SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • November 2019

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Jewellery News

SA

Celebrating 91 years of serving the diamond and jewellery industry BYL 210mm(w) x 195mm(h) Front Oct.pdf

1

10/17/19

9:59 AM

NOVEMBER 2019

SA J E

• LVMH jewellery and watch revenue jumps

•

W

• Six Rings competition-winners honoured

rs yea 91

N RY LE

EWS • se rvi n diamond an dj he gt

EL

• Industry showcase alive and well

ry industry f or elle ew

Contact us for free price & stock lists for lab grown diamonds

c ntents

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Publisher: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

31. DIAMONDS

Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

Antwerp bans lab-grown from trading floors

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

32. MANUFACTURING AND DESIGN Local manufacturers and designers receiving international attention

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isihkova.co.za

33. BRAND MANAGEMENT

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

• Zenith’s Defy Inventor

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

• Breitling releases Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk Editions

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

9. NEWS

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metalbox building, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, South Africa.

Postal: PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

• Renowned local diamantaire Sarel Snyman passes away • LVMH jewellery and watch revenue jumps • Gem Color Academy and Gem Training International to offer courses in southern Africa

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Banking Details: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 3319 867 44

Jewellex Africa welcomes back Business Breakfast

Industry showcase alive and well

17. EDUCATIONAL INSERT

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

36. JEWELLERY DESIGN Jewellery Council Collection Award-winners announced

Gems & Jewellery: The South African Handbook

38. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST

29. JEWELLERY DESIGN

Creating a sense of urgency for positive re-focus

Leading refinery Metal Concentrators honoured its Six Rings competition-winners at this year’s Jewellex Africa

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Jewellery News

SA

Celebrating 91 years of serving the diamond and jewellery industry BYL 210mm(w) x 195mm(h) Front Oct.pdf

1

10/17/19

9:59 AM

NOVEMBER 2019

40. LITTLE GEMS Fashion is fickle

On the cover

B.Y.L Diamonds are wholesale stockists of certified loose diamonds, certified loose tanzanite, calibrated

round diamonds, calibrated fancy-shape diamonds, patent criss-cut and crisscut cushion, investment stones, majestic patent diamond jewellery, designer diamond jewellery, certified

C

M

Y

CM

MY

tanzanite jewellery, platinum collection and the B.Y.L Collection. B.Y.L Diamonds offers

CY

CMY

K

free shipping anywhere in South Africa. For more information, contact tel: (021) 419-2000 / 060-801-4954 or e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com / online@byldiamonds.com or •

W

SA J E

N RY LE

• Six Rings competition winners honoured • LVMH jewellery and watch revenue jumps

rs yea 91

EL

• Industry showcase alive and well

EWS • se rvi n diamond an dj he gt

ry industry f or elle ew

4

The awards were presented at this year’s Jewellex Africa cocktail function

11. SCENE AROUND

12. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019: REVIEW

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

34. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019 EXHIBITOR LONG-STANDING AWARDS

visit: www.byldiamonds.com.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

ED'S NOTE

Editor's

(page 11) and welcomed back the Jewellex Business Breakfast (page 29). Besides the creative jewellery pieces, the spectacular gemstones, the very informative talks in the MetCon Speaker’s Corner and the latest in technology and machinery, what I enjoyed most about the show were the incredible people.

Jewellex is a wonderful reminder for me each year of how fortunate I am to be part of an industry where people genuinely care about each other and each other’s business endeavours, are friendly and warm and work together to see the industry flourish. Congratulations to Lorna Lloyd and the Jewellex organising

JEWELLEX IS BEHIND US – AND WHAT A memorable event it was! The show featured a number of highlights which are all included in this edition, from new launches to this year’s cocktail function (pages 12 & 13) to the announcement of the JCSA Collection Awardwinners (page 36) and the first-ever Exhibitor Long Standing Awards (page 34). The show also honoured the Six Rings competition-winners

DID YOU KNOW al journ trade only try’s indus the 2019 ing UARY of be JAN ars 90 ye al rating urn jo Celeb e trad ly on 19 ry’s 20 ust LY R36,00 JU ind (incl VAT) the ng bei

ws Jewelle ys Ne r e l ry New l e w w s Je Ne Jewelle NewsJew y r le l reywNee eller ry J e l w y Ne s el ws w e J T) cl VA

0 (in

R36,0

g9

n rati SA eleb

ars 0 ye

of

SA

C

,00

R36

cl

(in

T) VA

SA Jewellery News has been serving the diamond and jewellery industry for 91 years without skipping a single issue.

Celebrat ing

R36,00

rs of

serving

the diam ond and

)

Celebr ating 90 yea

90 yea ating Celebr

R36,00

91 yea

(incl VAT

SA

n tio ec oll s d c orie on s st m s ia e A d succ s etic ot th of sp l-syn ond GIA tura diam Sid way on es a na brid ic hy try pass us Ind rman Fo

ry’s only indust

rs of bein g the journal industry trade ’s

R36,00 ER 2018 (incl VA T) NOVEMB

only trad e journal

JANUAR Y 2019

)

(incl VAT

SA

Celebr ating over 90

SA

jewelle ry indu stry

OCTOBE R

SA

g the rs of bein

JEW

years

of bei

ng the

indust ry’s

only trad e jou

ELLE X ED ITIO N

rnal

2019

SEPTEM

e mitte Com person ir ellex Jew ew Cha ium rem nt ts n p in s o ai’ eve app Dub ellery jew 019 for 2 date ea Mak

• 20 South Africa • You n com ng panie s exh Mapu Diamanta ibit at ires ngubwe JA Ne in Lim visit Veneti • AI no w Yor popo a Min k t a key e and focus for ma rketer s

BER

2019

team on a wonderful event. We look forward to next year’s show!

This edition also showcases the wonderful talent of local designers and manufacturers.

One designer recently spotted someone very blue-blooded indeed wearing one of his brooches. The creativity and craftsmanship SA have to offer are definitely of international standard and something we can all be very proud of.

I also want to thank everyone who’s given us affirming, encouraging feedback about the positive changes we’re implementing in the magazine. We appreciate your kind words and suggestions and look forward to continuing to change things up a little so that we can give you, our valued readers and supporters, the best industry publication possible.

Enjoy this issue!

Adri Viviers

SUBSCRIBE TO SA JEWELLERY NEWS

t SA Min s reopen orld Coin Weum Mus

are on Nightm street nce insura e th Alic wi ys Je Mlle onda appoin we x Com d glamour ts new itz mittee llex GlChaian Jewe n rpat erso Dubai’s tail funnctio ckem copr ium jewelle ry even Make t a date for 20 19

SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa. Published monthly, this publication brings you scintillating news on current international and local affairs.

NAME:..................................................................................................................

3 EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE •

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

• Go to: www.isikhova.co.za/Forms/ SA_Jewellery_News_Subscribe.html • Fill in the form and with your proof of payment, email to: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za (see banking details)

COMPANY:...........................................................................................................

POSTAL ADDRESS:............................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. .................................................... CODE:..............................................................

TEL:............................................. FAX:..................................................................

MOBILE:...............................................................................................................

E-MAIL:.................................................................................................................

Cover price: R36,00 Subscription South Africa: R445,00 (12 issues) including VAT and postage

BANKING DETAILS BELOW:

International subscription: US$262,00 (12 issues) plus US$6,50 international banking clearance fee.

Branch: Sandton South Africa • Branch code: 01-92-05

All subscriptions may be done via electronic banking transfer.

Swift No: SBZA ZA JJ (International transfers)

Account name: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd • Bank: Standard Bank Account No: 3319 867 44 • Type account: Current

W h e n w e ’r e o n t o p o f t h e w o r l d o r l i f e t u r n s u p s i d e d o w n

I t ake you, until forever Forevermark Engagement & Commitment Collection Beautiful, Rare, Responsibly sourced

MESSAGE FROM THE CEO

Message from the CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA Importance of being part of an industry body MANY PEOPLE DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT what it means to be part of an industry body and a community who looks after its interests.

How otherwise could an industry flourish and grow without guidance from the very people who work in it?

The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is one such body that was established some 45 years ago by the industry and has evolved over the years to look after the interests of jewellery manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers.

A few of the council’s important recent activities have been pursuing a legal route with the Department of Mineral Resources regarding the gazetted 2018 Mining Charter to protect our local jewellery manufacturing industry. Currently, 80-90% of jewellery sold in SA is imported. The legislative requirements for jewellery manufacturers have become extremely stringent, with potentially dangerous consequences for the industry.

We understand the importance of developing our export capacity and besides export workshops arranged through the Department of Trade & Industry, we are able to facilitate funded trips for potential exporters to exhibit at international shows around the world.

The council is very proud to be able to assist our members in recognising skills that are not formally registered. A great deal of informal

training takes place in the manufacturing and retail environment and the introduction of the skills certificates gives formal recognition to their staff, providing them with a sense of achievement and pride.

Providing industry members with guidelines to run their businesses more effectively is a top priority. These include guidelines on standardising valuation practices and recommended disclaimers on sales and repairs to cover them legally.

