Jeweller(Jul15) by Zest Europe

JULY 2015

T H E

V O I C E

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I N D U S T R Y

NOW WE REALLY WILL BE Stronger!

A special issue to celebrate the unification of our two associations

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CONTENTS & CONTACTS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Sterling result for unification Editor’s Letter

Sterling result for unification

What the trade is saying

Talking to the top table

Meet the Team

Association News

IRV

Education & Training

Talking shops

Membership Benefits

Industry News

Opinion

Charities

The Bigger Picture

Jeweller Picks

Where to Go, What to See…

The Classifieds

Last Word

Gems&Jewellery THE JEWELLER IN CONJUNCTION WITH

Including a review of JCK 2015 and the Gem-A field trip to Idar-Oberstein; a study of the ‘golden rutilated quartz’ hidden deep in the Bahia region of Brazil, as well as an analysis of a special synthetic diamond auctioned at Tucson and much more.

The chairmen of the BJA and N.A.G. outline the vision and plans for the future of the new association.

What the trade is saying Industry figures offer their views and congratulations on the unification.

Membership Benefits

The services, schemes, systems and products that are currently available to BJA and N.A.G. members.

Jeweller Picks A selection of products and services – illustrating the breadth of industry supply offered by association members.

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com Sales Director: Ian Francis The National Association Tel: 020 7749 1705 of Goldsmiths Fax: 020 7729 0143 78a Luke Street, ian.francis@jewellers-online.org London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 Publishing Enquiries/ www.jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford CEO: Michael Rawlinson neil.oakford@jewellers-online.org michael.rawlinson@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Editor: Belinda Morris Mary Brittain, John Henn, bmorris@colony.co.uk Frank Wood Art Director: Ben Page ben.page@jewellers-online.org The N.A.G. is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The N.A.G. accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3

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COMMENT

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Editor’s Letter Welcome to this special, celebratory copy of The Jeweller! It’s taken some time to reach this point, but finally we can say that the waiting is over… members of the National Association of Goldmiths and the British Jewellers’ Association have agreed to unification. The

This issue: “We want to work with the wider jewellery trade… to build on our long, successful history to provide a future in which all types of businesses can survive and thrive…” Page 6

moment that we say ‘hello’ to 2016 the formalities will have been completed and the National Association of Jewellers will be a living, breathing entity. We have devoted the best part of the magazine to sharing with you as much as possible at this stage about the new Association – its objectives and vision for the future. We’ve spoken to the great and the good across the industry, canvassing them for their views on the marriage p13 and I’m pleased to report that the support received has been as overwhelmingas it has been heartening. And for a sense of the new NAJ we’ve looked at the two current bodies, at their various departments, officers and all-encompassing memberships. On page 36 you’ll find a run-down of the myriad benefits that members of the two associations enjoy, benefits that will be applied across the combined membership of the NAJ come next January. And for those who would like to know a little more about their soon-to-be fellow members, there’s a breakdown of consumer-facing businesses (from nationwide multiples to niche boutiques) on p33. Then there’s a special Jeweller Picks p58, which highlights a cross-section of product and service suppliers selected from our comprehensive and gloriously diverse membership. Need gems? We’ve got them. Need chains? No problem? Bullion… engagement rings… lighting… silver spoons… friendship bracelets… watch repairers… diamonds… rapid prototyping… gem-set earrings? We’ve got them all! Yes, the magazine looks a little different this month, but underneath we’re still the same: news from the Association and the wider industry, the latest from the EDF, dates for your diary, the first of John Henn’s reports on CIBJO and finally… The Last Word, because someone has to have it.

… members continue to offer all aspects of jewellery manufacture from rapid prototyping, casting and stamping through to mounting, setting and finishing Page 58

I get to have the first one. Have a great and profitable summer!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at bmorris@colony.co.uk

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5

UNIFICATION ISSUE

‘ Sterling’ result for Unification the work starts here to make it happen, say chairmen The waiting is over! Just over 92.5 per cent of members of the National Association of Goldsmiths and an even higher proportion of the British Jewellers’ Association have voted for the two associations to come together to form the National Association of Jewellers – what a sterling result! The sense of future hope both at the N.A.G.’s AGM and BJA’s EGM (held in the glorious Goldsmiths’ Hall on 16th June) and the following night from speakers and guests at the UK Jewellery Awards was palpable. The goodwill that we have received from the wider industry is as heartening as it is welcome.

or so long a dream of many, the realisation that this unification is finally going to happen will take some time to truly sink in. But we are well aware that we have completed only the first part of the job. Together with our fellow officers, the onus is on us to make this dream and hope a reality. We will be working with the respective teams of the BJA, N.A.G. and the British Allied Trades Federation (BATF) to bring everything together, hopefully by the autumn, but by the end of this year at the latest. We have already fired the starting gun on a number of projects so that the new organisation will be ready to serve you, our fellow members and these include: • The process to appoint the CEO • IT, telecoms and software integration (so that both offices can talk together and files, programmes and member records can be merged)

• The transfer of employment contracts of N.A.G. staff to the BATF • Undertaking the legal process to transfer the N.A.G. into the BATF to create the NAJ and then BJA into the NAJ • Confirmation of the approval of the transfer of N.A.G.’s grant of a Coat of Arms to the NAJ

To respond to any of the issues regarding the above or the unification in general please email us at: unification@jewellers-online.org or unification@bja.org.uk

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How will the new organisation be led? We, the existing chairmen of the BJA and N.A.G. will be the inaugural joint chairmen of the NAJ. Along with the existing vice chairmen and immediate past chairmen of both bodies we will form the new National Committee. The chairman of the Institute of Registered Valuers will be co-opted to strengthen and make the National Committee more representative of the membership. It is likely that this will also apply to the chairmen of any commissioned sub-committees in future. At the first AGM, which will be convened in the summer of 2016, elections will take place for positions on the National Committee so that members have the opportunity to nominate either themselves or others. In order to facilitate this process, during the winter months the initial National Committee will reach out to members to encourage those with specific skills or expertise who want to be more involved, inviting them to sit on one of the new special interest groups or specialist committees. The format of the new groups is still to be determined, so if you have an idea, please do put your suggestions forward – we welcome and value your opinions!

Potential sub committees or special interest groups: • Education, training and mentoring • Sub-sector interest groups along the

same lines as the IRV - designer makers, retail, manufacturing....

• • • • • •

Technical standards Policy and public affairs, including ethics Consumer marketing Standards and membership Business development Export support

UNIFICATION ISSUE

The NAJ is being formed from two long-established and highlyregarded trade associations. These started out with very different missions, but because of the changing nature of our industry in more recent years they have increasingly undertaken similar functions in a growing number of areas. Furthermore, due to the size and structure of each existing organisation, we have not been able to set ourselves high enough goals and aspirations that reflect the importance of our industry economically and creatively to British society as well as on the international stage. The National Committee has formed a strong vision for the future:

“Our vision is for The National Association of Jewellers to be the UK’s leading jewellery association in supporting and promoting a professional, vibrant, and growing Jewellery Industry”.

Gary Wroe, chairman BJA and Andrew Hinds, chairman N.A.G.

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

In order to achieve this vision we are focusing the attention of the new association on the following mission:

“As the UK’s leading jewellery association, our mission is to increase confidence in the UK consumer’s purchase of jewellery, watches, silverware and other allied products; through the integrity, professionalism, governance, representation, education, training and creativity of our members”.

The job of the new CEO will be to deliver on the mission across the key areas described above. Key to the NAJ’s success will be: • Increasing consumer confidence in the purchase of jewellery • Ensuring that the provision of education, training, member benefits and other support services is fit for our industry • Raising ethical and professional standards within the industry • Effectively representing the industry to the outside world and reaching out to our stakeholders • Supporting members wishing to grow their businesses in the UK and abroad • Forging strong working relationships within the industry and other sectors Once appointed, the CEO will manage the key projects that will ensure the two organisations come together successfully. Once these foundations are in place, the important work of putting together the new working team, setting the short-, medium- and long-term goals and ‘deliverables’ will begin so that your trade association can progress to a new level in 2016 and beyond. There is much to do and we are looking forward to leading the National Committee. Our role is to set the strategic framework for the CEO and his team to deliver. We hope we can look back on this time in a year or two and be proud of what we have achieved during our stewardship and what we will be passing on to its subsequent leaders. There will be further information in the remaining issues of The Jeweller this year. All members of both current associations will receive these, so watch this space. The NAJ will operate from London and Birmingham offices. However, one additional job we have is to find a new home for the London team as, independent of this process, the N.A.G. agreed to sell the Luke Street premises a few weeks ago!

N.A.G. chairman

The officers and CEOs of both associations together at Goldsmiths’ Hall

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JULY 2015

BJA chairman

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

Sterling result at the N.A.G.’s AGM and BJA’s EGM!

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JULY 2015

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

What the trade IS sayING… Naturally the teams at the BJA and N.A.G. HQs are delighted that the ayes have it and we will very soon be a unified association. Happily the decision has the backing of the industry at large, as these comments we’ve solicited confirm… “I am delighted that a merger has been agreed between the BJA and the N.A.G. I have advocated for this for many years and I applaud all those involved for making this finally happen. Now we have one body speaking for the entire jewellery trade. One vision and one voice. Excellent stuff.” Mark Adlestone, Chairman, Beaverbrooks “It is important for our industry to have strong trade associations to help champion the highest standards in education, promotion and best practice. Combining the strengths of these two excellent organisations will bring added professionalism, expertise and knowledge to the industry, which can only be to the benefit of the whole sector. We will support the new organisation as it enters this new era.” Sam Willoughby, Event Director, IJL “The unification is excellent news for the jewellery industry in the UK. The synergy between the associations has allowed a single organisation to be created which will be greater than the sum of its parts. It will have a strong voice when dealing with national and international issues, which will be essential for shaping a successful future. Congratulations to all those who made it happen.” Robert Organ, Assay Master, Assay Office London “Combining forces is essential – the louder our voice the greater our influence. Unification is the obvious way forward to accommodate how the industry is now structured – makers retailing, retailers making.

It is logical, efficient and very welcome. All praise to the team that have achieved it... not an easy task.” Martyn Pugh, Gold and silversmith “The more cohesion there is amongst those in the jewellery community – wherever they stand in the supply chain – the greater the voice we will have on the national and international stage. For this reason alone I very much welcome the BJA/ N.A.G. unification and look forward to having just one body speaking for both retailers and suppliers.” Andrew Morton, MD of WB The Creative Jewellery Group “As someone who has over the years served on the Committees of both the BJA and the N.A.G. I am personally absolutely delighted to see this coming together. The new Association will surely create a stronger basis from which to promote the entire industry and will ultimately provide real benefit to members of both bodies.” Patrick Fuller, President of WB The Creative Jewellery Group “I think that the NAJ will be a more efficiently-run association, with enhanced member benefits including a wider reach and a single voice for the industry to fight on issues such as hallmarking or banned substances.” Tom Fattorini, Company Director, Fattorini “The N.A.G. and BJA have long been supporters of the idea of ethical jewellery and especially Fairtrade certified gold. Fairtrade trusts that with the emerging of the trade body for the UK retail and manufacturing sector it will continue to be as positive about the qualitative offer fairtrade gold has to offer to the UK jewellery sector.” Victoria Waugh, Fairtrade Foundation

“This is fantastic news. The combined benefits, knowledge and support behind the N.A.G. and BJA will only become stronger as a unified association. I have no doubts that the successful merger will deliver effective results for both the NAJ members and the wider jewellery industry, which I’m sure will continue to grow and thrive as a result. Congratulations to all involved; I look forward to seeing a positive change throughout the second half of 2015 and 2016.” Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director, Jewellery & Watch Birmingham at i2i Events Group “Congratulations on the joining of the N.A.G. and BJA to become the National Association of Jewellers! I believe it is absolutely the way forward to have a unified voice in the industry, which will instil confidence through the watch and jewellery market. It’s a very positive move for all concerned with a merging of knowledge and capabilities which will serve to create a positive aura and a trust in the industry that will ultimately lead to a more satisfied watch and jewellery consumer. Best of luck for the future…” David Harnby, MD, Seiko UK “I congratulate the two associations on their vote to unite, and believe that the membership of the both bodies will benefit from this decision. Harmonisation, whether it refers to standards or services is a positive thing, as is the ability to speak in one, clear and strong voice. I wish the new body the very best of luck.” Gaetano Cavalieri, President CIBJO

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

“T H March would like to take this opportunity to congratulate both associations on the momentous decision to merge both associations into the NAJ. We have enjoyed very close working relationships with both associations for many years and look forward to continuing and developing our partnership with the NAJ in the future.” Neil McFarlane, MD, TH March “As a long-standing and enthusiastic member of both the BJA and the N.A.G. I have always been very aware of the strengths of each association. We will now be able to take the best of both forward to become a hugely strong and collaborative body for the whole trade encompassing our entire industry. It has been a brave decision and at times a challenging journey for those making it happen but everybody I speak with in the trade is thrilled as it makes sense on every level. I am delighted!” Harriet Kelsall, Owner/Founder HK Jewellery “Bransom congratulates the NAJ on the successful unification of two strong trade bodies, which can only strengthen our industry and enable retailers and suppliers to work more closely together and benefit from a larger pool of advice, training, guidance and resources. We’re really proud and delighted to support the NAJ, and are very much looking forward to the new strengths that combining all the highly-talented people from the N.A.G. and BJA will produce.” Chris Garland, Managing Director, Bransom Retail Systems

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“We certainly wish the new organisation a fabulous future and we are sure they will lead by example and provide support to those that are trying to do likewise to maintain the ethics and standard of this industry.” Stuart Laing, Chairman The Houlden Group “I was the first female chair of the BJA in 2004, and at that time knew there had been discussions about the potential of ONE jewellery industry body representing and lobbying for the trade. I am really pleased that it has finally come off and congratulate all of the hard work involved by those who made it happen. I do think it will be a challenge balancing the needs of the different segments of the membership, but that balance is absolutely NOT insurmountable. My aspiration is it makes us a stronger industry overall and that our voice is significantly louder in all of the right quarter with this unification.” Stella Layton, Assay Master, Birmingham Assay Office “I believe that it is both timely and fitting that we now have one association representing manufacturing and retailing here in the UK. Our sector has gone through a period of momentous change. We require a more joined up and effective approach to ensure that we exploit the opportunities and overcome the challenges we face going forward. Education and training will be at the heart of this and the Goldsmiths’ Centre looks forward to working effectively with the new National Association of Jewellers to ensure that we have the right people, with the right skills in place to ensure that we rise to this challenge.” Peter Taylor, Director, The Goldsmiths’ Centre

“For years there has been talk of a merger between the N.A.G. and the BJA. I remember proposing such a merger many years ago when I was the chairman of the BJA. In many ways this seems to be a no brainer. In recent years the distinction between the two associations has become somewhat fuzzy – so why has it taken so long? The jewellery industry in the UK will benefit – they can now talk with one voice representing the whole industry. This will help in talking with other bodies, governments and in the international sphere. Traditionalists need not be concerned – the new body will soon set its own traditions.” Harry Levy, President, London Diamond Bourse “I am delighted that the vote has been in favour of unification. This is long overdue in my opinion and I am sure this will help the trade by being a much stronger organisation and one that has a much louder voice to make changes” Ashley Carson, Assay Master and CEO, Sheffield Assay Office “I have long held the opinion that the N.A.G. and BJA are two sides of the same coin and that it makes absolute sense for them to be joined together to represent the British jewellery trade. I am certain that the single organisation will be both more efficient and speak with a more authoritative voice as a result, to the benefit of all of the membership and of the jewellery buying public too.” Stephen Alabaster, Director, Alabaster & Wilson “The formation of the National Association of Jewellers is a welcome and positive step. Trade associations play an important role in our trade, and GIA congratulates these two professional associations as they strive to provide a unified voice for the UK jewellery industry.” Edward Johnson, GIA GG, Director, London Education, GIA

6-8

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

“We’re very happy that the N.A.G. and BJA are combining – I can see this leading to more unity in the industry and a stronger body to provide guidance for our customers. I can see it encouraging innovation too. In the grand scheme of things, the jewellery world is a small one; I welcome any changes that mean collaboration for its benefit.” Ed Ferris, Owner, Swag “I was a director for the Federation on the previous occasion that merger discussions commenced. I am so pleased that we are now able to see completion of this milestone for our trade. No longer the ‘them and us’ syndrome, now we are one, and a new co-operative culture will evolve of building and strengthening our trade within the UK. One trade organisation, from bullion and gem suppliers, via manufacturers in the UK, through to the retail client; the only way to be totally sure that all stages comply with ethical supply and practices.” Apple Nootenboom ll, MD, Hean Studio and Chairman of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths “I am thrilled to see that the industry has come together to form the National Association of Jewellers. The unification of the BJA and N.A.G. will help galvanise the UK’s position across the international jewellery market and ensure our industry thrives in the coming years. I hope this step is just the first of many bringing jewellers together to collaborate in creating the trade in precious stones and metals that our customers deserve.” Steve Bennett, CEO, Gemporia. “It’s great that the trade has spoken with a positive vote for the creation of the National Association of Jewellers – truly an historic moment! From my own perspective the joining of the two associations gives a real opportunity to develop what is

already an exciting industry. I’m looking forward to seeing increased support for its members and the wider UK jewellery trade. With one voice the NAJ will be able to make positive changes at all levels of the trade from manufacturing, right the way through to retail. A strong trade organisation that changes and develops alongside the future needs of a dynamic and thriving industry.” Richard Oldroyd, MD Cookson Gold “This is an excellent outcome which is long overdue. We look forward to a clear focus and the value of joining resources for the future benefit of our industry. There is so much exciting potential for the next generation and this is a perfect new beginning.” Gaynor Andrews, Head of the School of Jewellery, BCU ‘The World is changing fast and all businesses and organisations must evolve or slowly die. I am delighted that the N.A.G. and BJA have not clung on to the past but have adapted in order to offer more and grow. Pooling their resources makes economic sense and gives the new association greater authority in speaking for the wider trade. While there will be some areas of difference between the challenges facing retailers and the manufacturers, there are greater areas of shared interest. We need each other and that more enlightened symbiotic relationship and improved communication should help strengthen the UK jewellery trade.” Michael Laing OBE, Owner/Chairman of Laing the Jeweller Ltd (Laing Edinburgh, Parkhouse Cardiff and Hampshire) “The unification is very welcome and will allow the UK jewellery industry to speak with one voice. Those involved in bringing this about deserve our appreciation because a solitary voice representing all parts of the industry will be much more powerful than the previous fragmented picture.” Tony Tankel, MD, H.W Tankel

“The unification of the BJA and the N.A.G. can only be a positive thing. For instance, greater collaboration and intelligence-sharing between the two organisations will inevitably result in greater security for its members.” Lee Ruben, MD, Gemex “At Spring Fair 2013 I bumped into Mark Adlestone and as we put the world to rights we questioned why the trade didn’t have a single voice. It made no sense to us. We agreed to champion the notion that the BJA and N.A.G. should merge. It wasn’t a difficult argument to make; a number of members on both sides were already thinking the same. Before long the initiative gathered its own momentum. It goes to show what can happen with a shared vision. The NAJ has a shared vision to grow the British jewellery trade and put it on the map for the consumer. I wish it, its fantastic executive team, and all its members the very best of luck in this exciting next chapter…” Jason Holt CBE, CEO Holts Group “The unification will bring great opportunities for unity within the jewellery supply chain. The two boards have worked tirelessly to achieve the unification of two stalwarts of the industry. I hope that there will be strength in leadership of the newly elected board that will ensure that the CEO will be given the resource, respect and investment that will be required to ensure that the vision of the unification is delivered for the benefit of everyone in the industry. The unification is a momentous achievement, but now the real hard work must begin.” Willie Hamilton, CEO, CMJ

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 17

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Talking to the top table As we progress toward the formalising of the unification, we speak to the N.A.G.’s current president, Margaret Harris and Patrick Fuller, who will be president of the National Association of Jewellers.

