SA Jewellery News (SAJN) October 2017

R36,00 (incl VAT)

The industry's only trade journal

Jewellery News OCTOBER 2017

SA

Jewellex Africa 2017 Buyer’s Guide Vintage jewels: a reflection of history Industry forum held at Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair

INVESTOR OPPORTUNITIES AT THE OR TAMBO INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ZONE The OR Tambo Industrial Development Zone, a special purpose vehicle established to develop and operate the IDZ at OR Tambo international Airport, is looking to partner with investors on an exciting new venture, taking place at Ekurhuleni in the Gauteng East Rand.

Capitalizing on the airport’s strategic location, a high value low mass zone that stimulates economic activity, contribute foreign direct investment and job creation is being pursued.

OR Tambo, being the largest and busiest airport in the African continent, is an ideal site for such an ambitious initiative.

In late 2015, we began construction on the first phase of the Zone. The Zone, which is targeted for operations in 2018, will house agro-processing and mineral beneficiation companies manufacturing for export purposes.

Investor support services, provided through a One Stop Shop Platform will be located at the Zone. The OSS is a DTI initiative, which aims to facilitate easy permit and licence application, as well as approval processes for investors. In a nutshell, it aims to provide efficient and effective investor care service. The services will include: • Ensuring smooth licence and permit applications.

• Assisting investors access applicable incentives.

• Acting as a single point of reference for government processes.

Gauteng IDZ is presently conducting its investor attraction process, engaging with local, regional and global market players in the jewellery manufacturing, luxury goods as well as light manufacturing sectors. We want to ensure that the zone attracts high value tenants with a regional and international footprint. Among other things, we consider the following credentials when selecting tenants: • Your experience in manufacturing products for air freight transportation.

• Your local and global footprint, and • Your access to global markets.

The Gauteng IDZ - a subsidiary of the Gauteng Growth and Development Agency, envisages that this world class, globally competitive manufacturing space within the designated IDZ will be operational by 2018. Potential investors are encouraged to contact the Gauteng IDZ to be part of this exciting opportunity. You will have access to packaged incentives and reduced costs if your company/s manufacture for the export market.

TEL: 010 001 9120 • EMAIL: INFO@GIDZ.CO.ZA • WEBSITE: WWW.GIDZ.CO.ZA

ADVERTORIAL

Afro-Italians Set to Sparkle AT ITALIAN EXHIBITION South Africa’s jewellery industry will be set ablaze owing to the talents of two enterprising Afro-Italians, Rofhiwa Molaudzi and Themba Mantshiyo, who recently returned from a two-year jewellery design programme at the IL Tari Academy in Italy on 29 July 2017.

THE TWO LEARNERS, WHO STUDIED Goldsmith and Stone Setting at the University of Johannesburg, were part of a group of twenty-five young aspiring jewellery makers who departed for Italy on 22 September 2015 to take part in the Goldsmith Art, Jewellery Design and Watchmaker programmes. This life-changing opportunity was the initiative of the Mining Qualifications Authority (MQA) and the National Skills Fund (NSF), and was mainly established to advance the skills of young talented South African jewellery makers.

Mineral beneficiation has become one of the major drivers in advancing the empowerment of historically disadvantaged communities in South Africa, and can be instrumental in developing new entrepreneurs in South Africa’s diverse mining industry.

During their two-year long stay in Italy, the learners quickly adapted to the culture and felt at home in one of Europe’s most popular countries. They were treated to a first-hand experience of how some of the best designers in Italy and Switzerland created their work, and learned crucial skills such as goldsmith art, and jewellery design which comprised stone setting and computer aideddesign (CAD).

This excellent opportunity to produce designs from concept to completion is

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

the reason Rofhiwa and Themba’s designs were selected to be showcased at the “Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest”, taking place in September 2017. Their winning designs were selected amongst twenty-two other designs which interpreted the contest’s theme of “Jewel with a Function”, which challenged designers to produce functional jewellery pieces aimed at improving people’s lives.

For her piece, Rofhiwa designed a bracelet to relieve or cure a headache. The bracelet, named “Head Ease”, would act as a substitute for painkillers and would rely on acu-pressure points to help relieve tension. Themba designed a brooch he calls “The Last Cigarette”, which determines the number of cigarettes consumed by an individual, in the hopes of reducing the number smoked in a day.

These jewellery pieces have put the two Afro-Italians on the forefront of South Africa’s jewellery design and manufacturing sector.

Asked about their future plans Rofhiwa said, “I plan to open a design house which will incorporate jewellery, graphic and interior designing”. Themba added, “I do not have any concrete plans at the moment. However, I want the mineral industry to know that we are here, and I would also like to emphasise the need for support from the mineral industry.”

The two talented Afro-Italians are well on their way to success.

Rofhiwa and Themba will be showcasing their designs at the “Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest – Jewel with a Function” exhibition from 23 to 27 September 2017 in Vicenza, Italy.

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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 6. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

• De Beers hikes marketing budget to US$140 million

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• Industry forum held at Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair • Tudor announces Lady Gaga as new brand and campaign ambassador

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• Methods of responsible sourcing from small-case miners of coloured stones discussed

Designer: Joanne Brook

• Nearly 21 000 buyers attend Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TE

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

22. RETAIL CORNER Love your industry

25. BRAND MANAGEMENT

13. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2017 BUYER’S GUIDE

• New boutique for London • Breitling’s Superocean Héritage II 46

A comprehensive guide listing all Jewellex Africa 2017 exhibitors, as well as the latest floor plan

• Eberhard & Co celebrates 130th anniversary

Printing: Typo

28. LITTLE GEMS

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

Vintage jewels: a reflection of history

18. INTERNATIONAL FAIR Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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20. BRAND HISTORY A story dotted with significant milestones

R36,00 (incl VAT)

The industry's only trade journal

Jewellery News OCTOBER 2017

SA

Jewellex Africa 2017 Buyer’s Guide Vintage jewels: a reflection of history Industry forum held at Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair

On the cover The Richline brand’s mission is to create, market and distribute proprietary, visual, emotional, fashionable and cultural products in collaboration with key retail partners to stimulate mutual growth. Contact Richline South Africa on tel: (011) 418-1600.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

NEWS

DE BEERS HIKES MARKETING BUDGET TO US$140 MILLION De Beers will invest more than US$140 million into marketing this year, its biggest spend since 2008, the company says.

The increased investment will be focused on raising consumer demand for diamond jewellery in leading markets, notably the USA, China and India.

