24 en

FREE

2015 AUGUST

vol. 24 Local News

The Ueno Summer Festival Parade

QUALITY REVIEW

Advanced Mechanical Pencils That Don’t Break and Produce Uniform Writing Article 9 of the Japanese Constitution

Ojiya, Niigata

Katakai Festival

【Feature】Tokyo

Tales for 2020 No. 1

The DaimyoTeien of Edo Q. What is a daimyo teien?

A. The ideal Edo period garden, combining form and function.

Hamarikyu Gardens Koishikawa Korakuen Rikugien

Shinji Isoya

An Autumn Day Spent in a Daimyo Teien, where my Appreciation for the Japanese Aesthetic was Born

Peter Frankl

● Rikugien in Paintings and Photographs ● Gardens Take Muscle to Maintain! ● Making the Most of Your Visit to a Daimyo Teien ● The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien

eng.jqrmag.com

vol.25 (published on august 25, 2015) C OV E R

Photography/Satoru Naito

C O N T E N T S 04

Local News

The Ueno Summer Festival Parade

05 Other Eyes and Ears

Vol.7 The Deliberate Misuse of “Positive Peace”

06【Feature】Tokyo Tales for 2020 No. 1

The Daimyo Teien of Edo Strolling through some of the capital's most beautiful gardens

Hamarikyu Gardens Koishikawa Korakuen Rikugien

16

Q. What is a daimyo teien?

24

● Rikugien in Paintings and Photographs ● Gardens Take Muscle to Maintain! ● Making the Most of Your Visit to a Daimyo Teien

30

An Autumn Day Spent in a Daimyo Teien, where my Appreciation for the Japanese Aesthetic was Born Peter Frankl

32 38 42

A. The ideal Edo period garden, combining form and function.

Shinji Isoya

●The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien QUALITY REVIEW

Advanced Mechanical Pencils That Don’t Break and Produce Uniform Writing Article 9 of the Japanese Constitution

Ojiya, Niigata

Katakai Festival

Editor-in-Chief

Jun Shinozuka

Editors

Jun Nakaki Mariko Hatada

Designer

Wakako Kawasaki

Web

Motoki Nakae

Translation

Manabiya Inc.

JQR editorial department

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-2270 JQR advertising department

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-4488

Guiding people around Japan Vol.2 A Handcrafted English-Language Map of the Old Tsukishima Alleyways An English-language map of alleyways on the island neighborhood of Tsukishima in Tokyo has won a prize in a contest sponsored by Walk21, an international organization that promotes the development of communities where people choose to live and walk. The map, designed by graduate architecture students studying community design at the Shibaura Institute of Technology, shows the alleyways of Tsukishima, a place where traces of the past are still strong. The students selected locations to label, which they illustrated and annotated, and also translated their work into English. They chose not only the usual tourist sites listed in guidebooks, but also favorite local landmarks, such as the old greengrocer.

Professor Hideaki Shimura, the students’ supervisor, said that the map is more than just a medium for conveying the charms of Tsukishima to overseas visitors. He believes it will also serve as a record of the area and its distinctive scenery, much of which will be lost in the redevelopment that will take place prior to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. The map is available, amongst other places, at the Tsukishima Monja Shinkokai and the Chuo Ward Tsukishima Library, and can be downloaded free from the Tsukishima Nagaya School website (http://www.

2015 vol.24 tsukishima.arc. shibaura-it.ac.jp).

3

Local News Enjoying Traditional Entertainment Events Across Japan

The Ueno Summer Festival Parade

ds Ears mon wor d n a m s gh co r Eye Othe ight throu ins tural l u c r e ~ Int

耳 異 異目 >>>

Vol.8

Other Eyes and Ears ~ Intercultural insight through common words

The Deliberate Misuse of “Positive Peace”

Photograph: Gary Cameron/Reuters

April 29 of this year. A standing

Japan itself) comes under armed

(which could be taken as referring to a

ovation!!

attack.” Well, that explains the standing

preemptive strike), while domestically,

In the first address ever by a Japanese

ovation in Congress—that “another

in Japanese, he used “proactive

citizen to a joint session of the United

nation” is none other than the United

pacifism,” a deliberate device (misuse).

States Congress, Prime Minister Shozo

States.

This is also a misuse of Galtung’s own

Abe had spoken for 50 minutes,

Wearing finery that includes beautiful dancing costumes and yukata, the troupes march down the area’s central street, showcasing a variety of entertaining performances. This colorful parade was the highlight of the festival.

T

he Ueno Summer Festival in Taito Ward, Tokyo is held every year around the Shinobazu Pond and Suijo lakefront concert hall area in Ueno Park. One major event during this month-long festival is the Ueno Summer Festival Parade that started in 1982 to commemorate the opening of the Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train line. Around thirty troupes come from around the country to perform dances and other traditional festival entertainment activities in the parade, which showcases gigantic Nebuta lanterns from Aomori and Kanto lanterns from Akita in the Tohoku region.

The 32nd festival was held this year on July 18, in rainy weather. Nevertheless, crowds of sightseers lined Ueno Chuo-dori to see the troupes, who came from as far away as Aomori in the north and Okinawa in the south, participate in the parade. Local residents joined overseas and domestic tourists to enjoy exciting, powerful performances that made everybody forget all about the summer heat and humidity.

4

2015 vol.24 vol.23

A Spanish couple who moved to Japan a year ago, they were in Ueno to see the parade.

These two friends, one from Canada and one from the U.S.A., have lived in Japan for over ten years and came specially to see this event.

The official Japanese translation of

definition.

bringing the assembled legislators to

the phrase from the Ministry of Foreign

Article 9 of the Japanese constitution

their feet no fewer than ten times with

Affairs is “Sekkyokuteki heiwa shugi,” or

is unusual in that it renounces war and

the power of his rhetoric. In particular,

“proactive pacifism.” The words

the use of force as a means of settling

twice during his speech he stressed the

originated with Professor Johan Galtung

international disputes, and does not

phrase “proactive contribution to

(1930~), known as “the father of peace

recognize the right of belligerency of

peace.”

studies,” as a way to define the

the state. It should be considered a

absence of war as “negative peace.”

global treasure. The Japanese people,

emphasize before the U.S. Congress,

He also proposed a “positive peace”

responsible for protecting this treasure,

Japan’s (military) ally, words that could

(1969) to describe a social system that

themselves have an obligation to be

be seen as implying a preemptive strike

is permanently without poverty,

proactive in keeping a careful eye on

against a perceived enemy attack. In

oppression, discrimination or structural

the developing political situation.

fact, in the midst of Japan’s debate

violence, an idea that brought about a

about collective self-defense, his

groundbreaking transformation in the

statement is in perfect agreement with

understanding of peace. Internationally,

the most important of three new

this is a well-known concept.

These are dangerous words to

conditions for allowing the use of force,

In this way, in his speech before the

adopted by the Japanese Cabinet on

U.S. Congress in English, aimed at

July 1 of last year: “In the event another

countries outside of Japan, Abe spoke

nation with close ties to Japan (not

of a “proactive contribution to peace,”

Source: Galtung-Institute

International business consultant. Global Human Development Japan, Senior Advisor.

Sisters from France on a trip through Japan thought themselves lucky when they visited Ueno for sightseeing and happened to hear about this event.

Two friends from Iran who have lived in Japan for about ten years came across the parade by chance on their way back from Akihabara.

HAMAJI Michio

After Keio University (Economics) in 1965, studied at the International Studies Institute before taking up a post in the Middle East affairs at a major Trading House. At the age of 45, moved to the information business in New York, to promote Japanese-US communications.

In 2002, chose the path of self-employment. Set up the Saudi Arabian pavilion at the Aichi Expo. Had worked on music videos of renowned L. Bernstein. Had advised Japan branch of US Cognizant and UK Pearson. Executive Coordinator of the Japan operation of French AtoS.

2015 vol.24

5

Step Through These Gates Back to Old Edo

Tokyo Tales for 2020 06

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

07

Hamarikyu Gardens 08

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

09

Koishikawa Korakuen

10

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

11

Rikugien 12

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

13

From the National Diet Library collection

Tokyo Tales for 2020 No. 1

Chiyoda no Ooku (“The Chiyoda Harem”) O-Hanami

The Daimyo Teien of Edo Strolling through some of the capital's most beautiful gardens Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association

(“Flower Viewing”) From the National Diet Library collection

Hamarikyu Gardens Koishikawa Korakuen Rikugien

“Tokyo Tales for 2020” is a semi-regular series showcasing the Japanese capital's myriad attractions ahead of the 2020 Olympics. With guidance from Tokyo Metro Senior Managing Director Murao Koichi (visiting professor at Tokyo Metropolitan University and Tokyo City University), JQR will report on 14

2015 vol.24

the day-to-day evolution of one of the world’s great cities.

