SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • October 2023

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A jeweller’s latest must-haves Obsessed with gemstones Buffalo coin launched to complete Big 5 Series II Jewellex returns with a bang SA OCTOBER 2023 SADMA ELECTS NEW EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE jewellerynews
Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite FoundationTM certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite BlueTM jewellery. www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029

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9. NEWS

• SADMA elects new executive committee

• IIJS Première 2023 generates highest-ever business

• Pandora unveils new lab-grown lines in “Diamonds for All” campaign

• GIA adds “Hanadama” quality range comment to pearl reports

14. JEWELLEX RETURNS WITH A BANG

Jewellex Africa 2023 concluded successfully, with exhibitors and visitors expressing satisfaction at the business done during the event, as well as the venue and positive atmosphere.

16. SEEN AT JEWELLEX

After a three-year gap, Jewellex Africa was once again bustling with visitors and exhibitors from the trade.

24. A JEWELLER’S LATEST MUST-HAVES

A slew of tools, machinery and equipment has emerged in recent years to give jewellers a serious competitive edge.

20. OBSESSED WITH GEMSTONES

After being at the same premises for more than 15 years, Ajanta Afrika will be moving offices at the end of this month.

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22. TRANSFORMING AFRICA’S MANUFACTURING LANDSCAPE

Africa is filled with potential, talent and untapped resources. Bountiful regional natural reserves have driven the population towards ingenuity and innovation.

27. DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

Plastic deformation: How and why are most diamonds slightly distorted?

35. BUFFALO COIN LAUNCHED TO COMPLETE BIG 5 SERIES II

The South African Mint Company has announced the availability of the final offering in the popular Big 5 Series II coin range, featuring the buffalo.

36. UNDERSTANDING THE FUTURE POWER OF AN INDIVIDUAL’S DIGITAL IDENTITY

The way we perceive business flourishing is undergoing a paradigm shift as digital identity and consumer consent redefine the dynamics of transactions.

40. BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa.

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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Editor's note

After three years of waiting, the time had finally come again for Jewellex – and it was definitely worth the wait. There is no better place to network with people in the local jewellery industry under one roof than at Jewellex and after much anticipation and great excitement, hundreds of industry stakeholders assembled there at the beginning of last month to have face-to-face interactions.

More than 50 exhibitors helped to deliver a wonderful event where visitors were introduced to the many new collections and products launched at the show and could watch live demonstrations on many of the exhibitors’ stands.

The vibrant atmosphere and the dynamic and passionate people in attendance made me realise anew what a wonderful industry this is. It was heartening to see the way people support and encourage each other and how everyone wants the industry to thrive.

I have spoken to many exhibitors as well as visitors and have yet to hear a single negative comment about the event. I am already excited about next year’s Jewellex, which I am sure will be on a much larger scale to accommodate more exhibitors.

I sincerely thank Lorna, Elsa, Darryl and

jewellerynews

everyone else who was involved in arranging this exhibition, which invigorated all of us as we head towards the end of the year.

In this issue, we look at some of the show’s highlights and share photographs of those who attended as either exhibitors or visitors.

We also talk to Adine Lutz of Ajanta Afrika, who – having occupied the same premises for more than 15 years – will be moving offices at the end of this month. We view jewellers’ latest must-haves, as well as the new buffalo coin which has been launched to complete the Big 5 Series II.

With the Manufacturing Indaba taking place from 24-26 October at the Sandton Convention Centre, we explore the way Africa’s manufacturing landscape can be transformed into an advanced technological hub.

We hope you enjoy this issue. If we did not feature you in our social pages, we invite you to send us your pictures from Jewellex so that we can share them on our social media platforms.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

ON THE COVER

jewellerynews

Ajanta Afrika is a South African supplier of precious and semi-precious gemstones, as well as unconventional diamonds and beads. Its passion for stones shows in its wide range of unique and typical gems that it sources from around the world. Ajanta Afrika will be launching its new website this month which will showcase approximately 4 000 products, as well as price lists. Members of the trade simply need to register on the website to be approved as a wholesale buyer to access its array of products and information. For more information, visit: www.ajantaafrika.com.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023
A jeweller’s latest must-haves Obsessed with gemstones Buffalo coin launched to complete Big 5 Series returnsJewellex with a bang SA OCTOBER2023 SADMA ELECTS NEW EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
A jeweller’s latest must-haves Obsessed with gemstones Buffalo coin launched to complete Big 5 Series II Jewellex returns with a bang SA OCTOBER 2023 SADMA ELECTS NEW EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
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Pandora unveils new lab-grown lines in “Diamonds for All” campaign

Pandora is launching a marketing campaign for three new lab-grown collections as part of its efforts to “democratise diamonds”.

The Danish jeweller has recruited a plethora of celebrity ambassadors for the new “Diamonds for All” campaign, including actresses Pamela Anderson and Amita Suman, Vogue Creative Director Grace Coddington and models Achok Majak, Precious Lee and Sherri Shi.

With this move, Pandora aims to continue “rewriting the rules of diamond jewellery”, says the company. This involves changing the tagline from “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” to “Diamonds are everyone’s best friend” and replacing “diamonds on ring fingers” with “diamonds on every finger”.

The three collections at the centre of the campaign are an expansion of the brand’s Pandora Lab-Grown Diamonds label. – Rapaport

SADMA elects new Executive Committee

The SA Diamond Manufacturers Association (SADMA) recently announced its new Executive Committee for the ensuing year.

I Kaplan was elected Chairperson, while L Pule was elected Vice-Chairperson. M Katz, O Temkin, C Kramer, D Camberg, M Lifshitz and V Shah were elected committee members.

De Beers and AfroCentric extend health services to communities in Limpopo

The De Beers Group and the AfroCentric Group have partnered to fund wellness screenings of about 25 000 community members in the labour sending areas surrounding Venetia Mine,

in Vhembe and Capricorn districts in Limpopo. The initiative supports government’s Checka Impilo campaign – an accelerated national wellness campaign that focuses on testing and treating people with HIV, TB, STIs and noncommunicable diseases such as hypertension and diabetes.

In collaboration with the South African Business Coalition on Health and AIDS (SABCOHA), the South African National Aids Council (SANAC) and the Private Sector Forum (PSF), the two companies hosted a Community Wellness Day at the Musina Showgrounds to provide vital healthcare services and wellness screenings to vulnerable employees, contractors, and community members.

De Beers and AfroCentric launched the campaign in January of 2023, completing 24 000 screenings by June 2023. The remaining 1 000 screenings were administered beginning of September, where the Minister of Health Dr Joe Phaahla, Vhembe District Executive Mayor Cllr Dowelani Nenguda and Musina Local Municipality Executive Mayor Cllr Godfrey Nkhanedzeni Mawela and key government officials were in attendance to witness the wellness screenings in action and receive a report-back on the outcomes of the campaign.

Speaking at the Wellness event, Joe Phaahla, said: “We hope this self-funded initiative by De Beers and AfroCentric will encourage other private-sector companies to follow in the footsteps of these leading companies to promote healthy lifestyles among their workforce and communities in which they have operations.”

De Beers Venetia Mine Senior General Manager, Ntokozo Ngema said: “We recognise that it is only through firm commitment and a shared resolve between government, the private sector and civil society that we can endeavour to make meaningful strides in the fight against the quadruple burden of disease that is prevalent in South Africa. This collaborative approach will enable the Department of Health to reach communities that would otherwise not have easy access to free comprehensive health services. We are proud to be part of this journey with all the partners involved.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 NEWS
speaks in...
(Top left): A community member getting her eyes tested at the Community Wellness Day. (Above): Ministerof Health Dr Joe Phaahla at the Community Wellness Day hosted by De Beers in partnership with AfroCentric.

