The Jeweller (Oct 2015)

OCTOBER 2015

T H E

V O I C E

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£7.50

I N D U S T R Y

Gems&Jewellery IN CONJUNCTION WITH

Oct 201

5 / Volu

The H ope Sp inel Bejew The A elled Trea l Than su i Colle res: Interv ction iew w ith La wrenc e Stol

ler

In this issue Diamond Special – global market report The Jeweller Picks – from a successful IJL NAJ Awards 2015 – the voting begins!

me 24

/ No.

6

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CONTENTS & CONTACTS

LOUGHBOROUGH 2015 Editor’s Letter

5

Michael Makes His Point

7

Industry News

8

Association News

16

Member of the Month

18

Education

23

Business Support: Security

24

Feature – Future Tech

26

EDF

28

Business Support: Insurance

29

Diamond Intelligence

35

Diamond Opinion

47

Diamond Retailing

48

Feature: Isabella Liu

50

Show Reviews

52

Romancing the Stone

58

Feature: Apprentice Success

60

Where to Go… And What to Read

62

The Classifieds

64

Last Word

66

Oct 2015 / Volume 24 / No. 6

The Hope Spinel Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection Interview with Lawrence Stoller

Highlights from the IRV Conference – part one

30

COVER IMAGE In conjunction with: Domino 3-8 Vyse Street, Birmingham, B18 6LT Tel: +44 (0) 121 236 4772 www.dominojewellery.com

THE JEWELLER PICKS AT IJL News, comments and the various success stories from the aisles

BEAUTY AND THE BEASTS

36

A global diamond market over-view, the issues facing the industry and a plethora of gorgeous gems

56

NAJ AWARDS 2015 The short-list for the first ever NAJ Awards, sponsored by Continental Jewellery.

Vote now!

Gems&Jewellery

This issue includes the history of the recentlyauctioned Hope Spinel, the Al Thani Collection at the V&A, and an interview with awardwinning artist Lawrence Stoller

20

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Jewellers for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com The NAJ is being created from the unification of the N.A.G. and the BJA. The National Association of Goldsmiths is a company limited by guarantee and registered in England and Wales number 00268728. The registered office is 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG. The National Association of Jewellers 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.naj.co.uk CEO: Michael Rawlinson michael.rawlinson@naj.co.uk Editor: Belinda Morris bmorris@colony.co.uk Art Director: Ben Page ben@zest-uk.com

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7749 1705 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian.francis@naj.co.uk Publishing Enquiries/Classified Ads: Neil Oakford neil.oakford@naj.co.uk Contributors: Mary Brittain, David Brough, Tom Cunliffe, Andrew Fellows, Alastair Garner, Christopher Hamilton, Lee Henderson, Sandra Page

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller.

Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3

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COMMENT

EDITOR’S LETTER W

hile at IJL last year, I made a small joke (it really was a joke, I promise) along the lines of my being foot-sore, so it might be nice if an announcement was made to the effect that I would

This issue: “In my opinion the only way to assess the price and value of one stone against another is to compare them next to each other…”

Page 36

be taking up residence in the press office from now on. Any exhibitors wishing me to view

their collections should form an orderly queue… or words to that effect. Amazingly, my joshing was taken seriously, and this year we had ‘meet the press’ on the agenda. And it seemed to work quite well, even if I say so myself.

Cannily, since this issue of the magazine was taking ‘diamonds and diamond jewellery’ as its main topic, I asked to meet up with anyone with diamonds on their mind. It turned out to be a great way to get a variety of perspectives on the market, as well as learn about half a dozen or so businesses that had, so far, not fallen on to my radar. A morning very well spent. And you can check out what I gleaned from some of those encounters – along with many others – in the diamond special, starting on page 35.

That of course, is the great thing about attending industry shows – besides meeting up with familiar faces and checking out current jewellery-crush collections, there’s the discovery factor. IJL, the CMJ event, London Fashion Week, Goldsmiths’ Fair… they’ve all reaped huge benefits as far as news, emerging names, networking and, er, gossip goes. And as The Jeweller is a family member of the National Association of Jewellers, it’s been really exciting (and novel) to be part of the news… and not simply reporting on it!

The same intelligence-gathering also happens at conferences. The recent IRV Loughborough weekend, as ever, informed and enlightened all those who attended – see p20 for the first in our two-part report on the talks, awards and workshops. And, as you read this, my head will be filled, still, with the nuggets of wisdom gathered from the CMJ Conference held earlier in the month – always an inspiring event.

“IJL was a brilliant opportunity for the watch and jewellery markets to cross over and view the collections side Wby side…”

Page 30

So, if you want to hear about what I learned, you’ll find me, reclining on a chaise longue in Claridges…

THEJEWELLER/MIS/OCT/2015

just get in line. Joke.

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at bmorris@colony.co.uk

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5

MARK MILTON AFFORDABLE LUXURY

mark-milton.com

COMMENT

MICHAEL makes his point

“the more visibility the Association has with consumers, the stronger the impact our message ‘The Mark of Quality’ will have…”

H

aving a deadline and short run up to an event can really focus the mind.

A matter of just 35 days from my appointment as the first CEO of the National Association of Jewellers, to the first public appearance of the Association at IJL, was no mean feat (nor a task for the faint-hearted). The successful achievement is entirely down to the commitment and hard work of the very capable staff from both the Birmingham and London offices, as well as the marketing agency and suppliers we work with. The resulting stand, literature and selfie competition were regarded by everyone I spoke to as being hugely successful and I think we can be justifiably proud of our first appearance.

I’m delighted that Rigby Jewellers of Chester won the selfie competition and will receive free membership for 2016.

We have already produced new member logos for use on your websites, printed materials and advertisements. I hope that all members will proudly display this

logo, as the more visibility the Association has with consumers, the stronger the impact our message ‘The Mark of Quality’ will have, and this should translate into more consumers wanting to buy from member businesses. Other support materials that will help you communicate to the consumer will be introduced over the coming months; we hope that these will be useful to you. Some will be available before the end of the year, but the main launch will be at Jewellery & Watch next February. If you have ideas for literature or other items that you think would be helpful to you and fellow members, please do let me know. If we get enough interest for any particular idea we will happily develop the resource.

To support our goal of building consumer confidence we have created a new Code of Conduct.

A consultation of this was launched at IJL and we are asking for your comments and feedback during the month of October.

We will take the feedback and make any necessary final adjustments so that we are ready for all members to sign up to the Code alongside their membership renewal on 1st January 2016. I am particularly interested in your views on three key areas of the code: the guiding principles, the detailed code rules, and the disciplinary procedures and proposed sanctions for breaches of the code. You can access the draft code at www.naj.co.uk/ en/code-of-conduct/ and you can feedback your views either via the website or directly to amanda.white@naj.co.uk The newly-formed National Committee is now receiving expressions of interest from members who would like to get more involved in supporting the work of the Association by serving on committees and working groups. Groups will reflect the key work areas of the Association – education, consumer confidence, marketing – as well as covering the key subsectors of membership: retail, manufacturing and the key trades.

If this could be of interest to you please get in touch with me.

JET education has been a jewel in the crown of the NAG for many years. Under the leadership of Kate Madelin, our director of education, we are currently undertaking a review of our exciting courses. We are updating them to ensure they remain relevant and appropriate for today’s retail environment, as well as looking to see how we might re-purpose the content so that it might be relevant to other sectors of the membership. We will also be looking at what new training materials or courses we need to develop to support and enhance the professionalism and capability across the whole membership.

Finally, I know that for some members across several areas of the industry, trading conditions continue to remain tough, but we all need to pull together to make the most of the up-and-coming festive season. If we are properly prepared we stand a much better chance of succeeding. New NAJ window stickers for consumerfacing members are being printed as I write, and other materials – helpful to the consumer – are also being developed. Take the fullest advantage of the next few months and make sure to highlight your membership of the Association as your Mark of Quality, professionalism and integrity.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 7

INDUSTRY NEWS

JEWELLERY & WATCH LAUNCHES REBRAND T

he annual trade event Jewellery & Watch has unveiled new branding ahead of its February 2016 show, including a new logo and new inspiration behind the show, which made its first appearance in the recentlylaunched website. The show will no longer feature ‘Birmingham’ in its name.

The new branding focuses on The Art of Jewellery; with close-up imagery of a variety of pieces, highlighting the texture, detail, intricacy and artistry of the designs. This in turn, provides a gallery-feel that captures the sculptural form of the jewellery, while emphasising the premium nature of the exhibitors.

The aim of the change is to bring together a wide range of exhibitors, combining different styles, under one roof. The designs have been tailored to suit different buyers with different tastes and a keen eye for design. Ensuring the audience can identify with minimalistic yet strong crafted pieces of ‘art’, the rebranding is “confident, clean, refined and edited”.

Inspiration behind the rebrand, says the show’s organiser i2i Events Group, comes from “a current swing in the industry towards fashion-led jewellery trends, which have started to make an appearance in fine and precious jewellery designs”.

The show will add to its Design Quarter for 2016 with the launch of British Born & Made, a curated area dedicated to showcasing British jewellery design. The launch comes as a direct response to feedback from buyers, which indicated a strong desire for both ‘home grown’ and new collections at the show.

Among the confirmed line-up are Muscari Jewellery, ContraryMary and Zalisander Jewellery.

The biggest change to the rebranded website is the faceted search. This will allow exhibitors to tag their products shown on the website, making it easier for buyers to search for specific products using a number of key

criteria such as product type, material, stone, occasion and even price point (RRP).

Phase two of the new Jewellery & Watch website will be the Most Viewed Product Chart and the Wish List functionality.

The former will provide insights into which products visitors are looking at the most. As the technology evolves across the retail shows, Jewellery & Watch hopes to piece together useful intelligence on trends and changes within the industry.

The Wish List will work as a virtual shopping basket for visitors, allowing them to add favourite items to the virtual basket, while browsing the directory of the latest products.

Visitors can then email the Wish List to themselves and record the desired products along with exhibitor information.

NEW BELGRAVIA DIAMOND BOUTIQUE

FANCY VIVID PINK DIAMOND FOR SALE

L

T

ast month saw the launch of luxury diamond and gemstone jewellery house W Salamoon’s first boutique outside of its Beirut homeland. At a cocktail reception in the Jumeirah Carlton Tower, across the road from the Lowndes Street store, guests that included royalty, celebrities and industry influencers, were given a spectacular and comprehensive insight into the many and varied collections.

Models, who included Miss England 2013 and living statues, were adorned with some of the more spectacular pieces, while members of the third-generation family of jewellers were on-hand to describe the craftsmanship of the various pieces on display. Co-owner Gabriel Salamoon, said of the event: “We’re very proud to have launched in London at a time where fine jewellery is becoming more prominent. We’re now hoping to establish a trusted and varied client base, grounding our UK launch in confidence and success.”

8 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

he largest Fancy Vivid pink diamond, estimated at US$23-38 million, is to be offered for sale by Christie’s International in Geneva on 10th November. The type lla, 16.08ct, cushion-shaped stone, set as a ring with a double row of pavé-set white diamonds and small pink diamonds, will be featured in the ‘Magnificent Jewels’ auction.

In the Fancy Vivid pink range, diamonds of even five or six carats are rarely encountered in the sale room and those over 10 carats are virtually unheard of. In almost 250 years of auction history, only three pure vivid pink diamonds of over 10 carats have appeared for sale.

“This diamond comes to market at a time when great gems are mirroring prices achieved for masterpieces in the world of fine art.

Collectors are looking to jewels as savvy investments that are both beautiful and can appreciate considerably in value over a relatively short period of time,” notes Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s international head of jewellery.

ASSOCIATION FOR UK PEARL TRADE LAUNCHED I

JL last month saw the introduction to the industry of a fledgling national trade group, which aims to promote UK pearl gems and all pearl suppliers. The British Pearl Association (BPA) represents pearl (cultured and natural) designer jewellers, craftsmen and women, pearl jewellery wholesalers and suppliers, galleries, e-tailers and traders.

“The BPA is a positive step forward for the pearl industry,” explains its founder and president Louise Tippey, who is also the CEO of jewellery brand Pearls by Fleur. “We can bring greater specialist pearl support, advice and representation for the pearl trade.

“Before our inauguration we carried out a study to discover exactly what the needs were of all pearl suppliers and found a gap in the market. We are also aiming to increase consumer confidence in the pearl industry so that ultimately our members will prosper. We would like to complement existing trade associations and bring our specialist knowledge of pearls.”

The BPA Committee includes a commercial and legal expert, a retail store advisor and business mentor and an on-line retail advisor. The Association’s website offers members (who include Pearlescence, Ping Ping Jewellery and Mirabelle) a product image showcase as well as a direct link to their own websites. Members will also benefit from promotion of their latest collections across the BPA’s social media channels and via press releases on the BPA News pages.

S N I P P E T S Jewellery & Watch Week at Royal Exchange Luxury shopping destination The Royal Exchange in the City of London hosted the second annual Watch & Jewellery Week earlier this month. The five day celebration was supported by premier watch magazine QP and included panel discussions, exhibitions and the chance for visitors to deepen their watch and jewellery knowledge.

Biiju supports cancer charity Fine jewellery brand Biiju has joined the fight against breast cancer this month, by donating 30 per cent of all proceeds of its Explosion Ring in pink tourmaline and 18ct rose gold to Cancer Research UK. The ring, which retails at just under £3,000, is a feature on the homepage of the Biiju website, with the existing banners/designs of the homepage being changed to pink to complement the pink theme for October: Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

Shaun Leane wins design award British jewellery designer Shaun Leane took home the award for Best International Jewellery Designer at the Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards last month. Held during the Vicenza fair in Italy, the awards, now in their third year, honour excellence across the premium jewellery sector. Previous winners include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Fabergé.

Immediate plans are to build membership and compile an A-Z pearl glossary. “Members believe we should be the go-to destination for pearl education,” explains Tippey. “We are also working on plans for the near future that include seminars and educational activities.”

BONHAMS LAUNCHES TV AD CAMPAIGN T

his month, leading international auction house Bonhams is to launch its first ever TV ad campaign dedicated to jewellery. The campaign marks the first time that a major international auction house has advertised on TV and the integrated brand campaign called Be Part of the Story aims to drive brand awareness and encourage people to buy and sell their jewellery at Bonhams.

The 40-second TV spots break in the UK this month. The ad, revolving around the provenance and history of jewellery, is narrated by actor Sir Michael Gambon and is being supported by press, billboards, taxis and social media platforms.

Tresor Paris launches ‘Quantum Cubus’ The Hatton Garden-based jewellery brand has unveiled its new ‘Quantum Cubus’ range of jewellery for men and women – fresh, minimalist-look pieces (necklaces, bracelet, rings and cufflinks) in stainless steel, either featuring lapis lazuli stone details or remaining very clean with white gold plating.

Jet attraction at antiques show Whitby jet will be a special attraction at this winter’s Antiques for Everyone at the NEC, Birmingham (19th - 22nd November 2015). ‘Whitby Jet – The Heritage of a Truly British Gemstone’ display will be presented by W. Hamond (owned by CW Sellors). A particular highlight will be the world’s largest piece of Whitby jet, which measures 21ft in length. The specimen was shown to delegates at last year’s Gem-A Conference by Chris Sellors.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 9

INDUSTRY NEWS

ASSAY OFFICE NEWS AND DEVELOPMENTS

S N I P P E T S

Office Birmingham (AOB) is celebrating the news that A ssay leading designers from the Jewellery Quarter will have their work

sold at Birmingham’s new John Lewis department store, which opened in the Bullring on 24th September. AOB was instrumental in the development of a project that has seen a select group of Birmingham jewellery designers create exclusive collections to be sold in-store.

Kicking off with designers and AOB customers James Newman, Kate Smith, Becca Williams, Rhiannon Lewis, Collette Waudby and Fei Liu, the John Lewis store will operate on a six-month cycle, selling the work of various designer-makers from the Jewellery Quarter.

Jacobs is Reading winner

Stella Layton, Assay Master and CEO at AOB, said: “This is an incredible achievement for the designers involved, and reflects the huge amount of skill and ambition within Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. The fact that we were able to support these talented and driven individuals to a commercial venture with a premium retailer like John Lewis, is fantastic. We wish them every success.”

Jacobs the Jewellers has been voted Independent Retailer of the Year in the 2015 Reading Retail Awards. It was praised by judges for its high quality entry, highlighting its personal, high levels of customer service. The family-run jeweller was also a finalist in the ‘Best Promotional Initiative’ category.

This Autumn sees changes to AOB’s senior management team after the move to its new office in the Jewellery Quarter. Former sales and marketing director Marion Wilson now holds the Marion Wilson Nyasha Pitt newly created role of Academy director. This role will focus on promoting the heritage and history of AOB, championing and providing industry-specific training courses and establishing Anchorcert Academy as a premier conferencing and events space. To continue the focus on sales, business development and marketing, Nyasha Pitt has been newly appointed as commercial director.

F Hinds opens new stores

LAING CREATES ANNIVERSARY NECKLET T

o celebrate its 175th anniversary, the prestigious independent jeweller Laing Edinburgh has unveiled a spectacular, one-off, ‘175’ diamond necklet, valued at £175,000. Also paying tribute to the company’s diamond legacy, the piece boasts 447 round brilliant cut pavé diamonds set in platinum, with a double diamond drop.

The necklace took nine months to create, with the diamonds set within Laing Edinburgh’s in-house workshop. It features an innovative clasp engraved with ‘175’ which opens onto the year 1840 with the ‘0’ as the pin buckle hole. The two and three carat diamonds in the drop, bring the total to 25 carats and all the stones were chosen by Michael and Richard Laing from their longstanding cutters in Antwerp.

10 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

F Hinds has opened three new stores in three months.

Following the St John’s Shopping Centre, Liverpool, launch (with Andrew Hinds’ children cutting the ribbon), and another in Durham (opened by cricketer Chris Rushmore), the Peterborough branch was revealed, with rugby star Darren Fox wielding the over-sized, ribbon-cutting, golden scissors.

New Worthing store for Pressleys Independent jewellers Pressleys has opened a new store on Worthing’s busiest shopping street. The 900 sq ft Montague Street store replaces Pressleys’ former Etcetera store, located on South Street, and features brands including Swarovski, Michael Kors, Bering, Alex Monroe, Links of London, Skagen and Ntinga. In addition, a dedicated bridal and fine jewellery area will open later in the year and will include Chalfen of London’s white label concept, branded as Pressleys’ own.

Storm goes back to its roots Last month British watch and jewellery brand Storm launched its latest store at Camden Lock, taking the company back to where it began over 25 years ago. The 22 square meter space, with a raw, modern feel and exposed brick walls, is in stark contrast to Storm’s traditional store design. The second London store, it joins the flagship Carnaby Street shop.

