SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • October 2021

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OCTOBER 2021

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SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052 Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

10. NEWS • Forevermark Icon collection originally designed to represent brilliance of SA’s night sky • Botswana secures 500 000 doses of Moderna vaccine with funding support from De Beers • Shimansky wins prestigious international design award in Las Vegas • 2021 CIBJO Congress to take place virtually • Queen Marie Antoinette’s diamonds for sale in Geneva

14. DON’T PLAY THE WAITING GAME! The lead-up to December is a period filled with sales opportunities – but ensuring that you have supply to fulfil demands, managing extra staff and meeting high customer expectations can also make it very stressful. We bring you four vital retail strategies to help ensure your store is prepared for the gifting season.

16. STRATEGIES TO EMERGE FROM A PANDEMIC How do businesses combat these difficult COVID-19 times and come out the other side relatively unscathed? Warren Bonheim, Managing Director of Zinia, a leading ICT and telecoms provider, shares strategies for success.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Test your knowledge of gemstones and jewellery with this fun quiz, then check how well you did on p42.

OCTOBER 2021

Responsibly sourced Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies.

Championing transparency and trust

36. SETTING GEMSTONES FOR SPRING

gemfields.com

18. THE RAINBOW GEMSTONE Tourmaline is one of the birthstones for October (the other is opal) and is often described as being a “rainbow of colours”.

Read more about this extraordinary gemstone.

Jason Laing, CEO and co-founder of ProMake, explains how you can build your jewellery business and highlights the importance of a digital presence.

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When setting coloured stones, one needs to know about their inclusions, as well as their structure. Adine Lutz of Ajanta Africa explains the special requirements for setting certain stones, the application of heat and the use of an ultrasonic cleaner.

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34. THE BIG TRADE ISSUE GEMSTONE AND JEWELLERY QUIZ

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On the cover Gemfields is a world-leading supplier of responsibly sourced coloured gemstones.

As well as supplying the majority of

43. PERPETUATING A RUSSIAN TRADITION Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

the world’s rough rubies and emeralds, Gemfields initiates activations to build desire for coloured gemstones: for example, collaborations with international jewellery brands and other creative partners. Often surprising, unexpected, and unique, these collaborations are chosen to promote consumer awareness and increase the appeal of coloured gemstones, raising their profile, and, in turn, providing greater benefit to their place of origin in Africa. For more information, visit gemfields.com

30. SEVEN KEYS TO RETAIL SUCCESS IN THE POSTCOVID-19 WORLD The COVID-19 pandemic has dramatically changed both the retail world and consumer expectations – and retailers must adjust to the new reality. Rob Bates shares seven “imperatives for rethinking retail”.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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ED’S NOTE | SAJN

Introducing JewelStart

Approach risk with purpose.

WELCOME, RETAILERS, TO WHAT I AM sure is your favourite time of year! With December around the corner, you are undoubtedly preparing for the rush of the gifting season – and, needless to say, jewellery and watches are always very popular items. However, while you may assume that foot traffic will be busy in your store over the next three months, particularly December, it is important not to take anything for granted and prepare your outlet as best you can.

This special edition of SAJN – The Big Trade Issue – is a fresh, exciting and essential platform which aims to assist the industry, especially retailers, at this profitable buying period. We have recruited experts from various fields in the industry to ensure we give you the best guidance.

Still on that theme, we have put together four vital retail strategies to help ensure your store is festive-fit: stock preparation and smart management, teamwork to make the dream work, planning your displays and advertising your sales. Read more about what each of these entails.

Emerging successfully from an economic downturn and pandemic is very difficult, especially without large cash reserves to see you through. How do businesses combat these challenging times and come out the other side relatively unscathed? Warren Bonheim, Managing Director of Zinia, a leading ICT and telecoms provider, shares his strategies for success.

According to a new report from McKinsey C & Co and the Retail Industry Leaders’ M Association, the COVID-19 pandemic has Y dramatically changed both the retailing world and consumer expectations – and CM retailers must adjust to the new reality. Rob MY Bates shares the report’s seven “imperatives CY for rethinking retail”.

CMY Jason Laing, CEO and co-founder of ProMake, shares guidelines for building K your jewellery business and highlights the importance of a digital presence. Laing, who currently lives in the UK, started his career in the jewellery sector in SA. We have also included a gemstone and jewellery quiz, so test your knowledge with our 40 questions. It is all in good fun, so grab a pencil, mark your answers and then check them on page 42.

One of the birthstones for October is tourmaline, also known as the “rainbow gemstone”. Legend has it that the gemstone passed through a rainbow on its way to earth, bringing with it all sorts of colours.

Learn more about tourmaline in this issue.

Remember, preparation and planning remain the top two assets you need for a successful holiday shopping season. Use these next two months wisely and you will undoubtedly reap the rewards during December.

Happy reading!

Dear Members We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery, Fine Art & Specie division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, offers entry-level, bespoke cover for entrepreneurs and small businesses.

“JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions for jewellery businesses that are navigating changing market conditions and challenges that have been exacerbated by the pandemic. It is ideal for new entrants to the jewellery industry or businesses that have had to adapt their strategy to operate in less conventional ways. For example, those servicing customers from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellery, Fine Art & Specie.

Bryte is excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council, for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the new start-up jewellery business.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

Adri Viviers brytesa.com

Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703)

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

Policy terms and conditions apply.

SAJN | NEWS

SHIMANSKY WINS PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL DESIGN AWARD IN LAS VEGAS South African diamond jewellery brand Shimansky was awarded Best in Gold at the internationally recognised Couture Design Show Awards 2021, held at Wynn, Las Vegas. This was a first for a South African jewellery brand.

Shimansky, which has its flagship store at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, is known for its classic and contemporary creations.

“As a first-time exhibitor, I’m honoured and proud to accept this award,” said Yair Shimansky, founder and CEO of the organisation.

The Couture Design Awards Show is an exceptional curation of designer fine jewellery and luxury timepieces and is regarded as one

of the leading jewellery shows in the USA for designers and international brands.

“This dazzling collection of jewellery is demonstrative of what happens when the world’s most creative minds stretch the boundaries of design,” said the Couture Show organisers.

The never-before-seen design which took home the gold was the Shimansky infinity ring in 18ct yellow, white and rose gold, designed to capture precious memories and symbolise everlasting love.

BOTSWANA SECURES 500 000 VACCINES WITH FUNDING SUPPORT FROM DE BEERS Botswana has secured access to 500 000 doses of the Moderna COVID-19 vaccine.

The country’s government has signed a memorandum of agreement with Moderna to procure the doses, aided by funding from the De Beers Group, Debswana and DTC Botswana (DTCB) following the financial pledge made by the three companies in June 2021 to support the vaccine roll-out in Botswana. Their financial contribution has funded 40% of the cost of the vaccines.

Due to the ongoing global shortages of vaccines, the doses will be delivered to Botswana in phases. “There continues to be an extremely high level of global demand for COVID-19 vaccines, so securing access to this large tranche of doses is a very important step in our ongoing fight against the pandemic,” says Dr Edwin Dikoloti, Minister of Health and Wellness. “This will help accelerate our national vaccination programme and we’ll continue working tirelessly to secure further vaccine doses at the earliest

possible opportunity. We thank our partners in the De Beers Group, Debswana and DTCB for their ongoing support.”

“The COVID-19 Delta variant has increased the challenges being experienced around the globe and we’re committed to standing shoulder to shoulder with our partners in Botswana, both to address urgent needs and to support the nation’s longer-term recovery,” says Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group.

“De Beers’ belief in Botswana, its people and their future remains unshakable. Partnership has always been at the heart of our relationship with the people of Botswana and it’s more important now than ever before.”

Alongside funding vaccine procurement, the financial pledge made by the De Beers Group, Debswana and DTCB in support of Botswana’s vaccine roll-out has also been used for inkind support. This includes the establishment of the Jwaneng Mine Hospital Vaccination Centre and the Debswana Corporate

Centre vaccination point in Gaborone. The designated areas have been set up in line with the established requirements for vaccination centres, with guidance from the District Health Management Team.

The De Beers Group, Debswana and DTCB collectively have now provided more than P100 million of COVID-19 relief support to Botswana since the start of the pandemic. Alongside the P55 million pledge made in June 2021, the three companies made a combined P46,5 million financial and in-kind donation to the country’s government last year. This formed their early contribution to the country’s COVID-19 emergency response and funded a range of essential healthcare equipment and initiatives, including polymerase chain reaction machines, test kits, sanitisers, training of healthcare workers, personal protective equipment, isolation centres and the establishment of the testing centres in Orapa and Jwaneng, as well as at the Debswana Corporate Centre.

FOREVERMARK ICON COLLECTION ORIGINALLY DESIGNED TO DEPICT SA’S NIGHT SKY De Beers Forevermark has introduced the Forevermark Icon collection. Originally designed to represent the brilliance of the stars in the South African night sky, while also mirroring the outline of a diamond – two symbols of eternity – the icon has been reimagined in the new diamond jewellery line. The collection features distinct settings to enhance the beauty of the De Beers Forevermark diamonds it features.

“It’s created for those seeking to celebrate their unique style or capture a significant mo-

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ment,” says the brand. “This symbolic jewellery collection is intended to be worn every day as a continuous reminder of the brilliance within you.”

The Forevermark Icon collection comprises stylish earrings, asymmetrical bangles, distinctive rings and contemporary pendants crafted from 18ct yellow, white and rose gold. With designs featuring ornate openwork, colourful enamel applications, pavé-set diamonds and various diamond shapes, the collection offers fine jewellery that can be worn on its own or layered with

other pieces to make a unique statement.

“The Forevermark Icon collection is very special and holds deep meaning for us as a brand,” says Nancy Liu, CEO of De Beers Forevermark.

“With its iconic design and exquisite craftsmanship, the collection is a contemporary symbol of confidence and positivity, the perfect treat for someone wanting to celebrate themselves.

