SA jewellerynews
WE LOOK AT
In conversation with Johan Bezuidenhout
Coloured gemstone value factors
Engagement ring trends of 2024
Managing your digital footprint
PROUD SUPPLIERS OF YOUR FESTIVE GIFTING NEEDS
From jewellery boxes to findings and jewellery cleaners, the best gifts come in small packages
9. NEWS
• De Beers cancels sight for first time since Covid-19
• Letšeng in Lesotho yields ninth 100+ct diamond this year
• Ethical Metalsmiths launches online jewellery store
• Registration open for 2024 CIBJO Congress
13. NEW JCSA BOARD
The Jewellery Council of SA elected its new board members for the ensuing term during its recent annual general meeting
14. IN CONVERSATION WITH JOHAN BEZUIDENHOUT
JCSA Chairperson Johan Bezuidenhout tells SAJN about some of the biggest challenges facing the local industry
16. EXAMINING THE SEVEN VALUE FACTORS
The Gemological Institute of America identified colour, uniformity of colour, origin, size, clarity, shape and cut as the seven quality factors influencing the value of coloured gemstones
22. TIPS FOR JEWELLERY DESIGN COMPETITION SUCCESS
Omphile Sibanda, the 2016 runner-up of the SLA competition, offers valuable tips and advice to designers aspiring to enter competitions of this nature
SECURELY MANAGING YOUR DIGITAL FOOTPRINT
Our expanding digital footprint, including what we share on social media and via e-mail, places us at growing risk of identity theft, data breaches and cybercrime
An engagement ring is a significant investment – both in terms of sentiment and financial values – for a client
A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa
Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za
Design to deliver high quality trade services
Price List 2024 | All prices excluding 15% VAT CAD DESIGNS R 450.00 | R 575.00 | R 700.00 Design Changes - R 100.00
WAX PRINTING R 0.65/mm3
GOLD CASTINGS
925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct
Casting Fee Per Flask - Small R160.00 | Medium R 320.00 | Large R 500 |
Sprue-up Fee R 50.00
PLATINUM CASTINGS
PtAu | PtCu R 75.00/g
FINISHING SERVICES
925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct
Semi-Finishing Fee - R 70.00/g
PtAu | PtCu
Semi-Finishing Fee - R 100.00/g
925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct
Full Finishing Fee - R 160.00/g | 200.00/g | R 215.00/g | 230.00/g | 250.00/g
PtAu | PtCu
Finishing Fee - R 250.00/g
SETTING SERVICES
From R 35.00/stone | Removal of Stones R 15.00/stone
Editor: Adri Viviers
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Editor's note
DIS HEERLIKE LENTE, DIE WINTER IS VERBY!
Spring is a significant season in many cultures, as it marks the harvesting time for agriculture. It is a season full of celebrations. For our industry, September marks the beginning of wedding season in South Africa.
Spring is when the weather is neither too cold nor too hot. There is a cool breeze and abundant beauty in nature, as all the plants are in full bloom. Most people love spring for the freshness and joy it brings. Children are close to nature as they play in gardens, observing plants, flowers and greenery.
We celebrate the new season in this issue with a colourful and educational feature on the seven quality factors that influence the value of coloured gemstones, which the GIA identifies as colour, uniformity of colour, origin, size, clarity, shape and cut.
The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is also entering an exciting new season with the announcement of its new board (p13) for the ensuing term. SAJN extends its heartfelt
congratulations to each member and wishes them all the best as they take on these new challenges and responsibilities. We also talk to the council’s newly elected Chairperson, Johan Bezuidenhout, about the biggest challenges facing the local industry and possible ways of overcoming them.
There are few things customers purchase with the intention of wearing every day, for the rest of their lives. Yet that is precisely what an engagement ring represents: the promise of forever. As such, it is a significant investment – both in terms of sentiment and financial value – for a client. We look at the top engagement ring trends of 2024.
As we welcome spring, let us also welcome new opportunities and beginnings!
Happy spring and happy reading!
Adri Viviers
Ajanta Afrika is a South African supplier of precious and semi-precious gemstones, as well as unconventional diamonds and a variety of beads. Its passion for stones shows in its wide range of unique and typical gems that it sources from around the world. Ajanta Afrika’s website showcases approximately 4 000 products, as well as price lists. Members of the trade simply need to register on the website to be approved as a wholesale buyer to access its array of products. For more information, visit: www.ajantaafrika.com.
De Beers cancels sight for first time since Covid-19
De Beers cancelled Sight 7, scheduled for the end of August, as the slump in global diamond demand persists.
It was the first time the troubled UK miner has taken such a decision since Sights 3, 4 and 5 of 2020 were all cancelled in the depths of the Covid-19 crisis.
De Beers’ last reported sales, for Sight 5 of this year, were just US$315 million, but figures for Sight 6, in July, have not been disclosed.
The company has now ditched Sight by Sight reports in favour of quarterly updates. However, there was speculation beforehand that Sight 6 sales could dip below US$200 million.
De Beers has also rescheduled its remaining Sights for the rest of this year.
Sight 8 is now 23-27 September (originally 7-11 October), Sight 9 is now 4-8 November
(originally 11-15 November) and Sight 10 is now 2-6 December (originally 9-13 December).
In a statement, De Beers announced: “We are rescheduling Sight dates for the remainder of the year to support Sightholder businesses in navigating industry trading conditions, as well as to avoid timing issues, with a UN conference set to take place in Botswana in mid-December.
“Following engagements with Sightholders, we believe this revised scheduling will better support their evolving business needs as we head towards the end-of-year season.”
Diamond miner Petra also cancelled its August/September tender “to support steps taken by major producers to restrict supply in this weaker demand period”. Sales have been sliding at recent tenders. – IDEX Online
Ethical Metalsmiths launches online jewellery store
Ethical Metalsmiths has introduced a new online jewellery store featuring pieces made from discarded and broken earrings, bracelets and necklaces.
The Radical Jewelry Makeover Store will feature jewels created by Ethical Metalsmith’s RJM Artist Project collective, as well as from the non-profit’s Rejewelry Competition, it stated recently. The collection uses donated,
Swiss watch exports rebound despite China, Hong Kong weakness
Swiss watch exports gained traction in July as increased demand in the USA and Japan outweighed a continued slowdown in Hong Kong and China.
Shipments of timepieces rose 1,6% to US$2,61 billion for the month, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported. The lift
unwanted and broken jewellery such as unmatched earrings, tangled chains and banged-up pieces that would otherwise end up in the trash can, the organisation explained.
RJM is an international travelling community mining and jewellery recycling project that gives local designers the tools to show off their skills and creativity while
followed a 7% decline in June and a decrease of 2,2% in May as appetite in Asia remained weak.
“Swiss watch exports returned to slight growth in July,” the federation noted. “Several leading markets recorded steady growth, including the USA, Japan, France, South Korea, Taiwan and Saudi Arabia. China and Hong Kong saw very sharp declines for the sixth month running.”
Supply to the USA climbed 11% to US$444,8 million. Japan took the numbertwo spot for the second month in a row, with exports rising 26% to US$217,7 million. In
helping the environment. The programme focuses on education, collaboration and finding sustainable solutions within the jewellery industry.
All pieces are hand-fabricated by jewellers around the world. New items are accompanied by the story and designer behind each collection. The jewellery ranges from under US$100 to about US$3 000. – Rapaport
China, which was traditionally the secondlargest market for Swiss watches, shipments fell 33% US$204,6 million and in Hong Kong they slid 19% to US$171,4 million. France saw a rise of 14%, as did South Korea, while shipments were up 25% in both Taiwan and Saudi Arabia.
Timepieces under US$233 performed the best, jumping 14%. Items valued above US$3 491 also saw “significant growth,” improving 5%.
In the first seven months of the year, exports declined 2,4% to US$17,64 billion. – Rapaport
Letšeng in Lesotho yields ninth 100+ct diamond this year
Gem Diamonds has yielded the ninth stone greater than 100ct so far this year from its Letšeng mine in Lesotho.
The 145,55ct high-quality, type II diamond was unearthed on 3 August.
In 2023 and 2022, the company discovered only four
diamonds of that calibre. In June this year, the company found both a 123,20ct and a 172,06ct rough, while in May it found a 212,49ct stone, in April two type IIa diamonds weighing 169,15ct and 118,74ct, and a high-value, 295ct, type IIa white diamond in January.
Registration open for 2024 CIBJO Congress
Only two months remain before the start of the 2024 congress of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO). Delegates and other participants may register via the dedicated congress website at: www.cibjo.org/ congress-2024/.
CIBJO’s 2024 annual congress will take place in Shanghai, China’s financial centre, from 2-4 November. Pre-congress meetings will be held on 31 October and 1 November.
The hosts of the congress are the Donghao Lansheng Group and the China Gems & Jade Exchange.
The congress venue and the official hotel will be the Shangri-La Qiantan, in the heart of Shanghai’s New Bund International Business District in Pudong.
The dedicated website includes the congress programme, important travel information, background information about Shanghai and the congress venue, news and media.
An online registration form for the congress is available and delegates will also be able to book hotel rooms at special congress rates using a link provided on the dedicated website.
CIBJO Congresses serve as the gathering place for the World Jewellery Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates. They are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation’s definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.
Additionally, the CIBJO Congresses are where the programmes of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF), as well as activities related to CIBJO’s ongoing co-operation with the UN and its development programme, are reported on.
Final deadline for transitioning to revised system of warranties
The World Diamond Council (WDC) is calling out to industry members to seize the moment and be ready in time to meet the deadline for rough diamond sales.
The WDC’s revised System of Warranties is set to reach its first critical deadline on 21 September 2024, as the three-year grace period to convert to the new system for rough diamond sales is about to end.