Diamdax/Brinks collaboration Security and global transport company Brinks and certified diamond exchange Diamdax, have joined forces to provide an international electronic trading exchange. The move aims to provide traders with a fast, efficient, secure and anonymous method of buying and selling certified, polished diamonds around the world at anytime.

INDUSTRY NEWS

BEAVERBROOKS LAUNCHES EXCLUSIVE DIAMOND LINE street multiple jewellery retailer Beaverbrooks has unveiled a H igh UK-exclusive range of platinum diamond wedding jewellery. The 17-piece Diamond Silhouette collection comprises halos, clusters and solitaire engagement rings alongside completely new diamond silhouette rings, which are designed to encase and enhance the engagement ring.

Each of the six silhouette rings has been designed slightly differently to complement the varying styles of engagement rings and both engagement and silhouette rings are available in plain or diamond-set bands, or a mixture of each.

“Silhouette rings are a new concept to the UK consumer and we’re so excited to be introducing them to our customers,” comments Lorna Burhouse, diamond and wedding ring buyer at Beaverbrooks.

S N I P P E T S Award for Allumer Jewellery founder Natasha Leith-Smith, founder of NAJ member Allumer Jewellery, has been recognised as a Retail Ambassador in the 2015 Specsavers Everywoman in Retail Ambassador Programme.

Unveiled at a ceremony in Claridges last month, with 12 women elected for their achievements and influences within the retail industry, the awards showcase the career opportunities retail offers women of all ages.

Hope Spinel fetches a record $1.4 million A rare British-owned spinel sold for a record price of £19,800 a carat at Bonhams Fine Jewellery sale in London last month. Set in a 19th-century silver and gold brooch, the 50.13ct octagonalcut stone was bought by a private telephone bidder. The stone was part of one of the world’s greatest gem collections until its owner – London banker Henry Philip Hope – died in 1839. Until last month, it has not been offered for sale since 1917, when it sold for £1,060 – the equivalent of £80,000 today.

New appointments at RJC

EDINBURGH AO INTRODUCES DIAMOND CERTS TO HEATHROW T

he Edinburgh Assay Office has introduced a new diamond certification option to its Hallmarking in Transit offering at London’s Heathrow Airport. The service is provided by Solitaire Gem Labs (SGL) and will enable Hallmarking in Transit customers to add a one-stop, secure diamond certification to the existing hallmarking service. This will enable importers of precious metal jewellery from outside the UK to have their goods hallmarked and certified at one secure location, as part of the import process.

The process starts with the product being carried to Heathrow by Malca Amit and then tested and hallmarked by the Edinburgh Assay Office while in transit. The option now exists to have diamond set products certified by SGL on site, prior to final onward delivery. Finally, the product can be delivered to any UK or international location via Malca Amit. There is also an option to bring the product to Heathrow under a temporary import scheme operated by Malca Amit, where import tax can be deferred until the shipment reaches its final destination.

Joel Sturfer of UJT, an early adopter of the service said: “In the UK, the challenge of dealing with separate institutions for hallmarking, logistics and certification has made it difficult to create an effective supply chain that helps serve multiple retailers. The answer is to carry out hallmarking and certification in a single location as part of the import process, thereby also making savings. We are now able to serve our clients across UK in a much more effective manner without expending unnecessary time and money on complex logistics routines.”

12 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), has announced the appointment of Anne-Marie Fleury as standards and impacts director. She joins Bethan Herbert, certification and impacts manager and Maria Mursell, training and assurance manager.

As part of the RJC team working alongside executive director Andrew Bone and COO Catherine Sproule, Fleury will be responsible for providing strategic and technical leadership in standards development, certification, assurance, impact measurement and reporting.

Azza Fahmy supports BM exhibit Azza Fahmy, the premier luxury Egyptian jewellery house, has built on its relationship with the British Museum, with the creation of a second bespoke capsule collection that will be available in the Museum’s Grenville Room and exhibition shop. The line supports the ‘Egypt: faith after the pharaohs’ exhibition, which runs until February 2016, and is inspired by the imagery of coins from the exhibition, as well as from 18th-century pocket watches.

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INDUSTRY NEWS

BIRMINGHAM DYNASTIES BAND TOGETHER T

wo of the city’s oldest family businesses made history last month, by joining forces to offer customers almost 400 years of jewellery trade experience. Precious metals specialist the Stephen Betts Group, which started life in the Jewellery Quarter in 1760, has expanded its services by acquiring neighbouring tool provider Sutton Tools.

have traded together as far back as the 19th century. As very long standing family businesses, both [companies] place the well-being of staff at the fore, and also share a passion for quality, service and

Charlie Betts, MD at the Stephen Betts Group, described the sale as judicious, saying: “Sutton Tools has been providing tools to jewellery makers for 131 years and our two companies would

knowledge of the industry in which they operate.

“The Stephen Betts Group aims to provide a complete service offering to the jewellery trade.

Charlie Betts and Maggie Nichols

We already operate smelting and refining services, metals sales and investments, as well as recycling.

Having previously offered a narrow range of tools, this acquisition represents a natural progression to our portfolio and will enhance the Group’s presence in the Jewellery Quarter, offering two of the best hands-on trade counters in the area.”

The sale comes as Sutton Tools MD Maggie Nichols prepares for retirement. Nichols described the deal as the best possible outcome for Suttons and its staff, who will all be remaining with the business at its showroom on Vittoria Street.

FAIRTRADE GOLD MINER CAMBRIDGE JEWELLER’S VISITS QUARTER TRIBUTE TO TROOPS Fairtrade gold miner, Josephine Aguti, has visited A Ugandan Birmingham Jewellery Quarter manufacturer Hockley Mint this month, as part of a UK visit to meet the businesses supporting gold miners and their families in East Africa.

Working as part of a team of women and men at one of the first artisanal mines to be certified Fairtrade in September 2015, Aguti saw where the gold they mine is transformed from raw product to wedding rings and bridal jewellery for the UK market.

She toured Hockley Mint and met staff members at various stages of jewellery manufacture. Josephine also told employees about her own work and life, and the role Fairtrade has played in improving the health and safety, education and livelihoods of East African miners and their families.

The day before her visit, Aguti, along with Hockley Mint sales director Judith Lockwood, took part in a special press conference focused on Fairtrade gold in London. Other speakers included Gonzaga Mungai of Fairtrade Cred’s Alan Frampton and Josephine Africa, ethical businesswoman Liz Aguti with fellow miner workers Earle, CEO of the NAJ Michael Rawlinson, and Alan Frampton, MD of ethical jewellery business and Fairtrade gold wholesaler Cred Jewellery.

The UK’s first Fairtrade jewellery press event – a Facets Pr/Fairtrade Foundation collaboration – included collections from Anna Loucah, Tessa Packard, Liz Earle, Sarah Jordan, Sorrel Bay, House of Eleanore, Mastercut Diamonds, Cred Jewellery, Arctic Circle and Hockley Mint.

14 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

Jones of Cambridge has organised a Poppy Dinner as a C atherine tribute to the bravery of the Royal Anglian Regiment, which has served in conflicts worldwide. The fund-raising evening will be held on 11th November, Remembrance Day, and each guest ticket sold will include a place for a member of the Regiment, past or present. The Regiment will seek to find representatives from all actions since WWII to be guests.

The event will be held in the magnificent surroundings of the Old Hall, Queen’s College Cambridge, with Field Marshall the Lord Walker of Aldringham and Lady Walker as guests of honour, representing the Royal Anglian Regiment. Mark Poynton, Great British Menu star and chef-patron of Michelin-starred Restaurant Alimentum, Cambridge, will create the dishes, which will be prepared from ingredients grown and produced in the region of the Regiment.

The evening will include a photo/video montage presented by former BBC war correspondent Martin Bell, who did his national service with the Suffolk Regiment, a pre-cursor to the Royal Anglian.

Vanessa Burkitt, MD Catherine Jones of Cambridge, said: “The Royal Anglian surged into public consciousness through their valour in action in Afghanistan where they continue to serve, today. The dinner will be an opportunity to thank the Royal Anglian for the challenging service they give unstintingly, to preserve our freedom.”

“Contributions and support from the jewellery industry are most welcome,” Burkitt added. “The silversmith Christopher Hamilton has generously agreed to make some unique pieces for auction on the night, while Gecko has applied for tickets and is kindly sponsoring the evening.”

For ticket and sponsorship information call Vanessa Burkitt on 07773 777174 or email: vanessa.burkett@catherinejones.com

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

ASSOCIATION NEWS OCT

T H E

Gems& IN CON

JUN CTIO

NAJ CEO TO SPEAK AT FESTIVAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE

Rawlinson, the National Association of Jeweller’s chief executive, will be one of the keynote M ichael speakers at an event addressing Responsibility in Fine Jewellery Consumption, which is being held at

the Birmingham Assay Office (11th November, 2015).

Part of the 13th annual Festival of Social Science, organised by the Economic & Social Research Council and Coventry University’s Centre for Business in Society, the evening event aims to share recently-published research on consumer behaviour, ethical practices and ethical issues in consumption. Rawlinson will be joined by fellow speaker Judith Lockwood, MD of Artic Circle Diamonds and sales director of Hockley Mint.

The free event is also intended to raise industry awareness about what matters to jewellery consumers regarding social, economic and environmental impact of purchases. It will also offer the opportunity for an exchange of ideas and discussion of the challenges for responsible business in jewellery.

To register for the evening talks (which follow drinks and snacks), email: cbisadmin.bes@coventry.ac.uk

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY FT REPORT

P

atrick Fuller, chairman of Weston Beamor and first president of the NAJ, offered his views on the state of the British jewellery industry – the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter in particular – in a Financial Times report last month.

In the feature he points out that although imports account for 70 per cent of the jewellery market, Birmingham’s jewellers – of which WB is one – still generate 40 per cent of UK production. However, exports account for about half of its sales and Fuller bemoans the fact that the Quarter, while talked up by the city council, does not offer much for the visiting consumer to buy. “I think the Jewellery Quarter should be selling nice jewellery for people who cannot afford to buy it at Mappin & Webb,” he says.

The story outlines how and why the Quarter has changed, even in the past few years, and how pockets of it remain much the same – in terms of manufacturing processes at least – as they were over 200 years ago. But the trade is having to move forward, he says.

“Technology is making its mark in our industry and the challenge for UK manufacturers will be to keep up the investment.”

WIN AN APPLE WATCH to tell the world about your brand, product or service? PR W ant Newswire is the global market leader for news distribution and is one of the most credible news sources for journalists, consumers and investors. Essentially, they send your content to the most influential fashion editors and journalists that write about jewellery and watches.

They have recently made some exciting changes to their ‘Agility’ platform, encompassing social media and broadcasting content. This will allow you to create media contact lists and distribute your content while interacting with journalists, bloggers and social influencers in real time.

NAJ Members can contact Michael Howarth (michael.howarth@ prnewswire.co.uk) for a demonstration and the chance to win an Apple Watch! The first five members to contact him will be given a 50 per cent reduction on this package; thereafter a 25 per cent discount will be offered to all NAJ members.

16 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

KICKSTARTERS AT LONDON ROCKS jewellery store D esigner London Rocks held a reception last month to introduce its customers to KickStart designers. The Leather Lane, Farringdon store, is renowned for carrying collections by contemporary designer makers such as Maud Traon, Karl Karter and Madjan Rocks.

As well as previewing new collections, the evening event offered a chance for customers to meet the designers themselves, who this year were: Ana Thompson, Ellie Air, Flora Bhattachary, Rosalie Mcmillan, Francesca Marcenaro, Ilene Steele, Mirka Janeckova, Laura Parra, September Rose and Rosalie Mcmillan.

A selection of pieces from around seven of the designers will be available at London Rocks for the next three months.

V O I C E

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The Hope Bejew The elled Spine l Al Thani Treas Collecures: iew with tion Lawre nce Stolle

Interv

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In thi

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Diamo nd The Jew Special – glo bal ma eller Pick rke NAJ Aw ards 201 s – from a suc t report 5 – the cessful voting IJL begins!

ONLINE ACCESS TO JEWELLER MAGAZINE NOW AVAILABLE NAJ members can now A llaccess The Jeweller online by logging in with their current membership number.

The current issue, as well as all archived issues, can be viewed online via the NAJ website (www.naj.co.uk) or directly at: www.thejewellermagazine.com

THE CONSUMER RIGHTS ACT 2015 of the key aims of the O neConsumer Rights Act (CRA) is to consolidate consumer legislation into one piece of legislation. The CRA also updates consumer rights to reflect both the ongoing growth in e-commerce and the more recent growth in the digital content market.

Traders should make sure they understand the new provisions on consumer rights and how these apply to their businesses, and should also ensure that their terms and conditions are brought up to date to reflect the changes.

You can find further guidance on these issues on the business companion website: www.businesscompanion.info If you wish to discuss any of the matters raised, or if you require assistance updating your terms and conditions, please contact Richard Bailey or Lindsey Crockett at Steeles Law: commercial@ steeleslaw.co.uk

PRE-SHOW SEMINARS ON PLANNING AND PREPARATION FOR EXHIBITORS

ASSOCIATION SUPPORTS CHRISTIE’S JEWELLERY EVENING

planning to exhibit at Jewellery & Watch 2016 are being offered the chance to learn how to make the most of their presence at the event (or, indeed, any trade fair) with a special seminar being held next month. Called ‘The 10 Ps of a Profitable Show’ it covers everything from the planning and preparation to during – and very importantly after – the show, to turn leads into business.

event – one of a series of such evenings featuring different saleroom categories – will offer the public a chance to view archive jewels as well as to meet industry experts.

brands and D esigners, manufacturing companies

To be held in the National Association of Jewellers’ London and Birmingham offices on the 9th and 17th November respectively, the workshops will be provided by jewellery business and training expert Jo Henderson (pictured) of JHJC, who has acted as a consultant to many renowned jewellery brands (such as Clogau, Casio and Fei Liu) and has run seminars for Jewellery & Watch. She has run this seminar twice before, with great success.

For further details of the two seminars please contact: lindsey.straughton@naj.co.uk

ASSOCIATION HAS PRESENCE AT INDUSTRY CONFERENCES

T

he Association was in attendance at both the Company of Master Jewellers and National Pawnbrokers Association conferences earlier this month. At the former, held in Nottingham on 6th and 7th, CEO Michael Rawlinson was on-hand to reinforce the NAJ’s ‘Mark of Quality’ ethos to CMJ members. He was also among the delegates who enjoyed a broad range of speakers that included businessman and active House of Lords crossbencher Lord Digby Jones and ethical entrepreneur Liz Earle.

At the NPA’s event in Victoria, London, last week – at which Stella Layton from the Birmingham Assay Office presented a jewellery market update – the NAJ took a stand to help further drive home its message to the industry.

NAJ CODE OF CONDUCT PROPOSED AND READY FOR REVIEW

A

new Code of Conduct has been drafted and launched at IJL that will come into effect in the New Year. Members are being asked to review the new code and feedback their comments in regard to the three main areas: the code principles, the practicality of operating the code and the disciplinary procedures and proposed sanctions for breaches of the code. You can download a copy of the code from the website site (at www.naj.co.uk) and give feedback via the website or to amanda.white@naj.co.uk

auction house is to hold a consumer-facing Jewellery C hristie’s Evening at its South Kensington office on 3rd November. The

The NAJ is supporting the event, offering a chance to convey the Association’s consumer confidence message and promote its Mark of Quality. Also during the evening, Joanna Hardy, jewellery expert, author and a regular on the BBC’s Antiques Road Show, will be interviewing the British jewellery designer Shaun Leane.

NAJ COMMUNICATION UPDATE

A

s we progress rapidly towards finalising all legal and financial aspects of the Unification – to be completed by the start of 2016 – our various lines of communication are, of course, up and running. Online information – whether in connection with member services, training or to locate another member perhaps, can be found at our new web address: www.naj.co.uk Meanwhile, should you need to contact us directly, members of the NAJ teams in Birmingham and London can be reached via: firstname. surname@naj.co.uk

MEMBER TO MEMBER OFFERS

A

s an association we like to provide opportunities for our members to advertise their products and services to a captive audience.

Our Member to Member Offers page sits within our online Members area. Here suppliers can advertise their special offers for free. This might be something that is only available to fellow members or, for example, a seasonal proposal. Email your offer to: holly.burnett@naj.co.uk

NEW MEMBER APPLICATIONS To ensure that NAJ Members are aware of new applications for NAJ Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below and on our website. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Nikita Clair on 0121 237 1159 or email: nikita.clair@naj.co.uk within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Full Member Applications Designer/Craftsman Application • BMG Jewellery • Kristian Horsham, Suffolk • Lakha Personal Associate Applications • Roseberry Jewellery • Craig Palmer-Fairbairn, Australia • Robert Glenn • Simon Rufus, Kent • Probus Trading Limited

NAJ’s INSTITUTE OF REGISTERED VALUERS If members wish to comment on any of these please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615.

Upgrading from Member • Diane Owen FNAG GIA to Fellow Diamonds Graduate GIA Colored Stones Graduate AGSRJ, • Elizabeth McAuley PJDip Paul James Jwlrs Ltd, Oxted.

PJGemDip PJValDip, Baker • Graham Price, Trinity Brothers, Bedford.

Goldsmiths, Nottingham.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 17

ASSOCIATION NEWS

MEMBER of the

MONTH

It’s fantastic when a member of the public heaps praise upon an Association member. When we received two ringing endorsements recently for Hereford-based Andrew Lamputt Silversmith & Jeweller, closer investigation was clearly in order.

What is the history of your store?

The shop has been a jewellery store since before WWII. Prior to that it was a wig shop and before that a distillery. We still use the wig cupboard on the shop floor for spare silver stock, but alas we’ve not found any unopened gin bottles in the cellar yet…

My wife Linda and I started the business on Valentines Day, 1985.

We’ve been members of the Association since then and value the service and kudos provided.

How has the shop changed over the years?

Very little. As a Grade II listed building we’re unable to change the shop front and window and have no desire to do so – it has a certain timeless charm. The interior has old mahogany, glass and mirror-backed cabinets with lovely curved glass panels dating from the early 20th century.

Filled with stock of old and new silverware they create a ‘stepping back in time’ atmosphere, which seems to amaze new visitors and reassures regular clients – an antidote to the more corporate style of high street jewellers.

We cater for most age ranges, providing inevitable brands like Trollbeads. However, our core range revolves around fine antique/vintage jewellery and silverware, complemented with high quality new diamond and gem set jewellery.

We’re lucky to have a great team on the shop floor and in the

18 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

workshops. We’ve always regarded our staff as an asset and recognise that the business would be difficult to run without their skills and loyalty.

How far do customers travel to shop with you?

