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Preserving the art of handwriting Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa 2015 IIJS and IIJW the jewels in the Indian crown
DE BEERS BENEFICIATING DIAMONDS TO BE THE SHINING LIGHTS OF NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA AND SOUTH AFRICA
www.debeersgroup.com
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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Linda Stock
c ntents 16. INTERNATIONAL FAIR
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7. NEWS
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• De Beers unveils winners of Shining Light Awards
Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za
IIJS and IIJW – the jewels in the Indian crown
• Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa 2015 • GIA introduces Diamond Focus Report • WFDB appoints Louise Prior as Executive Director
21. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2015 Avi Keren, MD of Fossil Accessories South Africa, sees Jewellex Africa as the ideal opportunity for social interaction, as well as doing business
• Rio Tinto’s “Diamonds With a Story” portal opens • Pandora introduces a new, embellished bracelet
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22. BRAND MANAGEMENT
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
• B-Rocket: the dynamic duo that is bucking the trend
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed
• Bestiary of diamond and ruby antique brooches
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• Son of Gears Shams
Printing: Colors
• Fabergé presents Summer in Provençe
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• Preserving the art of handwriting
15. BRAND HISTORY Jean Richard: ahead of his time
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
28. LITTLE GEMS The sunshine colour
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The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
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Preserving the art of handwriting Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa 2015 IIJS and IIJW the jewels in the Indian crown
DE BEERS BENEFICIATING DIAMONDS TO BE THE SHINING LIGHTS OF NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA AND SOUTH AFRICA
www.debeersgroup.com
On the cover
Launched 19 years ago by then head of the DTC South Africa Des Cavanagh and Nine Dots
consultant Claire Minnit, the Shining Light Awards once again attracted the finest new designer talent from Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Lilja Pesanka Hastie, from Tshwane University of Technology, was awarded this year’s overall winner and received “The Forevermark Promise Award” and a scholarship with the De Beers Forevermark design team in Milan, Italy. Senior Vice President of DBSSSA Mpumi Zikalala endorsed the purpose to “identify designers with commercial acumen to match their creative flair.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
WHAT’S ON OUR SHELF? All your favourite reads under one roof. SAJN
jewellery BIZ-NEWS
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Diamonds and jewellery: the year that was and looking ahead The latest trends in men’s jewellery
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Early edition
Infinitely innovative Silplat have launched a new general range of pieces. Catering for both the lower- and upper market, Silplat specialise in gold and platinum. “We are particularly proud of our range of wedding bands, which have been manufactured for obvious aesthetic value, while being more comfortable to wear than in the past,” says the company. Visit them at Stand No. A4.
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A helping hand
Italian design inspired by you
OGI Systems (Stand No. G23) boasts the first system in the world that can do full mapping of any stone. Its product range includes the OGIREXV50 which enables the user to measure and detect inclusions in all kinds of stones. OGI Systems also has the software to go with this technology. The software has advanced algorithms which enables the user to optimise profit, while increasing production.
Bacio (pronounced ba-cho), a new jewellery collection made up from individual Italian beads, charms and adornments can be built up over time and mixed in a vast number of ways to create bracelets and necklaces that express personal style – with a touch of Italian flair. The individual pieces are made from 925 silver, swarovski crystal, Murano glass and hand-enamelled pottery. Manufactured and designed in Italy, the Bacio concept has already taken off in Europe and Australia and is sure to capture the imagination of South African women too. Beads can be added one by one, and range from relatively inexpensive silver charms to ornate swarovski crystals. Bacio also has a children’s range. Visit Gemini Gold at Stand No.C6, C8 and C10 to view this collection.
Uplifting communities Kgabane (Stand No. I4) is an initiative of the Mintek Small Scale Mining and Beneficiation Division. On display are various pieces including necklaces, cufflinks and rings. This year they are also showcasing jewellery made from recycled glass bottles, which are
incorporated in silver. All items come from community projects as part of job creation and poverty eradication. The facilitators provide a chosen community with business training, as well as equipment and training for the manufacture of the jewellery.
Refining the trade UNIQUE SOLDERING TECHNIQUES FROM ROMA GOLD
For their tenth Jewellex appearance, Roma Gold (Stand No. D10 and D12) are showcasing a large range of special cast pieces, including a range combing silver and gold – using separate casts. This offers the potential buyer the best of both worlds, while keeping affordability in mind. Other items on display include a flower theme range of jewellery.
JYOTI SHOWS NEW DESIGNS Jyoti Gems India (Stand No. B4) deals mainly in tanzanite stones. On display at this year’s Jewellex are new concept jewellery designs incorporating black
diamonds and pearls. Jyoti is one of the biggest tanzanite wholesalers worldwide and delivers tanzanite stones in all shapes and sizes.
This year’s Jewellex is the fi rst for AU Traders and Refi ners (Stand No. A1 and H1). The company is involved in the refi ning of all precious metals. It also supplies alloys, does soldering and assaying as well as fi ling. According to Barend Nortjé, AU Traders and Refi ners’ refi ned metals can be supplied to customers in various forms, including bars and granules. Electro-plating can also be done. All refi ning is done chemically using the most up-todate technology. The company was awarded the Top Company Media Award for being one of the Top 300 performing companies in SA in 2007.
Anglo Platinum proudly supports creative design and the local jewellery industry.
Silver passion Jewellex Africa 2009 marks Kimmy B’s (Stand No. E14) third appearance. With 19 years of experience the company deals mainly in imported sterling silver. It has 925 collections, carefully coordinated ranges and eye-catching pieces which can be complimented with optional pieces. Kimmy B sources top quality diamonds, tanzanites and sapphires.
www.angloplatinum.co.za
Tel: (011) 334-2050 Cell: 082 821 2857 jacqui@autraders.co.za
SEE US AT STAND NO: H1 AND A1
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For more information about our products or if you would like to advertise in any of our publications contact LINDA STOCK (adsales@isikhova.co.za) * SAJN and all other publications are published by Isikhova Publishing and Communications CC T: 011 883 4627 | F: 011 783 2677 | www.isikhova.co.za
GIA INTRODUCES DIAMOND FOCUS REPORT The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is now offering the GIA Diamond Focus Report, a new low-cost digital report for natural, D-Z colour, round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0,15-0,29ct. The information included in the report – carat weight, colour, clarity and cut grades, polish and symmetry grades, with a fluorescence description – comes from the same standards and processes used for all other GIA report services. Laser inscription of the GIA report number is also included. The results provided in a Diamond Focus Report are available through GIA’s online report check (it does not issue a printed report with this service). “Recent innovations and developments in technology allow us to offer this reduced-fee
service for smaller diamonds,” says Tom Moses, Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory & Research Officer for GIA. “Diamond Focus Report will help address consumer and industry demand for rigorous and independent examination of smaller diamonds.” The report service is US$20 for diamonds from 0,15-0,22ct and US$22 for diamonds from 0,23-0,29ct. GIA’s laboratories in Bangkok, Carlsbad, Hong Kong, Mumbai, New York and Tokyo are now offering the service. Other locations will offer the report in the near future. Servicing for the Diamond Focus Report will be done through My Laboratory or web services. Those interested in a My GIA Laboratory account or the web services can contact a client service representative for assistance.
