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SA Mint reopens Coin World Museum Nightmare on Insurance Street Mondays with Alice Glitz and glamour at Jewellex cocktail function
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African Odyssey
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Why buy local if I can source cheaper overseas? A geological phenomenon
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Early edition
Sunday – 7 October 2018
STAND OF THE YEAR This year’s Jewellex Africa Stand of the Year overall winner was awarded to Metal Concentrators (Stand Number E5) while Versitrade (Stand Number E6) was awarded the Standard Package winner. Rowan Jacobson, Chairman of the Jewellex Africa committee, announced the winners at the show.
Published daily
A round table discussion on the subject of synthetic diamonds vs natural diamonds took place at 14h00 yesterday at the Metcon coffee shop. Ernie Blom of Blom Diamonds and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C and Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion while Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and Communications and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator.
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Sterling Silver
SHOWROOM BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Parkhurst Johannesburg • Juanita Duncan 073 168 3761 • Zeynep Gursesler 081 842 2572 Email address: zeju.leggings@gmail.com • Instagram: zeju.jewellery All our jewellery is Sterling Silver with the options of Rose Gold Plated, Yellow Gold Plated, Black Rhodium Plated or simply leave it Silver.
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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za
9. NEWS
Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: trivern@isikhova.co.za
• Entries for 2019 PPC Imaginarium awards now open
19. PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES The latest technologies available to assist the local jewellery trade
• South African Mint reopens Coin World Museum after extensive renovations
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
• LVMH jewellery and watch revenue up
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk
• New mineral named in honour of gemmology pioneer • Petra boss steps down amid US$203 million loss
Designer: Mirah Bradt and Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za
14. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2018
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
New faces among the old
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
20. JEWELLERY DESIGN The tradition of innovation
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
23. IN-DEPTH
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za
Mondays with Alice
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za
24. RETAILING
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Going above and beyond
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
17. RETAIL CORNER
27. SCENE AROUND
Nightmare on Insurance Street
Glitz and glamour at Jewellex cocktail function
28. LITTLE GEMS
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
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In praise of platinum
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Jewellery News NOVEMBER 2018
SA
On the cover
B.Y.L Diamonds is one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery wholesalers. It's inventory
consists of certified loose diamonds and tanzanite, calibrated round diamonds and fancy shape diamonds, patent criss-cut and meteor-cut, investment stones, majestic patent SA Mint reopens Coin World Museum Nightmare on insurance street Mondays with Alice Glitz and glamour at Jewellex cocktail function
diamond jewellery, designer diamond jewellery, certified tanzanite jewellery, a platinum collection and the B.Y.L collection. To set up an appointment with one of its reps in your area or if you would like to receive its stocklist, contact B.Y.L Diamonds on tel: (021) 419-2000 / 060-801-4954 or e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
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NEWS
ENTRIES FOR 2019 PPC IMAGINARIUM AWARDS NOW OPEN Entries for the 2019 PPC Imaginarium Awards in SA and Zimbabwe are now open. The prestigious competition invites creatives to test their skills and produce innovative works using Portland cement-based concrete. Entrants
stand to win their share of publicity, mentorship opportunities and over R500 000 in cash prizes. Launched by the Innovation Department of renowned cement company PPC Ltd, the annual PPC Imaginarium Awards give emerging creatives the chance to showcase their talent and creative thinking across the competition’s six categories: film, fashion, jewellery, sculpture, architecture and industrial design. The competition is the most supportive of its kind in SA and has seen many of its past entrants and finalists go on to become recognised in the art and business community. Each category winner will receive R50 000, while the runner-up will receive R20 000. From the category winners, judges also choose an overall winner, who receives R100 000 over and above the prize for his/her category. Artists and designers may enter in one or more categories, provided each work is original, and may also enter even if they have previously entered or won in the competition. The PPC Imaginarium Award for architecture is announced at a separate prize-giving and is open to all architecture schools in southern Africa. The winner is seen as the top design student in the subcontinent currently registered
for a degree in architecture. The awards are open to artists, designers and architecture students living in SA and Zimbabwe – including residency-holders and foreign students with study permits living in both countries. In order to qualify, entrants may not be established professionally in their respective industries. The competition recently opened its doors to Zimbabwe, with the first PPC Imaginarium Awards taking place in that country in 2017/2018. Category winners and runners-up are announced separately in each country, with the exception of architecture. Entry registrations must be submitted online via: www.ppcimaginarium.co.za. The closing date for entries is 30 November 2018.
