SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • October 2024 by Isikhova Media

OCTOBER 2024

jewellery

WE LOOK AT

BYL DIAMONDS -

Seen at Jewellex Africa 2024 Meeting evolving expectations Creating deal flow at Manufacturing Indaba

Methods of establishing the origin of diamonds

8. NEWS

• Deloitte reports upbeat outlook for holidays

• Rolex to start verifying pre-owned watches in SA

• De Beers prepared for next phase of G7 diamond import requirements

• Lucara recovers another enormous diamond at Karowe in Botswana

• Latest CIBJO Special Report considers challenges of ethical coloured stone supply chains

• GIA cultured pearl reports include traceability information

14. THAT’S A WRAP!

Jewellex Africa 2024 concluded successfully on 9 September, with exhibitors and visitors expressing satisfaction at the business done during the event

16. SEEN AT JEWELLEX

Jewellex Africa was once again bustling with visitors and exhibitors from the trade. The occasion gave industry friends and colleagues the opportunity to connect and reconnect

20. MEETING EVOLVING EXPECTATIONS

In today’s fast-paced world, customer expectations are constantly evolving, influenced by technological advancements and exemplary service standards set by industry leaders, says Liezel Jonkbloed, Consumer Psychology Lab

24. OFFICIAL NOMINATIONS AND WORLD TOUR

The 980-strong GPHG Academy has nominated 90 of the 273 timepieces entered in this year’s competition by 146 brands. Divided into 15 categories, these watches are in the running to win one of the 20 prizes awarded to the year’s finest watchmaking creations

29. A FOCUS ON CREATING DEAL FLOW AT MANUFACTURING INDABA

With just weeks remaining until the Manufacturing Indaba 2024, excitement is building for what promises to be a transformative event for Africa’s manufacturing sector

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct

PLATINUM CASTINGS

PtAu | PtCu R 75.00/g FINISHING SERVICES

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct

Semi-Finishing Fee - R 70.00/g

PtAu | PtCu

Semi-Finishing Fee - R 100.00/g

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct Full Finishing Fee - R

PtAu | PtCu

SETTING

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

Operations Director: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

Advertising Sales:

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 083-450-6052

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Design and layout: Joanne Brook

E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Editor's note

IT’S A WRAP FOR JEWELLEX AFRICA 2024 – and what an exciting event it was! There is no better place to network with people in the local jewellery industry under one roof than at Jewellex and after much anticipation, hundreds of industry stakeholders assembled there last month to have face-toface interactions. Visitors were introduced to the many new ranges, collections and products launched at the show and could watch live demonstrations at some exhibitor stands.

The SAJN team congratulates Lorna, Elsa, Darryn and everyone else involved in arranging the exhibition, which invigorated all of us as we head towards the end of the year. We are already excited about next year’s event. The vibrant atmosphere and dynamic, passionate attendees reminded us of what a wonderful industry this is.

The show featured a number of highlights, which are included in this issue, together with four pages of photos of everyone we encountered there.

With the Manufacturing Indaba taking place from 22-23 October at the Sandton Convention Centre, we also explore the

way Africa’s manufacturing landscape can be transformed. This year’s indaba emphasises deal flow in manufacturing as a central focus, aiming to facilitate meaningful partnerships, investments, trade opportunities and collaborations that drive innovation and growth. We hope to see you there.

We thank everyone who visited the SAJN stand at Jewellex and gave us affirming, encouraging feedback. We appreciate your kind words and suggestions and will continue doing our best to bring you, our valued readers and supporters, the best industry publication possible.

We hope you enjoy this issue!

Adri Viviers

With offices in cape Town and Johannesburg, BYL Diamonds has cemented its reputation as one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery manufacturers and wholesale suppliers. Through associates with mines in SA and state-of-the-art polishing factories abroad, BYL Diamonds has secured access to some of the world’s most impressive loose cut diamonds and gemstones, in a galaxy of shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. In addition to being a leading supplier of loose diamonds and gemstones, it is renowned for the quality of its ever-changing jewellery range, with each piece made using the finest diamonds and gemstones carefully chosen for each individual item. For more information on its range of diamonds, gemstones and jewellery collections, contact BYL Diamonds on tel: (021) 419-2000, e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com or visit: www.byldiamonds.com.

De Beers prepared for next phase of G7 diamond import requirements

With the expansion of G7 import restrictions on Russian diamonds on 1 September, the De Beers Group is fully prepared to meet the requirements that now extend to diamonds of 0,5ct and above.

De Beers’ proprietary Best Practice Principles and Pipeline Integrity standards have long provided assurance on the provenance of its diamonds. With these programmes, the group’s rough diamond customers will be able to continue providing evidence of diamond provenance as the size threshold included in the G7 import restrictions reduces from 1ct to 0,5ct.

De Beers announced that it welcomed the moves the G7 has made to work with the industry and diamond-producing countries, with an extension of the sunrise period, a focus on the end goal of traceability and the implementation of a practical approach for “grandfathered” diamonds purchased before the introduction of restrictions on Russian supply.

De Beers is committed to diamond traceability and its Tracr blockchain platform is expanding at pace, with 2,6 million rough diamonds and 370 000 polished ones now registered.

“De Beers fully supports the work being carried out by the G7 to prohibit the trade in

Latest CIBJO Special Report considers challenges of ethical coloured stone supply chains

With the opening of the 2024 CIBJO Congress in Shanghai, China, scheduled for 2 November this year, the fifth of the pre-congress Special Reports has been released. Prepared by the CIBJO Coloured Stone Commission, headed by Charles Abouchar, the report examined the challenges faced by members of the coloured gemstone sector in ensuring ethical provenance in their supply chains, where materials are most often artisanally mined and handled by multiple traders.

In an industry where a supply chain typically traverses multiple borders, social and environmental laws and regulations are unevenly created and enforced in different countries, with standards tending to be more lax in some of the nations where products are sourced and manufactured, the Coloured Stone Commission President wrote.

“We fully support the idea of working in the direction of progress,” wrote Abouchar,

“but properly verifying the precise source of each coloured gemstones can be complicated and often impossible. Such obstacles are exacerbated because, in the absence of uniform standards, not all buyers and sellers in the supply chain abide by the same rules.”

Noting that certain measures that can be taken to ensure that a coloured gemstone is ethically sourced and traceable, he noted that when working within such a system, one is currently obliged to restrict what and where one buys to goods and dealers who can demonstrably comply with proper standards. “This is limiting and can be discriminatory, particularly in a sector where the overwhelming majority of goods are artisanally mined,” he stated. “It inevitably comes at a cost and makes it more difficult to operate competitively in the market.”

Such challenges do not mean that members of the coloured gemstone sector should

Rolex to start verifying pre-owned watches in SA

Rolex will start offering an authentication service for its pre-owned luxury timepieces in South Africa next year. The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme vouches for the authenticity of second-hand Rolex watches at their time of resale by an Official Retailer displaying the special Rolex Certified PreOwned plaque. It guarantees that these watches benefit from the quality criteria inherent to all Rolex products and from the

full know-how and professionalism of the brand’s worldwide network of experts.

Rolex launched the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (RCPO) programme in a few select markets late in 2022.

The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned seal that comes with a watch symbolises its status as a certified second-hand Rolex watch. This title attests to its authentic-

Russian diamonds and we’re committed to working with the G7, the diamond industry and our partner governments to ensure that an effective system is put in place,” says De Beers Group CEO Al Cook.