Our customers come from all over the globe as well as via the internet. We’re known for providing solutions to problems when customers are looking for unusual gifts. Our stock is varied and different, ranging from silver christening gifts through to all types of new and antique, large diamond set rings. It’s a joy to watch a new customer’s face as we produce attractive high quality antique pieces restored and ready to present in a gift box.

How much of your time is spent on valuations?

I became an IRV valuer in 1999 and have been developing my skills ever since. I value all the items we sell over £1,000, usually as part of our service, and spend a third of my working week appraising/valuing clients’ jewellery and silverware.

The demand on valuers has increased greatly over the years, however there are no shortcuts or alternative routes to completing a professional appraisal. The valuer’s job must meet the ever-increasing demands for accuracy and professionalism. The CAT programme provides us with our baselines and has proved to be indispensable. A key to becoming

a good valuer is dialogue with the client and interpretations of all the aspects involved. No two items of jewellery are identical and the appraisal is like a ‘finger print’ for each piece.

So service is clearly important?

Our philosophy is that customer service is key. We’ve always prided ourselves on adding value whenever possible and our customers appreciate that, returning time and again. We provide a free sizing, valuation and gift-wrapping service and endeavour to exceed expectations. One small but most important detail (which we train new staff members to do on their first day) is to look up and smile as a customer comes in. This has an amazing effect, usually starting everything off on the right foot.

In the present climate we realise that going the extra mile is recognised and appreciated and with social media dominating communications, it can only be a positive thing to do.

Is silverware still popular?

The range of stock has changed significantly over the years and we have had to adjust it to cater for differing needs. We rarely keep heavy items in stock, but we hold a large range of smaller, pretty pieces, which appeal to collectors and those looking for something different.

We have the facilities and skill required to restore old and antique silverware pieces and present then in an attractive way.

Our silversmith is on hand to repair and restore clients’ items of silverware – antique and modern. We’re often asked to carry out silver restoration work for Hereford Cathedral and Hereford City Council among other organisations. This type of work requires a great deal of understanding, from preserving the patina of each piece, to ensuring the repairs are sympathetically completed, in keeping with the item’s age.

Do you have an amusing customer anecdote?

One morning the shop front door lock jammed and we were unable to open it, leaving several customers and ourselves locked in and potential customers locked out. We pinned a note on the glass in the door to explain.

Most customers understood; however, a smartly-dressed gent insisted on a conversation through the low level letterbox!

Linda eventually resorted to talking to him through it by kneeling on the floor, while he knelt on the pavement. He insisted that he had travelled a long way and was unable to return and needed to leave a repair with us now. He then poked a silvermounted walking cane through the letterbox explaining he needed the mount repaired and engraved with a monogram. Customer service prevailed and Linda issued a completed repair receipt back through the letterbox. He left a happy customer. Good job it wasn’t a teapot…



                                          

 x x x



 



  

ASSOCIATION NEWS

LOUGHBOROUGH CONFERENCE 2015

O

f the 209 Loughborough participants, 83 were IRVs – over half of the IRV membership. We also welcomed 47 first-timers (seven of them IRVs) and past and present CAT students, seven of whom were applauded for passing the 2014 CAT exam. Ten FIRVs, elected since the last Conference, were also hailed.

A ballot took place to elect an IRV to serve on the IRV Committee following Steven Jordan’s decision not to stand for re-election. Of the six candidates, Andrée Richardson polled the most votes and will start her three-year term at the Committee’s next meeting this month.

Other highlights of the Conference included the presentation of the David Wilkins Award (this year voted for by the IRVs) by Margaret Wilkins, to not one but two winners – the first time this has happened since the award was first presented in 1994. IRVs Barry Sullivan and Graham Price (right) shared the honour. Also, the NAJ’s vice president, David Callaghan, was awarded the prestigious Michael Norman Fellowship, which is given to “an individual who has given outstanding service throughout their career, in the sphere of jewellery appraisal and valuation and in particular to the Institute of Registered Valuers. The award, which is only to be given in very exceptional circumstances will be held by the recipient for life”.

Two copies of the long-awaited book Gem Testing Techniques were donated for a free draw by the author and guest speaker Alan Hodgkinson, and one by another fellow speaker Steve Carson.

Another guest speaker, Joanna Hardy (of BBC1 Antiques Roadshow), donated her books Emeralds and the recently published Cartier Panthere, which were auctioned by Stephen Whittaker of Fellows Auctioneers, raising £500 for the NAJ Centenary Trust (the winning bids went to Richard Cope and Charles Perry). Thanks also to NAJ chairman Andrew Hinds for donating bottles of his famous Hinds No.1 Scotch Bonnet SERIOUSLY HOT Chilli Sauce – sold to delegates raising another £300 for the Trust.

20 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

Presided over, with aplomb, by chairman Frank Wood, there was a record turn-out for the Institute’s 27th Loughborough Conference last month. Sandra Page reports on the weekend’s highlights.

We’re hugely grateful to the 34 guest speakers who played a key role in making the Conference such a success: Peter Buckie and Barbara Leal, David Callaghan, Steve Carson, Rosamond Clayton, Steve Collins, Pat Daly, Richard Digby, John Donald, Michael Donaldson, Richard Drucker, Manfred Eickhorst, Jane Fox, Elizabeth Goring, Kerry Gregory, Joanna Hardy, Alan Hodgkinson, Michael Inkpen, Tracy Jukes, Harry Levy, Ken Massow, Claire Mitchell, Shirley Mitchell, Vanessa Paterson, Michael Payne, Graham Price, Chris Simpson and Paula Grenney, Barry Sullivan and Andrée Richardson, John Watson, Joanna Whalley, Stephen Whittaker and Jason Williams. We’re also grateful for the generosity of our Platinum Sponsor Gem-A and Silver Sponsors AnchorCert, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March and System Eickhorst.

Finally, as I have been the IRV co-ordinator and conference organiser for 40 years (count them!) this year, I received a beautiful ruby and diamond pendant… plus a standing ovation!

The dates for the next Conference (same venue!) are Saturday 17th to Monday 19th September. Please be there as Loughborough 2016 will be my last – I’m planning early retirement at the end of that year.

WORKSHOP REPORTS

ROSAMOND CLAYTON – DIAMOND PRICE LISTS: ADJUSTING FOR VALUATION

STEVE COLLINS – HALLMARKS & MORE...

TRICK OR TREAT?

For the valuer and trader alike, diamond price lists are an essential and constantly evolving point of reference. However they must be used for jewellery valuations; they should be used in conjunction with other price guides and lists in order to obtain a modal value.

A qualified gemmologist and former Registered Valuer, Steve is currently head of Customer Services at The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office in London. Hallmarking, he explained, is one of the oldest forms of consumer protection, and this country is privileged to be able to trace statutes/laws back some 700 years regarding hallmarking. The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office is the oldest assay office in the UK. From the outset the objective was to be impartial, scrupulous and independent.

Steve discussed some of the important aspects regarding addition/alteration of items (which require re-submission to the Assay Office). For instance it is an offence to alter/remove or transpose a hallmark. He also mentioned the illegal use of counterfeit punches, and that it’s an offence to be in possession of such a punch.

The main motives for fakes and forgeries are financial – using base or substandard metal; avoiding hallmarking charges; increasing value or copying collectable items. Fakes can take many guises – including faux marks/punches, laser and cast marks. Also, overstamping an original hallmark is illegal. We saw examples of forgeries and fakes including soldered-on hallmarks, items stamped with fake marks and cutting in hallmarks and then plating to disguise the repair.

The presence of any ‘925’ stamp on goods, unless it forms part of a hallmark, actually means nothing!

We saw examples of forgeries and fakes including soldered-on hallmarks, items stamped with fake marks and cutting in hallmarks and then plating to disguise the repair.

Rapaport, while advantageous to the diamond trader for its accuracy and for the valuer as an expert witness in a courtroom scenario, is difficult to use when adjusting prices for a jewellery valuation. Since the beginning of October 2014, Rapaport discontinued listing diamonds with an EGL grading report, for example, concentrating primarily on GIA graded diamonds.

Both Rapaport and The GemGuide give prices for diamonds with a ‘triple X’ grade only; this refers to an excellent cut, excellent symmetry and excellent polish. The ‘triple X’ grade may pose a significant influence on the price difference between two F colour diamonds both with a VS2 clarity grade, which may be harder to explain to the potential customer choosing an engagement ring!

When handling an insurance valuation of a diamond whose cut grades are fair, it may be problematic using a price source for diamonds with an Excellent cut grade, as some insurers could consider this as ‘betterment’ in the event of a claim. A solution to this conundrum is having a conversation with both the client and the insurance company and perhaps aiming the replacement value at a diamond with Very Good cut grades.

Being aware of current market trends is of great importance when reading price guides. Diamond traders may be more up-to-date with demand on diamonds of a particular size, colour and clarity grade.

A case of delay at GIA in producing grading reports for diamonds of 0.50 carats recently, resulted in a backlog of diamonds waiting for certificates and, therefore, an increase in demand, which ultimately affects the price. The economic problems in China at the moment mean that they are importing fewer diamonds.

In the UK there may be a greater demand for diamonds of a G to H colour weighing between 0.60 and 0.80 carats than for a D colour diamond, weighing 1.00 carat, which is Internally Flawless. The potential customer for an engagement ring may not perceive an obvious difference between the two sizes of diamond and the price of a D colour diamond will not suit all budgets! Fluorescence has a significant bearing on the value and can reduce the price by as much as 25 per cent.

During the hands-on workshop we were able to inspect several items which Steve had brought along. Could we spot the difference between the genuine article and the myriad of forgeries/copies, fakes, fraudulent marks, and scams including plated items purporting to be ‘genuinely’ hallmarked?

In Steve’s own words, you want to be confident that you’re valuing “the real thing” and avoid expensive mistakes. This excellent workshop helped us to spot the scams, detect the dodgy items and combat the conmen who can easily catch you out, make you look foolish and ruin your reputation.

Jacqueline Sanders, IRV.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 21

ASSOCIATION NEWS

and his GemGuide pricing guide. The former is a tool aimed at assisting valuers and trade members with a reliable system to grade gemstones and in turn price them. It is based on ‘Munsell’ colour-grading charts – the same base on which the GIA forms its grading assessments.

Undoubtedly a diamond, which is accompanied by a GIA grading report may add five per cent to the value, while an EGL grading report may lead to a deduction in the value, this may also be the case in the absence of a grading report. As with all diamond reports, it is important to ensure that the details agree with the diamond being valued. A laser number on the girdle of the diamond will confirm the report number.

Valuers must always use their own judgement and speak out if they disagree with a grading report – it is, after all, an opinion!

Hannah McWhirter

RICHARD DRUCKER – GRADING AND PRICING COLOURED GEMS Returning to Loughborough for the third time, Richard Drucker GG, RMV and president of Gemworld International provided workshop sessions plus a 30-minute main presentation – a whirlwind tour of the gemstone pricing market. His workshop was based around the repeatable learning system he co-founded – his colour-grading system ‘World of Color’

22 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

The session provided coloured stones for examination and hand-outs for completion showing step-by-step sections on ways to structure arriving at pricing levels for gemstones, taking into consideration colour, clarity, finish, cut, etc. We worked through a wide selection of gemstones to fully understand the format. Having deducted or added scores to each stone based on the above factors, you then arrive at a scoring system for the gemstone, which is referenced to the GemGuide’s pricing table.

Voila… a price per carat based on your facts of assessing the gemstone and clear and precise notes.

The sessions were well-executed, professional and self-explanatory. As with all Richard’s sessions his workshop was interactive, educational and of great interest to our valuing world. This is a tool I will be investing in – it’s a no brainer for our industry and we should embrace it as a means of consistency and unity.

What makes Richard stand out is his thoroughness in preparing relevant information for the target audience and he never fails to grab my attention and keep it. The King of Colour’s sessions are never long enough! I’m extremely grateful for his passing on of knowledge, industry skills and passion.

Catherine Parsons, independent valuer.

Part Two of the Loughborough workshop and presentation reports will appear in the next issue of The Jeweller.

FOCUS ON EDUCATION

BRANSOM AWARD WINNERS Congratulations go to our Bransom Award winners for July and August

Sophia Carter The July award winner is Sophia Carter from Gordon Rowe Jewellers. A relative newcomer to the industry, she has worked in the Torquay store for just 18 months.

Her arrival there was almost an accident: “I was working in retail before and I happened to serve David and Regina Rowe. They were so happy with my customer service, they invited me for an interview,” she explains.

“I have always been creative, but have never found a career that has suited me, until working at the jewellers. Working with jewellery not only feeds my creativity, but also keeps me on my toes. There’s always something to learn or that surprises me and rarely a dull moment. I feel that I have found my calling in life,” she adds.

“I am very proud to have won the award and am so grateful to Mr and Mrs Rowe for giving me such an amazing opportunity.

This truly will shape my career and life. I can honestly say I enjoyed the entire JET 1 course, even parts that were a little more difficult than others. I used most of the recommended reads and found the Retail Jeweller’s Guide especially useful, alongside Bradbury’s hallmark books. I also found a wealth of knowledge while working in the store. Doing JET 1 has already helped me so much – learning more about the product I am selling. It has given me an appreciation for all aspects of jewellery.”

Sophia’s tutor, Anne Kings, is impressed: “Sophia clearly wants to learn as much as she can to progress in her career. Her assignment work was always

Iga Saladiak This August’s Bransom winner is Iga Saladiak, who works for H Samuel.

While she has been working in retail for nine years, her jewellery journey began just over a year ago.

“I always enjoyed working with people and selling products you are passionate about and this was the right step to take. Working in a jewellers is like working in a treasure chest full of amazing, unique pieces and no two days are the same. The shopping experience you create and the knowledge you share changes the rest of someone’s life, or makes their day perfect. Taking part and sharing in such happy moments is priceless.”

Winning the Bransom Award was “a shock”, leaving Iga “absolutely speechless and overwhelmed.

It was a pleasure to be able to do JET 1 and to win the Award, which I did not expect at all, made me

punctual, and certainly very good, especially those answers which reflected her ability to give sound product knowledge and advice to her customers.

She always took notice, and addressed them in future assignments, which improved all the time.”

Sophia’s moderator added: “Sophia provided good solid coverage of the diamond grading system and a full explanation of the four Cs. She also identified the keywords and phrases to use with a potential client during the selling of a diamond set item, taking care not to confuse them with too much technical information.

“Several paragraphs were devoted to the explanation and practice of watching the body language during the sale, and

ring, but the various ring styles and settings are vast and it can be overwhelming trying to determine what the lady will love. So it’s great to have the knowledge to help find exactly what your customer is looking for and exceed their expectations by sharing your passion and knowledge, making them confident about the purchase.

very proud. It’s a great feeling when you put your heart into a project you love doing anyway, and it’s appreciated and recognised.

“I loved all of it – every part of JET is different and gives you important knowledge to sell jewellery with confidence,” she said. “However, the most useful part was diamonds, due to a high demand for them. Many customers are ready to pop the question and have begun their secret search for the perfect engagement

“JET 1 will definitely advance your career in the jewellery industry, showcase your professionalism and improve your reputation with fine jewellery customers.

High standards and knowledge are particularly important in the jewellery field. The rapidly changing nature of the industry and the level of customer trust that is demanded, require that we all strive to meet these standards and JET 1 will help you reach that.”

Michelle McCormick, Iga’s tutor, commented: “Iga’s work has been a

listening for the ‘buying signals’ from the client. Sophia took care to work towards the closing of the sale, and the ‘congratulations’ part of the transaction.

Excellent coverage was given to the repair/restoration of the Victorian diamond ring; Sophia displays a mature understanding of customer care skills. Several options were offered to the client relating to the use of the diamonds in the ring, including the remodelling of the item.

I’m sure she will enjoy moving on to the next stage of her studies.”

pleasure to mark. She has shown commitment by completing ahead of timetable and giving her best.

The assignments are designed to demonstrate professionalism and expertise in sales, customer care and product knowledge; Iga has certainly achieved this and I’m sure that she must be an asset to her company.”

Iga’s moderator Eddie Stanley added: “This student has provided a comprehensive coverage to each section. Beauty and the value of the ruby were explained in a very clear, positive way – a very interesting read. Iga must have carried out thorough research into the physical and optical properties of the gemstone. The care of the ruby was particularly well explained. A worthy winner.”

The Education Department also congratulates Iga and Sophia for their splendid work and wishes them all the best in the future.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 23

BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY

SAFERGEMS – update – Lee Henderson of SaferGems, the initiative established to tackle crime against the jewellery industry, reports on recent activity – and successes.

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hankfully, SaferGems continues to see a quiet period with regards robberies against the industry, but a small number of recent attacks on Asian jewellers in Greater Manchester and London present something we need to keep a very close watch on.

Asian gold remains a very high commodity for criminals.

success story involves the arrest of two men who were attempting to sell fake Perth Mint, one-ounce gold ingots to jewellers across the UK. Following a number of reports and excellent CCTV images from members across the South West region, SaferGems was able to not only prevent further offences but also notify Devon & Cornwall Police of the men’s movements.

This partnership between SaferGems, its members and police A CCTV image of one of the gold ingot fraudsters.

August was a quiet month on all fronts of crime, but September seemed to be bucking the trend with an increase in incidents – in particular jewellers are reporting distraction/sleight of hand and ‘snatch thefts’. Although we have seen a reduction in thefts involving organised gangs from Eastern Europe.

It’s important to state that recent sleight of hand/distraction thefts in the South West, North East and Scotland should act as a warning to members that these highly professional thieves pose a significant threat; they will not just go away.

Members are reminded to be extremely vigilant when it comes to anyone who enters their store in open possession of large quantities of cash – this is a common method used by distraction/sleight of hand offenders.

On most occasions the culprit(s) will request items to be boxed, only to use sleight of hand to pick the goods out of their boxes and conceal them in the cash. Some will also substitute items for fakes.

24 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

And there’s more good news.

On 6th May 2015, the Edinburgh City division of Police Scotland was made aware, via SaferGems, that a group of ‘travelling fraudsters’ was within Edinburgh.

Police were made aware that the group had carried out offences at jewellery stores within the city.

Members of the group were also seen using an orange Mercedes.

As a result of this information, Police attended the scene and arrested two Romanian men, aged 27 and 24 years.

Both men were found to be in possession of numerous bankcards, receipts and suspected fraudulently-obtained items. On examining the bankcards, Police have confirmed that eight of the cards in their possession were cloned cards. Police have also identified multiple locations where six of these cloned cards have been used to obtain high value items.

Both men have been charged with 15 offences and it is suspected that further offences will be levelled as the investigation continues. The Mercedes, which contained numerous fraudulently purchased items and cloned cards, was also recovered nearby and has been seized by police.

To date in 2015, SaferGems has assisted police with 14 arrests and convictions.

