Jqr 05 e 校了

9

2011 SEPTEMBER vol. 05

FREE

QR Quality Review

Shock-resistant Smartphone “G’zOne IS11CA” 匠 TAKUMI Vol. 4

QUALITY REVIEW SPECIAL

The evolution of bags created by Aero Concept

A Poet Breathes Life into Duralumin

Dualizing the water source is an effective anti-disaster measure

Technology to Purify Groundwater

Interview

Hanayo

［FEATURE］

A Delightful Cooling Food Ideal for Summer

Shaved Ice, Japanese Style eng.jqrmag.com

02

2 011 September

C O N T E N T S September 2011(distributed 8.8, 2011)

NEW OPENING

05 Japanese Restaurant Seizan JQR REPORT

Photograph (Spread)/Susumu Nagao

07 Following 3/11 The Great East Japan Earthquake: a volunteer’s Disaster Reconstruction Report

A Delightful Cooling Food Ideal for Summer

Shaved Ice, Japanese Style

09

Inter view

16

Hanayo

TAKUMI From the Workshops

匠 of Monozukuri Manufacturers Vol.4

28

Dualizing the water source is an effective anti-disaster measure

Technology to Purify Groundwater

● Wellthy Corporation

We asked smartly dressed passersby how they are feeling right now.

32

STREET SNAP

34

Continuing serial［Essay］

37

In Praise of Fine Sake

Japan and Me: The Modern is in the Traditional Francoise Morechand, Essayist

QUALITY REVIEW

Shock-resistant Smartphone

20 “G’zOne IS11CA”

QUALITY REVIEW SPECIAL

Junmai Ginjo

Kakurei

22 Shozo Izuishi Selection

Gohyakumangoku

The evolution of bags created by Aero Concept

A Poet Breathes Life into Duralumin

Publisher and Editor-in-Chief

Jun Shinozuka

Syozou Izuishi ［Fashion Critic］

JQR editorial department

Editors

Jun Nakaki

Editorial Committee

Tanehide Egami ［Executive Producer, Ecole De Cuisine Egami］

Kyoko Ohtsu

Shinichi Hanawa ［Joint Representative Director Ramsar Network Japan］

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-2270

Maki Taguchi

Ryuichiro Matsubara ［Economist, Professor at the University of Tokyo］

Yoko Yagi

Humio Maruyama ［High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency］

Hikaru Nozawa

Yumi Yamaguchi ［Travel Writer］

Dai Furusawa

Additional Editing

High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency

Fashion Director

Souta Yamaguchi

Planning

Integral Corp.

Web Director

Tokuhisa Maruyama

Editing

Digital Lights Inc.

Designer

Wakako Kawasaki

Translation

Manabiya Inc.

JQR advertising department

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-4488

eng.jqrmag.com 2 011 September

03

04

2 011 September

Seizan Photography/ Susumu Nagao

Text/ Hayato Nakatsuki

MENU

URL

http://seizan-mita.com/

The soup in the photo contains a dumpling of pen shell (tairagi) and green soybeans (edamame). The base components of clear, richlyflavored stock and dumpling are complemented by tiger prawn and wild chervil (mitsuba), ginger and Kaga cucumber, a combination that allows diners to savor the flavor of each individual, irresistible ingredient.

Seizan has seating for eight at the counter, and twelve at tables. A semi-private room is available for parties of six or more (minimum of 15,000 yen food order per person). Diners can choose from three twelve-dish set menus, priced at 7,000, 10,000 and 15,000 yen. A la carte options will be available from August.

MAP

MENU

Hibiyad

a-Dori

岩戸観音堂

Keio University

Mita 2-chome

d

ra

ku

Sa

i

or

定山源泉 公園

Mita 3-chome

Japanese restaurant

a-D

長寿と健康の 足つぼの湯

Mita

Keio University Main Gate

Mita 4-chome

Tamachi Station West Exit

SEIZAN

Tamachi Station

Eight minutes on foot from JR Tamachi Station, Mita Exit; five minutes from Exit A3 at Mita Station on the Toei Mita Line; eight minutes from Exit 2, Shirokane-takanawa Station on the Tokyo Metro Nanboku Line. Seizan is located on the first basement floor of a building on the street running from Mita 4-chome to Sannnohashi.

Up-and-Coming Chef Offers Youthful Promise The Japanese restaurant Seizan opened this April in Mita, Tokyo. Proprietor Haruhiko Yamamoto may be young at just thirty-one, but commands a range of skills acquired from twelve years of training at Gifu's renowned Takada Hassho kaiseki restaurant.

When it came to opening his own establishment, Yamamoto was keen to emphasize the performance element of food preparation. This led him to install his grill facing the front entrance, and place chopping boards just over the counter. All in aid, he says, of allowing customers to view the chef at work before enjoying the results: a challenge made tougher by the day-to-day difference in ingredients, and the task of constantly maintaining at every step

湯の滝

中山峠

→

This Month’s New Opening

定山渓観光協会

Because Seizan sources only the finest seasonal foodstuffs, menus are not compiled until the restaurant has taken delivery of the day's ingredients. The photo here shows abalone udon, comprised of udon ※ noodles entwined with abalone liver and accompanied by steamed abalone and sea urchin. The abalone is from Okinoshima, and was landed at the Tottori seaport of Sakaiminato.

—from ingredient handling to final plating up—the kind of suspense that will impress customers and keep them coming back for more. For the customer, however, watching the chef's various postures and gestures, the skillful way he wields his knives, and the seasonal fish cooking fragrantly over charcoal all help to make a visit to Seizan entertaining as well as a taste revelation.

Yamamoto decides the offerings for the day according to the ingredients delivered: thus the absence of a menu.

Picking the ingredients personally, he prepares them using the method that will draw out their flavors to optimum effect.

“Nothing gladdens a chef's heart more than to have a customer make their next booking as they leave,” notes Yamamoto.

And it would seem that this keen young chef's cooking is already enticing many to do just that.

Seizan Grande Mita Bldg. B1F, 2-17-29 Mita, Minato-ku Tokyo TEL: 03-3451-8320 12:00-13:30 (last order) 17:30-21:30 (last order) Open most days.

2 011 September

05

06

2 011 September

from ISHINOMAKI The Great East Japan Earthquake: a volunteer’s Disaster Reconstruction Report

Following 3/11 Photography and Text/Julian Ross

［NO.2］

The tsunami has reduced people’s lives to rubble. Their struggle to remove piles of debris and rebuilt their lives continues.

This was my third weekend as a volunteer. We drove

We collect tools from the warehouse – spades,

up on a Friday evening and set up tent in the early

wheelbarrow, crowbars, scrapers, and 200 rubbish

hours of Saturday morning on the athletics field of

bags, and we will fill most of them. We find the

Senshu University, from where the main volunteer

house, with the 75-year-old lady looking forlornly at

relief operation for Ishinomaki, population 150,000

the destruction. She has walked from an evacuation

before March 11, is being run.

center to meet us this morning. We use crowbars to prise open swollen wooden cabinets and drawers.