With so much unemployment in SA, the jewellery industry faces huge crime threats.

The implementation of the Jewellery Council Risk/Crime Initiative some eight years ago has helped us combat crime. Working with the Council of Shopping Centres of SA and private security companies has been imperative to aid us in this challenge.

Assisting members in disputes with both consumers and fellow members has been another important benefit for members of the council, with the bonus of eliminating the need for expensive legal fees.

Discounts and preferential rates from banks for processing credit cards is a group discount which the council has negotiated on behalf of members.

Jewellex Africa, which recently took place, is one of the most important platforms offered by the JCSA to the industry. It affords the trade an opportunity to get together over one weekend during the year to do

business, network and socialise. We encourage you to help us ensure the growth of our local industry through this platform.

Communication is key in the distribution of relevant news, legislative requirements, education and announcements. Platforms offered are generally by e-mail, although another important tool is the JCSA’s magazine, SA Jewellery News, which is published by an independent company, Isikhova Publishing.

We encourage you to use this publication as your mouthpiece. Become a member and have your say! Attend the annual roadshows around the country and find out how you can benefit by being a member.

Any association is only ever as strong as the total sum of its members and we therefore look forward to your business being part of the fold.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

MEMBERSHIP INVITATION The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Wholesalers and Service Members.

For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today!

All enquiries including membership costs are to be directed to Bavina Vassan on (011) 484 5528 or bavinav@jewellery.org.za

Initiating, Implementing, Informing, Supporting, Representing

NEWS

RENOWNED LOCAL DIAMANTAIRE SAREL SNYMAN PASSES AWAY It was with great sadness that the diamond and jewellery industry learnt of the passing of Sarel Snyman on 8 October. Snyman devoted a major part of his life to the local diamond industry and served on many industry bodies, including the Rough Diamond Dealers’ Association of SA, the Diamond Club of SA and the Diamond Merchants’ Association of SA. His father-in law, Hennie Smuts, first introduced him to the diamond industry after he had completed his military service in the SA Airforce and was working at Nasionale Pers. His first position in the industry was at Noordeck DCW “Sarel was a very hard worker. I remember meeting him in 2000 when I took over the publishing of SA Jewellery News, then owned by the Diamond Club of SA,” recalls Andrew

Meyer. “I explained to him that I believes our company could make this journal financially independent and even contribute a royalty payment to the club. Sarel was excited by the concept and for the next 19 years, we had a very passionate and loyal Editorial Board member.”

Snyman was also one of the first industry members to receive a Rough Diamond Dealers’ licence in SA. While managing his own business, he always found time to help build the industry, for which he received an Honorary Member award from the Diamond Club of SA. Snyman retired last year at the age of 74, when his lease expired at his offices. “He wasn’t prepared to sign a new lease for a further five years, yet he still looked after many of his old clients and maintained close links with the industry,” says Meyer. “Over the past few years, he worked closely with some of the largest diamond companies in India, assisting them with imports.”

“Sarel was known as a pillar of strength in the diamond industry. His Christianity was very powerful in his life, which was evident in the

way he behaved during meetings and especially in how he treated his peers,” remembers longtime friend and industry colleague Jan Nortjé.

“Some of them called him a real Afrikaner boereseun with very high moral standards which he proudly upheld throughout his life.

His ethical conduct towards the industry could never be faulted and will remain a guide to us all. His wisdom will be missed. Vrede vir jou, my maat van yster en plaat.”

LVMH JEWELLERY AND WATCH REVENUE JUMPS LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton saw a rise in jewellery and watch sales in the third quarter, led by a strong performance at its Bulgari brand, it said last week.

Revenue for the category increased 8% to US$1,24 billion for the three months ending 30 September.

Growth at Bulgari was led by sales in its selfowned stores, while its Serpenti, B.Zero1, Diva and Fiorever lines, as well as the new Serpenti Seduttori watch collection, were strong performers. Watch brand TAG Heuer performed well, as did Hublot, which made “solid progress”, benefiting from new models in several

collaborations, the luxury group said.

In the first nine months of the year, revenue from jewellery and watches advanced 8% to US$3,59 billion.

Group sales for the third quarter – including jewellery, wines and spirits, fashion and cosmetics – grew 16% to US$42,31 billion. – Rapaport

NEWS

GEM COLOR ACADEMY AND GEM TRAINING INTERNATIONAL TO OFFER COURSES IN SOUTHERN AFRICA The Gem Color Academy, Gemewizard’s educational arm, and Gem Training International of SA, run by the latter’s CEO Alan Lowe, have announced the official signing of a strategic agreement that will enable Gem Training International to offer online and on-site classes of Gem Color Academy’s brand-new Colored Stones Grading Course in southern Africa.

Ideal for anyone wishing to develop in buying, selling, auctioning or valuing gems or jewellery, the new course – powered by Gemewizard’s groundbreaking technologies – teaches the grading rules for colour, clarity, size, geographical origin, enhancements and other

attributes, and demonstrates the techniques and methodology behind them. The pricing system then allows students to calculate the potential effect of each feature on the gem’s current market price via interactive exercises.

“Gemewizard couldn’t have asked for a better partner than Gem Training International, a leader in gemmology education in this area of Africa, to collaborate and offer this course,” says Gemewizard’s President, Menahem Sevdermish. “The course provides the participants with online tools which aren’t available elsewhere and with skills to prepare them for a career in the gem and jewellery world. The gained knowledge and experience, which usually take a few years to attain in the real gem trade, can now be acquired within a few months.”

Lowe adds that the institute’s decision to teach the course was a no-brainer. “As part of our syllabus update, Gem Training International was looking towards the new types of technologies that will give us an advantage in our industry. Gem Color Academy's grading

Jewellery Biz-News is an electronic newsletter that is emailed weekly to subscribers both in South Africa and overseas. It covers hard-hitting breaking news about what is happening within the international diamond and jewellery industry at the touch of a button.

ADVERTISING THAT WORKS! Place your banner on Jewellery Biz-News to get your message across.

A full size banner costs just R930 per insertion.

TO SUBSCRIBE: email thuli@isikhova.co.za and put “Subscribe Biz-News” in the subject line.

TO ADVERTISE: contact Ian Starnes on ian@isikhova.co.za or (011) 883-4627.

system, with its associated Gemewizard’s GemePrice system, is the leader in gem grading and pricing education, so we immediately realised that such a collaboration would upgrade us to new levels.”

The course interface and materials were presented at Jewellex Africa during October, which was held in Johannesburg. The first courses (both online and on-site) will be available at Gem Training International from the beginning of November.

JEWELLERY DESIGN

Six Rings competition-winners honoured THE SIX RINGS COMPETITION INVITED JEWellers to put their creation down on paper.

Expression, rather than theme, was important.

“Through dedication and delicate alchemy, jewellery design transforms raw material into fine art,” explains MetCon. “We have worked alongside talented jewellers to print, cast and finish precious metals creations, taking great care in our craftmanship. To celebrate the jeweller and our developing relationships we were excited to launch the first MetCon Six Ring competion this year.”

Leading refinery and jewellery manufacturer Metal Concentrators SA (Pty) Ltd honoured its Six Rings competition winners during a cocktail event at its stand at this year’s Jewellex Africa.

Light of Life Karlien du Plessis of Karlien Designs

Untitled Esther Boshoff of Beaudell Jewellery

National Bloom Oriana Todesco Private Designer

This ring is for the naturals, with no need to pose or pretend. Inspired by pregnancy — it’s a girl! — Karlien couldn’t help but see the beauty and life in everything. Her ring combines the circle and flower of life, to create a radiating piece that speaks of new beginnings.

Durable refinement. The beauty of simplicity, the elegance of detail. Esther’s ring is so much more than melded metal. Intended to be passed down from generation to generation, Esther’s ring is a pristine treasure to hold together a deep promise.

This ring is not for the wallflowers, the shy, the introverts. Step back bashful wearers. This ring is making a statement! No questions asked, no approval needed. Inspired by the King Protea, South Africa’s lush national flower, Oriana’s ring is in full bloom.

Elegantly Refined Ryno Marais of Studio1980

The New Nouveau Michael Wall of Michael Wall Design

Wonder Woman Ring Isabel Pfaff of Isabel Jewellery Design Studio

Ryno believes that jewellery should be worn to ignite joy. It is for oneself, never about others.

Detailed, rich and multi-layered, his ring was created for an independent woman, certain of her success. When this woman looks at her ring later in life, rich experiences — no regrets! — come flooding back.

Think Europe. French royals, Monaco villas, champagne-drenched galas. Michael broke the mould, evolving the style of art nouveau vs art deco. Rich detail contrasts with intentional simplicity. With just a wave of her hand, the remarkable woman wearing this ring knows she is the centre of attention.

4 carats, but casual darling. Isabel believes jewellery is there to be worn. Let it out, let it shine! Her ring is elegant, intricate and textural. Created for the expressive, compelling woman with a glint of wit in her eye. Never hide, it whispers.