Margaret Harris

What in your view are the most pressing concerns of retailers today? Brands. How do we live with them and how do we live without them? Brands are the main talking point between retailers when we meet at any event.

What is top of your agenda now? I’ll meet with the members of both sides and help facilitate the “consummation of the marriage”. Once the NAJ is operational I will step aside and hopefully watch a flourishing organisation from my retirement bench. I am looking forward to seeing a unified trade – no more ‘them and us’. What led you to take a key role in the Association? I joined N.A.G. in 1979 – you had to be running a business for two years before you could apply for membership. In 1981 I put myself forward for the council to represent the smaller business – we were lacking in

What concerns face the manufacturing industry today? A very difficult question. Each business has its own particular set of problems and whatever the state of the economy and other external, commercial, pressures, there will always be winners and losers. That said, the current uncertainty in Europe is no friend to our industry and because Britain is seen to be doing rather better than some other EU members, there are a lot of foreign producers entering the market bringing increased competition.

Patrick Fuller

What’s next for you once the NAJ is operational? Mine is an honorary role and it will most certainly not be my job to set the agenda – I’ll happily leave that to others better qualified than I. The excellent progress thus far has been brought about by the very competent unification team, which will undertake this task. However, there are a number of things which are close to my heart, which I’m sure will be up for consideration – not least education and training. This has been a very important element of the work of both associations, the N.A.G. especially, and I hope to see this receiving significant further investment. What is the role of a trade body… the NAJ in particular? I think one of the most important roles a trade body can fulfil is to have

18 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

representation – and to my surprise I was elected. I served on many committees, including Membership and Education, and was elected chairman in 1996 – only the second lady chairman in its 100-year history. Tell us about you and your business In 1959 I became a Saturday girl for James Walkers Jewellers, then became a full-time cashier – I loved it. Next I worked for Chambers of Luton, a small family chain that grew to be J Weir and Sons. I trained up to manager, although lady managers were rare then because “insurers would not want females in charge because of the danger of attack”. In 1977 I opened Flitwick Jewellers and built up the business to four shops. I now take a back seat – my daughter Vanessa and son-in-law Paul run the three shops we have now. We started as a family jewellers supplying an assortment of goods and services and built up a great rapport with local families… which we still have, although the shop has changed in look and content. Giftware has now almost disappeared and gold sales have largely been replaced by silver brands. I was honoured and thrilled to be elected president in 2013 and at such an important time, and am pleased to be leaving knowing that the two associations are ‘Stronger Together’.

the ear of Government and to speak out loudly on legislation affecting the industry. Having one large body, rather than two smaller ones, speaking with one voice must surely be a very positive thing in this respect. Another important area for me is marketing and promotion. The UK jewellery trade has in the past allowed bodies like The World Gold Council, The Diamond Trading Company and The Platinum Guild to promote jewellery to the consumer and has also ridden on the coat tails of major brands like Tiffany. Unfortunately the jewellery bodies have moved on to larger, more lucrative global markets and I hope that the NAJ can take the lead in promoting jewellery to the general public and help it stand out from the plethora of other luxury goods with which it must compete. Tell us a little bit about you and your business. Our initial business, the casting company Weston Beamor, was formed by my wife’s father just after WWII. Since then we have added our precious jewellery brand Domino in the 1980s and more recently acquired the fashion jewellery brand Gecko. I joined the company some 40 years ago when my father-in-law died unexpectedly young. The company, like the industry, has changed dramatically. We have invested heavily in new technologies and in our staff. We now have a large in-house design department and a sophisticated production facility in Birmingham providing a comprehensive range of services to retailers and suppliers and making many of Domino’s own product ranges. We also have a trade counter in London and a warehouse in Essex to service Gecko’s customers. However some things remain reassuringly the same and we still strive to maintain the old-fashioned, ethical business values we began with and to offer our customers the very best we can in terms of products and services.

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Meet the Team There were a number of deeply dedicated individuals drawn from the officers of the BJA and N.A.G. who worked tirelessly behind the scenes to bring about the unification of the two associations. Together the six individuals – along with yet-to-be-elected officers of sub-committees and the new CEO – will make up the National Committee of the National Association of Jewellers when it is formally established at the start of 2016. Here’s an introduction to the ‘Working-Party-Six’:

BJA deputy chairman Gary Williams has wide experience of both manufacturing and retailing jewellery. He is now a director of Presman Mastermelt, as well as chairman of the Hatton Garden Business Improvement District.

The BJA chairman, Gary Wroe has spent a lifetime in the jewellery industry entering, some 30 years ago, as a manufacturing apprentice on a scheme organised through the BJA, to become MD of Hockley Mint, one of UK’s largest casting and precious jewellery production companies. He was very involved in the merger of Merrell Casting and Hockley Mint. Gary champions the training and development of his staff and the firm has recently won UKJA 2015 ‘Employer of the Year’.

HELEN O’NEILL

“The support for unification across the industry was just amazing and it is most gratifying to know that our fresh vision for a consumer-focussed, united jewellery industry is shared by so many. Now and over the next few months, it will be a matter of sorting out the technical nuts and bolts of integrating the two organisations, in preparation for the exciting times ahead.”

Helen O’Neill, vice chairman of the BJA, has a background in European business and has held marketing roles in a number of large companies. She is now MD of the PMC Studio, the sole UK distributor of precious metal clay for the Mitsubishi Materials Corporation. “My vision for this new unified body is to be a leading and forward-thinking jewellery association. The Unification Working Party is consulting with the Federation so that the legal, commercial and administrative processes are put into place to ensure we have the new NAJ organisation by January 2016. In the meantime we are all really looking forward to International Jewellery London when the two associations will come together on one fabulous stand. We hope that everyone will find some time during the show to come and see us there – it will be a great chance to have any queries answered and learn more about the future of the Association.”

20 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

GARY WROE

GARY WILLIAMS

“With the unification of the associations, I am incredibly positive about the Association’s potential. Combining the knowledge and expertise from both associations, I am confident that the NAJ will have an invaluable influence on the jewellery industry, improving brand identity, ensuring the maximum consumer confidence and ultimately creating an association that our members can be proud of. The leadership teams of both organisations have formed a very strong working relationship so we will continue to work together to find the best way for us to move forward as one new association that best serves the industry.”

UNIFICATION ISSUE

“I am delighted that we have received the endorsement of our members to complete the merger...” s

“I am delighted that we have received the endorsement of our members to complete the merger and I am excited about the future that both of our associations now have as part of a stronger body which speaks for the whole industry. I am confident that our members will see the benefits that we have promised and that even more will follow. Both trade bodies recognise that the way the industry does business has changed, and today our respective members and what we provide for them as services and benefits, are not so different. We want to make sure that we preserve the important parts of our heritage, as well as improve and streamline the benefits and services to meet the needs of all our members in the future. We want to work with everyone involved in the wider jewellery trade to ensure that we build on our long and successful history to provide a future in which all types of businesses can both survive and thrive.”

SIMON JOHNSON

The chairman of the N.A.G. Andrew Hinds is a director of F Hinds, a sixth-generation family business with more than one hundred jewellery shops spread across England and Wales.

Simon Johnson of the award-winning jewellery retailer Marmalade, in Chiswick, London has been in the jewellery trade since he was 10 years old, working within his family business, selling and making jewellery. He is the N.A.G.’s vice-chairman. “As a retail jeweller I know how important it is for our customers to have trust in our professionalism as jewellers, and for them to know we treat them with respect and integrity. We want these characteristics to continue and be the mark of all members of the new association.”

PRAVIN PATTNI

ANDREW HINDS

Pravin Pattni who is a past chairman of the N.A.G., is a director of the fourth- generation family business Minar Jewellers of Tooting in London, which was recently short-listed for the accolade ‘Retailer of the Year’ in the BJA’s annual Awards. “As we look to the future our focus now should be directed towards the consumer to raise our standards. We need to find ways to support and encourage the growth of the jewellery sector, expand the range of training, education and mentoring services to meet the needs of the whole industry.”

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 21

ASSOCIATION NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

New member applications

Sally Kennard and David Kimberley of Clark Diamonds, Jessica Mead and Gary Wroe, Hockley Mint.

‘I Do’ competition winner announced J

essica Mead, design assistant at Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery has won the BJA Fairtrade ‘I Do’ Competition. UK designers were asked to draw up a matching wedding and engagement ring set in Fairtrade gold, featuring a 50pt round brilliant-cut lab certified diamond and up to half a carat of small stones gifted by the award-winning, Birmingham diamond dealer Clark Diamonds. Mead travelled to Birmingham earlier this month to start to work closely with the manufacturer Hockley Mint to fabricate the rings in Fairtrade gold, which will be gifted by the company. Gary Wroe, MD of Hockley Mint said: “It is great to see young designers entering competitions and we are very pleased to make these rings by transforming Jessica’s unique hand-drawn design into CAD and cast in 18ct Fairtrade gold; a service that we provide for designer makers.” “We are very proud to be supporting both the Fairtrade Foundation and British design talent,” added Mike Barrows from Clark Diamonds. “I entered the competition as I have a real passion for Fairtrade gold and traceability, something that all of us at HK Bespoke feel very strongly about,” Mead explained. “I feel so privileged to have won this within the competitive jewellery industry.” Explaining her winning design she added: “This Fairtrade Bridal set was designed to firstly symbolise the union of two people and the past of them both, intertwining and becoming one whole. Subtly complementing each other, either ring can be worn on its own, but becomes complete when worn together. “The wrapping knot detail around the diamond symbolises protection and support, the open braiding detail symbolises the two paths and the modern marriage being an equal partnership. The open braided detail along the band not only represents the joining paths of the wearer but also represents the open nature of the Fairtrade organisation and the knotting detail reflects the unity and importance of the miners, suppliers and jewellers creating a structure of support (which holds the diamonds).” Victoria Waugh, Fairtrade global business development manager on gold, said: “We couldn’t be happier that Jessica has won the competition. HK Bespoke and its designers are well-known for their commitment to working with gold from disadvantaged mining communities; their understanding of the need for Fairtrade gold is inspirational. The pioneering jewellers choosing to support our ‘I Do’ campaign are paving the way for change in the jewellery industry, while creating a better life for artisanal gold miners and their families.”

KickStarter wins New Designers prize F

22 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

Full Member Applications • B arnes Jewellery Co. Ltd., London • Smith & Green Jewellers Ltd., London Corporate Associate Applications • A telier Technology, Hampshire Personal Associate Applications • P atricia Rose Bohanna, Bispham • Donna Caward, London • John Keaney, Bushey • J ason Standring, Nottingham

IRV applications If members wish to comment on any of these please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615. Upgrading from Member to Fellow • L eona Fish PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip BA(Hons) 3D Design - Silversmithing & Jewellery, The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Bath. • N ick D Hadler PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip FNAG, The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Bath. • H ilary L Hubberstey PJDip PJValDip FNAG FGA, Newtownabbey.

ollowing her success at the Goldsmiths Crafts Awards earlier this year, Flora Bhattachary, a previous BJA KickStarter, has won the New Designers One Year On Award. The award is one of a number given to design graduates showing at the annual Islington exhibition. Bhattachary won a £500 cash prize from New Designers, £200 cash prize from The Design Trust, one year’s free Design Trust Business Club membership (worth £300), six-week online coaching marketing programme (worth £245) and one year’s free membership to Design Nation. In the opinion of the judges she won thanks to: “a strong collection, very well balanced between tradition and individual style, and well presented. She shows very good awareness of her position in the luxury market as well as great focus.”

To ensure that N.A.G. Members are aware of new applications for N.A.G. Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below and on our website. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Eléonore Beahan on 0207 749 9411 or email: eleonore. beahan@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

• A ndrew R Lamputt PJDip PJManDip, Andrew Lamputt (Silversmith & Jeweller), Hereford. • B arbara L Leal GG GIA Diamonds Graduate, JEMS, Pinner. Smoky quartz ring by Flora Bhattachary

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Domino designer wins IJL/BJA Diamond Competition Neil from Domino is the winner of the Diamond Jewellery R ebecca Design competition that celebrates the event’s diamond jubilee this year. All UK companies exhibiting at IJL 2015 were eligible to enter the competition and the judges had a choice of 30 designs, all incorporating exactly 60 points of diamonds – one for each year that IJL has been in business. The points could be split in any way the entrant wished and manufactured in any precious or non-precious materials of their choosing. Neil won with her unique bangle ‘Stella Una’, a title derived from the Latin word for planet and ‘una’ meaning together as one. The piece reflects how IJL brings people from all corners of the world together in one place. The competition was judged by a panel including: Helen Dimmick, MD of jewellery retailer Green + Benz; the luxury, bespoke jewellery designer David Marshall and Justine Carmody, production and development director at Stephen Webster, as well as representatives from the BJA and IJL. The runner-up in the competition is Anna-Anthea Carter, also from Domino, with her ‘Sparkle’ celebration earrings, which signify the explosion of thoughts and creativity of designs that have emerged over the past 60 years. Four highly commended designs were also chosen each of which interpreted the brief in different ways. These came from: Kristjan Eyjolfsson, who created a brooch called ‘Kampavin’ (champagne in Icelandic) in which carved features and facets represent bubbles in a crystal flute. Siobhan Maher of Domino whose ‘Earrings for Dancing’ were felt to be full of life and vivacity; Dalia Daou who created an unusual candle-shaped pendant incorporating the initials IJL and Emma Louise Darnell also of Domino whose ‘Constellation’ necklace drew its inspiration from the stars.

Get ready for the busy season E

njoy the summer lull while you can… it’s going to be an eventful autumn. Training courses and seminars aside, International Jewellery London is almost upon us and this year, to mark the marriage of the two associations, both teams will come together on one bumper stand. We’ll reveal all in the next issue of The Jeweller, which will be devoted to the show. No sooner will the dust have settled on IJL than we’ll be off to the IRV Loughborough Conference (12th – 14th September). For those who have never attended this great long weekend, we should point out that although it’s a ‘must’ for valuers, there’s so much to glean from the talks, workshops and networking, that absolutely anyone in the industry can benefit from being there. (Contact irv@jewellersonline.org for details.) Meanwhile, we will continue to keep you up-to-date with news on the unification – in particular the appointment of the new CEO. E-mails will wing their way to you from n.a.g@dotmailer-email.com – as they contain important information from the Association we ask that you add this address to your safe sender list.

Jet tutor goes to top of the class congratulations go to Michelle McCormick, one of the tutors O urworking with students on the N.A.G.’s JET course, who has received a First Class Bachelor of Science with Honours Gemmology and Jewellery Studies degree. At the graduation prize-giving ceremony at Birmingham City University (BCU) she also won the Fellows and Sons Award for the most industry-relevant valuation and appraisal project. This is the first year (2014-15) that BCU has run this course, which covers diamonds, advanced gemstones, geology of gemstones and valuation and appraisal theory. Students used advanced spectroscopy equipment including the FTIR and Raman.

N.A.G. member marks 40 years with exhibition In House offers member benefits

pecialist jewellery and watch marketing agency In House, part of House Creative Agency, has become a member of the BJA and as part of its relationship with the Association is offering members a complimentary, no obligation overview of the member’s marketing communications worth £1,000 as well as 10 per cent discount on the normal In House hourly rate. The same benefits are already afforded to N.A.G. members and will thus apply to all members of the newlyformed NAJ. All clients are offered a choice of simple, fixed-price marketing packages with a defined menu of deliverables.

Lynn-based jewellery retailer and Association member K ings Tim Clayton has celebrated 40 years in business with an exhibition showcasing 40 of Tim’s specially commissioned pieces from the past four decades. The retrospective starts with his first commission in 1975 – a commemorative titanium badge for the Kings Lynn Soroptimists (part of a global association for women in management) and also includes a silver model boat and a seal’s head pendant. Collating the exhibits proved a challenge, particularly as a few early commission records had been eaten by mice! This year is also the 20th anniversary of Tim becoming a freeman of The Goldsmiths’ Company.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 23

ASSOCIATION NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Loughborough 2015 Our 25th return to campus This year’s N.A.G.’s IRV Loughborough Conference takes place over the long weekend of Saturday 12th to Monday 14th September and for the 25th year running we are returning to our tried-and-tested, first class venue, Loughborough University of Technology. What with a four-star hotel on-site, where we accommodate delegate and guest speakers, this location is ideal for our Conference needs – nowhere else can provide sufficient rooms for our unique programme and at such excellent prices!

his year’s Conference has a great line up of guest speakers – at the time of writing an amazing 33 specialists from our industry covering topics such as valuation/appraisal methodology, diamonds, various gemstones (identification, pricing, testing, etc.), silver, antique jewellery, hallmarking, business promotion, horology, manufacturing and insurance. Our programme includes a record 26 workshops – some repeats from previous years (for those who couldn’t attend them before) and many new ones. As we go to press, this year’s Conference is sponsored by the following bodies and businesses: • Platinum Sponsor – Gem-A • Silver Sponsors – The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers and T H March & Co Ltd, AnchorCert, Eickhorst, The Guild of Valuers and Jewellers We are grateful to them for their generous support of our event.

The Conference Package Fees available until 21st August start at £475.00 for members, per person, willing to share a bedroom and include all of the following: • Lectures and workshops on Saturday, Sunday and Monday • Opportunities to purchase instruments and books • Learning all about valuation software available in the UK • New for this year we have a Gemstone Market on the Sunday • Various hand-outs • Accommodation in Burleigh Court on Saturday and Sunday • Two breakfasts • Three lunches

24 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

• Two dinners (with wine) • A Welcome Reception (with wine) • Afternoon and morning tea/ coffee/biscuit breaks • There will also be a free raffle for a copy of Alan Hodgkinson’s long-awaited book, Gem Testing Techiques courtesy of guest speaker Steve Carson (those delegates who don’t win the raffle will also be able to purchase copies of the book at the special price of £115 instead of the normal price of £128 plus £10 postage). Delegates can also arrive on the Friday if they wish for a small extra cost (to cover dinner and accommodation).

You really shouldn’t miss it – ask the delegates who have been coming every year for the last 20 or so years!

If you would like a brochure please contact Sandra Page at irv@jewellers-online.org or download it from the IRV’s website’s ‘Loughborough Conference’ page.

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

The Institute of

Registered Valuers

Frank Wood, recently appointed chairman of the IRV, outlines the background, standards and aims of the Institute. The N.A.G.’s Institute of Registed Valuers (IRV) began in 2008. However, the origins of a gathering of valuers who would work to exacting standards goes back to 1987. The pioneers could see that valuations completed at that time were falling well below the standards that should be expected of a professional valuer. Sadly the jewellery trade had become one where everything was expected to be supplied gratis. A member of the public would visit their local jeweller with a ring perhaps and expect that jeweller to know its value immediately. Why should the jeweller not just say how much the item was worth? Surely they would know the value? This was a dangerous state of affairs. The experience, knowledge and qualifications of the jeweller were not appreciated, there was no time allowed to assess qualities, no testing or checking of gemstones, no cleaning of diamonds to determine true characteristics – just a quick view and a snap decision made. It’s different now. We live in more litigious times. The qualifications of the valuer are hard come by; years of experience are needed to assess jewellery, and all that knowledge has a value, so why should it be ‘given away’? This doesn’t happen in other professions. Make no mistake, valuing is a professional service that is provided by highly knowledgable individuals and is, today, governed by the IRV.