IIJS Première 2023 generates highestever business

The 39th edition of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Première 2023, organised by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), concluded with an overwhelming response generating its highestever business. More than 50 000 visitors were recorded at the world’s second-largest gem and jewellery fair’s two venues: the JIO World Convention Centre (3-7 August) and the

Bombay Exhibition Centre, NESCO, Goregaon (4-8 August).

The paperless and fully-digital IIJS Première accommodated 3 250 stalls and welcomed 1 850 exhibitors, spread over an expansive area of 70 000 m² of exhibition area across the two venues. The event witnessed visitors from over 65 countries, including the USA, the UK, the UAE, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Fiji, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Iran, Muscat, Italy, Bangladesh, Bahrain, Kuwait, Germany, Turkey, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Sri Lanka, as well as exhibitors from seven countries. The distinguished guest list included delegations from 16 nations.

The grand show was attended by Shri Sunil Barthwal, Commerce Secretary: Department of Commerce; Mike Hankey, Consul-General: Consulate-General of the USA; Dr Sanjay

Mukherjee, IAS: Metropolitan Commissioner, MMRDA; Paul Rowley, Executive VicePresident: Diamond Trading, De Beers Group; GR Radhakrishnan, MD: GRT Jewellers India Pvt Ltd; CK Venkataraman, MD: Titan Company; GR Ananthapadmanabhan, MD: GRT Jewellers India Pvt Ltd; Vipul Shah, Chairperson: GJEPC; Kirit Bhansali, Vice-Chairperson: GJEPC; Nirav Bhansali, Convenor: National Exhibitions, GJEPC; Mitesh Gajera, Co-Convener, National Exhibitions: GJEPC and Sabyasachi Ray, Executive Director: GJEPC, among others.

“The IIJS is one of the largest exhibitions of gems and jewellery in the world and we can take pride in what we’re doing,” said Barthwal. “The gem and jewellery sector is a very important one for government because it’s highly labour-intensive. It generates a huge amount of creativity among our youth and it’s linked not only to the people cutting and polishing, but also to those designing jewellery. This is one of the most versatile industries and is very important for us. As government, we’re looking at the whole value chain of gems and jewellery, right from mining to the final selling. In particular, we’re seeking to develop the studded diamond jewellery segment, which is at the higher-value end.”

“The IIJS Première 2023 has achieved unprecedented success, surpassing all previous records and exceeding our expectations,” said Shah. “It’s singlehandedly reversed market sentiments and kick-started the business cycle into high gear, perfectly timed ahead of the festive and wedding seasons. The event is estimated to have seen business worth 70 000 being generated for the trade, which is far beyond anyone’s wildest dreams. As an exhibition, the IIJS is truly in a league of its own.

“Drawing participation from 65 different countries and a varied assemblage of over 2 100 international buyers, this gathering holds the potential to breathe new life into the

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 NEWS
colour.
www.manufacturingindaba.co.za CAPITALISING ON MANUFACTURING GROWTH IN AFRICA SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA 24 - 26 OCT 2023

GIA adds “Hanadama” quality range comment to pearl reports

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is adding a report comment for the historical trade term “Hanadama” to distinguish a designated quality range of cultured Akoya pearls.

The GIA’s analysis of the industry’s classification of pearls from the Akoya complex pearl oysters resulted in the identification of the quality range that was commonly agreed upon within the pearl trade as “Hanadama”. In order to receive the “Hanadama” comment, cultured Akoya pearls must display a combination of all of the following GIA Pearl Value Factors classification ranges: a round to near-round shape, a white body colour (with or without overtone), excellent lustre, a clean to lightly spotted surface, excellent to very good matching, and sufficient nacre thickness and quality.

When a pearl, strand or jewellery item meets the carefully defined parameters for “Hanadama”, a comment stating: “These pearls fall into the select quality range that is known in the trade as ‘Hanadama’ (or a variation thereof)” will be added to any GIA pearl classification report.

“We’ve undertaken a thorough exploration into the original and contemporary applications of the term ‘Hanadama’, along with gathering extensive input from industry insiders,” says Tom Moses, Executive Vice-President and Chief

Laboratory and Research Officer of the GIA. “Incorporating this historically important industry term into the report underpins our commitment to robust laboratory services and reports that allow consumers to make more informed choices in purchasing Akoya cultured pearls.”

There will be no additional fee for this change.

Although the GIA is best known for creating the four Cs and the GIA International Diamond Grading System, it has been a leader in identifying and classifying natural and cultured pearls since 1949. The institute has contributed to revising the US Federal Trade Commission’s pearl guidelines for the jewellery industry and is responsible for working with major pearl companies globally to develop comprehensive standards for describing pearls.

SA hosts BRICS future skills challenge

In a bid to enable businesses to meet and respond to new and emerging skills challenges, the Skills Development Working Group of the BRICS Council in South Africa hosted a skills challenge where hundreds of participants aged 18-35 from BRICS countries, namely Brazil, Russia, India, China and SA, pitted their skills against one another to develop solutions for a range of challenges in various fields.

This annual event, which is dubbed the BRICS Future Skills Challenge, was hosted in line with the outcomes of this year’s SA’s chairing of BRICS. Under the theme “Solving Today’s Problems Using Tomorrow’s Technol-

ogies”, participants in the BRICS Future Skills Challenge tested their skills and expertise in 12 skills areas, namely Internet marketing, manufacturing, mobile app development, aircraft maintenance, agri IoT, building information modelling, cybersecurity, data science, digital twinning, drone technologies, renewable energy and robotic process automation.

The BRICS Skills Challenge serves as a platform to collate and provide insights into how the BRICS partners continue to enable businesses by helping them respond to new and emerging skills. It will also enable the participants to help solve critical challenges using their technical skills.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 NEWS

Jewellex returns with a bang

Jewellex Africa 2023 concluded successfully on 4 September, with exhibitors and visitors expressing satisfaction at the business done during the event, as well as the venue and positive atmosphere.

THERE WAS A PALPABLE SENSE OF excitement in the air when Jewellex Africa 2023 opened its doors on 3 September. The premier trade fair of the SA jewellery industry returned after a three-year gap and took place over two days at the Wanderers Club, Johannesburg, where suppliers, wholesalers, manufacturers and service providers could sell to the trade.

The show opened with a fully-booked business breakfast on Sunday, sponsored by Rand Refinery, where Terance Nkosi, Executive Head of Technical Assurance and SHEQ, addressed guests on responsible sourcing.

Organised by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) for more than 40 years, this year’s event was held on a smaller scale, with all exhibition space sold out weeks prior to the show.

The SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator, in conjunction with Jewellex Africa, hosted its first jewellery Imbizo at the show and thanked all organisations that attended and industry leaders who took part in our panel discussions. Beneficiation was at the heart of the robust discussion and featured representatives from Rand

Refinery, Metal Concentrators (MetCon), Akapo Jewels and the SA Young Diamond Guild. The conversation explored the way industry is leveraging AGOA, the tax incentives associated with the SEZ and trading blocs like BRICS, unlocking the potential for industry collaboration in resolving salient issues of development of SMMEs and increasing efforts to curb illicit trade as a result of illegal mining.

The 53 exhibitors represented various industry sectors and showcased exciting new collections, technologies and services.

“The response to this year’s show has been overwhelming,” said Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO.

“All of us at the council express our sincere gratitude to our exhibitors for their support, as well as to every visitor.

“We also sincerely thank our loyal sponsors. Rand Refinery sponsored the Jewellex Business Breakfast in 2019 and we thank it once again for its continued patronage. We also want to

thank Brinks SA for sponsoring the lanyards for the show and MetCon for sponsoring the carrier bags which were handed out at the entrance and included SA Jewellery News’ September 2023 issue, as well as brochures and leaflets. Our sponsors have always been loyal supporters of the Jewellery Council and Jewellex Africa and have always had the industry’s interest and growth at heart.”