WFDB APPOINTS LOUISE PRIOR AS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
was responsible for the strategic development, implementation and management of global sightholder services. “Our bourses around the world join me in welcoming Louise to our global family.” “I’m honoured to be given this unique opportunity to make a real contribution to the continued success of the WFDB, which represents the vast majority of members of the diamond business across the globe via its 30 affiliated exchanges,” says Prior. “With the ever-increasing challenges faced at every stage of the diamond pipeline, I’m excited about supporting the board in driving forward the WFDB’s initiatives and working closely with major industry players to ensure the continued success of the WFDB and its important work.”
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has announced that Louise Prior, formerly a Senior Executive at De Beers, has joined the WFDB as its Executive Director. This pivotal role reflects the WFDB’s desire to enhance further its pre-eminent position in the modern diamond industry. “Louise is a natural choice for this important position,” says WFDB President Ernie Blom. “She’s a highly respected and well-known diamond industry professional with vast experience. During her many years with De Beers, she
HOLLYWOOD STAR STEVEN SEAGAL MAY INVEST IN RUSSIAN DIAMOND MINES: ALROSA Hollywood actor and martial arts film star Steven Seagal recently visited Alrosa’s operations in Russia’s Yakutia region as part of a trip to the region. Contrary to a report by Russia’s Interfax news agency, Seagal is not an analyst for USA-based asset management fund Legg Mason, which – as of 30 June 2015 – managed a portfolio of investments worth US$699 billion, according to the company. A spokesperson for the investment fund confirmed via e-mail to Rapaport News that the actor did not visit the major diamond miner on behalf of Legg Mason. Nevertheless, an Alrosa spokesperson did
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
confirm to Rapaport News that Seagal was on a business trip in the region and that he had previously expressed interest in investing in Russian diamond mines. The spokesperson noted that Seagal had already become familiar with Alrosa’s business activities “some time ago”. Seagal also visited the Siberian village of Arilah, where he partook of the local food, hospitality and rituals, according to Russian-based news outlet RT. “I am a Russian Mongol,” Seagal told a RT television crew who interviewed him following an event at the village. He explained that his paternal grandfather was an ethnic Mongol from Russia. – Rapaport
DIAMOND PAVILION AT JEWELLEX AFRICA 2015 De Beers will be sponsoring the Diamond Pavilion at this year’s Jewellex Africa. The group’s offerings will include the De Beers Shining Light Awards, a Forevermark exhibit and an area for diamond auctions. The Jewellex Committee has invited diamantaires, wholesalers and dealers to secure their stands in the pavilion. Stands measuring
4 m2 and 6 m2 will be offered, as well as larger ones of 9 m2, 12 m2, 15 m2 and 18 m2. Those of 4 m2 and 6 m2 will come as a package deal. Larger spaces can also be made available. For an application to exhibit, a copy of the floor plan or any other information, contact Bavina Vassan on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: bavinav@jewellery.org.za.
DE BEERS UNVEILS WINNERS OF SHINING LIGHT AWARDS
mitment of two people. All this is symbolised in the ring design and is carried through the entire collection.” Kevin Goodrem, Vice-President of Beneficiation at De Beers Global Sightholder Sales, says: “This opportunity will undoubtedly enhance Lilja’s skills and talent in jewellery design. We couldn’t be prouder of what she’s achieved. I think everyone will agree that she’s a very deserving winner among one of the strongest top 12 teams we’ve ever encountered.” Louise Kriek and Madeli Viljoen, both also from the Tshwane University of Technology, received the Cursor Sursum Award as runnersup. They will be offered three-month training scholarships in Milan. Julius Brettschneider from Adrian & Meyer Jewellers in Windhoek, Namibia, Mpho Mokgatle from the Oodi College of Applied Arts & Technology in Gaborone, Botswana and Omphile Sibanda, from the Tshwane University of Technology, were all given the Shining Light Development Award. All 12 finalists walked away with the De Beers 2015 Shining Light Recognition Award and each producer country finalist also received a two-year scholarship with the Keith White School of Jewellery Design & Manufacturing in SA, set to catapult them straight into a highprofile career in the jewellery industry. “We’re thrilled with all the nominees of this year’s Shining Light Awards,” says Goodrem. “They’ve truly taken the challenge at hand and made it their own, while at the same time making the ethos of ‘The Promise’ the golden thread that can clearly be seen running through all their masterfully designed pieces of jewellery. “From De Beers’ and our partners’ side, the greatest reward has been knowing that we’ve invested in diverse greatness, upskilling and significantly developing the careers of 12 unique individuals, which will in turn be sown back into their respective countries.” A wide variety of De Beers’ stakeholders, including key partners and shareholders, as well as leading figures from the mining industry, joined the finalists, with their friends and families, at the ceremony.
The winners of the 18th Shining Light Awards were announced in a spectacular grand finale held in the Circa Gallery in Johannesburg. The prestigious jewellery design competition, sponsored by De Beers, showcases young talent from Botswana, Namibia and SA. The competition is open to current students, as well as those who have completed their studies at a tertiary institution in the past two years. Philippe Mellier, Chief Executive of the De Beers Group, told the finalists: “You truly are the shining lights of southern Africa and I look forward to watching you light up the diamond industry in years to come. “Since the modern diamond jewellery designer needs a head for business, just as much as an artistic eye and a skilled hand, this year’s awards have sought to identify those with the commercial acumen to match their creative flair.” This year, entrants designed a commercial collection including a ring, a bracelet, a pendant and earrings under the theme, “The Promise”. It’s one which resonates deeply with De Beers and is aligned to its Forevermark promise – that all the company’s diamonds are beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced. Designs had to be submitted in 2D or 3D technical drawings. The overall winner was Lilja Desanka Hastie, from the Tshwane University of Technology in Pretoria, who received the highest accolade in the form of the Forevermark Promise Award. Hastie now has the offer of a year’s training scholarship with the De Beers Group’s Forevermark design team in Milan, Italy. “My collection was inspired by the romance of marriage and the promise that binds the union of true love – that their hearts will forever be intertwined,” says Hastie. “The twisted shank symbolises two lives intertwined and bound by a diamond infinity band. The band serves as a bezel for the hero diamond, while the ultimate meaning of the diamond is eternity and love bonding the com-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
(Above): The South African Diamond Manufacturers’ Association has elected the following members onto the executive committee for the ensuing year: P Mbetse (Chairman), I Kaplan (Vice-Chairman), L Hadebe, M Katz, P Kwok, L Pule, O Temkin, C Kramer and J Gaddie.
