Materials And Finishes ASSIGNMENT 1 Name: Jessie Chen VernErn Student ID: 0339153 Course: Bachelor in Arts( Hons) of Interior Architecture
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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ASSIGNMENT 1A Explore & Identify -10% (Individual) -Floor, wall, ceiling, built-in furniture and loose furniture are types of interior components that need to be given attention while selecting the suitability materials to be applied to fit its function. Students are required to select ONE of the components of the residential space and provide TWO different areas that has different types of materials applied. Students to identify, observe and investigate the purpose/ function of the selected material/ finishes applied, research about the installation methods, and the suitability of use according to the function of the space. In order to do the research, the following items should be considered: i. Material characteristics & specifications ii. Installation methods iii. Safety issues/ Comfort and Aesthetic considerations
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ASSIGNMENT 1B Interior Detailing-10% (Individual) Identify and observe the materials given , understand the construction detailing by: 1. Sketch through observation. 2. Specification and notes to show understanding about the materials itself from your own findings as part of the journal completion. Each themed sketch, can be either a (building element) finish or (built-in or freestanding) furniture: 1) ONE concrete(mortar based)-themed sketch – example- concrete wall painted, pebble washed etc 2) ONE stone-themed sketch – example kitchen countertop, dining table etc 3) ONE tile-themed sketch – stone/ceramic tiled wall/floor/counter top 4) ONE wood-themed sketch – includes rattan/bamboo furniture 5) ONE metal-themed sketch – example metal coat hanger, metal railing, furniture/rack etc. Can be combined with glass eg: sliding door with aluminium frame etc.
CONTENTS OF ASSIGNMENT 1A Different images of the selected component (max: 3 images for a selected area) that apply/ implement the selected materials and finishes; • Description of the selected materials used in a particular space; • Brief explanation of the benefits of using the selected material and finishes; • Explanation of the installation of parts/components/layers that make up this whole studied component, from the base/structure to the finished surface. (Think: method statement, construction sequence – or like making a DIY installation manual, of your chosen component, from watching the contractors work on it from start to end)
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FLOOR ( Toilet ) Porcelain Tiles Floor Pebble Wash Stone Floor
Porcelain Floor Tiles
Pebble Stone Floor Figure 1.0 An image of my toilet floor
Porcelain Floor Porcelain tiles are commonly used to cover floors and walls, with a water absorption rate of less than 0.5 percent. The clay used to build porcelain tiles is generally denser. They can either be glazed or unglazed. Porcelain tiles are one type of vitrified tiles and are sometimes referred to as porcelain vitrified tiles. Historically, porcelain was not the usual material for tiles, which were much more often made of earthenware (terracotta) or stoneware. The first porcelain tiles were made in China, for example in the 15th-century Porcelain Tower of Nanjing (now largely destroyed). Although porcelain has now been widely used for making tiles for many years, modern production methods and quantities have made porcelain tiles available for the average householder in recent years.
FIGURE 1.1 A close up shot of the porcelain floor in my toilet
Use Porcelain is much harder than ordinary ceramic tiles and is usually selected, despite its higher price, for its hard-wearing nature. Porcelain can be used in both wet and dry areas such as bathrooms, showers and kitchens.
Disadvantages of Porcelain Porcelain is denser and therefore heavier to handle than other ceramic tiles. For this reason, it is generally more expensive. Being harder, it is more difficult to cut and drill and requires specialist tools, which can hamper fitting and increase costs. Polished porcelain may need sealing, where ordinary glazed tiles do not. The glazed surface is coated with less than two microns.
FIGURE 1.2 The connection of my porcelain floor to pebble stone floor
About My Porcelain Tiles This porcelain tiles is located in my toilet. When I asked my parents why did they picked this particular type of tiling, my dad said he did not know, he just let the designer or the person in charge with the renovotation settle everything. So, I decided to do some research and observation on why the constructor/designer of the house decided to choose this particular type of flooring for the toilet.