The System of Warranties is a global mechanism created by the WDC for the industry, so that companies relay to the next buyer in the supply chain that the goods they are trading are in compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme
(KPCS) and the SoW Guidelines, hence passing down the warranty of a conflict-free origin, as well as the assurance of adherence to other responsible business principles such as human rights, labour rights, anti-money laundering and counter-terrorism financing.
“We strongly urge all companies, but especially rough diamond traders, to transition to the revised SoW, if they have not done so yet, to be ready for the 21 September deadline,” says Elodie Daguzan, WDC Executive Director. “Registration is remarkably easy. There's a full toolkit available, as well as a SoW Co-ordinator who operates a hotline for anyone requiring support. By abiding to the SoW, diamond companies demonstrate leadership, upholding the baseline of industry selfregulation at a time when due diligence practices have never been as important.”
Jewellery Council of South Africa: Board Members 2024-2027
JMASA – Manufacturing Division
Large Richline
Medium Studio C Manufacturing Jewellers
Small Free Range Jewels
Small – Alternate Tshwane University of Technology
JASA – Retail Division
Small Ben & Co Designs
Medium Jack Friedman
Large The Foschini Group
Retail Interest Group (Chevron) Elegance Jewellers
Wholesale Division Unity Diamonds
Refining
Refining Rep 1 Metal Concentrators
Refining Rep 2 Cape Precious Metals
Mining
Mining Rep 1
Anglo American Platinum
Mining Rep 2 De Beers
Jewellex Sub-Committee JCSA
Services Bryte Insurance
Publishing Isikhova
Diamond Dealers Club of SA Molefi Letseki Diamonds
Government Representative Department of Trade, Industry and Competition
Government Alternative Department of Trade, Industry and Competition
Administration JCSA
Chairperson Johan Bezuidenhout johan.bezuidenhout@richlinegroup.com
Chris van Rensburg chris@studioc.co.za
David Bolding david@dbgold.co.za
Dave Newman newmand@tut.ac.za
Bheki Ngema bheki@ben-codesigns.com
Howard Fevrier howard@jackfriedman.co.za
Khalid Mohamed KhalidM@tfg.co.za
Nick Mavrodaris nick@ejewels.co.za
Martin Gerschlowitz martin@unitydiamonds.co.za
Grant Crosse grant.crosse@metcon.co.za+G50
Sharon Eades Sharon@cpmct.co.za
Fahmida Smith Fahmida.Smith@angloamerican.com
Kagiso Fredericks Kagiso.Fredericks@debeersgroup.com
C.E.O. Lorna Lloyd lornal@jewellery.org.za
Natasha Maroun natasha.maroun@brytesa.com
Robyn Lambert robyn.lambert@brytesa.com
Imraan Mahomed imraan@isikhova.co.za
Molefi Letseki ml@mldiamonds.com
Rabelani Ramukhuvhathi rramukhuvhathi@thedtic.gov.za
Celia Nyathikazi cnyathikazi@thedtic.gov.za
Company Secretary Elsa da Silva elsad@jewellery.org.za
In conversation with Johan Bezuidenhout
The new JCSA chairperson, Johan Bezuidenhout, tells SAJN about some of the biggest challenges facing the local industry and possible solutions for them
J OHAN BEZUIDENHOUT, MD OF RICHLINE S A, WAS elected as the new Chairperson of the JCSA during the council’s annual general meeting, which took place on 24 August in Illovo, Johannesburg.
Bezuidenhout has consistently demon-strated his commitment to the industry and his passion for driving growth. Prior to joining Richline SA, he held key executive positions spanning multiple industries where he honed his skills in operations management, business development and strategic planning.
We asked him about his new role and the industry in general.
How has the local industry changed over the past two decades?
It’s undergone significant changes. The increase and fluctuation in gold prices, global trends and the weakening of the local economy post Covid-19 all played a part in reshaping the industry.
• Global market integration: SA’s jewellery industry has increasingly integrated into the global market. Global agreements like AGOA afforded the industry more opportunities for South African jewellery products being exported and, in turn, international designs influencing local trends and production.
• Economic challenges: The South African economy has faced challenges such as fluctuating exchange rates, economic slowdowns and political instability, which have negatively impacted consumer spending on luxury items like jewellery. These, in turn, have led to a shift towards more affordable jewellery options imported into the South African market – to the detriment of the local industry.
• Sustainable and ethical jewellery: There’s been a growing demand for sustainable and ethically sourced jewellery, which has forced the jewellery industry in SA to invest in resources and programmes that result in responsible jewellery practices.
• Customisation and personalisation: Consumers are investing in more personalised and unique pieces, leading to a rise in bespoke jewellery. The ability to customise jewellery has become a significant selling point.
• Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS): SA’s been an active participant in the Kimberley Process, a global initiative to prevent the trade of conflict diamonds. This has impacted the way diamonds are sourced, certified and sold within the country.
• Mining legislation: Changes in mining regulations, such as BBBEE policies, have influenced the ownership and management of mining companies, including those involved in precious metals and gemstones.
• Laboratory-grown diamonds: The global trend towards lab-grown diamonds has also reached SA, with consumers increasingly considering these as a costeffective alternative to mined stones. The trend has sparked a mindset of continuously searching for new ways of producing and selling affordable, quality jewellery products during tough economic times which are persisting globally.
• Covid-19: The pandemic had a significant impact on the jewellery industry as a whole, with a shift towards online marketing and sales. That, in turn, resulted in a decline in traditional retail. It also positively impacted the demand for
sustainable and locally made jewellery. Overall, the South African jewellery industry has become more resilient, diverse, innovative and globally connected.
What are some of the biggest challenges facing the South African jewellery industry?
• Economic instability: crime, corruption, political uncertainty and an inefficient public procurement framework, coupled with a highly volatile South African rand, negatively impact growth in our industry and contribute to a lack of investor confidence and long-term sustainability.
• Rising costs of precious metals and gemstones impact profit margins for our industry.
• The local industry faces strong competition from imported jewellery products and raw materials from countries where the labour input and production
Overall, the South African jewellery industry has become more resilient, diverse, innovative and globally connected.
costs are much lower.
• Complex mining regulations: The mining sector, which supplies much of the raw material for the jewellery industry, is heavily regulated. This adds to the costs for the industry and results in lower foreign investment, hampering the growth of the sector.
• Skills shortages resulting from experienced qualified artisans/jewellers leaving the industry due to compliance with complex regulations.
What are possible solutions to these challenges?
Creating an inclusive environment that will encourage young, creative South Africans of all races to become involved and forge careers in the industry, as well as encouraging more local beneficiation, which will ensure that more value-added products, such as polished diamonds and finished jewellery, are available for the local market. This could involve
government incentives for companies that engage in beneficiation.
It’s important to address competition from global markets by promoting South African jewellery brands and levelling the playing field through higher import duties on finished jewellery products, as well as investing in training and education in the industry to compete with global players by creating apprenticeships and mentorship programmes.
Finally, strengthening collaboration between government and the jewellery industry through public-private partnerships will drive industry growth. This could include joint initiatives to promote exports, improve infrastructure and support innovation.
How do you spend your downtime?
I enjoy being with family and friends around a fire, preferably in the bush, or going on a park run with friends on a Saturday.
What excites you about Monday mornings?
The fact that I have an exciting, challenging job in which I can play a part in creating a sustainable environment that will create employment opportunities for those who come after me.
Examining the seven value factors
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) identified colour, uniformity of colour, origin, size, clarity, shape and cut as the seven quality factors that influence the value of coloured gemstones
Cutters prefer rough that is transparent and without many inclusions. Some gems are rarely eye-clean, so some inclusions become acceptable in those materials. Since colour is the highest priority for coloured gems, the way a cutter manages the light as it enters and exits a gem becomes an exercise in artistry. Ruby rough with a deeply saturated red colour and free from even minor inclusions under 10x magnification will produce gems of noteworthy face-up colour and appearance, even if the fashioning is poor. However, if the
faceting washes out the colour or muddies its colour by mixing dichroic shades, the cutter has failed miserably.
Colour is king!
In colour science, there are three dimensions to colour: hue (red, green, blue, etc), saturation (intensity or richness of a colour) and tone (lightness or darkness). However, when evaluating the colour of coloured gemstones, there is another aspect to consider: uniformity of colour.
Our eyes see colour as seven colours of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. All these colours are made of rays of light, each one travelling at different speeds with different wavelengths. When all of the colours combine, we see them as white light. When white light enters a coloured gem, part of the light can be absorbed. For instance, if a gemstone absorbs all of the colours except blue, only the blue will be visible and we see the gemstone as blue.
The optimal colour range (combination of hue, saturation and tone) for each gem is different and for many gems, availability in the optimal colour can be scarce. Pale colours usually have a relatively low value. However, pale blue-green (or mint) tourmaline from Afghanistan/Pakistan commands much higher prices than its more saturated counterparts from the same source.
Wayne Emery (The Gem Cutter) says some retailers have learnt that there are customers who prefer less saturated stones because they appear to be brighter and have more sparkle. Thus, these gems might sell more quickly than the more saturated (and expensive) ones. From the jeweller’s point of view, inventory turnover is very important and can result in much more profit over time. For this reason, some retailers prefer to use gems of lesser saturation in their designs to cater to this customer base.
Gems which are so dark that it is difficult to see through them are more difficult to sell, so their price usually drops significantly.
Uniformity of colour
Any uneven distribution of colour within a gemstone is called colour zoning.
a value curve. Since uniformity of colour is a mark of most fine gems, an increase in face-up colour zoning is usually regarded negatively. To better observe colour zoning, turn the gem upside down on a white piece of paper and look for uneven colouration. You will probably not see this in some gems, such as peridot or topaz. Now turn it face-up. Can you see the same colour zones or splotches of darker or lighter colour than you saw when the gem was upside down? Placing the stone in a clear jar with water (or vegetable or baby oil – do not use oil with amber), set on a white background, can help you see colour zoning in a gem.