RIO TINTO’S “DIAMONDS WITH A STORY” PORTAL OPENS Rio Tinto has launched an online portal for its “Diamonds With a Story” initiative, featuring information intended to help manufacturers, designers and retailers stay on top of marketplace trends. The portal, www.diamondswithastory.com, provides information and videos on consumer insights, design inspiration, products and mar-
keting. Users can also search through Rio Tinto’s supplier network. The mission behind “Diamonds With a Story” is to emphasise an emotional connection to diamonds over commoditisation, while supporting Rio Tinto’s clients with inspiring collections and sales tools that excite consumers about diamond fashion jewellery. – Rapaport
PANDORA INTRODUCES A NEW, EMBELLISHED BRACELET The signature sterling silver bracelet is reworked in the latest Pandora jewellery collection. Pandora’s classic charm bracelet is updated with a sparkling pavé barrel clasp. Reflecting the season’s embellishment trend, the new bracelet profiles craftsmanship that sparkles with style and substance. Light and flexible, this hand-finished item is crafted from sterling silver. The new barrel clasp lends a more graphic look to the design, while the addition of shimmering cubic zirconia stones provides visual interest, making it
the perfect choice for those wanting a touch of on-trend shine for their look. The bracelet is ideal for stacking or wearing alone. World-renowned for its high quality and hand-finished jewellery at affordable prices, Pandora designs, manufactures and markets modern jewellery made from genuine materials. The brand’s unique and detailed designs, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, are sold in more than 90 countries across six continents through approximately 9 600 points of sale, including more than 1 400 concept stores.
DMIA ELECTS NEW EXECUTIVE BOARD AND BOARD OF DIRECTORS The membership of the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association of America (DMIA) held its second Annual General Meeting of the year in August, electing a new executive board and board of directors. The incumbent President, Ronnie van der Linden, was re-elected. He is joined on the executive board by Vice-Presidents Saul Goldberg, Eli Haas, Fred Knobloch, Sheldon Kwiat and Matthew Schamroth. Stuart Samuels was elec-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
ted as Secretary and Parag Shah as Treasurer. The following members were elected for positions on the DMIA’s board of directors: Steven Eisen, Avrum Fastag, Marvin Finker, Ishaia Gol, Suzette Gomes, Manny Gordon, Stan Grossbard, Hertz Hasenfeld, Tom Heyman, Todd Ingwer, Danny Kaleko, Moishe Klein, Daniel Klugman, Melissa Kulhanjian, Jerry Menkin, Alan Rehs, Jack Reiss, Charles Rosario, Michael Steinmetz and Michael Verstandig.
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SUMMER EDITION OF INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND WEEK TO HOST MORE THAN 350 BUYERS FROM 15 COUNTRIES The Summer Edition of the International Diamond Week in Israel (IDWI), which will take place at the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) at the beginning of this month, will host more than 350 buyers from some 15 countries. “We are encouraged by the surge in registration for the event, at a time of uncertainty in the global diamond industry and trade,” said Moti Fluk, the IDE Treasurer, who also heads the IDWI organising committee. “This bodes well for the event. Diamantaires always take the optimistic view and we are convinced that this edition of our unique ‘inter-bourse’ diamond trading festival will turn out to be a success.” “The International Diamond Week project is now in its third year,” Israel Diamond Exchange President Shmuel Schnitzer noted. “It has reinvigorated traffic on the trading floor, which is the largest and most active such hall in the world. At the end of the month, it will once again be a vibrant hub of bourse members and many hundreds of visitors who will be interacting, viewing a huge selection of diamonds, negotiating and bargaining. And, most importantly, the floor will be an even playing field where small manufacturers and traders will be
RIO TINTO DIAMOND REVENUE DOWN 23% TO US$331 MILLION IN 1H Rio Tinto reported mixed results for its diamond operations in its first half, with the effect of softening demand for rough diamonds offset by a strengthening dollar. Diamond operations’ revenue slumped 23% year on year to US$331 million during the first half that ended on 30 June 2015, its parent company reported. However, net underlying earnings surged 72% to US$31 million, as local currencies weakened against the dollar, the currency in which rough diamonds are traded. Net underlying earnings denote an operational unit’s contribution to the overall group’s net earnings.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
on an equal footing with the biggest players in the industry, creating opportunities for all to do good business.” Delegations will be arriving from Belgium, New York, Mumbai and Istanbul. The International Diamond Week in Israel is organised by the Israel Diamond Exchange, in close co-operation with the Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC), the Antwerp Diamond Bourse (Beurs voor Diamanthandel), and, for the first time, also by the Bharat Diamond Bourse. All exchanges will be represented by delegations of their members on the IDE trading floor.
Rio Tinto had three operating diamond mines during the period: the fully-owned Argyle mine in Australia, the 60%-owned Diavik mine in Canada and the 77,8%-owned Murowa mine in Zimbabwe. Rio Tinto sold its 77,8% interest in Murowa on 26 June 2015, after which it no longer contributed to the group’s reported revenue and production figures. The company attributed the drop in revenue to lower rough diamond prices driven by lower demand from India and China, high rough and polished diamond inventory among diamond manufacturers and retailers, and very low profit margins among diamond polishers and cutters. Rio Tinto reported in July that its diamond production increased 18% to 8,851 million carats during the first half. In its latest financial statement, Rio Tinto’s management reiterated that it intended to increase its rough diamond production by 45% to 20 million carats in 2015. Rio Tinto Diamonds outperformed the larger Rio Tinto group during the first six months of the period, which saw consolidated revenue decline 26% to US$18 billion and underlying earnings slump 43% to US$2,9 billion. Net earnings plummeted 82% to US$806 million during the period. – Rapaport
ADVERTORIAL
SAJN talks to Johan Bezuidenhout, Managing Director of Richline SA. RICHLINE GROUP INC, A WHOLLYowned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway Inc since 2007, is the USA’s foremost, financially strong jewellery manufacturer, distributor and marketer. The group’s slogan – “One vision, one goal, one team” – denotes the establishment of an integrated corporate branding, manufacturing and distribution strategy. The Richline Group is comprised of four independent strategic business units – Leach Garner, Richline Brands, Rio Grande and Inverness Corporation – and is the corporate platform that provides financial, operational and marketing support to each of them. Its renowned consumer brands include Honora, Charmed Memories, EternaGold and numerous others. Why did Richline Group Inc decide to expand its operations to SA? We acquired the assets that came from rescuing Alan Mair Manufacturing Jewellers during October 2012 and duly started Richline SA, which is fully owned by Berkshire Hathaway‘s Richline Group. This was the company’s sixth international jewellery brand acquisition and is part of the continued expansion of its worldwide corporate branding strategy. What is the primary focus of Richline Group Inc and Richline SA, in particular? Richline Group Inc’s primary focus is responsible business partnering, global manufacturing, global product development, global distribution, full-service marketing and proprietary merchandising. Richline SA supplies a basket of innovatively designed, consistentquality precious metal products and services to the South African market. It aims to expand into Africa and beyond and to assist in creating a sustainable model for the jewellery industry in SA. How has it been received by the local industry and customers? Richline SA has received no special treatment since its inception into the local jewellery market. We had to start by creating an entirely new customer base, building new relationships in an ever-changing market based on trust, quality, affordable products and service delivery. What challenges did Richline SA face? We were confronted by employees who didn’t trust the new company or its processes. Richline SA created a new environment in which all
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Richline SA: leading by example in jewellery Richline SA aims to be innovative, embrace education and work smarter – not harder – in building brands. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
ADVERTORIAL
at building relationships with customers and we continue to do so every day. We’ve had considerable success in this and we now invite customers to come and see our facility and meet our staff in person. What are Richline SA’s long-term goals? To create a sustainable and profitable worldclass jewellery manufacturing concern and to expand into the rest of the continent. We also want to provide more jobs and skills in the jewellery industry in SA. What are the major challenges in the industry? Rebuilding the industry to its glory days of processing 12 tons of fine, compared with two tons at present, and getting meaningful support from government in terms of incentives to grow the industry and compete in the global market. Local manufacturers compete with imports for up to 80% of what’s sold in the market. South African jewellery manufacturers have no price advantage when sourcing their raw materials locally.
