SAJN November 2014

south african jewellery news

november 2014

R36.00 (incl VAT)

The industry's only trade journal

The good diamonds do.

R100 million gold loan scheme launched Jewellex organising committee elected SA Mint launches the Leopard Coin

c ntents 18. GOLD MANUFACTURING R100 million gold loan scheme launched

7. News • CPM achieves both Code of Practices and Chain-of-Custody certification

22. Brand Management

• Field researchers witness evolution of major ruby deposit in Mozambique

• Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph

• Jewellex organising committee elected

• Satisfying the demands of storm chasers

• World Diamond Mark Foundation and GJEPC to organise World Diamond Conference in Delhi, India

• Renowned fashion designer announces new Lily Rose collection

• Deloitte predicts 4% increase in US Christmas season retail sales

• Rapid 3D and Kemtek launch joint venture

• New iPhone app launched

• TW Steel partners with VR/46 brand

• Empress Eugenie’s Feuilles de Groseillier brooch to crown Magnificent Jewels auction

• Diane Kruger become Jaeger- LeCoultre ambassador

• New high-tech collection from Rado

• An exciting new concept from Bering

15. COIN DESIGN

28. LITTLE GEMS

SA Mint launches the Leopard Coin

Making a material difference Editor: Adri Viviers Watch Editor: Alice Weil Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Designers: Joanne Brook; Chantelle Johnston Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627, Website: www.isikhova.co.za

16. INTERNATIONAL FAIR SA Mint launches the Leopard Coin

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed Printing: Colors

On the cover The Diamond Route, a De Beers and EO & Son initiative, consists of nine properties in South Africa – and now in Botswana – are open to researchers, academics, employees and to nearby communities. Now also open to the public offering clean, sometimes humble, accommodation in places where the foresight of diamond mining people conserved the natural habitat for future generations. Take a look at www.diamondroute.com.

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NEWS

Jewellex Organising Committee elected

A Jewellex Africa Organising Committee has been elected for 2015 under the Chairmanship of Rowan Jacobson.

The following representatives were elected: – Rowan Jacobson of CJR Gift Sales: watch

Imperial brooch to crown Magnificent Jewels auction On 11 November Christie’s Geneva will present Empress Eugénie’s Feuilles de Groseillier brooch, which has not been seen at auction for over 125 years.

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wholesalers’ representative Anna Russo of Carat Co/Forever Mark: mar- keting and diamond representative Colin Campbell of Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project: manufacturers’ representative Andrew Meyer of Isikhova Publishing: media/ advertising representative Alice Weil of SA Jewellery News: media rep- resentative Michael Vincer of Metal Concentrators: refiners’ representative Chris van Rensburg of Studio C: Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) Chairman Dean Sundelson of Sundelson Bros: whole- salers’ representative

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Lorna Lloyd of the JCSA: Jewellex project representative Elsa da Silva of the JCSA: Jewellex project co- co-ordinator Meetings will be held once a month. Anyone wishing to put forward ideas or suggestions can contact the Organising Committee at e-mail: jewellex@jewellery.org.za.

These contributions will be presented at the monthly meetings.

The French Crown Jewels once constituted

ter of three open-work currant leaves centering

one of the largest jewellery collections in the

upon a larger cushion-shaped diamond, sus-

world, but very few examples in original con-

pending three detachable articulated pampilles,

dition have survived.

set throughout with old mine-cut diamonds.

The Feuilles de Groseillier brooch, part of one

Of exquisite design, this jewel is an example

of the most beautiful parures of the 19th cen-

of the exceptional quality of the creations of

tury, was commissioned by Empress Eugénie to

Bapst Jewellers. This historic jewel is estimated

Bapst Jewellers in 1855. It is designed as a clus-

at US$2 000 000-3 000 000.

News

Increase predicted in American Christmas sales Deloitte anticipates that the American Christmas season retail sales for 2014 will increase by 4-4,5% year on year to between US$981 billion and US$986 billion.

Additionally, Deloitte predicts that non-store retail sales, including e-commerce and mail order, will rise between 13,5-14%. Deloitte defines the American Christmas retail season as beginning on 1 November and ending on 31 January. The expected rate of sales growth is a moderate improvement over the 2,8% gain in 2013, the consulting firm states. ”Income, wage and job growth are positive indicators heading into the holiday season,” says Daniel Bachman, Deloitte’s Senior USA Economist. “Debt levels remain at historic lows and stock market gains, coupled with increasing home prices, have a wealth effect on consumers, which may encourage increased spending compared with prior years. Although consumers are watching tensions unfold in the Middle East and Ukraine, the improvement in their economic situation should more than offset the foreign conflicts’ impact on consumer confidence

and retail sales. Despite recent events in energy-producing areas of the world, gas prices have held steady, which may also sustain consumers’ spending power.”

Alison Paul, Vice-chairman of Deloitte, adds: “While online sales continue to climb, digital customer interactions through both virtual and physical store channels present greater sales opportunities than online or mobile commerce alone. Our research indicates that 84% of shoppers use digital tools before and during their trip to a store.

Additionally, those shoppers convert, or

make a purchase, at a 40% higher rate than those who don’t use such devices during their shopping journey.”

Given this trend, Deloitte forecasts that digital interactions will influence 50%, or US$345 billion worth of retail store sales this festive season. This figure reflects the extent to which consumers’ use of desktop and laptop computers, tablets and smartphones influence brick-and-mortar store sales. ”Retailers should focus on the right functionality, rather than more functionality, when creating digital experiences this holiday season. Rather than offer their full e-commerce site on a mobile device, for example, retailers may be more effective by helping consumers compare prices, scan through local assortments and navigate the store,” says Paul. “Retailers which better understand how consumers make purchasing decisions – then deliver tools that support that process in a way that’s consistent and complementary across online, mobile and store channels – may have the advantage this holiday season.” – Rapaport

World Diamond Conference scheduled for Delhi, India The World Diamond Mark Foundation (WDMF), in close co-operation with the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India, will organise an international World Diamond Conference supported by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India, with its heart at the future of diamonds and diamond jewellery in the global luxury consumer market. The conference will be held from 11-12 December 2014.