I tried to find for the same kind of tiling but it was quite hard to find the same one as the porcelain tiles I have was a bit unique as they actually have some hatching lines as design and it's not that common so I couldn't find the exact same one or maybe it might be outdated as I have lived in this house for around 15 years already. So, I tried to look for some manufacturer website and found one quite similar which is The Evoke Series by Creative Materials Corporation based in United States. The tiles might be a glazed porcelain tiles with matte finish as It can't be unglazed porcelain tiles because unglazed porcelain tiles usually have different pattern and marks on each tiles due the process of making it.
FIGURE 1.3 The corner of the porcelain floor in my toilet
CHARACTERISTICS OF MY TILES ● ● ● ● ●
12mm x 12mm Thickness: 3-7 mm Matte Hatching design High resistant to scratches
FIGURE 1.4 A sample of a similar porcelain tiles like my toilet tiles
Extra Studies on Porcelain Tiles Porcelain tiles are available in four general types: 1. Unglazed Porcelain Tiles Unglazed porcelain tiles are produced by dry pigmented powdered clay that is injected into a mould and then pressed and fired. This type of production creates porcelain tiles where each tile has a different pattern. Unglazed porcelain typically doesn’t require any further treatment and sealing may not actually be required. A structured finish can be produced by pressing powder into a patterned mould. The tile then takes on the texture of the mould. This type of external tile is extremely hard wearing and is ideal for both domestic and commercial application. Typically, no sealing is required.
FIGURE 1.5 Pale green speckle unglazed porcelain tiles
2. Glazed Porcelain Tiles Glazed porcelain tiles are available in gloss, matte or semi-polished form. Glazed tiles can be created through several methods and the glazes can have either a solid colour or a pattern with a gloss or matt finish. After a porcelain tile has been glazed, it doesn’t require any further treatment or sealing.
FIGURE 1.6 Vettuno greige glazed porcelain tiles
3. Digitally Printed Porcelain Tiles Digitally printed porcelain is another type of glazed porcelain. This is the latest method of tile production which allows for natural materials to be photographed and digitally printed onto the tile to create images that are natural in appearance. These tiles do not need to be sealed. 4. Full Bodied, Double Loaded, and Colour Bodied Porcelain Tiles
FIGURE 1.7 Digital printing wooden rustic porcelain tiles
Full bodied, double loaded and colour bodied porcelain tiles are a type of tile where the colour and pattern of the tile runs all the way through the biscuit, with a single colour from the surface to the base of the tile. Double loaded tiles are made by compressing two layers of clay together. These tiles are great for high traffic areas.
FIGURE 1.8 Time white natural rectified double loaded porcelain tiles
Types of Finishes For Porcelain Floor Porcelain tiles can come in many variety of finishes. Choosing the finishes will depend on the intended application as it will provide the function in addition to the look and the feel. We will look into major categories of finishes for porcelain tiles and their pros and cons. UNPOLISHED (MATTE) This finish is commonly used for full bodied and double/multiple loaded porcelain. Rarely used with soluble salts as the metal oxides are not very visible if not polished. The production technique is very simple. After the pressing and drying, the tiles are fired and then packed. Pros ● ● ● ●
Slip-resistant in dry and wet environments. High resistance to scratches. Inexpensive Matte rough look.
Cons ● ● ●
Requires more maintenance since rougher. Flat look, little depth. Some ‘glazed versions’ can be shiny and glaze can wear off with high traffic.
FIGURE 1.9 Lines greige matte porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.10 China Matte Unpolished floor tiles
POLISHED Glazed porcelain rarely offered in polished version since it will require a very thick layer of glaze. To obtain polished surface, the tiles go through a polishing (brushing the rough part of the tile off the surface) and rectifying (squaring/bevelling the edges) process. Pros ● ● ●
Very easy to maintain since dirt has nothing to grip on. Rich and high-end appearance. Generally stronger than marbles or granites which require constant sealing & maintenance.
Cons ● ● ● ● ●
Can be slippery in wet conditions. Can be more expensive. Shiny look might not be accepted. Might have higher porosity. Require sealing to avoid staining.