employees were considered members of the team making decisions about our future. We now have a family, which makes it easy to go to work. We have a huge crocodile to feed. The management team worked tirelessly to create a new model that will be sustainable in the future. We believe in each other and in the future of our company. Perceptions of Richline were very negative at first, since we’d taken over from a company in rescue that left some customers stranded over the festive period. We worked very hard
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
What makes Richline SA stand out in the industry? We’re the most versatile manufacturing concern in the country and we work tirelessly to create mutually beneficial partnerships with customers. With the backing of the Richline Group, we can supply any size order on time, all the time. Our people, products, quality and service delivery make us a great business partner. We have a passion for jewellery.
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BRAND HISTORY
Ahead of his time A legendary figure in the history of Swiss watchmaking was Daniel Jean Richard. He is considered to be the founder of the watchmaking industry in the canton of Neuchâtel in the late 17th century. He was ahead of his time and his influence is paramount in the Haute Horlogerie brand of today, Jean Richard. THE JEAN RICHARD WATCH BRAND, WHICH was re-launched in 2012, owes a great deal to the pioneering spirit and legacy of Daniel Jean Richard. Born in 1665 in the hamlet of Les Bressels, which was situated between the villages of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle in the Swiss Jura, he had a curious and inventive mind even when young. He was given an English watch which did not function (the English were innovators in the field of watchmaking in the early days and laid the groundwork for today’s mechanical movements) and Richard decided to repair it. After studying its movement, he was inspired to make one exactly like it. Thus he created his first watch in 1681 – the first to be produced in that region. Shortly thereafter he opened his workshop. The International Horological Museum in La Chaux-deFonds conserves several of his most outstanding timepieces of those early years, including a 1710 technical and aesthetic masterpiece with a calendar aperture. Richard also invented various machines and tools linked to watchmaking. Eager to ensure that this expertise was passed on to his successors, he established a system of apprenticeship in his bid to secure the future of the profession. In short, he was a visionary, the epitome of an entrepreneur who follows his passion and does not hesitate to take risks.
The watches have been designed for those who turn each day, hour and moment into a new adventure. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
His pioneering spirit, which opened up new horizons, is still at the heart of the current brand which bears the name Jean Richard. Its predecessor, the legendary Daniel, is recognised as representing the heart of Neuchâtel watchmaking, in which capacity he gave birth to the modern brand. Today Jean Richard is part of the Sowind Group, which also owns Girard-Perregaux. Both are members of the Haute Horlogerie sector. The brand is dedicated to Daniel Jean Richard, but presents a young and innovative interpretation of traditional Swiss watchmaking. The aim of the present designers has been to give the brand a new impetus, redynamising and modernising the latest collections. The watches have been designed for those who turn each day, hour and moment into a new adventure. And this is their credo: for the men and women who wish to live their lives to the full, and for those with an innovative and pioneering spirit, embodying the Daniel Jean Richard of the present. At Baselworld 2015 the brand presented two new Terrascope models in a 39 mm case which can be worn by both men and women and are both elegant and sophisticated. Both have an automatic movement and a power reserve of 38 hours. One of these unisex models has a blue denim-textured dial and a strap in blue ostrich leather, while the other has a bezel set with 54 diamonds in a steel case on a matching steel bracelet. Both are set in a cushionshaped case – a recent trend. Another design is the updated pilot’s watch, the Aeroscope. The Terrascope Chrono Carbon is an allblack limited edition of 200 pieces. This model
combines accuracy with high-tech manufacturing. The luxury brand believes that women are most conscious about time and a model in the Terrascope range is in a 39 mm pink gold case, which was recommended for Mother’s Day. The Terrascope collection also comes in two bronze versions in 44 mm and 39 mm cases, which are elegant and graceful, in any size for any wrist, for men and women. It is a stunning watch with details. For the third consecutive year, the brand served as the official timekeeper of the prestigious BNY Mellon Boat Race and for the first time for the Newton Women’s Boat Race. Both events took place in April and resulted in Oxford’s team enjoying their 79th victory. At these races the brand presented two limitededition Aquascope timepieces.
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INTERNATIONAL FAIR
IIJS and in the In INDIA’S GEM AND JEWELLERY INDUSTRY HAS generated remarkable growth over the past four decades, with exports increasing from US$28 million in 1966/7, when the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotional Council (GJEPC) was established, to an incredible US$39,91 billion in 2014/15.
India’s gem and jewellery industry is the bright star of the economy and one of the most important foundations of the country’s export-led growth. It is a leading foreign exchange generator and one of the fastestgrowing sectors, accounting for 11% of India’s total merchandise exports during 2014/15.