The event, which will be attended by representatives of the world’s leading mining countries, major diamond producers, diamond and jewellery manufacturers, retailers and industry-related organisations, will focus on the most urgent issues in the international industry: the revival of consumer enthusiasm for diamonds and the consequent increase of market share for diamond jewellery in the luxury sector. The World Diamond Mark Foundation believes it has effective ways of boosting consumer demand.

The decision to hold the conference was finalised in a meeting between GJEPC Chairman Vipul Shah and WDMF Chairman Alex Popov.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

NEWS

DDC and IDE create ultimate “Diamond Supply Platform” The Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC) and the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) are creating an unparalleled “Diamond Supply Platform” on the trading floor of the DDC at a time when North American diamond buyers need it most, said DDC President Reuven Kaufman and IDE President Shmuel Schnitzer in a joint statement. The two Presidents pledged to continue to strengthen

the DDC-IDE alliance for the benefit of both their membership bodies.

“At the DDC, we’re making every effort to generate added value for our members and the special trade events we now regularly hold on our trading floor have proven to be an excellent tool for achieving that goal,” Kaufman noted.

“With the upcoming Israel Diamond Week in New York next month, members of both our

bourses will be selling diamonds to visiting buyers from all over North America.”

Schnitzer said he hoped members of other bourses on the continent – such as Los Angeles, Miami and possibly also Panama – would attend the event. “Diamond buyers will find it an extremely valuable and convenient instrument to complete their inventories before the festive season,” he stated.

Rough Diamond Evaluation course furthers beneficiation efforts In an effort to further the gem and jewellery industry’s beneficiation initiatives, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) débuted its Rough Diamond Evaluation course in French in Côte d’Ivoire. The class, which was held in Abidjan from 15-19 September, consisted of six government officials from the Ministry of Mines, Customs and the Ivorian mining development organisation SODEMI, as well as two representatives of artisanal mining co-operatives and one field staffer from the Property Rights & Artisanal Diamond Development II project of the American Agency for International Development. The five-day course

was taught by Ric Taylor, GIA’s Manager of Global Instruction.

Several notable governmental and diplomatic representatives, including Jean Claude Brou, Minister of Mines & Industry and Terence P McCulley, the USA’s Ambassador to Côte d’Ivoire, attended the Rough Diamond Evaluation graduation on 19 September.

The institute also hosted the first-ever GIA Junior Gemologist Programme workshop in a Francophone African country on 18 September in conjunction with the American Embassy in Abidjan. Eighteen students from the Lycée Blaise Pascal school ranging in age from 14-18 discovered the

world of gemmology through hands-on, practical training. The programme was introduced in sub-Saharan Africa in 2012 and has taken place in Botswana, Kenya, Tanzania and SA.

NEWS

New iPhone app launched The Rapaport Diamond Trading Network has launched its new and improved RapNet iPhone app.

The app allows RapNet members to conduct their business on the go. The app now includes advanced searches, saved searches and diamond tracking. Settings are synced between the app and the desktop, allowing seamless transitions between mobile and the office.

“Our commitment to making RapNet accessible from everywhere is evident in this

celebrating 50 years When Antonio and Carmen Veloso got married in 1964, little did Carmen know that she was also embarking on a lifelong career.

Antonio had studied at the

completely fresh RapNet app,” says Saville Stern, COO of RapNet. “RapNet members will be able to use the app or the browser interchangeably, allowing for a superior trading experience. We’re pleased to offer our community this advanced app and we want to let our Android-using members know that we’re working hard on an Android app that we hope to release in the near future.”

The RapNet app is available in the Apple App Store.

the scenes of D’Ouro Jewellers since then,

after finishing her tertiary education and is still

while Carmen became the face and sales rep-

part of it, 21 years down the line.

This year the Veloses couple are celebrating

resentative of the business.

In 1975, the family moved from

their 50th anniversary and working together as

Angola to Johannesburg and es-

retailers and manufacturers of D’Ouro Jewellers.

tablished themselves in a new

“It’s certainly a milestone to live and work

country with different working

together for half a century,” says Carmen.

School of Fine Arts in Porto, Por-

methods – but adjusted quickly

“It’s taken love, patience, perseverance, en-

tugal and followed in his father’s

and successfully.

thusiasm, business acumen and a good rela-

footsteps as a manufacturing jeweller. He’s worked as a goldsmith behind

In 1993 their only daughter, Tania, joined the family business

tionship between the two of us to achieve the 50-year mark.”

Israel Diamond Week a unique sourcing opportunity The third edition of the Israel Diamond Week in New York, to be held from 10-13 November 2014, is the last-stop platform for buyers before the holiday season and, in the words of Reuven Kaufman, President of the Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC), “a grand opportunity to stock up on polished diamonds”. The event, held on the DDC’s trading floor on 580 Fifth Avenue in midtown Manhattan, “will feature a strong contingent of American and Israeli diamond suppliers, offering visiting diamond buyers an exceptional choice of diamonds”, notes Kaufman.

The Israel Diamond Week in New York is a bi-annual event jointly organised by the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) and the DDC. It is not only a successful platform for trade between the members of the largest diamond exchanges in the Western world, but also a proactive effort to open the DDC’s doors to diamond-buying jewellery manufacturers and retailers who usually do not visit the club.

“Manhattan’s diamond and jewellery district is one of the most important access points for the American diamond, gem and jewellery business,” says IDE President Shmuel Schnitzer. “Our co-operation is a mutual effort to allow diamond buyers and sellers to meet, inspect a wide variety of goods and make their purchases with confidence.”

Kaufman says the Israel Diamond Week in New York and similar innitiatives have had an invigorating effect on the activity on the club’s trading floor. “It’s a great equalising event where traders, large and small, all get a chance to interact with the visiting buyers. Those buyers also get access to a much larger selection of supplies.”

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

CPM achieves certification The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Cape Precious Metals (Pty) Ltd (CPM) has achieved certification against the new 2013 Code of Practices (COP), meeting the highest ethical, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC. Additionally, the South African refiner has achieved Chain-ofCustody (CoC) certification at its refining facility in Cape Town and Johannesburg.