FIGURE 1.11 Supreme white polished porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.12 Grey marble effect polished porcelain tiles
SEMI POLISHED Also known as lappato finish, this version is mainly offered in glazed porcelain material. Since in most of the cases the layer of glaze is very thin, we cannot apply a full polishing process. The light polishing is carried out the same way as polished version, but the brushing is very light or just on the peaks of the tile surface to create the shiny-rough look. Pros ● ● ●
Exclusive look. Not as slippery as the full polished when wet. Affordable price.
Cons ●
“Heavy” and “busy” look, sometimes used as accent.
FIGURE 1.13 Sparkle semi lappato polished porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.14 Snow white semi polished porcelain tiles
SATIN The production process is like the polished one but skipping the last polishing pads, which means avoiding the shiny mirror effect. The result is smooth silky finish without the glossy look.
Pros ● ● ●
Smooth surface without the shiny look. Velvety look. More slip resistant than the polished.
Cons ● ●
Grinding marks might be visible (not using the last pads is like not finishing the polishing job properly). High maintenance.
FIGURE 1.15 Carrara satin tiles veneto marble effect porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.16 Satin matte black porcelain tiles
STRUCTURED This finish is obtained in the press and if not coated with transparent glaze behave as the unpolished finish. An additive called carborundum can also be employed to give the surface a rougher texture to provide more slip resistance. Pros â—?
Anti-slip in wet and dry conditions.
Cons â—?
Requires more maintenance since rougher.
FIGURE 1.17 Crema structured concrete effect porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.18 Biscotto structured porcelain tiles
PRE POLISHED / HONED This finish can be obtained in two ways, directly in the press (particular device) or right after the press (light brushing heads). The second version can only be done with full bodied porcelains. Pros Anti-slip in wet and dry conditions. Stain resistant. Scratch resistant. Easy to maintain. Honed look. Affordable.
● ● ● ● ● ● Cons ●
If coated with transparent glaze, the honed look, the anti-slip features and the scratch/wear resistance are compromised.
FIGURE 1.19 Extra grigio honed porcelain tiles
FIGURE 1.20 Aurea honed finish porcelain tiles
METHOD FOR CUTTING PORCELAIN TILE CUTTING PORCELAIN TILE USING AN ANGLE GRINDER The best tool which can do multiple cuts in different sizes and shapes including the L cuts, the circle cuts, straight cuts, square cuts etc is the angle grinder. In my toilet, my dad decided to make the flooring near the door to be pebble wash flooring, so my dad told the constructor to cut the tiles in this curve design and this is where we need to use an angle grinder.
FIGURE 1.21 Angle grinder
FIGURE 1.22 Curved and irregular shaped tiles in my toilet
An angle grinder is perfectly suited to cutting curves in tiles.
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On the tile, mark out the shape which is to be cut and have a clear idea about which side is the waste. You can get carried away easily and score on the side of the tile. Use an electrician’s tape to make a cross as a marker.
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Mark the desired shape on both sides of the tile. Make sure you follow the shape on the edge of the angle grinder gently with little pressure to get a clean mark which doesn’t chip.
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Make multiple small cuts by turning over the tile. These will avoid the jamming and help you maintain control. The blade should run into the waste side.
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After you get the desired cut, you can smoothen the edge by using an abrasive wheel. The finished cut will depend on whether the cut is clearly visible on the (polished/unpolished) porcelain tile.
Just take the grinder and pull it across the edge that you want to cut and the grinder does the work for you in no time with efficiency and cleanliness
CUTTING A PORCELAIN TILE USING A WET SAW
A wet tile saw cuts tiles made of ceramic and porcelain leaving a clean, smooth edge. This is to cut tiles that doesn't require any curve parts. This is one of the best way to cut a porcelain tiles for a clean and straight tiles.