Light of Life.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

The Six Rings judges were David Newman and Nina Newman. “Narrowing down the entries was difficult. One winner may have been impossible.

Ultimately, our six winning rings were worthy; original, inspired and technically excellent.” The process, from craft to creation, was on exhibition at the MetCon stand for the duration of the show.

11

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019: REVIEW

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019 OPENED WITH AN influx of visitors promptly at 10am on Saturday, 5 October. This was rather unusual, as in the past, visitors tended to drift in slowly. It might have been a sign that despite the current state of the industry, it is still alive and viable.

The smaller size is merely a reaction to the general state of the world economy – even the granddaddy of the jewellery and watch sector, Baselworld, suffered a similar fate.

The trend was undoubtedly “smaller is better”. There were fewer large diamonds to be seen in the jewels, as in previous years. Instead, the emphasis was on design, which presented manufacturers with a new challenge.

This was particularly noticeable at Protea Diamonds’ exhibit and resulted in jewels suitable for all occasions. Ungar got it right too. Ronald Ungar said he was very pleased with the brand’s turnover, visitors’ reaction and orders placed.

The importance of jewellery in women’s – and, more recently, men’s – lives cannot be under-estimated. It has always been a part of our culture. Owning a good collection symbolises a certain status. Jewellery is a desired accessory for both sexes and a means of expression – a symbol of both prestige and personality. It is here to stay, come what may.

This year’s show saw a number of exciting new launches. Versitrade launched its Footprints Only range. “‘What difference can one plastic straw make to the environment?’ asked 5 million people. We’re becoming more and more aware of the damage we’re causing to our planet and we need to change,” said Wenda Currie, from the organisation.

Footprints Only is a range of sterling silver pendants. Each piece comes packaged on its own card with a motivational saying. “What makes this range unique to others? It’s simple.

All the packaging is made from compostable and recyclable material, including the display

12

Industry showcase ali stand and the individually wrapped cards,” explained Currie. “Our earth is fragile, so while we can create lasting memories, we should leave only footprints.”

Studio C Manufacturing Jewellers launched its Nu u jewellery range, handwoven by graduates of local institutions now employed by Studio C. The range incorporates laser-cut silver.

Display Creations showcased its new Protea Series 2019.

Jewellex also featured a number of exciting highlights. The Jewellex cocktail function, sponsored by Anglo American Platinum, was

The trend was undoubtedly ‘smaller is better’. There were no large diamonds to be seen in the jewels, as in previous years. Instead, the emphasis was on design, which presented manufacturers with a new challenge.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019: REVIEW

This year’s Jewellex Africa, which took place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg, promised to be memorable – and it certainly delivered.

ive and well held at the Metcon Coffee Shop at 3pm and included a stunning fashion show presented

by Viviers Studio, featuring the Jewellex Africa 2019 Exhibitors Collections. The Exhibitor Long-Standing Awards (a new event, replacing the Best Stand Awards) were also presented at the cocktail function, in honour of exhibitors who have been loyal supporters of the show for over 10 years. Twenty-four companies received this prestigious award (see page 34).

Leading refinery Metal Concentrators also honoured its Six Rings competition-winners at a cocktail event at its stand. The winners were Isabel Pfaff, Michael Wall, Ryno Marais, Karlien

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

du Plessis, Oriana Todesco and Esther Boshoff (see page 11).

The 2019 Jewellery Council Collection Award-winners were announced on Monday, 7 October, in the CPM Chill Lounge. The prize-giving ceremony was presented by the Chairman of the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA, Dave Newman. This year’s overall winner in the Handmade Category was Khutso Mahlatlele, while the CAD Category overall winner was Hesti Wade (see page 36 for more on the winners).

This year’s Jewellex Africa Business Breakfast, sponsored by Rand Refinery, was very well attended. Howard Sackstein was the guest speaker. Having travelled to 76 countries, attended university with Barack Obama and played with some of the world’s greatest leaders and thinkers, he shared life lessons people have taught him along the way. “We thank Rand Refinery for rekindling the idea of a Business Breakfast, which has not been held at Jewellex for some years,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA and Chairperson of the Jewellex Committee.

Jewellex featured a number of informative talks at this year’s Speaker’s Corner. On the opening day, Andrew Meyer led a discussion on natural vs man-made diamonds. Joining him on stage were Ernie Blom, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Chris van Rensburg, Chairperson of the JCSA and Deonne le Roux, owner of Deonne le Roux Jewellers. The following day, Anna-Mart Rossouw from Paramount Consulting discussed the importance of training, especially during tough times, while Metcon hosted a discussion on sustainability.

This year’s show also welcomed a delegation from Mauritius. “The Mauritian Economic Development Board hosted 11 Mauritian companies to exhibit at Jewellex Africa 2019,” says Lloyd. “These companies were exhibiting gold, silver and gemstone jewellery. In line with the government strategy to promote Mauritius as a reputable and effective trade and investment platform for the continent, the Economic Development Board is working towards reinforcing economic collaboration with African states to leverage on the geostrategic position of the island to drive investment into the continent,” explains Lloyd. “The government has already embarked on several initiatives to cement its relations with most African states. As an African country, Mauritius continues to be a strategic development partner in and for the continent.

“Jewellex is an important platform that brings the trade together during one weekend

in the year. We all have different reasons for being there. Whether it’s buying, seeing new products and trends, meeting and networking or just connecting, it’s important that we support our trade and keep it alive,” adds Lloyd.

“Without Jewellex, I believe the trade would be disjointed and important business relationships would be far and few. The exhibitors that were at Jewellex did the business and those who did not attend missed out.

“Thank you to the visitors who travelled from all over the country to support the trade.”

Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO and Chairperson of the Jewellex Committee, has been in the industry for almost 30 years and although not directly involved from the outset, was still part of the team involved in organising Jewellex very early on, when the show was outsourced to an independent exhibition organising company with which she worked closely at the time.

Lloyd has been responsible for organising Jewellex since about 2000 “Putting a show like Jewellex together is a team effort,” says Lloyd.

“Elsa da Silva has been my PA and worked directly on the Jewellex account for the past six years. Andira Maharaj, who is the council’s accountant, has been with us for almost 12 years and has been directly involved in Jewellex stand sales for the past couple of years.

Bavina Vassan works closely with Elsa on all aspects of Jewellex and has been with the council for nine years. Kirsten Lenton has been with the council for four years and besides playing a supportive role, was also involved in Jewellex stand sales.

“The Jewellery Council team worked very hard during the months leading up to the show. I’m very proud of all of them.”

13

ADVERTORIAL

On top of a choice destination for its scenic splendour, as well as an ideal place to work and live, Mauritius offers an unparalleled business ecosystem for investment and trade in terms of fiscal incentives, preferential market access and export incentives.

Mauritius, your investment de OVER THE YEARS, MAURITIUS HAS SUCCESSfully transformed into a well-diversified economy which transcends its idyllic image as a tourist destination.

Mauritius has crafted a strong growthoriented developmental path which has enabled us to achieve one of the highest per capita income in Africa. Indeed, from USD 400 in 1968 when the country achieved independence, our development strategy has put us at the brink of becoming a high-income economy with a per capita income of around USD12,100 in 2019.

Today, the Government is committed to position the jewellery sector as an important pillar of the new economic architecture being developed to graduate Mauritius into a highincome economy.

In this perspective, to bolster the development of the nascent jewellery sector in Mauritius, the Economic Development Board led a 9-member strong delegation of Mauritian jewellers to the renowned Jewellex exhibition 2019.

What does this mean for the South African businessman, the precious metals manufacturer, wholesaler or retailer, the importer/ exporter, whether into SA or distribution around the globe?

The Economic Development Board of Mau-

14

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

ADVERTORIAL

Mauritius Value Proposition, and a glance at our 9 Manufacturing Jewellers who exhibited with great success and engaged enthusiastically with the SA Jewellery Industry Exhibitors and Visitors in October. We were delighted to be so well received and have made especially beneficial Brand 2 Brand relations with whom we engaged.

Key Facts about the Jewellery industry in Mauritius • Third export pillar in the Manufacturing sector (2018) • Total Exports : MUR. 3.5 billion • Total Employment : 2500 • Main export destinations: Switzerland, France, Belgium, USA and Vietnam • Main sources of imports: Belgium, France, Canada, Russia and South Africa • International clienteles: Leo Schachter, David Yurman, Leachgarner, Rio Grande, Shourouk, O. C. Tanner, Tiffany, Selected findings, LVMH, Dinh Van, Charlotte Chenet.

estination ritius is ready to engage further with the South African Precious Metals Industry, on a bespoke plan for your particular business (which, by the way, requires no local Mauritian ownership) and to enlighten you on the incredible competence and breath-taking variety of Jewellery being manufactured by the local Jewellery Industry in Mauritius.