Location or country of origin
For many coloured gems, the country of origin, or the mining location, greatly affects the value. For example, this is truer and more extreme for an untreated sapphire of intense blue colour from Kashmir, which is worth far
more than a similar sapphire mined elsewhere. An origin report from a laboratory is required in validating the gem’s value when highly regarded locations can significantly increase its price.
Size
Size, which includes the weight and face-up diameter of each type of gem material, is also directly related to value. As the size increases to that of high demand, the price per carat goes up. Some gems are rarely seen above a couple of carats (eg benitoite), while others can weigh thousands of carats (eg quartz and topaz).
Once gems get beyond a size that is common for jewellery, the number of interested buyers decreases significantly and the relative value per carat diminishes. However, exceptionally large gems of superior colour (gems that are not too dark) can be very expensive, particularly when they come from locations known for exceptional colour. That is because large sizes are rarely available from those locations. except as nearblack gems.
Subject to various issues with the rough material, the yield – the final carat weight of the gem compared with the initial weight of the rough – can be as high as 50% (very rarely) or as low as a few percent; cutters evaluate the various pros and cons when planning to cut the gem. Sometimes the saturated colours only appear in larger sizes (eg kunzite or aquamarine), so small gems of saturated colour are rare and surprisingly expensive.
Conversely, if a deeply saturated rough is cut into a larger gem, it can be too dark and not as valuable. A uniformly coloured piece of rough yields gems of different colour intensity as the sizes and proportions vary. For example, a gem cut from light-coloured rough is considered attractive if it reaches a certain size to produce enough colour saturation. In this case, a cutter might cut one large, deep gem, rather than several lightly coloured, well-cut ones.
Since colour is the highest priority for coloured gems, the way a cutter manages the light as it enters and exits a gem becomes an exercise in artistry.
Clarity
Clarity is an important value factor because gems are cut to sparkle and show off their colour in intriguing ways. If there are flaws that interrupt that sparkle, the gem is less interesting. Hence there is a value curve related to clarity which is also true for each type of gem. Some gem materials are almost always found with inclusions, while others are commonly eye-clean (inclusions cannot be seen without magnification).
There are some inclusions that actually help the value of specific gems. For example, microscopic light-scattering inclusions enhance the colour uniformity in Kashmir sapphire by deflecting light into areas where it would not normally go. The resulting velvety appearance of Kashmir sapphires adds value. Sunstone is also aided by light amounts of schiller (extremely tiny copper inclusions that create a cloud-like appearance), which can add value in the right locations.
Shape
Demands for shape (a gem’s outline) and certain cutting styles have evolved and changed over the years. Certain shapes, often coupled with certain cutting styles, are more popular now because they work better with current jewellery designs. Other shapes are hard to sell as few people desire them, or they only work in a few designs. For instance, pear shapes are rarely sold for anything other than pendants and earrings, limiting their market. The creativity of the designer can help sell certain shapes by creating a unique appeal for a shape that is commonly avoided.
Some gem materials, such as tourmaline, are rarely cut as round shapes. Tsavorite garnet is not often fashioned as an emerald cut. Yet these shapes in these materials sell for more when available. Other materials are almost exclusively seen as round (Montana sapphire) or emerald cut (emeralds). The curve that reflects the current popularity of certain shapes and cutting styles, as well as their position on the curve, will change over time as demand shifts with fashion trends.
Clarity is an important value factor because gems are cut to sparkle and show off their colour in intriguing ways. If there are flaws that interrupt that sparkle, the gem is less interesting.
Cutting quality
Let us state the obvious: jewellery and gems are personal and are a reflection of the person who wears them. Therefore, why would we want choices that do not look great?
When centre (or main) pavilion facets are cut too shallow for that gem material, light passes through so that we see what is behind the gem. This is called windowing. If we can see the girdle reflecting under the table, it is called a fish-eye. As dirt accumulates around the edge of the mounting, that girdle reflection will be the colour of the built-up dirt (often grey or brown). These cutting styles are rarely attractive.
An exceptionally well-cut stone can add more to a gem’s value. In today’s market, a number of gem cutters are known as “artists”. Gems from named artists can have significant additional value due to the artist’s popularity.
The impact of cutting on a gem’s value is proportionate to its rarity. An extremely rare piece of rough sapphire that sells for tens of thousands of dollars does not necessarily double in price when cut. It has added value, due to the cutting, but only a small percentage. Compare that with the value added to a piece of ametrine rough that may have cost a few hundred dollars, but is then cut by a named artist.
#gemobsessed
The Cape Townbased gemstone supplier is an allfemale-run business, sourcing gorgeous gemstones from all over the world
AJANTA AFRIKA FIRST OPENED ITS DOORS IN 2006 AND IS VERY WELL ESTABLISHED IN THE SOUTH African jewellery industry. Owner and founder Adine Lutz personally sources all gemstones and travels to follow the trends, looking for unusual pieces to complement the range of standard stock their jewellers always need. "We have an extensive range and only work with natural gemstones. I do think it's good to specialise and not confuse clients by offering both natural and synthetic stones,” says Lutz. “We have the most amazing ladies running our office in Cape Town. Between them, they have many years of experience in retail, wholesale and manufacturing. Their product knowledge and passion are incredible and they’re always friendly, with wonderful energy.”
We have a stone for every occasion and our team is eager to help our clients find the perfect fit.
Ajanta Afrika specialises in quality stones. Its range consists of its “bread-and-butter” items, as Lutz calls it, as well as a wide variety of special cuts, individual and unique pieces and rare beauties. Its offerings change regularly and Ajanta Afrika always aims to help its clients with special orders and cuts.
“We pride ourselves on friendly and efficient service. Whether you come into our office to select or ask us to do so on your behalf and ship it out, we do it all. We’re a member of the Jewellery Council of SA and our reputation in the industry is of the utmost importance on every level. We only deal with the trade and always refer retail enquiries to a reputable jeweller.
“Gemstones are cut in a process where rough crystal’s polished to perfectly enhance the colour, clarity and sparkle of the gem. Much consideration’s given to choosing the best shape and cut to bring the true magic of the gem to life. This is specifically the case with coloured stones, to capture the greater concentration of the shade for perfect appearance from the gem’s surface. Choosing the shape, the type of cut and the facets used to display the absolute beauty of each stone
is a true art,” says Lutz.
“From below the surface of the earth, the rough stone is transformed into a polished gem to be worn in the jewellery that adorns us, the symbols of our love and commitment to another. Gems have a strong connection to origin and through the ages, they’ve had meanings attributed to them, spiritually and as talismans, for protection and to attract good fortune. Gems are valued by their beauty, brilliance, intensity of colour, durability and rarity.”
Ajanta Afrika offers a unique and diverse collection of gems. “We have a stone for every occasion and our team is eager to help our clients find the perfect fit,” says Lutz.
Gemstone jewellery manufacturing “It’s important to note that special care needs to be taken when working with and setting certain gems, as some stones are more sensitive to heat and pressure in the jewellery-making process and there’s a risk of them breaking or being blemished if they aren’t handled correctly,” cautions Lutz. “Not all stones are safe in an ultrasonic cleaner or when heat is applied to the metal and touches the gem.
“The stones that shouldn’t be placed in an ultrasonic cleaner are ones that are heavily included, are very soft, are brittle or have been colour-treated or enhanced (eg opal, turquoise, pearls, amber, coral and lapis lazuli). We also specifically protect emeralds, tanzanites, black and other included diamonds from ultrasonic cleaners and heat.
“Great care should be taken when working with unconventional diamonds, such as black ones, because due to their natural porosity, they can become discoloured when placed in an ultrasonic cleaner, or develop a white blemish on the surface if heat’s applied too closely to them. The same goes for salt-and-pepper and other more included or mottled diamonds,” advises Lutz.
Ajanta Afrika's website showcases approximately 4 000 products, as well as price lists. Members of the trade simply need to register on the website to be approved as a wholesale buyer to access its array of products and information.
Tips for jewellery design competition success
Omphile Sibanda, the 2016 runner-up of the SLA competition and the technical advisor for this year’s awards roadshows, has some valuable tips for aspiring designers seeking to enter competitions of this nature
SOUTH AFRICA HAS BEEN CUTTING
diamonds and making jewellery for years, but in many ways, playing in these spaces – from jewellery design all the way to retail – has been reserved for a select few.
True transformation in this area requires that businesses in the industry enable access to markets and devise market development programmes, to ensure that the benefits trickle down to ordinary citizens. The De Beers Shining Light Awards (SLA) are one such initiative. For more than 25 years, they have positively impacted the lives of many young jewellery designers. These awards do not simply hand over a monetary prize – they develop the finalists through education, exposure to local and international markets, and enterprise development.
However, competitions can be quite daunting, especially to those who have no foothold in the industry.
Here are Omphile’s top recommendations:
Embrace your authenticity: Sibanda stresses the importance of being true to yourself. “To make a mark, you have to involve yourself,” she says. “Be authentic and true to what you believe in. Your unique perspective is what will make your designs stand out.”
Merge different styles: Facing the challenge of blending her “streetwear” style with the high-end aesthetics usually associated with De Beers, Sibanda successfully amalgamated them. “The challenge was how to meet the
To make a mark, you have to involve yourself. Be authentic and true to what you believe in. Your unique perspective is what will make your designs stand out.
criteria while staying true to my style,” she says. “I tasked myself with merging the two without leaving myself behind.”