Established in 1888, the De Beers Group is a world-leading diamond company with expertise in the exploration, mining, marketing and retailing of the stones. Together with its joint venture partners, it employs more than 20 000 people across the diamond pipeline and is the world’s largest diamond producer by value, with diamond mining operations in South Africa, Botswana, Canada and Namibia.

abandon the mission to create ethical and even traceable supply chains, he wrote, but a realistic attitude is required. “We should appreciate that progress is achieved incrementally and that continuous improvement for the foreseeable future is the better alternative to absolute perfection,” he stated.

He recommended that members of the industry make use of tools developed within CIBJO and which are made available to the industry at large at no cost, including the Responsible Sourcing Blue Book and the accompanying CIBJO Responsible Sourcing Toolkit.

The report also discussed the proliferation of descriptors being used to describe and market gemstones, colour instability in treated sapphires, what happens when new research invalidates older gem lab reports and inconsistencies in the reporting of the origin of gemstones.

ity on the date of purchase and proper functioning and is accompanied by an international two-year guarantee.

The certification has proven to be a game-changer for second-hand Rolex watches in other markets.

South Africa will become the first country in Africa where Rolex has launched its certified pre-owned programme when it starts operating in 2025.

Lucara recovers another enormous diamond at Karowe in Botswana

The Lucara Diamond Corporation has recovered a massive diamond weighing 1 094ct from its Karowe mine in Botswana. This is the second stone over 1 000ct in period of a few weeks and the sixth one weighing more than 1 000ct to be recovered at the mine. The discovery comes only weeks after the finding of a 2 492ct stone there –the second-largest diamond ever recovered.

GIA cultured pearl reports include traceability information

Technology developed by the Hong Kongbased Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory creates opportunities for tracing cultured pearls through the supply chain. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) reports for cultured pearls containing the bead nuclei embedded with radio frequency identification (RFID) tags will now receive a report comment with the unique RFID reference number of the pearl, advancing tracing capability and source transparency.

The Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory recently submitted a batch of bead-cultured akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls to the GIA, each embedded with a unique RFID chip using patented pearl authentication technology. After a decade of development, Fukui is expanding the tracking technology to major pearl producers from French Polynesia, Myanmar, Indonesia, Japan and China.

“As sustainability becomes increasingly important to consumers, this technology can play a vital role in telling the complete story of these gems,” said Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. “The integration of RFID details with GIA Cultured Pearl Reports represents a significant step forward in efforts to enhance traceability and transparency in the pearl industry.”

The Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory technology, Metakaku, embeds a wireless RFID digital tag into the pearl’s nucleus so that its origin and movement along the supply chain

The Canadian miner’s Lucara’s Karowe project is famous for giant stones and the company’s shares surged by more than onethird in August, when the initial mammoth finding was announced. CEO William Lamb said that the latest discovery further validated an expansion of the site’s underground capacity, which will extend the life of the project to at least 2040.

The 1 094ct diamond bears similarities to a smaller gem found last year, which yielded polished diamonds that sold for more than US$13 million, the company said. It will be polished by HB Antwerp.

can easily be tracked. Adding the reference tracking number – detected by an RFID reader during the GIA’s examination of the pearl – to the GIA Cultured Pearl Classification Reports uniquely identifies each pearl, matching it with its quality attributes based on the GIA Seven Pearl Value Factors.

While tracing pearls from farm to market remains challenging, sustainability is an increasingly important topic. When the pearl has been sustainably cultured and successfully traced, it tells an incredible story reflecting the journey of the oyster and mussel from which it was harvested.

“Stories have the power to create meaningful connections with pearls, inspiring us to seek deeper understanding and build stronger bonds with these precious gems. Through Metakaku, we hope to provide value and new perspectives that encourage exploration and inspire greater opportunities for every single pearl that’s harvested,” said David Wong, the innovator of Metakaku.

The GIA, best known for creating the four Cs and the GIA International Diamond Grading System, has been a leader in identifying and classifying natural and cultured pearls since 1949. The institute has contributed to revising the US Federal Trade Commission’s pearl guidelines for the jewellery industry and is responsible for working with major pearl companies globally to develop comprehensive standards for describing pearls. These standards are the GIA Seven Pearl Value Factors: size, shape, colour, nacre, lustre, surface and matching.

Deloitte reports upbeat outlook for holidays

US retail sales will rise by 2,3% to 3,3% year on year this holiday season amid a strong job market and increasing disposable income, Deloitte predicted.

Revenues will total US$1,58 trillion to US$1,9 trillion from November to January, the professional services group projected recently. The overall growth rate will slow compared with last year’s 4,3% increase, reflecting the moderation of inflation, as well as rising credit card debt.

“Although the pace of increase in holiday sales will be slower than last year, we expect that healthy growth in disposable personal income, combined with a steady labour market, will support a solid holiday sales season,” said Deloitte Insights economist Akrur Barua. “Meanwhile, inflation is both a headwind and a tailwind to holiday sales. While declining inflation aids consumers’ purchasing power, it's also expected to negatively impact the nominal rise in the dollar value of sales. In addition, rising credit card debt and the possibility that many

consumers have exhausted their pandemicera savings will likely weigh on sales growth this season compared with the previous one.”

Much of this year’s sales will also be driven by increased online spending, Deloitte noted. E-commerce sales will climb 7-9% year on year to between US$289 billion and US$294 billion.

Meanwhile, MasterCard believes spending for the 1 November to 1-24 December period will rise 3,2% year on year, it said last week. When it comes to jewellery, Millennials and Gen Zs are choosing new popular brands that are less expensive than the more traditional brands purchased in the past, the company noted. While total outlay on the newer labels is set to grow 9%, the average transaction value will fall 4% to US$116, from US$121 a year ago.

“Following a sharp rise in spending post-pandemic, this season’s retail sales are expected to moderately increase in line with trends over the past decade,” said Michael Jeschke, a principal at Deloitte Consulting and

leader for retail and consumer products. “Our forecast indicates that e-commerce sales will remain strong as consumers continue to take advantage of online deals to maximise their spending. While this holiday season reflects a return to trend levels of growth, retailers who focus on building loyalty and trust with consumers could be well-positioned for success.” – Rapaport

That’s a wrap!

Jewellex Africa 2024 concluded successfully on 9 September, with exhibitors and visitors expressing satisfaction at the business done during the event

JUST UNDER 1 000 ATTENDEES GAVE Jewellex Africa another successful Sunday and Monday as they came together at the Wanderers Club, Johannesburg on 8 and 9 September. Organised by the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), the event kept visitors busy with five fully booked halls and a number of informative industry talks. Jewellex was expanded from two halls downstairs last year to include an additional three halls on the first level.

This year’s show saw visitors from seven countries, including the USA, Namibia, Angola, Mozambique, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

“The show surpassed all expectations,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. “There was great energy and the enthusiasm on the show floor

struck a very positive note. Despite the uncertainty in the sector, Jewellex again proved to be the place where the industry gathers to network, learn, discuss, source products, unveil new technologies and strategies and place orders.”

The event kicked off on Sunday morning with its customary and very popular Jewellex Business Breakfast, where attendees had the opportunity to hear Terance Nkosi, Executive Head: SHEQ & Technical Assurance at Rand Refinery, speak about responsible sourcing and why environmental, social and governance (ESG) vigilance matters. Nkosi is a pyrometallurgist with expertise in both the

production of non-ferrous metals and the recovery of precious metals.