“Although smaller than previous years, Jewellex Africa 2023 has possibly been the most memorable and I want to thank all the organisers, exhibitors and patrons,” said Chris van Rensburg, JCSA Chairperson. “It was wonderful for everyone to reconnect and connect with industry friends and colleagues. I’m looking forward to next year’s event.”

“I visited Jewellex on the Sunday and was surprised at how full the venue and busy the event was when we arrived. The positive vibe was very encouraging,” said Surita du Toit of Surita du Toit Fine Gems.

“Everyone I spoke to had only positive things to say about this year’s show. I congratulate the JCSA and everyone else involved in arranging a fantastic showcase,” said exhibitor Andreas Salver of Andreas Salver Manufacturing Jewellers.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 14 JEWELLEX AFRICA
‘I was surprised at how full the venue and busy the event was when we arrived. The positive vibe was very encouraging.’

JEWELLER SHOWCASE

MetCon recently partnered with Austrianbased Invicon Chemical Solutions to introduce an innovative colour design approach to the SA jewellery industry. Invicon’s premium colour design systems, HyCeram, LuxArt and Luxon, offer a range of ceramic and acrylate solutions to bring coloured jewellery to life.

In celebrating the launch of this new and exclusive technology, MetCon partnered with seven prominent local jewellers to showcase their interpretation of colourful, wearable art at Jewellex Africa.

The seven designs featured the technology in a spectacular way, each with a unique story and inspiration behind it:

(1) Sands of Time (created with HyCeram)

Designed by Christelle Viljoen –Bellagio Jewellers

Inspired by a deep love of the ocean and the colours that surround it, this intricate pocket watch pendant evokes pure seaside bliss.

(2) Infinity Age (created with HyCeram)

Designed by Esther Boshoff –Beaudell Designs

The intertwining ring encapsulates the essence of an infinite cycle, exemplified through the boundless nature of love. The design presents a captivating fusion of creativity and innovation, embracing the dawn of a colour revolution.

(3) Makho-Sazane Imibala (created with HyCeram)

Designed by Bheki Ngema – BEN & Co Designs

This ring, with its bold design and elegant detail, represents a confident, spontaneous and modern woman. It is a reminder to always live life in full colour.

(4) Ocean Breeze (created with Luxon)

Designed by Janine Binneman –Janine Binneman Jewellery

Moving “scales” and unique colour effects emulate the waves, the wind and images of swimming creatures. The piece symbolises our lives – constantly moving, in a state of flux and enhanced by colour.

(5) Oscalie at the Races (created with Luxon)

Designed by Kirsten Goss – Kirsten Goss Jewellery

Sculptural and organic in form, this piece draws inspiration from the oceanic granite rock formations found around an island. The original piece was a simple gold nugget with no stones or detail. For this occasion, Goss and her team dressed the classic up for a day at the races.

(6) Afri-Talian (created with HyCeram)

Designed by Vijay Shah – Vijay Shah

Concepts

The inspiration for this design came from Murano and stained glass, renowned for its use in jewellery, glassware, ornaments and windows in Italy. The technique and colours reflect additional inspiration from African Ndebele prints, revealing a unique AfriTalian fusion. As an added surprise, these reversable earrings boast a different colour palette on each side.

(7) Vela (created with HyCeram and LuxArt)

Designed by Gina White – Jupiter’s Jungle

The emergence of a black Little Mermaid has ignited a powerful wave of inspiration, diversity and celebration and serves as a symbol of empowerment and affirmation for individuals of all ethnicities and backgrounds. It reminds us that dreams know no limitations and that every person has the right to see themselves reflected in the stories that inspire them.

Attendees at Jewellex had the opportunity to vote for their favourite piece and Shah’s Afri-Talian was named the winner. It will be developed into a threepiece collection and showcased at the Vicenzaoro boutique jewellery show in Italy in January 2024.

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Photography: Kevin Rudham

Seen at Jewellex

After a three-year gap, Jewellex Africa was once again bustling with visitors and exhibitors from the trade. The occasion gave industry friends and colleagues the opportunity to reconnect and connect.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 16 JEWELLEX AFRICA
Image courtesy Jewellery Afrika™
SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 17 JEWELLEX AFRICA

Seen at Jewellex

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Obsessed with gemstones

After being at the same premises for more than 15 years, Ajanta Afrika will be moving offices at the end of this month. The Cape Town-based gemstone supplier started out as a small business with its owner, Adine Lutz, visiting jewellers across southern Africa. Over the years, the brand has grown and Lutz still travels widely to buy and source its gemstones.

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COVER FEATURE

AJANTA AFRIKA FIRST OPENED ITS DOORS in 2006 because of its founder Adine Lutz’s love of travelling – and of stones. “I worked with specimens and rough for years before I started specialising in cut and polished gems,” she recalls.

Ajanta Afrika started out as a small business. Lutz visited jewellers across southern Africa with her gemstones, which she sourced and bought from all over the world. “I still travel to source and buy gemstones. I try to follow current trends when choosing them, while also looking for unusual pieces to complement the range of standard stock our jewellers always need,” she says.

Over the years the Ajanta Afrika team has grown significantly. “We have the most amazing ladies running our office in Cape Town. Between them, they have many years of experience in retail, wholesale and manufacturing. Their product knowledge and passion are incredible and they’re always friendly, with wonderful energy.”

Ajanta Afrika specialises in quality stones. Its range consists of its “bread-and-butter” items, as Lutz calls it, as well as a wide variety of special cuts, individual and unique pieces and rare beauties. Its offerings change regularly and Ajanta Afrika always aims to help its clients with special orders and cuts.

“We pride ourselves on friendly and efficient service. Whether you come into our office to select or ask us to do so on your behalf and ship it out, we do it all. We’re a member of the Jewellery Council of SA and our reputation in the industry is of the utmost

importance on every level. We only deal with the trade and always refer clients who want a jewellery piece to a reputable jeweller.

“Gemstones are cut in a process where rough crystal’s polished to perfectly enhance the colour, clarity and sparkle of the gem. Much consideration’s given to choosing the best shape and cut to bring the true magic of the gem to life. This is specifically the case with coloured stones, to capture the greater concentration of the shade for perfect appearance from the gem’s surface. Choosing the shape, the type of cut and the facettes used to display the absolute beauty of each stone is a true art,” says Lutz.

“From below the surface of the earth, the rough stone is transformed into a polished gem to be worn in the jewellery that adorns us, the symbols of our love and commitment to another. Gems have a strong connection to origin and through the ages, they’ve had meanings attributed to them, spiritually and as talismans, for protection and to attract good fortune. Gems are valued by their beauty, brilliance, intensity of colour, durability and rarity.”

Ajanta Afrika offers a unique and diverse collection of gems. “We have a stone for every occasion and our team is eager to help our clients find the perfect fit,” says Lutz.

Ajanta Afrika will be launching its new website this month which will showcase approximately 4 000 products, as well as price lists. Members of the trade simply need to register on the website to be approved as a wholesale buyer to access its array of products and information.

Gemstone jewellery manufacturing

“It’s important to note that special care needs to be taken when working with and setting certain gems, as some stones are more sensitive to heat and pressure in the jewellery-making process and there’s a risk of them breaking or being blemished if they aren’t handled correctly,” cautions Lutz. “Not all stones are safe in an ultrasonic cleaner or when heat is applied to the metal and touches the gem.

“The stones that shouldn’t be placed in an ultrasonic cleaner are ones that are heavily included, are very soft, are brittle or have been colour-treated or enhanced (eg opal, turquoise, pearls, amber, coral and lapis lazuli). We also specifically protect emeralds, tanzanites, black and other included diamonds from ultrasonic cleaners and heat.

