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I N D U S T R Y
Gems&Jewellery IN CONJUNCTION WITH
May/Jun
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Basel World 2015 Flint from Kefal onia Synth etic d iamon d pro duc
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5 / Volu
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In this issue watch Market Trends and developments Celebrating N.A.G. Education Awards Highlights from BaselWorld 2015
CONTENTS & CONTACTS
A celebration of Graduate achievements Editor’s Letter
5
Michael Makes His Point
7
Industry News
8
N.A.G. Roundup
14
Gemstones: Emerald
28
Business Support: Security
30
Member Benefits: Mystery Shoppers
45
Flying the Flag
46
Brand Profile: Tateossian
56
At the Bench: Mounting
58
Business Support: Insurance
60
19
The hard work of JET graduates is acknowledged at Goldsmiths’ Hall
31
Glittering Prizes Highlights from the 2015 Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship Design Competition
Wrist Action Belinda Morris reports on trends and developments in the watch market
32
Where to Go, What to See… And What to Read
62
The Classifieds
64
Last Word
66
May/June 2015 / Volume 24 / No. 3
BaselWorld 2015 Flint from Kefalonia Synthetic diamond production in Sweden
Gems&Jewellery Including a review of BaselWorld 2015, flint from Kefalonia, synthetic diamond production in Sweden, Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and more…
COVER IMAGE In conjunction with Junkers Bauhaus Contact: Hans Brandt Sales Director Pointtec UK Ltd Tel: 07837 900281 Email: pointtec@mail.com www.pointtec.co.uk (Ref: 6050M-2, Bauhaus Automatic ETA 2824-2)
50
Jeweller Picks Our selection from the among the high-end watches and jewellery on show at BaselWorld
The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com Sales Director: Ian Francis The National Association Tel: 020 7749 1705 of Goldsmiths Fax: 020 7729 0143 78a Luke Street, ian.francis@jewellers-online.org London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 Publishing Enquiries/ www.jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford CEO: Michael Rawlinson neil.oakford@jewellers-online.org michael.rawlinson@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Editor: Belinda Morris Andrew Fellows, bmorris@colony.co.uk Christopher Hamilton Art Director: Ben Page ben.page@jewellers-online.org The N.A.G. is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The N.A.G. accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3
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COMMENT
Editor’s Letter I accept that what I am about to admit here is to invite incredulity (at best) and very possibly scorn and derision. So, OK, here goes, I can take it – this year I visited BaselWorld for the first time. I know what you’re thinking… how did I manage to avoid… I mean resist… attending all those previous years? No matter, I have
This issue: “Legend has it that emerald could cure some diseases, and even had the power to reveal the future, if placed under the tongue (not to be recommended!)…” Page 28
now put matters right. I was there and I can now see what all the fuss is about.
Whether you’re excited, awestruck or even intimidated by the scale of the show in general, or the monumental booths of the global watch giants in particular (more small villages than ‘stands’), there’s no denying the sheer lavish opulence of it all. As one jewellery retailer put it to me: the Basel experience is a very graphic, pertinent reminder that ours truly is a luxury business; the event oozes prosperity. Even those not buying can’t help but be inspired by the atmosphere alone.
With a timepiece feature on the horizon, my visit to BaselWorld was obviously a useful fact-finding mission.
will be hoping for come mid-June when the membership will vote on the proposed N.A.G./BJA unification at
“Women are an important clientele for high-watchmaking… they care about the aesthetic, but they are getting more knowledgeable in terms of technical aspects…”
our AGM. As you can probably imagine, the anticipation of that event is mounting palpably. If you have any
Page 32
The choice of brands and diversity of directions out there is mind-boggling but, after a few hours of working the miles of aisles, the stand-out watch trends begin to present themselves. Turn to p32 for an overview of the market in all its glorious, infinite variety.
This issue isn’t all about time though. On page 19 we celebrate the achievements of the N.A.G.’s newest graduates – the sumptuous Goldsmiths’ Hall was the backdrop for an evening of awards, certificates and hearty back-slapping. The images certainly convey the sense of euphoria. Which is just the emotion that we
queries on this matter, Association News on p14 will, I hope, provide some answers.
Until then, I wish you a busy start to summer…
If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at bmorris@colony.co.uk
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5
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COMMENT
Michael makes his point I
n the wise words of John F. Kennedy: “Change is the law of life and those who look only to the past or present are certain to miss the future.” Well, we too have reached that point where we need to consider our own future. Your board of directors has tabled a resolution to be voted upon at the forthcoming AGM that, if approved, will give the go-ahead for the unification of the British Jewellers’ Association with the N.A.G. Our vision is to create a new organisation that can lead and support the UK jewellery industry to become stronger and more vibrant, inspiring consumers to own your creations and products and put their trust in our members’ professionalism. I firmly believe that the National Association of Jewellers can be the voice of the industry, speaking with confidence and authority to consumers, government and other stakeholders to advance the views and needs of the industry. And the NAJ can, with your
support, build and reinvigorate consumer confidence to buy jewellery and to see owning it, wearing it or gifting it as a precious and timeless token of love, joy and happiness. You can read more on why your board thinks this move is the right way forward, and what the new organisation intends to do on your behalf, on page 14. If you have already made up your mind why not act now and vote by proxy? You can of course also attend the AGM on 16th June and vote there in person. I must say I am very much looking forward to travelling to Exeter this month to attend a regional meeting of jewellers in the South West, while I also hope to be able to report back on a similar meeting to be held in Edinburgh very soon. There is so much to be gained in coming together in local groups to discuss issues such as security in the retail community or how to stimulate sales in your local high street. We can also support
I firmly believe that the National Association of Jewellers can be the voice of the industry, speaking with confidence and authority… to advance the views and needs of the industry.
specific training needs and build a true sense of community and shared objectives. Of course, on one level, local businesses are in competition but, on the other hand, surely it is better to work together to create a stronger desire in consumers to want to buy and own jewellery in preference to yet another electronic gizmo or a luxury holiday? Ultimately, though, we should always remember that together we’re stronger. As I call in on different member businesses around the country, I’m constantly struck by the diversity of store designs, layouts and product ranges. And it is this diversity that enables a number of jewellers to successfully operate in the same town or village without engaging in direct competition. For example, I was particularly impressed by EP Mallory and Sons when I visited them in Bath last month. The store has very cleverly and successfully used segmented spaces, on their ground, lower and mezzanine levels, to create ‘shop- in-shop’ experiences for different brands and product types. These include fine jewellery, watches, silverware and antique jewellery, as you would expect, but they also feature luxury accessories, including Mont Blanc pens with matching pen holders, wallets and belts, bags from the French fashion house Longchamp and glassware from Lalique. So it occurred to me that being part of the Allied Trades Federation, with the Giftware Association and the Luxury Travel Goods Association as members, might
perhaps bring added benefits we hadn’t even considered. Last month, the Goldsmiths’ Hall was opened to visitors attending the Make Your Mark event – two open days showcasing the great British jewellers and silversmiths of the future. Talks, demonstrations and exhibition stands provided an opportunity for those embarking upon or considering a career in our industry to meet with experts in their respective fields and be inspired. I was delighted to have the opportunity to make contact with specialist groups supporting many of the different trades that make up the jewellery and silversmithing industry and I very much hope that in the future the NAJ can play a key role in supporting and promoting every aspect of our trade. We need government support and investment, especially in skills training, to maintain and sustain these ancient crafts and I pledge my support to this worthy cause. Finally, I would like to personally thank Robert Eden for the sterling work he has undertaken to develop the Association’s membership over the past 14 months as well as refreshing and reviving our benefits package. He has been an important member of the team and I would like to wish him every success in his new role at CMJ.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 7
INDUSTRY NEWS
IJL reveals KickStarter line-up I
nternational Jewellery London’s annual KickStart Bursary Programme, supporting the best of design, offers 10 outstanding designers a place on the mentoring initiative. They will exhibit on a group stand at this year’s IJL Diamond Jubilee show and receive marketing and industry support from both IJL and the BJA. IJL’s trend partner, jewellery forecaster Adorn Insight, will again award one outstanding KickStarter with a year’s subscription to its
jewellery market intelligence resource and bespoke mentoring. The IJL 2015 KickStarter competition is now open to the industry to vote for the ‘People’s Choice’ – the designer considered the star to watch. Their prize is a free stand in the Design Gallery at IJL 2016. You can vote via: Twitter – tweet the name of the KickStarter with #KickStartVote; Instagram – post a picture of the KickStarter or product with #KickStartVote; Facebook – via the IJL Facebook page www.jewellerylondon.com/ kickstartvote or #KickStartVote The 2015 line-up includes: Flora Bhattachary – dramatic fine jewellery, inspired by her family’s links with India, mixing new technology with ancient traditions; Andrew Gold Neilson – from chemical engineering and his jewellery photographic
business, he went on to study stone-setting and jewellery manufacturing; Mirka Janeckova – London-based Czech jeweller inspired by the colour white, surrealism and the deep sea; Francesca Marcenaro – mixing different techniques (such as granulation and oxidisation) to create unusual, organic, tactile jewellery; Rosalie McMillan – striking collection combining recycled sterling silver and gold with a material derived from coffee grounds; Laura Parra – draws on a fine art and restoration background and combines traditional jewellery techniques with contemporary silversmithing; New Yorker Ilene Steel – bold unconventional style pays homage to her home city and London where she now works, and Colombian Ana Thompson – versatile fine jewellery inspired by the details of magnified natural structures.
Assay offices give base metal description guidance I
n response to a number of consumer and trade enquiries, the Assay Offices and the British Hallmarking Council now offer guidance concerning descriptions used at POS to describe the colour of base metal jewellery and watches. It refers to instances when the words gold, platinum, palladium or silver are used as adjectives to describe the colour of a product and are not intended to imply that the product is wholly or partly made of these precious metals. If an article contains no precious metal or is below minimum fineness and the words gold, platinum, palladium or silver are used purely as an adjective to describe colour, then the description must make this clear. The description must not directly or indirectly mislead the consumer into believing the article is wholly or partly made of precious metal. For example: ‘yellow metal watch’ or ‘gold coloured watch’ are acceptable descriptions.
THE JEWELS OF LONDON C
hristie’s Travel is hosting its fourth Jewellery Collectors Tour from 1st-4th June 2015 with a four-day London trip that includes behind-the-scenes experiences and access to exceptional private jewellery collections. The trip incorporates visits to ateliers and private views of exceptional gems and is hosted by David Warren, Christie’s Senior International Director of Jewellery, a globally recognised authority on emeralds, Cartier and Mughal jewellery. Experiences that are only available thanks to Christie’s inside access include a private viewing of the Crown Jewels followed by candlelit dinner in the Tower of London, a private tour of the V&A Jewellery Gallery and an evening dress dinner in a boardroom of Christie’s HQ: guests may select precious jewels to wear for the evening. The Jewels of London trip costs from £3,400 per person. Visit www.christies.com/travel
8 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE JAN/FEB 2015 2015
Amore offers bespoke service
T
he Hertfordshire-based jewellery maker, Amore, has launcheda service allowing retailers to stock and offer customers a bespoke service. Any piece may be selected from the Amore Oro gold collection with any combination of gem(s), to create one-off pieces featuring diamonds and a wide choice of gemstones. A catalogue shows the entire gold collection. Retailers and their customers can select their preferred design in either 9ct or 18ct yellow, white or rose gold, and choose any gemstone to create their own one-off piece.
Bransom EPOS workshops
B
ransom Retail Systems, developer of the bsmart2 Stock and EPoS system, has released the schedule of its workshop sessions. Supplementary to the training given at installation, the workshops allow both new and existing staff to become more familiar with the key elements of the various functions within bsmart2. Each session focuses on one module of the bsmart2 system and how to get the most out of it in daily business. For example, there are workshops on the till/EPoS system, Accounts, Repairs Management, Customer Marketing and Stocktaking. There is also a ‘Masterclass’ session, aimed at helping owners and managers use the tools within bsmart2 to improve their overall business.
Hatton Garden BID meeting success T
he Hatton Garden Business Improvement District development team hosted a drop-in session on 30th April, in order to let business owners know about the BID plans for the area. “The drop-in was a great success, with dozens of people from many of the local businesses – not just jewellers – popping by to find out what the BID is, how it works and what positive effects it will have on the area,” said BID chairman Gary Williams of Presman Mastermelt. He explained that there was a hugely positive reaction and overwhelming support for improving the Hatton Garden area, in preparation for the opening of the new Crossrail station at Farringdon in 2018. “As well as bringing in more financial support from the jewellery trade, we also received additional financial commitments, as well as ‘in kind’ support, from a diverse collection of businesses including an advertising company and a printer,” Williams added. “It is a very exciting time for businesses in the area, as making Hatton Garden a Business Improvement District will allow them to have their say on how best to make the area an exciting and safe place to visit, which will inevitably boost footfall and increase revenues, which with the local rents on the rise, is an absolute necessity.”
New AnchorCert Gem Lab site launches A
ssay Office Birmingham has launched a new website offering jewellery manufacturers and distributors independent and authoritative precious gemstone testing and grading. The new website, dedicated to the AnchorCert Gem Laboratory, is designed to promote testing and stone grading services to the UK and international jewellery trades, offering simple, relevant information tailored to those seeking independent white diamond, coloured diamond, gemstone and pearl reports. Following the rise in concerns about synthetic diamonds filtering into the global diamond market, Gem Lab offers an assurance to clients that each stone passing through the lab is tested by expert gemmologists and graders to confirm what it is and whether it has undergone any treatments or enhancements such as fracture filling, irradiation and laser treatments. Launched to coincide with the upcoming move of the Assay Office Birmingham to a new facility in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, the site has several new features. A digital order form for stone grading reports, enables clients to submit a form online in advance of sending in a stone or piece of jewellery. An online quotation form allows clients to request quotes for reports by filling out details of the diamond or gemstone in question. http://anchorcertgemlab.com
S N I P P E T S Connoisseurs launch new website Jewellery care business Connoisseurs is to raise its consumer profile with a new website, with the aim of supporting its retail partners by increasing footfall. Due to go live later this month, the very comprehensive website will outline the various ‘beauty treatments’ for jewellery, giving detailed guidance on how to use the US-made products and, importantly, where to buy them. The site will not sell direct to the consumer, but instead direct them to jewellery retailers within a 10-mile radius of the potential purchaser, as well as those jewellers selling online. “We believe that the (glamorous and professional) jewellery store is the best retail environment to buy these products,” says Connoisseurs UK’s Philip Goodman.
CIBJO launches Coral Blue Book At the CIBJO Congress in Salvador, Brazil, final amendments were agreed on the new Coral Blue Book. Prepared by the Coral Commission, it provides definitive sets of grading standards and nomenclature for an industry in which there is an almost complete absence of harmonised system endorsed by the International Standards Organization (ISO). CIBJO’s other Blue Books cover diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, precious metals and gemmological laboratories. A copy of the Coral Blue Book will be downloadable from CIBJO’s website within the next three months.
Gem design competition winners announced Nicola Fabian of Glasgow Kelvin College has won first prize in the Scottish Gemmological Association’s ‘GemSet 15’ Jewellery Design Competition. Second prize went to Julia Bauer of City of Glasgow college and third prize to Elke Mane Frerichs of Carnegie College. The gemstone-themed competition is open to jewellery course students from Scottish colleges. Among this year’s guest judges – who were appointed by Edinburgh-based jeweller Alistir Wood Tait – was retail jeweller Michael Laing of Laings of Edinburgh. Alistir Wood Tait, a specialist in antique, vintage and fine jewellery, is a Fellow of the IRV and Gem-A.
Rapaport calls for increased diamond profitability Martin Rapaport has released a comprehensive editorial entitled ‘Market Correction’ that calls on the diamond trade to end unsustainable business practices. Citing the imbalance between high rough and low polished diamond prices, he calls on the banks to stop financing unprofitable diamond manufacturing until polished prices rebound and profitability returns. He urges the trade to prioritise the purchase of polished diamonds over rough and encourages the industry to promote confidence in diamonds by supporting competition among buyers who provide transparent, firm bid prices.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 9
INDUSTRY NEWS
Students’ work sells at Theo Fennell J
ewellery designed by five students is now available for the public to buy in Theo Fennell’s Fulham Road store moving later to the designer’s concession in Selfridges. In December 2014, Theo Fennell presented a selection of students in their final year of Central Saint Martins’ BA jewellery course with five different stones, setting them the challenge to design a piece of jewellery incorporating one of the five stones. The awarded stones were then made up to their design, by the craftsmen in Theo Fennell’s Fulham Road workshop. The students oversaw the creation of their one-of-a-kind piece from start to finish and worked closely with some of the country’s most experienced and talented craftsmen. Sarah Howson worked with a padparadscha sapphire, Leonid Dementiev a tsavorite garnet, Zuleika Penniman a golden beryl, Tiffany Baehler a green tourmaline and Lola (Ying) Lou a pink tourmaline.
BJA boosts Fairtrade’s ‘I Do’ campaign T
he BJA has combined forces with the Fairtrade Foundation to further boost the Foundation’s already successful ‘I Do’ campaign with a competition for UK designers wishing to work or already working in Fairtrade gold. The competition asks designers to create a matching wedding and engagement ring set featuring a 50pt round brilliant-cut lab certified, ethically-sourced diamond and up half a carat of small stones, all of which abide by the Kimberley Process regulations. The winning designer will work closely with the Birmingham manufacturer Hockley Mint to make the rings in Fairtrade gold which will be gifted by the company. The diamonds will be gifted by diamond dealer Clark Diamonds. Entries close on 1st June, 2015, and the final piece will be finished ready for pre-IJL publicity by 24th July.