NEWS
NEW MINERAL NAMED IN HONOUR OF GEMMOLOGY PIONEER Researchers at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), in collaboration with researchers at the University of Padova, recently discovered crowningshieldite, a new mineral named in honour of G Robert Crowningshield, a pioneering figure in gemmological research for more than 50 years at GIA. Crowningshieldite was discovered as an altered inclusion in two diamonds from the Letseng mine in Lesotho. GIA research scientist Dr Evan M Smith publicly announced this new mineral at GIA’s annual research meeting and presented it at GIA’s International Gemological Symposium, held on 7-9 October in Carlsbad, California. Crowningshieldite was accepted as a mineral on 18 September by the International Mineralog-
ical Association. Smith and his team of researchers discovered the mineral while examining inclusions in CLIPPIR diamonds – a variety of type IIa diamond that forms at significantly greater depths than most diamonds. Crowningshieldite is a nickel sulphide mineral with a hexagonal crystal structure and can be regarded as the high-temperature polymorph of the mineral millerite. It is also the naturally occurring analogue to the synthetic compound known as α-NiS. The mineral is believed to have formed by alteration or chemical modification of originally metallic, polyphasic inclusions. These iron and nickel-rich metallic inclusions are the most prevalent type of inclusion found in CLIPPIR diamonds. “Discoveries such as this propel our understanding of diamonds and the earth forward; this is why research is the cornerstone of GIA’s mission,” says Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory & Research Officer. “I can think of no better way to honour Crowningshield’s legacy.” G Robert Crowningshield took GIA and
the young science of gemmology to new scientific heights. His first breakthrough came in 1956, when he discovered and documented the spectroscopic feature characterising yellow irradiated diamonds. In 1971, he wrote the first report on gem-quality, laboratory-grown diamonds. The observations he described in that article about the identification criteria of laboratory-grown stones, such as colour zoning, metallic inclusions and uneven patterns of UV fluorescence, are still used today for diamond identification. Crowningshield is also recognised for reporting on many discoveries about pearls and coloured stones. His 1983 landmark article described a naming convention for orange-pink “padparadscha” sapphires and he published more than 1 000 brief observations in the regular Lab Notes column – which he originated in 1957 – of Gems & Gemology, GIA’s quarterly professional journal. A specimen of the new mineral will be housed in GIA’s museum collection at the institute’s headquarters in Carlsbad.
LVMH JEWELLERY AND WATCH REVENUE UP LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton recently announced that it saw a rise in jewellery and watch sales in the third quarter, led by a strong performance from its Bvlgari brand. Revenue for the category increased 10% to US$1,2 billion for the three months ending 30 September.
Bvlgari’s sales growth was led by its Serpenti, Diva, B.Zero1, Lvcea and Octo lines, as well as the launch of its new high-end jewellery label, Wild Pop. Sales at Chaumet and Fred also progressed well. Watch brand TAG Heuer performed strongly, as did Hublot, which opened its first standalone boutique in London during the quarter.
In the first nine months of the year, revenue from jewellery and watches rose 14% to US$3,47 billion. Group sales for the third quarter – including jewellery, wines and spirits, fashion and cosmetics – grew 10% to US$13,07 billion. – Rapaport
PETRA BOSS STEPS DOWN AMID US$203 MILLION LOSS Petra Diamonds CEO Johan Dippenaar will leave the company, following its recording of a huge loss during the fiscal year. Petra reported a net loss of US$203,1 million for the period ending 30 June, as opposed to a profit of US$20,7 million the year before. This was due to the combination of an impairment charge – a permanent reduction in the value of an asset – on its Koffiefontein mine and a loss stemming from the ceasing of operations and sale of its Kimberley asset. That divestment was part of an effort to raise money to pay off debt. “Learning from past challenges, the group’s focus is to regain investor confidence by the continued optimisation of operations, thereby delivering consistent production output with efficient operating and capital expenditure,” says Dippenaar. The miner is currently in the middle of a succession plan that includes a review of its board, committee and senior management