Most of the money will support De Beers’ own brands, Forevermark and De Beers Dia-

mond Jewellers. However, it will also increase its contributions to the Diamond Producers’ Association and India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.

“Total consumer expenditure on diamond jewellery for the last five years collectively has been the highest on record — and the outlook’s positive,” says Stephen Lussier, De Beers’ Executive Vice-President of Marketing

and CEO of Forevermark. “However, we can’t take future growth for granted. Increasing our spend from a strong position will help support continued demand in both mature and developing markets, particularly among millennials, who are already the largest group of diamond consumers, despite this generation not yet having reached its maximum earning potential.” – Rapaport

NEARLY 21 000 BUYERS ATTEND HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR AND SALON DE TE The 36th edition of the Honk Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair ended its five-day run on 9 September at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Jointly organised by the HKTDC, the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers’ Association Ltd and the Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd, the fair welcomed nearly 21 000 buyers from 92 countries and regions, up 4% over the previous year.

Buyer attendance from the Chinese mainland and elsewhere in Asia such as Indonesia, Korea, Singapore and Vietnam, as well as other regions including Canada, France, Iran, Russia and the UK, saw satisfactory growth.

“Hong Kong exports a wide range of watches and related products, including analogue watches, electronic watches, jewellery watches and sports watches, as well as parts and components,” said HKTDC Deputy Executive Direc-

tor Benjamin Chau. “Many Hong Kong watch and clock companies have started developing ODM and OBM businesses. Amid the prevalent trend towards smart products, smartwatches are also becoming more popular. To help the industry harness new business opportunities, the HKTDC set up the OEM Smartwatches and Wearable Tech zones at the fair to showcase branded smartwatches, complete watches and parts, as well as technology solutions.”

Munirah Desai | (011) 413-2469 | (074) 567-4545 diamondsafrica@webmail.co.za | Krugersdorp, Mogale City, 1750

NEWS

RESPONSIBLE SOURCING OF COLOURED STONES FROM SMALL-CASE MINERS With support growing for an international system that will monitor the responsible sourcing of coloured gemstones, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri has discussed possible alternatives that will also meet the requirements of smaller-scale miners. He did so during a visit to Colombia, in talks with representatives of the country’s government and industry.

Cavalieri was visiting Colombia at the invitation of Jorge Martín, President of Expojoyas Colombia, the organiser of the country’s leading jewellery and gemstone trade fair, and the Chamber of Commerce of Bogotá.

“What was apparent, both from the thoughts expressed by officials from the Ministry of Mines & Energy of Colombia, as well as representa-

tives of the local mining, coloured gemstones and jewellery trades, is that there’s a readiness to consider a structured system that will help monitor the chain of supply, on condition that it doesn’t compromise the basic interests of individuals and communities who’re dependent on the revenues and jobs provided by smallscale mining,” says Cavalieri.

“The task of developing a viable international system that can monitor the coloured gemstone industry, where upwards of 80% of rough output is produced by small-scale and artisanal miners, will be made considerably easier if we can do so with the co-operation of government, community and business leaders in the producing countries,” Cavalieri continues.

“After visiting Colombia, I’m more convinced than ever that this is possible, but it will require maintaining a spirit of goodwill. Attempts to push through solutions without consulting the people on the ground, who ultimately will be those most affected, will almost certainly be counter-productive.”

During his four-day trip to Colombia, Cavalieri visited the Porvenir emerald mine, near the town of Chivor, which is 160 km from Bogotá in the state of Boyaca. There he met with the small-scale mine’s owner, the Mayor of Chivor and local business leaders, who stressed the importance of the gemstone mining sector to the life and well-being of local inhabitants.

“It was an enlightening experience,” says Cavalieri. “These are people who have a vested interest in the integrity of their business and also in continuing economic opportunities in their community.

Increasingly, they realise that the two are interlinked.”

During his discussions in Colombia, Cavalieri stressed CIBJO’s support towards attaining a viable and sustainable system for monitoring responsible sourcing in the coloured gemstone sector. He said that possible solutions will be discussed at the 2017 CIBJO Congress, scheduled to take place in Bangkok, Thailand, from 5-7 November.

INDUSTRY FORUM HELD AT HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Leaders of the watch and watchmaking industry came together to discuss the latest trends, challenges and opportunities they face at the Hong Kong International Watch Forum last week at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

The forum’s first session, “Market Updates and Industry Trends”, was followed by a second gathering, with the theme “Challenges and Opportunities in Watch Manufacturing”.

Speakers offering a European market viewpoint included Patrice Besnard, Director-General of France’s Chambre Française L’Horlogerie, Dr Jean-Daniel Pasche, President of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH and Dr Guido Grohmann, CEO of the Federation of German Jewellery, Watches, Clocks, Silverware & Related Industries. Representing Asia’s perspective was Dae-Boong Kim, Executive Director of the Korea Watch & Clock Industry Co-operative, Ichiro Kubo, General Manager of the Japan Clock & Watch Association and China Horologe Association Deputy Director-General Hongguang Zhang.

New smartwatch technology was a major focus, according to Kim. “Multi-function features connected to smartphones via Wi-Fi or Bluetooth are constantly developing to provide news and investment updates, do fitness tracking, record distances and GPS locations,” he stated.

Representing the Swiss industry, Pasche explored why Hong Kong still accounts for approximately half of all Swiss watch exports. At a separate seminar, attempts to strengthen the Swiss brand were also discussed, as well as the fact that a 10% slump in worldwide sales last year has prompted new regulations to restrict “Swiss-Made” labelling.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

NEWS

TUDOR ANNOUNCES LADY GAGA AS NEW BRAND AND CAMPAIGN AMBASSADOR Outrageously daring pop icon Lady Gaga has joined the Tudor family. “Notorious for being provocative both on and off stage and leading a foundation committed to empower youth, she personifies the very #BornToDare spirit Tudor lives by since its creation,” says the watch brand.

In 2017, Tudor launched a new campaign with the “Born to Dare” signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. “Daring individuals have long chosen Tudor while achieving the extraordinary on land, ice, in the air and underwater,” states the brand. “It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor, who manufactured Tudor watches to withstand the most extreme conditions and most daring lifestyles.”

“Born to Dare” tells of the singular

(Above): During the Jewellery Council of South Africa’s recent board meeting Chris van Rensburg was unanimously re-elected to serve as Chairperson for another term, while Nthabìseng Xaba was elected to serve as Vice-Chairperson.

approach for which Tudor is known, having pioneered major trends within the watchmaking industry, including fabric straps and vintage-inspired models. The Tudor “Born to Dare” spirit is expressed in a campaign manifesto and supported globally by ambassadors whose life achievements directly result from a daring approach to life.

