 30 m.

Brand designs are in general sober, traditional with state-of-the-art watchmaking expertise, and are often Art Deco inspired.

Headquarters are on the shores of Lake Lugano (Switzerland).

Origins were in Havana in 1882, hence the Latin flair, a city known then as the “Pearl of the Caribbean” which at the end of the 19th century became the centre for good living and luxury. It attracted not only adventurers and businessmen, but also intellectuals and high society. Spectacular homes, lavish hotels, casinos and gardens lent an atmos-

phere of glamour and sophistication.

Originally a family business which commenced with a jewellery and watchmaking shop, in less than half a century the quality of products and the brand’s Latin spirit made it famous. But they decided to expand its production network and opened centres in Europe, which eventually included Switzerland, where the company founded its own factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

MARKETPLACE

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P.O Box 6089, Dunswart,1508 Phone: +27 (0)11 841 1903, Fax: +27 (0)86 564 8265 tony.eliott@heraeus.com

Send your email address to subscriptions@isikhova.co.za with “Biz-News” in the subject line, or contact us on 011 883 4627.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013

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Leading SOUTH AFRICA’S

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LITTLE GEMS

ALTHOUGH NOT AS PREVALENT AS PLATINUM, gold or steel in current jewellery-related objects, titanium and its many alloys, in combination with the precious metals, has become an option for modern designers. Its density and corrosion-resistance make it practical for watch cases. The more widely used material – in jewellery and watches, in particular – stainless steel has a lower strength unless it is forged. As an element, titanium has the chemical symbol TI. But its discovery is by no means recent: it has a history dating back to 1791 when it was discovered in Cornwall, Great Britain, by an amateur geologist, William Gregor, who named it after the Titans of Greek mythology. It did not match the properties of other known elements and occurs with a number of other mineral deposits, always bonded to other elements in nature. It is the most abundant mineral in the Earth’s crust and

Tough titanium

significant deposits exist in Western Australia, Canada, China, India, Mozambique, New Zealand, Norway, Ukraine and South Africa.

At the same time as Gregor’s discovery, in 1785 a Prussian chemist named Martin-Heinrich Klaproth sourced a similar product in a village in Hungary (now Slovakia) which he could not identify.

Pure titanium (99,9%) was first prepared in 1910 and named the Hunter process after its preparation by Mathew Hunter. This process was refined eight years later and became known as the Kroll process, named after its inventor, which name is still used today for commercial production.

The processes required to extract TI from its various ores are laborious and costly and involve four major steps: reduction into a porous form known as sponge, melting this, then adding a master alloy to form an ingot which is finally converted into general mill products.

In the 1950s and 1960s the Soviet Union pioneered the use of TI in military and submarine applications as part of the programmes related to the Cold War. Almost simultaneously the USA's Department of Defence realised its strategic importance and supported early efforts to commercialise the product. It became a strategic metal which was utilised exhaustively for military and aviation purposes, particularly in highperformance jets.

Titanium has become popular as a jewellery material because of its unique properties, which include being non-toxic to the human body. Its use is a modern-

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Because of its durability and other properties such as low density, ductile quality and lustrous appearance, titanium has become popular for designer jewellery and high-end watches. It is lightweight, dent- and corrosion-resistant, non-allergenic and quite tough. It can be often be found in combination with other metals and has a variety of jewellery applications. Alice Weil traces its history and rise to popularity in the present day. day phenomenon. The cost of jewellery in this metal can be high, but could be less than other jewellery materials like precious metals – even silver – and can vary. For example, “commercially pure” (99,2%) or “aircraft grade” (90%) titanium. It is a modern phenomenon. Since 2000 the availability of such rings has become large-scale and they are often crafted with other materials including gemstones, but are usually carried in lower-priced stores.

TI products are popular with swimmers either in the ocean or chlorinated pools, in contrast to traditional jewellery materials such as brass, silver and bronze. But being comparable with steel in resistance to sawing, these items can be difficult to cut off if necessary.

Colour can be created through a process of anodisation, but the colour that results can depend on the thickness of the oxide coating. The colours are simply different wavelengths of light reflected

from the surface of the oxide layer and light reflected from the surface below. The metal can be alloyed, the most common alloys being aluminium, vanadium, iron and copper. For example, “aircraft grade” used for rings is the most common composition which consists of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium.

Two or more metals combined on one ring are known as “inlays,” in which the two metals are side by side on the object’s surface. This could take the form of a strip of gold running through the middle of a titanium ring or a similar method used on a watch case.

Titanium is an excellent choice for watch cases, particularly for sports models – it is light, durable and does not dent due to its high strength-to-weight ratio. Brands such as Breitling, Seiko and Citizen and even fashion brand GC, to mention but a few, have all released designs which use titanium in the case design.

Although it has been around for the past two centuries, titanium is sometimes referred to as “the space-age material.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2013