FIGURE 1.23a WET TILE SAW
Although we can chip the surface of porcelain tiles so in order to ensure a cleaner cut, we should should use a wet saw with an adjustable blade. Working slowly and using a fresh blade always helps. Notching the Tile to Avoid Chips A great way to avoid chipping on porcelain tiles is to notch the tile before cutting through. Follow the below steps to do so: ●
Set your tile saw blade upon the tile
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Mark the point where you wish to notch
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Place the tile with the marking facing the blade but do not let them get in touch yet and turn on your saw
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Push the tile towards the blade and cut an inch for small tiles (go till 2 inches for larger tiles) and turn it off
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Flip the tile, turn on the saw and cut where you made the notch earlier
This is why one should know how to cut a porcelain tile with a wet saw, a cutting machine or a blade.
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Use a fresh sharpened blade and always remember to cut slowly in order to get clean cuts
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It is mandatory to mark the cutting line with a wax pencil before you start cutting porcelain tile. This is to ensure the precision in the size and the chipping can be avoided by masking the edges with a suitable tape.
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Fill the reservoir with water upto the blade dipping into it and place the tile depending upon where your blade cuts from (above/below)
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Adjust your saw in a way that it can cut upto 1/8 inch deep into the tile. You don’t want to cut through or more than half through the tile
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After marking the edges, take a cutter and score the line to make the clean cuts. Be sure that the tile is levelled along the blade to avoid any distortions or bends. Now, apply pressure and score the tile towards the down for it to snap. Once cut, you can either continue to the final cut or notch the tile before that.
FIGURE 1.23b Wet tile saw
Tools
Angle grinder
FIGURE 1.24 Images of the tools needed for installation
Installation Process STEP 1 - Dry layout
(Measure and plot out the layout for the tiles)
FIGURE 1.25 Dry layout
Find the midpoint of each wall and snap chalk lines on the floor. The line crossing at the room's center are the starting point of the tile. Lay a row of tiles along a straightedge more than halfway across the toilet floor. For consistent joints, use tile spacers. This row determines the size of cut tiles along the walls. At the toilet's center, place a tile where the chalk lines cross with its edges touching the lines. Measure from one wall (call it A) to the nearest tile edge. Then, go to the tile row and, starting at a joint, measure along the row and mark the distance you just measured. The mark shows the width of the tile at the wall. If that measurement is less than around 50mm (2 inch) go back to the center tile and move it away from wall A to create a wider cut tile.
STEP 2 - Dry layout 2 (Align all the tiles and make sure it's straight) From the center tile, measure to the opposite wall mark it as B; mark this distance along the tile row. Adjust the center tile along the A-to-B line until measurements at walls A and B are the same. After adjusting the A-to-B line, mark the center tile where it touches the chalk line between the other walls (call them C and D). Align these marks with the C-to-D chalk line. Repeat the measuring and adjusting process for walls C and D. Lay a straightedge parallel to the C-to-D line and against one side of the center tile. Mark the straightedge where it meets a corner of the tile. This mark is your starting point for laying tile. FIGURE 1.26 Dry layout 2
STEP 3 - Spread thinset mortar Chuck a mixer into a drill and blend the powdered thinset with latex additive—not water—until it's the consistency of mayonnaise. Let it slake (rest) for about 10 minutes. Mix only as much thinset as you can use in 2 hours. With the flat edge of a trowel, spread a thin layer of thinset (scratch coat) over a 2-by-3-foot area next to the straightedge. Before the scratch coat dries, apply more thinset using the notched edge of the trowel. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to the floor and spread the thinset evenly in broad curved strokes, then finish with a straight pass, which ensures the best adhesion. Combing the thinset into furrows allows air to escape as the tile is set. When spreading thinset, press down hard so that the trowel makes a scraping sound; the trowel notch size should equal the tile thickness. FIGURE 1.27 Spread thinset mortar
