MARCH/APRIL 2015
T H E
V O I C E
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£7.50
I N D U S T R Y
Gems&Jewellery IN CONJUNCTION WITH
March/A
pril 201
Tucso n 2015 Treas ures of the Hand Salsig s-on ne M look ine at dia mond inclus ions
In this issue THE BIG ONE! BASELWORLD PREVIEW THE LOW-DOWN ON SUCCESSFUL PR EPoS — SPOTLIGHT ON RETAIL SYSTEMS
5 / Volu
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/ No.
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CONTENTS & CONTACTS
MAKE TIME FOR THE BIG ONE Editor’s Letter
5
Michael Makes His Point
7
Industry News
8
N.A.G. Roundup
14
Focus on Education
18
Ethical
32
At the Bench: Understanding Stone Setting
34
Gemstones: Sapphire
47
Business Support: Security
48
Flying the Flag
50
Where to Go, What to See… And What to Read
52
Business Support: Insurance
54
Letter to the Editor
56
Member Benefits: Business Travel
58
Brand Profile: Sif Jakobs
61
The Classifieds
64
Last Word
66
March/April 2015 / Volume 24 / No. 2
Tucson 2015 Treasures of the Salsigne Mine Hands-on look at diamond inclusions
Gems&Jewellery Includes a review of the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show 2015, the treasures of the Salsigne mine, a hands-on look at diamond inclusions and more...
COVER IMAGE In conjunction with Norman Silverman Diamonds UK Contact: Julie Richter Tel: +44 7766 729 558 (or CA office: +1-213-687-3985) info@normansilvermandiamonds.com www.normansilvermandiamonds.com
20
A last-minute preview of what will be on show at Basel
36
SPREADING THE WORD Belinda Morris gets to grips with PR – from three different perspectives
EPoS Retail systems under the spotlight: a case-history lesson and what’s new from four sectorspecialist providers
38
POSITIVE VIBES FROM THE AISLES
61
A report from Jewellery & Watch Birmingham, the CMJ Spring Event and Rock Vault
The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com Sales Director: Ian Francis The National Association Tel: 020 7749 1705 of Goldsmiths Fax: 020 7729 0143 78a Luke Street, ian.francis@jewellers-online.org London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 Publishing Enquiries/ www.jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford CEO: Michael Rawlinson neil.oakford@jewellers-online.org michael.rawlinson@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Editor: Belinda Morris Richard Cohen bmorris@colony.co.uk Andrew Fellows Art Director: Ben Page Lee Henderson ben.page@jewellers-online.org The N.A.G. is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The N.A.G. accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3
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COMMENT
Editor’s Letter As we go to press we’re just three weeks away from the Big One – BaselWorld. Preparing an editorial preview of this show is never easy; far from being keen to talk to the press ahead of the event, many of the major
This month: “Basel is the oxygen to revive your thoughts and hopes for the following year, and the chance see new and old suppliers and find new trends.” Page 20
watch players in particular maintain a steely silence. New collections and innovations remain shrouded in secrecy until the last possible moment (to protect from copy-cats or to preserve the element of surprise… or both), and then ‘ta-da!’… by which time it’s too late, the magazine is printed. Hey ho.
No matter though – there’s obviously so much to see at the fair, that any preview can only hope to scratch the surface of what will be revealed. Turn to p20 to get a snapshot overview of the market and a taster of new lines (jewellery as well as watches of course) from those brands who were happy to talk.
Most of the time, and at any other point in year, we journalists find that most people are reasonably happy to talk to us! ‘All publicity is good publicity’ maybe a questionable maxim, but on the whole when it comes to marketing a brand (whether a supplier’s or a retailer’s) PR is seen as a desirable thing. And occasionally an elusive one. So, for those who are currently mithering on the subject, we speak to a specialist PR agency, an in-house press officer and a media-savvy retailer, to get the who, where, what, why and when of talking to the press.
Another, occasionally thorny matter, that we’ve looked into this month, is EPoS. As well as news and views from the systems frontline, we have one man’s spoken-from-the-heart, learned-the-hard-way lesson on EPoS for the unwary, uninitiated or just plain nervous. We hope the writing of his experience (so that you won’t make the mistakes that he says he did) has been cathartic!
“A good system will provide a central hub for almost every part of your business – seamlessly linking front of house with engine room…” Page 38
And talking of getting things off one’s chest, there’s still time (before the vote at our AGM in June) to raise any questions that you may have regarding the N.A.G./BJA unification. Dissenters have been very thin on the ground, but one voice has been raised recently so on p56 we offer a robust and balanced debate on the subject. Don’t publish and be damned!
If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at bmorris@colony.co.uk
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5
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COMMENT
Michael makes his point L
ife is a balancing act. The problem is, if we only do the things that today demands, we’re hindered in making those all-important longer-term plans that allow us to build and work towards a key goal or larger vision. On the other hand, if we’re always fixated on the bigger picture, nothing ever gets done. That’s why, as business leaders, we need to balance our time, thinking and effort and also build strong capable teams so that we can use the skills and capabilities of others to support us, making the whole greater than the sum of its parts.
For me the key goal for the new association is to do all we can to help you, our members, to sell more jewellery. To achieve this there are a number of things we need to do. We need to make jewellery and watches desirable and aspirational; to emphasise the wearing of jewellery as fashionable and create a sense of luxury and specialness around the owning and gifting of jewellery and watches. PR and marketing are key drivers in this, but the customer experience also needs to deliver in-store and online, making professionalism and the quality of staff-training essential.
This is the way in which I am thinking in relation to the unification process we’re currently going through with the BJA. The BJA’s team and membership are going to add to and complement our own. What’s more, we should not be looking at this process as a takeover or a merger, but rather as building a new organisation, fit for the 21st century.
Consumers need to feel confident when buying too; so jewellers must act with integrity – not only for themselves but also with each other. After all, what kind of message are we sending out to consumers when what they are told by one jeweller is then criticised or contradicted by another? The fact is that, when the consumer becomes unsure and loses
The new association will have a strong code of practice… collectively we’ll build a membership that will be known for its professionalism and integrity.
confidence, the whole industry loses out, not just you! That’s why the new association will have a strong code of practice, which all members will be asked to sign up to. Collectively we’ll build a membership that will be known for its professionalism and integrity. Naturally, we hope you share our vision for the future and, if so, we would ask you to please vote for the unification with the BJA, either in person or by proxy, at this summer’s AGM.
industry extend beyond these shores and require multiple stakeholder support. Diamond reports and their credibility, for example, are again under scrutiny. I doubt that this is an matter that can be easily resolved. When there is money to be made from an approach that is, shall we say, less than honest, arriving at a solution will take time, resolve and commitment from the majority to isolate and drive out the few.
The Association provides many ways to support its members in improving their knowledge and skills. The JET courses, for example, are not just for new staff. JET Management and Business Development support management and business owners so please do consider embarking upon one of these courses. In June, meanwhile, the annual Executive Development Forum Congress will be held in Oxford. This year the theme is ‘Engage your Customers by Engaging your Staff’, which is designed to help achieve the goals I have set out for the new association. The congress is open to all N.A.G. members so why not consider attending yourself or sending along one of your store managers? It will be a great day, and I’m convinced that you’ll return with more than one good idea that you can put into practice to make your business better, stronger and more profitable. To book your place, please contact Amanda White at the Association.
The subject of diamond reports throws up one or two concerns. There’s the simple case of dishonest people running dishonest labs, providing reports without even having seen the stone, or else asking what you want the report to say. This is not just poor grading; it is simply wrong and dishonest — we need a system to deal with the culprits and a place where complaints can be logged and investigated and sanctions passed. For the honest labs, we need agreed terminology, standards to create consistency and, where available, equipment and instruments to carry out the work. However, let’s not forget that a diamond grading report is just that: a report. As things stand, it can only tell us so much about a stone — ultimately its beauty is in the eye of the beholder. We will, of course, continue to work on this project, updateing you as things progress.
Finally, it’s undoubtedly the case that some issues within the
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 7
INDUSTRY NEWS
New global initiative planned by IJL I
nternational jewellery London has announced the launch of IJL Market Focus – a major new initiative aimed at creating commercial and cultural trade partnerships. The first of these, chosen for the event at Olympia (6th – 8th September), will put Italy under the spotlight with ‘In Stile Italiano a IJL’, showcasing an edited collection of ‘inspirational’ Italian exhibitors.
Each year a new country or region will be showcased as a conduit to strengthen opportunities for business worldwide. This year’s first Market Focus highlights Italy’s dynamic jewellery industry, with its rich heritage of artisan excellence and love of design. The project will be supported by a comprehensive marketing campaign with a series of features and events taking place
Awards EVENING at Jewellery & Watch Birmingham A
successful second day of the JWB fair at the NEC last month was topped off by an evening of industry awards. The Houlden Group named Siobhan Maher of Domino and Rachel Galley of Rachel Galley Jewellery Design the winners of the 2015 Bridal Design of the Year. Ruth Faulkner, Editor of Retail Jeweller, and Claire Ridley, Editor of Wedding, revealed the winning designs at the champagne reception. Maher was awarded the prize for the £1,500 to £3,000 retail price category for her ‘Rosebud’ design. The ring draws inspiration from the curling petals of a rosebud, with elegant asymmetric lines and a delicate stone in a
demi-flush setting. The £3,000 to £5,000 category saw Galley take home the award for her ‘Snowdrop Trilogy’, featuring a striking 18ct gold engagement and wedding ring set. Sponsored by the Spanish brand Unode50, the winners of the 2015 Buyers Power List were also announced. Split across six categories, the awards commend buyers from across the jewellery and watch spectrum, with the nominations being open to the public and then calling upon the shortlist to rank their peers within each category. The Best Independent Retailer accolade went to N.A.G. member Wongs of Liverpool, whose
Peter Wong of Wongs Jewellers with his Power List award for Best Independent Retailer, with Julie Driscoll of i2i and David Azulay of UNOde50.
8 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL JAN/FEB 2015 2015
at the show. The brands signed up so far are: Scala Gioielli & Figli, Oro Nero, Montaldi Gioielli, Ferrara GiFé Gioielli, Deil Joseph, Cesari Diffusione Di Simone Cesari and Bronzallure. Event director, Sam Willoughby, commented: “The new Market Focus promises to be a really powerful annual event at IJL. We hope that this feature will open doors to strengthen international
owner Peter Wong was there to take a bow. The notable success of the business over the last 35 years has aided several relocations to accommodate its growth. The award for Best Multiple Retailer was awarded to Goldsmiths for its fine collection of diamond jewellery, jewellery brands, fashion and prestige watches. The award for Best Individual Buyer was awarded to Ashley Pugh, MD of Eastbournebased independent W Bruford. Also announced at the show was that Sophie Lomax, a recent graduate from the Birmingham School of Jewellery, has been awarded the £5,000 bursary for 2015, launched in conjunction with this year’s show and in association with Birmingham City University. Mentored by members of the JWB Advisory Panel, who together developed the idea and direction for the bursary programme, Lomax will receive first-hand insight, support and guidance into the jewellery market, while gaining handson experience in a range of sectors such as retail, design, PR, marketing and brand development. The evening also provided the opportunity to announce the shortlist of retailers and suppliers in the UK Jewellery Awards. For the full list visit: https:// awards.retail-jeweller.com/
trade as well as increase awareness about the showcased market’s design set.” Over 70 per cent of IJL 2015 is now booked, with many of the signed-up exhibitors being international brands. These include two further Italian names – Fope and Ponte Vecchio; Denmark’s endless jewelry; Buchwald from Germany; Spanish fashion brand Unode50 and two new exhibitors from America – Samuel Aaron and Beverley K.
MBE for Lola Rose founder
Gewirtz, founder of N ikki fashionable jewellery brand Lola Rose, has been awarded the MBE for her outstanding services to jewellery design. She received the award from Prince William (who is a customer, having bought a signature heart necklace for his wife). Self-taught, the London-based designer launched Lola Rose from her bedroom in 2000. What began as a string of gemstone beads on a woven silk cord has since grown to comprise two full collections a year featuring contemporary designs using a selection of metals alongside the melange of coloured stones. The brand has stockists around the world and a string of high profile fans including Halle Berry, Sarah Jessica Parker, Pixie Lott… as well as the Duchess of Cambridge.
N.A.G./BJA diamond grading meeting M
embers of the BJA and N.A.G. recently met to discuss the apparent anomalies between diamond grades attributed to stones by different diamond grading organisations. At the meeting, with key representatives from the UK diamond trading, manufacturing and retailing sectors, it was agreed that a questionnaire should be drawn up by the two associations which will be sent to diamond grading facilities worldwide asking them to voluntarily supply basic information about themselves. The agreed aim of this questionnaire is to fully understand such factors as management structure, grading processes, access to new technology, availability of master stones in addition to staff qualifications and experience for each laboratory contacted. From the disseminated responses, the BJA and N.A.G. will then manage a comprehensive list of grading laboratory competencies in order that the trade and consumer can have access to a far greater depth data on which to base informed decisions on the selection of preferred laboratories and the potential basis of the quality of their prepared diamond reports.
The N.A.G. 2015 International Golf tournament T
he next golf match between England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales will be held at the prestigious Formby Golf Resort, Freshfield, near Liverpool, on Sunday 7th and Monday 8th June, 2015. There are currently places in all the teams, so anyone interested in taking part in the competition (which was won last year by England) should contact the event’s organiser, Frank Wood, who points out that it isn’t necessary to be from a particular country, or even have roots there… just a desire to play for them. A captain for the Irish team is also being sought. The event is open to all sectors of the jewellery industry (and guests, depending on numbers) and provides a great opportunity to meet and network with others within the trade. Following a practice round on the Sunday afternoon, the main competition will take place on Monday, with a gala dinner in the evening. The two rounds of golf cost £50 in total and rooms at the Resort are £115 per night for a twin and £105 for a single. The price for the gala dinner is £25. The four-star hotel also has spa, pool and gym, so nongolfing partners are also encouraged to come along. For further details email: golf@braithwaitesjewellers.com or phone: 01904 625274. To book rooms call: 01704 875699 and quote ‘N.A.G. International’.
S N I P P E T S New line-up of Holts Academy ‘Evenings’ Following successful ‘Evening With’ events (Nadja Swarovski last month and Simon Wilson of Butler & Wilson earlier this month) Holts Academy has announced the next two events in the series. On 1st April it will play host to Gem-A-Porter’s founder/blogger Liza Urla and 28th April designer Stephen Webster MBE will take the floor. Both evenings will be held at the Academy on Farringdon Road. Call 020 7405 0197 for more details.
Guest speakers for ‘Make Your Mark’ Theo Fennell will be returning for a second year at The London Assay Office’s ‘Make Your Mark’ event at Goldsmiths’ Hall. The new guest speaker for 2015 is Michael Wainwright, MD of Boodles. The free student event, which includes exhibitors to help students with future careers, will be held over two days – Friday 1th and Saturday 18th April.
Assetsure partners Hatton Garden retailers Two Hatton Garden jewellers, Savvy & Sand and Hirschfield have partnered with specialist insurer Assetsure to launch an engagement ring insurance service to their customers. Key features of the service, which is underwritten at Lloyds of London, are: no excess; worldwide all risks cover including accidental damage, theft and accidental loss; and no requirement for additional security measures, such as specifying locks, alarms or safes.
New line success for Fei Liu The re-launch of the Serenity collection at Jewellery & Watch Birmingham proved successful as six new accounts signed up to stock the brand at the show and the CMJ Spring event. The sterling silver collection brings a simpler and more affordable edge to the Fei Liu brand, with RRPs starting at £90. After a soft launch in 2014, suggestions from stockists were taken on board and the collection was adapted. For example the complete collection is available without stones to appeal those who do not currently work with CZ.
Air Ambulance honours Bremont founders Nick and Giles English, co-founders of British watch manufacturer Bremont, have been named as ambassadors for the Air Ambulance Service. Furthermore Bremont has committed to raising enough funds for The Children’s Air Ambulance (TCAA), one of three services operated by this charity, to pay for a new pilot for a year. Both brothers have reason to be grateful to air ambulances – on separate occasions both have been flown to hospital with major injuries following serious air accidents.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 9
INDUSTRY NEWS
Mondaine T
he independent Swiss watch brand Mondaine, which was founded in 1951 is launching the first Swiss-made smartwatch. The Mondaine Helvetica No.1 Horological Smartwatch prototype will preview at this year’s BaselWorld, with the first watch available to buy in Autumn 2015. At first glance the watch’s dial bears little resemblance to the blinking LED screens of its smartwatch competitors; it just looks like a regular Mondaine Helvetica Bold. The clue lies in the sub dial at six o’clock. This isn’t a small-seconds or an annual calendar, but an analogue representation of the smart technology at the heart of this timepiece. Inside the watch the latest in smart technology includes MotionX® activity tracking, Sleeptracker® sleep monitoring, Sleep cycle alarms, Get-Active alerts and Adaptive Coaching – all the data from which can be backed up and stored in the MotionX cloud. MotionX, manages the bi-directional communication between the watch and whichever device, be it phone or tablet, it is connected to via the downloaded app. In contrast to other smart devices, where the data is shown digitally, the information is read in an analogue fashion via the sub dial.