The informative talks continued with Richard Pearson, CEO of Osprey Underwriting Managers, discussing the advantages of having local capacity and expertise during a champagne and snacks gathering at 4pm on the Gala Deck.

Deborah Dreyer of Diamdrey hosted a Financial Intelligence Centre (FICA) question-and-answer session on Monday morning. This was followed by Henri Burger of Ethos Jewellery Software’s question-andanswer session on software which is compatible with the Domestic Reverse Charge.

This year’s show presented a large variety of products and services, including high-end diamond and precious stone jewellery, locally produced and SMME jewellery, loose diamonds and gemstones, pearls, ceramics, refining services, technology equipment, analytical instruments, tools, specialised logistics and international show services, local industry publishing, underwriting services, jewellerycleaning products, watches and clocks.

Many exhibitors featured exciting show specials and launched new products and collections. For the first time, OroAfrica showcased its Pure Origin lab-grown diamond collection, which features diamond studs, tennis bracelets, engagement rings and eternity bands. Its Bella Catena range of necklaces and bracelets, a spectacular hit among jewellers this year, was also on display, with new items never seen before.

After a hiatus, Crayve Presentations was back at Jewellex showcasing its latest product offerings. “Our team’s been busy developing some exciting new packaging and labelling solutions that we were very excited to share with Jewellex visitors,” said Clayton Ray.

Bezalel Atelier showcased its two top-

selling collections: gentlemen’s rings crafted from carbon fibre and buffalo horn, as well as the brand’s new range of exquisite and unique inlay materials for its men’s rings. Visitors had the opportunity to closely examine the rings and feel the lightweight comfort of carbon fibre and the smooth warmth of buffalo horn.

Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies showcased cutting-edge technology at its stand.

Addressing concerns about undisclosed labgrown diamonds, it displayed the Smart-Pro® range of precision diamond testers. These tools accurately distinguish between natural

diamonds, lab-grown stones and HPHT CVD alternatives Type I Type IIa, including Forever Moissanite CZ and glass in one device.

“We’re extremely grateful to Rand Refinery for sponsoring the Jewellex Business Breakfast and to our other sponsors, the SA Diamonds and Precious Metals Regulator, for the carrier bags, Brinks for the lanyards, Cape Precious Metals for the registration and Osprey Underwriting Managers for the champagne and snacks event, as well as the branded pens,” says Lloyd.

According to a survey done by the council, besides direct mail shots, most attendees heard about Jewellex through SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Biz-News

Jewellex Africa is the continent’s leading jewellery trade show and boasts a rich history of connecting industry professionals, buyers and jewellery enthusiasts.

There was great energy and the enthusiasm on the show floor struck a very positive note. Despite the uncertainty in the sector, Jewellex again proved to be the place where the industry gathers to network, learn, discuss, source products, unveil new technologies and strategies and place orders.

Seen at Jewellex

Jewellex Africa was once again bustling with visitors and exhibitors from the trade. The occasion gave industry friends and colleagues the opportunity to connect and reconnect.

Meeting evolving expectations

THE PHENOMENON OF EXPERIENCE TRANSFER

being accepted as the new norm, shaped by customer experiences in different industry sectors, is becoming increasingly prominent, and one that businesses need to understand and anticipate to remain competitive.

The evolution of customer expectations

Gone are the days when customers were content with basic service. Today’s consumers demand speed, convenience and personalisation, driven largely by technological advancements and digital transformation. Companies like Amazon have revolutionised the e-commerce landscape, setting new benchmarks for efficiency and customer

satisfaction. This “Amazon effect” has led customers to expect seamless, fast and reliable services across all sectors, not just in online shopping. The impact is being felt in shifting customer expectations regarding convenience, price-competitiveness, product variety and fast (often free) delivery, forcing traditional retailers to adapt or risk obsolescence.

The impact of cross-industry experience standards transfer

The high standards set by leading companies influence customer expectations across various industries. One such local example is Checkers Sixty60, which has redefined grocery shopping in South Africa with its promise of deliveries

within 60 minutes. This rapid service has set a new and incredibly high bar for convenience, prompting customers to expect similar levels of efficiency in other areas of their lives, from food delivery to retail.

Businesses across sectors must now grapple with these heightened consumer expectations. If a customer can order via an app and get groceries delivered in an hour, they begin to expect other services to match this speed and convenience. This cross-industry experience transfer creates a ripple effect, raising the bar – and the competition – for all businesses, compelling them to innovate to keep pace. Now a notification of an expected delivery sometime between 8am and 5pm is no longer cutting it for customers, nor is not being able to track their delivery online and in real time.

The ripple effect on customer experience

One need only look at the current state of play between SA’s top four retailers to understand how this failure to innovate and meet customer expectations is playing out. Customers today have little patience for delays or sub-par service; they will quickly switch to competitors who can offer better experiences. Conversely, companies that rise to the challenge and meet their expectations can foster stronger customer loyalty and gain a competitive edge.

Businesses that have embraced the challenge include those integrating advanced logistics and supply chain solutions,

leveraging real-time data to optimise delivery routes and ensuring quicker service. This proactive approach not only meets customer expectations, but very often exceeds them, creating memorable experiences that drive repeat business and loyalty.

Investment in AI and technology

Meeting and exceeding modern customer expectations necessitates robust investment in AI and technology. Predictive analytics and personalised recommendations can significantly enhance customer experience by providing faster, more accurate responses and anticipating customer needs. These technologies enable businesses to deliver a more personalised and efficient service, aligning with the high standards set by industry leaders, but require them to remain very close to what customers want, need and experience. Predictive analytics can forecast demand and help manage inventory, ensuring that products are always available when customers need them. Such investments are crucial for businesses aiming to stay competitive in an increasingly demanding market.

in annual sales and contributed significantly to the company's overall performance. The business has also built its omnichannel offering for customers, which ultimately results in higher customer lifetime value, as omnichannel shoppers spend 2,5 times more.

Case study: Shoprite and Checkers Sixty60 Checkers Sixty60 exemplifies how adapting to changing consumer expectations can drive business growth and success. Launched in late 2019, Sixty60 promises to deliver groceries within 60 minutes, a feat that has resonated with consumers seeking convenience and speed, especially during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Shoprite’s focus on innovation, personalisation and efficiency has significantly contributed to its growth. According to its 2023 financial results, the group reported a 16,9% increase in total sales, reaching R184,1 billion. This growth was largely driven by the success of Checkers Sixty60, which saw a 150% increase

By staying close to customer needs and swiftly adapting to their expectations, Shoprite has maintained its leadership position in the market. The company continuously learns from customer feedback, enhancing the Sixty60 app to improve user experience and streamline operations. This approach has not only met, but often exceeded customer expectations, fostering loyalty and driving revenue growth.

The future of delivery and customer experience

Retail delivery services are at the forefront of the evolving customer expectations. The push for faster, more efficient and reliable delivery options is reshaping how businesses operate. Companies must leverage advanced logistics, AI and real-time data to streamline their delivery processes and meet these new demands.

As customer expectations continue to evolve, businesses must keep their ears to the ground and remain agile and innovative to keep pace. The influence of service delivery and experience standards being transferred across industries underscores another layer of changing expectations and the need for continuous consideration in own service design.

Voice-of-the-customer programmes are a useful way of measuring consumer satisfaction, but the programmes must move beyond purely driving metrics towards gaining insights. Using such insights and benchmarking beyond the company or same industry performance is the key to gaining and retaining leadership status.