Both retail and independent valuers are passionate about the need for professionalism within the trade and are rightly proud of the Institute – as can be witnessed by the large attendance at the unmissable annual conference at Loughborough. So, can a new junior sales assistant take a course to become a valuer? ‘Not quite’. The N.A.G. offers CAT (Certificate of Appraisal Theory), which teaches the basic theories, methodologies and good working practices needed to become a competent jewellery valuer and this is needed, together with ‘proof of knowledge’ in the form of a minimum of five years’ experience in the jewellery trade, a gemmological qualification and a diamond grading qualification (check www.jewelleryvaluers.org for details). Once elected, valuers must gain Continued Professional Development points throughout each year in order to retain membership. Unfortunately there are cases of valuations being completed which are not based on a true knowledge of the industry and this is damaging to the trade. Although there can never be a substitute for knowledge or experience, it is massively beneficial for anyone undertaking valuations to learn a proven way of constructing a valuation, which is one of the elements covered in CAT. This helps to protect the valuer from possible claims against them for negligence. In court you are able to be incorrect, but not negligent, which is why ‘working notes’ are so vital and a requirement of IRV monitoring, to demonstrate how a valuation has been arrived at. Becoming a member of the Institute is an honour, a privilege and, having obtained the experience, gem qualifications and fulfilling other criteria is the pinnacle of a jeweller’s career! What does the future hold for the IRV? There’s a massive need for qualified valuers; in such litigious times it’s vitally important that valuations are created professionally and are legally sound. The only way to ensure protection from a possible ‘backlash’ from a disgruntled customer is to be professional and value only items that you are qualified to appraise.

Unfortunately and surprisingly it would seem anyone can ‘do valuations’ without any experience, knowledge or qualifications! So, what does the Institute do? All IRVs are subject to the rules and regulations of the Institute and monitored regularly to ensure that they are maintaining their experience and knowledge. This ensures that the valuers that the Institute ‘governs’ are the very best, and that their documents can be relied upon by insurance companies, courts or any third parties, as professional, accurate documents.

There are many calls on a retailer’s time but please do not forego a lucrative revenue stream by avoiding valuations. There are many independent IRVs who will ‘relieve’ you of the workload, give you a professional, high quality service.There’s not just the revenue of the valuation that could be lost; if you don’t facilitate valuations you are sending a client/potential client to one of your competitors! There’s a growing number of insurance companies which will accept valuations from an IRV only – a powerful reason to offer this important service. Also, the days of the ‘free valuation’ are over and valuations are being recognised as professional documents, and warrant a professional fee.

The N.A.G. has invested huge amounts of time and money in establishing the Institute, originally assisting retailers to attain high standards and allow the promotion of these highly-qualified jewellers, primarily to insurance companies. From the early days, independent valuers driven the need for professionalism and knowledge, and have been instrumental in the huge success of the Institute.

Should IRV appear to be ‘big brother’ watching over valuers, be assured this is not the case – we are watching OUT for valuers. The IRVs create their own credibility, protection and ‘self help’ via the IRV email group; we’re an incredibly close, protective family. Many of the country’s leading valuers give up their time and energy to help other valuers and for this the Institute is extremely grateful.

26 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

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EDUCATION

UNIFICATION ISSUE

More than a little learning… Whether retailer or supplier, there’s no question that all in our industry can benefit from education. While experience counts for a great deal, there is always more to be learnt. Currently, the BJA and the N.A.G. offer their own ranges of courses, seminars and programmes (as outlined here) and when the two associations formally unite, all members will have access to the broadest possible choice of education and training.

N.A.G.

BJA

Providing education and training since 1945

Mentoring, learning, developing…

The N.A.G. has been providing education and training to the retail jewellery industry since 1945. The Association’s educational programme now provides internationally recognised courses and qualifications for members of the industry, from trainees up to proprietors and senior staff. The importance of education cannot be over-estimated; members of a retail sales team with recognised trade qualifications have higher self-esteem and better sales records.

Among its various education and training programmes on offer, The BJA provides mentoring as a benefit to its members and is principally aimed at Association members supplying UK designed and manufactured jewellery. Drawing on both business experience and knowledge of the jewellery trade, The BJA is ideally placed to offer this service and members are invited to put themselves forward as mentors, while at the same time, other members can apply to become mentees. Any BJA member can apply for mentoring irrespective of whether they are a new or existing company. Typical topics range from start up and business development to specific areas such as finance, marketing, legal and human resources. The programme is managed and operated by a committee and the BJA office team. They are responsible for vetting the mentors, dealing with mentee applications and the introduction of mentees to mentors. (www.bjamentoring.org.uk for more details)

Taking into accounts different needs and constraints on time, there are two strands of training: full-time courses and one and two-day courses/worskshops. The series of distance learning courses for the jewellery industry (with the exception of the Certificate of Appraisal Training) are all termed ‘JET’, short for Jewellery Education and Training. They cover a range of topics from basic product and selling skills through to business and valuation expertise. Most JET courses can be commenced at any time of year to suit the participant. The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma has long been seen as the industry gold standard. The Diploma qualification is divided into two separate courses known as JET1 and JET2. The JET1 online course (which takes six months or less to complete) is essential for anyone involved in jewellery sales or who would like to improve their jewellery product knowledge. It covers customer service and complaints, gemstones (such as the four Cs, recognising coloured stones etc), recognising and understanding precious metals, hallmarking, jewellery terminology, rings, design and manufacture, watches and clocks, silverware, selling and personal development. Each student receives a study pack of books, notes, loupe etc, is allocated a tutor and must complete five assignments during the course. The JET2 course lasts for 12 months (although it can be completed sooner) and is a more in-depth examination of the industry. As well as subjects introduced in JET1 (like diamonds, gems and selling), it also looks at alternative shopping, display, jewellery history, law, pawnbroking, security, service and repairs and valuations. Recently updated, this course now comprises seven assignments, including one in-depth research project; this replaces the exam previously taken at the end of the course.

Whether the aim is to up-skill, improve product knowledge, introduce a young person to the industry or drive a business forward, the Association can help put members in touch with excellent course providers. Discounted and free training is also available. For discounted courses (including at the Birmingham Assay Office) visit: www.bja.org.uk/en/training/index.cfm Set up in 1999 by Holts Lapidary, the renowned gemstone and fine jewellery specialists in Hatton Garden, Holts Academy is a training provider for jewellery industry professionals. At www.holtsacademy. com you can view the extensive range of short and long jewellery courses and Master Classes which cover everything from CAD/CAM and jewellery manufacture certificates and diplomas through to enameling, stone setting and Rhino. BJA members can receive a 10 per cent discount on many courses, so contact the Academy Admissions Team on 020 7405 0197, quoting your membership number to see which course works for you and to book. Jo Henderson of JHJC specialises in business development consultancy. Clients include brands such as Clogau and Casio in addition to an array of independent retailers. In the last 15 years Henderson has founded a chain of retail stores, worked as a buyer of jewellery and watches stocking up to 80 brands and recently brand managed renowned jewellery designer Fei Liu. With expertise in areas such as product development, market positioning and KPI implementation, she has also run a number of seminars for BJA members, but can also offer one-toone sessions (for large and small businesses).

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 29

EDUCATION

UNIFICATION ISSUE

TWO MORE Bransom winners for march and april Andranik Zatikyan

ndranik Zatikyan is this March’s prestigious Bransom award winner. He started his career in the jewellery business just one and a half years ago at Bentley and Skinner, where he is still employed. “I have to say, it is a great place to work,” he told us. “As we specialise in antique and period jewellery, I have the pleasure of handling unique pieces every day, jewellery that I used to see only in museums. Also we are doing lots of restorations and repairs for our customers and this makes my job even more interesting. In this job you always see happy customers, people who have something to celebrate and they are sharing their happiness with you.”

is all about research and I really enjoyed that. The last two assignments on gemstones and diamonds were the most interesting and challenging ones. The more I studied about gems, the more interesting it became. And I realised that you can study gems all your life, but there will still be plenty more things to discover.” Andranik’s moderator Eddie Stanley said “There are several interesting facts contained in his final JET 1 assignment that made it stand out from the others, it included an historical account of the meaning of the word ‘carat’ used in diamond grading classification. There was an excellent explanation covering the development of diamond cutting from the middle of the 14th Century to modern day methods. The colour and clarity sections of the diamond grading system were given extensive coverage to a particularly high standard.” Stanley continued: “One of the highlights of this final assignment related to the communication of this diamond product knowledge to a potential customer. It was most interesting and really well answered. Andranik possesses a very clear understanding of the importance of ‘customer care’ to the retail jeweller. Congratulations to a worthy winner.”

How did Andranik feel about winning the Bransom Award? “I really wanted to win it and I did my best during my JET 1 studies for that. But my hope and confidence were decreasing with every day, and after 15 April I thought, that someone else won it, because I had no feedback. So when I received the phone call, I was really surprised. I was happy, that I could prove myself, that I could achieve my goal. And I want to thank all my colleagues, because I have learnt a lot from them during my time here and that knowledge helped me to win.” “I enjoyed JET 1 very much,” he added. “This course gave me knowledge and confidence, which I will use every day in the shop. I would say that JET 1

Sophie-Anna Brough

he Bransom winner for April is Sophie-Anna Brough who works for Kent jewellers A. Simmonds. “I started working for the business almost a year and a half ago; I studied fashion at university and after graduating, I was offered a job helping out over the Christmas period,” she explained. “However, working at A. Simmonds, I learned an incredible amount and wanted to pursue this further by continuing full time. I now have a rewarding role, helping and meeting new people every day, especially as I design bracelets for the shop. I can further my creativity as well as my knowledge and customer service skills plus knowing that I have made a customer happy at the end of each day, makes my job worthwhile.” “When the N.A.G. called to tell me that I had won the Bransom Award, I was busy working. I looked at my manager in excitement as I couldn’t wait to tell all my colleagues the good news! I was actually a little shocked I had won, but I had put a lot of hard work and effort into receiving the best grades possible for my JET 1 course and it felt fulfilling, knowing that it had been recognised and awarded. I had an excellent tutor and thoroughly enjoyed the course.”

30 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

Sophie explained that JET 1 allowed her to widen her knowledge and enhance her skills. “I feel confident in serving my customers with the knowledge that I gained through a nationally-recognised qualification. I particularly enjoyed the new online aspect as it is an excellent way of using modern technology to further my studies. Every assignment was fascinating – I learnt something new in each one. However the final fifth project allowed me to research more into gemstones and get a good in-depth knowledge, which I was eager for. “The JET 1 qualification will help me to progress in my career – it shows that I have the dedication and commitment to work within the jewellery industry. I feel confident talking to customers about gemstones and improving my sales skills. I am looking forward to taking JET 2 and by working hard I hope to one day be given a higher position. My advice to anyone thinking about taking the JET 1 course is to enjoy and learn and I am sure you will succeed.” Eddie Stanley the moderator added: “Sophie-Anna has produced a very impressive final assignment. It included very detailed coverage of various diamond grading systems. There was also a section on coloured diamonds which was well-planned and presented. Gemmological terms were fully explained in relationship to diamonds. She has recorded some excellent dialogues with her potential clients; these demonstrate her professional approach to selling quality diamonds and her notes regarding the repair/ restoration of a diamond ring are first class. Congratulations to Sophie-Anna on being awarded this prestigious JET 1 Bransom Award.”

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Many congratulations to the newly formed National Association of Jewellers. Looking forward to a bright future.

Congratulating the newly formed ‘National Association of Jewellers’.

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RETAIL MEMBERSHIP

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Talking shops The coming together of two key trade bodies creates an association that represents the broadest possible sweep of the industry. On the consumer-facing side, the NAJ will comprise all elements of retailing, from the largest multiples, to niche boutiques and traditional independents. Our break-down here not only demonstrates how the lines between supplier and retailer have become blurred of late, it also illustrates the dramatic development of routes to market.

Watches of Switzerland Store

Large multiples (125-plus stores) The Signet Group – the largest speciality jewellers in the US and Canada, as well as the UK – encompasses the brands H Samuel and Ernest Jones (533 stores in total) in the UK. In 1949 Ernest Jones had one shop on Oxford Street, London; in January this year it had 196 stores. The first H Samuel store opened in Preston in 1890. Between them they cover the middle and middle-toupper end of the market, selling fine jewellery and major watch brands. Leicester-based Aurum has three brands in its portfolio – Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland. The group was established in 2007 and with 138 retail outlets is the largest global distributor of luxury brands and the UK's largest distributor for Rolex, Cartier and Breitling. Goldsmiths opened its first store in Newcastle in 1778 and is on the same site today; there is a Goldsmiths showroom in every major city in the UK, as well as four in Northern Ireland.

A Royal Warrant holder since 1897, Mappin & Webb has a heritage of silver craftsmanship and combines that with traditional and contemporary design fine jewellery and luxury timepieces. With a flagship in Regent Street there are 13 showrooms in other UK locations, including Heathrow and Gleneagles. Watches of Switzerland – founded three-quarters of a century ago – has 16 showrooms across the UK, as well as the new Regent Street flagship. Over three floors, it’s Europe’s largest showroom devoted to luxury watches.

Medium-sized multiples (50-124 stores) The UK’s two largest independent, family-run and owned multiple groups are F Hinds, with 114 stores across England and Wales, and Beaverbrooks with 67. In 2006 F Hinds, whose director Andrew Hinds is sixth generation, celebrated 150 years in business. In 1825 Joseph Hinds opened a clockmaker’s shop in Stamford. He was joined by his son George,

a watchmaker, who opened a shop in London. By the turn of the century, Joseph’s son William and then his grandsons steered the business; post WWI brothers Frank and William Jnr split the company into six shops each, the latter diversifying sufficiently to start a film-making company – Hammer Productions! Frank’s sons Eric and Roy (Andrew’s father) followed into the business. Beaverbrooks began in 1919 in Belfast – Adlestone brothers, Isaac, Harry and Maurice, expanded a small chain of jewellery shops from Northern Ireland to the north of England. In the 1940s the company grew again as two nephews, Percy and Sydney Brown, each with a jewellery shop, joined the family business. The combined stores were renamed Beaverbrooks, after the renowned politician Lord Beaverbrook. Today’s chairman is Mark Adlestone (grandson of Isaac), while Anna Blackburn has recently become the first female (and non-family member) to hold the post of CEO of this award-winning employer.

Large independents Fraser Hart, which currently has 37 stores nationwide, began trading in 1936 when Fred Hill opened a jewellery store in Glasgow. Today the business specialises in fine jewellery (including wedding and engagement rings) and is also a stockist of premium watch brands and fashion branded jewellery. Chapelle Jewellery is the trading name of the largest specialist designer outlet jewellery business. Directors Margaret and Paul Mortimer have a combined experience of 50 years in jewellery manufacturing and retailing and

the 24 stores offer value for money by offering end-of-line and previous season products (including watches). Another family-run business, TH Baker, was founded in the West Midlands in 1888 by Thomas Henry Baker. Today the 23 shops (including Pandora stores), are run by his great great grandsons Phillip and Andrew Higgs and the company has expanded into the South of England. Chisholm Hunter began in 1857 as a store of ’10,000 Wonders’ in Glasgow. Today the leading diamond merchant has 21 stores across Scotland, and, in more recent times, England, selling also fine gemstone and fashion jewellery and watches. It was taken over by gemmologist Harry Brown and his wife Tracey 27 years ago, when it had a single store.

Mid-sized and small, multi-branch independents This sector of the retail membership is a sizeable one and with 12 branches in the north east of England, Market Cross Jewellers (established in Guisborough in 1980) is one of the largest, just pipped by Fields, a wholly Irish-owned company with over 30 years in jewellery retailing, which has 14 stores across Ireland. Established in 1830, pawnbrokers Fish Brothers has 10 branches in London, Essex and Middlesex, as well as Charles Fish jewellery and watch boutiques in Canary Wharf, Chelmsford and Harlow. And hot on their heels is Claybrooks, a family-run chain of 12 jewellers/pawnbrokers across the south east of England, founded by a Hatton Garden-trained diamond setter in 1991.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 33

RETAIL MEMBERSHIP

Now in its second generation, Ashbourne-based CW Sellors has 30 years’ experience in jewellery retail and manufacture and nine showrooms across the Midlands and north of England. From its workshops it creates collections, with British stones Whitby jet and Blue John a speciality. Jewellers and pawnbrokers TM Sutton, (est. 1770), joined with Robertsons (est. 1797) in 2006 to become Suttons & Robertsons and in 2010 became part of DFC Global Corp. As well as four London shops, there is a branch each in Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool and St Albans. Berry’s, with a heritage that goes back to 1897, has eight branches across the north of England, plus Nottingham and Windsor. The Manchester-based Burn’s Group also has eight stores, including two Pilgrim outlet stores and a Swarovski boutique. Established in 1798 in Liverpool as Boodle & Dunthorne, the store became

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Mallard Pawnbrokers & Jewellers (seven branches across the south east and Midlands).

One- and two-branch independents There are certainly too many jewellery retailers with one or two shops to list here – this sector makes up the largest category of retail membership. Businesses can vary tremendously, from the very traditional to the quirky or contemporary – both in terms of stock carried and the interior décor. Some limit their inventory to ownbrand, fine jewellery (particularly wedding and engagement rings), produced themselves or bought-in as complete or as mounts ready to be set. Offering a bespoke service is key to many businesses. Catering to a specific market, there are retailers offering mainly antique pieces (Bentley & Skinner, Wartski and Susannah Lovis for

price levels) are an increasingly important category for most stores. Tapping into the younger, fashion-led market, more and more jewellers are carrying branded collections – sometimes operating from a separate outlet for the sake of differentiation.

Galleries There is no clear-cut definition of a gallery, however, for the sake of argument, it might be described as a stockist of crafts and/or gifting items, as well as jewellery. It may carry collections by different designer makers, often on a saleor-return or commission-plus-rent basis. It’s a system that works well for both parties – the gallery owner doesn’t have to invest in large quantities of stock and the designers can sell limited-run pieces at a retail price that allows reasonable margins. Award-winning Johnny Rocket combining his opulent boutique with his own workshop; Marisa Arna (including her own and other British designers’ jewellery) and Element Jewellery in Hebden Bridge are three quite different examples.

Designer-makers

Boodles in 2004 and a Bond Street shop opened in 2005 – seven stand-alone stores joining shops in Harrods and The Savoy.

example) or pearls (such as Cellini in Cambridge). Meanwhile Cred (Chichester) is renowned for being the original Fairtrade jeweller.

There are too many independent jewellery retailers with between five and nine branches to name them all, but notable examples include: Glasgow-based Rox (three in Glagow and one each in Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Newcastle and Leeds), Swag Jewellers (six in the south, as well as Burrells in Tunbridge Wells and almost too many Pandora stores to count!), Mococo (six branches in the north west, plus a Pandora store), and

Although not as prevalent as it once was, a number of jewellery retailers offer silverware, pens and gifts. The category is enjoying a tentative comeback, with other accessories – like small leather goods, scarves and even fragrance – added to the mix.

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A growing number of jewellers carry designer collections (such as Fei Liu, SHO, Sarah Jordan, Shaun Leane, Rachel Galley, Andrew Geoghegan etc). Watches (at all

Berry’s Jewellers

While many designer makers operate from anonymous workshops, working on private commissions, a growing number have opted to open their own customer-facing shops/studios. With all the creative energy at their disposal (and quite often – though not always – without limitless funds), these boutiques are invariably inspirational and fascinating, in terms of décor as well as jewellery. Harriet Kelsall, William Cheshire, Alexis Dove, James Newman, Sheila Fleet, Jon Dibben, Charmian Beaton, Lily Hastedt, Diana Porter, Dower & Hall, Heather Scott, Kathryn Arbon and Stephen Einhorn are just a few of the many.

Auction Houses and pawnbrokers Buying at auction is another option for jewellery and watch hunters and counted among our members is Fellows & Sons in Birmingham’s

Jewellery Quarter, which holds around 50 jewellery and watch sales a year and Christie’s of Bond Street London. As well as jewellers who also offer financial services (such as Rex Johnson, Birmingham; Hallmark, the Wirral and Jade Jewellers, Fleetwood), the membership also includes a number of renowned pawnbroking businesses, among them: Gold & Gems, Peterborough; Milton, Liverpool; Attenborough Jewels, London and Mays, Manchester.