JewellerY Valuers’ Mediterranean conference planned T
he Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers is to hold the first in a series of annual Mediterranean conferences in Athens, Greece, on 27th-28th June, 2015. The event will include lectures by leading independent lab gemmologists, valuers and synthesis experts, on a broad range of subjects but in particular topics that are “most worrisome and challenging to jewellery valuers, jewellers and gem dealers in recent years”. Some of these will include coloured diamonds, pearls, melee and large synthetic diamonds, and coloured gemstone treatments and values. Speakers are Dr. Thomas Hainschwang (Lichtenstein), Francesca Peretti (Switzerland), Branko Deljanin (Canada), Wolf Kuehn (Canada), Gail Brett Levine (USA), Fazil Ozen (Turkey), Kym Hughes (Australia) and Dr. Joe C.C. Yuan (Taiwan). The conference is organised by Independent Gemological Laboratory (Greece), CGL - Swiss Canadian Gem Lab Inc. (Canada) in cooperation with Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (UK) and National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (USA). All participants are welcome to submit digital papers (gemmology/ jewellery/education/retail related) for the ‘Poster Competition’. The three best posters will be chosen by the organisers by 5th June and these participants will not be charged for displaying posters during the Conference. The best poster presenter will be chosen by conference participants and awarded a free attendance to the Mediterranean and Jewellery Conference 2016 in Spain. For further information and registration: https://gemconference.com/
10 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL JAN/FEB 2015 2015
S N I P P E T S Weston Beamor sponsors award Birmingham-based jewellery casting and 3D printing company Weston Beamor, will once again be sponsoring an Award at ‘New Designers’, the annual exhibition showcasing work of newly graduated designers from the UK’s leading universities. The Weston Beamor Award for ‘The most Innovative use of CAD in Jewellery Design’ will be made during Part 1 of the exhibition, which will take place at the Business Design Centre in Islington, London from 24th - 27th June. The winner will receive a week of work experience with the company and £1,000 in cash.
RJC Certification update The Responsible Jewellery Council has announced 25 new certified members since the beginning of 2015. Among the companies that have met the highest ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards (as established by the RJC) are: Assay Office Birmingham, Corona Jewellery, Continental Jewellery, JC Penney, Zenith and Jaeger-le-Coultre. In January Minera Yanaquila SAC, which produces 20,700 ounces of gold annually, became the first Peruvian RJC member to achieve certification.
Certina partners Citroen The Swiss sportwatch brand Certina has been announced as the official timing partner of the Citroen Total Abu Dhabi World Rally Team. As Official Partner of Citroën Racing, Certina will provide support for the team as well as timepieces for their personnel and drivers Sheikh Khalid Al Qassimi, Kris Meeke and Mads Østberg. The brand’s logo will figure on the cars as well as on the drivers’ racing overalls, further emphasising its long-term commitment to motorsport.
Tateossian baby range unveiled British luxury jewellery and accessories brand Tateossian has launched its first ever collection for babies. Taking their influence from the prime collection, the miniature diamond bracelets include the Pavé Baby and Diamond Baby styles, featuring 99 hand-placed diamonds covering the silver surface and joined together by macramé with braided silk. A silver button closes one style featuring 15 black diamonds, while Luxe Baby has 18ct gold beads on concealed elastic and finished with 12 brilliant cut diamonds.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
Retirement date for Houlden CEO S
tuart Laing, who has been at the helm of the Houlden Group for 40 years, will be stepping down as CEO in June 2017. The appointment of his successor is planned for June 2015, to allow for a comprehensive handover and settling in period. The announcement was made at the buying group’s first meeting of 2015, held last month.
It is expected that the new leader will come from within the Group. Laing founded Houlden in 1975 to make the most of volume buying discounts, using his mother’s maiden name for the business. A few years later he partnered with Peter Lunn and the late Tony Rudell to form the limited company Houlden Jewellers. The Group’s combined retail turnover was in excess of £250m for 2014. Helen Haddow, finance and administrative director, said: “How do you replace Stuart Laing? It is not possible to replicate what Stuart has brought to the group, however his focus, passion for the business and entrepreneurial flair mirror what we see in many of the Houlden businesses. We want to engage and tap into that wealth of talent.”
Azza Fahmy At LFW E
gyptian jewellery brand Azza Fahmy furthered its collaboration with British fashion designer Matthew Williamson with a preview of the new collection at the designer’s runway show during London Fashion Week last month. Designed by Azza Fahmy’s daughter and head of design Amina Ghali, the collection – in a mix of 18ct gold and sterling silver – is inspired by the cosmos and features a fusion of symbolic forms given a contemporary interpretation. Additional drama is provided by the multi-gemstone combinations for the bracelets, earrings and necklaces.
S N I P P E T S Former N.A.G. chairman dies Bill Grant, a retired jeweller and past chairman of the N.A.G. has died following a massive heart attack while coaching a rowing team. The 67-year old father of three fell into the River Wear in Durham City and died shortly after arrival at hospital by air ambulance. Bill, who owned W. Grant of South Shields, was also a representative of the North East Jewellers Association. He was an experienced oarsman and umpire and was the boat warden for the Durham Amateur Rowing Club.
SSEF opens lab in Basel The Swiss Gemmological Institute, one of the world’s most respected gem research, education and grading institutions has inaugurated a state-of-the-art laboratory in Basel, more than doubling the size of its previous facility and enabling a massive expansion of the services it has provided the gemstone, jewellery and watch industries for more than 40 years.
Fine jewellery and watches sale A wide choice of Rolex watches (including 1960 Air King and gold Daytona) and modern diamond watches by Piaget and Parmigiani are among the lots at the forthcoming Dreweatt & Bloomsbury Auctions Sale (Donnington Priory, 26th March). Other lots include an early Victorian garnet and serpent necklace and pieces by Andrew Grima, Bulgari and Tiffany.
Festina partners cycling event Lifestyle watch brand Festina has been announced as the Official timing Partner of the Revolution Series track cycling events, for the final two rounds of the 2014/15 season. The brand has worked with some of the top cycling events in the world, including the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia and Tour of Spain. The next Revolution event is the Jupiter London Nocturne on 6th June.
Re-brand for Assay Office lab
UNOde50 to open London store S
panish jewellery brand Unode50, which exhibited at JWB at the NEC last month, is to open its first UK store at 143 Regent Street. Scheduled to open in April, the 1,250 sq.ft. store follows more than 20 boutiques opened around the world, including Moscow and Tokyo, in 2014. Founded in the late 1990s Unode50 now has over 100 stores worldwide. With a focus on manufacturing unique, high quality pieces in silverplated metal alloy, Unode50 started out by creating only 50 units of each design – a business model which inspired the brand’s name.
12 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL JAN/FEB 2015 2015
Assay Office Birmingham Analytical Laboratory has been re-branded as AnchorCert Analytical, marking its continuing expansion into new sectors alongside its traditional links with the fine and costume jewellery business. While the lab will continue to analyse all precious metals, the scope of services offered has expanded to include, for instance, a quick nickel test. The first step in the launch of AnchorCert Analytical is a brand new website summarising all the services currently available. Users can search by test type or product type, making it easy to find the information required. Online submission forms and downloadable information are all designed to provide a userfriendly site, whether accessed from a PC or mobile device.
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
Unification – last minute questions and Answers
The IRV’s David Wilkins Award
T
T
he vote that will decide the future of the N.A.G. and the BJA is now just weeks away, and, as anticipated, there are a few queries still arising before the big day. CEO Michael Rawlinson answers them here. When will the vote to unify with the BJA be taken? For those who can attend in person, the vote will be taken at the AGM to be held on 16th June. If you are unable to be there, proxy votes will be issued and will have to be returned before the day. Details will be given in the notice of the meeting. Who can vote? Full members of the Association. These are the retail members. How many need to vote in favour for the unification to go ahead? 50.1 per cent of the votes cast need to be in favour of the unification. The more members that positively vote for the unification, however, the stronger the mandate will be. Is it too late to raise questions, or seek clarification on issues that concern me? No, the unification working group is always ready to hear your questions or views, whether for or against the unification. We want everyone to know the benefits of joining with the BJA to create this new association. The N.A.G. had cash and fixed assets. What will happen to these after the unification, and will they get added to the Federation’s reserves? The N.A.G. assets will technically be transferred to the Federation, but they will be accounted for at the new Association level, and will be ring-fenced for the exclusive use and benefit of members of the Association. How quickly will things change if the members agree to the unification? Formal work will start straight away, but in truth it will not be before the beginning of 2016 that the new association will be fully operational, so please be patient as we do our best to get everything in place. The AGM will be held on 16th June 2015 at the Goldsmiths’ Hall, London. A booklet on the unification has been sent out to all members – so look out for it in your post. You can also learn more via our video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58yfVCjcQ48 For details on the AGM or for any further information relating to the unification, please contact me at: michael.rawlinson@jewellers-online.org
Let’s get quizzical
more questions and answers? The Association will be organising a series of regional pub quizzes W ant which will provide a great opportunity for you to create teams from either your shop, shops in your
town or suppliers and retailers mixed. The questions will be a mixture of jewellery specialist rounds mixed with general knowledge, pop and sport – so something for everyone. If you would be interested in helping us run an event in your area, please send an email to: robert@jewellers-online.org
Presentation of Awards – final reminder
T
he N.A.G.’s Presentation of Awards to JET and CAT students will be held at Goldsmiths’ Hall, London on 18th March 2015. For more information email: mandy.kelly@jewellers-online.org See the next issue of The Jeweller for a report on the night, as well as the names of all the successful students.
New member applications To ensure that N.A.G. members are aware of new applications for membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications should email: membership@jewellersonline.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.
14 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Full Member Applications • R.W. Bawden Jewellers, Kingsbridge • Wilbrahams of Chorlton, Manchester • R.T. Jewellery Ltd, Monmouth • Aaron Lyons Goldsmith, Westcliffe-on-Sea • Grace & Co. Jewellery, Leicestershire • Henry D. Johnstone Jewellers, Cheshire • H.E. Phillips Jewellers, Devon
• Silvermine UK, Cheltenham • Geminera Ltd, Weybridge Corporate Associate Applications • David Codling & Associates, Kent • Fable Jewels, Bristol • Connoisseurs UK, Cambridge Personal Associate Applications • Ruth Elizabeth Davis, Edinburgh • Helen Jane Nathan, Surrey
his year the N.A.G.’s Institute of Registered Valuers will be presenting the David Wilkins Award to the 22nd recipient in recognition of their exceptional skill, dedication and service in the field of jewellery appraisal and valuation. We need you to nominate someone who you believe would be a worthy candidate for this prestigious valuation award. The award was first presented in 1994 and comprises an Elizabethan-style silver dish which is inscribed with the winner’s name who retains it for the relevant year. It is complemented by the award of £100 in book tokens for supplementing the winner’s personal reference library. A nomination form can be downloaded from the IRV website (www.jewelleryvaluers.org/davidwilkins-award) or is available from Sandra Page (irv@jewellers-online. org). Completed nominations for the 2015 award must be sent to the N.A.G. Cardiff office by 30th April 2015. This year IRVs will be invited to vote for the list of nominees prior to announcing the winner at the 2015 Loughborough Conference (Saturday 12th to Monday 14th September).
IRV applications
• Julian Cousins PJGemDip DGA BA(Hons) Fine Art Valuations, T. & G. Cousins & Sons Ltd, Canterbury. • Barry E. Dickinson FGA, Blackburn. • Lee-ona Long PJDip PJManDip FGA DGA, Henry Lyall Jwlrs, Ayr. • Michelle S. Knust PJDip PJGemDip FNAG, Alistair Stewart, London, EC1.
Due to the impending retirement of a key member of our sales staff Carrs Silver is seeking to recruit:
AGENTS OR A SALES REPRESENTATIVE
The areas to be covered are Northern England, Scotland and Ireland.
Experience in working with the highest quality jewellers, department stores and gift shops is required.
Knowledge and contacts within this industry would be beneficial.
Please send your CV with covering letter to: careers@carrssilver.co.uk
Carrs of Sheffield (Mfg) Ltd, Troy House Holbrook Avenue, Sheffield, S20 3FH
N.A.G. ROUNDUP
MEMBER of the
MONTH
Established in Reading in 1948, Jacobs the Jewellers is one of Berkshire’s most established family-run businesses. We spoke to third generation keeper of the tradition, Adam Jacobs. Did you always intend to join the family business? Did you go on any courses or have you learnt on the shop floor? There was never any grand plan to join the business, indeed I had two unrelated jobs prior to doing so – three years at M&S head office and then at a boutique marketing consultancy, both in London. Both those gave me skills directly applicable to retail, though I did pass the JET 1 and 2 exams soon after joining to boost my technical skills. I’m always learning on the shop floor; that never stops. What prompted the shop’s move from Buttermarket to King Street? What was the thinking behind the look of the new store? I’d joined in 2003 and after bedding in, we knew the timeline for Jacobs was clearly extending longer than my parents’ stewardship. We took the view that we needed to evolve the shop, more space being the first step – we moved to King Street in 2005. How has the business changed since you took over the running of it? Would your grandfather recognise it? Stock has moved higher in quality without a doubt. Our staff are independently qualified and an enormous amount of time is spent developing them. Our store design remains broadly similar but small incremental improvements occur all the time – cosmetic or otherwise. Our marketing is markedly better – consistency, frequency and
16 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
reach – though this remains a key challenge for the 2015 Jacobs business. I don’t know if Douglas would recognise it, or indeed Reading town centre! What would you say makes you stand out from other jewellers in the area? How far do customers travel to visit you? Some customers travel 30 or 40 miles but our main reach is within 15 to 20. Our stock is a key differentiator, our identity also. The team plays a key role in this and their knowledge, experience, personalities and enjoyment all contribute.
How important is antique jewellery and giftware to your business? Currently not so much, but finding good second-hand product at reasonable prices is tricky. Customers want very high prices for their goods, and we can’t afford the resource to work auctions. Giftware is a small but handy part of the business. Do you travel extensively for stock – which fairs do you attend? We do travel – farther than some, and less than others. In the last few years I’ve visited the three UK shows plus Basel, Inhorgenta and Vicenza. How important is social media to you? Social media is moderately important. It’s fun and seductive time-wise, though commercially doesn’t stack up at the bottom line. It does increase our digital footprint and again allows us to communicate the level of business we are. These are intangible benefits and justify
useful. It’s quite isolating being a one-store enterprise and seeing national statistics, hearing views help broaden my horizons. Some of the tips received have saved us enough money to more than justify the fee. I’d encourage and recommend it highly. And, finally... do you have an amusing customer anecdote that you can share? This past Christmas Eve at 2pm: Customer: I’m looking for something quite specific. I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t believe no one has it. Me: Of course, what might it be? Customer: Well, do you remember the Wham! [note correct use of exclamation mark] song Last Christmas? Me: Yeee-es… (puzzled) Customer: The story of that video was George Michael looking for a brooch – do you have it? Me: Do we have the brooch as seen in Last Christmas, from 30 years ago? (I was tired after a long December and can’t condone the tone of my reply.)
The key benefit to me, even though it costs extra, is the EDF. Networking, sharing best practice, getting advice and information are exceptionally useful. When did you launch the website, when did the e-commerce start and how big a part of the business is online sales? We’ve had a website since 2000; eCommerce began in 2013. As a profit centre? It isn’t! But what it does provide is a clear shop window for internet browsers. Its aim is to get people in the shop, and having a neat and tidy eCommerce presentation communicates the level of business we are.
the internal staff resource required to write, edit and post. How important is education and training to the business? It’s exceptionally important and growing more so as we develop. What are the key benefits of NAG membership to Jacobs? The key benefit to me, even though it costs extra, is the EDF. Networking, sharing best practice, getting advice and information are exceptionally
Customer: Yes, I can’t believe no-one has it, it’s iconic… Me: I’m so sorry but no, we don’t – but we do have an in-house design service and, with a little more than four hours notice, I’m confident we can create just the thing etc, etc… #Sound of door closing #Sound of shopkeeper cursing that he didn’t consider iconic pop videos of the ’80s when purchasing for the season…
Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)
FOCUS ON EDUCATION
Celebrating two Bransom winners… This issue the education department congratulates two outstanding students of the JET 1 course. For November 2014, the Bransom Award was given to Sarah Pawson of Cope Jewellers in Nottingham. “I have worked in retail for many years and thoroughly enjoy interacting with customers and helping them with their purchases,” she told us. “I have always had an interest in jewellery and watches and it’s fantastic to have the opportunity to learn more about these products and to pass it onto customers. I enjoy meeting new people and interacting with customers, and as I have already learnt, this is definitely an industry where you meet a variety of people and you learn more each day!
using this knowledge as I sell jewellery to customers,” she added. “I have found that the more a customer understands about a product the more likely they are to make a purchase. “I feel that JET 1 will make me a more confident, successful sales person and the information I have learnt will aid me throughout my future career. I would definitely recommend it to any sales person, whether they are just starting out or have a few years’ experience. It is an extremely interesting, informative and rewarding course.” Moderator Eddie Stanley added: “There are a number of important points that make Sarah’s final piece of JET 1 assignment course outstanding: her excellent coverage of the GIA diamond grading system; clear and concise coverage of how this vital information is given to a potential client and the reference made to the inclusions in a diamond being nature’s fingerprints or hallmark.