15

A

Q What is a daimyo teien?

The ideal Edo period garden, combining form and function.

Shinji Isoya

During the Edo period, daimyo lords, who were required to split their time between their own domains and the capital city of Edo (Tokyo), competed to construct large gardens at their residences.

There were once a thousand such gardens, and though they disappeared in quick succession following the Meiji Restoration, even now a handful remain to evoke the atmosphere of the Edo period. Professor Shinji Isoya, a leading expert in landscape architecture, explains the origins and significance of daimyo teien, and the best ways to enjoy these priceless gardens.

Interview: JQR Photography: TomoyaTakai

16

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

17

A Perfect Balance of Scenery and Practicality Gives Daimyo Teien Their Incredible Allure

D

1600

aimyo teien are, as the

were used for socializing and

drive toward shokusan kogyo

Horaijima and Chikubujima, was both

name suggests, the teien

entertaining. Tea, alcohol and food

(increasing production, encouraging

the ocean and Lake Biwa. Recreations

10

(gardens) of the samurai

were served, and of course women

industry) Hamarikyu became the site for

of renowned beauty spots instantly

class. These are totally

gathered there as well. The garden was

historic sweet potato cultivation trials

recognizable to educated people, such

20

different to the garden of the priest, or

more than just a refined place to

by scholar and scientist Aoki Konyo.

as the Shiraito Falls at Mt. Fuji and

that of the noble, and most definitely

appreciate the scenery. It was the

Today we might call it industrial

Hangzhou's West Lake, were positioned

more than just superficially charming.

setting for political intrigue, and a place

promotion. In those days a statesman's

cleverly around the garden, though

Hamarikyu Gardens, for example, were

to enjoy diverse pleasures,

interest in the world had to encompass

naturally scaled-down due to space

originally the “seaside gardens” (hama

encapsulating the entirety of Edo-period

industry, culture, the arts, education

restrictions. These shrunken landscapes

no gyoen) of the shogun's coastal

culture.

and more. Thus the daimyo teien was a

are known as shukkei. Enclosed,

60

place for putting into practice all the

scaled-down visions of Eden are the

things that underpinned samurai

basis of Japan's particular approach to

70

society, an open space with a wide

garden design.

80

range of roles.

Rikugien, created almost 70 years after

90

residence. Hamarikyu has two duck ponds, known as Shinzeniza and Koshindo, which were used for duckhunting. There were also areas for horse-riding and archery. A warrior had to be battle-ready at all

Beauty in a Garden Arises from Practicality and Purpose

Essentially an Enclosure for a Scaled-Down Ideal

times, so honing one's martial skills was a routine part of daily life.

Therefore the gardens

Koishikawa Korakuen, contains scaleddown landscapes such as Deshio-nominato and Fujishiro-toge from the “Eighty-eight famous scenic spots” celebrated in the Manyoshu and Kokin Wakashu poetry anthologies. Rikugien

50

10 20 30

facilities of this sort.

with enclosing a space,

methodology identical to that of

Because the owner of

and in fact the English

Disneyland or Universal Studios: only

40

Hamarikyu constructed

word garden originally

the theme is different. In the embrace of

the garden with potential

refers to such an

his garden, its creator, cultured in

combat in mind, its

enclosure. The space is

things Japanese and Chinese, recreated

design and location also

enclosed using any one of

his ideal realm.

70

serve a strategic

a number of methods, such

purpose. Enclosed by a

as a stone wall, fence, or

80

solid stone wall, with a

moat. On the largest scale,

masugata double gate at

this could mean having

Creating Grand Vistas Connected to the Outside world

your garden surrounded by mountains. A microcosm in

Utilizing mountains, towers, etc. located

a basin, so to speak.

outside the garden as the main vistas

Edo Castle along the

Enclosure is a fundamental

of the garden, rather than simply part of

Yamashita moat and

requirement for any space

the general view, is a device known as

castle. Traveling from

Iemitsu

50 60

90

Hamarikyu Gardens

Ietsuna

Tsunayoshi

Ienobu Ietsugu Yoshimune

(Hama no Gyoen)

Mito Mitsukuni invites Ming Dynasty Completed Confucian scholar Zhu Zhiyu to visit; on Mitsukuni's orders Zhu chooses the name “Korakuen”

1654

Established as seaside home of the Kofu clan lords

Rikugien

Visit by shogun Tsunayoshi's mother Keishoin. Tsunayoshi removes most of the large and strangelyshaped rocks from the paths for easier

Becomes shogunal villa, dubbed the Hamagoden or “ seaside residence”

1695 Completed

Tokugawa Yoshimune adds a textile workshop, sugar factory, saltworks, blacksmith's forge, and medicinal herb garden

Over 700 large trees are felled

Visit by shogun Tsunayoshi's daughters Tsuruhime and Mai-hime

Elephant gifted to the shogun arrives from Nagasaki, and is kept on grounds for several years

Ieshige

Ieharu Extensive alterations carried out, including construction of the Shiraito Falls, starting in the time of 6th lord Harumori

Ienari

Completed

Duckponds extended with addition of the Shinzeniza pond

10

Shogun Ienari's official wife Kodaiin visits and enjoys fishing

20

Pond dries up

Abandoned for 20 years

1800

Restoration work carried out over a year

30

down the Tsukiji River to the boat

Crucial to the culture of landscape

in which human beings are going to

shakkei. Whenever human beings find

landing, in an emergency one would

architecture is the harmony of utility

feel secure. This is why Japan's ancient

themselves enclosed, a desire to

have been able to access the open sea.

and scenery. By utility we mean

capitals were all situated in basins.

connect to the outside arises. People

In other words, the garden is designed

practicality, and by scenery, the

So we take a space, enclose and

living in Japan’s Edo-period isolation

50

to facilitate flight if the shogun was

garden's visual qualities, such as the

secure it, and build our ideal world, our

dreamed of foreign lands. During the

trapped.

attractive nature of its vistas. Aiming for

Eden, inside.

feudal period, the day-to-day lives and

60

Iemochi

That said, samurai were not constantly

a balance between and consideration

What constitutes that ideal has varied

social behavior of the daimyo were also

70

Yoshinobu

spoiling for a fight. They prepared

for these things is fundamental to

over the centuries. In ancient times

in a sense psychologically enclosed.

themselves for both war and peace,

garden design, and this holds true for

people kept things simple with the

This applied even to the shogun, and

with the skills to achieve their aims

all gardens. Beauty can only emerge

worship of gods and buddhas. In the

Tokugawa Ienari (1773-1841) visited

through diplomatic hospitality as well

from the unity of utility and scenery.

early modern period, having begun to

his “seaside garden” frequently for rest

as battle. Gardens were highly prized

When it comes to daimyo teien, utility

acquire economic clout and technical

and recreation, as a respite from the

as settings for such diplomacy.

was not only military. Hamarikyu

ability, people started to build the

stifling nature of his duties. Freed from

Hamarikyu Gardens include the

encompassed medicine, food and

worlds and landscapes to which they

other cares Ienari found the energy to

Nakajima-no-Ochaya (Island Teahouse)

agriculture as well, with a medicinal

aspired. For example, Koishikawa

father 53 offspring. This must be the

and Matsu-no-Ochaya (Pine Teahouse)

herb garden, vegetable garden, plum

Korakuen includes famous sightseeing

greatest testament to the restorative

plus the recently restored Tsubame-no-

trees, tea field, and rice paddies on the

destinations from Japan and China.

powers of gardens (laughs). You may

Ochaya (Swallow Teahouse), which

grounds. And in the spirit of the later

Daisensui Pond, containing the islands

think I jest, but no, not entirely. Many

2015 vol.24

Koishikawa Korakuen

1629

1700

is a waka poem theme park, its

In Professor Shinji's opinion, viewing Japanese gardens through the lens of Zen or wider Buddhist thought has the opposite effect of making them hard to understand. Any discussion of gardens, he says, must start by acknowledging that first and foremost, they are places to be enjoyed.