“The new provisions under the 2013 COP address important issues for our members and their supply chain. Additionally, CoC certification provides a mechanism for refiners to demonstrate how they’re implementing the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains,” explains Ashish Deo, RJC’s CEO. The successful verification assessment was led by Thembani Ncube from Bureau Veritas Italia, one of the independent third-party auditing firms accredited by the RJC. “Cape Precious Metals, as a leader in the South African refining industry, focuses constantly on being a guiding example when it comes to ethical values and professional standards,” says Sharon Eades, CPM’s MD.

“We’re very proud to have achieved both of RJC’s certifications. Our company’s primary aim is to continuously raise the benchmarks for more transparency and quality. By doing so, we protect our reputation, our clients and suppliers’ reputation, and develop and guarantee continuous success for all parties involved.”

The RJC is an international not-for-profit standards and certification organisation. It has more than 500 member companies that span the jewellery supply chain from mine to retail.

RJC members commit to and are independently audited against the RJC COP, an international standard of responsible business practices for diamonds, gold and platinum group metals.

The COP addresses human rights, labour rights, environmental impact, mining practices, product disclosure and many other important topics in the jewellery supply chain. RJC also works with multi-stakeholder initiatives on responsible sourcing and supply chain due diligence. The RJC’s Chain-of-Custody Certification for precious metals supports these initiatives and can be used as a tool to deliver broader member and stakeholder benefits.

Evolution of major ruby deposit in Mozambique In early September 2014, a team of Gemological Institute of America (GIA) field researchers journeyed to the Montepuez mining area of Mozambique to collect ruby samples for the institute’s gem identification database and to document the current state of the deposit. The Montepuez Ruby Mining Company (MRM) has rapidly expanded since the operation reached the production stage in 2012, handling 1,6 million tons of rock and recovering eight million carats of ruby and corundum to date. The GIA team, comprising field gemmologists Andrew Lucas and Vincent Pardieu, Gems & Gemology Technical Editor Tao Hsu, videographer Didier Gruel and expedition guest Stanislas Detroyat, discovered an ample variety of ruby specimens ranging in size, colour and iron content.

This is the third expedition GIA researchers have made to the Montepuez ruby deposit since its discovery in 2009. “It’s fascinating to witness the evolution of this major deposit. While it’s clear from our expedition that the MRM operation has reached production stage, I believe this is just the beginning. The deposit seems to be

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

incredibly rich, easy to mine and conveniently located along a major road and close to Mozambique’s port city of Pemba,” says Pardieu.

Today MRM employs 600 staff and consists of four pits, a sophisticated washing plant, a sorting facility using a proprietary ruby evaluation system, an extensive prospection system and a base camp. Two types of deposits are found at the operation: at Maninge Nice, rubies are found in a primary deposit associated with amphibole, mica and feldspar. In Mugloto, Ntorro and Glass, rubies are found in secondary deposits along current or former river beds.

The company is currently focusing mining production on secondary deposits in the Mugloto area since it is shallow (4-8 m) and rich in highquality, clean rubies – a result of millions of years of weathering.

Even though the mine is in production, exploration continues at a fast pace, with core drilling into primary deposits and auger drilling into secondary deposits. “This deposit will not only change the supply structure of ruby on the global market, but may also contribute to changing the way business is done in the ruby trade,” adds Lucas.

COIN DESIGN

Designed to pay tribute to SA’s wildlife, the Natura Series of collectable gold coins has been in production since 1994. Over the past 20 years, SA Mint has made a significant contribution to the conservation of endangered species by donating a portion of the proceeds to selected projects. For the launch of the Leopard Coin Collection, the company partnered with the Cape Leopard Trust (CLT), a leading conservation organisation using research and education to reduce human-wildlife conflict in the Western Cape, where the Cape mountain leopard is endemic.

The Denomination Set includes four 24ct gold coins which each depict typical elements of a leopard’s life. These include the R100 1 oz coin, depicting a leopard lazing on a tree branch and the R50 half-ounce coin, showing a male and female of the species. Leopards in a collage of branches, with one dragging part of its kill up the tree, are shown on the R20 quarter-ounce coin, while the R10 10th-ounce coin shows a pair of curious cubs. The obverse of each coin bears a portrait of a snarling leopard designed by MJ Scheepers.

To mark the partnership between SA Mint and CLT, 600 limited-edition 1 oz coins were struck on site in the Cederberg with a unique mint mark bearing a leopard’s paw-print and accompanied by a “CLT” hallmark.

The launch event was held at Hemelhuijs, where chef Jaques Erasmus presented a menu inspired by the Cape mountain leopard’s natural habitat and showcasing indigenous produce such as rooibos, springbok, Karoo lamb, navel oranges and Cederberg honey. A newly produced promotional video, sponsored by the SA Mint to raise awareness of CLT’s work, was shown for the first time.

SA Mint launches the Leopard Coin

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

A wholly-owned subsidiary of the South African Reserve Bank (SARB), the South African Mint Company (known as SA Mint) has announced the launch of its latest addition to the multiaward-winning “Natura” Series. Entitled “Nocturnal Hunters”, the collection débuted with the Leopard Coin Collection at the end of September.

The pinnacle of the evening was the opening of the online auction, where patrons and coin collectors globally can bid for the No 1 of the limited-edition Leopard Coin set. The auction will run until 15 November 2014, when the winning bidder will acquire 001/300 beautifully packaged in a handcrafted wooden gift box, accompanied by a gold and bronze alloy cast of a leopard’s tooth and claw designed by S Rautenbach, as well as a twonight stay at the Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat.

SA Mint has undertaken to donate 3,5% from the sale of the 600 mint marked coins to the CLT, as well as the full amount earned through the online auction sale of coin “001/300”. The donation will be used to expand the CLT’s educational outreach pro-

gramme and will allow hundreds more children from poor neighbouring communities to participate in wilderness camps.

