SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • November 2023

SA

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Collaborating on traceability solution

The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair is back!

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CO N T E N T S

contents 9. NEWS

• Rand Refinery's Silver and Gold Mentorship Programme holds successful open day • De Beers moves forward on Botswana diamond deal • EGL SA supports animals in need • Pandora raises revenue targets amid strong performance • WDC President stresses importance of ESG principles and equitable opportunity • Third +100ct diamond unearthed at Letšeng this year

14. PLATINUM AS AN INNOVATOR AND VALUE-CREATOR Platinum Guild International staged a landmark conference on platinum’s position as an important innovator and premium value-creator

18. COVER FEATURE Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both private clients and the trade

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

CO N T E N T S

20. THE HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR IS BACK! The 42nd Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair made a muchanticipated return to the physical format in September

25. METCON WELCOMES LIPMAN & SON MetCon has announced the conclusion of a transaction with the Lipman family to bring the two businesses together under the MetCon banner

26. A PASSION FOR JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONES JPPE Manufacturing Jewellers MD Kyle Gilson takes SAJN on a walk down Memory Lane

28. TRACR AND SARINE TO COLLABORATE ON DIAMOND TRACEABILITY SOLUTION Industry leaders in diamond provenance and traceability are bringing together their expertise to develop an effective and scalable solution

29. COLOURED STONES AND ORGANIC MATERIAL Pearling is embedded in the culture and traditions of everyday life in the United Arab Emirates, especially in the trading centre of Julfar

37. CASIO HOSTS WATCH SHOW IN JOHANNESBURG AND CAPE TOWN The Casio Watch Show was held in Johannesburg and Cape Town and received a steady stream of visitors

38. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT Over-emphasising quantity of output over quality often results in rushed work and compromised solutions

44. BORN IN AFRICA A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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Simplicity is the Ultimate Sophistication

Editor's note

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

IT IS HARD TO BELIEVE WE HAVE ALREADY arrived at our second-last issue of 2023.

As we started planning special editions and discussing possible feature articles for 2024, it was wonderful to see again the passion and enthusiasm from my SAJN colleagues for industry.

Many people stick to jobs they have held for ages, not because they enjoy them, but simply because they are in a comfort zone. The fear of change, the allure of job security and the weight of responsibilities conspire to keep many shackled to the familiar, even when it no longer resonates with their passions.

I am indeed blessed, as I can honestly say that I find genuine joy in what I do – and

beginnings. MetCon’s immense passion for and commitment to the industry have always been inspiring and the refinery shares its latest exciting news, as it welcomes Lipman & Son, which have been serving SA’s jewellery industry since 1948, under its banner. Casio SA missed engaging with its clients so much during Covid-19 and the temporary cancellation of Jewellex that it started hosting the Casio Watch Show in Johannesburg and Cape Town. This year’s event was again a great success, while Rand Refinery showed its dedication once more by hosting an open day for its Silver and Gold Mentorship Programme for 2024. It was an opportunity for all in attendance to meet the

being part of a team (and an industry) who are passionate and enthusiastic plays a huge role in that. One only has to join any industry WhatsApp groups – such as the Jewellery Manufacturers’ one, with its more than 300 participants – to feel and see this.

In this issue, we talk to people who undoubtedly truly enjoy what they do.

Johann, Suvette and Christian at Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery are three such individuals. So is Kyle Gilson from JPPE Manufacturing Jewellery, who takes us on a trip down Memory Lane as he reminisces on the history of the company and its humble

team and learn more about the support and initiatives offered by the programme.

As always, please share your stories, milestones, initiatives, thoughts and suggestions with us. We value your input and enjoy sharing it with our readers.

Thank you for your continued support and we look forward to connecting with you again in our final issue of the year, our 2023 holiday edition.

Until then, happy reading!

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales:

ON THE COVER

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Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

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SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both the trade and private clients. Established in 2008

by Johann Claassens and his wife Suvette, it is a business built on passion and dedication. Piccolo does it all – or anything and everything in between, from CAD designs using the latest technology to 3D wax models for which it has a number of machines that it updates regularly. Piccolo casts in platinum and all kinds of gold alloys – especially high palladium, white gold alloys and silver. It also does semi-finishes (finishing pieces to a certain point), as well as total finishes (where jewellers can collect the finished pieces from it). In addition, Piccolo does stone setting for the trade. For more information, contact Piccolo on e-mail: info@piccolo-jewellery.co.za or tel: 083-396-6178.

ADDRESS: Private Bag X46218, Belle Ombre, 0142 TEL: 012 326 8348 / 012 328 5996 | FAX: 012 325 7097 EMAIL: smwatch@iafrica.com | WEBSITE: www.smwatch.co.za

NEWS

EGL SA supports animals in need In support of World Animal Welfare Day, an annual event with the aim of celebrating animal rights and welfare throughout the world, independent gemmological laboratory EGL South Africa donated a striking deep purple amethyst to be auctioned at a local animal shelter’s annual fundraiser. Amethyst is known around the world for its remarkable beauty, deep colour and minimum inclusion.

EGL SA MD Brenda Rosenthal said that due to her and her colleagues’ love of animals, they had to lend a helping hand. “Animal welfare organisations are gearing up for an influx of stray animals coming through their doors as the festive season approaches and we hope

the money raised from the stone will help those in need.”

Rosenthal encouraged other businesses in the industry to show their support for animal welfare as well by helping an animal shelter or welfare organisations in any way possible ahead of the holiday season. “By volunteering, donating, adopting or even just sharing information on social media, our industry can make a difference in the lives of animals in need,” she said.

EGL SA specialises in diamond, gemstone and jewellery identification, grading and certification.

De Beers moves forward on Botswana diamond deal The government of Botswana and the De Beers Group have announced the signing of the heads of terms for the new 10-year sales agreement for Debswana’s rough diamond production through to 2033, and the 25-year extension of the Debswana mining licences through to 2054.

The heads of terms provide further detail and clarity to the commercial and operational aspects of the agreement in principle between the two partners announced on 30 June 2023, including the Diamonds for Development Fund, the apportionment of Debswana supply, economic arrangements, talent development, beneficiation supply and value chain development, among others. This

is another significant milestone for Botswana and De Beers as the partners continue working together to finalise the new agreements.

“The new chapter we’re embarking on will see more skills development and job creation for the Batswana and more diamond beneficiation locally. As we celebrate our nation’s journey on this 57th

Independence Day, this important milestone heralds an exciting new era in Botswana’s development,” said Lefoko Maxwell Moagi, Botswana’s Minister of Minerals and Energy.

“We in De Beers are proud of our long partnership in Botswana and are excited about the role we can play in its future,” said Al Cook, CEO of the De Beers Group. “We’re very pleased to have signed the heads of terms for an agreement that will deliver large new investments, supporting the country’s development aspirations. The agreement also underpins De Beers’ long-term leadership in the diamond industry, securing our equal share in the world’s greatest diamond resources for decades to come.”

Business disclaimers and responsibilities for local industry The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) is in the process of creating a recommended trade practice or “understanding” that jewellers, importers, refiners and wholesalers can use as a guideline when doing business with other trade companies. “It will be a guide on responsibilities and to look out for unwarranted incidents and issues to protect a member’s business,” explains JCSA CEO, Lorna Lloyd.

“It isn't our intention to put stricter conditions in

In terms of the above, the JCSA has invited its members to provide scenarios of issues which may affect a business that it can include in this document. “It will be amazing to include guidelines for all sectors, for example, dealings between jewellery importers and retail jewellers, refineries and manufacturing jewellers, watch importers and retail jewellers, etc,” says Lloyd.

The JCSA will consult the Consumer Protection Act as well as any international

place, but merely a guide to cover your business as a precaution in the occurrence of an unlikely event. You may then include various options of disclaimers on your invoices/receipts or, alternatively, enter into a formal agreement with your customer,” she says.

resources for assistance and has asked its members for input in order for the council to debate and possibly obtain legal advice when preparing the document.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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NEWS

WDC President stresses importance of ESG principles and equitable opportunity World Diamond Council (WDC) President Feriel Zerouki emphasised the heightened importance of responsibility, sustainability and provenance in the jewellery industry, specifically because its products are used to celebrate important life moments. She was speaking at the opening ceremony of the 2023 congress of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), which took place from 3-5 October in Jaipur, India.

“This is why industry bodies such as CIBJO, with its focus on consumer confidence, responsible sourcing and sustainability initiatives, are so important,” she said, “and it’s why events such as this one are so vital to

ments by the governments of G7 countries to restrict the import and trade of rough and polished diamonds originally mined in Russia.

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, Yoram Dvash, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses and Vipul Shah, Chairperson of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, all voiced their support for the protocol, on which they had been consulted during its formulation. They joined the heads of other associations, such as the Responsible Jewellery Council, who also backed the industry proposal.

The proposed plan, which has been

our futures.”

Later that same day, during a panel discussion devoted to the promotion of responsible environmental, social and governance practices in the jewellery supply chain, Zerouki spoke of the need to foster fairness among industry players in order to achieve ESG goals.

“To be ethical, we need to be equitable,” she said. She emphasised her point by giving an example of two people, one short and the other tall, who pay the same price for concert tickets, even though the taller one is likely to see the performance completely, while the other’s view will probably be impeded.

“True equality exists only if opportunity’s equitable,” she said.

During the opening session of the congress, leaders of key jewellery and gemstone associations voiced their support for the G7 Diamond Protocol, the industry proposal facilitated by the WDC to meet new require-

presented to the G7 governments, builds on recognised effective blockchain-backed solutions and third-party auditing schemes, and proposes new accessible solutions designed not to hinder compliant smaller and microenterprises from accessing the G7 markets.

These include artisanal and small-scale miners, as well as members of the cottage industry and trade. The G7 markets together account for more than 60% of annual global diamond jewellery sales by value.