Jacobs competition R
eading jeweller Jacobs the Jewellers together with the Goldsmiths’ company, is supporting a design competition and exhibition that has been organised by the Bishopsland Educational Trust, a jewellery design postgraduate course provider based in South Oxfordshire. Eight young Bishopsland-based jewellery designers will showcase one piece of silver and one piece of jewellery, competing for best design in each category. The public will be able to view these between 2nd – 20th June, voting for their favourite design in each category at Jacobs’ shop. All votes will go in a prize draw to win a £250 gift certificate.
10 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE JAN/FEB 2015 2015
S N I P P E T S Gemstone specialist launches jewellery UK-based ASR Gems, which has been supplying coloured stones to the industry for many years, has recently launched a collection of contemporary and classic fine jewellery. Initially revolving around engagement and statement rings, the collection is due to expand to include earrings and pendants – all with an emphasis on gemstones and diamonds. Via its website the company offers its customers a personal service to create bespoke pieces, while the on-line presence has allowed ASR Gems to ‘bring affordable luxury’ through its cost-savings.
Carat* partners 2015 Baftas For the fifth year running luxury fashion jewellery brand Carat* was chosen as the Official Jewellery Partner to the House of Fraser British Academy Television Awards, which were held earlier this month. Nominees and celebrity attendees were given the chance to choose from a collection of statement pieces – perfect for the red carpet and no need for hovering bodyguards.
Hockley Mint gains RJC certification Birmingham-based jewellery manufacturer Hockley Mint is among a handful of global businesses that achieved Responsible Jewellery Council certification last month. The RJC has announced that it will introduce the role of executive director in place of a CEO. Long-serving COO Catherine Sproule will work with the ED to provide continuity to the RJC’s global structure.
Wylde opens Bond Street pop-up UK jewellery designer Nicholas Wylde is launching his bespoke diamond collection with a pop-up shop in Fenwick of Bond Street, London. The Wylde Flower Diamond® shop will be open until 1st June. Wylde, who has shops in Bath and Bristol, celebrated 25 years in the jewellery business by creating the Wylde Flower Diamond® – which is hand-cut in such a way as to make it appear 10 per cent larger than and ‘outshine’ a more traditional round diamond.
Stone prices soar at sale Rubies, sapphires and emeralds were among the best-sellers at Bonhams’ first London sale of 2015, with fierce bidding taking place in the saleroom, on the telephone and online from global buyers. The Fine Jewellery sale achieved £4.34 million, with 83 per cent sold by value. One highlight of the sale was a 21.27 ct sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring which sold for £290,500, more than three times its estimate.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Hirsch Red Dot Award F
amily-owned, Swiss watchstrap company Hirsch, which this year celebrates 250 years of leather specialism and 70 years of making watch bracelets, has received the prestigious Red Dot product design award for its innovative ‘Performance’ collection and record sales in 2014. The Red Dot Award is an international product competition, which attracted almost 5,000 entries from around 2,000 companies in 56 countries this year. Among 2014’s winners were Apple, BMW and Sony. Hirsch’s Performance Collection bracelet styles, which combine leather and rubber, are 300m water-resistant, suitable for those with skin sensitivity and sauna-tested. The design (with seven style variations) fits well with large, sturdy, sporty-looking watches.
Bushby’s New watch G
iles Bushby, a founder of Fossil UK and its MD for many years, and Raj Sedha (owner of Watches R Us) have launched Swiss Emporio “This is an outstanding quality Swiss-made product at a price unattainable to other manufacturers,” said Bushby. “The watches are offered in channels which have been looking for Swiss but have been unsuccessful due to brand profiles and adjacency issues”.
Casio opens Harrods pop-up has opened its biggest C asio pop-up shop on Harrods’ fifth floor, focused on its G-Shock and Edifice watch collections. The 949 sq ft shop (its third with the store) will be open until 19th July, and will feature a large central globe unit to illustrate Global Time Sync, Casio’s latest technological enhancement. This allows its timepieces to receive one of six time calibration signals from around the world and acquire real time information from GPW satellites, updating the watch according to the user’s location. From August to September, Casio will also be touring UK cities including Manchester and Birmingham.
“The fashion watch segment of the market was due to be shaken down as the country emerged from recession,” he added, “and we realised that the market would need brands which had a reason for being in the market – not just another ‘me-too’ watch with a fashion label on it.” There are five families ranging from a RRP of £79 to £99, each consisting of six styles within the same case shape.
New Raymond Weil musical partnership S
wiss watchmaker Raymond Weil has partnered with classic violinist Nicola Benedetti to present its new 34mm ladies watch, Toccata, a feminine model in rose or yellow gold PVD plated steel with a rounded sapphire crystal. The mother of pearl dials display a simple musical score and diamond indexes. Nicola’s charity work for music education will be supported by Raymond Weil throughout 2015. The brand has also created, with the artist, a special limited edition of 300 units – a chocolate-brown version of the Toccata, set with 91 diamonds.
Clogau’s Timepieces I
nspired by its heritage, Welsh gold jewellery brand Clogau has launched its Timepieces collection. Taking as its theme the ‘Tree of Life’ pattern (featuring in many of its jewellery designs) the three new models incorporate the filigree and rose gold tone for the case and bracelet. They will be available with turquoise, pink and cream enamel dials. Later this year the brand will launch a second design – Cariad – a rose steel cuff-style watch inscribed with the Welsh term of endearment, ‘Cariad’.
12 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE JAN/FEB 2015 2015
Watch website for tradE is a new W atchTraderUK website aimed at trade buyers looking for luxury (largely) pre-owned watch brands. The idea for the site was conceived, designed and developed following a conversation with a local jeweller who felt it must be possible for a wider stock offering to be available between UK jewellers. Interested buyers and sellers must first register and once applications have been screened for approval, makes and models of watches can be uploaded to the seller’s own advertisement (which they manage) and buyers are free to shop. There is no commitment after the six month free trial period and subscription packages start from £1 per day plus VAT using a secure payment gateway. www.watchtraderuk.com.
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u o Y r
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
Members’ Days prepare for unification vote
are now just a few weeks away from our Annual General Meeting, when the membership will be W easked to vote on the proposed unification of the N.A.G. and the BJA. We will shortly be sending out
AGM information packs, with the notification of the resolution, but in addition we would like to give members the opportunity to ask any questions that they may have. On Wednesday 20th May (10.30 am-12.30 pm)) we will be hosting a Members’ Day at our offices in Luke Street in London, where Association officers will be on-hand to answer any last-minute queries and concerns. Members of the Unification Working Group will also be available to speak to on 27th May (1.00-3.30 pm) at Federation House, Vyse Street, Birmingham. For further details please send an email to: eleonore.beahan@jewellers-online.org. In the meantime, we have received a number questions from members, which have been answered here. A fuller and more detailed ‘Q&A’ session is featured in the AGM pack. Q: Why haven’t we unified before? A: Good question! Attempts have been made in the past, but it is complicated as the two bodies are different types of legal entity and we believe the complexity was even greater when this was attempted previously. Q: How many N.A.G. members need to vote in favour of the unification? A: 50% +1 of the votes cast (a simple majority) need to be in favour of the unification. The more members that vote, and the more that vote in favour of the unification, the stronger the mandate will be, so please use your vote. Q: How quickly will things change if the members agree to the unification? A: The votes are to instruct the boards of N.A.G. and BJA to proceed with the unification. While much of the work has been done in advance, we have not incurred any unnecessary expenses until the result is known. The aim is to complete the process during the second half of 2015. At the beginning of 2016 all members would renew into the new association – the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) – which would be fully operational. Q: The newly formed NAJ is to become a member of the British Allied Trades Federation (BATF). What is this? A: The BATF is a holding body, currently with five divisions, one of which is the BJA. This very wellresourced organisation provides all the non-industry-specific support services that a trade association requires such as: accounts, IT support, legal services and facilities management. Because these are provided to all the other associations as well, the costs are shared creating economies of scale and producing very competitive rates. Q: What control, if any, will the Federation have over the NAJ’s assets? A: None. They will be held within the NAJ for the use of its members, the jewellers. Q: What member benefits will there be? A: The two associations both offer benefits to members. These lists overlap and, while some benefits are specific to certain types of business, there will be others which will immediately become available to members of both associations. As a larger group, we will also be in a much stronger position to negotiate new benefits and better terms on some existing benefits.
South West regional meeting Tuesday 19th May the Association will be holding a meeting in the Havana Lounge in Queen Street, O nExeter, to discuss the potential of the reformation of the N.A.G. South West Group. Members interested in joining such a group are welcome to come along. Contact Damian Miles on oysterservices@tiscali.co.uk.
Farewell to robert
we have to say goodbye to Robert Eden who has worked tirelessly for the past 18 months as the S adly Association’s membership development manager. Thanks to him the member benefits we offer have
never been stronger or more comprehensive. Robert leaves us to join the CMJ and we wish him well.
14 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Join the EDF Congress to ‘engage your customers’
T
he Executive Development Forum (EDF) is to host its annual EDF Congress on Wednesday 10th June, 2015. Open to all N.A.G. members, it will be held at the Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel in Oxford and the theme this year will revolve around ‘engaging your customers by engaging your staff’. As EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson explains, the jewellery market is becoming more and more competitive each year, with new products, new brands, initiatives, stores and websites. “So we all have to be smarter in our thinking and approach as to how we want to be perceived by our customers, as ultimately it’s how we make them feel that will attract and retain their custom – because people are people and on the whole we behave according to how we feel.” Delegates will be asked to consider: “Are you the first choice for your customers? Are your employees enthusiastic about your business and proud to work for you?” According to a survey conducted by the EDF, the average staff turnover over the last five years has been 46 per cent, and last year 48 per cent of the membership said staffing was their biggest concern. The Hay Group found that 94 per cent of the world’s most admired companies believe that their efforts to engage employees have created a competitive advantage, while the two most critical challenges in delivering sustainable business success are employees and customer relationships according to the FT. Donaldson adds: “We encourage everyone to join us to hear how the EDF can help your business.”
Letter to the editor A
s an N.A.G. member, we recently received a short summary of the BJA/ N.A.G. merger plans to date in the mail. I thought it was a neatly produced and succinct note. It was good to receive clear communication on the plans; the current mix of email and direct mail is eminently sensible. There was one point of clarification I was curious about. Under the general heading of ‘increased consumer confidence’, would this include increasing public awareness of jewellery/watches as a positive and ‘front of mind’ product category purchase? This as opposed to iPads, technology, TVs, etc., which to me seem to dominate disposable income targeting marketing. I feel this is a really important structural challenge that our trade has wrestled with in the last decade and will continue to compete against. To my mind, the old ‘Shadows’ and ‘Trilogy’ campaigns by de Beers were not only iconic but also successful and enormously enduring in customers’ minds. That historic, proactive category marketing was ahead of its time and ideal
for this very moment in our industry’s continuing evolution. I suspect and hope the merger might free up/generate funds to programme a communications effort to this strategic goal. Would the committee/s care to comment? I will be voting ‘yes’ to the proposal and look forward to a successful merger in 2015. Adam Jacobs, Jacobs, Reading
The NAJ has stated one of its core aims is to increase consumer confidence in the purchase of jewellery and watches. This will be achieved through the combination of a number of different activities. Firstly through a strong code of conduct we will ensure that NAJ members operate professionally and honestly with integrity. Where a member has been found to have breached the code, appropriate action will be taken. Undertaking a full blown consumer marketing campaign does not come without a significant cost. However, we will be looking at every opportunity through marketing and PR channels to promote and encourage the buying and wearing of jewellery and watches. Michael Rawlinson, N.A.G. CEO
jet teaser sessions F
or those jewellery retailers who have yet to take advantage of the Association’s JET education courses – either for their staff or themselves – we’re offering the opportunity to come up to speed. This July we will be holding two JET Introduction sessions: one on the 8th July in the Yorkshire area and another on the 9th July, to be held in the south west of the country. During each of the days attendees will be able to learn about the courses and there will even be a little tuition thrown in… free of charge! The venues will be confirmed shortly and we will be sending out flyers outlining all the relevant details.
Calling all golfers T
he 2015 N.A.G. Challenge Trophy will be held on Monday 13th July at Fulford Golf Course, York (famous for hosting the Benson & Hedges televised competitions). The day includes coffee and a sustaining bacon sandwich; a briefing on the course, scoring and itinerary; 18 holes of golf; 18-hole putting competition; an excellent afternoon tea; champagne reception; dinner and awards. There are prizes for almost everything (with many sponsors – anyone wishing to sponsor a hole, or any other opportunities, please contact Frank Wood). There will be a professional photographer around and about to capture the action shots (without getting in your way). This event is open to all in the trade as well as family/guests (those from outside the industry are also welcome). The day will also provide an opportunity to raise funds for the Centenary Trust charity, which focuses on education within the industry. The costs are: • N.A.G. Members whole golf day £70.00 + VAT • Non N.A.G. Members whole golf day £80.00 + VAT Contact Frank on tel: 01904 625274 or email: golf@braithwaitesjewellers. com or for a booking form. Payment can be made via company card and VAT receipts will be sent on request.
New member applications To ensure that N.A.G. members are aware of new applications for membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications should email: membership@jewellersonline.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue. Full Member Applications • Forristals Jewellers, Ireland • Townhall Treasure, Cumbria • Adams Gold t/a Bella Diamonds, London • Jewels UK, London Corporate Associate Applications • Radiant Diamond Consulting, Kent
Personal Associate Applications • Heidi Nicola Byrne, Flintshire • Caren Braithwaite, Horsham • Kathryn May, Cranford • Tara Jayne Yeats, Andover • Nicole Powell, Bradford-on-Avon
IRV applications
New Member Applicants • Teresa J Laker PJDip PJGemDip, Aurum Holdings Ltd, Leicester Upgrading from Member to Fellow • Tim Bicknell DGA, Alistair Stewart, Chelmsford. • Alan Wetherall PJDip FGA DGA, Cellini, Cambridge
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 15
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
MEMBER of the
MONTH
This year Weldons of Southport (and Sarasota, USA) celebrates its 100th anniversary, so we spoke to owner Nigel Weldon to learn a little about the store’s story. What is the history of Weldon’s? Weldons was founded by my late grandfather, Louis Weldon. In the 1901 census, he was down as a jewellery traveller using his then last name of Cohen. In late 1914 he looked into opening a store in Wheldon Road, Castleford. I can’t confirm whether he opened the store, but he did change his name at that time to Weldon, dropping the ‘h’. By 1915 he’d moved to Southport and opened Weldons, selling furniture, antiques and jewellery. Some of his six sons followed into the family business: Leonard who sold antiques and jewellery, Sidney, who became a member of the London Diamond Bourse and was well known around the jewellery quarter, and my late father Herbert, who after serving in the RAF in WWII, opened a furniture and antique store on Eastbank Street just yards from the original family store. When did you get involved with the business? From the age of 11 I was buying and selling coins from my father’s store, purchasing my first piece of antique silver at 12, and then going on to antique watches. It was a natural progression to continue the family business. (Things may have turned out differently – when I was 18 MI6 tried – unbeknownst to me – to recruit me!) My father let me take over what had been the store’s carpet department at a different location, and turn it into an antique store. Within the year I had reintroduced jewellery with Uncle Sid supplying me
16 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
pre-owned pieces. Such was the success of the store, that my father, closed the furniture store. How has the business developed since? Over the ensuing years, the stock of general antiques diminished with antique and modern jewellery increasing, the store eventually moving to larger premises where it is now in Lord Street. The range is very eclectic from exquisite antique jewellery to new modern silver, suiting all tastes and pockets. Obviously, antique and collectible jewellery is the prime stock. After dabbling with several Swiss watch companies through the years, we ditched them all in favour of Seiko and Jean Pierre, with whom we have had a happy association going back over 30 years. How long has Weldons been an N.A.G. member? Weldons joined the N.A.G. in 1987. We have used the legal advice services for confirmation of our own views when dealing with ludicrous accusations by impossible clients… but haven’t we all?! We arranged with the Association for a talk to all the Southport jewellers who were interested when infilled diamonds first started turning up. How did the States’ store come about? While on a visit to Sarasota in Florida I realised that I could buy in the USA and sell at home. Within a few days, I’d set up an export business back to the Southport shop. Since then
I’ve made many connections with jewellery dealers, antique stores and pawn brokers throughout Florida, who keep me in mind when they receive jewellery that I’m searching for. Eventually I decided to open a store in Sarasota. I finally found the ideal unit and Weldons Jewelry and Antiques opened on Gulf Gate Drive in July last year. It’s not so easy to open a store there – numerous permits to acquire, licenses, tax documents and registration – if you think it’s tough in England, you’ve seen nothing like USA red tape! Who runs the US store? My youngest daughter Tamara joined the team, first as an employee, and now as a partner. She had to fly out to the USA before we opened to be vetted by the FBI (as I was also) before we could get the second-hand dealers licence. She passed a gemmology course and now blinds me with gemmological science every chance she gets! I bow to her superior knowledge and hope she can add to it by learning the values of jewellery too and how to spot something special when she sees it. It has to come from experience; I’ve been doing this for 50 years but learn more everyday.
Do you have an online presence? These days you have to keep up with technological advances. The business is completely computerised and as well as a website we’re on Etsy, Pinterest and Facebook. As I spend more time in the USA than the UK, Skype is also a useful tool – being able to view both stores online from anywhere in the world on your phone is an asset. Do you have any amusing customer anecdotes? Where do I start – I have a collection of them! My grandfather used to say: “Customers are like thieves; you never know when they are coming” – so true! You can be having a quiet day when someone comes in, walking out 30 minutes later having made your week, never mind your day. Conversely, a lady came in when we were very busy one Christmas, spent over an hour selecting a small silver St. Christopher and a chain for less than £15 while other customers were waiting, and then brought it back after Christmas to change it, spending another hour before deciding she would just take a credit note! We have an imaginary ‘trap door piranha dip’ at the front of the store for such customers!
Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)
Perfection in Enamel by Saturno
Distributed by Remane Brothers Ltd john@remanegems.com
www.remanebros.co.uk
CELLINI Cellini, one of the country’s most prestigious jewellers, designing and making their own jewellery, are currently recruiting for a Sales Consultant for their Cambridge showroom.
• This full-time position would suit an articulate, confident person, ideally with an established sales record, preferably in a high value environment, willing to learn from a highly motivated and successful team in order to provide an outstanding customer experience.
• Applicants at any stage of their career will be considered as full training will be provided.
• If you feel you have the necessary qualities please apply by post to: Peter Hering c/o Cellini Pearls Ltd, 4 Rose Crescent, Cambridge CB2 3LL or email your details to: peter.hering@cellini.co.uk
N.A.G. Presentation of Awards 2015
Congratulations to all successful graduates!
FOCUS ON EDUCATION
A celebration of achievements In March, leading lights of the industry, tutors, students, colleagues and friends convened at the historic Goldsmiths’ Hall in London to acknowledge and celebrate the achievements of the Association’s newest graduates. The Awards – a highlight of the jewellery industry calendar – took place against the jaw-droppingly resplendent backdrop of the Livery Hall. As N.A.G. president Margaret Harris explained in her opening address, it took all the gold leaf that existed in the country in 1835, when the Hall was rebuilt, to decorate its moulded ceiling. An apt setting for the industry’s latest shining lights. On being handed the floor, CEO Michael Rawlinson reminded us that it is the people in this business that make the difference, as he quoted Robert Ludlam: “The most precious jewels are not made of stone, but of flesh”. As well as congratulating the graduates, he thanked the many, often unsung, individuals that ensure the smooth running and success of the N.A.G. courses.
20 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
His roll call included the education team at Luke Street as well as tutors, advisors and supporters and those working on the Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT). Making reference to the proposed unification with the BJA, Rawlinson said that the JET programme would continue with the new Association: “A new future beckons”. Greenough trophy winner Helen Nathan with N.A.G. president Margaret Harris and N.A.G. chairman Andrew Hinds
The real business of the evening began with Bransom’s Chris Garland congratulating the 2014 winners of the monthly JET1 Project Award, which is sponsored by the retail systems company. “You’re on the first steps of a well-trodden path and the rewards will follow… to ensure the continued growth of the jewellery industry,” he told them. It was then the turn of all those who had achieved their Professional Jewellers’ Diploma, JETPlus Diploma, JETPro Full Diploma and CAT to step up to receive their certificates. Also applauded was Alistir Wood Tait who is now a Fellow of the Institute of Registered Valuers. Each year the Greenough Trophy is awarded to the student who achieves the highest aggregate marks and the most outstanding project in the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma programme and this year it was the work of Helen Nathan of Woods Jewellers in Coulsdon. Her name will join those of past recipients on the inscribed silver trophy, which was first awarded in 1946. The evening also provided the perfect opportunity to acknowledge and award one gentleman who has worked behind the scenes, supporting and contributing to the education department for 50 years.
Chris Bransom with the winners of the monthly JET1 Project Award, sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems
Moderator and long standing friend Peter Troth paid tribute to tutor Eddie Stanley, highlighting his attention to detail, depth of knowledge, experience in the education field and willingness to help. Through him, Troth said, the Association, the trade, the students and ultimately the customers have gained. “He has tried to retire a couple of times, but we have always persuaded him not to!” he added.
If you’re considering taking one of our courses and are perhaps feeling a little daunted by the prospect, Greenough Trophy-winner Helen Nathan’s experience should offer encouragement… Were you aware of the Greenough Trophy while taking the course? When I started the JET course, I wasn’t, no. I had heard of the Bransom Awards and was delighted when I received my results, achieving a A* Distinction, but was absolutely overwhelmed when I was told that I had been selected to receive the Greenough Trophy – unbelievable! It just goes to show that with a little hard work and dedication, anything is possible, even at my age! What was your route into the jewellery industry? I’d been a regular customer in Woods for several years prior to working there and always enjoyed looking round and chatting to all the lovely staff. My son worked there as a Saturday boy while he was still at school; in his gap year he increased his working hours, remaining there for a further year. I’d been a secretary for over 30 years and was at a stage in my life where I was considering
doing something else. When my son was about to leave Woods to continue his studies they offered me a job. That was over three years ago and I haven’t looked back since! How have you found the coursework? With JET1, I was a little apprehensive – I hadn’t done anything quite like this since leaving school (38 years ago!). But doing well with each assignment gave me confidence. Obviously, JET2 was more intense with quite a lot more to learn. As I began the final project I was really into it. I particularly enjoyed the project where I had to select jewellery to go with the Little Black Dress, answer questions and compose compere notes. Being so interested in both fashion and jewellery it was a perfect project for me! I studied on my day off, during evenings and weekends. It was hard work but the rewards and what I have gained have been well worth it. I am now considering doing a jewellery display course – it would be
really beneficial to me and my working day. Does Woods have a tradition of encouraging staff education? Before I joined, a member of the team had already been put through the JET Diploma course and has now almost completed Gem-A’s Gemmology Diploma course. I had only been working there for four months before I began JET1 and then went on to complete JET2. Another member of staff has just completed the JET1 and will commence with JET2 shortly. Woods has funded all of these and has really invested in their staff. How do you think the course and award will benefit your working life and your career? To receive such a prestigious award is an absolute honour and has given me a renewed confidence in my work, which I hope I will be able to pass on to my customers. What’s the best part about your job? As a well-established, familyrun jewellers we have regular,
long-standing customers. We’re also seeing an increase in our clientele thanks to ‘word of mouth’ and social media. I really enjoy interacting with customers – you get to know the person and develop an understanding of what they like and what suits them. They come to trust you and really value your judgement and advice. It’s such a nice feeling knowing that you have been able to help someone, whether they’re purchasing for themselves or a gift. They’re so appreciative and leave our store happy – what more could you ask?
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 21
FOCUS ON EDUCATION
After receiving his long-standing achievement award, a surprised but appreciative Mr Stanley told us about his long career… What was your first job in the jewellery industry? In 1958 I became a trainee manager with a national retail jeweller located in Manchester. I rose to senior management level with a high class private established jewellery company, where I was responsible for training and personal development of 26 staff.
Mark Aldestone, chairman of Beaverbrooks (fifth from right), with all his successful Beaverbrooks colleagues
It escaped no-one’s notice that one stand-out group of students this year were all Beaverbrooks colleagues (19 in total, 16 of them JET2ers), and it’s no secret that chairman Mark Adlestone is an enthusiastic advocate of education. “It’s always been important to us, but when I started attending the Awards about 20 years ago my interest in it grew – it’s such an uplifting, fantastic evening,” he explains. “And my involvement with the education department at the N.A.G. enhanced my interest.” The retailer’s commitment to education is evidenced in the fact that the JET1 course is compulsory for all sales and HQ staff after 12 months employment (or even sooner in some cases). “We then strongly encourage them to move on to JET2 – we’ve really increased internal awareness of the courses,” he says. “My biggest desire is to take the fear out of learning; many people haven’t taken exams for many years, so I’m really pleased that it was agreed to drop the exams in favour of introducing an assignment. “The assignment demonstrates understanding and engagement with the course and I simply want to help people to be better educated for the benefit of customers as well as themselves. The Awards evening is the highlight of the year for us.” Liz Cole of Flitwick Jewellers was at the ceremony to collect her JETPro Full Diploma. “Dictating my own deadline was invaluable as I work part-time and am a mother of two,” she explains. “It was also very useful to know that my tutor was easily contactable via email; he was very good at coming back to me with advice and pointers after my modules had been assessed.” So, having taken other JET courses, how did she find JETPro? “Each topic was challenging in its own way. I found those on finance, budgets and forecasts quite tricky – it’s not an area I’ve dealt with much, but it was incredibly interesting. The modules regarding customer care and ways to promote the business were particularly enjoyable because that’s more where my experience lies. I am a thinker. What this course made me do is gather my thoughts and consider each area practically and in detail,” she adds. “The business has changed a huge amount since I joined in 1994. We need to change our thinking a lot, with regard to how we promote ourselves, how we budget, the design of the shop – in all aspects really. JETPro has given me more confidence to get my ideas into action. I would highly recommend all N.A.G. courses. You need to be able to put a lot of your time and thought into the courses, but the benefits in doing them are huge.”
22 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Did you undergo industry education during your career? I qualified with the Retail Jewellers Diploma, Fellowship of the Gemmological Association and the Post Graduate Diamond Grading Award, all studied at night school after a full working day in the retail trade. The late John Edwards, my gemmology tutor, and the late David Wilkins were both passionate about trade education and passed on their passion to me. They were specialists who could motivate and inspire students to reach their full potential in the jewellery trade. When did you first become involved in the N.A.G. courses? I replied to an invitation to join the Jewellers Training Scheme panel of correspondence course markers in 1964, and was appointed after a brief trial period. I progressed over the years to the Board of Examiners, rising to chief examiner and joined the moderators in the early 1970s. What drives you as far as tutoring is concerned? I am passionate about passing on trade education and helping others to reach their full potential in the jewellery or allied trades. Focus points are the development of curriculum course development, and producing an educationally sound assessment criterion for the JET Professional Jewellers’ Diploma Courses. What have been the highlights of your career? As a member of the N.A.G. Education Section changing the JET1 and JET2 courses from correspondence to online courses. Also being part of the Working JET2 Group, which developed the final JET2 Project that replaced the formal examination process of assessment. I was also a senior lecturer in the jewellery section of a further education college where I taught the Retail Jewellers’ Diploma, Gemmology to the Diploma standard and the Post Graduate Diamond Grading Course for 15 years. En route I gained a B.Ed. (Hons) degree and a Masters degree in education from Manchester Victoria University.
The two Bransom Award winners for the start of 2015 Our January winner of the coveted Bransom Award is Katherine Stanford of Richardson’s of Ampthill Ltd in Bedfordshire.
As with almost all the students that we speak to (award winners or not!) Katherine found all aspects of the JET1 course very useful. “It has deepened my knowledge, therefore given me confidence when serving a customer,” she explained. “But ‘diamonds’ was the section of the course I enjoyed the most; I find them a fascinating subject as there is so much to learn. “I would definitely recommend taking the JET1 course to anyone within the jewellery industry. What I have learnt is very valuable and I will continue to build on this body of knowledge. I hope to go onto complete JET2,” she added. Moderator Eddie Stanley commented: “Katherine’s final JET1 assignment gave the historical account of the discovery of diamonds. It was very interesting and informative and gave an obvious starting point for the project. The GIA grading system was fully explained and she made a comparison between it and the other accepted grading systems for diamonds. The use of the 10x loupe was also mentioned as being a very important tool to use when grading the gemstones. A great amount of research must have been undertaken in order to produce such a quality answer,” he added.
“I joined the jewellery industry in May last year,” she told us when we caught up with her. “I have always had an interest in jewellery, which peaked as I observed a jeweller in Cornwall design and make his own jewellery. When the opportunity arose to join Richardson’s of Ampthill I was excited to work with and study a craft I find fascinating.”
“An essential element of this work is the part dealing with the communication of diamond product knowledge to the customer. Final section dealing with the Victorian diamond ring commenced with a paragraph explaining the particular appearance of the ring. Customer care featured in this excellent answer, with practical hints on how to conduct the examination and evaluation of the diamond ring.”
So how did she feel about this early success? “I was extremely surprised and happy to be told I had won an award and I am very grateful for the encouragement from my boyfriend, family and workplace for helping me achieve this.”
Katherine’s tutor Don Taylor added his thoughts on her achievements: ‘[She] has worked consistently well throughout the course and deserves the ‘crowning glory’ of the award. I am very proud as I am sure are her family, friends and colleagues. Well done Katherine.”
February’s winner is Leanne Doyle of Temprell jewellers in Nottingham, who began in retail after completing a Decorative Arts Degree. “I wanted to follow a route that would allow me to express some more refined creativity alongside this,” she explained to us. “Jewellery has been a strong interest of mine for many years and I started working for Temprell a year ago, having always aspired to work for them. My passion for this area continues to grow. “I was grateful for the recognition of this award and it felt a very positive way to end the course. I had worked hard to read around the subject matter for each of the assignments and fully grasp each area. It has added to my confidence that I achieved more than what I set out to.” Would she recommend the course to others? “The JET1 course was thoroughly enjoyable and I found it fitted in perfectly for my first year within the business. I found it generated discussions with my colleagues and I tried to link the assignments with my day-to-day role as much as possible. I found each chapter very useful but especially diamond grading. This cemented my knowledge on an area I find fascinating; it has helped my ability to confidently educate customers. “I also found the chapter on customer service extremely useful as it made me carefully consider something I do naturally. Sometimes it is great to go back to basics and further develop your skills. I would recommend others to take this course once settled within a workplace. It really suited my way of learning and was manageable out of work hours.