Just ask Checkers Sixty60.

Checkers Sixty60 has redefined grocery shopping in South Africa with its promise of deliveries within 60 minutes. This rapid service has set a new and incredibly high bar for convenience, prompting customers to expect similar levels of efficiency in other areas of their lives, from food delivery to retail.

Official nominations and world tour

The 24th edition of the GPHG will showcase the 90 watches on a world tour before winners are revealed on 13 November 2024 in Geneva, Switzerland

THE 980-STRONG GPHG Academy has nominated 90 of the 273 timepieces entered in this year’s competition by 146 brands.

Divided into 15 categories, these watches are in the running to win one of the 20 prizes awarded to the year’s finest watchmaking creations, including the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix.

The nominated timepieces and then the prize-winners take part in a travelling exhibition, offering a unique panorama of contemporary watchmaking art. Organised in collaboration with local partners, these exhibitions contribute to promoting watchmaking culture around the world and are accompanied by talks, debates, workshops and other public and private events.

The 90 watches shortlisted this year by

(Right): Hermès: Hermès Cut

(Above): Berneron: Mirage Sienna

(Below): Kazuo Maeda: Heures Universelles

(Left): Chopard: L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year of the Dragon

For over 20 years, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has been pursuing its mission of celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art, thanks to the support of its public and private partners, as well as the involvement of industry stakeholders.

the academy were on exhibition in Hong Kong from 28-30 September at Christie’s new headquarters in the heart of the Henderson Building. They will also be on display at the Saigon Opera House in Ho Chi Minh City from 9-11 October, in partnership with The Hour Glass, in New York from 18-21 October at Watches of Switzerland and finally in Geneva from 30 October-17 November at the Musée Rath. The Bucharest University Library will host the prize-winners after the awards ceremony, from 21-23 November, organised by MisterWatch magazine.

The 2024 prize list will be announced on 13 November at the 24th GPHG awards ceremony, to be held at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva and broadcast live on gphg.org and by media partners.

Created in 2020, the academy is composed of several hundred members who are significant stakeholders in the main sectors of the watchmaking industry, divided into colleges and forming a vast worldwide network of ambassadors.

Academy members take part in the various stages of the timepiece selection process, proposing models for the competition in the spring of each year, before shortlisting nominations among the timepieces entered in the competition by the brands and then taking part in the final vote to establish the prize list alongside the jury.

For over 20 years, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) – created in 2001 and overseen since 2011 by a public interest organisation – has been pursuing its mission of celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art, thanks to the support of its public and private partners (notably its main partner, FGP Swiss & Alps), as well as the involvement of industry stakeholders.

(Left): Amida: Take Off Edition

(Above): Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi: LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

(Right): MB&F: HM11 Architect

(Left): Parmigiani Fleurier: Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

(Right): Dior Montres: Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles

(Below): ANDERSEN Genève: Sakura ANDERSEN Genève X BCHH

(Below): Spaceone: Tellurium

(Left): H Moser & Cie: Endeavour Chinese Calendar

(Right): Van Cleef & Arpels: Lady Arpels Brise d'Été

BRANDS PORTFOLIO

1. SA JEWELLERY NEWS (SAJN)

magazine of the Jewellery Council of South Africa

2. JZA – YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SA’s first and only, dedicated consumer-retail magazine

3. SA JEWELLERY NEWS ‘CONNECT’ BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY THE industry’s quick reference and smart go-to guide connecting the South African diamond and jewellery industries.

4. JEWELLERY BIZ NEWS (JBN)

Distributed electronically, JBN features the latest developments in the jewellery and associated sectors – both locally and internationally.

A pproach risk with purpose.

The Gem & Jewel product provides a tailormade sustainable solution for jewellery related businesses that navigate the changing jewellery industry, market conditions and challenges exacerbated by crime and global economic inﬂuences.

Working with the jewellery industry requires a detailed understanding of its unique requirements and with years of experience in developing niche insurance products, Bryte is one of South Africa’s leaders in providing cover for retail, wholesale and manufacturing jewellers, gem cutters and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, tender houses and dealers, goldsmiths, diamond and metal processors and reﬁners.

Just as we know that one size does not ﬁt all, we also appreciate that standard commercial cover is the wrong ﬁt for these customers.

Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division is excited to oﬀer you our Gem & Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

A focus on creating deal flow at Manufacturing Indaba

The 11th edition of the Manufacturing Indaba will have a major emphasis on doing business and growing manufacturing businesses. The annual event, known for its dedication to advancing manufacturing excellence, will take place from 22-23 October 2024 at the Sandton Convention Centre in Sandton, Johannesburg

WITH JUST WEEKS REMAINING UNTIL THE Manufacturing Indaba 2024, excitement is building for what promises to be a transformative event for Africa’s manufacturing sector.

The Manufacturing Indaba is gearing up to showcase a wealth of investment, trade and partnership opportunities with a spotlight on deal flow that promises to reshape the African manufacturing landscape.

Manufacturers, investors, industry leaders and stakeholders from across the continent will convene at the event to explore and harness the potential of the manufacturing sector. This year's edition emphasises “Deal Flow in Manufacturing” as a central focus, aiming to facilitate meaningful partnerships, investments, trade opportunities and collaborations that drive innovation and growth.

The event will host exclusive sessions where investors can connect with promising manufacturing enterprises looking to expand, innovate or secure funding. A dedicated

platform will enable participants to preschedule meetings with potential partners, ensuring valuable face-to-face interactions.

Renowned manufacturing experts and thought leaders will share insights on emerging manufacturing trends, investment strategies and market opportunities while the exhibition area will feature a curated selection of cutting-edge manufacturing technologies, solutions and investment-ready projects.

“The Manufacturing Indaba is a catalyst to facilitate deal flow and this creates a significant opportunity for manufacturing companies to learn, meet new potential clients, engage with one another to find out how to deal with manufacturing challenges and ultimately grow their manufacturing business. In addition, the event further supports the development of intra-African trade, with many African countries being represented. The potential impact of the event will be felt for many more months as manufacturing companies further unpack

the leads and contacts derived from the event, which creates ongoing engagement and business potential,” says Liz Hart, Managing Director of the Manufacturing Indaba.

Manufacturing Indaba 2024 provides a unique platform for exhibitors and delegates alike to engage with the latest trends, opportunities and innovations within the African manufacturing sector. The event is designed to foster collaboration, spark and new ideas as drive business growth through focused discussions, exhibitions and networking opportunities.

Attendees will benefit from expert-led panel discussions and keynote addresses on the latest trends, technological advancements, and strategies for boosting the manufacturing industry in Africa and will have the opportunity to engage with industry leaders, government officials and key decision-makers who are actively shaping the future of manufacturing in Africa.

Monthly educational insert

FEATURE ARTICLE

Gems & Gemology

Fall 2022, Vol 58, No 3

Methods and Challenges of Establishing the Geographic Origin of Diamonds

Evan M. Smith, Karen V. Smit, and Steven B. Shirey

For offline ablation ICP-MS of diamond, larger raster patterns of 500 × 500 μm are typical, extending several hundred micrometers deep into the diamond. In addition to being (partially) destructive, the technique is slow. Whereas ablation and analysis in conventional LA-ICP-MS might extend for 40–180 s, offline ablation for diamond normally requires up to 4 hours (and in some cases up to 20–30 hours). More time is needed to carefully clean the diamond with ultra-pure acids prior to ablation, to prepare the ablated sample into a solution, and ultimately to complete the ICPMS analysis. A high-tech and expensive clean lab is necessary to minimize contamination. All samples are processed in parallel with total procedural blanks so that the combined background (or noise) of trace elements present in all acids and materials involved can be measured. The stringent requirements are such that only two laboratories have done this rigorous level of analysis for gem-quality diamond, first at Durham University and later at the University of Alberta by Pearson and colleagues.