Hidetada

40

Creating a garden starts

has the trappings of a

Ieyasu

30

were equipped with

the entrance, Hamarikyu

18

The Tokugawa Shoguns and Daimyo Teien of Edo

40

Ieyoshi

Iesada

Naval officer school transferred from Tsukiji

The daimyo teien occupied extensive sites, and took many years to construct. Koishikawa Korakuen was constructed in 1629 by Tokugawa Yorifusa, founder of the Mito branch of the Tokugawa clan, at his secondary (later main) residence in Edo. Work on the garden was completed by the second lord of the domain, Mitsukuni. Hamarikyu Gardens began life as the shogun's falconry range, then in 1654 was gifted by Tokugawa Ietsuna, the fourth shogun, to his younger brother Matsudaira Tsunashige, who reclaimed land and built a villa there.

Further landscaping and alterations were carried out by various shoguns over the centuries, until the garden had largely acquired its present-day form by the time of the eleventh shogun, Tokugawa Ienari. Rikugien was constructed over a period of seven years by Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu, on land gifted in 1695 by the fifth shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi.

2015 vol.24

19

view gardens as cultural assets that

have been carefully incorporated into

lone pines or 300-year pines, with a

important, so weeding is carried out,

should simply be preserved, but this

the composition of the landscape.

distinctive, perfect “tree-like” shape.

and the growth of trees restricted. This

makes no sense. Gardens have life

The wonder of daimyo teien is the way

Then there are the groves of trees that

has led to the development of

histories of their own. Study that history

their beauty is rendered complete by

collectively form a single landscape.

techniques for pruning and training, and

and you will come to understand the

the inclusion of the outside landscape

For example, Koishikawa Korakuen's

topiary. The beauty of the Japanese

workings of society and state, moving

as shakkei.

Daisensui Pond was made to look like

garden is also a beauty maintained by

between cultures, eras, and societies in

Just imagine that scene. Grand,

the sea, so the stands of pine around

human hands.

order to comprehend the big picture.

breathtaking, like a scroll unfurled. This

the pond are black pine.

Finally we come to ground cover, or in

Back to the topic at hand. The siting of

highly artistic landscape, in harmony

The plantings on the higher ground at

other words, lawn. Lawns have been

a garden is hugely influential. The

with nature, has been destroyed by

Koishikawa are red pine, but arranged

used since the Heian era, but became

garden here was once even more

today's careless rush to erect high-rise

to resemble a coastal scene with black

a common feature of daimyo teien

impressive than it appears today,

buildings. These tall structures in the

pines. Lastly there is the dense cluster

during the Edo period. They were not

because the high-rises erected around

background reduce the value of the

of trees that surrounds the garden,

used much in the old gardens of Kyoto,

it have seriously devalued the

shogun's seaside retreat to less than a

enclosing it. A wall of green isolates

where moss was preferred. Daimyo

landscape.

thousandth what it was in the Edo

the garden from the outside world,

teien have large expanses of sunny

For instance, looking over Shioiri Pond

period. Japan's proud, priceless early

rendering it a separate, microcosmic

open space, allowing garden designers

from the Pine Teahouse, one sees an

modern culture is being lost.

space.

to include lawns as they please.

artificial Mt. Fuji made from a pile of earth. Compared to the buildings behind it does not seem especially Fuji-like, but in the Edo period, it did look like Mt. Fuji. If the area in front of the pond was the foreground, the Mt. Fuji in the garden was in the middle distance, and

Verdant Trees Dominate, While Flowering Trees and Autumn Tints Showcase the Seasons

While trees such as these dominate the bones of the garden, flowering trees and those with striking autumn colors offer seasonal highlights. These are trees such as ume plum, cherry, rhododendrons, wisteria, hydrangeas

Devices to Help Visitors Experience Time in the Gardens in Different Ways

and trees with vibrant autumn foliage.

Daimyo teien incorporate various

in the far distance, fleets of sailing

The stars of any garden are inevitably

Japanese gardens are based on natural

devices – both short and long in

boats would have bobbed in the waters

the trees. There is a certain beauty

landscapes. The laurel forests nurtured

duration – to cleverly manipulate time

off Shinagawa. Towering beyond that

unique to a decades- or centuries-old

by Asian monsoons provide lush

so that visitors get maximum enjoyment

would have been the real Mt. Fuji.

stand of trees.

backdrops. Thanks to high humidity and

out of the landscape.

The foreground, middle distance,

Dominating the garden are the most

temperatures, plants grow quickly.

One example of a short-time device is

background, and far distance would

picturesque standalone trees such as

Maintaining the vistas of a garden is

the garden path. Walking through

Th e S to n e Wa ll a n d Moat E nc l osi ng th e Ga rd en The seaside residence served a similar purpose to the outer bastions of Edo castle, so the main gate was a boxshaped masugata gate built from large komatsuishi (andesite) rocks.

This was indeed a battle-ready garden.

S u rp risin g Co n tra st s and E ffe c t s

Koishikawa Korakuen, one encounters The interview was conducted in the Pine Teahouse at Hamarikyu Gardens. In the Edo period, across Shioiri Pond one could see the sailboats off Shinagawa, and Mt. Fuji further in the distance.

great complexity: stepping stones, forks in the path, climbs uphill, and descents to the pond. The path is carefully designed so that the scenery changes in step with the progress made in the direction of travel, like a film unfolding.

If a large stepping stone has been set in place, one naturally comes to a stop and takes in the texture of the ground cover, and from there savors the picturesque nature of the pond, islands, waterfall and so on. To help the visitor savor the psychological shift between motion and stillness, the curvature of the path, that is, the pitch and minimum radius of how it bends, is designed in response to the topography, so for instance a walker will struggle up steep slopes and then regain their breath by progressing sedately round the water's edge, Similarly, the surface underfoot changes from paving to stepping stone, then to the wider nobedan path, tiles, gravel and bare earth. An examination of the stepping stones furthermore reveals that they stop or take a sharp turn after nine or twelve steps. One never follows the same direction for any distance. It may be possible to walk briskly along a

The inner garden in front of the Mito clan nakayashiki before entering Koishikawa Korakuen (photo top) Beyond the two bridges once stood a large Chinese-style gate.

Through the gate was Korakuen, and an area inspired by the old Kisoji trade route through Nagano and Gifu Prefectures. Walking through a dense grove of trees (photo center), one eventually arrives at Daisensui Pond (photo bottom).

Visitors are surprised to suddenly emerge from a dark mountain path and be greeted by a vast expanse of water, and a meticulously rendered, vibrantly-hued garden.

gravel path, but stepping stones require cautious, single steps. If a person

20

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

21

of Shadows. The same goes for the view from a teahouse, or under eaves in the garden. Whether the sun is beating

Ga zin g u p a t “S ta r” T r e e s

down, or rain soaks the ground, wide eaves make for a beautiful sight. The soul-piercing nature of a garden shrouded in misty rain may be attributed to Japanese architecture.

Then there is the term wabi-sabi, which for ease of understanding I describe to people overseas as “the aesthetics of aging”, or beauty fostered by the passing of time. The character for sabi is also found in words for nature and natural, and means what is right or proper: becoming completely and utterly like nature with the passing of time. A garden is an artificial creation, so at

Garden vistas are often centered on distinctive old or famous trees, such as the 300-year-old pine of Hamarikyu, the “lone pine” of Koishikawa Korakuen (see photo), and the weeping cherry of Rikugien. Each tree is a dominant player in its garden, with a story to tell.

first it is new, and hard to relax in. How does it turn into something identical to nature? Time.

In Japan one can't get away with just slapping on a coat of paint. The English speak of weathered beauty, meaning

S tu d y in g , Cro ssin g , and Savor i ng S tep p in g S to n es

the look acquired by something that fades and discolors through sun or rain, helping it blend into the surroundings.

Pale wood exposed to rain and dew gradually becomes drained of color and takes on a grayish hue. This is what the Japanese aim for. The pale wood of the According to Professor Shinji, Hamarikyu's best feature is its gentle horizontal lines. Horizontally-constructed buildings, the horizontal feel of bridges and the surface of Daisensui Pond give the shogun's garden scenery a sense of unity.

newly-renovated Swallow Teahouse is lovely, but that beauty is not yet integrated in the landscape. Once time and exposure to rain and wind have

22

walking along a city street covers 1.3

sunsets, as well as nightfall. On top of

of these increments of time, at the

meters of ground per second, on a

a hill, or by the pond? The angle and

same time the designers of Japanese

garden path they would slow down to

state of the sunrise and sunset are also

gardens have endeavored to capitalize

about 0.7 meters. Varying the path

important.

on the changes that take place slowly

offers walkers different ways to enjoy

Then there are the four seasons.

over long periods: ten, a hundred, or a

walking and take in the sights.