It has given me an exciting starting point to further my knowledge in this career and I look forward to the second course.” Eddie Stanley praised Leanne: “Included in her answer was an account of the development of the GIA system of diamond grading from 1950 – all professionally covered and presented. The most interesting and informative section was the part dealing with the imparting of diamond product knowledge to a potential client. This highlights the whole purpose of trade education for both the professional jewellery sales consultant and the customer.” The education department would like to wish Katherine and Leanne very best wishes for their continued, successful careers in the jewellery industry.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 23
EDUCATION AWARDS
Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) Annette, Michelle, Beaverbrooks, Trafford
Dujardin, Katherine June, Harvey & Thompson, Northampton
Ball, Lucy, Parkhouse The Jeweller, Southampton
Edlin, Petra, Cope Jewellers, Newark
Banks, Hilary May, Pykes Boutique, Ellesmere Port
Edwards, Sarah Louise, Piggotts Jewellers, St Ives
Barker, David, George Tarratt Ltd, Leicester
Ellis, Delphine Therese, Goldsmiths, Cheltenham
Binns, Amy, AA Thornton, Kettering
Embser-Kay, Molly, Aspens Jewellers, Sudbury
Blackbourn, Zoe, F Hinds Ltd, Boston
Evans, Corren, Flitwick Jewellers, Flitwick
Bordley, Martin, F Hinds Ltd, Gosport
Faber, Lorraine May, Haydn Welch Jewellers, Taunton
Bradshaw, Ryan William, Aurum Group Ltd , Leicester
Flanagan, David, Co. Laois
Braithwaite, Caren, F Hinds Ltd, Horsham
Flux, Lisa, Bryants Jewellers, Portishead
Brown, Frances, Fraser Hart, Glasgow
Follett, Amy Elizabeth, Chapelle Jewellery, Bridgend
Brown, Justine, Newbury
Foster, Rebecca, Michael Jones Jewellers, Northampton
Burns, Adam, Waltons the Jewellers Ltd, Chester
Fox, Jessica, John Dyson & Sons Ltd, Leeds
Byrne, Gemma Lisa, M S Milton Ltd, Birkenhead
Fraser-Dransfield, Camilla, Harvey & Thompson, Leigh
Byrne, Heidi Nicola, Pykes the Jewellers, Chester
Germon, Bethan, Clive Ranger, Swansea
Campbell, Mercedes Sheelagh, S Warrender Ltd, Sutton
Gerrard, Alex Emma, G Tydeman Jewellers Ltd, Stowmarket
Campbell, Natalie, Fraser Hart, Plymouth
Getting, Joshua, R L Austen Ltd, Chichester
Carey, Zoe Lianne, Chisholm Hunter, Warrington
Gilbert, Lisa, Goldsmiths, Derby
Carpenter, Lynne, Equinox Jewellery Design Studio, Hoddesdon
Gilbert, Maria, Beaverbrooks, Hanley
Carter, Kirsty Jayne, Beaverbrooks, Telford
Goodgame, Alice, Robert Gatward Jewellers, Reading
Carter, Sarah Elizabeth, F Hinds Ltd, Exeter
Gore, Anastasija, Michael Jones Jewellers, Northampton
Caward, Donna, Suttons & Robertsons, Abbey Wood
Hawkins, Aidan, John H Lunn (Jewellers) Ltd, Belfast
Chamberlain, Jennifer Marie, Aurum Group Ltd, Leicester
Hawkins, Samantha Jane, A A Thornton, Kettering
Chapman, Craig, Gold & Platinum Studio, Bath
Helme, Anne, S Carr & Son, Preston
Clynes, Victoria, W E Clark & Sons, Lewes
Hill, Rebecca Lucy, Allum & Sidaway, Ringwood
Coates, Neil, Michael Jones Jewellers, Banbury
Hughes, Elizabeth, Ernest Jones Ltd, Northampton
Collins, Lisa Marie, Fraser Hart, Rickmansworth
Hyatt, Lauren Marie, Beaverbrooks, London
Conway, Luke Anthony, Barnsley
Hyman, Lauren, Ramsdens, Manchester
Crockett, Fiona, Jessop Jewellers, Dunfermline
Jackson, James Alexander, Hoppers Jewellers Ltd, Bourne
Davis, Ruth, Lyon & Turnbull, Edinburgh
Jaynes, Philippa, Jacobs The Jewellers, Reading
Dinsmore, Lucy, Jack Murphy Jewellers, Newry
Jefferson, Chelsea, Wongs Jewellers, Liverpool
Duce, Kerri Louise, T H Baker & Co Ltd, Kidderminster
Jones, Nik, Dipple & Son Ltd, Norwich
Dudley, Jean Pamela, W E Clark & Sons, Eastbourne
Jones, Shaun William, Winsor Bishop Ltd, Norwich
24 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Jones, Stephanie Elsa, Allum & Sidaway, Ringwood
Powell, Nicole, The Loss Management Group Ltd, Bath
Jordan, Molly-May, Francis & Gaye, Leicester
Price, Nicola Jane, Aurum Group Ltd , Leicester
Karkoszka, Marie, Cavendish Jewellers Ltd, York
Richards, Joanna, Boodles, Liverpool
Kelly, Tara, Beaverbrooks, Croydon
Richards, Samantha Tesni, Crouch Jewellers, Bridgend
Khristoforidi, Maria Ivanovna, Harvey & Thompson, London
Richardson, Anna Carolyn, Picketts & Pursers, Southampton
Knowles, Charlotte Louise, Jenny Jones Jewellery, Manchester
Robinson, Holly, Pravins, Cardiff
Krajicek, Elizabeth Clare, G W Blower, Saffron Walden
Round, Samantha, F Hinds Ltd, Bristol
Langford, Rebecca Louise, Carol Anne Jewellery, Taunton
Shipton, Bradley John, Wongs Jewellers, Liverpool
Leake, Hannah Mary, Cope Jewellers, Newark
Sim, Aurora-Ann, Chisholm Hunter, Aberdeen
Leufer, Bernadette, J Leufer & Sons, Co. Galway
Singh Badhan, Narinder, Bedford
Leung, Ching, Goldsmiths, London
Smet, Joachim, Goldsmiths, Falkirk
Lord, Danielle, The Gold Emporium Ltd, Manchester
Smith, Alyison, John H Lunn (Jewellers) Ltd, Belfast
Lund, Amanda Louise, Beaverbrooks, Middlesbrough
Sullivan, Kirsten, S Warrender Ltd, Sutton
Lynch, Alexandra, Mays Pawnbrokers & Jewellers, Ashton-under-Lyne
Thacker, Emma, T H Baker & Co Ltd, Kidderminster
Machray, Sarah Anne Mary, Beaverbrooks, Aberdeen
Thomson, Andrew, Chisholm Hunter, Kingston upon Thames
Mannall, Hayley, Michael Lynes Jeweller Ltd, Witney
Towsey, Harriet, A W Porter & Son, Hook
Marshall, Matthew David, Beaverbrooks, Telford
Tranter, Kate, Goldsmiths, Stockport
Martin, Karl Scott, Beaverbrooks, Blackpool
Vandervoet, Melissa, Jacobs the Jewellers, Reading
Massey, Heather Amy, Beaverbrooks, Warrington Matt, Jenna, Fish Bros Ltd, Basildon May, Kathryn, Hayes McCracken, Sarah-Anne, Co. Armagh Meldrum, Karen, Chisholm Hunter, Stirling Miller, Jacek Louis, Bluestar Jewellery Ltd, London Minopoli, Joni, Beaverbrooks, Leeds Mullen, Tracey, Wongs Jewellers, Liverpool Murray, Kelly, Liverpool Nathan, Helen, Woods Jewellers, Coulsdon Need, Stacy, Beaverbrooks, Hanley Palmer, Debbie, Beaverbrooks, Hull Paris, Hannah, Shirley Paris Jewellery, Larkhall Pearson, Lauren, T H Baker & Co Ltd, Birmingham Phair, Emma Frances, Beaverbrooks, Wigan Picton, Grace Louise, The Loss Management Group Ltd, Bath Powell, Kiree Louise, Beaverbrooks, Telford
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 25
EDUCATION AWARDS
Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) (cont.) Verzar, Agota, Goldsmiths, Reading Vojkuvkova, Lenka, Goldsmiths, Bracknell Ward, Sarah Elizabeth, T H Baker & Co Ltd, Kidderminster Watson, Tessa, Allum & Sidaway, Shaftesbury Webb, Katherine, Winsor Bishop Ltd, Norwich Wei, Wei, Parkhouse the Jeweller, Southampton Welham, Gemma, Dipple & Son Ltd, Norwich West, Dawn Louise, WGuildford Wheatland, Heather Louise, Harvey & Thompson, Croydon Wilcox, Kimberley Dawn, Harvey & Thompson, Manchester Williams, Bethany, T H Baker & Co Ltd, Shrewsbury Wiltshire, Georgina Ellen Julia, John Bull & Co (Bedford) Ltd, Bedford Winthrop, John Patrick, Beaverbrooks, Blackpool Woffindin, Emma Louise, Harvey & Thompson, Blackpool Wrench, Donovan, Wrench Fine Jewellery, Stoke-on-Trent Yeates, Tara Jayne, David Mellor Jewellers, Andover Young, Andrea, Laing the Jeweller Ltd, Edinburgh Young, Christina May, Chisholm Hunter, Chester Young, Kirsty, Golding Young & Mawer, Lincoln
JETPlus Diploma Elmy, Genette, Hills the Jewellers, Felixstowe Hardcastle, Rebecca, Hugh Rice Jewellers, Hull Harland, Donna, Hugh Rice Jewellers, Hull Jeffries, Scott Lee, C L Jeffries Jewellers, Newport Kelley, Barry, David M Robinson, Ormskirk Kent, Robert James, F J Zelley Ltd, Bishop’s Stortford Nesbit, Craig Iain, Laing the Jeweller Ltd, Edinburgh Stringfellow, Sarah, Mallard Jewellers, Peterborough Woodward, Aron, Hanningtons, Haverhill Young, Andrea, Laing the Jeweller Ltd, Edinburgh
JETPro Full Diploma Cole, Elizabeth Anne, Flitwick Jewellers, Flitwick Wells, Rebecca Jayne, Dipple & Son Ltd, Norwich
26 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Morris, Charlene, Robert Gatward Jewellers, Windsor Mulcahy, Gabriel, The Loss Management Group Ltd, Bath Mulrooney, Rosalyn, Bentley & Skinner, London Nezammafi, Maryam, Solitaire Gemmological Laboratories, London Norton, Robert, Prestons of Bolton, Bolton O’Cock, Sabrina, Bonhams, London O’Donnell, Craig, Safeguard Quality Assurance Ltd, Birmingham Rayman, Lauren, The Loss Management Group Ltd, Bath Reeves, Emma, EJR, Ascot Roach, Fay, Norwich Tom, Graham, Graham Tom Consultancy, London Voulgaridis, Konstantinos, Harry Winston UK Ltd, London Young, Nicola, The Loss Management Group Ltd, Bath
Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT) Attwood, Amanda, The Guild of Valuers and Jewellers, Bristol Barton, Emma, London Bolter, Rachel, Deacon & Son, Swindon Bridges, Elizabeth, Beaverbrooks, Leeds Chawla, Jaspreet, Gems Jewellers, London Costanzo, Alessandra, National University of Ireland, Galway Dickinson, Barry, Blackburn Edelson, Sharne, London Godfrey, Kay, Theo Fennell, London Gregory, Kerry, Harvey & Thompson, Rochester Griffith, Julia, Parkhouse the Jeweller, Southampton Haigh, Clare, Mr Allan Jewellers, Wigan Haylett-Mustafa, Gaynor, Letchworth Kercher, Jason, Tillett’s Fine Jewellers, Norwich
Institute of Registered Valuers’ Fellows
King, Victoria, Francis Wain Jewellers, King’s Lynn
Bramwell, Gordon F.R., Northern Valuations, Kendal
Laker, Teresa, Aurum Goup Ltd, Leicester
Byrne, David M, Cradley Heath
Long, Lee-ona, Henry Lyall Jewellers, Ayr
Tones, Lynn S, Aurum Group Ltd, Leicester
Mazza, Deborah, London
White, Robert, Michael Jones Jewellers, Northampton
Miles, Damian, Okehampton
Wood Tait, Alistir, Antique & Fine Jewellery, Edinburgh
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 27
GEMSTONES
Romancing the
stone – EMERALDS – Continuing our series on gems Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG, a gemmology and diamond tutor at Gem-A, reveals some of the facts and myths of emeralds. Belonging to the beryl family The third stone in our series on the more well-known (and sometimes lesser known) gemstones covers emerald. In the same way as ruby and sapphire were members of the same family, so emerald is a member of a larger family of gemstones, this being the beryl family. Other members include aquamarine, and lesser known varieties such as heliodor and Goshenite. As with sapphire and ruby, the colour can be the distinguishing factor between types. Emerald is (commercially speaking) the green variety of beryl, and can be coloured by either chromium or vanadium. Most people think of emerald as being an almost grass green, but in truth it can be virtually any shade of green, some being a really deep, vivid green, while others can be so pale as to be almost mistaken for aquamarine. Technically, once the saturation falls below a certain level, the stone becomes a simple ‘green beryl’, although chemically it can be identical. In it’s natural form, emerald grows as elongated hexagonal crystals, up to several thousand carats in weight. One of the largest ever found is the Devonshire Emerald, in the Natural History Museum, which weighs 1383.93 carats, and was thought to be part of an originally larger crystal. Unfortunately though, the name derives only from the fact that it was owned by the Duke of Devonshire, in 1931, there are no emerald deposits in the UK. To find truly outstanding and quality stones, you have to travel, with sources like Zambia, Zimbabwe, India and even Siberia yielding stones. The best though are thought to come from Colombia, from mines such as Muzo and Chivor, and these can show the deep green that most people associate with emeralds. Perfecting its imperfections Emerald is probably the one gemstone that stands out above all others as being accepted despite its imperfections. Totally clean emeralds are few and far between, and the vast majority show a range of inclusions, which have come to be known as the ‘jardin’ of the stone, from the French for ‘garden’ because they can resemble foliage. These are natural features found in the rough
28 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Rough emerald
crystals, and which can make the stone difficult to cut, and prone to breakage in certain directions. Due to this, a specific style of cut was developed, that offered protection to the stone, and allowed it to take its place amongst the ‘Big 4’ gemstones. We have come to know this style as the ‘emerald-cut’, a term which nowadays can be applied to any stone Diamond earrings with cut in a rectangular pear-shaped Colombian form, with the corners emerald, by Van Cleef & Arpels truncated, but which was originally used to prevent these corners chipping or breaking during setting. On the plus side though, this range of inclusions and internal features can be used by trained gemmologists and laboratories to help narrow down the original locality from which the emerald came. Certain features, such as an enclosed cavity within the stone, that contains a liquid, a solid crystal, and a gas bubble, can be indicative of a Colombian emerald, while other features can point to other localities, such as Zimbabwe and Zambia. Identification, care and maintenance How to identify an emerald – well, in 1934 Gem-A, working with Chelsea Polytechnic, developed a filter that would differentiate an emerald from its many simulants of the day, and this was named the Chelsea Colour Filter™. Today, with advances in methods of synthesis and lab growth, the filter isn’t possibly as useful as it used to be, but it is still a very valid gemmological tool. Other results of gemmological tests show that emerald has a hardness of 7.5, and a refractive index of 1.57 to 1.60, and also a spectrum that can be seen with a handheld spectroscope. Care should be taken not only when testing emeralds, but also when cleaning and repairing any jewellery set with them. Almost all emeralds are routinely oiled, a fact that is well known to most. The oil helps disguise any surface reaching fractures, making them less visible. This isn’t anything new, or anything to worry about, it’s been ongoing for centuries, but it’s not advisable to put an emerald into an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, or expose it to heat during repair, as the oil can be drawn out… Emerald’s place in myth and folklore Legend has it that emerald could cure some diseases, and even had the power to reveal the future, if placed under the tongue (not to be recommended!). It’s also thought that it can calm and soothe sore/ tired eyes, simply by looking at it. Other sources have it as being able to strengthen the memory, and even protect from giddiness, which could be useful in both respects for late nights down the pub! From the desirability side, though, it serves as the birthstone for May (possibly representing the new growth of spring), and is the gemstone associated with both the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries. And finally… did you know that the cause of the green colour in emerald is chromium – the same element that causes red in ruby! Isn’t nature wonderful!
Want to progress in the jewellery industry? The N.A.G. Centenary Trust is here to help with financial assistance for goldsmith and other craft training, JET course fees and much more. Contact Amanda Reavell on
020 761 34445
or amanda@jewellers-online.org www.nagcentenarytrust.org
CENTENARY TRUST
Looking for that special person to help drive your business forward? Then look no further than the official N.A.G. recruitment website: www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk Used by thousands of candidates every month looking for jobs like yours in all areas including retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance, our industry-specific site is the place to advertise your vacancies. The N.A.G. enjoys an unrivalled reputation of trust within the industry. This means that by advertising on its Jeweller magazine’s recruitment website it provides you with a better opportunity to source candidates with the right skills and attributes, reducing the chance of unsuitable, time-wasting applications and offering better value for money than other generic job sites. Once your vacancy is posted, all registered candidates who have an interest in your job type will immediately receive an email alert advising them that a new vacancy is live, ensuring that no time is wasted in finding you the best person for the job. Please contact Ian Francis on ian.francis@jewellers-online.org or call 020 7749 1705 to find out more about our competitive advertising rates.
BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
SaferGems – update –
Nearly midway through 2015, we continue to see a significant increase in the number of attacks against the industry, with recent robberies and smash and grab raids at jewellery and pawnbroker stores in Merseyside and Greater Manchester. Lee Henderson of SaferGems reports. To date SaferGems has recorded 50 robberies/smash and grab raids. High value watches, in particular Rolex, remain the most sought-after items with approximately £3 million worth stolen since January this year. The North West and North East regions suffered the brunt of these attacks, with criminals from the Greater Manchester area being continually linked to offences across the two regions. However, between February and March 2015 SaferGems recorded four armed jewellery store robberies in England and one in the Republic of Ireland that were all committed by Eastern European nationals. In total over £2.6 million worth of watches were stolen during these robberies alone. Following robberies at stores in the eastern and north east regions of England, five Lithuanian men have been arrested and remanded into custody. The level of violence used by these eastern
European criminals is greater than UK-based offenders, with handguns being used to threaten staff in all cases. There is suggestion that eastern European criminals are being flown in to the UK to commit armed jewellery store robberies. High value watch (Rolex) robberies, committed by eastern European nationals, have also recently occurred across mainland Europe, particularly in Germany, Switzerland and Austria. SaferGems has highlighted this recent eastern European criminal activity in reports to both the Association of Chief Police Officers (ACPO) and the National Crime Agency (NCA). ‘Snatch and Run’ thefts are also a serious problem for members with recently reported thefts in Scotland, Avon, Cheshire, South Yorkshire and Merseyside. In nearly all cases diamond rings have been stolen and the suspects have worn headgear and have been described has having Liverpool accents. Members are advised to be aware of persons loitering around the front door of their stores and be vigilant of persons using mobile phones or trying to conceal their identity by wearing headgear. The success of SaferGems Alerts continues with a recent arrest of a female fraudster in London. The woman entered Mappin & Webb and attempted to purchase a high value watch on Interest Free Credit. The staff at the store recognised the woman from SaferGems Alerts and contacted local police who attended the store and made an arrest. Between 18th February and 25th March 2015 the woman had obtained and attempted to fraudulently obtain high value watches from stores in Brighton, Guildford, Maidstone and London. Further proof (if proof were needed) that the system works!
Hold-up awareness Training courses Robert Eden reports on two hold-up awareness training courses hosted recently by Association members. The Elite protection course took place at its custom-built training academy near Potters Bar, while the Primassure course was held near the Monument in the heart of the City of London. In the safe knowledge that others had survived this experience before me, I joined a group of jewellery professionals, all keen to learn more about this very important subject. The mix of retailers from varying business models, came with common concerns: how to spot potential situations before they escalate, how to deal with an in-store robbery and how to handle the aftermath of an attack. Each day began with an introduction to our trainers and an explanation of the courses, which have been developed by professionals within the organisations, using extensive personal experiences from within the military, police and the insurance industry. The aim of the training was to give us the confidence and skills to reduce the risk of an armed robbery happening, and, should the worst happen, know how to enhance our own safety and that of others involved. By the end of the day I had learnt to: • understand the policies and procedures in relation to robbery • reduce the risk through vigilance • demonstrate correct and safe behavior should the situation arise • safely gather evidence after the event • apply effective post-incident action, including security of the scene, welfare and evidence-handling
30 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
We also were taught what to look out for and question whether the absence of normal is making us aware of the presence of abnormal. A key message from the courses is that staff members need to be trained to spot potential issues and learn what actions to take if the worst should happen. For business managers to tell them ‘not to resist’ and to simply ‘give them the goods’ when being robbed, isn’t good enough. Think longer-term, we were told. Consider: • emotions • how this event would make us feel afterwards • what would or could we have done differently • what we would do immediate afterwards • how we collect information and evidence, how we protect the scene and, most importantly, the people involved Both courses are powerful and informative and, having attended and witnessed the results, I suggest that you should seriously consider how your business and staff could benefit from this training. Whether employer or employee, all have a duty of care and given a worst-case scenario, far better to trained and aware than not! To learn more about hold up awareness training course, email: amanda.white@jewellers-online.org or call her on tel: 020 7613 4445.
FEATURE
prizes The prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall in London was the setting for this year’s Awards of the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Competition.
H
eld last March, this key event in the industry calendar was hosted by former news reader and Birmingham Assay Office chairman Kay Alexander, and supported by a number of important trade companies and individuals, sponsors, industry associations and trade press. This year the National Association of Goldsmiths was among those joining the occasion having become a new Special Award Patron (along with CW Sellors, Theo Fennell and Vipa Designs). A total of 111 winners were honoured in 23 categories with 22 Gold Awards, 36 Silver Awards and 53 Commendations from over 600 entries. This year, the much-coveted Goldsmiths’ Company Award went to Ornella Iannuzzi for her ‘Uprising Ring’ for “exceptional and outstanding design in 2D and 3D entries”. The award is given only when, in the Council’s judgement, an entry achieves the highest standard of creative design and originality.