Like a star, the collection is a shining beacon, reminding us to embrace who we are and believe in ourselves.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

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NEWS | SAJN

QUEEN MARIE ANTOINETTE’S DIAMONDS FOR SALE IN GENEVA On 9 November 2021, Christie’s will offer the Marie Antoinette Diamonds as lot 1 of its live Magnificent Jewels Auction to be held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva. Presented in their current form, the 112 diamonds, originally belonging to Queen Marie Antoinette of France (1755-1793), are set as a historic pair of bracelets (estimated at US$2 000 000-US$4 000 000).

Over the past 255 years, Christie’s has offered many historic jewels from royal houses around the world. “It’s a privilege to be able to offer these exceptional and unique bracelets, which will attract bidding from collectors globally,” comments François Curiel, Chairperson of Christie’s Luxury. “As seen in recent Geneva sales, the market for jewels of noble provenance continues to perform extremely well.”

In 1776, Marie Antoinette had been queen of France for two years and was already recognised as a role model of elegance and style. She could not resist jewellery – especially diamonds. In the spring of 1776, she bought two diamond bracelets for 250 000 livres, a huge sum at the time. According to Count Mercy-Argenteau, Austria’s ambassador to France, this was paid partly in gemstones from the queen’s collection and partly with funds she received from her husband, King Louis XVI. Recent discoveries by jewellery historian Vincent Meylan show that in February 1777, the king’s personal papers stated: “To the queen: down payment of 29 000 livres for the diamond bracelets she bought from Boehmer.”

2021 CIBJO CONGRESS TO TAKE PLACE VIRTUALLY CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, will hold its 2021 annual congress virtually from Monday, 1 November to Thursday, 4 November and then from Monday, 15 November to Thursday, 18 November.

The congress will be conducted on the new Zoom Events platform, which allows delegates to mingle and interact in a common area both between and during formal meetings.

The November sessions are being timed to enable optimal attendance by delegates linking in from multiple time zones. For that reason, only one or two sessions lasting a maximum of two-and-a-half hours each will be held on any given day. The proceedings will be recorded so that delegates who were unable to participate can review a session after the event.

Some of the congress sessions, including the opening ceremony, will open to public participation and registration for them will open on 1 October 2021. Other sessions will be by invitation only.

CIBJO congresses serve as the official gathering place for the World Jewellery Confederation’s global membership and are also the venue for the annual meetings of the organisation’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to its definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.

The CIBJO Congress is also where the programme of World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation, relating to responsible and sustainable activities in the industry and CIBJO’s ongoing co-operation with the United Nations and its development programme, is reported on.

“We would have been delighted to hold an in-person event, but ultimately felt that under current conditions, a virtual congress is the safer alternative, allowing the participation of the greatest number of delegates,” explained CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri.

A dedicated CIBJO Congress 2021 website has been launched at: www. cibjo.org/congress2021.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

SAJN | RETAIL MANAGEMENT THE LEAD-UP TO DECEMBER IS A period filled with sales opportunities – but ensuring that you have supply to fulfil demands, managing extra staff and meeting high customer expectations can also make it one of the most stressful annual periods. Preparing your jewellery business in time for a successful gifting is key. SAJN has put together four vital retail strategies to help ensure your store is prepared for December.

Stock preparation and smart management The importance of early ordering cannot be stressed enough. Ensuring that you have the inventory to meet the demand of your customer base is crucial to your jewellery store’s success. If you are not prepared, you will not have enough supply to meet all your customers’ expectations and they will take their business elsewhere. Like any other holiday, many customers wait until the last minute to purchase their gifts, which will not leave time for you to order more inventory.

The last thing you want is for disappointed customers to go to your competition for their gifting needs, so make sure you have ordered all of the most-likely-to-be-sold pieces in time.

“We already start reminding retailers and other big clients at the beginning of July to start placing their orders for the gifting season in December,” says Johan Bezuidenhout, Managing Director of manufacturer and mass producer Richline SA. “Those who haven’t placed their orders yet should do so now. Our second half of the year’s production is much bigger than that of the first six months. Where it might take four to six weeks for big orders to be made during the first half of the year, it takes at least six to eight weeks during the second half. Ideally, pieces should be in stores no later than the end of October in order for stores to start marketing them by the beginning of November.”

Smart stock management is also crucial.

Reviewing what did and did not work during the previous year’s festive period is essential.

What were the best-performing categories?

Were there any customer requests that were not satisfied? The secret to more sales is having more of the right product. The right product is the one your customers are telling you they like.

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The countdown to December has begun! You don’t even need to be part of the jewellery business to know that the next three months mark a very busy (and profitable) time of year for the industry.

Don’t play the waiting game!

Teamwork makes the dream work One of the biggest challenges over Christmas is staffing. Ensuring you have the right number of staff available during busy periods and extended hours is vital in order not to keep your customers waiting. A successful store is only as strong as its staff and the way jewellery storeowners manage their businesses this festive season will ultimately make or break sales.

For most customers, it is important to speak to someone during their final purchase decision. Knowledgeable, well-trained sales associates are a differentiating factor when choosing one business over another. As there are likely to be new casual staff over Christmas, it is important to get them up to speed as quickly as possible. Ensure they know

RETAIL MANAGEMENT | SAJN

The importance of early ordering cannot be stressed enough. Ensuring that you have the inventory to meet the demand of your customer base is crucial to your jewellery store’s success. If you are not prepared, you will not have enough supply to meet all your customers’ expectations and they will take their business elsewhere. with anyone stepping into their store. Studies show that when people feel nostalgic, they are more amenable to suggestions, better able to engage with the symbolism and stories behind their purchases and willing to pay more

your stock well enough to answer questions about its origins, who crafted it, how to care for it and why an item is an appropriate choice for a particular recipient.

There are a number of opportunities to upsell, cross-sell and offer alternative products.

These can significantly increase average profit per transaction, so provide your team with the right tools they need to deliver a great in-store experience for your customers and maximise margins.

Plan your displays Make sure your displays (ie window and instore displays, as well as shop layouts) grab shoppers’ attention and entice them to buy.

Start planning what you will showcase in your store and craft the stories you tell through your displays.

From a logistical standpoint, ensure you have the materials to set up stunning displays, including lights, props and signage. December is a time of excitement, nostalgia, family and – above all – reflection. It is therefore imperative that retailers forge emotional connections

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

for them.

A good tip is to set aside a few minutes each week to experience your shop as if you and your staff were customers. Enter your shop and walk through it as if you were doing so for the first time. You could also photograph your store – the windows, displays, counters, aisles, fixtures, tables and walls – and make a note of what needs fixing. Be aware of whether the lighting in your store is too harsh or too dim.

What is the noise level like inside the store?

Is it too hot or cold? Are you and your staff appropriately dressed (professional, but not formal)? Are there one or two chairs where customers can sit if they need time to talk to a salesperson and examine different items?

Little things can make a big difference.

Advertise your sales Secret Santa buyers, last-minute shoppers, earlybird consumers and generous high-value giftgivers; retailers should be targeting all of these customers both off- and online (via e-mails and social media). Advertising your jewellery store during the weeks leading up to December can be vital to your success; however, the platform used can make all the difference. With jewellery stores being ubiquitous, you need to understand your particular customer base in order to advertise and market appropriately.

It might seem obvious, but retailers would do well to remember to update websites and social media accounts with any special Christmas trading hours. January sales are also great additions to any Christmas marketing strategy to help boost business in the golden quarter. You have to let your customers know what is going on and when – there is nothing worse than a missed sale!

This should be a time to enjoy, not fret over.

By utilising these helpful tips, you can increase your sales without the stress that normally comes with this time of year. Order your stock on time and order smart, be knowledgeable about trends and what your customers are going to want, plan your displays and advertise your jewellery store and merchandise via the correct platform. These simple things will ensure that this festive season is your most successful – and merriest – one yet!

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SAJN | BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

Strategies to emerge from a pandemic Emerging successfully from an economic downturn and pandemic is no easy feat, especially without large cash reserves to see you through. How do businesses combat these difficult times and come out the other side relatively unscathed? Warren Bonheim, Managing Director of Zinia, a leading ICT and telecoms provider, shares his strategies for success.

Invest in people and service During tough times, leaders may seek to cut costs through their wage bill.

However, making a strategic decision not to carry out retrenchments may be better, as it allows you to protect the livelihood of employees who make a high level of customer service possible.

It also proves that you are loyal to your employees, preserving their satisfaction and motivation, which leads to a productive and positive company culture.

“Zinia made the decision to stand by its employees and demonstrate its commitment to personalised service by limiting retrenchment during the lockdown,” says Bonheim. “We also improved the customer

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experience by incorporating easy-to-understand tools, sales documents, processes, checks, service-level agreements and customer satisfaction surveys to make dealing with the company effortless.” In the same way, links to provide customer feedback are readily available at a variety of touchpoints, making it easy for customers to share their thoughts.

Give recognition

ees responsible for them to be given validation and recognition. Negative reviews can be investigated and the challenges properly identified – be they in processes, people or systems – to inform future strategies on how to improve the business.

“When we get a positive review, everyone at Zinia celebrates, and when we get a negative one, we see it as an opportunity to learn,” says Bonheim. “It’s difficult not to take a negative review

Getting buy-in from executive-level members is also imperative to implementing these strategies. Reviews – both positive and negative – should be monitored regularly by executive-level company members.

This allows positive reviews and the employ-

personally at Zinia because every staff member’s so passionate about customer service. However, we know we’re doing something right when 97% of our customers rate us a 4 out of 5 and above for service excellence.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

BUSINESS MANAGEMENT | SAJN Creating a positive service culture through internal communication initiatives and leading by example are essential. After all, if your company members do not believe in what you are doing, you will struggle to implement any strategy within the company.