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IIJW The sixth edition of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) took place in Mumbai from 3-6 August. The event closed with a spectacular show, highlighting the best designs shown during the three days. As in previous years, it was a glittering event hosted at the Grand Hyatt with spectacular jewellery and all the glitz one would expect from one of the world’s most important jewellery markets. Some of the biggest stars in Bollywood acted as brand ambassadors for top-end design houses. Gitanjali, AAKS, Anand Shah and many other big Indian brands used the occasion to show their latest ranges, with celebrities like Jhataleka Malhorta (Miss India 2014), Karanveer Bohra, Sonam Kapoor, Sania Mirza and Juhi Chawla providing the glamour. A powerful social message was also conveyed at the show, with some celebrities taking their daughters on stage to support the cause of the movement started by Anu Ranjan. “Girls are as precious as diamonds” was the theme of this year’s event. The collections shown on the ramp in Mumbai also stretched the imagination, with Cherry Sahni’s “Diamond Tree” collection incorporating a mix of emeralds, South Sea pearls, uncut and polished diamonds. The event was partnered by GIA, Gitanjali, Rio Tinto and Forevermark, among others. Sanjay Kothari from the GJEPC and the
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
across India, as well as many foreign markets, to drive more footfalls. Exhibitors were asked for comments regarding the show. “We’ve seen 35-40% growth in the Indian market, with 170 doors and it’s important for us to participate in trade shows to meet existing clients and potential new ones,” said Sachin Jain, President of Forevermark India. “It’s important to exhibit at trade fairs, even during challenging times. I recommend that the products taken to shows be more ‘lightweight’, to cater for reduced budgets,” said Hemil Mody of Akshat Jewels. Mukesh Agarwal of Swaroop Jewellers believes one should always look at potential growth areas like the upcoming Diwali and wedding season and focus one’s display to take full advantage of them. During this year’s show, the organisers added value with facilities such as an “Elite Club”, mezzanine lounges at different locations where members could enjoy some peace, quiet and refreshments, a business centre equipped with Internet access, meeting rooms, conference rooms, photocopying and fax services, coffee shops, fast food areas at various locations and shuttle bus services running from hotels to the exhibition grounds and back every 30 minutes. Various seminars were organised by the GJEPC and spread over a three days. One of these focused on potential exports and growth centres around the world, particularly the Middle East, with Amit Dhamani, CEO of the Dhamani Group, analysing that market. Dhamani said the Dubai government was using a number of new platforms to accelerate economic growth, namely the Dubai Meyden City, the US$2 billion Blue Water Island Project, the US$11 billion Etihad Rail Project and the US$8,2 billion Mohammed bin Rashid City. These initiatives would provide lucrative catchment areas for the jewellery and diamond industries. The UAE government was spending an additional US$75 billion on the Dubai Expo 2020, which was also expected to produce a wave of infrastructure development. Dhamani told the attendees that the 460 000 high net-worth individuals in the Middle East had collective holdings of US$2,2 trillion. The UAE had the highest concentration of high net-worth individuals, at 72 000, followed by Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Kuwait. “Most tourists to the Middle East are big spenders and, interestingly some 85% of people landing in Dubai come with the intention of buying jewellery,” he said.
IIJW – the jewels ndian crown team once more produced a special event that reflected the importance of commitment from all in the sector to developing the industry. IIJS The IIJS was opened by the main guest, Rita Teaotia, Commerce Secretary at the Indian Ministry of Commerce & Industry. The guest of honour was Paul Rowley, Executive Vice-President of De Beers: Global Sightholder Sales and Vipul Shah, Chairman of the IIJS. “The Indian gem and jewellery industry has seen slow growth in the past few months, especially in terms of exports. However, with the GJEPC’s efforts in initiatives such as the IIJS, the IIJW and buyer-seller meetings, we’re optimistic that business will gradually pick up towards the festive season,” said Shah at the opening ceremony. Rowley said the industry’s fortunes were interconnected and that the impact of the difficulties in the diamond pipeline was felt by the wider mid-stream sector, as well as De Beers sightholders. “We’re now approaching the point in the annual season when consumer demand reaches its peak and we all have a role to play in getting things moving again in a much quicker, responsive and more sustainable way. We need to protect the integrity of our natural diamond pipelines and work on developing maximum operational efficiency, coupled with strong distribution channels,” he said. In her opening address, Teaotia said the gem and jewellery sector was one of the foremost industries in India in terms of its contribution to the country’s export and employment generation. IIJS, now in its 32nd year, is still growing in strength and certainly rates as one of the
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
world’s top business-tobusiness platforms. Despite space constraints, the organising body – the GJEPC – was able to accommodate 175 new exhibitors and 200 new booths, taking the total to 1 100+ exhibitors and 2 000+ booths. The trading floor has also been tweaked to accommodate new sections, namely laboratories, education, synthetics and simulations, while international loose stones and allied products have been moved to their own section. According to Shah, the IIJS achieved a 25% growth in exhibitors and 11% growth in booths, making it the biggest show in Asia. This year, 97% of last year’s exhibitors renewed their contracts to exhibit, while a further 500 companies have been wait-listed for future booths. During the 2014 show, 40 billion rupees’ worth of business was signed. The success of the event can be attributed to the council visiting 150 sites
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ROSH HASHANAH G Metal Concentrators SA would like to wish all our Jewish clients, colleagues and friends L´Shanah Tovah and well over the fast.
CJR Gift Sales (Pty) Ltd wishes all its Jewish customers a happy, healthy, prosperous and sweet New Year and well over the fast. Shanah Tovah.
Pretoria: (012) 000-4440 Cape Town: (021) 510-0770 Durban: 083-600-2210 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za
Tel: (011) 257-6000 • E-mail: info@cjr.co.za
The directors and staff of Associated Insurance Brokers wish our Jewish clients and friends in the industry a Shanah Tovah and meaningful fast. Tel: (011) 883-2400 Fax: (011) 783-3664 Website: www.aib.za.com
Shanah Tovah u’Metukah! The SAJN team wishes you a happy and healthy New Year and well over the fast. Tel: (011) 883-4627 Fax: (011) 783-2677 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Website: www.isikhova.co.za
Marilyn and all at The Tanzanite Company wish you peace, prosperity and happiness in the year ahead. Shanah Tovah and well over the fast! Tel: (011) 446-5900 Fax: 086-614-7433 E-mail: marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za
Wishing all our Jewish customers, colleagues and friends L’Shanah Tovah. Tel: (011) 642-2018/9 Fax: (011) 642-2016 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za Website: www.ungarbros.co.za
GREETINGS DIA
I nternatIonal D IamonD CertIfICatIon laboratory
To all our Jewish customers, may you have a blessed Rosh Hashanah. The girls at the D.I.A. Lab Tel: (011) 334-5911 E-mail: DIALab@telkomsa.net Website: www.diagrading.co.za
Wishing all our Jewish clients, colleagues and friends a prosperous New Year. Tel: (011) 805-7574 Fax: (011) 805-7576 E-mail: enquiries@aps-studex.co.za Website: www.aps-studex.co.za
Wishing all our Jewish clients, friends and colleagues L’shanah Tovah and well over the fast. Tel: (011) 418-1600 Fax: (011) 825-4043 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za Website: richlinegroup.com
Shanah Tovah to all our Jewish customers. We at Bassano Gioielli would like to wish you a joyous festival and all the best for the New Year ahead. Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164 Fax: (011) 704-4002 Website: www.bassanogioielli.com
L’Shanah Tovah from The My Cheri Diamonds Team. With warmest wishes for Peace, Happiness and Renewal in the New Year for you and your loved ones. Tel: (011) 334-8925/6 Mobile: 082-947-6522 E-mail: orders@mycheridiamonds.co.za
Doron Diamonds would like to wish all its customers, colleagues and friends a peaceful and prosperous New Year ahead. Tel: (011) 334-7228 Fax: 086-577-7718 E-mail: info@dorondiamonds.co.za
DID YOU KNOW?