Ornella Iannuzzi
Weston Beamor. As with previous years, the headline sponsors for 2015 include the Goldsmiths’ Company as its Founding and
Charlotte De Syllas
Among the Major Awards, the College Trophy Award went to The Goldsmiths’ Centre The Lifetime Achievement Award silver medal for 2015 was presented to Mr Norman Bassant for his outstanding and distinguished craftsmanship and teaching. He also served on the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council for over 20 years. Xing Zhou
Known affectionately within the trade as the Oscars of the Industry, this comprehensive competition rewards excellence in technical skills and creative design in precious metals and related materials. The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council, which runs the competition, actively encourages craftsmen and designers in the industry, apprentices and students to enter their work in these highly respected awards.
Laura Bangert
Elsa Tieney
Lead Patron and Cartier as Principal Patron. IJL, Gem-A and The Goldsmiths’ Centre are all Special Patrons, with HRH Princess Michael of Kent as the Council’s Royal Patron. The new Creative/Distinctive Jewellery Award presented by the N.A.G. was won by Laura Bangert whose 18ct Gold Knot Ring the judges regarded as fitting the criteria as well as ‘having the potential to be commercially viable’. Another new award – bestowed by CW Sellors – was for Lapidary & Carving and was won by Charlotte De Syllas for her carved jade necklace ‘Flight’. Gem-A awarded scholarships on its Diamond and Gemmology Diploma courses to Gurveen Singh of Glasgow Kelvin College and Joanna Fronczak-Jabbal of
This was the second year that the Council incorporated an award to focus on pearls – the Raw Pearls Special Award, which sought to encourage the innovative use of pearls within contemporary fine jewellery design. The Gold awards went to Xing Zhou for the ‘Enamelled Pearl Necklace’, and to Elsa Tierney for the ‘Bubble Blown’ necklace. Gemstone supplier Marcia Lanyon once again sponsored the Special Award for the creative use of coloured stones in jewellery design. Jack Bainbridge of HK Bespoke Jewellery and Hang Yeung won Silver Awards for ‘Gala Necklace’ and ‘Earring and Ring set’ respectively, while Dominique Compton won Gold in the Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery Award for her ‘Rose Gold Flower Suite’. Flora Bhattachary of Central St Martins took the IJL-sponsored Silver Award in the 3D Precious Jewellery category for her ‘Trillion Set Silver Gilt Rings’. Dominique Compton
Photography by Richard Valencia
Glittering
Entries are invited and actively encouraged in all aspects of the trade, from new entrants to skilled craftsmen, apprentices and from education. The competition accommodates all craft and design activities in the profession, including specialist sections such as diamond mounting, setting, silversmithing, chasing, enamelling, 2D design – including CAD, jewellery, smallwork, technology and many more.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 31
Wrist Action Belinda Morris looks at the general trends, moods and developments across the watch market.
Main image courtesy of Swarovski
F
The aforementioned pared-back, mimimal look timepiece (think Mondaine, Meistersinger, Braun, Emporio Armani…) has its polar opposite in the myriad multi-function models. Colour – for straps, cases and dials, hands and indices is noteworthy (Festina, Du Maurier…), as are new materials and mixed metals and materials, slimmer cases, skeleton fronts as well as backs (Royal London, Zenith, Kenneth Cole…), NATO straps (Timex, Oxygen), obliquely-shaped dials and feminine dress watches (in tandem with larger ‘boyfriend’ ladies’ styles).
or those jewellery retailers who have assigned a sizeable proportion of shop floor, shelf and window space to watches, it hardly needs to be said that timepieces are a vital market category right now. For many, watches held things together during the financial crisis and now that we’re out of (the worst of) the woods, they are just as critical; the arrival of smartwatches adding an extra frisson. A spot-check with a few key brands at BaselWorld revealed that the number of UK visitors was encouragingly healthy… even up on previous years according to a couple questioned. “We had more appointments with buyers from the UK than in any previous year – including new prospective customers,” says Carl Eady, Seiko’s UK marketing manager. “The mood was incredibly optimistic, the positivity buoyed by stronger sales.” It was also noted, by the team on the Pointtec (Junkers/Zeppelin) stand, that 2015 saw quite a number of UK buyers attending the show for the first time. (The lure can be resisted for only so long…) So, what are buyers looking for now? The choice out there is tremendous, so it will be no problem if the quest is for new
Junkers
Hoptroff
names – but that isn’t on the top of everyone’s shopping list. “I used to go to Basel looking for other names, but it’s brands that sell a watch,” says Jonathan Pressley of Pressley’s in Worthing. “A brand gives customers security that their money has been well-spent – particularly among 14- to 30- year olds. They want something like Michael Kors, because everyone’s wearing them. With a new brand I’m looking for an ‘energy’ – for instance Bering has it, for the 30- to 40- year old who wants the simple, minimalist look.”
Time Zones
Whether from an established international brand, or from an untried or emerging one, it’s pretty clear that there are a number of directions that are dominating the current watch market. Some would say that there are no trends as such, because the fact is that there is a style for every taste and pocket and it’s not just collectors who own multiple watches – the rest of us are also getting in on the watch wardrobe act; a different watch for different occasions/ moods/outfits.
And talking of big… chunky, all-singing, action man watches enjoy a sizable sector of the market. It’s about aviation/ climbing/motor racing/sailing/ biking styling and functions and watches for those who live life across more than one time zone (like Seiko’s Dual Time Astron Solar GPS and Adriatica’s Twin Motion 1191 chronograph with
Rotary
rubber and also unusual strap materials.” Fred Bennett’s debut at Basel proved successful, particularly for its Sports Watch – a chronograph with matte black dial and strap and orange highlights. Links of London showcased Driver Sport – a completely new style for the brand, which captured the racing look and spirit with colours like orange, yellow, blue, green and white to embellish hands and indices. Certina unveiled its DS Podium Big Size Chrono Limited Edition – inspired by racing car instruments – to celebrate its ongoing partnership with the WRC racing organisation.
“I’m sure we can expect a fad for wearing both a mechanical and a smartwatch at the same time. Such people will be worthy of gentle derision.” two time zones and perpetual calendar). Military look are also popular – brands like Bell & Ross, Elliot Brown with its nylonstrapped, sandblasted, gunmetal Canford model and Citizen’s Royal Marine Commandos and Red arrows models. “For SevenFriday we like complicated automatic type movements which, although it may be difficult to read the time, say something about the wearer,” says Mark Sutcliffe of UK distributor MDS. “We are fun, extrovert watches distinctive in industrial design, colour and material. Rose or copper and black were in, as were steel and distinctive colour, aluminium, wood,
And Tudor’s Heritage Fastrider collection features brightly designed bezels to reflect the Ducati Scrambler bikes that have inspired it.
G-Shock
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 33
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WATCHES FEATURE
as part of their identity or heritage. Thankfully, Citizen has always been smart in its use of progressive technology, as illustrated by the launch of the next-generation Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F900.” (Satellite Wave – the first watch capable of syncing with satellites in space – was launched in 2011.)
watches – precisely because they are mechanical, which speaks to a certain craft and tradition – to suddenly give those up,” he said.
Bering
You’d have to be a proverbial under-a-rock dweller not to be aware of the smartwatch and its market infiltration. If there was one headline story at BaselWorld this was arguably it, with a handful of brands harnessing technology to give Apple a run for its money. Counterbalancing all this future stuff, the other strong direction was about looking back. Significant anniversaries this year have given a few brands a good excuse to delve into archives – heritage, vintage, retro… it’s a mood (rather than one particular look) that reaches across ages, genders and budgets.
Clever time
Back to the future though… In a recent interview with De Zeen Watch Store, Josh Sims, editor of the recently launched publication The Hour, was asked what impact he thinks the Apple Watch and other smartwatches will have on the traditional watch market? “I don’t think we can expect people who love mechanical
Hugo Boss
34 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
“First and foremost, smartwatches will be important to younger generations who have grown up as digital natives and who, generally speaking, have no interest in wearing a watch. They might wear a smartwatch. Interestingly, Apple is positioning its watch very much as a lifestyle product, not as a tech-y gadget. So the watch world must be looking over its shoulder slightly. I’m sure we can expect a fad for wearing both a mechanical and a smartwatch at the same time. Such people will be worthy of gentle derision.”
Timex
Kenneth Cole
The watch world certainly isn’t being complacent about smartwatches – most brands are looking on with interest and, along with retailers no doubt, waiting to gauge public reaction. “You cannot ignore or fear the progression of technology, you have to embrace it – that is core to our brand story,” says Aysha Hasan, marketing manager at UK Timex Group, which has launched the Run50, a watch that connects to a smart phone while the wearer runs, controlling their music and receiving alerts from their wrist. Running accessories now… but they wont stop there we’re told. And Kenneth Cole is one of the first fashion brands to enter the fray with its Connect™ featuring Bluetooth smart technology, with app-enabled functionality.
“there is a decent handful of brands harnessing technology to give Apple a run for its money…” And there are others who are congratulating themselves on being among the smart leaders. “Unsurprisingly many brands are keen to make their mark in terms of wearable tech,” says Mark Robinson, MD of Citizen watch UK. “At BaselWorld it was interesting to see which companies decided to invest in this sector, particularly brands that you would not normally associate with technology
Mondaine
Tissot has even more reason to be smug. “We were actually one of the first to go down that road, in 2005,” says brand president, François Thiébaud. “We created the first connected watch in partnership with Microsoft, the Tissot High-T. It was meant for the big cities of the US and allowed you to access information you would find on msn messenger such as weather forecast, stock exchange, news or even sports results.” At Basel Tissot revealed the prototype of its smartwatch, which has access to a solar weather station. Storm
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EDF Oxford Congress
Wednesday 10th June 2015
“Engage your customers by engaging your staff” Confirmed Speakers Debbie Edmondson, Talent Director at Cohesion Recruitment “How to reach, engage and retain your employees” Debbie is an experienced recruiterand Talent Director for Cohesion, an outsourced recruitment business, and specialises in values-based recruitment. Debbie will be sharing her knowledge on how to reach, engage and retain high quality employees who stay with your business for longer; along with top tips on recruitment best practice. Michael Rawlinson, CEO at the N.A.G “What the merger will mean for you, your employees and your customers” Michael as your CEO has been representing your interests and those of the jewellery Industry on the Unification Working Party since its formation 12 months ago. He will be outlining why he believes unification with the BJA to form the National Association of Jewellery will be a beneficial for N.A.G. members. Don’t miss this opportunity to ask your questions just six days ahead of the unification vote on 16th June. Andrew Stephenson, HR Director at DFS “The link between employee engagement, customer engagement, performance and profitability” Andrew is a results-focused HR professional with significant experience in organisational development, change programmes and performance management. He will be sharing his experiences with particular reference to the transformation of DFS into a UK award-winning employer.
Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel
Mark Saxby, Owner of Status Social “10 social networks that can transform your business and make you money” Mark, a former award-winning BBC journalist, started one of the UK’s first specialist social media agencies four years ago. Since then he and his team have carried out social media training with more than 1,200 business people, helping them increase profits. Christine Colbert, Managing Director at InHouse (part of House Creative Agency) “Identifying what’s unique about your brand and bringing it to life” Inhouse develops clear and distinctive brand positionings and creative solutions for the jewellery and watch industries that set those brands apart from the crowd. Christine will be sharing how they helped identify Kings Hill’s unique difference based upon their uniquely personal service and translate it into a stylish rebrand. Jeff Caplan, Managing Director at Storecheckers “How to make your staff passionate ambassadors for your brand” The shop floor team are a jeweller’s most valuable asset. Storecheckers brings 25 years’ experience of working with flagship retailers and N.A.G. members. Jeff will share some of the secrets of successfully creating store staff into passionate ambassadors and sales people for ‘their’ business.
Still not sure about attending? Here’s what some of last year’s delegates had to say about Congress 2014 “Excellent day and I would thoroughly recommend attending to all retailers” “It was a brilliant networking opportunity across the industry” “Great Venue, Great Networking” “A great day full of interesting and thought provoking subjects – well planned and enjoyable” “A good, solid, valuable day out” “I learned a lot in a very short space of time, great venue, speakers and content; I’ve got a lot of work to do when I get back to the office!”
To book your place at the 2015 EDF Oxford Congress contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or amandaw@jewellers-online.org “The Executive Development Forum provides a unique opportunity for Independent Jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with likeminded professionals, in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships that enable them to: benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses; develop their strategic thinking; invest in their own professional development; and ultimately grow their business.”
THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS
height by using the wearer’s smartphone’s GPS to determine location, and hydrographic data for 3,000 points around the globe to determine the tidal harmonics… which then report tide heights. It also shows the date, is accurate to one second a year, has a perpetual calendar… and tells the time. All this cleverness tucked into a very pretty, classiclooking, platinum, 18ct gold or Britannia silver timepiece.
“Our aim has always been to create a Swiss made watch first and foremost,” he adds.
“There are lots of fantastic watch options in the mid sector. But it’s difficult to overcome a client’s reluctance to spend £500 to £1500 on a watch that they’ve never heard of. Lesser-known brands need a USP, and not be generic. If you put two similar watches in front of a client, most will plump for the watch they know the name of.” Michelle Dilley, director, Lumbers, Leicester.
Claiming to have the first ever Swiss-made horological smartwatch, Mondaine used Basel to launch its Helvetica No1 Smartwatch, which uses power MotionX® technology to focus on monitoring activity and sleep tracking (thanks to bi-directional
Citizen
Royal London
Like Sims, many in the industry regard the smartwatch as ‘something to observe’, but without concern, as lovers of traditional timepieces are unlikely to forsake traditional craftsmanship. “We like to consider luxury as being beyond function,” says Corum board member Marie-Alexandrine Leibovitch. “Our timepieces are connected to their owners through emotions.”
The same can be said of Hoptroff’s No. 12 watch – its unique complication shows exact tide
“Ladies’ watches are an increasingly important part of our business at all price points… our second best-selling Patek Philippe in our Watches of Switzerland showroom in Regent Street in the run up to Christmas was a £20,000 rose gold, diamond-set ladies’ model.” Mark Toulson, head of watch buying, Aurum Holdings. “Some brands don’t seem to have a proper level of control on their products and we find these are being hosed out on to the internet at heavy discounts, which make it impossible to sell our stock. Either these people need to take back control of their brands or independent jewellers will surely abandon them.” John Henn, TA Henn, Wolverhampton.
Links of London
communication between the watch and downloaded app on a device. No blinking LED screens – just a regular watch face. Same applies to Frederique Constant’s and Alpina’s Swiss horological smartwatches – also powered by MotionX® (it was the Frederique Constant Group, in fact, that brought MotionX® to the watch market via a new joint venture – MMT). If you want connectivity combined with classic looks, this is the way forward.
View of the watch market from the shop floor “We were very excited at the volume of good commercial product that was launched at Basel this year. NATO straps have definitely caught the attention of several brands. This trend for colour certainly came through… also in dial applications.” Nick Bucknell, buyer, Beaverbrooks.
Zeppelin
“There seems to be a growth in people wanting ‘different’ – not just what we are led to want by advertising and the fashion industry. Although you cannot ignore brands like Michael Kors and Hugo Boss as their power has not diminished.” Andrew Warner, director, Identity the Jewellers, Derby. “I’m not going to be a trend-setter when it comes to watches. It’s the brand that sells a watch – £3,000 is a lot to spend on a brand that is unknown [to the customer]. To give yourself the best chance of a high enough turnover you have to choose those that are trending… that’s how buying decisions are made.” Jonathan Pressley, MD Pressleys, Worthing “Michael Kors still tends to do the greatest volume of all the fashion brands – it’s the Pandora of watches! Its market is very age-specific – it’s bought often as an accessory by the ‘new-jobber’. The spend isn’t massive.” Matt Belves, branch manager, Burrells, Tunbridge Wells.
Alex Brown, horologist at Elliot Brown agrees: “ Smartwatches provoke a very different emotion to ‘proper’ watches, because they aren’t really watches, they’re appliances; small phones. And whilst the technology is enthralling, no-one loves their iPhone… as soon as a new model is released they trade up and don’t look back. For us the emotional bond is an absolutely vital part of making watches.”
Braun
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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 37
WATCHES FEATURE
Time and again
Maurice Lacroix
However, as a lure for introducing a digital generation to watchwearing, the smartwatch is largely being welcomed. “More people will own a watch as a result of it, which can only be good for the industry in general and encourage more people to discover the diversity which exists within the world of watches,” says IWC UK brand director Simon Chambers. “It will be interesting to see who comes out on top – traditional watch companies doing smartwatches, or new brands entering the market,” adds Matt Belves, branch manager of Burrells in Tunbridge Wells.
Adriatica
And that includes looking back to an earlier world. With an archive of design going back 160 years, Timex is enjoying strong sales of its vintage inspired models – simple, bold analogue dials being especially popular (with women as well as men and NATO straps referencing its MOD history). Patek Philippe’s Pilot Watch is inspired by its archive pilot’s watch, which was produced in
“We like to consider luxury as being beyond function… our timepieces are connected to their owners through emotions…” Tissot
1936, and has been well-received. Rotary, celebrating its 120th anniversary this year has revived designs that go back to the 1900s in some cases. Meanwhile Seiko’s Prospex Marine Masters models mark the 50th anniversary of the brand’s Divers collection.