The campsite is home to a fascinating collection of

Seawater bursts out onto the floor, revealing

volunteers. They are not your ordinary salarymen.

beautifully wrapped kimono, now worthless. Sodden

Ponytails, earrings, brightly colored clothes,

photo albums, children’s stuffed toys, memorabilia

individualism. Students, freeters, unemployed, self-

from her youth. “Out. I won’t use it now anyway.

employed, and others who have dropped everything

Throw it away.” Within the space of one morning, we

to come here and help.

do just that. Throw this woman’s life out onto the street, where it joins towering piles of other people’s

As the weeks go by, the campsite becomes

lives. It is utterly heartbreaking.

increasingly international. There is a large team from Sri Lanka, who witnessed the effects of the Sumatra

By three months after the disaster, the nature of the

tsunami in 2004. In stark contrast, there is Bill from

volunteer work has changed. Those houses that have

Hawaii, who has come alone and is living under a

not been ripped in their entirety from the foundations

primitive plastic shelter for three months. Peace Boat

now have signs – “scrap me” or “keep me” – for the

has a highly organized contingent of 100 volunteers,

wrecking machines are stalking the area, tearing

on a weekly rotation. And the Church of Scientology

down houses that cannot be salvaged. The hotels

has sent a dozen volunteers; whatever some might

that have reopened are filled with construction

think of their “Church”, these young people are on

workers from across Japan. And therein lies

the ground, providing valuable support to the

contention. Some people complain that these outside

evacuees.

workers take paid jobs away from the local firms that remain. Meanwhile, hundreds of volunteers are now

Most of the organizers are young. They are not

cleaning mud from roadside drains, which is the job

professionals, but these young people have matured

of the city office.

far beyond their age in a matter of weeks. After registration at 8:30, the organizers shout out for

There is no correct answer. The scale and cost of

volunteer teams, anywhere from 5 to 20. We get

the disaster are unprecedented, and the more hands

given an address, a simple map, and an outline of

that help, the sooner evacuees can move out of

the situation. “75-year-old lady, single, all furniture,

school gymnasiums and start rebuilding their lives.

clothing, 40 tatami mats, debris, mud.”

These Tohoku people are tough, and rebuild they will.

Julian Ross

Julian Ross has lived in Japan since 1990 and works as a freelance technical editor.

(When not working, he can usually be found hiking in the mountains with his dog, also from the UK.) 2 011 September

07

08

2 011 September

A Delightful Cooling Food Ideal for Summer

Shaved Ice, Japanese Style

ge from n a r s r to Flavo en tea e r g a h matc fresh d n a e m plu ts. Som i u r f l a season made from n are eve e. l ic natura

Shaved ice (kaki-gori) is a quick remedy for the overheated body. Though deceptively simple in terms of ingredients – the basic ingredients are shaved ice with some syrup poured on top – kaki-gori delivers a surprising depth of flavor. This article will give you a glimpse into Japan’s unique and varied kaki-gori culture, which is underscored by painstaking efforts towards excellence by traditional confectionary shops and sweet parlors.

S H A V E D A L A J A P A N E

I C E S

E

2 011 September

09

Kaki-gori

A millennium-old dessert, which even Sei Shonagon and Murasaki Shikibu fell in love with Kaki-gori melts away even as it is served.

It is surprising to discover that this ephemeral gem was invented long before the age of iceboxes and refrigerators.

Records show that a dish of shaved ice with syrup poured over it made its debut as early as the Heian Period (circa 792-1190 A.D.).

Sei Shonagon also described it in her Pillow Book.

Here’s a brief history of kaki-gori, along with some tips on making superb kaki-gori.

Text: Hikaru Nozawa; Drawings: Itaru Mizoguchi

Sake on the Rocks, circa 500 A.D.

Shaved ice enjoyed

by Sei Shonagon about 1000 years ago Syrup made from liana

Japanese love affair with ice spans over 1600 years

Natural ice brought in from a himuro ice cave

Everyone craves something cool to help cope with the heat on a hot summer day. Around 1000 years ago during the Heian Period, Sei Shonagon wrote about shaved ice in her diary, the Pillow

Metal bowl

Book, listing “shaved ice with syrup presented in a silver bowl” as one of her favorite “elegant things.”

Her kaki-gori is the oldest recorded kaki-gori in Japan, and it was made by shaving precious ice stored in a himuro imperial ice cave in the mountains during winter and transported to Kyoto to serve the imperial court during summer. It was flavored with liana syrup.

About 1600 years ago the Imperial Court set up a system of stocking ice in mountainous regions in winter and offering ice to the emperor and the imperial court as a summertime luxury. The Chronicles of Japan, one of the oldest books on the history of

Drawing by Bigot depicting everyday life in Tokyo, circa 1890s Geisha Shavings are put in a glass container and scoped up…with a spoon!

Japan, mentions “immersing the ice transported from the ice cave in a cup containing Sake and savoring it under a midsummer moon” – the very first mention of a “on the rocks” serving in Japan.

The Tale of Genji also depicts a scene in which ice was served to young people to help them cool off in hot weather. Natural ice was a luxury enjoyed only by the nobility – something that commoners could only dream of.

Fast forward to 1862, when a shrewd businessman named Kahei Nakagawa started shipping natural ice produced in Goryokaku in Hokkaido to Tokyo and launched mass-marketing of his ice under the brand name of Hakodate Ice. Nakagawa’s venture allowed the common people to enjoy ice for the first time. Georges Ferdinand Bigot, a French artist living in Japan in the 1890s, painted a Geisha tasting kaki-gori. The cotton sign prominently displaying the Chinese character for ice in the painting is the same summer icon that we still see today.

10

2 011 September

Manual ice-shaving machine popular in the Taisho-Showa periods The shape of the machine has hardly changed!!

S h a v e d

i c e

Spin the crank with the right hand while adjusting the blade angle with the left hand In the olden days, ice shavings were produced by placing an ice block on a kanna plane and sliding the ice back and forth repeatedly. This time-consuming method is ill-suited for ice shaving as the ice melts as it is being shaved. In the Meiji period, an ice merchant named Hanzaburo Murakami invented the very first ice-shaving machine. Equipped with a rotating blade, this Murakami ice shaver spread across Japan. It was the prototype of the ice shaving machines used today.

Make sure that the “grain” of the ice – nearly invisible lines that are vulnerable to pressures from outside – is facing sideways

Until the early Showa Period, the common practice was serving shaved ice sprinkled with sugar or topped off with sweet red beans. In the post-war period, shaved ice flavored with a wide variety of syrups, such as melon, strawberry and lemon, gained popularity as households were increasingly equipped with home refrigerators, which in turn made ice production a simple task. Today’s colorful kaki-gori took hold around that time.

Thus, Japan’s kaki-gori culture was cultivated by its people’s longing for natural ice – a product of the temperature variance from season to season, and was given a framework by the invention of the ice-shaving machine. That is why the Japanese have developed the custom of savoring and appreciating the quality of the ice itself, setting kaki-gori apart from ice cream or sorbet. The evolution of Japan’s kaki-gori is a path far more lengthy than we imagined.