Tudor is a Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with sophisticated style. The origins of the Tudor brand date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was first registered on behalf of Wilsdorf. He created the Montres Tudor SA Co in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more accessible price point. Today the Tudor collection includes flagship models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, Glamour and Style. Since 2015, Tudor has offered mechanical manufacture calibres.

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

RETAILERS Foot traffic

75 % DOWN 4,5%

75 %

47,5% UP

DOWN 20%

25 %

25

Watch sales

40 %

20

% SAME

DOWN 18%

% SAME

fine jewellery

bridal

32%

0

% SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

UP

0 %

MANUFACTURERS

82%

30% UP

40 %

6% UP

25 % Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

100 % 0

DOWN 16,5%

96% UP

25 %

0

75 %

50

% SAME

UP

0 %

20%

0 %

Best-selling diamond size

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

General sales compared with last year this time

0

% SAME

% SAME

0,5ct

25 % DOWN 30%

DOWN 9%

watches

UP

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

% SAME

DIAMOND DEALERS WHOLESALERS

AUG 2017 VS AUG 2016

100 %

General sales DOWN compared with 10% last year this time

100

% SAME

0 % DOWN

UP

0 %

(Above): The above illustrates year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents.

– All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

JHB OFFICE: 3rd Floor West Tower, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, JHB TEL: +27 (0)11 484 7205 | EMAIL: george@proteadiamonds.co.za CAPE TOWN, GARDEN ROUTE & DURBAN OFFICE: 170 Buitengracht Street, Cape Town TEL: +27 (0)21 424 2002 | EMAIL: orders@proteadiamonds.co.za

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2017 BUYERS’ GUIDE LISTINGS CLOCKS & WATCHES CJR GIFT SALES Contact: Rowan Jacobson Website: www.cjr.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 257 6000 E-mail: rowan@cjr.co.za

DIGITAL WAX CC Contact: Eve Scholtz Website: www.digitalwax.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 72 437 0488 E-mail: admin@digitalwax.co.za DIAMONDS

SM WATCH WHOLESALE Contact: Shabir Moosa Website: www.smwatch.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 326 8348 E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com

AFRASIAN DIAMONDS Contact: Moahammed Altamash Website: www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 82 707 8676 E-mail: towban@afrasiandiamonds.co.za

TIMEBRANDITS WORD CLOCKS Contact: Charmaine Brough Website: www.timebrandits.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 82 492 0226 E-mail: charmaine@timebrandits.co.za

BASIKWA TRADING (PTY) LTD Contact: Moses Mokaila Website: www.basikwa.com Tel: +27 (0) 82 884 6216 E-mail: moses@basikwa.com

COLOURED GEMSTONES BLUE STAR GEMS HONG KONG Contact: Chetan Vijay Tel: + 66 819 30 27 01 E-mail: bsg_tz@yahoo.com; chetan@bluestarstones.com BLUESTAR GLOBAL LLC Contact: Sanjay Goyal Tel: +13478659362 E-mail: bluestarsanjay@gmail.com GEMFIELDS Contact: Janet Silk Website: www.gemfields.com Tel: +27 (0) 10 900 4266 E-mail: janetsilk@mweb.co.za; janet@janetsilk.com; janet.silk@gemfields.co.uk MARILLIER’S GEMS Contact: Rashid Marillier Tel: +27 (0) 82 772 1023 E-mail: rashid.mgems@gmail.com OUTCLASS CRYSTALIZED GEMS Contact: Desmond Ratsoma Tel: +27 (0)72 504 0515 E-mail: ratsomad@ocgems.co.za COSTUME JEWELLERY NKWE MARKETING Contact: Marileen van Wyk Tel: +27 (0) 83 5302 800 E-mail: glassforming@gmail.com DESIGN SOFTWARE AND 3D PRINTERS 3D WAX WORX Contact: Farrel Pillay Website: www.3dwaxworx.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 87 086 1246 E-mail: info@3dwaxworx.co.za

BOROBALO DIAMONDS Contact: Dewet Tshonto Website: www.borobalodiamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 18 596 1362 E-mail: borobalo@hotmail.co.za BYL DIAMONDS Contact: Yvette Oosthuizen Website: www.byldiamonds.com Tel: +27 (0) 21 419 2000; +27 (0) 60 801 4954 E-mail: yvette@byldiamonds.com DIAMONDS AFRICA (PTY) LTD Contact: Munirah Desai Tel: +27 (0) 74 567 4545 E-mail: diamondsafrica@outlook.com DORON DIAMONDS Contact: Ben Doron Website: www.dorondiamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 7228 E-mail: info@dorondiamonds.co.za KWAME DIAMONDS CC Contact: Jo Mosibudi Mathole Website: www.kwamediamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 9464; +27 (0) 72 943 8667 E-mail: jo.mathole@kwamediamonds.co.za MOLEFI LETSIKI DIAMOND HOLDINGS CC Contact: Molefi Letsiki Website: www.mldiamonds.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 050 1099; +27 (0) 82 484 9721 E-mail: ml@mldiamonds.com MURCIA AND CO Contact: Jarrid Murcia Website: www.murciaco.com Tel: +27 (0) 21 418 7891 E-mail: jarrid@murciaco.com NUNGU DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Contact: Kealeboga Pule Website: www.nungu-diamonds.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 11 052 4557; +27 (0) 73 257 5226 E-mail: kppule@nungu-diamonds.co.za STATE DIAMOND TRADER Contact: Zodwa Kobuwe Website: www.statediamondtrader.gov.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 2791 E-mail: godfrey.mance@ statediamondtrader.gov.za THOKO’S DIAMONDS CC Contact: Thoko Zwane Website: www.thokosdiamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 4571 E-mail: thoko@thokosdiamonds.co.za; ziphodlamini@thokosdiamonds.co.za UNITY DIAMOND DISTRIBUTORS Contact: Dani Buhai Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 2594 E-mail: dani@unitydiamonds.co.za; V AND O DIAMOND AND JEWELLERY Contact: Vusi Bophela Tel: +27 (0) 11 021 3379 E-mail: vvdiamondd@yahoo.com EDUCATION AND TRAINING DESIGN@50 Contact: Edna de Bruyn Tel: +27 (0) 87 350 9610 E-mail: edna@design50.co.za EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Contact: Colin Campbell Website: www.http://ejp.yolasite.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 825 5822 E-mail: ejpmarketing@ejewellery.org.za GIA EDUCATION AND LABORATORY Contact: Elizabeth Bokaba Website: www.gia.edu Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 2744 E-mail: ebokaba@gia.edu GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Contact: Robert Buys Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 857 2854 E-mail: robertb@globaljewellery academy.co.za KEITH WHITE DESIGN (PTY) LTD Contact: Keith White Website: www.keithwhite.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 2212 E-mail: Keith@keithwhite.co.za KIMBERLY DIAMOND AND JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Contact: Katlego Loeto Tel: +27 (0) 53 831 1570 E-mail: loetok@kdji.co.za