Returning to the more challenging analysis of gem-quality diamond, there is a modified laser ablation technique that can achieve superior results. McNeill et al . (2009) developed a sample preconcentration technique involving “offline” laser ablation (see box C; figure 5B). This technique was developed as an improvement over conventional “online” LA-ICP-MS, specifically to measure trace elements and some radiogenic isotopes in gem-quality diamond (McNeill et al ., 2009; Klein-BenDavid et al ., 2010). Part of the aim in developing this advanced methodology was to investigate whether trace elements can be linked to specific geographic origins (McNeill, 2011).

The offline laser ablation sampling technique permits meaningful quantitative measurement of trace elements in even the purest gem-quality diamonds, although it currently requires a substantial input of time, laboratory infrastructure, and analytical expertise. This method is also moderately destructive, further barring its routine application to faceted gem diamonds. It involves ablating a relatively conspicuous “pit” on the order of 500 μm wide and several hundred micrometers deep. Only a limited number of diamond localities have been studied so far: 11 from Brazilian sublithospheric diamonds (Timmerman et al., 2019a); 10 from Koffiefontein, Letlhakane, and Orapa (Timmerman et al., 2019b); one from Udachnaya; one from Mir; one from Venezuela; 10 from Cullinan (McNeill et al., 2009); 24 from Finsch, Newlands, and Victor (Krebs et al., 2019); and 10 from Akwatia, Ghana, and the De Beers Kimberley Pool, South Africa (Melton et al.,

2012). In small sample sets, statistical analysis of variance and logistic regression suggests significant differences between populations (e.g., McNeill, 2011), but these differences appear less distinct upon analysis of a wider variety of diamonds. Differences may be apparent when considering averaged trace element patterns from different localities, or even diamonds with sulfide versus silicate inclusions from a single locality, but comparing individual diamonds shows considerable overlap from one deposit to the next (Krebs et al., 2019). As discussed by Melton et al. (2012), some of these measurements may be skewed by the intersection of small mineral inclusions during the course of ablation, which may or may not be avoidable depending on the sample. This possibility requires additional care during ablation and later during interpretation. Although the data are limited, a key outcome of this work is the finding that many gem diamonds have trace element patterns comparable to those of fibrous diamonds (Krebs et al., 2019; Timmerman et al., 2019b). In support of such a connection, HDF inclusions similar to those in fibrous diamonds have been reported within non-fibrous gem-quality diamonds (from the Voorspoed and Venetia mines in South Africa, for example) trapped along the twinning planes of macles (Jablon and Navon, 2016). These results allow us to draw on the existing literature on fibrous diamonds in the discussion of trace element use for geographic origin determination.

FIBROUS DIAMONDS BOLSTER OUR INSIGHT INTO TRACE ELEMENTS

There are marked similarities between fibrous diamonds and gem-quality non-fibrous diamonds upon comparing the major element compositions of fluid inclusions and trace element compositions of bulk diamond (Jablon and Navon, 2016; Krebs et al., 2019).

The similarities suggest that the more extensive work on trace elements in fibrous diamonds also offers insight into gemquality diamonds. Fibrous diamond trace element properties cannot be claimed as a proxy for all diamonds, as some diamond varieties are thought to be formed from distinctly different fluids, such as methane-bearing reduced fluids (Smit et al., 2016, 2019) and metallic Fe-Ni-C-S liquids (Smith et al., 2016, 2017). However, the connection between fibrous diamonds and transparent, non-fibrous diamonds formed in the lithospheric mantle applies to many mined gem-quality diamonds derived from the lithospheric mantle.

Fibrous diamonds are fluid-rich diamonds that trap small droplets of the diamond-source fluid as inclusions during growth. They have a dendritic single-crystal growth habit (like a

snowflake) that grows as a set of crystallographically controlled, space-filling branches in three dimensions, typically producing an overall cuboid shape (figure 6). The chemical composition of HDF inclusions in fibrous diamonds has been measured by several methods, with electron probe microanalysis (EPMA) being the most common. HDF compositions can be described in terms of four end members (figure 7). There is a silicic end member rich in Si, K, Al, Fe, and water; a low-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Ca, Fe, K, Mg, and carbonate; a high-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Mg, Ca, Fe, K, and carbonate; and a saline end member rich in Cl, K, Na, water, and carbonate (Navon et al., 1988; Izraeli et al., 2001; Tomlinson et al., 2006; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2007; Weiss et al., 2009). Compositional variability between end members defines a transitional array bridging the silicic and low-Mg carbonatitic end members. The well-populated compositional array between silicic and low-Mg carbon-atitic end members may be explained in terms of nearsolidus melt compositions with varying H2O/CO2 ratios in eclogite host rocks leading up to diamond formation (Elazar et al., 2019). In contrast, the saline and high-Mg end members are more detached in compositional space. Only a few diamonds exhibit transitional compositions between saline and high-Mg carbonatitic end members (Klein-BenDavid et al., 2006) as well as between saline and silicic end members (Tomlinson et al., 2006; Weiss et al., 2009). Trace element measurements by mass spectrometry, with both traditional LA-ICP-MS and offline laser ablation ICP-MS, reveal high degrees of trace element enrichment in the fluids. Trace element patterns define two major groupings: one that is highly irregular, with prominent enrichments or depletions of particular elements, and another that is less irregular (figure 8). Specifically, the more irregular group has depleted compositions of alkali (e.g., K, Rb, Cs) and high field strength elements (e.g., Ta, Nb) and enriched large ion lithophile element concentrations (e.g., Ba, U, Th), while the less irregular group has lower large ion lithophile element concentrations (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2013; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2010; Smith et al., 2012;). The more irregular patterns are thought to relate to fluid interaction with the subcontinental lithospheric mantle, while the less irregular patterns may be a signature of the convecting mantle beneath the lithosphere (Weiss et al., 2013).

is proposed to account for the compositional ranges of carbonatitic and silicic fluids (Weiss et al., 2015). High-Mg carbonatitic fluids may result from near-solidus melting in peridotite, while silicic-to-low-Mg carbonatitic fluids may reflect melting in eclogite (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2011; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2014; Elazar et al., 2019).

Fibrous diamonds therefore provide a key signal of the input of subduction-derived seawater fluids for fibrous diamond growth. These fluids may also lead to metasomatism of the lithospheric mantle (Miller et al., 2014; Weiss et al., 2015).

Fibrous diamonds and their purer gem-quality diamond counterparts therefore reveal two overarching trace element patterns, thought to reflect two major geological processes governing their formation in the mantle. Measurements in both fibrous and gem diamonds show that diamonds from different deposits can have similar patterns. For example, a striking similarity in trace element patterns has been found between suites of fibrous diamonds from two different Canadian deposits: the Wawa area of Ontario and the Ekati mine in the Northwest Territories (Smith et al., 2012). These findings suggest it might not be uncommon to encounter instances where complete

6. Cuboid diamond (5 mm edge length) consisting of a cloudy fibrous diamond coat over a transparent octahedral core. A partial slice has been cut through the middle, revealing the internal structure. The red rectangle outlines the region of the photomicrograph at bottom (field of view 1.5 mm), which shows a portion of the polished slice in transmitted light, with the micro-inclusions appearing as dark pinpoints. The reddish color is iron oxide staining in surface-reaching fractures. Photos by Evan M. Smith.

