WRISTWATCH TEARDOWN
Crystal: The clear protective cover that shrouds the watch face, made from either synthetic sapphire, acrylic or glass. Synthetic sapphire is the most expensive to produce, though it is considerably more scratch resistant than either acrylic or glass crystals. Bezel: A metal (occasionally ceramic) ring that surrounds the watch crystal. Often bezels rotate on watches (usually on dive watches) and contain a scale for time or other measurements; some remain stationary or do not have a scale and are purely decorative. Gasket/O-Ring: A rubber, neoprene or plastic ring used to seal the gaps between the case and the case back, crystal and crown to prevent water or dust from entering the case and damaging the movement inside. Dial: Also often referred to as the face, the dial displays the time and features numerals and markings as well as the hands.
Indices: The markings on the dial of a watch used to represent the hours in place of numerals. In higher-end watches, these are usually “applied,” or attached to the dial, rather than printed on. Case: The main structure of the watch, containing and protecting the interior mechanizations. Case Back: The reverse side of a watch case that can be removed to access the inside of the watch. Lugs: The protruding pieces of metal at the top and bottom of a watch case where the strap is attached. The two ends of the lug hold a spring bar, which holds the strap in place. Crown: A small knob on the side of the watch case that can be used to adjust the time, date and — if your mechanical watch isn’t automatic — wind the watch to keep it running. Band/Strap: Piece of leather, metal, rubber, or other materials used to attach the watch to the wrist.
Bracelet: Device to attach the watch to your wrist, constructed of small metal linkages in a chain like form. Deployant Clasp: A type of watch strap buckle that closes by folding in on itself, then clasping. Makes the strap easier to take on and off and keeps the leather from getting worn or stretched out Movement: The inner-working mechanism of a watch that can be either mechanical (automatic or hand-wound) or quartz (battery powered). Most watch manufacturers refer to their movements as “calibers.” In a mechanical movement, the main components are a mainspring, a gear train, an escapement and a balance wheel. In a quartz movement, the main components are a battery, a microchip circuit, a quartz crystal and a stepper motor. Many high-end movements (both quartz and mechanical) are manufactured in Switzerland by either watch brands themselves or from large movement makers like ETA and Valjoux, though Japan and even China have their own thriving watchmaking industries.
Graduation Project | Titan Vision Next: Explorations in Recrafting the Watch Proposition | 29