“IF YOU MISSED US AT JEWELLEX 2019 “read on for a quick introduction to the EDB,

Incentives and benefits of operating in Mauritius • No import duties on jewellery plant, equipment, raw materials and components; • VAT exemption on gold • Jewellers with turnover of less than Rs 6 million is exempted to VAT registration; • VAT exemption on, the sale of gold by the Bank of Mauritius • No custom duty on jewellery • Refund of VAT paid on purchases by tourists holding a foreign passport; and • VAT exemption on 3D printing technologies • 3% corporate tax on profits derived from exports of goods • No import duties on equipment and

raw material • No export duties in Mauritius • Investment Tax Credit of 5% - 15% per year (i.e. 15% - 45% over three years) for investment in high-tech manufacturing equipment • Accelerated depreciation of 50% on machinery, equipment and construction of industrial premises dedicated to manufacturing activities • No Registration Duty and Land Transfer Tax on any transfer of a building or land earmarked for the construction of a building, to be utilised for the setting up of qualifying high-tech manufacturing activities • Accelerated depreciation of 50 percent per annum on capital expenditure incurred on R&D • Tax-free dividends • No restriction on ownership: 100% foreign ownership allowed • No exchange controls: free repatriation of profits, dividends and capital • No minimum foreign capital required Capital and annual allowances for investment in equipment • Trade Promotion & Marketing Scheme offering a 40% refund on local exports to European countries for the following eligible products; (1) Textile and Apparel, (2) Jewellery, (3) Medical Devices, (4) Chilled Fish, (5) Fruits, (6) Flowers, (7) Vegetables, (8) Articles of Leather, (9) Footwear, (10) Watches, and (11) Fabric Plush Toys The EDB will be pleased to answer to any queries. Kindly contact Randhir Guirdharry at Randhir@edbmauritius.org or Shakeel Jaulim at Shakeel@edbmauritius.org.

Company

Contact person

Phone

Email

Rafs Design

Azeeza Ruhomuth

(230)57566042

azeezarachid@gmail.com

Gold and Silver jewellery

Atelier M Artisanat Fantaisie

Mahesh Pratap

(230)59368177

mpcl.adm@gmail.com

Gold and Silver jewellery

Aremo Ltd

Rainer Goetze

(230)2837943

aremoltd@intnet.mu

Gold and Silver jewellery

SMS Ltd

Rihan Beeharry Panray

(230)2049595/52519575

rihan.beeharry-panray@smsltd.mu

Gold Jewellery

Jewelry & Gems Co Ltd

Kalyanee Rajroop

(230)5256 5795/5930 2500

mel.r05@hotmail.co.uk

Jewelleries with gemstones

L'Art du Verre

Francesca Sylvie

(230)57596021

lartduverre@live.fr

Gold Lane Ltd

Philip Goetze

(230)2837943

aremoltd@intnet.mu

My Art Ltd

Mr. Milord Duval

(230)57757154

dumiljo@intnet.mu

Crystal Fortune Aura Shop

Ms Purnima Appa Jala

info@crystal-fortune.com

Website

www.lartduverre.com

Product

Gold and Silver jewellery Gold and Silver jewellery

www.alliagebijoux.com

Gold and Silver jewellery Crystal jewellery

Contact the Economic Develepment Board Mauritius Address: 10th Floor, One Cathedral Square Building, 16 Jules Koenig St, Port Louis 11328, Republic of Mauritius Tel: (+230) 203 3800 | Email: contact@edbmauritius.org

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

15

Clarity is our trade stand point

80 COLUMBINE PLACE UNIT 5 COTTONFIELDS GLEN ANIL, DURBAN 031 569 3010/1/2 084 777 6966 nikki@virtuediamonds.co.za

website - www.virtuediamonds.co.za instagram - @virtuediamonds facebook - Virtue Diamonds

Monthly educational insert A SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petre Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years postgraduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and ten years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 2

ISSUE 2 SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES • Training and education

• A business plan

• Business registration, licences and permits

TRAINING AND EDUCATION A career in the diamond and jewellery industry requires specialised skills. In the past, this was shared between family members. No longer. New technologies and globalisation demand that the modern jeweller updates his skills on a regular basis. For instance, a lack of knowledge about the latest synthetic gemstones or manufacturing techniques may cost you your business. In-house training (early- morning sessions or during your quieter months) on product knowledge and sales skills forms a major part of management’s responsibilities.

Furthermore, black economic empowerment (BEE) regulations require businesses to spend a reasonable amount of their budget on staff training. If you lack training skills, there are a number of organisations (indicated below) that provide up-todate courses on a wide variety of jewellery-related subjects.

Members of the Master Diamond Cutters’ Association and the Rough Diamond Dealers’ Association formed a Diamond Foundation, which - in partnership with De Beers - established the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School in Gauteng. This school offers courses in rough diamond assessment and diamond polishing, as well as grading of polished diamonds. For further information visit: www.diamond.co.za/dts.

PART-TIME COURSES The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) offers correspondence courses for a career in retail and wholesale management, jewellery manufacturing and design, as well as grading of diamonds and coloured gemstones.This is probably the most comprehensive education of its kind available today.

For further information visit: www.gia.edu.

The European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) offers short courses in diamond grading, tanzanite and coloured gemstone identification and gemstone courses for the retail jeweller. For further information visit: www.egl.co.za.

The Gemmological Association of Great Britain offers four different courses. Completion thereof leads to an FGA(Fellow of the Gem Ass of GB) Subscribe at: information@gem-a.com.

The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) organises short workshops and training courses in various jewellery-related fields. For further information visit: www.jewellery.org.za.

FULL-TIME COURSES The University of Stellenbosch offers a four year BA fine arts degree with specialisation in jewellery manufacture and design. Masters and Doctoral degrees are also offered. For further information visit: www.sun.ac.za.

The Universities of Technology in Gauteng, Cape Town, Durban and Tshwane offer three- to four-year courses in jewellery manufacture and design. For further information visit: www.uj.ac.za (Gauteng); www.cput.ac.za (Cape Town); www.ukzn.ac.za (Durban) and www.tut.ac.za (Tshwane), as well as the College of Cape Town: www.cct.edu.za.

THE SECTOR EDUCATION TRAINING AUTHORITY (SETA) The SETA of our industry is the Mining Qualifications Authority (MQA) which is responsible for the implementation of the Skills Development Act of 1998 and its later amendments. This Act established, amongst other things, learnership programmes that are based on theoretical education given by training centres or colleges, combined with on-the-job training in a workplace.

Employers can apply for a grant from the MQA and will receive tax breaks from SARS, once they have signed a learnership agreement with a learner and the MQA. For further information visit: www.mqa.org.za.

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

SOUTH AFRICAN TRADE QUALIFICATIONS Unfortunately, no SA trade qualification is currently available for the retail jeweller. In future a national certificate for sales representatives and jewellery store management will be developed.

A number of nationally recognised trade qualifications are available for bench workers (National Certificate Levels 2 and 3), goldsmiths, stone setters and jewellery designers (National Certificate Level 4). To qualify, you must: 1)

Sign a learnership contract with the MQA and an employer. A number of skills programmes are available in which theoretical training will be given by an accredited service provider (such as private firms and/or colleges) while practical training is provided by your employer.

A learnership can cover only the basic skills or can culminate in a trade test and a Level 4 qualification. An existing apprenticeship programme is slowly being phased out.

trade test, the MQA has established a programme called RPL (Recognition of Prior Learning) whereby such workers can do a pre-trade test and, if successful, obtain a level 4 qualification when they pass the trade test.

3)

Complete a three- or four-year course at Stellenbosch University or one of the other Universities of Technology and thereafter, join a workshop until you are ready to undergo a pre-trade test assessment and, finally, a trade test.

In future, a South African master goldsmith qualification may become a reality.

2) For bench workers or designers who obtained extensive

experience and skills over many years, but never did a

For further information visit: www.jewellery.org.za.

A BUSINESS PLAN FOR JEWELLERS

AN ESSENTIAL TOOL FOR NEW BUSINESSES AND THOSE LOOKING FOR FINANCE Business plans are not only for start-up companies looking for finance, but are also of great benefit to existing companies in the planning of their future. Here, we deal with what the content of a business plan should look like.

JEWELCO BUSINESS PLAN 1. SUMMARY An abstract of the contents of the main body of the plan.

2. WHAT IS JEWELCO?

•

The names of the principals.

•

The company name, logo, address, store locations and contact numbers.

•

A brief company history.

•

How is it organised? A registered company, close corporation or sole proprietor?

• •

A description of the main products and services.

Financial status indicating sales volumes, cash flow, reserves, profitability, gross margin and outstanding debt.

ISSUE 2

•

A mission statement, eg: “The mission of Jewelco is to provide a good living for the owners and employees by offering quality products and to conduct business ethically and honestly at all times.”

3. STATE OF THE INDUSTRY • An analysis of the industry in your area covering its

general profitability, your competition, location of store

and availability of staff.

•

An analysis of changes in the industry that will have an impact on your company and what actions will be taken to deal with such changes.

4. JEWELCO CUSTOMERS

• •

How effectively is inventory controlled?