Interesting facts 1
2
Automobile magnate Henry Ford was the first to uncover the contemporary industrial uses of the diamond. He sponsored research into its applications for the manufacturing sector, especially as a low-cost abrasive.
Scientists have discovered a planet that they believe is composed mostly of carbon and is one-third pure diamond. Discovered in 2004, the planet orbits a nearby star in the Milky Way and is named 55 Cancri e.
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Jacqueline Kennedy's jewellery collection grew considerably when she married Aristotle Onassis: he gave his bride $5 million in jewellery and often slipped bracelets from Harry Winston into the bi-weekly bouquets of flowers he sent her.
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The diamond industry employs approximately 10 million people around the world, both directly and indirectly, across a wide spectrum of roles from mining to retailing.
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Although it has no nutritional value, gold has an e-number: E175. You can eat it in chocolates or as flakes in Swiss cinnamonflavoured Goldschlager liqueurs.
Sometimes rose quartz features asterism, which gives it the effect of having a six-point “star” inside it when polished. This may be why a rounded version of the common star symbol is used by the crystal gems.
3
In the musical Moulin Rouge, Nicole Kidman wore the most expensive piece of jewellery ever designed specifically for a movie. It was a necklace valued at approximately $1 million which was made from platinum and 1 308 diamonds.
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The Aztecs called gold “the excrement of the gods”. It was valued less than feathers, their most valuable currency. Decoratively they much preferred brass, introduced by the Spanish invaders.
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The colour of smoky quartz is produced when natural radiation, emitted from the surrounding rock, activates colour centres around aluminum impurities within the crystalline quartz.
• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
JEWELLEX AFRICA
A showcase for the industry Avi Keren, MD of Fossil Accessories SA (a subsidiary of the Fossil Group), sees Jewellex Africa as the ideal opportunity for social interaction, as well as doing business, and hopes it gives visitors insights into what the watch and jewellery industry has to offer. How long have you been involved in the jewellery industry in SA? Since 1989, although in the mid-1980s I was lucky enough to travel to international and local jewellery shows with my father. In fact, even as a child, I used to work many weekends at his jewellery wholesale business, so you could say I’ve been involved in the industry all my life. Are you optimistic about the future of the South African jewellery industry – the watch industry in particular? Yes, I am. People will always wear watches, whether as fashion accessories or luxury items. The technologies we see coming into play today will potentially add a new dimension to the sector. As in any industry, the watch business isn’t without its challenges, but in the medium and long term, I’m very optimistic. I really can't speak for precious jewellery, but I also see big potential growth in branded jewellery. What brands will be on display at your stand at this year’s Jewellex Africa? The Fossil Group owns or markets many great brands, but we’ll be showing one of our key ones, Skagen, because that will be our next lifestyle brand, following in the footsteps of the Fossil brand. There are already Skagen stores around the world selling watches, leather goods, jewellery and other accessories, so we want to convey the message that Skagen is more than just a watch brand.
Retailers are really our partners in this industry, so it’s vital that they see their suppliers not only showing their products, but also supporting them in every possible way. Why did you decide to attend Jewellex Africa again this year? Our involvement with Jewellex has been on and off. However, we want to support the show and the watch and jewellery industry more consistently, so we decided to attend this year. I hope it will become an annual event for us. Why do you believe Jewellex is important? It shows retailers what suppliers have to offer, in one space. Retailers are really our partners in this industry, so it’s vital that they see their suppliers not only showing their products, but
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
also supporting them in every possible way. We need to support each other so that we can all be successful. What can an exhibitor/visitor gain from attending Jewellex? I hope visitors gain insights into what the watch and jewellery industry has to offer. It’s also an opportunity for suppliers and retailers to meet each other and do business. Both aspects – social interaction and trade – are very important and I hope that those areas become more balanced at the show.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
B-Rocket: the dynamic duo that is bucking the trend Inspired by aeronautical design, watchmaker Bell & Ross has again commissioned Shaw Harley-Davidson to design a concept bike with a sleek and powerful look, evoking the extreme modernity of the 1960s and the very first American jet aircraft. Since its creation, Bell & Ross has constantly striven to perfect the look of tools dedicated to aviation and featuring amazing functional mechanics. In 2014, it went even further, presenting a totally exclusive motorcycle, constructed with the engineers at Shaw Harley-Davidson, who share the brand’s values of innovation, performance and precision. It is a unique motorcycle, inspired by the iconic world of the first jet planes secretly designed in the United States in the 1960s and evoking the heyday of aeronautics, when anything seemed possible. The B-Rocket is a concept bike with a neo-retro look and lines encapsulating the essential principles of aeronautical design. Bell & Ross and Shaw HarleyDavidson worked side by side for over a year designing the B-Rocket. For optimum aerodynamics, Shaw Harley-Davidson’s engineers and Bell & Ross’s designers chose a low driving position, ensuring that the motorcycle and rider function as one.
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For the rider’s comfort, strips of padded leather are placed on the centre of the fuel tank and turbines where the knees rest. A conical nose resembling that of a jet plane is attached at the front to improve air intake. A matte black strip crosses the glossy paintwork for an anti-reflective effect and a glass windscreen enables the rider to see his route. Meanwhile, two adjustable fins on either side of the fork, designed to resemble small wings, can be used to increase or reduce contact with the ground. The generously curved rear section required many hours of craftsmanship. Inspired by an aircraft cabin, this hand-worked aerodynamic area was manufactured using more than 30 different sections of steel. The almost invisible Plexiglas sections around the rear wheel reveal the pinion, chain and brake caliper. Finally, the wheel rims add an ultra-aerodynamic touch to the B-Rocket, while the solid, fixed aluminium wheel covers conceal the 10” brake discs. These are cooled via impressive brass grilles which allow hot air to escape and reinforce the overall impression of “floating” and controlled speed. The stylistic and technical originality of the B-Rocket can also be seen in its two sidemounted turbines, instantly evocative of two jet engines that help to rapidly discharge air to achieve higher speeds. Two new types of filters have been incorporated into these turbines: the first on the right, for the intake of air and the second on the left, to cool the oil. These two “jet engines” are united by a hand-crafted stainless steel grille protecting the hydraulic tanks during activation of the clutch and brakes. The symmetry of these two high-performance engines strengthens the symbolic appeal of this unique airplane-motorcycle, whose powerweight ratio is unrivalled. Finally, a tachometer designed by Bell & Ross has been incorporated into the front fairing to allow the rider to remain attuned to his machine’s heartbeat. Here again, aesthetics merge with functionality; the canopy and the tachometer combine extreme legibility with a rapid display of information regarding speed. In the wake of the B-Rocket, Bell & Ross is launching two watches which perform