Digitise appropriately Another strategic decision that paid off for Zinia was investing in a digitisation strategy in 2018 that carefully considered which key business processes could be automated to support, manage and sustain the business’s growth.

Automation has an incredible capacity to drive efficiencies and ensure that customer service is not compromised by lightening some of the manual administrative load. Investments in IT systems, customer engagement and ticketing, productivity monitoring and more allowed Zinia to remain strong during 2020 while other businesses struggled.

“Our investment in an IT-managed service platform known as ZMS allowed us to virtually manage our customers’ IT and network environments, improve efficiency and productivity of our own internal resources, proactively service our customers and minimise our downtime,” says Bonheim.

Effective digitisation allows a company to be flexible and pivot according to challenges, both big or small, that they may face. During a crisis like the COVID-19 pandemic, a solid digital infrastructure allows for remote working when needed, providing everything the employee needs – Internet, access to business systems, telephony, etc – so that they can work productively.

Any good business strategy should focus on implementing the systems and controls necessary for the company to scale and provide the flexibility to react quickly. In Zinia’s case, its combination of systems and entrepreneurial flair allowed its team to investigate the implications and opportunities within the crisis quickly when international rumours of a lockdown first began.

This resulted in the company being ready for lockdown with remote working solutions which included hosted voice-over PBX and custom productivity tools that could be delivered virtually. These solutions answered a very real business need in the market: how to manage employees’ remote activities, identify operational inefficiencies, keep abreast of productivity trends and prevent any IT security risks of remote working.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

Word of mouth has, to a certain extent, been digitised, with many customers often deciding who to contact by consulting Google and social media reviews. This strategy embraces transparency by asking customers to go public with their experience across digital platforms.

Embracing a digital way of interacting includes benefits such as increased sales activity and output of work, reduced travelling costs, reduced time spent travelling, reduced printing costs, etc.

Using these business strategies can combat downturns in the economy, provide consistent feedback on business health and help organisations inspire trust in clients by delivering value in today’s world.

Creativity and innovation are key to running any business, but especially in rapidly changing

Despite multiple challenges over the years, Warren Bonheim, MD and co-founder of Zinia, is a self-made entrepreneur whose resilience and passion for constant improvement have made him a reputable leader. At 40 years of age, he runs a multimillion-rand business that continues to grow year-on-year since its inception in 2009.

Zinia is focused on delivering superior IT, Internet and voice solutions for businesses with an unparalleled service experience – a positioning which has resonated with the market, fuelling the company’s growth even during tough market conditions.

climates, where they can make or break a company’s success.

Businesses with strong growth strategies, forward-thinking decision-makers and positive workplace cultures are emerging from the pandemic stronger than ever. While many will agree that a full-time work-from-home approach is not sustainable, with the correct strategy and investment in infrastructure, one can create effective office- and home-based work scenarios which, in turn, create more resilient companies, with leaner operating models and more positive cultures that recognise and support the human element of successful businesses.

When he started Zinia at the age of 29, Bonheim’s experience as a 20-something entrepreneur had already matured and shaped his business acumen. From the outset, Zinia was run like a big business with tight controls, a strong management team, statistics to inform decision-making and a process methodology revolving around simplicity and innovation.

With a strong leadership team in place and a passion for constantly seeking “what’s next”, Bonheim enjoys the freedom he has to develop and execute growth strategies for the company – a role ideally suited to his energy and drive.

17

SAJN | TOURMALINE: THE OCTOBER BIRTHSTONE

The rainbow gemstone Tourmaline is one of the birthstones for October (the other is opal) and is often described as being a rainbow of colours. Legend has it that the gemstone passed through a rainbow on its way to earth, bringing with it all sorts of colours.

WHILE OPAL WAS ORIGINALLY THE GEM trade’s recognised birthstone for October, the Jewelry Industry Council in the USA suggested in 1952 that pink tourmaline be an alternative birthstone for that month. The change was accepted and approved by the American Gem Society and the National Retail Jewelers’ Council.

Although the original designation for tourmaline was pink, today many people accept tourmaline of any colour as the October birthstone.

Tourmaline comes in nearly every shade one can find on a colour chart or colour wheel, which has made it a very popular stone in recent years. Its name comes from the Sinhalese (Sri Lankan) term “turmali”, meaning “stone of mixed colours”.

“Tourmaline” is the name of a large group of boron silicate minerals. These minerals share a common crystal structure and similar physical properties, but vary tremendously in chemical composition. The wide range of compositions and colour-zoning within crystals causes tourmalines to occur in more colours and colour combinations than any other mineral group.

“Colour names” make the language of tourmaline gems simple for consumers. If jewellers had to sell them by their scientific names, the chemical composition of each gem would need to be determined to ensure that the names used to describe them were absolutely accurate. This would create confusion, waste time and be an enormous expense. Jewellers and gemmologists therefore use trade names for different colours of tourmaline to simplify communications with their customers: red tourmaline is sold as “rubellite”; blue tourmaline is sold as “indicolite”,

18

green tourmaline coloured by chromium vanadium is often sold as “chrome tourmaline” and black tourmaline is sold as “schorl”. For other tourmaline shades, the name of the colour is usually used as an adjective – eg “pink tourmaline” or “purple tourmaline”. “Yellow tourmaline” is sometimes sold as “canary tourmaline”.

Clarity is an important aspect of tourmaline and it can actually be as transparent as a diamond.

Ready availability keeps tourmaline prices reasonable. Small tourmalines (under 5ct) are fairly easy to obtain at modest cost. Only when the stones are extremely rare or finely coloured do prices exceed a few hundred dollars per carat.

Most colours are fairly common, but pure blue, red, orange, yellow and purple stones are rare. Such stones usually command higher prices. Colour-change tourmalines are also exceptionally rare. Neon-blue paraíba tourmalines, raspberry-red rubellites and emerald-green chrome tourmalines are especially prized.

Most commonly, tourmaline is found in Brazil. However, it can also be found in Afghanistan, Pakistan, Kenya, Mozambique, Madagascar and other countries. It is even mined in California and Maine in the USA. Suited to everyday wear, tourmaline is a relatively hard stone. With a Mohs hardness of 7-7,5, it tolerates light and most chemicals,

but heat can damage a tourmaline jewel. For proper jewellery care when cleaning, use warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Ultrasonic or steam cleaners may damage the stone.

Heat and irradiation are common treatments used to improve the colour of tourmaline and both are commonly done after the stones have been cut and polished. Traces of these treatments can be undetectable, even when viewed with a gemmological microscope.

Imitation tourmaline is occasionally seen. Popular watermelon and other parti-coloured tourmalines are common targets of imitators, but are easy to detect with a microscope or loupe.

Most colours are fairly common, but pure blue, red, orange, yellow and purple stones are rare. Such stones usually command higher prices.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

JEWELLERY

Suppliers of moissanite calibrated stones and moissanite jewellery Competitive quality & competitive prices All larger stones certified and engraved with serial numbers Names and dates of personal information can be engraved on the girdle of the stone (on request) Product Number

Shape/Cut

Size in MM

Quantity

Price/Per Carat

Price per stone

1001

Round Faceted

0,80

1 carat (340 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 3,24

1002

Round Faceted

0,90

1 carat (250 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 4,40

1003

Round Faceted

1,00

1 carat (200 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 5,50

1004

Round Faceted

1,10

1 carat (170 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 6,47

1005

Round Faceted

1,20

1 carat (125 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 8,80

1006

Round Faceted

1,30

1 carat (100 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 11,00

1007

Round Faceted

1,40

1 carat (85 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 15,94

1008

Round Faceted

1,50

1 carat (70 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 15,71

1009

Round Faceted

1,60

1 carat (60 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 18,33

1010

Round Faceted

1,70

1 carat (50 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 22,00

1011

Round Faceted

1,80

1 carat (40 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 27,50

1012

Round Faceted

1,90

1 carat (37 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 29,73

1013

Round Faceted

2,00

1 carat (35 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 31,43

1014

Round Faceted

2,10

1 carat (30 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 36,66

1015

Round Faceted

2,20

1 carat (25 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 44,00

1016

Round Faceted

2,30

1 carat (22 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 50,00

1017

Round Faceted

2,40

1 carat (20 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 55,00

1018

Round Faceted

2,50

1 carat (17 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 64,71

1019

Round Faceted

2,60

1 carat (16 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 68,75

1020

Round Faceted

2,70

1 carat (15 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 73,33

1021

Round Faceted

2,80

1 carat (13 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 84,62

1022

Round Faceted

2,90

1 carat (11 pieces)

R 1 100,00

R 100,00

Product Number

Shape/Cut

Size in MM

Price/Piece colourless

Price/Piece near colourless

Appr. CT weight

1023

Round Faceted

3,00

R 200,00

R 170,00

0,09

1024

Round Faceted

3,25

R 225,00

R 191,25

0,12

1025

Round Faceted

3,50

R 250,00

R 212,50

0,14

1026

Round Faceted

4,00

R 350,00

R 297,50

0,22

1027

Round Faceted

4,50

R 450,00

R 382,50

0,29

1028

Round Faceted

5,00

R 550,00

R 467,50

0,41

1029

Round Faceted

5,50

R 700,00

R 595,00

0,54

1030

Round Faceted

6,00

R 850,00

R 722,50

0,68

1031

Round Faceted

6,50

R 1 300,00

R 1 105,00

0,88

1032

Round Faceted

7,00

R 1 850,00

R 1 572,50

1,10

1033

Round Faceted

7,50

R 2 200,00

R 1 870,00

1,35

1034

Round Faceted

8,00

R 3 000,00

R 2 550,00

1,60

1035

Round Faceted

8,50

R 3 700,00

R 3 145,00

1,90

1036

Round Faceted

9,00

R 4 500,00

R 3 825,00

2,26

1037

Round Faceted

9,50

R 5 200,00

R 4 420,00

2,75

1038

Round Faceted

10,00

R 6 250,00

R 5 312,50

3,08

1039

Round Faceted

10,50

R 7 100,00

R 6 035,00

3,57

1040

Round Faceted

11,00

R 8 400,00

R 7 140,00

4,11

1041

Round Faceted

11,50

R 9 500,00

R 8 075,00

4,72

1042

Round Faceted

12,00

R 11 000,00

R 9 350,00

5,32

CONTACT US DIRECTLY FOR ANY INQUIRIES AND AVAILABILITY

A variety of shapes and colours available

Mizane Jewellery • Ken (076 049 9457 / 011 485 3784) or Jarred (083 320 4832) • www.mizanejewellery.co.za

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE ISSUE 23 23

ISSUE 23 DIAMOND-CUTTING

UNLOCKING THE BRILLIANCE • Classification of rough • Stages in the manufacture of polished diamonds •

Why do cutters still produce a badly cut stone?