How are costs controlled and are you operating within your budget?

• An analysis of the productivity of your goldsmiths,

and salespeople.

•

Safety rules and disposure of hazardous waste.

8. MANAGEMENT AND STAFF ANALYSES •

A short description of the management team.

• A short description of the production, sales and

admin teams.

•

How is performance measured for management as well as staff?

•

Which training programmes are in place?

•

How does Jewelco’s payroll compare with the industry average?

5. JEWELCO’S COMPETITION

•

What outside experts are used?

An analysis of your main competitors, their strengths and weaknesses compared with Jewelco’s. For instance, evaluate and compare items such as store location and ease of access, traffic volumes, window displays, advertising frequency and impact, range of merchandise, quality of merchandise, price points, credit policy, reputation in the community, gemmological expertise, quality of sales staff, customer loyalty, repair services, design services and management skills.

•

A short description of Jewelco’s BEE programme.

6. MARKETING AND SALES STRATEGIES

10. PROJECTIONS FOR THE FUTURE

•

•

Short description of long-term goals for expansion and personnel.

•

Projected budgets.

•

An analysis of current customer profiles - ie, who buys what?

•

An analysis of potential new customers and how to reach them.

What is the message you wish to transmit to your market?

• What are your current and future marketing and

promotion plans and budgets?

9. FINANCIAL STATUS An analysis of current financial statements indicating sales volumes, cash flows, reserves, profitability, gross margin, outstanding debt and informative financial ratios.

7. OPERATIONS ANALYSES

11. ACTION PLAN

• What licences/permits you have or still need to apply for.

Addressing problems highlighted by the above analysis.

• Who are your suppliers and on what basis do you

purchase merchandise?

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

BUSINESS REGISTRATION, TAX, LICENCES AND PERMITS The legal requirements to trade in diamonds, jewellery or precious metal jewellery may seem onerous to the beginner.

However, many countries impose much stricter rules and regulations on their diamond and gold industries than those currently required of South African businesses. The small, first-time jeweller, in particular, enjoys a relatively easy entry into the South African business world as many of our legal requirements apply to larger companies only.

A new Company’s Law - replacing that of 1973 - will come into effect during 2010/11. One of its aims is to make the formation of a company for a small enterprise much easier.

You have to decide on the legal nature of your business - ie, will you be trading as a sole proprietor, a partnership, a close corporation, a private company or a company with share capital? The type of structure you choose determines how you are taxed and with which organisations you have to register.

TYPES OF BUSINESS

appoint an accounting officer, but its financial statements need not be audited. It is a legal entity on its own and another company cannot become a member.The owners are not personally responsible for the debts. Not all members of a close corporation have to be active in the running of the business and their meetings are normally held on an ad hoc basis. It is a simplified and more flexible business entity than a company and is ideally suited for small to mediumsized jewellery companies. Once the new Company’s Law is passed, no new close corporations will be allowed to register.

The existing ones will, however, exist indefinitely.

4. A PRIVATE COMPANY This business entity is owned by at least one to 50 shareholders, often referred to as directors, whose shares cannot be sold to the public. Under the proposed new Company’s Law, a private company can have more than 50 shareholders. A registered private company has a Proprietary Limited or (Pty) Ltd status which forms part of its registered name.

1. A SOLE TRADER

5. A PUBLIC COMPANY WITH SHARE CAPITAL

This type of business is easy to set up and is typically used where the owner is doing all the work. The owner is personally and totally responsible for all the debts and liabilities of the business and stands to lose everything if the business fails. A sole trader can easily change his business into a close corporation or a company as it expands.

Such a company offers shares to the public in order to raise funds. The registration process for a company with share capital is quite complex and should be done by an attorney.

The word “Limited” appears at the end of its name. Very few independent jewellers need such a structure, although larger chains may opt for it.

2. A PARTNERSHIP

6. AN EXTERNAL COMPANY

When two or more people (20 partners are the maximum) start a business together, all partners are equally responsible for debts that are incurred. A partnership is easy to set up and is subjected to fewer regulations than close corporations and companies. A partnership agreement covering issues such as profit-sharing, salaries, banking arrangements, change of partners, liquidation and the responsibilities of the partners should be drawn up by a business lawyer.

Any business that is registered in a foreign country but wishes to do business in South Africa needs to apply for a permit as an external company. The service of a South African legal practitioner is required for such an application.

3. A CLOSE CORPORATION (CC) A close corporation is owned by between one and 10 members and its shares have no public market. It must

HOW TO REGISTER YOUR BUSINESS Each of the above entities must be registered with the following legal bodies: •

•

The Companies and Intellectual Property Registration Office (CIPRO) South African Revenue Services (SARS)

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

ISSUE 2

•

Department of Labour

•

Local municipality

2009/10 tax year and will almost certainly be adjusted in future.You can download a SARS Tax Guide and the required forms from its website: www.sars.gov.za.

•

Industrial Council

1. REGISTRATION FOR INCOME TAX (PAYE)

•

The South African Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator. If your business trades in rough diamonds and/or beneficiates precious metals, it will need special permits from this body.

Any person or enterprise that becomes liable for the payment of income tax must, within 60 days of becoming liable, apply for registration as a taxpayer with a letter and a completed Form 101e, to the nearest SARS branch office.

Failure to do so will result in interest, penalties and additional tax for the late rendition of returns.

The website www.gov.za/starting an organisation or business provides detailed steps to follow, as well as the required forms to be completed and where to submit them.

I. THE COMPANIES AND INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY REGISTRATION OFFICE (CIPRO) Once you have decided on a name for your business, you should register it. Although a sole trader does not need to register his trading name, it is good business practice to do so in order to protect its future use.

An application (Form CK7) to reserve the name must be submitted to CIPRO, who will check its availability, and inform you of its findings. You are required to submit six names in order of preference. Once a name has been reserved, you have two months in which to apply for its registration (Form CK1). Registration of trademarks and other intellectual property matters is also done through CIPRO. An annual maintenance fee is charged.

Close corporations (even dormant ones) are required to submit their annual returns (which include information such as latest annual turnover, total members’ contribution, etc) to CIPRO, plus a prescribed fee, no later than the end of the month following the month of its incorporation.

You can download the necessary documentation from CIPRO’s website: www.cipro.co.za.

Please note: • The opening of a bank account is dependent on the

above documents being duly registered.

• The new Company’s Law will replace CIPRO with a

Commission for Companies and Intellectual Property.

II. SOUTH AFRICAN REVENUE SERVICES (SARS) SARS issues an annual directive on who is liable for income tax and at what rate. The figures below are applicable to the

You need to register yourself, your business and your employees in order to get a reference numbers for each taxpayer.

2. TYPES OF TAXPAYERS You and your employees will qualify either as a normal taxpayer or a provisional taxpayer.

•

A normal taxpayer

Anyone whose 2010 income exceeds R54 200 (for persons under 65) and R84 200 (for persons over 65) is liable to pay income tax.

•

A provisional taxpayer

In 2008 SARS defined a provisional taxpayer as one of the following: i)

Anyone other than a company or a person who has an income, other than his basic salary, that exceeds R20 000.

ii) Any director of a private company who is resident in

South Africa. iii) Any member of a close corporation if such a member is

a South African resident. iv) Any company or close corporation. v) Any person who is notified by the Commissioner that

he is a provisional taxpayer.

If you are over 65 and your income from employment, interest, rental or dividends is less than R80 000 per year, you do not need to register as a provisional taxpayer. This threshold will increase to R120 000 from 1 March 2010.

There are a number of other rules which may exempt someone from paying provisional tax. These can be found on the website: www.sars.org.za and on the document IRP12.

Guidelines are available from a local SARS office.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

3. PAYMENT OF INCOME TAX Employers are required to deduct tax from the salary of those employees who qualify on a monthly, weekly or for tnightly basis and pay it over to SARS. The deduction is determined by using tables issued by SARS and consists of a Pay As You Earn (PAYE) por tion, as well as a Standard Income Tax on Employees (SITE) por tion.

SITE tax is applicable only to persons with an annual net remuneration of R60 000 and does not apply to directors. SARS has indicated that the SITE por tion will be discontinued in future.

4. ANNUAL INCOME TAX RETURNS All taxpayers with an income of more than R120 000 per year must submit a tax return to SARS on an annual basis.

This can be done by completing forms ITR12 for individuals and submitting it manually (before 18 September), or electronically (before 20 November). Form IT14 is used for businesses and must be submitted 12 months after the financial year end.

5. TURNOVER TAX FOR SMALL BUSINESSES In 2009 the government introduced a simplified tax system for any type of business with an annual turnover of less than R1 million. This tax is a substitute for VAT, provisional tax, income tax, capital gains tax and secondary tax on companies.

It is calculated on a sliding scale and amounts to about 7% of annual turnover. Owners need to apply and register with SARS via Form TT01.

6. REGISTRATION FOR VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) As from 1 March 2010, any person or company who derives an income from the sale of goods or services that exceeds R1 million per year has to register for VAT. A person or company can also voluntarily register for VAT if the annual turnover is expected to exceed R50 000 from this date.