STEP 4 - Set the tile Gently lay a tile on thinset next to the straightedge. With fingertips widespread, push down with a slight twist of the wrist. Use this same technique to set each tile, making one row along the straightedge. Using tile spacers ensures even joints. Move the straightedge out of the way and lay the next row alongside the first, using the edge of the tile as your guide. Continue spreading thinset and setting tiles in 2-by-3-foot sections, working from the center of the room out toward the walls. Every few rows, hold a framing square or A-square alongside the edge of the tiles to check that they are square to each other. Consistent finger pressure (and constant practice) helps avoid lippage—where a tile's edge is higher or lower than its neighbors. FIGURE 1.28 Set the tiles
STEP 5 - Final cuts Make straight cuts as needed with a snap cutter. When waste is more than an inch wide, score tile with one firm stroke, then break by pushing down handle. Smooth cut edge with rubbing stone. For straight cuts with waste less than an inch wide, score tile on snap cutter, then snap pieces off with nibblers or use a wet saw. To fit a tile around an outside corner, hold one edge against the wall and mark the tile where it touches the corner. Pencil a line all the way across the tile. Then, without turning the tile, move it to the other side of the corner and again mark where tile and corner meet. Mark an X on the part to be cut away. FIGURE 1.29 Final cuts
STEP 6 - Notch the tile On a wet saw, cut the tile from the mark to the line, taking care not to go beyond the line. Then turn the tile and cut along the line next to the X, up to but not beyond the first cut. At end of cut, lift up the edge farthest from you to help free the waste. For curved or scribed cuts, make parallel slices with the wet saw into the waste section, up to but not past the line marking the cut. Then break away the remaining “fingers” with nibblers.
FIGURE 1.30 Notch the tiles
STEP 7- Fill the tile joints with grout After tile sets overnight, use a margin trowel to scrape off any thinset from the tile surface or in the joints. Mix up a batch of grout to a looser-than-mayonnaise consistency. Add water a little at a time by squeezing it from a sponge. Scoop a trowelful of grout onto the floor and spread it with a rubber float held at a 45-degree angle to the floor. Push grout into the joints by first moving the float in line with the joints, then diagonal to them. Work from the edges of the room toward the center.
FIGURE 1.31 Fill the tile joints with grout
STEP 8- Clean up the grout Allow the grout to set up for 20 or 30 minutes. It should be firm to the touch before you begin washing the tile's surface. Wipe away grout haze with a damp, well-squeezed sponge rinsed often in a bucket of clean water. Again, wait for grout to haze over, then wipe with clean sponge. Repeat until the tile is clean. Don't be too aggressive when wiping up grout haze, or you could pull grout out of the joints.
FIGURE 1.32 Clean the grout
GENERAL SAFETY TIPS
Though some of the tools mentioned above like the wet saw and the drill bit are not very safe to use because of their potential for accidental hazards. ●
Wear protective gear
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Wear the right shoes and proper clothing
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Use gloves, goggles and ear protection
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Stay alert and don’t lose focus
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Lubricate the saw blades regularly
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Use scrap wood to keep fingers away from the cutting blade
DETAILED DRAWING
DETAIL A
Safety Issues For the safety issues, from my personal experience since I’ve live in this current house for 10 years plus. The toilet flooring have a matte finish, it is supposed to be anti-slip but sometimes it does get slippery when the floor is wet. So, I think my floor tiles works good as anti-slip in a dry condition but not in a wet condition. There are times I slipped in the toilet because its slippery, so a hander could be placed on the side wall so that people can hold it to get a grip when the floor is wet to avoid slipping. An anti-slip mat or anti-slip slipper can be placed in the toilet to solve this issue too. Another thing is maybe in a near future if I am going to have my own house, I will make sure my toilet floor have a tile with more structured finish as it will have a rougher surface that is anti-slip in a dry and wet condition. Not only that, another issue to take into consideration is that, porcelain tiles can easily stain as it is more porous than ceramic tiles. Dirt can get stuck on the surface of the tiles, so we need to take a brush to brush it out and use water to clean it. If the dirt did not get clean out, the dirt will accumulate and it might cause skin infection if the floor is seriously dirty. That’s why I will clean my toilet every week to avoid this issue to happen. Porcelain tiles should not have more than 0.50% absorption and they should have an average breaking strength of at least 275 lbf. If the porcelain tile is installed properly on a properly prepared concrete substrate, and there are no voids within the thin-set mortar adhesive between the back of the tile and the concrete substrate, then the tile should be suitable for supporting the heavy wood stone on top of it.