Overcome intimidation: Feeling overwhelmed at the outset is normal, she says. “I was very intimidated and I think a lot of kids feel the same. However, I imagined myself as a finalist and was driven by what it would look like on the other side.”
Be generous with your ideas: When submitting entries, do not hold back, she says. “Share as much as you can when it comes to mood boards and motivations. It’s a map of how your mind works. And remember, the entries are often online, so rather share more.”
Engage with your audience: Sibanda highlights the importance of content creation and connecting with your audience. “I’ve taken my clients and social media followers on a journey throughout my career, turning them into brand evangelists,” she notes. “Studio Pea grew through social media and by trying ideas that were unusual.”
Find your niche: Align your work with your personal interests and understand the niche to which you cater. Sibanda advises: “Test things – you don’t always have to be conventional. I understand the type of niche I cater for and align everything with my personal interests.”
The theme of this year’s awards is “Luxury Redefined” and Sibanda says that for her, luxury now means comfort and a sense of belonging. “When you buy something that resonates with you, you’re more likely to under-consume,” she says. “It’s not about simply getting more stuff, but about finding items that make you feel at ease.”
Securely managing your digital footprint
Our expanding digital footprint, including what we share on social media and via e-mail, places us at growing risk of identity theft, data breaches and cybercrime, says Ivaan Captieux, Information Security Consultant at Galix
Risky business
MANAGING YOUR ONLINE PRESENCE IS CRITICAL TO safeguarding your privacy and security, so it is imperative to take a proactive approach, including the use of robust cyber-security best practices. However, these tools alone are not enough. Working with a managed security service provider (MSSP) can help both businesses and individuals securely manage their digital footprint and effectively mitigate the risk in an increasingly digital world.
Having an extensive digital footprint comes with heightened risk, including identity theft. Many online interactions result in the capturing of Personally Identifiable Information (PII), such as an identity number, full name, date of birth, physical address and more. Often, we give consent for this information to be shared, which reduces our privacy and enables companies to perform targeted advertising. In addition, if this data is not managed effectively, it is at risk of being captured and harvested by cybercriminals. When sensitive data is leaked or compromised, it can have life-long repercussions, including negatively affecting your future job prospects and social standing. Those with malicious intent can use this stolen information to carry out criminal or
fraudulent activities, including taking out loans and opening accounts in your name, which can negatively affect your credit rating and leave you liable for bills you cannot afford to pay.
Aside from the direct impact of identity theft, criminals can also use this information, as well as the things many people share freely on social media, such as the names of their children, the schools they go to and the places they visit, to develop extremely convincing spearphishing attacks. Using a combination of personal information and artificial intelligence (AI), cybercriminals can
create convincing fakes that can be used for a variety of nefarious purposes.
Proactive protection
Anything we put into the public domain –especially on social media – could potentially be stolen and used against us. When in doubt, do not share it. There are also proactive measures you can take to manage your digital footprint more effectively. One thing we absolutely should be doing is using strong, unique passwords, because this significantly reduces the risk of an account being compromised. It can be tedious, but there are secure tools to assist, like password managers that generate and store them for you.
It is important to ensure we apply multi-factor authentication (MFA) wherever possible. This is considerably more secure than two-factor authentication (2FA), which is becoming less effective as attacks evolve. While 2FA uses something you know (like a password) and something you have (like a one-time PIN), passwords are easily compromised – often because people choose easily guessed passwords or re-use them – and PINs can be intercepted. MFA adds another layer of security: something related to who you are (biometrics like fingerprints or facial recognition), which is far more difficult for cybercriminals to crack.
It is also essential to regularly review the privacy settings on any online platform we use. This can be time-consuming, but it is critical to reducing and managing our digital footprint.
Having a partner in your corner
Working with an MSSP can help individuals and businesses better manage and secure their digital footprints with a variety of products and services. For example, MSSPs can monitor the dark web for compromised personal information and alert individuals and businesses if their data is compromised. If a compromise is detected, an MSSP can provide
guidance and education on best practices and proactive steps to address the breach. They can also offer insight into how to prevent this from happening in the first place. MSSPs can assist in implementing data protection strategies that involve identifying and classifying information based on its sensitivity, as well as encrypting data both in transit and at rest. For organisations, MSSPs can also do vulnerability assessments and penetration testing to identify and address weaknesses in defence and help to prevent exploits that could compromise data.
Individuals (and many businesses) lack the budget and necessary skills and resources to effectively manage their digital presence. This can, in turn, result in a lack of security measures, as well as a lack of visibility into the risks. MSSPs offer scalable solutions tailored to needs and budgets delivered with the specialised skills required to comprehensively and securely manage digital footprints of all shapes and sizes.
Those with malicious intent can use stolen information to carry out criminal or fraudulent activities, including taking out loans and opening accounts in your name, which can negatively affect your credit rating and leave you liable for bills you cannot afford to pay.
BRANDS PORTFOLIO
Top engagement ring trends of 2024
2024 is bringing with it fresh selections, especially for customers who are enticed by non-traditional ring styles.
There are few things customers purchase with the intention of wearing them every day – with the exception of an engagement ring, which represents the eternity of love and commitment. As such, it is a significant investment – both in terms of sentiment and financial value – for a client
WHILE TRADITIONAL ENGAGEMENT RING trends and classic shapes will never go out of fashion, 2024 is bringing with it fresh selections, especially for customers who are enticed by non-traditional ring styles.
The all-time solitaire
A single diamond, which represents the uniqueness and longevity of love, mounted in an exciting setting on a plain band, will always be the ultimate engagement ring – especially for those with a traditional streak, who prefer simplicity. For this design, the round brilliant cut is still the most popular, although fancyshaped diamonds are also a great option.
Toi et Moi – the two-stone ring
Celebrities such as Megan Fox, Ariana Grande and Emily Ratajkowski all received two-stone Toi et Moi (“You and I”) rings, combining two different gems with unusual shapes.
These rings symbolise the coming together of two people with different personalities and needs. The beauty of a Toi et Moi engagement ring lies in the symbolism of togetherness and the way the stones are positioned.
The three-stone (trilogy) ring
The trilogy ring recently saw a resurgence. For some, it represents the past, the present and the future, denoting the different stages of a couple’s journey together. For others, it symbolises the sacred triad of the Father, the Son and the Holy Trinity.
Colourful gemstones
Coloured stones are more popular than ever. Modern couples prefer bold, bright gems to represent their love and often choose emeralds, morganites or sapphires as centre stones.
Mixed metal
Sometimes referred to as two-tone settings, these rings blend two or more metals in one chic, distinctive design. Combining warmer- and cooler-toned metals creates an accessible, effortless look that can be styled in various ways.
Gender-neutral rings
Gender-neutral rings have become more readily available and simple, gender-fluid designs are continuing to gain popularity. Celebrities like Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa and Kylie Jenner opted for this trend.
Forever nostalgia
Antique engagement rings are highly soughtafter – but finding a one-of-a-kind heirloom piece in good condition is a challenge. No-one wants worn-down claws and loose stones that could fall out. One can create a vintage look by using crafting techniques such as milgrain, hand-engraving, draping and filigree.
Stacks
Stacked rings have grown in popularity. They allow the wearer to be creative with shapes and combinations and will highlight a centre stone.
Oval shapes
Oval diamonds have seen a recent boom in popularity. The soft oval shape lengthens the appearance of fingers, as it guides the eye along them. The shape lends itself to Toi et Moi and trilogy rings.
Hidden diamond details
Many rings feature diamonds set in unusual places in the design, such as hidden halos below the girdle of the centre stone or within the claws holding it. The old idea of a diamond mounted inside the band – invisible when worn, as the precious secret of the wearer – is also making a comeback.
Black beauties
Black diamond engagement rings are enjoying a surge in popularity as couples seek something different.
Gem & Jewel. A cut
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Working with the jewellery industry requires a detailed understanding of its unique requirements and with years of experience in developing niche insurance products, Bryte is one of South Africa’s leaders in providing cover for retail, wholesale and manufacturing jewellers, gem cutters and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, tender houses and dealers, goldsmiths, diamond and metal processors and refiners.
Just as we know that one size does not fit all, we also appreciate that standard commercial cover is the wrong fit for these customers.
Contact us so we can show you what type of specialist cover the jewellery industry has enjoyed for over 23 years.
Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division is excited to offer you our Gem & Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council.
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Monthly educational insert
FEATURE ARTICLE
Gems & Gemology
Fall 2022, Vol 58, No 3
Methods and Challenges of Establishing the Geographic Origin of Diamonds
Evan M. Smith, Karen V. Smit, and Steven B. Shirey
There is growing interest in developing methods to deduce the geographic origin of diamonds. Most approaches have focused on trace elements within diamonds, which can be sensitive recorders of geological conditions during the growth of minerals. Gem-quality diamonds have ultra-low concentrations of trace elements, making them extremely challenging to analyze quantitatively. Nonetheless, high-quality trace element data from multiple studies reveal complex and variable patterns, but with striking similarities and overlap between worldwide deposits. Diamond properties such as trace element or isotopic characteristics vary as a function of geological conditions that are not necessarily distinct and resolvable between diamonds of different geographic origin. We conclude that there has been no study by any method demonstrating unique and measurable characteristics that would allow for independent provenance determination of a random individual diamond. For now and the foreseeable future, the only definitive method to establish diamond origin depends on preserving and retaining origin information from the time of mining.
Some famous diamonds, such as the Hope, the Cullinan, and the 404.2 ct “4 de Fevereiro” diamond in figure 1, have highprofile histories that include their geographic provenance. Other diamonds with a known origin can occasionally be sourced in the marketplace or directly from miners. But for the majority of diamonds, this information is not preserved, instead becoming obscured as they move through the supply chain. To some extent, diamond provenance has not been seen as a valuable piece of information and is not presented as a relevant pricing factor the way it sometimes is for some other gemstones. Rough diamonds are typically bought and sold in lots or parcels based on physical characteristics, including color, clarity, size, and morphology. In assembling these parcels, it is common practice to mix diamonds of similar character from different mines. Faceted diamonds are sold mainly on the basis of the 4Cs (color, cut, clarity, and carat weight) and may be mixed further.