Many well-known faces continue to reappear across the UK but the SaferGems team is now able to identify the majority of them and therefore has been able to assist police with a number of positive identifications.

To date in 2015, SaferGems has assisted police with 14 arrests and convictions. The most recent

resulted in the two men being arrested in possession of 21 fake ingots and approximately £3,500 cash. They have subsequently been charged with fraud and money laundering offences.

The Devon & Cornwall Police testimonial states: “It’s sufficient to advise that SaferGems was instrumental in focusing police activity. By collating national offences/incidents and circulating it to our force, it lead to the early arrest and identification of offenders, plus at the same time deterring potential offences and protecting several businesses from fraud…”

It is strongly believed that the suspects are part of a wider organised crime group comprising of at least seven individuals and efforts are ongoing to trace the other members.

In a statement to SaferGems, Police Scotland said: “It is safe to say that it is highly unlikely that these offenders would have been caught if it were not for your initial bulletin given the nature of their fraudulent activity…”

Encouragingly, SaferGems has also received an influx of enquiries from non-members asking to join the highly successful SaferGems scheme. These potential new members have been directed to the membership team at the NAJ who will offer them further details.

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FEATURE

A glimpse into

THE FUTURE The Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre (JIIC ) in Birmingham staged a Technology Day in August to showcase the very latest in jewellery-making tools and machinery. Mary Brittain was there.

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he JIIC, which is part of the School of Jewellery at Birmingham City University, has been assisting the jewellery community to get to grips with new technological developments since its formation in 1997. It is a service that has long been embraced by the trade and some 80 delegates signed in for the morning’s presentations, with many participating companies experiencing serious enquiries about their new products.

The list of attendees certainly reads like a ‘Who’s Who’ in the jewellery industry with delegates from big name businesses such as Cartier, Stephen Webster, Charles Green and Fattorini, to name but a few, taking part. Even the BBC’s technology correspondent was present.

With over 20 exhibitors showing everything from CAD packages to engraving machines there was plenty on view. But what was really new?

Delcam’s ‘Ember DLP SLA 3D printer’, the company’s first piece of manufacturing hardware, was one product making its debut. Although designed to work primarily with the company’s own JewelSmith software, this desk-top sized machine is compatible with most of the major CAD design programs used by jewellers. It offers a 64 x 40mm build platform and can create resin prototypes in various resolutions.

Significantly, with a total price of £7,500 (£4,000 for the printer and £3,500 for the software) it brings high resolution 3D printing within the grasp of a much wider audience than was previously the case.

At the opposite end of the investment scale is the EOS MO80 gold sintering machine, being sold by Cooksongold. With a price tag of around £200,000 this revolutionary technology uses specially developed 18ct gold powders, which are now available in yellow, white and red gold, to laser sinter jewellery directly from CAD files without the need for any prototyping. Cooksongold is still working on the development of platinum, ruthenium and sterling silver powders.

Cooksongold

This machine, as the company’s technical director Anthony Staniorski explained to me, opens up a number of exciting design possibilities and the chance to create pieces previously too time-consuming or too difficult to achieve by other production methods. Designs can be selectively hollow and by stopping the layering process midway through, can be made to incorporate loose gemstones, pearls or objects such as Victorian charms within a metal frame. Cleaning and finishing the sintered pieces is no more time consuming, Staniorski says, than cleaning a casting.

An early purchaser is Knights Fine Jewellery of Stratford-upon-Avon, which took delivery of its machine in August. Director, Steven Tolley, believes this will help his business to deliver bespoke pieces more quickly. “We’re in a tourist area and many visitors are only here for a few days; this will allow us to create rings from scratch in just a couple of days,” he told me.

Tolley will also use the machine (which he says can build up to 30 or 40 simple solitaire rings, and up to 20 more complex designs in one session), to service his wholesale business. He is not particularly interested in its potential to create outré designs. “The lower end of the jewellery market is completely flat. Things have gone from very cheap to very expensive and the high end is where the business is at, and that does involve bespoke. However our business is 70 percent wholesale and we intend to get this machine running every day,” he stated.

One thing which all jewellers require, however their jewellery is made, is good finishing tools and Suttons ‘Ceramic Pencils’, also on show for the first time at this event, offer a new take on an age old process.

These tools, which cost just £20, look exactly like propelling pencils and contain a tubular ceramic file, which operates just as the lead in a pencil. The super-strong, super thin ceramic ‘lead’ allows the user to access previously hard-to-reach areas to remove casting marks and other blemishes.

Other prominent exhibitors at the exhibition were Fintek, Europac, Gemvision UK, GRS, SolidScape and Rofin. Full details of all those who took part together with the presentations made on the day can be found at www.precious-project.co.uk Speaking after the event JIIC manager Gay Penfold said: “Jewellery technology and especially additive manufacturing is developing very fast. All the companies involved are making rapid improvements and direct metal sintering now offers amazing bespoke design opportunities and the chance for makers to create added value.

This shouldn’t however be viewed as something ‘instead of’ – it is very much ‘as well as’ and is simply another valuable tool in the ever expanding modern jeweller’s tool box.”

26 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

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The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005

The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like-minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.

“

The EDF not only helped me deal with the here and now, but made me look more to the future.

EDF member

”

For an annual subscription of £850 you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the EDF Members via: • a Q&A forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance on products, policy, or suppliers. You ask the question and the members answer, quite often by return • a new flash service, where relevant business and industry articles are emailed to your inbox • a shared monthly performance report that enables you to benchmark yourself against other retail jewellery businesses • educational store visits which allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing in their stores • three regional group meetings a year giving you the opportunity to discuss in detail the issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face, as well as develop new business skills • the opportunity to attend the annual Oxford Congress when members meet to make new contacts and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields

YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW… In difficult times growth is hard to achieve and it is necessary to change not only the way you think but the way you behave. It’s the ideal time to try something new… after all you don’t know what you don’t know.

How else will you find out what growth your business can actually deliver, without taking a different approach?

As Henry Ford is alleged to have once said: “If you always do what you’ve always done, you will always get what you’ve always got.”

The world is changing and as business owners you have a responsibility to learn, change and adapt to secure the future of your business through continued growth.

As Peter Schofield did once say: “In some market sectors you can’t just continue to do today’s job using yesterday’s methods and still hope to be in business tomorrow.”

The EDF members benefit from sharing their experience, expertise and ideas with one another, which enables them to grow their businesses.

Join them and see your business grow too!

If you would like any further information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer on 020 7613 4445, email her at amanda.white@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122.

BUSINESS SUPPORT: INSURANCE

How do jewellery valuations help with claim settlements?

We spoke to John Watson, the Personal Lines director at insurance brokers TH March, who gave a workshop at the recent IRV Loughborough Conference, and he offered this explanation.

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e have been looking after the personal jewellery insurance needs of our retail jewellers’ customers since 1887 and realised long ago that the secret to a speedy and satisfactory outcome to any claim following the loss of an item of jewellery is a professional valuation.

Not obtaining a good quality, professional valuation at the time your customers take out an insurance, or add a new item to an existing insurance, is folly.

Even if their insurer says they do not need a valuation when they are adding the item, make sure you recommend they get one, and send it in to their insurers.

This way if they have any queries about the item they can raise them at the time the item is added, not after it has been lost.

A good example of the importance of a valuation at the time cover is taken out would be an item you would normally value on a SHRV basis. You need to recommend your client speaks to their insurers to see how they would replace such an item. As an example of the importance of

this, only a few weeks ago I came across a policy offering this basis of settlement for watches: • If bought new – NRV • If bought second hand – SHRV • If inherited, client can choose 1 or 2 This highlights the importance of policyholders checking with their insurer to ascertain how they would settle a claim for jewellery and watches. You should also bear in mind that in some cases an NRV valuation would be detrimental to their interests when replacing the item and this should be made clear to your client.

… the policy should never be measured by how cheap it is, how glossy the literature is or how little information is needed…

We ask for a supporting valuation for every item of jewellery valued at £1,000 or above. We do get a few negative comments along the lines of: “No one else

asks for a valuation” but once we explain the relevance of having a valuation and the effect it will have on a claim, most are happy.

The reason we do it is to ensure we know what we are insuring, and the replacement cost, to speed up the claims process.

How does this help the claims process? In basic terms a claims handler asks three questions: 1. Is the item covered?

2. How much will it cost to replace?

3. Where are we going to replace it?

Our approach means that we only have to consider ‘number one’, which is easy for us as we understand insurance and the cover provided; ‘number two’ which has already been sorted out, there is no post-loss validation needed and the replacement cost is as per the valuation we have, which has also given us the answer to ‘number three’ – where will it be replaced? As a result of this we are able to settle genuine jewellery claims far quicker than might otherwise have been the case.

Without a valuation an insurer will have no idea what it is they are insuring and will have to start their underwriting process after a loss, rather than when they actually agree to cover the item, to establish what the item is and how much they think it will cost to replace.

We survey every jewellery claim we settle and our satisfaction rate over the last year stands at 98.5 percent. I guarantee it would be a lot lower if we did not have a valuation upfront. That is why we will persist and continue to ask for valuations upfront.

One final point – when insuring a piece of personal jewellery, the policy should never be measured by how cheap it is, how glossy the literature is or how little information is needed to organise it; it is the quality of the cover and the way a claim is dealt with that is important. Stress to your customers that they should speak to their insurers and ask them how they would settle a claim for the loss of an item of jewellery, particularly if they have an older or bespoke handmade item. If they are not happy, with the response, they look for an insurer who would match their expectations.

To help jewellers explain the need for valuations to their customers, we recently produced an animated film that explains the whole process.

To view it please visit: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=KyMqh4_gVNc

Screen captures from the TH March film explaining how the valuation process works.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 29

picks...

I J L — A S PA R K L I N G S U C C E S S !

Given that this was the 60th anniversary of IJL, organisers, exhibitors and visitors to the show were clearly hoping for a bumper event. They weren’t disappointed – positivity was in abundance! Our over-view of the event’s highlights, plus a selection of news and new collections from aisles, gives a flavour of the show.

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am Willoughby, event director, commented: “We are delighted with the results achieved at IJL’s Diamond Jubilee Edition and would like to thank everyone involved in making this year’s event such a resounding success. IJL just seems to get better and better each year. Our exhibitors have praised the great location, quality buyers and a superb environment in which to conduct business, resulting in an increase in our rebooking figures for 2016.”

The event set a number of new records. These ranged from a record 155 new exhibitors (80 per cent of which were in fine and designer jewellery) to positive growth in Diamond Club members. Early records show there was a five per cent increase in visitors, from over 40 countries, including UAE, Germany, France, Switzerland, South America, Italy and Ireland.

The show also presented numerous opportunities to say ‘congratulations’ to designers and brands – invariably accompanied by a glass or two of fizz. For instance Charlotte Verity was the winner of TH March’s annual ‘Make Your Mark’ competition for emerging designer-makers, for

Three of the High Street by Design winners with NAJ chairman Andrew Hinds and judges

discover new talent and in particular Ellie Air was chosen as the lucky recipient of the Adorn Insight Award, receiving a year’s subscription to the jewellery forecaster’s trend reports as well as bespoke mentoring. And during a drinks reception on the first evening, the winners of the various categories in the Editor’s Choice exhibitor competition (Sarah Ho, Andrew Geoghegan, Fei Liu, Mirka Janeckova, Dower & Hall and Simone Cesari) were toasted with yet more Champagne.

The four winners of F Hinds’ High Street By Design 2015 competition might have been presented with their prizes in the English Tea Room… but that didn’t prevent the fizz from flowing. Adeen Naseer and Rebecca Clarvis won the under 12 and 12-18 categories

IJL’s Sam Willoughby and Claire Adler with Editor’s Choice recipient Andrew Geoghegan

respectively, while Sally Costen was the Student Designer winner and Silvia Tjahyadi’s creation won the Current Jewellery Designer category.

To gauge the success of the show overall, we spoke to a handful of exhibitors about their experience and what buyers were particularly looking at.

NAJ CEO Michael Rawlinson with ‘I Do’ winner Jessica Mead

her ‘Aventurine Green Bubble Multilink Necklace’. Meanwhile, Jessica Mead was presented with her award for winning the Fairtrade ‘I Do’ competition with her design for a ring, which was then manufactured in Fairtrade gold by Hockley Mint.

TH March’s Mark Smith with Make Your Mark winner Charlotte Verity

30 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

The KickStart group, as a whole (and as ever), received much interest from visitors keen to

Adorn Insight’s Maia Adams and Juliet Hutton-Squire, Ellie Air, the NAJ’s Lindsey Straughton and consulant Aldyth Crowther

One stand that seemed to have a constant throng mobbing it was Connoisseurs Jewellery Care. “Retailers had the chance to sample and see the new products in action as well as see and feel the packaging,” says Philip Goodman. “Many know this is a must have for Christmas and want to make sure they have sufficient stock, the Sonic Brush is very affordable (£39.99 RRP, included batteries and two cleaning formulas). The beauty for the retailer is the customer can buy refills and this product is more accessible to use… rather than the traditional ultra-sonic.

So a great add-on sale product, like the Diamond Dazzle Stik.”

s

IJL newbie, Biiju used the show to introduce the collection to the wholesale trade. Designer and founder Joanna Boyen reports that her colourful Explosion Rings proved popular, as did her grey diamond Snowflake earrings and Silk Web pendant. “The decision to exhibit at IJL was definitely the right one. I’m delighted with the positive response I’ve had and it’s opened up some interesting opportunities that I’m excited about. As a first time exhibitor it’s a very intense experience; there’s so much to absorb and you’re constantly meeting new people,” she said.

Making its debut at IJL, this service provides a platform to streamline workflow between companies and jewellery designers by connecting CAD designs, stones, 3D printers and findings with manufacturing capabilities. It also operates a social platform where jewellers can share jewellery stories, news and advice. Founder Ryan Edkins reported that the service signed up more than 700 new users at the show, covering a variety of industry sectors from retailers to CAD designers and designer-makers.

AUGUSTINE JEWELS

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CADFOLIO

Positioned in the designer section in the gallery, Alexandra Robson of Augustine Jewels also had a good show, with retailers responding positively to the new collection. As ever, coloured gemstones are a key focus, and this season the inspiration is New England in Fall with featured stones including rose quartz, smoky quartz and green prasiolite set in sterling silver.

LAPARRA

FERVOR MONTREAL

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“This year’s IJL was one of the best in recent memory. Footfall seemed lower but the quality of stores visiting seemed to befit the surroundings at Olympia. For us at Fervor Montreal we couldn’t have asked for a better response, taking on new customers and promoting our brand to the European domestic market for the first time. I was overwhelmed by how much people warmed to our collections especially our Juliette, Chloe and Nina ranges in sterling silver, which at times seemed the talk of the show with people coming to view it specially. Our ever-popular Bella Bangles and the exclusive launch at IJL of our Bella Rings set with Swarovski Elements also gained huge recognition. We are very much looking forward to the year ahead and will look back on IJL as the perfect springboard to have launched from.”

Steve Austin, sales and marketing manager

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BIIJU

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CONNOISSEURS JEWELLERY CARE

“IJL was stunning! I didn’t expect to sell as much as I did… well, I didn’t expect to sell at all!” says KickStarter Laura Parra, whose bangles and rings and 9 carat gold unique pieces were the best sellers. Colourful and organic in feel, LaParra jewellery is inspired

by Laura’s Spanish background – miniature sculptures with gemstones set at random angles being a signature look.

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ULRIKKE VOGT

“Six years ago I did my first IJL with KickStart” comments Vogt.

“It was great being back at the show, seeing old customers and friends. Although I have moved to Norway and been away from the market the last couple of years, it feels like yesterday that I left. Customers remembered me and my jewellery, and placed new orders as they loved my two new collections. I also got several new customers and lots of complimentary words about my ‘Bud Floret’ and ‘Pearly’ collections. Although the show was a bit quiet at times I had a good experience.”

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UNIQUE

“We had a really good show and in particular the Sunday was very busy – one of the busiest we’ve ever had at IJL. The rebranding to Unique & Co. alongside new showcases and POS material, which helped to display our collections even more prominently, boosted sales and was received very positively by customers. In particular our Unique Men’s collection was very popular, but also the new designs of our women’s leather bracelets. We had very good feedback for the new Unique silver collection, which is going in a slightly different direction with bigger pieces, a more polished finish, using more CZ stones and rose gold plating and is, in general, more fashion oriented.” Daniel Ozel

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“The show was great, it really exceeded our expectations and we’re set for a very busy few months leading up to Christmas. Our most popular pieces were the rose gold pendant and our new rings (particularly the midi rings). We received numerous comments on the great finish and quality. Other styles that generated a lot of interest were our Wanderlust ring in sterling silver – the response blew us away – and our rose gold pendants, particularly the heart-shaped ‘Say It With Love’ and the ones with charms, the ‘Wanderlust’ and the ‘Eternity’ pendants. There were also a lot of comments on how lovely the soft grey palette of our collection was, with the natural grey suede and genuine freshwater pearls.” Victoria Miller, Miglio

ENDLESS JEWELRY

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MIGLIO

Taking prime position at the front of the Boulevard, Endless also had a successful show, taking solid orders for its new collection of leather bracelets and its new premium design – a silver charm in the Jennifer Lopez collection. “There were also very positive reactions about our recent partnership with Clogau, which is now leading the distribution of Endless in the UK market,” explained UK brand director Mark Faulkner.

GECKO

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“We had a good show all round. The quantity of customers that we were visited by was down on last year, but the quality was high,” commented sales director Richard Cox. “We met a good mix of independents and major accounts, which resulted in written business that was approximately 20 per cent up on last year.” Gecko’s bestselling collection was Elements Gold, with 9ct yellow and rose gold designs doing particularly well. The wide range of styles in the men’s Fred Bennett range also went down well, with a focus by many retailers on the 925 silver pieces. A favourite for Christmas order was the Fiorelli silver range, with buyers shopping for mixed metals.

H AZEEM

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“Every year at IJL we build upon our previous successes and this year we had quite a lot of interest from a diverse range of large retailers, independent jewellers and online boutiques.

We also had a lot of interest via social media – businesses connected with us online and then in person. It was an interesting way for us to connect with new clients. We launched three new additions to our popular Elara collection and found that they were very well received! They included a peacock blue druzy pendant/ matching studs and also black druzy hoops. Given the increasing popularity in exotic gemstone jewellery, hand set in sterling silver, it’s no surprise that our Elara collection has been very successful. A lot of buyers are looking for affordable luxury.”