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structures. Dippenaar will leave as part of this plan once the Nomination Committee has found a successor. “Johan has led Petra through a long period of significant growth, taking the company’s annual production from approximately 175 000ct [in fiscal 2006] to 4,6 million carats [in fiscal 2018], and establishing it as a leading independent diamond producer,” says Petra Chairman Adonis Pouroulis. Revenue at Petra increased 25% to US$495,3 million for the year. Production rose 19% to 3,8 million carats. The miner realised sales of US$78 million from its September tender, which occurred after the end of the second half, as prices fell 5% on a like-forlike basis compared with the same period last year. Petra plans to hold six more tenders in the 2019 fiscal year. Petra operates the Cullinan, Finsch and Koffiefontein mines in SA, as well as the Williamson mine in Tanzania. – Rapaport
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
SA MINT REOPENS COIN WORLD MUSEUM AFTER EXTENSIVE RENOVATIONS The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank (SARB), has reopened the doors of its museum and retail store following almost four months of extensive renovations. The SA Mint had recently embarked on a major revamp of its museum and retail store at the Old Johannesburg Road, Centurion site. The revamped visual impression is sleek and modern, with the interiors rich in artefacts and information about the world of numismatics. The museum’s two distinct themes, circulation coins and collectables, recreate South African history from the perspective of coins. It offers visitors a unique opportunity to become familiar with the history of circulation coins from the earliest times up to the present day and, at the same time, be taken on the journey from metallurgy to money. They are greeted at the entrance by a large metal coil, rolled sheets from which blanks are actually produced for the circulation coins. Through this new display to the old pantograph, a device used in the manufacture of dies, the museum showcases via illustrations the meticulous and creative process behind minting circulation coins. Today, SA has over 26 billion coins in circulation. The SA Mint is also one of the world’s top exporting mints and one of the proud displays is a map that showcases the countries to which it has either previously supplied or is still supplying coins. The museum also features historical artefacts whict tell the story of the humble beginnings of African currency and coins – from Katanga crosses and beads to spear points, Spanish silver reales, copper doits, silver ducatoons, Japanese koban, Russian roubles and several other coins accepted as legal tender. A veritable treasure trove, the exhibits at the museum also include ancient coins dating back to the 1200s and 1600s which were discovered along the coast of Eastern Cape. The find is rare, as there is no recorded history of coin usage in SA up until the 1650s. “The museum is a wonderful educational opportunity and I encourage everyone – from parents and children to institutions and tourists – to explore its collection to learn about our fascinating tryst with money, one that started with bartering,” says Tumi Tsehlo, Managing Director of the SA Mint. “The exhibits can’t be seen anywhere in the country but at the coin museum. The interior’s more than likely to pique the interest of children and slow them down so that they can learn about the many fun facts of coins, something even Google might not be able to provide.” One of the permanent displays includes the “Oom Paul” Minting Press, named after the then President Paul Kruger, leader of the ZuidAfrikaansche Republiek (ZAR). One of the oldest presses in the world, it was built in 1891 and ordered by Kruger for use in the first mint established in Pretoria in 1892. “Oom Paul” was originally steamoperated, though modifications over the years have enabled it to work off electricity and visitors can still see it in action to date. “Coins shine a light on history, so it’s our vision to use them to tell the story of SA and the SA Mint. From the discovery of gold in the 1800s to the country’s first black President, the mint’s coins have documented the ages like a true historian,” adds Tsehlo. “The collection will provide unique insights into the influences on our country’s present-day monetary system.” The refurbished museum also features the design pieces commissioned for the 50th anniversary celebration of the Krugerrand.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
MARKETS
Business barometer SEPTEMBER 2018 VS SEPTEMBER 2017
A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
DIAMOND DEALERS
RETAILERS
0% BETTER
100% BETTER
0%
0% % SAME
0%
0%
100%
Foot traffic
WORSE
General sales compared with last year this time
General sales compared with last year this time
0,5ct
BETTER
General sales compared with last year this time
% SAME
0%
% SAME
WORSE
Best-selling diamond size BETTER
% SAME
100%
WHOLESALERS
WORSE
Watch sales
50%
0% 50% WORSE
0% BETTER
Breakdown of retail sales
0% % SAME
100% WORSE
bridal
fine jewellery
watches
17%
74%
7%
MANUFACTURERS
66,6% BETTER
0% % SAME
33.3%
(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council
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33,3% BETTER
33,3% BETTER
66,6%
33,3%
% SAME
% SAME
0%
33.3%
WORSE
WORSE
Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
WORSE
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
ONLY A SPACE FEW S STIL L AVAILA BLE!
