JQR vol.16 Octover, 2012

10.11 2012 OCT&NOV vol. 16

FREE

SPECIAL INTERVIEW Asia Pacific CEO, GE Capital Real Estate

［FEATURE］Kyoto Traveling Kyoto like natives

Experiencing Machiya ● Four key questions and answers that will help you develop a deeper understanding of kyo-machiya townhouses ● What it means to live in a machiya ● Machiya-houses you ought to stay at while you have the chance. List of machiya available for rent through the Machiya Stay program

NEW

Japan Undercover Other Eyes and Ears Travels Down From the Ridge

● Guide to Restaurants, Bars and Cafes in Kyoto ［A Conversation with Foreign Residents ］Living in Kyoto

History, quietness and Convenience

eng.jqrmag.com

Octover 2012 (published on Oct&Nov 25, 2012) CO V E R

Photography/Satoru Naito

C O N T E N T S 05

NEW

Japan Undercover Hiroyuki Abe

07

NEW

Other Eyes and Ears HAMAJI Michio

08

Kyoto

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Experiencing Machiya

● Four key questions and answers that will help you develop a deeper understanding of kyo-machiya townhouses ● What it means to live in a machiya ● Experience a “Machiya Stay”,the “Iori” way ● Machiya-houses you ought to stay at while you have the chance. List of machiya available for rent through the Machiya Stay program

30 Guide to Restaurants,

Bars and Cafes in Kyoto

34 ［A Conversation with Foreign Residents ］Living in Kyoto History, quietness and Convenience 40

SPECIAL INTERVIEW

Asia Pacific CEO, GE Capital Real Estate

François Trausch

44

Touring the Festivals of Japan

The “Fighting” Tanabata of Kesenchō

49

NEW

Travels Down From the Ridge Bruce Huebner

51 The Shirano Theater

Publisher and Editor-in-Chief Jun Shinozuka Editors

Jun Nakaki Christine Lavoie-Gagnon Dai Furusawa Michael Konin Kato Lyu nari

Designer

Wakako Kawasaki Tomomi nomura

Translation

Manabiya Inc.

JQR editorial department

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-2270 JQR advertising department

2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0064 03-3518-4488

03

HIROYUKI ABE

An inside look at what makes Japan tick

Japan Undercover

vol. 1

vol.1

The Future of “Cool Japan” The phrase “Cool Japan Strategy” has

Japanese products are happy about

“Cool Japan” business is not without

been around for a while now. And

receiving pirated versions. They're

meaning, it may end up being a one-time

indeed Japanese soft power does appear

looking for the genuine article. But even

occurrence. To be sustainable, such

to have gained a certain level of

if small and medium-sized Japanese

efforts really do need to be driven by the

recognition internationally.

enterprises like us want to expand

private sector. The Japanese

In early July I attended Japan Expo

overseas and offer people the real thing,

government should instead be joining

2012 in France, curious to see just how

we lack the financial clout, which makes

forces with the likes of JETRO (Japan

far Europeans have actually taken

things difficult. Without government

External Trade Organization) and JBIC

Japanese culture on board. Certainly the

backing of some sort there's not much

(Japan Bank for International

sight of a venue overflowing with

we can do...”

Cooperation) and directing its efforts

cosplaying fans of Japanese anime,

So, one might ask, is the Japanese

toward providing financial assistance,

manga, J-Pop and fashion gathered from

government sitting on its hands here?

consulting services, etc. for those

across Europe was quite astounding.

The answer is no. The Ministry of

wanting to develop businesses on the

But here's the snag: most of the booths

Economy, Trade and Industry, headed by

ground. This would be far more helpful

were from countries other than Japan.

Minister Yukio Edano, is channeling

to companies endeavoring to expand

That is to say, many of the exhibitors

considerable resources into the Cool

their “Cool Japan” businesses overseas.

represented Korean, Chinese, or Arab-

Japan strategy. This has included

Moreover, as the aforementioned

financed businesses that had jumped on

launching an initiative to give the Cool

company president stressed, in doing so,

the “Cool Japan” bandwagon in eager

Japan strategy momentum by helping

“The presence of local people familiar

pursuit of big profits. Pricing was

companies and creatives that are part of

with the country in question's various

strategic, underpinned by cheap labor.

the Cool Japan dynamic move into

rules and regulations will be

Faced with skilled imitations, Japanese

overseas markets. Specific examples to

indispensable for any Japanese firms

companies are struggling to compete.

date include disseminating the latest

hoping to operate there.”