Courtesy De Beers

Various crystal forms displayed by rough diamonds.

Rough diamond crystals are beautiful in themselves and were treasured for many centuries for their scarcity, hardness and adamantine lustre.

•

Near-gem quality, ie, industrial-quality stones with transparent areas that can be cut into small saleable gems, often brown in colour.

During the 14th century, Venetian glass-cutters discovered how to polish facets on the rough crystal which improved the gem’s sparkle. Since then, polishing techniques and the various cutting styles have been refined and today, diamond-cutting and polishing is done in many countries.

The major cutting centres in the world are in India, China, Israel, Belgium and the USA.

•

Industrial-quality, non-transparent stones with irregular shapes, sometimes as cubes.

Diamonds are 1 000 times harder than steel and can only be cut and polished with another diamond. There are various stages in the processing of diamonds and it requires different craftsmen to unlock their beauty. Much patience, skill and attention to detail are required of these craftsmen. Also, a thorough knowledge of a diamond’s internal crystal structure, called grain, is needed.

CLASSIFICATION OF ROUGH DIAMONDS Rough diamonds are generally classified as either of: • Gem quality, ie, transparent, mainly octahedral and dodecahedral crystals.

Individual stones are classified into sizes, colours and their crystal shape. Terms such as “makeables”, “sawables”, “irregulars and shapes”, “flats and mackles”, “bort” and “cleavages” are used to describe the various categories of gem-quality rough. Buying rough diamonds is much easier today than in the past. Modern machines can predict the colour and laser-map the morphology of any rough diamond.

AN INTRODUCTION DIAMOND-CUTTING TO GEMSTONES

edge of which is covered with a paste of oil and diamond dust.The blade rotates at 8 500-12 500 rpm and it may take an hour to a full day to cut through a 1ct stone. Four- point sawing is done along a cubic plane, while two-point sawing is done along one of the dodecahedral planes.

Fancy coloured rough diamonds.

MARKING THE ROUGH The rough stone is analysed by an expert using a magnifying glass, calipers, a pen and Indian ink. His job is to maximise the value of the rough gem by determining the best way to cut it. Often the surface of the rough is matt and the stone needs to be “opened”. Two window facets are polished on opposite ends which allow the marker to see into the stone and determine the size and location of inclusions. He then marks an ink line on the surface of the gem along which it must be sawed or split (cleaved).

Modern computerised machines are available that analyse the shape of the rough, draw sections through it and mark the cutting line of stones as small as 1 mm.

Sawing through a diamond with a phosphor-bronze blade.

Marking a saw line on a rough diamond.

Sometimes it may not be necessary to saw or cleave a diamond and it is put on the polishing wheel as it is.

This type of stone is called a makeable, in contrast to a sawable, which needs to be sawn first.

Joseph Asscher cleaving the Cullinan diamond.

BRUTING OR GIRDLING

Computerised image of rough diamond indicating the cut line and two polished stones positioned for maximum recovery.

CLEAVING OR SAWING A diamond can be split by hand along one of its octahedral cleavage planes. To do this, the stone is firmly attached to a special stick with cleavage cement and another diamond is used to make a nick or a “kerf ” on the edge of the diamond to be cleaved. A special steel blade is placed in the kerf and the blade is tapped with a wooden stick or steel rod, causing the stone to split along the cleavage plane. This method is used mainly for large, irregular-shaped rough.

Alternatively, a diamond can be sawn in a non-cleavage direction with the use of a thin phosphor-bronze blade, the

The sawn or cleaved stone now has to be shaped. This is done by glueing it on a lathe and manually holding another diamond against the spinning stone. The result should be a perfectly rounded girdle set exactly parallel to the table. Modern automatic bruting machines which employ the same principles of “diamond against diamond” are used in the larger cutting factories.

Diamond against diamond in the bruting process.

ISSUE 23

GRINDING OR BLOCKING The partly-finished stone is now ready to be facetted.

The blocker mounts the stone in a “dop” on the end of a mechanical arm called a “tang”, and places it on a spinning cast iron wheel called a “scaife”, which has been impregnated with diamond dust and olive oil. The “scaife” rotates at 2 400-3 500 rpm.The diamond powder embedded in it grinds away at the surface of the diamond which is being polished.

This grinding action breaks strong covalent bonds between carbon atoms, releasing energy and, with the frictional energy generated, heats up the diamond to a dull red colour. The table of the stone is first polished and thereafter, eight crown facets and eight pavilion facets, exactly opposite each other, are put on the stone.

There is a considerable loss of diamond weight during the cutting process. A perfect octahedral stone will normally be sawn into two pieces and the resultant polished weight will be approximately 50% of the original stone’s weight. When other shapes and heavily included stones are cut, a much greater loss may be experienced – up to 70%.

AUTOMATIC POLISHING Automated polishing machines are used only for polishing smaller stones.These machines normally process four stones at a time and one man can operate eight of them simultaneously.

BRILLIANTEERING The brillianteerer adds the remaining 40 facets to the stone and afterwards polishes them all.

A computerised machine capable of polishing four diamonds simultaneously.

MECHANISED SAWING, BRUTING AND SHAPING

Polishing a diamond with a tang and a scaife.

Modern machines are available that use state-of-the-art green laser and computer technology to saw, brut and shape a diamond.

Great skill is required in this process. The facets grind away quickly on the spinning wheel and the brillianteerer needs to inspect his work every few seconds, to see that the angle and the size of the facet he is working on are correct. He also has to position the diamond so that the facet is cut and polished perpendicular to the grain (internal structure) of the stone.

ACID WASH The completed stone is then boiled in an acid bath to remove oil and steel marks.

Modern laser polishing machine.

VARIOUS STAGES IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Rough crystal

Sawing

Bruting

Grinding or blocking

Brillianteering

DIAMOND-CUTTING

WHY DO CUTTERS STILL PRODUCE A BADLY CUT STONE? If the cut of a diamond is so important - and its certificate clearly indicates the quality of its cut - why do cutters still cut a diamond to less-than-perfect proportions? The answer is twofold.

Firstly, the cutter has to work with what nature provides. If he works on a misshapen rough crystal, it is often very difficult to produce a proper cut.

Secondly, a diamond is one of nature’s most expensive materials and most of it literally disappears into thin air during the cutting process. A typical round brilliant cut diamond weighs only about 40% of the original rough crystal.

The diamond-cutter has to weigh the advantages of maximum beauty, ie, a perfect cut, against the financial issue of maximum weight. Sometimes preserving a little weight to increase the stone’s price may mean cutting the stone to less-than-perfect proportions. With today’s high price of rough, a little extra weight can mean the difference between a profit and a loss.

Often the cutter has to decide between retaining inclusions inside a stone (thus lowering its value) or removing them, which could lead to a polished stone with imperfect proportions. At other times, he may “swindle” the stone, ie, stretch the proportions, in order to produce a stone whose weight falls into a higher price bracket.

However, as with all fine-quality products - like cars and wine - well-cut stones will cost more than a similar stone with inferior propor tions. The price difference between a well-made stone and one of average cut can be as much as 30%.

A reputable jeweller will educate and inform his client about the difference in cut and why the better-cut stone costs more. It is then up to the client to decide whether the extra sparkle is wor th the higher price. The problem is that few clients can see the difference in the cut and have to rely on the grading cer tificate that accompanies the stone. Independent grading laboratories may describe the quality of the cut as “Excellent”, “Very good”, “Good”, “Fair”, “Poor” or “Unusual”.

Spread cut

“Ideal” cut Rough diamond crystal

Two ideal cuts from crystal

Shallow cut to obtain flawless stone

Deep cut to obtain more weight

“Swindled” stone to obtain more weight

ISSUE 23

DIAMOND GRADING A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO DIAMOND GRADING • Grading principles • Evaluating the cut •

Fancy cut diamonds

•

Fancy coloured diamonds

•

Colour and clarity enhancements

The value of a diamond is mainly determined by its beauty and its rarity. It is generally accepted that the more a diamond “sparkles”, the more beautiful it is. We will see in later sections that the proportions of a diamond determine its sparkle.

The rarity of a diamond is determined by a number of factors, such as its size, colour and the size and number of inclusions it hosts. In order to arrive at a diamond’s value, its relative rarity and beauty need to be determined. We call this the grading process.

Today, most of the larger and better-quality diamonds are accompanied by grading reports that have been issued by independent laboratories. It is up to the jeweller to understand these reports and to be able to determine whether a specific report belongs to a specific diamond.

GRADING PRINCIPLES 1. DESCRIPTION The grading report will state whether the diamond is of a natural or synthetic origin. Most grading laboratories do not grade synthetic diamonds. Those who do, issue a certificate that looks quite different from the certificate they issue for natural diamonds and which states very clearly that the diamond is of synthetic origin. Some synthetic diamonds will have a maker’s mark, such as “GEMESIS”, laser-inscribed on their girdles. Unfortunately, this identification mark can be polished off.