THE JEWELLERY BIZ-NEWS
DESK CALENDAR 2019 TO BOOK YOUR SPACE CONTACT: IAN STARNES Mobile: 082 052 8428 Email: ian@isikhova.co.za TRIVERN GOODOON Mobile: 072 837 4962 Email: trivern@isikhova.co.za
WE HAVE MOVED! Suite 313 – Third Floor 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg Contact details Office: 011 023 6516 Cell: 0649541204 / 082 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za
JEWELLEX AFRICA
New faces among the old Although smaller than in previous years, Jewellex 2018 had ample glitz and glamour, as befits a jewellery show where exhibitors show their mettle. Up and coming new companies and gold and diamond jewellery featured strongly. THE BAUBLES AND BEADS OF RECENT YEARS were absent and the event retained its image as a real jewellery show. The loss of watch distributors, with only a few participating, is regrettable, but unfortunately nothing ever stays the same. An enlarged coffee shop sponsored by Metal Concentrators was a well-positioned focal point and meeting place. The opening hours on Saturday were, as usual, quiet. However, by the afternoon, things warmed up and, as in previous years, on the Sunday and Monday the number of visitors grew immensely and there was a definite buzz. The sight of a racing car at the Bell & Ross stand might have seemed incongruous, but Brand Manager Yushaa Desai explained that it has two passions: watches and sports cars. The car in question was a Bell & Ross-branded Japanese Nissan GTI, which fitted in nicely with the overall exciting, yet stylish look of the watch brand’s stand. There was certainly no shortage of diamond jewellery – mostly set in white gold, perhaps because it is less conspicuous than yellow gold. Protea Diamonds showed a collection of diamond bracelets, earrings and rings in this metal. There were also many collections in silver, which is currently enjoying popularity. Anna B
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Jewellery showed a wide range in sterling silver which included necklaces, earrings and rings, as well as pieces in stainless steel. Something Special relaunched its Little Miss Silver range which included bracelets, rings and even earrings and is exclusive to this company. These items make ideal christening gifts. Memi Jewellery, which has taken the next step in becoming a recognised, global, personalised jewellery brand by launching its latest
campaign, together with a consumer website, showcased its latest pieces. “We don’t want to be just another jewellery brand – we want to stand out,” said Gary Nathan, CEO of OroAfrica, creator of Memi Jewellery. “We want to give women the ability to express themselves through the jewellery they wear. Our pieces aren’t just beautiful accessories; rather, each item is a woman’s story, symbolising her feelings, dreams, hopes and memories – everything encompassed in her journey.” Memi first launched in SA in 2015, but has since expanded to deliver in the UK, Australia, Europe, the USA and other markets. “We noticed that personalised jewellery is very much part of a general trend where consumers are no longer satisfied with the standard offering, wanting to play a role in the creation of something unique and meaningful,” added Nathan. After successfully exhibiting at a trade show in Australia, Memi signed up over 100 retailers in two days. Fifty retailers have also signed up in the UK and a further 150 in SA. B.Y.L Diamonds featured its newly-launched B.Y.L collection, as well as a variety of fine jewellery, including majestic patent diamond jewellery, designer diamond jewellery, certified tanzanite jewellery and platinum jewellery. Versitrade, which won this year’s Standard Package Award, did some-
Jewellex Africa 2018 certainly did not lack sophistication and glamour and the overall mood of its visitors and exhibitors was positive and upbeat. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
JEWELLEX AFRICA
thing a little different this year with its “jars of happiness”. “Many people are permanently focused on the negative things in our industry, our country and even our lives, and hardly ever see or acknowledge the positives,” said Wenda Currie, co-owner of the company. “A ‘jar of happiness’ is simply a jar with a notepad and paper so that people can write down good things that happen to them or that make them smile. They then fold the paper and put it in the jar. On days that aren’t so great, they simply reach in the jar and pull out a happy memory.” Versitrade had these jars on its stand and invited visitors and exhibitors to write down what makes them happy. These were given to Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA, as well as the other show organisers to thank them for putting together the event. For Metal Concentrators, which was awarded this year’s Stand of the Year, it was important for visitors to know the ample benefits of working with the company. For manufacturing jewellers who produce their own products, the company also made available information about its partnership with Anglo American Platinum, in terms of which a finance scheme was facilitated that will significantly reduce the working capital requirements of such a business. With fewer stands to visit, Adam Fulat of AA Watch Distributors said he found that visitors spent more time at them. He also believes that this year’s later date was beneficial, as it was closer to the peak Christmas shopping period and retailers were more inclined to place orders than they had been during earlier
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
dates of the show. His own stand was extremely busy on both the Saturday and Sunday. This year’s show also featured a number of exciting educational talks at the Metcon coffee shop and a number of product demonstrations at various stands. Vibrant and dynamic international facilitator and speaker Nigel Smith discussed advanced selling and negotiation, incorporating behavioural models, while Leon Marinus, acclaimed Internet marketer and international speaker, shared the secrets of business growth and talked about social media and digital marketing. A lively round-table discussion about synthetic vs natural diamonds also took place at the Metcon coffee shop, led by Blom Diamonds’ Ernie Blom, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C, who is Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion. Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator. Sunday saw the launch of Alice Weil’s biography, My Notebook and Camera, in honour of her 40th year with SA Jewellery News. The event attracted a crowd of over 100 at the Metcon coffee shop.
This year’s Jewellex also saw a number of exciting competitions over the three days. The winner of the R10 000 SA Jewellery News advertising package was Dalip Rajcomar from Golden Jewellers, while Allan Hayward, owner of the Hayward Jewellery Group, won the main prize of the show – R100 000, which he can spend at any Jewellex exhibitor of his choice. “Although the show was slightly smaller this year with a few less exhibitors, the ambiance was incredible and there seemed to be a buzz,” says Lloyd. “Between the business dealings, Jewellex offered many other activities such as networking opportunities, musical entertainment and gin tastings. I’m proud of what we achieved this year and look forward to a bigger and even better show in 2019.” Jewellex Africa 2018 certainly did not lack sophistication and glamour and the overall mood of its visitors and exhibitors was positive and upbeat. Dates for Jewellex Africa 2019 have not yet been announced.