KIMBERLY INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND & JEWELLERY ACADEMY Contact: Shereen Mohamed Tel: +27 (0) 87 310 7683 E-mail: shakes2128@gmail.com MINING QUALIFICATIONS AUTHORITY Contact: Baitse Mokiti Website: www.mqa.org.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 547 2617 E-mail: BaitseM@mqa.org.za MINTEK Contact: Nirdesh Singh Website: www.mintek.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 709 4111 E-mail: mphomako@mintek.co.za SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Contact: Mabatjo Malatji Website: www.slji.org.za Tel: +27 (0) 15 293 0214 E-mail: mabatho@slji.org.za THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Contact: Dawood Bismilla Website: www.benefittohumanity.com Tel: +27 (0) 73 255 2744 E-mail: db.bda@hotmail.com TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Contact: Nina Newman Website: www.tut.ac.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 382 6007 E-mail: newmann@tut.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Contact: Thato Radebe Website: https://www.uj.ac.za/ faculties/fada Tel: +27 (0) 11 559 1125 E-mail: thator@uj.ac.za FINE JEWELLERY EUROPGOLD Contact: Jonathan Friedman Tel: +27 (0) 11 643 5311 E-mail: jon@europgold.com JEFF’S WHOLESALE JEWELLERS Contact: Jeff Sluzki Website: Tel: +27 (0)11 346 2994 E-mail: sluzki@netactive.co.za JENNI GAULT INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY DESIGN Contact: Jenni Gault Website: www.jennigault.com Tel: +27 (0) 83 379 9797 E-mail: admin@jennigault.com JENNY WOOLF JEWELLERY Contact: Jenny Woolf Website: www.jennywoolfjewellery.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 83 309 3392 E-mail: jenny.b.woolf@gmail.com MORAGLIONE 1922 ITALY Contact: Matteo Vergioli Website: www.moraglione.com Tel: +39.0131.94.17.19 E-mail: mave@moraglione.com

ORO AFRICA Contact: Gary Nathan Website: www.oroafrica.com Tel: CPT:+27 (0) 21 480 9860 JHB: +27 (0) 11 645 9260 E-mail: gnathan@oroafrica.com; kvessen@oroafrica.com; chantal@oroafrica.com; PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Contact: Aroon Bhoora Website: www.piyuvejewellers.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 32 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewellers.co.za PNEUMA JEWELLERS Contact: Heidi Sheppard Website: www.pneumajewellers .co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 702 1462 E-mail: pneumasales@gmail.com PRODIAM TRADING Contact: Daniel Feigin Website: www.prodiam.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 9010 E-mail: danielf@prodiam.co.za PROTEA DIAMONDS Contact: Donna Ooshuizen Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 7205 E-mail: donna@proteadiamonds.co.za REALGOLD WHOLESALERS Contact: Mike Miller Website: Tel: +27 (0) 11 022 8066 or +27 (0) 82 891 8066 E-mail: mem@absamail.co.za RICHLINE SA Contact: Mercia Thomas Website: www.richlinegroup.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; mercia@richlinesa.co.za ROMA WHOLESALERS Contact: Rene Rodrigues Website: www.Romagold.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 365 2201 E-mail: David@romagold.co.za SA JEWELLERY Contact: Peter Fisherman Website: www.sajewellery.co.za Tel: + 27 (0) 11 025 3030 E-mail: info@sajewellery.co.za SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Contact: Edith Efune Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za SKYLER T Contact: Saloshnie Naidoo Website: www.skylert.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 374 7219 E-mail: saloshnie.naidoo@debeers group.com SPARK CREATIONS Contact: Reuven Gralnik Website: www.sparksa.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 11 326 8164 E-mail: accounts@sparksa.co.za STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Contact: Chris van Rensburg Website: www.studioc.co.za Tel: +27 (0)11 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za UNGAR BROTHERS Contact: Ronald Ungar Website: www.ungarbros.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 642-2018/19 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za; ungar1@worldonline.co.za MATERIAL SUPPLIERS CAPE PRECIOUS METALS Contact: Sharon Eades Website: www.capepreciousmetals.com Tel: +27 (0) 21 551 2066 E-mail: orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za; malcolm@cpmd.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD Contact: Charlotte Crosse Website: www.metcon.co.za Tel: PTA +27 (0) 12 000 4440; CT +27 (0) 21 510 0770; DUR +27 (0) 83 600 2210 E-mail: phillip@metcon.co.za THE DE BEERS GROUP OF COMPANIES Contact: Lynn Berowsky Website: www.debeersgroup.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 374 7566 E-mail: Lynn.Berowsky@debeersgroup.com PEARLS HOUSE OF PEARLS Contact: Tanja Munnik Website: Tel: +27 (0) 83 355 1322 E-mail: pearlhouse@mtnloaded.co.za NICK THE PEARLMAN Contact: Nick Hasselman Website: www.nickthepearlman.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 804 3701 or +27 (0) 82 893 6444 E-mail: nickthepearlman@worldonline.co.za SERVICES TO THE INDUSTRY BRINKS SA (PTY) LTD Contact: Thuli Ndlovu Website: www.brinks.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 1793 E-mail: thuli.ndlovu@brinksglobal.com CHEVRON JEWELLERS GROUP Contact: Lynette Schalkwyk Website: www.chevronjewellers.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 917 3463 E-mail: office@chevron-jewellers.co.za; accounts@chevron-jewellers.co.za GAUTENG INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ZONE Contact: Ayub Mayet Website: www.gidz.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 10 001 9120 E-mail: ayubm@ggda.co.za