Hinna Azeem

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ANDREW GEOGHEGAN

“After a two year break from IJL we came back stronger than ever – rebranded, favoured by celebs and with some incredible new pieces. The response to our return was excellent – new accounts, historical accounts coming back, established accounts, who were all totally positive about where we are taking the brand and our support to them. The ‘Chocolate Box’ rings, of which we had the entire family, were much admired but it was the ‘Cannele Delire’ – our show-stopping Paraiba ring which seemed to take centre stage. It even brought a tear to the eye of one smitten retailer! All I would say about IJL next year is that it needs to go back to four days as we felt that there wasn’t enough time to see everyone.”

Andrew Geoghegan

KASSANDRA GORDON

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Hackney-based Kassandra included a Fairtrade gold extension to her first collection, ‘Fly Me to Jupiter’. “It’s important for me to align my business with my beliefs, even though it’s hard. I don’t think I’m alone in this. I think my generation in general believes that ethical matters should be core considerations in business. It doesn’t make me better than anyone else but it does make me more authentic to myself,” she explains. “IJL was my first trade show and it was a great experience. I spoke to press and buyers. Everyone in the New Designer stand was very supportive and created a good atmosphere. I got to meet lots of people at IJL and feel more connected in the industry.”

SILVER SINNER

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“This has been our first time as exhibitors at IJL show, an event that we believe is a reference of prestige and trends in jewellery around the word. We are very proud of the presentation we did of the brand and happy with the interesting contacts we made with people from UK and other countries like Greece, Italy and Lithuania. We understand that to get a place in the UK market is going to be hard work – but only difficult things are interesting, and we are lovers of British culture.

See you all next year – will be back to IJL!” Carlos Gonzales

ANNE KLEIN

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“IJL went very well for us; it’s an opportunity for us to show our upcoming collections to our existing cutomers and of course to open new accounts as well. Our Divotra necklace is still the best seller for us, with retailers coming back and re-ordering the whole range, and our Anansi collection, which we have expanded for next season, is a real showstopper. Of course, our more classic collections and everyday wear pieces are selling very well, as the retail price points are around the £100 mark.” Vinay Soudakar, CEO

Successful first-time exhibitor Anne Klein saw existing retailers adding to their current ranges, with the majority discussing expansion plans for the coming months and over 10 new retailers were brought into the fold.

Teresa Timberlake, director at TLKE commented: “IJL was an exciting event for us, and we’re thrilled to have picked up a number of new stores.

The brand has an extremely strong international presence, and I think this is a pull for our UK buyers. It was a brilliant opportunity for the watch and jewellery markets to cross over and view the collections side by side. We often find that when a retailer starts stocking the watches they find a place for the jewellery, and vice versa.”

ILENE STEELE

IJL went very well for this particular KickStarter, her large stacking rings definitely being of the most interest. “Several jewellers were interested in buying them for themselves, which was flattering,” she says. “I have already been paid in full for one order of various blackened and silver stacking rings and a few pairs of post earrings and another buyer has been in touch, also interested in the stacking rings, in silver and 9ct gold. The trend seemed to be away from plating.”

MIRKA JANECKOVA “I was very happy with the show, being a KickStarter was great and I would recommend it to all new designers. The highlight for me was receiving an Editors Choice Award (The Most Innovative Collection) and I think it helped my work stand out a bit more. I got a lot of interest in my porcelain brooches, people were really attracted to the combination of unusual material and shapes. But the best seller was definitely the Silver Coral Cocktail Ring. I get interest mainly from smaller retailers, often from seaside areas.” Mirka Janeckova

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BYOS

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Showing for the first time at IJL, #beyourownsuccess by Melissa Curry combines delicate, fine jewellery with positive messaging and narrative. Launched with Virgin this month, the fine, pink gold chain bracelets with gold bullion-inspired bar, are owned by the likes of Michelle Obama, Oprah, Arianna Huffington and Bobbi Brown. The ‘Bar of Success’ was joined at IJL with other, new pieces, including a protective gold locket built around a pearl, which proved one of the most popular pieces at the show.

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ANAKAO

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SIF JAKOBS

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Located for the first time on the Central Boulevard, the Danish fashion jewellery brand welcomed “great feedback” from existing retailers as well as potential new clients. “I’m confident that we are now ‘turning the corner’ in UK & Ireland,” says Sif Jakobs. “Our new Fucino collection was one of the most popular; it is elegant and classic. Also, our newest collection of ‘neckrings’ was surprisingly popular. I was quite excited to present this category, as the neckring is completely new to our jewellery portfolio.”

DIAMOND INTELLIGENCE

DIAMOND MARKET REPORT The diamond markets are weak as the Chinese economy slows, and the international marketing struggles as a result, explains David Brough.

T

he global diamond markets are weak and set to remain subdued for some time, pressured by an economic slowdown in China, a protracted recovery in the United States, and severe competition in international marketing. According to the latest data from the Rapaport Group, diamond prices fell in July as market sentiment slumped to levels not seen since the 2008 downturn.

The slowing of growth of the world’s second largest economy, China, has depressed Chinese demand for commodities including diamonds. In addition, a long drawn out recovery of the U.S. economy, has pressured demand for diamonds there too. Dealers spoke of disappointing demand for diamonds at the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) in Mumbai in early August, reinforcing low expectations for diamond demand at the next big international trade event, the Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Fair, which took place in late September.

Manufacturers have rejected large quantities of rough diamond supply as trading and manufacturing activity plummeted and financial margins were squeezed. Rough prices are unsustainable due to a significant gap between rough and polished prices, and are likely to fall as sightholders – manufacturers who buy rough from De Beers – prepared to refuse unprofitable rough diamond supplies again, Rapaport said.

The RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI™) for one-carat laboratory-graded diamonds fell 2.5 percent during July. RAPI for 0.30-carat diamonds declined 6.3 percent and RAPI for 0.50-carat diamonds dropped 4.7 percent.

Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), told The Jeweller that the main challenges facing the industry were falling profitability, declining bank credit, liquidity problems, and cases of overgrading of diamonds.

Polished

“The middle of the pipeline, the manufacturing sector, is facing very difficult conditions: rough is very expensive and the price of polished goods is not rising to make it commercially viable to manufacture,” Blom said.

“The banking sector is not providing the level of credit that our industry absolutely needs in order to be able to operate.”

Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses

Blom also spoke of great challenges ahead in the international marketing of diamonds. “Unfortunately, the diamond industry has fallen behind regarding international marketing, or generic promotion,” he explained. “Following De Beers’ decision to stop its generic promotion programme a number of years ago, the global industry and its constituent parts have failed to put together a programme of generic marketing.”

The World Diamond Mark, a programme supported by the WFDB to boost consumer demand for diamond jewellery, is the latest initiative to promote diamonds globally. However, demand for diamonds by today’s younger consumers cannot be taken for granted.

“Regarding competition from alternative lifestyle products, such as smartphones and technology, there can be little doubt that the diamond jewellery industry has a lot of work to do to make our products appeal to the younger generation of buyers, the so-called Millennials,” Blom said. “I have never heard of a long line of young people waiting all night to buy an item of diamond jewellery as they do with the latest versions of iPhones, iPads and other such products.”

Diamantaires say they cannot use the same marketing methods as in the past because Millennials have a different way of looking at the world. They cannot necessarily be reached by traditional media, but rather by different social media, so marketing to them requires a great deal of research and sophistication, and a new way of thinking for the diamond jewellery industry. The latest challenge to the diamond industry comes from increasing demand for labgrown diamonds, which currently represent a fraction of the $80 billion global diamond market. Unlike imitation diamonds such as cubic zirconia, stones that are ‘grown’ in labs have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup as the real thing.

“We have no problem with these stones (lab-grown diamonds) as long as there is clear disclosure,” Blom said. “Will someone want to buy a diamond that is grown in a sterile lab as part of a mass production process, or go for a diamond that has been created entirely by the forces of nature in the depths of the earth that has taken millions of years to reach the consumer and which provides employment and a livelihood for millions of people in some of the poorest areas of the world? I personally believe the appeal of the latter is greater!”

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 35

DIAMOND FEATURE

BEAUTY ...and the

BEASTS? IT JUST AIN’T NATURAL It’s counterintuitive, but I feel compelled to open this report with the subject of synthetics/ lab-grown diamonds. While researching diamond features previously, I’ve sought opinions on this issue… generally with few or dismissive responses. Not so this time around.

“They’ve become a reality,” says Harry Levy, president of the London Diamond Bourse, “and they’re virtually impossible to differentiate from natural diamonds, even by dealers.

You need highly technical equipment… and someone who understands how to use it. There are many relatively easy-to-use scanning machines that identify the majority of natural diamonds

Breuning

36 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

Anita-Sondore

Certificates, synthetics, sourcing and squeezed margins – there’s more going on currently with diamonds and diamond jewellery than just sparkle, shapes and slight inclusions, as Belinda Morris discovered.

– differentiating them from ‘don’t know’, which could mean modified in some way,” he adds.

Cartier and De Beers will maintain and guarantee the provenance of stones from rough.”

“That’s the present situation and, given that, stones that are half a carat and upwards are sent to labs for grading, which should pick up synthetics. The problems arise with small stones for clusters and pavé – when loose it’s nigh-on impossible to detect them. The big companies, like

Ehud Laniado, industry expert and founder of diamond pricing consultancy Mercury Diamond, is in no doubt that synthetics are here to stay. “The issue of lab-grown diamonds is the most important issue the diamond industry needs to deal with and the sooner the better,” he states.

“The issue of labgrown diamonds is the most important issue the diamond industry needs to deal with…”

“There is a need at least for a strict enforcement, by the industry, of the regulations which are currently in place, including with respect to the change of their name – that by itself might create confusion. I believe that regulation of this industry, as was done with conflict diamonds, is what is required. Otherwise, the potential penetration of unreported rough and polished diamonds into the natural diamond supply chain will have an adverse effect on the credibility of the industry.

Most importantly, consumers might find themselves misled, intentionally or unintentionally, by purchasing lab-grown diamonds instead of natural diamonds,” he adds.

“I do believe that there is room for lab-grown diamonds. They can never replace the value and rarity of a natural diamond, but they might become a parallel market, desired for their beauty.

There are many positive aspects to this industry, such as the technological progress, the price, the introduction of new markets, and the exposure of potential customers to jewellery in general, which might create a positive effect on the consumption of natural diamonds.

Gemex

DIAMOND FEATURE

Emdico

“This is not an attack on the labgrown diamond industry, per se,” Laniardo insists, “but rather on the risk embedded in the product, so long as the enforcement of the existing regulation is very weak, if existent at all. I believe these changes need to be initiated by the lab-grown gem industry, if only to retain their good name.”

With vertical operations the chances of synthetics finding their way into the supply chain are obviously reduced. “We work with a fully-traceable diamond which means it is mined, cut, polished and graded in Canada so we know every step our diamond has travelled,” explains Judith Lockwood, MD of Arctic Circle Diamonds. The same applies to Forevermark, where every diamond is from an approved mining source, its movements tracked and recorded through the cutting and polishing process.

Domino

Of course, the choice of whether or not to work with or sell lab-grown stones is a matter of just that… choice. And there are certainly those who do give them serious consideration. “We have some customers who have asked us to use lab-created diamonds because they are scientists and prefer this idea, and a few who want them for other reasons.

Most though prefer the romance of a natural stone,” says Harriet Kesall of Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design.

“I’m not a fan of synthetic stones of any kind – why try to be something you aren’t,” says Julie Richter of Diamond Designs, distributor of Norman Silverman Diamonds. ”I am concerned that there are people out there who will try to sell them as natural and that is extremely unethical.

Eventually it comes to the surface and its difficult to track the person that actually sold the synthetic as a natural in the first place.”

“But lab-created diamonds will become popular for self purchase jewellery, I am certain.”

“I have considered using them in my work, however I feel that it compromises the idea of finding unique stones to work with, as the synthetic stones will all be the same,” adds designer Alexis Dove. “This goes against my design ethic for precious jewellery and also what I find beautiful and inspiring.” ➥

C6 by Anne Cohen

“It’s possible that a customer may buy a synthetic because they believe this is the only way they can guarantee its authenticity. Our brand shows that this is not the case at all,” she adds. “A diamond has a history that covers millions of years, yet in principle this same creation can be re-created quickly in a lab. Is it cheating to create a perfect D IF diamond in a lab? It is the consumer’s choice not mine. The job of the industry is to ensure that there is no contamination; no mistakes are made with one being sold as the other. With Arctic Circle this possibility is completely minimised.”

WE SURVEYED NAJ RETAIL MEMBERS ON THE SUBJECT OF DIAMOND JEWELLERY: • Over a third said that diamond jewellery made up about half of their store’s offer, while 12% said that all or almost all of their stock comprises diamonds • Close to 40% are selling more diamonds than five years ago • Almost half sell an even split between wedding and other jewellery • Close to 90% sell ‘own-label’ rather than branded diamond jewellery • Almost half said their customers rarely ask about where a diamond is sourced • 46% have thought recently about synthetic diamonds finding their way into melee • 40% say that they have been competing for a while with e-tailers for classic designs • Almost 60% say that all 4Cs are equally important to customers; 30% say customers will compromise on some qualities for larger stones

Danhov

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 37

DIAMOND FEATURE

Chalfen

CERTIFIABLE? Confirming that diamond grading reports/certificates are an ongoing matter for concern (one that The Jeweller flagged up a couple of years ago), there was a panel discussion on diamond grading during IJL last month.

Chaired by Marion Wilson of the Birmingham Assay Office and with panelists that included Harry Levy from the London Diamond Bourse, Andrew Hinds of F Hinds, Adam Gillary of Swag Jewellers and Marie Chalmers from White Pine Diamonds, the premise that certificates can be something of a poisoned chalice for the industry was roundly agreed upon.

“In terms of grading reports/ certificates the 4Cs have taught people what is and isn’t colourless,” says David Allen, of 77Diamonds. “With the discrepancies in EGL grading standards, what is often assumed to be ‘colourless’ can often be quite yellow in tint and we have

Forevermark

38 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

seen colour grades be off by up to five grades. We educate our customers so they make an informed purchase with ‘Certification’ being an additional ‘C’ to consider. We explain that there are certification boards beyond GIA, but you have to ensure [a report] lies within a certain threshold to guarantee the quality you are looking for.”

While not the spawn of the devil exactly, certificates are being treated with a certain amount

Sarah Jordan for Arctic Circle

tool for the consumer and give them some comfort and safety, they do not tell the whole story.

This has led to diamond buyers and consumers buying pieces of paper, rather than assessing stones

“Although certificates are an excellent tool for the consumer… they do not tell the whole story” of suspicion. “I believe one of the reasons diamonds have become a cheap commodity is certificates,” says Alastair Garner of consultancy Radiant Diamonds.

“Although they are an excellent

for their beauty and characteristics based on the 4Cs. “In my opinion the only way to assess the price and value of one stone against another is to

compare them next to each other.

Consumers who buy stones online believe the certificate tells them everything, and two stones with the same grading are the same.

This is not necessarily the case and we need more training and information in order to explain this to consumers… and staff.”

Judith Lockwood agrees.

“Consumers do research and come in asking for what they think they want, driven by the labs. They are typically buying paper and not a beautiful diamond, nor the sales experience and reputation of the store they’ve visited. If a retailer was to buy some more unusual sizes of stones, of various colours and clarities, and worked to sell them, then they become the experts and not the consumer.”

“Working with regular suppliers who can guarantee quality and origin, and training staff to source higher quality stones, is the key,” says Garner. “Sales staff can then explain the benefits of beautifully cut stones, personally selected by highly skilled buyers, which creates added value and retained margins.

At Radiant we’re passionate about ensuring that our customers, and their customers, receive the best quality, completely natural and ethically sourced diamonds.” ➥

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DIAMOND FEATURE

DOING THE RIGHT THING As with synthetics, ‘ethical’ diamonds and questions of sourcing, are increasingly discussed – with varying degrees of passion (and indifference, still).

“I believe retailers are afraid to ask [where stones come from], because they don’t know where

“If consumers and retailers are not asking where diamonds have come from today, they will be tomorrow and next week and next month – this is coming and as an industry we had all better be ready. Those that take the plunge now will be the beneficiaries moving forward,” she adds.

Bykovs

sourcing before providing it,” argues Ehud Laniardo. “Being ethical is in the interest of the industry. We’re seeing the advent of retailers basing their jewellery on the concept of Fairtrade and ethics. This includes the gold, silver and diamonds used in the jewellery they are selling, and

Mastercut

the stones they have in stock, or have sold for four generations, have come from,” says Lockwood.

“They shouldn’t be afraid. In the training that I give, I help staff and their owners to overcome their worries of potential consumer questions about their current stock and currently-owned diamonds.

G McKenzie White Ice

40 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

“We don’t have to wait for consumers to demand ethical sourcing before providing it…”

Mastercut is finding that most retailers do ask about source… but not all end consumers. “But as this is something we are keen to make everyone aware of, we promote this in POS material and display,” says Sales Manager Colette Gibbons. “We also make sure that all store staff are confident in giving this information and provide certificates for all our jewellery, every diamond, that tells them that this is ethically sourced and can be traced back to the rough diamond. Using Fairtrade Gold is part of that process.”

“We don’t have to wait for consumers to demand ethical

they are doing this with great success. Consumers are right in demanding that.”

integrity, we ensure that our staff and all the people we work with benefit from legal, safe and responsible business practices.

This is how we are able to guarantee that each and every Forevermark diamond is conflict free, untreated and completely natural,” says the brand’s country manager Lisa Levinson.

“Responsible sourcing is our raison d’etre.”

A less emotive concern, according to Harry Levy, but still under the umbrella of ‘ethical’, is the issue of ‘illicit’ diamonds – stones that are traded with the avoidance of tax liabilities.

Another time… ➥

Which means that retail jewellers ought to do the same. “This is a big issue for everyone. We are asked frequently about ethical sourcing and our bigger customers demand a Kimberly Process statement on every invoice,” says Mark Milton.

Being able, with certainty, to track a diamond’s journey from mine to market brings with it assurance of ‘doing the right thing’. “To ensure commercial

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DIAMOND FEATURE

SIZE (AND SHAPE) MATTERS…?

Meanwhile, the increase in popularity of halo design rings indicates a growing interest in bigger, statement pieces… including larger stones, as Tony Tankel confirms. “Large diamonds from two to five carats are still very much in demand. High colours are very important, but small marks not visible to the naked eye, are tolerated because it can mean a huge difference in price,” he says.

Tankel

And at Emdico, with the most sought-after stone being 0.5ct to 1.50ct, there is a shift in colour and purity from higher grade to more commercial qualities.

“There has been a lot more interest in larger stones,” adds Howard Levine of Chalfen. “Lower quality is being accepted in order to lower the price and it is a challenge to find the right balance of quality/price.”

77Diamonds has seen an increase of 32 per cent in halo ring designs this year compared to last. “The solitaire engagement ring is being replaced for many by designs that have a bigger impact and it offers a great way to make a smaller centre stone look much more impressive,” explains Allen. At Tresor Paris requests for “bigger, better, high quality stones, with G-plus colour – and of course at a higher price” have been noticed this year in particular.