Japanese hanafuda playing cards

thousand years, in the same manner

The sound we make when walking also

depict flora and fauna from January to

that the Chinese speak of “ten years for

changes according to the surface. In

December. Plants and flowers, e.g.,

a vista, a century for scenery, a

the past people wore wooden geta

wisteria and hototogisu (lesser cuckoo)

millennium for a landscape”.

(clogs) or straw sandals. Footsteps

for April, bush clover and wild boar for

produce a tune of their own, with

July, are combined with events to

different beats for different individuals,

convey a sense of the seasons.

providing rhythmic accompaniment for

Plantings in Japanese gardens make

our circuit of the garden. The tempo

use not of green to red or white, but

Teahouse architecture is an essential

and movements of the body play out,

subtle seasonal changes reflected in

component of the daimyo teien. For

supplemented by changes in sound and

shades of green. Plants sprout, develop

example, when eaves are wide, deep

scenery. The path possesses a rhythm

new shoots, change from bright new

shadows form, while light reflected in

conducive to enjoying the landscape,

growth to a deeper green, then yellow

the pond flickers delightfully on the

consisting of subtle changes in time.

or red, and lose their leaves. Conifers

ceiling of the eaves. Wide eaves make

Following these subtle alterations in

are positioned behind to highlight the

for light outside and darkness within.

time are morning and night. Lanterns

period from autumn color change to

There is a middle ground with five or six

and torches are employed in ingenious

leaves falling.

gradations of shade, as described by

ways to show off beautiful sunrises and

And while showcasing the accumulation

Tanizaki Junichiro in his essay In Praise

2015 vol.24

Praising Shadows and the Aesthetics of Aging

turned the pale wood gray and brown and covered the roof in lichen, that is when we will feel admiration. In my view, the distinctive feature of the

Garden paths take many different forms. Stepping stones crossed cautiously step by step offer visual enjoyment in their arrangement, as do variations in walking speed and length of stride.

Japanese garden, its ultimate value, lies in the aesthetics of time and history, in the beauty of aging.

Profile

The aesthetic of time is akin to the

Shinji Isoya

accumulation of tree rings. The spread and lift of tree roots, mossy rocks, stone lanterns with curly appendages missing.

Falling-down teahouses and dining rooms. The extraordinary, everchanging, enchanting scenes manifested when the light and breeze of each season are added to this mix. It is within all of this that we live our lives. Please make the time to visit an Edo garden, and enjoy for yourself this wonderful atmosphere, these captivating scenes.

Nihon no Teien (“Gardens of Japan”) (Chuko Shinsho)

Doctor of Agriculture. Scholar of landscape architecture.

President of the Tokyo University of Agriculture from 1999-2005.

Has at various times chaired the Japanese Institute of Landscape Architecture, City Planning Institute of Japan, and International Society for Southeast Asian Agricultural Sciences. Professor Emeritus at the Tokyo University of Agriculture.

Awarded the Medal with Purple Ribbon in 2007, and the MIDORI Academic Prize in 2015. Books include “No” no Jidai (“The Age of Agriculture”) (Gakugei Shuppansha), Nihon Teien no Tokushitsu - Yoshiki, Kuukan, Keikan (“Characteristics of Japanese Gardens: Styles, Spaces, Vistas”) (Tokyo Nodai Shuppankai), Nihon no Teien – Zokei no Waza to Kokoro (“Gardens of Japan – the Technique and Soul of Scenery Building”) (Chuo Koron Shinsha).

2015 vol.24

23

1704 Rikugien-no-zu Source: National Diet Library

1905 Photo of Nakanoshima Seikado Bunko collection

2015 Photo of Nakanoshima

Still Going Strong After 320 Years!

Rikugien in Paintings and Photographs 24

2015 vol.24

This painting and photographs from

1705. Nakanoshima appears to have

family invited the triumphant returning

down the years featuring the island of

been almost bare of trees, the garden's

soldiers to a victory celebration at

Nakanoshima on Rikugien's Daisensui

twinned hills standing out in stark relief.

Rikugien. Note the abundance of trees

Pond show how the garden's landscape

Most daimyo teien disappeared at the

and dense foliage on Nakanoshima.

has changed over time. The painting is

end of the Edo period, but Rikugien was

Lastly, 2015. Work has been carried

part of a trio of Rikugien scrolls painted

purchased as a second home in 1878

out on Nakanoshima to restore a more

by Kano Tsunenobu and his sons

by Iwasaki Yataro. The next photo was

manicured look.

Chikanobu and Minenobu and gifted to

taken in the year the Russo-Japanese

the Sento Imperial Palace in August

War ended (1905) when the Iwasaki 2015 vol.24

25

Gardens Take Muscle to Maintain!

Trees and flowers grow, fall and decay...

A Gardener's Work is Never Done.

Perfectly-manicured vistas are the norm

stay healthy is an essential aspect of

whenever you visit a daimyo teien.

the job. For the gardeners, every day is

According to Rikugien gardener Koichi

a battle with the restless seasons,

Nemoto, maintaining those lovely vistas

dealing with everything from weather

“requires constant work, with no room

events, such as typhoons and snow, to

for delay”.

insect infestations caused by global

For example, in the month after the

warming.

of the plants, while at the same time carrying out other tasks like removing new shoots from pine trees and making

Gardeners wear traditional work clothes

constant race to keep up with nature.

the waist over underwear, and roomy work

autumn and winter, but this actually happens throughout the year. Blown by the wind into ponds and rivers, leaves accumulate at the bottom, contaminating the water, and producing an unpleasant odor, particularly during hot weather. Koishikawa Korakuen gardener Hiroshi Kimura and his team must therefore dredge the river on a monthly basis to avoid visitors being We asked Kimura to dress in uniform for our photo. His tools hang at the back from his waist.

Gardener's uniform and tools designed primarily for comfort and convenience: a harakake apron with pockets at

dropping leaves, most obviously in

Annually, from April to late May

In spring, five to ten new shoots or “candles” grow out of each pine branch. To maintain the shape of the tree, these must be plucked off by hand while still pliable. Rikugien gardener Nemoto Koichi says gardeners

the direction in which shoots are growing, they decide which to leave and which to pine.

Garden maintenance

tangling in vegetation. Footwear consists of indigo blue split-toed tabi that allow the wearer to feel the ground underneath, and grip well.

Then, a traditional jacket.

Finally, wrist and hand guards.

Kimura notes, “In the old days they used to say

Trimming

Trimming is necessary for the maintenance of

Secateurs

artificial features such as hedges. It is

Used for leaves, and branches up to little finger thickness

Each daimyo teien has dedicated

Used for branches up to thumb width

particularly important to trim trees such as rhododendrons attractively to stop them growing too large, and to maintain a good balance with the surroundings. Each tree has Shears are used to trim spherical topiaries. The trick is to use one hand as a support, and cut with the other. When done attractively, the result is a well-groomed landscape.

the year on maintaining and managing His wrists are well-protected by fabric wrist guards.

the garden. The gardens contain centuries-old trees and herbaceous plants with attractive seasonal displays,

3

Annually,from late April to June

no wrist guards, no pay. I suppose wrists were easily injured.”

Pruning shears

In spring, pines burst with new growth (photo top left). Gardeners decide which shoots to leave, and remove the others individually by hand (photo top left). The result is a tree with a tidy shape.

remove, taking two to three hours for each

trousers pulled in below the knee to avoid legs

assailed by bad smells. gardeners on-site working throughout

Removing New Growth

about how they want it to develop. Identifying

unexpected repairs to paths. It's a Then there is the nuisance of trees

2

evaluate the shape of the tree, and think

rhododendrons have finished flowering, gardeners at Rikugien prune a thousand

Garden maintenance

Pruning saw

its own season for trimming: rhododendrons, for example, sprout new buds for the coming spring about a month after flowering ends, so the key is to clip them in that intervening month to avoid inadvertently removing buds.

Used to sever thick branches

and monitoring these to ensure they Garden maintenance

1

Garden maintenance

Cleaning out Ponds and Rivers

4

Thinning

A monthly event, 2-3 times a month in summer

Annually, from October to March

Despite Tokyo’s high level of rainfall,

Pines like the sun, so going into winter any

maintaining an adequate water supply to the

tangled branches and unnecessary foliage are

gardens is difficult, and at Koishikawa Korakuen

removed to give the whole tree access to

well water is used.

maximum sunlight. First, thinning is carried

Differences in river shape modify the flow of

out: any surplus branches are identified and

water, and water temperature rises in shallow

cut off. Then any older needles that are

spots where the flow is slower. This makes the river dirty, requiring dredging of the riverbed.