Michael Kors
Candino
While having “something for everyone at all price points”, Maurice Lacroix is seeing “a lot of success with our classic and retro styled watches, like the Eliros Quartz range and the Les Classiques Automatics… for under £1,000,” explains Matthew Lefevre, UK sales and marketing
Fashion brands (in particular), without a long history to refer to, have taken advantage of the desire for a heritage look, with collections that have a retro feel (anything from 1920s to the 1980s – so lots of scope). Peers Hardy has launched two vintage brands this year: Henry (its own brand) is inspired by a watch found by a designer in an antiques market, so named because the reverse of the original bears the enigmatic inscription ‘Henry 1965’. The second is Orla Kiely, with its graphic, 1960s feel.
Certina
Seiko
38 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
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WATCHES FEATURE
director. Unsurprisingly, Du Maurier watches are “unashamedly classic… vintage with a modern twist”, according to Marianna du Maurier Browning. “It is important that we stay true to the heritage of the Du Maurier family as it is the absolute essence of the brand and where the design inspiration comes from,” she explains. The ladies’ Daphne Signature model has been enlivened this year with lizard straps in a choice of new colours.
Girl Time
Ladies’ watches have become increasingly important over the last few years – and while colour might be one big draw, it isn’t always the case. “What they are actually purchasing are the plainer pieces that are, perhaps, more suitable day wear for the professional woman,” says Paul Harry of Peers Hardy. “Ladies’ watches make up half of our collection,” explains Thomas Swiderski of Swiss brand Adriatica. “[They range from] sporty models on silcon straps and large watches
Zenith
Emporio Armani
on bracelets, to slim, delicate jewellery models – which have become a fashion trend.” would be expected, Swarovski watches would be bound to include some sparkle – as seen in the new Aila Day line, with pavé-set crystals on the bezel and sunray dials.
Thomas Sulkey, UK brand director at Certina agrees. “The masculine style ladies’ watch is still a prevalent trend…. However we have noticed a slight shift with more customers bucking the trend and desiring more delicate, feminine timepieces.” To cater for this market the brand launched the DS Stella, with its band of mother of pearl around a central sunray textured area and diamonds to mark the hours. “As watches increasingly become a fashion purchase, we are seeing consumers buy numerous
As it was launched as a ladies’ brand, O.W.L Watches are inherently feminine – no model is over 30mm and the range is broad, covering many fashion trends and statements. “We’ve had great success with larger cases with thin straps, and with
“If you put two similar watches in front of a client, most will plump for the watch they know the name of.” watches in different styles,” says Simon Gilham, MD of Zeon, which produces ladies’ styles (from ‘boyfriend’ to petite) in all its brands’ collections.
Folli Follie
40 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Taking inspiration from its jewellery ranges, Links of London has introduced two new Swissmade women’s collections – Windermere, with mother of pearl dials, ripple effects and crystal stones, and Kindred Spirit
O.W.L Watches
with subtle details such as an intertwined heart subsidiary dial and guilloche work. Meanwhile, sister brand Folli Follie’s watches are unashamedly feminine with their ‘Santorini Flower’ theme – definitely time-keeping meets fashion accessory – in a range of colours and materials. And, as
Du Maurier
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WATCHES FEATURE
each collection we’re adding more detail, such as stitching and studs, a new shaped vintage lens and snake chain bracelets – merging the boundary between watches and jewellery,” says UK sales manager Charlie Gumley. At Storm, new sophisticated, slim, bracelet-style watches for women were well-received, as were brushed stainless steel models and rose gold-plating with coloured dials and crystals. It would be a mistake however, to assume that the women’s timepiece market is all about froth and fashion. “Women are an important clientele for highwatchmaking… they care about the aesthetic, but they are getting more and more knowledgeable in terms of technical aspects,” says Corum’s Leibowitch. “There’s an increasing acceptance of complicated ladies’ watches from manufacturers such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-leCoultre,” agrees Aurum’s head of watch buying Mark Toulson. “Chronographs, perpetual calendars and tourbillons all sell to ladies these days.”
Ralph Lauren
Dreyfuss & Co.
Accepting that its female customers are “turning to men’s watches”, Tissot created Tradition and Le Locle collections, which are the size
of a man’s watch but with a thinner case. And Braun’s Classic slim watch combines pared-back minimalism for its mesh-strapped ladies’ watch. Meanwhile,
“Women are an important clientele for high-watchmaking… they care about the aesthetic, but they are getting more and more knowledgeable in terms of technical aspects,”
Consumers speak about smartwatches Vintage watch and jewellery specialist William May conducted a Google Consumer Survey to discover how UK consumers feel about wearable technology. An image of a smartwatch and a classic watch were featured with the questions. When asked: ‘Would you prefer to wear a smartwatch or a classic watch?’ the survey revealed that 60% of people would prefer to wear a traditional timepiece. Of those opting for the smartwatch, 36% were men compared to 31% women. Predictably, 71% of the 55- to 64-year-olds and 86% of the 65+ age groups opted for the classic watch. Also unsurprising, almost half of 18-24 year-olds would rather wear a smartwatch. An interesting (and perhaps unconsidered) issue was raised by one (female) respondee: “With technology comes many positives but also negatives such as the ‘eroding’ of family values as family members scuttle into their individual bubbles, absorbed by their smartphone, tablet, etc. Learning to tell the time will be lost on the generations to come if, as parents, we don’t set the right examples. Wearing a traditional timepiece should be celebrated.”
42 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Festina
Barbour’s Cleadon watch mixes soft leather with metal hardwear for a feminine style with a tough edge. As with all categories of the watch market, it’s just one direction among very many. You pays your money… n
The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005
The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like-minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.
“
The key benefit to me (of being an N.A.G. member), even though it costs extra, is the EDF. Networking, sharing best practice, getting advice and information are exceptionally useful. It’s quite isolating being a one-store enterprise and seeing national statistics, hearing views help broaden my horizons. Some of the tips received have saved us enough money to more than justify the fee. I’d encourage and recommend it highly.
For an annual subscription of £850 you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the EDF Members via: • a Q&A forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance on products, policy, or suppliers. You ask the question and the members answer, quite often by return • a new flash service, where relevant business and industry articles are emailed to your inbox • a shared monthly performance report that enables you to benchmark yourself against other retail jewellery businesses • educational store visits which allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing in their stores • three regional group meetings a year giving you the opportunity to discuss in detail the issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face, as well as develop new business skills • the opportunity to attend the annual Oxford Congress when members meet to make new contacts and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields
”
EDF member
EDF see and hear what other members are doing in their stores In April members visited a total of six stores as part of the Educational Store Visit programme, which gives members the opportunity to see and hear what other members are doing in their businesses, and, in turn, gives the host an opportunity to benefit from the combined knowledge, experience and expertise of the visitors. This isn’t just an excuse to escape the ‘office’ – though the opportunity to network is priceless – but it is a structured and focused day with a very clear reason for the group to visit. In one location the members talked and walked two stores within the same business, just 100 yards away from each other – one 40 years old and one just 40 days old. The owner wanted to continue selling high turnover brands while at the same time reinvigorating its established high value diamond sales. Elsewhere, the group enjoyed seeing and understanding the broad commercial benefits, (and frustrating pitfalls) of having on-site jewellery manufacturing workshops. Another group heard about how one member replaced the loss of a significant brand with the development of its own bespoke brand and store relaunch. One of the key benefits of EDF membership is that somewhere in the room there is another retailer who has successfully faced the situation you are about to face – in this case members were invited to see a store that the owner wanted to refit. Their suggestions and advice on layouts, displays, lighting, suppliers and products, probably saved the store thousands! If you’d like to meet some of these store owners before committing to EDF membership, come along to the EDF Congress on 10th June – it’s open to all N.A.G. members and a great way to ‘try before you buy’.
If you would like any further information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer on 020 7613 4445, email her at amanda.white@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122.
MEMBER BENEFITS
Storecheckers Mystery shoppers and market research R
ecently published research from American Express reveals that a brilliant customer experience will secure brand loyalty while poor service will cost your business money. According to Amex, two thirds of people will spend up to an extra 30 per cent with businesses with whom they have a history of positive service, while 55 per cent of those questioned said that in the previous year they had ‘walked out’ in the middle
Over the past 25 years, Storecheckers has provided mystery shopping, market research and training programmes to help flagship retailers become beacons of service excellence, while meeting key sales and operational targets. Storecheckers has developed close relationships with high street chains such as Deichmann Shoes and Timpson and even introduced mystery shopping to Selfridges.
Since 1998 Storecheckers has also been working with the N.A.G. to provide its membership with services uniquely tailored to the jewellery sector, supported by bespoke quality reporting systems allowing users to quickly pinpoint areas for improving performance and profitability. These services have been embraced by members ranging from major retail jewellery chains to smaller independents, while the company also established
The company operates a state-of-the-art online facility and, with its experienced team of researchers, can offer detailed and objective feedback tailormade for your business, providing an in-depth analysis of your customers’ experience in areas such as service, brand offer, product knowledge, security and sales. Storecheckers’ mystery shopping, market research and training programmes can: • inspire confident, motivated staff • deliver excellent service • generate customer loyalty • maximise sales penetration • raise profitability through control of stock and assets Most notably, one of Storecheckers’ clients within the jewellery sector actually cut its in-store losses by 50 per cent within six months of introducing its mystery shopping programme. N.A.G. members can benefit from a minimum 15 per cent discount on all Storecheckers services. Please email MD Jeff Caplan for a free initial consultation: jeff@storecheckers.co.uk or call him on: 07877 213892.
of an intended purchase after a bad experience. The fact is, providing shoppers with that wow factor will ensure the development of a loyal, high value customer base. But, in order to achieve this, you’ll need the information to make the right decisions on your approach to customer service. This is where ‘mystery shopping’ can be a godsend.
One of Storecheckers’ clients within the jewellery sector actually cut its in-store losses by 50 per cent within six months of introducing its mystery shopping programme.
a special facility for EDF members to provide invaluable benchmarking trend data against participating organisations. Storecheckers’ standardised sector-based reporting format provides N.A.G. members with the unique capability to have their feedback personalised with the research precisely focused on the areas that matter to their businesses.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 45
REGULAR
Flying the Flag Britain’s rich history in watchmaking is undisputed, but it has, of course, become an industry dominated by the Swiss. While that situation isn’t about to change any day soon, today there’s a growing number of brands that are flying the flag. Maybe not ‘made’ in Britain, but certainly conceived, nurtured and launched into the world from here, as is the case with Kennett Watches. We spoke to founder Tom Kennett, who made a watch for his father when he couldn’t find what he wanted on the market – thus the business was born. How aware were you of the history British watchmaking when you conceived Kennett? In fact, how much did you know about watches at all? I knew there was a significant history, however I wasn’t clear on whether it would be viable for me to source components or assemble within the UK. My background is in sales within the engineering and technical industries; I have never counted myself as particularly technical yet I was aware from a young age as to the basic principles of how Tom Kennett
mechanisms worked. Since I was a boy I have always had a passion for watches and found them fascinating. I spent several years researching the watch industry while still in my sales role and visited key trade shows like Basel to soak up the atmosphere and take some inspiration in. How did you go about designing Savro, the first watch? How did you find the components for it? We had a big challenge with our first range. Much like the car market where companies
sometimes collaborate with other brands to supply engines, I realised from our launch that we would likely have to work with other manufacturers in order to get started. My family have been involved in the engineering markets for many decades, so the manufacturing and design spirit is very much in my blood. I wasn’t scared to start Kennett, but equally I realised there was a number of challenges, specifically with volumes and how we would manufacture at the start. We began with only small amount of funds so we couldn’t go out and manufacture thousands of watches – we had to work within the constraints of our situation. As a result, we set out on a journey and I envisaged a number of core designs and collections, working with designers and technicians in the UK, Switzerland and Asia. We used stock mechanisms from suppliers like Citizen Miyota, which we specified to ensure quality and reliability but also because of how available the movements were. As the volumes and brand have grown, we have
available on the market. Of course there are and always have been a huge range of classical designed fashion watches out there — however we had invested time in designing a piece which looked rather more expensive than it actually was (£260). And we had built something that was high quality and made it available in a number of attractive colour combinations. We quickly got attention online and attracted stockists like ASOS.com, Watch
… now more than ever, you can see the brand DNA flowing through the collections – the designs are collaborating with each other very well. increasingly taken further control of our design and production and always seek to add our brand DNA within our new designs. Now that we have certain volumes, we can invest in custom tooling to make our own crowns, hands, cases and straps as an example. The name Savro was coined as a play on the London street name ‘Savile Row’. How did the Savro take off? Did you immediately think about creating a brand for the trade or did it begin as a ‘direct-to-consumer’ watch? The Savro was a quick hit for us as we found that we had offered something that was not so widely
46 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Savro
Shop and even a few of the London department stores. We knew it would take a while to build B2B retail relationships so we set out to sell directly B2C via our web site. While we didn’t initially create volume sales from that platform it gave us our flagship presence, which many spectators suggested made us look professional and much more established than we were. As time went on we managed to gain trust from various stockists in the UK and abroad and with that grew our sales and brand awareness and so too has our B2C business via our website and in addition our export wholesale operations.
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REGULAR
Do you still design the watches now – how hands-on are you in that respect? How many technicians do you employ and do you take on apprentices? Yes, I head up our creative departments and pay particular attention to the design of everything we produce, whether it be our marketing, our product design, or our packaging and POS. I design the products to my own taste and believe I have a good feel for what people want. A year into our story and we have started designing products for women too; we just try to stay true to the principles of the brand and I think, now more than ever, you can see the brand DNA flowing through the collections
component pricing is on the way up. We can’t see it being that feasible at the moment in the fashion watch market to source a larger percentage of components locally, however that is changing and not to be dismissed. For example we are starting to buy leather from Europe. In what way is the UK’s design heritage embodied into each collection (as you state online)? Where do the creative ideas come from for each collection? Kennett’s models are very much inspired by British culture and destinations, like Savile Row, as I mentioned and we now have the Carnaby and Kensington models too. When designing products
Our customers are usually trend setters rather than ‘fashion sheep’ as I call them. We are looking for those people who like brands with substance, with a story and ultimately that feeling of exclusivity. – the designs are collaborating with each other very well. We would like to take on more staff as the business grows and have looked at building apprenticeship schemes. We sub contract all our assembly at the moment, but that’s not to say that won’t change in the future. Why is the British aspect important to you? And can you foresee a time when more of the components can be sourced in the UK? My surname Kennett is an Anglo Saxon name, and I consider myself British, my father being English and my mother Scottish. I think Britain is a fantastic place and is, itself, a great brand – our inventions and people are world-renowned creators and innovators. We are seeing more restrictions from our far east supply chain, with a desire for quantities to increase and less flexibility. Input prices have increased for various suppliers too, due to energy situations and that only means our own
48 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
around British themes and places, I often visualise characters from various places within Britain, imagine what they would wear, how they would act and what they would want from their watch. I guess from bracketing people into British genres we are trying to segment our market and therefore design our products in a targeted way. What is Kennett’s ethos? Who is your typical customer? The affordable prices would suggest someone who chooses a watch as much for style as anything else... Kennett was started for many reasons but one was my continued frustration at the lack of choice in UK stores; chain shops tend to display the same old brands in all corners of the country and that gets boring when you’re trying to buy a present for someone as I was trying to do for my father’s 60th birthday. We try our best to offer consumers choice, whether it’s a choice of many different
leather strap colours or a variety of different metal straps like the Milanese additions we have just launched. We offer an attractive product at affordable prices, yet so many people believe the ranges are far more expensive because they’re styled and constructed to exude a very luxurious feel. Our customers are usually trend setters rather than ‘fashion sheep’ as I call them. We are looking for those people who like brands with substance, with a story and ultimately that feeling of exclusivity. We design on the basis of style not fashion, and we’re in this market for the long term… meaning that we design in the hope that our products will endure the seasons and the fashion fads which come and go. The great thing about Kennett customers is their variety – we have 18-year-old girls asking for a Kennett for their birthday and equally men asking for a Kennett for their 40th or 50th. We also have a strong demand from the middle aged executive who wants something smart, functional and reliable to wear. Because the watches are affordably priced, some customers Kensington
like to collect Kennetts and have different styles and colours from the range. Who are your main competitors in the market? Would it be the fashion brands or the affordable ‘serious’ watch brands like Tissot, Citizen, etc. How receptive are trade buyers to a British watch? There are naturally a few British brands out there now but few who sell at our price point and operate in our genre. We find a lot of customers flock to Kennett from mainstream brands like Hugo Boss, Michael Kors, Armani and Marc Jacobs because they want something that is more personal to them as an accessory. While our competitors have built substantial brands, they do face a challenge with saturating their own marketplace and that’s where we seem to have started to gain some traction recently. We have customers who are very vocal in telling us that they chose to buy a Kennett because they didn’t want to be like 80 per cent of the crowd out on a Saturday night wearing a mainstream brand on their wrist; they want to wear something that has a story and offered them a feeling of exclusivity and personality. We have done well online with various major online retailers, now the push is on to develop our physical retailers and we are concentrating on building our sales infrastructure across the UK just now. We have invested in leading POS systems and we have doubled the width of our collections over the last six months – we want to be a much bigger brand within the UK and international watch markets and we have developed our company’s infrastructure over the last year in particular to make sure that we have every chance of making that happen. We find that retailers and jewellers are increasingly receptive to Kennett as a viable, long-term brand for their store. It’s difficult being a ‘new’ brand but we are starting to see some great things happening.
