Estancia Cristina earns its description as remote. In the winter months, the horses roam freely on the land. They’re beautiful creatures, blending into the yellows and browns of the landscape and completely unbothered by the battering wind. We trek towards the mountains, a two-hour journey through a stunning valley accompanied only by the occasional sight of a hare, more horses or the circling condors. A small refuge hut at the edge of Lago Anita provides a welcome sanctuary from the sunny but blusterous ride. One of the Estancia’s gauchos has ridden ahead: the log fire is burning and there is an even-morewelcome spread of meat, cheese and Malbec to greet us. As we warm up, lunch is prepared: flat iron steak sandwiches followed by a dessert of vigilante – cheese topped with sweet potato jelly. The description gives us pause but emboldened by the wine, cautious nibbles soon become enthusiastic bites. Isolated in this hut in the middle of nowhere we exchange stories and cultures with our guides. We share mate and my husband is horrified to discover the number of tiny rules associated with drinking this most Argentine of drinks. Vicente fills the mate with leaves and adds hot water from his flask (an omnipresent accessory). We pass the vessel and sequentially take our sip, remembering not to say thank you unless we’re completely finished, and absolutely not to move the straw. If the food and drink took the chill from our extremities, then arriving in Eolo and stepping into the embrace of the lodge warmed our souls. Valentin, the long-serving manager, makes us feel right at home. The start of the season sees a lot of the staff returning, including the local chef who creates some of the most delicious meals we have all trip. Local lamb melts in the mouth and the fresh raviolis are the best I’ve had outside of Italy. Whisky from the antique English bar is the final touch to an unforgettable stay. Compared to El Calafate, El Chaltén is far quieter. The visitors here are all present for the same reason as us: Fitz Roy. The
peaks loom into view from the road hours before we reach the town and we stop for the obligatory photo. The next morning we set out with our guide, Fede, to hike up to Laguna de Los Tres, in the shadow of the towers above. As it’s early in the season and there has been late snowfall the last mile ascent to the Laguna is one for crampons and poles – kit which seemed like overkill at the start of the trail but for which we are immensely grateful. Crunching through the snow and ice to the top is a slog but well worth it for the view of the lake, frozen and covered in pristine snow. It’s a view for a well-earned packed lunch, eaten under the watchful eyes of the bold caracaras, hoping for errant crumbs. We spend our days in El Chaltén hiking with Fede and learning about the area and its history, comparing the challenges of the area with our experiences in the Dolomites and Alps. Sven and Fede share common ground with their love of mountains, climbing and the stories of first ascents. I have never learnt more than I do on those treks. What El Chaltén lacks in infrastructure it makes up for with heart. We find a favourite dinner spot in La Tapera, our active days excusing any excess of steak consumed. By the time we leave to transfer to Chile we are full of plans to return, multi-day hikes on our future menu. Chilean Patagonia The long drives between locations in Patagonia serve as a reminder of the immense challenges that humans faced to create lives here. The bright red shrines to Gaucho Gil are often the only interruption to miles and miles of deserted road. By the time we reach the border, the only word for it is desolate. The crossing at Rio Don Guillermo is, I’m convinced, the windiest border in the world. Even the police dogs show no inclination to leave their kennels. After this battering by the elements it is a relief to head towards Torres del Paine national park and Awasi Patagonia. Each ‘room’ here is an individual cabin
and comes complete with your own guide for the duration of your stay. Our guide, Tere, is knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and more than able to keep up with our incessant questions and observations. In true Patagonian style the weather is challenging and changeable. Beautiful views of the Torres themselves greet us as we drive to the lodge, stick around as we enjoy a charcuterie board and glass of wine, but vanish by the time we’re dining in the restaurant. We won’t see them again on this trip. With longer hikes off the table due to the weather, Tere works with us to put together a plan. We pack in blustery walks and scenic drives as well as a massage to knead out the weather before dinners with wine pairings from the resident sommelier. The highlight comes on our second day. We get an early start, leaving the only (human) footprints in the fresh snow to head puma spotting in the national park. Within the hour we find success. A beautiful female cat has taken down a guanaco and is beginning to hide the carcass from the watchful scavengers circling above. At this time in the morning, we’re all but alone at the sighting. Reality is beginning to loom at the end of our trip and we fly north to finish our trip in the wine region, relaxing in the opulence of Vik – a truly fascinating winery hotel with beautiful panoramic views and art-filled rooms. They each have their own personality and unique names to match. We stay in one of the exclusive glass bungalows, ‘Shape of Women’, complete with sculptures of the female form. Other rooms celebrate Japanese simplicity, holograms and even Hérmes. The change of pace allows us to reflect on everything we’ve seen and done. For me, Argentina now has a second, equally significant story in my life. In Patagonia, Sven has found a part of the world that has embedded itself in his soul. Far from thinking about our next destination, in the way we might usually, we find ourselves imagining returning to share these places with others. Going back might just be the best way to travel after all.
“Crunching through the snow and ice to the top is a slog but well worth it for the view of the lake” 28
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