Figure

Saline–high-Mg carbonatitic fluids

Figure 7. Fields of major element composition for fluids in fibrous diamonds worldwide, which are often plotted in a molar composition ternary plot (atomic proportions). A: Four major fluid end-member compositions have been identified in fibrous diamonds: saline, high-Mg carbonatitic, low-Mg carbonatitic, and silicic. B: The carbonatitic fluid compositions overlap in the ternary diagram but can be separated in a Cl vs. MgO plot. Data compiled from Izraeli et al. (2001); Klein-BenDavid et al. (2004, 2007, 2009); Kopylova et al. (2010); Schrauder and Navon (1994); Shiryaev et al. (2005); Smith et al. (2012); Tomlinson et al. (2006); Weiss et al. (2009); and Zedgeni-zov et al. (2007a).

overlap precludes an origin determination on the basis of trace elements alone. Conversely, diamonds from the same deposit can have dissimilar patterns, which is not surprising given the fact that many deposits contain multiple diamond populations with geologically distinct sources in the mantle.

a set of crystallographically controlled, space-filling branches in three dimensions, typically producing an overall cuboid shape (figure 6). The chemical composition of HDF inclusions in fibrous diamonds has been measured by several methods, with electron probe microanalysis (EPMA) being the most common. HDF compositions can be described in terms of four end members (figure 7). There is a silicic end member rich in Si, K, Al, Fe, and water; a low-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Ca, Fe, K, Mg, and carbonate; a high-Mg carbonatitic end member rich in Mg, Ca, Fe, K, and carbonate; and a saline end member rich in Cl, K, Na, water, and carbonate (Navon et al., 1988; Izraeli et al., 2001; Tomlinson et al., 2006; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2007; Weiss et al., 2009). Compositional variability between end members defines

Laser-Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy. As a comparatively new analytical technique applied to diamond, LIBS might offer an alternative way to capture chemical characteristics. It involves focusing a rapidly pulsed laser (the same kind as used for LA-ICP-MS) onto the sample to form a plasma and analyzing the spectrum of light emitted to reveal the characteristic wavelengths from elemental and molecular emissions (figure 5C; Senesi, 2014; Harmon and Senesi, 2021). The laser spot size is normally tens to hundreds of micrometers in diameter. Typical detection limits for most elements are in the tens of ppm range (Harmon and Senesi, 2021), but modified techniques such as double-pulse LIBS or nanoparticle-enhanced LIBS can potentially increase the signal-to-noise ratio and lower the detection limits (Koral et al., 2018).

LIBS has a wide range of applications and has been used previously to characterize major and trace elements in a variety of gemstones (Rossi et al., 2014), including efforts toward origin determination of ruby and sapphire (Kochelek et al., 2015). For gem-quality diamonds, most element concentrations fall well below LIBS detection limits. Nevertheless, each spectrum captures a complex combination of signals whose peak shapes and positions are affected by many variables.

a transitional array bridging the silicic and low-Mg carbonatitic end members. The well-populated compositional array between silicic and low-Mg carbonatitic end members may be explained in terms of near-solidus melt compositions with varying H2O/CO2 ratios in eclogite host rocks leading up to diamond formation (Elazar et al., 2019). In contrast, the saline and high-Mg end members are more detached in compositional space. Only a few diamonds exhibit transitional compositions between saline and high-Mg carbonatitic end members (Klein-BenDavid et al., 2006) as well as between saline and silicic end members (Tomlinson et al., 2006; Weiss et al., 2009).

Trace element measurements by mass spectrometry, with both traditional LA-ICP-MS and offline laser ablation ICP-MS, reveal high degrees of trace el-

Multivariate statistical analysis can be used to recognize shared or differentiating features among sample suites (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). It is possible to compare entire emission spectra for differences, which can potentially be used to recognize geological and geographical patterns, even if the spectra are not deconvoluted into properties such as trace element concentrations. This is a powerful capability of LIBS spectroscopy. Upon comparing spectra, however, it is crucial to account for the fact that spectra collected in multiple analytical sessions can have significant differences arising from day-to-day changes—for example, in temperature, humidity, laser stability,

M AJOR ELEMENT C OMPOSITION FIELDS

and so on. To ensure data reliability, for LIBS or any other technique, it should be possible to measure a specimen multiple times, independently, and reproduce the same result.

ement enrichment in the fluids. Trace element patterns define two major groupings: one that is highly irregular, with prominent enrichments or depletions of particular elements, and another that is less irregular (figure 8). Specifically, the more irregular group has depleted compositions of alkali (e.g., K, Rb, Cs) and high field strength elements (e.g., Ta, Nb) and enriched large ion lithophile element concentrations (e.g., Ba, U, Th), while the less irregular group has lower large ion lithophile element concentrations (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2013; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2010; Smith et al., 2012;). The more irregular patterns are thought to relate to fluid interaction with the subcontinental lithospheric mantle, while the less irregular patterns may be a signature of the convecting mantle beneath the lithosphere (Weiss et al., 2013).

One pilot study has attempted to use LIBS to distinguish diamonds by their different geographic origins. In this initial study involving multiple suites of 30 natural diamonds each, sourced from 12 different localities, plus two suites of laboratory-grown diamonds, McManus et al. (2020) proposed that it was possible to discriminate between the diamonds from different sources. Variable elemental emissions were observed from H, C, N, Na, Mg, Al, Si, K, Ca, Ti, V, Cr, Fe, Co, Ni, Cu, Sr, Ba, O, Ne, and Ar (the carrier gas). However, these analyses were performed on natural rough surfaces cleaned only with isopropyl alcohol rather than extensive acid leaching (compare with McNeill et al., 2009), which means the LIBS spectra could include surface contamination (that could in itself be origin-specifi c). Even after apparently ablating down through the surface with successive laser pulses, lingering foreign materials on the diamond surface and in shallow surface-reaching fractures could overwhelm the comparatively scant abundance of trace elements actually inside a diamond.

Figure 8. Trace element patterns in diamond define two prominent categories. One is a more irregular pattern with conspicuous enrichments or depletions of particular elements, while the other is less irregular. Trace element measurements from both fibrous diamonds and gem-quality diamonds can be highly variable, but they consistently exhibit characteristics of these two end members or their combinations, regardless of geographic provenance. The horizontal axis shows trace elements of geologic interest, while the vertical axis shows their concentration, normalized to primitive mantle model concentrations of McDonough and Sun (1995). Plotted data show fibrous diamond analyses from Weiss et al. (2013).

Regardless, a signifi cant differentiating factor in the McManus et al. (2020) LIBS data lies with molecular C-C and C-N emissions (from the two most abundant elements in diamond, C and N), not just trace element characteristics. It is not clear what information these C-C and C-N peaks contain. Potentially, the C-C and C-N molecular emissions vary as a function of carbon and nitrogen isotope composition. Isotopic shifts in optical features are orders of magnitude greater for molecular emissions than for atomic emissions (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). The C-C and C-N peaks may also vary with nitrogen concentration and nitrogen aggregation state. However, many measurements of these carbon- and nitrogen-related variables from previous studies using other methods do not show geographic distinctions (e.g., fi gures 3 and 4). Although it is possible that C-C and C-N emissions, perhaps under the infl uence of trace elements or lattice defects, contain rich and complex information, the specifi c constituents with the potential to convey geographic differences remain uncertain. It is also unclear how to ensure data quality without fi rst understanding the meaning of spectral features of interest.