FIGURE 1.33 Safety hander in toilet
FIGURE 1.34 Dirt on tiles surface
Advantages & Disadvantages
porcelain tile
Based on personal experiences and observations Advantages ●
Slip resistant in dry condition more
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Scratch resistant ( I dropped some sharp object on the floor before but it didn't damage the floor )
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More durable compared to ceramic tiles
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Harder and denser
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Can hold heavy loads
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Water resistant
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Durable ( so far no cracks has been found on the floor throughout this 15 years)
Disadvantages ●
There are watermarks or dirt marks ( when it is old or isn't well cared )
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If there is staining, need to clean it by brush to scrub it out to avoid it from getting stuck on the surface
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Slippery when the floor is wet even though its matte finish
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If you want to cut the tiles into some customised shaped, it will be harder and need professional skills and special machine to cut it.
FIGURE 1.35 Stains on my floor tiles ( same type of porcelain tiles but different colour which is located in another toilet from my house)
FIGURE 1.36 Black water stain on the floor surface
Pebble Wash Stone Floor Pebble Wash Floor or also commonly call exposed aggregate finish, is used as a decorative treatment for walls and floors. The pebble wash is laid on the concrete floor or wall and is later exposed to reveal the natural stone coating on the surface. Pebble Wash treatment is a decorative style of finish suitable for driveways, walkways, columns, pools and patios creating a textured and coloured finish that is attractive and low maintenance.
FIGURE 2.1 A close up shot of the pebble wash stone floor of my toilet
Pebble Wash Coating is available in a variety of coloured stone, made from quality crushed granite, marble, natural stones from the seaside and river stones. It adds a distinctive character to any project, is a natural and eco-friendly alternative to paint. It is suitable for use on residential, commercial and municipal areas, on floors, walls and columns. FIGURE 2.2 The whole part of pebble wash stone flooring in my toilet
Types of pebble stone flooring
Apache
Caramel blend
Coral
Dark Brown
Grey Blend
Black Diamond
Pearl
Mini Pearl
Black Pearl
Catina Pink
Mocha Blend
Multicoloured Flint
Razorback Red
FIGURE 2.3 Types of pebble stone flooring
About my pebble wash floor Pebble wash floor is not that common in many households. My dad wanted the toilet to have a unique design near the door area so he decided to customize this himself, he discussed with the contractor. I asked my dad if he actually remember which manufacturer he got the pebbles from but he couldn't remember. So, I went to do some research and I found a manufacturer called SUZUKAÂŽ Malaysia which belongs to the SUZUKAÂŽ Group, which holds manufacturing companies in Taiwan, Malaysia, and Thailand. They sell all kinds of pebble flooring and have variety of colours, size and type of pebbles. I went through their brochure and found one kind of pebbles that might be the one my dad got. It doesn't look like exactly like my pebble wash floor maybe because it might be old and dirty, so the colour tend to look darker. The manufacturer doesn't have a specific names for their pebble but they go by code and the code of this pebble type is C-305.
FIGURE 2.4 A close up picture of my pebble wash floor
My pebble wash floor is multicoloured. It have a yellowish, reddish, white, beige, black, grey and orange pebble. It is a mixture of all of the colour pebbles.
Information from the manufacturer
FIGURE 2.5 A sample of pebble type which is something like mine
TYPE SERIES C Thickness: 3 mm to 5mm Shape: Mixture of different colours Coverage: - TF 30-38 sqf, 21 kg/drum - TW 20-40 sqf, 25 kg/ drum
FIGURE 2.6 A series that iis from the manufacturer i found which is something like my pebble wash floor
Installation Process Tools
Rubber Grout Float
Notched trowel
Sponge
Rubber bucket ( for cement) and tools to mix it
STEP 1 - Putting the cement
FIGURE 2.7 Putting the cement
After preparing all the tools and materials. It is best to already know what shape or design you will want your flooring layout to be before digging out the flooring depth. Use the black edging to form an outline of the shape. Make sure the depth dug out is leveled even. The first step will be putting the cement on areas that will be used for this pebble wash flooring.