The application form VAT 101 can be downloaded from the SARS website or obtained from a local SARS office and must be submitted not later than 20 days from the date of liability.

Please note: The application must be accompanied by the following documents: •

A certified copy of the identity document (ID) of the vendor, or of the representative of the company or close corporation.

•

A copy of the registration certificate from the Registrar of Companies/Close Corporations.

•

A certified copy of the founding document, eg, a trust deed or partnership agreement. In the case of a verbal partnership, Form VAT 128 must be completed.

•

A latest bank statement and cancelled cheque.

• A letter of appointment as external bookkeeper,

accountant or auditor, if required.

•

A recent copy of a municipal account or lease as proof of address.

•

A business plan for a new business if it is expected that its annual turnover may exceed R1million.

•

Trading licences, such as a Jeweller’s Permit, Rough Dealer’s Licence or a Second-hand Licence, if applicable.

Once an application for VAT registration has been made, SARS will advise you of your registration number and will post a VAT registration cer tificate (VAT 103) to your postal address. Do not phone the SARS office asking for your VAT number - it will not be given verbally.

7. COLLECTION AND PAYMENT OF VAT Any business registered for VAT is required to collect VAT (currently 14% on all goods and services it sells) on behalf of the Receiver of Revenue. Every two months (one month, if your annual turnover exceeds R30 million) the difference between your “input VAT “,ie, the VAT that you have paid on all the VAT invoices from suppliers, and your “output VAT”, ie, the sum of all the VAT you have collected over the same period, must be paid to the Receiver. Your VAT payment (with Form VAT201) must reach SARS before the 25th day of the month which follows your two/ one-month tax period.

All prices that you advertise or display must include VAT.

8. VAT IMPLICATION OF BUYING IN SECOND-HAND DIAMONDS AND JEWELLERY •

When the public needs to dispose of diamond jewellery, they normally approach their retail jeweller. Retailers without a Second-hand Licence cannot purchase such items and have to refer their clients to a dealer in possession of such a licence.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

ISSUE 2

•

If the purchase price of a second-hand item exceeds R1 000, the dealer can claim a VAT input tax credit from SARS, provided he has completed Form VAT 264 in full.

These forms must be retained for five years.

•

Foreign visitors must pay VAT but can claim a refund, if the amount exceeds R250, when they leave the country with the items. They must lodge refund claims with the VAT Refund Administrator’s Offices which can be found at international airports, some border posts and commercial harbours. SARS will not pay back VAT on second-hand items which foreign visitors have purchased.

For further information visit: www.taxrefunds.co.za

9. REGISTRATION FOR SKILLS DEVELOPMENT LEVY (SDL) In 1999, the government established a compulsory levy scheme to fund education and training.The Department of Labour and our industry’s SETA (the Mining Qualifications Authority [MQA]) are responsible for the administration of the Skills Development Act No 97 of 1998. Monthly SDL payments must be paid to SARS. You are exempt from SDL if your annual payroll does not exceed R500 000.The SARS website provides the required information and registration forms.

III. THE DEPARTMENT OF LABOUR This government department controls the following aspects that may affect your business:

1. THE UNEMPLOYMENT INSURANCE FUND (UIF) If you have employees, you are required to register them and your business with the UIF and with SARS. UIF payments are partly deducted from employees’ salaries and an equal portion is paid by the employer, who has to make a monthly payment to SARS. The UIF will pay workers or their families when the worker becomes unemployed, cannot work due to illness, is on maternity or adoption leave or passes away. For step-by-step directions on registration and claims, visit: www.labour.gov.za.

All accidents that happen at work must be reported to the Compensation Fund using Form W.C1.2. Claims can be sent to The Compensation Commissioner, PO Box 955, Pretoria, 0001, or visit: www.services.gov.za/occupational accidents.

3. BARGAINING COUNCIL A Bargaining Council for the Precious Metals Industry operates in the Western Cape only. This statutory body consists of an equal representation from employers (via The Cape Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association [CJMA]) and the Goldsmiths’ Union. It deals with collective bargaining, solves labour disputes and can make proposals on labour policies and laws. Legislation (2007) requires Western Cape employers with more than 15 jewellery workers to be registered with the Bargaining Council and to pay a monthly levy.

IV. LOCAL MUNICIPALITIES 1. BUSINESS LICENCES You need to apply for a business licence from your local municipality. They will supply information on application procedures and the different health and safety regulations that apply to your business.

You must expect that the Department of Health will inspect your premises for its compliance with the National Health and Safety Act. Fire extinguishers have to be serviced annually and positioned according to municipal regulations.

2. SIGNBOARDS AND NAMEPLATES Before erecting a signboard, you need to apply for permission to do so from your local municipality. The application form is available from your municipality and needs to be accompanied by a scale drawing of the intended nameplate, etc.

2. THE COMPENSATION FOR OCCUPATIONAL INJURIES AND DISEASES ACT, 1993 (Previously known as Workmen’s Compensation) A government programme provides insurance to employers and employees if they are injured in the workplace.You need to register for this with the Department of Labour.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

DIAMOND DEALERS

SEPTEMBER 2019 VS SEPTEMBER 2018

RETAILERS

0% BETTER

0% BETTER

0%

0%

SAME

SAME

SAME

0%

100%

100%

Best-selling diamond size

0% BETTER

WORSE

100%

WORSE

WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

Watch sales

0,5ct WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time

Foot traffic

General sales compared with last year this time

0%

Breakdown of retail sales

0%

BETTER

BETTER

0%

0%

SAME

SAME

100%

100%

WORSE

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

29%

64%

7%

WORSE

MANUFACTURERS

20%

0%

20%

BETTER

BETTER

BETTER

0%

60%

20%

SAME

80% WORSE

SAME

40% WORSE

SAME

60% WORSE

(Above): Wholesale trade sales at constant 2015 prices – All information supplied by http:// www.statssa.gov.za

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

27

Our reputation for integrity and excellence as well as our longstanding history as one of the world’s leading refiners has seen Rand Refinery receive global accreditation, international referee status and ISO certification.

Rand Refinery is committed to internationally accepted responsible sourcing practices and as such is in conformance with the LBMA Responsible Gold and Silver Guidance and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High Risk Areas.

Not only do we ensure we meet the strictest standards we set for ourselves, our certified gold and silver chain-of-custody is independently audited to heed to the requirements set by independent bodies and recently enacted legislation.

randrefinery.com

SCENE AROUND

Jewellex Africa welcomes back Business Breakfast THE GUEST SPEAKER AT THIS YEAR’S Jewellex Africa Business Breakfast, sponsored

by Rand Refinery, was Howard Sackstein.

Having travelled to 76 countries, attended university with Barack Obama and played with some of the world’s greatest leaders and thinkers, Sackstein shared seven life lessons that people have taught him along the way.

This year’s well-attended Business Breakfast was held on Sunday, 6 October, in Café Nala at the Sandton Convention Centre during Jewellex Africa.

“We thank Rand Refinery for rekindling the Business Breakfast, which has not been held at Jewellex for some years,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

29

DIAMONDS

Antwerp bans lab-grown sales from trading floor The Federation of Belgian Diamond Bourses has introduced a ban on lab-grown sales in Antwerp’s four trading halls.

WHILE SYNTHETICS TRADING IS STILL RARE in Antwerp, the Federation of Belgian Diamond Bourses took action in September because it views the exchanges as promoters of natural diamonds, explained Willy Rotti, President of the federation. Lab-grown will still be permitted in companies’ offices, where most transactions occur.

“There wasn’t [previously] a formal order that the trade of lab-grown diamonds was allowed or forbidden in the exchange, so we made it very clear: no trading of lab-grown in the trading hall,” Rotti told Rapaport News.

The federation placed notices dated 19 September in the bourses to inform members and plans to reprimand those who fail to comply.

“We don’t have a precedent, but I imagine there’ll be a fine and a sanction for a period,” Rotti added.

Antwerp has four diamond exchanges: the Antwerp Diamond Bourse, the Antwerpsche Diamantkring (for rough trading), the Dia-

mond Club of Antwerp and the Vrije Diamanthandel. The Federation of Belgian Diamond Bourses can make decisions on behalf of those exchanges, as its board includes representatives of all those groups.

The Antwerp bourses have members who trade in both lab-grown and natural diamonds, but none that are purely synthetics dealers. Letting in such companies in the future would help the bourses maintain control over the market, as they would have the power to punish those who sell under false pretences, Rotti said. However, he noted that it would also create an odd situation in which there are members prohibited from doing business in the trading halls, but still having access to the offices and other benefits.

Exchanges around the world have been debating how to deal with companies that wish to sell lab-grown. The Bharat Diamond Bourse in Mumbai is considering lifting its ban

on synthetics, with India’s Natural Diamond Monitoring Committee currently assessing how to regulate the change and ensure segregation, Anoop Mehta, President of the BDB, told Rapaport News.