On-line-only stores While very many bricks and mortar stores are also successful e-tailers, the membership also includes a growing number of on-line-only jewellery and jewellery/watch shops. These include: 77diamonds (offering consultations in its London showroom), 1791diamonds, ASRGems, Bondsthejewellers, chainsofgold, Goldsmiths Online (t/a thejewellerycompany.com), Hattonbydesign, Hattongardengems, Jewelstreet (a marketplace for established jewellery designers), Kingsbylondon (ethically sourced jewellery and diamonds), Sevenfifty and Thediamondstore.

TV shopping Just as consumers are happy to buy jewellery online, so the trend for shopping via TV remains popular. The membership includes: UKbased, family-run The Genuine Gemstone Company (the parent company of Gempora, Gems TV and Rocks TV – BJA’s E-Tailer of the Year 2014), QVC (over 7,000 pieces of fine and fashion jewellery); Rocks and Co (classic and contemporary fine jewellery) and The Jewellery Channel (valuefor-money fine jewellery).

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MEMBER BENEFITS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Membership Benefits and Services 2015 Being a member of the newly-formed NAJ brings with it numerous advantages – described and discussed elsewhere in this issue. Standing alongside the intangibles such as support, reputation and credibility, are very many other real commercial benefits from education and training, to legal advice and networking opportunities. The unification of the two associations means that the roll call of

invaluable services is longer and broader than ever. Once the formalities of creating the new association are completed, by January 2016, all members will have access to all the benefits available. In the meantime we outline here the services, schemes, systems and products that are currently available to the two separate memberships.

N.A.G. member benefits

Equifax provides help with electronic ID verification, credit risk, affordability, fraud prevention and compliance, significantly reducing ‘walkaways’ and providing access to 450 million financial records for a clear picture of credit worthiness.

Financial Insurance Replacement Scheme – Ensure is designed to secure insurance replacement work for our members and provide members with a whole new income stream. The Loyalty Card, which is tailored to your store but will work the same for each outlet. The card can be filled out everytime the customer spends a pound instore: one point for every pound spent. Suggestions for rewards could be related to ‘service’ – maybe cleaning jewellery or watch battery replacements. However this will be up to you to manage and decide. The scheme will help you build your customer base through loyalty and know more about your customers than ever before. You can acknowledge birthdays, anniversaries, offer special promotions at certain times and even drive products for special occassions. In a marketplace where credit is widely available, we recognize that members need to offer a scheme for their needs. With Pay4later and V12, our exclusive offerings from both suppliers, enable Association members to offer financial support to customers, including interestfree credit, improving your prospects for upselling. We have negotiated exclusive member rates with Worldpay, the UK’s largest provider of card payment processing, including terminal and interactive online payment portal solutions. This provides access for your business to global markets and card payment expertise that can impact directly on your bottom line.

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Pawnbroking. Pawnbroking is an area that many retailers would like to get into but the barriers to entry can often act as a deterrent. Fundingsecure’s scheme makes it easier for members to break into pawnbroking to generate a whole new income stream. It’s an exciting new take on pawnbroking allowing any store to set up pawnbroking services without the capital outlay or an FCA licence. The scheme works by the jeweller valuing an item and informing the borrower of the maximum loan amount (70 per cent of trade value). The cost of borrowing is then explained to the customer who decides whether to proceed.

Security One of the inescapable facts about the jewellery industry is the high value of the merchandise you’re working with, which makes security one of the most important considerations for any jewellery industry professional. But of course it’s not just about securing your stock… it’s about securing the very future of your business. Our exclusive member benefits can help you do just that: The Association is the distributor for Skyguard whose MySOS personal safety device, incorporating the very latest GPS and GPRS technologies, is the smallest device on the market (the size of an alarm fob) for lone worker protection. It can can record your location,

One of our key membership benefits, is our legal helpline – free to all members offering advice on any legal matter 24 hours a day. send assistance, call a designated number and act as a two-way radio. Elelock Systems offers market-leading electronic locking solutions for small enclosure security including the memo diamond motion system, specifically developed for the jewellery and watch market. Elelock’s PS lock system can fit in any cabinet or drawer. Elelock also offers substantial discounts for the security of N.A.G. members. Having thwarted no less than 26 retail jewellery robberies in the past three years, Fog Bandit is a highly sophisticated security system that makes your staff, and your stock, invisible to any criminal targeting your store. Our members can exclusively benefit from a free survey, risk assessment and live activation test. Fog Bandit’s aim is to communicate a clear deterrent message to the criminal fraternity, that targeting premises with a Fog Bandit system installed, is a fruitless exercise and heightens the likelihood of being caught. Strandna’s state-of-the-art door security systems (including the Chain Reaction DNA device which sounds an alarm and sprays intruders with a forensic marker) provide a unique deterrent to potential jewellery thieves. Once again, N.A.G. members can benefit from significant discounts off the SRP. TSI’s PROSYNC security locking for safes and doors can be retrofitted to any safe, reducing the need to replace keys, service old locks and remember combinations. It also enables you to remove users when an employee leaves the business. Brink’s offers Association members special rates for moving goods in the UK and overseas. Its

import service also allows you to bring goods into the UK, have them hallmarked and delivered to your door. Meanwhile, the invaluable SaferGems initiative helps combat crime against those in the jewellery industry, by keeping all those who signup for the Alerts up-to-date with the very latest criminal activity and enabling them to keep an eye out for stolen goods.

Stores and Staff Your store and the staff who work in it are, obviously, the most important part of your business. Our special member benefits can help you ensure both work as hard as possible to maximise the potential of your business. One of our key membership benefits, is our legal helpline – free to all members offering advice on any legal matter 24 hours a day. As well as providing customers with comprehensive on-site training and helpdesk support, Bransom Retail Systems is offering new member customers special packages of its bsmart Stock & EPoS system, each including a free starter pack of tickets and till/receipt rolls, pre-printed with a Kimberley Process statement on the reverse. This starter-pack will also include a free place at one of Bransom’s popular workshop sessions, which enhance the usual training by focussing more closely on staff getting the most out of individual software modules such as customer marketing, accounts, repairs and stock control. Bransom also sponsors the JET 1 education awards as well as numerous conferences throughout the year. To find out more, members can register to join the Bransom mailing list at www.bransom.co.uk, or emailsales@bransom.co.uk. Wirehouse provides a comprehensive employment law and H&S service, including the writing of contracts and systems. PJH solicitors, our partner for all legal services, comes highly recommended for its friendly, sound advice on any business or personal issue.

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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 37

MEMBER BENEFITS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

A great benefit that you should be offering your employees, Edenred is a unique childcare voucher scheme that helps working parents to cope and we have selected WPA Health Insurance as our health insurance partner because of the unbeatable value and excellence of its service. Storecheckers. There’s no mystery about the success of one of the UK’s leading mystery shopping, market research and training providers. It really is the best way to gain objective insights into how the world views your store and your staff. LSI Utility Brokers offers members an exclusive free assessment of energy procurement needs to help you power your business for less. Cover the cost of membership, and more, at a stroke!

It really is the best way to gain objective insights into how the world views your store and your staff.

Repairs Repairs is a service that no retail jeweller can afford to ignore. Our repairs partners Maker Mends and Outwork Jewellery Services make it easy to develop repairs as a highly profitable income stream. Both organisations offer CAD design and can offer innovative services to add to your business portfolio. Maker Mends is the largest jewellery repairs company in Europe with the most sophisticated tracking system in the industry and offers association members an exclusive discount on any work undertaken. Outwork Jewellery Services is based in the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham and can offer your business a tailored service. No job is too small and it too offers an exclusive discount to Association members.

Insurance TH March offers specialist bespoke insurance and financial planning for the jewellery industry. As a jewellery industry specialist and a great contributor to the Association, TH March offers a comprehensive insurance solution for the jewellery trade. from March Guard insurance at point of sale to Jewellers’ Block insurance, TH March can cover it all.

Education & Training Display Lighting offers members an exclusive free lighting design survey plus a 25 per cent discount off most display lighting ranges. It can even offer advice about a Carbon Trust Interest Free Energy Efficiency Loan Scheme. Magpie offers members special rates on Gemtag products: labels, printers, till rolls and specifically designed tags for use with jewellery and watches. And, as a strong add-on sale, we think Connoisseur’s Jewellery Care products are pretty unbeatable – the growing range ‘takes away the burden of cleaning jewellery, avoiding the need for goods to be returned to manufacturers’. The company sells through retailers only, while its informative website leads consumers to their nearest stockists for the wipes, fluids, cloths etc. Members are offered FOC promotional stock with an opening order as well as a gift for loyalty or brand introduction.

IDEX. An innovative diamond and jewellery trading environment linking diamond merchants and jewellers worldwide. IDEX offers Association members an exclusive 30-day trial before signing up.

As the body responsible for setting the agenda for the retail jewellery industry, the Association has set the pace with its industry-leading JET training courses, enabling your business, and the careers of the people who work in it, to take off. JET is the industry gold standard in training. There are exclusive discounts for members on JET education packages and education and training from our training partners GEM-A, GIA, Birmingham Assay Office, Holts Academy and the National Pawnbrokers Association. There are also special discounts on our Executive Leadership & Development Forum.

Media and marketing

Rewards

The Jeweller magazine is created especially for members, with a readership of 25,000 and packed with industry news, opinion and advice. It’s also the best way for members to make their presence felt in the trade. House Creative is the UK’s only marketing agency dedicated to the retail jewellery sector. Its experience of the sector is unrivalled for developing brand identities, advertising, literature, point of sale and all online communications and it offers special rates to Association members. Visualsoft is a leading web development company, providing website design, development and online marketing services. Visualsoft offers members an exclusive inclusive rate on a website and mobile site package.

The Association’s reward scheme is a free members’ service offering members exclusive lifestyle benefits ranging from discounts on hotels worldwide through to specialist awaydays, many associated with key dates in the UK jewellery calendar.

VM Events offers a range of market-leading visual merchandising solutions to strengthen your brand and give you an eye-catching edge over your competitors.

Travel Our trusted partner Emerald Travel offers our members a bespoke international travel service, for business or pleasure. Included in its offer will be hotels and flights for the international calendar of trade shows. Emerald is IATA and ATOL registered. ➥

38 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

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MEMBER BENEFITS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

BJA member benefits The BJA offers a plethora of services, benefits and discounts to its member firms – too numerous to list in full but here are some of the highlights. Further details about what is offered and information as to how to access these services can be found at www.bja.org.uk

Photography and marketing Members have access to discounted professional photography from specialists who understand the rigours of capturing the sparkle of gemstones and highly polished precious metal surfaces. While ‘Lightworks’ will change members’ ideas into photo-realistic, virtual designs in CAD.

Media A particular BJA speciality is helping members to promote their products and services. To this end all members are automatically listed on its website together with a brief description of their company, photographs and a hyperlink to their own website. This listing dramatically increases their search engine optimisation and is an excellent source of referral for retailers and members of the public seeking particular products. Members are also offered a number of other on-line options designed to raise their profile such as The Association’s Pinterest and Instagram pages, which are themed to special jewellery-giving occasions such as Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Christmas etc. Working through its various service partners the Association also provides access to a range of discounted marketing services. These include the production of one minute video clips for websites available through One Minute Wonders; the chance to communicate with their customers in a cost-effective way using text message through Text Local and access to carefully tailored, industry specific branding advice from specialist consultancy mentoring. A similar service is offered by the branding consultancy Sparkle Marketing while UC4 will create websites and eCommerce platforms and increase Search Engine Optimisation.

Members have access to discounted professional photography from specialists who understand the rigours of capturing the sparkle of gemstones and highly polished metal surfaces... To ensure members’ news stories reach the widest possible audience ‘Press Point’ the Association’s online information point, which is widely promoted to the media, allows members to post their media releases online and provides a tremendous source of information to anyone seeking the latest UK jewellery industry news. Information about many of the stories posted here and news of new products joining the Instagram and Pinterest entries is frequently Tweeted by the Association to its 5,500 followers ensuring widespread distribution. To help connect its members more closely with both the trade and consumer media the Association organises regular ‘Meet the Editor’ events in which members are invited to attend informal question and answer sessions with key journalists. They are also offered discounted advertising rates in some trade publications and advertising opportunities on the BJA website which receives a surprisingly large number of hits from members of the public as well as those in the trade. The news distribution service ‘PR Newswire’ also offers members a substantial discount.

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Member to member offers Members are encouraged to trade with their fellow members by means of special promotions and discounts. This is a completely free service with ‘offers’ being accessible from the website and circulated via the Association by email on a weekly basis. As links build between the two Associations it is believed that this service will grow in popularity to become a real benefit to suppliers and retailers alike. The BJA website also provides a successful recruitment platform with members able to post industry jobs in front of a carefully targeted audience.

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Show stands A particularly popular benefit for exhibitors at major trade exhibitions is the stand space discount members receive at both IJL and TJWS Birmingham/Spring Fair and at Autumn Fair. Other shows offering savings are The Scottish Spring Fair, The British Craft Trade Fair and Giving & Living in Exeter. The Association also works closely with a number of important overseas trade fairs and its export department coordinates governmentsponsored stands for member companies at a number of key international jewellery fairs. Members are entitled to display the association logo on their stand at the events they attend both at home and abroad. The Association’s KickStart stand at IJL, which it organises in conjunction with the show organisers and is now in its seventh year, provides a wellestablished launch pad for new talent entering the industry. All exhibitors are carefully chosen as being ‘show ready’ and are monitored and mentored by The BJA team to ensure a high standard is maintained. Many past KickStarters are now established names within the industry.

Legal business The BJA has long worked closely with several firms of lawyers and patent agents to ensure that its members have access to pertinent and affordable legal advice, not simply in their offices but also face-to-face at the UK’s major trade events where intellectual property disputes frequently first arise. Steeles Law, with offices in London and Norwich, provides a free Legal Helpline where members can access up to 30

minutes of free advice. This firm has particular expertise in the field of employing sales agents, employment law and property matters. The London firm Royds handles all intellectual property matters and has had great success over the years in protecting members from design plagiarism. A great boon to members of all types is the Association’s highly affordable ‘Contract Pack’. This contains the basic structure for a Confidentiality Agreement, a contract between a retailer and a

designer and a contract between a retailer and a manufacturer. Members are also encouraged to use the Association’s ‘Design Deposit Scheme’ whereby their products’ design rights are stored by the Association as a way of establishing ownership in the event of future plagiarism. All patent enquiries and trademark registrations are dealt with by the patent agent Barker Brettell which offers discounted fees to members.

their products’ design rights are stored by the Association as a way of establishing ownership in the event of future plagiarism

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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 41

MEMBER BENEFITS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Awards and competitions For those seeking the limelight, The BJA’s Annual Member Awards offer a range of high profile sponsorship opportunities as well as providing invaluable PR opportunities for the businesses that win the various categories. The event, which takes place this year on 3rd December, is a great networking opportunity and also provides plenty of scope for promotional activities. The BJA also stages a number of competitions every year – generally staged in conjunction with TJWS Birmingham and IJL London. This year the Association has also collaborated with The Fairtrade Organisation to run a competition to design a wedding jewellery suite in Fairtrade metal. This has received a large number of entries and the winner will showcase at IJL. These competitions, which are widely publicised in the trade and wider media, provide tremendous promotional opportunities for winners.

Companies involved in Research and Development projects may well be able to claim back a proportion of the corporation tax from HRMC. Financial The Association provides a number of financial services many of which are offered at specially discounted rates. These include Retail Finance Packages from Pay 4 Later and Afford it Now, a comprehensive foreign exchange service from World First, which protects members from currency fluctuations and Taxback.com which assists those travelling and buying goods overseas to ensure they reclaim all their foreign VAT.

These competitions, which are widely publicised in the trade and wider media, provide tremendous promotional opportunities for winners. Industry know-how A key, central BJA role has always been to provide pertinent information on the latest legislation to affect the industry. Its website offers easy-to-understand downloads across a range of key topics. The most recent addition is a comprehensive guide to Corporate Social Responsibility and how jewellers can introduce the necessary systems to their own businesses. If The BJA team can’t answer your question, it can draw upon a huge range of contacts to find someone who can. Another important legal service comes from Peninsula Business Services which offers BJA members a 24/7 advice service 365 days a year on all types of employment matters. Common issues include redundancy, TUPE regulations, holiday/sick pay, tribunals, employment contracts and Health & Safety compliance. Peninsula’s Legal Services team also provides full representation to achieve the best outcome and its insurance scheme will fund the cost of any awards made against your business.

42 THE JEWELLER

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Companies involved in Research and Development projects may well be able to claim back a proportion of the corporation tax from HRMC. Business Solutions is a specialist in this field and has successfully claimed some £4million on behalf of clients since 2011. It’s surprising what you can save on your utility bills with the help of a specialist in the field. Utilitrack explains how. For those looking to raise funds ‘Funding Circle’ could be the way forward. Members receive preferential rates on their completion fee. Another way to raise funds is through factoring and The Factoring Advisory Service will advance a percentage of funds immediately on sales invoices raised while also taking responsibility for collecting the full invoice amount. The Association offers access to a number of specialist firms which can help you avoid bad debts or, if need-be, assist in collecting them. Members get preferential rates at Equifax, one of the largest sources of business data in the UK, allowing them to check out potential customers prior to doing business with them. If a little pressure is needed Controlaccount Plc, STA International and Lane & Co (commercial debt recovery solicitors) all offer special deals to members. n

il ta 4 Re 01 he s 2 f T ard ro w ne A in m W ste Sy

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INDUSTRY NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

CW Sellors gets jewellery centre go-ahead F

ollowing a six-year project to develop and permit plans for a Jewellery Design Centre of Excellence, the Derbyshire based jewellery manufacturers CW Sellors Fine Jewellery can now begin work on its newly acquired site. Set in the picturesque surroundings of Carsington Water, a few miles from its current headquarters, the company aims to create the UK’s leading jewellery-related visitor attraction. The new development will include open workshops “to influence the education and appreciation surrounding jewellery

manufacturing, as well as a wider understanding for British and worldwide gemstones”. The new centre (which won the support of industry bodies including the N.A.G.) will also offer the opportunity for 21 new and skilled jobs to the area. Chris Sellors, MD, commented: “We are delighted at the decision of the planning committee. [It] has given us a unique opportunity to develop a visitor attraction and educational centre that is not just the envy of the UK, but admired by visitors worldwide and now we must deliver.

Andrew Bone joins RJC part of its ongoing A smanagement restructure, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has appointed Andrew Bone as executive director. In addition to 38 years working in the global diamond industry at De Beers, he was also responsible for the success of many industry initiatives including the Kimberley Process. At RJC, Bone will work closely with the Board of Directors and the management team (including COO Catherine Sproule) to further entrench the

RJC’s value proposition to the jewellery supply chain, mine to retail. With over 640 members, just over 400 certified and a growing number seeking chain of custody (COC) certification for their metals businesses, Bone believes the RJC offers the best available demonstration of solid business practices. James Courage’s extended term as chair of the RJC Board of Directors concluded on the 30th June. Vice-chair, Charles Chaussepied is interim chair as of 1st July 2015 until a new chairperson is elected later this year.

“With Carsington as our base, the Jewellery Design Centre gives us the best chance of a sustainable business which will be multi-faceted in its offering. We have been established for over 35 years and with this exciting new chapter ahead of us, we look forward to increasing our apprenticeships, training and designs facilities, whilst offering workshop visits, exclusive exhibitions of British and worldwide gemstones and an enjoyable retail environment – all in an inspirational setting. We thank everyone for their support,” he added.