“Great care should be taken when working with unconventional diamonds, such as black ones, because due to their natural porosity, they can become discoloured when placed in an ultrasonic cleaner, or develop a white blemish on the surface if heat’s applied too closely to them. The same goes for salt-and-pepper and other more included or mottled diamonds,” advises Lutz.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 21 COVER FEATURE

Transforming Africa’s manufacturing landscape

Africa is filled with potential, talent and untapped resources. Bountiful regional natural reserves have driven the population towards ingenuity and innovation. The creation of unique technologies and solutions is the hallmark of the African industry as a collective. Further to this, the continent is abundant in industrious inhabitants – and the fruits are ripe for the picking.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 22 MANUFACTURING

THERE IS NOW AN URGENT NEED FOR development and investment in the manufacturing industry across the continent to bring homegrown, advanced technology to the masses through commercialisation and optimisation. Most predictions show that the combined GDP of African countries is expected to reach US$29 trillion by the year 2050. The unique talents of the African people now require capital and infrastructure to realise their ideas and innovation on a far wider scale. The inclusion of the African manufacturing industry to the global trade and commerce platform is the need of the hour and this can only be achieved through sustained investment and development which must be brought to Africa from all over the world.

Enabling factors of an environment for advanced manufacturing include:

1. Energy

No industry can function on a limited energy reserve. The development of energy infrastructure across Africa, including the deployment of clean and sustainable energy solutions, is paramount to the progress of the manufacturing industry on the continent.

3. Skills development

The African population is a talented amalgamation of innovative individuals. A robust system of skills development and higher education must be established to increasingly attract students to pursue higher studies. According to the African Economic Outlook Organisation, 70% of Africa’s youth live on less than US$2 per day. Government subsidies and the issuance of student visas with attractive packages must be deployed to promote education and skills development across the continent.

4. Sustainable development

Often caught in the whirlwind of fast-paced development, leaders forget to consider the longevity and sustainability of mega-projects. It remains crucial that whatever investment flows into Africa is put into a sustainable model of development to further benefit future generations.

5. Diversification of the workforce

The African continent is home to a huge group of diverse ethnic groups. To place the continent’s manufacturing industry on an even footing with the rest of the world and bring it up to speed with the Fourth Industrial Revolution, inclusivity, diversification and nondiscrimination must be prioritised.

6. Partnerships and teamwork

Upliftment of the African manufacturing industry requires the public and private sectors to work hand in hand to drive the engine of

development in the same prolific direction, ie towards progress.

The case for the African manufacturing industry is extremely strong and requires centralised attention, as no industry can compare with the returns and benefits that come with this region’s manufacturing potential. A progressive outlook must be developed and adopted for the future of the continent that places the most focus on the industrial development of the continent.

SA will host its annual Manufacturing Indaba from 24-26 October 2023 at the Sandton Convention Centre, Johannesburg. The conference will assemble representatives from the public and private sectors. The event has evolved annually and has demonstrated invaluable initiatives in fostering significant business liaisons, forging gateways for manufacturers into new markets and exploring challenges and opportunities to promote innovation in manufacturing operations. All these factors pave the way for creating employment opportunities, as well as accelerating economic growth in sub-Saharan Africa.

2.

Trade tariffs

A review of the various trade and commerce tariffs in place across Africa is required to develop more investment-friendly incentives for the benefit of investors. We must learn from the past: during the 1980s, when the rest of the world was undergoing industrialisation, African tariffs were as high as 15%, on average, which created barriers to investment and commerce. Furthermore, protection of assets and capital must be ensured to drive investment into Africa for the development of the continent.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 23 MANUFACTURING

A jeweller’s latest must-haves

Smartpro Optimum I –three-in-one multi-tester

This three-in-one tester identifies natural diamonds, synthetic moissanite and synthetic diamonds (CVD, HPHT) via UV LED technology. Diamonds that are produced in a laboratory are on the rise. The differences from a natural stone cannot be detected with the naked eye or even a loupe. With the hightech devices from Smartpro, Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies offer gemmological testing equipment to distinguish between natural and laboratory-grown diamonds.

This tester is suitable for colourless and toned stones (D-M), 0,015-10ct, for almost all shapes and cuts. It features a 5 cm touch LCD display, is user-friendly for both right- and lefthanded individuals and can be used for loose or mounted stones.

Pneumatic engraving system

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The pneumatic engraver system gives each handpiece excellent range of power, with perfect control throughout an expanded range of impact speeds. It requires a (six-bar) compressor to operate.

Grinding machine

This graver sharpening system comes with three marked dials with colour-coding for angles and degrees, used with a fixture post for consistently shaping and sharpening gravers, and accommodates short and long gravers.

It features a dual angle dial for unlimited graver geometries,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 24 TOOLS & TECHNOLOGY
perfect control throughout an expanded range of impact speeds. Requires a (6 bar) compressor to operate.
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Articulated microscope CWTJS M0206

Grinding and polishing with Murua

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The CWTJS M0206 microscope system magnifies up to 45 times and includes a stereo zoom microscope body with moulded rubber eye pieces.

The system features 10 times widefield eyecups with wide-field eyepieces and a 0,5X objective lens, bilateral zoom controls and eye tubes that incline at 45°. It also features a lockable binocular body that rotates 360° and an adjustable headrest. The microscope stands with moveable and lockable arms.

All material is aluminium-painted with a total height of 500 mm. It includes a scope light.

Murua’s completely automated process offers grinding and polishing in one step with perfect finishing for gold, silver and brass. It takes the user from cast to mirrorfinishing polishing in just one step.

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The process, unlike mechanical ones, does not round edges and can penetrate in all dead zones. These attributes, along with the extraction performance, allows for the creation of new designs which were previously unfeasible.

Microscope system that magnifies up to 45X

• Inclues stereo zoom microscope body with moulded rubber eye pieces, • 10X wide-field eyecups with wide-field eyepieces and 0.5X objective lens,

Microwelding PUK 6

Twenty years of experience and passion for development are taking microwelding technology with the PUK 6 to a completely new level.

With its welding sequence now up to 65% faster and up to 3,3 welding spots per second, the new PUK 6 offers smoother, more homogeneous weld spots and excellent weld seam, even with variable weld spot gaps.

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The process, being fully automated, does not require any specialised labour. It also enables the industrialisation of pieces by removing the differences between them.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 25 TOOLS & TECHNOLOGY
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Monthly educational insert

Plastic deformation: How and why are most diamonds slightly distorted?

SPONSORED BY FEATURE ARTICLE
DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

Plastic deformation does not always lead to pink color, though. More commonly the result is brown color. Our understanding of brown color in diamond has improved in the last 20 years, in part due to the need to screen for decolorizing high-pressure, hightemperature (HPHT) treatment. Most mined diamonds have at least some amount of brown color due to plastic deformation, varying from dark to barely noticeable (Harris et al., 1979; Fisher, 2009; Dobrinets et al., 2013). In other instances, where the deformation is less intense, there may be no color imparted. Plastic deformation is one of the most prevalent features in natural diamond (Urusovskaya and Orlov, 1964; Harris et al., 1979). It is a natural phenomenon thought to occur some time after a diamond crystallizes, during its residence deep in Earth’s mantle and/or during its volcanic journey up to the surface.

What Is Plastic Deformation?

When stresses act on a solid, they can cause it to deform, or change shape, in one of three ways. There is elastic deformation, the kind of deformation that springs are designed for. When you remove the stress, it “springs” right back into its original shape. Brittle deformation is the kind of deformation at play when a water glass falls to the fl oor and shatters. The material fractures and breaks apart. Finally, there is plastic deformation, the kind of deformation associated with putty. The material deforms into a new shape but the change is lasting, even after removing the stress.

A familiar wire paper clip can serve to demonstrate deformation. If you bend it just slightly, it will deform elastically and return to its unbent shape. The elastic behavior is what allows a paper clip to hold onto a few sheets of paper. If you bend it beyond a certain point, the bend becomes permanent. This is plastic deformation. If you bend it back and forth a few times in one spot, the paper clip will break.