IBV GOLD (PTY) LTD Contact: Melissa Narainsamy Website: www.ibvgold.com Tel: +27 (0) 11 783 6101 E-mail: melissa@ibvglobal.com; ashok@ibvglobal.com JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Contact: Sancia Mincher Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 82 498 6352; +27 (0)72 757 0615 E-mail: sancia@jewellersnetwork.co.za JEWELLERS’S DISPUTE SOLUTIONS Contact: Mervyn Malamed Website: www.jewellersdisputesolutions.co.za Tel: + 27 (0) 82 900 8000 E-mail: mervyn@ jewellersdispute solutions.co.za JEWELTECH SOFTWARE Contact: Quintin le Roux Website: www.jeweltech.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 87 351 8068 E-mail: quintin@jeweltech.co.za MERCANTILE BANK Contact: Tazneem Naidoo Website: www.mercantile.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 87 354 3340 E-mail: TANaidoo@mercantile.co.za NEDBANK LIMITED Contact: Lorna Louw Website: www.nedbank.co.za Tel: +27 (0)11 294 0894 E-mail: lornal@nedbank.co.za POLYGON UNDERWRITING AGENCY Contact: Eulalie Boshoff Website: Tel: +27 (0) 82 828 9983 E-mail: eulalie@polygongroup.co.za SA JEWELLERY NEWS (SAJN) Contact: Andrew Meyer Website: www.isikhova.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 883 4627 E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMOND AND PRECIOUS METALS REGULATOR Contact: Lwazi Nogxina Website: www.sadpmr.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 223 7000 E-mail: lwazin@sadpmr.co.za SPECTROMETER TECHNOLOGIES Contact: Mirko Steinhage Website: www.us-tech.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 905 0476 E-mail: info@ustech.co.za

Website: www.jewellery.org.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 5528 E-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

TRANSACTION CONTROL TECHNOLOGIES Contact: Akshay Prahaladh Website: www.tct.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 888 1210 E-mail: solutions@tct.co.za

SILVER CHERRY Contact: Denaine McMillan Tel: +27 (0) 12 654 4520 E-mail: hen131313@hotmail.com

THE JEWELERY SHOPKEEPER Contact: Odessa Perelson Website: www.shopkeer.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 41 379 1059 E-mail: odessa@shoso.co.za SILVER JEWELLERY AKHONA IDUBE Contact: Sibongile Mntungwana Website: www.Akhonaidube.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 78 235 8862 E-mail: aijewellerymnf@gmail.com ANNA-B JEWELLERY Contact: Anna Zetler Website: www.annab.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 481 1023 E-mail: orders@annab.co.za CORNERSTONE CREATIONS Contact: Khulekani Michael Nkala Tel: +27 (0) 82 599 5919 E-mail: Cornerstonelof@gmail.com

SOMETHING SPECIAL Contact: Mark Hammerschlag Website: www.somethingspecial.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 544 1500 E-mail: info@somethingspecial.co.za THE TRADING CO Contact: Selwyn Brickman Website: www.thetradingco.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 424 2999 E-mail: selwyn@ttco.co.za TIRANG CREATIONS AND DESIGNS Contact: Lee Tau Website: tirangjewellers.wiz.com/tirang Tel: +27 (0)61 954 7195 E-mail: tirangjewellery@gmail.com VERSITRADE & THE SILVER PEACOCK Contact: Wenda Baeumont - Currie Tel: +27 (0) 82 579 2058 E-mail: versitrade@worldonline.co.za TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

CTHATI JEWELS Contact: Bridget Lesetedi Website: www.cthati.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 63 179 8599 E-mail: Cthatijewellery@gmail.com

CAPE WATCH TOOL & JEWELLERY SUPPLIES Contact: Tennille Hoge Website: www.capewatch.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 424 8261 E-mail: tkh@capewatch.co.za

GAGE & PORTER PTY LTD Contact: Danielle Camera Website: www.gageporter.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 64 906 2994 E-mail: dp@gageporter.co.za

JEWEL TEC Contact: Iqbal or Farouk Website: Tel: +27 (0) 31 205 5111 or +27 (0) 21 424 6257 E-mail: info @ jeweltec.co.za

ITALCHAIN Contact: Sofia Costaras Website: www.italchain.com Tel: +27 (0) 61 719 1886 E-mail: italchain@gmail.com

LIPMAN AND SON Contact: Ian Lipman Website: www.lipmanson.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 4243371 E-mail: ian@lipmanson.co.za

JIYATHE PROJECTS (PTY) LTD Contact: Jiyana Tshenge Tel: +27 (0)73 103 2413 E-mail: jiyanatshenge@yahoo.com

RAPID 3D JV (PTY) LTD Contact: Pauline Bullock Website: www.rapid3d.co.za Tel: KZN: +27 (0)87 802 0604; JHB: +27 (0)86 100 0185; CPT: +27 (0)21 521 9600 E-mail: pauline@rapid3d.co.za

PHRONESIS Contact: Beauty Magudu Tel: +27 (0) 84 620 7991 E-mail: beauty.mbangula@gmail.com

SURESWIPE Contact: Ally Tonello Website: www.sureswipe.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 581 1200 E-mail: ally@sureswipe.co.za

REG AND PHIL JEWELLERS Contact: Boitshepo Mongale Tel: +27 (0) 79 619 4137 E-mail: karaboreginald29@gmail.com

THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF S.A. Contact: Lorna Lloyd

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Contact: Nthabiseng Xaba

PLEASE NOTE: All information supplied was correct at the time of going to print. For queries, contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484 5528.

Buyers’ Guide 2017 in partnership with:

PLEASE NOTE: All information 2017 supplied was correct at the time of going to print. For queries, contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484 5528.

PROPOSED LAYOUT - JEWELLEX

2017/09/27

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

2017 Bangkok Gems an The 2017 Bangkok Gems and Jewellery Fair opened its doors on 6 September and was attended by more than 1 500 companies in 3 000 booths, utilising over 100 000 m2 space.

THE OPENING CEREMONY OF THIS YEAR’S Bangkok Gems and Jewellery Fair was hosted in the Royal Jubilee Ballroom at the exhibition centre Impact. The banquet hall at the venue was decorated in a very lavish style, taking one back to the days of The King and I, when Thailand was still called Siam. Against a backdrop of a temple in the grounds of the Royal Palace with garden paths among lavish plants and flowers, we were treated to a fashion show. The opening ceremony was attended by Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana, herself an accomplished jewellery designer with her designs on display at the show.