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RETAIL CORNER
Nightmare on Insurance Street A monthly column written by industry expert Dr Petré Prins. Scene 1 LAST YEAR OVER CHRISTmas, the McCarthys from Constantia, Cape Town and Bruno, their terrier, were holidaying in Plettenberg Bay. Their home had been locked and the alarm set. In their driveway, newspapers piled up – and someone noticed. On 26 December, just after midnight, ADT received a distress signal from their house. A security guard circled the residence, found nothing suspicious and left. On their return, the McCarthys found their home ransacked and the safe laser-drilled. They had lost a fortune: Krugerrands, share certificates and a beautiful collection of antique and modern jewellery. Scene 2 Their insurer replaced the Krugerrands and sent the McCarthys to an obscure office in Greenpoint, where they could select jewellery to the value of the settlement amount. Great was their disappointment, however, when they realised that their new, mass-produced jewellery was inferior to what they had had. Scriptwriter’s commentary It is understandable that insurers prefer to replace jewellery at a BBBEE-accredited
supplier (for points on their BBBEE scorecard), rather than allowing their clients to replace at a jeweller they know and trust. Our courts rule that it is permissible to do so, provided that: • it is fair to do so. • the insurer, before the insurance contract was signed or renewed, properly informed the client that jewellery would be replaced by a supplier chosen by the insurer. • the replacement item is reasonably similar to the item it replaces. Director’s response Firstly, I think it is unfair (and possibly even unconstitutional) that clients should have no say in who replaces their jewellery. Secondly, very few clients are made aware of a clause, hidden somewhere in a lengthy insurance contract, stating that jewellery will be replaced at a supplier chosen by the insurer. These suppliers may offer large discounts to the insurer and normally ask the client to select from a catalogue of imported, mass-produced jewellery. This is well and good if the client lost a mass-produced item. However, when a unique, handmade item or a family heirloom is lost, the client is invariably unhappy with the replacement. Some clients may be grateful to have some jewellery replaced, while others feel done-in and complain bitterly about the quality of the items they have to accept. If you had a Mercedes-Benz, would you be happy to receive a little entry-level runaround in its place? Surely not – so why are our clients forced to accept imported jewellery of
a lesser standard than what they had insured? This practice may border on misrepresentation and should be tested at the Ombudsman for Short-Term Insurance. Producer’s take This is a sad situation for our retail and goldsmith industry. The jeweller who originally supplied the jewellery loses a client, while said unhappy client is put off re-purchasimg jewellery. The local goldsmith, already one of a dying breed, is thus deprived of work. If the insurer opts for a cash payment, the lost jewellery is seldom replaced, so the retailer, manufacturer and insurer all lose business. Retail jewellers know best what their clients had. After all, they issued a valuation certificate for the item, which the insurer needs in order to insure it. However, retailers are reluctant to spend time preparing a replacement quotation, as they will not get the replacement order from the insurer. The client thus has to accept the opinion and quotation from their insurer’s supplier, who has no idea of the quality of the items that were lost, resulting in an unhappy client. Wrap-up: If our clients cannot replace their jewellery at a supplier of their choice, we all lose. Post-production note: The above hinges on the ability of the retail jeweller to issue professional and ethically priced valuations – a theme to be addressed in SA Jewellery News' December 2018 issue.
Very few clients are made aware of a clause, hidden somewhere in a lengthy insurance contract, stating that jewellery will be replaced at a supplier chosen by the insurer. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
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PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES
Top tech tools at Jewellex Africa Jewellex Africa 2018 showcased some of the latest technologies available to assist the local jewellery trade with manufacturing, cost-effectiveness, quality, precision and time management. Engraving and cutting all types of precious and semiprecious metals Demonstrated by Orotig specialists at the Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies stand at this year’s Jewellex was the Italian-made Orotig laser range. “The lasermarker is a tool which has become almost indispensable in both the jewellery and industrial sectors,” says Tennille Hoge of Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies. “It’s particularly useful for the marking of texts, logos, designs and graphic patterns. From serial numbering to photo engraving, the laser-marker is perfect for customising metallic objects or precious alloys. This model reaches new levels of quality and reduces working time significantly.” Main features of the new laser-marker series include an integrated video camera which facilitates viewing of the lasermarking area in order to position pieces better and ensure total control during the marking phase. An adjustable Z-axis facilitates the focusing of pieces in the marking area, thanks to the aid of two
high-clarity pilot diode lasers. The laser is powerful enough to cut up to 1,8 mm, depending on the model wattage. The software allows the user to import images, models, logos and texts from a broad range of files with different extensions. Curved surfaces are also no problem, thanks to the rotary axis device which can be fitted and is ideal for the inside or outside of rings and bangles. Orotig machines are perfect for engraving and cutting all types of precious and semiprecious metals, such platinum, gold and silver or base metals such as brass and copper. Steel and titanium can be marked or engraved with great detail.