2. CARAT WEIGHT The first and easiest parameter to be determined is the weight of a diamond. This is normally done by using an electronic diamond scale. The unit of measurement is the carat, which is equal to one-fifth of a gram and which is sub-divided by 100 points. A 75-pointer diamond weighs

three-quarters of a carat. Diamond weights are normally rounded off to the nearest point, ie, a weight of 1,696ct would be rounded to 1,70ct and a 1,995ct would be rounded to 2,00ct. A weight of 0,684ct would be stated as 0,68ct.

3. SHAPE AND CUTTING STYLE Among the various shapes into which diamonds are fashioned, the 58-facetted modern round brilliant is the most popular and also, per carat, the most expensive.

A large number of variations of the brilliant and other cutting styles have been developed recently. Most of these variations have been patented under specific brand names, eg “Hearts and Arrows”, “Hearts on Fire”, “Lily” and “Royal” cuts. There are literally 100 or more branded diamond cuts available worldwide. Grading laboratories will normally not use a brand name to describe the shape and cutting style of a diamond.

DIAMOND GRADING

Round brilliant

Marquise

Oval

Pear-shaped

Hear t

Baguette

A colour grading scale developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the one most widely used.

It ranges from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown).

Each letter represents a range of colour that is based on a combination of tone (darkness or lightness) and saturation (intensity of the colour). The combination is called depth of colour, which is an indication of how noticeable a colour is.

Increasing colour grades in diamonds, with two fancy colours on the right.

Emerald

Princess square

A selection of modern diamond-cutting styles

4. MEASUREMENTS (DIMENSIONS) This is normally done by using a millimetre gauge (the Leveridge Gauge is the model best known) or modern digital measuring devices which display readings of up to one-hundredth of a millimetre.

No round diamond is perfectly round and a maximum and minimum diameter needs to be determined. The depth of the stone is impor tant and is always stated last.

For example, 5,57 x 5,59 – 4,41mm.

Why not an A colour? When the GIA developed its grading scale, others in the industry were already using letters such as A, double A or AAA, or terms such as “blue white” or “fine white”. In order to have a truly unique system, the GIA started its colour scale with D (which is very appropriate for a diamond, it can be said!).

• Method of grading Diamonds are colour graded under specific lighting conditions by comparing them with diamonds of known colour, called master stones. The stones are compared with their tables down in a special white display tray under daylight-equivalent fluorescent light. Colour grading is one of the most difficult parts of diamond grading. As no two master sets are alike - and because it is difficult to compare the colour of two diamonds if they are not similar in size and cut - it may happen that two graders have a different opinion on the colour of a stone.

A face-down diamond concentrates colour in the girdle and culet area.

• Fluorescence Using a millimetre gauge to measure dimensions of a set diameter (left) and a loose one (right).

It is important to be able to measure diamond dimensions properly, even when mounted in jewellery, because these dimensions can be used to identify the stone and/or to calculate its weight.

5. COLOUR Diamonds come in many colours. The normal colour range is from colourless to yellow or brown and 95% of all diamonds fall within this range.

Many diamonds glow with a visible colour when exposed to ultraviolet light. This is called fluorescence. About 35% of all diamonds fluoresce in mainly a faint or darker blue colour.

Other possible fluorescent colours include white, yellow and orange. Sunlight contains ultraviolet light and a yellow diamond with strong blue fluorescence may appear less yellow and somewhat “milky” in direct sunlight.

Diamonds showing fluorescence under ultraviolet light.

ISSUE 23

COLOUR GRADING SYSTEMS Traditional terms

Description

GIA EGL

South Africa

Europe

D

finest white

Jager

E

(blue white)

River

colourless

F

fine white Top Wesselton

face-up colourless

G H

white

Wesselton

I

commercial white

Top Crystal

J

top silver Cape

Crystal face-up a faint colour

K L

small stones look colourless face-up, large ones are tinted

silver Cape

Top Cape

N

light Cape

Cape

O-R

Cape

Low Cape

S-Z

dark Cape

M

Fancy colours

is visible mounted stones visibly yellow

CLARITY GRADING SYSTEM Flawless (FL) - no internal or external imperfections can be seen by the trained eye under 10x magnification (used by the GIA) Internally Flawless (IF) - no internal imperfections under 10x magnification (used by EGL and others) Very,Very Slightly Included ( VVS1,VVS2) - very difficult to see with 10x loupe Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2) - difficult to see with 10x loupe Slightly Included (SI1, SI2, SI3) - easy to see with 10x loupe, sometimes visible with the naked eye (the GIA does not use SI-3 grade) Included (I1, I2, I3) - imperfections visible with the naked eye, seriously affecting the stone’s brilliance (In Europe, the term “pique” is used for an included stone and the symbols P-1, P-2, P-3 are used)

very light yellow darker than Z

6. CLARITY The rarity of a diamond also depends on how free it is of internal inclusions and external blemishes. These imperfections are identified under 10x magnification and plotted on the grading report. The diamond is then allocated a clarity grade which is determined by the size, number, type, positions and visibility of these imperfections.

A loupe is the most convenient magnifier to determine clarity, while a gemmological microscope is often used for the grading of high-quality stones.

The table on the right gives the symbols that are used to describe the clarity grade.

Internally Flawless

VVS1

VVS2

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

SI3

I1

I2

I3

Relative size of inclusions for VVS1-I3 clarity grades

• Plotting symbols and abbreviations The grading report will indicate the type and position of imperfections that can be seen under 10x magnification.

These symbols are of great help in identifying a diamond and a jeweller should know how to read a diamond plot.

External characteristics are normally indicated in green, while internal characteristics are plotted in red. Herewith an example of such a plot.

SI-2

I-1

SAJN | RETAILING

Seven keys to retail success According to a new report from McKinsey & Co and the Retail Industry Leaders’ Association, the COVID-19 pandemic has dramatically changed both the retail world and consumer expectations – and retailers must adjust to the new reality. Rob Bates shares the report’s seven “imperatives for rethinking retail”.

“THE TRAJECTORY OF RETAIL EVOLUTION has rapidly accelerated,” said McKinsey Senior Partner Sajal Kohli in a video about the report, “leading to many, many more transformations in a year than we’ve seen in the past few decades in the industry.”

The change has been led by consumers, said Brian Dodge, President of the Retail Industry Leaders’ Association, in the video.

“Consumers have changed,” he said.

“Retailers need to understand that consumers

30

have changed and they have to move quickly.

Perhaps they had plans to get to this point in three or four years’ time, but they’ll need to get there quicker.”

Among the report’s seven “imperatives for rethinking retail” were the following: Master omni-channel Even if you are primarily a bricks-and-mortar operation, the digital component of your business cannot be neglected, the report stated.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

RETAILING | SAJN It noted that e-commerce volume grew as much in the first quarter of 2020 as it did in the prior decade. And consumer surveys say that most will continue to buy online, even postpandemic.

Even when consumers prefer a bricks-andmortar store, the online platform remains “the front door of your store”, in the words of Craig Menear, Chairperson and CEO of the Home Depot. “Customers are taking us down that path – purchasing online and using online platforms as the start of the shopping experience, even if it ends in the physical world,” he said in the report.

The report recommended that retailers invest in real-time analytics, based on current trends (rather than historical performance) and increase their use of digital testing.

Offer personalised service “The pandemic has weakened brand loyalty significantly,” the report stated, noting that 76% of consumers changed stores, brands or channels in 2020. The antidote is personalisation, which includes building better data and insights into customers (while respecting privacy laws).

The report noted that only 15% of marketers said they had fully implemented personalised marketing during the pandemic, even though it has been shown to grow revenue by 10-15%.

“Turbocharge” delivery As e-commerce accelerates, consumers want things to arrive at their door faster. Most consumers (over 90%) expect items to be delivered in two to three days, while 30% expect same-day delivery.

The report noted that more than 75% of specialty retail supply chain leaders surveyed had made twoday delivery a priority, while 42% hoped to offer same-day delivery by 2022.

‘The pandemic has weakened brand loyalty significantly,’ the report stated, noting that 76% of consumers changed stores, brands or channels in 2020. The antidote is personalisation, which includes building better data and insights into customers (while respecting privacy laws).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

Retailers need to take a stand Customers are watching how companies conduct themselves and are not shy about voicing their opinions on that conduct.

The report found that 33% of consumers had stopped using a brand based on its social actions and 71% said they would lose trust in a brand which prioritised “profits over people”.

Hire digitally savvy talent Retailers need to compete for top tech talent and embrace the new, more “fluid” workplace by acknowledging that some retailers prefer to work remotely. Retailers should therefore offer opportunities for part-time or “gig” employees.

Retailers are also increasingly focusing on diversity; for example, Target plans to increase its number of black team members across the company by 20% over the next three years.

Either participate in an “ecosystem” or develop your own Many major retailers now have “marketplaces” that give customers and wholesalers a chance to sell direct to consumers. If retailers cannot develop their own ecosystems, they should get involved in existing ones, such as Facebook or TikTok. Productivity will be key Retailers should focus on making their stores more productive. That means embracing technology by automating supply chains and administrative functions.

In addition, they should look at private brands, which increase “customer loyalty through a differentiated, innovative offering and increase margins”, according to the report, which concluded that after the pandemic, retailers should look at what they “want the brand to stand for”.

“What initiatives will strengthen the retailer’s ability to deliver that brand promise?” the report asked.

31

DID YOU KNOW? | SAJN

Interesting facts 1

In 1893, the French scientist Henri Moissan was inspecting a meteor crater in Arizona when he found what he thought were diamonds. Upon closer inspection, he realised that he had found something completely new that he dubbed “moissanite”.

4

The first Casio G-shock watch was tested by simply throwing it out the window – a 10 m drop, to be specific.