Pour syrup over ice carefully and slowly with a swirling motion so as not to disfigure the shape of the kaki-gori below.

The secret behind perfect kaki-gori: Warming the ice discs before shaving!

Each shaved-ice pro has their own method for shaving ice, but there is one secret they all share: They all prime ice discs by “warming” them a bit prior to shaving after bringing them out of the refrigerator. They simply leave ice at room temperatures until the surface becomes sweaty, indicating a certain degree of melting has occurred and the temperature of ice has climbed to between minus 5 and minus 3 degrees centigrade, which makes for perfect ice shavings. Timing is crucial as the ice melts away progressively. Pros need to figure out when customers are likely to order shaved ice to ensure that the ice is in its best condition precisely at the point when the customers ask for shaved ice.

Twirl the bowl under the machine while spinning the crank to create a beautiful mound of paper-thin shavings

Despite the painstaking preparation efforts, the temperature of the ice keeps going up as it is shaved. For this reason, ice-shaving pros typically tweak the blade angle in a very subtle way. Ice shaving is an art in itself, where varied weather and temperature elements need to be addressed correctly and reflected in the shaving techniques to fit the day: coarser shavings on humid days and fluffy ones on cooler days, and so on.

Beneath the veneer of the almost identical appearance of different shaved ices, you’ll be amazed at the wide range of flavors and taste sensations kaki-gori offers, thanks to the ingenuity of each shop

Daruma (potbelly) Yama (or mountain) style formed by ladling created by twirling ice shavings into the bowl a bowl

proprietor.

2 011 September

11

Instant Body Freezers are Served Here…

Have you had a chance to try kaki-gori this If not, consider the following places.

Looking for traditional kaki-gori? Interested in exploring the diverse food-texture universe available by savoring different ice shavings and syrups made from real fruits?

Seeking the ultimate in the harmony produced by integrating sweet and chilly sensations?

We compiled this list for you by running around Tokyo on hot, humid days.

Photos: Susumu Nagao; Text: Hikaru Nozawa

12

DARUMAYA

FUNAHASHIYA KOYOMI

The luxury of natural ice topped off with quality matcha green teapowder

A harmony produced by ice and pulpy fruits bursting with juice

Tokusen Ujikintoki special green tea/red bean paste ￥1,180

Natsu-mikan (a citrus fruit unique to Japan) ￥750

Darumaya serves kaki-gori year-round using natural ice shipped from himuro ice caves tucked away in the mountains. Their unsweetened matcha topping is prepared individually after an order is placed by making koicha thick tea with a chasen bamboo whisk in a chawan bowl. Azuki red beans are ladled on to finish. The sweetness and umami inherent in matcha spread in your mouth as the ice melts and comes into contact with your taste buds. You'll experience very little bitterness because Darumaya’s high-quality matcha is naturally and subtly sweet. Extra toppings include syrup made from wasanbon sugar (+¥200). *Purified ice is used if natural ice supply is depleted.

Funahashiya Koyomi is a relaxing café surrounded by treasured antique furniture. Its natsu-mikan citrus shaved ice comes with specially prepared syrup made by combining sweet syrup and natsumikan preserve. The slightly bitter undertone of the syrup may bring back bittersweet memories of the past. You will love the combination of citrus vesicles bursting in your mouth with flavor and the extremely fine ice shavings. Also popular are Ichigo Miruku (strawberry milk) shaved ice featuring strawberry puree (with miniscule seeds intact for extra diversity in texture) (￥750) and Ujikintoki (green tea/red bean paste kaki-gori) (￥750). The items are available for takeout as well (￥450).

Darumaya

Funahashiya Koyomi

1- 3-6 Jujo Nakahara, Kita-ku, Tokyo 11:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Closed on Tuesdays (except for August when special schedule is in effect) Tel: 03-3908-6644

5-17-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 11:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (last order) Open seven days a week Tel: 03-5449-2784

2 011 September

summer?

S h a v e d

IMOJIN

i c e

MITSUBACHI

Refreshing encounter between milk and lemon

Roasted aromas of the ingredients underscored by rich sweet taste

Kori Gyunu (Ice Milk) ￥450

Kori Wazanmai (Ice with three delicacies)650, Shiratama topping (+￥50)

Kori Gyunyu features milk mixed with homemade lemon syrup for added sweetness and tanginess, and is the choice of connoisseurs at this old establishment. The father of the current proprietor came up with this unusual lemon/milk combination for children who didn’t like the taste of milk. You scoop ice and drench it in the yellowish milk before carrying the spoon to your mouth. The moderately tangy flavor of lemon will travel through your nostrils.

Imojin was founded in 1912. They still stick to the old recipes of the early Showa period for many offerings including Aisu Monaka (ice cream wrapped in wafer) ¥ ( 110), whose wafer is still made from glutinous rice with no eggs added.

This shaved ice boasts a triple feature of homemade syrup made from roasted soybean powder, sesame ice cream and Ogura red beans. The roasted aroma of the ingredients spread all over your mouth. The Dainagon variety of red beans is shipped from Hokkaido and cooked al dente to the point where you can still feel the firmness of the skin. The taste of the beans themselves is also conspicuous. The silky smooth ice shavings are made from purified natural water. “As long as we put up this signboard that says Kanmidokoro (sweet parlor), everything that ought to be sweet is very sweet here,” says the shop manager. Their richly flavored kaki-gori demonstrates their proud commitment to and love for sweetness. For an extra charge, you can top your kaki-gori with pillow-soft Shiratama rice-flour dumplings.

IMOJIN 2-30-4 Nezu, Bukyo-ku, Tokyo 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.Closed on Mondays Tel: 03-3821-5530

Mitsubachi (main store) 1st Floor, Honey Bldg., 3-38-10 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku 10:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Open seven days a week Tel: 03-3831-3083

2 011 September

13

ori HIGASHIYA

TORAYA KARYO

The refreshingly tangy flavor melts away the heat

Uji syrup made from wasanbon – the syrup of regal magnificence

Umemitsu (shaved ice with plum syrup): ￥950

Ujikintoki (green tea/red bean paste kaki-gori) ￥1260

The shaved ice with homemade plum syrup appeals to ice lovers who seriously need to cool down with potent acid flavor. They shave the ice in front of your eyes – an added treat. Many customers are lured into ordering kaki-gori by the “swooshing” sounds of the machine. Another favorite, Ujikintoki (green tea/red bean paste kaki-gori) (¥950) allows you to experience the bitterness derived from unsweetened matcha green tea juxtaposed with the extreme sweetness of condensed milk. The same menu is also offered at HIGASHIYA GINZA.