At the forefront of technology On display at the Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies stand was the more affordable PUK C140 made by Lampert Germany. All PUK products are developed by goldsmiths for goldsmiths. Welding on findings, loops and wires, adding metal easily, welding adjacent to stones, welding silver, attaching workpieces prior to soldering and much more – anything is possible with the PUK. It is also ideal for welding in the immediate vicinity of heat-sensitive areas, with superior welding characteristics which are consistently reproducible, yielding high-quality results on all suitable materials. A further benefit of the compact size is that it fits into any workshop at a very low cost of consumer materials, with the added advantage of being low on gas consumption. It also comes with maintenance-free technology.
Leading resin 3D printer of 2018 On display at the Digital Wax stand at this year’s show was the Form 2 3D HD resin printer from Formlabs. This reliable, professional, high-quality stereolithography (SLA) 3D printer is a workhorse that delivers spectacular results, consistently. The Form 2 comes pre-assembled and, like most SLA 3D printers, has a large seethrough orange plastic hood that keeps its resin tank sheltered during a print job.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
Its Preform software has auto-generated support and STL repair and bullion union software is included. Out of the box, the user simply needs to open the hood, install the included print platform, resin tank (which is directly under the print platform) and resin cartridge; the printer is now complete. The Form 2 is well-designed and all of its parts snap into place effortlessly. During a print job, the printer automatically
detects the type of resin and draws it from the cartridge to fill the resin tank before the print platform lowers itself into the tank as the base for the resin to adhere to. The printer includes one print platform, one resin tank and one resin cartridge. The Form 2 is easy to set up and maintain, features great interplay of hard- and software, is reliable with predictable results and is remarkably silent during printing.
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JEWELLERY DESIGN
(Left): This year’s overall winning piece by Nkosinathi Mhlongo from Design @ 50. (Above): The first runner-up was awarded to Nicole Henderson from Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project.
JCSA Collection Award Design Competition winner announced Jewellex Africa 2018 showcased some of the latest technologies available to assist the local jewellery trade with manufacturing, cost-effectiveness, quality, precision and time management. “RETRO JEWELLERY” WAS CHOSEN AS this year’s theme. “Retro jewellery refers to pieces created in the 1940s and ’50s – a period during which jewellery designers were largely influenced by the changes accompanying World War II,” explains Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA). “Big, exaggerated, ostentatious and bold pieces are classic examples of this era. Does it twinkle? Does it jangle? Does it sparkle? Then it’s quite likely that it’s a retro piece. ‘The bigger, the better’ may as well have been the designers’ motto!” This year’s overall winner was Nkosinathi Mhlongo from Design @ 50, who received a trophy of excellence (sponsored by the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project), 1 kg of fine silver to the value of R7 000 (sponsored by Cape Precious Metals), a jewellers’ bench toolkit with manufacturing-specific tools to the value of R7 000 (sponsored by Metal Concentrators), 3 000 mm3 of Ultra-High-Resolution 3D wax printing (sponsored by The Jewellery Hub) and an
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educational single-user licence of Rhino v6 for Windows, together with a 12-month subscription to Lynda.com for Rhino tutorials (sponsored by Simply Rhino and Chandler’s Manufacturing).
(Above): The second runner-up was awarded to Hunadi Tlomatsana from Design @ 50.
The first runner-up was Nicole Henderson of the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project, who received 500 g of fine silver valued at R3 500, a jeweller’s bench toolkit with manufacturing-specific tools to the value
of R5 000 and 2 000 mm3 of Ultra-HighResolution 3D wax printing. The second runner-up was Hunadi Tlomatsana, also from Design @ 50, who received 500 g of fine silver valued at R3 500, a jeweller’s bench toolkit with manufacturing-specific tools to the value of R3 000 and 1 000 mm3 of Ultra-HighResolution 3D wax printing. Mhlongo, Henderson and Tlomatsana also each received free membership of the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA for one year and will have free access to the JCSA trade test certificate. This year’s finalists were Savannah Male, Sibusiso Ndongeni, Rudi Campbell, Tshegofatso Makgatho, Charmaine Kgoale, Londiwe Dladla and Phindile Kotane, who each received a certificate from the JCSA. The awards ceremony was held at Jewellex Africa 2018 at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg and was presented by Dave Newman, Chairman of the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
“To all our 2018 exhibitors and visitors to the show, thank you for all your support.” – Lorna Lloyd, CEO - Jewellery Council of SA
Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex
U O Y 19 ! E 20 E S N I
IN DEPTH
MONDAYS WILL NEVER BE QUITE THE SAME. Through Alice, I was permitted a glimpse into a galaxy of the hitherto unknown. Together, we departed from the confines of the transient world into a fairytale time-warp of bygone eras. A theatre redolent of exotic jewellery, objects of desire, timepieces of complication and personalities of character. A world in which one woman forged relationships with an elite cast of dignitaries, senior executives, visionaries, designers and masters of their craft. And along her event-filled journey, she accumulated extraordinary experiences and bonded with many who invariably became treasured friends. That I was permitted to record this magnificent story, on the eve of her 100th birthday, was both an honour and a profound learning experience. We met every Monday. It was a ritual to which we steadfastly adhered, necessitated by Alice’s propensity for preparation and order. Precisely at 10.30am, she greeted me at the front door of her