complementary functions and are complementary in size. A direct offshoot of the B-Rocket, the BR 01 B-Rocket is the ultimate watch for drivers. Just like the high-speed motorcycle it is designed to match, this instrument is impressive. Its case measures 46 mm in diameter. The ultimate in terms of timing speed, it has a large minutes counter, with a tachymetric scale on the outer edge of the dial, which – as a matter of priority – measures short periods, thus allowing the wearer’s performance to be instantly displayed. For further information, it also has a 60-second, a 30minute and a 12-hour counter. From a functional point of view, the chronograph is automatically triggered by the highway push-piece. In a flash, the small seconds counter, at three o’clock, replicates the graphic display used in experimental vehicle testing. In the more elaborate BR 03 B-Rocket version of the watch, the 42 mm satin-brushed steel case is fitted with two complications. The hours, minutes and seconds display also features a large date window and a power-reserve indicator. There are cut-outs in the sub-dial revealing the discs operating the large date window and highlighting just how sophisticated the mechanism is. The circular power reserve counter at 6 o’clock is reminiscent of the fuel gauge seen on racing motorcycles or cars. With their sophisticated finishes, the BR 01 and BR 03 B-Rocket can communicate, making dimmed headlights within easy reach. Their satin-brushed steel cases are powered by a self-winding Swiss mechanical movement. The azure counters with their guilloché finish. The matte black dial emphasises the colour contrast. To accentuate readability, the skeletonised hours and minutes hands are also coated with a photo-luminescent material. To stress their association with the world of driving, a red triangle marks 12 o’clock, echoing the triangle visible on the B-Rocket’s tachometer and turbines. Finally, both watches are fitted with a padded leather strap, lined and edged in red, modelled on the seat of the B-Rocket. Both the BR 01 and BR 03 B-Rocket are waterresistant to a depth of 100 m and fitted with anti-glare-treated sapphire crystal.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT
A passion for excellence
Fabergé presents Summer in Provençe The latest creation from the Fabergé ateliers, the Haute Joaillerie Summer in Provençe watch, was designed like a wreath of flowers woven on a warm afternoon in the south of France. It features a fascinating, interlacing pattern of precious ribbons, diamonds and emeralds mingled with colourful fine stones and dainty flowers individually sculpted in hard stone. Two small, supple enamel bands undulate over the creation and stamp it with the Fabergé signature. Others graced with snow-set precious stones wind over the dial to embrace the case. The wrist is gently encircled by a bracelet composed of diamonds set like the beads on a necklace, with a central garland of tiny flowers winding its away along its entire length. A manufacture-made calibre beats at the heart of this creation, giving life to an exquisite symphony of colours. It features a mechanical automatic 3 000 calibre movement, is hand-engraved and set with 14 diamonds (0,03ct). It has a 50-hour power reserve. Its 37 mm gold case has 374 diamonds, 17 Paraiba tourmalines and 10 emeralds (2,81ct). Its 18ct white gold dial has 332 diamonds, 19 Paraiba tourmalines, 15 emeralds (1,87ct) and mother-of-pearl flowers and chrysoprase leaves. Its 18ct gold strap has 93 closed-set diamonds, 114 diamonds set on rings, 10 emeralds (10,58ct) and mother-of-pearl flowers and chrysoprase leaves. This is a five-piece limited series.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
The Fleurier Quality Foundation is one of the most demanding watch certifications. It combines the COSC, Chronofiable and Fleuritest trials. Chopard recently presented a new timepiece bearing the prestigious label. Entirely developed, crafted and assembled in Fleurier, the brand-new LUC Qualité Fleurier chronometer embodies the Chopard vision of Haute Horlogerie perfection. Indeed, this brand is the one that has had the most watches certified by the Fleurier Quality Foundation since the creation of the much-coveted label, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2014. Completely independent and open to all watch brands, it certify not only the precision, reliability, durability and perfection of the aesthetic finishes on the movement, but also the excellence of the watch as a whole. It authoritatively testifies that the entire timepiece, including all movement and exterior components, was indeed manufactured in Switzerland.
The LUC Qualité Fleurier features a mechanical automatic movement with LUC 96,09-L calibre, two superimposed barrels according to LUC “Twin” technology, 29 jewels and 28 800 vibrations per hour. It has a 65hour power reserve. Its 18ct pink gold case is 39 mm in diameter with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating and is water-resistant to 30 m. Its hand-sewn, black alligator leather strap with brown alligator leather lining has an 18ct pink gold buckle. Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his own workshop in 1860 in Sonvillier, in the Swiss Jura. Since 1963 Chopard has been owned by the Scheufele family and its headquarters are located in Geneva. Internationally renowned for its watch and jewellery creations, the group today employs over 2 000 people worldwide. It is independent and vertically integrated, controlling the entire process from design to distribution through 1 600 points of sale and more than 147 dedicated boutiques.
Preserving the art of handwriting When two manufacturers, both devoted to excellence, combined their unique skills, their creativity gave form to three fine writing instruments, proposed as limited editions: Crystal. This encounter began with a droplet – or, rather, the famed Coutard design which René Lalique imagined in 1935. On the body of a pen crafted from white gold, black ceramic or white ceramic, Caran d’Ache has reproduced this iconic spray of water to evoke the magic of exceptional objects made entirely inside its workshops in Geneva. On ceramic, the droplets spell out a pattern in relief, magnificently orchestrated by talented artisans. And when Crystal drapes itself in white gold, no fewer than 341 diamonds (3ct) illuminate the shower of drops along the writing instrument. This unique objet d’art is accompanied by an inkwell in satin crystal, specially created by Lalique. The renowned glassmaker’s signature completes this opus with a crystal cabochon which crowns each pen.
The Black Edition in black ceramic is a limited series of 999 fountain pens and 999 roller pens. The White Edition in white ceramic with a solitaire diamond on the clip is also a limited series of 999 fountain pens and 999 roller pens, while the Crystal and Diamonds Edition in white gold with the 341 diamonds is delivered with a Lalique crystal inkwell and is a limited series of only 18 fountain pens. Ever since 1915, Caran d’Ache has carefully preserved the art of handwriting, which has connected people since the dawn of civilisation. With a heritage of expertise, it designs and produces exceptional products. Caran d’Ache writing instruments, as well as its art and drawing materials, are recognised around the world for their Swiss-made excellence. Combining technical ingenuity with aesthetics, and original materials with superb design, these are personal objects that enhance every written word. Each pen is part of the human adventure that has shaped the company.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Bestiary of diamond and ruby antique brooches Since founding his collection in 1968, Thomas Faerber has been hunting down exceptional precious stones, diamonds and natural pearls, as well as antique or historical jewellery pieces that delight collectors. He now presents his latest finding: an Asian-inspired French brooch dating from around 1890. The brooch features calibrated-cut rubies and 68 cut diamonds from a former mine, as well as an emerald eye, a ruby-set dragon’s tongue, an antique heron brooch with round and rose-cut diamonds (approximately 3ct) and a cabochon-cut ruby eye. Forming a stylised “F” shape, the jewels
entwine with the diamonds to form a dragon mounted on silver and yellow gold and totalling approximately 5ct. More than 40 years after causing a sensation at Baselworld by being the first to present antique jewellery to an international audience – a daring move that met with unanimous appreciation – the Geneva-based family company also presents in Antwerp, New York, Paris and Hong Kong in perpetuating its heritage of expertise and beauty, cultivated by four generations of passionately dedicated jewellers. The brooch’s origin is England, circa 1870.