7

Lover’s eyes were a sub-genre of jewellery that became the height of fashion in the Georgian era. Presumably, only the wearer and the portrait subject would know the identity of the beloved being depicted, keeping the experience intimate.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

2

The weight of gold found in Tutankhamun’s tomb amounted to 9 tons. It included masterfully processed jewels, a gold sarcophagus, a death mask, a throne sculptures and other artistically valuable objects.

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According to a Greek legend, the first ring was created by the god Zeus. It was supposed to have been forever worn by the Titan Prometheus as a symbol of his being chained to a rock.

8

Wearing copper jewellery can cause your skin to turn green due to chemical reactions. To prevent it, coat your jewellery with clear nail polish and keep it away from water.

3

There are several hundred types of gemstones out there, but only two are formed in the earth’s mantle. These are diamonds and peridot. Although they are formed deep within the mantle, these gemstones are mined in the crust.

6

The silk strands on a pearl necklace need minding as much as the pearl itself. Submersion of pearl necklaces and bracelets in water is not recommended as water weakens the elasticity of silk, which can cause the strand to stretch and snap.

9

Early watches had to be opened up regularly for winding and maintenance by the watch-wearer. Thus, watch designers paid just as much attention to the design and aesthetic of the watch’s inner workings as they did to its watch’s outer appearance.

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SAJN | THE BIG QUIZ

THE BIG TRADE ISSUE gemstone and jewellery quiz

Test your knowledge with our 50-question gemstone and jewellery quiz. It is all in good fun, so grab a pencil, mark your answers and check them on page 42. Good luck!

1. Which gemstone is the hardest?

A) Emerald B) Sapphire C) Aquamarine D) Amethyst 2. Which one of these stamps would you see on 18ct gold?

A) 925 B) 750 C) 585 4) 375 3. Which stone is considered a “mourning” gem?

A) Jet B) Diamond C) Opal D) Ruby

4. Which of these diamond cuts is a square shape?

A) Marquise B) Brilliant C) Princess D) Baguette 5. What is the highest (most desirable) colour grading for diamonds?

A) A B) D C) 1 D) VVS 6. Which of these diamonds is the largest?

A) 2ct B) 3-point C) 0,90ct D) 70pc

7. What is the name of the ring design that features only one diamond or gemstone?

A) Halo B) Solitaire C) Trilogy D) Eternity ring 8. Which metal used as alloy in white gold causes an allergic reaction in some people?

A) Nickel B) Cadmium C) Magnesium D) Cobalt 9. Which of the following is not a colour of sapphire?

A) Pink B) Orange C) Yellow D) Red 10. What colour is morganite?

A) Light blue B) Pale yellow C) Orange D) Light pink 11. Which of these precious metals is becoming so rare that over 90% of the world’s accessible supply has already been mined?

A) Gold B) Platinum C) Silver D) Tungsten

12. The birthstone for which month is considered a kaleidoscope?

A) April B) June C) September D) October 13. Transparent beryl is what gemstone?

A) White sapphire B) Aquamarine C) Cubic zirconia D) Watermelon tourmaline 14. Tanzanite is an official birthstone for the month of December A) True B) False 15. What colour is hematite?

A) Black B) Dark blue C) Shades of green D) Steel grey 16. Which of the following is not a hue of colour?

A) Red B) Blue C) Black D) Green 17. The gemstones emerald and topaz originated from the same parent rock A) True B) False 18. Which of the minerals listed below is the only one harder than alexandrite?

A) Chrysoberyl B) Corundum C) Beryl D) Lapis lazuli

THE BIG QUIZ | SAJN 19. What is the rarest colour of topaz?

A) White B) Green C) Violet D) Blue 20. Which stone is not a real gemstone?

A) Cat’s eye B) Bat’s eye C) Hawk’s eye D) Tiger’s eye 21. Jade is the most precious gemstone in which country?

A) China B) South Africa C) Brazil D) Zaire 22. If you rub amber with a cloth, you will form static electricity A) True B) False 23. GF Kunz is a famous gemmologist known for which gemstone?

A) Nephrite B) Diamond C) Sunstone D) Kunzite 24. Which gemstone is often called the “bad luck” stone?

A) Diamond B) Opal C) Emerald D) Pearl 25. Which of the following shapes is a cabochon cut?

A) Round B) Domed C) Tapered D) Narrow 26. An opal doublet is an opal that…

A) Has double the colour of a normal opal B) Shows two distinct body hues C) Is two different gemstones glued together D) Is coated with varnish to make it more durable

27. A 0,25ct gemstone is what MM size?

A) 4,1 mm B) 2,4 mm C) 3,2 mm D) 3,5 mm

35. Which is the most valued colour of moonstone?

A) Red B) Pink C) Blue D) Purple

28. Which blue is not a common topaz colour?

A) Sky blue B) London blue C) Swiss blue D) Sea blue 29. What colour is a fire opal?

A) Orange B) White C) Green D) Blue 30. What birthstone is known as the “sailor’s gem”?

A) Sapphire B) Ruby C) Aquamarine D) Pearl 31. Black onyx is not actually onyx A) True B) False 32. Alexandrite was named after a 12-year-old boy in Russia A) True B) False 33. What colour of good-quality jade is the most expensive?

A) Lavender B) Red C) White D) Green

34. What gemstone should never be put in an ultrasonic cleaner?

A) Ruby B) Topaz C) Malachite D) Spinel

36. In which year did Tiffany introduce tanzanite to the market?

A) 1969 B) 1954 C) 1975 D) 1990 37. What gemstone is made by “mantle tissue activation”?

A) Sardonyx B) Chocolate diamond C) Chocolate pearl D) Moissanite diamond 38. On the Mohs scale of hardness, which gemstone is rated a 2,5?

A) Ivory B) Quartz C) Apatite D) Morganite

39. The word “diamond” derives from the word “adamao”, used to describe the hardest substance known to man.

From which ancient language does “adamao” originate?

A) Egyptian B) Basque C) Greek 40. Which word refers to a green gemstone, a type of money plant and a popular girl’s name?

We hope you enjoyed our quiz! Check your answers on page 42.

Image courtesy Ajanta Africa

SAJN | COLOURED GEMSTONES

Setting gemstones for spring

“COLOURED GEMS ARE A LOT OF FUN TO work with and just as much fun to wear,” says Adine. Established in 2006, Ajanta Afrika deals in unconventional diamonds – no white ones.

“We have an absolute passion for colour. And while we do work with the most requested and popular natural stones in the gem world, we love the ‘weird and wonderful’ too,” she says.

With spring here, the demand for bright and cheerful coloured gemstones will undoubtedly increase.

“We find that many of our clients don’t know about special requirements for the setting of certain stones, the application of heat or the use of an ultrasonic cleaner,” says Adine.

“When it comes to using and setting colour stones, knowing about their inclusions and structure is very important. Do not apply heat

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Image courtesy Ajanta Africa

When setting coloured stones, one needs to know about their inclusions as well as their structure.

Adine Lutz of Ajanta Afrika tells SAJN about the special requirements for setting certain stones, the application of heat and the use of an ultrasonic cleaner.

to black or included diamonds and be very careful with pressure on natural lines or inclusions. Do not put emeralds, tanzanites or very soft stones like opals in an ultrasonic cleaner.”

Are certain gemstones easier to work with than others due to their durability and hardness?

“Yes – the harder the stone and the fewer the inclusions, the easier it is to work with,” says Adine. “However, very often, natural inclusions give gemstones their uniqueness and special appearance. I’d say that instead of not using stones for this reason, you should work with the material and, just as a gem-cutter chooses the best possible cut and shape to capture the true magic of the stone, a jeweller should choose the best setting to showcase and protect it.”

What causes diamonds to break or damage?

“Diamonds are the hardest of all stones, but even the purest diamond will show wear and

tear in a setting, so while it’s really durable, it can still be damaged and scratched,” says Adine. “Black diamonds as well as salt and pepper diamonds, are quite porous. They all have very interesting and beautiful inclusions, but you need to be careful in how they’re set in order to protect their corners and exposed parts.”

Which gemstones should be avoided when making an engagement ring or jewellery that will be worn daily? “I think that nowadays, tradition’s fallen away when it comes to alternatives for engagement rings.

“The important thing is disclosure: as long as you explain to your client that certain stones are more vulnerable, no stone should be taboo. Tanzanite and emeralds can be tricky for everyday wear in rings. Ethiopian opals shouldn’t be worn when showering, bathing or swimming. Salt and pepper diamonds are very popular in engagement rings, which is fine, provided the stone is protected in the setting and you inform the client of its vulnerabilities,” says Adine.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

IT’S ABOUT THE SPARKLE

Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa Office: +27 11 268 6980 • Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za • www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

SAJN | ONLINE MARKETING

Finding your retail digital space Jason Laing, CEO and co-founder of ProMake, shares guidelines for building your jewellery business and highlights the importance of a digital presence. Laing, who currently lives in the UK, started his career in the jewellery sector in SA. 38

WHEN YOU ARE OPENing a retail shop, chances are you are planning a grand opening or ribbon-cutting where marketing and advertising to get the word out about your new business will probably be one of your top concerns.

You know you must have an online presence to survive in today’s noisy, competitive business world. No matter how fantastic your service or product is, you will not make any money if people do not know about you. The more channels of exposure you can get, the

bigger the audience you will reach.

So how can you begin building your online presence? Many of you probably think you can simply create a website and you will be all set to start bringing in large orders: everyone will automatically get to know who you are and that is all the work you will need to do in order to become successful, right? In the past, this may have been somewhat true, but with the change in dynamics brought about

by COVID-19 and lockdowns, we are now experiencing a new wave of retail platforms.

Retail has completely flipped its perspective on the online retail approach, which is now:

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

ONLINE MARKETING | SAJN Share your knowledge There are many ways a retailer can appear as an expert or voice of authority in a certain industry.