Beyond the historical or scientific interest in provenance, several recent developments have put diamond origin at the forefront of conversations in the industry and among consumers. Initially, this was driven by a need to track conflict diamonds and prevent their entrance into the trade. Now, with mounting global sustainability efforts across all industries, consumers are interested in knowing the origin and impact of the goods they purchase. These social pressures have prompted direct efforts, by both privately and publicly funded research groups, to search for distinct geographic signatures among diamonds (e.g., Watling et al., 1995; McNeill et al., 2009; Dalpé et al., 2010; Rege et al., 2010; Coney et al., 2012; Melton et al., 2012; Brill et al., 2020; McManus et al., 2020).
A common goal has been to develop a database of measurable characteristics to compare diamonds from different sources. Trace element characteristics, in conjunction with other observations, have proven useful for origin determination of other gem materials (see box A). Similarly, trace element analysis using mass spectrometry has been regarded as the most promising approach for diamonds (Watling et al., 1995; McNeill et al ., 2009; Dalpé et al ., 2010; Rege et al ., 2010; Coney et al ., 2012; Melton et al ., 2012; Brill et al ., 2020). One study has also used laser-induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) for this application (McManus et al ., 2020). This article will discuss these methods and the challenges they face. The reality at the moment is that there is no scientifically robust method to determine the geographic origin of any given diamond (Dalpé et al ., 2010; Cartier et al ., 2018; Krebs et al ., 2019). All current, reliable, and available means of establishing provenance depend on retaining countryof-origin and/or mine-of-origin information, rather than determining this analytically.
DIAMOND FORMATION AND ITS GEOLOGICAL FRAMEWORK
One of the significant concepts emerging from the past century of diamond research is that there are many different ways diamonds can form, with the pertinent variables being the host rock type, the composition of the diamond-forming fluid or melt, and the depth of formation (lithospheric or sublithospheric) (Shirey et al., 2013). There are distinct varieties of diamond that arise in nature, and, crucially, these varieties do not appear to have unique geographic distributions overall.
In general, diamonds form as carbon-bearing fluids flow through rocks in the mantle and the carbon crystallizes due to chemical reactions or changes in pressure or temperature. Studying the interior of diamonds with cathodoluminescence has revealed that many diamonds exhibit multiple concentric growth layers, resulting from multiple fluid pulses and episodes of growth (figure 2; Shirey et al., 2013). The layers can have
Figure 1. A remarkable 404.2 ct type IIa rough diamond recovered at the Lulo mine in Angola in 2016. The main stone fashioned from it was a 163.4 ct D-color flawless emerald-cut diamond. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
BOX A: COMPARISON OF DIAMONDS TO OTHER GEMSTONES
Methodologies for geographic origin determination of rubies, emeralds, and other gem materials cannot readily be applied to diamonds. This is due to fundamental differences between diamonds and other gem materials. Diamonds form in the mantle, much deeper than most other gemstones. Except for some mantle-derived olivine/peridot, most other gemstones form in the earth’s crust at relatively shallow depths.
Minerals in the crust are the product of multiple melting and differentiation processes that over time have created the crust. These processes concentrate certain elements (known as incompatible elements), which tend to partition into magma as rocks melt. Consequently, crustal rocks have relatively high concentrations of these otherwise rare incompatible elements. When gemstones form within crustal rocks, they naturally inherit higher concentrations of incompatible elements. Furthermore, the crust has great diversity in chemical composition, in contrast to the mantle’s more uniform composition. Because of the chemical diversity of different geological environments in the crust, gemstones formed in different crustal environments often have markedly different trace element compositions. For example, rubies can exhibit differences in certain trace elements (magnesium, titanium, vanadium, iron, and gallium) based on their formation in igneous (basaltic and lamprophyric), metamorphic (granulitic and metalimestone), and metasomatic (skarn and pegmatitic) environments (Palke et al., 2019b).
In some cases, it is possible to relate specific compositional features in these gemstones to the compositions of known and exposed crustal rocks in the different geologic settings. Determining trace element concentrations within crustal gemstones allows constraints to be placed on the geological setting they formed in, potentially allowing their geographic origin to be inferred. However, distinguishing crustal gemstones that are from the same kind of geological setting but from different geographic locations remains challenging.
distinct carbon isotope compositions (δ13C), nitrogen concentrations, nitrogen isotope compositions (δ15N) (Stachel et al., 2022b), and perhaps other characteristics as well, such as trace element contents. Diamond trace element and isotopic composition are controlled by the elements present in the parental carbon-bearing fluid, varying with the extent of interaction between the fluid and surrounding host rock minerals (Weiss et al., 2015).
Multiple layers of evidence, including geochemical and inclusion characteristics, often must be combined in order to better assess a gemstone’s origin.
This challenge is even more pronounced for diamonds. Diamonds formed in the same kinds of geological settings are found spread across many different geographic locations. The majority of diamonds form in the thick and ancient portions of the continental lithospheric mantle. There are three main host rock types – peridotite, eclogite, and websterite – that are composed primarily of different proportions of only four minerals: olivine, orthopyroxene, clinopyroxene, and garnet. Compared to crustal rocks, the rocks of the mantle have limited mineralogical and chemical variability. Furthermore, the covalently bonded diamond lattice is extremely compact and regular, composed of only one major element, and cannot easily accommodate the addition of substitutional and interstitial impurity elements. Only a few elements, such as hydrogen, boron, nitrogen, silicon, and nickel, fit into the diamond lattice. Other trace elements in diamond are thought to be present as nano-inclusions of fluid rather than occupying discrete crystal lattice sites (Melton et al., 2012; Krebs et al., 2019). Consequently, as a diamond grows, it incorporates extremely low levels of trace elements compared to other minerals. Nitrogen, however, is a notable exception.
Nitrogen is the most common impurity in natural diamond. It can substitute for carbon in the diamond lattice, typically at concentrations of tens to hundreds of parts per million (ppm). Diamond has a median nitrogen value of 160 ppm, with 99% being <1400 ppm (Stachel, 2014). It can occur as isolated nitrogen atoms (C centers), as aggregated pairs (A centers), or as groups of four atoms plus a vacancy (B centers) (Breeding and Shigley, 2009). Unfortunately, the nitrogen concentration and its degree of aggregation overlap completely among diamonds from around the world and cannot be used to determine geographic origin.
The products of diamond formation in the earth’s mantle are surprisingly similar across many different localities. Categorizing diamonds based on their mineral inclusions provides much of the basis for our understanding of different geological varieties of diamond. The major geological varieties defined by inclusion mineralogy are shown in table 1. These represent diamonds from the lithospheric mantle, formed at approximately 150–200 km, and exclude the rarer (<2%)
sublithospheric or “superdeep” varieties of diamonds (Smith et al., 2017; Stachel et al., 2022a).
Diamonds we see at the earth’s surface have been carried up in magmas that form kimberlites (or, less commonly, lamproites). The magma rips up pieces of diamond-hosting mantle rocks hundreds of kilometers below the surface. During this journey, mantle rocks break apart and release diamonds into the magma, forming so-called xenocrysts (crystals foreign to the magma). Individual kimberlite deposits at the surface often contain multiple populations of diamonds mixed together, which could have originally crystallized in completely independent and episodic diamond-forming events within different host rocks. The spatial and temporal scale of diamond-forming events at depths in the mantle is not well understood because it is never exposed. Multiple eruption phases of a kimberlite may sample different portions of the lithosphere. Compiling a complete picture of diamond characteristics from any given deposit means taking into account multiple dissimilar populations. Depending on the nature of the deposit, it could be difficult to judge whether a sample suite of diamonds is truly representative of that deposit. The situation may be more complex for alluvial deposits, which may contain diamonds eroded from multiple primary known or unknown kimberlite/lamproite sources.
The known geological varieties of diamond, including the major categories outlined in table 1, are not geographically restricted. Diamond properties are a function of geology, not geography, and the geological controls for the most common varieties of diamond result in broad, overlapping similarities between many geographic settings. For example, the most well-studied diamonds, found in most deposits around the
world, formed within harzburgite (a type of peridotite) host rocks, at comparable pressure and temperature conditions, from carbon-bearing fluids of similar composition (Shirey et al., 2013). These are the kinds of diamonds that contain rare vibrant purple Cr-pyrope garnets. The diamond exploration strategy is to search for these garnets and other indicator minerals released by fragmentation of diamond-hosting rocks and dispersed in surficial sediments. The success of the strategy is underpinned by the fact that the predominant diamond formation processes are often similar from one deposit to the next worldwide. Searching for kimberlitic indicator minerals with the same composition as those from existing mines is an effective technique for finding new diamond-bearing kimberlites (Kjarsgaard et al., 2019).
Figure 2. Cathodoluminescence (CL) images of polished surfaces through the interior of two diamonds from the Attawapiskat area of the Superior Craton (Canada), obtained by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Both diamonds have a large internal range of nitrogen contents, which are governed by different fluid pulses – visible in CL as different growth zones with varying brightness. Secondary ion mass spectrometry (SIMS) spot analyses with δ13C and nitrogen content (atomic ppm) are indicated.
Images from Smith et al. (2014).