A number of companies have achieved RJA Certification in the last two months, including: De Beers Diamond Jewellers, Bulgari, Maker Mends and Monica Vinader, while Cooksongold has achieved re-certification.

Andrew Bone and RJC team

Fei Liu unveils FINE bespoke jewelLERY B

Fei Liu with Helen Dimmick of Geen+Benz and Phil Ainsworth of Ainsworth Jewellers

44 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

irmingham Jewellery quarter-based fine jewellery designer Fei Liu held a party for clients, friends and press in London last month, to celebrate the tenth anniversary of his company. It was also an opportunity to showcase the extravagant, distinctive and intricate bespoke work that is becoming increasingly important to his business; pieces borrowed back from his international clientele. During the evening’s celebrations Fei unveiled a just-published book that explores the designs, inspirations and influences of his bespoke pieces over the past decade. Natural forms and floral motifs in particular have played a key part in his award-winning, ultra feminine designs – along with beautiful gemstones such as tanzanite, jadeite, rubellite, baroque pearls and black and white diamonds.

IJL schedule released

nternational Jewellery London will, as always, offer visitors a comprehensive schedule of seminars, clinics and workshops during the course of the three-day event. Among the subjects covered will be: marketing via social media, hiring staff, how to use data to boost sales, cultured pearls, coloured stones, trends, Fairtrade gold, coloured diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. Jesper Nielson, the CEO of Endless, will speak on ‘Building the world’s next super brand’ and there will, as ever, be several catwalk shows each day.

IJL Editor’s Choice confirmed

he winners of International Jewellery London’s exhibitor competition, Editor’s Choice, have been announced. Recognising jewellery designers and suppliers who demonstrate the most creative and cutting edge jewellery at IJL, the stars of this year’s line-up are Sarah Ho, Cesari Diffusione Di Simone Cesari, Mirka Janeckova Jewellery, Fei Liu, Dower & Hall and Andrew Geoghegan – with Donna by Ruggero Broggian and Flora Bhattachary being highlighted as highly commended. This year’s judges Claire Adler, FT contributor, and event director Sam Willoughby, selected the winners from a range of categories, which included two new categories, ‘Diamonds in Design’ (won by Sarah Ho) to celebrate the show’s Diamond Edition, and ‘In Stile Italiano’, recognising Italian craftsmanship as part of the Italian Market Focus at this year’s event. Shown above is Andrew Geoghegan’s Renaissance ring, which came first in the Technical Excellence group.

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Association members triumph at Jewellery Awards T

he annual UK Jewellery Awards, held last month at the Tower of London saw a number of N.A.G. and BJA members walk away with the coveted gongs. Welsh jewellery brand Clogau (which was also headline sponsor of this year’s glittering event) scooped Jewellery Brand of the Year (above) as well as Bridal Collection of the Year award for its Clogau Compose range of engagement and wedding rings. Other winners included Hugh Rice Jewellers which took home the Independent Retailer of the Year award, while independent Mococo was given the prize for Best Store Environment. Wedding ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth was awarded the Supplier of the Year title and Hockley Mint won the Employer of the Year Award for its commitment to apprenticeships. This year’s new Innovation Award went to manufacturer and supplier Cooksongold for its Direct Metal Laser Sintering technology. And 2015 is turning out to be a good year for Ornella Ianuzzi, who won the Goldsmiths’ Company Award at the recent Goldsmith’s Craftsmanship and Design Competition, and took home the Jewellery Designer of the Year award. Meanwhile, former IJL KickStarter Rosie Sanders won New Designer of the Year. Gemporia was the winner of Etailer of the Year. Among other winners during the glittering evening were: Pippa Small Jewellery (Ethical Jewellery Business of the Year), Citizen (Watch Brand), Watchfinder (Watch Retailer), Silver Tree Jewellers (Branded Jewellery retailer) and Victoria Highfield (Bridal Jewellery Retailer).

Catherine Jones acquires jewellery manufacturing business jewellery retailer Catherine Jones has acquired the German design and manufacturing C ambridge-based company Becker Design. As a well-established independent retail jeweller since 1963, this consolidates the company’s move into manufacturing its own product. Catherine Jones worked closely with Becker for many years but in recent times, the company contracted. Even so, it continued to supply the store, with a range of fine pieces set with diamonds or unusually cut coloured stones, or with silver and gold pieces with a finish that is unique to Becker Design. “The opportunity of making the acquisition came a few months ago when I learned that Rolf Becker had decided to retire completely,” explains Catherine Jones’ MD Vanessa Burkitt. “I asked what would happen to the models and his designs. That’s when talks began. The catalogue is extensive, so we see scope for the development of new lines and fresh collections.” The first pieces, created in Pfozheim with the master goldsmith from Becker Design in charge, were unveiled earlier this month at a launch party in the Cambridge store. Initially the jewellery will be sold by Catherine Jones but preliminary contact has been made with retailers who bought Becker Design jewellery and sold it successfully over many years. In addition, Burkitt is keen to bring the skills that the master jeweller has to the UK. “The finishes Becker created are exclusive and its methods and techniques are jealously protected. We are exploring how we can work with an apprentice and send that individual to work with Hans-Jorg Hummel in Germany to learn his secrets,” she says.

Hockley Mint appointment

irmingham-based jewellery company Hockley Mint has appointed Judith Lockhart as its new sales director. She will take on the post to run alongside her existing role as MD of You Fine Jewellery, a company set up to distribute and manufacture Arctic Circle Diamonds with Hockley Mint’s MD Gary Wroe. A new website is due to be launched this summer, which will provide an update on the services and products that Hockley Mint provides.

Harry Levy receives special Award the UK Jewellery D uring Awards, The prestigious Outstanding Contribution to the Industry Award went to London Diamond Bourse president Harry Levy who was recognised for his 50 plus-year career in the industry, which has included numerous key positions of office as well as the setting up of his own gemstone business. During his acceptance speech Mr Levy told the audience that the most important event that had occurred in the past few years was “the marriage of the N.A.G. and the BJA that “should have come about many years ago. In my days as chairman of the BJA we flirted, never became engaged, but now we are at last together.”

New date for Gem-A AGM

ollowing the last-minute cancellation of its AGM in June, the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) has rescheduled the meeting for 6pm on 29th July, to be held at The Crypt, 14 Ely Place, London EC1. In addition to receiving accounts and reports for 2014/15, the business of the meeting will include an explanation by the Council for its recent actions and governance of Gem-A. This is in response to a petition calling for an EGM for Gem-A, signed by 178 members, with a number of issues raised. This year there will be contested elections for the available places on the Council, a number of members having already been nominated for election by other members. Gem-A members are urged to attend this important meeting or vote by proxy if unable to be there in person.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 45

The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005 The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like-minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.

“

Just arrived home (from Congress) and wanted to thank you for organising a fantastic day. We have taken away lots of ideas and certainly some food for thought… thoroughly enjoyed it and so glad I joined EDF last year – it has been

”

of great benefit to me personally and our business.

For an annual subscription of £850 you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the EDF Members via: • a Q&A forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance on products, policy, or suppliers. You ask the question and the members answer, quite often by return • a new flash service, where relevant business and industry articles are emailed to your inbox • a shared monthly performance report that enables you to benchmark yourself against other retail jewellery businesses • educational store visits which allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing in their stores • three regional group meetings a year giving you the opportunity to discuss in detail the issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face, as well as develop new business skills • the opportunity to attend the annual Oxford Congress when members meet to make new contacts and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields

EDF member

CONGRESS 2015 SCORES 9 OUT OF 10 Delegate exit feedback gleaned from 25 questions covering everything from timings, the coffee queue, individual speakers and value to you and your business, averaged 9.0 up from last year’s 8.3. Here’s what some of the independent jewellery retailers had to say about the day:

“ Thanks for organising a great conference, a really wonderful intro to the EDF” “Brilliant speakers – lots of stuff to bring home and act on!” “Thank you for a brilliant day. Great to hear awesome speakers and meet other members, and share our experiences.” “ Thank you for an interesting and informative Congress. The speakers were great and it was good to meet more members.” “ Thank you so much for organising a very rich and rewarding conference. IMHO the best Congress yet! We thoroughly enjoyed it and have taken away many new ideas. Thanks to everyone for your company.” “We came away bouncing with ideas…” “ We are sure many of the talks will feed back into improvements for the business.” “ The speakers were not selling themselves too hard and I have a longer-than-three list of things to affect!”

If you would like any further information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer on 020 7613 4445, email her at amanda.white@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122.

INDUSTRY NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Laing Edinburgh to make £1.3m move Laing OBE, chairman of Laing Edinburgh, Scotland’s oldest M ichael family jeweller, is preparing to fulfil a lifelong dream as one of his stores makes a £1.3m move to a prime location on the capital city’s exclusive George Street. The store, which is celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, has agreed terms to move into the corner site, formerly occupied by Barclays Bank. Refurbishment of the new flagship showroom will begin this August; the second Laing Edinburgh showroom in Frederick Street will remain in its current location following the move. “We have been looking for the right location on George Street for many years now, but suitable properties don’t often come onto the market,” explains Michael Laing OBE, chairman and owner. “Most of the Georgian buildings have narrow shop fronts, while we needed a property with more presence, greater window space to display our luxury brands and diamond collections and give our customers more opportunity to browse.”

S N I P P E T S Lord Digby Jones to speak at Jewellery Conference Eminent British businessman and politician, Lord Digby Jones is this year’s keynote speaker at the UK Jewellery Conference, from the 6th-7th October 2015, open to all CMJ members and CMJapproved suppliers. The two-day event will take place, for the first time, at the East Midlands Conference Centre. Lord Digby Jones, an active House of Lords crossbencher will be sharing insights from his business career that covers time at the CBI and 20 years with Birmingham-based lawyers Edge & Ellison. He is also a Guardian at Assay Office Birmingham.

Professional Goldsmiths hosts dinner

Gecko’s open days F

ashion jewellery brand Gecko, which is owned by Birminghambased The WB Creative Group, hosted its first-ever open days for customers and press. Held at the company’s Witham, HQ and distribution centre, the occasion was an opportunity to show-off the mechanics of processing orders – a virtually foolproof set of manual and high-tech systems to deal with the tens of thousands of SKUs available. Guests were also able to view all the collections in the pop-up showroom, and hear about the new trends from designer Hannah Trickett – as well as enjoy Pimms and a BBQ in the sunshine. Among attendees were Plants the Jewellers, Heasmans, Osbourne Jewellers and Creaseys. Visitors heard about Gecko’s commitment to quality and ethical trading from Fiona Pluck, head of quality control. She explained the very many processes, checks and tests involved at every stage of production that ensure every requirement is met, to ultimately ensure increased customer satisfaction and repeat business. She also outlined how Gecko maintains its reputation as an ethical business.

Andrew Morton, MD, talks distribution to Gecko guests

Bell & Ross opens UK boutique

he French watch brand Bell & Ross, renowned for its distinctive aviation watches, opened a shop in London’s Burlington Arcade last month. It’s the first Bell & Ross shop to be owned and operated by the brand itself and the first in the UK. The company already has 13 stores around the world that are operated in partnership with existing retailers.

On 22nd May the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths held its Annual Dinner at Founders Hall. The principle guest was John Benjamin, of the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow. The dinner was followed by John’s talk about his career and work, with some fascinating stories and experiences. This was complemented by Port sponsored by Harvey Sillis FIPG.

UK sales director for Italian jewellery brand Sam McDermid, previously heading up sales at Bouton, has been appointed as sales director for the Italian silver and costume jewellery brand Rebecca. Hand-made in Empoli, Italy, Rebecca is distributed to 30-plus countries and has enjoyed great success in Ireland over the past 20 months. Parent company Industrie Testi was founded in 1998 and also makes private label jewellery for globally-renowned luxury houses. The Rebecca collection revolve around bronze, steel and Swarovski Elements as well as gold, silver and diamonds.

Jacob’s design competition winners Independent Reading jeweller Jacobs the Jewellers and The Bishopsland Educational Trust – a jewellery design postgraduate course based in South Oxfordshire, have announced the winners of their first ever Young Designer Competition. The public was asked to vote on the best designs submitted by eight young local designers and Dominic Simon was the winner of the Best Jewellery design, with an 18ct gold slotted ring, and Loucinda Nims won Best Silver Object design, with a pair of whiskey tumblers. Each designer was given a framed presentation certificate and £500 worth of vouchers to spend on tools or materials courtesy of HS Walsh.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 47

INDUSTRY NEWS

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Theo Fennell RCA winners jeweller Theo Fennell will once again be showcasing the B ritish designs of students who were winners in the Royal College of Art’s annual awards. The award for Overall Excellence was given to Carrie Dickens who was one of five graduating students on the Metalwork and Jewellery MA programme who were chosen by the panel of judges (Fennell, Vogue jewellery editor Carol Woolton and design critic Stephen Bayley) for their exceptional work. As well as a cash prize, the students received a silver Pavilion Dish, hand-crafted in Fennell’s workshop.

Forevermark launches in UK

he HRA Group has announced the launch of Forevermark in the UK and Ireland as part of the global expansion of the brand. The Canadian business is one of a small group of diamantaires chosen by De Beers to manufacture diamonds for its premium Forevermark brand. Less than one per cent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to become a Forevermark diamond. Each such diamond is inscribed with the brand’s icon and individual number – made using De Beers’ bespoke technology and invisible to the naked eye. Just 1/20th of a micron deep it can be seen using a special Forevermark viewer held by authorised jewellers. The integrated marketing campaign will convey the brand’s “passionate pursuit of the world’s most beautiful and responsibly sourced diamonds – going beyond the four Cs.”

Joanna Lumley receives brooch

eremy France Jewellers of Winchester has presented actress Joanna Lumley with a bespoke brooch to mark the 200th anniversary of the United Kingdom’s Brigade of Gurkhas. Owner Jeremy France (who spent many of his teenage years in Nepal) was invited to present the brooch at an exclusive black tie evening at Her Majesty’s Palace and Fortress of London, which was organised in collaboration with the Queen’s Own Gurkha Logistic Regiment Charitable Trust. The brooch was designed and manufactured by Jeremy France’s team of in-house designers and goldsmiths, and was inspired by the Gurkha Regiment cap badge. Bearing the notorious Gurkha kukri knives, the Royal Cypher and the circular laurel wreath, the brooch is mounted in solid silver and 9ct yellow gold and set with 0.50ct of diamonds. France and his team will continue to give their support to the Gurkhas, particularly in response to the Nepal Earthquake Response Fund, which they have actively supported.

E-shop Jonathan Lambert

uffolk based independent retailer, Jonathan Lambert, has launched its first transactional website. Managing director, Yasmin Moss, said that the initial brief was not only to enable the business to sell on-line but also to promote the company’s bespoke service, which has grown exponentially over the last five years. “We are very confident that the new site will help to increase sales for the business and also form a major part of our new marketing initiative for 2015 which has already started to pay dividends,” she commented. The new site will feature jewellery from brands such as Links of London, Hot Diamonds, Diamonfire and Kit Heath, and watches from Tissot, Citizen and Eterna as well as showcasing the new Jonathan Lambert Collection which ranges from silver jewellery to certificated diamonds.

48 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

S N I P P E T S Swico gets Paul Smith watch license This August will see the launch of the new Paul Smith watch collection, which will be distributed by Swico which has been granted the license for the UK and Europe. Keith Sheppard, Swico’s CEO has set up AFH Distribution to handle the business in the UK. The initial 38-piece collection takes inspiration from the designer’s love of contemporary, minimal design, but with an unexpected twist and plenty of personality.

Major gem collection goes on sale Hundreds of pure unheated and untreated precious gemstones, from one of Europe’s largest private collections, are to be sold in a multi-million pound, international online auction offering. Sourced directly from mines in Burma, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Zambia, the featured stones include 198 emeralds, 279 rubies, 23 rare rubellites, 14 zultanites plus sapphires, pink sapphires and a very rare 133 carat tanzanite stone. The sale will be held over three dates this Autumn/Winter by John Pye Luxury Assets, a division of John Pye Auctions.

First Med Gem Conference success The first Mediterranean Gem & Jewellery Conference, held in Athens last month, was a great success, according to Adrian Smith FGA, FIRV, the founder of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers, a co-organiser. Around 50 delegates attended, including retailers, academics, valuers, gem dealers and synthetic diamond manufacturers, from Europe, Asia, Americas and Oceania. Subjects covered included: pearls, rubies from Burma and Mozambique, synthetic diamond melee, HTTP and CVD-grown diamonds and new gemmological instruments.

Board changes at Houlden Group Helen Haddow has been appointed as CEO of the Houlden Group from January 2016. The move follows a long-standing career with the Group and her appointment to the board in 2012. Board directors have been assigned functional responsibility to support the new management structure. Chris Carry of Jamieson & Carry oversees buying, Keith Gill of Robert Gatward takes on membership, Ashley Pugh of W Bruford heads up business development, and Patrick Keane of Keanes Jewellers will be responsible for training. Stuart Laing will continue to manage marketing for the group in his role of chairman of the Board, until his retirement in June 2017.