Carried out monthly even in midwinter, it is one of the most important jobs in the garden.

changing color or dead are removed. The Gardeners use rakes to collect and remove algae (photo left) and fallen leaves stuck to the bottom, then stir up the riverbed to wash away any smaller debris. This process (photo right) is repeated until the river is clean, taking eight people half a day to complete.

state of foliage on each branch is checked before pruning. A delicate job requiring a lot of patience, work on a large pine can take a

A pine with new needles loses its neat silhouette (photo top right). Excess branches and shoots are removed (photo top left), then any old needles are plucked off by hand (photo left).

whole month.

26

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

27

The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien

Events

Making the Most of Your Visit to a Daimyo Teien

Daimyo teien are the scene of many different activities throughout the year, offering great opportunities to take part in important events not usually part of the garden experience.

Dates vary each year, so it pays to contact the gardens in advance.

Don't make it just about the views: here are some ways to get the most out of your visit to a daimyo teien.

January

Chiyoda no Ooku Funa-Asobi (“Boating”) National Diet Library collection

Floral calendar

March

Daimyo teien are a riot of flowers blooming all year round, each at its finest for only a brief moment.

Encountering this fleeting beauty is an unforgettable delight.

Hamarikyu

Rikugien

3

October

10

January 2 and 3 *Canceled if wet Location Hamarikyu Gardens Inner moat grounds Cost Free (entrance fee for garden) Falcons are released, demonstrating a traditional technique used in falconry

● Weeping cherry illuminations Approximately a fortnight from around March 20 * Garden open to 21:00 for duration Rikugien Free (entrance fee for garden) View beautiful weeping cherries against the night sky

Falconry demonstration Hamarikyu Gardens

Weeping cherry illuminations Rikugien

● Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony October 10-11, 2015 Hamarikyu Gardens Tea ceremony 700 yen 300 yen (entrance fee for gardens) Apply for tea service on a return postcard or online (applications close August 31) Other events run on a first-come, first served basis Large-scale tea ceremony featuring tea service, open-air tea ceremony, tea ceremony for beginners

Contact ● Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony office 03-6268-8602 http://tokyo-grand-tea-ceremony2015.jp Weeping cherry from late March

Kobushi magnolia

November

11

● Edo-senke outdoor tea ceremony

Autumn illuminations Rikugien November 3 From 11am Koishikawa Korakuen Pine grove *Venue change to Kantokutei if wet Free (entrance fee for garden) 30 participants each tea ceremony; first-come, first served Tea service demonstration and tasting Enjoying Matcha courtesy of the Edo-senke tea ceremony school Teahouse

「Free park entry dates」

● Autumn illuminations

Fortnight from around November 20 *Garden open to 21:00 for duration Rikugien Free (entrance fee for garden) View stunning autumn tints and gardens against the night sky

Rhododendron indicum azalea

apanese azalea and Kirishima azalea

Magnolia grandiflora

Crape myrtle

4

15〜21

November Hamarikyu Gardens/Rikugien Free (entrance fee for gardens) All welcome on the day Watch gardeners use rope and wire in the time-honored fashion to protect pines from winter frost and snow

Occasional events

5 9

● Snow preparations

Occasional events

（

10

1

“Midori no Hino Hi」 “Seniors' week” * Free entry for one person 60 or over and companion

“Residents' day”

● Dine like a Shogun

at a

Daimyo teien were also used by the shogun and daimyo lords for entertaining. They would take in the views and entertain guests by sharing delicious dishes and (alcoholic) drinks at the teahouse.

Taking a moment to stop by a teahouse and imagine those long-ago scenes is another delight of the daimyo teien. Matcha tea and traditional wagashi confections are served at the Nakajima Teahouse at Hamarikyu Gardens, and the Fukiage Chaya teahouse at Rikugien.

Dates to be advised Hamarikyu Gardens * Contact Hamarikyu Gardens to inquire A chance to sample dishes that would have been eaten by shogun Tokugawa Ienari

● Park tours by directors *Contact individual gardens for information Hamarikyu Gardens /Koishikawa Korakuen/Rikugien Free (entrance fee for garden) First in on the day, up to capacity The park director will provide a commentary on the history, plantings, etc. while showing visitors around the garden.

Dine like a shogun Hamarikyu Gardens

Contact ● Hamarikyu Gardens 03-3541-0200 ● Koishikawa Korakuen 03-3811-3015 ● Rikugien 03-3941-2222

（ （ Maple ） Autumn tints

Japanese wax tree ） Autumn tints

Idesia polycarpa ） Autumn tints

Japanese beautyberry

Maple

Japanese wax tree

Leopard plant

Ginkgo

Sasanqua camellia

Cluster amaryllis

Bush clover

Fox's razor

Ear of rice

Bush clover

Cosmos

Cluster amaryllis

Bracted hydrangea

Lotus

Crape myrtle

Pollia japonica

Mitsuba azalea and enkianthus perulatus

Kerria japonica

Hydrangea

Yamazakura (hill cherry) Hydrangea

Yoshino cherry

Cherry blossoms

hortensia

Iris

Rice planting

Wisteria

Iris japonica

Gold-banded lily

Yellow cosmos

Crape myrtle

Chinese trumpet vine

Japanese bellflower

Waterlily

Large flowered barrenwort

cornus officinalis

Plum trees

Camellia

Wintersweet

Camellia

Plum trees

Adonis ramosa

Wintersweet

Rhododendron

Peony

Wisteria

2015 vol.24

Maple

28

Hydrangea

December

Japanese wax tree

November

Yaezakura (double cherry blossom)

October

Cluster amaryllis

September

Cotton rosemallow

August

Iris

July

Rhododendron indicum azalea

June

Hanamomo (ornamental peach)

Yoshino cherry

May

Yulan magnolia

Rape flowers

March

April

Koishikawa Korakuen

Daffodils

February

Plum trees

Wintersweet

January

1

● Falconry demonstration

Restoration of the Hamarikyu Gardens Swallow Teahouse In May of this year the Swallow Teahouse (Tsubame-no-Ochaya) was restored. One of five teahouses from Tokugawa Ienari's time, built in 1800 and destroyed by American bombers in 1944, the Swallow Teahouse has now been restored using recreations of the 24 different swallowshaped copper nail covers from which the teahouse gets its name. Using historical resources for reference, the building has been faithfully returned to its original look, with the wide eaves typical of sukiyastyle shoin buildings, white plaster exterior walls, and a shingled roof using 3 mm-thick cypress.

At only 60 m², the building is surprisingly compact.

In the center is a slightly elevated section of tatami where the shogun would have sat.

29

My Memory of Daimyo Teien

Still entranced 30 years later!

An Autumn Day Spent in a Daimyo Teien, where my Appreciation for the Japanese Aesthetic was Born Mathematician Peter Frankl left his native Hungary and traveled the world, eventually coming to Japan for what he assumed would be his first and last visit. He ended up deciding to settle there permanently.

One reason was the beauty he encountered during his first visit to a daimyo teien (a garden formerly belonging to a daimyo lord).

Interview/JQR Photography/Satoru Naito

I

first came to Japan 30

In the autumn of 1986 I returned to

Kumamoto and Senganen (Iso Teien) in

years ago, at the

Japan, this time bringing my parents,

Kagoshima.

invitation of the University

and spent four weeks showing them

Every daimyo teien I visited was

of Tokyo. Assuming this

around a country I had fallen in love

beautiful. The Japanese are very

visit to the country would also be my

with. We travelled to Kenrokuen in

particular about their work, right down

last, I decided to have a good look

Kanazawa, Okayama Korakuen, and

to tightening the last screw. That

around, and with a two-week JR pass in

Ohori Park in Fukuoka, and my parents

attention to detail is also evident in how

hand, set my sights on Fukuoka. Along

were as impressed as I had been by the

they care for their gardens. Obviously,

the way, I got off at Okayama Station

red of the maples. The Japanese kanji

being gardens, leaves grow and fall

and took a tram to Okayama Korakuen.

word for momiji (maple) – consisting of

from the trees. Occasionally a typhoon

Autumn was well underway, and there

the characters for “tree” and “flower”

blows through and snaps off branches.

were pots holding a spectacular display

– is a testament to the Japanese ability

Nevertheless, the daimyo teien are

of chrysanthemums near the gate. The

to create new words.

always immaculately tended. Even the

maple trees were stunning in their

I subsequently went on to visit other

irises, which put on such a lovely

scarlet splendor. Every scenic spot in

gardens, including Shukkeien in

display in the rainy season, only bloom

this, my first daimyo teien, was

Hiroshima, Ritsurin Garden in

so beautifully because in Japan people

wonderful, and I was entranced by it all.