Often we see just one of these three mechanisms dominate, whether it is elastic, brittle, or plastic. Deformation behavior depends on many factors, such as the temperature, how much stress is applied, and, of course, what kind of material it is. For diamond, temperature is a key factor. If you tried to squeeze,

Editor’s note: Questions or topics of interest should be directed to Evan Smith (evan.smith@gia.edu).

GEMS & GEMOLOGY, VOL. 59, NO. 1, pp. 94–100.

© 2023 Gemological Institute of America

ISSUE 12
Figure 1. A 4.56 ct rough diamond with plastic deformation lines, highlighted in the sketch on the right. Deformation has occurred along a set of parallel internal slip planes. The planes appear as thin ridges on the diamond’s surface, exposed by natural dissolution of the surface by fl uids (i.e., resorption). In fact, the whole surface has been resorbed into this overall dodeca hedroid shape, decorated by elongate hillocks and plastic deformation lines, both fi ne features representing slight interruptions and imperfections in the diamond crystal lattice. Images by Evan M. Smith. ISSUE 8
500 µm Extreme hardness is one of the most well-known physical properties of diamond. It is diffi cult to imagine this same material bending or squishing like putty, but many natural diamonds have evidence of plastic deformation (fi gure 1). This process is even responsible for creating the value behind the most expensive diamonds sold at auction to date, by both per-carat price and total price. Specifi cally, the 11.15 ct Williamson Pink Star that sold for $57.7 million and the 59.6 ct Pink Star that sold for $71.2 million owe their Fancy Vivid pink colors to plastic deformation.

twist, or stretch a diamond at room temperature, the elastic deformation would be minimal. It is among the most rigid of all known materials. If it is subjected to high stresses, diamond tends to exhibit brittle deformation by cracking or chipping. But at higher temperatures, diamond begins to exhibit plastic deformation. Experiments show that signifi cant plastic deformation requires temperatures above approximately 900°C (DeVries, 1975; Weidner et al., 1994).

How Does Diamond Deform Plastically?

Many metal objects, including paper clips, deform plastically under conditions we can easily create and deform to a degree that is obvious. Our understanding of how crystalline solids deform is underpinned by engineering studies of metals, such as steel used for car frames and bridges. Aluminum foil is an example of a metal whose plastic deformation behavior can be felt as we shape and conform it in the kitchen. Although we cannot feel and observe diamond deformation in the same way, it involves the same basic principles at the atomic scale. During plastic deformation, atomic bonds are breaking and reforming along imperfections called dislocations. Plastic deformation in all crystalline solids, including diamond, is

accomplished by the creation and movement of dislocations (Nesse, 2017).

A dislocation is a linear (one-dimensional) disruption in the regular, repeating atomic structure. Figure 2 shows a simplified illustration of a dislocation in a crystal lattice. The dislocation is shown end-on, and the crystal lattice appears to have an extra half-plane of atoms, shown in orange (figure 2), which resembles a half sheet of paper inserted into an otherwise orderly paper stack. This is an edge dislocation, one of two major dislocation types. The second type is a screw dislocation, which has a different geometry.

Dislocations allow a crystal to deform plastically little by little as bonds break and re-form. The crystal as a whole remains fully intact, as only a small number of its bonds are broken at any given time. A dislocation is much like a wrinkle in a carpet (figure 2, bottom). A carpet could be moved by introducing a wrinkle and working it across the carpet. Most of the carpet remains in contact with the floor, but moving the wrinkle shifts the carpet slightly by breaking and reestablishing contact with the floor. Similarly, as dislocations move through a crystal, they

AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES ISSUE 8
Slip plane Carpet with a wrinkle Moving the wrinkle Figure 2. Left: Simplifi ed drawing of a diamond lattice with a dislocation. The red dotted circle shows the dislocation where a break in the regular order of the bonding structure results in an extra half-plane of carbon atoms, shown in orange. Stress on the crystal, indicated by black arrows, allows stepwise breaking and reforming of bonds that causes the dislocation and half-plane to move to the right along a slip plane (blue dashed line). Right: The dislocation has moved all the way to the right and out of the crystal so that it no longer exists. The dislocation and its movement can be thought of as a carpet with a wrinkle.

can allow atomic layers to move with respect to one another. Systematic movement of many dislocations can allow the whole crystal to deform plastically when subjected to stress.

Given that crystals are orderly structures, it should come as no surprise that dislocation movement is not random. The crystal structure constrains the dislocation movement into certain configurations and directions. In figure 2, dislocation movement or “slip” occurs along a plane (shown as a blue dashed line) that is parallel to the atomic layering. In diamond, slip occurs along octahedral or {111} planes, with the direction of slip within those planes being described by <110>, together giving a “slip system” described as {111} <110> (Evans and Wild, 1965). In other words, when diamond deforms, the deformation takes place along internal {111} planes, which is the same orientation as the faces of an octahedron-shaped diamond crystal. And the three lines defining the edges of that triangular octahedral face have a <110> orientation, which illustrates the three possible directions of slip within that octahedral plane. Slip planes will contain many dislocations, not just one, and deformation can be spread across multiple dislocations and multiple slip planes simultaneously.

What Does It Look Like?

Plastic deformation involves the creation and movement of dislocations through the diamond crystal lattice. Even though this is something that happens at the atomic scale, it does leave some visible signs. Figure 1 shows plastic deformation lines as a series of fine parallel ridges on a diamond’s surface. These lines trace out where the internal {111} slip planes meet the outer surface of the diamond. They stand out because

the diamond surface is resorbed, meaning it has been partially dissolved or etched by natural fluid or magma (Smit and

2020). The

planes do not etch at the same rate as neighboring regions of the crystal, resulting in surface relief and

Plastic deformation lines (figure 1) are the archetypal feature of plastically deformed diamonds (Harris et al., 2022). They are frequently but variably observed within some diamonds from most diamond deposits (Harris et al., 1979). However, only diamonds with resorbed surfaces can show deformation lines (Gurney, 1989). On primary octahedral crystal faces, evidence of plastic deformation can occasionally be observed as rows of trigons (figure 3). These negative trigons are small pits where the diamond has been etched away preferentially due to the presence of dislocations. Each row of trigons marks a separate {111} plane.

ISSUE 9
Figure 3. Left: A 0.31 ct pink octahedral diamond crystal with rows of negative trigons indicating that plastic deformation has taken place. Right: This close-up shows the horizontal rows of trigons marking the location of pink {111} glide planes approximately 1 μm thick. Photomicrographs by Evan M. Smith; fields of view 3.57 mm (left) and 0.71 mm (right). Figure 4. Two views of a large rough diamond with a pronounced mechanical twin plane. This 812 ct diamond, named the Constellation, has both freshly cleaved surfaces (left) and natural resorbed surfaces (right). Both views show a kink that wraps around the entire surface and defines an internal {111} twin plane where the crystal orientation is reversed with respect to the rest of the diamond. The diamond is 6.6 cm in its longest dimension. Photos by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao. Shirey, slip lines visible to the unaided eye.

In addition to dislocation movement on {111} planes, a related plastic deformation mechanism can lead to the crystal lattice being distorted into a totally new orientation. This abrupt and localized change in crystal lattice orientation is called mechanical twinning or deformation twinning. Unlike twins arising from growth, such as macles (Harris et al., 2022), mechanical twins in diamond are strictly from deformation (Titkov et al., 2012; Yu et al., 2012). This process is sometimes called glide, and the resulting mechanical twin planes are called glide planes (Nesse, 2017). In fact, the rows of trigons in figure 3 technically reveal glide planes, which in this case are associated with a pink color. The close-up (figure 3, right) shows that the trigons are connected by thin pink lines, actually pink lamellae viewed end-on, that correspond to glide planes. Pink lamellae like these are typically about 1 micrometer thick and may consist of multiple closely spaced mechan-ical twins (Gaillou et al., 2010).

