JAN/FEB 2015
T H E
V O I C E
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£7.50
I N D U S T R Y
Gems&Jewellery IN CONJUNCTION WITH
Jan/Feb
All ab out tr igons Journe y to M ogok Right to with M reply: in te enah em S rview evder mish
2015
/ Volu
me 24
/ No.
1
FGA
In this issue JEWELLERY & WATCH BIRMINGHAM PREVIEW N.A.G./BJA UNIFICATION SURVEY RESULTS WEDDING JEWELLERY REPORT
CONTENTS & CONTACTS
It’s Showtime! Editor’s Letter
5
Michael Makes His Point
7
Industry News
8
N.A.G. Roundup
14
Focus on Education
18
Gemstones: Ruby
42
Member Benefits: Workplace Pensions
44
Business Support: Insurance
46
At the Bench: Understanding Rapid Prototyping
54
Business Support: Security
58
Brand Profile: Zeppelin
60
Where to Go, What to See… And What to Read
62
The Classifieds
64
Last Word
66
Jan/Feb 2015 / Volume 24 / No. 1
All about trigons Journey to Mogok Right to reply: interview with Menahem Sevdermish FGA
Gems&Jewellery A journey to Mogok, exploring trigons, Menahem Sevdermish interview, Letter from America plus much more…
COVER IMAGE In conjunction with Clogau See us at hall 17, stand Q28 Jewellery and Watch Show Birmingham at Spring Fair www.clogau.co.uk
Jewellery & Watch Birmingham is just around the corner – we offer our preview of the highlights
38
20
Unification Survey Results We report on the positive response to our membership survey on the unification of the N.A.G. and BJA
With this ring… A romantic, ethical campaign, a consumer opinion poll and sparkling new collections in our wedding jewellery report
48 Under the spotlight
56
Ashish Deo, CEO of the RJC, is quizzed on his vision of the Council’s future
The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com Sales Director: Ian Francis The National Association Tel: 020 7749 1705 of Goldsmiths Fax: 020 7729 0143 78a Luke Street, ian.francis@jewellers-online.org London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 Publishing Enquiries/ www.jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford CEO: Michael Rawlinson neil.oakford@jewellers-online.org michael.rawlinson@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Editor: Belinda Morris Andrew Fellows bmorris@colony.co.uk Lee Henderson Art Director: Ben Page Simon Johnson ben.page@jewellers-online.org The N.A.G. is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The N.A.G. accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3
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COMMENT
Editor’s Letter It’s probably too late now to extend Happy New Year greetings to you all (although the sentiment still stands) so instead I would like wish everyone a ‘Happy New Jeweller’! To mark the start of 2015 and,
This month: Ruby has also been thought of as being a stone of love, and has the ability to protect the wearer from illness. Page 42
coincidentally, 20 years since The Jeweller was launched with its current moniker, we have decided to give the magazine a fresh new look. We’re pretty pleased with its sharp and rather more contemporary feel… we hope that you like it too.
And while the editorial content remains largely unchanged and favourites remain (if it ain’t broke…) we have had a think about how we might add even more relevant and practical features to benefit your business. This month sees the start of two new regular series – one that highlights and explores the virtues of coloured stones (a different one each issue) and another that examines different jewellery trades and processes (the mysteries of rapid prototyping are uncovered on p54). We hope that these features will prove informative as well as revealing.
Of course the main story in this first issue of the new year centres on the forthcoming Jewellery & Watch Birmingham show, which is now just days away. Our preview of the fair highlights the key events taking place over the five days (the awards, the shows, the seminars, the Champagne receptions… it’s going to be very busy) and we’ve selected just a few pieces from the latest jewellery and watch collections from new, as well as familiar faces. See you there on the N.A.G./BJA stand 18J60/K61.
Among the yet-to-be-unveiled lines will be a generous number of wedding and engagement ring ranges. And because it’s that time of year, we have also drawn attention to this very important sector of the jeweller’s business. Our bridal jewellery feature (p48) reveals the (sometimes surprising) results of a consumer survey on bride-to-be buying habits, as well as news of Fairtrade’s recently-launched ‘I Do’ campaign. While on the subject of ethics we have also interviewed Ashish Deo who, at the end of last year, was appointed CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Have I missed anything out? It’s a packed issue. Enjoy!
… retailers and their staff need to be completely up-tospeed on the 4Cs (and more) to ensure that they’re a step ahead of their customers… as well as the competition Page 48
If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at bmorris@colony.co.uk
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5
Collections to capture the imagination Be inspired at the UK’s largest dedicated display of jewellery and watches. 400 suppliers . 600 brands . 40,000 pieces . Exclusive collection launches Register for your complimentary ticket at jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com/TheJeweller
Products featured: necklace & jewelled ring - Fei Liu, bracelets - Mark Milton, watch & gold ring - BERING, top - stylist’s own
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COMMENT
Michael makes his point
As we hit the new year running, CEO Michael Rawlinson advises how to keep your finger on the pulse of your business.
I
do hope you were able to finally put your feet (and your stocking!) up after a hectic selling period and enjoy your Christmas. But did you hear the latest dodgy Christmas cracker joke: ‘What’s the difference between the way Rolex and Pandora treat their customers?’ Well, the answer, as Paul Daniels used to say, is ‘not a lot’. Of course both want to tell you how to display and sell their products but perhaps one with rather more finesse than the other. For example, I know that some customers of the latter were treated to a pre-Christmas letter giving them notice to quit on 31st December. Which actually rather reminds me of the days when heartless bosses made people redundant on Christmas Eve. Well, I guess most of those people knew it was coming and
perhaps the same is true for the retailers who received the letter? The point is though that I think we all need to make this our New Year’s resolution: to be in control of our business, and not allow ourselves to be blown around and left to the mercy of external businesses and threats. If you have ever done a business strategy, you will know that there’s a number of analytical processes involved. You first look at the external factors that you have no control over, usually under the headings of Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Legal and Environmental… or PESTLE for short. Then you look at the market structure; the relationship between the customer (consumers) and the supplier (you and other retailers), between trade suppliers and you, and how the market works. Next you look at the market
I think we all need to make this our New Year’s resolution: to be in control of our business, and not allow ourselves to be blown around and left to the mercy of external businesses and threats.
Opportunities and Threats and your Strengths and Weaknesses, the SWOT analysis. In other words, each business needs to consider where it is going to operate in the marketplace and how it can exploit its strengths to the maximum effect. Of course this process needs to be under constant review. But it is only by undertaking such a structured approach that you can start to foresee and prepare for what would otherwise be unforeseen events. Within our JET portfolio we have two under-utilised products – JET Management (formerly JET Plus) and JET Business Development (formerly JET Pro) which can help you to explore and coordinate these business planning principles. The Executive Development Forum – the EDF – can also help you to develop insights and strategic planning skills, supporting you, our members, in the running of your own businesses. The point I want to make here is that the Association is ready, willing and able to help not only those who have been hit hard by the withdrawal of their Pandora account but indeed any member who wants to take their business to the next level. So please don’t hesitate to call me and my team and we will do our best to help you get things back on track.
upon the unification project with the BJA. When we started we didn’t know if it would succeed and the fact is that we still need your support and affirmative vote to finally make it happen. However, your board of directors and I are confident that it is the right thing for the Association and the industry as a whole. You can read more about the results of the survey we conducted back in October on page 38. And, if you are coming to the Jewellery & Watch Show in Birmingham, please do come and visit us on stand 18J60/K61 to tell us what you think or ask any questions you might have. Finally, I do hope that you will renew your Association membership as soon as possible as I don’t want you to miss out on all the benefits that belonging brings to you: the ENSURE Insurance Replacement Scheme, preferential rates on JET courses and access to the legal helpline to name but three. We will be suspending access to membership benefits at the end of February for those who haven’t paid, so please don’t overlook the invoice which was sent over the Christmas period. Meanwhile, may I wish you all a very successful and prosperous New Year.
It is because the Association itself took such a strategic review that we knew it was right to embark
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 7
INDUSTRY NEWS
Unified body to be ‘National Association of Jewellers’ National Association of T heGoldsmiths and the British Jewellers’ Association have released further details surrounding the proposed unification of the two organisations. Following consultation with members – which recorded overwhelming support for the proposal – the new organisation is to be known as the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), thus bringing together key elements of the names from the existing bodies. With the current organisations having long and proud histories, a key objective for the new association is to be regarded as the authority on the sector and
the issues relating to it. The proposed NAJ will also support and promote the growth of a vibrant and professional jewellery industry.
“ We have a clear vision of where we want the new association to be heading.” At Jewellery & Watch Birmingham the officers and chief executives from both BJA and N.A.G. will be spending time on stand 18J60/ K61, which the associations are jointly occupying, and will be available to discuss the
proposed unification. They look forward to hearing the views and thoughts of members and to answering any questions that might arise. A video and booklet will be available on the stand for members to view that sets out the vision, mission and values for the new Association. Gary Wroe, chairman of the BJA said: “Our new association – the National Association of Jewellers – will be just that, the go-to association for the entire jewellery supply chain. We aim to increase consumer confidence in the purchase of jewellery as they are our final customer whether we are retailers or manufacturers, encourage the
professionalism of members, promote the highest standards of integrity and support the trade through education and training programmes, such as the Responsible Sourcing Programme, as well as upholding compliance to the Association’s new Code of Practice.” Andrew Hinds, chairman of the N.A.G. added: “We have a clear vision of where we want the new association to be heading. Over the next few months the working party will continue to focus its efforts and resources to make sure that we are ready, following the member votes at the AGM, to put the detailed plans into action. We understand the need to set, maintain and develop standards for our members to uphold, and to become the reference point for our industry.”
New jewellery area for Pure London fashion show T hePuretrade London (8th – 10th February, Olympia London) has expanded its accessories area to include Pure Rocks – a sector dedicated to sterling silver, gold-plated and ‘semi-precious’ jewellery. The eight stands initially made available sold out
street pieces; Coco’s Liberty contemporary jewellery by Elina Bergert and Natasha Khushi; charm bracelets from Londonbased My Flash Trash; Henry Daniel Jewellery, interchangeable pieces handmade in Italy; and JuditB from Israel, featuring gemstones set in silver and gold.
so quickly that five more stands have been added to the area. Many of the exhibitors are first-timers to the show. Among those showing at Pure Rocks: Astrid & Miyu, founded in 2011 by Connie Nam (right), offering a mix of luxury and high
Edinburgh Assay Office opens at Heathrow Edinburgh Assay Office T he(EAO) has launched a new, one-stop, secure, in-transit hallmarking and onward delivery service based at its new facility at Heathrow Airport. This new international hallmarking and onward shipping service, offered in partnership with secure logistics experts Malca-Amit, will enable importers of precious metal jewellery from outside Europe to have all of their goods tested and marked in one secure
8 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
location rather than dealing with Assay Offices in each country of importation. After marking, consolidated shipments can be broken down for distribution to multiple locations, removing the need to carry separate stock for each country. The process starts with product shipped direct from any international location. It is then tested and hallmarked by EAO while in transit through Heathrow under a temporary import scheme. Finally, the product is
delivered to any international location where duty can be paid and the goods released. Since the product is brought into Heathrow under temporary import, tax is deferred until the shipment reaches its destination. The service also includes pick and pack capabilities. Benefits of the new service include lower costs and fewer delays when importing precious metal jewellery into Europe, and access to internationally recognised UK and Vienna
Convention hallmarks, for maximum coverage. Customers can track the progress of their shipment from manufacturer to client and goods benefit from Malca-Amit’s full liability cover throughout transit. The EAO and Malca-Amit team
S N I P P E T S Hallmarks book available The Sheffield Assay Office has announced that the 35th edition of the Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks is now available. This pocket sized reference book is of great value, providing the marks of origin on English, Scottish and Irish silver, gold, platinum and palladium and on foreign imported silver and gold plate. There are updates on the amendments to the Hallmarking Act of 1973; it also includes details of further marks that appear on precious metals until 2020.
Webster wins Gem Award
Catherine Hills opens her first shop
designer and jeweller Catherine Hills, who has A ward-winning made jewellery for HRH Prince Charles, actress Gillian Anderson
and the Harry Potter series of movies (among many others) has opened a shop – her first – at The Pantiles in Tunbridge Wells. The 284 sq ft boutique was designed (by Hills) to be an open plan space with a special, unique counter, to divide the retail section from her atelier – allowing customers to see where her jewellery is made. “My main aim was to create a space unlike any other jewellery shop I have been in before,” she said. “My distinctive, yet modern, jewellery has been described as ‘contemporary classics’. Likewise the design combines the old with the new with its prolific use of old mahogany fittings which gives it the look and feel of a Victorian workshop with more than a passing feel of Diagon Alley made famous by Harry Potter. Yet the shop section, with vintage stripped metal cabinets filled with interesting and quirky objects on which my work is displayed brings the two sections harmoniously together,” she added.
British jewellery designer Stephen Webster took home the award for the Design category in the Gem Awards 2015 earlier this month. Held in New York by the Jewelers of America, the Awards recognise the achievements of individuals and companies whose work raises the visibility of fine jewellery and watches. In his category Webster was up against US jewellers Alexis Bittar and Todd Reed. Other Award categories were Media Excellence, Marketing and Lifetime Achievement.
Successful year for hallmarking The total number of articles hallmarked across all four UK Assay Offices rose 13.5 per cent in the calendar year ending 31st December 2014, compared to the same period the previous year, bringing the total to 10,395,236 pieces hallmarked compared to 9,156,858 in 2013. Total gold articles hallmarked was up 22.7 per cent while silver was up 6.8 per cent. Platinum was flat with a negligible decrease of 0.6 per cent and palladium was down 5.4 per cent in units hallmarked.
New name for UK design scene
Pursuit to reveal innovations at show sales, stock and back-office systems house Pursuit T hewilljewellery be launching the latest in valuation, insurance and wireless transaction innovation at Jewellery & Watch Birmingham.
The work of Lebanon-born, London-based jewellery designer Mara Lozi has recently arrived in the UK. Her collections blend an antique/vintage look with rock and roll and a gothic edge, marrying Lozi’s western influences and creativity with the skills of local craftsmen. The distinctive statement pieces, which are all handmade, combine high quality zircon and gemstones, making the pieces affordable. Inspiration comes from punk, romance and nature; popular culture with wit and tradition.
A new suite of valuation and insurance functions further extends the power and convenience of Pursuit’s iPad-based Lifestyle till and stock presentation technology. Enhanced facilities include the loss management group’s Gemcheck pre-loaded claims payout card processing. And as well as a direct online link to TH March for immediate policy cover, the package incorporates repairs management. To streamline the completion of a sale, Pursuit has enhanced its till-on-a-tablet product with live, wireless connection to a chip and PIN card transaction payment pad. Indicative of the importance being placed on this by jewellers using the Pursuit system, take-up is accelerating to the extent that, in the weeks immediately leading up to Christmas, it was added to the PoS systems of over 40 shops.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 9
INDUSTRY NEWS
Jason Holt receives CBE in 2015 honours J
ason Holt, the CEO of Holts Group, founder of Holts Academy and the Government Apprenticeship Ambassador of SMEs, has been named as a recipient of the CBE in the 2015 New Year’s Honours. He is recognised for his services to apprenticeships, his outstanding contributions to promoting apprenticeships to SMEs and his efforts to
regenerate skills in his own sector in jewellery. Holt has spent the past 15 years developing and promoting vocational skills training and apprenticeships. Having created the Holt Review on the subject for the Government, he worked relentlessly to make sure that his recommendations were implemented. Welcoming
“ I have always felt as a business owner I needed to act – to do something about the skills gap in our sector. I’m always willing to help if I know that I can make a valuable contribution…”
the news, Simon Rainer, CEO of the BJA said: “This honour is a fitting recognition of the enormous contribution that Jason has made to advancing the jewellery industry, both through his determination to ensure the sector has skills for the future and his determination to put apprentices on the map.” Holt added: “This is an extraordinary honour and something I never thought would come my way. I have always felt as a business owner I needed to act – to do something about the skills gap in our sector. I’m always
willing to help if I know that I can make a valuable contribution, and to be recognised for that in this way is very humbling.”