Physical Characteristics and Traditional Gemological
Observations. Each diamond deposit encompasses a range of diamond morphologies, surface textures, colors, and other characteristics. Some localities have more visually distinctive rough diamonds than others, which is noticeable upon examining parcels of diamonds from that locality. For example, the Ellendale mine in Australia produced a large proportion of resorbed, smooth-surfaced dodecahedral (or tetrahexahedral) yellow diamonds (Hall and Smith, 1984; Jaques et al., 1986). The Marange alluvial deposit in Zimbabwe has diamonds with a nontransparent coating and radiation damage (Smit et al., 2018), while the Victor mine in Canada has produced a high proportion of well-formed, near-colorless octahedral crystals with few mineral inclusions (“The real value of Victor Project,” 2007).
Of course, these are not the only examples of particular features associated with certain diamond localities. An unusual example is the porous, micro-polycrystalline diamond variety known as carbonado. Although not of gem quality, it is interesting because it is only recovered from placer deposits in Brazil and the Central African Republic (Heaney et al., 2005). As another example, the Cullinan mine in South Africa is known as a chief source of boron-bearing, type IIb diamonds (King et al., 1998). A random type IIb diamond circulating in the marketplace has a reasonable probability of being from Cullinan. The Argyle mine in Australia, which closed in 2020, was a leading producer of pink (and many brown) diamonds. Argyle’s pink diamonds generally have highly aggregated nitrogen (more B centers than A) and a color that is associated with slightly more diffuse pink graining compared to pink diamonds from most other localities, which tend to have less aggregated nitrogen and a pink color associated with sharply defined glide planes (Gaillou et al., 2012). Argyle was also an almost exclusive source of rare blue to violet diamonds whose color is related to hydrogen (Eaton-Magaña et al., 2018). The distinctive characteristics described here are helpful observations in terms of inferring the origin of some specific diamonds or representative and unmixed parcels, but they are certainly not definitive. Experienced professionals can make an educated guess about the origin of diamond parcels, or even an individual diamond, but this judgement is highly subjective and cannot be easily verified. For the majority of polished or rough diamonds, there are no distinct characteristics that reveal the geographic origin.
Carbon and Nitrogen Characteristics.
Carbon and nitrogen might seem to be a good way to fingerprint diamonds, given their high abundances and isotopic variations in this material. Such analyses could be performed on most
diamonds. However, nitrogen abundance variations (measured by infrared absorbance spectroscopy or even imaged with luminescence-based techniques) reveal that the nitrogen content can vary greatly between the growth zones of each diamond (figure 2), not to mention on the scale of millions of diamonds in a single mine.
This variation in nitrogen content is due to the influx of different fluid pulses during diamond growth, each of which may have had a different nitrogen content. Diamonds with an internal tenfold difference in nitrogen content have been documented through secondary ion mass spectrometry (SIMS), a technique that can obtain spatially resolved measurements (see the measurement locations superimposed in figure 2) (Stachel et al., 2022b). These differences are averaged when using bulk analytical techniques such as infrared spectroscopy. Nitrogen abundance variability (within the limited range of possible concentrations) is so pervasive and occurs on such a small scale that nitrogen content alone is not a useful tool to distinguish diamonds from different geological environments.
Figure 3. Within-locality range of δ13C for five well-known localities: Diavik + Ekati (Lac de Gras), Kimberley, Karowe, Cullinan, and Argyle. Delta values (δ13C) express the deviation of the 13C/12C ratio of diamond samples relative to a known standard, expressed in permil (parts per thousand). At each locality, a range of values overlaps between peridotitic (histograms on the left) and eclogitic (histograms on the right) diamonds. There is also large overlap between localities, which makes it impossible to use δ13C as a fingerprinting tool. The vertical grey band marks the main mantle range around –5‰. Data from Stachel et al. (2022b).
Figure 4. Distribution of carbon (δ13C) and nitrogen (δ15N) isotope compositions for worldwide peridotitic and eclogitic diamonds. Delta values (δ13C and δ15N) express the deviation of the 13C/12C and 15N/14N ratios of diamond samples relative to a known standard. Carbon and nitrogen isotope data exhibit distributions that primarily reflect mantle host rock composition, irrespective of geographic origin. Generally, the same distributions are recorded from diamond deposits worldwide. Data from Stachel et al. (2022b).
Both carbon and nitrogen have two stable isotopes (12C, 13C and 14N, 15N), with the lighter atomic mass isotope of each element (12C and 14N) comprising ~99% of the isotopic composition of the respective element. Similar to nitrogen content, the entire global range of both δ13C and δ15N (the part per thousand variation of the 13C/12C and 15N/14N ratios, with respect to a standard) may be represented within one deposit (figures 3 and 4). The main mantle range of δ13C is centered around –5‰, and the global δ13C distributions of diamonds that form in the two main host rocks – peridotite and eclogite – have modes that overlap with this mantle range (figure 4). Consequently, the stable isotope composition of a diamond lends insight into the host rock and fluids from which the crystal formed, but it is not a geographically distinct feature. Even if it were moderately helpful for origin determination, the time-consuming and expensive nature of stable isotope analysis, as well as the formation of ablation pits, makes it unsuitable for routine application to faceted diamonds.
Trace Element Characteristics. Like any mineral, diamond contains minute amounts of elements other than those stated in its mineral formula (see box B). These so-called trace elements may provide a rich geochemical record of the conditions of mineral growth, potentially revealing differences between different deposits. Trace elements can be present at concentrations from many parts per million (ppm) down to parts per billion (ppb), parts per trillion (ppt), or less, so there are enormous ranges of possible concentrations in natural materials.
In transparent, gem-quality diamond, the concentrations of trace elements are extremely low, often in the ppt range, making them especially difficult to measure compared to other minerals. The first pioneering measurements of trace elements in gem-quality diamond were made by instrumental neutron activation analysis (INAA) (Fesq et al., 1973; Bibby, 1982), but the amount and quality of data were limited. It is worth noting that the neutron bombardment of INAA severely damages the appearance of the whole diamond being analyzed.
Later studies have employed laser ablation – inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), a widely used tool for measuring elemental compositions of many geological materials, including gemstones (Liu et al., 2013). Laser ablation involves vaporizing a small amount of the sample material by blasting a tiny crater into it with a laser. The liberated sample particles are ionized in a plasma to form a beam of atomic and small polyatomic ions, which are then continuously separated by mass/charge in a mass spectrometer (figure 5A). This technique has been applied to many gemstones (see review in Groat et al., 2019), including blue sapphire (Palke et al., 2019a), ruby (Palke et al., 2019b), and emerald, all of which contain abundant trace elements that are relatively straightforward to measure.
When it comes to transparent, gem-quality diamond, however, the ultra-low concentration of most trace elements is problematic. The low bulk concentration of trace elements means that high-quality data cannot be obtained by routine
BOX B: WHAT ARE TRACE ELEMENTS?
Most of the rocks and minerals around us are made up of a relatively small selection of elements, including oxygen (O), silicon (Si), aluminum (Al), calcium (Ca), iron (Fe), magnesium (Mg), sodium (Na), and potassium (K), the most abundant elements in the earth’s crust. Just consider the mineral formulas of some common rock-forming minerals: quartz (SiO2), olivine ([Mg,Fe]2SiO4), potassium feldspar (KAlSi3O8), or what is regarded as the most abundant mineral at great depth within the earth, bridgmanite ([Mg,Fe]SiO3). Many elements on the periodic table do not make an appearance as major defining components of minerals and are present only in trace quantities. In geology, the term "trace element" generally refers to those elements making up less than about 0.1% by weight (1000 ppm) of a mineral, rock, magma, or other system (Shaw, 2006). In a mineral, elements given in the mineral formula are essential structural constituents (Hanson and Langmuir, 1978) that impart distinct properties and make up the majority of the material. These are called major elements. The terms "major" and "trace elements" can therefore refer to different elements, depending on
“online” LA-ICP-MS analysis of gem-quality diamond because most elements fall near or below the limit of detection (McNeill et al., 2009). Increasing the laser energy to ablate more diamond in an effort to overcome the low concentration carries the risk of uncontrolled fractionation at the ablation site during sampling and increased diamond destruction. For these reasons, applying routine LA-ICP-MS techniques to gem-quality diamonds yields data that are generally not quantitative and whose uncertainties are difficult to evaluate (McNeill et al., 2009), making them of limited use for investigating diamond paragenesis and potential geographic variability. For example, in a study of 400 monocrystalline (nonfibrous) diamonds analyzed by LA-ICP-MS (Rege et al., 2010), the trace element patterns exhibited strong similarities regardless of geographic locality or geological paragenesis. Early attempts such as this struggled to accurately characterize detection limits or demonstrate that the data produced were significantly different from instrumental background.
Aside from carbon, most elements do not incorporate easily into the diamond crystal lattice as it grows, which is one of the reasons high-clarity diamond crystals have such low trace element concentrations. A few trace elements such as hydrogen, boron, nitrogen, silicon, and nickel (also common in laboratory-
the material in question. Diamond is rather special, being composed solely of one major element, carbon. Other examples are gold, silver, and copper, all of which occur in their native form. In diamond, carbon is the only major element, whereas all other elements in this mineral are only present in trace quantities, often expressed in parts per million (ppm), billion (ppb), trillion (ppt), and so on, by weight.
The concentrations and relative abundances of trace elements can provide information about the way minerals formed. Trace element analysis of diamond has primarily focused on unravelling the geological settings and elements involved in diamond formation, but a secondary goal has been the forensic/gemological application of trying to distinguish geographic origin. The trace elements typically discussed in the context of diamonds include Cs, Rb, Ba, Th, U, Pb, Ta, Nb, La, Ce, Pr, Sr, Nd, Sm, Hf, Zr, Eu, Ti, Gd, Tb, Dy, Y, Ho, Er, Yb, and Lu, as well as the lighter elements H, B, N, O, Na, Mg, Al, Si, Cl, K, Ca, Fe, and Ni.