One way is by contributing to podcasts, or hosting online classes, seminars or workshops in-store or online. Another way is by signing up to teach related continuing education courses at a local college or university. Given the speed with which children are learning new technology, even approaching high schools can prove to be valuable – remember that children have parents and extended family who may need jewellery at some point!

“Do not just sit there waiting for growth, as all you will be watching are cobwebs gathering on your website!” Whether you sell products online or have a one-page website, there are many ways to generate more sales traffic from your online presence. What has come to light now as the main driving force of becoming a successful retainer is what your online exposure is and how to increase it.

Here are some Internet marketing tips for your retail store:

With the change in dynamics brought about by COVID-19 and lockdowns, we are now experiencing a new wave of retail platforms.

Get into the press One of the fastest ways of spreading the word about your store, products or services is by sending a press release online. Media outlets all thrive on press releases every day. The abundance of online news distribution services is now making it easier than ever for retailers to announce new product lines and special events.

You are the expert, so become a content contributor One thing which is really effective is providing expert content for an industry-related article.

People will immediately see you as an authority and spread that content across multiple platforms, giving you wide and long-lasting exposure. This will go even further by providing you credibility in the real world to your potential customers.

Internet retailers have known for years that one popular way of sharing knowledge and gaining extra exposure is by writing content for free distribution. Article marketing, as it is known, can increase awareness of a retailer’s presence, both on- and offline.

Find your place on local listings Google, Yahoo! and other directories, together with search engines, are creating tools for local shoppers to find your business, provide maps of location, hours of operation and even coupons.

Many of these listings are free, with upgrade options for a fee.

Be a director of your own commercials If your store has paid for a print display advertisement in a local newspaper, you may know how ineffective marketing can be without word-of-mouth or a visual advertising

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

campaign. Radio and television marketing may be too pricy for your shop’s budget, but there is another option.

One of the biggest traffic-drivers at the moment is video content. Video marketing online allows a retailer to extend the reach of their message to a larger audience for little investment. Unlike traditional marketing, producing a unique online advertisement or video to convey your message or brand can give your store an extremely high return on investment.

Join social networking Social networking sites like Facebook, MySpace and LinkedIn may or may not work for you in selling your products, but if that is where your customers hang out, maybe you should too. Many social sites host blogging spaces and using blogs on these sites can help retailers keep in touch with shoppers, make announcements or feature new merchandise and promotions.

Attract customers by offering an affiliate programme I have found in my online retail journey that one very popular and effective method of Internet marketing for retailers is the affiliate programme. This is the process in which a retailer pays one or more affiliates for each sale or customer gained as a direct result of the affiliate’s marketing efforts. The retailer generally provides banners, buttons or product feeds for the affiliate’s use.

Most of the retailers I have dealt with manage their own affiliate programmes, while others opt to use a third party to track sales, orders and payments to the affiliate.

The amount of commission or bonus paid out is determined by the retailer. This is normally outlined in an affiliate agreement, so if you take this route, ensure you get a well-documented agreement to safeguard your best interests.

Sales today are best driven by testimonials and word-of-mouth To have your voice heard, nothing speaks louder than genuine testimonials and someone recommending your store or services to a friend or colleague. Once you have received a few testimonials from clients, it is time to build out a section of your site to show your client success. Seventy-two percent of people online trust reviews and testimonials. Now is the best time to start using them in your business and branding as well. It is also worth getting yourself listed on sites such as Trust Pilot, where you can get a five-star rating off the testimonials your clients have listed.

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SAJN | ONLINE MARKETING

Use key influencers It is sad, but true that all too often, businesses focus only on the numbers of likes and shares they receive from their audience. Be proactive: start networking, identifying and engaging with key influencers, as this can make a significant difference in terms of increasing your online exposure. The endorsement of your brand from a popular personality who is relevant to your target audience will bring you a high volume of traffic from the influencer’s followers.

This is the world in which we now live.

Here are more tips to get you the exposure you deserve: • Get to actually talk to your clients on social media.

• Use the voice of the customer for credibility of your products and services.

• Focus on your value proposition – and make it obvious.

• Impress new customers with specialised follow-up e-mails.

• Get noticed by adding an opt-in pop-up offer to drive sales.

• Scale your price points with an implement tiered pricing programme.

• Create and target detailed buyer criteria.

• Pinpoint your best attribute and strategies to create sales conversion.

• Draw customers in by giving away as much as you can free of charge.

• Respond quickly – answer every question and address every concern in your content.

• Keep your message consistent across campaigns.

• Give Gmail advertisements a try.

• Get rid of your landing page and make it a sales door to your shop.

• Ensure you invest in quality product images.

©prima91/123RF.COM

It is all about your value proposition, so make it immediately obvious With all the restrictions and change of retail approach, many panicking retailers have tried to stand out from competitors. By doing so, a large number of them have lost sales and wasted time by focusing on themselves. It is not all about you! Remember that people do not want to buy things – they want to solve their problems. Another painful truth is that unless your customers are brand evangelists, most of them do not care about you or your company – only about how your products or services can improve their lives. Your value proposition should therefore be your main focus and take centre stage in all your marketing communications.

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Give your customers choices and provide as many payment options as possible.

Make the check-out process easy and reduce friction.

Be analytical and target look-alike audiences on Facebook.

Do not over-complicate things: offer fewer choices of items.

Use remarketing to increase your sales exposure.

Whether you sell products online or have a one-page website, there are many ways to generate more sales traffic from your online presence. What has come to light now as the main driving force of becoming a successful retainer is what your online exposure is and how to increase it.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

N°112

SAJN | THE BIG QUIZ ANSWERS

The Big Trade Issue gemstone and jewellery quiz answers 1. B – Sapphire. Sapphire is the secondhardest gemstone after diamond.

2. B – 750. 18ct yellow gold is stamped 750, indicating that it is 75% pure gold. 18ct yellow gold is an alloy mixture of pure gold and usually silver and copper.

3. A – Jet. Jewellery set with jet became a popular symbol of mourning during the reign of Queen Victoria, who wore hers as her only adornment after the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.

4. C – Princess cut. The Princess cut features a straight-sided, rectangular outline with a brilliant style facet arrangement, resulting in a diamond with more sparkle than traditional square or rectangular diamonds. The Princess cut is the most popular “fancy shape” diamond.

5. B – D. The colour-grading scale for diamond jewellery begins with the letter D, representing colourless, and continues with each letter indicating an increase of colour until the letter Z, which indicates colour of light yellow or brown.

6. A – 2ct. “Ct” is the abbreviation for “carat”, so 2ct means two carats. One carat equals 100 points. A 2ct diamond = 200 points.

discovered in Madagascar in 1910, morganite was named by the New York Academy of Sciences to honour legendary financier and gem collector JP Morgan for his generous donations of several major gem collections to institutions such as the American Museum of Natural History.

22. A – True. It will make your hair stand on end.

11. A – Gold. While there is actually no shortage of gold on earth, the problem is that it is much deeper than present-day technology can mine. Current scientific theories estimate that there is enough gold in the earth’s core to cover the surface of our planet with a layer of pure gold about 4 m thick. Unlike many substances, gold is not used up in consumption. All the gold that has ever been mined is still above ground, preserved in the form of bars, coins, jewellery, artifacts and industrial products. The current gold demand, however, is still far in excess of total gold supply and mine production.

25. B – Domed.

12. D – October. The opal has constantly changing colours.

13. B – Aquamarine. Transparent beryl is very water-like.

14. A – True. It was added to the official birthstone list only a few years ago.

23. D – Kunzite. (Almost too easy!)

24. B – Opal. Many people shy away from these stones.

26. C – It is two different gemstones glued together. Doublets are usually a combination of opal and chalcedony, onyx or glass stuck together with black glue.

27. A – 4,1 mm.

28. D – Sea blue is not a topaz colour.

29. A – Orange. Fire opals are very beautiful and have a deep orange sunset hue.

30. C – Aquamarine. The aquamarine is said to give safe passage through rough seas.

31. A – True. Black onyx is actually chalcedony dyed black.

32. A – True. It was named for Tsarevitch Alexander II on his 12th birthday in 1830.

33. D – Green. “Emerald green”, to be exact.

15. D – Steel grey.

34. C – Malachite. Keep this stone away from heat and ammonia.

7. B – Solitaire. A diamond solitaire also refers to any piece of jewellery with a single diamond as a ring mounting, necklace, pin or earring.

16. C – Black. Black is not a hue, but a tone.

17. B – False. Emerald and topaz do not come from the same rock, but emerald and aquamarine do – beryl.

35. C – Blue.

8. A – Nickel.

18. B – Corundum. Corundum is actually the second-hardest natural gemstone, diamond being number one.

37. C – Chocolate pearls are made in a process given this bizarre name.

9. D – Red. Rubies and sapphires are both members of the corundum group, with the same crystallographic and gemmological properties. The only real difference between rubies and sapphires is colour. The red form of the gem is considered to be a ruby, while any other colour of it is considered to be a sapphire.

10. D – Light pink. Morganite is the pink to orange-pink variety of beryl, a mineral that includes emerald and aquamarine. First

19. A – White. Pure topaz is white or colourless and very rare.

36. A – 1969 is when tanzanite was born.

38. A – Ivory, which is soft and can be scratched by a copper penny.

39. Greek.

20. B – Bat’s eye. All the rest are real gemstones.

21. A – China.

40. Jade.

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN

Perpetuating a Russian tradition Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

BY DEFINITION, PURE GOLD IS 24CT, SO ALL other colours are less than that, depending on the metals and proportions. The most common is 18ct, which is 75%, 14ct (58%) and 9ct (38%). These are in a malleable alloy and can be used for many different purposes: while a nickel alloy is hard and strong, and is used for rings and pins, a palladium alloy is soft, pliable and good for white gold gemstone settings.

Popular rose gold is a gold and copper alloy. Together with white gold and yellow gold, it was used in what became known as the traditional Russian wedding ring, or the Russian Trio, more than three centuries ago. This comprises three interlocked bands, each colour having a different meaning. It has endured over the centuries and has even appeared as fashion jewellery.