“I had really enjoyed the course, putting in a lot of time and effort, and was pleased when I received good grades in all of my assignments. But when I was told about the award I felt really proud of myself; it proved that my hard work really had paid off!”
“She mentions the use of diamond grading visual aids, followed by practical examples of their use and the large number of different cuts which can be applied to diamonds are included.”
Sarah found herself particularly interested in several aspects of her JET course, but in particular she enjoyed researching diamonds and coloured gemstones. “Although I had some knowledge of them already, the course really enabled me to develop a wider understanding of their various features and benefits. Since completing the course I am finding I am
He was also impressed with Sarah’s “excellent sense of customer care and understanding. This answer is a truly professional piece of JET 1 assignment work, produced by a professional jeweller. She must be an integral part of a successful sales team, one that her employer must be proud of,” he said.
Susan Foster of F Hinds in Leicestershire, is the Bransom Award winner for December.
will make me a better advisor and have the confidence to move on to something higher,” she said. “I would thoroughly recommend the course to anyone as it is interesting and varied. It makes you think and want to know more about the items we handle every day.”
“I have been working in the jewellery business for two years,” she explained, when we caught up with her to discuss her success. “I was not working when I saw a temporary position advertised. Having worked in retail I applied and was lucky to get the position. I was then thrilled to be offered the job permanently. I was shocked to find out I had won the award, but also proud of my achievement – making all the hard work and panics worthwhile. “If I had to pick one aspect of the course that I particularly enjoyed it would be gemstones – there is so much to learn,” she added. “Being new to the jewellery business I found it very interesting. The research was useful as I now have a better understanding of where to look for further information. “With the knowledge I have gained and continue to gain, JET 1 has given me the confidence to pass on information to the customer. In time I hope this
18 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Eddie Stanley was impressed. “Susan’s final piece of JET 1 assignment work included reference to the rock formation that the crystals of a rough diamond are found in – kimberlite. It is unusual for students to choose to start their answers so far back in a diamond’s development. The GIA diamond grading system was mentioned with a clear excellent explanation of each section. “The communication of the information related to the diamond grading terminology to a customer is a very important part of the assignment; it requires a really good professional attitude as well as customer appreciation. Susan demonstrated a high degree of diamond product knowledge,” he added. “The final part of the assignment dealing with the repair or restoration of the diamond ring was covered in an excellent manner. I am sure her employer must be pleased to have Susan on their sales team. “She has demonstrated sound theoretical knowledge related to diamond grading, combined with the personal skills which include selling and excellent communication. A worthy winner of this prestigious award.” We would like to wish Sarah and Susan all the best in their future careers.
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SHOW PREVIEW
Make time for the Big One! BaselWorld, the show that the entire international trade is building up to, is almost nigh. Attempting the virtually impossible, we offer a market-analysing, trend-highlighting, collection-previewing sneak peak of the event.
I
f there are any pre-show jitters in the wake of January’s sudden spike of the Swiss franc against the euro and the dollar, it is not apparent among the exhibitors and retailers we have spoken to. The mood is one of excited anticipation – as is generally the case in the build-up to BaselWorld. The fact that sterling was not affected to the same extent, could, in fact, work in the favour of UK retailers, even if price rises of Swiss watches are an inevitability. “Overall, I think the mood is still positive,” says Neil Duckworth of Veritime. “The initial shock of the Swiss franc situation has subsided. The exchange rate has recovered a little, and people are getting on with things.”
20 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Paul Harry of Peers Hardy agrees. “As always, retailers are looking for something a little bit different, something exciting, to meet customer demand. The economic climate doesn’t appear to be a factor – Ice-Watch was launched in the middle of a recession and has gone on to become a global phenomenon.” As a survey we carried out among N.A.G. members confirmed, Basel is the best opportunity there is for retailers to come across new brands – as well as pick up on the prevailing trends. As one retailer commented: “Basel is the oxygen to revive your thoughts and hopes for the following year and the chance to see new and old suppliers and find new trends.”
Which could, of course, be good news for some of the lesser-known names – particularly in the watch halls. As Duckworth points out: “There are some brands at the top end which were riding quite high and are now finding things difficult; retailers are possibly starting to resist the continuing pressure from them to take more and more stock.
Eterna (see p31)
“Of the newcomers, the Germans are outperforming the rest I would say, like Nomos, Junghans and our very own Meistersinger, which we have had a tremendous start with. And at the top end there’s Lange and Glashutte.”
of our survey respondents cited “new ideas in coloured gem jewellery” as a top priority during their visit. “Obviously Basel is very important for the key watch brands, but ultimately it keeps you up-to-date with trends and fashions,” said another. “I also feel it inspires me to keep my business moving forward.”
Europearls
Sylvain Dolla, president of Hamilton watches, is certainly anticipating a busy show: “We enjoyed a strong global growth in 2014 and we are expecting an exciting 2015. We can already see from our Basel agenda, which is almost fully booked, that this year there is once again a strong interest in Hamilton. We are really confident that our 2015 novelties will get a good feedback during the fair and allow us to reach another year of global growth.” With customers as far-flung as Greater China, India and Europe, Rado president Matthias Breschan is also confident about sales in the UK. “Over the past four years
Buyers might like to keep an eye open for Stephen Webster’s stand. The British jewellery designer is revealing ‘Gold Struck’, a line inspired by the Cheapside Hoard, the world’s largest collection of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery discovered in London over 100 years ago. Bold and colourful gemstones – including tanzanite, ruby, orange sapphire and emeralds – set into rose, yellow and white gold will showcase an array of traditional artisan techniques. Among other British brands showing at Basel is Domino. MD Andrew Morton is also in buoyant mood ahead of the event. “Judging from our excellent sales over the Christmas period and the success we enjoyed at the NEC, we are going to Basel with a feeling of great positivity,” he says. “We will, of course,
“ Basel is the oxygen to revive your thoughts and hopes for the following year and the chance to see new and old suppliers and find new trends.” the UK market has been performing particularly well and we have seen strong growth in the appreciation of our brand and watches by UK consumers,” he says. “BaselWorld is an event that we know our customers from all around the world are keen to attend. It is where new products are launched.” Watch brands might be a major (OK, the major) focus of attention at the show, but BaselWorld is of course the launchpad for new jewellery collections from around the world. At least one
be hoping to grow further our presence in Europe, but we shall also look forward to welcoming many of our British customers
who we see on a regular basis at the show.” Sales and marketing director Andrew Sollitt added: “Our export sales, particularly those in Europe, have increased dramatically in the past 12 months with our retailers seeming to especially value our British-made collections. We are optimistic for further growth in 2015.” For those specifically seeking high-end diamond jewellery, The Diamond Show (which was launched last year) will also be taking place during Basel watch
and jewellery week. Running from 19th to 23rd, the show, which is owned and run by Rapaport Ltd, will be held at Markthalle in Basel – a complimentary shuttle bus will operate between that venue and BaselWorld. Around 70 diamond and diamond jewellery manufacturers from around the world will be showing diverse ranges of natural white and fancy coloured diamonds. Among those specialising in the latter is the online brand Leibish, which will be introducing 15 new fancy colour diamond collections in various styles and colours.
Leibish
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 21
SHOW PREVIEW
Look Book BaselWorld 2015
Just a few of the new collections from watch and jewellery brands at the show
Fope
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Breitling
Bremont
A century ago Breitling created the first independent chronograph pushpiece and to celebrate, the brand is launching a limited series of its Transocean model with an exclusive new calibre and unusual design that reinterprets the 1915 pushpiece. The vintage touch of the large Arabic numerals and batontype hands is reinforced by the historic Breitling signature and steel mesh bracelet.
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Following the success of six models to complement Jaguar’s Special GT E-Type cars, Bremont has further cemented the brands’ relationship with the Basel debut of two new wristwatches. Inspiration for the look comes from the E-Type’s speedometer and rev counter and, while the MKl is an accessible version of the ‘Lightweight’, the MKll, seen here, features hour markings in the style of the numerals on E-Type instruments.
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An industrial theme with graphic influences underscore the look for this strong, masculine collection in stainless steel, 925 silver and leather. The brand will also be introducing several new watch designs.
22 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
The most dapper example of vintage trending, the pocket watch continues to grow in importance for Royal London, with 45 different models on offer. All are available with either quartz or mechanical movements, with two main styles: the hunter-case with a spring-hinged metal cover and the open-faced Lepine – often used as a ladies’ pendant. The half-hunter has a glass panel giving a view of the hands.
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Royal London
Fred Bennett by Gecko
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‘Lovely Daisy’ is one of the new collections being launched by this Italian fine fashion jewellery brand – a reinterpretation of its iconic Novecento mesh. In 18ct yellow, rose or white gold, the pieces can be worn on their own or mixed and matched with other pieces in the line.
Norman Silverman Diamonds
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Rado
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Established in 1983, California-based Norman Silverman Diamonds has made its mark on the market by offering a selection of rare white diamonds as well as fancy yellows, pinks and blues. Starting as an apprentice cutter, Silverman discovered a passion for gems and today each of his platinum or 18ct gold pieces is inspired by the stones. NSD is distributed in the UK by Diamond Designs of London.
The HyperChrome Diamonds collection now offers a new limited edition of 600 models featuring the high-tech shine of plasma ceramic. The new addition has 56 diamonds on the rose gold coloured bezel, providing a glamorous feel when off-set by the grey dial and bracelet.
Graham
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The Geo.Graham Tourbillon has been introduced as a tribute to the father of the chronograph, George Graham. Limited to 100 pieces, the timepiece is distinguished by its extreme thinness and micro-motor movement. In pink gold, it features remarkable elements such as the balance wheel and off-centred oscillating weight, with the movement open to view.
Ti Sento
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More organic stone shapes, light, colour and surface texture, are all key features of the spring/summer 2015 collection. There’s a particular emphasis on sky blues and light green stones set into rhodium-plated sterling silver.
Paul Wild
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While specialising in Paraíba tourmalines from its own mines, Paul Wild began also selling Ethipian opals back in 2012. The play of colours ranges from delicate pastel to strong, luminous neons (as seen in this 463 ct necklace). “Probably its colour is what makes it successful,” presumes CEO Markus Wild: “This opal suits every woman.”
A recent survey on Baselworld sent to N.A.G. members revealed that: • 66% intend to visit BaselWorld • 61% are regular attendees • One third is looking for new suppliers • Just under a third who attend use the event to recce and network • Almost two third of attendees will be looking at jewellery and watches and only 10% are attending to look at watches only
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 23
SHOW PREVIEW
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Jorg Gray
California watchmaker Jorg Gray, renowned for its affordable, luxury wristwatches worn by celebrities, athletes and politicians, will launch four new men’s collections at the show. Included in the line-up are Signature retro models as well as sportier chronographs.
Bering
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The watch group is launching its new stainless steel Chronograph Collection – minimalistic Danish design meets functionality. Available in three styles with white, blue or dark grey dials, the watches (priced between £199 and £229) come with brown or black Italian, calf-leather straps and are fitted with sapphire glass.
Elvis would have been 80 this year and in tribute Hamilton watches has launched the Ventura Elvis, a 2015 interpretation of the Ventura watch worn by The King in the 1961 movie Blue Hawaii. When launched in 1957 it was the first electric watch and this new model still looks to the future with its contemporary, architectural styling and Hamilton’s H-10 automatic movement.
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Domino
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Diamond ring mounts will be the main focus of Domino’s stand at the fair – the collection comprises around 110 designs in a choice of platinum, white, yellow and rose 18 ct gold. The rings can be supplied semi-finished, for customers to set with their own stones, or fully finished with diamond ranging from 10 pt to 7 ct. Trends include textured and detailed shanks and multi-stone designs.
Rotary
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Picking up the trend for vintage styles, the Cambridge model is from Rotary’s new collection of 1970s-inspired quartz watches featuring pinstripe inner dials and cross-hair sub-dials. The company has also delved into its rich archive and reintroduced watch families from the ’60s – remastered with modern technology.
24 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Hermes
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Hamilton
Slim d’Hermes represents the French house’s ‘move towards essentials’, with key attributes being slenderness, lightness and understatement. The rose gold or steel case encircles an opaline silvered dial with mother-ofpearl moon; the movement incorporating hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, moon phases, GMY and day/night indicator.
SHOW PREVIEW
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Guess
Distinctly on trend, the fashion brand is rocking blue as a less formal alternative to black for 2015, especially when teamed with a gold colour for straps and cases. There are two styles (both with his and hers models), one in stainless steel, the other featuring a textured (his) or smooth silicone (hers) strap.
Longines
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The new Conquest Classic Moonphase reflects Longine’s presence in global equestrian events. The refined, mechanical chronograph with its moonphase display, comes in stainless steel or in 18ct rose gold, with alligator strap or steel/rose
H. Moser & Cie
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gold bracelet options.
The independent Swiss watch manufacturer has gone back to basics with a watch that features neither indices nor logo. Without additional functions it simply tells the time. The case of this luxury, vintage piece is 18ct white gold and the dial is a fumé design with a sunburst pattern.
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de Grisogono
A passion for precious stones is expressed through unorthodox creations by Fawaz Gruosi of de Grisogono. Shown here is a rose gold ring set with 45 cabochoncut amethysts together with 440 chocolate diamonds.
Bell & Ross Roberto Coin
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The new Garden Collection brings gold and precious stones together to create rich, bold and highly detailed pieces – each one signed (as always) with a small ruby cast inside the jewel (to be in contact with the wearer’s skin – a good wish gesture from the designer of the eponymous brand).
26 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
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Based on the principle that the essential should never give way to the superfluous, Bell & Ross engineers have designed a practical watch that is perfectly adapted to professional use. The lightweight, ceramic BR 03 Military Type watch has an ultra readable dial (even in the dark).
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Swarovski
Fashion, modernity and a hint of sparkle have been at the core of Swarovski’s Swiss-made timepieces since they were launched in 2009 and the new Alia Day watch continues this mood. The stainless steel bezel is lit-up by 52 pavé crystals, with a white strap adding to the feminine look.
London Pearl
Dreyfuss
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Effectively two watches in one, the Duo Timezone is ideal for the international traveller. It features two dials, one an off-set 60-second dial, the other a second timezone dial with Roman numerals and a date window. Cases available in PVD gold, PVD rose gold and stainless steel.
Extremely fine South Sea pearls will form part of the extensive and comprehensive collection of jewellery being offered by London Pearl. Included in the collection of pieces incorporating diamonds is this 18ct gold pendant, handmade in Italy and set with over six carats of VS1 diamonds.
Highlights from Mintel’s Watch and Jewellery Retailing Report, September 2014 s
Victor Mayer
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From the German fine jewellery brand comes this cocktail ring from the Soirée collection, which is inspired by the spirit of Art Deco. Narrow ring shanks are created using an elaborate production process with flat middle sections and filigree decoration. In 18ct white or rose gold and set with 194 diamonds, kunzite and enamel.
• Gold is making a resurgence driven by a fall in average price and revival of yellow gold look in fashion trends and interest in more traditional styles. The average price of gold has fallen since 2012’s peak of £1,053 per ounce. In 2013 average gold prices were down 14% to £902 per ounce and prices continued to fall, with the average price of gold per ounce at £773 in the year to August 2014. • Mintel’s research shows that women are now more likely than men to own a watch, with ownership of watches among females at 69% compared with 62% for males. Overall, 66% of Britons own a watch. • Smartwatches are set to see future growth as more technology/watch companies enter the market and several new models including Apple’s first smartwatch and the Samsung Gear S with its own 3G connection launched. • Under-35s are the most likely to have bought one or more watches for themselves in the last five years – the trend for fashion watches is driving market growth. The 2013 report showed 25-44s were the most inclined to have bought a watch for themselves. • While silver jewellery is more likely to have been bought as a gift by women, gold tends to be bought by men. • Women are now as likely as men to usually wear a watch, with almost six in 10 men and women who own a watch use their timepiece regularly. In line with this, a quarter of women see their watch as a fashion accessory, while men are more likely than women to see their watch as a status symbol. • Just under a quarter of young people prefer to use other devices such as a smartphone or tablet to tell the time. This highlights that, while they are increasingly buying watches for themselves, they are not interested in them for telling the time and are buying them as a fashion accessory.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 27
SHOW PREVIEW
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Obaku
The name stems from a branch of Zen philosophy, which asks you to live in the moment and also provides the inspiration for the brand’s natural display images. Typical of Danish design, the watches are clean and minimal in design, with the most popular models proving to be the feminine styles. Interestingly, the bestselling watches in the collection are the same in all markets.