Son of Gears Shams Skeletonisation is a difficult art in watchmaking. Whether modern or classic, the architecture of the movement pared down to essentials must be aesthetically pleasing and not impede reading the time. ArtyA successfully ventures into this field with a collection named “Shams”, the Arabic word for “sun”. It is easy to see why when examining the original cut-out of this hand-wound movement. While the shape remains the same for the three variations of this collection (each issued in a 99-piece limited edition), they appear clothed in original exteriors according to the various PVD treatments applied. The steel case/black movement is accompanied by a version with steel case and 100% gold-toned movement, along with another which has a steel case and steel movement. This variety will appeal to both men and women of all ages and features a mechanical hand-wound movement with a power reserve of up to 52 hours. It has a polished 316L stainless steel case, 44 mm in diameter, with sapphire crystal and back. It is water-resistant to 50 m. Yvan Arpa is one of the most audacious and avant-garde watch creators alive. After making a significant contribution to some of the biggest success stories in the watch industry, in 2010 he launched his own brand, ArtyA. He plays by his own rules, creating art pieces that simply cannot fit into any existing category of watchmaking. Each piece is either numbered or unique, blending audacity with creativity in a disruptive and often provocative way. The company is 100% independent, with a highly responsive team of fewer than 10 peo-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
ple. Unlike most Swiss brands, ArtyA has its own manufacture, based in central Geneva. Its trendsetting collections can be divided into six different families, housed in seven different watch cases, ranging from 38-47 mm. ArtyA’s collections all go by the “Son of” brand name: Son of Sound, Son of a Gun, Son of Earth, Son of Gears, Son of Arts and Son of Love. These families allow Arpa to have an open, living playground in which he can create many variations every year, using innovative concepts and unconventional raw materials – such as butterfly wings (under the control of the authorities), stones, real bullets, real (shredded) euros, “dinosaur dung”, non-circular mechanical gears, cases struck by real lightning and steel drenched in Arpa blood or in motor oil. All the hand-made dials in the various collections are created by artist Dominique ArpaCirpka, who applies numerous techniques – most of which have never before been used in this industry. The research into such exclusive materials and treatments and the exceptional
skills required to work with them are jealously guarded secrets. From a mechanical viewpoint, ArtyA masters every aspect of the historical expertise of this industry, from three-hands models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons and from minute repeaters to simpler, skeletonised mechanical movements. Another distinctive characteristic of the ArtyA brand and its models is their constant evolution: collections remain, but the watches are all very limited in number, with many of them being unique pieces. Yvan Arpa makes them live and develop every month, quarter and year.
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Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
MARKETPLACE
FOR SALE GERMAN LASER WELDER FOR JEWELLERS
SECOND HAND BUT IN PERFECT WORKING ORDER New price R330 000 My price R120 000 Contact John/Mathias on tel: 041 374 2101
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
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LITTLE GEMS
silised substance and, because of this, often contains animal or plant material. It is used for jewellery as well as decorative objects and its name is derived from Latin, French and Arabic words in the 14th century. It also refers to Baltic amber from the 13th century. It does, however, have a history dating back to the fourth century BC, when it was washed up on the shores of an island in northern Europe. There were wellestablished trade routes connecting the richest sources of amber in the Baltic to the Mediterranean, where the people of ancient southern Italy were working it. Historically, the west coast of Königsberg in Prussia was the world’s leading source of amber. About 90% of extractable amber is still located in that area, which became part of Russia in 1946. It is also fished for on the coast of the Baltic Sea, where winter storms can throw out nuggets close to Gdansk in Poland. The most prized is transparent, in contrast to the very common cloudy and opaque material. Amber appears in a large range of hues, from whitish to pale lemon yellow, as well as the yellow and orange-brown with which it is usually associated. The yellow variety is hard and translucent, with the brown being fossil resin from evergreen trees – such as species of pines and other conifers – but there are also other types of resins. Relics of animals or plant matter can occur as inclusions trapped within the amber. Pieces are torn from the sea floor and are cast up by the waves. These are collected by hand-dredging or diving. Elsewhere, it is mined both in open works and underground galleries. When heated gradually in an oil bath, amber becomes soft and pliable. After additional treatment, the product is used for jewellery, as well as articles used for smoking and the mouthpieces of musical blown instruments. Amber has been used for jewellery since the Stone Age, 13 000 years ago: ornaments have been found dating from Mycenaean tombs, as well as elsewhere in Europe. It was believed to have healing properties and was used as folk medicine and in perfumery to create artificial “musk”. When burnt, it gives off a distinctive pinewood fragrance.
The sunshine colour Yellow is the most luminous of all colours and the one that captures our attention most. It signifies happiness, optimism, sunshine, warmth, spring and daffodils, although it has different meanings in most cultures. Alice Weil looks at two gems which are usually associated with this vibrant shade. ONE NORMALLY THINKS OF TOPAZ AS A YELlow gemstone, its colour the result of minerals in the structure of the crystalline form or matrix. The name “topaz” was used to refer to many yellow gemstones during the Middle Ages, but this is not so in modern times. It is generally regarded as a gem of desirable hues such as blue, red, green, orange-brown, pink, purple and grey. It can even be multi-coloured. This doubtless makes for confusion when distinguishing these stones from similar gems. Topaz, however, is fairly common and relatively inexpensive when found in large flawless crystals. The Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC owns cut topazes of several carats each. In 1964, remarkable blue specimens were located in the Ukraine weighing around 100 kg. The name “topaz” is derived from the Old French term “topace”. The Greek equivalent, “topazos”, was not really known in the classical era, but the stone was believed to be found on a legendary island in the Red Sea. Colours are varied, the most predominant being yellow with
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a reddish tint. The most valuable is the pink to reddish orange, its colouring agent usually lime and chrome. The stone has a vitreous lustre. During the 18th century the most valuable topaz mine was in Saxony (Germany), but today the most important supplier is Minas Gerais in Brazil. Other areas are in Afghanistan, Australia, Myanmar, China, Japan, Madagascar, Mexico, Namibia, Nigeria, Pakistan, the Urals in Russia, Zimbabwe, Sri Lanka, Scotland and Cornwall in England. The Brazilian stones are known as imperial topaz and are a strong golden-yellow. Those favoured for use in jewellery are the blue variety. The stones are usually step-cut or scissorscut, while colourless or white and multicoloured ones are brilliant-cut. The cabochon is usually reserved for those with inclusions. Topaz measures 8 on the Mohs scal and is the birthstone of those born in November. Amber, too, is usually associated with the colour yellow. It is not a gem in the usual sense of the word – it originates as a soft, sticky, fos-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2015
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