New initiatives revealed at CMJ Trade Event Company of Master T heJewellers’ has announced a few new areas for its Spring Trade Event (15th – 16th February, 2015). The Innovation Lab is a room which allows prospective CMJ suppliers who offer niche or very innovative products to invited retailers, who will in turn give feedback. This could be on how these products might work in stores, what the opportunities could be and how these brands and products might consider developing in line with the needs
of retailers – both in terms of changing product design, but also POS materials, in-store support and training, etc. The event will also host a New Product Area to showcase the latest trends and inspirational new product from CMJ suppliers. Retailers will be able to see some of the highlights of the show and revisit brands (that have updated their offer) that they may once have dismissed as being outdated. The area, at the entrance
to the show, has been styled by visual merchandising expert Suzanne Robinson, who also styles for Drakes of Plymouth and CW Sellors’ Christmas event at Chatsworth. Another new section to the show will be the BJA Area which will showcase six designer-makers or designer brands. This year Oak, Muru, I love a Lassie and Rosie Saunders will be showing for the first time. The evening gala dinner, hosted by the BBC’s Bill
A Happy Christmas for jewellers of retailers said that jewellery sales over the Christmas period were the same or better than in the previous year. The majority reported upturns of between 10 and 20 per cent compared to the previous Christmas. Watch brands also enjoyed strong sales. UK retail sales across W hile all categories declined by 0.4 per cent on a like-for-like basis from December 2013 (showing the slowest December growth since December 2008), with total sales increasing by just
10 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
one per cent, the story from the jewellery sector offers a more optimistic over-view. In a survey of retailer members and suppliers to the Company of Master Jewellers, 88.8 per cent
N.A.G. and CMJ member Jonathan Lambert jewellers of Sudbury experienced a 46 per cent rise in the eight-week run-up to Christmas and December sales alone were 60 per cent up, according to MD Yasmin Moss.
Turnbull will take as its theme the classic TV show Mr & Mrs, with married couples from the jewellery industry taking part. The CMJ, which turned over a record £110 million in 2013, and reached the same level of turnover by the end of the third quarter last year, is embarking on a recruitment drive for 2015 in the aim to expand its retail membership. The buying group welcomed 17 new members in 2014.
“Christmas retail sales were fantastic,” she said. “The increase for us was mainly due to bespoke design sales and we saw a significant increase in diamond sales, which were missing last year.” Speaking of general retail sales, David McCorquodale, head of retail, KPMG, said: “Extensive discounting disrupted the timing and rhythm of Christmas spending. Between Black Friday and Boxing Day retailers and consumers engaged in a three week dance, each waiting for the other to take the lead and as a result sales suffered.”
Ortak returns to trade fair circuit after relaunch jewellery firm Ortak made a return to the trade fair circuit O rkney for the first time since the famous brand was relaunched in May of last year. The Kirkwall-based company attended last month’s Scotland’s Trade Fair event in Glasgow; the business, which had grown to become one of the islands’ best known jewellery manufacturers with outlets throughout the UK, ceased trading in March of this year after experiencing financial difficulties. However, the Ortak brand – including the intellectual property rights and original designs and patterns of the jewellery moulds and drawings – was bought over by a group of investors who formed a new company, Ortak Ltd, backed by a £136,400 grant from development agency Highlands and Islands Enterprise. The firm, which employs 16 staff, carries out manufacturing in a former dental practice in Kirkwall and also has a shop in the town’s Albert Street.
BJA Awards winners S
ix members of the British Jewellers’ Association were announced as winners of the Association’s third Annual Awards, which took place on 4th December 2014 in Solihull as part of the Benevolent Society Ball. With the Genuine Gemstone Company as headline sponsor, the Awards are designed to highlight the best of the UK’s diverse jewellery industry. Congratulations go to the following winners: Rare Pink (Newcomer of the Year sponsored by Presman Mastermelt), Claudia Waudby (Designer of the Year, sponsored by Clogau); Magpie (Supplier of the Year, sponsored by the N.A.G.); H&Y Jewellery of Knightsbridge (BJA Retailer of the Year, sponsored by NTR Metals); Gemporia (E-Tailor of the Year, sponsored by Continental Jewellery) and Presman Mastermelt (Member of the Year, sponsored by Hockley Mint). During the event a ‘money-can’t buy’ auction, raffle and tombola raised a total of £30,000 for the Federation’s Benevolent Society. The Ball was sponsored by the Birmingham Assay Office, Cooksons, Diamonds Please, Gems TV, Global Bullion, Rudell the Jewellers, TH March and Weston Beamor.
S N I P P E T S New MD for Holts Academy Following a successful period as head of operations, Anne Angell has been appointed as MD of Holts Academy. Coming from a background in education and jewellery, Angell specialises in employability, training and skills provision for enhanced performance and quality. These skills will be focusing on improving quality and delivery as well as expanding Holts internationally.
Luxury label launches Mishanto London, a company that dates back to 1932 and with a history in dealing in gemstones, period jewellery and bespoke pieces for private clients, has launched a collection of more accessible jewellery. Crafted in sterling silver and 18ct gold vermeil or rhodium plating, the rings, earrings, bracelets, pendants and rings feature a palette of faceted and cabochon gemstones. The affordable ‘Definitions’ collections, with prices starting at £50, is complemented by the ‘Synergy’ collection which offers extra luxury with diamond and sapphire-set pieces starting at £550 retail. Staying true to its roots, Mishanto London still has a bespoke service.
Extra role for Newton-Sherlock Naomi Newton-Sherlock, who was promoted to the post of creative director at Domino in 2013, has recently also been made a director of the brand’s sister company Weston Beamor. Newton-Sherlock, who returned to work in January after six months’ maternity leave, takes up the post with immediate effect. Her task will be to work with the existing WB team to grow further the company’s business especially in terms of its bespoke manufacturing services.
Final call for Rising Stars WB The Creative Group, and its media partner in the initiative, Retail Jeweller, is still on the lookout for nominations for its inaugural Rising Stars 30 under 30 Awards. Rising Stars 2015 will profile 30 of the jewellery and watch industry’s brightest talents, aged 30 and under, with a proven track record, who have made a difference to the businesses they work for. The organisers are looking for further entries from a number of disciplines in the industry – submit nominations by 6th February to: ruth.faulkener@emap.com The Magpie team receiving its award from Michael Rawlinson, N.A.G. CEO
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 11
INDUSTRY NEWS
Bremont features in new film B
ritish watch brand Bremont has designed a Special Edition Kingsman watch range, developed for a new Matthew Vaughn film Kingsman: The Secret Service. The three new models are featured throughout the film – which stars Colin Firth, Samuel L. Jackson and Michael Caine. The agents from the super-secret British spy organisation include Nick English, co-founder of Bremont, who makes a cameo appearance as one of the Kingsmen (below, on set); all can be seen exclusively wearing these custom-made Bremont timepieces. The Kingsman agents in the film each wear a rose gold chronograph World Timer on an alligator strap, while the trainee recruits sport a black stealth-like chronograph on a NATO band. Additionally the Kingsman Stainless Steel model is worn by Merlin (Mark Strong) who is the trainer of these potential super spies for the top secret Kingsman organisation. The watches play a key part in the film and are an integral tool in the secret agents’ gadget line-up.
I nternational
S N I P P E T S Gem sales prices hold steady Intense and competitive online and telephone bidding at Bonham NY’s last Fine Jewelry auction of 2014 saw sales total close to $4.1 million. Coloured gemstones, classic designs and signature pieces performed particularly well with notable highlights including a 8.45 ct diamond ring by Cartier realising $293,000, a 1920 Tiffany suite of demantoid garnet and enamel jewellery selling for $161,000 and a Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring going under the hammer for $118,750 – almost twice its high estimate.
Gem-A takes team to Tucson The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) has announced its upcoming plans for the Tucson Gem, Mineral and Fossil Showcase (31st January – 15th February). Over the course of the two week showcase Gem-A plans to introduce jewellers, gemmologists and mineralogists to its range of professional educational courses, membership services, instruments and publications through a number of exhibitions, workshops, and a special ‘Big Gem Bash’.
RJC announces new certified members The Responsible Jewellery Council has announced a number of members who have achieved certification by meeting the highest ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC. Among those are internationallyrenowned brand names Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget and Bulgari. During 2014 the Council gained 100 new members and last month it announced that 75 per cent of the membership is now certified.
Record-breaking Christmas sales for Casio Watches C
asio’s premium watch brands, G-Shock, Edifice and Sheen, all saw record-breaking sales over the festive season 2014, with sales of G-Shock up by 115 per cent, Edifice up by 143 per cent and Sheen up by 120 per cent compared to the previous year. According to Casio’s head of marketing Tim Gould, a highly successful collaboration with Formula One team Edifice Infiniti Redbull saw phenomenal record growth for Edifice timepieces, largely due to the huge success of the brand’s new hero product, the ERA-300RB-1AER. “This has been Casio’s most successful product launch ever,” he said. “The Edifice range has been supported by a six month Discovery TV campaign, versus a three month campaign last year, which has certainly driven both distribution and consumer awareness.”
12 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
Saying it with a rose Swiss watch brand Blancpain has launched a new model specifically for Valentine’s Day. The limited edition timepiece features a mother of pearl dial decorated with an inlaid rose in relief and 121 diamonds set into the white gold case and an off-centre hour movement.
White pearls turned gold Researchers in Thailand have discovered a way of turning white freshwater pearls gold, using light technology to modify the atoms inside the pearls. Moreover, the golden result also has more sparkle and images can be embedded onto the pearl. The technique was demonstrated at the Global Interposer Technology Fair 2014, held in December, by the Synchroton Light Research Institute.
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u o Y r
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
N.A.G.’s new education plan T
he start of 2015 sees the launch of the Association’s Education Providers’ Programme (EPP) – an innovative and, we hope, useful new service for our members. Located on the N.A.G. Education website, the Programme lists a number of partners who have agreed to work with us to provide industry-specific education, training or short courses.. Among the bodies and companies that to date feature on this one-stop educational shop are: Gem-A, the National Pawnbroking Association, the Birmingham Assay Office, Goldsmiths’ Company and Holts Academy. A click through on each association or business will introduce you to the courses on offer. In some cases special arrangements have been made for our members, such as courses not made generally available or potential savings. Goldsmiths’ Company, for example, will run a Fakes & Forgeries one-day course (in London, Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh) and will also offer new members a free punch and registration of the London Assay Office (worth £95) and current members can apply for free lifetime membership of Goldsmiths’ Company.
E D U C AT I O N P R OV I D E R S ’ PROGRAMME Raising performance through jewellery education & training.
The new EPP initiative – slogan: Raising Performance through Jewellery Education and Training – underscores the Association’s strong belief in the power of knowledge and the undoubted relevance of continual learning for jewellery industry professionals. If you would like to learn more about the new programme, as well as the existing N.A.G. courses, please get in touch or visit us on our joint N.A.G./BJA stand at Jewellery & Watch Birmingham.
‘Stronger Together’ at Jewellery & Watch Birmingham T
he first demonstration of our assertion that the N.A.G. and the BJA are certain to be ‘stronger together’ will be our bigger and bolder stand at the forthcoming Jewellery & Watch Birmingham show (1st – 5th February, NEC). The event will provide the perfect opportunity to meet with board members and officers from both associations, to discuss and express your views on the proposed unification. There will be a video presentation running that will outline the reasons and benefits of the proposed unification. During the show both associations will be on hand to answer any queries on educational courses, membership benefits, etc. Visit us on stand 18J60/K61.
N.A.G. looks to the North, South, East and West T
he Association is looking to restart its regional groups. We would like to gain feedback from members on initial interest in this project. We see this as a key part of supporting the industry and being a support to you within your localities. Please can you either call Robert on 020 7613 4445, write to him at 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG or email: robert.eden@jewellers-online.org
14 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
SaferGems launches Watch Register
S
aferGems, the joint N.A.G. and TH March security initiative, now has a new arm, a Watch Register. The register aims to help jewellers and pawnbrokers identify stolen watches by checking their serial numbers against a central database of identifiable stolen watches, held by SafeGems. The success of the register is enhanced by the cooperation and support of the industry and all police forces, which have supplied SaferGems with the required information. The register is now fully operational and is free to the industry for the first six months and free to police as a search facility for stolen identifiable watches.
New member applications To ensure that N.A.G. members are aware of new applications for membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications should email: membership@jewellersonline.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue. Ordinary Applications • Ascot Goldsmiths Ltd, Berkshire • The Silver Grove, London • Pawnbrokers Gold and Gems Ltd, Whittlesey • Ciaran O’Flynn Jewellers Ltd, Co. Tipperary, Ireland • Fexco Limited T/A No. 1 Currency, London Personal Associate Applications • Sarah Anne McCracken, Co. Armagh (Associate) • Sarah Elizabeth Carter, Devon (Associate • Jacqueline Chrismas, Surrey (Associate)
HALL 17 - STAND N14/P15 Unique Jewelry Ltd. Tel: 020 7405 5523 sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk www.uniquejewelry.co.uk
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
MEMBER of the
MONTH
Together with his wife Gillian, Thomas Jupp owns and runs Jupp Fine Jewellers in London’s Fleet Street. We asked him to tell us about the business. What is Jupp’s history? I initially worked in product design and engineering, but the maths, physics and lack of hands-on work drove me towards the fantastic, creative world of jewellery design and manufacture. In 1987, after completing a five-year apprenticeship I set up Thomas Jupp Jewellery. It was a tough period – 15-hour days, seven days a week, making, designing and selling to independents. Sadly the recession hit and I was owed so much money that I decided to sell direct from my own shop. We bought a shop and workshop in the most affluent area close to us – Dulwich. It worked very nicely apart from the horrendous crime in the area. Smash and grabs, a
mostly female lawyers and barristers and a fair few bankers. Goldman Sachs, KPMG and other organisations with highly paid, well-educated, articulate and interesting people surround us. I enjoy every day. We also have a police officer with a submachinegun stationed practically outside, forming part of the City’s ‘Ring of Steel’. Funnily enough we don’t seem to get much crime… How do you differ from other jewellers in the area? We try to stand out from the crowd by being fresh, contemporary and individual. We produce all our own platinum and gold pieces in a small workshop and also do bespoke work and really enjoy client
We have a police officer with a submachinegun stationed practically outside. Funnily enough we don’t seem to get much crime… constant stream of credit card fraud, knife threats and – the final straw – a gun pushed into my mouth, made me realise that a move might be beneficial to my well-being; we sold the freehold! Why Fleet Street? It seemed to me that the City boys did pretty well. I’m a strong believer in the redistribution of wealth so figured a shop on Fleet Street would help achieve this aim. We changed the name to Jupp Fine Jewellery. With a young family the pressure to trade seven days a week was uncomfortable – the City offers almost unheard of five-days-aweek trading. Our clients are
16 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
interaction. It’s very interesting trying to fully understand their needs and desires; travelling half way around the world at times to source gems. The only other Fleet Street jewellers sell antiques; there‘s really little crossover with them and I am quite happy to keep it that way. Have you always sold just your own designs? Years ago we sold watches but this pressured us to offer a watch repair service. But as we didn’t carry this out in-house, we didn’t have full control over the quality – any returns reflected badly on our business. We now focus on things we are specialists in.