SEPTEMBER

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

135,000 square metres gross exhibition space Almost 3,700 exhibitors from 49 countries & regions Over 59,000 buyers from all over the world Over

Theme Pavilion Highlights: The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts over 70 internationally renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and vintage jewellery and exclusive one-offs from around the world. The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s finest loose Hall 2 diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Over 502號展覽館 esteemed exhibitors from around world will a variety of loose gems of the highest 9 Halls 9 & 11theHall Halls display 5&7 9及11號展覽館 9號展覽館 5及7號展覽館 quality. Hall 1 Airport Express 機場快線

Hall 11 11號展覽館

Grand Foyer 大會堂前廳

1號展覽館

The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect setting to Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10 3, 6, 8及10號展覽館 show what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features over 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces. Hall 5D 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 3E 大堂

Hall 2

2號展覽館

Hall 5E Halls 5F & 5G The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER features over 70 展覽廳 5E PAVILION 展覽廳 5F 及 5G prestigious international jewellery companies presenting prominent Halls 3F & 3G 展覽廳 3F 及 3G jewellery brands and their latestHallscollections. 1D & 1E Convention Hall

Grand Foyer 大會堂前廳

Hall 1

Halls 5B & 5C 展覽廳 5B及5C

Grand Hall 大會堂

Mezzanine 4 大堂中樓 4

Hall 1 Concourse 展覽廳1大堂機場快線

1號展覽館

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4 君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

Halls 3B & 3C 展覽廳 3B 及 3C Mezzanine 2 大堂中樓 2

Halls 3C, 3D & 3E 展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C 展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

會議廳

Harbour Road

2號展覽館 Entrance

Expo Drive Entrance 博覽道入口

大會堂前廳

港灣道入口

Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues: 包裝、工具及設備

鑽石

9及11號展覽館

11號展覽館

寶石精品館

鑽石

5及7號展覽館

9號展覽館

珍珠

AsiaWorld-Expo

1號展覽館 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

• Gemstones • Diamonds • Pearls • Packaging, Tools & Equipment • Fine Gem Pavilion

• Hong Kong Pavilion • Bridal Jewellery Pavilion NEW! • Hong Kong Premier Pavilion • International Fine Jewellery • International Premier Pavilion • Antique & Vintage Jewellery 珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件純銀首飾 • Fine Design Pavilion • Asian Fine Jewellery • Designer Arena • Silver Jewellery 婚嫁首飾 • Jadeite Gallery • Jewellery Accessories 純銀首飾亞洲珠寶首飾 • Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery 純銀首飾設計師創意廊

寶石

3, 6, 8及10號展覽館

展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 5E

展覽廳 3E 大堂

2號展覽館

展覽廳 5B及5C

大會堂前廳

AsiaWorld-Expo

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

珠寶精品館

大堂中樓 4

大會堂

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

國際藝粹館

香港館

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

名貴珠寶首飾大堂中樓 2 Airport Express 展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C 翡翠廊展覽廳1大堂 Packaging, Fine Gem Tools & 博覽道入口 Diamonds Pavilion Equipment Halls 9 &11

1號展覽館

Hall 9

Hall 11

Hall 2

香港藝粹館

香港館

珍珠

古董及古典首飾

Grand Foyer

會議廳

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

Diamonds

港灣道入口

Halls 5 & 7

Pearls

Hall 1

Gemstones

Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

Silver Jewellery Hall 5D

Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery, Finished Jewellery & Jewellery Accessories

Hall 5E

Bridal Jewellery Pavilion Hall 3E Concourse

Silver Jewellery Hall 2

Grand Foyer

Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4 International Premier Pavilion

Grand Hall

機場快線

Halls 3B & 3C

Fine Jewellery

Pearls Hall 1

包裝、工具 Jadeite Gallery 及設備 11號展覽館

Asian Fine Jewellery

Halls 5B & 5C

Fine Design Pavilion

Hall 1 Concourse 鑽石

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C

精品館

9及11號展覽館 Expo 9號展覽館 Drive Entrance

Halls 5F & 5G

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4

Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 3C, 3D & 3E

Mezzanine 2

Hong 寶石Kong Pavilion

Designer Arena

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E

鑽石

5及7號展覽館

International Fine Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G 2號展覽館 Antique & Vintage Jewellery Harbour Road Entrance

Convention Hall

珍珠

1號展覽館

寶石

3, 6, 8及10號展覽館

純銀首飾展覽廳 5D

珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件展覽廳 5E

大會堂前廳

The

WORLD’S NUMBER ONE Fine Jewellery Event Hall 5D 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 3E 大堂

Halls 5B & 5C 展覽廳 5B及5C

Grand Hall 大會堂

Hall 5E 展覽廳 5E

Mezzanine 4 大堂中樓 4

Halls 3B & 3C 展覽廳 3B 及 3C Mezzanine 2 大堂中樓 2

Hall 1 Concourse 展覽廳1大堂

Halls 5F & 5G 展覽廳 5F 及 5G

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4 君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

Halls 3F & 3G 展覽廳 3F 及 3G

Halls 3C, 3D & 3E 展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

Halls 1D & 1E 展覽廳 1D 及 1E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C 展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件

純銀首飾展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 5E

SEPTEMBER

婚嫁首飾展覽廳 3E 大堂

純銀首飾

亞洲珠寶首飾

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 展覽廳 5B及5C

珠寶精品館大會堂

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

純銀首飾國際藝粹館

展覽廳1大堂

設計師創意廊

大堂中樓 4

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

名貴珠寶首飾

翡翠廊

Convention Hall 會議廳

Harbour Road Entrance 港灣道入口

Expo Drive Entrance 博覽道入口

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

香港館

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

大堂中樓 2

16 - 20 September 2015 香港館

香港藝粹館

展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

古董及古典首飾會議廳

港灣道入口

博覽道入口

AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging

18 - 22 September 2015

Hong Kong Convention & Pearl Exhibition Centre Silver Jewellery Jewellery, Silver Jewellery,

Finished Jewellery & Jewellery Accessories

Fine Finished Jewellery Hall 5D

Hall 3E Concourse

Silver Jewellery Fine Design Pavilion Grand Hall

Halls 3B & 3C

Fine Jewellery

adeite Gallery

Asian Fine Jewellery

Halls 5B & 5C

Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4 International Premier Pavilion Mezzanine 2

Hong Kong Pavilion

Designer Arena

Halls 5F & 5G

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4

Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 3C, 3D & 3E

International Fine Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G

Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C

Hall 1 Concourse

Expo Drive Entrance

純銀首飾

展覽廳 5E

婚嫁首飾

UBM Asia Ltd

展覽廳 3E 大堂

純銀首飾

Tel: (852) 2585 6127 純銀首飾 Fax:國際藝粹館 (852) 3749 7344 香港館 Email: visitjgf-hk@ubm.com 名貴珠寶首飾

亞洲珠寶首飾

展覽廳 5B及5C

大會堂

大堂中樓 4

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

Convention Hall

Harbour Road Entrance

珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件

展覽廳 5D

珠寶精品館

Hall 5E

Bridal Jewellery Pavilion

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

設計師創意廊

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

大堂中樓 2

翡翠廊

香港館

展覽廳1大堂

展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

香港藝粹館

古董及古典首飾

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com 博覽道入口

港灣道入口

會議廳

OPINION

UNIFICATION ISSUE

- waxing-

Brazilian John Henn has returned from the CIBJO Congress in Brazil with the first of his two reports on the events over the three days.

o, here I am with CIBJO, in a massive city I’d never heard of – Salvador in the north east of the country – to keep an eye on any proposed legislation that may affect us in the UK jewellery industry. I feel I know all about this country after the 11-hour plus flight; I was sitting next to a promising lady who told me everything. Like how lucky we in the UK are that our government is so well-behaved. Hers, on the other hand, was just dealing with the revelation that they built last year’s World Cup stadia out of the state teachers’ pension fund. A three-hour stop over in San Paulo, another flight, and we arrived in Salvador 24 hours after waking up in the UK. And even the most hard-hearted would agree that to be woken up five hours later with the test firing of the local foghorn was a bit harsh. The rest of Sunday was for most of us a day off so Simon Rainer, Richard Peplow, and I went for a city tour; it would be our only chance to find out about this city. In the capable hands of George the guide, and our unpronounceable driver, we set off to be rather underwhelmed by the place. I felt miserable for George as he was very proud of his city, but it was a city in decay. Apart, that is, from two buildings – the aforementioned Wembleysized stadium – compliments of the pension fund – and the medical school, a beautiful pink and white classical Portuguese edifice from the turn of the 19th century, with colonnades and a globe-style lecture theatre. One thing did stand out for us – a

52 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

style of local art. Like Lowry with colour, it is rather more Bahamas than Brazil and a lot more atmospheric than the reality. Monday brought the opening ceremony which was, as is so often the case, a collection of individuals who are either promoting some part of the country, or are in a position of influence but have little real commitment. Only our man, Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, spoke with conviction and real intent to continue his crusade of improving the credibility of our precious industry. The highest roller talked about the ‘Alliance of Civilisations’ being created to help the East and the West to coexist. He talked of

projects to stop the disaffected youth of the world being drawn to terrorism but he was high on expectation and rather low on delivery, as we never found out about any of these mystery projects. He must be a very capable guy but anyone in a South American hotel who orders the finest French Champagne with a cigar and leaves three quarters of it in the bottle when those around him were gasping, doesn’t strike me as the kind of guy who really cared either way.

They have since found a further eight diamond-bearing pipes in the region Then it was the turn of our various sponsors, and an emerald mine founded in 1978 started the ball rolling with a potted history of how it was doing. Of note was the statistic that three carats of emeralds are expected to be recovered from 12 tons of ore/ earth. Next up was a geological prospecting company which was

able to tell us that one of its finds turned up a 140 ct rough diamond a couple of weeks earlier. I’d say that would be good for business. In 2004 the Brauna kimberlite field was the first kimberlite deposit found in Brazil. These three pipes within the ‘field’ are the same age as the diamond- bearing pipes of Africa; both were formed when the two continents were rather closer neighbours. The development company expects total production to exceed 2.57 million carats from this mine over the next seven years before it goes underground, which will increase Brazil’s annual production tenfold. They have since found a further eight diamond-bearing pipes in the region, and that is along with deposits of amethyst, citrine, pretty much all the garnets and tourmalines, most mineral ores and, as if that wasn’t enough, gold and silver too. The UK may have only Whitby Jet and Blue John but at least its government is rather more accountable. John’s second report from CIBJO will feature in our August/ September issue

James Riley, Greg Valerio, Marion Wilson (with Gem-A’s Barnett Bear), John Henn and Simon Rainer

HALLMARKING & FULFILMENT Assay Office Birmingham congratulates the British Jewellers’ Association and the National Association of Goldsmiths on their unification. The creation of the new organisation coincides happily with a whole new era for Assay Office Birmingham as it moves to its new building. The change is welcome; very best wishes to all members of the new National Association of Jewellers.

HALLMARKING DIRECT HALLMARKING IN TRANSIT HEATHROW

VIRTUAL ASSAY OFFICE ASSAY ASSURED HALLMARKING AND LOGISTIC SOLUTIONS FOR THE 21ST CENTURY For more information please contact our team at Edinburgh Assay Office. Tel: (+44) 131 556 1144 Email:admin@edinburghassayoffice.co.uk Web: www.edinburghassayoffice.co.uk

www.assayofﬁcebirmingham.com

Looking for that special person to help drive your business forward? Then look no further than the official N.A.G. recruitment website: www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk Used by thousands of candidates every month looking for jobs like yours in all areas including retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance, our industry-specific site is the place to advertise your vacancies. The N.A.G. enjoys an unrivalled reputation of trust within the industry. This means that by advertising on its Jeweller magazine’s recruitment website it provides you with a better opportunity to source candidates with the right skills and attributes, reducing the chance of unsuitable, time-wasting applications and offering better value for money than other generic job sites. Once your vacancy is posted, all registered candidates who have an interest in your job type will immediately receive an email alert advising them that a new vacancy is live, ensuring that no time is wasted in finding you the best person for the job. Please contact Ian Francis on ian.francis@jewellers-online.org or call 020 7749 1705 to find out more about our competitive advertising rates.

Anniversary Jewellers Advert_82x90mm.pdf

18/06/2015

CMY

SERENITY

FEI LIU FINE JEWELLERY

Congratulations to the new NAJ from

MARK MILTON COLLECTION mark-milton.com

Many congratulations on the historic unification of the BJA and NAG.... working together to take this great industry forward

www.arcticcirclediamonds.com

14:54

CHARITIES

UNIFICATION ISSUE

All in a good cause Both the BJA and the N.A.G. have a long and proud tradition of supporting charities that in turn support those in the industry. Together, as one association, the NAJ will continue to work alongside three fund-raising bodies that work hard to give a helping hand in a variety of ways.

The Centenary Trust The National Association of Goldsmiths Centenary Trust was set up in 1994 as part of the Association’s Centenary celebrations. While there were a number of excellent charities with jewellery industry connections in existence, a need was identified for an organisation that would specifically assist people in the retail sector of the jewellery industry. One of the principal objectives as stated in the Trust Deed is that the Trustees should ‘undertake’ to provide or procure the provision of scholarships, awards and assistance towards training and work experience opportunities. The trustees made awards under three distinct schemes: The Bursary Scheme – making a contribution to the cost of an education programme, normally JET2; a newly-introduced Loan Scheme for employees of multiple retailers to bridge the cost of study where the employer agrees to pay for the study, but only once successfully completing the course, and finally the Scholarship Apprentice (Training) Scheme. There are no formal qualifications required to apply for an award. Applicants do need to be currently employed within the jewellery industry or working within the educational sector on programmes directly relevant to employees within the jewellery industries. The trustees will also consider applicants from other associated trades. For further information visit: www.nagcentenarytrust.org

Benevolent Society There are many people from our industry, who worked hard all their lives, who find themselves in their retirement, or as a result of longterm ill health, needing financial help. Not everyone is entitled to anything more than their State Pension. In 1924 the Benevolent Society was formed. It started as a jewellery charity but expanded over the years to include all the trades covered by the five trade associations within the British Allied Trades Federation. The trades covered by the Society are governed by its Bye Laws, but

generally they are all those who owned, or worked in manufacturing, wholesaling or importing in the jewellery, giftware, travelgoods, small leathergoods and handbags and surface engineering sectors. Their employer need not have been a member of the Federation. The Society helps by giving regular (quarterly) or single grants to those who apply by completing a simple application form and confidential review. Single grants may be for electrical goods, carpets, clothing, beds, household repairs – or anything to make life easier. Each case is treated individually. Sometimes the applicant may also be lonely and may appreciate being invited to the summer outing where they can meet people and form friendships. A large proportion of the Society’s annual funding is generated through the generosity of the Federated Trade Association members. They are invited to make a voluntary donation of up to £28.50, via their membership subscription invoice – happily the majority of members pay this. Funds are also raised from the annual ball (the next on 3rd December, 2015) and other activities. Currently the Society is seeking beneficiaries. When people retire, they often have everything they need and it is sometimes several years later that they need help so, if you know of any such person in need please urge them to contact us. Their application will be treated in the strictest of confidence. Visit: www.batf.uk.com/en/benevolent-society/index.cfm

The Silversmiths & Jewellers Charity “Our charity was established over 180 years ago to help those who have worked in the silversmiths’ and goldsmiths’ industries, together with their widows and widowers who have fallen on hard times,” explains chairman Ian Morton. “Many of our grantees are helped in a small way on a regular basis. Our trustees also give consideration to reasonable requests for ‘one-off’ payments towards the acquisition of essential items and replacements.” Originally the charity had relied upon subscriptions from trade members and those who were in need were able to ask for assistance in retirement or ill-health. As the trade changed and shrank in size, and with the improvements within the welfare state, company and private pension schemes, applications for help and the number of subscribers dwindled. The decision was made to open up the resources of the charity to non-subscribers. Today any application is considered on its merits; the only criteria being service to the trade and genuine need. The work of the charity is nationwide and it embraces every sector of the trade – manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers. By means of regular financial support or one-off grants, it assists current and retired trade employees, or their spouses, who live anywhere in the UK and who find themselves in need because of poverty or sickness. Many of the cases dealt with are deeply distressing and it is a fallacy that examples of real poverty can no longer be found. Contrary to the popular misconception, the State does not always provide and those who have fallen upon hard times through no fault of their own have to turn to the Charity to help make their lives a little more pleasant especially in old age. Visit: http://tsjc.org.uk

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 55

UNIFICATION ISSUE

FEATURE

The Bigger

Picture Scott Walter, CEO and Assay Master for the Edinburgh Assay Office and chairman of the International Association of Assay Offices explains the complexities of international hallmarking compliance in our changing marketplace.

Diamonds by Appointment Ring – UK Hallmark

en years ago most jewellery retailers were selling UK hallmarked product to UK consumers through traditional bricks and mortar retail outlets only. With the exception of large multiples, most jewellery retailers were sourcing UK hallmarked product from just UK agents, wholesalers or buying groups.

• If the country you are importing from has no system and the country you are importing to does, then you must get the item hallmarked in compliance with the country you’re importing to.

A decade on and things have changed. Ecommerce has opened up a European, and in some cases, an international market for UK retailers. Ecommerce has also created a UK market for overseas retailers. More UK independents are now buying product directly from overseas manufacturers and importing it themselves. The growth of international jewellery brands that transcend traditional geographic retail boundaries has led to an evolution in jewellery logistics, distribution and hallmarking compliance.

• If the mark has been applied by a national assay office but it has been applied outside of its national boundaries e.g. An EU assay office applying marks in the Far East or in another EU country; there are some EU countries that will not accept these marks.

When selling precious metal jewellery overseas, directly sourcing jewellery from overseas or selling jewellery across multiple countries, it is essential to understand your regulatory compliance obligations for each market. Failure to do so, in some cases, can result in product being seized at customs. Navigating the complexities of international hallmarking compliance can be daunting but it’s not as complicated as you may think.

If you are importing goods make sure you know if they are marked or not. If they are marked make sure the mark is acceptable in the UK. Any UK Assay Office should be able to offer advice on this. If items are not marked and they are above the minimum exemption weight, get them hallmarked.

There are basically three regulatory mechanisms by which precious metal articles can move freely between countries without having to be hallmarked or re-hallmarked: • Some countries have no compulsory system of registration or hallmarking e.g. Germany. In these cases goods can be freely circulated without an independent hallmark.

Following a European Court of Justice ruling in the 1990s, EU member countries must recognise one another’s hallmarks, providing they offer an equivalent level of protection and the marks applied are intelligible to consumers. On the whole, EU countries operating independent third party hallmarking systems do recognise one another’s marks but there are exceptions:

JULY 2015

If you are selling overseas make sure that you understand the requirements for each of your markets. Ensure that your products carry a mark that will cover all of those markets. Again, any UK Assay Office should be able to give advice on this. Some countries e.g. Ireland, have no exemption weights so make sure you take this into account if your stock is marked to meet UK exemption weights. If you are supplying multiple markets and you are looking for a single, comprehensive compliance for all of those markets look for the common denominator. If they are all EU countries then a UK or equivalent EU hallmark will cover all them providing it is not applied outside of an assay offices’ national boundaries. If all of your markets are signatories to the Convention then any Convention members hallmark will suffice. If any of your target markets have no compulsory system then they can be discounted from your assessment.

Common Control Mark

• If a country is a signatory to the International Hallmarking Convention then they have an obligation to accept hallmarks from other signatory countries, providing the Common Control Mark (CCM) has been applied. The Convention is an International treaty and its membership continues to expand. The CCM can only be applied within the national territory of the signatory state.

56 THE JEWELLER

As a retailer you are solely responsible for the legal compliance of the product you sell not your supplier. In terms of practical guidance for retailers, my advice would be to follow these simple rules:

For more information on the Hallmarking Convention visit: www.hallmarkingconvention.org For contact information for international assay offices visit: www.theiaao.com/members Scott Walker previously served on the International Hallmarking Conventions Standing Technical Committee.

SKYGUARD’S PERSONAL SAFETY DEVICE COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE! Skyguard’s personal safety service provides 24-hour protection at the simple touch of a button. Using GPS-enabled devices fitted with mobile phone technology, you can raise the alarm wherever you are, whatever the time. ALARM Using palm-sized personal safety alarms, specifically and exclusively developed by Skyguard, fitted with the latest mobile phone and GPS technology, a call for help is just one button away. 24 HOUR BACKUP At the press of a button, Skyguard’s Controllers will be on hand to backup and assist in any emergency... at any time. As soon as the alarm is raised, Controllers will know who you are, where you are, vital details and your personalised contacts. RESPONSIVE Skyguard has direct access to Police control rooms, bypassing the 999 service and providing a faster response in an emergency.

TWO-WAY AUDIO Skyguard’s alarms come equipped with two-way audio, which allows Controllers to talk to and reassure the user when the alarm is activated, if safe to do so. MANDOWN ALARM Automatically sends an alarm to Skyguard in the event of a fall or sudden impact – vital if you slip, trip or are knocked unconscious and unable to raise an alarm manually. CARRY The compact and lightweight design of Skyguard’s MySOS device makes it convenient to use in everyday situations. It can be worn around the neck, attached to a keyring, a belt or in an identity badge holder. SHARE / POOL DEVICES Share personal safety devices between multiple users at no extra cost. Changes can be made instantly via Skyguard’s online Customer Service Centre portal.

GPS LOCATING Upon alarm activation, Controllers can pinpoint your exact location as seen on an on-screen map - vital for directing help to your position... fast!

For more information about how Skyguard can protect you and your employees, contact the Membership department on:

020 7613 4445

The National Association of Goldsmiths

www.jewellers-online.org

www.skyguardgroup.com

THE crime prevention initiative to get involved with... Brought to you by the N.A.G. and T.H. March SaferGems is a major initiative against crime in the jewellery, antiques and fine art trades The SaferGems team has links to all the UK police forces The team co-ordinate data from the trade on incidents and suspicious activities and send alerts to members of the NAG, BJA and TH March SaferGems ultimately helps the police to identify and convict criminals

get involved... www.safergems.org.uk 0845 272 7802 T 020 7613 4445 E nag@jewellers-online.org W www.jewellers-online.org

UNIFICATION ISSUE

picks... FROM OUR COMBINED MEMBERSHIP

Between them, our two associations (The BJA in particular) represent the full gamut of industry supply – from large-scale manufacturing, to brand distribution, high-end designer names, niche specialities and services and emerging makers. Over the following pages we offer a snap shot of the membership of what will very soon be the National Association of Jewellers.