Illovo, Johannesburg, townhouse immaculately dressed and made up. I quickly established that she had an extensive selection of designer shoes, collected in Europe during her many decades of travel. I always made a point of commenting on them and she delighted in recounting the circumstances and cities in which they had been purchased. Our earlier conversations were conducted in her comfortable lounge overlooking the garden she so meticulously tended. I asked her questions and she responded with detailed answers, embellished with accurate descriptions. As we travelled further along her life’s journey, she would remember something else that needed to be included and often, she would elaborate on a story we had spoken about previously. Then, as we progressed into the latter stages of the journey, Alice invited me into her study next to the lounge. It was a treasure trove of eclectic memorabilia, framed pictures and certificates, photograph albums and catalogues of jewellery and watches from every major designer in the world. Here she would ask me to search through low cupboards, often on my hands and knees, to extract photo albums, looking for a particular picture she knew she had tak-
Mondays with Alice
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
Michael Pryke wrote and brought to life a remarkable story honouring an icon in the jewellery and diamond industry. He and Alice Weil met every Monday at her house, where she shared her extraordinary story with him. en to corroborate a particular incident. What impressed me most was her remarkable recall of incidents, plus specific details relating to events that had occurred in the distant past. I meticulously recorded each of them. One of the difficulties, when transcribing the story, was fitting incidents into the timeline. Frequently, we had to re-examine events so that we could slot them into the correct chronological sequence. But always, the details and descriptions were as fresh in her mind as if they had occurred the week before. We enveloped ourselves in fascinating conversations while we explored her remarkable experiences, spanning two lengthy careers during a century of adventure. And as we revelled in this fascinating story, another unexpected dynamic developed: we started talking about the meaning of life. In
addition to her personal story, we spoke about younger generations, changing morals, ageing and its impact, the importance of relationships, love and loss… and, inevitably, the future. Alice reminded me of the essential role of purpose and the extent to which it drives people to persevere, even in the face of adversity. She spoke about maintaining a constant interest in the world, the people around us and the business in which we are involved. And I learnt how she maintains a keen awareness of the current environment from the youth – her grandchildren and great-grandchildren. But always, these lessons were couched within the main theme of our conversations – her remarkable life. Remaining aware of the future’s uncertainty, Alice is deeply content. She cherishes her universe of memories and accumulated experiences, reliving the escapades of a woman who made an indelible impression in a man’s world. She has certainly made an unforgettable impression in mine! I shall greatly miss my Mondays with Alice.
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RETAILING
Going above and beyond Customer service is one of the biggest drivers of sales and loyalty, yet many merchants underestimate just how powerful it can be. There are a number of things that businesses can do in order to improve their customer service, such as hiring the right people, ensuring that everyone receives customer service training and empowering employees to keep customers happy. “BUSINESSES MUST STRIVE to provide superb customer support and make sure that they and everyone else in their team are willing to go above and beyond for customers,” says Higor Torchia, Country Manager for software firm Vend in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Vend is in the process of growing and extending its growth into SA. Torchia shares a few tips for providing exceptional shopper support in-store: Start by hiring the right people When it comes to recruiting for customer service roles, you are better off hiring for attitude and training for skills. Some of the world’s best companies recognise this. Action steps: When hiring associates, consider focusing on their attitude first. Skills and experience are important, but as long as someone is trainable and has a natural service-based disposition, they will perform better than a skilled employee who does not have the right attitude. Be smart about how you delegate customer service tasks Your associates will not be able to serve customers properly if they are too busy doing administrative work or restocking shelves. If it makes sense for your business, change the way you delegate tasks in-store. For example, instead of training everyone to do a multitude of tasks, consider letting people specialise in specific jobs (i.e serving customers, fixing merchandise, etc). Action steps: Are your employees juggling multiple jobs, or do they specialise in certain
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tasks? If it is the former, try testing task delegation practices. You may find that when you have employees whose sole job is to assist shoppers, your customer service metrics (and sales) will improve. Encourage empathy A dose of empathy can instantly take your customer service practices to new heights. In many cases, customers simply want to feel that they are being heard, acknowledged and understood. In other words, they want to feel that you know what they are going through. While it is important that you address whatever issues they are experiencing, empathy is almost always the first thing they need from a customer service representative. Action steps: Encourage empathy in your employees. Train them to put themselves in the shoes of your customers and, in doing so, develop compassion. Make sure that everyone – from frontline employees to executives – receives customer service training This lesson is brought to us by Amazon, which is not only doing phenomenally well in sales and innovation, but is also achieving wonders in customer service. The e-commerce giant is always on Prosper’s list of Customer Service Champions, thanks to its customer-centric practices.