42 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

For designer-makers it can be their choice of stone that determines a customer’s decision on size… and beauty is in the eye of the beholder, as Alexis Dove would testify. “As a designer it’s important to me to be different from commercial jewellers and of course diamonds are particularly important for engagement rings.

I decided to specialise in unique diamonds including rose cuts, old cuts and unusual coloured brilliants,” she explains. “I have noticed that customers are going slightly larger for an unusual diamond and that they are choosing this over higher quality brilliants.”

But whether consumers (and therefore retailers) opt for size over quality – well, that depends on who you talk to. “The demand for our type of product is pretty inelastic – we’ll keep selling jewellery for as long as people get married,” says Lee Ruben, sales director of Gemex, whose range comprises over 2,500 wedding and eternity ring styles and a further 2,000 engagement rings.

“Of course we have competitors, but we’ve been distributing the Raphael Collection for six years and I have never had a retailer tell me they can buy better quality.

Our product is aimed at the quality-conscious not the priceconscious customer.”

While round brilliant stones continue to be the most popular – particularly for engagement rings – an increasing number of designers and manufacturers are finding that offering other cuts creates a potentially profitable point of difference.

At IJL Arctic Circle launched its Ideal Square diamond. “It’s the world’s only Ideal cut, hearts and arrows square diamond,” explains Lockwood, “and our retailers are enjoying telling their customers about it.”

At Tankel round brilliants are the most popular but there is “still strong demand for emerald, princess, pear, marquise and oval shapes” along with increased interest in earrings and pendants (“particularly at this time of year”) alongside the main engagement ring lines. At Gemex ovals, cushions, pear shapes and emerald cuts are creeping up on the ubiquitous round brilliants.

Tresor Paris

At Charles Green – where diamond-set wedding bands have been the best-selling product group for some time – the vintage trend has increased sales of emerald cut diamonds in rings and cushions are growing in popularity.

At the Worldwide Diamond Company, which trades in recycled diamonds, vintage is the biggest global trend currently. “Although we have no control over what we’re buying, the demand for old and antique cut diamonds is very big for the engagement ring market and we’re certificating a lot of 30 pointers and up,” says president Robert Wiener. “People want to know what they’re buying.”

For Mastercut Diamonds bigger and better seems to be the order of the day. “Customers coming into store are pushing themselves just a little bit further on their spend,” says Gibbons. “As we only offer the top end colours and clarities, it is clear that the consumer is becoming more informed and knowledgeable on diamonds.”

Howard Levine adds: “We have a steady demand for fancy shapes and due to the scarcity of the product in small sizes (below 0.70ct) I would like to see more in people’s windows. The price difference between fancies and rounds is not sustainable, and it will not last – making them a relative bargain right now if you can find good ones.”

Alexis Dove

Bucking the general trend, Norman Silverman Diamonds is stronger in fancy shape stones, with cushions being the most popular for the past eight years, along with a recent demand for ovals. “Many people want something different to their sister or their friends, so they turn to ovals, cushions, Asschers, emeralds, or even heart shapes,” explains Julie Richter.

“We see a growing interest in our unique patented cuts, the Ideal Square and the Ideal Cushion,” says Forevermark’s country manager Lisa Levinson. “Their sparkle is similar to an ideally proportioned round brilliant and the unique cuts offers the maximum light performance while exhibiting the hearts and arrows pattern.”

For a contemporary design with an intriguing twist of heritage, Jan Maarten Asscher is a new diamond jewellery brand with a very familiar old name. A descendant of the family that developed the iconic Asscher cut, Jan Maarten has taken elements of family history as inspiration – with touches of Art Nouveau and Art Deco brought into the mix – and with the Asscher and Jubilee cuts woven in. ➥

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DIAMOND FEATURE

… AFTER A FASHION Diamond set wedding bands are very popular currently at CW Sellors and one of its best selling engagement rings is a white gold Derbyshire Blue John or Whitby jet and diamond style. “As we continue to raise the profile of British gemstones, our extended portfolio of jewellery designs featuring these stones with diamonds continues to grow in popularity,” explains trade sales manager Kieran Perry. “Combining diamonds into our designs helps elevate them.”

C W Sellors

“Eternity rings are the core of our diamond business, however there is a new and refreshed interest in diamond pendants and earrings which we are doing so well with this year. We’re now also seeing a small revival in bracelets, bangles and integral necklaces, which is really encouraging,” explains Mark Milton.

Shaun Leane

While wedding, commitment and engagement rings are the main focus for diamonds, there’s a growing move towards more fashion statement jewellery (often bought by women for themselves). Shaun Leane’s new Diamond Signature Silver collection is a case in point – his celebrated Hook earrings have been translated in rose and yellow gold vermeil (as well as silver) and pavé-set with white diamonds.

PJ Watson

”We’ve produced a new halo stud with removable diamond surround and also have a really cool new design of diamond earring that follows the line of the ear in a gentle curve,” says Levine. “These unusual pieces are doing really well as retailers look for something different and attractive.”

IJL last month proved to be a good hunting ground for diamond-set, non-wedding jewellery. Domino’s Belle Ile collection included three new diamond-focused lines: Midnight, featuring black and white diamonds, Glacier, a celebration of white and Ore, with highlight diamonds on yellow and rose gold. The Scintillating Diamonds collection, with central diamonds mounted on fine wire continue to captivate with their pretty trembling. ➥

London Road

THE VIEW FROM THE SHOP FLOOR – comments via our diamond survey “The internet and shopping channels have certainly had an impact.

There’s no rush now at Christmas – trade seems to be more evenly spread out over the year. We’re making and offering more bespoke items. We need to create a demand for special items and identify ourselves as knowledgable, quality retailers and develop niche products and services, seen as outstanding.”

“We’re also competing against foreign (holiday) purchases of quite expensive diamonds, free of UK tax and un-declared at customs – which seems a growing problem.”

“The margins for retailers selling diamonds has dropped a huge amount since online companies now sell wholesale – and below wholesale – to the public. Soon many jewellery retailers will be gone as they cannot compete with this.”

“Customers are armed with much more diamond information, but they’re not always sure what it actually means… ‘a little knowledge’.”

“It seems local and online companies are far more desperate to make sales than ever before and have compromised margins for more volume of sales. Hence the lustre and brilliance of diamonds is diminishing, regardless of branding.”

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 45

DIAMOND FEATURE

SB London

Julien Riad Sayhoun (JRS) showed three collections in 18ct gold, the organic shapes dotted or pavé-set with high quality white and fancy colour diamonds. Anita Sondore takes inspiration from her homeland, Latvia, and in particular the ancient tradition of ‘eveningtime’ (candlelight gatherings during dark winter months) for her ‘Moving Light’ collection of delicate, yet dramatic, diamond-set jewellery.

The London Road Portobello collection is the brand’s platform for diamonds and is growing

Mark Milton

JRS

in popularity. “It’s the most glamorous and romantic of our collections and includes elegant diamond-set pendants and matching bracelets, earrings and rings in yellow and white gold,” explains creative director Suzanne Adams. “We often use

INNOVATION MEETS TRADITION Thierry Silber of Madestones puts the case for laboratory-grown diamonds “I am a third generation Antwerp-based diamond trader and got my start on the factory floor. My father didn’t intend for me to be a master cutter – he wanted me to get a 360-degree view of the diamond business. I polished diamonds for two years before joining the family business in 1978.

In 2008 I decided to venture into laboratory-grown diamonds. I believe in constantly looking for new products and opportunities. Innovative technology benefits both consumers and industry. Lab-grown diamonds are the modern marriage of technology and tradition, science and social values.

A mined diamond doesn’t always have to be the preferred choice.

A growing number of socially-conscious consumers view a lab-grown diamond as a desirable option – socially and environmentally relevant.

The appeal extends to a younger generation comfortable with technological innovation, offers affordable options for the engagement sector and gives those who have already purchased a diamond, something new to acquire. For retailers, jewellery manufacturers and designers, lab-grown diamonds can mean new markets and new opportunities.

traditional rose-cut pavé-set diamonds with a black rhodium plate finish; fun and fabulous black diamond pieces complete the collection.”

Fancy coloured diamonds… now that’s another story. n

Reverie Diamond

provide diamond-grading reports certifying it is a diamond and the source being laboratory-grown. They recognise this as a new part of the jewellery industry.

A lab-grown diamond is formed in the same manner as a naturallyoccurring diamond. The rough is grown from a small diamond seed, which is placed in an environment that contains carbon – the only molecular component of diamonds. After applying tremendous pressure and very high temperatures under highly controlled conditions, the seed begins to grow. Molecule-by-molecule, layer-by-layer, machines emulate nature’s diamond growth process.

The resulting rough diamond is then cut and polished, by the same cutters and tools that cut mined diamonds.

Recently I launched my lab-grown diamond brand, ‘Madestones’, with stones available usually in D-J colours and VVS-SI clarity. All those over 30 points come with a diamond report from IGI and are laser-inscribed identifying them as lab-grown. The price points are usually 40-50 per cent less than their natural sisters. We also provide pink, blue and yellow diamonds, at a fraction of the price of rare, natural coloured diamonds.

WHAT IS A LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMOND?

Laboratory-grown diamonds are the result of over 100 years of scientific research; like medieval alchemy, making diamonds is the stuff of legends. They’re not mined so they don’t disturb the earth and by definition are conflict-free. Based upon full disclosure and transparency, I strive to make their marketing clean, simple and easy to understand, as the brand name suggests.

It’s a diamond that has the identical optical, physical and chemical properties of a mined diamond; the same brilliance, lustre, fire, hardness, refractive index and specific gravity. The only difference is origin – one is grown above the ground, while the other is extracted from the ground. The three major diamond laboratories, GIA, HRD and IGI,

My goal is to continue to challenge the traditional jewellers’ mind set with new and viable ways to introduce laboratory-grown diamonds.

I don’t wish to be seen as a disruptive force, but as natural progression, marketing together with jewellers and the natural diamond industry.”

46 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

DIAMOND OPINION

DIAMONDS – the good news and the not so good…

Alastair Garner, managing director of Radiant Diamond Consulting is passionate about diamonds… but is also deeply concerned about the misconceptions surrounding African diamonds and the issues that he sees threatening the trade as a whole.

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have had the privilege of working in the diamond industry for the last 25 years.

Working with De Beers in various senior management roles and now as a consultant, I’ve worked with some of the best diamond companies in the world, seeing rough and polished stones that are exceptionally rare and valuable.

I have seen the real art and skill of a highly skilled diamond polisher and the love and passion given a stone to achieve that amazing fire and brilliance and maximise the colour and quality.

A machine-cut diamond might have the perfect proportions to gain triple X, but will lack the extra fire and brilliance a true craftsman can produce.

a stable and fair government that shares its wealth with the people. The shining light of this is Botswana with diamond revenues making up 35 per cent of GDP. This has been used for the good of the people with excellent schooling, healthcare, employment and housing.

De Beers has now moved its head office to Gaborone and the Government now sells 10 per cent of its production independently. With the support of De Beers and its client sightholders, Botswana now has a thriving diamond manufacturing industry which has created thousands of jobs for the local community and has brought much prosperity and investment to Botswana and Gaborone.

For most consumers diamonds are a oneoff purchase for one of the most important decisions of their lives. The diamond bought should be a thing of beauty that is loved and treasured by many generations.

My career with De Beers first sent me to South Africa in the late 1990s where I lived for two years. So began my love affair with this beautiful continent and I’ve had the privilege to have lived and worked also in Botswana, Namibia, Sierra Leone and Zambia.

It fills me with pride and joy to see the benefits that diamonds can bring to a country with

I have been working in Gaborone for over 10 years and the changes and investment in the city are staggering, with a new diamond centre, many new diamond polishing facilities, hotels, offices, restaurants and infrastructure to support this.

Many of the sightholders, which have opened facilities in Gaborone, not only employ hundreds of local people but also

invest in community schemes such as schools and orphanages to give something back. There are similar schemes in South Africa and Namibia supported by De Beers and its clients.

Many of our suppliers are Forevermark suppliers, so they can guarantee the origin of their polished diamonds as being from South Africa, Botswana and Namibia, which in my opinion, makes these stones as ethical as Canadian and Australian diamonds. But they also have the added benefit of giving much needed revenue to poor countries and communities. It’s a wonderful story that retailers can share with their clients, making them feel good about their diamond purchases.

made worse by diamond banks reducing lending to the industry, leading manufacturers to dump polished to aid liquidity. And along with a falling demand in the Far East it has caused a slump in polished prices.

But the overriding fact is that we are selling the most rare and valuable commodity as a cheap commodity with mass production and extremely low unsustainable margins. We in the trade need to take a long hard look at ourselves, otherwise we will destroy this amazing industry.

Many industry players say that it is impossible to tell the origin of polished stones. This is true if you are buying polished cheaply through multi channels. But many of our suppliers have audited systems, which allow them to track all rough and polished through the system. So clients can be reassured by a guarantee of the origins of diamonds sold.

Working directly with a marketleading supplier offers other benefits such as consistent assortments, an excellent make and an understanding of exact requirements, volume and repeatability.

This good-news element aside, I am very concerned about the industry I love which is in one of the most fragile states I have seen in my career. There are a number of issues within it that are destroying both manufacturing and retail margins.

High demand from many global manufacturers is keeping rough diamond prices high, with manufacturers working at very low margins or losses to keep regular rough supply and large factories employed. This is simply not sustainable and is

Earrings by Sarah Ho of SHO Fine Jewellery

For most consumers diamonds are a one-off purchase for one of the most important decisions of their lives. The diamond bought should be a thing of beauty that is loved and treasured by many generations.

We need to create ethicallysourced, beautifully cut stones that people are proud to wear.

Generic advertising is needed to promote diamonds, their beauty and how sales of them benefit local mining communities.

Diamonds have lost ground against other luxury products and we need to restore them back to their rightful place as the ultimate luxury, aspirational product.

Driving up demand and defending prices will maintain the luxury status, allowing a sustainable margin for the whole supply chain.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 47

DIAMOND RETAILING

to launch the Wylde flower diamond so there was quite an investment in stocking these into two shops. When I expanded the business five years ago and shortly after invested into the Wylde Flower diamond, I found it easier to raise some funds from a small group of clients who simply love jewellery and diamonds.

WYLDE at HEART Bath-based jeweller – and Association member – Nicholas Wylde has always wanted to be that little bit different from the rest. And now he’s achieved it… with his very own diamond – Wylde Flower.

What made you decide that wanted to create your own cut of diamond?

From the very start of the business I set out to stand out from everyone else – with my windows, my product and my service. It was always a dream to have my own cut of diamond… but a dream that seemed too far away. Why sell something that everyone else has and wants to sell cheaper than you? And the rise of the internet has pushed me harder to achieve my dream.

What was the starting point for your quest? Who did you initially speak to about it?

I was about to celebrate my 25th year of trading and thought this was the time to launch something that I would be very proud of. So I spoke to one of my suppliers in Antwerp who I knew hand cut unusual stones and he invited me to the Antwerp Diamond Show.

Did you know exactly what sort of cut you wanted? How? Why? I’ve tried to sell branded fancy cut

48 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

diamonds before and they looked great but were slow sellers. Round is king so that was my brief.

The cutter showed me a stone he had been working on and both my wife Lucy and I looked at it and saw the flower effect at the bottom. A few tweaks to the cut… and the brand was born.

Do you know other small independent retailers who have done such a thing? I imagine that most would think that such a project was beyond them...

No I don’t. It is a long journey – getting the cut perfect, registering the branding with a good name and patenting the cut.

Not to mention the investment.

It was a gamble that I took… with an amazing response.

Did you have an idea of the costs that would be involved? Explain how you funded the project?

No, not at first. But as I had a long relationship with the cutter the deal came together nicely with commitment from both sides. I designed three collections

It’s a win win – I get the investments for five years without any ties (a lot of trust from the clients) and they get a very good return (much better than they would get from the banks). They become a platinum customer with many perks. They are all very keen to see the Wylde brand grow… especially the Wylde Flower diamond.

What makes the Wylde Flower different from other ‘usual’ cuts? Does it inspire your jewellery design?

We’re marketing the Wylde Flower diamond as the perfect diamond for love – a diamond and flowers now coming together. It has 24 more facets than a standard brilliant – perfectly cut to show the flower at the bottom, yet delivering more fire and shimmer than a brilliant. The stone when seen speaks for itself, but when a sales consultant launches into the unique and exclusive story my clients are even more won over by it. Every year I’ve launched a new collection with the stone.

Did you encounter any problems in the process of creating Wylde Flower – either practical, bureaucratic or political? Was there ever a moment when you thought: “What am I doing?!”

No problems as such. Just keeping it quiet until I had patented and registered the cut and brand.

How long did it take from start to finish? When did you launch it?

It took 18 months until the launch in 2012 but it was worth the wait, knowing that I was investing heavily into this. I had to be careful buying new diamond stock.

How did you launch it to your customers and what has the reaction been? How are you promoting it now?

I launched it at a couple of events leading up to Christmas that year. Firstly in a very pretty engagement-style ring called the Petal Collection. Then the Flower Collection which is perfect for Christmas. The response was fabulous. I’ve got an order for the thousandth stone. The diamond has been recognised by IGI and each stone is branded and numbered.

My goal is to make this diamond the must-have engagement stone… eventually taking over the Tiffany brand.

FEATURE

Isabella Liu – bringing China and Britain together

‘A rising star’ is a phrase already being used to describe Isabella Liu, a talented young Chinese jewellery artist-designer, as Tom Cunliffe reports.

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aving won awards from Italy, Spain, China and the UK, this year Londonbased Isabella Liu scooped five awards at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards. But her talents don’t stop there.

Liu plans to take great British designers and artists to China and help them explore and open up the Chinese market, and also bring great Chinese talents and design culture back to Britain. Gordon Hamme was her mentor from the mentoring scheme launched by the BJA (and due to be incorporated into the NAJ’s educational and support package). “I’ve rarely met such an ambitious young lady with a vision to bring together the best of British design and Chinese manufacturing through art cultural management. Isabella really is exceptional,” he says.

She has recently given public talks at the Golden Design Awards in Beijing and Wuhan as an industry leader. In July, she showcased her work at the BMW Henley Festival. She is currently busy with a jewellery design show in Macau, and The Great Creator exhibition in Beijing, to which she was invited by the British Council’s Cultural and Education Department.

Liu is currently making a name for herself as one of the most original jewellery designers and artists of her generation.