Goldmajor

Sheldon Bloomfield

Domino

A new collection by award-winning designer Sarah Ho is Numerati – a suite of nine Number Rings in 18ct rose gold, with fine lines of brilliant cut diamonds, twisting to form each number, from one to nine. The design concept means that the numbers are visible when the ring is held, but once worn it becomes a hidden secret. Each ring is also available in 18ct white, yellow or black gold and can be personalised with alternative gemstones. www.shojewellery.com

JULY 2015

Fei Liu

Sarah Ho

58 THE JEWELLER

This family-run, trade-only business is renowned for designing and manufacturing fine, coloured stone-set jewellery in 18ct gold and platinum. As well as the traditional gems, Sheldon Bloomfield can also provide a bespoke range of rarer stones. Among the latest pieces in the collection is this yellow gold, citrine and diamond ring. www.sheldonbloomfield.com

Following feedback from customers, Domino’s Diamond Ring Mount Collection has been tweaked and 100 ring designs, 44 of which are new for 2015, are included in its new catalogue. All are available in a choice of platinum and white, yellow and pink 18ct gold. They can be supplied semi-finished or fully finished using a choice of GVS or HSi diamonds, or can be set using the customer’s own stones. Diamond content ranges from 10pt stones to 7.00ct pieces and trends include textured and highly detailed shanks, multi-stone designs and more contemporary-looks. www.dominojewellery.com

Renowned for its collections of amber jewellery, Goldmajor (which celebrated its 30th anniversary last year) also offers pieces that use other materials, such as pearls, enamel and – in this case – marcasite. Seen here is a brooch that has been styled to give a slight Celtic twist, but the line also includes Art Deco-inspired pieces. www.goldmajor.co.uk

Award-winning Birmingham-based designer Fei Liu launched his own brand in 2006, securing extensive international acclaim. A fusion of Eastern heritage with Western design, Fei Liu’s signature style combines delicate elegance with a bold, often sculptural feel. His inspirations include flowers, femininity and structural form; elements of each can be found within his bespoke creations, such as this tourmaline bead neckpiece, with pavé green garnets and a diamond and white gold feather motif. www.feiliu.co.uk

Augustine Jewels

UNIFICATION ISSUE

The new Summer Pastel Beach Collection, by British jeweller Augustine, features a range of coloured stones inspired by the South of France. Citrine, rose quartz, green amethyst (prasiolite) and blue sky topaz have been set into affordably-priced necklaces, rings and bangles. The line sits alongside designer Alexandra Robson’s luxury collection – all hand-made in British workshops. www.augustinejewels.com

London-based jewellery designer and qualified gemmologist Lilly-Hastedt, is renowned for her love of coloured gemstones, which she combines with simple shapes and clever detailing. Shown here is a natural tanzanite trillion ring in 18ct gold. www.lillyhastedt.com

Storm

This British brand offers statement designs and trend-led watches and jewellery. With a multitude of cutting edge designs across both casual and contemporary styles, Storm continues to push boundaries through its innovative approach to both categories. The pieces are almost architectural in form – as seen in the Tryla collection featuring floating Swarovski crystals. Stainless steel, enamel, ceramic and leather are just a few of the materials used in the collections. www.stormwatches.com

Alexis’ latest collection of engagement rings features unique ‘Snowflake’ natural coloured diamonds – a more unusual take on the classic solitaire. Each diamond has natural, ice crystallike inclusions. Handcrafted in her Lewes studio, the collections feature stones hand-chosen for their colour, depth and natural characteristics, captured in textured 18ct gold and platinum settings. Whether rose, Victorian old mine, brilliant or cushion cut, each diamond and each ring can be made bespoke to suit customers’ taste; retailers can choose to have a selection of bridal styles to present in store. www.alexisdove.com

Tomasz Donocik Alexis Dove

Simple and stylish, the Carnaby Infinity Rope collection by London Road has been created in solid 9ct yellow gold. These twisted drop earrings are complemented by a ring and bracelet with double gold chains. The Carnaby collection also features rope stacking rings in yellow, white and rose gold, as well as hoop earrings. www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk

Lilly Hastedt

London Road

Known for his love of different stones (as well as bold, uncompromising design) Tomasz Donocik does not limit himself to creating for women. His men’s pieces are equally dramatic, whether the Italian leather bracelets set with diamonds or studded with silver and plated gold, or these 18ct gold Cigar Band Rings set with black and autumn diamonds. www.tomaszdonocik.com

➥

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 59

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Ungar & Ungar

Sheila Fleet

Husband and wife team, Bernard and Ruth Ungar, is now widely recognised for the Perennial Collection, comprising floral bands – romantic, lace-inspired rings with matching earrings and bracelets. The roaring ’20s are also referenced and the glamour of old Hollywood – encapsulated in the Divine Decadence and Blue Jazz Collections. Using 18ct gold – in all three colours – or platinum, and featuring the finest hand-selected gemstones, each piece is handcrafted by artisan jewellers. www.ungarandungar.com

Scottish jewellery designer Sheila has always been fascinated by the sea, and waves have been a regular source of inspiration for her silver collections. Names from the past, like Surfbreaker, Scapa Flow and Atlantic Swell, have been joined more recently by Creel and Tidal and now Sea & Surf for 2015. www.sheilafleet.com

Unique Jewelry Specialising in contemporary, design-led jewellery for men and women, Unique Jewelry is particularly known for working with new materials like titanium and tungsten… as well as stainless steel and leather. The ladies’ leather bracelets, seen here, combine colourful soft leather with stainless steel (or gold plated) clasps and a variety of different charms. www.uniquejewelry.co.uk

Sophie Harley

The Solar collection offer a touch of whimsical sunshine, with gold-plated silver pieces that drip chains and hearts. The piece de resistance is the Mega Solar choker – a triple chain necklace with engraved central sun charm and candy-coloured kiln-fired enamel hearts. www.sophieharley.co.uk

Linda Macdonald

New for autumn/winter 2015 is the enchanting new collection ‘Lucky Penny’ inspired by autumn days and the saying ‘a penny for your thoughts…..’ The main focus of this new range is a set of lucky pennies, with intricate detail of flowers, hearts, and dream-like imagery. There will be necklaces, earrings, rings, and bangles to complement all pieces. www.lindamacdonaldjewellery.com ➥

60 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

UNIFICATION ISSUE

Sarah Jordan

The Feather Collection is an evolution of the instantly recognisable Sarah Jordan signature style – feminine, essential, everyday, luxury. All designs within the collection are named after girls’ names in different languages, evoking the beauty and timelessness of feathers, capturing their essence of free-flowing movement. The attention to detail and the importance of how the jewellery should feel when worn have always been a priority in the design and manufacture with even the most outrageous sculptural forms. www.sarahjordan.co.uk

LucyQ

These stunningly simple but chic designs are inspired by the extraordinary large icicles Lucy saw on a recent holiday. She has created a range of solid sterling silver jewellery that is tactile, organic and fluid in its shape – bangles, earrings, ring and pendant, that work well for both a day and night-time look. www.lucyqdesigns.co.uk

Allied Gold

Clogau

In 2014 Allied Gold purchased the majority shareholding in Argentium Silver, having a great belief in the ‘superior patented silver’. To show its commitment to the low-maintenance, hypoallergenic and fire stain-free material it has launched www.argentiumshop.com which features hundreds of designs all made in Argentium Silver. Also showcased on the new site are lines combining gold fused to Argentium in the Colours I Am wedding rings and Argentium accented with gold, gemstones and diamonds. This new site is consumer-facing but all the lines featured are available for stockists to purchase and carry in their own store. www.alliedgold.com

Allumer

Clogau’s Am Byth collection comprises timeless, signature pieces featuring elegant filigree detail and a touch of Welsh gold – the perfect way to express endless love. Meanwhile, the Tree of Life collection takes as its motif the bow, delicately intertwined with vines and leaves – a style with appeal across all ages. www.clogau.co.uk

Meaning ‘to light up’ in French, Allumer was founded by Natasha Leith-Smith and was started as a gift to a friend. Described by Vogue as ‘the Rolls Royce of friendship bracelets’, the jewellery can be tailor-made to a customer’s desired length and is available in a variety of metals and stones. The chains can be wrapped or links, with the option of being worn as necklaces, bracelets or rings and each piece is packaged in a special matchbox. www.allumer.co.uk

62 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

Hockley Mint – the originator of WedFit – is launching a number of new pieces that will feature unique and striking stone combinations. The company is also soon to launch a collection of stone set pendant and earring suites designed for Christmas and Valentines sales. www.hockleymint.com

The Autrumn/Winter 2015/6 Winter Gardens collection takes inspiration from nature – gardens in particular. Creative director Nathalie Colin has moved her spring florals towards an ‘English manor vintage tapestry’ direction, for a feminine, romantic look with ‘historic hints’. Foliage morphs into lace-like filigrees, insects and night butterflies transform into stylised pendants, in a palette of autumnal flowers and berry tones. www.swarovski.com

Hockley Mint

Swarovski

Rachel Galley

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Designer Rachel Galley’s awardwinning bridal collection is based on her timeless ‘Snowdrop’ line of fine jewellery with its fluid lines – available in platinum or gold and with central stones of the customer’s choosing. The bridal Snowdrop rings are all wed fit and have interlocking wedding and eternity bands. The fine jewellery collection follows on from Sophie’s successful silver ranges. www.rachelgalley.com

Mark Milton The quality Austrian watchstrap people not only offer a comprehensive collection of styles to suit all tastes and timepieces, they have also (cleverly) thought about the potential of new technology. Recognising that smart watches hold great growth potential, they have also identified that the Apple SmartWatch wont have a standardised bracelet attachment. All smart watches with a standardised attachment can be equipped with Hirsch bracelets or Fits to bracelets. Focussing on Sony, LG, Motorola and Pebble brands, Hirsch offers straps in calf leather, rubber, textiles and synthetics. www.hirschag.com

Deakin & Francis

Mens jewellery brand Tateossian has launched a limited edition collection to mark its 25th anniversary. Employing its extensive archives for inspiration, signature tie-clips and cufflinks have been selected and each re-born piece features a blue Paraiba gemstone to represent the brand’s colour. The line also includes a new collection of bracelets, with Tateossian’s five signature clasps, each with the stone. www.tateossian.com

The Additions collection is made up of gold plated sterling silver and stainless steel items, with many utilising the renowned Tresor Paris crystals. Designed around geometric shapes these pieces – for men and women – include interesting cuts and defining angles. There are rose gold and silver cufflinks to be worn with shirts, and these in turn can be accessorised with the new money clips and tie pins – a first for Tresor Paris. There are both rose gold and white gold varieties to co-ordinate accordingly. www.tresorparis.co.uk

Tateossian

Tresor Paris

This season sees the launch of the Mark Milton’s Midas Collection: a range of 9ct (mostly yellow) bold gold jewellery – long pendants with a sleek cut-out design, drop earrings with unusual textured finishes and 80s retro style, over-sized studs. The Spotlight and Endless Collections offer elegant statement cuffs and neckpieces in 18ct vermeil. “We’ve been busy adding to our gold ranges this year to answer the huge leap in demand for bold yellow gold jewellery,” says London-based Milton. www.mark-milton.com

Hirsch

The Birmingham-based cufflink manufacturer (founded 1786), owned and run by seventh generation brothers James and Henry Deakin, has just introduced a Vintage Collection. Handmade in its Jewellery Quarter workshops, the 10 vitreous enamel designs in 10 different colourways, have been created using the original dies used by the company’s craftsmen in the early 1900s. The hand-enamelled cufflinks feature the original fetter chain fittings. www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk ➥

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N E W

D E S I G N E R S

Part of the raison d’être of The BJA is supporting new talent entering the industry. Its Kickstart initiative with International Jewellery London has launched the careers of many now well-established designers, while its online ‘Designer Showcase’ helps emerging designers reach the widest possible audience. Here we pick some names to watch.

Charlotte Lowe

Charlotte Lowe’s distinctive jewellery seeks to capture shared moments and the designer’s love for travel. These pieces in sterling silver with 22ct gold vermeil and oxidised detail are from her ‘Mother & Child Footprints in the Sand’ collection and are designed to serve as a reminder of happy, family days in summer. www.charlottelowe.co.uk

Amy Keeper

‘Spyglass Collection’ by Amy Keeper was inspired by the aesthetic of Victorian scientific instruments and a spyglass from a favourite story for children. It is designed to evoke magic and mystery. All Amy’s pieces, some of which incorporate pearls and gemstones, are made in her workshop at Craft Central in Clerkenwell, London. www.amykeeperjewellery.co.uk

Rosie Sanders

The French courtesan Madame de Pompadour was the inspiration for this collection from Rosie Sanders who was recently dubbed ‘New Designer of the Year’ in the UK Jewellery Awards. Entitled ‘Renaissance Rebel’ this handcarved collection is in sterling silver and 18ct gold vermeil combined with enamel and a selection of specially cut gemstones. Blue moonstone is featured here. www.rosiesanders.co.uk

Hailstone Designs

Designer Sue Hailstone uses glass, precious metals and cubic zirconia to create a highly unusual and colourful collection of jewellery in which no two pieces are ever the same. All designs come in branded packaging, tissue paper and gift bags together with numbered certificates of authenticity. The designs featured are from the ‘Avalon Collection’. www.hailstonesdesigns.com

Esoteric Luxury

For those seeking jewellery with a strong back-story, ‘Esoteric Luxury’ is the place to find it. The ‘Limpias Collection’ is based on an ancient Mayan ceremony designed to purify a person and remove the evil eye. The design incorporates elements of the sacred cocoa pod and the number nine, which features in the Limpias ceremony. Like all the company’s jewellery it is based on deep metaphysical concepts. www.esotericluxury.com ➥

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Learn from a dynamic network of independant jewellers like you Become part of a dynamic co-operative that exists to benefit you, the independent jeweller. The CMJ is much more than a buying group offering preferential terms. It is a network of retail members across the UK and Ireland, who together with the CMJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s executive team, approved suppliers and professional experts can provide support, advice and friendship. Call Lucy, our membership services manager, on 01788 540250 to find out how we can help you.

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S I L V E R S M I T H S The BJA has long prided itself on representing the interests of the country’s manufacturing silversmiths as well as its jewellery producers. Its membership includes silversmiths of all types from individual designer-makers working largely to commission, through to mass producers of silver gift items and cutlery.

Rebecca H Joselyn

‘The Packaging Collection’ from the Sheffield silversmith and jeweller Rebecca Joselyn (who has designed the BJA Awards) draws its inspiration from everyday containers and uses them to create quirky, yet useful, silverware for use in the home. This ‘Sardine’ sauce pot and spoon in sterling silver with a gilt interior has a removable top for re-filling and cleaning. Other pieces include salt and pepper sets based on tins of tonic water and flower vases made in the shape of paper gift bags. Rebecca’s work has achieved widespread media attention and she numbers the Duke of Devonshire among her patrons. www.designsinsilver.co.uk

Martyn Pugh

The renowned Worcestershire silversmith Martyn Pugh produces a number of core ranges alongside his commission work for individual customers and institutions. This ‘Luna Bowl’ (35cm x 15cm) with its fluid, mirror-polished ripples, appears to float on a fluted glass stem with a stable silver foot. It is ideal as a table centre, on a sideboard for fruit, or as pure ornamentation. Matching ‘Flute’ candlesticks, also featuring fluted glass stems, are also available singly or in pairs. www.martynpugh.co.uk

L J Millington

These pens and pencils are from the ‘Pulse’ range by the specialist English silverware manufacturer L J Millington. These are part of an extensive selection of men’s gifts previously made by the long-established manufacturer William Manton which Millington purchased in 2008. In addition to its gift ranges Millington also specialises in creating bespoke collections for many top names in the retail sector, providing a service which covers everything from design through to final production. www.ljmillington.co.uk

Gardeners will love this unusual condiment set from Tregawne Silver which supplies a comprehensive selection of silver gift objects including pens, picture frames and Christening items. The silver-gilt watering can holds the pepper while the silver-gilt wheelbarrow and spade is for the salt. A bucket and spade mustard pot (not pictured) completes the set. All these pieces are in solid sterling silver and are completely handmade by the company’s silversmith. www.tregawne.co.uk

M C Hersey

Tregawne

This family company bases its production on the highly-skilled art of silver spinning. The spinner starts with a circle of silver, which is then formed over a pre-made chuck to give the shape of the object to be made. The end result is of the highest quality. Hersey’s comprehensive collection of products includes traditional pieces of tableware such as silver candlesticks, salt and pepper mills, napkin rings and wine coasters, as well as a wide selection of gift items for men, women and children. The sterling silver egg cup and spoon pictured here make a perfect baby or Christening gift. www.hersey.co.uk

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Clark Diamonds

London Pearl offers its customers over 10,000 different pearl jewellery lines in both gold and silver. All pearls are sourced directly from pearl farmers and can also be supplied loose or in strings. This is a global brand which can be found exhibiting at Basel, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Vicenza and IJL. The picture shows a range of variously coloured, loose, cultured pearls including South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater varieties. www.londonpearl.co.uk

Holts LondoN

Marcia Lanyon

Marcia Lanyon Ltd has been supplying a wide range of high quality coloured, calibrated and noncalibrated gemstones, beads and pearls to the jewellery trade since 1978. The company currently offers some 10,000 lines of active stock, which is continually updated with much of it being hand-picked by Marcia herself on her regular global buying trips to find new sources and materials. Here you will find a team of expert staff to help you find the unusual and the unique as well as all your day-to-day coloured stone requirements. www.marcialanyon.com

International Gemstones

Fancy coloured diamonds, such as the ones pictured here, are a speciality for International Gemstones. In addition to unusual diamonds the company also offers a wide selection of coloured gemstones in a variety of cuts and sizes. This business prides itself on providing a comprehensive service to its customers from its offices in London and Geneva, and if it does not have something in stock will source it on their behalf. Its regular newsletter for customers, blog and stock updates, provide useful additional information for customers. www.thegembank.com

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Clark Diamonds, which is based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, has been supplying loose diamonds to the manufacturing and retail trade for over 30 years. The company holds an extensive stock in all shapes and qualities from the tiniest half pointers to large and special stones. It is proud of its reputation for friendly and efficient service and the long-term relationships it builds with its customers. www.clarkdiamonds.co.uk

Pink gemstones are currently extremely fashionable and whether it’s peach sapphire, tourmaline, kunzite, morganite, rose quartz or an oval, multi-faceted pink spinel – such as the stone pictured here – that you’re looking for, Holts London is the place to find it. This award-winning, family-owned business, which is based in the heart of Hatton Garden, is one of the UK’s leading specialists in coloured gemstones and holds over 100 different types in an exciting diversity of colours, shapes and sizes. www.holtsgems.com

The London-based diamond trading company Deblinger Diamonds has been supplying certified and non-certified stones to the jewellery trade for over 30 years. Its stock, which includes fancy shapes and sizes down to as small as 1mm, is expertly picked to ensure it represents the best possible quality and value for money. A recent addition to the company’s offer is a book entitled ‘A Diamond has to be Seen’ written by its MD, Robert Deblinger. This is designed to address the rise and rise of diamonds sold on the Internet and explains in some detail why consumers, who care about the quality of their diamonds, are best advised to buy them from a reputable, bricks-and-mortar retailer they can trust. Copies are available on Amazon or directly from Deblinger Diamonds. www.deblingerdiamonds.com

Whether it’s fancy, coloured diamonds, the ‘big three’ precious stones, luscious South Sea Pearls or any of the other myriad gemstones used in jewellery production, there is a member company able to supply them.