A more dramatic example of mechanical twinning is shown in figure 4. A sharp step in surface topography runs all the way around this large rough diamond like a belt and perfectly traces out a {111} plane. This is a ~0.5 mm thick mechanical twin zone, where the diamond has been distorted and the lattice reoriented as a result of applied stress. Again, the new lattice orientation is not random, but rather a symmetrical mirror image so that the different lattice orientations match up neatly at the interface between the twinned region and the rest of the diamond on either side. Natural broken cleavage surfaces intersecting the mechanical twin (figure 4, left) demonstrate the change in crystal orientation by a corresponding change in the cleavage direction within the ~0.5 mm thick twinned zone.

Rough diamonds and their naturally sculpted surfaces can reveal a lot about their deformation history. Thankfully, since

ISSUE 9
Figure 6. Deep UV fluorescence images of deformation features. Left: Deformation lines in the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond, with two distinct sets of parallel lines that trace out octahedral or {111} slip planes. Right: A dislocation network pattern, appearing as a dark mesh against a bright background in the left portion of the diamond but as a bright mesh against a dark background toward the right. Images by Evan M. Smith; field of view is 4.66 mm. Figure 5. A natural type IIa diamond with evidence of plastic deformation. Examination with a microscope using crossed polarizing filters (left) reveals internal banding of dark/light and interference colors due to strain-related anomalous birefringence. In this diamond, the geometry of the banding correlates with the appearance of unusual whitish graining (right). The hazy whitish graining may be caused by plastic deformation. Photomicrographs by Evan M. Smith; field of view 4.79 mm.

plastic deformation happens internally, it is still possible to observe it once a diamond is cut and polished.

Polarizing filters are a simple yet powerful tool for this application, whether using a polariscope or a gem microscope (Renfro, 2015). Viewing a diamond using crossed polarizing filters is an easy way to see anomalous birefringence, which in natural diamond is typically the result of plastic deformation (figure 5). With this technique, a perfect, unstrained diamond should appear uniformly dark inside. Bending and twisting of the light as it passes through deformed (strained) regions of the diamond will result in a pattern of anomalous birefringence, such as banding, mottling, or cross-hatching.

Plastic deformation can also be observed using cathodoluminescence imaging or deep UV fluorescence imaging (e.g., DiamondView). These techniques are especially useful for examining polished diamond surfaces, where slip planes can appear as bright or dark lines (figure 6, left). Another deformation-related pattern sometimes revealed with these methods is dislocation networks (figure 6, right), which have a cellular appearance resembling mud cracks or a fine mesh (De Corte et al., 2006). Dislocation networks are thought to be the result of not just plastic deformation, but also a period of recovery at high temperatures that allows the dislocations to reorganize into a more stable configuration (Hanley et al., 1977). This process may be similar to hammering or working metals and then heating them up to relax and reconfigure the tangled dislocations that have been introduced. Sublithospheric or superdeep diamonds often have dislocation network patterns, and it has been suggested that their formation is promoted by low nitrogen content and/or high temperatures (Smith et al., 2019).

How Does Plastic Deformation Cause Color?

In 1999, General Electric and Lazare Kaplan International announced that HPHT processing could be applied as a commercial treatment to decolorize brown diamonds (Vagarali et al., 2004). This spurred research into the cause of brown color, which up until that point had been poorly understood. Visual indications of deformation had long been recognized to correlate with the presence of brown and to a lesser extent pink colors in diamond (Urusovskaya and Orlov, 1964; Harris et al., 1979). Internally, these colors often concentrate along slip planes, glide planes, or less distinctly along “graining,” all of which are deformation features. Theoretical modelling and experiments played important roles in linking brown color to dislocation movement and the creation of vacancies in the crystal structure (Avalos and Dannefaer, 2003; Hounsome et al., 2006; Barnes et al., 2007).

A vacancy is a missing atom in the crystal lattice. Vacancies can be created during plastic deformation when multiple dislocations interact or jogged dislocations move through the crystal (Leipner et al., 2000, 2003). At the high temperatures necessary for plastic behavior, these vacancies are mobile and tend to cluster into groups. These small groups of vacancies can absorb visible light and cause color. Vacancy clusters made up of about 40−60 vacancies are thought to be responsible for the common brown color in diamond (Avalos and Dannefaer, 2003; Hounsome et al., 2006; Barnes et al., 2007).

The cause of deformation-related pink is believed to be similar but involves a broad absorption band centered near 550 nm that is not fully understood (Gaillou et al., 2010). To be fair, not all brown and pink color is attributable to plastic deformation, but it is the leading cause (Harris et al., 1979; Fisher, 2009). An excellent review of brown and pink color in diamond was presented in Eaton-Magaña et al. (2018).

What Causes the Deformation?

It is plain to see that many natural diamonds bear evidence of plastic deformation, but it is not intuitively obvious why this should be the case. There must be some geological processes that lead to compression or shearing forces that occasionally deform diamonds. The geological process should be neither too gentle, because the relatively soft silicate host rocks should simply flow around the diamonds, nor too violent, which would break diamonds rather than plastically deform them. Several theories have been proposed.

Kimberlites and related eruptions that bring diamonds from the mantle up to the surface could have the power to deform diamonds. The magmatic journey is thought to be relatively violent, however, and it is clear that diamonds can break as they ascend within a kimberlite (Harris et al., 2022). This may mean that the conditions are too forceful and chaotic to develop significant plastic deformation. The early stages leading up to an eruption could also provide opportunities for diamond deformation.

Another possibility is that diamond deformation is related to the movements at the lithosphere-asthenosphere boundary, where the base of a rigid continental tectonic plate meets underlying weak, mobile rocks at a depth of approximately 200 km (Stachel et al., 2018). This would involve shearing between the lithosphere, the rigid host rock where most diamonds form, and the asthenosphere, the underlying warm flowing rock that is the topmost part of the convecting mantle.

Yet another theory suggests that deformation in some settings might be related to the movement of tectonic plates, specifically

ISSUE 9

oceanic lithosphere sinking into the mantle by the process of subduction (Bulanova et al., 2018). Subduction and the motion of tectonic plates could also play a role in the deformation of superdeep diamonds. The formation of these diamonds has been linked to deep-focus earthquakes (Shirey et al., 2021), which could involve localized shearing and faulting, potentially favorable conditions for plastic deformation of diamonds. The deformation histories recorded within natural diamond are valuable for studying Earth’s interior. In the future, it may be possible to constrain the temperature, pressure, and strain rate (i.e., the speed of deformation) required to produce the various features we observe. This information about deep mantle processes would help paint a clearer picture of how and why rocks deep inside the earth move around over geologic time.

Diamonds Bear Witness to Our Active Planet

can break as they ascend within a kimberlite (Harris et al., 2022). This may mean that the conditions are too forceful and chaotic to develop significant plastic deformation. The early stages leading up to an eruption could also provide opportunities for diamond deformation.

Another possibility is that diamond deformation is related to the movements at the lithosphere-asthenosphere boundary, where the base of a rigid continental tectonic plate meets underlying weak, mobile rocks at a depth of approximately 200 km (Stachel et al., 2018). This would involve shearing between the lithosphere, the rigid host rock where most diamonds form, and the asthenosphere, the underlying warm flowing rock that is the topmost part of the convecting mantle.

Yet another theory suggests that deformation in some settings might be related to the movement of tectonic plates, specifically oceanic lithosphere sinking into the mantle by the process of subduction (Bulanova et al., 2018). Subduction and the motion of tectonic plates could also play a role in the deformation of super-deep diamonds. The formation of these diamonds has been linked to deep-focus earthquakes (Shirey et al., 2021), which could involve localized shearing and faulting, potentially favorable conditions for plastic deformation of diamonds.