Lotus
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The brand – which is part of the Spanish Festina Group – will be launching two new sporty chronograph models as part of the Marc Marquez collection. The watch shown here is a limited edition style and features blue IP plating with steel bracelet and additional rubber strap.
Burberry
The Icon Check collection features two models inspired by the trench coat’s checked lining. This limited edition version for men has a 45mm diamond-like carbon-coated titanium case with a woven, check-shaped skeleton dial and a mechanical movement with manual winding.
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Tudor
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the brand’s longstanding tradition of divers’ watches. While adopting the overall lines of a 1954 model, the watch also carries features from other iconic Tudor designs, such as the Submariners. It comes with two straps – one in fabric, the other in distressed leather.
Georg Jensen
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Watch style trends • Ground-breaking technology • Aviation and motor-racing inspiration • Mesh bracelets • Yellow gold returning • Über-decorative dials • 3-D decoration • Diamond-set bezels
• 50 shades of blue (as well as grey) • Visible movements • Bright colour straps and dials • Novelty-shaped cases • Minimal, pared-back styling • Slim cases • Material mixes • Classic, retro looks
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The classic Henning Koppel watch, launched by Georg Jensen in 1978, has been updated and will make its debut at Basel. Sleek, functional and stylish, the revolutionary dots replacing numbers – in true Danish, minimal style – are still there, while the green alligator strap adds a playful touch.
28 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Carat*
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Showing at Basel for the first time, the created gemstone, fine jewellery brand will launch three new collections: The Heroines (dramatic statement pieces); Nightingales (incorporating intricate, elegant feathered details) and Millennium (clean lines for a new wave in jewellery, including this modern twist on the old school friendship bracelet).
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SHOW PREVIEW
Gecko Elements Gold
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Trend-led and classic ranges, sterling silver and 9ct gold, will be among the six new collections shown by London-based Gecko. Among these Elements Gold will be highlighting feminine, pavé set pieces with an organic feel.
Tag Heuer
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The new Carrera Calibre 18 Chronograph draws its inspiration from the first chronograph specially designed for racing drivers that Jack Heuer made in the 1960s. The vintage look watch is also equipped with a telemetric scale on its inner bezel ring – handy if you want to know how far you are away from a storm.
Maurice Lacroix
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Unashamedly targeting a female audience, while demonstrating its technical prowess, Maurice Lacroix introduces Power of Love, which incorporates its automatic Calibre ML256 movement… but with feeling. Three hearts on the dial (which is, in effect the chassis of the watch) interact and rotate and a separate dial indicates the power reserve with a ruby to denote ‘full’.
GfK, Retail & Technology’s watch market trends for 2014 vs. 2013 • • • • •
Volume was up 1.4% and value up 7.7% Watches under £500 were up 12.0% in value Watches over £500 up only 3.4% in comparison in value Ladies fashion brands under £500 grew at over 20% in value Key price points of growth are: £100-£250, £1,000-£3,000 and £5,000-£10,000 • Internet sales grew at nearly 50% in value, taking market share from the high street, but the high street also grew value sales
Marco Bicego
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The new Fire Island watch is soft and super-lightweight, its straps decorated in 3D with the Versus Versace lion and studs. The dial features the logo spelt out in relief between the indices, emphasising the dial’s depth. The bold colourways include black and fluo yellow with IP gold contrasts, or white and fuchsia with steel details.
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Versus
The Lunaria Collection has been updated with aquamarine gemstones – a fresh new look for the organically-shaped pieces inspired by the seedpods of the lunarai annua flower. The slithers of 18ct gold are moulded into irregular shapes then given an etched texture using Marco Bicego’s signature bullino technique.
Eterna (See image on page 20) The Royal KonTiki Chronograph GMT marks an important milestone for the Swiss brand – its first proprietary chronograph movement. Based on the Eterna 39 calibre, the automatic movement features a flyback stopwatch, a second time zone and a date display. The bezel of this sporty, masculine model comprises five black ceramic arcs, separated by five PVDcoated screws, arranged to depict the Eterna logo.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 31
ETHICAL
Chilled diamonds Belinda Morris speaks to Judith Lockwood and Gary Wroe about Arctic Circle, their new, ethical joint venture.
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t last month’s Jewellery & Watch Birmingham show, you may have spotted visitors sporting a small badge bearing the words ‘it’s cool to care’ and a light bulb icon. No brand name. No logo. All very low-key, subtly ‘feel-good’… and mysterious. For the sharp of mind though the clues were there – the icy white and blue tones and ethical message pointed directly to one company: Arctic Circle. And the little Osram? That represents ‘the light bulb moment” that led Judith Lockwood to recognise the power and potential of fully traceable Canadian diamonds and the role that she could (and should) play in bringing them to market. Certainly her timing was good – Fairtrade had just launched its ‘I Do’ campaign, prompting consumers to think about ethical wedding jewellery and trade awareness of responsible sourcing is certainly growing. Arctic Circle’s presence at the show also represented another development. When Torontobased Martin Ross Group
(which owned the brand) went into administration last year Lockwood, who was European sales director, was determined that the Canadian diamonds should live on. And she knew who could help make that happen. “I knew Gary Wroe of Hockley Mint as a trade colleague and I knew that Hockley Mint has Fairtrade gold, and I have a world-changing diamond,” Lockwood explains. “We had a one-minute conversation and that’s all it took for Gary to agree to a joint venture! Hockley Mint will do all the casting, using Fairtrade gold and the accreditation that goes with it. “Our collection comprises commercial, UK-friendly bridal pieces – but we can do anything that the customer wants.” There are also plans for future collaborations with one or two jewellery designers – which should prove to be a canny, media-savvy move. I predict an award or two on the horizon. For Gary Wroe, partnering with Judith – under the company
A (brief) history of Canadian diamonds In 1991 geologists Charles (Chuck) Fipke and Dr Stewart Blusson expounded their theory that there must be diamond-laden kimberlite pipes in Canada. The industry was sceptical, but exploratory mining revealed diamonds on the shores of Lac de Gras in the Northwest Territories – the site became Ekati, Canada’s first diamond mine. A massive staking rush followed. Arctic Circle uses De Beers’ Snap Lake and Victor Mine, as well as Ekati and Rio Tinto’s Diavik Mine. The territory is also home to large cutting and polishing houses.
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name of You Fine Jewellery – is something of a no-brainer. “I am very excited about bringing the Arctic Circle brand to life in Fairtrade metal,” he says. “Merrell Casting and Hockley Mint are among the pioneers in bringing Fairtrade products to market and collaborating with fully traceable Canadian diamonds is a perfect fit for the company and its ethics. “When Judith first approached me to discuss the concept I was blown away at the proposal and agreed immediately. The Fairtrade element of the business is becoming increasingly important and as the Fairtrade Foundation develops its marketing campaigns we will be offering support where we can.” Arctic Circle’s ethical credentials continue beyond the conflictfree guarantee. Site holder HRA has agreed with the Canadian government to support ‘local benefication’. It’s a broad commitment that encompasses everything from healthcare and education (much-needed in the inhospitable places where most mines are sited; books, for instance, are flown in avoiding a day-long, dangerous drive across frozen lakes) to environmental respect. On one occasion, a mine lost $20m a day while it waited for a swallow’s brood to fly the nest at the site. And it took more than a year for the Diavik Mine to move water and fish from a lake to a new reservoir. Additionally the mines provide work for local people in an area
that has precious little else in the way of industry. The cutting and polishing facilities train and employ workers – who are paid above the minimum wage. “You could say that it’s financially irresponsible to cut in Canada, but this development will ensure a ready workforce for the next 10 to 15 years,” says Lockwood. “They choose to be socially responsible.” Added to this, working with Fairtrade gold ensures that the premium is returned to the miners – Arctic Circle makes no margin on it.
… Hockley Mint has Fairtrade gold, and I have a worldchanging diamond It’s also ticking boxes for retailers. “This new venture is finally offering the whole package – fully traceable diamonds, ethically sourced gold and made in Birmingham,” says John Henn of TA Henn in Wolverhampton. “We’re confident that demand for better credentials will only strengthen in this sector. Arctic Circle will enable us to offer a range in this classical bridal sector that cannot be dominated by those online operators who list stones they don’t own, and don’t even understand the term ‘ethical’.” As Lockwood concludes: “It all comes down to industry for good, diamonds for good and a world-conscious product”.
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AT THE BENCH
Understanding
STONE
Setting In the second of our series looking at the various trades and processes involved in the manufacture of jewellery, we look at the work of the stone-setter. Ed Adams of London-based fine jewellery maker E.W.Adams talks us through the craftsmanship involved.
drill with a huge array of drills and fraises (a form of bit for shaping – from the French for strawberry) for seating the stones. Hand piece with gravers, burnishers, prong pushers, graining tools, milling wheels, bezel rollers – all for pushing metal over the stones. There are pneumatic setting machines to aid setters, but most setting is done without this, by hand alone. How/where/for how long do you train to become one? Most setters today begin their training in colleges like Sir John Cass or Holts Academy. However, some companies such as E.W.Adams will offer apprenticeships with full training. The best way to learn is on the job, under the wing of an experienced setter. It takes approximately one year to learn the real basics but many years to become very highly skilled. Even the very finest setters would probably agree that they are always learning and discovering new techniques! How much does a setter need to know or understand about stones, in order to do his job? A stone setter has to learn much about the various characteristics of diamonds and coloured stones. For example while all diamonds are very hard, some cuts, such as marquise, baguette or princess, are far more susceptible to chipping than rounds. Coloured stones are more complicated due to the enormous difference in their hardness. On average, how many rings could a craftsman set in one day? This totally depends on how many stones and of what type and cut. For example, a princess-cut emerald set into a channel or rub-over setting will take longer than princess-cut diamond. A round diamond in the same setting would be quicker still. A large stone is usually a longer job than a small stone. So, in a day a good setter could set ten single-stone claw-set diamond rings, or three channel-set princess-cut diamond half eternity rings.
What exactly does a stone setter do? A stone setter prepares the mounting (ring, earring, pendant, etc) to be set by seating the base of the diamond or gemstone into the metal to create a secure frame of metal around it, while checking the stone is sitting level and central in its mounting. Next the setter pushes claws, beads of metal or a rim of metal (dependant on the style of setting) over the edge of the stone in order to hold the stone securely in its mounting, while ensuring the metal is smoothly and consistently over the stone. What makes it such a specialist job? Consider the enormous variety of gems, all with different sizes (going down to 0.7 of a millimetre), hardness, different styles of cut, and then the vast array of setting styles (claw, rub-over, channel, suspension, grain, micro-pavé, pavé) in varying metal types. To master all these almost infinite combinations to a high standard (without damaging or breaking the stones) is very special. What makes a really good stone setter? An eye for detail, a constant desire for quality, pride in one’s work, a love of fine jewellery and buckets and buckets of patience. What tools are used? You need a magnified head piece or microscope to see the detail. A ring clamp or shellac (a cement) holds the piece securely. A pendant
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Can a machine replicate the work of a stone-setter? As technology advances there are increasing amounts of machine set rings. Small round diamond set eternity or wedding rings are commonly machine set. However, I think machines will never replace a skilled setter, due to the unique nature of gemstones and their settings. If I’m wrong, then I think we’ll all be out of work! E.W.Adams & Sons, established in 1946, is now in its third generation of family management. As one of the country’s leading manufacturers of the finest quality diamond and gem set jewellery, the company has always been immensely proud of the highly skilled craftsmen employed in their own workshops. Most of the workshop team joined the company from school and have therefore invested many years refining their niche skills.
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BUSINESS SUPPORT: PR
Spreading the word One question that journalists are regularly asked is: “How can I get more publicity for my business?” Belinda Morris speaks to two PRs and a media-savvy retailer, to get a few answers.
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ome who make this enquiry (retailers or suppliers) want to know how their company, their product or even they themselves, might get media coverage; others want advice on choosing a PR, to achieve the same objectives… and as often and prominently as possible. It’s a loaded question and a weighty subject. Having found myself ‘on the other side of the fence’ during my career, I have a little first-hand knowledge of PR, how it works and the tricky business of managing expectations. Clients expect results – often immediately – for their money, but try telling the press that! To shed a little light on the matter here are three potential PR routes: a well-established, specialist agency; a PR employed Fashion journalists and stylists attending a CMJ press day
in-house and a business owner who handles media activity herself. Everyday I see all three approaches executed successfully… and then some less so. There are lessons to be learned here.
Sarah Carpin, director, CMJ Media How do you manage client expectations? The majority of people have unrealistically high expectations, in terms of what PR can be generated and what it can do for them. PR can generate sales – but you’re not going to get 2,000 customers through the doors immediately. We have to explain that it’s a slow process of building brand awareness to get consumer desire for the product; PR and ad campaigns need at least 12 months.
What are the advantages in choosing a larger PR agency, such as yours? With a team, there’s the benefit of different people with different skill sets, such as digital and on-line experience and more heads equal more ideas in brain-storming meetings. Team members are constantly pitching to magazines and our three press days each year attract over 100 journalists, stylists and bloggers. We also find that smaller clients can benefit from the [attention-grabbing] larger clients. We also handle media buying, which can help leverage better PR. Isn’t agency PR a more expensive option? Not necessarily – our costs are flexible with various packages – it depends on the time needed to spend with each client.
It works out about the same as hiring someone in-house. We can also do project-based work, like a shop launch. We can help them ultilise their budget in the right way. For our clients the agency is like a fresh pair of eyes – sometimes owners feel too close to their business. Additionally, our team is trained in diamonds and gemstones – jewellery is our speciality – so we’re good value for money! How can clients help themselves? PR can’t be done in isolation. A shop has to be looking right and be a great place to welcome customers. The website has to look right and of course the product does too. But we can give consultancy advice on these areas as well and it’s true to say that some retailers are not ready for PR. A client has to trust us – a good relationship is built on communications, in both directions.
Karen Amos, in-house PR, Henryka, Hereford Were you employed specifically to handle PR and marketing? When I first came on board at Henryka, the company was barely one year old and so I was originally employed to help in different areas of the business, such as marketing, stock control and even working on the shop floor. As the company grew my role become more defined and now most of my time I dedicate to building the company’s brand and image with growth always in mind. Has Henryka always been pretty pro-active on the PR front? Definitely. Since the company’s formation there was always a strong focus on building Henryka’s brand via constant interactions with customers and press. Anna Emmett (company owner/director) and all the staff are very creative and full of ideas, implementation of which forms part of our daily tasks.
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What form does the PR generally take? PR comes to us quite naturally as we get involved in local projects very frequently. For instance, we run annual projects with jewellery students from the local Hereford College of Arts. We have also started running projects with pupils from primary schools on jewellery design. All the projects are very successful and jewellery produced always becomes popular and a good seller. We also support various local and national charities and organisations, either via basic donations or we design and make jewellery specifically for the selected organisation/charity and part of the profits from its sale is donated. Examples include The Little Princess Trust and the British Beekeepers’ Association. We run various events in the shop throughout the year for
All these activities give us lots to talk about and therefore we always manage to have a presence in local press. Hopefully that will be reflected in the national press at some point in the future. Can you easily quantify the success of a PR campaign? Our constant PR campaign is certainly working. Online sales are constantly growing and we get people travelling from quite far away to visit our shop. What can you do for Henryka that the owners can’t? I’m entirely focused on my role. I believe in the Henryka brand and dedicate my time solely to building its presence on the high street and increasing brand awareness. I think having the time to do this and persistence is the key to success. ‘Time’ is what most small business owners are lacking as they need to run ‘the whole show’.
“ It’s all a bit of a ‘dark art’ and very difficult to correlate sales and social media activity precisely...” our customers, which are very popular; each event attracts at least 100 people. This way we build the relationship with our customers but also it helps us to network with local businesses. We are very active on social media, mainly Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. Daily interaction with customers is very important to us. We often ask for their opinions before we work on new designs – we want to ensure that we make jewellery that people want and love. We’re keen on having our jewellery photographed professionally. But we’re also thinking bigger. We’ve teamed up with local company Austen Films and created our first video! We’ve used local scenery, local models/actors. This is our first film of many – perhaps leading to TV advertising?!
Henryka’s owners say: Karen gives us consistency in the approach to our PR activities. We believe that adhoc campaigns and ‘waffling’ about the jewellery will have little or no effect. Whatever we do, we do because we believe that it will benefit not only us but also the society we live in. Getting involved locally forms part of our business ethos.