Figure 5. Simplified schematic of analytical methods. A: Conventional “online” LA-ICP-MS. A gas stream carries the ablated sample directly into the plasma torch, where it is ionized and accelerated as a beam. In the mass spectrometer, ions are separated based on mass/charge and their abundance can be quantified. B: “Offline” laser ablation combined with solution-based ICP-MS. Ablation takes place in a sealed vessel over an extended time, allowing a larger amount of ablated material to accumulate. Dissolving the ablated sample in acid allows it to be analyzed as a solution. C: The laserinduced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) technique. The laser striking the diamond creates a plasma, the emitted light of which can be separated into different wavelengths by a diffraction grating inside a spectrometer. The light spectrum can contain information about the elements and chemical bonding within the sample.
grown diamonds) may be incorporated as defects in the diamond lattice. But the majority of trace elements of geological interest, when they do occur in gem diamond, are thought to be hosted as fluid nano-inclusions that are simply too small and sparse to see (Melton et al., 2012; Krebs et al., 2019, 2020).
In contrast to the ultra-low trace element concentrations in gem-quality diamond, a particular growth habit called fibrou s diamond has diamond trace element concentrations that are at least two to four orders of magnitude greater (Weiss et al., 2008). Fibrous diamond has a cloudy appearance due to abundant sub-micrometer-sized high-density fluid (HDF) inclusions (Navon et al., 1988) and is generally not considered gem-quality because of the diminished clarity. However, the abundance of HDF inclusions in fibrous diamond causes the bulk trace element contents to be high enough to analyze using LA-ICP-MS. Most trace element studies of diamond have focused on fibrous diamond (Tomlinson et al., 2005, 2009; Zedgenizov et al., 2007b; Rege et al., 2010; Smith et al., 2012; Weiss et al., 2013; Klein-BenDavid et al., 2014). Even though these analyses are based on micro-inclusions hosted in diamond and not the diamond itself, there is evidence that similar trace element characteristics exist at lower concentrations in gem-quality diamond that do not contain visible inclusions (Jablon and Navon, 2016; Krebs et al., 2019). This suggests that fibrous diamonds and their HDF inclusions are broadly informative of non fibrous, gem-quality diamonds and provide an additional basis for discussing the prospect of origin determination (see the section “Fibrous Diamonds Bolster Our Insight Into Trace Elements”).
This specialized method for measuring trace elements in diamond involves a pre-concentration step that allows a larger sample to be collected in a controlled fashion. It was developed by McNeill, Pearson, and colleagues at Durham University specifically for analyzing diamond (McNeill et al., 2009). The diamond is placed in an enclosed vessel with a window through which the laser can pass. Ablation takes place within this sealed vessel, allowing the ablated material to accumulate over the course of minutes or even hours. Compared to the direct uninterrupted ablation-to-analysis of LA-ICP-MS, this offline sampling technique means a much larger amount of diamond, and therefore a larger sample of trace elements, can be ablated in a controlled way. The accumulated sample is then taken up in acid and analyzed by conventional solution-based ICP-MS. Analyzing solutions greatly simplifies standardization, circumventing the need for a diamond standard. Appropriate solution standards with elemental concentrations similar to that expected in diamond can easily be prepared. Weighing the diamond before and after ablation gives the mass of
diamond ablated, providing a way to recast results as elemental concentrations within the diamond. Offline ablation allows much higher volumes of analyte to be pre-concentrated before measurement rather than having the ablated material swept directly into a gas stream for analysis, as in LA-ICP-MS, effectively boosting what is known in analytical work as the signal-to-noise ratio by several orders of magnitude.
To measure a signal, having a strong signal and having low background noise are equally important. An example of low signal-to-noise ratio occurs when the noise from city lights prohibits the signal of distant stars from being seen by curious stargazers. In rural areas, background light is so low that even faint signals from stars can be seen.
In analytical work, scientists must pay special attention to the relative contributions of signal and noise. The limit of detection (LOD) provides a threshold level where weak signals cannot be confidently distinguished from background noise. One definition of the LOD is 3× the standard deviation of the blank/ background (Currie, 1968). However, we want to know how much of the element there is, not just that it can be detected. For the exceptionally low trace element contents of most gemquality diamonds, which may be only marginally above the background noise, McNeill et al. (2009) argued that a more stringent limit is needed: the limit of quantification (LOQ). This is defined as 7 to 10× the standard deviation of the blank/ background (Currie, 1968), and it is a better cutoff to ensure that the signal seen above the background can be used to calculate element concentration. Data must exceed the LOQ (the minimum accurate quantifiable value) to be considered truly quantitative. A number of studies have reported conventional online laser ablation results from gem-quality diamonds, but with such low signal-to-noise ratios that LOQ criteria could not be met (Rege et al., 2005, 2010; Coney et al., 2012; Brill et al., 2020). If measurements do not exceed the LOQ, they may carry qualitative meaning, but large uncertainties will obscure comparison between samples, restricting their utility.
Offline laser ablation with ICP-MS enables quantitative trace element data for gem-quality diamond. However, the technique is not without drawbacks. The amount of diamond that must be ablated is large compared to the typical ablation crater involved in conventional LA-ICP-MS of other materials. For example, analyses of most colored gem materials using LA-ICP-MS would involve a spot size of 50-100 μm, meaning that an analysis can be performed on the girdle of a valuable ruby, sapphire, or emerald and would not be visible to the unaided eye.
To be continued in the October issue
DATES: Sunday, 8th September & Monday, 9th September 2024
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Interesting facts
The papal tiara is a crown has been worn by popes of the Catholic Church from as early as the 8th century to the mid–20th century. The name "tiara" refers to the entire headpiece, including the various crowns, circlets and diadems that have adorned it through the ages, while the three-tiered form that it took in the 14th century is also called the triregnum, the triple crown and sometimes the triple tiara.
The water resistance rating on a watch is given by the manufacturer and is based upon three factors: the crown, the case-back and the gaskets. Yet everyday conditions (like changing the battery from time to time) and the ageing of the gaskets might decrease the watch’s resistance to water over time.
The intensity of the colour in an Ethiopian opal is so high that you can see a spectrum in a single gem.
The Robbins Company of Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA, was contracted in 1968 to produce commemorative medallions beginning with Apollo 7, the first crewed Apollo flight since the Apollo 1 disaster. These were purchased by astronauts and support crew personnel at NASA Astronaut Flight Office, and a total of over 3 000 sterling silver Robbins medallions were flown into space across the 12 crewed flights of the Apollo programme. Some of these were later sold in public auction for up to $60 000.
The value of jadeite is based on the level of transparency and depth of colour.
a planet they believe is at least one-third diamond! It was named “55 Cancri e”.
Visitors to the Vatican are not allowed to wear any jewellery which may be considered offensive to Catholic morality, the Catholic religion or common decency.
Image courtesy Matthias Kabel, Wikkimedia Commons
Hoop earrings have been around for thousands of years, with evidence of ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans wearing them as a symbol of status and wealth.
Some sapphires exhibit a unique optical phenomenon known as asterism. These “star sapphires” show a star-like pattern when viewed under a direct light source. This effect is due to the presence of needle-like inclusions of rutile within the sapphire.
Watches were not widely worn in pockets until the 17th century. One account suggests that the word "watch" came from the Old English word woecce – which meant "watchman" – because town watchmen used the technology to keep track of their shifts at work.
Silver is mentioned 320 times in the King James Bible. Judas is believed to have been bribed with 30 pieces of silver to betray Jesus.
Around 70 000 people are supported and employed by the tanzanite mining, cutting and trading industry, worldwide.
Some Venetian glass masters on the island of Murano developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass, glass including gold threads and many creative and revolutionary ways to make stunning glass beads. Venetian glass necklaces were sought after as early as the 1200s and are still made today.
A man in Japan dropped $2 million on a new Lamborghini Aventador. As if that wasn’t enough, he then forked out a further $1 35 million covering the supercar in 1 350 000 Swarovski crystals.
The Fulani people of Africa are widely known for their exquisite crafting of gold jewellery. Normally, their earrings are made of gold that can be up to 12,7cm long.
Small swords were recognised as items of male jewellery. By the 1750s, their elaborate gold and silver hilts, mounted with precious stones and fine enamelling, were the products of the goldsmith and jeweller, rather than the swordsmith. They were often given as rewards for distinguished military and naval service.
Elvis Presley was a jewellery connoisseur with a preference for antique rings, sapphires, yellow gold and diamonds. The majority of his stage outfits consisted of rhinestone jumpsuits and capes, including his “Blue Armadillo” suit that recently sold for $250 000. The King’s TCB mantra featured on several pieces of jewellery including a gold chain necklace and ring that contained 56 diamonds and a 11.5ct solitaire.