The deformation histories recorded within natural diamond are valuable for studying Earth’s interior. In the future, it may be possible to constrain the temperature, pressure, and strain rate (i.e., the speed of deformation) required to produce the various features we observe. This information about deep mantle processes would help paint a clearer picture of how and why rocks deep inside the earth move around over geologic time.

Diamonds Bear Witness to Our Active Planet

The fact that natural diamonds frequently contain evidence of deformation reminds us that Earth is not a static ball of rock. As far as we know, Earth is the only planet with active plate tectonics, meaning its outer layer is made up of multiple moving plates (Condie and Pease, 2008). The processes of mantle convection and subduction mean Earth’s interior is on the move as well. Measurable effects of these mechanisms exist in the chemical and isotopic composition of diamonds and their inclusions. But what makes a diamond’s plastic deformation features special is that they are a visible, tangible testament to rock and magma churning, shearing, and moving about inside our active planet.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Many thanks to Dr. Steven B. Shirey for discussion and suggestions that helped to improve this column.

The fact that natural diamonds frequently contain evidence of deformation reminds us that Earth is not a static ball of rock. As far as we know, Earth is the only planet with active plate tectonics, meaning its outer layer is made up of multiple moving plates (Condie and Pease, 2008). The processes of mantle convection and subduction mean Earth’s interior is on the move as well. Measurable effects of these mechanisms exist in the chemical and isotopic composition of diamonds and their inclusions. But what makes a diamond’s plastic deformation features special is that they are a visible, tangible testament to rock and magma churning, shearing, and moving about inside our active planet.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Many thanks to Dr. Steven B. Shirey for discussion and suggestions that helped to improve this column.

REFERENCES

REFERENCES

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Barnes R., Bangert U., Scott A. (2007) Investigating large vacancy clusters in type IIa diamond with electron energy loss spectroscopy (EELS). Physica Status Solidi (a), Vol. 204, No. 9, pp. 3065–3071, http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/pssa.200776323

Bulanova G.P., Speich L., Smith C.B., Gaillou E., Kohn S.C., Wibberley E., Chapman J.G., Howell D., Davy A.T. (2018) The unique nature of Argyle fancy diamonds: Internal structure, paragenesis, and reasons for color. In A.T. Davy et al., Eds., Geoscience and Exploration of the Argyle, Bunder, Diavik, and Murowa Diamond Deposits, Volume 20. Society of Economic Geologists, Littleton, Colorado, pp. 169–190, http://dx.doi.org/10.5382/SP.20.07

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Willems B. (2006) Overview of dislocation networks in natural type IIa diamonds. G&G, Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 122–123.

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Dobrinets I.A., Vins V.G., Zaitsev A.M. (2013) HPHT-Treated Diamonds: Diamonds Forever. Springer Series in Materials Science, Springer Berlin, Heidelberg, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3642-37490-6

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Fisher D. (2009) Brown diamonds and high pressure high temperature treatment. Lithos, Vol. 112, pp. 619–624, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.lithos.2009.03.005

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Gaillou E., Post J.E., Bassim N.D., Zaitsev A.M., Rose T., Fries M.D., Stroud R.M., Steele A., Butler J.E. (2010) Spectroscopic and microscopic characterizations of color lamellae in natural pink diamonds. Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 19, No. 10, pp. 1207–1220, http://dx.doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/ j.diamond.2010.06.015

Gurney J.J. (1989) Diamonds. In J. Ross, Ed., Kimberlites and Related Rocks: Proceedings of the Fourth International Kimberlite Conference, Volume 2. Geological Society of Australia, Sydney, Australia, pp. 935–965.

Hanley P.L., Kiflawi I., Lang A.R. (1977) On topographically identifiable sources of cathodoluminescence in natural diamonds. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences, Vol. 284, No. 1324, pp. 329–368, http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1977.0012

Harris J.W., Hawthorne J.B., Oosterveld M.M. (1979) Regional and local variations in the characteristics of diamonds from some southern African kimberlites. In H.O.A. Meyer and F.R. Boyd, Eds., Kimberlites, Diatremes, and Diamonds: Their Geology, Petrology, and Geochemistry, Vol. 15, American Geophysical Union, Washington, DC, pp. 27–41, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/SP015p0027

Harris J.W., Smit K.V., Fedortchouk Y., Moore M. (2022) Morphology of monocrystalline diamond and its inclusions. Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry, Vol. 88, No. 1, pp. 119–166, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/rmg.2022.88.02

Hounsome L.S., Jones R., Martineau P.M., Fisher D., Shaw M.J., Briddon P.R., Öberg S. (2006) Origin of brown coloration in diamond. Physical Review B, Vol. 73, No. 12, article no. 125203, http://dx.doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevB.73.125203

Leipner H.S., Hübner C.G., Staab T.E.M., Haugk M., Sieck A., Krause-Rehberg R., Frauenheim T. (2000) Vacancy clusters in plastically deformed semiconductors. Journal of Physics: Condensed Matter, Vol. 12, No. 49, pp. 10071–10078, http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/0953-8984/12/49/307

Leipner H.S., Mikhnovich Jr. V.V., Bondarenko. V., Wang Z., Gu H., Krause-Rehberg R., Demenet J.L., Rabier J. (2003) Positron annihilation of defects in silicon deformed at different temperatures. Physica B: Condensed Matter, Vol. 340-342, pp. 617–621, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.physb.2003.09.119

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Shirey S.B., Wagner L.S., Walter M.J., Pearson D.G., van Keken P.E. (2021) Slab transport of fluids to deep focus earthquake depths—Thermal modeling constraints and evidence from diamonds. AGU Advances, Vol. 2, No. 2, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2020AV000304

Smit K.V., Shirey S.B. (2020) Diamonds are not forever! Diamond dissolution. G&G, Vol. 56, No. 1, pp. 148–155.

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ISSUE 9 100 DIAMOND REFLECTIONS GEMS & GEMOLOGY SPRING 2023
gia.edu/gems-gemology For online access to all issues of GEMS & GEMOLOGY from 1934 to the present, visit:

Buffalo coin launched to complete Big 5 Series II

The South African Mint Company, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, has announced the availability of the final offering in the popular Big 5 Series II coin range, featuring the buffalo.

“This magnificent coin provides a fitting culmination of the Big 5 Series II range,” says Honey Mamabolo, MD of the SA Mint. “Series II made its mark in 2021 with a significant design refresh, while maintaining the high craftsmanship associated with the Big 5 series – and the buffalo coin exemplifies this exceptional design aesthetic.”

The buffalo, also known as the warrior, is regarded as a symbol of both fertility and aggression. Its impact is evident through the transformative effect this huge animal has on the African environment. Large herds of buffalo not only help to create the African savannah as they shorten the long grasses by grazing and open up pathways, but are also associated with the dense thickets they rely on to elude predators. This combination of craftiness and brute power ensures the buffalo’s inclusion in the Big 5.

The SA Mint’s Big 5 Series II was launched in 2021, following the successful introduction of the award-winning Series I in 2019. Series II mirrors the reverse design seen on Series I, in which two halves of the featured animal’s face are shown, forming a full face only when two or more coins are

The obverse highlights a striking new rendition of the buffalo’s head, facing to the right with its head and horn boss prominent. By contrast, in Series I the animal faces the left and a part of its powerful body can be seen. The obverse also includes the South African coat-of-arms, indicating the coin’s status as legal tender.

Series II coins, like those of Series I, are available in gold, platinum and silver.

The platinum offering consists of a single 1 oz coin, while the silver range comprises a 1 oz Brilliant Uncirculated (BU) coin, a 1 oz double capsule set containing two silver proof coins and a special Big 5 and Krugerrand buffalo privy mark combination set.

The gold range includes a 1oz gold proof, a ¼ oz gold proof and a ¼ oz gold proof double capsule set containing two identical gold proof coins. The

gold coins are complemented by a Big 5 and Krugerrand buffalo privy mark combination set consisting of a 1 oz gold proof Big 5 coin and a 1 oz gold proof Krugerrand coin.