STEP 2 - Spread the cement evenly Mix up enough concrete to fill the outline of the flooring base within 2 inches of the top of the black edging. Make sure to spread the cement evenly and avoid any gaps. Ensure that its fully filled. A notched trowel could be handy during this process as you can use it to spread the cement evenly and flatten every bumpy surface. Make sure to apply force to ensure that there are no air gaps below. FIGURE 2.8 Spread the cement evenly
STEP 3 - Make sure the cement is ready for the next process
FIGURE 2.9 Check on the cement
After putting the cement, give it some time to settle down. Let it harden by just a little bit only proceed to the next step. If the cement is too watery/soft, the pebbles will not sit properly on the cement as it will move around a lot but do not let the cement fully harden up as this will make you unable to install the pebbles. So, you can use your finger to touch the cement and see if it is ready to proceed to the next stage.
STEP 4 - Putting the pebbles After the cement had settled down, prepare to put the pebbles. Do not pour all at once, try to do part by part to make sure it is evenly placed.
FIGURE 2.10 Putting the pebbles
STEP 5 - Even out all the pebbles Try to spread out the pebbles so they won't stick together. Make sure to filled up all the gaps.
FIGURE 2.11 Even all the pebbles
STEP 6 - Add force to ensure pebbles are in place Next, you can use a rubber grout float to press the pebbles to ensure that the pebbles are held in place and to avoid gaps.
FIGURE 2.12 Ensure pebbles are in place
STEP 7 - Making sure the cement is holding all the pebbles Keep pressing and even up the pebbles till the cement is covering the pebbles.
FIGURE 2.13 Make sure cement is holding the pebbles
STEP 8 - Clean up the surface Once it is done pressing, you need to leave it until the cement gets dry. Then, use any stone cleaner (acid) and sponge to clean the surface of the pebbles. FIGURE 2.14 Clean up the surface
STEP 9 - Protect the surface After cleaning, the final process is to coat the pebble wash floor with stone care. This is to protect the surface of the floor and also to polish up the floor for safety reasons. FIGURE 2.15 Protect the surface of the floor
STONE CARE HIGH GLOSS ● ● ● ●
Provide protection on surfaces. UV, fungi growth and water resistant - Suitable for exterior surface. Long lasting - 1-2 year for exterior surface and 2-3 for interior surface. Protect surface from stain.
DETAILED DRAWING PEBBLE WASH FLOOR ( TOILET ) FROM TOILET DOOR - CONNECT WITH PORCELAIN FLOOR
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For the section drawing, I decided to cut it near the door to show how the pebble flooring starts and how it connects to the porcelain floor.
Safety Issues For the safety issues, from my personal experience the pebble wash floor is very suitable for toilet flooring, my dad initially just wanted the pebbles flooring around the door area as a design only but it actually do help us to avoid from slipping when the floor is too wet. There are some minor drawbacks as the longer we stay, The main problem is for the hygiene part,, there are dirts stuck on the surface of the pebbles but we couldn't see it, so in order to keep it clean all the time, weekly cleaning is needed. It gets slimy once in a while too if its too moist and its humid especially with Malaysia’s weather. This causes the surface to be slippery, so it is important that the surface is well protected. In the very beginning my dad bought a lacquer for floor. It is called EC Glaze Oil Based, it was ok in the beginning but after cleaning the floor for quite a while then the protection layer will eventually get thinner. So, it is important to apply the sealant layer to protect the surface of the pebbles once in a while. Pebbles might come out if it isn't well fixed and seal properly in the beginning stages, so if this happens, remember to be careful and remove all the loose pebbles out to avoid hurting your feet or maybe fall. The pebbles might be sharp, so maybe a slipper could be placed in the toilet while waiting for the floor to get fixed.