Founded in Kyoto during the Muromachi Period more than 480 years ago, Toraya serves Ujikintoki shaved ice featuring matcha green tea syrup that combines wasanbon sugar, (the same wasanbon sugar supplied to the Imperial Family) and the Kyo-noShirabe matcha green tea. The thick green matcha syrup is gracefully absorbed by the ice shavings, creating impressively elegant and yet refreshing aftertastes. Hidden beneath the ice is Shirazarato crystal sugar of extreme purity and whiteness, a regular ingredient in Toraya’s Wagashi confectionary, and Ogura red bean paste prepared specifically as an accompaniment to kaki-gori. Other recommended kaki-gori are Ujimizore served with white azuki bean paste (¥1,260) and Kori Anzu (stewed apricot), which is available only at this Akasaka flagship shop (¥1,155).

ori HIGASHIYA 1st Floor, le bain, 3-16-28 Nishi Azabu Minato-ku, Tokyo 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Tel: 03-5786-0024

Toraya Karyo Tea Room, Akasaka Shop 14

2 011 September

4-9-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (last order) on weekdays 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (last order) on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays Open seven days a week Tel: 03-3408-4121

S h a v e d

HIMITSU- DO

CAFÉ DINING BAR

i c e

ANGELUS

Attempts to unleash natural fruit flavors to the fullest

Original syrup made from stewed green plums

Himitsu no Ichigo Miruku (Himitsu’s shaved ice with strawberries and milk) ￥500

Ume (Plum) (front) and Mocha (back) ￥500 each

At Himitsu-do, a new venue that opened its doors in May this year, a manual ice-shaving machine is still used. Its Himitsu no Ichigo Miruku comes with light-pink strawberry syrup that contains a generous supply of the Beni-Hoppe variety of strawberries produced in Shizuoka. The strawberries are flash frozen after harvesting, and Himitsu-do uses a low flame to stew the strawberries for an extended time so as not to destroy the vitamin content. This process also allows the sauce to thicken nicely to a pulpy consistency packed with strawberry flavor. The proprietor is eager to extend his menu. You may be pleasantly surprised by new sauces featuring seasonal fruits each time you visit.

Angelus sources its ice from an ice cave in Nikko. Ume shaved ice aficionados swear by Angelus’ original syrup, which is made by stewing green plums, whose delicate tartness and gentle sweetness go extremely well with the texture of the soft-melting natural ice shavings.

Angelus serves the type of kaki-gori that only a café would come up with. Its mocha shaved ice, for instance, is doused with rich espresso coffee (¥500). They are planning to roll out a new variation in August, featuring a sweet, preserve-like fruity tomato sauce with seeds left intact for an added texture variation.

Himitsu-Do

Café Dining Bar Angelus

3-11-18 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Closed on Mondays Tel: 03-3824-4132 New seasonal items are subject to availability.

1st Floor, Nishikokurega East Tower, 3-35-1 Izumicho, Kokubunji-shi, Tokyo 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Open seven days a week Tel: 042-312-2403 2 011 September

15

Ha n a y o

16

2 011 September

Interviewing today’s Japanese to watch Hanayo is a multi-faceted expressive activist in a variety of fields – from geisha trainee to artist, photographer, and musician – active around the world. In this issue of JQR we take a peek at her life and her future plans.

Photography & Interview/Maki Taguchi, Hair & Make-up Artist/Akane Yamazaki

Hanayo Although she has the delicacy of a

would be seeking her out. Hanayo

kimono. I said to Kuramata, ‘I honestly

young girl, Hanayo has the sensuality

expressed herself openly and

had my sights set on becoming a

of an adult. She expresses this

discovered the joy of being active. She

geisha, but that world doesn’t exist in

personality through her work and has

performed in a band, photographed

contemporary Japan.’ He replied, ‘It

captured the attention of the Japanese

objects and scenery with a camera

most certainly does!’ Later, after

and international art scene.

that had been handed down to her

finishing my studies abroad I returned

from her father, and appeared in

to life at a Japanese university. But I

school, I was the sort of kid who would

movies. After graduation, she attended

felt something was different. Around

go to Plastics concerts [Ed: techno

an art university where she studied

that time, I happened to walk into a

pop] and classical recitals while

sculpture. But as an active youth, she

cinema showing Nihonbashi and

everyone else was listening to Seiko

soon became restless and bored with

Okuman choja, directed by Kon

Matsuda and the Tanokin Trio [Ed:

her lessons, so she went to Paris to

Ichikawa. I remembered Kuramata’s

pop idols]. Come high school, I left my

further her studies.

words on seeing the geisha appear on

“When I was still at elementary

good friends behind and went off to

“I was shocked to find other kids my

the screen. After the curtains came

school in Ikebukuro. That was the late

age were working to put themselves

down and lights went on, I went over

80s. Ikebukuro was a bustling place; a

through university, and there was even

to Mukojima.”

subculture and underground culture

one student who had defected from a

Mukojima, the area of Tokyo famous

mecca. I would visit its mysterious

neighboring country. This sort of

for geisha. It was after 9:00 p.m.at the

record shops, live music venues, and

lifestyle did not exist in Japan in my

close of the year. when Hanayo went

movie theatres on my way home from

day.”

to Mukojima to take in the sights.

school. I made new friends there and

Concealing her astonishment, she

“The streets at that time of night were

my world gradually expanded.”

began attending a dance school in

usually pitch black, but this was at the

Fanzines and other small-circulation

Paris instead of the art academy. She

close of the year, so everything was

magazines were popular when Hanayo

danced with youths born into circus

all lit up. The geisha were just seeing

was in her first year at high school.

families and felt the desire to do

off their customers. From the eaves

She suddenly began attracting

something typically Japanese. She

among the hanging lanterns, I watched

attention though Joshiko Nama

then encountered a Japanese man,

the geisha with faces painted white,

Tsushin (High school girl live report),

Shiro Kuramata, known the world over

dressed in beautiful kimonos. All I

which she published together with her

as an interior-space designer.

could think was, ‘I can not believe my

friends, and was soon being contacted by people whom she never dreamed

“From an early age, I have always loved Japanese traditional arts and the

eyes. This world really does still exist!’

Five minutes later, the street was pitch 2 011 September

17

18

2 011 September

black again, as though nothing had

and no deadlines. Now, that is a

10,000 years. During these millennia,

happened. I was even more surprised

luxury.”

people have walked through the

than when I traveled overseas. Just

Hanayo captured her daughter and life

region, and their paths became roads.

then, I saw a help-wanted poster

in Berlin in photographs, published

And the Tokyo of today is built upon

looking for dishwashers. On applying,

photo books, and held solo exhibitions.

that base. In this, I feel something like

the okamisan – proprietress of the

She also expanded her musical

the primitiveness of nature. When I

geisha house – said without asking my

activities performing live in numerous

feel history, I feel affection and beauty.

name, “You are a cute one. Come

countries. Last autumn, she moved her

I think that everyone should stop and

back here tomorrow at three.”

base back to Japan after 15 years

think about what Japan is and what it

The very next day, Hanayo began her

abroad.