By combining trace elements with strontium isotope analyses, the origin of the saline fluid end member has been linked to the involvement of subducted oceanic crust altered by seawater, because seawater is known to have a very enriched 87Sr/86Sr isotope composition (Weiss et al., 2015). Furthermore, chemical evolution of such a fluid percolating through peridotitic and eclogitic rocks in the lithosphere is proposed to account for the compositional ranges of carbonatitic and silicic fluids (Weiss et al., 2015). High-Mg carbonatitic fluids may result from nearsolidus melting in peridotite, while silicic-to-low-Mg carbonatitic fluids may reflect melting in eclogite (Tomlinson et al., 2009; Weiss et al., 2009, 2011; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2014; Elazar et al., 2019). Fibrous diamonds therefore provide a key signal of the input of subduction-derived seawater fluids for fi-

Alternatively, the observed C-N peaks reported by McManus et al. (2020) could reflect small and variable contributions from

irregular pattern Less irregular pattern

atmospheric nitrogen contaminating the argon gas flowing over the sample surface. This possibility cannot be dismissed, because the study did not include any nitrogen-free diamond samples or standards or measurements of the possible dynamically variable trace nitrogen content of the atmosphere in the ablation chamber. Also, the sensitivity of LIBS to nitrogen in diamond remains unclear. An unrelated study comparing point analyses in different crystallographic sectors of a laboratory-grown diamond found differing C-C and C-N emission intensities that were argued to correlate with different assumed nitrogen concentrations (Lebedev et al., 2020), but again it is difficult to entirely rule out atmospheric influences. Without more details of the analytical routine and data handling, it is difficult to evaluate the results.

As with any spot analysis, LIBS spectra collected from a single point may fail to account for internal heterogeneity. Diamonds often have heterogeneous growth layers in terms of nitrogen concentration, nitrogen isotope composition, and carbon isotope composition that may lead to non-uniform C-C and C-N emissions. The pilot study of McManus et al (2020) does not appear to have explored spatial variations within samples. In addition to heterogeneity within individual diamonds, it is also important to account for the fact that many diamond mines contain multiple populations with distinct properties. Future studies should attempt to capture these variables.

A further challenge with LIBS is that the spectra contain artifacts specific to the instrument used, meaning spectra collected on a given instrument are best compared against others collected with the same equipment (Harmon and Senesi, 2021). Although LIBS offers many appealing aspects as an analytical tool, such as speed and simplicity, its suitability for evaluating and comparing gem-quality diamonds remains to be demonstrated.

PRESERVING GEOGRAPHIC ORIGIN INFORMATION FROM THE TIME OF MINING

As an alternative to inferring origin based on an independent assessment of diamond properties, finding a way to preserve this information from mine to market offers some advantages. If the origin is retained and certified through documentation or other means, it can be stated as a fact rather than as an inference or opinion, and it avoids the potential problem of multiple localities having diamonds with unresolvable, overlapping physical and geochemical characteristics. Perhaps the greatest advantage is that it is a simple and straightforward approach that can be accomplished with existing tools, albeit with logistical challenges.

There are now several industry initiatives for diamond traceability, given increasing attention to corporate governance, environmental impact, and social responsibility. For example, De Beers has developed a traceability initiative called Tracr that uses blockchain, a secure digital record of transactions, to allow a given diamond to be traced from mine to market. Lucara has its own blockchain traceability with Clara Diamond Solutions. Alrosa has developed a laser nanomark (capable of being read at any time) to identify its rough diamonds in a way that survives cutting and polishing. Rio Tinto developed a traceability program to track diamonds from its Argyle mine (now closed) through the supply chain. Ultimately, traceability initiatives should encompass diamonds from both large-scale and artisanal miners. There is arguably a need for independent verification of origin information by third parties not involved in the sale of diamonds. Several such companies offer ways to verify traceability from mines, through the supply chain, including Everledger, using blockchain; diamond technology company Sarine, with Diamond Journey Traceability; and SCS Global Services, through their SCS-007 standard, which involves verifying supply chain documentation as well as collecting chemical information (through a partnered laboratory using LA-ICP-MS). GIA also provides a provenance service called the Diamond Origin Report, which matches the physical and spectral characteristics of a polished stone with that of a previously submitted rough diamond from a disclosed locality. More recently, the Institute launched the GIA Source Verification Service, which verifies origin information using supply chain documents and invoices from vetted manufacturers and provides this information through its online GIA Report Check service.

This level of investment in traceability by multiple stakeholders is a promising step forward. Preserving the geographic origin information is an exciting prospect not only for consumers, but also for diamond geologists. Just like fossils, meteorites, and mineral specimens, diamonds have a greater value to the consumer and to the scientist when they can be tied back to a specific community, geological setting, age, or process.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

Relative to mantle-derived diamond, gem minerals that formed in the crust are more amenable to inferring provenance on the basis of trace element analysis. Crustal minerals tend to incorporate higher concentrations of trace elements as they grow, and there is inherently more geochemical variability in crustal rocks (see the G&G Winter 2019 special issue on origin determination for colored gemstones). For example, trace elements have been widely employed with reasonable success for discriminating the mine of origin for ruby and sapphire

(Saminpanya et al., 2003; Abduriyim and Kitawaki, 2006; Peucat et al., 2007; Pornwilard et al., 2011; Harlow and Bender, 2013; Sutherland et al., 2015). But even under these more favorable circumstances, when two different localities offer similar geological settings there can still be problematic overlap in trace element characteristics, such as for deposits of marbletype ruby and metamorphic blue sapphire (Krebs et al., 2020). The recognized and resolvable varieties of natural diamond based on all measurable properties correspond to geological variables such as host rock type, the pressure and temperature conditions of crystal growth, and the composition of diamondforming fluids. Generally these resolvable varieties, such as gem-quality lithospheric peridotitic or eclogitic diamonds, are not restricted to a single geographic origin. Instead, they occur across multiple deposits on a global scale, and multiple varieties can be observed within a single deposit.

Diamonds from different deposits can have indistinguishable trace element characteristics, and diamonds from the same deposit can have marked dissimilarities. The underlying patterns that have been recognized within trace element data are associated with geological processes, irrespective of geographic origin. If there are features unique to individual deposits, they must be subtle features, masked by the more pronounced overarching geological variations that are responsible for characteristics such as inclusion mineralogy or the appearance of enriched versus non-enriched trace element patterns. Observations to date suggest that trace element analysis may not be a definitive approach for inferring diamond origin. Although current techniques to quantitatively analyze trace elements in diamond are time-consuming, expensive, and somewhat destructive to the sample, these are not the principal hindrances. Even well-controlled, quantitative measurements made using offline laser ablation techniques do not appear to show distinct signatures associated with different mines. In other words, future improvements to methods for measuring

trace elements are not necessarily expected to resolve this issue—and even if they could, it might not translate into a feasible routine service for faceted gem-quality diamonds. Importantly, any methodology must be capable of scaling up from preliminary studies involving hundreds of diamonds to high-quality datasets involving hundreds of millions of diamonds in order to be viable for commercial origin determination.