We also gave up promoting companies trying to create their own brands. We helped them by having their branding all over the window and giving them prominence above ourselves. Madness on reflection. For lower end silver goods we now attend trade fairs in several Asian countries where we discuss our design ideas with quality silver manufacturers, tweaking models I have made. We’ve both studied gemmology so are confident purchasing pearls and gemstones from a variety of unusual suppliers. It pays to know what you’re looking at, as it’s quite common to be told that anything blue is sapphire, anything red is ruby and that everything is AAA quality! How have things changed since setting up? The structure of the supply line has changed. Once a big manufacturer would sell to a wholesaler who would sell onto the retailer. Now many manufacturers have websites selling direct, dictating the price a retailer can sell at. Branded products bring their own problem. The public walk in, try on and then buy cheaper from a website run from someone’s back bedroom. The high street is changing as a result; anybody retailing without their own identity is in a race to the bottom as far as I can see. I am very concerned that the high street is unfairly taxed through retail business rates, while the online retailer escapes almost tax-free! The Government is finally making
noises about addressing this imbalance.I am pleased that through the Kimberley Process, the trade has united globally against financing corrupt regimes and bloody wars. What future plans do you have? We intend to broaden our website further next year. It is a great marketing tool and helps us hugely. A big percentage of customers see items on our site, then come in to view and make a purchase. It really works for us. Why did you join the N.A.G.? The N.A.G. is highly regarded by the public; an organisation that many of our clients recognise. Membership is only entrusted to those who have met the required high standards. Regarding unification, I cannot see a conflict of interests. We all want an efficient industry that works to the highest level. Surely that’s best achieved by a combined association that will have an even greater depth of knowledge. Please share an amusing customer anecdote… A gentleman was purchasing a ring for his wife as a surprise and asked for it to be sized to fit. When quizzed about her finger size he somewhat uncertainly offered ‘D’ as a possibility. The female staff member advised that this was an exceptionally small finger size. He scratched his head: maybe this could be her bra size? The staff member confirmed that while ‘D’ is a small finger size, it is quite an ample bra size. The gentleman nodded enthusiastically: yes, in that case, it was definitely her bra size!
Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)
FOCUS ON EDUCATION
improve an existing one, this is the course for you. There are six modules in this full, flexible programme. Students can either sign up for one or more specific modules or enrol for the Diploma (taking all six modules). They will complete an assignment for each module undertaken to cement their understanding and gain qualification.
A business booster for 2015 A new year is as good a time as any to give a business a metaphoric shot in the arm and if that notion resonates with you then why not sign up to our Jet Business Development course (formally JETPro)? A modular, distancelearning programme, it covers
all the main areas a jewellery retailer needs to understand in order to have a sustainable and profitable business. If you are a supervisor, manager, proprietor or looking to open a business or significantly
Course content: • Market awareness • Managing financial variables • Customer management • Maximising a team’s potential • Professional operations management • Promoting your business Students will complete an assignment for each module undertaken to cement their understanding and gain qualification. Speaking of the course a previous student said: “I found that JET Business Development gave me a fresh look on my own business. It helped point out things that were perhaps obvious, but it’s very easy to be complacent and forget that a good business is only so because you’ve worked at it and if you stop working, it cannot remain a
good business. I would recommend this course to others – I think having a good knowledge of the trade first is helpful, so perhaps it’s a course for someone who has been in the industry a few years. If you’re looking into the option of setting up your own business I would definitely recommend it, as it covers a full range of business aspects.” Fitting in studying for the JET Business Development with work and private life is obviously a challenge, but with good organisation any student can complete the course. The Professional Jewellers’ Business Development Diploma is awarded to those who successfully complete the diploma programme (completing all six modules and assignments). Diploma graduates will be entitled to use the initials P.J. Biz. Dip. after their name. If you are interested in the course you will find more information on our website: www.nageducation. org/courses. Please call us on 020 7613 4445 #1 if you have any questions on the course or any other courses that we offer. You can also email us at this address: jet@jewellers-online.org
October’s Bransom winner We would like to congratulate Linzi Craig, formerly of Jamieson & Carry, now at Chisholm Hunter who has been chosen as the recipient of the coveted Bransom Award for October 2014. It is a particularly impressive achievement given that Linzi joined the jewellery industry as recently as July 2013, having given up a job in a department store. Eddie Stanley, who moderated Linzi’s work, commented: “One of her answers the most interesting and informative that it has been my pleasure to read and mark. It included a historical account of the origins of diamond grading
18 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
systems in the UK, followed by an explanation of each of the 4Cs in some depth. Particular coverage was given to the cut of a diamond, its perfection and the bearing this has on the value of the finished diamond. “It is clear Linzi has developed a high degree of customer care which she uses during the selling of diamond jewellery; she has demonstrated a high degree of customer contact skills. A variety of options are placed before the client which are accompanied by some really good, sound benefits for each suggestion.”
While enjoying the entire course, Linzi particularly relished “the challenging but enthralling” gemstone section and found that the most useful part of the programme was learning about hallmarking “and how to identify older and historic precious metals”. She added: “JET1 has opened my eyes to the detail which seemingly everyday objects hold. Although I had picked up knowledge through working in jewellery retail, I feel that this course helped me use the knowledge and build on it in a practical, usable and helpful way, making what I have learned an everyday resource. I strongly
recommend JET1 to everybody who has a passion for jewellery and whether you have just joined the trade or you have years of experience, it will be an invaluable resource for you. I look forward to hopefully being offered the chance to progress on to JET2.”
The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005
The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.
“
I wish I had joined EDF sooner; I thought about it for far too long! It makes you realise you are not alone out there and can share and discuss any issues you may have. Everybody is so helpful and friendly, the meetings are always enthusiastic and valuable and I love the email system that is in place where we can ask a question pretty much about anything (trade related of course!) and the question goes out to all members who normally start to respond within the hour. EDF member
”
For an annual subscription of £850 you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the EDF Members via: • a Q&A forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance on products, policy, or suppliers. You ask the question and the members answer, quite often by return • a new flash service, where relevant business and industry articles are emailed to your inbox • a shared monthly performance report that enables you to benchmark yourself against other retail jewellery businesses • educational store visits which allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing in their stores • three regional group meetings a year giving you the opportunity to discuss in detail the issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face, as well as develop new business skills • the opportunity to attend the annual Oxford Congress when members meet to make new contacts and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields
On 2nd December The Chancellor of the Exchequer George Osborne gave his annual Autumn Statement to Parliament. Second only in importance to the Budget, this time honoured tradition provides MPs with a formal update on the Government’s plans for the economy based on the latest forecasts from the independent Office for Budget Responsibility. So it seems appropriate to provide The Jeweller readers with an update on The Executive Development Forum. Growth: Membership has grown by 62.5 per cent in the first 11 months of 2014 and the future looks positive. Forecast: There is somewhat of a time lag between deciding and signing, with new members taking, in some cases, years to commit. To help overcome any potential concerns about membership, during the year every independent N.A.G. retailer received a personalised letter outlining the structure, services, fees and benefits of membership. North South Divide: taking an ‘old school’ straight line across from the Bristol Channel to the Wash, 73 per cent of the members’ businesses are South of this divide – a concerning statistic that needs to be understood further (suggestions welcomed). Gender: the mix of new members was split equally between the sexes, with women now making up 35 per cent of the total membership, up from 25 per cent in 2013. Trading: continues to be difficult, yet the latest members’ performance report posted encouraging overall numbers on stock control, sales turnover and margin growth despite a decline in unit sales. Outlook for 2015: members are expecting more of the same in terms of the management challenges that they have faced in 2014: — Succession planning — The loss of high profile brands — Pricing for profit — Staffing issues — Attracting consumer spend — Margin pressure Challenges that the members’ shared experience and expertise help others overcome.
If you would like any further information visit the NAG website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer: on 020 7613 4445, email her at amandaw@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122
SHOW PREVIEW
it’s showtime! Jewellery & Watch Birmingham is so close now your next-best-thing-antennae are probably primed and ready to go; you can surely smell that brand new carpet and your feet are already aching in anticipation of the miles of aisles. Let the fun commence!
Notes on a theme
And the winner is….
If you’re heading for the show armed with (or looking for) ideas of new style directions for 2015, then JWB is offering you a handy position to start from. The theme of this year’s show is focused on the concept of ‘Origins’, itself originating from the WGSN macro-trends for 2015/16. The mood describes the ‘essence of identity through jewellery – the meaning, personal value, attachment and memories associated with individuals’ treasured pieces’.
A jewellery show just wouldn’t be the same without a healthy handful of awards and a glass of fizz to toast the winners. And this year JWB has more than its fair share to keep us happy. The one that visitors will (arguably) be anticipating the most is the Buyers Power List awards. The inaugural ceremony held during the London show last year saw accolades handed out to Beaverbrooks, Stuart Laing of Laings of Glasgow, Johnny Rocket, Fortnum & Mason and the V&A Museum.
It’s a particularly emotive story, which has at its heart the inspiration of the designer, whose every piece naturally contains part of themselves. This then follows through to the manufacturers, brands and distributors who build the story then engage the retailers… who in turn add their own element to the tale through the buying experience they pass on to the consumer. It’s what, in the end, makes jewellery special.
For 2015, the awards will be divided into six categories: Best Independent Retailer (five or fewer outlets), Best Multiple Retailer (six or more outlets), Best Department Store, Best Individual Buyer, Best Watch Retailer, and Best Heritage Site, Museum or Gallery. The introduction of a watch retailer category, as well as the addition of heritage sites to the museums and galleries category, will open up the competition to a whole host of new names for 2015. A shortlist of 10 names across the six categories have been asked to peer-review within their category, which will then identify the best buyers of 2015 and the winners will be announced at an awards ceremony on Monday 2nd February.
The show’s theme images feature an ethereal model wearing gold and vermeil bangles and earrings by Mark Milton, a rose gold Cascade pendant and rings by Fei Liu, and gold flower and leaf rings designed by Alex Monroe. Hasanthi Ovesen at Weston Beamor
20 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
Entries for the BJA’s annual catwalk jewellery competition closed on 3rd December 2014 and this year will focus on exotic, statement earrings that are worthy of appearing on the show’s runway. Sponsored by the show’s organisers, the competition is open to designers and
jewellery companies across the UK and calls for “strong, fresh and high-quality designs that are both on-trend and commercially viable”. As well as seeing their pieces on the catwalk, the creators of the winning designs in the two categories (Precious Metal and Fashion) will receive £1,000 each towards the cost of a stand at the 2016 show. The winners will be announced on the catwalk on Monday 2nd. A Champagne reception on the same day will see the winners of another prestigious competition announced… and we now know the finalists. The jewellery consortium the Houlden group has announced the names of the finalists shortlisted for its 2015 Bridal Design of the Year competition. Designers from Domino, Hockley Mint and Brown & Newirth, as well as designer maker Rachel Galley, are finalists in the two categories. The judging panel of Houlden group members whittled down double the number of entries on last year, to arrive at the shortlist. The winning designs will be sold through Houlden’s network of stores and will also be showcased on the daily catwalks. Celebrations aside, you will also want to make time to take in a seminar or two. As ever, the show has an impressive line-up of expert speakers on subjects that range from visual merchandising and creating a website, to translating trends and executing a marketing campaign.
Exhibitor news The Birmingham casting house and 3D printing company Weston Beamor invariably offers its own crowdpulling events at trade shows, and during JWB this year it will have not one but two attractions. The stand (17P40/Q41) will be showcasing the work of fine jeweller Hasanthi Ovesen who has been working with WB for the past six months to bring her complex designs to reality. She will be on the stand on Tuesday 3rd February, to discuss the technical challenges that some of her pieces posed to the WB team and to explain how the designs were finally created. The company will also play host to Victoria Waugh of the Fairtrade Foundation who will be spending the Tuesday of the show on its stand. WB was one of the very early adopters of Fairtrade certified metals and the first casting company in the UK to gain production certification. It has relatively recently expanded its remit to offer casting in Fairtrade certified silver and well as in gold. “We are pleased to be able to report that the supply of Fairtrade metals is now much larger than it once was and we are able to offer our customers significant production runs in both gold and silver. A new scheme designed to make it easier for businesses to buy Fairtrade gold has just been launched and we are delighted to welcome Victoria to our stand where she will be able to give retailers and exhibitors
more information about this important initiative and advise how they can get involved,” says Glen Day, business development manager at WB. In response to Fairtrade’s new ‘I Do’ campaign (see our wedding jewellery feature on p48 for more details) the CMJ’s own bridal brand Mastercut Diamond, will be launching a Fairtrade gold collection at the show (Stand 17N04). “Mastercut’s best selling designs will now be available in Fairtrade gold, giving CMJ retailers the option of offering a Fairtrade product to their customers,” said CMJ’s CEO Willie Hamilton. Each year the show attracts a host of new brands and first-time exhibitors, along with the familiar faces, and then there are the returnees. Among the latter is family-run production house UJT which has chosen to come back to the Birmingham show following a hiatus of a number of years as well as a company-wide ‘re-fresh’. The London-based company (with offices in Mumbai and Bangkok) will be showing two different diamond and gemstone qualities within its fine jewellery ranges. Modern designs will be shown alongside more traditional pieces incorporating tanzanite and sapphire among other gems. Also on the stand will be the company’s more affordable Boudici brand, with gem-set pieces in 9ct gold designed by Ivona Poplanska – a first-time exhibitor at the Birmingham Show. To further whet your appetite for JWB, over the following ten pages we have highlighted a selection of brands and designers – new and regulars – who will be launching new collections at the show.