The event took place over five days; the first three were solely for trade and the last two for consumers. When asked whether this created a problem for local manufacturers and wholesalers, the response was that exhibitors had two price points – one for retailers and another for the public. The “wholesalers”, as we know

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them in our market, are no longer a “player”, with manufacturers promoting directly to retail and consumers, cutting the middle man out, as is also the case in areas like the UK. In January 2017, a Cabinet Resolution on gems and jewellery product import stipulated duty exemption on items which resulted in zero tax as of February 2017 onwards. Bangkok fair exhibitors are registered as exempt from valueadded tax until products are sold at the fair. The measure is beneficial to registered exhibitors who import and then re-export their unsold product untaxed.

The show was divided into the following main sections: gems, fine jewellery, silver jewellery and machinery. The gemstone section dominated, with stunning merchandise on offer, mined across the globe and polished mainly in Thailand.

For visitors to the show, transport from all the major hotels to the venue at special rates was very well organised. The total number of visitors

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

expected to grow by 5% over 2016. The price increase of gold has had a negative effect on sales expectations.

3. The bulk of jewellery (80%) produced in Thailand is for export. The biggest export markets are Hong Kong, then the USA and, thirdly, Germany.

4. As with most other markets the local Thai jewellery markets is fighting other luxury product (mobile phones, etc) and this is having a negative effect on sales.

5. Thailand has a very friendly export regime and its government does all in its power to assist with this. The 20 million tourist market in the country annually is very good for jewellery sales, as tourism depart ments work with the industry to promote these purchases.

6. Thailand is a very popular wedding venue and this also generates jewellery sales from local manufacturers.

7. Asked about the position the industry takes on “man-made diamonds”, the response was that the decision will be driven by the market.

8. Jewellery is high on the list of desirable items in Thailand and rubies have a very spe cial position, as can be seen from the fact that a conference is being called for in November to deal with ruby-related issues.

Most rubies now come from SA's neighbouring country, Mozambique.

When looking at the manufacturing industry in Thailand, the number of people employed is staggering, with factories employing anything from 300-3 000 people. The sheer number of these employees ensures that the government

nd Jewellery Fair exceeded 20 000 over the four days. While SA lags behind the rest of the world when it comes to precious coloured gem sales, a number of South Africans attended the show, including a representative from the State Diamond Trader. Strong and brilliantly coloured gemstones dominated the fair and trade with buyers from around the world was evident if one listened to all the different languages being spoken.

During a press conference with InspectorGeneral Chantira Jimreivat Vivatrat, the following points were raised: 1. The Thailand Trust Mark (TTM), the symbol of excellence and trust created to promote Thai product and endorsed by the Royal Thai Government, is helping to showcase the workmanship that goes into jewellery created in that country. This classification ensured that the selected products were produced under socially and environmentally responsible conditions and that customers received the best-quality product and service. Thailand does not have a hall making system as yet, but it is being developed. At present it is a voluntary system, rather than a compulsory one.

2. Thailand currently exports US$14 billion worth of jewellery per year and this figure is

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

does all in its power to promote and market the industry. While the local market prefers 18ct or 22ct gold jewellery, the export market for silver jewellery made in Thailand is very strong. When looking at developing an export market for jewellery, one would expect that these factories

need a strong local supply route to traders, but this is not the case: many manufacturers only create for the export market. From a retail point of view, the biggest market remains the 45+ age group, while the millennial generation seems to be more focused on other luxury goods, such as smartphones, computers and a myriad of gadgets.

Walking around the show, it was very evident that the Western influence on design is great and there has been a move away from traditional jewellery. The Thai manufacturing industry is very market-led and designs what is currently trendy or “in” on a global basis. The manufacturing skills in the country are very good and the quality of product is world-class.

The industry does invest in developing the manufacturing skills required to develop the local manufacturing base.

Thailand’s gem and jewellery industry constitutes an essential part of the country’s trade and exports. Ranked third after the auto and electronics industries, it generates over US$10 billion in revenue annually. Domestically, this sector is a key driver of the country’s economy by generating a decent income for over one million artisans and skilled labourers.

An interesting sector at the show was “New Faces”, devoted to emerging SMEs and creating a platform for these young designers to expose their product to the world at the Bangkok show. During the event, an extensive programme of seminars and consultation clinics was conducted by leading professionals and design experts, plus on-site gemmological laboratory services from the Gem & Jewellery Institute of Thailand and other world-leading gemmological institutes.

The Department of International Trade Promotion in the Ministry of Commerce in Thailand is very active through its embassies around the world, working with open international visitors and assisting them with travel arrangements. Should you be interested in attending the fair, please contact the Thai Embassy in Pretoria for information. Tel: (012) 342-5470. Visit: www.thaiembassy.org/ pretoria/en

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BRAND HISTORY

A story with significant milestones During its 124-year existence, the Wenger company has gone through many different stages. Its history is shaped by a passion for quality, precision and outstanding craftmanship, as well as many iconic products, including the world-famous “Swiss Army Knife”.

THE WENGER STORY BEGAN IN 1893 IN Switzerland, when an industrial cutlery house named Paul Boechat & Cie (the future Wenger) was founded in the Delémont Valley. As the second industrial cutlery manufacturer of the country, the company received a contract from the Swiss Army to produce knives.

In 1897 Theodore Wenger, a minister who had served in the USA, was returning home to Switzerland and was hired by the group of entrepreneurs that had bought Boechat & Cie two years previously. Once on board, being a savvy entrepreneur, Wenger immediately acquired a manufacturing machine for spoons and forks to join the knife production. The machine was later moved to a rented factory in Delémont.

In 1900, a new 1 700 m2 facility was built.

Both the utensil operations and the Courtételle cutlery production were incorporated into the new plant.

The first of a number of significant milestones was reached in 1908 when the Swiss Army decided to split the contract, with half the orders going to Victorinox, in the Germanspeaking canton of Schwyz, and the other half to Wenger in the French-speaking section of the canton of Berne.

1929 marked the beginning of another new era for the Wenger company when Kaspar Oertli assumed the reins, following the death

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of Theodore Wenger. And yet another major year in the company’s history was 1988, when Wenger began producing watches.

In 2005, it was taken over by Victorinox, its rival knife brand. However, that never meant the loss of the Wenger brand’s distinctive iden-

tity: quite the contrary. Starting in 2013, the unique Wenger knives were incorporated in the Victorinox brand. while Wenger remained focused on further developing its watches.

Wenger watches are designed to meet the most rigorous military requirements. They must be able to withstand extreme cold and humid-

ity, impacts, magnetism and sudden changes in altitude. They are generally considered to be high-quality watches which are still affordable for most people. Each watch offers three specific quality features that aren’t always found in other affordable timepiece brands today: • Mechanism durability: Wenger watches are rumoured to use Chinese quartz crystals for their movement, but in reality, they use synthetic rubies. This prevents these “Swiss Army Watches” from premature wear within the mechanism.