SA Mint is one of the world’s leading mints and has earned a worldwide reputation and numerous awards for its appealing designs, exceptional craftsmanship and the high standard of its quality coins. It is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank.

The mint comprises two divisions: circulation coins, numismatics and collectable coins. The circulation coins division manufactures the legal tender coins used in South Africans’ everyday transactions, as well as coin blanks, which are sold to customers for minting. Apart from producing all South African coinage, SA Mint also produces circulation coins for export to numerous countries in Africa, Asia, Europe and South America.

15

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

A review of the Hong Kong Fair There was colour, bling and a lot of class in early September for the 33rd Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (HKW&CF), the world’s largest timepiece event. Martin Foster attended the show.

This year’s HKW&CF attracted more than 19 000 visitors, with buyers from key countries recording significant growth, including the UK (23%), France (14%), Germany (7%), the Chinese mainland (8%), India (37%), Korea (30%) and Thailand (28%). The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) organised nearly 80 buying missions, with some 3 800 buyers from around the world creating huge business opportunities.

“The HKW&CF is the largest show of its kind in the world and we’re attracting buyers from around the globe year after year,” said HKTDC Deputy Executive Director Benjamin Chau. “Developing original designs and promoting brands are still the way to go and Hong Kong's excellent watch and clock products are well placed to capture the opportunities. The excellent Salon de TE re-

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turned after its début last year and showcased a fine selection of exquisite watches that attracted buyer attention.”

The HKTDC commissioned an independent research agency to conduct an on-site survey during the first three days of the fair. The agency surveyed 405 exhibitors and 705 buyers on issues such as market prospects, product trends, e-tailing and sourcing patterns.

Buyers and exhibitors interviewed were optimistic about the overall sales for the coming year, mainly because retail prices continue to rise. With the Hong Kong watch and clock industry thriving, 40% of buyers and about 40% of exhibitors interviewed plan to procure or sell products via the Hong Kong platform. A large number of buyers considered the Chinese mainland a major source of supplies in the year ahead, with 70% of them planning to source watch and clock products

from there. In terms of product and trends, both buyers and exhibitors expect quartz and smart watches to lead the market, while fashion watches, smart watches and leisurestyle watches will have the highest market potential.

(A “smart” watch is capable of communicating with a cellphone and may be capable of data transmission, online game-playing or have a built-in MP3 player.)

Most surveyed buyers and exhibitors plan to introduce smart functions to their products and promote timepieces by brand licensing and offering limited-edition collections. Quality, pricing and functions are the main sourcing considerations for buyers and the survey found Hong Kong’s suppliers perform reasonably well in all three areas.

The survey found that e-tailing accounts for about 20% of total business in the watch and clock industry and is expected to grow by 20% in the coming year. The main products sold through e-tailing channels are mid-priced fashion, leisure-style and sports watches.

The survey further found that buyers prefer shorter delivery lead-times, maintaining a lower stock level and placing smaller orders. Nearly 70% of surveyed buyers said they source in quantities of 300 pieces or less. In response to this trend, the HKW&CF set up a Small-order Zone, comprising more than 170 showcases of products available for orders ranging from five to 1 000 pieces. The aim is to provide more business opportunities for buyers and exhibitors. Around 7 000 buyers visited the Small-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

order Zone during the fair, generating over 18 000 business enquiries.

The review concluded: “Materials of wristwatch cases such as ceramic, titanium, alloys, carbon fibre, magnesium and palladium are becoming more popular. Jumbo cases and dials are common among the younger generation. However, girlie designs with vivid colours, such as pink and white, are still the rage among female buyers... For male consumers, the wristwatch with featured chronograph functionalities is becoming more popular.”

The HKW&CF provides a premium platform for the industry to trade and exchange.

Thomas T Swiderski, Director of Swiss exhibitor Adriatica PR&A Watch Sagl, said this was the company’s fifth time exhibiting at the fair. He revealed that it was working with two business partners which it had met at previous fairs to develop its markets in Hong Kong and, particularly, Vietnam. He regarded the fair as the best channel for finding new clients in Asia.

More than 30 seminar and signature events, including networking activities, were staged. They included the Hong Kong International Watch Forum, with European and Asian industry heads meeting to discuss issues related to the industry. The principal question at this seminar was the effect of the Swiss monopolistic policies of restricted parts supply and how this would inevitably damage decades of careful promotion of the “Swiss-made” image. It was reported that there were legislative moves afoot in France and Germany, which might well have some impact on these restrictive practices.

HIGHLIGHTS AT THE FAIR The quality of finish in the mechanicals improves every year – and 2014 was no exception. However, there was little to report in the R&D area. Over the past decade, Chinese makers have developed technical complications in parallel lockstep with the Swiss, but this year they were notably absent from the Swiss High Horology rush into minute repeaters. This has interesting undertones: Chinese makers may be running at near-manufacturing capacity and as they are currently supplying over 70% of the world’s finished timepieces, perhaps they can take their time playing technical catch-up.

Swiss makers are now regular exhibitors through their big Hong Kong distributing retailer, Prince Jewellery & Watch Co, which represents the superb Richemont brands and some

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

of the finest Swatch Group and independent makers. That the Swiss houses are giving this fair more attention is no surprise, given its pivotal role as a portal to mainland China – the more so since it has been widely reported that Swiss global pricing peaked in 2011/12 and entry-level watches from the High Horology makers have come off by up to 25%. So will it be China to the rescue? Possibly. Richemont has already suggested that Chinese consumption of its Swiss watches and other luxury goods is rising again. A crackdown on conspicuous consumption by the authorities in Beijing recently dampened demand for brands such as Cartier, IWC and Piaget, but Richemont Co-Chief Executive Bernard Fornas maintained that sales have started rising again. “We’ve reached the bottom in China. The worst was two years ago,” he said at the announcement of Richemont’s results for the financial year which ended on 31 March 2014.

Smart watches set the pace with R&D. Hong Kong exhibitor Add Inc Ltd showcased its Add Me+ smart watch, with its slim body measuring just 9 mm and a trendy design. Users need only gently shake it to receive calls and can exchange personal information such as names, telephone numbers and photographs within a distance of 30 cm in just one second. The prototype of the Add Me+ was offered at the fair for tech-savvy buyers to assess. Add Inc Ltd has already received orders from European, Japanese and Middle Eastern buyers.