FIGURE 2.16 Ec Glazed oil based that my dad used to protect the pebble wash floor
FIGURE 2.17 How it look like with and without putting a sealant Without (left) , with (right)
Advantages & Disadvantages Advantages ●
Colours does not fade
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Anti Slip
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Comfortable to step on, like a massage after a long day of walking
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Water resistant
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Look nice and unique with a natural organic feel
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Easy to do
Disadvantages
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Dirt can be stuck in between the pebbles. As the dirt cannot be seen, it is also difficult to remove
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Toilet is moist and Malaysia is quite humid sometimes so there might be fungus (slime) grow in between the pebbles gap
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The cement might crack overtime if the surface isn't protect with sealant or epoxy
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The pebbles might come out if it isn't done properly
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Some pebbles might be sharp if it isn’t chosen properly or isn’t process properly and it might hurt our feet
FIGURE 2.18 Crack pebble wash floor ( with fungus growing in the crack)
FIGURE 2.19 Mold/fungus on the surface of the pebble wash floor
CONTENTS OF ASSIGNMENT 1B For EACH of the ‘themed-sketch’, you are to fulfill this (minimum) checklist: -Photo of themed feature – taken in your house (NOT internet) - Sketch of the same photo – with extensions where photo cannot encapsulate - ONE cross-section of entire feature eg: Floor-wall-ceiling or exploded view of furniture - One blow-up detail (cross-referenced with proper annotation) to the cross section sketch or isometric sketch of furniture
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
● ● ● ● ●
ONE concrete(mortar based)-themed sketch – example- concrete wall painted, pebble washed etc ONE stone-themed sketch – example kitchen countertop, dining table etc ONE tile-themed sketch – stone/ceramic tiled wall/floor/countertop ONE wood-themed sketch – includes rattan/bamboo furniture ONE metal-themed sketch – example metal coat hanger, metal railing, furniture/rack etc. Can be combined with glass eg: sliding door with aluminium frame etc.
STONE = STONE TABLE (OUTDOOR) TILE = MARBLE CERAMIC TILES WOOD = FOLDABLE WOOD TABLE WOOD = WOOD DINING CHAIR METAL = METAL TROLLEY
STONE
FIGURE 3.0 Close up image of the granite stone table
FIGURE 3.1 My grandmother’s outdoor stone table
FIGURE 3.2 Close up image of the tabletop sitting on the base
THEMED-SKETCH 1
TILE
FIGURE 3.3 Close up image of the Marble ceramic floor
FIGURE 3.4 Another image off my house marble ceramic floor
THEMED-SKETCH 2
WOOD
FIGURE 3.5 Ikea wood foldable table
THEMED-SKETCH 3
WOOD
FIGURE 3.6 A image of wood dining chair
THEMED-SKETCH 4
METAL
FIGURE 3.7 Ikea metal trolley
THEMED-SKETCH 5
MATERIAL AND FINISHES PROJECT 2 NAME: JESSIE CHEN VERNERN STUDENT ID: 0339153
CONTENTS 01 ASSIGNMENT 2(A) INTERIOR CONSTRUCTION DETAILING
02 ASSIGNMENT 2(B) FURNITURE DETAILING
03 MATERIAL BOARD
MATERIAL BOARD FLOOR & WALL
F U R N I T U R E
PARTICLEBOARD WITH LAQUER FINISH
PLASTIC EDGING STRIPS
WHITE NIPPPON PAINT FOR WOOD/METAL GYPSUM WALL BOARD
WHITE CONTAINER DECK
FIBERBOARD
ALLUMINIUM HANDLE
SUZUKA LIGHT GREY CEMENT TEXTURE WALL PAINT
COUNTERSUNK HEXAGON SCREW
STEEL LEGS & UNIVERSAL FIXING PLATE
STONE GREY RUBBER FLOORING TILES
WHITE POLYESTER POWDER COATING FINISH