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picks... A T
B A S E L W O R L D
The scale and splendour that is BaselWorld is bound to linger in the memory for many months after the event… so, as a reminder of the event that’s almost too imposingly deluxe to be called a trade show, Jeweller Picks rounds up a selection of its horological and jewellery highlights.
Georg Jensen
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Omega
Tag Heuer
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When Jack Heuer started to work on a new chronograph specifically designed for drivers and motor-racing enthusiasts in 1963, he knew he needed a wide-open, easy-to-read dial with a shock-resistant and waterproof case tough enough for road wear. The following year a mechanical, manual-wound chronograph called the Carrera was launched. The new Calibre 6, here, and the Calibre 18, are a vintage-look tribute to the original.
In anticipation of Spectre, the 24th James Bond film scheduled for release this year, Omega has created a limited edition Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model inspired by the Bond family coat of arms. The symbol creates a pattern on the watch’s dial and is also near the tip of the yellow central seconds hand. One striking element of this 41.5 mm stainless steel timepiece is the oscillating weight of the movement visible through the sapphire crystal caseback – the component resembles a Bond-like gun barrel. Powered by the completely new Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8507, this timepiece is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 15,007 gauss.
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Tudor
Rodney Rayner
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The watchmaker’s most recent manifestation of its partnership with Ducati motorcycles is the brushed steel, Fastrider chronograph, which is inspired by the non-conformist Scrambler bike. Three dials were designed to reflect the various versions of the bike: bright yellow, olive green and red – all stripped back to the essentials for maximum legibility. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of around 46 hours.
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Georg Jensen has created a new series of the iconic and radical Vivianna Bangle watch. Updated for 2015, the collection reflects the style, sophistication and attitude of the woman who created it: the designer and silversmith Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. First launched by Georg Jensen in 1969, the Vivianna bangle watch has been in production continuously ever since. The watch is available in a number of plain and pavé finishes.
This multi-award-winning British jeweller, renowned for his exciting use of coloured gemstones, creates luxury, fashion-forward pieces – all made by master craftsmen. Among the most popular of the new designs are stylised versions of a sea urchin – the shape and texture of which has long fascinated Rayner.
Stephen Webster
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Inspired by the Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery of the Cheapside Hoard, the British designer has created a fine collection that combines ‘the colour, craftsmanship and intrigue’ of the Hoard with the brand’s own design aesthetic. ‘Gold Struck’ uses clusters of bold and colourful gemstones including topaz, tanazanite, rubies, garnets, emeralds, green tourmaline, fire opal, orange sapphires and diamonds set into rose, yellow and white gold.
Meistersinger
The single-hand watch specialist has developed a dual timer, while maintaining the brand’s very particular aesthetic principals. The Adhaesio features an individual, needle-sharp hour hand pointing to the current time of day or night at the location of its wearer. Above the logo, an arrow points to the second local time on a 24-hour ring, which slowly rotates in a clockwise direction. These two times are separated by a second ring, which shows the date and moves in the opposite direction.
Hermes
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To celebrate its 60th anniversary, Corum has introduced the Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Flying Tourbillon, an example of haute horologerie complication that is an unorthodox as it is practical. Robust enough to be worn every day (the bridge and base plate are in stainless steel instead of softer brass) allowing the visual effect of the tourbillon seemingly floating as it makes one revolution a minute. The sapphire display back of the dodecagonal 18ct red gold watch gives a full view of the micro-rotor.
The music-loving watchmaker has created a luxurious model for the Nabucco collection – the Cello Tourbillon. The brainchild of the founder’s grandson Elie Bernheim, the timepiece takes inspiration from the instrument. A deconstructed cello, both facets are fitted with sapphire crystals, revealing the beauty of the mechanism. The movement bridges supporting the tourbillon escapement and mainspring barrel, take the form of the instrument’s ‘f’-holes. The hands are formed in the shape of a cello bow while the five lines of a musical stave are represented in the grooved bezel. Four cello strings are stretched taught across the dial of the watch.
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Corum
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Raymond Weil
Hermes’ new Slim d’Hermes watch line is an elegant exercise in minimalism, lightness and understatement. Shown here is the quartz movement lady size 32mm in rose gold with opaline silvered dial and alligator strap in blackcurrant. The model is also available set with 70 diamonds. Men’s models in the collection feature the Hermes Manufacture movement H1950 with features including perpetual calendar, power reserve, moon phases and day/night indicator.
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Saturday 12th to Monday 14th September
Adding value to your business
Presentations | Workshops | Discussion Sessions Information available from the IRV website www.jewelleryvaluers.org or Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 / irv@jewellers-online.org
THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS
Frederique Constant
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For those interested in the technology behind a smart watch, but prefer their timepiece to be beautiful and still tell the time, Frederique Constant, and sister brand Alpina, have launched the Horological Smartwatch, powered by MotionX®. Both are capable of bi-directional communication with iPhone and android apps but display traditional Swiss watch craftsmanship and classic looks (no digital screens here). Among the functions offered are: activity tracking, sleep monitoring, sleep cycle alarms and ‘Get-Active’ alerts.
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Breitling
Breitling has created its first connected chronograph – but without turning a watch into an extension dependent on a phone and less high-performance than the latter. The connection with the smartphone is primarily designed to improve its user friendliness. Owners of the B55 Connected can use their phone to perform certain adjustments (time-setting, time zones, alarms, display and operating parameters etc.). They may also upload the results of various measurements from the chronograph to the smartphone in order to read them more easily, store or forward them. Ultra functional looking, the B55 watch has a titanium case with black carbon-based coating.
Autore
Jewellery Theatre
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Jewellery combines with art to create collections that are rich with colour as well as imagination. The team of designers and master jewellers work with the most precious stones and metals for highly individual pieces that have been joined by three new collections – Carnival, Kaleidoscope and Rainforest. The ‘spring Venice’ ring seen here is crafted in 18ct white gold with a centre 12.28 ct tourmaline edged with coloured diamonds and sapphires.
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After a brief hiatus from the hurly burly of international trade shows, Australian South Sea pearl jewellery specialist Autore was back at Basel this year and with the attention-grabbing, red carpet-worthy pieces that it has become renowned for after 27 years in the industry. The design team this year was inspired by the native Australian orchid – in the case of this bracelet, the orange blossom orchid – that incorporates pearls with gemstones.
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Patek Philippe
This new Calatrava Pilot Travel Time watch pays tribute to the Geneva-based brand’s heritage in pilots’ watches. In white gold, it features the patented Travel Time mechanism, which simultaneously displays the time in two different time zones and also benefits from large, legible numerals with luminous coating. The local-hour time hand is moved conveniently forward or backward in one-hour increments via the pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock. The brown leather strap with contrast stitching adds a casual retro feel.
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Fabergé
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Minimatik is the latest automatic watch from Nomos – one of two slender ladies’ models that features the new DUW 3001 movement. The clean, minimal lines are typical of the brand and while the look is elegantly simple, the designers have added cheery touches: Bordeaux red lacquered hands, ink blue numerals and golden hour index. Ink blots on a school desk were apparently the source of inspiration.
Created as ‘an ode to the natural world’, ‘Secret Garden’s’ floral jewels are reminiscent of Marc Changall’s depictions of flowers and bouquets. The explosion of colour is the result of an unusual mix of materials including carved hardstone, gold and enamel… as well as gemstones creating the harmony of shades, for a collection comprising statement earrings and cocktail rings.
Rolex
Oris
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The new Oyster Perpetual DayDate 40 is the latest generation of the prestigious model first introduced in the late 1950s. It features a modernised design with a 40mm case and a new mechanical movement, calibre 3255, setting a new standard for chronometric performance. The movement offers specific benefits in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetism, ease of use and reliability. The watch is available in 950 platinum or 18ct white, yellow or rose gold.
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Nomos
In the second year of the partnership between Oris and Audi Sport, Oris has launched the Audi Sport Limited Edition II. The watch is dedicated to the Audi R18 e-tron quattro, featuring its silhouette on the case back. Engineered to be as light and as strong as possible, the all-black watch has a series of innovative features, such as its automatic chronograph, powered by Oris Calibre 778, which features a 10-minute countdown.
Judith Ripka
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New York-based jewellery designer Judith Ripka is renowned for her eye for colour and passion for stones – diamonds as well as coloured gemstones. The intricate details that she incorporates into her pieces create a distinctive look for the 18ct gold and silver collections – as seen in these ‘Delfina’ earrings.
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Coming together will make us stronger We believe that the unification of the British Jewellers’ Association and The National Association of Goldsmiths will create an organisation that, for the first time ever, will truly represent and support our entire industry in all its breadth and diversity. The National Association of Jewellers will not only benefit its members but the UK jewellery consumer, which has to be good for everyone involved with jewellery.
Name Mark Adlestone John Ball Andy Bass Steve Bennett Ashley Carson David Doyle Patrick Fuller Stephen M Goldsmith, FIPG, MBGG Tom Green Ian Hall Dick Hank David Harnby Seb Hobbs Jason Holt CBE Adam Jacobs Sarah Jordan Michael Laing OBE Stella Layton Harry Levy Fei Liu Neil McFarlane Andrew Morton James Newman Apple Nootenboom, CRAeC, FGA, DGA, FIPG, MBGG Richard Oldroyd Robert Organ Martyn Pugh Mike Taylor Peter Taylor Scott Walter Stephen Webster Howard Weiner Stephen Whittaker Stuart Wibberley Sam Willoughby
Title Chairman Director Director Owner Assay Master Owner Chairman Owner Director Director SaferGems Manager
Company Beaverbrooks the Jewellers Brown and Newirth Bass Premier / IDJC The Genuine Gemstone Company Sheffield Assay Office
Director Managing Director Chairman Director Owner Owner Assay Master President Owner Managing Director Managing Director
Seiko UK Signet Trading (H. Samuel, Ernest Jones) Holts and Holts Academy
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Owner Managing Director Chairman Managing Director Assay Master Owner Director Director Assay Master Owner Managing Director Managing Director UK Group Manager Event Director
Jewellery Brokers WB The Creative Jewellery Group SMG (Kent) Charles Green & Son Lasting Impressions (Devon) British Security Industry Association
Jacobs Sarah Jordan Laing Edinburgh Birmingham Assay Office London Diamond Bourse Fei Liu Fine Jewellery T. H. March & Co. WB The Creative Jewellery Group (Domino) James Newman Jewellery Hean Studios Institute of Professional Goldsmiths Cooksongold London Assay Office Martyn Pugh Goldsmith and Silversmith Jewel Street Goldsmiths’ Centre Edinburgh Assay Office Stephen Webster Presman (Bullion) Fellow Auctioneers Allgemeine International Jewellery London
For more information please contact: unification@jewellers-online.org
The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG. Telephone: 020 7613 4445. www.jewellers-online.org British Jewellers’ Association Federation House, 10 Vyse Street, Birmingham, B18 6LT. Telephone: 0121 237 1110. www.bja.org.uk
REGULAR
Brand Profile
Tateossian This year the brand that began with a small (but perfectly formed) collection of cufflinks turns 25 and has grown to be a globally-renowned player in the wider jewellery and watch market. Belinda Morris spoke to founder Robert Tateossian.
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as there something in the water in 1990… something enriching burgeoning creative souls? The evidence is there – this year marks quite a few 25th anniversaries in the jewellery and fashion world, a notable one being Tateossian. And while owner/ founder/creative driving force Robert Tateossian has kept pretty focussed on offering accessibly priced and designed collections, the breadth of that offer has developed significantly over the quarter century. “If a man is looking for an accessory, he can buy it from us,” he promises. Which means that the cufflinks – while remaining at the heart of business – have been joined by watches (which were introduced 15 years ago), bracelets, tie clips and pins, money clips, necklaces, stud sets, wallets, pens and even a silk pocket square once a season (to complement a cufflink motif). There’s also a women’s line, although the 18ct gold jewellery – along with the oneof-a-kind ‘Rare Stone’ collection – is created specifically for Tateossian’s own stores.
56 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Retail has been a particular development witnessed by Tateossian since its birth. While the internet with on-line sales of jewellery, has been the single biggest change over those years, and certainly significant for the brand, bricks and mortar stores have also played an important role. In 2001 the brand opened its first stand-alone store in the Royal Exchange in the City of London and, most recently a shop appeared in Westfield London followed by another on the West End’s prestigious Conduit Street and two in Chelsea. In 2011 the first international stand-alone was opened in Yerevan, Armenia, but in fact Tateossian is available in 71 countries across the world, from Siberia to Saudi Arabia. Which is appropriate enough for a man who was born in Kuwait, educated at French schools in Rome, had a financial career on Wall Street and in London and speaks seven languages fluently. In the early days all the manufacture was carried out in workshops in Birmingham, but as the company grew and
the collection broadened, so the production moved further afield. “We had to shift some of it and it is now split between the UK, Italy, China and Thailand – especially for work such as micropavé diamonds (Indians do it best) and stone-cutting. Some of our Chinese customers want goods that are made in the UK, but it’s very difficult. Those manufacturers left in the UK are just making for themselves,” Tateossian explains.
sellers have been, how many have sold, what new materials we’ve seen. Creating new pieces is the fun part of the job, with furniture and architecture being the two big areas of inspiration.”
The cosmopolitan-ness of it all notwithstanding, Tateossian the brand is, he insists, most certainly British. “It was born here and designed here; London is the essence of everything that we do. There’s a definite style that comes out of being British, a certain expectation of something tonguein-cheek perhaps, something unexpected,” says Tateossian. “The UK is also respected for its quality, delivery of service, trustworthiness and reliability.”
market has developed in the last six years – bracelets in particular have gained a lot of momentum and we’ve really expanded that area,” he says. “Pins are another growing trend – it came from the Italians and then Lanvin and now a lot of men are wearing them. We’re looking to do fob chains for [the forthcoming] Pitti Uomo and I have a feeling that necklaces – having been out for about 15 years – will come back.”
While he’s not a designer and isn’t usually to be found getting his hands dirty at the bench, the nuts and bolts of the trade are by no means unfamiliar to Tateossian – he’s picked up a thing or two over the past 25 years. “I’ve learned about proportions and colours, and the design starts with me in terms of the direction we take,” he says. “With our creative director Ariel Thompson I look at it analytically – what the best
And while everything about the very cool and quietly urbane Robert Tateossian says ‘measured’ and ‘unlikely to jump on a passing band wagon’, he’s not above taking a considered punt on a new trend. “The men’s
And while the now fully comprehensive watch collection is pitched price-wise to be an impulse/accessory purchase, rather than to compete with ‘the big boys’, Robert Tateossian is certainly keeping a weather eye on horological matters. “We’re now thinking about new technology – you have to keep on top of it,” he says. Meanwhile, off on a slightly different tangent, he’s been flirting with the notion of room fragrances… you heard it here first.
AT THE BENCH
Understanding
mounting London-based Vince Loveland has a jewellery workshop where he employs a mounter (as well as a setter, polisher and laser repairer). He produces for a number of jewellery designers and businesses, including British jewellery brand Augustine Jewels, whose owner/designer Alexandra Morris Robson works exclusively with craftsmen in England. Mounter using a scorper
on the surface of metal. This is done with a scriber, which is a steel tool that scores the metal. You also need a steel ruler and a needle file as well as other basic tools including saw frames, hammers, pliers and gas torches. Various scorpers are used for cutting and slicing metal. A steel triblet is used for truing mounts and shaping rings, and of course you need a vice to hold the work securely, whether it’s in your hand or attached to the bench. What particular skills do you need to be a mounter? Apart from having a good eye for design and laying-out, a mounter needs to have decent hand-eye co-ordination. You need to understand the properties of the different metals you might be working with – they all have different melting points. When making a mount you work to the stones, so it’s also important to know about the stones – some are softer than others and can chip. What qualifications do you need? How long does it take to train to be a mounter? There are no specific qualifications for jewellery mounting. The various techniques (like rub-over, claw, pavé, channel and tension) are covered in general jewellery courses, which can be studied at different levels in different ways. The Goldsmiths’ Company runs its own five-year apprenticeship scheme and Holts Academy offers apprenticeships in jewellery manufacture. But when you’re actually in the business you’re learning all the time. What is your working relationship with others in the industry (for instance designers and setters)? It’s not one person behind the making of a piece of jewellery, it’s a team, so you have to be able to work closely with a number of people. The starting point is sitting down with the designer so make sure that you accurately interpret what they want. It’s not the case with Alexandra’s of course (!) but obviously you come across some designs that are not so well-drawn. It’s not a problem for the mounter – it just means that you have to sit with the designer for a little longer.
What exactly does a mounter do? What does the job entail? The mounter’s job is to make the framework or structure of a piece of jewellery – usually in gold, silver or platinum, although other metals may be used. This framework is referred to as the mount and it is then passed onto the setter who places and secures the stones in the mount. It’s not uncommon for the processes of mounting and setting to be confused and taken, wrongly, to mean the same thing.
How easy is it for designers to find mounters to work with? It’s not as easy as it was – the craft is in danger of dying out because of lost-wax casting and CAD.