Mastercut
JWB at Spring Fair Halls 17 and 18, NEC, Birmingham 1st – 5th February, 2015 Opening times: 09.00 – 18.00, Sunday - Wednesday Thursday 5th: 09.00 – 16.00 For more information about the show, as well as listings, visit: www.jewelleryand watchbirmingham.com
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 21
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SHOW PREVIEW
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Amulette
Amulette will be launching its ‘Coil’ charm rings, which can be worn on their own or loaded with charms and stacked with others for more impact. The charms slide easily on and off the rings to re-arrange and so create different looks. (Stand 18DQ46)
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From the Ayrshire silversmith’s Robert Burns-inspired collection this ‘Ae Fond Kiss’ set of pendant and drop earrings bin sterling silver and featuring part of a Celtic love knot, which, on closer inspection, creates ‘kisses’ where the silver crosses over within the design. Also being shown is the ‘My Luv is..’ line featuring hammered silver hearts. (Stand 18D60)
Founded in 2009 by Kris Rogers – a carpenter by trade, who taught himself to craft precious metals – Shiruba Tree presents an alternative collection of rings that blend exotic woods with sterling silver, gold, palladium and platinum. Clean of line and contemporary, they might be wedding, engagement, commitment or friendship rings. (Stand 18E59)
Give
This family-run, New Zealandbased business designs and creates hand-finished, sustainable jewellery boxes made from natural wood. Each luxury box is made from a single piece of timber in order to showcase the matching grains of the lid and base. (Stand 17T59)
Augustine
Albion
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Albion’s state-of-the-art factory in Delhi manufactures bespoke pieces by hand or as one off castings. The company, which has a workshop and support office in Hatton Garden, designs and sources its gems in Mumbai, Jaipur and Bangkok (Stand 17S44)
Zeppelin & Junkers Following the launch of Junkers last year, Pointtec UK is introducing Zeppelin watches. See p60 for a Brand Profile on the new line. (Stand 18J14)
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Sheila Kerr
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Shiruba Tree
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George Clooney’s romantic Venice wedding earlier this year has inspired the first bridal collection from Alexandra Robson’s Augustine Jewels. And ‘Ti Amo’ is in keeping with previous collections in taking a luxury destination as its inspiration – Venetian Burano lace was a particular source of creative influence for engagement rings and other pieces, with the stones placed so as to give the impression of wearing lace. Each ring can come with a detachable bracelet – a nod to Venice as the gateway to the East. (Stand 18DQ26)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 23
SHOW PREVIEW
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Amore
The new ‘Love Silver’ collection will include ’Loving Life’ featuring CZ and ruby or sapphire set in silver. Also new is the ‘Love and Kisses’ collection – created with Valentine’s Day in mind – and featuring an open frame pendant set with CZ and with matching earrings available. Also on show will be a strong line of yellow gold jewellery set with diamonds and gemstones and rhodium-plated silver pieces featuring coloured stones. (Stand 18G03)
A strong industrial theme fused with graphic influences will be the focus of Fred Bennett’s new collection of men’s jewellery. In 925 sterling silver, stainless steel and leather the line is fashionably masculine. Also new for spring will be two new watch models – a classic style in stainless steel and a sports watch with black leather strap. (Stand 18K30/L31)
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Mark Milton
Responding to the growing demand for yellow gold and gold vermeil, Mark Milton has created pieces to cater for all budgets. There is a particular focus on bigger styles, including curvaceous pendants in 9ct gold and long chains with vermeil links. Spring also sees a return to large earrings as well as big, colourful stones added across the collections. (Stand 17R30/S31)
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Dower & Hall
To commemorate the brand’s 25th anniversary the design duo has delved into the archives and revived and re-worked some of the bestsellers from the past two decades. These will sit alongside new collections, including ‘Fireworks’ – pendants, drop earrings, bangles and rings featuring gemstones such as tsavorites, sapphires and black diamonds, flush set into the curved metal. (Stand 18C28/E29)
24 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
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Fred Bennett by Gecko
Bering
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The key model from the Danish watch brand moves the cool Arctic look forward with the introduction of its blue ceramic collection – an industry ‘first’. Four years in the development, the four models in the new line are scratch-resistant and join the black, white and brown ceramic offer. (Stand 18 H28/J29)
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SHOW PREVIEW
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Candino Watches
Founded in 1947, this Swiss watch brand is well-positioned to cater to the booming sector of the market looking for affordable, quality, Swiss-made watches. Whether sporty, classic or elegant, the timepieces (Swiss quartz or automatic movements, most with sapphire glass) offer great value for money, retailing as they do between £99 and £439). (Stand 18M28/N29)
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Shown here is a piece from Balagan’s new ‘Narrate’ collection, which is available in silver, yellow gold and rose gold vermeil. The ethos of the line revolves around jewellery that tells a story, captures a moment or highlights an emotion. (Stand 18 K8/L29)
Gemex
Engelsrufer
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The guardian angel-inspired brand has added new designs to its sterling silver collection that features colourful sound balls – some set with CZ and each with a different symbolic meaning. As each ball is handmade it has a slightly different look and sound and the pendants themselves also come in rose or yellow gold plating and can be opened to insert a different coloured ball. (Stand 17N14/P15)
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The leading engagement and commitment ring specialist will be showcasing a large range of diamond shoulder and halo set engagement rings set with oval, pear, marquise, emerald and princess cut centres – all of which proved popular in 2014. (Stand 17S04/T05)
Sif Jakobs
The new Sif Jakobs collection represents cool sophistication with a glamorous and contemporary look – a mix of everyday classics and edgy statement pieces. The look ranges from daring pieces such as double finger ring and earsticks with a rock’n’roll-look, to simple, low-key earrings and pendants. All designs are accented by the designer’s own sense of aesthetics and with the great attention to detail and quality. (Stand 18L40/M41)
Martick Jewellery s Chavin
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The charity-minded jewellery brand is introducing the new ‘Feline Spirit’ bracelets collection at the show. This second stage of the line (the first was launched for S/S 2014) represents Water, Fire and Celestial – three of the seven spirits of the ancient Chavin jaguar god. Made from sterling silver as well as 18ct rose gold plate on silver. (Stand 18DQ01)
26 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
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Balagan
There will be love gifts aplenty on Martick’s stand, with motifs ranging from love birds in silver and vermeil, Murano heart pendants with double gold plated chains and keys and padlocks for earrings in vermeil or silver. (Stand 18D30/E31)
Domino
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Domino will unveil its new Wedding Collection at the show. Available in platinum as well as 18ct white, yellow and rose gold, it comprises a very commercial selection of classic wedding rings as well as contemporary designs. New for 2015 are bi-colour bands combining white, rose and yellow alloys, as well as new band profiles available across a variety of widths. (Stand 17P40/Q41)
Fiorelli by Gecko
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Among the seven new collections being launched at the show will be Fiorelli’s brilliant bright costume jewellery pieces; Fiorelli Silver’s pretty, symmetrical patterns mixed with inlay and pavé; Fred Bennett’s silver, stainless steel and leather men’s pieces with an industrial theme and Elements Gold feminine, organic form pieces. Elements Silver and D for Diamond complete the Gecko brand portfolio. (Stand 18K30/L31)
Unique Jewels
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A modern, young, urban and affordable collection of jewellery in sterling silver – mostly plain matt, but occasionally highlighted by rose gold plating or finished with freshwater pearls. The line also includes colourful leather bracelets with stainless steel or gold plated clasps and featuring different charms. (Stand 17N14/P15)
Wolf Endless Jewelry
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Offering a range of romantic heart charms and new leather bracelets (in red or dove grey), the soon-to-be-revealed ‘Love Collection’ is a shoe-in for Valentine’s Day of course, but with year-round appeal. The 10 new charms are in sterling silver and gold plate with pink and white zirconia stone accents. (Stand 18L28/M29)
s
In addition to its range of watch winders (showcasing a range of new colours) Wolf will be launching two of its latest collections of accessories and jewellery boxes. The Blake range for men includes lizard and pebble grain leather watch and cufflink boxes, watch rolls, valet tray, tablet case and credit card wallet. The Chloe collection for women features a luxurious cut design leather jewellery case in cream or black. (Stand 17 R60)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 27
SHOW PREVIEW
s
Storm
The watch and jewellery brand is introducing the new Floating Swarovski Crystal collection, which features the ‘Sparkelli’ watch with its floating crystals within the case. To complete the look the line also includes a co-ordinating ‘Mimi’ bracelet, necklace and ring. (Stand 18 H30/J31)
Kleshna
s
Putting femininity at the forefront, delicate pavé set pieces and elegant organic forms work together to create the new ‘Elements Gold’ range. A fusion of the contemporary and classic, it features new rose gold with freshwater pearls and fire opals. (Stand 18 K30/L31)
Ti Sento
Featuring Swarovski pearls in a variety of colours, Kleshna’s new ‘Layered Pearl’ collection includes the ‘Pearl Drop’ necklace. With a choice of long and short, gold plated or sterling silver chains, it’s perfect for layering and creating bespoke looks. Complementing these, the pearl ball bracelet has a contemporary feel, with each pearl interspersed with a gold or silver ball. (Stand 18E30/F31)
s
Elements Gold by Gecko
s
Marking ‘the beginning of a new, hopeful era’ Ti sento’s collection for spring 2015 is inspired by light, colours and new structural directions with plenty of surface textures and pavé set lines. The new line is led by organic shapes for stones and fresh colours like sky blue and light greens set in sterling silver and white with rose gold plating. (Stand 17T28/U29)
28 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
SHOW PREVIEW
s
C6 by Anne Cohen
The award-winning Danish jewellery designer brings together the two opposing forms of carbon – graphite and diamond – for her innovative, contemporary and very different wedding rings. The combination of science and aesthetics results in jewellery ‘as black as coal and clear as light’. While the more obvious wedding bands feature white stones, the ‘Supernovva’ style is set with coloured diamonds. (Stand 18DQ28)
Alex Monroe
s
This floral riviere necklace featuring Swarovski ‘peridot’ crystals is from the new collection by the Cape Town-based designer jewellery brand. A core collection of ‘Precious Basics’ is complemented by vibrant colour statement pieces using gemstones, freshwater pearls and crystals. (Stand 18C06)
Russell Lord
Clogau
Established in 1974, the Hatton Garden-based jeweller will be showing a new collection of fine jewellery, set with rare gemstones and diamonds, handmade by Russell and Robert Lord. (Stand 17S35)
s
Symbols of femininity, grace and gentility – as well as luxury – orchids were highly prized during the Victorian era and now Clogau celebrates its exotic beauty with a new ‘Orchid’ collection in rose gold set with pink stones. Also new is the ‘Daffodil’ collection that incorporates the national flower of Wales together with the Celtic weave. (Stand 17Q28/R29)
s
Miglio
s
This British designer’s love for making things has inspired ‘The Haberdashery’ line, which delves into the sewing box for nostalgic trinkets such as scissors, needles, thread and fastenings. Meanwhile, in the natural world, ‘Beyond the Sea’ describes a delicate, sentimental and occasionally witty collection of ocean-inspired pieces. Anchors, whales, billowing sales and a diamond-stealing crab are among the nautical forms. (Stand 18DQ06)
Diamonfire
s
A number of new pieces have been released for the spring season, including a vintage-style brooch, set with cubic zirconia stones and a cultured pearl; yellow gold-plated styles and open-work necklaces featuring butterflies, hearts and flowers. (Stand 17Q40)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 31
SHOW PREVIEW
s
LucyQ s
Echoing her successful ‘Splat’ collection, designer LucyQ will be launching the new ‘Open Splat’ line, inspired by the explosion of water droplets as they land. In highly polished sterling silver, the range will include ring, stud earrings, pendant necklace and bracelet. She will also be introducing new pieces to the ‘Drip’ line. (Stand 18DQ30)
The Copenhagen-based jewellery brand, run by husband and wife team Christian and Malene Storm, will be showing fashion pieces in bold, geometric shapes, designed to be mixed and matched and layered together. (Stand 18A14/B15)
Boudici
s
Dansk Smykkekunst
Designed by Ivonna Poplanska, this affordable gemstone collection from UJT will present new rose gold combinations, as well as the existing 9ct yellow gold ‘English Rose’ and ‘Dew Drop’ ranges, set with coloured gemstones and pavé diamonds. (Stand 17R06/S07)
s
Deakin & Francis
Claudia Bradby
A new collection of dramatic pieces inspired by the sea will be unveiled by Orkney-based designer Sheila Fleet. These silver and enamel hand-finished styles will be complemented by her successful ‘snowdrop’ collection and the full ‘Daisy’ range, as well as other pieces in gold, palladium and platinum set with diamonds, gemstones and pearls. (Stand 18DQ48)
s
Due to popular demand, cufflink manufacturer Deakin & Francis has extended its range of black spinel designs, which first launched last September. The line of ants, scorpions, skulls, spiders and sharks has been complemented by less dangerous and creepy stars, ovals and oblongs set in silver with mother of pearl and vitreous enamel. (Stand 17T04)
s
Sheila Fleet
Coeur de Lion
s
Specialising in cultured pearl jewellery, Claudia Bradby is introducing three new lines for this season – ‘English Rose’ with dusky pink pearls, ‘Margarita’ featuring baroque pearls and ‘Calypso’ with green amazonite and Peruvian opals. Shown here is the best-seller ‘Constantine’ pearl and silver set. (Stand 18G15)
The German fashion jewellery brand is launching two new ranges for spring – ‘Vivid Coeur’ featuring vibrant statement pieces and ‘Soft Coeur’ using pastel shades. Inspirations for the collection include art and architecture, with Swarovski crystals and gemstones featuring for bracelets, earrings and statement necklaces. (Stand 18G28/H29)
32 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
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Ultrasonic Cleaning makes cleaning jewellery a doddle. Cleaning your jewellery can all so often be a chore, but with an Ultrasonic cleaner, cleaning your jewellery is easy, no chemicals, no scrubbing and no poking into tiny crevasses. Just fill the tank with warm water and a few drops of detergent or SeaClean2 (which has been specially formulated to enhance the clean and remove tarnish), place your jewellery in the basket, select your required cleaning time (90 secs - 10 mins) and let the ultrasonic cleaner do all the hard work for you.
It’s easy, it’s quick and it gives the sparkle back to your jewellery. For more information, contact our sales team on 01258 820100 or visit www.jamesproducts.co.uk
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MY iMenso
s
The ‘New Horizons’ collection features pieces in three themes – Treasure Island in blues and greens, Words of Wisdom in rose and light grey and Another Side of You which includes hematite in purple, green and gold metallics to express personality traits. Alongside new beads, rings, pendants and bracelets, will be a selection of Valentine’s Day pieces. (Stand 18N40P41)
This interchangeable coin system allows customers to personalise every detail, including name and photo engraving, as well as layer up to four of the coins for an individual look. New for spring is a butterfly design as well as a range of rings in sterling silver and yellow and rose gold plating. (Stand 17N14/P15)
With their strong association with sports and cycling/Tour de France in particular, Festina watches are designed to be dynamic, sporty and stylish, with details inspired by racing and also aviation. (Stand 18M28/N29)
A design-led collection in stainless steel, titanium and tungsten. The new line uses plaited leather in combination with the metals to create contemporary, masculine looks and extra designs – focusing on great detail – have been added to the cufflink range. (Stand N14/P15)
Lily & Lotty
s
The new ‘Scripted’ range features sterling silver circular message pendants (22 rhodium plated, 11 in yellow gold plate and nine in rose gold plate) which interlock to make double or triple ring pendants. They can be composed of all silver circles or a combination of silver/ yellow gold or rose gold plated, inscribed with a personal message, chosen by the customer. Each pendant ring is set with two diamond accents. (Stand 18N21)
34 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
s
Inspired by fairy tales and nature, Francesca’s newest collection imagines that fairies have picked up delicate branches or drops of volcanic lava, to adorn themselves. For instance, the ‘Burnt Forest’ collection pieces in oxidised silver sparkle with marcasite and blue pearls. (Stand 18DQ49)
Festina
s
Unique Mens
Francesca Marcenaro
s
s
Trollbeads
s
Lotus Watches
Combining function and on-trend aesthetics, Lotus watches speak to a modern audience looking for elegance and exclusivity. Brand ambassador Marc Marquez, the 2014 Moto GP world champion, has inspired a chronograph collection, as well as a limited edition chrono with steel bracelet and rubber strap. (Stand 18M28/N29)
s
Manja
Among a wide range of jewellery suited to Valentine’s Day is a selection of stacking rings in 14ct gold and sterling silver, featuring openwork hearts and stone set bows. The new line also includes heart pendants, ‘love’ bracelets and pavé charms. (Stand 17U28/30)
s
As well as introducing a new collection inspired by the beehive, Manja will be showing an expanded Anansi range of jewellery, with new versions of the original spider and web design in rhodium plated and gold plated silver, set with coloured stones. (Stand 18N49)
Wedds & Co
s
Pandora
The success of Wedds & Co’s wedding ring sample boxes will see the company launch over 150 new lines across plain and diamond set… along with a new catalogue to complement an updated website. To ensure that retailers can choose boxes to suit their own store’s style, the boxes come with an assortment of coloured linings and each houses 86 sample rings across five profile styles. (Stand 17R14)
Tankel
s
Continued growth in the sale of D Colour SI diamonds remained exceptionally strong for Tankel in 2014, and demand for these goods has increased significantly as the reputation of the company has spread. New for 2015 are fancy shapes such as ovals, marquise, pears, hearts, emerald cuts and cushion shapes in the D-colour range. Many of these have been made as ‘halo’ style jewellery. (Stand 17Q11)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 35
SHOW PREVIEW
s
PJ Watson
The fine jewellery company is now concentrating very much on oneof-a-kind pieces; the pendant here is set with a 0.39 carat natural fancy orange yellow diamonds. It is typical of the type of jewellery that gives customers the opportunity of finding stock that will set them apart from their competitors. (Stand 17R25)
Hinna Azeem
s
Jewellery designer Hinna (who is descended from the royal Kayani tribe of Persia) is inspired by her global search for exclusive gemstones, as well her family background in jewellery. This season she launches her ‘Birds of Paradise’ collection which comprises 18ct gold rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings which feature Ethiopian opals, morganites, black and white diamonds and yellow sapphires. (Stand 18D40)
Rachel Galley
s
JCM London
The ‘Serenity Sapphire’ collection features a range of pieces in a myriad colours. Facet cut sapphires are chosen for their unique shape, and the design is guided by the gemstones themselves. Flanked by a pavé topaz setting in oxidized rhodium and 18ct gold vermeil to offset the natural beauty of the sapphire lends them a vintage, heritage feel. Each piece is carefully considered to enhance the gemstones, with a play on light, colour, shape and form. (Stand 18J61)
Oxygen Watches
s
Leather has been added to this Parisian concept brand which features interchangeable NATO straps – the vintage style watch with steel case and domed glass comes with a classic leather strap while the Diver 40 style comes boxed with one leather and one NATO strap. (Stand 18M28/N29)
36 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
s
Along with a brand new bridal collection featuring pavé set, highly polished gold and platinum wedding and engagement ring sets, Rachel Galley will be launching ‘Ocean’, ‘Wave’, ‘Cascade’ and ‘Stack’ collections in silver, plus new pieces in the best-selling ‘Molto’ range. (Stand 18DQ20)
Essemgé
s
Sophie Martin-Glinel’s recently created brand plays on volumes, textures and colours for eyecatching creations in aluminium, silicone rubber and silver. One of the four new collections in ‘Graphic’ which offers a ‘smart day-to-night’ look that is as edgy as it is feminine. (Stand 18D50)
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FEATURE
UNIFICATION
survey results A recent survey of the membership of the N.A.G. and the BJA has provided an overwhelmingly positive response to the proposed unification of the two associations. Here we present the findings in some detail.