means to be Japanese. Japan has weathered the ages as an island

training as a geisha in the karyukai

“Japanese nature is beautiful. The

– the flower and willow world of the

classical, refined sense of beauty is

nation, but a lot has changed over the

geisha. She took great pleasure in her

splendid, too. I am drawn to the

last hundred years. Then the Great

training, fascinated by the kimono and

performances of the [geisha] oneesan,

East Japan Earthquake struck. I think

makeup of her oneesan (elder sisters),

and the fact that these traditions have

we should make the most of these

the traditional performing arts –

survived and remain even today. I also

experiences while re-examining

everything. All the while, Hanayo

feel beauty in the passage of time,

Japanese culture, such as delicate

continued to remain active as a

itself. Even when Japanese dancers

handiwork. Actually, I have a feeling

musician and a photographer. But the

and masters of dance have grown old

that I really do not know Japan,

turning point in her life came four

and can no longer dance, they still

because I was raised in Tokyo, entered

years later when she married her

retain their feminine beauty. Come to

the karyukai in my late teens, then

German boyfriend and moved to Berlin,

think of it, I have loved kimono, dance,

moved to Berlin. That is why I want to

leaving the karyukai behind.

and other Japanese traditional things

travel around the country and learn

since I was a child. After my return to

more about the real Japan.”

gave birth to my daughter, Tomoko.

Tokyo, an architect friend said,

From a young age, Hanayo has always

Tokyo is not a city where you create

‘European cities are planned, and

seen herself as a Japanese. Active in

opportunities but mostly receive them.

buildings that ruin the cityscape

Japan and around the world, she has

In contrast, Berlin has wide open

cannot be constructed randomly. The

had various experiences as an

spaces, everyone has time but no

cityscape is beautiful in its

expressionist. Who knows where she

money,” she laughs. “Even so, I liked

consistency.’ But, the topography here

wind up next. We can only wait and

the idea of starting from nothing. There

– the hills and the rivers – has

see.

was no one in particular to work for

probably remained unchanged for over

“I went to a life of no training. Then I

Hanayo Artist, photographer and musician. Born 1970. On quitting university, Hanayo began as an apprentice geisha at Mukojima. At that time, she adorned the front cover of London’s The Face. She also modeled for Jean-Paul Gautier. Her first photo book, Hanayome, was published in 1996. Hanayo moved to Berlin after marrying and developed her career as a performer and photographer in Tokyo, Berlin, London, Paris, Moscow, Hong Kong, New York, Beijing and other cities around the world. She returned to Japan last year. Her photo books include Hanayome (Shinchosha), Doremumumumu…Bukku/Dreammmm Book (Little More), Hanayo Artist Book, (Kawade Shobō Shinsha), Magma (Akaka Publishing), Colpoesen (Utrecht). http://www.hanayo.com/ ● http://www.hanayo.com/

2 011 September

19

QR 1

Equipped with a high-brightness back light, and twin speakers that make incoming calls easy to hear. Back surface features anti-slip embossing.

Quality Review

CASIO G'zOne IS11CA

Shock-resistant Smartphone G’zOne IS11CA Photography/Hiroyuki Kiseki, Reporting/Text/Hikaru Nozawa

standard employed by the U.S.

even feel free to hop on your bicycle

A water, dust, and shock

Department of Defense. The phone will

with the phone in your back pocket.

resistant smartphone

continue to function properly when

To prevent dust from entering, the

that carries on the G-SHOCK

dropped from as high as four feet,

phone features rubber gaskets around

tradition of durability

regardless of the angle. It is also

points of entry like the earphone jack

water-resistant, and can be submerged

and battery cover. The microphone,

Remember G-SHOCK watches? Hugely

for up to 30 minutes to a depth of five

earpiece, and high-volume twin

popular in America in the 1990s, they

feet (at room temperature) without

speakers also use polymer filters,

were shock-resistant enough to survive

water penetrating the inner workings

which are more airtight and provide

a drop from 30 feet. Casio’s G’zOne

—no need to worry about using your

louder volume.

series, featuring superior shock, water,

phone outside on a rainy day. You can

More advanced = less robust. This

and dust resistance, brings that

take it into the bath, and if you drop it

can make buying a new phone a

expertise to the mobile phone.

in the mud, all you have to do is rinse it

tough decision. But now there’s a

According to a survey by Macromill,

off with water.

tough phone that’s up to the task,

nearly 40% of mobile phone owners

The larger displays found on

perfect for people who lead hard-

report they’ve gone through the painful

smartphones raise concerns about their

charging lives.

experience of damaged LCD screens

fragility, but the G’zOne IS11CA display

and data loss due to immersion in

utilizes Gorilla® Glass, a tough glass

water. The G’zOne IS11CA is the first

surface with a high compressive stress

smartphone in the G’zOne series that

layer. This display is surrounded by a

can stand up to these kinds of everyday

magnesium frame, which is then

mishaps.

encased in a plastic bumper, providing

First, the design passed a drop test

a dual layer of protection from shocks

using the MIL standard, a procurement

from top, bottom, left or right. You can

● au Mobile Phone Inquiries: 0077-7-111

20

2 011 September

Buttons on the side designed to provide a solid grip for the thumb. Includes a convenient “Active Key” with shortcuts for calling up frequently-used functions.

In three colors: Red, khaki, and black. CMOS camera offers 8.08 megapixels. Uses the AndroidTM 2.3 platform.

450 minutes continuous talk time. Open pricing.

Gn' ze O e l onoep I S 1 1 C A

2 011 September

21

QR

SPECIAL Selection The Shozo Izushi Selection No. 6

The evolution of bags created by Aero Concept

A Poet Breathes Life into Duralumin

Photography/Satoru Naito

Japan has the custom of 1,000

speedy recovery of their

positive and spiritual effect on the

cranes. Not the actual bird, but

acquaintance, whose face appears

ailing person.

origami cranes – red, yellow, green

in their mind. This is repeated at

The crane is just one example of

and other colors of paper folded into

how the Japanese have fashioned

the shape of cranes. Of course, not

all manner of living and innate

everyone is adept at folding the

objects with origami – literally,

cranes. Nothing is more marvelous

folded paper. Origami is a fun

than a highly skilled person folding

activity for children but also a paper

a tiny piece of paper into a crane

work-of-art. While the origins of

that appears to be alive.

origami are unknown, it enjoys a

This tradition of 1,000 cranes is

long history.

alive and well in the 21st century,

Origami was written in days of old

and are used as presents for

with the kanji character for “shapes,”

convalescing friends or family. The

instead of the character for “paper,”

person folding the cranes prays for

and it was etiquette to wrap gifts

their acquaintance’s quick recovery.

using origami. The art is known to have been practiced in the Heian

The person receiving them contemplates the thousand cranes every day, hoping they recover as soon as possible.