“We won’t consider anything unless we’re really clear about the guidelines and rules, because we don’t want to get a bad reputation for the industry,” Mehta pointed out.

The Israel Diamond Exchange held discussions about the sector this year. In May, the Dubai Diamond Exchange hosted the first tender of rough synthetic diamonds to take place at any member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB). The WFDB gives its members independence to decide on these issues themselves, its President, Ernie Blom, said at the time.

In January 2017, the Federation of Belgian Diamond Bourses adopted the WFDB’s rules requiring clear descriptions on invoices and memo documents, and agreed to take disciplinary action against companies which fail to comply. – Rapaport

Exchanges around the world have been debating how to deal with companies that wish to sell lab-grown. The Bharat Diamond Bourse in Mumbai is considering lifting its ban on synthetics, with India’s Natural Diamond Monitoring Committee currently assessing how to regulate the change and ensure segregation.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

31

LOCAL JEWELLERY DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING

Local manufacturers and designers receiving international attention Kevin Friedman, local jewellery designer and Director of Design at Frankli Wild African Classics, was astonished when he accidentally came across a photo of Queen Elizabeth wearing a piece of jewellery he had designed. He is one of many South African jewellery designers and manufacturers whose work is receiving local and international attention.

WHEN FRIEDMAN SPOTTED THE QUEEN wearing one of his unique designs, he tweeted: “I’m freaking out! I’ve just seen my jewellery on Queen Elizabeth! This was a commission from the Botswana government; they wanted a brooch, but I never asked for whom – and bam!”

Friedman has captivated both the local and international jewellery trade with his one-ofa-kind pieces, which use an innovative combination of high-caratage gemstones and precious metals with everyday “found objects”.

Friedman is a Renaissance man who draws on the world around him for inspiration and creativity.

He was paging through a Marie Claire magazine when he saw the Queen wearing his brooch.

“When I was advised to design a brooch for this unknown [to me] recipient, I was happy, because brooches are among my favourite jewellery items. I Googled the national products of Botswana, which were listed as cattle, millet and diamonds. I thought it through and just drew a ripe grain head on its leaves. They asked me to colour it in and forgot about it,” Friedman told JoziStyle. “I used recycled gold and the diamonds were all custom-cut to fit the drawing in the exact proportions. Getting the design approved took a few days. Then I was given three weeks to manufacture the piece.”

Friedman’s highly original, fresh approach

to contemporary jewellery design was also evident in the spectacular US$16 million Ponahalo necklace created for the Geneva-based Steinmetz Group. This extraordinary necklace – composed of a 316,15ct diamond which was cut into five stones, combined with beads and

276 safety pins and made into a Marie Antoinette-style necklace – débuted at the Cannes Film Festival in 2007.

A lifelong fascination with the distinctive arts and crafts of SA has provided valuable inspiration for his work and he has been involved in meaningful community development projects with local crafters.

Proof of this is his well-known Ndebele bead and diamond choker, modelled by South African-born Hollywood star Charlize Theron, which garnered Friedman a De Beers Diamond International Award in 2000.

His custom-made pieces have also been featured in the “ultimate catalogue” – the Neiman Marcus Christmas book – as well as in Gumps and Woman’s Day magazines. In addition, he created a line of beadwork Christmas decorations for the Designers’ Guild in London and designed a line of pewter and wooden desktop items for Tiffany & Co in New York.

Friedman travels extensively for both discipline and inspiration. He makes custom-designed pieces for corporate and independent clients all over the world, although his focus is on the USA. He has done trunk shows from New York to Pittsburgh to the Napa Valley.

On the home front, his beadwork – particularly his iconic Ndebele Christmas tree-top angel, for which he won an award from the SA government – is now appearing in the eighth definitive issue of SA Stamps. “My angel will be flying all over the world!” he laughs.

Another highlight was his collaborative exhibition with Apple at its iStore in Johannesburg which was a resounding success. Each piece of art and jewellery was one-of-a-kind using Apple components, now technologically redundant, but revived through art. It was a unique concept.

Friedman has been Director of Design at Frankli Wild™ African Classics in Johannesburg since 1989 and has built up a blue-chip clientele. He is one of a seven-generation line of jewellers. His grandfather Jack Friedman, who was born in Riga, Latvia, set up a jewellery manufacturing factory in Johannesburg in 1934. Jack was also a founding member of the SA Jewellery Council.

Source: www.frankliwild.com

I was briefed that it was for an elderly world figure to whom Parliament wished to present a token of appreciation and that I should design an item of jewellery – preferably a brooch.

32

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Zenith’s Defy Inventor Zenith has been showcasing its Defy collection as a platform for the brand’s renewed emphasis on advanced technology and materials, including its single-piece oscillator that beats at an extremely high frequency of 18 Hz or 129 600 vph, compared with the usual 4 Hz or 28 800 vph.

This year, the watch with the super-oscillator is no longer a limited-edition concept and will be produced in a run of several hundred pieces.

The revolutionary single-piece oscillator replaces the traditional 30-piece standard regulating organ and is made of silicone. The case is made of lightweight titanium and the textured bezel is made of Aeronith, an aluminium-polymer composite which is three times lighter than titanium.

The dial is open-worked to resemble a stylised propeller, with blades evoking the Zenith star.

Functions include hours, minutes and central seconds with a stop-second mechanism.

Its titanium case is 44 mm in diameter and 14,5 mm thick, with an Aeronith bezel, a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and a sapphire crystal case-back. and is water-resistant to 50 m.

A black rubber strap with midnight blue alligator coating features a titanium doublefolding clasp.

Zenith is a brand which has been bringing style and substance to the wrists of watchmaking cognoscenti all over the world for more than 150 years. Founded in Le Locle in 1865 by vision-

ary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot, the Manufacture Zenith gained swift recognition for the precision of its chronometers, which has won it 2 333 chronometry prizes since the company was started: an absolute record.

Having earned fame thanks to its legendary El Primero calibre – an integrated automatic column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 1969 and endowed with a high frequency of 36 000 vibrations per hour, which ensures short-time measurements accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second – the Manufacture Zenith has since developed over 600 movement variations. Zenith remains one of a select group of traditional luxury watch brands producing all their movements in-house, the industry’s ultimate accolade of quality.

Engaged in several vintage territories such as classic cars, Zenith currently offers a collection of exclusive, finely crafted timepieces designed for sartorially minded men and women.

WE HAVE MOVED TO NEW PREMISES Now conveniently situated in BlueBird shopping centre in Birnam (near Melrose Arch)

Breitling releases Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk Editions Three new Breitling Aviator 8 watches honour Curtiss Wright, a renowned American aircraft manufacturer and the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, its most famous plane.

The P-40 Warhawks were manufactured between 1938 and 1944. With the release of two chronographs, one featuring a Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 and an understated three-hand watch, Breitling makes it clear that aviation remains an essential part of its brand DNA. These three new watches – the Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk, the Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk and the Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk – salute a partnership between two true aviation pioneers.

With their modern flair, the Aviator 8 watches are sure to appeal to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Besides out goldmsith service, we are proud to now also offer additional services to the trade

WATCH REPAIRS TO THE TRADE Studio: 011 616 5328 Cell: 071 193 1872

JEWELLEX AFRICA

Jewellex Africa rewards loyal supporters

34

THE 2019 EXHIBITOR LONG-STANDING Awards were presented for the first time at this year’s Jewellex Africa. These awards were introduced in honour of those exhibitors that have been loyal supporters of the show for over 10 years. “These awards are to thank those companies for their contribution and support over the years,” explains Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA and Chairperson of the Jewellex Committee.

Recipients received their certificates at the 2019 Jewellex Africa Cocktail Function, sponsored by Anglo American Platinum, which was held on 6 October.

The following 24 companies received this prestigious award: Anna-B Jewellery Blue Star Gems Hong Kong Bluestar Global Brinks SA Cape Precious Metals CJR Gift Sales Gemfields Jenni Gault International Jewellery Design Jewel Tec Jeweller’s Network Lipman & Son Metal Concentrators Nick the Pearlman Oro Africa Pneuma Jewellers Protea Diamonds Real Gold Wholesalers SA Jewellery News magazine SM Watch Wholesale Something Special in Jewellery Tshwane University of Technology Ungar Brothers Unity Diamonds Distributors Versitrade

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Isabella Jewellers and Refiners was established in 2008 as a jewellery manufacturer and diamond merchant. Today, 21 years later, the company continues to grow and develop and is a registered and licensed precious metals refiner.

Isabella Jewellers and Refiners is one of the largest, independently-owned precious metal refiners in Gauteng and boasts an environmentally friendly recycling plant and state of the art laboratory.

Address: 98 Naginton Road, Germiston | Tel: 011 568 2261 | Email: info@isabella-refi ners.co.za | Website: www.isabella-refi ners.co.za

JEWELLERY DESIGN

The 2019 Jewellery Council Collection Award-winners were announced on 7 October at this year’s Jewellex Africa in the CPM Chill Lounge.

The prize-giving ceremony was presented by Dave Newman, Chairperson of the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA (JMASA).