Traditional watchmakers also approached the smart watch exhibitors and the possibility of integration of smart watch functions received deserved attention. However, nobody

seems to believe that the new generation of smart watches can touch the collector’s market of Swiss High Horology makers.

WORTHY WINNERS Every year the HKTDC runs a design competition for watches. This year, it attracted around 180 entries under the themes of “Time Controls World” and “Smart World” for open and student entries. The winners were announced in the week prior to the fair.

The Open Group champion was Leung Ho-him, with a nostalgic design entitled “The Catcher”, featuring a watch display which is divided into 24 time zones. By adjusting the watch to the local time zone, the reflector ring turns accordingly, enabling the wearer to read both the local and hometown time on one watch.

Li Ka-sing was first runner-up in the Open category with a design that constantly keeps the number “6” at the bottom of the watch face, while Tang Siu-hung was second runnerup with a design entitled “Explorer”.

In the Student Group category, Wan Nokyiu from the School of Continuing & Professional Studies at the Chinese University of Hong Kong was crowned champion with a design entitled “Essence”. All the winners’ and finalists’ entries in the competition were displayed at the fair.

Tools, equipment and materials for repairers and production were also available at the event, from the cheapest to the best available anywhere in the industry. Much of this came from regular European makers and suppliers.

The Baselworld Fair held earlier in the year is a mandatory event for industry people, but the HKW&CF features a larger number of exhibitors, who collectively produce over 70% of the world’s timepieces – even if some of the brands are comparatively obscure.

Diarise the next edition of the fair in September 2015 – and remember that when you take a free day from it, the endlessly fascinating city of Hong Kong, on the shores of beautiful Victoria Harbour, offers innumerable attractions to explore.

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GOLD MANUFACTURING

the Industrial Policy Action Plan to provide a facility production for gold manufacturers to access favourable loans and terms used in jewellery production. The intervention of R100 million will allow South African jewellers to grow and supply the local retail sector and the export markets.

“The latest figures indicate that there are about 1 000 jewellery manufacturers left in the country and that production’s down to 3 500 kg per annum from 7 500 kg in 2004,” he said.

He added that the jewellery sector experienced imports exceeding R1 billion in 2013, while exports were sitting at R467 million in the same year. This is a contrast from imports of R280 million and exports of R466 million recorded in 2004.

“The new scheme is one of the many programmes used as interventions to support and grow the jewellery sector. The Department of Trade & Industry has provided support to more than 60 emerging and established jewellery manufacturers in a number of global exhibitions and will continue to provide such support,” he said.

The Divisional Executive for Corporate Strategy at the Industrial Development Corporation (IDC), Shakeel Meer, said manufacturing challenges need a holistic approach and programmes to address them.

“Working together with the manufacturing sector and identifying challenges they have to deal with on a daily basis provided valuable input to the development of the Gold Loan Scheme,” he said.

Meer urged entrepreneurs to make use of the scheme and move the sector forward.

Applications for the Gold Loan Scheme funding can be done online or submitted to the IDC offices.

R100 million gold loan scheme launched The Minister of Trade & Industry, Dr Rob Davies, launched a Gold Loan Scheme on 30 September to assist emerging and established gold jewellery manufacturers with their working capital loans and needs in Sandton, Johannesburg.

“The Gold Loan Scheme will assist local manufacturers to recapture a big local market which is currently served by imported products, as well as increasing exports to destinations such as the USA where our jewellery can enter duty-free under AGOA and other markets,” said Davies.

Industry players are delighted with the R100 million gold loan scheme.

The working capital loans under it are provided at a fixed interest rate of 3% per annum.

Davies said the scheme was originally identified in

(From left): Dr Rob Davies, of Minister Trade and Industry; Malebo Mabitje-Thompson, MCEP Niche Funding DDG; Shakeel Meer, Divisional Executive IDE.

18

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

brand management

Renowned fashion jeweller announces new Lily Rose collection ly made, vibrant and fashion-forward jewellery brand. Thus Miglio was born.

Miglio recently announced the launch of its new Lily Rose collection.

Inspiration for the collection came from the invitation to design couture Swarovski crystal jewellery to be showcased at the Swarovski World Jewellery Facets exhibition. The exhibition started in Las Vegas in June, then moved to Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Seoul, Tokyo and Paris.

The collection’s appealingly mulLocal jewellery designer Jenny Miller and her husband Mike started a jewellery manufacturing business in the 1980s, supplying top retail stores across SA under their own label. A decade later, brand awareness was on the rise and in a market saturated with massproduced items, there was a need for an ethical-

Ceramic to the fore Ceramic plays a starring role in the newest collection from Saint Honore’s “Lady Ceramic” models.

This sensual material with a soft feel and silky appearance is nevertheless scratch-resistant.

The Swiss-made brand, which is known for its “Paris style”, has launched the Worldcode

ti-functional jewellery will soon be

(also with denim blue Swarovski crystals). This can be worn long or short and is finished with a T-bar and fob closure. It features a burnished silver heart pendant encrusted with a cushion-cut denim blue Swarovski crystal centre. Jenny Miller chose the denim blue crystals as they reminded her of the Atlantic lapping the shores of the Cape.

Also part of the collection is a bracelet in burnished silver featuring denim blue Swarovski crystal beads, charms and twist-and-turn elements. It is also finished with a T-bar and fob closure.

found gracing both local and international high-end retail stores.

The pieces include a couture necklace featuring cushion-cut denim blue Swarovski crystals and burnished silver ethereal accents, finished with lobster clasp fastening, as well as a versatile Lily Rose belcher chain necklace

Lady Ceramic model in a white or black version.