A
s any pollster will confirm, it is notoriously hard to get people to respond to surveys. So the fact that over 10 per cent of the two association’s 2,600-strong, joint membership filled in an on-line questionnaire at the end of 2014, is testimony to the fact that jewellers clearly take their trade associations seriously and very much care about their future. Together the two bodies represent businesses at all levels of the jewellery supply chain, from designer makers through to multiple retailers and everything in between, however – when the responses were combined – far and away the largest number of replies (at least a third) were received from independent retailers, both bricks and mortar and online. It was not a surprising figure – the N.A.G. primarily represents retailers and the BJA also numbers a fair percentage of on-line and more alternative
retailers among its more varied membership. Suppliers to the trade, wholesalers and designer makers were also well represented. Most of the companies surveyed were, as one would expect, relatively small. Just over 50 per cent of N.A.G. responders employed just 1-5 people, while this was the case for nearly 70 per cent of responding BJA members. That said there were also responses received within both organisations from companies employing 251 and more people. Arguably the most important question for those charged with bringing the unification to fruition was: ‘Do you think the proposed unification will result in a positive outcome for the industry?’ The answer was a resounding ‘Yes’ with just four per cent of those who responded saying ‘No’.
Do you think the proposed unification will result in a positive outcome for the industry? n Yes n Don’t know n No
38 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
A top priority for the newlyunified association will be to provide the right mix of services and benefits to its membership and to this end the questionnaire set out to establish what people see as being the most important reasons to belong to a trade association. The survey presented a range of options including ‘Setting and Maintaining Industry Standards’, ‘Education & Training’, ‘Lobbying’ and ‘Networking’.
Michael Rawlinson, chief executive of the N.A.G., is gratified that the survey highlighted the relevance of training: “The N.A.G. has a long history of providing our members with specialist jewellery education which supports them to be professional and knowledgeable, and helps them to run better and more profitable businesses. I am delighted that our investment in this area of the Association’s work is so highly valued and I look forward to ensuring we maintain our quality of provision in the future,” he said. When asked to rate the services the two associations currently provide on a scale from nought to five, with five representing good value, the top performer was ‘Industry Information’ at a very solid 3.64. ‘Promoting your Business’, ‘Education’ and the ‘Legal Helpline’ also performed well among all members.
Having the positive backing from so many members at this stage of the process is a real encouragement… Michael Rawlinson, N.A.G. CEO
When the responses were combined, far and away the most popular service, which was also the most popular among individual groups of responders, was ‘Business Credibility’, at just over 80 per cent. The ability to use the trade association logo was the second most popular reason for the combined group at over 60 per cent. ‘Financial Savings on Services’ also scored highly. N.A.G. members saw ‘Education and Training’ as being more important than their BJA counterparts (60 per cent to just over 30 per cent) while BJA members preferred the ideas of ‘Access to Industry Sales Data’ and ‘Financial Savings on Services’.
The thorny issue of Membership Subscriptions was also tackled and here a very creditable 84 per cent of respondents saw their trade association as offering either ‘good’ or ‘fair’ value for money. At present the N.A.G. is based close to the City of London and the BJA in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, and so the question: ‘Do you have a preference for the office location?’ was posed. The answer was split. Half of the respondents ‘don’t care’ or ‘don’t know’ while 26 per cent opted for London and 24 per cent for Birmingham.
Primary Jewellery Business Type (both N.A.G. and BJA Members)
n Independent retailer – bricks and mortar n Independent retailer – bricks and mortar and online n Manufacturer n Designer/maker n Supplier to the trade n Supplier of services to the trade (packaging, insurance, marketing, etc.) n Other
Finally, the overwhelming majority of people surveyed said they wanted to be kept informed on future developments as the merger progresses, with 80 per cent opting to receive email updates. A small but significant 22 per cent of people said they would like further involvement in the merger process and their feedback will be actively sought as the process continues. While the response received was tremendously positive there were, as one might expect, a few dissenting voices, who when asked ‘Can you identify any reasons why the two associations should not proceed with their plans to unify?’ could indeed come up with some grounds for non-merger. The main stumbling blocks for the twelve people who voiced their unease were the possibility of increased membership costs due to higher overheads; the fact that the two associations represent people on opposing sides of a commercial equation;
their different agendas and the ethics of their respective members, with one or two people on both sides seemingly believing that members of their trade association have greater integrity than those belonging to the other. Rawlinson, counters some of these concerns: “Although it is natural to think suppliers and retailers have opposing objectives, in the end I believe the role of the trade association is to ensure the trade can operate smoothly and increase the demand from consumers to own and wear jewellery. In this regard, there is a united and aligned objective. I don’t see any need for increases in costs, and we will actually see some saving very quickly. In time, we will review all of the costs of the business and look to rationalise what we do, so that we can deliver more for the same membership fee, rather than cut costs and our services.”
be savings to be made in terms of economies of scale, for both organisations when the merger takes place. Increased membership numbers may also provide additional buying power from service providers to allow us to offer even better deals.”
should be fighting, not each other. The relationship between retailers and their suppliers should, as all successful jewellery businesses will tell you, be close and co-operative; there is nothing to be gained from an ‘us and them’ mentality.”
He is “absolutely delighted by the overwhelmingly positive response” received to the survey. He believes all of the questions raised will be fully addressed which should provide reassurance to all those with concerns.
Rainer also dismisses what he sees as some respondents’ erroneous beliefs about ‘dodgy’ business practices. “We should all be embracing more ethical business practices and the BJA has recently published its Guide
Sounding off – Members’ comments n n n
n
n
n n n n n n n n
The BJA’s CEO Simon Rainer, agrees: “There will undoubtedly
…the industry must learn to work more closely together and members should collaborate to promote and sell more jewellery. Simon Rainer, BJA CEO
“ I would expect that [the new association] will provide wider trade information with a full picture of the UK market…” “ I feel it only adds more credibility to my business to be a member and I would welcome it…” “ With so many businesses and their clients now operating online, it would be good to see a trade association that was more aware of the importance of social media, and online engagement…” “ The future is online business so we need expert advice on generating awareness of our presence, and the new association must do more to advertise its website which should have a list of its members and their strengths…” “ It is useful to know people are at the end of a phone to help and advise should the need arise… I feel more confident that it is there” “ We need a larger and louder voice to the Government…” “ [I would like to see] accredited lists of ethical suppliers of gems and precious metals…” “ [We need] a joined up approach to all aspects of issues facing the jewellery industry…” “ [I would like] more opportunity for networking and member to member dealing and services…” “ Training sessions north of the border would be good!” “ If small businesses are forgotten about [the unification] would be a disaster…” “ Retailers, valuers and manufacturers do not share the same goals…” “ As a small business owner I am conscious of rising costs and hope this would not exclude me because of increases…”
Rainer also feels very strongly that the two associations are not on ‘opposing sides’ as one respondent put it. “As both the BJA and N.A.G. have been saying for some years, the industry must learn to work more closely together and members should collaborate to promote and sell more jewellery. It is the other luxury goods industries we
to Jewellers’ Social Responsibility which tackles this very point. This is has been written to guide all types of jewellery companies – retailers, manufacturers, designers and everyone else – as to how they can provide a more ethical framework for their company, not simply in how they source and produce products but also in how they treat their staff
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 39
FEATURE
Reasons to belong to a trade association – all respondents % ranked in the top 4 n Business credibility n Use of N.A.G. coat of arms or BJA logo n Financial savings on services (e.g. sta nd at trade shows, etc.) n Education/training provision n Mentoring n Access to trade information n Networking n Business Support n SaferGems and security support n Lobbying (laws and regulations) n Member discounts/benefits n Access to industry sales data and reports n Setting and maintaining industry standards (Code of practice) n Other
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
and how they operate in the larger business and communities. The views it expresses will be at the heart of any new association,” he concluded. All of the questions raised will be fully addressed in due course, which should provide reassurance to all those with concerns.
members at this stage of the process is a real encouragement, and will spur us all on to ensure we prepare the ground for a forward looking unified trade association. Continuing to build consumer confidence in the jewellery trade through a robust and enforceable code of conduct will be a responsibility of the
So, what happens next? “We are working very hard to bring this to reality and are hopeful of being able to bring the unification to fruition by the summer of 2015,” says Rainer. Rawlinson is also optimistic for a summer conclusion: “Having the positive backing from so many
new association. My colleagues are ready to play their part in building this bright new future.” The two are supported in their efforts by a unification working party drawn from members of both associations. The working party comprises: Andrew Hinds (F Hinds), Simon Johnson (Marmalade) and Pravin Pattni (Minar Jewellers) from the N.A.G, and Gary Wroe (Hockley Mint), Gary Williams (Presman Mastermelt) and Helen O’Neill (PMC) who are BJA members. They, and others involved in the unification plans, will be on the joint BJA/N.A.G. Stand (Hall 18/K61) at the Jewellery & Watch Show Birmingham (1st – 5th February, 2015) to meet with members. If you did not fill in the survey, but if you would still like to have your say, the working group would love to hear your views, so do come along during the show and tell them what you think.
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GEMSTONES
Romancing the
stone – Rubies – In this first of a new series on gems – from the ‘big four’ to some of the lesser-known, but very desirable coloured stones – Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG, a gemmology and diamond tutor at Gem-A, reveals some of the salient features of rubies.
So, what is ruby? Corundum is the name given to a family of gemstones, all with the same basic chemical make-up – aluminium and oxygen. The differences come in the elements that are present as small amounts within the stone. They don’t have to be there to make the stone a corundum, but they do give us the different names. There are two main names for corundum – those that are coloured by chromium, which gives a red colour (and which we call ruby), and those that are coloured by any of a range of other elements that cause a variety of colours, and these are termed ‘sapphire’ (unless it’s blue, the word ‘sapphire’ is usually preceded by the colour). A little useful mythology Ruby is one of the ‘big four’ gemstones, and is the birthstone for July. It’s also the stone used to celebrate the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries (so a customer might have two chances in case they forget the first!). It’s also been thought of as being a stone of love and has the ability to protect the wearer from illness. In older times, any red stone was thought of as being ruby and this led to some famous rubies not quite being what the purchaser thought they were – a prime example being the Black Prince’s Ruby, in the Imperial State Crown in the Tower of London. This is actually a large red spinel, not a ruby. How to identify a ruby Gemmologically, ruby’s properties will enable any gemmologist to identify it. It has a refractive index (basically how it returns and interacts with light) of 1.76 – 1.78 and a bright vitreous lustre. These combine to give the stone that sparkle that makes it so appealing. It’s also a very hard stone, rated at nine on the internationallyrecognised Mohs’ scale, ensuring that it will retain its finish for years to come.
42 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
Pippa Small
Star ruby © Gem-A.
If looked after carefully. Very few other commercial gemstones approach this level, so while ruby can scratch a vast range of stones, very few (notably diamond) can actually inflict damage. Ruby can also show a special optical effect, if the right type of inclusions are present. If there are parallel sets of thin fibrous or needle-like inclusions present, these can give a silky look to the stone, and if they are there in sufficient quantity, they can actually cause an effect known as ‘asterism’, whereby a reflective six-rayed star appears on the stone. This is only seen in stones cut as cabochons, as the effect tends to reduce the transparency of the stone, but they can be a beautiful look. Some rubies can also fluoresce noticeably under a longwave ultraviolet light – the type found in lights used for checking bank notes – try it, it’s a great effect to see.
Stephen Webster
Finding rubies For sourcing, the best rubies are thought to come from Burma (now Myanmar), but they are also found in Thailand, Sri Lanka, Vietnam and other places. The best coloration is referred to as ‘pigeon blood’, although (thankfully) it’s not often that this colour comparison is put to the test! The majority are routinely subjected to a form of heat treatment that enhances the red colouration, and this is a permanent, irreversible treatment that has been carried out for decades. Other, less acceptable, treatments exist, such as glass-filling, which should always be disclosed, not least because this treatment can affect the durability of the ruby. Luckily, most gemmologists would be able to spot this form of treatment. At the end of the day, though, it’s the colour and beauty that makes ruby an eternal stone.
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MEMBER BENEFITS
set up your pension scheme, and make sure you meet your initial and future employer duties. What will it cost? Act now and you will be able to take advantage of the special fees that the N.A.G. has negotiated with WPPB on your behalf. The fees, based on clients we have seen so far, are on average between £1,000 and £2,000. This compared to the average published figure of £8,900 by the industry shows what a great deal the Association has negotiated for you to help you meet your ongoing duties.
Workplace Pensions – is it all under control? The Work Place Pensions scheme is gathering momentum. We are now over two years into the new Employer Rules and only one year from the staging date for most UK jewellers. If that thought threatens to bring on a panic attack, Richard Pope of Workplace Pensions Bureau (WPPB) can help to ease the strain, explains membership development manager Robert Eden.