• Time accuracy: Wenger manufactures its own proprietary movements, making it an authentic Swiss movement watch. Many public reviews note that the majority of these watches stay within a few seconds of the actual time over years of use.

• High scratch-resistance: The watches manu factured by Wenger are coated and hard ened to double the industry standards on most collections. Hardened mineral or sap phire crystals are used so that most daily wear opportunities will not scratch the watch at all.

The collection is split into various families and caters to every aspect of traditional usage.

Wenger’s characteristic logo, the cross of Switzerland engraved in a red square with rounded corners, sits in the 12 o’clock position on the case. Some models have silver escutcheons, for aesthetic reasons. Every Wenger watch is covered by a three-year warranty and incorporates the same basic qualities as the Swiss Army knife – ingenuity, functionality, reliability and, above all, remarkable value for money.

Today, Wenger watches are represented in more than 80 countries on all continents.

Besides the USA, Japan, China, Germany, Switzerland, Canada and Mexico are their main markets. The collection includes casual watches for everyday use, sports watches with specific features and ladies’ watches, with a more fashionable design.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

RETAIL CORNER

lenges such as a fluctuating diamond price, an uncertain rand value, fast-changing fashions, our high cost of holding stock, the threat of synthetic diamonds, enhanced coloured gems, ethical perceptions, escalating crime, the expectations of our Millennium and Generation X buyers, and the seismic influence of the Internet require clear heads and modern-day solutions.

SAJN has asked me to comment, in future editions, on the challenges facing our industry – an industry that involves itself with unique gems and metals, one with a special protocol and trade practices subject to extreme governmental regulations. Often, I think: “We’ve been here before” or: “The basics are still the same.”

Alas, the advent of technology has been a game-changer and today, jewellers need more than common sense and a love of beautiful things.

For starters, they need to ask themselves: “Do I belong in this industry?” Our young entrepreneurs must be aware that the diamond and jewellery industry is a people’s business and success is determined by personality, skills, trust, ethics and the ability to serve. It can never be a get-rich-quick business, as goodwill and reputation take years to create and weigh more than the stones you may own. Equally, product knowledge is imperative. If you cannot see the SI in a diamond or differentiate between white gold and platinum, you should get out. You will not last in a game that requires much more than good eyesight.

However, for the diligent and honest worker, our industry offers more than material wealth.

It provides an opportunity to improve ourselves, to study, to research, to create, to add value and, above all, to trade in the most precious and beautiful items on earth. The clients we serve are in love, able to afford a luxury, appreciative, bright-eyed and willing to become lifelong supporters. What a pleasure to make a living in such a market! Few industries can offer this.

So next time the rand strengthens or a new regulation is promulgated, accept the challenge; it remains a privilege to make a living from the most precious things Mother Nature provides.

Love your industry A monthly column written by industry expert Dr Petré Prins.

IN 1949, MASTER GOLDsmith Gerald Potash and his family immigrated from East Germany to settle in Cape Town. Within a few years, goldsmiths with names such as Köhler, Koetter, Keder, Hirner, Kurgan, Huppertz, Baldinger, Melamed and Oboler, among others, had followed and were trading diamonds and making fine jewellery in the Western Cape. Their expertise and the hand skills of the local Malay population allowed their workshops to flourish and, within a decade, large diamond wholesalers and jewellery manufacturing companies with trade names such as Kurgan, OBLO and JAYEM were not only producing the bulk of South African fine jewellery, but also exporting worldwide.

Apart from Koetter, none of these once highly successful family businesses still exist. A few families emigrated to the USA or Australia, while the others found trading conditions too difficult to continue. None of them lasted more than three generations.

Could it be that South Africa, blessed with the bulk of the world’s gold, platinum and diamonds, is not destined, able or allowed to be a major manufacturer of fine jewellery? Could the curse of abundance, the ease of digging and exporting, never adding value, lie at the root of this? Moreover, when the nature of politicians is to wage war over natural resources and pass laws to control and regulate the wealth of their country, should we expect a thriving South

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African jewellery industry? I think not.

For decades, our diamond industry, retail jewellers and manufacturers laboured under extreme regulations, political uncertainty and a stagnant economy. No luxury industry could grow. Since 1994, our economy improved, a new and growing middle and upper class aspired to own fine jewellery and tourists flocked to the land of gold and diamonds.

All good and promising. However, new diamond and gold laws, BEE and Fica requirements, green and inept regulators, insufficient training in the manufacturing and retail sec-

tors, unskilled workers and a lack of funding made it difficult for our young entrepreneurs to get a foothold in the industry. Rather, it forced many of our established diamond and jewellery manufacturers to set up shop in neighbouring countries. Thus the diminished and stagnant state of our industry.

For those of us still making a living in the diamond and gold sector, the challenges are mounting. We live in a most dynamic and metamorphic time, and our jewellers are faced with a diverse range of complex issues and uncertainties. Modern-day chal-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

BRAND MANAGEMENT

New boutique for London For the first time, visitors to a London prime shopping centre can now experience a full range of Seiko and Grand Seiko watch collections.

The brand has long wanted to open a Seiko boutique in this city, said Shuji Takahashi, President and CEO of the Seiko Watch Corporation at the inauguration ceremony in August.

He believes Seiko has found the perfect location for its boutique in London’s prestigious luxury centre in the Brompton Road, Knightsbridge,

where it can display its products and demonstrate what makes it special.

The boutique showcases the very best of Seiko, including the Astron GPS Solar, Presage, Prospex and Premier collections. In a special area dedicated to the brand is the widest selection of the luxury brand Grand Seiko anywhere in Europe, in an environment where watch-lovers can experience and explore the richness and diversity of their timepieces.

Visitors can also acquire a knowledge of the company’s 136-year history, its landmark technical achievements and the diversity of watchmaking technologies.

Seiko claims it is one of the few watchmakers which is fully integrated – the movements of the watches in the boutique are made from components manufactured entirely in-house, providing guaranteed performance and durability at the highest level. The brand enjoys a high reputation for its handcrafted excellence, unique design and extraordinary precision, including its Spring Drive and quartz calibres.