Saint Honore’s elegant style, unique char-

It is a fascinating combination of details with a

acter and watchmaking experience have at-

feminine appeal which is chic and elegant. In a

tracted lovers of contemporary creations the

35 mm case, it has a crown set with black onyx.

world over. The brand combines craftsman-

The stainless steel bezel has a rose gold PVD fin-

ship with a strong emphasis on innovation,

ish, while the sleek dial is black (or white) moth-

its leading collections being Opera, Orsay,

er-of-pearl with elegantly designed Roman nu-

Colosea and Haussman. The brand has an in-

merals and is set with 11 diamonds. The bracelet

tense allure at an exceptional price. It recently

has silvery steel or rose gold vertical inserts; the

celebrated its 12th anniversary and is repre-

movement is quartz and water-resistant to 30 m.

sented in more than 60 countries.

New high-tech collection Despite being known for its pared-down presentations, Rado’s DiaMaster has made an exception for the coming festive season by releasing his and hers models in its latest high-tech collection.

For him, the Rado DiaMaster Skeleton collection is an eye-catching timepiece with ceramic components. A metallic shine begins its life as white. However, placed on a plasma oven where gases activate at 20 000 ºC, the ceramics reach a temperature of 900 ºC and the colour changes to a unique warm grey metallic shine. This colour will

22

not fade over time and will retain its high-tech glow.

The skeleton dial adds depth to this masculine model, in which the automatic mechanical movement lies beneath the cut-out dial. This is a limited edition of 499 numbered pieces.

The ladies’ model is set in a high-tech ceramic case and has a luminous mother-of-pearl dial. At its centre are 36 gleaming diamonds set in a circle. Light and

scratch-resistant, it is the perfect timepiece to wear to the office, while running errands or attending family celebrations.

This glamorous, ultra-feminine model has a case of minimalistic design which gives priority to the dial itself.

Both models have a five-link, high-tech ceramic bracelet which is adaptable to any wrist size for ultimate wearer comfort. This is made possible because of the complex construction of 100 components per bracelet, which take up to an hour to assemble and are a distinct feature of the Rado DiaMaster collection.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

BRAND MANAGEMENT

An exciting new concept Upcoming Danish watch and jewellery brand, Bering, has created an innovative ring collection entitled the Arctic Symphony Collection. The “twist and change” system allows you to develop your own ring, according to your individual taste and it is extremely easy to create.

By simply twisting the decorative elements into each other, the ring is pieced together to design your own unique look. Materials used are high-tech ceramic, Swarovski elements, stainless steel and mesh. As your collection grows, you can customise the look of your personal rings using the wide range of these elements for a variety of designs – for example, you can combine a wide outer

ring with a wide inner one, or fill it with two narrow inner rings.

Whatever combination you decide on, the result is bound to be dazzling, thanks to the unique beauty and pure elements of the Arctic Collection.

This interesting concept is sure to be popular as the festive gifting season approaches. Stocks are already available in SA.

Diane Kruger becomes JaegerLeCoultre ambassador “Diane Kruger is the feminine face of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the perfect embodiment of a Jaeger-LeCoultre woman,” the brand recently stated. “In her, we’ve found our muse and inspiration.”

The face and figure of this ballet dancer, fashion model and actress are known around the world. Countless fashion photos appearing in various magazines have enabled readers to appreciate her beauty and around 30 films have revealed her talent and made her a global icon.

“Both in real life and in front of the camera, Kruger expresses her free-spirited approach to

life. Each of her appearances attracts attention and onlookers never fail to appreciate her choices, particularly in terms of aesthetics and fashion,” says the brand.

For four years now, Jaeger-LeCoultre has enjoyed the thrill of seeing its watches worn by the star on red carpets around the world, including that of the famous Venice International Film Festival. In addition to her role as inspirational muse, Kruger’s also become a brand ambassador.

From the renowned “Joaillerie 101” to the most recent launches, a wide variety of Reverso watches have graced her wrist.

Introducing the King Tonneau 3H Epitomising the inimitable Aquanautic design, the Tonneau watch returns in a new and more stylish than ever variation. Its laser-sculpted dial features four luminescent Arabic numerals, while the day and date appear through openings between four and five o’clock.

The iconic propeller-shaped sweepseconds hand serves as a reminder of the brand’s maritime origins. The powerful lines of the case are topped by a bezel that is interchangeable like the strap and gives the watch a variety of faces, while the sporty crown is protected by an ingenious patented safety clasp inspired by submarine hatches.

The King Tonneau 3H features a mechanical automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Its 47 mm case is of steel and titanium with black PVD treatment and is water-resistant to 50 m.

The Swiss brand Aquanautic was launched in mid 2002 by four experts from various watch making horizons. All are inspired by water, explaining the brands’ name and their choice

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

of settling the show room in the historic clock tower of the famous Place du Molard.

Situated in the centre of Geneva next to the lake, between the elegant rue du Rhône and the busy rue du Marché, this monument is a strategic land mark for Aquanautic since it’s history begins with water and time giving. As of the 14th century the clock tower was part of the lower city enclosure protecting the port and Place du Molard with countless boats drawing up alongside it flooding the central square with the flow of their cargo. It became the harbour office which dealt with all the merchant ships sailing on the Rhône and it's famous clock indicated the time. Regular visits from many watchmakers were required to keep it in working order. One of them, Nicolas Besse, was granted the bourgeoisie of Geneva.

Aquanautic watches are already famous around the world combining aesthetic and technological characteristics.

The delightfully feminine Reference 828 from Bedat & Co is both fascinating and seductive with its delicate curves and its iconic crown guard sparkling with gems to echo the diamond-set bezel. Large Roman numerals stand out against the dial, while the Bedat & Co Geneve logo appears at 8 o’clock proclaiming its origin and its kinship with the ultimate lucky number. It has a mechanical automatic movement and a 42-hour power reserve.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph This year the Bathyscaphe assumes a new selfwinding F385 feature with a flyback chronograph function. This Fifty Fathoms model houses a new 13-lignes manufacture Blancpain movement beating at a rate of 36 000 vibrations per hour. It is equipped with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism and a vertical clutch.

Its flyback function enables the wearer to reset and instantly restart the chronograph by simply pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock.