A
lthough a year may seem a long way off, it is important that you start to think about setting up your scheme now, as it can take many months to ensure that you have the right scheme, you have engaged with your employees as you should and the scheme is set up in time for your staging date. I have been speaking to many jewellers over the last few months and have found that many have been unaware of the time it can take to meet their obligations and the penalties if they do not meet their staging date.
44 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
The Pensions Regulator has not been shy in penalising those companies that have not set their scheme up in time. The fine for not meeting your staging date and failing to meet other obligations, can range from £50 to £50,000 and even imprisonment – depending on which of your duties you have failed to meet and the size of your company. Clearly this is something employers need to avoid, and the sooner your scheme is set up the easier it will be to meet your duties and not incur those fines.
I like the sound of this, but what is the Workplace Pension Bureau? Richard Pope explains: “We are, currently, one of the biggest workplace pension specialists in the country and we are only one of a handful of companies that have been licensed by National Employment Savings Trust (NEST), which is the government-backed pension scheme provider. We offer a service for scheme set-up and ongoing assistance that does not impact on the dayto-day running of your company. In fact, apart from giving us some of your company and employee details, you can sit back in confidence, knowing that your scheme will set up when and how it should be.”
Costs for setting up the schemes will also start to increase. During 2016 there are tens of thousands of employers that will have staging dates. This means that companies who can help you comply will have to be selective as to who they assist and employers will see the costs for this increase. It’s all about basic supply and demand.
What if the NEST scheme is not what I want? The NEST scheme is not right for everyone. If your company thinks it needs something that offers more choice for employees, or you don’t fit the NEST criteria, then WPPB works with a qualified financial adviser, Rob Wilson, who specialises in Group Personal Pensions.
What do I need to do? The first step is to talk to the team at WPPB, who will discuss your staging date and employer duties, and will help you through the maze of regulations. They will
To arrange an appointment or just to have a chat about what it is you have to do, please call Workplace Pension Bureau on: 0333 321 4640 or visit their website at: www.wppb.co.uk
Europe’s
Truly International Sourcing Fair Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe 22 - 25 March 2015 Messe Freiburg • Germany
www.JGF-Europe.com
Supporting Organisation:
UBM Asia Ltd Tel: (852) 2516 2158 | Fax: (852) 3749 7344 | Email: visitjgf-hk@ubm.com UBM EMEA Tel: (31 20) 40 99 585 | Fax: (31 20) 36 22 616 | Email: visitjgfeurope@ubm.com
BUSINESS SUPPORT: INSURANCE
Get the best insurance cover for your business Finding insurance protection that is precisely the right fit for you can be tricky. Arranging suitable cover for the particular risks faced by the jewellery industry can be a particularly exacting task – one that requires research and an understanding of available insurance products and how these may benefit those in the jewellery trade. Chartered Insurance Broker, Neil McFarlane, MD of specialist brokers TH March, shares a few tips on how to achieve the best cover for your business.
I
n today’s insurance market with providers coming at you from all angles (not least via the internet), it can be difficult to decide which offering is best suited to your specific needs. Clearly that is where the advice of a knowledgeable broker will prove to be invaluable because every business is unique and a good insurance broker will be able to home in on those elements and then recommend the most appropriate insurance products to fit your specific requirements. Most people reading this will be familiar with what happens in the lead up to an insurance renewal date: an unwelcome bombardment of seemingly cheap offers all purporting to give the best for least. Unrealistic offers are usually just that. If something seems too good to be true, it usually is! Aside from the obvious advice of looking at value rather than just price (there are quite often substantial differences in the cover on offer, including excesses and policy limits), here are a few more salient points to consider: 1. I s the broker regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (formerly the Financial Services Authority)? You can check this by visiting the FCA’s website: www.fca.org.uk Brokers who are regulated by the FCA must comply with a strict set of obligations that are designed to protect clients and if you are unhappy with the service your broker has provided, you
46 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
can complain to the FCA. These obligations include providing a clear demands and needs statement, not just a sentence, together with a full summary of policy cover, listing the terms, conditions and limitations, prior to cover being arranged. 2. Does the broker have experience of the jewellery trade? The jewellery industry is a highly specialist area for insurers so it is therefore sensible to ensure that you engage a broker who can demonstrate an appropriate level of experience. To establish this try asking the following questions: • What do you know about my industry; are you a jewellery trade specialist? • If so, how long is your experience in servicing the jewellery trade? • Which insurers do you place business with? • Aside from the FCA, are you a member of any other recognised industry body; the Chartered Insurance Institute (CII) and the British Insurance Brokers Association (BIBA) for instance? • Do you place the insurance directly with an underwriter or do you send it to another specialist intermediary? • Do you understand the particular security issues and risks relevant to the jewellery trade and are you able to advise me on these matters in relation to my business? • Can you offer advice on approved services that could assist me if/when I have to make a claim? For example
if my premises is damaged following a robbery/fire/ flood, etc. • Will you visit me at my premises in order to fully understand the needs of my business? • Who will I deal with and will I be given a dedicated account handler who will know about me and my business? Choose a broker who is willing to perform an advisory role or, at the very least, one whose approach to customer service tallies closely with your expectations. Taking time to gain a clear understanding of what a broker can offer you (in comparison to what you actually expect) is a very good way of selecting the broker that will suit you. BIBA and CII maintain online directories of brokers so it is worth visiting the relevant websites to check.
In addition, good insurance brokers will always be happy to give security advice to their clients. One recommendation we always make is that our clients should actively participate in the SaferGems scheme. This successful initiative was developed by TH March in partnership with the N.A.G. back in 2009 and we are proud of the positive impact it continues to make. It is essentially an information exchange scheme and it helps jewellers and others in associated trades keep a finger on the pulse of what is happening in terms of criminals and the latest methods being used to target the industry. Visit: www.safergems.org.uk to find out more. A broker’s Terms of Business will also provide useful information about their services.
‘Waldmann KG’ Silver Pens Presented by ‘Tregawne Giftware’ Sole Distributor in the UK.
Area Manager for West Midlands
Job purpose
•
o ensure the delivery of exceptional operational and T commercial standards throughout stores in the Area.
•
o ensure compliance in all areas of operational T activity and drive sales and profitability through the performance and development of Store Managers, whilst managing within agreed budgets.
To see a full job outline please visit www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk Please email all applications to: ishbel.lapper@thbaker.co.uk
Closing date is 20th February 2015
TH Baker was founded in 1888 as a family-owned business and has since established itself as a leading independent jeweller with a network of popular stores across the UK. In all that time, it has remained a company that prizes quality, value and service above all.
Hall 18 Stand F03 Tel: 00 44 (0)1386 861800 Email: sales@tregawne.co.uk Website: www.tregawne.co.uk
BRIDAL JEWELLERY
With this ring...
Poll positions First up, a pretty conclusive one hundred per cent of the respondees said that they would choose (or chose) diamonds for their engagement ring. All of them! “No surprise there” I can hear you cry. Well, I was taken aback – as a card-carrying devotee of coloured gemstones, I now see that I’m in more of a minority than I first imagined. The second surprise was a welcome Dinny Hall
one – all of those who took part in the survey said they would buy (or had bought) their ring from bricks and mortar retailers and jewellery designers (almost 50 per cent chose high street names). None chose an onlineonly outlet for their romantic purchase. I like this fact.
New wedding jewellery collections are waiting to be unveiled, there’s a sparkling new campaign to ensure that ethical shopping makes it onto 2015’s nuptial ‘todo’ list and we’ve thrown in our own brides’ survey – Belinda Morris reports.
I
t’s no accident that The Jeweller pulls together a feature on engagement and wedding rings for the first issue of a new year. With a large percentage of marriages taking place in summer, it’s about now that jewellers should be ready to tempt brides-to-be with the most desirable collections, armed with a winning combination of knowledge, service, empathy and Champagne.
Kirsten Goss
48 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
So what exactly are these particular customers looking for? What do they really care about? Hot on the heels of Jewellery & Watch Birmingham, three regional National Wedding Shows attract around 40,000 visitors a year and although wedding and engagement rings come some way down their list of priorities at the events (the frock, venue and flowers rank more highly) we had a hunch that they would have opinions on the subject. So we ran a survey on the National Wedding Show’s Facebook page and it threw up some interesting/ surprising results.
Interestingly, while the media and a handful of designers might talkup the return of yellow or rose gold as a new fashion favourite, the survey tells a different story. Over half of the respondees are lovers of platinum and almost 40 per cent prefer white gold. I suspect that this will also come as no big surprise to most of you. Neither will you be shocked to learn that 60 per cent of the brides-to-be had done lots of research on the criteria for choosing a diamond and the likely cost. It doesn’t necessarily mean that members of the public have become experts, but it does reinforce the assertion that
PH Wedding Rings
UJT
retailers and their staff need to be completely up-to-speed on the 4Cs (and more) to ensure that they’re a step ahead of their customers… as well as the competition. A comment from one respondee serves as a sobering reminder of how some retailers might not be stepping up to the mark: “My fiancé and I searched for a long time for the perfect ring.
Andrew Geoghegan
When we found it we knew it was the one and would have had it no matter what, which was lucky because the staff didn’t know very much about the rings they were selling and couldn’t tell us anything past the carat size, cut of the central diamond and the metal. Wedding rings were bought separately and from a working independent jeweller who we met at a wedding show.”
And a pretty impressive 60 per cent of (brave) partners proposed with a ring… which turned out to be perfect. (A smattering got the design or the size wrong.)
Erica Sharpe
While on the subject of those 4Cs, half of the prospective brides elected ‘clarity’ as the most important aspect for them when choosing a stone, followed by cut (25 per cent), carat weight and cost (10 per cent each) and finally colour. It is also interesting to note that 57 per cent of respondees bought, or were seeking, an unusual or design-led engagement ring, over a simple solitaire.
One question that we were very keen to ask related to ethics. We wondered how aware customers of wedding jewellery are of issues relating to the sourcing of gold and/or diamonds. While an encouraging 42 per cent said that they were very aware and asked
Harriet Kelsall
(or planned to ask) questions on the subject, almost 20 per cent were not aware of issues and the remainder were aware but not overly concerned. There’s clearly still some work to be done.
Cox & Power
Clear-conscience coupling Step forward then the Fairtrade Foundation, which has just launched an initiative to address this very subject. The ‘I Do’ bridal campaign for Spring 2015 aims to encourage couples ‘looking for sustainable luxury’ to exchange Fairtrade gold wedding bands on their big day. Revealed earlier this month, ‘I Do’ is showcasing collections of Fairtrade gold engagement rings and wedding bands that ‘make a powerful statement about ethics and aesthetics’.
certified under the Fairtrade standards. The premium is invested in product quality and projects that will benefit the miners’ communities. “The purity of Fairtrade gold’s provenance means that the ceremony of swapping rings with your betrothed is more meaningful. The Fairtrade gold stamp enriches each piece with its additional layer of story and meaning,” says Victoria Waugh, gold lead at the Fairtrade Foundation. “The new collections will offer innovative and creative
“ All of those who took part in the survey said they would buy (or had bought) their ring from bricks and mortar retailers and jewellery designers…” Arabel Lebrusan
Couples looking for jewellery with a conscience can visit Fairtrade’s website to check out those designer makers, brands and retailers who are creating and selling Fairtrade gold collections. The site also provides inspiration on how to choose the perfect ring, as well as flowers, wine and chocolate for their day.
Clogau
The campaign has an ambitious aim to sell 100,000 wedding rings in order to deliver $1million in Fairtrade Premium back to the artisanal and small-scale miners who extracted the gold and are
designs that contribute towards changing the world for the better, piece by piece.” Among the designers who are using Fairtrade gold and are collaborating with the ‘I Do’ campaign is Arabel Lebrusan who has recently launched her new engagement ring and wedding
Anna Loucah
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 49
BRIDAL JEWELLERY
Wedds & Co
jewellery collections – natured-inspired ‘Secret Garden’ and outer space influenced ‘Cosmos’– all pieces available in Fairtrade certified 18ct white, yellow and rose gold, as well as recycled platinum. They all feature a Canadian origin, conflict-free central diamond. Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery was one of the first 20 jewellers worldwide chosen to launch Fairtrade gold in 2011, and the
Alia Mouzannar
designer’s commitment to raising awareness of ethics within the industry (as well as among her customers) is as strong as ever. Her Fairtrade 18ct gold ‘I Do’ ring with peridot and topaz is one example of wedding jewellery that takes an ethical stance. Senior designer and company Fairtrade ‘ambassador’ Alice Rochester explains: “We offer all our customers a Fairtrade option where possible. Explaining the concept creates an emotional connection between them and the miner at source. It’s about humanity: they love to understand what difference it makes.”
Especially for the ‘I Do’ campaign designer Anna Loucah has added new models to her distinctive ‘Stellar’ collection, which will sit alongside her established ‘Sacred’ and ‘Tessalatte’ bridal collections. One of Fairtrade’s first gold licensees, Anna’s work has frequently adorned the red carpet and demonstrates her fascination with interlocking shape and companion designs. News, trends and developments In fact the trend for wedding bands that interlock with (or at least nestle comfortably up to) the engagement ring is a growing and popular trend, with a number of designers and
Rachel Galley
Domino
brands introducing or expanding on the theme. All of Gemex’s engagement rings for instance, have been designed to flush fit and come with their matching diamond set band. Designer Andrew Geoghegan, whose engagement rings can sometimes take extreme flights of fabulous fancy, are also created to snuggle up to a corresponding wedding band. A few years ago Stubbs & Co. engaged award-winning designer Shona Marsh to help develop bridal collections where the engagement ring sits flush with the wedding band and eternity ring. “The thinking was to enable retailers to use the sale
‘I Do!’ Fairtrade proposal no.1
Ian & Erika “I met Erika, who is from Sweden, in Edinburgh. I first heard about Fairtrade gold from an article I read on a flight from Sweden to Scotland. The article was about ethical jewellery, and featured CRED Jewellery. I had also watched the film Blood Diamond, so I already was aware of some of the issues. I’m generally quite interested in issues such as human rights and poverty. I support Christian Aid, while Erika supports Amnesty and buys clothes from ethical clothing retailers People Tree. “When I was thinking about the rings, it was a combination of them being ethically made as well as what Erika would like; your wedding rings are a daily reminder of the promises you make, and I wanted something that we’d both be happy to wear. “Initially I looked online and found a few different jewellery designers. We saw CRED Jewellery mentioned and I loved what they had. I visited them and their designer Annabel was extremely helpful. Going to see a jewellery designer can be fairly intimidating but they made the process very easy! I chose a Fairtrade white gold solitaire, wrap engagement ring.
50 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
“We went back to CRED to buy our Fairtrade gold wedding rings – Erika chose a ring which matches her engagement ring, and had it customised with three little diamonds. I was brought up with Fairtrade. We always drank Fairtrade coffee – in the early days, it was really horrible! What I don’t agree with is the exploitation of people, especially people who have so little anyway. I think we should really be willing to pay a fair price for products. Jewellery is a luxury for us, items that we really don’t need and we should be willing to pay what it costs.”
BRIDAL JEWELLERY
The new Hockley Mint collection builds on the success of its Wedfit collection, keeping the values of simplicity, flowing lines and being wedding ring-friendly. They include variations on best selling styles and clusters Stubbs & Co.
of the engagement ring as an opportunity to encourage their customers to return for the purchase of the rest of the suite,” explains MD Eran Shem-Tov. “It’s been a great year. In the second half of 2014 we sold 17 per cent more bridal rings than the corresponding period the previous year.”