London Pearl

Deblinger Diamonds

G E M S T O N E S

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M A N U F A C T U R I N G The BJA was founded over 125 years ago to represent the interests of Birmingham’s manufacturing jewellers and silversmiths. Since then it has considerably broadened not just its geographical spread but also its remit. As the previous pages so clearly demonstrate, its membership now includes companies drawn from all points in the jewellery supply chain. However, its manufacturing core remains strong and its members continue to offer all aspects of jewellery manufacture from rapid prototyping, casting and stamping through to mounting, setting and finishing. What is more, feedback from the industry suggests that there has recently been a real resurgence of interest in ‘British made’ products with retailers and consumers alike prepared to pay that little extra for quality UK-produced jewellery – a phenomenon which has resulted in a number of well-known names stepping up production from their home manufacturing bases. One company that has a long manufacturing tradition is the Birmingham gold and silver jewellery-maker Samuel Pitt, which this year celebrates its 150th anniversary. This business offers a full manufacturing service to the trade, with many well-known brands using it to make their products. It also offers a comprehensive selection of its own product lines. Another long-established Birmingham company is Weston Beamor, which also offers manufacturing services including 3D printing, casting and diamond setting. “We are regularly receiving enquiries from jewellery suppliers who have, until very recently, had their products made overseas but who are now looking at trying to return their production to this country, and there is no doubt that the gap, in terms of price, between what British firms and their Far Eastern competitors can provide is closing,” says Glen Day, head of business development at the company. This is a view echoed by Henry Curteis of Curteis Chain who told us: “At one time manufacturing was everywhere in Britain. In 1980 there were over 20 companies making chain for example. Now we are almost the only one. Manufacturing for a while became a dirty word. It seems that this is no longer the case and people understand again why we are needed. Customers have come to appreciate the service we offer, as well as the products.”

Manufactured by Cooksongold for Bathsheba Grossman

The London producer ‘Rider & Rider’ has seen considerable growth recently in orders from retailers seeking one-off, bespoke products on behalf of their customers. “Retailers value the individuality, dependability, continuity and high levels of service that a British maker can give them,” says Steve Rider. The ‘closing of the gap’ in British, as opposed to overseas, production has, in no small part, been facilitated by the considerable investments in plant and machinery which have been made in recent years by many of the leading players. The introduction of the very latest high-tech equipment and of precision-engineering techniques into what has traditionally been viewed as a craft-based industry has had a huge impact on production times and aided just-in-time manufacturing. Thanks to 3D scanning equipment, computer-aided design, rapid prototyping and sophisticated multi-dimensional computer operated milling machines, jewellery production has not only been dramatically streamlined but also offers greater choice and faster delivery. And there are more new techniques in the pipeline. Cookson has recently invested in a laser sintering DMCS machine, something which won it the Innovation Award in this year’s UK Jewellery Awards. While still in its very early stages this machine will sinter or print products straight into gold – cutting out the necessity for a number of production processes and opening the door to ever-more innovative jewellery design. While there is much work going on at the cutting edge, there are still times in jewellery production when only a skilled craftsperson can produce a design and the Association’s membership includes some of the very best goldsmiths, mounters, setters and finishers. A full list of all those member companies offering manufacturing services to the trade can be found on: www.bja.org.uk which includes a search option for those seeking a particular skill set.

3D printing by Weston Beamor

Here are just a very few examples of the many services on offer:

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The Goldsmith – Ian Hall

Chain Making – Curteis

There are times when a piece of jewellery simply has to be constructed by hand and the independent goldsmith Ian Hall of Lasting Impressions has the craft skills required to fashion designs such as this exquisite platinum pendant. Due to its fineness, the scroll detail is just 0.2mm thick; the pendant uses no cast components and was entirely handmade using platinum bullion. It houses an 8.52ct chequerboard, pear-shaped tanzanite a 1.04ct round-brilliant Fvs1 ‘Hearts and Arrows’ diamond and a number of small brilliant cut diamonds in the scroll detail.

Curteis Chain has been making machine-made chain from its production facility in Shropshire for over 40 years. It offers a comprehensive selection of designs including this angled filed trace chain, which was introduced in 2013 and is one of its best-selling lines. www.curteis.com

Bespoke Jewellery Production – Rider and Rider

Among the membership are a number of casting companies spread across the UK. These include, among many others, such well-known names as Hean Studio, Hockley Mint, JewelCast, Merrell Casting, Niagara, Jewellery Cast Scotland, Precision Cast and Weston Beamor. These casters each have their own specialities and between them offer a range of casting options across the whole gamut of precious metals. Many of them will cast daily in silver, gold and platinum and offer the facility to cast fairly large objet d’art pieces as well as standard items of jewellery.

Rapid Prototyping Rapid prototyping, or 3D printing, is now an essential element in much jewellery production and there are a number of specialist companies and bureaus which will turn a design on paper, or a CAD file, into a master pattern from which subsequent pieces can be made, and will supply either wax or resin prototypes from which castings in precious metal can be produced.

Casting tree by Weston Beamor

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Bullion – Umicore

Casting

Rider and Rider is a chainsmiths and jewellers which supplies a specialist service in platinum and 18ct. yellow gold. It provides a jewellery design consultancy and is happy to accept special commissions. It is particularly well-known for its comprehensive range of 45 readily-available platinum chain designs of any length. The platinum bracelets pictured from top to bottom are: Millgrain Bow and Rings; Fancy Curb and Figaro; Fetter and Three; Three Mix and Match Bars and Bar and Trace. RRPs range from around £1265 to £4130. www.riderandrider.co.uk

Environmentally-sound raw materials are increasingly important within today’s jewellery industry. The Birmingham company, Umicore UK Ltd (previously Allegmeine), the wholly-owned subsidiary of the global material technology group Umicore, is committed to providing 100 per cent recycled precious metals and also those which have been accredited through the Responsible Jewellery Council’s stringent audit trail as ‘conflict free’. This company offers a comprehensive selection of bullion in all its raw material forms and is especially known for its platinum. www.umicore.co.uk

Repairs – Maker Mends

Pearl and Bead Stringing – Janie’s Stringing

As fewer retail jewellers than in the past now boast their own workshops, finding companies able to offer the full gamut of jewellery repairs is increasingly important. The Association boasts a number of businesses which can do this, not least Maker Mends, which is a one-stop shop for everything from stone-setting to watch repairs and pearl re-stringing for independents, multiples and multi-national luxury brands. www.makermends.com

Janie’s Stringing has been established for over 20 years and provides a postal pearl- stringing and jewellery restringing service, normally with a one week turnaround. The company will restring necklaces and bracelets, both knotted and un-knotted, normally using silk thread. It will also redesign pieces if desired and specialises in matching lost pearls and other types of bead as closely as possible. www.janies-stringing.co.uk ➥

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Who is this course suitable for? Supervisors, team leaders and junior managers.

Who is this course suitable for? Supervisors, managers, proprietors or business owners (existing or prospective).

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Course duration Six weeks per module. Type of assessment One assignment per module (six in total). Topics covered • Market awareness • Managing financial variables • Customer management • Maximising a team’s potential • Professional operations management • Promoting your business.

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

A ncillar y

S ervices

Not all within the two current associations make or sell jewellery. Among their membership is a whole host of businesses providing a range of additional products and services, and which between them supply everything from jewellery display and packaging items through to tools, lighting and jewellery tags. Here is a very small selection of some of the items on offer.

Jewellery Tags – Magpie Europe

Magpie (Europe) Ltd is a British manufacturer with over 30 years of award-winning experience in the design and manufacture of labelling and barcoding solutions for the jewellery sector. Its flagship brand is GemTAGS range of jewellery labels. This is compatible with most stock control systems and fully compatible with all thermal printers. The labels come in a variety of colours and shapes, are sonic bath-resistant and available in a special tamper-proof material. www.magpie-europe.com

Specialist Lighting – Parify The specialist lighting producer Parify aims to help its customers showcase their products in the best light possible and has developed solutions for specific issues within the industry. The ‘Linea’ light can be used in showcases, windows and display cabinets, while the ‘Prail’ down-lights can be used to highlight window displays or in the general store environment. All Parify products have a five-year guarantee. www.parify.co.uk

The Jeweller’s Box Company of London has been supplying colourful handmade bespoke leather packaging for jewellery for some 30 years. This is a Fairtrade company working with artisans in Bangladesh to supply customers all over the world. Its products are handmade from vegetable tanned leather and lined with specially made Italian flock fabrics. Most styles have interchangeable inserts available allowing great flexibility. Blind embossing is a particular speciality. www.thejewellersboxcompany.com

Display Materials – The Jewellery Display company

The Jewellery Display Company in Birmingham designs and manufactures jewellers’ window displays to each individual customer’s own requirements. It offers a range of bespoke, free-dress items and also a range produced in the Far East, which is available in black, white and cream. It carries a range of stock boxes designed to house surplus stock and can also manufacture one-off, handmade cases for special products. The risers pictured here are designed to height to the base of a window display or a counter and come in a range of different bespoke sizes, colours and materials. www.jewellery-display.co.uk

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Tools for Jewellers – Sutton Tools

Packaging – The Jeweller’s Box Company

The latest technology from Sutton Tools enables retailers to carry out trouble-free rhodium plating in their own premises – often while the customer waits. The RM01 from German specialist Jentner offers push button operation and plates a ring in around 30 seconds. The unit has a small footprint and uses just four glass beakers, which can be used to easily decant solutions back into storage. For an outlay of just £799 the kit includes a litre of rhodium solution which will plate up to 1,000 rings and can pay for itself in about 20 rings! Search for PS058 at www.suttontools.co.uk

Stock Control s Systems – Anagram Systems Global company, Anagram Systems, offers ‘Encore’, an integrated stock control and accounting system designed for retail, manufacturing, wholesale and distribution companies within the jewellery industry. Encore includes an all-encompassing and easy to use work-flow engine and extensive features which integrate every aspect of a business’ operations within a single repository. Encore is a modular system available in three standard, fully-customisable versions. Anagram provides support via its dedicated UK-based helpdesk. The system is designed for Microsoft Windows and is available on premise and as a fully-managed service via the cloud. www.anagramsystems.co.uk n

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

REGULAR

Where to go, what to see and… Association events and courses September 12th – 14th: IRV Loughborough Conference, Loughborough University Annual must-attend event for current and prospective Registered Valuers, including lectures from 33 guest speakers and a record 26 professional workshops (new and repeated). Sponsored by Gem-A as well as The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers and TH March. irv@jewellers-online.org October 7th: Essential Display, London Tutor Judy Head offers a combination of theory and practical hands-on visual display sessions. Students learn how to put together exciting displays, together with rules and guidelines, to help build knowledge and confidence. Contact amandaw@jewellers-online.org for more details

Trade Fairs & Events July 26th – 28th: JA New York, Javits Convention Center, NYC Intimate, boutique-style fair showcasing 500+ international jewellery brands and designers, across a broad taste, style and price point spectrum. www.ja-newyork.com August 2nd – 4th: Pure London, Olympia Over 800 brands showing women’s and men’s fashion, accessories and jewellery (Lola Rose, Tatty Devine, Dyrberg Kern), including Pure Rocks housing semi-precious and fine jewellery from up-and-coming designers such as JuditB, My Flash Trash and Astrid & Miyu. www.purelondon.com

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2nd – 4th: Scoop, Saachi Gallery, King’s Road, London SW3 Contemporary designer collections including jewellery by Mirabelle and Feather & Stone www.scoop-international.com 7th: The Jewellery Room, Design Society, Copenhagen A showcase for the unconventional/unusual jewellery from Scandinavian brands, as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week. www.thejewelleryroom.dk 9th – 10th: CMJ Autumn Trade Event, Birmingham’s Hilton Metropole Hotel Invited suppliers will present products and services to retail members of the buying group. The event includes a gala dinner and award presentations. www.masterjewellers.co.uk September 6th – 8th: IJL 2015, Olympia Grand, London The Diamond Jubilee edition of the fair that showcases British and international jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers. Seminars, catwalk shows and special features are also on the programme. See next month’s issue for a full preview of the event. www.jewellerylondon.com 13th – 15th: Top Drawer Olympia, London A chance to see over 800 UK and international exhibitors specialising in design in various forms – including fashion jewellery, gifts and fashion. www.topdrawer.co.uk

Nyumbani

18th – 22nd: London Fashion Week, Brewer Street Car Park, London W1 Jewellery showrooms, including Rock Vault with designers such as Imogen Belfield, Jacqueline Cullen and Orenella Iannuzzi. www.londonfashionweek.co.uk 20th – 22nd: Scoop London, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 Contemporary and emerging fashion, accessory and jewellery designers (such as Parisian Sweety Jane and Belgian Mathilde Danglade). A new edition of Scoop, in collaboration with LFW and therefore taking advantage of increased visitors to the capital. www.scoop-international.com

Sales & Exhibitions July Current – 25th October: Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal, The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, Co Durham A collaboration with the Foundation Pierre Bergé to create a comprehensive display of the French fashion designers’ work and life. www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk 18th – 23rd: Monaco Auction Week, Hotel Hermitage, Monte Carlo Conducted by French auction house Artcurial, a sale of luxurious collector items of fine watches and jewellery and vintage Hermes. Included will be jewellery by Cartier, Boucheron and Place Vendome and watches by Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet and Cartier. www.artcurial.com August Current – 6th September: Inside the Victorian Jewellery Box, Royal Pump Room Museum, Harrogate A display of the wide range of Victorian jewellery from the museum’s collection. From the opulent pieces worn by the wealthy, to more affordable, everyday

jewellery. Including sentimental and mourning jewellery. www.harrogate.gov.uk 7th – 31st: Dazzle Edinburgh, Dovecot Studios, Infirmary Street Showcasing the work of contemporary jewellery designers working in a range of materials from gold and silver to paper. Names include Latham & Neve, Jenny Llewellyn and Cara Tonkin. www.dazzle-exhibitions.co.uk September 22nd – 27th: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Week One: Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 Internationally-recognised premier showcase for contemporary British designer jewellery and silverware. Buyers can commission or buy directly from the maker. All work exhibited is hallmarked. Expect new exhibitors and specially curated displays as well as talks by the likes of Wartski’s Geoffrey Munn, Vogue’s Carol Woolton, gem specialist Edward Johnson from GIA and Antique Road Show’s Joanna Hardy. www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk

29th – 4th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Week Two The second part of the Fair, which will also include a one-off exhibition featuring highlights from the pioneering career of leading 1960s British jeweller John Donald, as well as a showcase of chosen/favourite highlights, guest-curated by director of London’s Serpentine Gallery, Julia Peyton-Jones. www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk

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more to do! A Sense of Jewellery 15th September – 19th November, 2015 Atrium Gallery & Exhibition Room The Goldsmiths’ Centre London EC1

A Sense of Jewellery brings together outstanding examples of modern jewellery by 40 artists and designers made in Britain over the past 40 years. As part of the London Design Festival, the exhibition sets out to rediscover British jewellery design and celebrates the quality of design thinking and material innovation which has emerged from independent studios in this period. Jewels are one of the most intimate and oldest forms of human expression, seen in the extraordinary objects held in museums and personal collections worldwide. This free exhibition will unite pieces from the V&A, the Crafts Council, private patrons, artist collections and The Goldsmiths’ Company’s own collection to demonstrate how artists and designers continue to be drawn to this field of activity, inspired by its human and material histories.

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his unique combination of T British works has been put together by invited guest curators: Amanda Game, a leading UK independent curator and producer in the field of jewellery and silversmithing and Liveryman of The Goldsmiths’ Company and Professor Dorothy Hogg MBE, influential designer and former head of the School of Jewellery in Edinburgh. Major works by established artists such as Wendy Ramshaw CBE and Gerda Flockinger CBE will be shown alongside works by emerging makers from across the UK, such as Andrew Lamb and Zoe Arnold.

A Sense of Jewellery, as part of the London Design Festival, will also feature contemporary female artists and designers exploring themes of globalisation, identity and nanotechnology through jewellery design. Migrating Birds, led by jewellery designer Rita Patel, looks at women’s experiences of migrating to Birmingham, while enamel artist Elizabeth Turrell studies people’s group identity through the making and wearing of commemorative badges. Through What’s in My Stuff?, Maria Hanson collaborates with material scientists from Sheffield Hallam University to identify chemical components in mobile phones and to discover emotional connections between people and high technology devices through the making of contemporary jewellery objects. Among other highlights is a series of special events and film screenings in association with the Crafts Council looking at jewellery: its design, making and wearing from many perspectives.

Gem courtesy of Ramiro Rivero & Metals del Oriente S.R.L. Crystal courtesy of Michael Evans.

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology™ 104 Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3LA, UK T +44 (0) 207 813 4321 • E gialondon@gia.edu Registered Charity No: 1101116

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UNIFICATION ISSUE

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LAST WORD As the unification of the N.A.G. and The BJA has been ratified, it’s fitting that the Last Word of this special issue of The Jeweller should go to Kate Owen, the president of the British Allied Trades Federation. Personal profile: Kate Owen joined the gift trade back in the late ‘70s, following a hitching trip to the USA, where she was taught macramé by a hippy. Once back in the UK she put her new skill to good use by making knotted string, hanging planters (very popular back then!) and showed Opal Crafts at Spring Fair. By the early ‘80s they were being made in China and the range widened to include body care accessories. In 1990 the company was re-branded as Opal London. In 2001 Owen joined the Giftware Association National Committee and was its chairman between 2004-2006. Three years ago she joined the board of BATF, becoming its president last year (when she also sold her company).

What’s your favourite shopping destination? (shop, street, city or country!) West End London! It has everything, great shops, lots of buzz and ambience. And Hong Kong – street markets especially, the noise, the colour, the frenetic urgency of life in the city. Do you Tweet? No… well, rarely, I prefer to reflect to myself. I’m not a tweeter… What keeps you awake at night? When I was working on Opal London… taking too much on and panicking that I hadn’t completed everything. Now? Much the same… QUICK FIRE

Who has been the biggest influence on your life? I know it is almost cliché, but it has to be my wonderfully supportive, non-judgemental, intensely proud mother. My life choices and adventures have been so far removed from her experience and expectations, but she has loved and supported me throughout all the rollercoasters of my life. What led you to follow a career in the giftware industry? It was serendipity really – a chance encounter with a potsmoking dude in Kentucky! A complete lack of pre-considered life goals – I just jumped first then thought after! What three words describe you best.... in your view? My view? Erm… enthusiastic… impetuous… confident? and according to others? Hopefully some of the above, but sadly ‘scatty’ might feature and I’d like to think ‘thoughtful’ but maybe that’s wishful thinking. If not this business, what other? I’d choose no other career – I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the last 30 plus years in one of the most exciting industries. I can’t see beyond being in this business – nothing appeals outside of this one… sorry.

78 THE JEWELLER

JULY 2015

• Two wheels or four? Four and fast • Fish ‘n’ chips or fruits de mer? Fruits de mer • TV or radio? Radio • Jewellery on men? (Yes or No?) NO apart from good watches

How, in your view, does the UK giftware market measure up against the rest of the world, in terms of creativity/ innovation/design? We’re second to NONE! British design is far and away streets ahead. I always think you can categorise some national styles – we can look at a display and think: that’s very American, or I can see another display is, say, French. But Brit style is quirky, eclectic and evolves constantly. If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? The 1920s! Imagine the decadence, the style, those glorious dresses and very dapper gents, stylish automobiles (don’t call them ‘cars’ darling!) and time for tea…

What’s your guiltiest pleasure? Champagne – without having to have an occasion! Tell us something not many people know about you.... I’m pretty well an open book – and if there was anything that I don’t give away, then it’s best kept that way!

“ The 1920s! Imagine the decadence, the style, those glorious dresses and very dapper gents, stylish automobiles (don’t call them ‘cars’ darling!) and time for tea…”

• Delegator or control freak? Delegating control freak – I want someone to do it… but it should be done right and my way!! I think this is a bit of a weakness. • Cosy night in or wild night out? Cosy with good company and good wine • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback

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