Takamatsu, Suizenji Jojuen in

spend time looking after them. The

Peter Frankl enjoying high summer at Rikugien. On this day he bursting with praise for his verdant surroundings.

gardens maintain a high standard of

didn't realize there were daimyo teien

beauty because people put in so much

in Tokyo as well. The first one I learned

effort, day after day. This is also one of

of was Hamarikyu. Part of the attraction

the reasons I found myself liking Japan.

was being able to cruise on the Sumida

Non-Japanese with no Interest in Autumn Tints don't Know the Japanese Autumn

River down to Asakusa after looking at the gardens, and I took various people there, including a German mathematician and a foreign TV crew.

Next was Koishikawa Korakuen. A Hungarian friend came to Japan, and

Apparently it is often said that non-

one day said he had been out to

Japanese have no interest in autumn

Koishikawa Korakuen by himself. He

tints, but if so, it can only be because

was delighted by the place, and

they have never seen the autumn colors

amazed that I didn't know about it. So

of Japan. When I first arrived here it

he invited me to go there with him.

was early September and the heat was

What an incredible urban oasis. Once

stifling, and when lecturers at the

I'd succeeded in blocking out the

university made comments like “Just

high-rises in the background, the leafy

wait until mid-October and the autumn

landscape right in front of me became

tints will begin” or “The color of gingko

the perfect place for some time out. I

leaves changes quickly”, I responded

can't write waka or haiku poetry, but I

with a neutrally polite “Aa so desu ka”

do like to sit in a teahouse taking in the

(laughs). The thing was, back in

view and pondering my life and what I

Hungary I had seen plenty of leaves

want to do with it. Daimyo teien are

turn gold then quickly fall, so at that

marvelous places for young couples to

point I had no interest at all. Then I

go on a date, and where I invariably

went to the aforementioned Okayama

sense that singularly Japanese view of

Korakuen, and found the maples there a

beauty.

fiery red, and moreover, every single

Obviously there are gardens in other

leaf beautifully and delicately rendered

countries too, but they have a slightly

down to the tiniest detail. Forming a

different sensibility. The Palace of

contrast to the surrounding greenery,

Versailles, the châteaux of the Loire

they make a garden shine, and exude a

valley: these places also have well-

dignified air. Even travelers from

maintained gardens, but the trees are

overseas would be excited and intrigued

all pruned into the same shapes, to

by autumn tints if those tints were the

boost the value of the castle. The trees

vibrantly-colored, well-proportioned

are not for the garden, but to make the

autumn foliage of Japan. The only

castle look more attractive.

problem is that Europeans take their

Britain is the part of Europe with the

holidays in summer, making it hard to

most gardens. In France, Spain and

take a long break in autumn and come

Italy the summer sun is too intense and

to Japan. It’s a real pity.

lawns dry out. In Britain, on the other

Relaxing Meditatively while Contemplating the View

hand, it rains a lot, keeping things

I wish guidebooks would list gardens like Koishikawa Korakuen and Rikugien as places where you can enjoy the seasonal variety of Japan and understand Japanese aesthetics.

verdant. Being further north however, Britain doesn't have as many varieties of tree or colors of foliage as Japan.

Japan has a temperate, wet climate, and so many different varieties of tree, in brilliant colors. The new growth from when the cherry blossoms fall in early summer to the festival of Obon is simply stunning. Because flowers bloom for a long time in Japan, some may find gardens boring without them. But that is not the case. Here at Rikugien, it may be late July, but the different gradations of green are incredibly vivid and a sight to behold.

Daimyo teien are a proud and precious part of Japanese culture, and in my view a must-see for any visitor to Japan.

When I first started living in Japan, I

Profile

Peter Frankl

(Japanese name: Furan Heita) Mathematician and street performer. Member of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences.

Honorary advisor to the Japan Juggling Association.

30

2015 vol.24

Born in 1953 in Hungary. In 1979 was exiled to France. In 1982 made his first trip to Japan.

Settled in Japan permanently in 1988. Speaks twelve languages, and has visited over 100 countries. Tirelessly gives talks on ways to make life more fun. His first book is titled Kazu ni Tsuyoku Naro (“Getting Better with Numbers”) (Iwanami Junior Shinsho).

2015 vol.24

31

The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien

Hamarikyu Gardens

As you enter through the Otemon gate and walk along, the sky overhead seems improbably vast for the center of a city. Breezes from Tokyo Bay waft through a beautiful garden ringed with greenery and flowers. This garden had its beginnings in 1654 when the fourth shogun, Ietsuna Tokugawa, gave the land to his younger brother, Tsunashige Matsudaira, who was chancellor of the Kofu Domain.

Matsudaira had the reed-covered foreshore area filled and built a villa called the Kofu Hama Yashiki (Kofu beach residence) there. A series of extensions were carried out and by the time of the eleventh shogun, Ienari Tokugawa, the gardens were completed and were known as Hama Gyoen (beachside imperial gardens).

After the Meiji revolution it became an Imperial villa known as Hamarikyu (beachside detached palace). The tidal pond, one of its main attractions, is maintained through tidal seawater from Tokyo Bay. For a pleasant experience walk across the pond on Otsutaibashi Bridge and take a rest in the teahouse on the island to enjoy the beautiful view. An impressive three-hundred-year pine planted by the sixth shogun, Ienobu Tokugawa, is another sight not to be missed.

The Edo atmosphere may be long gone, but you can still enjoy the mysterious charm of another time in this elegant garden surrounded by high-rise buildings.

DATA

A map of the villa and grounds drawn 210 years ago in the Edo period (from the Tokugawa Forestry Management History Research Institute collection). It shows that there was an official’s residence and guardhouse next to the Otemon gate.

The villa of Enryokan was built as a state guest house on the same spot in 1869.

Shiodome River Mount Fuji viewing hill

Nakanohashi Bridge Ochinyama Hill

Tidal pond

Duck mound

Side moat Remains of the Umite teahouse

Umite Otsutaibashi bridge

Otsutaibashi Bridge Pine teahouse

Hinokuchiyama Hill

Location: Hamarikyu Gardens, Chuo Ward Tel.: 03-3541-0200 Closed: December 29 to January 1 Hours: 9 am to 4:30 pm (July 1 to August 10, 7:30 am to 5 pm) Admission: 300 yen, 150 yen for those 65 and older, free for elementary students and Tokyo middle school students

Remains of horse Shinzenza duck riding field hunting ground

Island teahouse

Nakanogomon entrance

Koshindo duck hunting ground

Water gate

Flowering trees

Tokyo Bay

Hobaitei meeting hall Shinhinokuchiyama Hill

Remains of the Enryokan villa

Peony garden

Shogun’s landing Flower field

Office

Plum trees Entrance Water bus landing

Otemonbashi Bridge

Tsukiji River Three hundred year pine

Shinbashi Station, Shiodome Station

Skyscrapers are the backdrop to wisteria in full bloom (top left). Water is drawn into the tidal pond through water gates utilizing the tides from Tokyo Bay (bottom left). Rainbow Bridge seen across Tokyo Bay (top right). The extensive garden is dotted with pines that a perfect match to the seaside location (bottom right).

The island teahouse as seen from the tidal pond (left). The three-hundred year old pine tree planted by the sixth shogun, Ienobu Tokugawa, when he had the gardens renovated (right).

A Digital Guide to the Garden Handheld devices providing a guide to the garden are available for free loan.

Guidance is given in Japanese, English, Chinese (simplified and traditional) and Hangul.

32

2015 vol.24

Two Duck Hunting Grounds Koshindo and Shinzenza, two ponds for duck hunting, were established during the period when the gardens were called Hama Gyoen. A narrow moat was drawn from each pond and a mound built at the end as a lookout (photograph

1

2

4

3

① ). Domestic ducks were fed after banging on the thick boards with a wooden mallet (photograph ② ), to condition them. The sound of the planks being hit was a signal for these ducks to head for the moat (photograph ④ ) tempting the wild ducks along with them. The person watching from the peephole (photograph ③ ) would signal at the right time for others to come alongside the moat and throw a net over to catch the wild ducks.