The G7 Diamond Protocol follows the theme of equality and equity and aims to put forward a comprehensive approach that will not favour one commercial centre over another. Most importantly, it is an effective solution that will do what the G7 governments are seeking to achieve – prohibit Russian diamonds from entering their markets. The solution facilitated by the WDC is designed to be fair and accessible to all.

Third +100ct diamond unearthed at Letšeng this year

topping the 100ct mark, that supply has been declining, leaving the UK-based miner at well below its long-term average of eight +100ct recoveries a year. Last year, the miner retrieved only four diamonds of that magnitude, as opposed to six in 2021 and 16 in 2020.

Letšeng is known as the highest dollar per carat kimberlite diamond mine in the world, but the lack of special-size stones has hurt the company’s revenue, with sales falling 28% year-on-year to US$71,8 million in the first six months of 2023.

The mine is 70%-owned by Gem Diamonds and 30% by the Lesotho government.

Gem Diamonds has recovered its third +100ct diamond of the year at its Letšeng mine in Lesotho. The miner discovered the 101,96ct gem-quality, type IIa diamond on 28 September, it said.

In July it recovered a 163,91ct yellow diamond and in March it recovered a 122ct D colour type II white diamond.

While Letšeng was previously known for producing high-quality rough diamonds

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NEWS

Rand Refinery's Silver and Gold Mentorship Programme holds successful open day

Rough Diamond Dealers of SA elects new Executive Committee

Rand Refinery hosted an open day for its Silver and Gold Mentorship Programme for 2024 on 6 October at the Rand Refinery Recreation Hall. It was an opportunity for all in attendance to meet the team and learn more about the support and initiatives offered by the programme.

The Silver and Gold Mentorship Programme is an enterprise development partnership between Rand Refinery, the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP), jewellery retailer NQ

and Precious Metals Regulator, which was initiated in 2021. The programme saw 18 SMMEs graduating from the class of 2021 and

Jewellers and industry body the SA Diamond

another 14 from the class of 2022.

The Rough Diamond Dealers Association of SA (RDDA) has announced its new Executive Committee for the ensuing year.

Jan Nortje has been elected Chairman, while Trevor Temkin, Ian Lutrin, Nash Parag, Lior Sitton, Pappie Mokoena, Claudia Bompani, Frank Hinda and Simon Mazibuko were elected committee members.

Pandora raises revenue targets amid strong performance Pandora has raised its sales expectations for the next few years, as investments in the brand and the expansion of its store network yield positive results.

The Danish jeweller predicts revenue reaching US$4,83-5,11 billion by 2026, a 2633% jump from its estimated 2023 forecast of US$3,83 billion, it said.

Pandora is aiming for organic growth of 7-9% over the next three years, comprising a 4-6% increase in like-for-like sales, and a network expansion of around 3%, it says.

The company notes that it has seen improvements since it first implemented its Phoenix strategy in 2021, referring to a multi-pronged plan to boost the brand, grow its core markets and enhance the customer experience.

In that vein, it plans to accelerate its network expansion: it will open 225-275 concept stores from 2024-2026 and 175-225 Pandora-owned shop-in-shops.

“We’ve fundamentally changed the way we

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

work and the organisation’s much stronger,” says Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik. “It’s clear that Pandora is a very different company today. This solid foundation, combined with a proven strategy that will build Pandora into a full jewellery brand, will now allow us to lift our growth target. It’s time to take Phoenix to the next

level and our new financial targets reflect our confidence in the future.”

Pandora’s main focus will be on expanding in the American market, where it sees “ample growth opportunities”. It expects to surpass its original target by 2025, forecasting revenue of US$1,33 billion.

It will also seek to broaden its presence in China, having recently relaunched the brand in Shanghai following prolonged Covid-19 disruptions. However, while the company sees significant long-term growth potential on the mainland, it will be “a longer journey than originally anticipated”, it says.

Pandora’s shares rose 16% following the announcement.

– Rapaport

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NEWS

JCSA to create database of past employees The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) previously circulated a communication stating that it has created a database of past employees who have resigned or have been dismissed on the grounds of performance/suspicious/ criminal circumstances. JCSA members have

the opportunity to contact the council when employing new staff to learn if they have been employed in the trade and whether they were dismissed or resigned.

For legal reasons, the council will not request or provide the reason for the dismissal.

Members will, however, be able to contact the previous employer to obtain a reference.

This service is only available to members of the council and only those members who have provided information will be allowed

access to the database.

The council has requested the following information to be provided, which will be recorded on the database: company name, name of employee, date employed, reason for resignation/termination, poor performance/ criminal activity/suspicious activity and date of resignation/termination.

For more information, contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: lornal@jewellery. org.za / elsad@jewellery.org.za.

De Beers expects oversupply to continue for now Inventory in the diamond trade will remain high for the time being amid reduced retail demand, but the market will eventually

at US$87 billion in 2022 as strong growth in India and a slight increase in the USA offset a sharp decline in China as a result of Covid-

6% in Canada and was down 27% in the Democratic Republic of Congo. In Angola and South Africa, production was flat. Meanwhile,

rebound, De Beers has predicted.

“While there have been some positive signals in some countries, with US inflation continuing to fall and the economy proving more resilient than anticipated, 2023 consumer demand for natural diamonds is expected to be below the record levels seen in 2021 and 2022,” the miner said in its annual Diamond Insight Report, which it published recently.

“While high polished-diamond inventories in the midstream are likely to remain elevated in the near term, they are expected to fall back to normal levels in the medium term as trading conditions recover.”

Global diamond-jewellery demand was flat

19-related lockdowns, De Beers explained.

Demand rose 10% over 2019.

Demand for diamond jewellery increased 1,7% to US$47 billion in the USA and went up 8% to US$5 billion in India. In China, demand slid 11% to US$8,8 billion.

Global polished-diamond demand rose 0,3% to US$27,8 billion in 2022, De Beers estimated. In the USA, it increased 1% and in India, it gained 15%. Demand in China slipped 9%.

Meanwhile, global diamond production fell 2% in 2022 to 121 million carats, the miner continued. Output was up 5% in Russia and rose 4% in Botswana. Production decreased

global rough-diamond sales increased 8% year on year to US$17,2 billion. – Rapaport

TAG Heuer and Porsche are back at it Crafted in two thrilling steel and gold versions, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche honours the 60th anniversaries of two legends: the TAG Heuer Carrera and the Porsche 911.

The two icons came together in 2021 to celebrate their shared history. The partnership has led to several collaborations that perfectly capture their dedication to precision, innovation and design. Now they present yet another show-stopper: the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche.

United by their forays into the captivating world of motor racing, TAG Heuer and Porsche have joined forces to fuse automotive excellence with horological mastery. Rooted in the past, driven towards the future.

The classic, timeless style of the TAG Heuer

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

Carrera mirrors the legendary Porsche 911’s flawless proportions, graceful curves and spirited demeanour. Sixty years on, both racing icons are as immortal as ever.

The watch’s captivating visual references to the Porsche dashboards of the 1970s add a dynamic edge to this speed-driven timepiece.

The result is a passionate aesthetic homage to a racing legend.

Designed to measure short time intervals with impressive accuracy, the maison’s innovative TH20-08 movement mirrors the first Porsche 911’s, the Porsche 901’s, mythical acceleration from 0-100 km/h in 9,1 seconds.

Tel: +27 11 334 4527 Cell: +27 83 656 9013 Website: www.egl.co.za

R E S P O N S I B L E J E W E L L E RY

Platinum as an innovator and value-creator Platinum Guild International (PGI) took centre stage on day four of Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong, staging a landmark conference on future trends in jewellery and platinum’s position as an important innovator and premium value-creator in a jeweller’s business portfolio.

FROM A WEALTH OF IMPASSIONED SPEECHES delivered by key industry players at Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong last month, a prime takeaway was the precious metal’s unrivalled ability to meet growing consumer demand for sustainable, responsible jewellery.

The PGI conference was a resounding success, attracting more than 150 jewellery professionals at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. It was the first conference to be held by PGI at the influential Hong Kong jewellery show and a signal of the organisation’s continued mission to provide market support and intelligence to jewellery producers globally, specifically in the burgeoning China region. PGI also hosted a booth at the Jewellery Fair this year.

Nine speakers shared their insights on the theme of “Trends Shaping the Future of

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Jewellery: The Role of Platinum”, including international experts invited from the USA, the UK, Italy and China. They addressed such pertinent topics as consumers’ evolving tastes and desires and how they perceive value; technological innovation and the value it creates; the essential drive for sustainability and responsibility; and the progressive trend of platinum as the metal not only of choice, but also of goodwill which is helping to pave a better future for humankind.

Striving for a sustainable future Increased transparency in the jewellery supply chain as the world moves to more ethical and sustainable business models was central to speeches by Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewellery Confederation, Tiffany Stevens, CEO and General Counsel of the

(Above): Jewellery by Stephen Webster.

USA-headquartered Jewelers Vigilance Committee and Wesley Tucker, CEO of De Beers’ blockchain-based diamond-tracing platform Tracr. The majority of platinum used to make jewellery is produced according to robust sustainability standards and speakers stressed that more could and should be done to meet the greener expectations of the new generation. PGI contributed by hosting and co-ordinating the website responsibleplatinumjewellery.com. This showcases the sustainability initiatives of the leading producers in South Africa, who are actively driving a wide range of activities that put the environment and local communities

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

R E S P O N S I B L E J E W E L L E RY

at the heart of what they do, and provides additional links for jewellery consumers to explore this topic in further detail.