“The ‘I Do’ campaign has an ambitious aim to sell 100,000 wedding rings in order to deliver $1million in Fairtrade Premium back to the artisanal and smallscale miners”
with new stone arrangements, including two styles which have been shortlisted for the Bridal Design of the Year Award by The Houlden Group and Jewellery & Watch Birmingham (JWB). This time last year saw the soft launch of Clogau’s ‘Compose’ venture and following an encouraging initial few months the brand will be officially unveiling the new wedding and engagement ring concept at JWB. “Clogau Compose offers an invaluable sales tool, enabling a unique way of creating the perfect bespoke ring,” says Joanne Wilson of Cope Jewellers. The brand is also revealing
‘I Do!’ Fairtrade proposal no.2
Amy & Robert “Robert and I met at work. I am half Turkish and he is originally from Brazil. I had already seen a picture of an engagement ring I liked. Vivien [from Fifi Bijoux], the jewellery designer, had lent a ring to Robert to propose with, and then she worked on designing the real thing with him. “I am quite a feminist and I also have strong opinions about people being treated fairly. I didn’t know much about Fairtrade until we started thinking about the ring, and how we could make it ethical. It’s only when you start looking for Fairtrade gold and gemstones that you realise they are available. Once I started talking to my friends [about this] I was surprised to find out that I was the only one planning to have Fairtrade rings. “The final engagement ring looked amazing. It was made from 18ct Fairtrade white gold with a 18ct Fairtrade yellow gold stone mount. The main stone was beryl, from Brazil. I have two daughters from a previous relationship and on each side of the ring there were triangular diamonds from Botswana to symbolise them. The ring was also set with little round diamonds from Australia.
Continental
three new diamond ring designs alongside wedding bands that have been formed to sit perfectly with the engagement rings. While Continental Jewellery is renowned for its high-end diamond and branded pieces, last year the company introduced a core range which included eternity rings in 9ct and 18ct. Thanks to strong performance reported by retailers, general manager Peter Mooney is expanding the core range taking bestselling products and offering them in 9ct and 18ct
“Robert had arranged for the wedding band to match my engagement ring exactly. It is also made with 18ct yellow Fairtrade gold and the band is also set with little round diamonds. The rings did cost a lot, but we both feel very privileged to be able to contribute fairly to the people that made them, and also support a cause that is true to our beliefs and values.” Gemex
52 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
Wedfit by Hockley Mint
white, yellow and rose gold and introducing a new three- and five-stone ring programme. “Our customers want the flexibility that we can offer providing precious stones in all metals,” he explains. It’s not all about engagement rings of course and this season Domino is introducing its new wedding band collection with a focus on bi-colour bands combining white, rose and yellow alloys. Textures are also important in this collection and the range of ‘Finishing Touches’ allows consumers to pick an extensive variety of personal touches, including different patterns and shiny or matt finishes for their rings. “Most brides and bridegrooms still opt for classical wedding band styles, but Domino also likes to offer a modern twist and this year’s trends,” explains Domino’s marketing manager, Sally Warrillow. “This includes textures, vintage styles, and a huge variety of diamond-set options – with both single stone and multiple stone choices for both men and women.” Which should be music to the ears of those retailers hoping to tempt our survey respondees searching for that certain je ne sais quoi…
AT THE BENCH
Understanding
rapid
This, the first in a series looking at various trades and processes employed in the manufacture of jewellery, looks at 3D printing – with help from Ed Hole, head of CAD design and 3D printing at Weston Beamor.
prototyping What is rapid prototyping? Rapid prototyping, which is also referred to as additive manufacturing, and today more commonly as 3D printing, is the process of creating a three-dimensional object, such as a ring shank, an earring component or perhaps a bracelet charm, in wax, resin or other materials, from a ‘virtual’ model of the object which has been created in Computer Aided Design (CAD) software. To turn a CAD design into reality, the 3D printer takes the computer model and metaphorically slices it into many thin layers. It then instructs the printer to create or ‘print’ the object, by either depositing wax or by solidifying liquid resin layer by layer, until the physical object has been built. Depending upon the size of what is being created and the type of 3D printer used, this process takes anywhere between a few minutes to several hours. The resulting object is an exact 3D physical of the virtual CAD jewellery item. What traditional task does it replace? Traditionally, model-making new patterns for jewellery was all done by hand. The designs were usually made into silver patterns, which were then moulded, hand-carved in wax and then cast, or made directly into the final precious metal. If they weren’t correct the whole piece had to be started again. CAD software and 3D printing brings this task into the 21st century, giving the model maker greater control over accuracy and complexity, while speeding up the process. Although many 3D CAD files will be created from the starting point of a 2D drawing, thanks to the introduction of 3D scanning it is now also possible to take an actual physical object – such as an acorn, a piece of fruit, or whatever you wish – and 3D scan it to create a CAD model. The object can then be manipulated (e.g. resized) in the CAD software and then 3D printed A partially rendered virtual CAD and cast into the metal of choice. design showing how CAD can be used Many charms used in jewellery to create a photo-realistic image. today are created in this way. Alongside this advancement in technology it is important to understand that skilled goldsmiths and stone setters are still vital in the process of jewellery making. CAD and 3D printing will, at best, get you to a raw cast metal stage; it’s then over to the traditional hand skills of craftsmen to finish the piece.
54 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
A technician at WB removing a completed tray of prototypes from one of their RP machines.
What are the benefits? The process has many benefits both for jewellery designers and manufacturers, and for jewellery retailers. • It’s quick. Designers can bring new designs to the market faster • It’s flexible. Once the prototype has been printed and viewed it’s easy to alter the CAD file to amend the design. • It gives designers more freedom to build highly complex and detailed forms which would have been difficult to achieve using traditional methods • It allows designers and retailers to easily offer bespoke pieces. CAD designers can create photo realistic images of the design and also 3D print models for clients to try on before any commitment is made to producing them in precious metals • It allows accurate costing. The exact weight of the metal to be used can be calculated prior to production, so if necessary the design can be adapted to meet a particular price point • Precision. Stone setting is made easy and secure. The prototype can be used to ensure that a particular stone a retailer may wish to use will sit snugly in the fitting provided for it • Shaped wedding bands. Where a customer has an awkwardly shaped engagement ring, a prototype wedding ring can be created by 3D scanning the engagement ring and creating a prototype to fit its profile exactly How does it work? There are a number of 3D printers on the market with prices ranging from hundreds of pounds up to £250k. Jewellery models require a very high resolution and surface finish, which is in the remit of the higher end machines. Different systems are also recommended for different types of designs so unfortunately there is no one machine that fits all. Weston Beamor owns some of the most sophisticated available and has been 3D printing since 2001 (yes, 14 years). We found that no matter which 3D printer you have, the success (or failure) of a piece relies heavily on the quality of the CAD model and the person running the printer. How long does it take to train to do it? This technology by no means de-skills the job of model making. While the basics of CAD design can be picked up fairly quickly by a computer literate user, mastering the software can take many years, the same as any skill in the jewellery making process. Bad CAD models make clunky pieces of jewellery. Good CAD models can be indistinguishable from any handmade piece. Despite popular media stories about 3D printing suggesting we will all soon be printing household objects at our kitchen tables, this is still a relatively complex science done most effectively in the hands of experts.
FEATURE
Under the spotlight
• carry out human rights due diligence process, at a scale relevant to the business (CoP 6.1b) • have a remediation process, where this identifies human rights impacts (CoP 6.1c)
Ashish Deo Towards the end of last year, Ashish Deo was appointed CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Following a frenetic few months of trips and meetings, Deo – who was previously the commercial director of The Fairtrade Foundation – found time to answer a few questions on his vision of the Council’s future. What are your plans to encourage RJC members to take up chain of custody (CoC) certification? The RJC’s CoC Standard aims to support businesses which seek to implement responsible sourcing programmes. It requires companies to establish CoC systems for managing any precious metals they are sourcing and/or supplying. For gold supply chains here is increasing focus on the importance of carrying out due diligence, and for some companies this is a legislative requirement. The advantage of CoC certification is that an independently verified CoC for gold is established from the relevant starting points in the supply chain (e.g. mining and refining), providing assurance for responsible practices.
social responsibility practices, sustainability and development in the supply chain. We are doing that by establishing a working group that will tackle how both initiatives can be mutually supportive of each other. To that end, the organisations will mutually provide concrete support for each other’s goals and objectives, creating synergies to further these objectives. These include informing their respective memberships of their programmes, and ensuring efficiency in fostering the objectives of each organisation.
While the RJC Code of Practices is mandatory for all commercial RJC members, the CoC standard is voluntary. RJC has been working closely with gold refiners on implementing the CoC standard, and so far there are 13 CoC certified refiners across eight countries with more expected soon. The RJC team has also been supporting several major brands in their future adoption of CoC and we hope to see some exciting progress on this during 2015.
Do you think that the ‘conflict minerals’ issue has been prioritised by the industry to the detriment of other prevailing issues – such as poverty, child labour, free prior and informed consent etc? The jewellery industry has always prided itself on its professionalism and creativity. Issues like conflict diamonds and gold have brought the matter of responsible business practices to the forefront for legislators, companies and consumers.
How do you plan to work more closely with CIBJO? The RJC is planning to work closely with CIBJO to grow consumer confidence in the jewellery industry by improving corporate
56 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
to poverty, child labour, and forced labour, and created an international framework and expectation for due diligence in supply chains. RJC has been active in promoting the importance of addressing all relevant supply chain risks, and that responsible sourcing is not only about addressing conflict issues. A broad framework for these issues is human rights. Human rights have a new focus in the 2013 Code of Practices, which incorporates the business
“ The conflict minerals issue is of significant importance for the jewellery industry, but international work in this area has also focused on its relationship to poverty, child labour, and forced labour…”
The conflict minerals issue is of significant importance for the jewellery industry, but international work in this area has also focused on its relationship
responsibility to respect the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights. The 2013 COP requires members to: • have a written policy on human rights (CoP 6.1a)
The RJC has designed a Human Rights Due Diligence toolkit to fulfil the requirements of the Code of Practices for a human rights due diligence process and has also formed a ‘Human Rights Exchange’ working group, which offers RJC members a formal structure through which to better understand, address and mitigate human rights risks in the jewellery supply chain. An open webinar was held on 25th November 2014 on ‘Executing Human Rights Due Diligence’ in jewellery business relationships – down and upstream (for more details visit: www.responsiblejewellery.com/ events/). Will RJC be introducing a consumer certification label linked to its standard in the near future? RJC does not communicate directly to consumers but individual brands are free to include references to RJC in their public / consumer communications. RJC has not been set up as a consumer-facing label or brand. RJC members recognise that jewellery consumers deserve a credible assurance that the products they buy exemplify the emotions of love,
commitment and affection that many jewellery purchases represent. RJC believes that implementation of its standards enables its members to themselves communicate about their practices and commitments to their customers.
them. In addition to that, we have regular topic webinars, selfassessment tools and guidance for members to consult on our website, as well as a very approachable Help Desk that can answer any questions businesses may have.
How do you respond to the accusation (by some in the industry) that RJC is a ‘soft trading cartel’, given that many members will only deal with RJC members? RJC has had a strong Anti-Trust Policy and Rules since its inception. There is absolutely no requirement from RJC that its members only deal with each other.
SMEs form a significant part of RJC’s membership, representing around 60 per cent of all members. There are many small businesses that have successfully achieved RJC certification and, while there is some effort involved, they report that the resulting improvements to their businesses have been well worthwhile.
Since the beginning RJC’s aim has been to develop standards and a certification programme that would promote responsible practices in the industry. These tools are available for implementation as part of a responsible sourcing programme, and some companies have adopted RJC as a common platform with which to engage their suppliers and customers on these issues. One benefit is a harmonised approach, helping to avoid the increasing proliferation of supply chain audits and expectations from multiple clients. What are you doing/can you do to make certification easier for small businesses to achieve? (For many the paperwork alone can make it off-putting.) RJC has developed a series of online training aimed to help members with the certification process. This is available to all members on the RJC website at: www.responsiblejewellery. com/rjc-certification/codeof-practices-certification13/ training/ Moreover, we have monthly training sessions with new members where they talk about the challenges of certification and aspects that are unclear to
Why has Fairmined but not Fairtrade been approved as a responsible mine source? In September 2014, the RJC formally recognised the Fairmined Standard v.2.0 as a ‘Recognised Responsible Mining Standard’ under the RJC Chain-of-Custody Standard. The formal recognition of this artisanal small mining standard aims to further the work of the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) with certified artisanal and small-scale producers, particularly in conflict areas. Fairtrade is currently reviewing its standard and RJC will review an update on the prior recognition of the standard after the conclusion of its standards revision process. The prior recognition of the standard still stands until Fairtrade’s current standards revision is complete. The recognition of the common standard has not been revoked and there are no ‘stand-alone’ Fairtrade certified mines that are outside the RJC’s prior recognition.
optional Provenance Claims provision that would cover any members that make a claim related to diamonds, synthetics, gold and/or platinum group metals that are offered for sale as stand-alone or set in jewellery. The claim can be related to the geographical origin of material, the type of source (recycled, mined, artisanally mined, etc.), date of production or specific practices (e.g. synthetics testing – see next question) applied in the supply chain that are relevant to the Code of Practices. Does RJC have any plans to expand grading and disclosure within the standards? In the 2013 Code of Practices a new provision concerning grading and valuations (Provision 28) was introduced as a result of feedback from external consultations on the RJC Code of Practices Standard, as well as continuing to integrate product disclosure requirements (Provision 26). The grading and valuation provision is applicable to RJC members that generate
independent diamond grading reports or valuation reports for end consumers or use valuation reports as part of the selling process for end consumers. Among the addressed issues in this provision are: synthetics/ treatment disclosure, statement for the consumer for valuation reports and disclosure of relevant vested interests in the sale of the jewellery product of a grader/ valuer to consumers. RJC has developed an online training tool for this provision which is also available in the training section of our website. With regards to synthetics, members that take proactive steps to ensure that there are no synthetics in the diamonds they sell, and make claims of this nature (such as a claim of ‘synthetic free’) are able to have those claims audited through the new Provenance Claim Provision (12). More details are available on our dedicated Provenance Claim page, including a soon-to-be-published training module update.
How will recycled consumer diamonds and synthetics be treated in the CoC system? The Chain-of-Custody Standard is only applicable to gold and platinum group metals, not diamonds. However, in the new 2013 Code of Practice, RJC has introduced an
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 57
BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
SaferGems – 2014 review –
As we hope for a prosperous and less perilous 2015, Lee Henderson of SaferGems look back over the past twelve months to offer a summary of crime against the jewellery industry. Forewarned…
T
he bad – but not surprising – news for the start of the new year is that the jewellery and pawnbroking industries remain valuable commodities for criminals. Data confirm that approximately £19 million worth of goods were stolen from such businesses during 2014. It will also come as little surprise to learn that watches are still the most sought-after items – approximately £10 million were stolen over that period. It is believed that high end Swiss watch brands such as Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Patek Philippe and the like, are being used by low level criminals as status symbols. But in addition to this, those particular brands are also being shipped out of the country to Russia and the Middle East (where there is a big demand) by criminals originating from Serbia, Montenegro and Romania, who travel to the UK specifically to commit robbery offences. An initiative established by N.A.G. in collaboration with TH March, SaferGems works to prevent such crimes and during 2014 it: • recorded over 620 crimes and suspicious incidents reported by both the jewellery industry and the police • circulated 200 alerts to the industry • provided 235 analytical reports to the police • assisted police with over 20 arrests and convictions • identified over 25 criminals. • linked 190 suspicious incidents/crimes • prevented over 100 crimes Fraud, in particular PDQ fraud, continued to be a serious threat to the SaferGems members, therefore it was vital that we progressed and enhanced our liaisons with credit card fraud investigation teams and financial fraud bureaus. This progression and successful liaison resulted in productive meetings with Barclaycard and the Financial Fraud Bureau.