There are differing accounts of the origins of this beautiful design. The most popular belief is that the ring represents the Father, the Son and the Holy Trinity. Another is that each gold band reflects a different element of marriage – rose gold for the beauty of true love, yellow for fidelity and white, the softest gold, for the flexibility a couple needs in order to compromise and accommodate each other.

Still another belief pertaining to the Russian Trio is that the three bands represent the past, the present and the future. All three of them are given a deeper meaning by the love binding the married couple together.

The triple rolling ring design appealed to Parisian jeweller Cartier as perfect for a wedding or anniversary jewel. This company has an 85-year history of producing it and has adapted the concept to other forms of jewellery, such as pendants and earrings.

Apparently the ring can be resized to fit any finger. The Trinity collection was first created in 1924, with many changes and interpretations.

They have sometimes appeared at auctions.

One version has a ring set with diamonds,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2021

a plain ring with “Cartier” engraved on it and a white gold ring with pavé-set diamonds.

Unaware of the religious interpretation of the original ring, I purchased mine and still wear it constantly.

Perhaps the reason for its present-day success is its appeal as a jewel – which is why I love it.

Traditionally, Russian wedding jewellery is worn with a plain gold ring. Countries follow the Western European custom of wearing it on the left hand, but in Russia, it was historically worn on the third finger of the right hand.

There is an interesting background to the story of Russia’s gold. Many Russian tsars and

counts sent expeditions to prospect for gold on the outskirts of the empire, but – lacking the necessary knowledge and experience – were not very successful. When Peter the Great ascended to the throne in 1682, he began modernising a country which was still backward in many respects, including organising geological explorations. However, it took more than 100 years to capitalise on this innovation.

Using skilled professionals from the most advanced European countries – England, Germany and Holland – was a step forward. In 1737, gold was found in the Ural Mountains by a simple peasant. A gold mine was established there and in due course, further deposits were found, causing more mines to be opened in that region.

Today, five or six of Russia’s hard rock gold reserves are located in the extreme east of the country and Siberia. More than 60% of Russia’s current gold production comes from these regions and the country now has one of the world’s leading mineral industries. Hundreds of alluvial deposits have also been found in the Siberian territories.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

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CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS VALLEY HYPER Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com BEADZ BY FLEX Tel: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 282 3566 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com BERNARDS JEWELLERY DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE Tel: 032 586 0889 E-mail: sales@bernardsjewellery.co.za

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 3252 E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CPM CAPE TOWN Tel: 021 551 2066 E-mail: Sharon@cpmct.co.za; jolandie@capepreciousmetals.co.za CPM - DURBAN Tel: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za CPM - JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011 334 6263 E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY Tel: 079 560 5064 E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

CPM - PORT ELIZABETH Tel: 041 365 1890 E-mail: Renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A Tel: 072 272 3089 E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com; prakashsoni@iafrica.com

BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH Tel: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com; brett@brettlandpoulsen.co.za

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

BRIAN BOSMAN WATCH & GOLDSMITH STUDIO BEDFORDVIEW Tel: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

ANTONICORNELLIUS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel: 073 588 0835 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com; antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

BRIAN BOSMAN WATCH & GOLDSMITH STUDIO ILLOVO Tel: 011 616 5328 E-mail: Brian@bbgoldsmithstudio.co.za; divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

ASHLEY HEATHER JEWELLERY Tel: 082 563 5086 E-mail: info@ashleyheather.co.za

BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel: 021 852 7891 E-mail: info@bronskijewellers.co.za

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 566 5046 E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE - WORKSHOP Tel: 011 438 7920 E-mail: larry@brownsjewellers.com; carel@brownsjewellers.com

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

CAPE DIAMONDS Tel: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za

CRIMSON MOON JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel: 021 422 0947 E-mail: jessica@crimsonmoonjewellers.co.za; Adam@crimsonmoonjewellers.co.za; antonietta@crimsonmoonjewellers.co.za D FABRIK (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 327 7926 E-mail: bradjew@mweb.co.za; deon.denysschen@gmail.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN AND GOLDSMITH Tel: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DC JEWELLERS Tel: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za; santie@dcjewellers.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@gmail.com DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 083 454 2161 E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za DIAMANTE ANTWERP Tel: 072 830 5656 E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com DIDIDESIGN Tel: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za DLR JEWELLERS Tel: 057 101 0359 E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za DR ESME SPICER Tel: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za; songezob@dut.ac.za ECO CHIC JEWELS Tel: 083 987 2069 E-mail: esmarie.ecochic@gmail.com EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: samuel@ejewellery.org.za; didi@ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel: 084 050 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com EMBER MANUFACTURING AND DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za; stephloubser@gmail.com ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com; enzamanagement@gmail.com; info@imarajewellery. com; busi.mbili@gmail.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel: 072 596 9014 E-mail: esdjewellery@gmail.com ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY Tel: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@gmail.com FERROS JEWELLERS Tel: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za; s teven@finegold.co.za FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za FRANKLI WILD Tel: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC Tel: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com GEM AFRIQUE Tel: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 021 914 0838 E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel: 021 931 1319 E-mail: goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488 E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel: 041 581 1942 E-mail: sheyna@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS AND PORCELAIN Tel: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel: 015 307 4448 E-mail: Jacques@ickinger.co.za; info@ickinger.co.za; alta@ickinger.co.za; jansen@ickinger.co.za iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za IMPILO COLLECTION Tel: 010 021 0441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za; info@impilocollection.co.za INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY DESIGNER AND MANUFACTURER Tel: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel: 011 524 6385 E-mail: meiki@isabella-refiners.co.za; isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za; info@isabella-refiners.co.za J HIND JEWELLERS Tel: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindr23@gmail.com JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel: 021 715 6178 E-mail: janine@janinebinneman.com; info@janinebinneman.com JEWEL CRAFT - BRANDHOF Tel: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN 3 JEWELLERY Tel: 076 822 8783 E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JONNERLEE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS CC Tel: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@jenalicollection.co.za; vmagnes@netactive.co.za JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURE & DESIGN Tel: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za; sai@jyarasjewellers.co.za; clarissa@jyarasjewellers.co.za

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

M G IVORY Tel: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA Tel: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com MARINE GOLD CC Tel: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za; hitehorngoldsmith@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za LADY PECULIAR Tel: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christianlamb2@gmail.com; christian@lambodiamonds.com; pkotane@lambodiamonds.com L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 074 973 9308 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.com; leo@leopoldinedesigns.com LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD CENTURION Tel: 012 000 4440 E-mail: charlotte.crosse@metcon.co.za; grant.crosse@metcon.co.za; kyle@metcon.co.za; chris.kollmann@metcon.co.za; liz@metcon.co.za; Hendri.Keulder@metcon.co.za; Diane.Duncan@metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD - CPT Tel: 021 510 0770 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za; tony.winter@metcon.co.za; melynda@metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD - DURBAN Tel: 083 600 2210 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za METAL IMAGE Tel: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com; MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 083 601 8535 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel: 083 450 7486 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za; sunette@novusdesign.co.za NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com; nq@nqjewelleryshop.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD Tel: 021 480 9860 E-mail: gnathan@oroafrica.com; sharin@oroafrica.com; scaledon@oroafrica.com; marketing@oroafrica.com OSMONDS Tel: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net PAUL GALLIAS Tel: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

MINITZA Tel: 082 772 9812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za; marge@mugamuga.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS 1986 CC Tel: 011 486 1602/3 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za; pdj@mweb.co.za

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

PRECISION SETTERS Tel: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com; sales@pneumajewellers.com; mikep@pneumajewellers.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

PREVIDA & CO Tel: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com; consultants@prinsandprins.com; stefan@prinsandprins.com

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

QUICKSET JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za; PraveenB@gold.co.za; TheaP@gold.co.za; JosephM@gold.co.za; amandah@gold.co.za RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za REC SET AND ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; info@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan.bezuidenhout@richlinegroup.com; marco.decarvalho@richlinegroup.com RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za; info@ritco.co.za ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za ROK ORIGINALS Tel: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za RONALD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 031 701 5154 E-mail: ronaldcbr262@gmail.com RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; Tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za; christine@scarabjewellery.co.za SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel: 011 783 8301 E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za; e.efune@mweb.co.za SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel: 011 726 2365 E-mail: info@sirkeljewellery.co.za SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za; janvanrens@icloud.com STUDIO LOUBSER Tel: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 Email: info@suritadutoit.com TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY Tel: 084 3101 988/072 810 4958 E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za; morwa@thatoradebejewellery.co.za THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel: 011 854 9907 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; Muhammad.Bera@absa.africa THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ianvdb@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za; serpro@worldonline.co.za THE MAKERY Tel: 082 600 7142 E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com; jacquie@mwebbiz.co.za

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sarah@tpi.org.za; tanga@tpi.org.za; lungile@tpi.org.za; tumisang@tpi.org.za; anthonio@tpi.org.za; tshegofatjo@tpi.org.za; reitumetse@tpi.org.za; sibongile@tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net; nelisbez@gmail.com TRIMALCHIO Tel: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za; NewmanN@tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011 559 1130 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za; cels@uj.ac.za; thator@uj.ac.za; tarynj@uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; joani@sun.ac.za VALLABHJEE’S JEWELLERY SHOP Tel: 032 944 1657 E-mail: hemval1@yahoo.co.uk VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 021 914 2192 E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel: 031 564 2948 E-mail: info@vijayshahconcepts.com; nihal@vijayshahconcepts.com VK JEWELLERY Tel: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT FINE JEWELLERS Tel: 074 369 4294 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za; david@wainwrightjewel.co.za WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr ZULU MIEN Tel: 082 334 4426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel: 015 293 2306 E-mail: zureltraining1@gmail.com

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