THE THEME FOR THE 2019 JEWELLERY Collection Award competition was “A Journey Through a World of Colours”. Entrants were invited to design and manufacture a pair of earrings which can be sold commercially. No other variations were accepted.

This year’s overall winner in the Handmade Category was Khutso Mahlatlele from the Tshwane University of Technology (TUT), while the first runner-up was Charmaine Khumalo (also from TUT) and the second runner-up was Ilona Stichling from Rare Earth Creations.

In the CAD Category, the overall winner was Hesti Wade from Atlin Jewellery, while the first runner-up was Tiaan Koopman from Design @50 and the second runner-up was

(Above, from left): Overall winner (Handmade Category) – Khutso Mahlatlele (TUT) and overall winner (CAD Category) – Hesti Wade (Altin Jewellery).

Jewellery Council Collection Awardwinners announced Mercia Beukes (also from Design @ 50).

Entrants were required to submit a fully manufactured pair of earrings (no renderings of technical drawings were required), a description of the item and the materials utilised and a short paragraph on the inspiration for the design within the theme.

Industry experts in manufacturing, as well as the media and fashion industry, were selected to conduct the judging of the competition.

This year’s overall winners each received a trophy of excellence sponsored by the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project, a certificate of excellence

from the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA), a jeweller’s bench toolkit with manufacturing-specific tools, including findings and cubics sponsored by Cape Precious Metals (CPM) and a cash prize of R7 000 sponsored

by Metal Concentrators. The first runners-up each received a certificate of excellence from the JCSA, as well as silver and findings worth R5 000 sponsored by CPM. The top 10 winners and runners-up will all receive free membership of the JMASA for one year, as well as free access to the JCSA Trade Test.

Entrants were required to submit a fully manufactured pair of earrings (no renderings of technical drawings were required), a description of the item and the materials utilised and a short paragraph on the inspiration for the design within the theme.

(Above, from left): First runner-up (Handmade Category) – Charmaine Khumalo (TUT); second runner-up (Handmade Category) – Ilona Stichling (Rare Earth Creations); first runner-up (CAD Category) – Tiaan Koopman (Design @ 50) and second runner-up (CAD Category) – Mercia Beukes (Design @ 50).

36

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Book your spot in SA Jewellery News’ December issue

edition

Leading industry publication for the diamond and jewellery industry in Southern Africa, SA Jewellery News, will celebrate the beauty and lustre of platinum in its December edition

What makes platinum special?

Because of its beauty and value, platinum jewellery has always been given as a special expression of love.

SA Jewellery News December will feature images and detailed descriptions of the 2019 PlatAfrica winning pieces as well as pictures taken on the evening of the stylish gala event. The issue will also feature “A River of Platinum” written by renowned industry writer, Michael Pryke.

To advertise in this edition, which will also include the popular SA Jewellery News desk calendar for 2020, contact Ian Starnes on e-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za or tel: (011) 883-4627

DID YOU KNOW? We offer our TAILOR-MADE media packages to suite your BUDGET. Contact SA Jewellery News on tel: 011 883 4627 for more information.

Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd | T: 011 883 4627 | F: 011 783 2677 | www.isikhova.co.za

THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST

Positivity toolbox essentials: A sense of urgency Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.

AS 2019 ROLLS TOWARDS a close, does your business or team need to create a sense of urgency or a hypothetical crisis for the last stretch? Creating a crisis is not meant to freak employees out and shove them into a negative spiral of fear and apathy. Instead, it is a tool to get people to re-focus and re-invigorate themselves to swim against the psychological stream of winding down and coasting to the end of the year. It means taking time out to envisage some scenarios and their outcomes.

Taking my cue, again, from Harvard business professor John P Kotter, creating a crisis gets us to re-adjust; to think specifically

38

and purposefully; to calculate options and consequences; to understand importance; to align operational efficiencies and effectiveness – no matter how big or small. Most importantly, though, it is used to initiate changes; to allow people to follow a new direction or initiative and establish a new habit, regardless of the time of year.

So how do you establish a crisis and a sense of urgency? Start with a reality check, a brutally honest analysis of what is currently happening in the company/team/behaviour/markets/ attitudes (ie, get real!). Follow this up with a dialogue about the projected consequences of the required action or inaction, related to the “crisis” in question.

Here is a brief example. I was facilitating for one of the world’s leading retailers and as the senior executive closed the two-day conference, he ran through a few highlighted points from the conference sessions. In one of his points, he created a simple sense of urgency by mentioning the lack of discipline shown during the sessions by employees answering calls, doing other “important” work and the like. He went on to make the link between internal discipline and behaviour having a direct effect on external behaviour and then asked the delegates what the consequence of a lack of discipline internally

would be out in the marketplace, in front of their customers. This made the delegates refocus. What really strengthened the incident was that this was a large conference of senior leaders. The senior executive knew that habits and culture cascade from the top tiers of management and was not afraid to establish a small, but potent sense of urgency.

Another simple example was a manager appraising an employee’s poor performance.

The manager created a sense of crisis by telling the employee that he was on his way out of the organisation because of his continued lacklustre performance – but added that if he really wanted to keep his job, then he (the manager) would do everything he could to help him get back on track. This woke the employee up!

However, creating a sense of urgency should not only focus on negatives. Its power and effectiveness lie in stimulating thinking and action, sandwiched with positive reinforcement, motivation and re-focused energy.

It is especially powerful and relevant in times of proactive change, when things are progressing well and business is booming.

So while everyone around us is winding down, let us wind up with even more vigour, focus and passion. Here’s to the best last stretch you have ever had!

Creating a sense of urgency should not only focus on negatives. Its power and effectiveness lie in stimulating thinking and action, sandwiched with positive reinforcement.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

LITTLE GEMS

The oldest gemstone in the world Pearls have been prized as jewels for longer than any cut stone. They are beautiful as they are – no need for any further embellishment – with their intense lustre and iridescence emanating from within. Pearls are the oldest gemstones in the world and have been cherished throughout history. They were believed to be the tears of the gods. Alice Weil investigates how these natural wonders (especially the black variety) have been treasured for centuries in many cultures.

LUSTROUS BLACK PEARLS WERE ONCE SO rare that they were considered the “Pearls of Queens”, sought-after because they are larger and have a more brilliant lustre. Royalty has always had a penchant for black pearls, which are regarded as the most valuable gem material. Catherine the Great of Russia owned a black pearl necklace and Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon II, created a fashion for black pearls when she wore a three-strand necklace of them for her wedding in 1853. Portraits of Queen Isabella of Spain, too, who reigned from 1880-1904, show her wearing a singlestrand black pearl necklace.

The oyster that produces these mystical gems from the blue lagoons is the Pinctada margaritifera, also known as the blacklip oyster. The gem’s degree of darkness depends on the darkness of the oyster’s shell, as well as the black organic substance in the pearl and the mineral content of the surrounding seawater. To call it black, though, is slightly misleading, for as it is produced by nature, it can vary, ranging from silver to dark grey or black in its body colour. Dark grey is the colour best known for emanating from Pinctada margaritifera, due to the same colour on the inside of its shell, which has an incandescent glow.

Included in today’s colour range is a vibrant peacock green.

These pearls are cultivated today mostly around the islands of French Polynesia and have become their

40

largest export. Known as Tahitian pearls, these are in tones of green, pink, blue, silver and yellow. A true black is rare, dark and exotic, and is considered to be one of the most desirable of all pearl varieties, growing close to the lip of the oyster. These particular oysters are rather large, ranging from approximately 8-18 mm. A Tahitian pearl grows larger than the average pearl.

It also comes in a variety of shapes, from round or near-round to drop-shaped, baroque, button and circled.

The culturing process involves inserting a bead (which is a piece of mantle culled from a mollusc shell) into the gonad, or reproductive organ of the mature oyster mollusc. It takes two years for an oyster to mature enough to begin producing a pearl. Inserted with the bead is a piece of mantle tissue from a donor mollusc, which influences the colour of the pearl produced, with the body colour usually enriched by at least one overtone. These pearl farming enterprises are no longer confined to small groups of atolls and are now commercialised.

Tahitian pearls are relative newcomers to the pearl world and were only popularised early in the mid-1900s. They have since become some of the most sought-after – and most expensive – pearls in the world. Because of their vast colour range, it is an enormous task sorting through thousands of pearls to create a matching strand.

The pearls are sorted according to size by being passed through a sieve. The darker the colour, the more valuable the pearl.

They are considered the second-most valuable commercially farmed pearls in the world, since they come by their dark colour naturally, unlike black freshwater and black akoya pearls, which have been irradiated or dyed. (The thinnest nacre allowed by the French Polynesian law of exports is 0,8 mm.) Despite their commonly used name, they do not come from Tahiti island, which is the main trading post for the atolls that produce them.

DID YOU KNOW

The elegant watch Alice wears every day was given to her by her good friend, Raymond Weil, founder of the world-famous Swiss watchmaking company.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2019

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery.

TM

TM

www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433