This device proves extremely useful in taking fast measurements of successive times. More-

over, the water-resistant chronograph pushers enable the timepiece to be used underwater to depths of 300 m. While maintaining all the key technical characteristics of the Fifty Fathoms collection, the aesthetic of the Bathyscaphe picks up the signature codes of the original model.

The domed black dial is free of any numerals, punctuated only by lines and dots serving as hour-markers, while the date appears in a window at 4 o’clock. The sunburst finish on the dial and the snailed chronograph counters add a sense of depth to the overall effect.

Satisfying the demands of storm chasers August saw the local launch of Ball Watch

pieces. The new Fireman Storm Chaser Pro is

As with all Ball watches, the Fireman Storm

Company timepieces by Luxco Importers.

a genuinely professional tool that takes the

Chaser Pro is about light and its indexes and

extreme demands of storm chasers like Wur-

hands are fitted with luminescent micro-

With a rich past closely associated with the history of the American railroads, Ball Watch remains one of the most respected and bestestablished watch brands in the USA. Its Fireman Storm Chaser Pro collection is

man in its stride.

The chronograph is equipped with

tubes containing H3 gas. “This stateof-the-art Swiss technology is 100

a Swiss automatic mechanical move-

times more effective than con-

ment that ensures the timepiece

ventional luminous paints,

the latest of the Storm Chaser chronographs

runs with perfect precision and

yet requires no exterior

designed by Ball Watches under the impetus

records accumulated time up

light or energy source,”

of its partnership with Dr Joshua Wurman, a

to 12 hours. The day and date

asserts the brand. To

distinguished meteorologist and member of

are displayed in two separate

guarantee optimal diffu-

the Ball Explorers Club.

windows at three o’clock. The

sion of the light created

Wurman has been a Ball Watches ambassador since 2008. “His outstanding scientific

stainless steel case is 42 mm in

by the H3 gas, the dial’s

diameter and has a bezel fitted

micro-tubes are raised on

achievements made him a natural choice for

with a matte black anodised alu-

the Ball Explorers Club, which brings together

minium ring.

a host of extraordinary figures who explore new horizons and rise to the greatest challenges,” explains the brand.

With a ScD in meteorology from the Mas-

The dial is available in black, grey and white and has been kept free of

metal appliqués. The micro-gas tubes used for the majority of the hour indexes and the three main hands give off a green light. The in-

superfluous detail to enhance its read-

dexes at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock produce

ability. Sub-dials at 6 and 12 o’clock are

a yellow glow, while the index at 12

sachusetts Institute of Technology, Wurman

worked with grooves that create a con-

is President of the Centre for Severe Weather

trast with the rest of the dial. The use of bright

Research. He is behind the development of

orange for certain gradations on the dial, the

er features of the watch. Finally, the hands

cutting-edge techniques for locating and an-

tip of the seconds hand and the pushbutton

of the sub-dials are coated in luminescent

alysing tornadoes and hurricanes. Among his

that activates the chronograph impart a pow-

blue paint.

many inventions in the field of meteorology

erfully contemporary edge to the piece.

is the revolutionary “Doppler on Wheels”,

o’clock shows up orange in the dark, a discreet reminder of the colour used for oth-

The watch’s mechanical movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal case-back.

which allows scientists to get close to tor-

The Fireman Storm Chaser Pro’s solid con-

nadoes in order to observe their lower levels

struction makes it water-resistant to 100 m

and view their devastating winds in near-real

and able to withstand impacts of up to 5 000

time. This research has improved tornado de-

G. A screwed-in crown and an anti-reflective

tection and helped save many lives.

sapphire crystal complete the model.

The collaboration between Ball Watch and

The Fireman Storm Chaser Pro comes on

Wurman led to the development of “Storm

a stitched calf leather strap which is also

Chaser” chronographs within the Fireman

bright orange, adding a sporty touch. Alter-

collection. This series comprises a number of

natively, the model comes with a stainless

modern and robust, yet super-practical time-

steel bracelet.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

25

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Rapid 3D and Kemtek launch joint venture 3D printing has been utilised in manufacturing for over 20 years and, though once considered a high-priced medium used by an exclusive few, predominantly for rapid prototyping, it’s now becoming an affordable asset for creating final products for virtually any market.

Recognising its huge potential, Kemtek has recently launched a joint venture with KwaZulu-Natal-based Rapid 3D to deliver leading international technologies and expert advice to industry players eager to benefit from 3D printing’s capabilities in packaging and beyond.

Ten years ago, family team Dave, Pauline and Bryan Bullock established Rapid 3D with just one Z Print- e r 310 from the USA-based Z Corporation (now part of 3D Systems), providing a bureau service in the Pietermaritzburg region.

So successful was this venture that by the end of 2005, they’d entered into an agreement with 3D Systems to become its South African agent, supplying systems for the education, medical, industrial, automotive, footwear and jewellery sectors. Fast forward to the present and Rapid 3D’s repertoire has expanded to include advanced 3D printers and scanners from

the world’s biggest personal and professional manufacturers, including 3D Systems (incorporating Z Corporation, Rapidform and Geomagic), EnvisionTEC 3D and Vialux. Three-dimensional scanning has become a significant part of the company’s complete 3D solutions. Applications include re-designing of moulds, dies and mechanical parts, scanning and scaling up artworks, as well as generating CAD models from handmade designs and tooling.

Rapid 3D has built on the Geomagic range of software tools provided by 3D Systems to become experts in this field. Like Kemtek, its ongoing success has been achieved by focusing on service excellence.

“We first touched base with the Kemtek team and Group MD, Gavin van Rensburg, after their visit to Euromold in 2013,” says Dave.

“Kemtek recognises the huge impact 3D printing is set to make on the manufacturing sector and we’re delighted to be partnering with such a highly respected packaging and printing industry player that shares our business values and goals.”

Van Rensburg, for his part, is confident that SA’s printing community is ready to receive up-

to-the-minute advice and information on the merits of adopting 3D printing.

To kick-start the new partnership, Kemtek hosted a special two-day open house at its City Deep head office on 22 and 23 October, where local industry partners could view various 3D technologies in action. Dedicated Kemtek sales technicians, who have already undergone comprehensive training from the Rapid 3D team, were on hand to share their knowledge and advise customers on the longterm benefits of 3D printing, including practical and profitable applications.