What different sorts of work do mounters do and how does the mounter produce each type? There are two main types of mounts and which one is used will depend on whether the finished piece is simple and sturdy or more intricate and airy. For bespoke pieces the mount will be hand-made or else drawn on CAD and then digitally printed using a 3D scanner. For small batches the mounter usually casts mounts – which are then cleaned and polished. For a volume order it would be more usual for ready-made mounts to be bought ‘off the peg’, which are made to fit the more popular standard shapes and cuts of stones like round, square, oval and emerald. What kind of tools does a mounter use (and for what purpose)? Mounters use a range of tools at their bench. Dividers (a bit like a drawing compass) are used to mark set distances or for making circles
58 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
Augustine engagement ring
SKYGUARD’S PERSONAL SAFETY DEVICE COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE! Skyguard’s personal safety service provides 24-hour protection at the simple touch of a button. Using GPS-enabled devices fitted with mobile phone technology, you can raise the alarm wherever you are, whatever the time. ALARM Using palm-sized personal safety alarms, specifically and exclusively developed by Skyguard, fitted with the latest mobile phone and GPS technology, a call for help is just one button away. 24 HOUR BACKUP At the press of a button, Skyguard’s Controllers will be on hand to backup and assist in any emergency... at any time. As soon as the alarm is raised, Controllers will know who you are, where you are, vital details and your personalised contacts. RESPONSIVE Skyguard has direct access to Police control rooms, bypassing the 999 service and providing a faster response in an emergency. GPS LOCATING Upon alarm activation, Controllers can pinpoint your exact location as seen on an on-screen map - vital for directing help to your position... fast!
TWO-WAY AUDIO Skyguard’s alarms come equipped with two-way audio, which allows Controllers to talk to and reassure the user when the alarm is activated, if safe to do so. MANDOWN ALARM Automatically sends an alarm to Skyguard in the event of a fall or sudden impact – vital if you slip, trip or are knocked unconscious and unable to raise an alarm manually. CARRY The compact and lightweight design of Skyguard’s MySOS device makes it convenient to use in everyday situations. It can be worn around the neck, attached to a keyring, a belt or in an identity badge holder. SHARE / POOL DEVICES Share personal safety devices between multiple users at no extra cost. Changes can be made instantly via Skyguard’s online Customer Service Centre portal.
For more information about how Skyguard can protect you and your employees, contact the Membership department on:
020 7613 4445
The National Association of Goldsmiths
www.jewellers-online.org
www.skyguardgroup.com
BM U ES M I NBEESRS BSEUNP EP FOI T R ST : I N S U R A N C E
Insurance
Better than a sleeping pill … and not just because (as some people think) it’s boring! TH March’s Neil McFarlane has remedies to soothe the fevered brow.
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t happens to the best of us… one moment comfortably sound asleep in bed, the next instant wide awake and worrying, heart thumping, and panic rising. It’s a lonely place to be in the early hours of the morning, especially when the house is dark and quiet and there are others fast asleep close-by, blissfully unaware of your torment.
As a business owner you’ve probably suffered more than your fair share of nocturnal fretting sessions: “What if I’m sued?” “What will happen to my family if I’m taken ill?” ‘What if something happens to my premises and I can’t continue to trade?” Oh the scourge of the dreadful ‘what ifs?’. The trick is to deal with them before they ever happen. Imagining your worst case scenarios and putting an action plan in place to deal with them is a fantastic way of putting both you and your worries to bed. Here’s how…
It is often the case that when you are a business owner you will insure your business premises. But your greatest asset of all is you. If you’re taken ill or injured you will want to get back on your feet as quickly as possible with help from a specialist of your choosing. Private medical insurance will help you do that. Remedy Part 2: Sound Financial Planning – as soon as you like! Every day in the UK more than 1,300 people die, some completely unexpectedly. So for the sake of your family and any partners you may have in your business, decide now what it is you want to happen while you still can. Sort out your partnership or shareholder agreement so that everyone knows what to do and what to expect. Don’t dismiss the need for life insurance; find out about it, and then make an informed decision. Ideally you should involve your accountant to make sure that everything is tax efficient, and you should involve your solicitor to both make sure the agreements are sound and to check your articles of association. It makes good sense to get all your advisers to work together in order to arrive at the best solutions for you and your business. Make sure the right people are getting the right money at the right time and that your business, that you have worked hard to build up, isn’t wasted in a drawn-out probate or its value destroyed through a forced sale or closure.
If you want to create a realistic disaster scenario for YOUR business talk to your insurance broker! When it comes to disaster-planning for your business/home/health/ holiday, etc., you’d be hard pressed to find a more imaginative, reliable and useful ally than your insurance broker. Someone who knows you and understands the intricacies and risks associated with your particular line of work. Such a person could potentially be of far more use than your doctor when it comes to helping you sleep at night! True, an insurance broker can’t give you a prescription for sleeping pills. Instead, the remedy will likely be a tailored insurance package designed to take your night-time worries away. Here are some insurance cures for three very common concerns: “What if I’m sued?” Remedy: Directors’ and Officers’ liability cover is what you need. A director’s personal liabilities are unlimited and in the course of carrying out everyday duties for a company, directors are potentially exposing themselves to personal lawsuits, investigations and criminal prosecutions. Without the right insurance, directors can end up having to re-mortgage (or worse), just to pay legal fees. If or when a director needs to defend lawsuits, investigations and prosecutions, being able to draw on insurance funds in order to hire the best law firms in the country will help to achieve the best possible outcome. There are an increasing number of government bodies that can investigate a company. These include the DTI’s Companies Investigations Branch, the Health & Safety Executive (HSE), the Serious Fraud Office and the Disability Rights Commission, to name just a few. There is an increasing focus on smaller businesses so it is sensible for all company directors to have the right cover. “What will happen to my family/business if I’m taken ill?” Remedy Part 1: Private Medical Insurance. This will give you access to medical treatment, with the freedom to choose who treats you, where and when. Every person is unique so your individual health cover should be tailored to suit your specific needs and budget.
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“What if something happens to my premises and I can’t continue to trade?” Remedy: Business Interruption Insurance. Imagine you’ve had a fire or your premises have been flooded. Obviously your business insurance policy will normally cover the damage to premises and stock. But if you also have business interruption cover, additional costs such as hiring temporary premises will be met. Crucially this means you’re more likely to be able to continue trading during the subsequent repair, rebuild or clean-up period enabling you to maintain both cash flow and customers. Business Interruption Insurance will also replace the gross profit for your business for the period that the business is interrupted by an insured risk (such as a fire or flood). This covers the recovery of customers phase. Many who don’t have Business Interruption cover will go out of business within 12 months of a major incident. Don’t let that happen to you!
Learn from a dynamic network of independant jewellers like you Become part of a dynamic co-operative that exists to benefit you, the independent jeweller. The CMJ is much more than a buying group offering preferential terms. It is a network of retail members across the UK and Ireland, who together with the CMJ’s executive team, approved suppliers and professional experts can provide support, advice and friendship. Call Lucy, our membership services manager, on 01788 540250 to find out how we can help you.
REGULAR
Where to go, what to see and… Trade Fairs May 28th – 1st June: Couture, Wynn Resort, Las Vegas, USA An exclusive and intimate destination for the luxury and timepiece market. www.thecoutureshow.com 29th – 1st June: JCK Las Vegas, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA Gem and jewellery show including bridal, designers, diamond, gemstones, fashion jewellery and Luxury and Elite areas. lasvegas.jckonline.com June 11th: BJA Gold Tournament 2015, Ladbrook Park Golf Club, Tanworth-in-Arden Nine- and 18-hole competitions. Open to all the trade, plus guests. For details and to sign up contact emma.rankin@bja.org.uk 17th: UK Jewellery Awards, The Tower of London A night of glamour, celebration and entertainment as the best players in the industry are rewarded. https://awards. retail-jeweller.com/ July 19th: Harrogate Home & Gift 2015, Harrogate, Yorkshire Jewellery, fashion accessories and homeware are among the design-led and everyday gifts. www.homeandgift.co.uk 26th – 28th: JA New York, Javits Convention Center, New York, USA Intimate, boutique-style fair showcasing international 500+ jewellery brands and designers. www.ja-newyork.com August 2nd – 4th: Pure London, Olympia Over 800 brands showing women’s and men’s fashion, accessories and jewellery (Lola Rose, Tatty Devine, Dyrberg Kern),
62 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
including Pure Rocks: designer, semi-precious and fine jewellery. www.purelondon.com
N.A.G. events and courses May 20th: Members’ Day, N.A.G., Luke Street, London. The Unification Working Group will be available to discuss any questions or concerns that members might have. From 10.00 am – 12.30 pm. Contact: eleonore.beahan@jewellers-online.org for details.
Pure London
9th – 10th: CMJ Autumn Trade Event, Birmingham’s Hilton Metropole Hotel Invited suppliers will present products and services to retail members of the buying group. The event includes a gala dinner and award presentations. www. masterjewellers.co.uk
Sales & Exhibitions Current – 31st: Ute Decker at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, West Bretton, Wakefield An exhibition of the ethical designer’s wearable sculptures, to coincide with a major Henry Moore retrospective. www.ysp.co.uk June 5th – 14th July: Free Range Art+Design Shows, The Old Truman Brewery, London E1 Graduate art season showcasing a different discipline each week, including fashion and jewellery. Middlesex Art & Design’s jewellery course will exhibit between 25th – 29th June. www.free-range.org.uk
27th: Members’ Day, Federation House, Birmingham The Unification Working Group will be available to discuss any questions or concerns that members might have. From 1.00 – 3.30pm. Contact: eleonore.beahan@jewellers-online.org for more details. June 8th: N.A.G. 2015 International Golf Tournament, Formby Golf Resort, Liverpool. Teams from England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales open to all sectors of the industry plus guests. Contact Frank Wood: golf@braithwaitesjewellers.com 10th: EDF Congress, Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel, Oxford Open to all N.A.G. members, this key fixture in the calendar offers practical talks designed to have a direct impact on your bottom line. Contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or amandaw@ jewellers-online.org 16th: N.A.G. Annual General Meeting, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London The AGM will include the vote on the N.A.G.’s unification with the BJA. If you care about the future of the Association… be there! For full details please contact the N.A.G.: events@jewellers-online.org 16th: BJA EGM, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London. If proposed N.A.G./BJA unification is ratified at the N.A.G. AGM, then BJA members will vote on the name change at this EGM. www.bja.org.uk July 8th: Developing Sales Skills, London. Sales training specialist Virada offers this one-day course covering managing customer interaction, presenting, helping with decision-making, reassuring the customer and developing commitment. For details: amandaw@jewellers-online.org 8th: Introduction to JET courses, venue TBC, Yorkshire Sponsored by IJL, with prize draw to win VIP package to attend IJL in September. 9th: Introduction to JET courses, venue TBC, South West. Sponsored by IJL, with prize draw to win VIP package to attend IJL in September.
New Designers – Flora Bhattachary
18th – 28th: Olympia International Art & Antiques Fair, Olympia, London W14 A later date for this major event showcasing a wide choice of high quality, vetted arts and antiques. www.olympia-art-antiques.com
24th – 27th: New Designers Part 1: Business Design Centre, Islington. See the latest generation of designers across a number of disciplines – jewellery, precious metalwork, ceramics and glass. www.newdesigners.com
what to read! Wartski – The First 150 Years by Geoffrey Munn (£65, ACC Publishing) Geoffrey Munn’s Wartski – The First 150 Years is rich in anecdote, glossy with plates, all beautifully bound. He is amply qualified: joining Wartski in 1972, his mentor was Fabergé expert Kenneth Snowman, whose father Emmanuel took over the business after marrying Wartski’s daughter. Munn is now MD of the Mayfairbased family business, which rather charmingly declares itself over the door as Wartski of Llandudno.
Get Ahead with a GIA Education With a GIA diploma on your wall and a credential next to your name, you instantly communicate your expertise and credibility.
Morris Wartski opened a shop in Llandudno in 1910 after a chance meeting with the eccentric 5th Marquess of Anglesea. His love of extravagant jewels initially supported the firm, then nearly bankrupted it. Another shop opened in London in 1913. Generous and ebullient, Morris cultivated a wide and interesting circle – his legal advisor was David Lloyd George. Snowman Senior and Junior also found that Wartski clients became friends – Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby, John F. and Jackie Kennedy, King Faisal II and the Sitwells all have walkon parts in this book. Others great and good (or not so good) bought extravagant gifts in flush times only to have to sell them back again. The book is studded with fascinating details: names, dates and prices enhanced by a wealth of tales.
Learn more at www.gia.edu
Munn is honest about the controversy surrounding Wartski in the 1920s, when it acquired Russian art – much by Fabergé – purloined by the Soviets from dead royalty or fleeing aristocrats. He also reveals how variable public opinion of Fabergé can be: a small minority showed outright hostility to the 1953 exhibition but by the V&A 1977 Silver Jubilee show this had been swept away. Both events bolstered Wartski as the foremost dealer in Fabergé… and not just Fabergé. The shop has also handled the most exquisite 18th century snuff boxes and some fascinating dispersals, including the estate of a gluttonous King Farouk. The book is full of curiosities: an impressed Ian Fleming featured Kenneth Snowman – and the shop – in a James Bond story; Tony Benn renounced his title (Viscount Stansgate) and Snowman advised on the disposal of his (silver) coronet. Unsurprisingly, Fabergé objects abound – including my favourite, a gardening knife, with a gold mounted hardstone snail. It looks as if it has just been lifted from a trug, having recently pruned something. Jewellery appears towards the end of the book: Giuliano and Castellani, Van Cleef and Arpels, Lalique and ending with contemporary work by Courts and Hackett, Martin Baker and Kevin Coates. The book is glossy, factual, weighty and a good read, even if opened at random.
The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology™ 104 Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3LA, UK T +44 (0) 207 813 4321 • E gialondon@gia.edu Registered Charity No: 1101116
Christopher Hamilton ADV15EN0115_R8.indd 1
4/24/15 10:15 AM
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 63
T H E
J E W E L L E R
c l a s s i f i e d s
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Special Approval Enquiries Diamond Jewellery All Styles Leslie Donn Ltd
454 Bury Old Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1NL
Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk
Engravers
For sale
For Sale
Machine Engraving available on request
Established jewellers for sale in Hereford
Watchmaker, Jewellers, Pawnbrokers
NAG Prize Winners
MASTERS Hand Engravers
Contemporary jewellers in excellent position near cathedral, for sale due to retirement. Profitable business established for over 35 years with excellent reputation. Own workshop with strong trade in custom design and repairs.
Rochford, Essex
EST 1958, same hands since 1972 • Period shop, low rent, rates • Onsite equipped workshop • Stock custom designs handmade onsite • Lots of repairs • Old gold and second hand jewellery bought & sold • Over £40,000-00 spent on updates in last two years • New Bransom Bsmart stock/till system • LED Lighting • Air conditioning throughout • Electric security shutter • Electric shop blind • CCTV, coin and note counters
Traditional hand engraving service at its best. Competitive price structure with fast delivery and turnaround.
Bespoke cabinets, computerised till and stock system, safes, air conditioning, CCTV and alarm.
07768 893474
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Having the
LAST WORD With timepieces being the main focus of editorial attention in this issue we thought it particularly apt to give the Last Word to Mark Toulson who is head of watch buying at Aurum Holdings. Personal profile Mark Toulson has worked in the industry for around 25 years starting as an allocator for jewellery at Zales to his current role at Aurum Holdings Ltd, which trades through Goldsmiths, Goldsmiths Boutique, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland in over 140 locations in the UK. He considers himself lucky to be part of “a great team of people who love product and work extremely hard to delivery success over a number of years”.
Who has been the biggest influence on your life? In life it has to be your parents who are the biggest influences. If they are not then they aren’t doing their job correctly! So… my mum and dad! Did you choose watches or did they choose you? A bit of both really. My dad worked in the industry so I developed an interest in watches from an early age. Optional careers would have, of course, been a male model or perhaps an international playboy but neither worked out for me so watches it was! Seriously though, I’m incredibly lucky to work ‘in watches’. It’s totally brilliant. What three words describe you best… in your view AND according to others? Interested. Happy. Thoughtful. Other people’s opinions matter… though I wouldn’t live or die by what anyone else thought of me. Others might hopefully say I’m patient, knowledgeable and humorous. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I’m a great believer in keeping my mouth closed and my ears open. I’ve learned much more that
66 THE JEWELLER MAY/JUNE 2015
way than by talking over people – particularly at the beginning of my career when I listened to people like Eddie Orchard. Listening is very important. That said, I should probably be a little more vocal at times. Another thing is emails. I’m a great one for firing off emails and I think that not just me but all of us should pick up the phone and talk more. What has been the highest point of your career so far? In terms of a project it’s the Watches of Switzerland showroom we opened on Regent Street last year. The project name was ‘Landmark’ and with good reason too. It’s the standout watch showroom in the UK, if not the world and it was a privilege to work on it.
If you could wave a magic wand and change any element of the jewellery industry, what would it be? Retailers and brands should swap chairs in meetings. I think if we each understood the other’s perspective and pressures we would work together so much better.
What’s your guiltiest pleasure? People need to be honest when answering a question like this one, but for fear of arrest or public ridicule I’ll go with having a deep and unswerving loyalty to The Archers and Coronation Street! Tell us something not many people know about you… I once ate 19 Cadbury’s Cream Eggs for charity. I still feel sick when I think about it now… I won the competition though! Any alternative career? When I left university I considered becoming a teacher. Fortunately for children everywhere I soon got over that idea.
What was the last film you saw at the cinema? My daughter wanted to see Exodus so we went. It was dreadful! What were they thinking?
Favourite shopping destination I don’t have one to be honest. I really like bike shops though so anywhere that sells beautiful bicycles would be good.
If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? None really. I live in the moment and plan for the future by learning from the past.
Do you Tweet? No, but I do follow several people: watchy-type things, cyclists and OCD nightmares… which is great for me. What keeps you awake at night? Absolutely nothing! Quick fire • Two wheels or four? I love bicycles… but I don’t ride enough. I’d like to say two, but best I go with four wheels. • Jewellery on men? Not for me. • Delegator or control freak? I don’t delegate enough. I’ve been wrestling with the control freak aspect of my personality all my life. It’s difficult! • Cosy night in or wild night out? A wild night out… that finishes about 9pm so I can get home and go to bed.
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