22

The regularly punched rivets on the mirror surface are beautiful

Period (794–1185), so its history spans at least 1,000 years. Being an important part of etiquette,

Belief in 1,000 cranes is probably

least 1,000 times. The thousand

various schools of origami exist,

just superstition, but who knows? As

cranes represent their prayers, and

such as the famous Ogasawara, Ise,

the givers make each crane, they

an invisible power is hidden within

and Kira schools.

say a prayer with every fold for the

them. That power no doubt has a

The original tradition of folding

2 011 September

No two guitar cases are alike, because the size and interior are made to fit the guitar itself. Sample

2 011 September

23

Shoulder cases that excite when slung over the shoulder. Sample

24

2 011 September

A duralumin briefcase with leather accents. Sample

shapes became the game of folding

paper.

craftsman in Tokyo, Sugano was

paper, but origami also had the

Duralumin is the aluminum alloy

engaged in manufacturing aircraft

meaning of a “certificate of

developed and patented by Alfred

components when, over 20 years

appreciation.” For example, when

Wilm in 1903 in the small town of

ago, he faced bankruptcy after the

specialists appraised antiques or

Duren in Western Germany. The

volume of work from his prime

curios, they would attach a

composition of 94% aluminum and

contractor plunged. Sugano says he,

certificate, according to custom,

4% copper with a little magnesium

at one point, contemplated suicide.

folded in a splendid shape (origami)

produces a light material with a

However, Sugano was then inspired

to certify the object was truly

spectacular hardness.

to “create one product that would

superior. Even today, an object with

Nothing is stronger. No metal is

remain as proof to the world that he

“origami attached” signifies a

lighter. Many people probably know

once lived.” The product was an

special, first-class article.

duralumin is used in aircraft. Sugano

attaché case for his personal use,

Aero Concept’s Keiichi Sugano is

is one of many people who fell in

and he no intention of selling it.

famous for working with duralumin

love with duralumin’s special

Since the case was for him, creating

as if it were paper. When Sugano’s

qualities through his work on

it became his hobby. His choice of

hand touches a piece of difficult

aircraft.

duralumin as the main material was

duralumin, it becomes tender, like

A third-generation sheet-metal

a natural one, because he was

2 011 September

25

A light, beautiful travel bag that leaves a durable impression. Sample

26

accustomed to working with it.

on the left. He searches for the

on a table, unlock it with both

Sugano has two methods for

point – the moment – of precise,

hands, lift the lid, take out the

making duralumin lighter and more

horizontal equilibrium. That

documents you need, and close the

like paper. The first is to make the

perfectly kept momentary balance

lid. The moment it shuts, the lock

duralumin sheet as thin as possible.

is what makes Aero Concept bags

mechanism sings with a snap.

The other is to make holes in the

beautiful.

Snap! Sugano says he made it

duralumin. However, paper-thin

Aero Concept bags are pleasant to

sound like the shutter on a

duralumin does not hold a shape,

touch and caress to their smallest

Barnack-model Leica IIIF camera.

so it must be folded over. This is

detail. Even a knob will talk to your

It's no surprise that Fender, makers

undoubtedly duralumin origami.

fingers. This can only be called the

of world famous guitars, would

Sugano’s skill is evident in the fine

aesthetics of touch.

order cases like these for their

balance between lightness and

Even an Aero Concept bag’s sound

instruments. Sugano is the only

strength – like a seesaw with

is beautiful. For example,

poet in the world who breathes

weight on the right and sturdiness

horizontally place the attaché case

fresh life into duralumin.

2 011 September

The latest product is a futuristic shopping basket (top).

Sample/A supple tote bag made of metal (bottom right).

Sample/A flask-like shoulder case (bottom left).

Sample

Shozo Izuishi Born 1944, Izuishi has forged a career as a fashion designer, consultant, and critic. Author of numerous books including Bruu

Jiinzu no Bunkashi (“Blue Jeans: a Cultural History”) (NTT Shuppan). His recent work Suutsu no Hyakka Jiten (“An Encyclopedia of Suits”) (Banraisha) lecturing males on how to wear a suit properly has attracted favorable reviews.

● Enquiries: Aero Concept (http://www.aeroconcept.co.jp) 2 011 September

27

T A K U M I

匠

From the Workshops of Monozukuri Manufacturers V o l

4

JQR Selection of Japanese Skills

Dualizing the water source is an effective anti-disaster measure

Technology to Purify Groundwater

Photography/Susumu Nagao, Interview & Text/Kyoko Ohtsu

Shoichi Fukuda, president of Wellthy Corporation, has a gentle demeanor, but has boldly led the company with carefully planned strategies.

use safe water, as usual. They could

tap when twisted is no longer a

also supply water to nearby

given. Japanese were reminded of

residents and the families of their

this reality on March 11. One

employees.

This system has many other

corporation considered cases in

When the lifelines of electricity,

advantages, such as cost reduction.

which the public water supply could

water, gas, telephones and other

Compared to using only the public

not be used, for whatever reason,

utilities are severed, electricity and

water supply, companies can budget

and has worked to promote the

telephones are usually restored

for a significant reduction in costs

spread of a system that dualizes the

comparatively quickly, but water and

per year, even when including

water source. Wellthy Corporation

sewerage are the slowest to be

installation and maintenance costs.

is the pioneer of the groundwater

restored. From the viewpoint of

When working with local

membrane filtration system.

public hygiene, such as hand

communities and neighborhood

washing and bathing, more

associations, drinking water can be

The groundwater membrane filtration

importance should be placed on

supplied to neighboring residents in

system changes groundwater into

everyone having their own water

times of disaster. By ensuring the

drinkable water using an advanced

supply to maintain their lifestyle.

availability of safe water at all

membrane-filtration technology and

“After the latest earthquake, I am

times, companies contribute to the

provides a stable water supply. The

convinced that we have been

region and also improve their image.

system, which ensures quality water

working in the right direction,”

Fukuda dived into the water

as stipulated in article 50 of the

President Shoichi Fukuda proudly

business 15 years ago. Before that,

Water Supply Act, is maintained

said. That’s only natural because

his company was doing well

once a month and monitored all year

there was little data, until now, to

manufacturing and selling

round. The Wellthy system

support the theory that groundwater

electricity-saving equipment. One

effectively functioned when the

is immune to earthquakes. The 1995

day, a client commented while

water supply was cut off over a wide

Great Hanshin Awaji Earthquake

signing the contract on the

area immediately after the Great

struck soon after Wellthy’s system

completion of fitting work, “With

East Japan Earthquake. Hospitals

was developed, so this is the first

this, we are saving electricity. Is

and food companies that had

time the theory was substantiated.

there any way to save gas and

installed the system continued to

28

Installation has multiple merits

The fact that water will pour from a

2 011 September

water?” Within days, Fukuda heard

技

TAK U M I

← Cross section of the membrane, the nucleus of the membrane-filtration system. Each membrane is like a straw. The 0.01-wide pores on the surface of the membrane fiber filter the water that passes through.

→ This one-meterlong device – the membrane – can process 1–2 tons of water per hour.