Vanessa Burkitt, Catherine Jones Jewellery, Cambridge How important is PR activity for your business? Promoting my business is fundamental. There are millions of messages sent out every day all screaming for your attention, so the question is how to get heard above the cacophony and against the colossal spend of the big brands. Oh, for their marketing budget! We target our
PR in line with our own branding and address specific markets which we have identified as susceptible to our ranges. How much time do you set aside to think about/ implement PR activities/ material? My team (webmaster/online graphics support/ email prep) are all remote so accurate and regular communication is essential. We do this via a weekly Skype conference. I set aside at least three half days a week on developing messages/image commissions/ research. We work to a schematic calendar of activities and the team allocates the appropriate time within a time and cash budget. Does your PR largely take the form of social media activity or do you also communicate directly with the press (local and/or national)? We communicate directly with our clients, are active on Facebook and blogs and communicate through all channels as appropriate. We communicate new initiatives to the trade, local and national press. Our competition to create a 50th anniversary gold pendant with students of the Goldsmiths’ Centre was widely covered by the local and industry media; as the first stockist in Europe of 3thirty3 watches, with a charity donation embedded in the wholesale price and in support of the International Anti-Poaching Foundation, we received excellent coverage in local and industry press. We, and our partner in California, were particularly thrilled that the project was picked up in the international press with coverage in Plaza Watch magazine, which is distributed in 39 countries
Press coverage for CMJ clients
worldwide. We pushed this through to our website blog: http://catherinejones.com/ cjblog/2015/02/3thirty3-animalwatch-featured-in-internationalplaza-watch-magazine/ How successful would you say you are with PR? Can you quantify success? Customers increasingly consume messages through social media. It’s all a bit of a ‘dark art’ and very difficult to correlate sales and social media activity precisely but that’s probably no different from the days of old-school print advertising/PR. We have seen an uplift in sales but maybe that’s just because we’re pretty good at what we do, we’ve been around for a long time and we know how to speak to our customers. In your opinion, is it an unnecessary expense for an independent retailer (with, say, one or two outlets) to employ someone purely to handle PR? I don’t see why PR is a less necessary expense for an independent retailer than it is for a national or multi-channel outlet. How it is staffed and what the spend on PR/marketing is, is a very personal decision.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 37
ELECTRONIC POINT OF SALE
Terms & Conditions apply >>>> Technology is fanning the flames of a renaissance where smart jewellery retailers can take the entire shopping experience to a whole new level. But the devil is in the detail, says Richard Cohen.
T
he strong link between the physical value of experience and the simplicity of click and buy is the key. Jewellers are particularly well placed to enjoy the benefits of the technological age. Omni channel retail promises the riches of customer satisfaction while feeding the insatiable modern day thirst for information. Thanks to technology there are now more ways then ever to engage with your clients and satisfy their desires. Choosing the right system for your company is fundamental to doing smarter business.
>> Data input >>
>> The potential >>
Below is an example of a potential structure for just one of the many groups that your products need.
A good system will provide a central hub for almost every part of your business – seamlessly linking front of house with engine room and all the while managing the data flowing through both. Welcome to a world of eye-catching modules. These neat little packages will process, store and present data relating to different parts of your business, from stock control to marketing. These modules will then break down and store the micro detail contained within each area. They’re packed with handy tools to navigate the information and busting with an array of customised reports. Best of all they will connect with each other and allow the data to converge and flow effortlessly.
Once your structure is in place you can begin to populate your system with all the information you can imagine, including quantities, detailed costs and purchase details. You can also upload images of each stock item. Consider the sheer volume of information needing to be entered.
Capable of tracking your sales in every way possible, they’ll help you to buy more of the things that your clients love. They’ll simplify your ability to engage with your audience and present a unified brand, delivered through a choice of social media, websites and retail theatre – efficient and effective communication to help you increase your profitability. In the future these systems may even tell you that existing and potential clients are nearby, what they’re looking for and then give you direct and real time access to them. The opportunities are boundless. It’s a retail jeweller’s depiction of heaven. But you may need an army of data-crunching, tech-savvy minions to help you get your new system up and running.
Now open it out further and repeat for every other sector – like pendants, earrings, bracelets, bangles, watches and repairs.
>> Planning >>
You’ll then need to transfer across your supplier details and client database – assuming it’s all in a compatible format. If not, you’ll need more minions. You’ll also be able to add specific details for every client – like key event reminders and notes on conversations, finger sizes, connections and relations between clients. If investing in ticket labels you will also need to set up label templates for each group to ensure you print information relevant to each item of stock.
First, understand how you want the system to organise and absorb your data, then set it up so it’s ready to receive. Simultaneously check that the different templates have been set up correctly and uploaded: receipts, valuations, wish-list and other relevant e-stationary. This should start way before the system is installed and involves communication between you and the software company. I suggest you track and organise this communication for easy reference in case of future disputes.
38 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
ELECTRONIC POINT OF SALE
>> Contracts >> With the passion for what we do one could easily assume that all companies that surround our industry have the same ideology. Remain vigilant for opportunistic predators that feed more on invoices raised then the value received in return by the client. Guard against lengthy contracts that may lean towards the protection of the software supplier and consider clear and fair exit clauses when signing sales contracts with long expiry dates. As always with legal matters, the devil is in the detail.
>> The costs >> Software. In addition to the main software system you’ll be offered modules. Each one is an additional cost to the main software – the direct cost and the added training and set-up costs. Training. Be realistic about the time needed to set up the system and train staff to use it effectively. Do you prefer to train off-site or on-site? In some instances expenses may work out more than the cost of the training day.
Licenses. How many people will be able to access the system? Will they need to access it at the same time? Annual service charge. Monitor closely on each renewal. Hardware. Do you need additional hardware, like a ticket printer or bar code scanner. Has it been included in the quote? Project management. If you’re paying for the software company to run the project for you, what exactly does this include? When placing the final order, always ensure that the invoice reflects the detail on the final system quotation.
>> Conclusion >> A system is like an iceberg. The promises we see on the surface are only a small part of the reality involved in setting it up properly. Like choosing a good jeweller, insist on a company that will take the time to understand what it is that you want and then have the integrity and the experience to deliver what it is that you really need.
EPos update >>>> News and views from four key suppliers of jeweller-specific EPoS systems.
Clarity & Success Why and how to take the plunge Today we all accept automation. Even those selling coffee or pastries use an EPoS system. But some in the jewellery industry have been reluctant to join the IT revolution, holding out as long as possible. But with so much competition on the High Street and on-line, most retail jewellers now recognise they need to be on board with a modern system – but how to choose one? And what should they consider?
First point – staff don’t need a degree in IT to use an EPoS system. Modern touchscreen systems are intuitive and aesthetically pleasant, making it feel less daunting. All good EPoS providers will offer full training and it’s worth considering your most confident staff to attend training in order to gain the maximum from this time. Clarity & Success, says MD Karen Russell, prides itself on its ‘hold hands’ approach after live date and its phones are answered immediately (in a friendly and patient manner!) Clarity & Success EPoS system
Not only will a good EPoS system allow you to automate the sales process, this in turn allows a clean stock holding, clearing non-movers and giving a more frequent re-ordering of best sellers. Cash flow is key and the financial rewards are soon apparent.
“Whatever the questions, it’s clear that the future must include some form of stock management system and we have 20 years’ experience with almost 5,000 customers in over 41 countries and are endorsed and partnered by some of the world’s best known and successful jewellery brands.”
Client management and marketing is another key area. Who are your customers and what are they buying? How do you retain them when they can buy from so many varied outlets? How do you target customers who buy specific products for a promotional event?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
“All these elements are standard in Clarity & Success and we continually accept suggestions and wishes from our customers to include in our updates which are not additionally chargeable,” explains Russell. But the best option is to talk to fellow retailers. They will give you a no-agenda testimonial and their experiences, and possibly mistakes, will help you to decide.
40 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Those looking to change systems need not worry they will have to face starting again. Most systems can export to Excel, thus, stock, suppliers and clients can be easily migrated into a new system.
Magpie Future-proofing customers Magpie’s record of product innovation and customer-centric approach was rewarded when it won the 2014 BJA Supplier of the Year category – the only EPoS supplier to have received the accolade since the Awards’ inception. Now, in keeping with modern technology trends and with an eye to the future, the company has released its new Ethos EPoS solution for Android. Unlike web-based versions of software run in client windows, the native Android and iOS apps deliver superior speed and ease of use, and offer greater integration with peripheral devices.
il ta 4 Re 01 he s 2 f T ard ro w ne A in m W ste Sy
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ELECTRONIC POINT OF SALE
progress is available for review or reconciliation. Unexpected variations can be queried or dealt with immediately. MD Chris Garland also stresses the importance of keeping in touch with customers: “We believe in giving our clients proactive tools for their business, and customer marketing has never been more important to increase footfall into shops. Clients now consume vast amounts of information through smartphones, and this is a perfect way to build loyalty and engage with purchasers.”
The Magpie team collecting their BJA Award
The down side of web and browser-based software, says Magpie, is that there is always a slight delay before the browser refreshes; much the same as browsing any website. When you are in a hurry to get things done, this can become annoying and impact on productivity. With native apps, the software can respond to user input instantaneously and it is possible to deliver a faster and richer user interface to the end user.
Clients now consume vast amounts of information through smartphones, and this is a perfect way to build loyalty and engage with purchasers.”
mobile websites rising from 80 per cent in 2013 to 86 per cent in 2014. “We are particularly pleased to announce the launch of our native Android software, which we believe to be a first in the industry,” says Caren Colabella of Magpie. “Android devices are proliferating at an unprecedented rate in various form factors. We anticipate that specifically EPoS units will increasingly adopt Android as the operating system of choice – replacing more costly and bulky Windows devices. This will essentially ‘future proof’ our customers and allow them to benefit from more compact and lower cost Android devices. We will continue to equally support Windows, Apple MAC or iOS, leaving the final choice of operating system to our customers.” >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
An easy way to understand this, is to compare the difference in experience between the Facebook app on your mobile device and trying to browse your Facebook website in a mobile browser. The move from webbased mobile software to apps continued to accelerate in 2014, with the percentage of apps to
42 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Bransom Specialist help when needed Bransom, the supplier of the bsmart2 business management system has recently achieved Silver Competency status in Application Development as a Microsoft Partner, allowing it to access new technologies and better develop its products to
serve its customers. This can be seen in the new web-based stock-taking system which offers management a real-time view of all stock data across several sites, even down to multiple zones within a shop being checked simultaneously. Using a range of capture devices from a till with attached scanner to smartphones and tablets, stocktakers can now instantly enter count data to cloud servers where a centralised view of
The CRM marketing package in bsmart2 is based around a comprehensive customer database – the retailer can opt clients into marketing programmes and send email or text promotions or reminders using the till or back-office as entry systems. Customer history can be analysed to profile best clients or identify those who haven’t purchased recently, while congratulations messages could be sent for birthday etc. Electronic receipts sent directly by email allow customers to store transactions for easy reference in the future. Loyalty and gift card extensions are a
Bransom’s new web-based stocktaking system
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ELECTRONIC POINT OF SALE
simple way of developing closer bonds and generating additional revenue. Cards are also a way of saving up for more expensive purchases – another way of building all-important loyalty. Core to Bransom’s philosophy is support, from installation and training to the helpdesk and ongoing support, which is available seven days a week during and outside core retail hours. “We can diagnose a system live while talking to the client, and can usually solve any queries or problems within minutes, keeping any down-time to an absolute minimum,” explains Garland. “It’s all about confidence in your supplier. When you’re investing a large amount of money in an EPoS system you want it to help you manage your business. That means having confidence that it works the way you expect it to, is easy for staff to use, performs ‘in the background’ and frees up your staff to concentrate on better serving your customers. You also want to know that help is there when you need it, and that you’re working with a specialist who knows how your business runs and has the technical capabilities and depth to support it and keep it current.” >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Pursuit Software Second-hand jewellery’s click-and-collect potential There’s a growing interest in website promotion of secondhand watches and jewellery to stimulate customer shop visits. Faced with the internet’s growing share of consumer spending, retailers are searching for ways to attract footfall to justify their bricks and mortar assets. In that context, introducing a dedicated second-hand items website and using this to attract click-tobricks custom could prove an attractive proposition. Mike Burns, Pursuit’s MD, explains: “Having looked at the idea to
44 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
see how technology can help, and from talking to jewellers who have expressed interest, a fundamental consideration is the single-items stock aspect. Because second-hand stock inevitably consists of only one example of each item, it is vital to have a website management mechanism that automatically prevents two people going after the same piece – otherwise you’d be running an auction.
Time is of the essence when promoting second-hand watches
“Whether interest is from an online customer or whether the item is sold in the shop, it needs to come off the website immediately – and the shop’s EPoS and stock records simultaneously updated. If the item remained on the website and a second person attempted to purchase, as well as a disappointed potential customer, there is an obvious reputational risk. This especially applies where expensive items are sought-after by collectors. “It becomes clear that all-round efficiency can only be achieved by live, seamless multi-way linkage between online activity and the shop’s EPoS, stock records and back-office system.” Burns continues: “Given the nature of second-hand watches and jewellery, to inhibit returns and encourage web-initiated shop visits, alternatives to direct online purchase are advisable.
customer visits the shop and buys. As a safeguard to avoid the problems of a customer failing to keep the appointment, a set-aside time limit could be included in the terms and conditions. “An expensive piece might involve the potential purchaser travelling a considerable distance, calling for red carpet treatment. This too
“ It becomes clear that all-round efficiency can only be achieved by live, seamless multi-way linkage between online activity and the shop’s EPoS, stock records and back-office system.” Inviting customers to pre-order linked to an appointment and with the item set aside and paid for on collection is an option – but probably too open-ended. “It would be preferable if the piece was secured by inputting card details, but the transaction only put through when the
will benefit from having a system with website administration fully integrated with sales and stock records – and incorporating in-shop EPoS screen prompts and customer details.” With the Pursuit system, website functions, counter-top and iPadbased EPoS, stock records and
customer information functions all cross-communicate. And uniquely in the jewellery sector, everything is automatically updated in real time – not hours after the event.” A Pursuit system can be set up so that items come off the website automatically, as and when appropriate. Balancing that, images and details of new pieces can be uploaded in moments from the back-office, without involving a web services provider. “Each system function can be configured to suit an individual retailer’s specific requirements. In a second-hand context for example, on the day, a customer’s appointment could be automatically flagged on EPoS screens, alerting staff members and presenting item and customer details. This contributes to giving the right impression – in turn enhancing the chances of capturing a repeat customer.”
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EDF Oxford Congress
Wednesday 10th June 2015
“Engage your customers by engaging your staff” Confirmed Speakers
Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel
Andrew Stephenson, HR Director at DFS “The link between employee engagement, customer engagement, performance and profitability” Andrew is a results focused HR professional with significant experience in organisational development, change programmes and performance management. He will be sharing his experiences with particular reference to the transformation of DFS into a UK Award winning employer. Mark Saxby, Owner of Status Social “10 social networks that can transform your business and make you money” Mark a former award-winning BBC journalist, started one of the UK’s first specialist social media agencies four years ago. Since then he and his team have carried out social media training with more than 1,200 business people, helping them increase profits. Christine Colbert, Managing Director at InHouse (part of House Creative Agency) “Identifying what’s unique about your brand and bringing it to life” In House develops clear and distinctive brand positioning’s and creative solutions for the jewellery and watch industries that set those brands apart from the crowd. Christine will be sharing how they helped identify Kings Hill’s unique difference based upon their uniquely personal service and translate it into a stylish rebrand.
Still not sure about attending? Here’s what some of last year’s delegates had to say about Congress 2014 “Excellent day and I would thoroughly recommend attending to all retailers” “It was a brilliant networking opportunity across the Industry” “Great Venue, Great Networking”
Jeff Caplan, Managing Director at Storecheckers
“A great day full of interesting and thought provoking subjects – well planned and enjoyable”.
“How to make your staff passionate ambassadors for your brand”
“A good, solid, valuable day out”.
The shop floor team are a jeweller’s most valuable asset. Storecheckers brings 25 year’s experience of working with flagship retailers and NAG members. Jeff will share some of the secrets of successfully creating store staff into passionate ambassadors and sales people for ‘their’ business.
“I learned a lot in a very short space of time, great venue, speakers and content; I’ve got a lot of work to do when I get back to the office!”
To book your place at the 2015 EDF Oxford Congress contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or amandaw@jewellers-online.org “The Executive Development Forum provides a unique opportunity for Independent Jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with likeminded professionals, in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships that enable them to: benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses; develop their strategic thinking; invest in their own professional development; and ultimately grow their business.”
THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS
GEMSTONES
Romancing the
stone – SAPPHIRES – Continuing our series on gems Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG, a gemmology and diamond tutor at Gem-A, reveals some of the salient features of sapphires. So what is sapphire? Following on from the last article where we looked at ruby, we now turn our attention to sapphire. Sapphire and ruby are basically the same stone, corundum, which, as we saw, is comprised of aluminium and oxygen. The difference with sapphire though is that it is coloured by a range of chemical elements. Pure sapphire is totally colourless, but the colour most people think of when we say sapphire is blue – caused by interaction between iron and titanium atoms within the structure. Sapphire, though, is far more than just a blue stone. It can be found in virtually any colour, usually termed ‘fancy’ in the trade. Greens, yellows, purples, almost any colour is possible, and in some cases even colour-change effects can be found. One colour that is highly sought after is the padparadscha sapphire. Translating from Sanskrit as meaning ‘lotus-coloured’, this variety has a pinkish-red to orange-red colour, and can also be referred to as having the ‘aura of the sunset’. A little useful mythology Sapphire is one of the ‘big four’ gemstones for the trade. The more usual blue sapphires have long been thought to be a symbol of truth and nobility, and have often been found in Royal Regalia – most recently in the engagement ring given by Prince William to Kate (previously Princess Diana’s ring). Sapphires were also thought to have the power to protect the wearer from harm, possibly connected to their high degree of hardness which, as with ruby, is nine on the Mohs scale.
How to identify a sapphire The first thing to remember is colour. No, not just one, but a range, as sapphire can be any colour and can show any degree of transparency. You might not think this important, but combined with its very high degree of hardness, these colours show a bright vitreous lustre, with little Sapphire and diamond ring by Tivon Fine Jewellery damage likely (mainly localised). As with the red variety of corundum (ruby), sapphires have a high refractive index, 1.76 to 1.78, values that any gemmologist will know well, and this is a key test in their identification. Inclusions can also help, with some showing faint to distinct angular colour zoning. When present, this will follow a hexagonal pattern, which can also help differentiate natural corundums from their lab-grown synthetic counterparts. Of course, in the finest quality stones, this zoning may not be present, nor may the needle inclusions that can cause silk and asterism (a six-rayed-star effect seen in some cabochon-cut stones). A notable example of this is the Star of India, a large, high-quality blue sapphire, weighing just over 563 ct, and showing a star both on the top and on the base – unusual both for the double asterism and the carat weight. Finding sapphires Sapphires can be found all over the world, from Australia to Scotland. Famous and historical deposits include Sri Lanka, Thailand, and the most well-known, Kashmir. Kashmir sapphires possess a rich, blue colour, accompanied by an almost velvety look. True Kashmirs are no longer mined on a commercial basis, and since 1969 very few true Kashmirs have been bought to market, but if you’re lucky, and a lab can place the origin, you may just be privileged to see one. Closer to home, Scottish sapphires are found only in one location, protected as a site of Special Scientific Interest, so technically these could be as rare as true Kashmirs… Most sapphires, whatever the source, undergo heat treatment, which can improve the colour, or create/remove any silkiness present. This is a centuries-old practice, still carried out today. Most colours can also be synthesised, so it’s important to keep up to date with detection methods… but as long as they’re sold as what they are, all have a place in jewellery, and all have enduring beauty.
Sapphire ‘Emotion’ rings by Fabergé
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 47
BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
SaferGems – update –
Lee Henderson of SaferGems reports on a particularly busy start to the year for the joint N.A.G./TH March initiative to tackle crime against our sector.
premises, has now turned its attention to jewellery stores, using blocks of concrete stolen from building sites to smash through the front doors of the stores. Again, watches are proving to be the most sought after items. SaferGems members have been suitably advised with regard to this new development and have been asked to consider the strength and suitability of their security. It is possible that this spike in offences across London may be as a result of recently released gang members who have previously served sentences for London jewellery store robberies and smash and grab raids.
W
• During 2014 we recorded 193 thefts with approximately £1.7 million worth of goods stolen. This is compared to 195 thefts in 2013 where £3 million worth of goods were stolen. This equates to a minor decrease in the number of offences but a 43 per cent drop in the value of goods stolen.
• It seems that the major hot-spot areas for armed robberies at the present time are the north east and north west regions of the UK, with 11 to date this year. We can also report that criminals from Greater Manchester continue to be linked to the majority of robberies across these two regions. As a result of this continued threat, a number of stores across the north have upgraded their security measures and some of these have employed security guards.
• Previously the biggest problem that our members encountered involved the distraction/sleight of hand thefts being committed, on the whole by Eastern European crime groups. However, we have seen a significant reduction in Eastern European theft activity. During 2014 we recorded only 19 thefts that were committed by persons of Eastern European origin. This is compared to 59 during 2013, which represents a 67 per cent decrease. This may have been as a result of a number of successful arrests, disruption and prosecution of suspects by police, but it may also be thanks to the vigilance of our members who are now extremely aware of the threat these groups pose.
e are just two months into 2015 and already there have been 80 crimes and suspicious incidents reported by both the police and industry. We have already seen 26 robberies across the UK with approximately £2.6 million worth of goods stolen, £1.8 million of that figure being high value watches. This is compared to 14 robberies during the same time period in 2014 where we saw approximately £1.5 million worth of goods stolen. This equates to an 85 per cent increase in offences.
• A Halifax jewellers has been the target of two armed robberies already this year with approximately £650,000 of Rolex watches stolen. • Between September and December previous hot-spot area London saw a reduction in offences. However over the Christmas period we regularly received intelligence from the Metropolitan Police that a smash and grab raid was going to occur. And so it transpired. On Tuesday 6th January 2015 a high value smash and grab moped raid/ robbery took place at a high-end jewellery store in central London. • Since the start of 2015 we have recorded eight robberies across the Metropolitan Police force area with approximately £200,000 of goods – mainly watches – stolen. The majority of previous London robberies/smash and grabs were attributed to moped-riding gangs originating from the Islington area; however, new intelligence received from the Metropolitan Police states that a new gang of moped/scooter raiders have emerged from South London. This gang, which was previously targeting bureau de change type
48 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
• The majority of recorded thefts are now ‘snatch and run’ offences committed by local criminals or cross border offenders. During January and February 2015 we have seen ‘snatches and attempted snatches’ in Cheshire, Merseyside and Scotland – all committed by men with Liverpool accents. • The SaferGems stolen watch register is now ‘live’ and we are receiving a steady number of enquiries from both jewellers and pawnbrokers. Any jeweller or pawnbroker wishing to check the provenance of a second-hand watch can do so free of charge by contacting the SaferGems Watch Register team on 0845 389 0740 or by email at watchregister@safergems.org.uk So how can we sum up the jewellery crime situation? The start of the year certainly shows an increase in crime, but we can also report that since 2010, crime across the board has gone down and the reporting of suspicious incident is up – so hopefully we are doing something right! Visit www.safergems.org.uk for more information.
REGULAR
Flying the Flag Belinda Morris speaks to Dan Dower of Dower & Hall about his quarter century in the business and why Britishmade means so much.
W
hile the UK certainly has its fair share of emerging, talented jewellery designer makers today, there are a handful of British businesses that go back two decades or more and are stronger now than ever. One of those that has successfully ridden out various financial storms and negotiated the vagaries of consumer desire, is Dower & Hall. A regular at trade shows and rarely off the fashion media radar, it consistently captures the trend zeitgeist – while staying true to its core product values: well-crafted, good taste, emotionally relevant and accessibly pitched and priced. This year Dower & Hall turns 25 – Dan Dower and Diane Hall, partners in business and marriage, graduated from Middlesex University in 1987. It was a boom time in creativity, when British fashion was riding high and fashion jewellery was as playfully adventurous as clothes by their contemporaries, like Body Map. “It was like sculpture that could be worn,” says Dower, who was brought up in a creative household and had busied
50 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
himself with making small, figurative objects “as soon as I could pick things up”. The design duo began by producing pieces in materials like pewter and perspex, as the cost of silver in the late ’80s was still quite high. “But then we came out with well-made, fashionable, substantial silver pieces,” he explains, “and Gerald Ratner did us a favour with his c**p speech!” Dower & Hall also benefitted from the newly established Prince’s Trust with its mentoring, grant-giving and loans. “We definitely needed that support – and £2,000 of our £5,000 loan went on a fax machine!” Dower says. “Our partnership started in a recession and we worked our way through it.”
like a painting. We work as a team when looking at colours for stones – we couldn’t do it if we were a male-dominated business! “In our early days, fashion was about Vogue – it wasn’t for all. Now it’s relevant to everyone’s lives; they buy, support and enjoy it and not just the wealthy are patrons.” The brand’s most successful precious ring is a statement piece from the Dotty collection – an early classic that has since been re-invented in the triple-row diamond ring – which is bought by women for themselves. The popular look continues in 2015 with the new 9ct gold and coloured stone collection.
A three-year search for a large workshop space to house the burgeoning businesses ended, also in 2007, when they found their Clapham HQ – a large, rabbit-warren-like muse house of interconnected rooms and staircases. “Being ‘Made in Britain’ is very important to us, which is why we needed somewhere big enough to accommodate all our different departments – the wholesale team can communicate with the workshop and the workshop can see how the work is being promoted,” he explains.
The company has always taken advantage of international interest in ‘different’ British design. “Early on, through trade shows, we started to sell to Japan, America, Italy and Germany – which sort of mirrors our web market now,” explains Dower. “We then exhibited at Basel in the mid ’90s, which was a turning point for us – we realised that for the same investment we could have our own shop, and that’s when our retail expansion began.” The Holborn workshop was swapped for a small retail premises in Knightsbridge’s Beauchamp Place (“Diana’s
“It’s about colour – [women] know what ‘their’ colours are and what jewellery they need to go with an outfit. For Dower & Hall the early ’90s also saw the start of ‘selfgifting’. “Women had always bought costume jewellery for themselves and then they moved into precious jewellery via silver,” explains Dan. “It’s about colour – they know what ‘their’ colours are and what jewellery they need to go with an outfit. And we’ve always done a lot of colour, whether through stoneset or beading – ranges of tones rather than flat colour, almost
in Prince’s Square, Glasgow, and 2007 saw a second shop in London’s fashionable Spitalfields.
street”, as American tourists called it – the princess’ favourite restaurant is down the road”). With a workshop upstairs and down, it seemed ideal. “We could do retail and bespoke – which we had always wanted to do – and it was a great address,” says Dower. However the size and layout of the building also proved to be a security headache, so Knightsbridge, while otherwise successful, was abandoned and in 2004 they opened a store
“We don’t have the space to manufacture every component, so we outsource to other British workshops for chain, for instance, or some stone-setting. Doing trade shows brings you out of your niche; you see how others do things,” he adds. “Through one show I met a craftsman with a workshop in Brighton who can do more traditional styles. Our stones are largely bought in Thailand and India – they have the best raw materials and culture – so inspiring for design ideas. We use recycled gold as much as possible; ever since Ratner, jewellery has been about disclosure, honesty and the best materials…”
REGULAR
Where to go, what to see and… Trade Fairs March 19th – 26th: BaselWorld, Basel, Switzerland Arguably the most important event of the year for watch buyers, but also showcasing new jewellery collections and loose gems. See p20 for a show preview. http://www.baselworld.com
May 4th – 6th: CIBJO Annual Congress, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil The first time that the Congress has been held in a Latin American country. An opportunity to learn more about Brazil’s gemstones and vibrant jewellery industries. www.congress2015.cibjo.org 6th – 10th: Jewelry Shanghai, China Over 1,000 booths at this major Chinese trade fair, showcasing gemstones, jades, pearls, diamonds and finished fine jewellery. www.chinajewelryshow.com 29th – 1st June: JCK Las Vegas, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA Gem and jewellery show including sections covering bridal, trendsetting designers, diamond dealers, loose gemstones, fashion jewellery and the upper-end Luxury and Elite Enclave areas. lasvegas.jckonline.com
BaselWorld: Breitling Transocean Chronograph
19th – 23rd: The Diamond Show, Basel, Switzerland This show is dedicated exclusively to diamonds and diamond jewellery, with 70 companies showing. About a 10 minute drive from Messe Basel. www.thediamondshow.net 22nd – 25th: Jewellery & Gem Fair, Freiburg, Germany Over 400 exhibitors showing jewellery and related products, diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, tools, equipment and services. www.jgf-europe.com April 20th – 22nd: China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shenzhen, China Exhibitors from China and around the world, offering jewellery, diamonds, coloured stones and pearls. http://exhibitions. jewellerynetasia.com/szj/
52 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Sales & Exhibitions March 14th – 2nd August, 2015: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, V&A, London Celebrating the extraordinary creative talent of one of Britain’s most innovative designers. Sponsored by Swarovski (with whom McQueen frequently collaborated) it spans a career from 1992 graduation to his unfinished 2010 collection. www.vam.ac.uk V&A: Alexander McQueen
N.A.G. events and courses March 18th: N.A.G.’s Presentation of Education Awards, Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2 Successful JET1 and JET2 students will receive their certificates and awards at this glittering evening for invited guests. Email: mandy.kelly@jewellers-online.org 25th/26th: Diamonds and Diamond Grading, London Eric Emms presents a two-day course to give retailers and staff the knowledge and confidence to sell more diamond jewellery.
27th – 26th July, 2015: Gold, The Queen’s Gallery, Holyrood House, Edinburgh, Scotland This exhibition explores the qualities that makes gold an enduring expression of the highest status, both earthly and divine. The myriad uses are shown, including artefacts and jewellery. www.royalcollection.org.uk April 25th – 26th July: The Enchanting Jewels of Elizabeth Gage, New Britain Museum of American Art, New Britain, Connecticut, USA Celebrating 50 years of the work of British jewellery designer Elizabeth Gage and showcasing around 250 pieces of fine jewellery, all handpicked by the designer herself. Starting from the gemstone, artifact or fossil, Gage’s work is inspired by influences from architecture to animals. www.nbmaa.org June 18th – 28th: Olympia International Art & Antiques Fair, Olympia, London W14 A later date for this major event showcasing a wide choice of high quality, vetted arts and antiques, including jewellery. Dealers include Moira Fine Jewellery, Sue Brown and John Joseph. www.olympia-art-antiques.com
April 23rd: Developing Selling Skills, Birmingham A one-day course aimed to hone the skills of experienced staff and reinforce confidence of new members, including managing customer interaction, helping decision-making and acting on buying signals. For further details and to register your interest in any course, contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org June 10th: EDF Congress, 10th June, Oxford. 16th: N.A.G. Annual General Meeting, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London For details please contact the N.A.G.: events@jewellers-online.org
Olympia International Art & Antiques Fair: Sue Brown brooch-pendant
what to read! The Worldwide History of Beads by Lois Sherr Dubin (£29.95, Thames & Hudson) This follow-up to the author’s 1987 The History of Beads, covers 40,000 years of bead history, tracing the evolution of beads from Neolithic times through the Mesopotamian, Phoenician, Greek, Roman and Byzantine civilisations to Venetian, Bohemian, Art Nouveau and eventually contemporary bead craftsmanship. Particularly fascinating is the eight-page gatefold timeline that offers a useful visual guide to the global history of beads – over 2,000 specimens are shown in their chronological and geographical contexts. Over 35 museums and numerous individuals cooperated in this five-year labour of love, which Dubin hopes will stimulate further discussion and feedback from readers around the world. Certainly what this book demonstrates is the enormity of this field and also how such an ancient method of adornment has been revived in recent years, with new technology and materials being introduced. In fact, as the author points out in her introduction, beads throughout the ages have been far more than mere adornment. They also expressed social circumstances, political history and religious beliefs. As well as being treasured for their curative powers or used as a fee for passage to the afterlife, beads were also the medium of exchange in barter – glass beads for beaver pelts, for spices and for gold, ivory and slaves. This comprehensive and fascinating book is far more than simply a visual history. And Pandora isn’t mentioned once.
Maison Goossens by Patrick Mauries (£40, Thames & Hudson) The origins of costume jewellery (for all those who imagined it to be a 20th century phenomenon) date back to the reign of Louis XlV, whose courtiers wanted to emulate their fashionable king, but couldn’t afford to deck themselves in precious stones. So says the foreword to this sumptuous book about Robert Goossens, a Parisian goldsmith and jeweller; it sets the tone for a subject that has all the opulence and grandeur that we associate with the ‘real thing’. Goossens was one of the most prestigious names in haute couture jewellery, working primarily with Coco Chanel in the 1950s, but other fashion houses, such as Saint Laurent, Balmain, Balenciaga and Schiaparelli, were also clients. In the early days costume jewellery imitated the real thing, but Goossens created genuinely new forms, using new materials. His pieces for Chanel translated her passion for rugged, Byzantian baroque styles and ancient art and he collaborated with her until her death in 1971. The beautiful images here also include the creations by Goossens’ son Patrick, who re-worked many old styles for Dior, Alexander McQueen and Louis Vuitton among others.
ADT150011_EN_London_AD_R3.indd 2
2/24/15 53 4:51 PM THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY
BM U ES M I NBEESRS BSEUNP EP FOI T R ST : I N S U R A N C E
Avoiding the big insurance
Wipeout! Planning your first holiday for 2015? TH March offers some advice on avoiding the most common travel insurance mistakes.