58 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
As a result of these meetings, the Metropolitan Police Fraud Taskforce Unit took on a joint referral from SaferGems in relation to forced authorisation frauds that were affecting the jewellery industry. A meeting with the National Crime Agency at its Warrington offices in May resulted in a dedicated central point of contact for SaferGems and our regular attendance at Association of Chief Police Officers Commercial Robbery Strategic Groups continued. Following our relationship and successful information sharing with the Jewellery Security Alliance in the USA, we were also able to share information and intelligence with a contact within the FBI. The special agent concerned is one of a number of the Bureau’s experts in gem and jewellery crime in America. Also last year, following discussions with our sponsors, SaferGems agreed to host a watch register, which would be an arm of the security initiative. In brief, this register includes details of all high-end watches – whether new, second hand or stolen. The register contains the make, model and serial number, as well as retailer and crime recording details. The success of the register is enhanced by the cooperation and support of the industry and all police forces who have supplied SaferGems with the required information. It is now fully operational and is free to the industry for the first six months and free to police as a search facility for stolen, identifiable watches. While anything might happen just as we go to press, the latest success story from the SaferGems office involves the Greater Manchester Police who, on 20th December 2014, arrested four men from France, Italy and Croatia following information from SaferGems. The officers seized £2m worth of counterfeit Euros, £50,000 of legitimate Euros and £100,000 of high value watches. The suspects had hired a conference room at the hotel in an attempt to lure a high-end Manchester jewellers into a large scale fraud which involved purchasing jewellery with a mixture of real and counterfeit cash. The jeweller in question was saved from the loss of €2 million worth of jewellery. Great to end on some very good news! For more information about SaferGems and to sign up for alerts please visit: www.safergems.org.uk
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Brand Profile
ZEPPELIN
Last summer saw the UK launch of one German watch brand inspired by aviation history, and this spring sees another as the Zeppelin brand is introduced.
The first line that was introduced took as its inspiration the technical design of those early airships and over the 10 years since, 11 new collections have been launched, all watches made in Germany. The various lines either mark chapters in the history of Zeppelin (such as ‘Nordstern’ with its ice-white and night-blue dials, which celebrates the journey of the LZ 127 Graf Zeppelin to the North Pole in 1931) or simply echo the classic aesthetics of airships’ glory days. Zeppelin’s centenary was celebrated with the ‘100 Years Zeppelin’ collection with features such as domed dials and domed crystals with modern accents. And since the launch, new models have been added including a quartz chronograph, an ETA automatic with big date and in steel or rose gold casing. Many of the men’s watches in the Zeppelin line-up feature the famous Zeppelin airship shape on the edge of the casing.
I
f you’re planning to check out the various watch names at the forthcoming Jewellery & Watch Birmingham exhibition – perhaps in the hope of finding something a little different – it might be worth heading for stand J40 in Hall 18. Having successfully launched Junkers timepieces into the UK and Ireland last year, Hans Brandt of Pointtec UK has chosen the NEC event to showcase the German company’s sister brand, Zeppelin. Neither brand could be categorised as ‘fashion’ or ‘global mainstream’… ‘different’ suits them perfectly. Like Junkers, Zeppelin is a name that is redolent of Boy’s Own stuff-of-adventure romance; a name that conjures up the glamour
60 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
and excitement of between-thewars travel, with, of course, just a whiff of danger. And having seen the success that Willi Birk of Pointtec Germany made of the Junkers watch brand – which was launched around 21 years ago – the Zeppelin Group commissioned the company in 2004 to create a timepiece collection inspired by the iconic airships. While Junkers, with its sporty, borrowed-from-the-cockpit, aviator style typically attracts a younger demographic (20 to 50 years old), Zeppelin watches appeal to an older customer who appreciates a more classic 1920s/30s model. Both fall into the mid-price category – £199 to £500 retail.
The latest models in the company’s design evolution are ‘Night Cruise’ and ‘New Flatline’. The former, based on timeless classic designs, features dark dials with strong luminous markers and digits, for the best possible night visibility. The seven-strong line-up includes a mechanical movement watch
with crystal exhibition back and turnable stainless steel bezel, a Swiss-made quartz chronograph and a mechanical watch with weekday indicator and power reserve indicator. The ‘Flatline’ collection, as its name suggests, offers an ultraslim case construction – allowing the watch the slide easily under a shirt cuff. The original range of six watches has now been joined by a new series of watches, still with the elegant casing that nestles against the wrist, but now with additional details. For instance, there’s a power reserve indicator, set at an unusual angle; another model has an ‘open heart’ to allow a glimpse into the mechanical movement. All the models have leather straps and polished, powdered or goldcoated stainless steel cases.
A brief history of Zeppelin Ferdinand Graf von Zeppelin, the German pioneer of aeronautics, constructed the first ever dirigible aero rigid airship Zeppelin ‘LZ 1’ in 1900 and between then and 1938 his company built around 100 airships – in 27 different versions. ‘The Crazy Count from Lake Constance’ constructed workshops that developed and produced engines and gear transmission machinery and the ‘Graf Zeppelin’ and ‘Hindenburg’ airships carried fare-paying passengers and cargo across the Atlantic to North and South America from 1910. The Art Deco spire of the Empire State Building was originally designed to serve as a mooring mast for Zeppelins and other airships. The Zeppelin Group today is involved in various aspects of the construction industry, is present in 190 countries and employs close to 7,700 people.
Join our dynamic network of retail jewellers for your slice of the benefits
Become part of a progressive group that exists to benefit you, the independent retail jeweller. The CMJ is much more than a buying group offering preferential terms. It is a network of retail members across the UK and Ireland, who together with the CMJ’s executive team, approved suppliers and professional experts can provide support, advice and friendship. Call Lucy, our membership services manager, on 01788 540250 or visit us at Jewellery & Watch, Birmingham, stand 17N04 to find out how we can help you.
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Where to go, what to see and… Trade Fairs February 1st – 3rd: Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair The sixth edition of this ‘by-invitation’ event. www.antwerpdiamondtrade fair.com 1st – 5th: Jewellery & Watch Birmingham, NEC, Birmingham One of the UK’s premier trade events for the industry – covering fine jewellery, designer makers, international brands and a section devoted to timepieces. For a full preview of the event see p20. www. jewelleryandwatch birmingham.com
15th – 16th: Company of Master Jewellers Spring Trade Event, Hilton Metropole Hotel, Birmingham An opportunity for CMJ members to source watches, jewellery and services from a selection of invited suppliers. masterjewellers.co.uk 20th – 23rd: Inhorgenta Munich, Germany Annual trade fair for jewellery and watches, spanning seven halls including platforms for contemporary designers, gemstones, luxury jewellery, timepieces and lifestyle brands. www.inhorgenta.com
JWB – Charlotte Lowes
3rd – 8th: AGTA GemFair, Tucson Convention Center, Arizona, USA The American Gem Trade Association’s exhibition showcasing coloured gemstones and pearls, plus seminars and workshops. www.agta.org 8th – 10th: Pure London, London Olympia The trade fashion buying event organised by i2i Events includes a new jewellery area, ‘Pure Rocks’. This is dedicated to sterling silver and gold-plated semi-precious jewellery, with names such as JuditB, My Flash Trash and Kirstin Ash. www.purelondon.com 8th – 12th: International Diamond Week, IDE, Israel The second edition of the world’s largest diamond exchange, organised by the Israeli Diamond Exchange in close cooperation with the Diamond Dealers Club of New York and the Antwerp Diamond Bourse. www.israelidiamond.co.il
62 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
March 19th – 26th: BaselWorld, Basel, Switzerland Arguably the most important event of the year for watch buyers, but also showcasing new jewellery collections and loose gems. See next month’s issue for a preview of the show. http://www.baselworld.com
Sales & Exhibitions January Current to 19th April: Express Yourself, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh Celebrates contemporary jewellery and its power to help define those who collect, commission and create it. With creations by leading jewellers David Watkins and
Wendy Ramshaw with jewellery commissioned by designer Jean Muir and an eclectic selection of pieces once owned by Terry Brodie-Smith, a prolific collector. www.nms.ac.uk February 5th – 7th: Cockpit Arts Open Studios, Creekside, Deptford, London SE8 Showing designer makers such as Jo Hayes Ward, Maud Traon and Sara Gunn. www.cockpitarts.com 12th – 15th: Tucson Gem & Mineral Show, Tucson Convention Center, Arizona Bringing together hobbyists, curators, professionals and the public for exhibitions, discussions, workshops and trading. www.tgms.org March 3rd – 6th: Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 An exhibition of the best entries from the 2015 Awards, showcasing the skilled art and
working techniques of today’s leading jewellers and silversmiths. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk April 25th – 26th July: The Enchanting Jewels of Elizabeth Gage, New Britain Museum of American Art, New Britain, Connecticut, USA Celebrating 50 years of the work of British jewellery designer Elizabeth Gage and showcasing around 250 pieces of fine jewellery, each piece handpicked by the designer herself. Starting from the gemstone, artifact or fossil, Gage’s work is inspired by a range of influences, from architecture to animals. www.nbmaa.org
Elizabeth Gage ‘Eagle’ pin
N.A.G. events and courses March 11th: Essential Display, London Learn how to present stock to its best advantage on this one-day course presented by visual merchandising expert Judy Head. 25th/26th: Diamonds and Diamond Grading, London Eric Emms presents a two-day course to give retailers and staff the knowledge and confidence to sell more diamond jewellery. Includes identifying simulants. April 23rd: Developing Selling Skills, Birmingham A one-day course given by training provider Virada, aimed to hone the skills of experienced staff and reinforce confidence of new members. Aspects covered include: managing customer interaction, helping with decision-making and acting on buying signals.
Goldsmiths – Kevin Grey, a gold winner at the 2014 awards
For further details and to register your interest in any course, contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org
what to read! Hiring Squirrels by Peter Smith (£12.99, Giles, available from Amazon) As a retailer one of the hardest tasks is to recruit, train and build a great team. Team members must get on, mix well, multitask and, of course, be able to sell. Whenever staff leave, the team goes through great upheaval and it takes an age to find, recruit, train and assimilate any new hires. When asked to read Hiring Squirrels I was excited, as any help in this minefield is greatly appreciated. Smith is a jewellery professional – 35 years in the business – working in America and his book promises insights into how to find, interview and recruit top sales people. His premise is that great salespeople have inherent hard wiring in their brain that drives them to succeed at sales; their brains work in a different way that makes them driven to succeed. He claims that if you can find any candidate with enough drive, empathy and resilience, that person – with or without experience in sales – will succeed. Smith’s suggestion is that if you can find people with the right ‘wiring’, regardless of their actual jewellery or sales experience, they will be better suited in the long term and perform better than those without the necessary brain to make it work. You have to accept that ‘fact’ and despite reading the whole book I’m still not sure I do, however there are some very good and valid points and useful hints and tips that make it a worthwhile read. The book claims that without the natural ‘hard wired’ attributes associated with outstanding sales performers, the essential skills of great sales people CANNOT be taught. Which explains the title. Why, Smith asks, would you train a thoroughbred horse to climb a tree when you could hire a squirrel to do the same job better and more naturally? He lists four types of sales team members, Hunters, Farmers, Hybrids and Wrong-Business, and says that his research shows a staggering 58 per cent of retail jewellery professionals are in the ‘wrong-business’ category of jewellery sales when compared to the sales-driven ‘hunter’ category. A good team balance is two ‘farmers’ to every ‘hunter’. It also importantly covers where to find people and has even encouraged me to put a permanent ‘Careers’ tab on my website. The interview is supposed to be carried out in a manner that explores and uncovers culture, CV and wiring, and does so by listing a dozen specific questions for candidates with or without sales experience. Smith does give the reader some hints and tips on finding new talent, the key questions to ask during an interview and what responses to look for to gauge the candidates you are talking to. I’m not going to spoil the surprise of the questions here, but there is a good, specific and insightful selection of questions for candidates that I will be using in future interviews. I got to the end of the book not 100 per cent convinced but with a lot of practical advice that I will be using in future. It’s a read I would recommend for retail employers. Simon Johnson, Marmalade
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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 63
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Having the
LAST WORD As we focus on matters bridal this month, it seems apt to cross-question Fei Liu, one of the UK’s foremost wedding jewellery designers. Personal profile Birmingham-based designer Fei Liu was born in Chong Qin, China, and trained at the world-renowned Birmingham School of Jewellery. Since completing his studies, he has worked for nationwide jewellery suppliers and, with the launch of his own brand Fei Liu Fine Jewellery in 2006, has secured extensive international acclaim. With his work, Liu seeks to create a true expression of femininity, individuality and glamour. Inspired by floral and architectural forms, his work is a fusion of Eastern heritage with Western design, and his signature style combines delicate elegance with a bold, often sculptural feel. Recently announced as a finalist of the Designer of the Year 2014 at the BJA Awards, he also received the Bridal Collection of the Year 2014 at the UK Watch & Jewellery Awards, and won the Houlden Bridal Design of the Year 2014. Other awards that Liu has been given include Harper’s Bazaar China Jewellery Designer of the Year and the Lonmin Design Innovation Award. Who has been the biggest influence on your life? I would have to say Buddha – I am a practising Buddhist and Buddhism has definitely had a huge influence on the way I live my life and my way of thinking. I regularly go to Vipassana, which is a meditation retreat, where I focus and meditate. If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? It would have to be the Georgian era; from what I’ve read, it just sounds like the most romantic era. What three words describe you best… in your view AND according to others? Kind, ambitious, determined. I’m not sure how others see me… hopefully the same! Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I would cherish all my team members, and try to understand the difference between management and leadership.
66 THE JEWELLER JAN/FEB 2015
I think I have made mistakes in the past; people come and go, obviously, but I’ve learnt to care more about their personal development, rather than just treating them as family! If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? I would try to change the mentality. Jewellery to me should be daring and glamorous and I’d love for the rest of the industry to have a similar view. What has been the highest point of your career so far? I am very happy to have established my new team within such a difficult economic time. Sometimes it can be a problem when old team members go and the new team is much smaller, so may not be as fast. But we have reached the same understanding and we’re working together even better than before. Business isn’t easy in a
recession especially for small businesses, and I’m really proud of our growth during this difficult time. If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been? I’d have to say an explorer as I love travelling and observing different cultures. What was the last film you saw at the cinema? Hunger Games Mockingjay Part 1 (but watched on plane thanks to Emirates!). It was cool and wellmade, but not really my cup of tea. I am more a Lord of the Rings kind of guy!
What’s your guiltiest pleasure? Mariah Carey, undoubtedly. Although I’m not really that guilty about it! Tell us something not many people know about you… I’m surprisingly a very good cook. Where is your favourite shopping destination (street/city/country…) TK Maxx! I love a bargain and I love shopping in their Gold Label department What keeps you awake at night? Finding design inspiration; it’s hard to turn your brain off especially when running a company that works in two different time zones! Quick fire • Sun and sea or snow and slopes? Sun and sea • Two wheels or four wheels? Two (I love bikes and can’t drive) • Jewellery on men? Yes or No? Yes, brooches and cufflinks • Delegator or control freak? Both • Cosy night in or wild night out? Cosy night in • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones
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