An example of a membrane filtration system (Aso General Hospital)

J Q R

S e l e ct i o n

o f

J a p a n e s e

S k i l l s

2 011 September

29

Groundwater Membrane Filter System Flowchart

Primary filter

Ratio of New Installations

Water receiving tank

Membrane filter

Railway stations & facilities 3% Factories 4% Food factories 5%

Schools Others 7% 3%

Hospitals & nursing homes

Accommodation 8%

Raw water tank

Processed water tank Chemical-feeding tank

Gyms 6%

Water quality monitoring system

Deep well

Source water

Conventional process

Supermarkets 17% Department stores 7%

Ultra-microfiltration (UMF) membrane, advanced processing

24-hour, 365-day monitoring

Groundwater pumped from a deep well is filtered through sand and activated charcoal and then filtered using the advanced ultrafiltration (UF)-membrane process. The membrane also completely removes bacteria and parasites. The safety equipment monitors the process 24 hours a day, all year round.

As at April 2011

Most of the corporations installing the system are facilities that use large volumes of water daily and must be prepared for emergencies, such as hospitals, department stores and hotels. These facilities must ensure a safe water supply to protect the lives of their patients and customers.

Water Cost Reduction Before installation

After installation Amount reduced 2,880,000 yen/year

Water utility cost 12,000,000 yen/year (30,000m3 x 400 yen)

Equipment lease fee/year 4,320,000 yen/year Full maintenance cost 2,400,000 yen/year

the same comment from other

Water utility cost 2,400,000 yen/year

customers, so he searched the library to see if it was possible. He

Paid to the lease company

Paid to Wellthy Paid to the Water Department

The introduction of a system leased for nine years for 30 million yen realized an annual cost reduction of 2.88 million yen (public water supply unit 400 yen/ton, annual use 30,000 tons). * The cost of the system differs depending on negotiations and conditions.

found that only the government was involved in supplying water with no competition.

“The field of electrics in which I was involved was highly competitive.

Technology was evolving fast and constantly being honed. But one book mentioned that water technology had not advanced for 30 to 50 years due to a lack of competitors.” Fukuda said. discovered that its quality was not

members wanted the research

nearly good enough to meet the

stopped, and they threatened to

Water Supply Act requirements.

resign. It was a trying time,” Fukuda

Before long, the company saw that it

Unlike river water, groundwater

explained. The team leader

was a viable business and decided

contains more heavy metals than

eventually resigned, and Fukuda

to begin research and development

one might expect, making it difficult

himself continued the research and

into groundwater purification. But

to process. Even if the bacteria and

development as team leader.

purifying groundwater for drinking

heavy metals were removed,

The complex system, developed

was nearly impossible.

repeated processing was necessary

after many twists and turns, ended

Water of a high enough quality to

to make it stable enough to supply

up following Fukuda’s own original

supply to people had to clear 48

over prolonged periods.

design.

From electricity to water

criteria as stipulated in the Water

30

“We headhunted water-processing

“It was actually rather difficult.

Supply Act at the time. The well

technicians from other companies

Groundwater processing is

water the Japanese had used

and created a research team. But

challenging, even today. The fact

through the centuries was

the research came to a standstill

our company overcame these

essentially used by everyone at their

when the research team was greeted

obstacles may be the very reason

own risk. But when Wellthy actually

with hostility from the electricity-

we are still in business,” Fukuda

inspected this well water, they

saving equipment team. Team

said.

2 011 September

Other Business Developments

T A K U M I

匠

● Well Thermal Heat Pump The Well Thermal Heat Pump combines ground heat and a heat pump, focusing on utilizing the stable underground temperature, and exchanges energy more efficiently than conventional heat pumps. The pump has a wide variety of uses, such as heating and cooling conventional homes, gyms and agricultural facilities. (The diagram illustrates agricultural use.)

Example (when being heated)

From the Workshops of Monozukuri Manufacturers

Plastic greenhouse

Ground-heat heat pump

Heat exchange equipment

The amount of heavy oil used by a boiler can be significantly reduced when using the ground-heat heat pump, reducing both energy consumption and cost.

● Seoale

← Seoale can be carried by hand, pulled, or carried on the back. ↓ [Accessories] Purifier set (primary processing screen, quartz sand filter, activated charcoal filter, UF membrane), replacement paper filters, replacement cartridges (activated charcoal, UF membrane), plastic gloves

Seoale is a compact water-purifying device which is highly effective at purifying river or lake water into emergency drinking water in four stages. The purifier is easily operated using a manual pump, so no electric power is required. Weight: 13kg, external dimensions: H550mm x W380mm x D390mm, purifying capacity: 60l/h.

Faster progress through practical technology

recycling system.

Apart from making groundwater

water safe for drinking, but water

drinkable, Wellthy also has the technology to process water into various qualities depending on its end use. Bountiful rainwater stored in a tank, for example, can be processed into water for watering or washing cars by controlling the water quality. The water, in this case, does not need to be processed to a drinkable quality. Also, factories that discharge large volumes of wastewater can effectively use the water, and cut water and sewerage costs by installing a wastewater

Fukuda declared, “The day is coming soon when people will not only want that suits their tastes and needs, e.g. soft water for the elderly, or water with a high mineral content.

We are preparing for the day when each household can create the water they want.”

Technology plunges into unexplored worlds and is always advancing.

Wellthy Corporation (Head office)

Kojimachi Crystal City East Bldg., 11F 4-8-1 Kojimachi, Chiyodaku,Tokyo,102-0083 Japan Tel: 03-3262-2431 Fax: 03-3262-2455 http://www.wellthy.co.jp/

2 011 September

31

We asked smartly dressed passersby how they are feeling right now.

Street Snap [Kageyama’s Answers] Q1 Hayao Miyazaki Q2 Air conditioners Q3 Save electricity

□ Name: Anna □ Occupation: Technical college student □ Age: 20 Shirt: H&M Inner shirt: H&M Shorts: American Apparel Shoes: NADIA Sunglasses: American Apparel Bag: CHICAGO

□ Name: Kageyama □ Occupation: Student □ Age: 21 Outer shirt: matohu Inner t-shirt: ohta Shorts: FACETASM Shoes: Bought at a vintage shop Rings: TABOO

32

2 011 September

[Anna’s Answers] Ai Tominaga Q1 Pachinko parlors and video arcades Q2

Q3 I’m more careful about saving electricity.

This Month’s Questions

[Marijera’s Answers]

Q1 Who do you think epitomizes Japanese quality?

Q2 What do you think is a waste of electricity?

Q3 What was the biggest change within you after the recent earthquake?

Q1 Shu Uemura, Rei Kawakubo Q2 Pachinko parlors Q3 We don’t know if we will die tomorrow, or now, so I want to live life to its fullest, every day.

□ Name: Nao □ Occupation: Retail □ Age: 22 Blouse: snidel Skirt: snidel Necklace: poupee Bracelets: poupee, Tiny Bag: yoshiko Barette: Michel Negrin

□ Name: Marijera □ Occupation: Housewife and Fashion blogger □ Age: 26 Dress: G-STAR RAW Shoes: United Nude Accessories: FENDI Bag: Lancel

[Nao’s Answers] ？ Q1 ？ Q2 I Q3 now save electricity.