Benefits of platinum new technology breakthroughs Tony Chen, Anglo American’s Head of PGM Market Development for Asia-Pacific, Chloe Cunningham, Programme Manager: Precious Metals of next-generation alloy and process design technologies firm Alloyed and platinum expert Josh Helmich, CEO of the Helmich Luxury Group, were among the industry figures assembled who focused on the benefits for the jewellery sector of platinum’s increasing use in new industrial and green technologies. Platinum group metals’ enabling role in clean energy, emission control, sustainable chemistry and life-saving medical breakthroughs has the knock-on effect of boosting innovation in platinum. It also adds further lustre to platinum’s reputation as a feel-good material contributing to the betterment of society.

Conference speakers described how international luxury brands and small-scale producers in China could leverage these advancements in customised platinum alloys, alongside pioneering platinum innovation in powder metallurgy and additive manufacturing, to solve production issues, maximise their business potential and push novel platinum pieces onto the global jewellery market.

In his enlightening address, Yongwoon Sim, General Manager of China at the International Gemological Institute of China, emphasised the importance of diamonds and coloured

The majority of platinum used to make jewellery is produced according to robust sustainability standards and speakers stressed that more could and should be done to meet the greener expectations of the new generation.

gemstones – acknowledged by the industry as best set in strong, resilient platinum – in the future of jewellery in his country and the necessity of product diversity for sustainable growth. The conference also highlighted the advantages of the diamond and gem

(Below): Pt® Edition.

sector aligning with platinum to complete the narrative of responsibly sourced jewellery.

Platinum jewellery artistry and innovation on display To facilitate growth on all levels of the market, PGI has long encouraged diamond setters, designers, manufacturers and retailers through new and ongoing collaborations and initiatives to make platinum their white metal of choice.

Evidence of these efforts was displayed at the PGI booth, which was prominently located in the Hong Kong Jewellery Fair exhibition hall, including a preview of pieces crafted by

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

(Above): The PGI booth at Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong.

independent Chinese brands as part of the Pt® Edition Co-Create Project. Conceived by PGI, with the assistance of Ontimeshow and MetaMedia Group, the annual initiative fosters talent and ingenuity in an area of the market which is fashion-driven in non-traditional jewellery. Expressing this year’s theme of “Looking In, Looking Out”, these platinum collections were launched at the 2023 Shanghai Fashion Week, held from 8-16 October.

Serving as a platform to showcase platinum novelty and innovation, the booth caught the imagination of all comers.

It exhibited the artistry of PGI’s luxury international partners, such as Scottish designer Maeve Gillies, whose new collection, Tusaire, trail-blazes 3D-printed articulated chains and hollow structures juxtaposing polished and raw printed surfaces. Headlined by a two-band ring linked by a central knot, London jeweller Stephen Webster’s

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R E S P O N S I B L E J E W E L L E RY

(Right): PGI conference speakers and management team.

No Regret Chapel bridal line is another PGI collaboration. The platinum collection is currently launched in Korea, with plans to roll out into other markets, including China.

Platinum icons from German wedding ring specialist Niessing’s 150-year heritage were displayed, while Brimelow of Australia showed its state-of-the-art automation prowess in machine-made, hand-finished tennis bracelets. Bringing exciting technical achievements to the attention of the jewellery industry, PGI presented Alloyed’s intricate craftsmanship in superior platinum alloys, expert in the chemistry of precious metals, Pino Aliprandini’s breakthrough electroformed pieces – in a new technique

allowing thickness of up to 250 microns – and industrial partner WuXi ITP, which has the capability of producing pre-made casting alloys, platinum wires and extruded PtRu tubes that enable superior quality in CNC platinum rings.

Successful exchange of ideas for ethical growth With the trends driving the future of jewellery outlined by erudite industry experts and the presentation of cutting-edge platinum pieces by partner designers, the PGI conference and booth at Jewellery and Gem WORLD Hong Kong achieved its goal of providing valuable market insights and enrichment. The event also underscored platinum’s vital role as a champion of innovation and sustainability in the industry and a significant value-creator.

“PGI was proud to present this illuminating exploration of trends that will enable the jewellery industry to win the consumers of the future,” said Pui P Poon, MD of PGI China.

“By highlighting platinum’s innovative spirit and sustainable ethos, the conference clearly demonstrated why platinum is the best white metal choice for jewellery.”

“Being consumer-centric and driving innovations and responsibility are the duties of industry leaders in building a future that’s ethical, transparent and sustainable for long-term growth,” added Tai Wong, PGI’s Global Director: Innovation and Product Development. “We believe in this grander vision of the future. This is an important reminder and a beacon for us to develop longterm opportunities for our partners operating on all levels of the market.”

PGI is a worldwide marketing organisation dedicated to creating, expanding and strengthening consumer and trade markets for platinum jewellery. Through various programmes both to consumers and in collaboration with jewellery retailers and manufacturers, it creates consumer ounce demand by

(Above, from top): YOUDOIT by Y&M Jewelry and Niessing jewellery.

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identifying and developing platinum jewellery opportunities with its partners. Jewellery development has a strong track record in delivering results. Since PGI was founded in 1975, platinum jewellery has contributed over 80 million ounces of demand.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

COV E R F E AT U R E

Bespoke jewellery services Established in 2008 by Johann Claassens and his wife Suvette, Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both private clients and the trade.

WITH A CLIENT BASE OF MANUFACTURERS, designers, makers, retailers and private clients, Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery fiercely upholds its standards of excellence and attention to detail.

“We strive to provide the highest quality and exemplary service,” says Johann. “Drawn from a variety of skills and backgrounds, and constantly developing those skills through modern technology, we pride ourselves on the challenge of guiding our clients and giving them exactly what they want. Over the past 10 years, we've done a lot of research and development of platinum castings because of the huge demand for it. Most people in our industry source it out to casting houses and struggle to find someone who can do it well.

We're very proud of the work we do and have complete confidence in the platinum castings which we supply to more than 50 jewellers all over the country.

“In today’s economic conditions, one must try to save in every possible way to make money, especially in our industry where the raw material is outrageously expensive,” says Johann. “Not only is the metal expensive, but so is every process that goes with it. Then one needs a bunch of different people with knowledge in each of the processes, which again costs money. By having work done by us, jewellers can save a large part of their overhead costs by only paying for what they have done by Piccolo – whether it’s for only one piece a month or 100.

“We strive to make jewellers’ work less stressful, from a financial point of view, but

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also by easing their workload so that they don’t have to do all the work themselves. This allows them more time with their clients so that it’s a happy and comfortable experience for all.

“We can do it all – or anything and everything in between,” says Johann. “We're very proud of our work and have complete confidence in what we do for jewellers across the country and encourage the industry to give our services a try. We offer incredible specials specifically for the trade on a regular basis,” concludes Johann.

Piccolo Fine Jewellery’s services to the trade include: Design – Supplying high-quality CAD designs for jewellers using the latest technology is one of Piccolo’s core services. “We help jewellers transform their client's idea from a picture or pencil sketch to a CAD drawing, ready to be printed in wax,” says Johann.

An added benefit for jewellers is that the Piccolo team knows what to look for and designs in such a way that the rest of the steps like casting and setting will not only go easily, but will result in a good product. The design programs are also very expensive, so jewellers keep their costs down by paying Piccolo for a design as they need it instead of spending thousands of rands on programs.

“Our turnaround time is also quite fast, which means the jeweller’s client doesn't have to wait long,” adds Johann.

Wax printing – Piccolo uses the CAD drawings it receives from jewellers or that the company designs for them to print top-quality, 100% wax models that are ready to be cast.

It has a number of machines that are updated regularly in order to do so. An added benefit for jewellers when it comes to Piccolo’s wax printing is that no matter how many times a wax needs to be printed, clients only pay once.

“The stress that goes with wax models is now our concern, meaning that the jeweller has one less thing to worry about,” says Johann.

Casting – Piccolo uses 3D wax models to make moulds. High-quality investment powders are used for the moulds for the wax casting process. After many years, Piccolo has seen that waste investment powder works best for different alloys. It casts in platinum and palladium, as well as all kinds of gold alloys. “This means that jewellers don’t need to deal with the costs of all the different elements needed to cast,” says Johann.

Finishing – With more than 25 years of experience between the team, Piccolo finishes castings for other jewellers at exceptional quality. Castings that have been finished then only need setting, which the jeweller can do with Piccolo or use their setter of choice.

“There's a big ‘loss’ on metal when it comes to finishing, which is expensive and can only

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COV E R F E AT U R E

be recovered through expensive refining.

When Piccolo does the finishing for jewellers, they don't have to worry about those losses and costs, as they only pay for the metal they get when the piece is done,” says Johann.

Setting – Piccolo can also handle the setting of jewellery. Its stone-setter has more than 15 years of experience in the field.

• Johann What has been the single most important jewellery-making skill you have learnt and what inspires your creativity when making a new piece?

Measure, measure, measure – and measure again! It’s also a skill I don’t think is only applicable to making jewellery, because no matter how good you are at any of the other skills involved in the process, if something doesn’t fit, it doesn’t fit. Casting a platinum ring, for example, can be exceptionally good. However, if I had the measurements wrong, I’ll have to start again from scratch.

In general, for me it’s about the diamond or gemstone that the client would like to use, as well as the story

We start off with casting for the day’s jewellery to be manufactured for private and/ or trade clients. Then after I work mostly at the bench, finishing off jewellery pieces, prepping pieces for setting and then again doing finishing touches before the completed jewellery piece goes out for delivery.

I also help with casting preparation for the next day, seeing clients and suppliers.

My motto is passion – have passion for what you do every day and do what you do with passion.

behind why they want to have that particular piece made. I like making pieces for clients for a specific occasion, such as for an anniversary with their grandmother’s diamond or earrings for a 21st. The occasion and what I have to work with are where I get my inspiration.

My favourite material doesn’t end up in the end product, but I enjoy working with the 3D printed wax parts. It's a very delicate process working with the printed wax and requires patience and fine motor skills.

A very important lesson for me was spending time behind the workbench and casting the pieces myself, to learn what works and what doesn’t in terms of the design process with regards to tolerances and stone settings.