Given the interest and importance of this issue, it may be worth further exploring a combination of techniques using large sample suites. GIA continues to actively investigate this challenge to see whether some level of origin determination is possible, even if the odds of success appear to be low. For now, however, all reliable and rigorous services to establish the geographic origin of a diamond depend on retaining country-oforigin and/or mine-of-origin information from mine to market, rather than attempting determination through independent geochemical analysis.

In short, the absence of a feasible method to accurately determine diamond origin is due to a combination of geological and analytical limitations:

1. Diamonds from different mines often form by comparable geological processes in the mantle and have overlapping physical and chemical characteristics.

2. Trace element data collected to date, though necessarily limited, show no clear evidence of distinct geographic signatures.

3. Even if the initial results were encouraging, the only proven method for quantitative trace element analysis of gemquality diamond is prohibitively slow, expensive, high-tech, and destructive. These limitations preclude a large globalscale investigation into origin discrimination.

References:

https://www.gia.edu/doc/fall-2022-geographic-origin-diamonds.pdf

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Dr. Smith is a research scientist specializing in diamond geology at GIA in New York. Dr. Smit is a senior lecturer in diamond geology and isotope geochemistry at the University of the Witwatersrand, South Africa. Dr. Shirey is a senior staff scientist in geology/isotope geochemistry at the Earth & Planets Laboratory at the Carnegie Institution for Science in Washington, DC.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The authors wish to thank D. Graham Pearson, Ingrid Chinn, and an anonymous reviewer for their constructive comments, as well as Mandy Krebs, Michael C. Jollands, Barbara Dutrow, John Valley, Jeffrey Post, James Shigley, Catherine McManus, and R. John Watling for their valuable feedback and suggestions that helped to improve this manuscript.

Since 1930 GIA’s quarterly journal, Gems & Gemology, publishes the latest peer-reviewed research on diamonds and coloured stones – where they are found, their special characteristics, simulants and synthetics, treatments and identification techniques.

Each issue includes feature articles, in-depth research about gem inclusions, book reviews and the latest news from the GIA Laboratory and around the world.

GIA pursues a wide range of scientific investigations to gather and analyse data on gemstones, identifying practical solutions to gemmological challenges and communicating their findings.

Gems & Gemology is a free service and is only available in English.

Current and past issues of Gems & Gemology are available for purchase through the GIA store

Interesting facts

 In the late 1700s, aluminium was more expensive than gold or silver, due to the difficulty in refining the metal. It is said that Napoleon had aluminium cutlery at his dinner tables, as the ultimate sign of wealth and power.

 One of the “rubies” in the Russian crown jewels, the “Caesar’s Ruby” pendant, is actually red (rubellite) tourmaline.

The earliest known necklaces hail from the Stone Age; they were crafted entirely from natural materials such as vine or animal sinew.

 In the Mikimoto Museum on Pearl Island, where the first-ever cultured pearl was found, is the original Mikimoto singlestrand pearl necklace. Known as Taisho-ren or the “Boss’s Necklace”, it is made up of 49 large, supremely lustrous, perfectly matched pearls, the centre one being 14 mm in diameter. All were hand-chosen by Mikimoto himself over a period of 10 years and it remains the template for all classic Mikimoto pearl strands.

 Lucara Diamond mine is called “Karowe”, which means “precious stone” in the local language. The mine was completed in 2012 on schedule and within a budget of US$120 million.

The famous Rolex Crown Logo, also known as The Rolex Coronet, is one of the most recognisable iconic logos in the world. Despite the fact that Hans Wilsdorf launched the Rolex brand in 1906, it took him two decades to personify it with the Rolex crown logo that incorporates the five-point art-deco

Shibuichi is a historic Japanese copper alloy which is patinated into a variety of colours, including understated greys and muted shades of blues, browns and greens. The name “Shibuichi” itself actually translates to “onefourth” in Japanese, which is the standard formula of one part silver to three parts copper.

 Women of the Padaung tribe in Myanmar are renowned for their particularly long necks. This is due to their wearing many golden neckrings. The jewellery is worn as a means of cultural identity and girls as young as five years old receive their first neckring. During this process, Padaung women’s necks can grow up to 38,1cm long.

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550

E-mail: adele@amj.co.za

ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 083 460 7334

E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za

AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION

Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643

E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com

Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/

AFROGEM

Tel no: 021 424 0848

E-mail: info@afrogem.co.za

AKAPO JEWELS

Tel no: 011 038 3130

E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za

ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING

Tel no: 044 873 0567

E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net

Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/

ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 079 744 0971

E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com

ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 073 92 45254

E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za

ALTIN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 998 0141

E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za

AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS

Tel: 072 928 0385

E-mail: info@schermans.co.za

AMBIGO JEWELLERS

Tel: 062 282 6924

E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com

ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 934 5682

E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za

ANASTASIA JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 507 5561

E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com

Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za

ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 706 6828

E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com

Website: www.andreassalver.com

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 061 080 6481

Email: anna@annarosholt.com

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID

Tel no: 082 956 7747

E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE

Tel no: 074 758 1014

E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS

Tel: 031 566 5046

E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 706 3629

E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 7607/8

E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za

Website: www.autraders.co.za

AUGENTA JEWELLERS

Tel: 021 883 8288

E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

AURUM DESIGN

Tel no: 021 423 6590

E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za

AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 475 7891

E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za

AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN

Tel no: 084 247 0358

E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS -

RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERSVALLEY HYPER

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

BEADZ BY FLEX

Tel no: 083 967 3264

E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 885 8303

E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 658 0166

E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 056 2156

E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE

Tel no: 032 586 0889

E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 450 4320

E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international

Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 560 5064

E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A

Tel: 072 272 3089

E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 031 562 8009

E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com

Website: www.brettlands.co.za

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO

Tel no: 011 616 5328

E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

BRONSKI JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 852 7891

E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP

Tel no: 011 438 7920

E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com

Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 202 5021

E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com

CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 781 0303

E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CAPE DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 421 5364

E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za

Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za

Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN

Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS PE/GQEBERHA

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za

Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net

Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za

Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS

T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za

Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za

Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za

Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SEZ

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: salesct@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

Brand supporters

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today. GIA.edu

ANNA-B JEWELLERY www.annab.co.za orders@annab.co.za 071-843-2452

ADT170027_SAJN_Ad_Foremost_v1.indd 1

AFRASIAN DIAMONDS www.afrasiandiamonds.com info@afrasiandiamonds.com (011) 268-6980

BRYTE INSURANCE COMPANY LIMITED www.brytesa.com natasha.maroun@brytesa.com robyn.lambert@brytesa.com (011) 370-9111

BYL DIAMONDS www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS www.capepreciousmetals.com orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za (021) 551-2066 (Cape Town) (011) 334 6263 (Germiston) (031) 303-5402 (Cape Town) (041) 365-1890 (PE/Gqeberha)

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA) www.gia.edu gia ed/contact us +1-760-603-4000 – global hq

JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA) Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za lornal@jewellery.org.za (011) 484-5528

JEWELLEX AFRICA jewellex@jewellery.org.za (011) 484-5528 (021) 424-7764

METAL CONCENTRATORS www.metcon.co.za info@metcon.co.za (012) 000-4440

3/3/17 11:39 AM

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za info@piccolo-jewellery.co.za 083-396-6178

JZA –YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE jza@isikhova.co.za (011) 883-4627

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za (012) 035 0260

SM WATCH www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com (012) 326-5996