“We have numerous 3D printers available nationwide, ranging from R10 000 units to R10 million machines, depending on specific individual requirements,” says Dave. “For businesses wanting a bureau service, we can apply our technical expertise and comprehensive industry knowledge to take a project from design concept right through to prototype. Furthermore, we offer associated technologies and software tools to assist operators in getting the very best out of their chosen systems.”

International brands already integrating 3D printing into their manufacturing operations to create finished parts and/or products include General Electric, Boeing, Ford, Nike, Hershey’s, Hasbro, Mattel and many others.

TW Steel partners with VR|46 brand TW Steel has announced a new partnership with VR|46, the lifestyle brand created by MotoGP legend and current Movistar Yamaha MotoGP rider, Valentino Rossi.

The new TW Steel VR|46/Yamaha Factory Racing Pilot models are presented in a bold steel case with a PVD dark titanium coating. Each bezel has a PVD dark titanium shine finish, while inside both house a Miyota 6S20 big-calibre movement with a black date disc.

The VR|46 touches come with blue accents on the dial and yellow 46 in the second eye of the Chrono. A dark grey silicon strap with a raised VR|46 logo in black completes the look, along with both the VR|46 and Yamaha Factory Racing logo on the case-back. Both are 5 ATM water-resistant.

The new Tech model features similar VR|46 design accents, but starts with a steel case which has a sand-blasted PVD black coating.

Further enhancements include steel pillars on the case side with yellow accents (designed to resemble shock-absorbers) and a carbon fibredesign black dial with raised steel indices.

Also using the powerful Miyota 6S20 movement, the Tech edition sports a black silicon strap with a dark grey line and a sand-blasted PVD black-coated clasp. It is 10 ATM water-resistant.

Using top-quality materials and built to perform, each design of the six-strong VR|46/ Yamaha Factory Racing “By TW Steel” collection is founded on a genuine carbon case.

26

The new watches’ dials proudly feature the VR|46 logo. A steel case-back also features the logo, while a gun-plated steel crown further enhances the more expensive look of each model, as does the use of reinforced mineral crystal.

Each piece houses a powerful Miyota threehand movement, with the dial encompassing a 24-hour indicator and date display. Additional highlights are the colour presentations of the silicon straps – including yellow, white, blue and black editions – while two additional models feature NATO canvas straps for added variety.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

Market Place

LITTLE GEMS

of its muted yellow tone, which slightly resembles gold. No longer associated only with doorknobs, trumpets and locks, it has taken on a new image.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, whereas bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. It is widely used in chains for necklaces and bracelets, often combined with other products such as beads and glass. As well as being chunky, it can also be dainty and light. Contemporary jewellery designers are finding it as malleable as silver or gold.

Pewter jewellery, a fashion trend, is now reappearing in this industry. It is an alloy of metals with a large quantity of tin and smaller amounts of other metals including copper, antimony and bismuth, with the addition of hard metals. It is regarded as a soft, versatile metal alloy. The Celts used pewter to make knot-work patterns in jewellery because of its long-lasting sheen. It does not scratch or tarnish easily.

New pewter today is free of lead and is a non-allergenic material that is cheaper than gold and therefore enables more affordable jewellery. It has the appearance of silver jewellery and is easy to care for, taking less time to polish than silver.

Glass was used in Egyptian jewellery and in its present guise it is possibly bestknown by visitors to Venice and the Murano Glass Works. Its glass pendants, in particular, are colourful, attractive and “mod”. A newer form is Dichroic glass, which provides splashes of colour in rings, earrings and pendants.

Shell jewellery is usually associated with tropical islands, but a more sophisticated use of this material is for cameos. The art of cameo carving has been around since antiquity and while some cameos are carved from more sophisticated materials such as semi-precious gemstones, the more common forms – from Italy, for example and particularly from Sorrento, where it is a vibrant industry – effectively use the layers of different colours in the shell to give importance to the main subject of the carving.

The species of helmet shell and conch, the former with layers of brown and white, the conch pink and white, facilitate carving achieved on the top part of the shell, whereas the white layer is deep enough for detailed working.

Making a material difference Most people tend to think of precious metals when considering jewellery materials. However, Alice Weil looks at a host of different ones, from ancient times to the present day.

Copper and brass are but two which have appeared – and still do – for self-adornment since the days of the Pharoahs when copper discs were inlaid with slivers of cornelian and a green and black glazed compound.

In the Early Byzantium period, a copper alloy was often tinted or gilded to imitate the richness of gold.

In African countries copper has been used by tribes for self-adornment since time immemorial. It captures the allure of Africa and at the present time there are companies in Mpumalanga creating hand-finished jewellery in earthy colours inspired by Ndabele culture which capture the mystique of a longforgotten era. In more sophisticated urban areas, a copper bracelet is reputed to have therapeutic powers.

A now obsolete process applied to a copper base which was used extensively in France until the end of the 19th century, when it was outlawed, was Ormolu, found extensively on furniture and clocks, notably from the French Empire period. It has been replaced by silvergilt (Vermeil).

But Ormolu was an interesting process which used finely-ground high-carat gold in an amalgam of mercury applied to bronze. It

28

was known in English as gilt-bronze and by the French as bronze d‘or. It was usually applied to a piece of copper. However, because of the mercury content in the amalgam, which was exposed to extreme heat until it was burnt out, it was a dangerous operation for the workman and was banned in France.

Also discarded, although at one time a popular material, was pinchbeck, named after a Fleet Street watchmaker who invented an alloy of zinc and copper which resembled gold. The term is now loosely applied to any gold-coloured metal used in 19th century jewellery. Although difficult to find today, it looks much richer in colour than any other alloy, wears better and tarnishes less. When the use of lower-carat gold was made legal in the mid19th century, pinchbeck became redundant.

Brass has become a popular metal in fashion jewellery and is seen on the catwalks and in shopping malls. It provides a touch of class to cheaper jewellery because

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014