• Suvette What does a typical day at work look like for you and what motto do you live by?

• Christian What are your favourite materials to use and what advice do you have for aspiring jewellery designers?

Meet the team Piccolo comprises a small, but hard-working and passionate team. Johann does all the custom designs using modern computer-aided design (CAD) programs. Suvette, who holds a BTech and taught jewellery design and manufacturing for five years, does all Piccolo’s benchwork and finishing. Christian also does design work and helps when Johann is engaged in too much work. In addition, Christian does all the technical work, such as 3D wax printing up to and including metal preparation and casting.

Each team member has a very fine eye for detail and between them, they have more than 28 years of industry experience.

We strive to make jewellers’ work less stressful, from a financial point of view, but also by easing their workload so that they don’t have to do all the work themselves. This allows them more time with their clients.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA I R

The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair is back!

The 42nd Hong Kong Watch & Clock made a muchanticipated return to the physical format in September.

Martin Foster, international watch correspondent for SAJN and reviewer for the Horological Journal (BHI – UK), attended the event.

THE 42ND HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK Fair (HKW&CF), held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre looking out directly onto Hong Kong’s bustling Victoria Harbour, included the 11th Salon de TE, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and the Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd. Globally, Covid-19 is receding, Chinese politics is on the back foot, the Russia-Ukraine conflict is contained for now and (with great relief to us all) the global status of the HKW&CF re-emerged strongly and in good shape. In all of these circumstances, the HKTDC has rightly maintained its official “stay cool – business as usual” policies.

The biggest of the watch industry footfall trade fairs has now set aside the boring frailty of online seminars. However, further assisting this reset were the Typhonian storms crashing onto Hong Kong for the week of the fair, which closed the modern HK Exhibition

(Right): Pierre Lannier has been a major designer and manufacturer in the global watch industry since 1977. Founded 45 years ago, the brand has always put French watchmaking expertise and French chic at the heart of its ambitions.

(Below): From Kingwear, this attractive smartwatch combines multiple functions. The Kingwear factory is located in Shenzhen, China, with 12 production lines and over 500 staff and has the capacity to produce 3,6 million smartwatches annually.

Centre for the whole of one day, disrupting appointments and diary arrangements. Rain pelted Hong Kong at a record rate of 15 cm per hour!

Politics, rain and typhoons notwithstanding, the fair administration was independent and free of vested interests. This provided the widest possible scope for products where, contrarily, there is still a hint of proprietorial influence wafting around the Swiss fairs.

What numbers and statistics did the 2023 HKW&CF generate? We need to realise that after a few years away from public exposure, some differences are inevitable.

Exhibitor staff changes, products change, agents and buyers have new interests and the distribution/balance of discretionary buying power grows and/or changes hands. Last, but not least, review journalists “mature” by a few years as well.

Organisers reported about 15 000 buyers from 95 countries/regions attending the HKW&CF and under new hybrid arrangements, online access actually continued until 16 September, providing additional opportunities for buyers to browse products and conclude business.

“As the world’s leading watch and clock

fair, we were delighted to see more than 700 exhibitors attending our first watch and clock fair since Hong Kong re-opened.

Many exhibitors even received orders on the spot. There was a satisfactory increase in attendance from Mainland China, the Middle East and ASEAN countries, which added to the fair’s vibrancy,” said HKTDC Deputy

(Left): PTS Resources was established in 1991 and developed various mechanical movements in China. The company now makes custom movement parts including pinions, wheels, rotors, mainplates and bridges, with competitive pricing and services, including for coloured movements. These calibres have 72-hour power and a vibration frequency of 28 800 v/h.

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA I R

Executive Director Sophia Chong.

Exhibitors came from 17 countries and regions. The Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion (SIWP) and Francéclat returned to the fair, while the International Luxury Group (ILG) made its début.

Together, they showcased a variety of Swiss and international watch brands. ILG Chief Operating Officer Mrutrunjaya Chavadi said Salon de TE was an excellent platform for identifying business partners and OEM suppliers. “We achieved very satisfactory results at the exhibition which far exceeded our expectations. We identified Asia-Pacific retailers and distributors as potential business partners. The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TE are truly international. We’ll return next year.”

(Right): Champion of the Open Group of the 40th HK Watch & Clock Design Competition.

The design was titled “Scroll Bar” by Tam Kwok Tung and sponsored by Wincy Horological Ltd. Its creators noted: “A unique point of view or eye-catching design can take a watch from decent to stunning. The beauty of perspective lets us inspire the secret to create a new design that sheds new light on familiar scenes.”

For readers interested in statistics, the HKTDC commissioned a market study (Below): Memorigin was the first Hong Kong brand specialising in the tourbillon complication, integrating with oriental arts to produce tourbillon watches with prominent cultural features. In each watch, the brand says it “seeks to ignite inspiration and courage to seize opportunities, conquer challenges and realise dreams, creating infinite miracles ahead”.

interviewing about 900 exhibitors and buyers for their views on topics such as market outlook and product trends. The survey found nearly 60% of respondents expected overall sales to grow in the next two years.

Most respondents considered South Korea, Australia and the Pacific Islands, North America and Japan to offer the best growth prospects among traditional markets, while India, the Middle East, Mainland China and ASEAN countries were believed to be the most promising emerging markets.

In terms of product trends, 26% of respondents expected smartwatches to continue as the most popular watch category, followed by mechanical watches (22%),

automatic watches (16%) and quartz analogue watches (14%). They considered fashion watches (34%), smartwatches (32%) and leisure-type watches (23%) to have the highest growth potential in future.

The HKW&CF was divided into categories to help guide buyers and visitors to their particular interests. These were: • Complete watches • Clocks (Below): From the Memorigin “Love Collection – Friends” comes this diamond-encrusted flying tourbillon featuring lovebirds and a squirrel on the floral-embossed skeleton dials.

It has a 72-hour power reserve, a manual wind mechanism, a diamond-embossed stainless steel case and and alligator strap. Expect to pay about £18 000.

In terms of product trends, 26% of respondents expected smartwatches to continue as the most popular watch category, followed by mechanical watches (22%), automatic watches (16%) and quartz analogue watches (14%).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA I R

• • • • •

Machinery and equipment OEM smartwatches Packaging and display Parts, components and accessories Trade services The watches were categorised as: • Chic & Trendy, featuring trendsetters and fashion-driven brands.

• Craft Treasure, showcasing mechanical watches and flawless craftsmanship.

• Renaissance Moment, for classic and elegant watch brands.

• Wearable Tech, for smartwatches with the latest technology.

Helping with this, the HKTDC’s Click2Match service was a brand-new scan2match function providing a very useful tool for collectors/ exhibitors. Buyers used it to scan the exhibitor QR codes and bookmark their favourite exhibitors or browse product information.

The début “Guo Chao” theme also attracted much attention. A number of heavyweight Chinese watchmakers showcased timepieces blending Chinese cultural elements with exquisite craftsmanship.

In the halls of the fair, a full range of quality and price-point watch categories of mechanicals, complications, quartz and smartwatches could be viewed, together with tools, parts, crystals, testing equipment, machinery, display stands, packing and presentation materials, as well as all associated services. It was literally a one-stop sourcing platform for international buyers, with prices ranging from £1 to well into the tens of thousands.

In terms of aesthetics and quality, Chinese watchmakers are strongly closing the gap with their Swiss counterparts. Concomitantly, the

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They consider fashion watches (34%), smartwatches (32%) and leisure-type watches (23%) to have the highest growth potential in future.

(Above): Kieninger exhibited its “Domino” modern skeleton clock, featuring a finely finished ebony two-door case with faceted glasses, an integrated key compartment, a passing strike movement with seconds display and a one-piece special pendulum, silver-plated oval dial.

Swiss are recognising the broader opportunities of proximity to China – and the HKW&CF is an ideal crossroads of these cultures.

Thus a large part of the special attraction of the Hong Kong fair is, of course, its access to and from China. It is clearly the doorstep into that country for European makers, just as it is the doorstep to the West for Chinese makers.

Within the HK/China sphere is the example of PTS Resources Ltd, which was established in 1991 and developed various mechanical movements in China. The company now makes custom movement parts such as pinions, wheels, rotors, mainplates and bridges, with competitive pricing and services.

Of the tool exhibitors, there were representatives of both European and Chinese makers, some of whom showed wide ranges of hand tools and parts. Bergeon bench tools and Witschi electronics were among 19 exhibitors of parts, tools, testing, packaging and presentation materials.

The Watch & Clock Design Competition was a stimulating creative initiative in local watch and clock design. Under the theme of “Game Code” for the student group and “The Beauty of Perspective” for the open group, winners were announced at the fair and winning pieces were on display at Hall 1 Concourse.

The annual Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair anticipates opening its doors again in September 2024. SAJN will keep readers informed of any changes as the date draws nearer.

The event is an industry/trade fair. but the last day is open to all comers. Industry registration is easy, so come and enjoy this biggest of the horological fairs in the wonderfully vibrant city of Hong Kong, the doorstep into China.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

It means that you can benefit by dealing with a member of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa and be assured of: • Reliability • Ethical and honest conduct • Accountability in case of grievances • Legal expertise

The members of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa Comprises of South Africa’s leading diamond manufacturers, dealers in diamonds and precious stones and jewellers.

WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?

• Prestige of its Members due to strict controls and criteria • Confidence (the fifth “C”) Contact Joyce (Admin Manager - Diamonds) for more information Address: Office No. 1, Second Floor, 8 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, 2196, JHB, South Africa Phone: +27 011-334-1930 Fax: +27 0865165958 Website: www.diamonds.org.za E-mail: joyceb@diamonds.org.za

The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Refiners, Wholesalers and Service Members.

For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today!