Since childhood she was surrounded by art, and began to learn how to draw and paint at the age of six. In 2009 she was one of the top students at

50 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

Hubei Institution of Fine Arts, but unsatisfied with the study environment there, she dropped out and started a Jewellery Design BA at Birmingham City University’s School of Jewellery and then an MA in Arts and Cultural Management at King’s College London. She has worked within the arts and jewellery industry since 2011, and has been employed by leading companies such as Debut Contemporary, Babette Wasserman and Fei Liu. Her latest award-winning jewellery collection ‘Mending’, is inspired by the philosophy of Kintsugi, a 600-year old Japanese art that treats breakage and repair as part of the history of an object. For ‘Mending’ she collected many broken or fragile objects. Instead of hiding their damaged areas, she opted to celebrate and highlight their fragility, breathing new life into them by transforming them into wearable pieces of art.

‘Party, Party, Party’ catwalk piece

In Kintsugi, broken pottery is repaired with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold.

The golden cracks in Liu’s designs are intended to be appreciated both on the body as pieces of jewellery, and off, as artworks in their own right – blurring and pushing the boundaries between sculpture and jewellery. ‘Mending’ has been in development for three years, originating in her ‘Scar is No More a Scar’ and award-winning ‘Party Party Party’ collections – conceptual and fashionable works, with a personal element.

‘Scar is No More a Scar’ was inspired by a fireworks injury the 12-year old Liu suffered. Liu has learnt that there is beauty to be found in the broken, and while her scars may have healed, they still inspire her personal philosophy, which she puts into her designs. “I love to draw attention to negative or damaged things, but I always turn them into something more beautiful.”

Liu is proud of her unique design signature, which fuses contemporary Western design with Asian culture. In the next two years she plans to develop a wide range of design products, on both the artistic and commercial levels. When Burberry COO John Smith bought some of Liu’s jewellery, his wife Carrie Ferman described the piece as “absolutely beautiful and I take much pride in wearing what only can be described as a true work of art”.

“Isabella’s creative flair, ideas and process are unique which not surprisingly has led to critical acclaim. Her life experiences have helped enormously in shaping her career and becoming an award-winning worldwide jewellery designer,” says Paul D. Dasilva, the international journalist consultant and executive producer. “Like her beautiful jewellery collection, Isabella’s future shines ever brightly, and she is setting to rise even further within the industry achieving further critical acclaim which surely awaits.”

At the same time, Liu’s desire to understand more about how the industry works, and the challenges within it, led her to start her MA. “Apart from focusing on the creative side, I also want to look at the whole landscape of the arts world,” she says. She aims to offer wellresearched information on the industry, as well as being one of its creative producers.

Liu’s passion is connecting cultures through arts and design.

She has been actively engaged with British and Chinese culture as a designer over the past few years – aiming to build a bridge between the two countries on academic, artistic and business levels. “Every time I go back to China, I bring British culture and arts with me, as well as bringing Chinese design culture back to the UK.” She’s already committed to additional exciting projects.

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SHOW REVIEW

ROOKIE ROCKERS

RACHEL BOSTON The capsule ‘Cosmos’ collection features one-of-a-kind pieces using large rose-cut diamond slices, chosen specifically for their inclusions – beauty can be found in the imperfect. The design of each piece is dictated by the character of the slices.

A second collection, in 18ct gold with gemstones, is inspired by the Runic alphabet.

Inspired by ruined architecture, the signature collection by siblings Mark and Anna Jewsbury uses hand-carved and sculpted marble and jadeite to complement precious metal. The colours are muted, with black and white diamonds as highlights. Another collection, in yellow or blackened 18ct gold, is constructed of individually crafted and hand-assembled butterfly wings.

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RUIFIER

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Reflecting her love of colour and unusual materials, Lily’s fine jewellery pieces are created from 18ct gold set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and solid marble columns. Each bespoke piece is hand-made in Hatton Garden and the line sits alongside her range of colourful resin and hand-dyed Perspex jewellery as well as engagement and wedding rings.

Geometric gemstones – moonstones, amethysts and diamonds – combine with 18ct gold and negative space to create graphic shapes for Ruifier’s designs. The feminine tones, innovative stone cuts and graphic shapes create a look that is edgy and soft at the same time… as well as red-carpet glamorous.

52 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

ANA DE COSTA

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LILY KAMPER

COMPLETED WORKS

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This is the third year of Rock Vault – the jewellery salon, specially curated

by Stephen Webster MBE, that forms part of the Designer Showrooms during London Fashion Week (18th – 22nd September). During the event the coveted showcases are handed over to 10 top talents, and every three years five designers make way for five new names. Announced at a reception hosted by Fortnum & Mason earlier in the month, the latest lucky winners were: Rachel Boston, Lily Kamper, Completed Works, Ruifier and Ana de Costa. They joined Beth Gilmour, Ornella Iannuzzi, Shimmell & Madden, Yunus & Eliza and Jacqueline Cullen.

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Now finding itself in the edgier environs of Soho, Rock Vault at London Fashion Week last month provided an international showcase for five new names to the line-up.

The designer’s love of colour – green in particular – is evident in the new collection, which shows her moving towards a more refined mood, in terms of material and aesthetic. In 18ct gold the pieces use triple A-quality green Tahitian pearls (a new direction for Ana) and tsavorite, for a look that is rich and exotic.

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THE ELITE LEAGUE

JO THORNE

Having started out as a designer of hair accessories for the bridal market, Fair first-timer Jo has developed her craft and moved into the luxury jewellery market.

Still focussing on hair ornament (although she has also added earrings to her collection) Jo’s large Passion Flower Hairpin is in 18ct gold and green sapphire.

A slightly smaller version turns, ingeniously, into a brooch.

Here is our much-edited selection from the 23 pieces that Peyton-Jones chose:

Using a technique that he invented, and which took three years to create and perfect, Tom Rucker uses state-of-theart laser welding technology for hollow wire pieces in a specially-developed platinum alloy, as well as platinum fused with rare gold alloys (a necessary adjustment due to gold’s soft, heat conductive nature). These earrings also include yellow diamonds and turquoise.

UTE DECKER

Renowned for her dramatic, sculptural pieces and working with Fairtrade gold and recycled silver, Ute Decker has broadened her collection of generously sized neckwear, armwear and rings, as shown here, to include earrings.

“I started making them for myself and other people wanted them.

They evolved from the shapes of my rings.” One particular style includes a post for pierced ears as well as an end that hooks (gently) into the front of the ear.

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EMMELINE HASTINGS Bold, striking and, occasionally, monumental, Emmeline’s pieces in carved acrylic are actually very light and wearable. The organic, ethereal nature is emphasised by scatterings of tiny silver, gold and titanium discs.

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Each year Goldsmiths asks a renowned tastemaker to curate a showcase of personal highlights from the Fair and for 2015 this task fell on Julia Peyton-Jones, director of the Serpentine Galleries in London. “Colour, form, texture and the making process play key roles in both the contemporary jewellery and silversmithing world as in much of contemporary art. Like the world’s most exciting artists today, the skilled designermakers at Goldsmiths’ Fair are constantly pushing boundaries to bring exquisite new works to the discerning public,” said Peyton-Jones.

TOM RUCKER

MAUD TRAON

TERI HOWES

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Taking time to peruse the booths at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair will reap its rewards, as Belinda Morris discovered when she visited the event recently. lthough primarily a selling event aimed at the consumer, the annual Goldsmiths’ Fair deserves to be in the collective industry diary.

Many designer-makers showcasing their work are open to trade enquiries, but that aside, the visit is worth it for the inspirational element alone. The creativity and craftsmanship presented over the two weeks (with a different group of designers each week) is phenomenal. Scrupulously vetted by an expert panel (only those working from independent UK workshops and making in gold, platinum and silver are permitted to show), the names can count themselves among the industry’s elite.

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SHOW REVIEW

Jewellery is often described as wearable art and this is particularly so of Maud’s work – an explosion of colour, form and texture incorporating mixed media. The precious metals and gemstones are combined with occasional non-precious materials used in pop culture-inspired colour combinations.

Another newcomer to the Fair, Teri works with 18ct and 22ct gold for collections that are inspired by fashion, textiles, pattern and geometry. To create her pieces – such as these delicate, fluid earrings embellished with tiny diamonds, she literally knits or crochets the metal – a low-tech rebellion against “instant everything”.

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 55

NAJ AWARDS

NAJ AWARDS 2015 Helping a memorable, event-filled year draw to an exciting close, next month sees the inaugural National Association of Jewellers’ Awards – a celebration of excellence within the entire jewellery and watch industry and specifically the excellence evident within the membership of the newly-unified NAJ. To be held during the annual BJGF’s Benevolent Society Ball (3rd December, 2015) and with Continental Jewellery as headline sponsor, the Awards will fall into six categories, each with five short-listed nominees. The final winners will be chosen by the membership… you! So visit our website – www.naj.co.uk – and VOTE NOW for those businesses you think most worthy of the titles. While the full details of the category criteria, and the nominees, can be found on-line, here’s a taster of their supporting entries, to give you food for thought:

DESIGNER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY CLOGAU ALEXIS DOVE

An ambassador of British design and craftsmanship, all Alexis’ jewellery is designed and made in Lewes. She combines a robust wholesale business of largely silver collections, with a bespoke precious jewellery service from her retail shop and a thriving e-commerce site.

AUGUSTINE JEWELS

Founded in 2013, Alexandra Robson had the dream of making exquisite handmade jewels… in England. Each collection is inspired by an exotic location and the pieces, with their attention to design and detail, highlight her love of coloured gemstones.

BABETTE WASSERMAN

BRAZEN STUDIOS

DOWER & HALL

Stylish, individual and with wide appeal (David Beckham, Antonio Banderas, Nicole Scherzinger…), this is an example of a British company working successfully within the UK and international markets.

She also designs for Prada and Reiss among others.

With an award-winning approach to design and the experience to develop creative, commercial collections, founding creative director, Sarah Raffel’s mission is to blend design and originality.

Authenticity, honesty and integrity are central to Brazen’s ethos.

MALCA AMIT UK

TH MARCH

THE JEWELLERY DISPLAY COMPANY

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Dower & Hall has launched its awardwinning Cherish – an innovative range in yellow and rose gold vermeil, silver or 9ct gold, that encapsulates the current trend and demand for personalised, modern-day heirlooms.

SERVICE SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY HOCKLEY MINT SUNSHINE EXIM

This diamond jewellery supplier offers an online trading service to retailers without their own websites. Jewellers register on sunsineexim.com, then replace SE’s logo with their own. Walk-in customers can see the retail-priced jewellery, and products to be viewed can be ordered on appro.

MAKER MENDS

An inspiring success story, David Lewis started his own workshop – building his own workbench – 36 years ago and today his business Makermends is the largest jewellery repair and bespoke service provider in Europe, employing about 120 people in the UK and Thailand. This year it became RJC certified.

Malca-Amit offers a variety of secure logistical solutions to the jewellery, diamond and watch industry. A recent collaboration with the London Diamond Bourse gives Bourse members an opportunity to bring high value goods into the country temporarily, without the need to pay huge VAT amounts.

TH March offers excellent services for jewellers, whether dealing with claims or industry questions.

Leading the way on security and industry measures – it was a co-founder of SaferGems – it also actively helps to support the jewellery industry through training, sponsorship and competitions.

TJDC offers point-ofsale solutions to help communicate the best selling points of jewellery.

As well as simple, preprinted acrylic blocks with generic terms, it can also create bespoke blocks capturing the essence of brands, having done so for companies such as Chanel,

RETAILER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY TREASURE HOUSE COMPANY BEARDS

Beards has been a forwardthinking, innovative retailer for many years and 2014/15 has seen it really grow and take jewellery in the South West to a luxury level. It is one of a few to completely manufacture and retail its own jewellery to such a high standard and at scale, showcasing why people should buy British.

GREEN + BENZ

A warm welcome, expert advice and exclusive surroundings create the Green + Benz experience.

With a new store opening in Chesterfield in November, this forward-thinking, luxurious store, run by its family-like team, offers customers a memorable, enchanting experience while buying top designer brands and fine diamond jewellery.

56 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

HARRIET KELSALL BESPOKE JEWELLERY

Specialising in ‘clean sheet’ bespoke, Kelsall’s designers and goldsmiths offer handsketching, hand-craftsmanship and CAD design from their ‘experiential’ retail concept Jewellery Centre in Hertforshire. HKBJ was among the first 20 Fairtrade gold users and the first RJCcertified UK independent jeweller.

JACOBS THE JEWELLERS

This third-generation, Reading-based family business provides classic and contemporary jewellery and watches, providing on-site workshop facilities, IRV valuations, CAD service etc.

Jacobs is pro-staff training, supports its local community, raises funds for charities and works to further craft and industry.

JEREMY FRANCE

Over 25 years Winchesterbased Jeremy France has evolved from a small, family-run shop into a thriving business with a team of 25.

The listed, three-storey showroom is also home to a state-of-the-art workshop and luxury (own-branded) Champagne lounge. Bespoke commissions include Gurkha brooches for Joanna Lumley OBE and HRH Princess Anne.

NAJ AWARDS

E-TAILER OF YEAR SPONSORED BY WB THE CREATIVE JEWELLERY GROUP 77 DIAMONDS

In its 10th year, 77 Diamonds has been at the forefront of the jewellery E-commerce world since inception.

With online access to approximately 500,000 certified diamonds, it offers consumers great choice and value, that has never been offered online before.

CHAINS OF GOLD

Chains of Gold went live last year and in such a short space of time has achieved fantastic growth. To date it has almost 2,000 happy customers and is expanding its range to offer a selection of watches and UKmade jewellery. Passionate about jewellery it would love to see the company growing further.

DIAMOND BOUTIQUE

This leading online retailer specialises in fine gemstone and diamond jewellery, with all products designed and made in-house – its dedicated team of experts is involved in everything from sourcing rough material to crafting jewellery. Particularly successful are the Element cocktail rings.

GEMPORIA

JEWEL STREET

GECKO

HOCKLEY MINT

JOHNNY ROCKET

TRESOR PARIS

This family-run business, headed by CEO/ gemhunter Steve Bennett, owes its success to passionate leadership and a clear vision from the top. It aims to give customers an accessible, informed and enriching experience. Gemstones are sourced from 206 countries, and affordably-priced jewellery is key.

Jewel Street brings together 200+ luxury jewellery designers and independent boutiques, offering a hand-picked edit of the world’s most covetable fine and designer jewellery to a discerning global clientele. The curated range includes heritage brands and innovative newcomers – all quality-assured by an in-house goldsmith.

JEWELLERY & WATCH SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY THE COMPANY OF MASTER JEWELLERS AMORE

Amore has developed two strong brands to offer its retailers. Amore Argento combines silver with vibrant colour gemstones, while Amore Oro allows retailers to create bespoke 9ct or 18ct gold jewellery collections with their choice of gemstones. Both come with beautiful, striking packaging.

BERING TIME

This Danish watch brand is renowned for working with and helping the retailer to make the brand successful – training and incentivising staff. When one retail customer promoted Bering at a local event, the brand supplied marketing, materials, prizes and even attendance. A great supplier and therefore great sales.

CONTINENTAL JEWELLERY

Continental Jewellery (UK) is a fully integrated jewellery manufacturer and part of Hong Kong-based Continental Holdings.This year saw the introduction of its hugely successful 9ct and 18ct core ranges of unbranded diamond and gemstone jewellery, seeing sales to independents up by 200 per cent in two years.

Gecko offers outstanding customer service and support to provide a an efficient, friendly and innovative trading experience. This year saw the first Open House for customers, press and business partners to see behind the scenes, attend seminars, and meet the team. The brand is also proud of its RJC certification.

Leading the way in promoting Fairtrade gold, Hockley Mint is one of this industry’s best ambassadors of ethical and positive CSR principles.

It combines the best of high-tech innovation with traditional craftmanship in its jewellery production – supporting British jewellery manufacturing, skills and apprenticeships.

MEMBER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY PRESMAN MASTERMELT BIRMINGHAM ASSAY OFFICE

A momentous year for BAO. with Its move away from its old building to its new HQ, which has been completed without impacting on its many services to the trade. Despite challenging economic times in recent years, under the leadership of Stella Layton – with a hard-working and dedicated team – it goes from strength to strength.

CATHERINE JONES JEWELLERY

This innovative retailer, founded on a core of distinctive, superb quality jewellery, has, this year, bought the German design and manufacturing company Becker Design – effectively owning the supply chain.

Its sponsorship of the Cambridge University Sports Dance team has brought the shop closer to the younger, energetic market.

CW SELLORS

Renowned for Rebecca Sellors’ designs of innovative, striking jewellery using British gemstones Derbyshire Blue John and Whitby jet – increasing awareness of these stones. Now the fine jewellery manufacturer and retailer is masterminding a new era for the industry – planning permission has been granted to create a Jewellery Design Centre visitor attraction.

This influential Greenwichbased retailer continues to be the beacon for the first time graduate jewellery designer, the new and the adventurous. Stephen Webster, Alexander Davis, William Cheshire, Tomas Donocik, Sarah Ho and many others debuted in this gallery. Johnny is also credited with nurturing the stable of talent under his care.

2015 saw the opening of Tresor Paris’ flagship store in Greville Street – the first brand store in Hatton Garden. As well as retailing online and in 1,000+ stockists, the store offers a stylish, premium shopping experience with something for everyone: engagement rings, impressive one-off pieces, luxury but affordable diamond selection and precious stones.

VOTING CLOSES ON 15TH NOVEMBER, 2015, SO VISIT: WWW.NAJ.CO.UK AND VOTE NOW! (IF YOU SNOOZE THEY LOSE…)

THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETY BALL

Held annually by the British Jewellery, Giftwear & Finishing Federation, the Ball raises funds for the charity, which financially assists those who have worked with the associated industries. Last year almost £27,500 – this year promises to be as fun-packed and celebratory as ever. Tickets: £65 per person.

Date: Thursday 3rd December, 2015 Venue: St John’s Hotel, Solihull For details and ticket availability visit: www.thebenevolentsociety.com or contact Lynn Snead on: 0121 745 4613

THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 57

GEMSTONES

Romancing the

Coloured rough

STONE

COLOURED DIAMONDS Gem-A’s Andrew Fellows FGA DGA, turns his attention to what are termed ‘fancy colour’ diamonds.

C

olour in diamonds is seen as both undesirable, and desirable.

Undesirable because at low levels, the diamond can take on a pale colour, such as yellow or brown, which leads to it being graded lower down the international scale of D to Z. Most people start to see colour in a diamond at about H or I grades, and these are deemed less desirable than, say, a D grade, and so are priced lower. This perceived reduction in value continues until you reach a certain saturation of colour, after which the diamond becomes termed ‘fancy colour’, and the price then increases, and for some colours and concentrations, this can be way above the levels achieved by truly colourless diamonds.