Y
ou hope it won’t happen to you but in reality delays, lost luggage, accidents, illness and theft are some of the most common travel-related mishaps that befall thousands of people each year. Careful planning and research ahead of your trip is the best plan and while checking the terms and conditions is tedious, it’s a necessary evil if you are to enjoy your holiday with complete peace of mind. Don’t be tempted by the cheapest cover available Because the cheapest travel insurance policies generally offer fairly superficial levels of cover. Very low-cost policies often involve high excesses should you need to make a claim. Countless travellers are caught out by this one and have to resort to paying direct for nonemergency treatments abroad (because it works out less expensive than the excess). We may love a bargain, but think twice before you decide to buy cheap travel insurance.
Own up to pre-existing medical conditions Allergies, occasional eczema, asthma? Tell your insurer! It is important to declare any pre-existing medical condition – major or minor. Failure to do so can void your policy leaving you high and dry when you need help most. Bear in mind also that if you do make a claim, insurance providers have the right to request access to your medical files – so clearly it’s best to be upfront from the start. Research very carefully if buying online With the bewildering array of online options available you should research your options carefully. The devil is always going to be in the detail. Check the clauses for loss and theft Think about what you take away with you: camera, mobile phone, jewellery… The theft or accidental loss of an expensive item on holiday would be bad enough, but worse if you try to make a claim which is subsequently rejected. Insurers are often quite specific about what conditions must be met to gain cover for precious items. To begin with you may need to provide proof of ownership. In the case of jewellery, you may need to provide a valuation certificate. If loss or theft does occur you’ll probably be expected to report it to the local police, hotel management, etc., and have proof that you have done so, perhaps by obtaining a crime number or incident log number. Clauses can commonly include having to store insured items in a locked hotel safe or being able to prove that you have taken all reasonable care to protect your belongings in some other way
54 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
(a safe in a locked apartment). With single items be sure to check the level of cover as policy limits vary. ‘Extreme’ activities may not be automatically covered so check! Before you hook up to the bungee cord, hop on a quad bike or try a spot of hang-gliding, check your insurance policy. Such pursuits are unlikely to be covered on a standard travel insurance policy. If you find you’re not covered, it is essential to pay for any extra cover you need before you take part. Buying travel insurance in a flight ‘package’ It can seem like a quick and easy option to buy travel insurance while booking flights online but it probably won’t save you money, in fact you could ultimately pay a lot more. Once again the message is: do your research or let your insurance broker advise you. EHIC – travel insurance also required! Some EU travellers believe that the EHIC card is enough protection, but if you don’t have a valid card, some insurers won’t pay for medical treatment. Check the terms on your policy. It is important to have both an EHIC (if travelling within the EU) and travel insurance; the use of an EHIC to reduce the cost of your treatment means that some insurers will waive your excess, but please remember that EHICs have an expiry date, so check yours before you go away. The EHIC is free of charge. But be aware, unofficial websites may charge if you apply for it through them. For more information visit: www.nhs.uk/nhsengland/Healthcareabroad Worldwide travel is commonplace yet travel insurance is still one of the most underappreciated forms of insurance cover available. Yet it’s vital. If you’re injured or taken ill while overseas, the costs involved in medical care, air ambulance and repatriation, or overseas personal liability can be substantial. Travel insurance is very easily misunderstood – partly because policies can vary considerably when it comes to offering extra add-on benefits. Finally, a word of warning about exclusion of cover for injuries and treatment costs sustained as a consequence of alcohol. This is a common exclusion and many are regularly caught out by it. So enjoy the cocktail on the beach, but don’t be tempted to water-ski immediately afterwards. Take the time to think carefully about what you need your travel insurance to do for you and if you’re not sure about any aspect of cover, speak to an expert you can trust. Because you’re worth it!
LETTER TO THE EDITOR
Overwhelmingly positive…? Mike McGraw writes to The Jeweller offering his concerns regarding the plans for the N.A.G. / BJA unification.
S
ome readers will know me as having worked in and around the jewellery sector for almost a decade until the end of 2013. Mainly involved with the N.A.G. through creating the Executive Development Forum and being a prime mover in constructing the Institute of Registered Valuers, I came to respect the sector from both the retailers’ and suppliers’ perspectives. Over the past 18 months I have watched the move towards bringing the N.A.G. and BJA together from a purely disinterested and strategic perspective. The interpretation of research in the recent edition of The Jeweller, on the survey of 2,600 N.A.G./BJA members has to be questioned. An assertion that “the fact that over 10 per cent of the two associations’ joint membership filled in an on-line questionnaire at the end of 2014, is testimony to the fact that jewellers clearly take their trade associations seriously and care about their future” needs scrutiny. Accepting that ‘over 10 per cent’ is probably nearer 11 per cent, then 286 businesses is probably a statistically valid number upon which many conclusions have been drawn. It could however indicate a totally different view of 2,314 members who did not respond; or even a significant level of apathy. Take the analysis further, and accepting that the pie chart representing the results to the question “Do you think the proposed unification will result in a positive outcome for the industry?” indicates approximately 75 per cent of respondents think it will, then only 214 businesses give unification a thumbs up! Again taking the second pie chart which shows around 47 to 48 per cent of the joint membership is in retail, then only approximately 100 retail businesses out of the full associations’ membership thought unification was positive. Less than four per cent of the total joint membership. FEATU
RE
UNIFI
SURVEYCATION RESULTS
Michael Rawlinson , chief executive of the N.A.G gratified ., is that the survey highlighte d the relev ance of training: “The N.A.G . has a long history of (both N.A providing .G. and our mem with spec be savin BJA Memb bers ialist jewe gs to be ers) llery made in education economie terms of which supp s of scale should be to be profe orts them , for both organisat fighting, ssional and ions n Indep not each other. The knowledge takes place when the merger ende relationsh able, and bricks and nt retailer – . Increased helps them ip between retailers to run bette mortar membersh and their n Indep r ip numbers suppliers ende confirm, should, as businesses and more profitable it is noto provide may also bricks and nt retailer – riously hard retailers all . I am delig additional amo and onlin mortar businesses successful jewellery our inves hted that to get peop buying pow from servi e tment in membersh ng its more varie le to respo will tell er n surveys. ce this area d Manufactu you, be close ip. nd to and co-o Associatio So the fact us to offer providers to allow A top prior of the rer perative; trade, who Suppliers to the n’s n Desig that over per cent even bette ity for the there is lesalers nothing valued and work is so highl ner/maker 10 of the two unifie r newl deals and to y makers were n Supp d associatio ybe I look forw designer .” associatio 2,600-stro lier to the ‘us and them gained from an ensuring n will be ard to n’s ng, joint He is “abso provide trade n Supp we main represente also well to membersh ’ mentality the right filled in an lutely delig lier tain d. of of our mix ip servic .” provision on-line ques overwhel and bene the trade of services hted by es to in the futur quality mingly posit the Raine fits to its the end of tionnaire surance, (packaging, ine,” he said. membersh at 2014, is testim response” and to this ive r also dism marketing Most of ip n Othe fact that received , etc.) isses what end the ony to the the com sees as some When asked r jewe to the surve questionn He belie set out to panies surve were, as ves all of to rate the responden he aire trade asso llers clearly take y. establish yed one wou erroneous the two the ques their services ciations what peop raised will see as being ld expect, associatio relatively tions beliefs abou ts’ seriously Finally, the very much le be the most ns currently smal business provide and t ‘dodgy’ care abou overwhel which shou fully addressed reasons important on a prac cent of N.A.G l. Just over 50 per to belong ming t their futur majority ld provide all be emb tices. “We should to five, with scale from noug of peop . responder to a e. to all thos associatio reassuran ht their diffe employe le surveyed racing more five repre s they want Together e with conc n. The surve trade ce busin d just 1-5 rent agen good value said senting ethical ed to be the two a range of ess prac erns. y presented people, das ethic this was , and bodies kept the tices and on s represent while options of their the top perfo informed future deve the case has rece was ‘Indu the BJA including respective businesses rmer ‘Setting for nearly ntly publ members, stry Infor per cent and Main merger prog lopments as the of the jewe at all level 70 ished its mation’ of respo with one very solid taining Indu s llery supp Guide Stan resse at ndin or two a people on dards’, ‘Educ members. s, with 80 g BJA 3.64. ‘Prom stry cent optin from desig ly chain, That said both sides per oting your Business’, ation & Train g to rece ner make ‘Lobbying’ n “I wou there believing were also ‘Education seemingly ive emai rs through ing’, upda multiple and that tes. ld respo ‘Netw ’ l ‘Lega and the expe A small but retai members to nses rece orking’. l Helpline’ trade asso within both trade infor ct that [the new ived significan per cent in between, lers and everythin also perfo ciation have of their well amo organisat associati of peop mation with g rmed however n “I feel ng all mem from com le said they t 22 integrity ions on] will greater would like responses – a full pictu than provide it only adds panie bers. were com when the further invo wider re of the to the othe those belonging 251 and more s employing more cred a member bined – the merg and away UK mark lvement Having r. ibilit far er people. and et…” the large in proc y to I would n “With ess and their my busin the positiv st number feedback replies (at welc ess to be so many of will least a third e backing businesses ome it…” Rawlinson Arguably online, it as the proc be actively soug received ) were from so and their the most , counters would be ht from inde ess cont clients now important some of many these conc question members good to pendent inues. was more retailers, for thos operating erns: “Alth see a trade both brick aware of at e charged natural to ough it is bringing associati the impo s and mort online enga While the and onlin with the unific of the pro this stage think supp on that rtance of ar e. It was response gement…” ation to n “The liers and retailers was: ‘Do social med not a surpr ces received tremendo figure – fruition future is have oppo you ia, and was ising the N.A.G usly posit encourage s is a real online busin sing objective unification think the proposed . primarily ive there on gene were, as represents ess so we s, in the ment… will resul rating awar one migh retailers end I belie need expe t in a posit the role outcome t expect, enes and the asso disse also num ve s of rt Mich ciati of nting for ive advice a few the trade our pres BJA on must ael Raw bers voices, who ence is to ensu associatio answer was the industry?’ The do more linson, N.A. should have asked ‘Can on-line and a fair percentage when re the trade to advertise , and the new n a resoundin G. CEO of you iden a list of more alter n “It smoothly with just can oper its webs g ‘Yes’ tify any its mem reasons is useful native four per ate ite whic and incre bers and why the to h cent of thos ase the demand who respo their stren two asso to help and know people are should not from cons ciatio e nded sayin gths… at ns proc advis ” When the the end umers to eed with and wear e should g ‘No’. confident of a phon plans to responses own their jewellery the need unify?’ coul e that it combined were . In this regar arise… I feel n “We there is d indeed come up , far and a united need a large is there” d, more The thorn with some away the popular and align n “[I r and loud objective y issue of most service, grounds non-merg ed would like . I don’t Membersh Subscript which was for er. the most to see] accre er voice to the see any for incre ions was ip also of gems need Governme popular ases in costs also dited lists and here and prec among nt…” individual of ethical n “[We , and we actually a very cred tackled ious meta The main groups of see will need supp ls…” itabl cent some ] liers stum a e 84 per responder was ‘Busi of respo joined up saving very bling bloc quickly. facing the ness Cred the twel s, approach In time ks for trade asso ndents saw their ve peop ibility’, at jewe to all aspe over 80 n “[I of the costs , we will review le who voice ciation as just per cent their unea cts of issue would like] llery industry…” all offering either ‘goo . The abilit of d se were use the trade s n Yes look to ratio the business and d’ or ‘fair’ y to the poss to member more opportuni of increased associatio ibility value for mon nalise what ty for netw dealing and was the membersh ey. n “Train so that we we do, orking and second most n logo due to highe ip n Don’t services… ing sessi can deliv member know reason for ” r overhead costs popular ons nort er n “If the same that the h of the small busin the com s; the fact membersh more for At prese two asso border wou bined grou n No over 60 esses are ip fee, rathe than cut ciatio per cent would be ld be good p at close nt the N.A.G. represent forgotten costs and r . ‘Financial is based a disaster… people on ns !” about [the on Servi to the City our servi n “Reta Savings ces’ also ” sides oppo ces.” unifi of London ilers, value sing of a com cation] the BJA in scored highl N.A.G. mem mercial equa and rs and man The BJA’s Birmingha y. same goals bers saw ufacturer CEO Simo tion; m’s Jewe Quarter, …” and Train ‘Education s n llery n do and agree Rainer, not share “As a smal so the ques ing’ as being s: “There ‘Do you the l business will undo tion: important more have a prefe owner I ubtedly and hope than their am cons rence for the offic this wou BJA counterpa cious of e location?’ ld not exclu rts (60 per was pose de me beca rising costs cent to just over 30 …the ind d. per cent use of incre ustry mu The answ ) while BJA Rainer also ases…” members er was split. st learn preferred feels very to work responden Half of the the ideas that the ‘Access to strongly more clo ts ‘don’t two of Industry THE JEWE care’ or to Jewellers’ know’ while together sely Sales Data LLER JAN/ on ‘opposing associations are and ‘Finan ‘don’t Social Resp 26 per cent not ’ FEB 2015 cial Savin and sides whic for me ’ as one gs on Servi onsibility opted London responden h tackles and 24 per ces’. this very t put it. should col mbers BJA This is has Birmingha cent for point. “As both and N.A.G m. been writt . have been the all types en to promo laborate for some of jewellery to guide saying years, the te and sell – retailers, companie industry learn to s manufactu must work more more jew designers rers, closely together ellery. and ever and mem Simon Rain yone else as to how bers collabora – er, BJA CEO they te to prom should ethical fram can provide a more ote and more jewe ework for sell llery company luxury good . It is the other , not simp their s industrie ly in how source and s we they produce products also in how but they treat their staff
A recent survey of the mem positive bers resp the findings onse to the prop hip of the N.A.G. and osed unifi in some cation of the BJA has prov detail. ided an over the two associat whelmin ions. Her e we pres gly s any polls ent ter will
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mbers’ co
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Do you unificatithink the propo outcomeon will result insed for the ind a po ustry? sitive
THE VOIC E
56 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
So will bringing the N.A.G. and BJA together as the NAJ make an alliance between jewellery manufacturers and retailers closer and more meaningful? Very unlikely as the proposition currently stands! If the demand and supply sides jointly view the consumer as the primary and joint focus of attention then the sector thrives. So when, for example, Pandora and Rolex ‘encourage’ a more joined-up approach to getting their product sold more widely and in greater amounts, some retailers squeal; but watch the money roll in. If the brand then demands too much, or squeezes too hard, as we’ve witnessed, then the retailer does react and usually a sensible compromise enables both parties to continue to make money. That is a sometimes uncomfortable but adult relationship. Getting the supplier and seller together, to understand and provide what consumers will react positively to, is sensible, rational and profitable. So will bringing the N.A.G. and BJA together as the NAJ make an alliance between jewellery manufacturers and retailers closer and more meaningful? Very unlikely as the proposition currently stands.
siness Ty pe
Soundin
The feature on the Unification Survey Results which appeared in the last issue of The Jeweller
The comment that “…the industry must learn to work more closely together and members should collaborate to promote and sell more jewellery” is a painfully obvious sound bite. But the supply chain in the jewellery sector is, and has always been, substantially disjointed. In consumer goods’ sectors whenever the supplier thinks the seller is the opponent and the seller believes the supplier to be the enemy, discord prevails and the customer inevitably suffers.
Jewellery Bu
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38
For significant decisions on two key associations’ future to be taken on this level of data lends itself to being questioned. There may very well be valid reasons for an amalgamation of the groups, but it certainly doesn’t lay solely in the figures.
OF THE INDU STRY
Why? Because it doesn’t fully bridge the gap between supplier and retailer. The argument could be that through its evolution the NAJ will forge alliances and partnerships with the significant brands, suppliers and service providers. It may very well embark on what would be a long and arduous journey and in doing so face other challenges. I hope it does and wish it well if that is one of its key objectives. In the same issue of The Jeweller as the survey conclusions is an advert for The Company of Master Jewellers. This organisation has carefully enhanced and improved its offering over the last decade to the point where it has a comparable network of retailers to the proposed NAJ, an increasing range of member services and, crucially, relationships with key brands and manufacturers. Sounds attractive?
39
Mike J McGraw
Michael Rawlinson responds The CEO of the N.A.G., offers this response on behalf of the Association’s chairman Andrew Hinds and the Unification Working Party.
M
ike McGraw has worked with the Association for over 10 years and so knows us very well. He has the best interests of our members at heart by raising these points and many are valid and well-made. It is interesting that he is only the second person to actually put pen to paper, so we are either not getting through to our members or, as I suspect, they are happy with the direction we are moving in and trust our judgement.
“If the demand side and supply side jointly view the consumer as the primary and joint focus of attention then the sector thrives”. As Mike says, we need to work together because when we are opponents discord prevails and we all suffer. The new NAJ has the potential to get everyone pulling in the same direction. We shouldn’t be frightened to call on the big guns of the industry to get behind good initiatives and we need to think big and bold. For too long the vision of each association has by definition been too parochial.