Inquiries: Darryl van der Linde on (011) 484 5528 or darrylv@jewellery.org.za

Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za

J E W E L L E R S E RV I C E S

MetCon welcomes Lipman & Son Leading local refinery MetCon has announced the conclusion of a transaction with the Lipman family to bring the two businesses together under the MetCon banner.

“WE CONSIDER THIS TO BE A PARTNERSHIP steeped in history, with a shared commonality in the products that both companies use and work with daily,” says MetCon, having concluded a transaction with Lipman & Son that sees the two companies uniting under the MetCon banner.

Established in 1989, MetCon is one of the most advanced refineries in South Africa, adding value locally to responsibly sourced precious metals for supply to a local and global market. Its offering includes superlative refining, world-class wealth products and specialist jeweller services.

“I recognised a synergy between our two companies a year or two ago. With MetCon supplying the core precious metals to manufacturers and Lipman providing the technical support to the manufacturing process, there’s symbiosis all along the supply chain,” says Ian Lipman, owner of Lipman & Son. “I see this union leading the industry with state-of-the-art metallurgical expertise and technical process experience.”

The goal is to build something together for the jewellery industry which is greater than what the two companies are able to achieve separately. By uniting, they aim to forge a more comprehensive offering to the industry that can better support those who make the industry what it is: jewellers.

“I want to personally thank Ian for entrusting us with the legacy he and his family have so diligently built. This trust will be the cornerstone upon which we’ll continue building for the benefit of our industry,” says Grant Crosse, MetCon MD. The Lipman family has been serving the jewellery industry in SA since 1948, when Derek Lipman started manufacturing

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

(Above): Ian Lipman and Grant Crosse.

(Above, from left): Ian and his team and Derek and Ian Lipman.

diamond jewellery in Cape Town. Today the company has grown into an established and respected technology partner to the jewellery manufacturing industry.

Derek’s son, Ian, continued the tradition of offering exceptional service and dedication, providing a full range of technical support to the industry, with the ability to offer full sales and service back-up to jewellery manufacturers throughout the subcontinent.

Ian and his father have been part of the fabric of the industry for the past 75 years, admired by all for the positive impact they have made in the development and growth of jewellers in the country.

MetCon’s offerings to the industry will include Legor alloys, Legor electroplating solutions, the Certus Prestige range of investment powders and Opticom Graphite consumables, among others.

In uniting, they aim to forge a more comprehensive offering to the industry that can better support those who make the industry what it is: jewellers.

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G E M S & J E W E L L E RY

SINCE JPPE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS first opened its doors in 1965, the company has become synonymous with its vibrant coloured gemstone jewellery designs, given its niche legacy of providing South Africa’s jewellery industry with one of the most diverse gemstone and jewellery collections in the country.

However, this legacy is one that was in the making long before the company’s formation, all beginning with one child’s fascination with the scintillating chatoyancy of the Tiger’s Eye jewel.

“Many years ago my father, Peter Gilson, told me about how his fascination with gemstones and jewels began as a young boy, the very first time he encountered a polished tiger’s eye gemstone in a local shopfront window,” recalls Kyle Gilson, managing director of JPPE Manufacturing Jewellers. It was this initial fixation that would set him off on the adventure of a lifetime in later years. “My father often recalls stories of his travels in pursuit of rare minerals and gemstones around the world, as well as all

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A passion for jewellery and gemstones JPPE Manufacturing Jewellers managing director Kyle Gilson took SA Jewellery News on a walk down Memory Lane as he reminisced on the history of one of South Africa’s leading jewellery manufacturers and its humble beginnings.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

G E M S & J E W E L L E RY

the wonderful people in the jewellery and gemstone industry that he met throughout his journeying years.

“These original relationships forged by my father were essential in forming the foundation of JPPE’s identity as a hugely diverse provider of rare precious and semi-precious coloured gemstone jewellery, an identity and legacy that's continually built on and brought to new strengths to this day.”

In 1965, JPPE was officially incorporated as the business we know today, with its foundational team made up of a small group of committed individuals who shared the Gilson family’s passion for gemstones and jewellery. This golden thread of shared passion and loyalty can be seen running through the business’s expansion and development to this day, even extending to JPPE’s ties with its lifelong clients, with some family businesses having been a part of the company’s history for decades.

Moving from its modest one-storey workshop in a shared office building to its current cutting-edge jewellery manufacturing factory in the heart of Cape Town, JPPE elevated its operation to the next level in the mid-1990s. This expansion allowed JPPE to fully utilise the

team’s potential, with ample space and resources to innovate its manufacturing process.

Along with JPPE’s expansive network of rare gemstone suppliers, the organisation discovered its design niche in the creation of Africaninspired pieces for both local and tourist markets – particularly its meticulous safari and Big Five styles, designs that were originally painstakingly carved by hand.

The creations of these designs perfectly coincided with South Africa’s tourism boom of the early 2000s, cementing JPPE’s African range as a must-have for the international market.

The discovery and subsequent popularisation of Africa’s electric blue tanzanite jewel within JPPE’s rise to prominence had a similarly serendipitous impact on this line of tourism-focused jewellery, with African-inspired jewellery pieces featuring the magnificent gemstone remaining a favourite among international customers to this day.

Since then, JPPE’s offerings have only continued to grow, with its current range consisting of over 2 000 unique designs for clients to select from, as well as custom CAD design options. JPPE’s offerings to the trade can be viewed at www.jppe.co.za.

My father often recalls stories of his travels in pursuit of rare minerals and gemstones around the world, as well as all the wonderful people in the jewellery and gemstone industry that he met throughout his journeying years.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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DIAMONDS

Tracr and Sarine to collaborate on diamond traceability solution Industry leaders in diamond provenance and traceability are bringing together their technologies and expertise to develop a seamless, effective and scalable solution.

TRACR LTD AND SARINE TECHNOLOGIES LTD have announced their intention of collaborating on a scalable cost-effective solution for use in tracking diamonds from their source to the point of entry into G7 countries. The solution combines the complementary benefits of both the Tracr platform and Sarine’s Diamond Journey traceability solution. The Tracr-Sarine solution is designed to facilitate the source verification and traceability of diamonds upon entry to the G7 and other countries, utilising a dedicated digital portal.

Tracr, as the world’s first fully distributed diamond blockchain platform which enables registration of rough diamonds at source, and Sarine – as a worldwide leader in precision technologies spanning the entire diamond pipeline – will each apply their market-leading skills and capabilities to deliver a seamless digital ecosystem that enables tracking of diamonds throughout the value chain.

The collaboration will utilise Sarine’s ability to perform objective verification of a diamond’s journey from rough to polished using verifiable data, which is uploaded onto the Tracr platform. The digital platform will then host a dedicated customs portal to be used by government officials from the G7 and other countries.

Through the use of Sarine’s and Tracr’s existing, extensive networks – with over 100 million diamonds utilising Sarine’s systems annually and more than 1,5 million rough diamonds currently registered on Tracr at source – the solution is expected to have minimal impact on the supply chain. Both Tracr and Sarine have a broad presence in the diamond industry, making this a solution that can be scaled quickly and effectively.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

“Diamond provenance assurance is a rapidly growing priority that will affect all parts of the industry, especially with G7 nations set to implement new import restrictions,” says Wes Tucker, Tracr’s CEO. “The collaboration between Tracr and Sarine will bring together the best of both of our propositions to deliver a highly effective, scalable and cost-effective digital diamond traceability solution which can play a key role within the inclusive framework of the G7 Diamond Protocol facilitated by the World Diamond Council.”

“The collaboration between Tracr and Sarine will enable the diamond value chain to quickly accelerate the volume of diamonds undergoing data-based verifiable traceability, which is the need of the hour,” adds David Block, Sarine Technologies’ CEO. “The synergy created by a solution that uses Sarine

About Tracr and Sarine Tracr is the world’s first fully distributed diamond traceability platform that starts at the source and operates at scale, creating the ability to explore the provenance, authenticity and unique journey a natural diamond has taken along the diamond value chain. To date, the platform has registered more than 1,5 million rough diamonds at source and 190 000 polished diamonds at manufacturer level securely.

Established in 1988, Sarine Technologies is a worldwide leader in the development and manufacturing of advanced modelling, analysis, evaluation, planning, processing, finishing, grading and trading systems for

and Tracr’s complementary capabilities was the natural next step for traceability and transparency in the diamond industry. We’re excited to start this initiative with Tracr, which will bring together industry-leading technologies and establish a new proposition for diamond traceability.”

Both parties will continue to engage with relevant industry bodies and stakeholders regarding the new collaborative proposal and the G7’s approach to implementing import restrictions in support of the G7 Diamond Protocol.

diamonds. Its products include the Galaxy® family of inclusion and tension-mapping systems, rough diamond planning and optimisation technologies, laser-cutting and shaping tools, laser-marking, inscription and fingerprinting equipment, automated (AI-derived) clarity, colour, cut and light performance grading systems and traceability, visualisation and retailing services. Sarine systems have become standard tools in every modern manufacturing plant, properly equipped gemmology laboratory and diamond appraisal business, and are essential aids for diamond polishers, dealers and retailers.

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Monthly educational insert FEATURE ARTICLE

GEMS & GEMOLOGY

Colored stones and organic materials

SPONSORED BY

ISSUE ISSUE 10 12

Pinctada radiata atypical bead cultured pearls from the UAE. Pearling is embedded in the culture and traditions of everyday life in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), especially in the trading center of Julfar. Abdulla Al Suwaidi, grandson of one of the last traditional pearl divers in the UAE, took on the challenge of reviving the country’s pearling industry. He succeeded in establishing the Suwaidi Pearl Farm in Al Rams, Ras Al Khaimah (RAK), in 2005. Suwaidi’s cultured pearl farm is recognized as the first of its kind in the Arabian (Persian) Gulf region.