2015 vol.24

33

The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien

Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens Yorifusa Mito, founder of the Mito Tokugawa dynasty, began creating the gardens in 1629 as part of the residence for the clan’s feudal lord in Edo (as Tokyo used to be called). The gardens were landscaped in a circular style and completed during the reign of his successor, Mitsukuni. The area that is now occupied by the Tokyo Dome, on the other side of the now closed eastern gate, once used to be the residence of the Mito clan. At their largest the grounds were huge, measuring around 88,000 tsubo (approx. 290,400㎡ ) but the current Korakuen is about a quarter of that at 20,000 tsubo (66,000㎡ ). The garden was created around a large pond surrounded by four themed landscapes —sea view, river view, mountain view and rice field view—in order to enjoy a changing landscape as you walk around. When Mitsukuni chose the garden’s name, he followed the advice of Ming Dynasty Chinese Confucian scholar Shu Shunsui. Shu Shunsui chose the name Korakuen (meaning to ‘enjoy after others’), based on a Chinese teaching in Yueyang Lou Ji, a literary work by Chinese literary figure and politician Fan Zhongyan. The teaching can be translated as ‘Bear the hardship and bitterness before others, enjoy comfort and happiness after others’. Engetsukyo (round moon) Bridge is believed to have been designed by Shu Shunsui, and derives its name from the fact that it looks like a full moon when reflected on the water.

An illustrated map, drawn in the early Edo period, of the Mito Koishikawa residence and garden (from the Meiji University Museum collection). Extensive renovations are believed to have been carried out at some stage because of the Noh stage and Kawahara shoin shown on the upper right hand corner of the map, as well as how the shape of the lake differs greatly from its current configuration.

Remains of the Hakkeido hall

Shiodome River

Yatsuhashi Bridge Engetsukyo Bridge Kiyomizu Kannondo remains

Sweet flag

Tokujindo Temple

Shiraito no taki waterfall

Tsutenkyo Bridge

Maruya pavilion

Ryukyuyama Hill

Rice paddies

Pine grove

Kuhachiya drinking house

Shorozan Hill

DATA Location: Koraku 1-chome, Bunko Ward Tel.: 03-3811-3015 Closed: December 29 to January 1 Hours: 9 am to 4.30 pm (gates close at 5 pm) Admission: 300 yen, 150 yen for those 65 and older, free for elementary students and Tokyo middle school students

West Lake embankment

Togetsubashi Bridge

River crossing Shiodome River

Boat landing Horajima Island

Kantokutei meeting room

Tokudaiji rocks

Large pond

Entrance

Chibukushima Island

Office

Tatsutagawa River

Chinese gate remains

Saigyodo remains Iidabashi Station

Nobedan Path

Inner garden

Kisogawa River

The large pond is modeled on the Lake Biwa (top left), with the two islands Horaijma and Chibukujima island positioned accordingly. Engetsukyo Bridge that Shushunsui is said to have designed. The bridge joined with its reflection in the water appears to form the shape of a full moon (bottom left).Tokujindo (top right), the temple where Mitsukuni had wooden statues of the brothers Bo Yi and Shu Chi enshrined. He read about them in the Chinese classic Records of the Grand Historian and was deeply moved (bottom right).

A magnificent single pine tree (left). The West Lake embankment which has been likened to West Lake of Hangzhou in modern day Zhejiang Province (right). Looking out at the pond across Shorozan Hill (bottom).

Elementary School Students Plant Rice In the northern landscape of the garden, which is built on the theme of rice fields, is a field built by Mitsukuni to teach the wife of his heir, Tsunaeda, about the hardships of farmers’ work. In keeping this tradition, since 1975 local elementary school students have planted rice in May and harvested it in September. When the children experience going barefoot into the muddy field for the first time they make a lot of noise. Under the guidance of the garden staff they learn how to plant the rice and harvest it, getting a small taste of how hard a farmer’s work can be.

34

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

35

The JQR Guide to Daimyo Teien

Rikugien Gardens

Once you visit this tranquil garden you will want to keep going back, again and again. In 1695 Tokugawa shogunate official and samurai Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa was given the land by the fifth shogun, Tsunayoshi Tokugawa, and took seven years to build the garden. Its name comes from a poem in the ancient Chinese poetry classic Book of Odes, which sets out six principles of poetry. These greatly influenced Ki no Tsurayuki and other compilers of the ancient classic Kokin Wakashu (“Collection of Japanese Poems of Ancient and Modern Times”) in formulating the six elements of waka poetry. Water for the lake was drawn from the Sen river aqueduct, and an artificial island with two hills, Imoyama and Seyama, was built. Scenic views evoking the world of waka were created around the lake; the Deshio no minato harbor, the Fujishiro Pass, and the Sasaganino Path that winds like a spider’s web, as well as a recreation of the famous scenic view Waka no Ura in Wakayama, mentioned in the Manyoshu (oldest collection of Japanese poetry) and Kokin Wakashu. The garden is a changing palette of colors with the weeping cherry blooming in spring, followed by azaleas, and autumn leaves in fall.

A map of Rikugien (from the Yanagisawa archives) showing the Rikugi mansion near the gardens, the villa of Yanagisawa, and the daimyo’s residences. Only the gardens are still in existence.

Senrijo (remains of horse riding ground) Fujinaminohashi Bridge Hydrangea Hill

Entrance

Sengoku Station

Togetsukyo Bridge Weeping cherry tree

Sasanaki Path

Tazuruhashi Bridge

Office

Deshio no minato harbor

Fujishirotoge Pass Seyama Hill

Daimon gate

Yamakagebashi Bridge Nakanoshima Island

DATA

Horajima Island Azalea teahouse

Location: Hon-komagome 6-chome, Bunkyo Ward Tel.: 03-3941-2222 Closed: December 29 to January 1 Hours: 9 am to 4.30 pm (gates close 5 pm) Admission: 300 yen, 150 yen for those 65 and older, free for elementary students and Tokyo middle school students

Gishuntei tearoom

Imoyama Hill

Shinsentei Hall Tama no iso shore

Fukiage teahouse

Fukiage shore

Chidoribashi Bridge Waterfall viewing teahouse Mizuwake ishi stone

Ginkatei remains

Nakanoshima Island seen from the shore of Tama no iso

36

2015 vol.24

The rustic waterfall-viewing teahouse, where the sound of a flowing mountain stream can be enjoyed (top left). The large pond filled with plentiful water surrounded by trees (center left). A vivid autumn scene (bottom left). Azalea lined steps going up the Fujishiro Pass (top right). The weeping cherry tree illuminated at night (center right).

A beautiful green path, unlikely in the middle of a city (bottom right).

2015 vol.24

37

QR 1

Quality Review

KURUTOGA&orenz

Orenz mechanical pencils come with 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm size leads. 500 yen plus tax.

The Kuru Toga comes with 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm size leads. 450 yen plus tax.

KURUTOGA&orenz

Advanced Mechanical Pencils That Don’t Break and Produce Uniform Writing Text and Photography/ JQR Editorial Staff

Advanced technology Makes small, neat handwriting Easier than ever

M

echanical pencil lead extends with a tap or click, eliminating

any need for sharpening. Ever since they were invented, manufacturers have continued to devise improvements to their handling and functionality, such as ergonomic grips and lead that extends with a simple shake of the pencil. But, over the decades one thing that has never changed is the lead itself. Now, however, new products with mechanisms for controlling the lead address the problem of keeping writing constantly neat. These new types of mechanical pencils are perfect for filling notebooks with tiny handwriting and are very popular with students.

The Kuru Toga from Mitsubishi Pencil is one such mechanical pencil. The name Kuru Toga comes from the Japanese description of the unique mechanism that rotates the lead nine degrees every time the pencil is put to paper, helping to maintain a sharp point. After forty rotations the lead has turned full circle, or 360 degrees, and still has a uniformly sharp, conical point.