Normally I would expect a two-to-four per cent response rate to a survey or questionnaire that is not conducted face to face. To receive over 10 per cent I judge to be a good response. We know from the responses we did receive that members rank the value they get from their Association in many different ways. I believe that if there were serious concerns from members they would not be renewing their membership as quickly as they are at present. Regarding affirmation of the proposed unification, less than five per cent of respondents said no. On the same basis as Mike’s calculations, the retailers in that number equate to about 0.3 per cent of the combined membership. Fifteen times as many said yes. Knowing our members, I honestly believe that if they had strong objections or worries they would tell us loud and clear. Through our research and preparation we have come to see that the supply chain is varied and market structure is changing. Few retailers just buy in and sell on. They employ goldsmiths working at a bench in the shop or back room, or they buy loose stones and have items of jewellery made up to customers’ special requirements. Brands and other suppliers can now sell direct to the consumer, or process sales through a central website, passing commission back to the local retailer. It is true that all parts of the commercial supply chain will want to strike the best deal, but isn’t it true that you should aim to make this a win-win deal? From a trade association perspective I think we need to step above the short term and look at the bigger picture. How do we raise and maintain standards of professionalism, integrity and trust in the industry? How do we inspire consumers to buy jewellery as a gift or item of luxury to own and treasure?
The new NAJ has the potential to get everyone pulling in the same direction. We shouldn’t be frightened to call on the big guns of the industry to get behind good initiatives and we need to think big and bold. One sentence in Mike’s letter will have struck a chord with all the members of the working party as it could have been taken directly from our vision:
Michael Rawlinson addressing the N.A.G.’s 2014 AGM on the subject of the unification of the two trade associations
Regarding the CMJ, I agree that the directors and management of this buying group have made transformational progress over the past decade. However, we should not get carried away thinking a buying group is a trade association, or a trade association a buying group. Their objectives are very different. The buying group provides a point of difference for its members. This means that, while they can work closely together due to a shared supplier base and not competing directly with each other, they also need to impose limitations on who can join and members need to ‘fit’ both geographically and in terms of profile. On the other hand, the trade association should always seek to be inclusive of any business that meets the criteria for membership, so within the industry it has unlimited potential for members. Our hope is to work with all industry stakeholders, including buying groups, other specialist trade associations or membership groups, and service providers. We want to be at the very heart of the industry, providing leadership and vision, so that together we build the very best jewellery sector possible. Look back in a couple of years and call us all to account Mike?
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 57
MEMBER BENEFITS
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travelling on business? Emerald Corporate can offer you a one stop solution guaranteed to save you time and money.
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58 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
deal can be a minefield. You may well source what you think is a great offer, but have you thought about what might happen if you want to make a last minute change or if things go wrong especially – when you are abroad in unfamiliar terrain?
A TMC can alleviate such worries by providing you with sound advice on your flight and ground arrangements based upon a clear brief. A good TMC will have access to all the leading airlines, hotel groups and car rental companies and will therefore be
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A good TMC will be in a far stronger position to provide you with special offers, tailored to your budget, date and class of travel. Emerald Corporate is the ideal solution for professionals who travel regularly. Time is money – perhaps these days more than ever before – and Emerald Corporate can save you both, as well as delivering a smooth and efficient service that will make arrangements for visiting the big international trade shows, such as BaselWorld or JCK in Las Vegas, so much more of a pleasure than a chore. To find out more about how Emerald can help with your travel arrangements please visit: www.emeraldcorporate.co.uk
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EDF 2014 retail turnover exceeds £38 million! Since 2005 members have been sharing monthly performance data with each other on a confidential basis (names and locations are excluded), which enables them to accurately benchmark with other retail jewellers how well they may or may not be doing. The current membership reflects retail jewellery businesses of all shapes and sizes: • 17 per cent of the businesses have annual sales under £0.5m and 20 per cent have sales over £1.5m • Average store sales were higher in 2014 than 2013, in 10 separate months • Average sale prices were up 7.8 per cent • Product margins were down 0.9 per cent • 9 per cent of retail sales were generated by earrings, 11 per cent by watches • The average stock turn of the EDF is 0.8x a year • EDF sales increased by 6.4 per cent Last year 52 per cent of the members increased their sales, 18 per cent held sales and 30 per cent saw a sales decline. Tellingly, members who were in the EDF as far back as 2012 saw their combined 2014 sales increase by 14.1 per cent on 2013. Performance data is an important component of managing any business, and the shared experience and expertise of the EDF members is an increasingly valuable resource for jewellery retailers facing decisions on growth, sourcing, branding, staffing and pricing in 2015.
If you would like any further information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer on 020 7613 4445, email her at amanda.white@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122.
SHOW REVIEW
a good show. And this is backed up by i2i Events which has announced that a record number of companies have already booked their stand for 2016.
Mark Milton
“This was a really good show for Domino with a number of key collections, especially our new wedding ring offer, selling well,” sales director Andrew Sollitt explained. “Our customers were definitely appreciative of the many new designs across all our ranges and were on the lookout for innovative, fresh, ideas to sell to their customers this Spring”. Its Starla collection – in 18ct white or yellow gold – includes eight diamond rings, a wedding ring, two pendants and a pair of earrings all of which create the illusion of featuring larger diamonds than they actually do.
Positive vibes from the aisles Jewellery & Watch Birmingham, the CMJ Spring Trade Event and Rock Vault at London Fashion Week – Belinda Morris reports on news and trends from the first three shows in her 2015 diary.
I
’ve attended my fair share of trade shows (fashion and jewellery) over the past… ahem… decades and I have yet to hear the words: “Blimey it was heaving in the aisles; you could hardly move for buyers!” It’s almost obligatory for exhibitors to mutter about dwindling footfall; it was ever thus. And last month’s Jewellery & Watch Birmingham show proved no exception to this unwritten rule.
Fair organisers are not given to admitting that visitor figures are down on the previous year… and we don’t expect them to. In any case, as it happens, my own, unscientific poll of exhibitors during and post the event, indicates that despite the quietseeming aisles, business was brisk, orders were taken and we’re all going to live to fight another day (week/month/year – depending on who you ask). It was, for most,
Goldmajor, which celebrated its 30th anniversary at JWB, is another returnee. CEO Bob Rontaler, commented: “We’ve exhibited since 1977 and made so many friends over the last 30 years; this industry has a real sense of longevity. Doing shows such as Jewellery & Watch Birmingham gives us a diverse cross-section of customers from within the retail market, which is great.” Ken Brown, UK area manager for Nomination, commented: “Jewellery & Watch Birmingham 2015 was one of the most successful shows that we have attended in terms of the fantastic response we have had from our existing customers and new ones. We believe the investment into
Clogau
the larger stand at the show has and will truly pay off in the months to come.” In particular, the brand’s ‘Rose Gold Composable’ collection launched at the show, received “a fantastic response”.
“ Doing shows such as Jewellery & Watch Birmingham gives us a diverse crosssection of customers from within the retail market, which is great.” Clogau, which is currently celebrating its 25th anniversary, used both the JWB show and the encouragingly buzzing CMJ event to introduce its bespoke engagement ring creator ‘Clogau Compose’ following last August’s soft launch. In fact JWB was the Welsh brand’s most successful trade fair to date, with recordbreaking sales and six new accounts opened. The CMJ story was equally encouraging – the brand’s sales with the group
Argentium
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 61
SHOW REVIEW
to the spotlight. Whether 18ct or plated/vermeil, yellow and rose gold appeared in numerous collections at this show, then later at the CMJ’s event and at Rock Vault at London Fashion Week. The general fashion trend for gold as a colour was clearly helped by the drop in the price of gold – even if it has crept up a little since. A feel for 1970s and ’80s-style (auction house Bonhams backs-up this comeback) jewellery clearly calls for gold, as was seen at Mark Milton where
process for fusing Argentium with gold (as seen in the two-colour wedding rings). The interest in gold was also reflected in Dower & Hall’s new 9ct Fireworks and Eternal collections. It’s the first time that the brand has worked with 9ct gold and marks a growing customer demand for a line that offers the luxury of diamonds and gemstones plus gold – at an affordable price – bridging the gap between the 18ct gold and silver ranges.
Walking the aisles and speaking to designers, suppliers and visitors, threw up the general sense that gold is making a welcome return to the spotlight. The general fashion trend for gold as a colour was clearly helped by the drop in the price of gold – even if it has crept up a little since.
Ornella Iannuzzi
being up 36 per cent year-on-year and 2015’s event being the most successful yet. With a show of the size and diversity of JWB, a consensus on style trends is never likely to be unanimous. From silver brands and watches to bridal jewellery and new design talent, there was something for everyone. However, walking the aisles and speaking to designers, suppliers and visitors, threw up the general sense that gold is making a welcome return
Dower & Hall
62 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
Tomasz Donocik
there was an emphasis on bigger, bolder 9ct gold and vermeil pieces – especially long chain pendants, textured rope chains, bangles and large earrings. At Allied Gold the feel for the shiny yellow stuff was emphasised by the new Colours I Am trade-marked brand, which features the use of mixed premium metals – Argentium with 18ct gold for chunky bracelets for instance. The collection also includes the new patented
Highlighting a feel for gold (rose in particular) and a trend for structural, geometric forms for jewellery, is Tresor Paris’ new Additions collection of plated stainless steel cuffs, pendants and earrings. Underscoring the luxe-glamour feel of the Jennifer Lopez Collection for Endless Jewelry are the yellow and rose gold charms adorning the subtly shimmering leather bracelets.
Tresor Paris
Meanwhile, representing the watch market, which has seen growing interest in rose gold, Danish brand Obaku – which launched its pared-back, stylishly minimal line to the UK market during the CMJ event, points out that its number one best-selling watch worldwide is a yellow gold model with mesh strap. Meanwhile jewellery designer makers showing at London Fashion Week (including Rock Vault’s fine jewellery rising stars) were also rocking the gold trend… in their own contemporary and individual styles of course. Renowned for her passion for opals, Ornella Iannuzzi offered a scaled-down, more everyday take on her bespoke ‘Les Exceptionnelles’ collection with the ‘Rock It’ line in gold with white, black, yellow and champagne diamonds. High octane glamour – with an edge – was provided by Tomasz Donocik’s ‘Electric Night’, sky scraper-inspired collection of 18ct rose gold cocktail rings, earring cuffs, drops and necklaces featuring rows of baguette-cut stones such as tanzanite, blue sapphire, iolite, blue topaz, emeralds and white diamonds. Subtle glamour with a darker side was provided by Jacqueline Cullen’s gorgeous jet pieces embellished with black diamonds, while Imogen Belfield’s ‘Jurassic’ collection had a raw, organic feel with black and white diamonds, emeralds and rubies set at quirky angles in the sculptural pieces.
FEATURE
Brand Profile
SIF JAKOBS
Cool Nordic aesthetics and Italian passion come together in this Danish fashion jewellery brand. Could the rush of Scandi TV dramas (think The Killing, The Bridge, Borgen, Wallander, The Legacy…) mean we’re all just a little bit in love with northern European design right now? Well, they may have something to do with it, but in fact we Brits have long admired Scandinavian aesthetics and Denmark in particular has given us a wealth of design talent, especially in the fashion and jewellery arena. So it’s probably no surprise that one of the more recent arrivals from across the North Sea is enjoying blossoming
success after a relatively short introduction to the UK market. Actually, although Sif Jakobs is a Danish brand, the eponymous designer is in fact Icelandic, studied in Sweden and then left a little part of her creative heart in Italy, where she has worked, so perhaps it is a certain eclecticism that has drawn us to her jewellery. It may come as no surprise to learn that Jakobs initially intended to become an architect – buildings from around the world are a constant source of inspiration to her. “But it was a difficult time for architects when I was in my 20s, so I went to the School of Jewellery in Sweden to study as a goldsmith and completed a four-year international diploma course in three years,” she explains. “We learned how to do everything in the creative process; I know how to make jewellery – I know what can and can’t be done. It’s difficult to make a collection if you
don’t know how to solve a problem.” She began by working for a Danish company – a move that took her to Italy – and then returned to Iceland where she made jewellery for a children’s charity (a cause that she still contributes towards today). She always knew though that she wanted to have her own business with her own collections. However, rather than create jewellery for a niche market, Jakobs had set her sights a little higher. “My vision was to make jewellery for the whole world – inclusive rather than exclusive,” she explains. “I want Sif Jakobs to be one of the most affordable luxury brands on the international market.
“It’s difficult to have a company in Iceland – it’s a long way from anywhere, whether Asia or Birmingham. Copenhagen though is a perfect location for us.” The Sif Jakobs brand was launched in 2009 and has grown rapidly since then – picked up by fashion and jewellery stores throughout Scandinavia, as well as by the fashion media and Danish (and now British) celebrities. It has just been announced a ‘Gazelle Company’, marking it as ‘the most progressive and fastest growing jewellery brand in Denmark’. To be awarded this accolade, a company must over the past four years have had continuous growth in turnover or gross profit, and overall more than doubled revenue or gross profit during the period. An achievement of which
Jakobs and CEO Søren Dahl are justifiably proud. “It confirms that we are doing the right things and that our many efforts and hours of work pays off,” says Dahl, “People recognise our jewellery, customers tell us that we are different from other companies – we have our own niche, signature look,” says Jakobs. “But in fact I’m following my own style; I follow fashion trends and like my jewellery to have a glamorous feel. I learnt a lot from living and working in Italy – they’re so passionate there. In Arezzo where I lived there are a lot of churches and I spent weekends walking around the town – it was a constant source of inspiration.” Jakobs’ love of Italy is evident in her collections, each one named after an Italian city or town (Prato, Modena, Arezzo, Mantua…), but at the same time, a certain Nordic coolness meets Mediterranean glitz in the pieces. The sterling silver collection comprises rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings, tightly set with zirconia stones, or softened by rose gold – clean, simple lines meeting high-octane sparkle. The Arezzo leather bracelets wind round and round the wrist, the ruggedness made feminine with zirconia, steel pyramid or bead studs. Conversely, pieces that might otherwise be overly feminine, are given a harder edged, rock chick feel, the glamour tempered by black zirconia stones. “We have made great efforts to develop new lines to our jewellery portfolio,” says Dahl, “and now the collection has a dimension that defines Sif Jakobs Jewellery more clearly as a concept and as a brand.”
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 63
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Having the
LAST WORD We can’t believe that it has taken so long to give the Last Word to Willie Hamilton. Better late than never… we’ve asked the omnipresent CEO of the CMJ to spill the beans for us now. Chief executive of the Company of Master Jewellers, Willie Hamilton has been fundamental to its development from a buying group into an influential jewellery organisation that saw turnover rise to over £110 million last year and is set to announce further gains this year, having already passed the £110 million mark by the end of the third quarter. The CMJ now has over 160 members, representing some 250 shops across the UK and Ireland and hosts two trade events and a jewellery business conference a year. Personal profile Willie Hamilton has a background in retailing, previously working in senior positions in marketing, buying, merchandising and operations within the world’s largest consumer co-operative, the Co-operative Group, and holds an MBA in retailing.
Who has been the biggest influence on your life? The obvious answer has to be Christianity and the teachings of Jesus because I live in a Christian world where most of our laws, customs and practices govern my day-today life. As a teenager, I read Manwatching by Desmond Morris. He gave me an insight into the way all people interact and his works have a massive influence upon me. What led you to follow a career in the jewellery industry? After achieving senior management positions in marketing, buying, operations and strategy, I started to look around for a role that would encompass all of those skills. At the same time, three people who didn’t know each other but knew me, sent me the CEO job advert for CMJ. When I then applied and met with the CMJ board it was a meeting of minds and the rest is history. What three words describe you best… in your view AND according to others? From me – happy, excited and grounded; according to others – hard-nosed, authoritative yet sympathetic.
66 THE JEWELLER MARCH/APRIL 2015
What has been the highest point of your career so far? Graduating with a Masters Degree in retailing while managing a senior retail team and the chairmanship of the largest retail charity in the UK. I had a lot going on and delivered on every aspect. If you could wave a magic wand and change any element of the jewellery industry, what would it be? Transparency. This industry is frustratingly naive in believing that it can continue with the ‘smoke and mirrors’ of the current supply chain from field to finger.
If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? None really. I live in the moment and plan for the future by learning from the past. What’s your guiltiest pleasure? My apartment in Rugby is only a few minutes from the office and I sneak home for lunch and catch the last 30 minutes of Bargain Hunt. Tell us something not many people know about you… I followed most of the F1 circuit dressed in my kilt supporting David Coulthard.
Any alternative career? Restaurateur. I have two food concepts that I know would be very successful but retail has always prevented me from creating them. Favourite shopping destination Anywhere that offers style and creativity but not in a pretentious way… I hate the “I saw you coming” mentality of some retailers. Do you Tweet? Yes, but not regularly enough for my liking (I think I will tweet about this right now). What keeps you awake at night? My girlfriend. Quick fire • Jewellery on men? Yes • Delegator or control freak? Delegator, but control freak when I need to be • Cosy night in or wild night out? Cosy night in • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones, because diamonds are coloured too
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