GIA’s Mumbai laboratory recently examined a quantity of cultured pearls obtained from the farm. The parcel contained variously shaped white to cream-colored pearls. Examination by real-time microradiography (RTX) showed a variety of different internal structures including bead and non-bead cultured pearls, but two pearls in particular (figure 58) revealed very interesting structures and were confirmed to be samples from atypical “bead” culturing experiments conducted by the farm. Pearl A was light cream and near-round, weighing 0.87 ct and measuring 5.13 × 4.93 mm, while pearl B was cream and button shaped, weighing 0.94 ct and measuring 5.42 × 5.12 × 4.93 mm. When viewed under 40× magnification, both pearls exhibited a smooth surface and possessed typical nacreous overlapping aragonite platelets.

Additional RTX and X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) analyses were conducted to further study the internal structures.

RTX imaging of pearl A revealed a non-bead cultured pearl used

Figure 58. Two atypical bead cultured pearls recovered from Pinctada radiata mollusks from Abdulla Al Suwaidi’s farm in the UAE. Pearl A (left) weighs 0.87 ct, and pearl B (right) weighs 0.94 ct. Photo by Gaurav Bera.

as a “bead” nucleus (figure 59). A light gray core surrounded by organic-rich concentric growth structures followed by finer growth arcs was visible. An obvious demarcation with a small organic tail-like feature just below the surface overgrown with cultured nacre was also apparent. The lack of growth arcs in the nacreous layers was due to rapid growth during the culturing process (“Atypical ‘beading’ in the production of cultured pearls from Australian Pinctada maxima,” GIA Research News, February 13, 2017). Similarly, pearl B revealed a natural pearl used as a “bead” nucleus (figure 60), with a very small but clearly visible dark gray core surrounded by faint growth arcs.

As with pearl A, a distinct demarcation with organic-rich areas and a small organic tail-like feature were evident just below the surface overgrown with cultured nacre. X-ray computed microtomography analysis of both samples revealed clearer images of the demarcation between the “bead” pearls used as nuclei and the cultured nacre overgrowths.

Optical X-ray fluorescence examination did not show any fluorescence in either sample. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry revealed manganese levels below detection limits and strontium levels of 1130 ppm for pearl A and 1446 ppm for pearl B. The results from both testing methods were consistent with a saltwater growth environment. The ultraviolet/visible reflectance spectra collected for both pearls showed features around 435 and 460 nm and an additional weak band at 495 nm. These features are similar to spectral

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 10 GEMSTONES

Figure 59. Top: RTX images in three directions of the non-bead cultured pearl used as a “bead” with a distinct demarcation and an organic tail-like feature in pearl A. Bottom: μ-CT scans of pearl A. The tail feature is indicated by a yellow arrow.

observations previously recorded for natural Pinctada radiata pearls (A. Al-Alawi et al., “Saltwater cultured pearls from Pinctada radiata in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 37, No. 2, 2020, pp. 164–179). Raman analysis using 514 nm laser excitation was carried out on the surfaces of both pearls, and a doublet at 704/705 cm–1 as well as a peak at 1085 cm–1, indicative of aragonite, were observed. Weak polyenic pigment-related peaks at 1130 and 1540 cm–1 were only observed for pearl B and were associated with its cream coloration. The photoluminescence spectra were also consistent with the Raman results and displayed high fluorescence together with the aragonite peaks, typical of most nacreous pearls.

Using lower-quality pearls (both nacreous and non-nacreous), gemstones, and other materials as “bead” nuclei has been a known practice for the last decade (“Chasing cultured pearls at SSEF: Cultured pearls using a natural pearl as a bead,” 2020, https://www.ssef.ch/chasing-cultured-pearls-at-ssef-culturedpearls-using-a-natural-pearl-as-a-bead/). Although not seen on a regular basis, atypical “bead” cultured pearls (aBCPs) are encountered in laboratories from time to time and can be very challenging to separate from some natural pearls. This

Figure 60. Top: RTX images in three directions of a natural pearl used as a “bead” with a clear demarcation and an organic tail-like feature in pearl B. Bottom: μ-CT scans of pearl B. The tail feature is indicated by a yellow arrow.

would be especially true of the two samples featured in this report: If either of them were drilled and mixed in strands with natural Gulf pearls, an experienced gemologist would find it difficult to separate them from the other pearls. The authors have encountered natural pearls with similar distinct boundaries. It should also be noted that the aBCPs produced at the Suwaidi farm are the result of successful experiments, and they are not commercially available at the time of this writing. The farm continues to conduct various experiments and aims to restore the UAE’s place in the global market by producing the finest Pinctada radiata cultured pearls available.

Abeer Al-Alawi GIA, Global Lubna Sahani GIA, Mumbai Nicholas Sturman Bangkok Chunhui Zhou GIA, New York

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Figure 61. Twelve Chilean abalone cultured pearls and two red abalone (Haliotis rufescens) shells with attached cultured shell blisters, as well as three 7 mm traditional freshwater shell bead nuclei used to culture the pearls. Photo by Emily Lane.

Bead cultured abalone pearls from Chile. Abalone is the common name of the marine mollusk species that belongs to the Haliotis genus. Various abalone species are distributed worldwide along cold coastal waters. They live in rocky habitats, attaching firmly with their muscular foot. Abalone is highly prized for its meat, shell, and pearls. Due to a marked decrease of abalone populations, harvesting wild-caught abalone is heavily regulated. Thus, approximately 95% of the global abalone supply comes from farms around the world, in countries such as China, South Korea, South Africa, Chile, Australia, Taiwan, Japan, the United States, and New Zealand (P.A. Cook, “Worldwide abalone production statistics,” Journal of Shellfish Research, Vol. 38, No. 2, 2019, pp. 401–404).

Abalone’s ear-shaped shells and pearls are known for their unique, vibrant iridescent nacre, which is sought after in jewelry and decorative items. The iridescence phenomenon is also known as “orient,” and it is attributed to interference and diffraction of light in the multilayered aragonite platelet microstructure and organic components. Due to the rarity of natural abalone pearls, most abalone products used in jewelry today are either abalone shells or assembled cultured shell blisters (also known as “mabé pearls”).

The culturing of whole pearls in abalone mollusks started around the same time as shell blister culturing for producing mabé pearl (assembled cultured shell blister), and various

methods have been attempted over the years (C.Y. Wentzell, “Cultured abalone blister pearls from New Zealand,” Fall 1998 G&G, pp. 184–200; M. Monteforte and H. Bervera, “Abalone pearl culture on the west coast of the Baja California peninsula, Mexico,” World Aquaculture, 2010, pp. 12–17). However, due to abalone’s hemophilia and poor tolerance for chemicals and handling, any significant cut could cause major bleeding, and the nucleation and implantation procedures could induce infection that prohibits the mollusk from producing nacre. Therefore, the success rate of bead cultured (BC) abalone pearls was always low and the pearls were of unmarketable quality.

After 10 years of experimenting, scientists from the University of Antofagasta, Chile, have successfully created abalone BC pearls using a patented method for producing free pearls in abalone. Twelve of their cultured pearls and two abalone shells with a cultured shell blister attached (figure 61) were submitted to GIA for study in May 2022. They were the pilot crop of a new pearl culturing technique using traditional freshwater shell bead nuclei (5 to 8 mm) inserted into grafting channels in the visceral mass of Haliotis rufescens (red abalone) imported into Chile from Mexico in the 1990s (figure 62, left) for abalone farming. The BC pearl cultivation takes place during the last 24–28 months of the abalone culture process that usually takes 48–52 months, allowing the abalone meat and the pearl to be harvested at the same time. The facilities include an aquaculture recirculation system in eight raceways of 5000

ISSUE 10

Figure 62. Abalone mollusks were grown in an aquaculture recirculation system in eight raceways of 5000 liters. A local kelp species (shown on the right) was used to feed the mollusks twice per week. Photos courtesy of Jorge Donoso Mena.

The cultured abalone pearls produced using this method displayed multicolored nacreous surfaces due to strong iridescence, along with patches and stripes of dark brown organic materials. They exhibited a variety of baroque forms, and four samples possessed horn or tooth shapes often found in natural abalone pearls. A characteristic underlying botryoidal-like surface structure, usually observed on natural

RAMAN SPECTRA 2000000

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liters, with continuous aeration by blowers and a culture water flow of 5000 liters per hour (figure 62, right). The local kelp species Lessonia trabeculata obtained from natural, sustainably managed sources is used to feed the mollusks twice a week.

Despite a high rate of bead nucleus rejection, the survival rate of the mollusks after grafting has been 99% and is currently at 15,000 grafted mollusks per trial, according to the farm.

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Figure 64. Raman spectra using 514 nm laser excitation showed high fluorescence background and weak peaks of aragonite displayed at 704 and 1085 cm–1. These results are consistent with 10 natural abalone samples selected for preliminary comparison study.

abalone pearls and shells, was also present (Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320). Real-time microradiography (RTX) revealed a round bead nucleus in the majority of samples, and the nacre layer thickness surrounding the bead nuclei ranged from 0.10 to 1.20 mm (figure 63). One sample lacked a bead nucleus and was identified as a non-bead cultured (NBC) pearl. Its layered growth with void-related features resembled the internal structure commonly found in natural abalone baroque pearls.

Figure 63. RTX images reveal 5–8 mm round shell bead nuclei in a majority of the abalone samples (ABL), with the nacre layer thickness surrounding the bead nuclei ranging from 0.10 to 1.20 mm. A bead nucleus was absent in sample 2, only showing layered growth with void-related features. While it is considered a non-bead cultured pearl, its internal structure resembled the internal structure commonly found in natural abalone baroque pearls. Image by Amiroh Steen.