Diamonds come in every colour and shade of the rainbow – as confirmed by the Natural History Museum in London. It has the Aurora Diamonds on display, 296 naturally coloured stones, with a total weight of 267.45ct.

The causes of colour in diamonds are many and varied, and in some cases are still relatively unknown. The following is a brief, if slightly scientific, rundown of some of these causes, and the colours created.

The most common colours seen are yellows and browns. Yellow is due to atoms of nitrogen being scattered throughout the diamond. As the number of these increases, so does the depth of colour. Browns, on the other hand, aren’t caused by impurities but instead the diamond has been squashed and squeezed as it grew deep in the ground. These different directions of pressure caused the structure to become distorted, and as the conditions were not suitable for the diamond to relieve these stresses, ‘plastic deformation’ occurred. This is an important cause of colour, because not only is it responsible for brown, but it also causes pinks and even reds in diamond, depending upon the amount of directional pressure applied.

Reds are amongst the rarest of all colours in diamond, and very few pure red diamonds have been found – one known as the DeYoung Red was allegedly sold through an estate sale as a garnet. Because of the colour, it was assumed not to be a diamond!

Coloured cut and polished diamonds

58 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

The Hope diamond (45.52ct), is possibly the most famous coloured diamond that exists. The blue colour is due to very small concentrations of boron (a very light element), and this also gives blue diamonds a unique property – the ability to conduct electricity. All other diamonds are insulators. Very small levels of boron can create a significant blue coloration, far smaller concentrations than would be required to create a similar concentration of yellow. Natural blue diamonds are rare, and can achieve very high prices at auction (for example, when Sotheby’s auctioned ‘The Blue’, a 9.75ct pear cut diamond in 2014, it reached $32.6 million), but not as high as reds do – in 2014, a 2.09ct heart-shaped red diamond sold for $5 million – that’s $2.5 million per carat!

Another colour seen in diamond, although not usually in a deep shade, is green. This is caused by exposure to radioactive elements or particles that, over thousands of years, have damaged the structure, forcing atoms out of their correct positions. These misplaced atoms absorb light, and create a green colour, but only in the surface layers. Polish this surface away too much, and the green colour disappears. Arguably the most famous green diamond is the Dresden Green (41ct). This is unique, even among green diamonds, as the colour penetrates the whole stone – most radiation sources aren’t powerful enough to colour a whole stone.

Interestingly, if this were sent to a modern lab, it would probably come back with a report stating that it had been treated, so rare was the natural event that caused it, but so easy to recreate in a lab environment. I should point out that, although radiation is the cause of this colour, the stones themselves aren’t radioactive!

Black diamonds have become popular in recent years. They can be either natural or treated in nature, and can be due to several factors.

The diamond may contain so many dark inclusions that the overall appearance is black. It could have been irradiated, which would normally be done in a lab, to help what was potentially a dark coloured diamond achieve its full potential to be opaque and dark. Probably the least common cause, is for the diamond to contain extremely high levels of nitrogen. In smaller doses, this is the same element that causes yellow, but if it gets to sufficiently high levels, a black colour is created And finally, a colour that is seen in some diamonds, such as the Pumpkin, but about which not much is known… orange. At the time of writing this article, the definitive cause of colour in orange diamonds is… still under discussion. So few have been tested that the factors affecting the colour have not yet been determined. Despite this, one weighing 14.82ct was sold at a Geneva auction in 2013 for an amazing £35.5 million.

Finally, there are diamonds that can change colour. Known as chameleon diamonds, these begin as olive green and can turn to brown or brownyellow when heated, or left in the dark, reverting to their original shade when returned to normal temperature/light. Some even work in reverse, starting brown, then becoming a greenish brown colour. The jury is still out on how that happens…

FEATURE

YOU’RE HIRED! Having won a Medal of Excellence at the recent WorldSkills competition, apprentice mounter Ben Pritchard, 21, is now an Associate Fellow of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths. We asked him about his burgeoning jewellery career.

Apple Nootenboom, IPG chairman, Ben Pritchard and Harvey Sillis

What made you decide to become a mounter?

While at school I had an opportunity to do work experience in the workshop of jewellery retailer Emson Haig… and I loved it. When I finished school at 16 they offered me a five-year apprenticeship in diamond mounting with Master Goldsmith Harvey Sillis and I grabbed the chance.

How was it in the beginning?

At first I really struggled with the basic skills like soldering and filing, but Harvey encouraged me to carry on, saying that it would get better. It was difficult – I was 16 and had committed to five years.

Was this the right career for me?

It really helped that Harvey had been there and done it and could guide me both at and away from the bench. I could talk to him about anything.

Was it daunting initially?

To begin with I was doing four days a week at Emson Haig –

60 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

three with Harvey plus a day release with goldsmith, Paul Raven, in South London. I was working normal nine-to-five hours but leaving home at six in the morning and getting back at eight, so it was a long day.

It was very hard work at first and it felt like I wasn’t getting better, which was frustrating – I’d see Harvey’s work and wanted to be able to make the same things to the same high standard. He said that it would come with time and that he’d been doing it for 50 years!

It was just the two of us in the workshop, which put pressure on our relationship, but we got along so well and still do. He was serious when he had to be, but would have me laughing throughout the day – which helped a lot.

What is it about mounting that appeals to you?

I love the idea of making something like an engagement ring that will be on someone’s finger for their whole life, bringing them so much

happiness. Turning a plain sheet of flat metal into something amazing like that is my favourite part of diamond mounting.

Why did you decide to enter WorldSkills?

The Goldsmiths’ Company encourages apprentices to enter competitions – you have to be able to think for yourself and make something without asking your Master how to do it. It was obviously a good thing to do. For two years running I competed in the UK Skills in Birmingham – the first year I finished third of five and the second year second of six. I was then approached to do WorldSkills, which was very daunting – it’s a massive step-up in quality.

Tell us about the experience and the gains?

In the competition in São Paulo I was up against 17 competitors, all of us making the same thing – the Brazilian flag with some artistic flair. It was intended to test all the core skills to the highest level under immense pressure. We had 22 hours to make it, which was very tight – if I had to make this piece at work I’d quote 30 hours. So you can’t make any mistakes.

When I first started competing I wasn’t great under pressure – if something went wrong it affected me for the rest of the competition.

After several competitions I don’t let the pressure bother me. There were over 200,000 spectators at São Paulo, so I was being constantly watched.

Working with other goldsmiths was invaluable. I learnt a lot from my WorldSkills training manager, Steve Jinks, and Paul York was hugely helpful throughout my training at the Goldsmiths’ Centre. A couple months before the competition I trained everyday at work – I couldn’t have done it without their support and the time they gave me to improve. The biggest thing I gained from competing was self-belief – you have to believe you are good enough to make the design in front of you. If you don’t, then you will never be able to make the piece.

My aim was to be in the top 10 because the UK hasn’t had a jeweller in that place since 2003.

So coming eighth and receiving the Medal of Excellence was an amazing achievement… I exceeded all my expectations.

What’s next?

I’ll finish my apprenticeship in November and will then become a Freeman of the City and the Goldsmiths’ Company. I’ve been working at Emson Haig during my apprenticeship and for the last nine months have been running the workshop to gain experience in talking to companies, ordering materials and distributing the workload. Occasionally I talk to customers if they have any issues.

My future plans are to stay with Emson Haig and develop my diamond mounting skills further.

But one day I’d love to run my own business.

on my first apprentice over 40 years ago. It’s a privilege to “passI took on my skill and experience to a younger person starting out in the jewellery trade – hoping that they will continue in that chosen profession and, in turn, train future apprentices, thereby preventing the trade from declining. Taking on an apprentice is very timeconsuming, involving a great deal of dedication by the Master and huge expense over the five years.

After about three months’ tuition I could see that Ben had a natural talent and flair which I could encourage and nurture. His perseverance and growing ability gained him his place representing the UK in WorldSkills. None of my previous apprentices reached the standard required to take part in that or the UK competition.

Harvey Sillis FIPG

”

Discover how your business could grow as part of our family

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Become part of a progressive group that exists to benefit you, the independent retail jeweller.

The CMJ is much more than a buying group offering preferential terms. It is a network of retail members across the UK and Ireland, who together with the CMJ’s executive team, approved suppliers and professional experts can provide support, advice and friendship.

Call Lucy, our membership services manager, on 01788 540250 to find out how we can help you.

REGULAR

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO SEE AND… TRADE FAIRS & EVENTS October 25th – 27th: JA New York, Jacob K Javits Convention Center, New York Around 400 US and international fine and fashion jewellery brands and designers. (www.ja-newyork.com) November 6th – 9th: Malaysia International Jewellery Festival, Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Over 160 diamond, gemstone and pearl suppliers as well as jewellery manufacturers and wholesalers and equipment providers, from across Europe and the Far East. (www.mij.com.my) 6th – 11th: Mineralis, Messe, Berlin, Germany International show for minerals, fossils, gemstones and jewellery. (www.berlin-mineralien.de) 10th – 11th: Jewelry Expo, online An online unique event dedicated to the jewellery industry, providing the trade with an opportunity to B2B network, build business relationships, view new designs, watch webinars and browse virtual aisles. (www.jewelriesexpo.com) 21st – 22nd: Gem-A Conference, RIBA, Portland Place, London W1 International speakers will give presentations on a wide range of gem-related topics, during this weekend of networking and special events. The Association will also co-host the 18th Federation of European Education in Gemmology (FEEG). (www.gem-a.com) 26th – 29th: Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturers’ Show, HK Convention & Exhibition Centre Exhibitors from across Asia, the USA and Europe. With zones

62 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

focusing on fine jewellery, pearls, gemstones, diamonds, watches, equipment and international designers. www.jewelry.org.hk

SALES & EXHIBITIONS October Current – 19th November: A Sense of Jewellery, The Goldsmiths’ Centre, London EC1 Rediscovering British jewellery design through the work of 40 artists over a period of 40 years.

Put together by invited guest curators and featuring emerging and noted established makers. (www.goldsmiths-centre.org) Current – 4th January 2016: The Silversmith’s Art: Made in Britain Today, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh This exhibition celebrates the creativity and skill which make Britain a world leader in modern silver. It features 150 masterpieces made by 66 silversmiths between 2000 and 2015. In collaboration with the Goldsmiths’ Company. (www.nms.org) Current – 31st January 2016: Celts: art and identity, British Museum, London WC1 In partnership with the National Museum of Scotland, a major exhibition telling the story of the Celts through art objects that they made. These include a hoard of gold torcs (made between 300-100 BC) found at Blair Drummond in 2009. (www.britishmuseum.org)

SalonQP

ASSOCIATION EVENTS AND COURSES November 3rd: Developing Sales Skills, Birmingham or London (venue tbc) Provided for NAJ members and facilitated by Virada Training, this short course will cover such aspects as managing customer interaction, presenting, helping with decision-making and developing commitment. Contact: amanda.white@naj.co.uk December 3rd: Benevolent Society Ball, St John’s Hotel, Solihull The annual evening extravaganza hosted by the British Jewellery, Giftwear & Finishing Federation. The event will also feature the NAJ Awards. www.batf.uk.com

19th – 22nd: Made Brighton, The Corn Exchange at The Dome, Church St, Brighton Design and craft fair offering the chance to buy direct from local and national makers. Alice Barnes, Emily Nixon and Penny Warren are among the 40+ jewellers who will be showing. (www.brighton-made.co.uk) Blair Drummond torcs – British Museum

22nd – 25th October: Made London, 1 Marylebone, London W1 A design and craft fair showcasing work by top, innovative makers from the UK and abroad. Among the jewellers and silversmiths exhibiting this year will be: Alice Barnes, Hannah Bedford, Laura Bennett, Juliette Bigley, Sarah Herriot and Stuart Jenkins. (www.madelondon.org) November 12th – 14th: SalonQP, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 Europe’s largest luxury consumer watch event with more than 30 top end brands exhibiting, including: A. Lange & Sohne, Tudor, Ralph Lauren, Bremont and Nomos. SalonQP will also included curated exhibitions, seminars and watchmaking demonstrations. (www.salonQP.com)

20th – 24th: New York Art, Jewelry & Antique Show, Park Avenue Armory Antique and estate jewellery is showcased by preeminent exhibitors from across Europe, Asia and America. (www.nyfallshow.com) 21st – 28th March, 2016: Bejewelled Treasures; the Al Thani Collection, V&A, London Exploring the broad themes of tradition and modernity in Indian jewellery via spectacular pieces drawn from a single private collection. The exhibition will also look at the influence India had on avant-garde European jewellery. (www.vam.ac.uk)

Emily Nixon at Made Brighton

WHAT TO READ! Jewels of the Renaissance by Yvonne Hackenbroch (£130), Assouline

This is an abridged version of an original text by the Frankfurtborn Hackenbroch (1912 – 2012).

The book is arranged by country.

Starting in Italy, where the Renaissance style first emerged, it takes us through France, Germany, The Netherlands, England and Scotland before ending in Spain and Portugal.

Though it is published in New York with American spelling, the book’s perspective is decidedly European – and it is big on context.

A wide array of political, social and art history is clearly laid out. That it would make a fascinating read even without the plates is a tribute to the author and editors alike.

The author’s grasp of the Renaissance must have seemed like a natural progression to her: having worked at the British Museum both during WWII and afterwards, when she was part of the team that catalogued the Sutton Hoo treasure, Hackenbroch was already knowledgeable about the classical subjects to which some of the pieces in this book allude.

It is customary to write that a book of this kind is ‘beautifully

NEW

GIA Gem & Jewelry Career Center

produced’ and ‘lavishly illustrated’.

In this case both statements are true but, as so often with such tomes, the plates vary greatly in definition. Much is to be learned from some of the muddier plates however: the eye of an inquisitive reader can soon be drawn away from the jewels and into more fascinating excursions into the bigger picture. From the outer cover of the book (and again on page 259) stares a young, and very un-muddy Queen Elizabeth I 1533-1603, painted (miraculously)

by Paulus Moreelse; as her eyes follow you around the room, her expression is at once mistrustful, amused and… is that a glimmer of hope in her eyes? If only Paulus could tell. One does notice her jewellery. Eventually. The context is overwhelming.

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© The Trustees of the British Museum.

Jewels of the Renaissance

There are wonderful close-ups too, showing jewels and enamels in real detail and full colour, with a great variety of workmanship. Just as one is about to observe how often a jewel had primacy over the precision with which it was set – in ‘rubbing over’ and burnishing today’s setter has the same tools a Renaissance one did, but is far neater – suddenly, here is a 15th century necklace from the Spanish court, with 15 emeralds and 336 diamonds which could almost have been set by Cartier today. So, yes, do judge this book by its cover, and you will not be disappointed.

Christopher Hamilton

Get started today www.gia.edu/gem-job

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology™ 104 Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3LA, UK T +44 (0) 207 813 4321 • E gialondon@gia.edu Registered Charity No: 1101116

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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 63

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Having the

LAST WORD Appropriately, in our diamond feature issue, we have bestowed the Last Word on Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark and executive vice president of marketing of De Beers Group.

Personal profile Following four years working on the De Beers account at New York ad agency NW Ayers, Stephen moved across to the De Beers Consumer Marketing Division in London in 1985, as the market controller for the US and Canada. He progressed to assume responsibility in 1993 for the International Consumer and Marketing Division. He was made a Diamond Trading Company (DTC) director in 1995, appointed to the DTC Executive Committee in 2002, and became deputy to the DTC managing director in 2004. The following year he became executive director, External and Corporate Affairs De Beers, and took his current position in 2009.

As CEO Stephen Lussier has seen Forevermark grow into a global brand, with over 1,600 retail stores selling Forevermark diamonds across five continents.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

The biggest influence in my business life has been Harry Oppenheimer. HFO, as he was known within De Beers, was the long-time chairman of De Beers as well as Anglo American Corp and was probably the most impressive business leader I have had the opportunity to work with over the past 35 years. He taught me to always remain calm, to take the long-term view and most importantly how to motivate people to do more than even they thought they were capable of.

What led you to follow a career in the diamond industry?

When I joined the advertising agency NW Ayer in New York after finishing business school, I was assigned to the De Beers advertising account. That was 1981. That’s where my life in the diamond world began and still to this day I am fascinated by diamonds. As an ultimate luxury product, a diamond symbolises one’s deepest and most meaningful emotions – those that have the capability of transcending time and cultures.

66 THE JEWELLER OCTOBER 2015

What three words describe you best?

Calm, trusting and insightful.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

Without doubt it would be to spend time living in the Far East, particularly in China. I nearly had the opportunity in the mid 1980s but it didn’t come off then and in some ways I continue to regret it. While I have spent much time in China, travelling from London, it’s never quite the same thing as immersing yourself in the culture of such a fascinating country at such a time of dramatic change.

What in your view is the main issue facing the diamond industry currently?

One crucial issue it’s facing today is product commoditisation. We need to create substantially more product differentiation in order to excite consumers, and sustain the margin necessary for jewellers to create enticing in-store environments and invest in the marketing efforts necessary to compete with other wellfunded luxury goods categories.

Forevermark is born from that

assessment. Offering beautiful, rare and responsibly-sourced diamonds, we allow our jewellers to differentiate themselves from commoditised price-orientated, generic diamonds and online competitors. We recently launched in the UK and received a very positive response from consumers and trade.

If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? I’ve never longed to live in a different era or even very much reminisced about the past.

However, if I had to pick one era distinct from today it would be the 1960s in New York on Madison Avenue. It was a time filled with a mood of optimism, although on the verge of huge cultural change.

From an advertising standpoint, an era where one big idea could have enormous impact and literally change the world.

What’s your guiltiest pleasure?

Duncan Hines Chocolate Devil’s Foodcake. If I make the mistake of making one for my kids I usually find I’ve eaten half of it myself.

Favourite shopping destination?

You can’t beat Florence. It’s one

of the few cities where you can wander aimlessly on foot and ‘discover’ one extraordinary little shop after another. And fortunately at the end you can find a nice new leather bag to bring everything home in, as you invariably don’t have enough room in your luggage..

If not this one, what might your alternative career have been?

An art dealer probably. Once you work with diamonds it’s pretty hard to get excited by things which aren’t beautiful, enduring, and creative.

Do you Tweet?

Not personally but I closely follow our Forevermark Twitter account. Social media are now playing an important part in influencing consumers’ aspirations. Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest are all great channels to communicate interactively with our consumers, especially millennials.

What keeps you awake at night?

Not much!

QUICK FIRE • Cats or Dogs?

Dogs • Fish ’n’ chips or fruits de mer?

Fruits de mer, if I absolutely have to choose…

• Two wheels or four wheels?

Two wheels – Vespa • Jewellery on men?

(Yes or No?) Yes, I wear diamond cufflinks every day.

• Delegator or control freak?

Delegator.

• Paperback or e-reader?

E-reader

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