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JEWELLERY CONNECTION
Tel no: 011 728 6800
E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za
JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY
Tel no: 083 581 1513
E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com
Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za
JOHANNA VAN ZYL
Tel no: 082 778 5846
E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za
Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za
JOHN 3 JEWELLERY
Tel no: 076 822 8783
E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com
JOHN STEDMAN
T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN
Tel no: 031 572 2902
E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za
Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za
JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC
T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP
Tel no: 046 624 3748
E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net
JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 012 662 2861
E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za
Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/
JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 061 503 6561
E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com
Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com
JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 067 397 6373
E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za
Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/
K2 DESIGN STUDIO
Tel no: 031 940 1274
E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za
Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za
KARLIEN DESIGNS CC
Tel no: 083 659 2607
E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za
Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za
KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO
Tel no: 033 386 7872
E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za
KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC
Tel: 082 451 9429
E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za
KAYRO JEWELLERS
Tel no: 041 585 4842
E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za
KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN
Tel: 083 350 2737
E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com
KHONJE DESIGNS
Tel: 012 460 1569
E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com
KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN
Tel no: 021 531 9082
E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/
KINKEL JEWELLERY
Tel no: 021 786 1549
E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za
KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE
Tel: 011 825 5822
E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com
KRISTEN MALAN CC
Tel no: 011 880 1866
E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com
KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD
Tel: 010 001 6284
E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za
LADY PECULIAR
Tel no: 021 886 8868
E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za
Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za
L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY
Tel no: 011 883 4021
E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za
Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za
LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS
Tel no: 076 586 3820
E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za
LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC
Tel no: 021 887 1655
E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za
LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR
Tel no: 015 293 0214
E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za
LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 011 967 1700
E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za
LOTTI JEWELLERY
Tel no: 079 386 1079
E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za
LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN
Tel no: 011 882 3272
E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com
LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY
Tel no: 082 651 8145
E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com
M2 JEWELLERS CC
Tel no: 012 460 6793
E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com
Website: www.m2jewellery.com
MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY
Tel no: 083 453 7018
E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com
MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS
Tel no: 083 305 2798
E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za
Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za
MAGGIE AFRICA
Tel no: 072 882 2586
E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net
MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES
Tel no: 031 702 4422
E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za
MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 083 641 2724
E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com
Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com
MARINE GOLD CC
Tel no: 021 424 0077
E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za
MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO
Tel no: 041 368 4582/3
E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za
MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH
Tel no: 083 271 6065
E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za
Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/
MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS
Tel: 0727167632
E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com
MASELESELE JEWELLERS
Tel no: 012 734 0245
E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za
Website: www.imfundiso.com
MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS
Tel no: 082 689 0630
E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za
Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/
METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –
OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SEZ
Tel no: 012 000 4440
E-mail: info@MetCon.co.za
Website: www.MetCon.co.za
METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –
CAPE TOWN
Tel no: 021 510 0770
E-mail: salesct@MetCon.co.za
Website: www.MetCon.co.za
METAL IMAGE
Tel no: 021 447 6600
E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com
Website: www.metalimage.co.za
MG IVORY
Tel no: 011 788 1018
E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za
MICHAEL J SOLOMON
MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)
Tel no: 011 792 5292
E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za
MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY
Tel no: 021 913 3944
E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com
Website: www.michljewellery.com
MINITZA
Tel: 082 77 29812
E-mail: info@minitza.co.za
MIRKO JEWELLERY
Tel no: 021 886 8296
E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za
Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/
MOON INVESTMENTS
Tel: 021 551 2066
E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za
MUGA MUGA HANDMADES
Tel no: 072 299 7148
E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za
Website: www.mugamuga.co.za
MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD
Tel: 041 379 1162
E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com
N.N JEWELLERS
Tel: 082 081 8179
E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com
NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN
Tel no: 012 329 9600
E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za
NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 083 384 7792
E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za
Website: www.nilu.co.za/
NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN
Tel: 079 891 7240
E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za
NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO
Tel no: 012 332 5850
E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za
Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/
NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES
Tel no: 073 700 6225
E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com
Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za
NV DESIGN COMPANY
T/A BY NANETTE
Tel no: 021 883 3856
E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com
Website: www.bynanette.com
ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN
Tel no: 021 480 9860
E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com
Website: www.oroafrica.com
OSMOND’S
Tel no: 021 559 8277
E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net
PAUL GALLIAS
Tel no: 073 194 2415
E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com
PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO
Tel no: 011 678 0595/6
E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za
Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/
PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN
Tel: 021 789 0312
E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za
PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS
Tel no: 072 739 6800
E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com
Website: www.phatsimajd.com
PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS
Tel no: 021 423 2771
E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za
Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za
PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 012 549 4966
E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za
Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za
PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY
Tel no: 083 396 6178
E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za
Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/
PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC
Tel no: 031 301 3963
E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za
Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za
PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC
Tel no: 011 702 1462
E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com
Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za
POPULAR DIAMOND
JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC
Tel no: 011 484 7044
E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za
PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY
Tel no: 056 212 1229
E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com
PRECISION SETTERS
Tel no: 011 484 7803/4
E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za
PRETTY FOUND THINGS
Tel no: 083 651 9042
E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com
Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za
PREVIDA & CO
Tel no: 011 701 5074
E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com
PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS
Tel no: 021 422 1090
E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com
Website: www.prinsandprins.com
QUICKSET JEWELLERS
Tel no: 031 468 9236
E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net
Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za
RAMSDEN DIAMONDS
T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel: 011 404 5010
E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za
RAND REFINERY LIMITED
Tel no: 011 418 9000
E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com
RARE EARTH CREATIONS
Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/
REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 011 326 1727
E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za
RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 011 418 1600
E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za
RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 041 374 2101
E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za
RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 082 606 0493
E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za
ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS
Tel no: 082 974 4566
E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za
ROK ORIGINALS
Tel no: 072 203 3288
E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/
ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 011 794 1666
E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/
RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART
Tel no: 021 447 2492
E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za
Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za
SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C
Tel no: 031 306 4921
E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com
SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS
Tel no: 083 233 0910
E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za
SAVAGE JEWELLERY
Tel no: 082 902 2302
E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com
SCANT DESIGN
Tel: 072 339 1885
E-mail: as@scant.co.za
SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC
Tel no: 021 683 4646
E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za
Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za
SEA & SHORE
Tel: 082 742 5343
E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com
SERAGLIO JEWELLERS
Tel no: 011 783 8301
E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com
Website: www.seragliojewellers.com
SHADOW JEWELLERS
Tel no: 082 689 8297
E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com
SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 082 308 2111
E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com
Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/
SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 011 049 3933
E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za
Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za
SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 011 450 3192
E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com
Website: www.silkroutegold.com
SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 011 334 4529
E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za
SIRKEL JEWELLERY
Tel no: 011 726 2365
E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com
Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za
SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 012 460 6771
E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net
Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za
SMITH JEWELLERY
Tel no: 071 313 8649
E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com
Website: www.smith-jewellery.com
STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY
Tel no: 083 775 9995
E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com
Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/
STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 083 379 0171
E-mail: info@studio1980za.com
Website: https://studio1980za.com/
STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN
Tel no: 031 764 3000
E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net
Website: www.studio39.co.za
STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 011 642 7826
E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za
Website: www.studioc.co.za
STUDIO LOUBSER
Tel no: 011 782 4051
E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com
Website: www.studioloubser.com
SUGARBUSH CREATIONS
Tel no: 015 293 2358
E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com
SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD
Tel: 082 779 7084
E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com
TASHA SWART CREATIONS
Tel: 082 523 9982
E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com
THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY
E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za
Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/
THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY
Tel no: 011 854 4556
E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za
Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/
THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST
Tel: 031 303 2396
E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za
THE JEWELLERY HUB
Tel no: 083 326 5746
E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za
Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za
THE MAKERY
Tel no: 082 600 7142
E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com
Website: www.themakerycollection.com
THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR
Tel no: 014 597 0736
E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za
Website: www.tpi.org.za
TINSEL GALLERY
Tel no: 011 782 4051
E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za
Website: https://tinselgallery.com/
TIP TOP JEWELLERS
Tel no: 044 873 3048
E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net
TRIMALCHIO
Tel no: 012 346 6874
E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za
TRISLO (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 012 259 0100
E-mail: info@trislo.co.za
Website: www.trislo.co.za
TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY
Tel no: 012 382 6007
E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za
Website: www.tut.ac.za
UNCUT JEWELLERS
Tel no: 083 225 8221
E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za
Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za
UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG
Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125
E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za
Website: www.uj.ac.za
UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH
Tel no: 021 808 3047
E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za
Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/
VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 021 914 2192
E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za
VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS
Tel no: 031 208 9142/3
E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za
Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za
VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS
Tel no: 011 615 4758
E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com
VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS
Tel no: 031 564 2948
E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com
Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za
VK JEWELLERY
Tel no: 082 789 4498
E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za
Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za
WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS
Tel no: 021 554 1169
E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za
Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za
WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO
Tel no: 011 318 1340
E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za
Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za
YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY
Tel no: 074 136 3633
E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr
ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD
Tel: 010 109 2057
E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com
ZULU MIEN
Tel: 0823344426
E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com
ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD
Tel no: 015 293 2306/58
E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com
Website: www.zurel.co.za
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ANNA-B JEWELLERY www.annab.co.za orders@annab.co.za 071-843-2452
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AFRASIAN DIAMONDS www.afrasiandiamonds.com info@afrasiandiamonds.com (011) 268-6980
BRYTE INSURANCE COMPANY LIMITED www.brytesa.com natasha.maroun@brytesa.com robyn.lambert@brytesa.com (011) 370-9111
BYL DIAMONDS www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000
CAPE PRECIOUS METALS www.capepreciousmetals.com orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za (021) 551-2066 (Cape Town) (011) 334 6263 (Germiston) (031) 303-5402 (Cape Town) (041) 365-1890 (PE/Gqeberha)
GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA) www.gia.edu gia ed/contact us +1-760-603-4000 – global hq
HALCYON www.halcyongroup.co.za halshort@halfin.co.za (043) 726-5321
PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za info@piccolo-jewellery.co.za 083-396-6178
PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za (012) 035 0260
SM WATCH www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com (012) 326-5996
JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA) Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za lornal@jewellery.org.za (011) 484-5528
THE JEWELLERY HUB samantha@thejhub.co.za ian@thejhub.co.za 073-052-7587 / 083-326-5746
JEWELLEX AFRICA jewellex@jewellery.org.za (011) 484-5528 (021) 424-7764
THE TANZANITE COMPANY www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za 082-601-3621 / 083-231-8919
METAL CONCENTRATORS www.metcon.co.za info@metcon.co.za (012) 000-4440