The SA Mint is the continent’s leading manufacturer of legal coin tender, as well as commemorative and rare collectable coins. With over 130 years’ experience in supplying symbols of value to the African and global markets, it prides itself on delivering products that represent its commitment to uniquely African designs and supreme craftsmanship. “We collaborate closely with our customers to develop distinct and durable monetary products that capture and preserve the heritage and pride of our nation,” says Mamabolo.

The SA Mint is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, established in accordance with the SARB Act 90 of 1989, as amended.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 35 MEMORABLE COINS
'Series II made its mark in 2021 with a significant design refresh, while maintaining the high craftsmanship associated with the Big 5 series – and the buffalo coin exemplifies this exceptional design aesthetic.'

Understanding the future power of an individual’s digital identity

The way we perceive business flourishing is undergoing a paradigm shift as digital identity and consumer consent redefine the dynamics of transactions. Shanaaz

Trethewey, Chief Operating Officer for Comcorp SA, a leading software innovator and authentication technology specialist, emphasises the pivotal role of individuals’ digital identity in unlocking this transformative potential.

36 BUSINESS
MANAGEMENT
SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023

IN SA, WHERE AN ESTIMATED 38 MILLION people are above the age of 18, a significant proportion of the population possesses the ability to transact as adults. However, only a fraction of them (one in six) can provide verifiable income through a payslip, leading to increased risk and the need for extensive checks and balances in transactions.

Astonishingly, the country processes approximately 4 million credit applications each month, resulting in 48 million applications annually that invariably require proof of identity, often involving multiple verification checks during the transaction process. This number does not even account for verifications at healthcare facilities, educational institutions and insurance claims, among others.

An individual’s identity journey has evolved considerably over time. In the 1950s, manual registers, handshakes and a paper form were all an agreement or transaction required, before being replaced by ID books and smartcards that stored various personal information on a bank card.

“The advent of fingerprint revolution and biometric technology today has shifted the focus to appreciating the uniqueness of individuals. Digital identity is no longer just a tool; it represents a vision of seamless interaction and integration in all sectors of our economy, but especially finance,” says Trethewey. Digital inclusion and the role of digital identity in enabling frictionless transactions is another crucial factor in unlocking an individual’s potential for economic engagement. Platforms that facilitate ease of funds exchange, internationally, exemplify the growing union between technology and financial activities.

“Companies across the globe are already leveraging open banking capabilities to provide digital identity verification services, bypassing traditional waiting periods. In emerging economies, the speed and efficiency of digital payment platforms like WhatsApp Pay in India and Brazil have facilitated the flow of money, reducing reliance on cash transactions and contributing to the formalisation of economies,” she adds.

As always, the concept of consent within the realm of digital identity holds immense significance. Trethewey emphasises the need for critical analysis of what consent entails and the opportunity it presents to revolutionise the way individuals interact with the world and access products and services.

Exploring how the future may look

As artificial intelligence (AI) proliferates and identity fraud

becomes a pressing concern, the need for robust tools to ensure undeniable identity verification will only grow. Trethewey urges businesses to embrace the evolving landscape and adopt sophisticated solutions to combat identity fraud, while harnessing the potential of AI.

She suggests these three powerful principles to guide businesses in this transformative era:

1. Returning to the first principle

This is vital, as adding layers to legacy systems may not address the underlying challenges effectively. The business community needs clarity on what it needs to achieve. Taking a step back is key to understanding what served us well in the past, but might no longer be doing so.

2. Seeing the bigger picture

Adopting a holistic approach and viewing organisations beyond silos is crucial for unlocking a broader range of commercial opportunities. Things like eliminating duplication within a singular organisation can only be done if we take a step back and take stock.

3. Competitive collaboration

This fosters the leveraging of technical skills and business strengths, amplifying market reach and unlocking true market potential. A culture of working together, rather than solely competing against each other, encourages the joint pursuit of mutually beneficial opportunities.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 37 BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

Interesting facts

 Peanut butter contains quite a lot of carbon. As diamonds are crystals made of pure carbon, many carbon-rich materials, like peanut butter, can be transformed into diamonds under the right conditions. However, diamonds made from peanut butter are generally very small. The largest produced to date are no bigger than sesame seeds.

 Later this year, the UK Royal Mint is opening a new multi-million-pound factory which will be able to process 90 tons of circuit boards per week once fully operational, recovering hundreds of kilograms of gold every year.

 The biggest emerald was turned into a jar in Vienna. The jar weighs 2 860ct and its shape is uneven, so it can show off the gem´s qualities. Experts say that it was Emperor Ferdinand III´s jar for ointments.

 The first European reference to platinum was in 1557 in the writings of Italian humanist Julius Caesar Scaliger. He described an unknown noble metal found in Mexico that could not melt.

 Also referred to a “navettes” (little ships), marquise diamonds are cut in a boat-like shape.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 38
DID YOU KNOW?
Image courtesy Carl Lender, Wikkicommons

DID YOU KNOW?

 A Victorian-style silver snake bangle Freddie Mercury wore with an ivory satin catsuit in the Bohemian Rhapsody video has sold for the highest price ever paid for a piece of jewellery owned by a rock star. The bracelet went for £698,500 ($881 000) –100 times its estimated low price.

 Rolex does not give away watches. Not to anyone. Not even to Hollywood's stars and starlets for well-placed promotional purposes. If a celebrity is seen walking around with a Rolex on their wrist, someone will have paid for it.

 The USA banned the import of Krugerrands in 1985. Many investors misunderstood this ban and thought that Krugerrands were illegal to own in the USA. As a result, premiums on them fell below those of other competing bullion coins during that period.

 In 2008, NASA’s Mars Reconnaissance Orbiter took photographs of the surface of that planet. The photographs contained images of hydrated materials that scientists concluded were opals. Since opals have water in them, this suggests that water existed on the surface of Mars.

 Changing the date on your watch between 9pm and 3am could damage its movement. If you want to be sure, change the date at around 5am or 5pm.

 Pink tourmaline is the modern October birthstone. The last Empress of the Chi’ing Dynasty of China was a huge admirer of the gemstone. She even bought enormous quantities of it from the USA, mostly of the pink variety. After her death, her body was laid to rest on a tourmaline pillow as a symbol of her eternal love for this gem.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 39
Some cyclists use silver-embedded fabrics during races to control inflammation and promote healing.

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GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za

Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

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BEZALEL ATELIER

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awie@bezalelatelier.com

martie@bezalelatelier.com

071-899-0205 / 082-923-6546

BRYTE INSURANCE COMPANY LIMIT

www.brytesa.com

natasha.maroun@brytesa.com

robyn.lambert@brytesa.com

(011) 370-9111

(021) 419-2000

www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today. GIA.edu

(021) 551-2066 / (011) 334-6263 (041) 365-1890 / (031) 303-5402

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA) www.gia.edu gia ed/contact us +1-760-603-4000 – global hq

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za

(012) 035 0260

SIYENZA EVENTS www.siyenza.za.com info@siyenza.za.com

011 463 9184

SM WATCH www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com

(012) 326-5996

JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA) Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za lornal@jewelleyr.org.za

(011) 484-5528

METAL CONCENTRATORS www.metcon.co.za info@metcon.co.za

(012) 000-4440

NAMAQUA MOISSANITE www.namaquamoissanite.com sales@nammoissanite.com 081-873-6456

THE TANZANITE COMPANY www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za 082-601-3621 / 083-231-8919

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - OCTOBER 2023 44 JEWELLEX ISSUE 2023
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Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Refiners, Wholesalers and Service Members. For further information on membership benefits visit: www.jewellery.org.za Become a Member Today! Inquiries: Darryl van der Linde on (011) 484 5528 or darrylv@jewellery.org.za

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