Breitling’s Superocean Héritage II 46 The Superocean professional diver’s watch launched in 1957 has given rise to several generations of instruments boasting peerless aquatic performance. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of this pioneer of wide open spaces, Breitling has revamped its iconic design. The main development is a new steel bezel with an ultra-hard, high-tech ceramic ring that is scratch-proof and extremely shock-resistant.

The elimination of the metal ring surrounding the minute circle means that this bezel appears

to form a seamless whole, with the dial bearing the original Superocean logo. The shape of the hands – triangular for the hours and lozenge-like for the minutes – as well as the slightly coneshaped hour-markers reinforces ties with the 1957 model, while ensuring optimal legibility.

In terms of performance, this new Superocean Héritage II is water-resistant to 200 m and beats to the rhythm of the Manufacture Calibre 20, chronometer-certified by the COSC and endowed with a more than 70-hour power reserve.

Eberhard & Co celebrates 130th anniversary Chrono 4 130 celebrates the 130th anniversary of Eberhard & Co and expresses its capacity to constantly reinvent itself in ways that show its pride in its origins without ever giving up an ounce of its independence. This new timepiece, with its bold personality and sporting style, is distinctive for the “130” inscribed on the crown, elegantly flanked by the wing-shaped chronograph pushers.

A registered design, the four counters horizontally align across the dial in grey, silver tones or black, complete with orange or blue accents.

The centre of the dial catches the eye with its diamond sun-brushed finish, while the snailed finish of the outer rim provides contrast and a back-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

drop for the luminescent markers to stand out.

It has a mechanical automatic, EB 251 12” calibre movement on an ETA 2894-2 base and features an Eberhard & Co-registered design with four in-line counters and 53 jewels. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date, 24-hour display and a tachymeter.

Its satin-finished and polished steel case is 42 mm in diameter. It features sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside and is water-resistant to 50 m.

The Chrono 4 130 is available with a greyblack carbon wear strap bearing an E&C personalised buckle or a steel version with a patented Déclic buckle.

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Global Jewellery Academy trains and incubates young entrepreneurs with disabilities and youth from disadvantaged communities to become successful business jewellers.

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY (for People Living with Disabilities) Address: Portion 302I Q, 159 Volta Street, Lenasia Ext 10, 1827, Johannesburg, South Africa Tel: 011 857 2854 | 011 857 1426 E-mail: info@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Enabling people living disabilities to achieve their dreams,

LITTLE GEMS

Vintage jewels: a reflection of history Something old gives one a glimpse of past societies and their history and this applies to vintage jewellery.

Alice Weil explores how this can cover many decades, with each era having its own identity.

GEORGIAN JEWELLERY IS dated 1714-1847, a period in English history when the former Elector of Hanover became King George I, marking the beginning of the House of Hanover’s reign. Georgian jewellery was hand-made, which meant the quality of each piece varied. Jewels were generally inspired by nature with designs featuring birds and leaves, often containing precious gems.

The Victorian era covered the Queen’s reign from 1837 until her death in 1901. Because of the profits gleaned from the far-flung British Empire, it was a prosperous period under her long 63-year reign and is divided into three segments.

Early Victorian (1835-1855) was similarly inspired, rather delicate and intricately etched.Everyday jewels, generally of gold, favoured lockets and brooches, while diamonds and coloured gemstones were worn during the evening. It coincided with the Belle Époque of continental Europe and was a long period of practice in Britain, its policies influenced by the Whigs and the Tories in the House of Commons.

Mid-Victorian jewels (1856-1880) were influenced by the death of the Queen’s beloved Prince Albert. Jewellery pieces tended to be solemn, with dark stones such as jet, onyx, amethyst and garnet. It became known as mourning jewellery and was especially creative, with some more colourful designs featuring shells,

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mosaics and coloured stones. But excessive displays of jewels were frowned upon.

Late Victorian (1885-1900) was a reaction to this gloom and jewels were more assertive, featuring diamonds which, with the discovery in Kimberley, had become more plentiful. Brighter colours featured sapphire, peridot and spinel.

The Industrial Revolution which followed spearheaded the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th and early 20th century, particularly in England. It marked a return to handmade craftsmanship and more intricate designs. Yet these were simple and used colourful, uncut gems.

This was followed by the Art Nouveau period, somewhat ornate in execution but shorter in time, dating from 1895 to the advent of World War I in 1914. The movement actually began in Paris, but its influence spread throughout the Western World. In France René Lalique and in America Louis Comfort Tiffany followed curves, naturalistic lines and dreamlike images of ethereal beauties. In England, at the height of the Suffragette movement, the jewels were set with valuable stones and cloisonné enamels.

Silver was a popular metal and silver buckles were made in stylish Art Nouveau designs.

In England, when King Edward VII reigned and gave his name to the Edwardian era in his country’s history, he was a leader of the fashionable elite, setting a style influenced by the art and fashion of cultural Europe. This was encouraged by his fondness for travel, when the penchant for wealth and power was at its height and was important in the rigid class system. Elaborate designs were set with gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds and rubies.

His queen, Alexandra, amassed an enormous jewellery collection that included tiaras, which became her passion. Also prominent were dog collars and chokers (to conceal a scar on her neck), necklaces and brooches.

Long strings of pearls (real, in those days) became her signature and were copied by society beauties.

Art Deco followed (1915-1935), which is defined as the era between two world wars.

Its jewellery is arguably the most popular (and copied) vintage. Designs were influenced by African, Egyptian and Japanese themes, including the discoveries of the period which is famous for its geometric designs, sharp lines and bright colours. Materials included bakelite, celluloid, enamel and doublets. Necklaces were long and many bracelets were worn at once. Chokers were popular, as were amber and Murano beads.

Inspired by Hollywood of the 1940s to the 1960s and the fascination with its film stars was retro jewellery. It is colourful, bold and elaborate. This was the era of flashy cocktail rings (recently revived), bracelets and watches, necklaces and charm bracelets. And what of more recent times and heading into the future? Inspiration is often triggered by jewels of the past and uses imaginative materials such as elephant hair, wood and rubber with little intrinsic value. But importance is placed on imagination and the presentation, defying the belief that there is nothing new under the sun. There is!

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2017

“The hardness of a diamond is part of its usefulness, but its true value is in the light that shines though it.”

B.K.S Iyengar

ROMANELLI DIAMONDS SUPPLIERS OF POLISHED DIAMOND SMALLS AND CERTIFIED POLISHED DIAMONDS Suite G9, 3 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, 2196 Tel: 010 020 6808 • Orders: 010 020 6810 • E-mail: orders@romanelli.co.za

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery.

TM

TM

www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433