Ten natural abalone pearls were selected for spectroscopic and chemical comparison with the cultured pearl samples, and both types of samples showed similar results. No specific patterns were observed in ultraviolet/visible reflectance and photoluminescence spectra, and Raman spectra showed high fluorescence background and weak peaks of aragonite at 704 and 1085 cm–1 (figure 64). Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence analysis revealed all the samples had very low

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B (ppm) Figure 65. The cultured and natural abalone pearl samples were compositionally similar in trace element concentrations determined by LAICP-MS. However, the cultured samples contained lower boron and higher potassium than the natural pearls. All four tested spots of the NBC samples are clearly separated from natural samples in this plot.

or below detection limit manganese content and high levels of strontium ranging from 1100 to 5000 ppm. High iodine levels were also detected in most samples, which is common in abalone. Trace element concentrations determined by laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) were compositionally similar in both sample types. However, the cultured samples contained lower boron and higher potassium contents. All four tested spots of the NBC samples could be clearly separated from natural samples in the plot of boron vs. potassium contents (figure 65). Since the one NBC pearl showed an internal structure similar to that of natural abalone pearls, the plot can potentially be used to differentiate NBC pearls from natural samples. However, further study on both sample types is required. Additionally, all abalone samples showed higher strontium concentrations than Pinctada species previously studied. The success of abalone BC pearl production could be a promising addition to the gem and jewelry industry, and this study provided useful information for future reference.

Microscopic shells in natural pearls from Pinctada radiata.

For centuries, natural pearl diving was Bahrain’s main industry.

The vast majority of natural pearls fished around the islands of Bahrain are found in the Pinctada radiata bi-valve (known in Arabic as mahar). These pearl beds have been known to produce the finest-quality natural pearls in the Arabian (Persian) Gulf region. Given the Gulf’s strategic trading location and the richness of its pearling industry, the pearls from this region are coveted by traders and collectors alike (R. Carter, “The history and prehistory of pearling in the Persian Gulf,” Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient, Vol. 48, No. 2, 2005, pp. 139–209). GIA’s Mumbai laboratory recently examined a quantity of these pearls obtained from two local Bahraini divers who claimed they were recovered from wild mollusks living in the nutrient-rich shallow waters off the coast of Sitra, one of Bahrain’s 33 islands.

Natural pearls from Pinctada radiata fished from Bahrain and the Gulf region in general have a wide range of shapes and colors. While most of the pearls examined showed a variety of interesting internal structures, two of them had a noteworthy feature: a minute shell contained within. Natural pearls are very rare and form inside mollusk shells, and a shell within a pearl within a shell is like nature’s version of a nesting doll. Such structures have been encountered by GIA on rare occasions (see Winter 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 434–436).

Both pearls were very small (figure 66). The smaller one (A) had a strong yellow bodycolor and an oval shape, weighing 0.06 ct and measuring 2.07 × 1.93 mm. The larger round one (B) had a light cream color, weighing 0.25 ct and measuring 3.30 mm in diameter. When viewed under 40× magnification, both exhibited typical nacreous overlapping aragonite platelets.

Real-time microradiography (RTX) and X-ray computed

Artitaya Homkrajae, Amiroh Steen, Matthew Hardman, and Ziyin Sun GIA, Carlsbad Rubén Araya Valencia Alexander von Humboldt Institute of Natural Sciences, University of Antofagasta Jaime Pablo Maturana Zuñiga Abalone Pearl Technology (APT SpA) Antofagasta, Chile.

Figure 66. Two natural pearls recovered from Pinctada radiata mollusks by Bahraini divers, weighing 0.06 ct (pearl A, left) and 0.25 ct (pearl B, right). Photo by Gaurav Bera. All four tested spots of the NBC samples are clearly separated from natural samples in this plot.

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A

B

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Figure 67. The gastropod shell, measuring approximately 0.50 × 0.30 mm, observed in pearl A. A: RTX image of the shell. B–D: μ-CT scans of the shell in the X, Y, and Z directions, respectively. (The weak white rings on the lower right image are artifacts and not pearl-related structures.)

microtomography (μ-CT) analyses were carried out to examine the internal structures in greater detail. A minute gastropod shell measuring approximately 0.50 × 0.30 mm was observed in pearl A. The shell walls were very thin, and minimal growth arcs were present in the nacre surrounding it (figure 67). Marine gastropods are known to range in size from a few millimeters to more than a meter, so the size of the shell inside this pearl suggests it was from a juvenile gastropod just beginning to form its shell. The juvenile shell later forms the protoconch or first whorls of an adult gastropod (A. Nutzel, “Larval ecology and morphology in fossil gastropods,” Paleontology, Vol. 57, Part 3, 2014, pp. 479–503).

RTX imaging of pearl B revealed a minute shell that appeared to be a foraminifera test (shell), measuring approximately 0.45 × 0.35 mm. Foraminifera are small unicellular marine organisms found on the sea floor. A thin layer of organic matter that appeared darker in the RTX and μ-CT images seemed to envelop the foraminifera test, and a few growth arcs were observed within the surrounding nacre (figure 68).

The μ-CT scan was also rendered using specialized software (C. Zhou et al., “New 3-D software expands GIA’s pearl identification capabilities,” GIA Research News, May 13, 2016) to create a three-dimensional image that made it easier to see the external morphology of the shell within the pearl (figure 69). The foraminifera test appeared multilocular, or multichambered, with tubular chambers arranged around a growth axis to form a beautiful milioline arrangement of chambers (A.R. Loeblich and H. Tappan, Foraminiferal Genera and Their Classification, Springer, New York, 1988). The minute size of the shells within these tiny pearls is a good indicator of their natural origin. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry on pearls A and B revealed low manganese

levels of 39.0 ppm and 17.8 ppm and high strontium levels of 1768 ppm and 1497 ppm, respectively, which is characteristic of formation in a saltwater environment. Raman analysis was also carried out using 514 nm laser excitation on the surface of each pearl. A doublet at 702 and 705 cm–1 as well as a peak at 1085 cm–1 indicative of aragonite were observed, along with minor polyenic pigment peaks at 1130 and 1530 cm–1.

Photoluminescence (PL) spectra were also collected on both pearls. Pearl A revealed three broad peaks at 620, 650, and 680 nm, characteristic of many naturally colored pearls, while pearl B showed clear aragonite peaks and low fluorescence.

An ultraviolet/visible reflectance spectrum was collected only for pearl B within the 220–850 nm range, as pearl A’s size prevented the detector from obtaining a clear result. Faint features at 420 and 495 nm were, like the PL results, consistent with natural coloration. Similar spectral observations have previously been documented in natural Pinctada radiata pearls A

B

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Figure 68. The foraminifera test, measuring approximately 0.45 × 0.35 mm, observed in pearl B. A: RTX image of the foraminifera test. B–D: μ-CT scans of the foraminifera test in the X, Y, and Z directions, respectively. (Again, the weak white rings on the lower right image are artifacts.)

Figure 69. 3D images constructed from μ-CT scans of pearl B illustrate the morphology of the foraminifera test. Images by Emiko Yazawa.

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(A. Al-Alawi et al., “Saltwater cultured pearls from Pinctada radiata in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 37, No. 2, 2020, pp. 164–179).

The gemological examination of these Pinctada radiata pearls proved very rewarding, especially with regard to their internal structures. Research into what causes the formation of a pearl in the wild is ongoing. Hence, finding these minute shells that may be the initiation of growth in these two natural pearls is a truly rare circumstance.

Nishka Vaz GIA, Mumbai Nicholas Sturman Bangkok Abeer Al-Alawi GIA, Global

Color study of fancy sapphire from Greenland. Over the past 70 years, several ruby and pink sapphire localities have been documented in the region of Greenland’s capital city, Nuuk (P.W.U. Appel and M. Ghisler, “Ruby- and sapphirinebearing mineral occurrences in the Fiskenaesset, Nuuk and Maniitsoq regions, West Greenland,” GEUS, Geological Survey of Denmark and Greenland, 2014). Several of these localities are currently exploited on a small scale by the local communities. In 2017, Greenland Ruby A/S started a large-scale mining operation at the Aappaluttoq ruby and pink sapphire deposit, located 160 km south of Nuuk.

The corundum extracted at Aappaluttoq is heated in air at temperatures over 1500°C for several hours, with some flux added. In rare cases, the heating significantly alters the color of light pink and near-colorless sapphire, resulting in fancycolor sapphire. GIA recently studied a parcel of 22 of these

Figure 70. Part of the suite of sapphires studied for this project (weighing 0.23–1.41 ct). Photo by Sasithorn Engniwat; courtesy of Greenland Ruby.

fancy-color sapphires mined and treated by Greenland Ruby (figure 70).

A combination of ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) spectra and trace element chemistry using laser ablation– inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) were collected at GIA in Bangkok to identify the causes of color.

For full quantification of the chromophores, it is necessary to do this analysis in oriented, clean samples with a known path length. Since most of the Greenland material is polished as cabochons and contains some inclusions, it is very challenging to calculate or even estimate the absorption coefficients. We limited ourselves to a rough interpretation of the chromophores based on the shape of the spectra. Orientation of the samples was estimated based on the pleochroism.

To be continued in the November issue

S E E N ARO U N D

Casio hosts watch show in Johannesburg and Cape Town The Casio Watch Show, which ran from 18-22 September at James Ralph’s offices in Midrand, was a wonderful success, with a steady stream of clients visiting the show during the week, say show organisers. A great selection of Casio timepieces – including the brand’s latest collections – were also exhibited in Cape Town from 4-5 October in Glen Austin, with many clients visiting the Cape Town event as well.

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B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

Shifting focus from tracking productivity to delivering value Businesses today are too preoccupied with measuring workplace productivity by managing people’s time and evaluating their performance. However, this fixation often detracts from understanding customer needs and delivering quality outcomes.

LEADING COACH AND TRAINER, MIKE Freislich from We Do Change, advocates a paradigm shift in business thinking. Rather than tracking people and their productive time, he encourages businesses to understand the collective effectiveness of people and thus prioritise delivering enhanced value to customers.