2 011 September

33

Japan and Me

-The Modern is in the Traditional-

VOI.

3

Francoise Morechand, Essayist

Dare to be Japanese!

While I know I'll never be completely Japanese, after so many years in Japan I have adopted, after my own fashion, certain aspects of how people here live and think. The ultimate example must be the humility I've acquired when discussing my nearest and dearest.

Take this instance. Yesterday while lunching in Paris with some French acquaintances, I was asked what I do in Japan, and so gave a brief explanation. I mentioned in passing that it is my Japanese husband Tatsuji Nagataki who translates my articles and books from French into Japanese. And to pay him a slightly understated compliment, I added that while no genius, the old chap does have something of a way with words. My compatriots around the table were horrified. “What a thing to say!” they protested. I felt a need to vindicate myself by explaining further.

To wit, in Japan, where I've lived now for almost fifty

Things that are wabisabi

Things that are not wabisabi

Intuitive

Logical

Relative

Absolute

Handmade

Mass-produced

Valuing the here and now

Future-oriented

Adapting to nature

Adapting to technology

Organic (soft forms)

Geometric (forms without ambiguity)

Extolling the virtues of nature

Extolling the virtues of technology

Natural materials (wood, stone...)

Unnatural materials (plastic...)

Becoming more attractive with age

Deteriorating with age (concrete...)

The obviously unfinished (a crooked matcha tea bowl...)

The obviously sleek and smooth (a porcelain teacup...)

Calm acceptance of ambiguity and contradictory elements

Abhorrence of ambiguity and contradictory elements

Warm

Cold

A love of shadow

Overly-bright lighting

Utility not always a priority

Utility as no.1 priority

Non-material things ranking highest

Materiality is the ideal

Tolerance for natural wear and tear and the passing of

Faith in things that don't wear

the seasons

34

years, people place great store on the attitude known as kenson: modesty or humility. For example, a man might refer to his better half as his gusai, literally “foolish wife”, and his child as a “piglet”, even if he believes them to not be the slightest bit stupid or porcine.

Having brought up this subject, the discussion turned to the oft-covered territory of honne (what a person is thinking) and tatemae (what they actually say). Now this is a subject big enough to write a book about, and not a few have done just that. Here though I prefer to consider the concept of “wabisabi”, which is underpinned by a sense of impermanence, the notion that everything, living or otherwise, has its time and will pass. Because this too is related to the idea of being humble.

2 011 September

Françoise Moréchand

私と日本

The following are just personal thoughts, but in my view, right now--when the mind-boggling impact of the tsunami has made a people overly proud of their technological sophistication realize that they are just as powerless before the wrath of nature as their ancestors--is the perfect opportunity to take another look at the Japanese idea of wabisabi. And not just in Japan, but all over the planet. Why? Because an emphasis on wabisabi is precisely what we now need in a world that smugly believed everything was controllable.

The sensation of wabisabi is hard to explain. Even for the Japanese, who are skilled at picking up unspoken nuances, describing wabisabi is a tall order. So to help you construct a clearer picture in your mind, I'll start by providing a list of what is wabisabi, and what is not.

Allow me to give a very specific example of wabisabi in everyday living. A few years ago, I was invited to a tea party at the home of former prime minister Morihiro Hosokawa, a man for whom I have the utmost admiration. He currently lives in a house in

Izu that his maternal grandmother (of the Konoe family) used as a holiday villa. A bookcase occupies one whole wall of the living room, and supporting its shelves are tree branches. While straight enough to serve as vertical pillars, they still have their bark, are gnarled and knotted, and are obviously just tree branches, pure and simple. The kind of wabisabi expressible solely by nature can be breathtakingly elegant.

My conclusion is simple. Now that Japan has experienced a nuclear accident; now that the world is beginning to turn to slow food and sustainable energy, this must surely be the moment for Japan to start promoting the wabisabi lifestyle largely forgotten since the Meiji Period, when Japan copied not only the best things about Western civilization, but the worst as well.

By doing so Japan can bring a more modest approach to the world: an attitude the world could do with plenty of in a century that has started with so many challenges.

2 011 September

35

36

2 011 September

Sake to Drink From a Wineglass

Aoki Brewery

In Praise of Fine Sake Vol.

5

Junmai Ginjo

Kakurei

Address: Shiozawa 1214, Minamiuonuma, Niigata Telephone: 025-782-0023 http://www.kakurei.co.jp

● ● ● ● ●

Alcohol content: 17~18% ● Seimaibuai (rice milling percentage) 50% Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter Value + dry, -sweet) +2.0 Amino acidity: 0.8 ● Acidity: 1.5 Rice: Gohyakumangoku (with koji and kake-mai) Volume: 720ml ● Price: 1,575 yen (tax inclusive)

Gohyakumangoku

Text/ Kaori Haishi (sake sommelier) Photography/ Susumu Nagao

The Sake that Completely Changed My Image of Echigo Sake

sweetness and umami shoring up the

another good match. With seasoning

sides. The extremely gentle aroma

that’s slightly on the strong side, it cries

would never interfere with the flavor of

out for a chaser. Eat the salmon roe

food. In short, this is a sake with a

straight, or put just a tad on scallop

I still can’t forget the shock of my first

beautiful and dignified expression. You

sashimi to add sweetness to a

encounter with Kakurei. Niigata sake is

can sense in it the robustness of a

consummate balance of flavors. Then

predominantly a crisp, dry, light style of

woman from the bitterly cold snow

luxuriate in the sumptuous spread of

sake that flows like water over the

country region.

flavors across the palate.

Instead of flowing like water, a rice-rich

It has a long reach that goes with any

Kakurei completely changed the image I

umami flavor superbly blended with a

food, but I would suggest trying oysters

had of Echigo sake. I’m sure it will

refined acidity left an intense impression

and roe. The faint sweetness of Kakurei

continue to go out into the world as a

on the palate. Ever since then Kakurei

surrounds the distinctive pungency of

steadfast sake for the times, and not

has become a familiar face and regular

these, while its sourness resets the

betray the expectations of sake lovers.

sight at the table in our house.

palate. Chablis is often said to be a

Numerous fans wait eagerly for

good accompaniment to raw oysters, but

Takafumi Aoki, president of Aoki

The Junmai Ginjo Kakurei

once you’ve tried this pairing there is no

Brewery, to stir up a revolution in the

Gohyakumangoku is one of my favorites

going back. I can also strongly

sake world. Takamori Saigo, the

in the line-up of Kakurei sakes. It has a

recommend this combination from the

historical Meiji restoration figure the

refined acidity that is lovelier than

viewpoint of becoming familiar with the

president takes after, also began a

anything, reminiscent of Muscat of

latent potential of Kakurei. If you’re

revolution, and was known as the last

Alexandria, the queen of grapes. This

eating fish roe, then Niigata Kashimaya

true samurai.

forms the core of its taste, with rice,

salmon roe steeped in soy sauce is

palate. But Kakurei was different.

2 011 September

37