they benefit from additional training or regular reminders to be empathic towards customers? Empower employees to keep customers happy One of the ways in which the e-tailer accomplishes this is by empowering representatives to use their judgement and simply keep customers happy. Action steps: Encourage your staff to be helpful, rather than salesy. See to it that they make each customer’s happiness a priority and empower them to use their judgement when it comes to serving shoppers. Be proactive in approaching customers Encourage your associates to move from behind the counter onto the sales floor, where they can interact with shoppers. Action steps: Promote proactive customer in your store. Do not wait until someone asks for your or your associates’ help: go out there and actively seek customers to assist.
Action steps: Evaluate the customer-centricity of your company. Is every member of your team in touch with the needs of shoppers? Would
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
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SCENE AROUND
Glitz and glamour at Jewellex cocktail function The 2018 Anglo American Platinum Jewellex cocktail function was held on 6 October in the L’Incontro Ballroom at the Michelangelo Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg. Attendees had the opportunity to network and socialise with colleagues and friends in the industry at this chic event.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
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LITTLE GEMS
Naturally pure, white, eternal – that’s the description of platinum. The metal was very much in the news at the end of last year because of dramatic events which grabbed media headlines across the world. What is it about platinum that sends men down to the bowels of the earth to extract it? Alice Weil looks at the properties which make it so desirable. THE PLATINUM GROUP OF metals in its natural state is often accompanied by small amounts of other platinum metals – or elements, as they are sometimes referred to collectively. South Africa has vast amounts of platinum ore deposits – a precious metal which is 25 times rarer than gold – which are primarily located in the Merensky Reef of the Bushveld Complex, so named after German geologist Hans Merensky. He discovered the world’s largest deposits in 1923, which gave birth to our platinum industry. These deposits comprise six metallic elements which are clustered together, namely ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium and platinum. All of these have similar physical and chemical properties and usually occur together in the same mineral deposits. To be very technical, they can be further subdivided into the iridium group platinum and the palladium group platinum elements. This is based on their behaviour in geological terms. The metal grew in popularity in the 19th and 20th centuries and was an ideal setting for diamond jewellery because of its tensile qualities, while its whiteness set off these gems to great advantage.
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In praise of platinum
Platinum was used by Russian jeweller Fabergé for the first time in 1884 in combination with gold for an Easter egg commissioned by the Tsar to commemorate the opening of the Trans-Siberian railway. But it was Parisian jeweller Louis Cartier who realised the attributes of the metal and was the first to use it regularly to create flushset jewellery in the early 1900s. Following the sinking of the Titanic in 1912, black jewels – used as a sign of mourning – saw a platinum setting as the chosen white metal. Its success among Hollywood’s stars of the silver screen who provided an antidote to the Great Depression of the '20s was epitomised by Jean Harlow, who was described as a “platinum blonde”. From 1939, with the outbreak of World War II, platinum was decreed a strategic metal for weapons by the USA and could no longer be used for making jewellery, but it was also utilised in the production of catalytic converters. This resulted in the new and younger generation of jewellers being unaware of its qualities and lacking the experience to work it. Yellow gold was their metal of choice. What goes around comes around and platinum gradually resumed its rightful place in the jewellery industry, encouraged by promotional activities of the mining companies and the formation of the Platinum Guild International. The characteristics of the metal make it possible to use in high proportions in alloys. Its specific weight is 21,45 g per cubic centimetre, which is one of the highest
known. Platinum has an undeserved reputation for being difficult to work – heatresistant, it has a melting point of around 1 772°C and low thermal conductivity. It holds its shape even at high temperatures, is hypoallergenic and has inherent qualities which make it one of the most valuable of metals, as does its resistance to wear and tarnishing. It is widely used for bridal jewellery for more than simple ornamentation; it implies a statement of emotional commitment. As couples look to the future, a platinum engagement and wedding ring seal this commitment to a lifetime of love (hopefully, in this era when divorce is far too often viewed as a quick solution to relationship problems). The Japanese were among the first to recognise its symbolism. Platinum has been used for coins, the bestknown of which is the American Eagle issued by the US Mint in 1997. This has a purity of 0,995. In the creation of Haute Horlogerie, the choice of metal for the case and often the bracelet is platinum. The Omega Tourbillon Squelette Co-Axial limited edition of 18 pieces, of which each watch has been assembled by hand, is but one example. In this impressive timepiece of the highest specification, the initials of the watchmaker have been engraved on the back of each tourbillon calibre.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2018
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Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery. TM
TM
www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433