In today’s competitive marketplace, this strategic approach fosters sustained business growth and customer satisfaction. Freislich suggests that redirecting organisational focus towards valued outcomes is crucial for three main reasons.

Firstly, providing value to customers is

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paramount in satisfying their needs, fostering customer loyalty and driving repeat purchases.

“When customers perceive value in a product or service, they’re more likely to become returning customers and recommend the business to others, which can lead to an increase in sales and positive word-of-mouth marketing,” he says.

Secondly, differentiation and establishing a market edge within a crowded marketplace are crucial for businesses to stand out from their competitors. By offering more value to customers, businesses gain a competitive advantage, attracting a larger market share and increased profitability. Customers tend

to choose businesses that offer better value, making this a key factor in influencing their purchasing decisions.

Thirdly, focusing on delivering value to customers indirectly benefits employees.

“Engaging employees in understanding the value of their work to customers leads to higher motivation levels, reduced staff turnover rates, increased productivity, better product quality and a stronger commitment to the business,” says Freislich.

Research has shown that businesses make common mistakes when managing people and their perceived productivity levels. One such mistake is over-emphasising the quantity

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

of output over quality, which often results in rushed work and compromised solutions.

Prioritising quantity over quality can lead to dissatisfied customers and tarnish a business’s long-term reputation.

Micro-management is another pitfall that stifles creativity and innovation, particularly in knowledge work. “When employees feel constantly watched and scrutinised, their motivation dwindles and they’re less likely to take risks or generate new ideas. Empowering employees with ownership and autonomy is crucial for fostering a collaborative culture that drives innovation,” explains Freislich.

According to him, organisations can shift their focus in six simple, but highly effective ways:

urgency, using methods like cost of delay to make informed trade-off decisions and ensure the best outcomes.

context for the work being undertaken, while also allowing early and frequent detection of progress towards the goal.

Question the validity of work

Align work with strategy Explicitly link the work being done to higherorder measurable outcomes, ensuring that it contributes directly to achieving strategic goals.

It is important to be selective in what work is finished next. Questioning the validity of work at all levels (programme, project, epic, feature, task) with a preference for larger work requests can help to expose sub-optimal decisions around value.

Avoid overloading work Understand delivery capacity and resist the temptation to start more work than can be finished. This improves focus, reduces contextswitching and enhances the quality of delivery.

Define clear, measurable outcomes Outcomes define the “what, why and how much”, but not so much the “how”. Good outcomes are inspirational, objectively measurable and horizon-bound. The work of strategy is to set and communicate meaningful direction. Having clear, measurable direction in place in the form of long-term, mid-term and short-term horizon outcomes provides

Visualise work in progress This allows for better understanding and co-ordination, while deliberate measurement and improvement strategies ensure continuous progress and customer satisfaction.

“By adopting these practices, businesses can transform their organisational culture, enhance employee morale, deliver high-quality solutions and ultimately achieve bottom-line success,” says Freislich.

Sequence work with value in mind Prioritise work items based on their value and

Research has shown that businesses make common mistakes when managing people and their perceived productivity levels. One such mistake is over-emphasising the quantity of output over quality, which often results in rushed work and compromised solutions.

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D I D YO U K N OW ?

Interesting facts Photo Credit: Watches Of Knightsbridge

 In order to get as many watches for the army as possible, several Swiss companies were commissioned to produce them simultaneously.

In 1945, 12 watch manufacturers provided the solution with an identical wristwatch: the WWW watch (short for "watch, wrist, waterproof") was produced by Omega, Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Lemania, Cyma, Buren, Eterna, Vertex, Record, Timor and Grana at the request of the British Ministry of Defence. Round, plain cases, a sub-dial for small seconds and black dials with luminous hands and Arabic numeral hour-markers distinguish these rugged military watches. A complete collection consisting of one of these watches from each of the 12 manufacturers is known as "The Dirty Dozen".

During the Hellenistic periods, snake bracelets that climbed up wrists were worn as a symbol of immortality. In 1839 the snake established itself as a renowned jewellery staple, thanks to Queen Victoria’s engagement ring where the snake became a symbol of eternal love and commitment.

 Diamonds are the coolest gemstones to touch because heat goes in and out of them faster than with any other stone.

 Scientists confirm that if you want to test the coral beads from real to faux, put some coral beads in a bowl of milk.

Leave it for some time. If the colour of the milk begins to change from white to slightly coloured, it indicates that the coral beads are real.

 Eugene Joseff became the premier costume jeweller in Hollywood, designing, manufacturing and renting jewellery to movie studios under the brand name Joseff of Hollywood. He developed a matte metal finish for his jewellery, which minimised the glare from the strong studio lights. He also amassed a reference library to aid him in the creation of pieces for historic films.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

D I D YO U K N OW ?

Sapphires and rubies are both made of the same mineral: corundum. The change in the stone's colour is due to trace minerals that each stone contains.  Up until the early 20th century, it was considered rude to openly look at one's watch and women, in particular, were not expected to need to know the time at all. To accommodate both the inconvenient need to know the time and the social conventions of the day, women often wore jewellery that hid tiny watch faces under a bejewelled cover so that they could check the time discreetly at social engagements.

 Those with November birthdays have two birthstones to choose from: topaz and citrine. Both birthstones are known to have calming energies, while bringing fortune and warmth to the wearer.

 It was not until 1934 that the luxury brand BVLGARI changed to be displayed in classical Latin alphabet as “BVLGARI”. This is for stylistic purposes and pays homage to the founder’s Greek name, Sotirios Voulgaris.

 The Cullinan Diamond Mine is a carrotshaped volcanic pipe and has a surface area of 42 ha – about 40 soccer fields.

 By the time Queen Cleopatra came to power in the 1st century BC, Egyptian women had at their disposal a whole rainbow of cosmetics, all of which were made from rocks, minerals and plants in the region. Cleopatra used the bright green malachite paste of the ancient Egyptians on her lower eyelids. On her upper eyelids, she used a deep blue eyeshadow with gold-coloured pyrite flecks, made from ground lapis lazuli stone.

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AUGENTA JEWELLERS Tel: 021 883 8288 E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AFROGEM Tel no: 021 424 0848 E-mail: info@afrogem.co.za AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 073 92 45254 E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS Tel: 072 928 0385 E-mail: info@schermans.co.za

AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590 E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 475 7891 E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS VALLEY HYPER Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 3252 E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY Tel: 079 560 5064 E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS PE/GQEBERHA Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 658 0166 E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 566 5046 E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693 E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/

ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za

ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za

AMBIGO JEWELLERS Tel: 062 282 6924 E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 061 080 6481 Email: anna@annarosholt.com

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632 E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za

BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com

CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A Tel: 072 272 3089 E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 202 5021 E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com D FABRIK (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 327 7926 E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 083 454 2161 E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP Tel: 072 830 5656 E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com

DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

DLR JEWELLERS Tel: 057 101 0359 E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 021 914 0838 E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488 E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/ JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/ JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONNECTION Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN 3 JEWELLERY Tel no: 076 822 8783 E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 061 503 6561 E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY Tel: 079 477 2729 E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel no: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

MOON INVESTMENTS Tel: 021 551 2066 E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/ PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

M2 JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 012 460 6793 E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY Tel no: 056 212 1229 E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA Tel no: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PREVIDA & CO Tel no: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/ REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 606 0493 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS Tel no: 083 233 0910 E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za SAVAGE JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 902 2302 E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/ THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 914 2192 E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

JEWELLEX ISSUE 2023

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AFRASIAN DIAMONDS www.afrasiandiamonds.com info@afrasiandiamonds.comCARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAIGEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYOMETAL CONCENTRATORS (011) 268-6980 OF AMERICA (GIA) www.metcon.co.za www.gia.edu info@metcon.co.za gia ed/contact us (012) 000-4440 +1-760-603-4000 – global hq ADT170027_SAJN_Ad_Foremost_v1.indd 1

BEZALEL ATELIER www.bezalelatelier.com awie@bezalelatelier.com martie@bezalelatelier.com 071-899-0205 / 082-923-6546 BYL - COVER ART - WHOLESALE STOKIST - ARTWORK V2 - 10 - OCT - PRINT READY.pdf 1 2023/10/10 09:05:18

WHOLESALE STOCKIST OF POLISHED DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELLERY

BYL DIAMONDS Let's speak now to discuss your needs www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000

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ISIKHOVA MARKETING www.isikhova.co.za jenny@isikhova.co.za (011) 883-4627

NAMAQUA MOISSANITE www.namaquamoissanite.com sales@nammoissanite.com 081-873-6456

J.P.P.E MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS www.jppe.co.za info@jppe.co.za (021) 424-7764

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za info@piccolo-jewellery.co.za 083-396-6178

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JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA) Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za lornal@jewelleyr.org.za (011) 484-5528

SM WATCH www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com (012) 326-5996

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER - CPT/JHB TomerYedid Levi fi fififififi fififi fi8 6fi5 5fifi8 fi fifififififi fififififi@fififififififififififi.fififi CAPETOWN Mishqa Roman fi fififififi fififi 6fi 8fifi fifi5fi fi fifififififi fifififififi@fififififififififififi.fififi JOHANNESBURG Jarred Rosenberg fi fififififi fififi 63 fi5fi fi33fi fi fifififififi fififififi@fififififififififififi.fififi Thandi Khoza fi fififififi fififi 8fi 85fi fi8fifi fi fifififififi fifififififi@fififififififififififi.fififi Offifififififififififififififififififififififififi

EGL SOUTH AFRICA www.egl.co.za admin@egl.co.za (011) 334-4527

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JZA – YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE jza@isikhova.co.za (011) 883-4627

UNGAR BROTHERS www.ungarbros.co.za ungarbros@worldonline.co.za (011) 642-2018

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - NOVEMBER 2023

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WHOLESALE STOCKIST OF POLISHED DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELLERY Let's speak now to discuss your needs

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