“The lead maintains a sharp point

writing. In order to prevent the extremely

it easy to write small letters with

fine lead from breaking, a pipe comes

consistent neatness. There are no

out when you click, as you would for an

smudgy or unevenly thick lines, and

ordinary mechanical pencil, but the lead

paper and hands stay clean because

stays inside the pipe as you write.

the lead does not break away, hence there is no powder residue,” says

2015 vol.24

“It’s too small to be visible to the

Tsutomu Nakayama of the Mitsubishi

human eye, but the tip of the pipe is

Pencil Yokohama Research and

rounded. The pipe slides down and

Development Center.

becomes shorter as the lead wears

He also said that user surveys until now

away, even though it does not protrude,

have not given much indication of user

and the lead does not catch on the

dissatisfaction with mechanical pencils,

paper. Even an extremely fine lead will

even when specifically asked, but after

not break because the pipe always

trying the Kuru Toga they compared it

protects it,” says Kazuya Mizuguchi of

favorably to previous pencils, giving

the Pentel Marketing Promotion

comments such as “The lead doesn’t

Department.

catch on the paper anymore,” and “I

Pentel’s mechanical pencil leads are

can write complex characters with

also reinforced with silica making them

many strokes much more easily.”

especially difficult to break. The fact

Automatic lead extension

Write clearly and neatly, even when filling pages with tiny writing or notes.

Orenz

The pipe tip has rounded edges and slides down as the lead wears away.

that lead half the usual width does not break is also partly due to its strength.

These mechanical pencils are not

At the same time, Pentel created a

simply writing implements, they are

buzz with an innovative new

tools for those who care about

mechanical pencil. The Orenz has 0.2

presentation and creating neat,

mm and 0.3 mm leads that do not break

beautiful handwriting. Nowadays, with

and produce amazingly thin lines. The

everyone so used to seeing the uniform

pencil was a modification of the drafting

print produced by a computer, it may be

mechanical pencils favored by

even more important than ever to have

architects and designers, reworked for

writing tools that help people write

general users at a lower price. Its

neatly and beautifully.

The top line was made with a 0.5 mm lead and the bottom with a 0.2 mm lead. Only Pentel can make a 0.2 mm lead.

Kuru Toga

The Kuru Toga system inside the pen rotates the gears using the following mechanism.

The lead touches the paper

Pressure is applied

The lead is lifted from the paper

After the lead is lifted

uniqueness stems from the fact that the

● Inquiries: Mitsubishi Pencils 0120 321433 http://www.mpuni.co.jp Pentel Customer Support 0120 12 8133 http://www.pentel.co.jp

38

lead does not need to be extended for

without wearing down unevenly, making

The middle gear floats up

It meshes with the upper gear and moves to the left

A spring pushes the middle gear back down

It meshes with the lower gear and moves to the left

Ordinary mechanical pencils have around ten individual parts, but the Kuru Toga has twenty.

39

QR 2

Quality Review

Article 9 of the Constitution

Article 9 of the Constitution

Yukihaku publishing company’s 6,500 page collection of the treaties, conventions and six legal codes (of which the constitution is one) that form the body of Japanese law.

Article 9: Renounces War and Aspires to Peace Text and Photography: JQR Editorial Staff

the right to exercise collective self-

Article 9 of the Japanese constitution is without parallel in the world Here’s what it says based on dictionary definitions

defense. It is well known that many constitutional scholars have expressed disagreement with the proposals, and much of the population have raised their voices in dissent. They point out that the Abe administration and the Liberal Democratic Party are trying to change the interpretation of Article 9.

P

40

eace is easy to visualize.

Changing the interpretation?

Making it a reality, however, is

To begin with, is Article 9 such a

enormously challenging. History

complicated text that various

is stained with the blood of hatred as

interpretations could be attached to it?

humankind repeatedly engages in

We decided to find out by reading it

conflict and never learns. Japan, too,

again. You can see Article 9 printed in

once chose to go to war. As a result it

the photograph on the opposite page,

brought about the deaths of many of its

with a translation underneath. We also

people, while its invasion of neighboring

got out the dictionary, looked up all the

countries caused irredeemable loss.

key words, and listed them in the table

The current Japanese constitution was

on the right.

enacted after World War II. Article 9 of

It seemed pretty clear and easy to

the constitution clearly states that the

understand for us, with no room for

Japanese people would renounce war

confusion. What do you think?

forever. Nevertheless, because of

Prime Minister Abe maintains that the

changes in the security environment,

security environment has changed. But

2015 vol.24

Prime Minister

if he is going to follow a policy of

Abe’s

proactive pacifism, wouldn’t it be more

administration is

fitting to widely promote Article 9,

currently debating

rather than take up arms to fight?

proposals in the

Incidentally, we looked up the meaning

national

of ‘invasion’ in the dictionary as well. It

parliament that

said it meant to enter another country

would give Japan

and steal its territory and property.

The vocabulary of Article 9 and what it means, as defined by the Kojien.

Justice Order Peace

Just reasoning. The right path of conduct.

The governing logical arrangement of things in relation to each other.

A state in which the correct arrangement is maintained.

A state of quiet and tranquility with no war.

Sincerely

Actions are undertaken earnestly and with genuine feeling for people or tasks.

Aspiring

To desire the fulfillment of hopes or ambitions.

Sovereign right

Authority and power invested in the state. Exercising the rule and power of the state.

War

A conflict between states carried out through force of arms.

Force

The power of armed troops.

Military power.

Threat

Statements of intent to use force, or the actual use of force or power as a means of intimidation.

Use (of force)

The actual use of authority and force. [note that the Japanese word for ‘use’ in this instance does not correspond exactly to the English definition of ‘use’]

Disputes

To argue and fight over something.

Matters of disagreement.

Settling Means

Finding a viable solution to a problem or dispute.

The actual method of achieving an aim.

Forever

To continue endlessly without change.

Renounce

To forfeit without exercising claims to rights and interests.

Article 9 champions the ideals and aspirations of humankind in eight short lines.

［Article 9 of the Japanese Constitution］ Aspiring sincerely to an international peace based on justice and order, the Japanese people forever renounce war as a sovereign right of the nation and the threat or use of force as a means of settling international disputes.

In order to accomplish the aim of the preceding paragraph, land, sea and air forces, as well as other war potential, will never be maintained.

The right of belligerency of the state will not be recognized.

41

Ojiya, Niigata

Katakai Festival Asahara Shrine Annual Autumn The massive 420kg “yonshakudama� of Katakai, renowned as the world's largest fireworks, carry the hopes of local residents in a spectacular legacy of the Edo period.

Photos and text

42

2015 vol.24

Yuko Iida

2015 vol.24

43

The First Place to Launch Giant Sanshakudama and Yonshakudama Fireworks!

Fireworks Explode Overhead in a Powerful Light and Sound Extravaganza Old schoolmates return home, and quiet neighborhoods begin to buzz.

Don those matching blue jackets, tie on the headbands, and let the festival commence.

What beats winding through the streets with companions, singing work songs as you pull a float under 15,000 shimmering fireworks?

Niigata is rice country, and over the two days of September

many are personal dedications such as “A long healthy life

9 and 10 every year, as the golden years bow in anticipation

to you Grandma, from your grandchildren” and “You always

of harvest, crowds gather from across Japan for the Katakai

loved fireworks, I hope you're watching this from up there,”

Festival held in the Niigata town of Katakai, Ojiya City. An

special requests made to the fireworks operator.

estimated 15,000 fireworks are launched over the two-day

During daytime on the 10th, the day after the nighttime

festival, in a display that pulls out all the stops with two,

festival, “condolence” fireworks are launched, presumably

five, ten successively larger fireworks launched one after

visible to those who have passed to the other side. Star

another, while spectacular “star mine” displays fill the whole

mine and sanshaku-size shells blast colored smoke with a

of the night sky.

succession of bangs in the blue late summer sky. Once

The fireworks of Katakai began in the Edo period as

again, the echo of fireworks through the shrine grounds after

offerings to the Asahara Shrine, home to the local Shinto

spectators have left signals the end of summer.

deity. Listen carefully to the announcements at each launch:

44

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

45

Strong community ties repay huge outlay

Listening to fireworks count down the end of summer

46

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

47

Sending fireworks from earth to sparkle in the heavens

On high school graduation classmates form firework cohorts, and launch fireworks up to their sixtieth or even ninetieth birthdays. Each group pulls a float, winding their way through the streets singing traditional work songs.

DATA

Katakai Festival

Asahara Shrine annual autumn firework dedication

Location Katakai-machi, Ojiya-shi, Niigata Dates

September 9 -10 every year

Time 7:30pm – 10:20pm Yonshakudama launch 10pm both days

Getting there Approximately 30 mins on Echigo Kotsu bus for Ojiya via Katakai from JR Joetsu Shinkansen Nagaoka Station, alight at Katakai Gonomachi and walk 10 minutes. Alternatively, take Echigo Kotsu bus for Nagaoka via Katakai from JR Joetsu Line Ojiya Station to Katakai Ninomachi (approx. 20 mins.), then walk for 10 minutes.

48

2015 vol.24

2015 vol.24

49