“Japan Cool” has in reality become “Asia

Shibuya fashion news in Singapore with

It's a steep learning curve for Japanese

Cool”. While contributing to the

an eye to boosting future sales, and

companies that have not hitherto made

economic development of its Asian

partnering with an Indian TV station to

any serious attempt to develop the

neighbors may be virtuous, it's a terrible

localize characters from Japanese sports

“Japan brand” internationally, but without

shame that Japan itself is missing out

cartoons (e.g. changing baseball to

some sort of forward progress “Cool

on the earnings.

cricket), broadcasting content altered to

Japan” will never be a source of

The president of a firm displaying

feature so-called “local heroes”, and

overseas income.

Japanese antiques at the Expo lamented

backing efforts to encourage sales of the

The success of the Cool Japan strategy

that “In Europe very little is genuinely

strategic merchandise (such as toys,

hinges on whether both officialdom and

'Made in Japan.' It's all fake. But this

stationery, children's goods, and apparel)

the private sector are serious about

doesn't mean people in Europe who

offered by various licensees.

making it work.

actually understand the value of 'cool'

Though such government backing for

After graduating from Keio University with an economics degree, earned a Master's degree in international relations from the International University of Japan. Worked in the business section of Fuji Television covering the then Ministry of Trade and Industry and Ministry of Finance, responsible for business and economic issues. Following stints heading the station's NY bureau, as a News Japan newscaster, and head of the business and economics section, is now a commentator.

Hiroyuki Abe

2012 Oct&Nov

05

ds Ears mon wor d n a m s gh co r Eye Othe ight throu ins tural l u c r e ~ Int

Other Eyes and Ears

耳 異 異目 Dervish Who？ >>>

Vol.1

Vol.1

Dervish Who ？

Upon hearing the word “darubisshu”,

whirl round and round in billowing

The United States is home to a diverse

most Japanese would say “Ah, you

skirts.

mix of every race, creed and color

mean the baseball player?”. As in the

Asserting that “All men are equal under

imaginable, and this state of affairs is

much talked-about pitcher Yu Darvish,

Allah”, they make simplicity their

taken entirely for granted. Thus the

who transferred from the Hokkaido

guiding principle, rejecting materialism

name Darvish fits in neatly with that

Nippon-Ham Fighters to the Texas

and distancing themselves from worldly

diversity and is seen as a perfectly

Rangers, a U.S. Major League Baseball

things, surviving by begging for alms. In

ordinary name. So when Americans are

team.

some quarters the term Dervish is seen

told that the pitcher Darvish currently

However, if then asked who the

as equivalent to “pauper”, but a more

playing in their country is actually

“Darvishes” are, and where the name

appropriate interpretation would be

Japanese, they are surprised,

comes from, very few Japanese would

“ascetic”.

highlighting an intriguing cultural gap.

be able to answer straight away. On the

Shia Islam, one of the two main

Another “Dervish” can be found in the

other hand, most Americans would

branches of Islam, venerates the

mid-Manhattan business district around

immediately think of the “Whirling

Prophet Muhammad's disciple and

47th St and 7th Ave. in the form of a

Dervishes” (Darvish and Dervish being

son-in-law Ali as an Imam. The pitcher

Turkish eatery, with a sign proclaiming

pronounced the same in Japanese).

Darvish's first name, Yu, is written

it to be a “Mediterranean Restaurant”.

The term Dervish (sometimes Darvish

using the character 有 , which can also

Sure enough, inside one can see

or Darvesh) refers to adherents of

be read as Ari or Ali.

pictures of those whirling Dervishes.

Sufism, a Shia Muslim sect. The

Darvish's father apparently came from

Mevlevilik Dervishes of Konya, a

Iran and was likely thinking of the

province in the central southern region

Shiite prophet when he named his son.

of Turkey, are known for their dances of

Incidentally, Darvish's full name is

prayer, in which they wear fezzes and

Sefat Farid Yu Darvish.

HAMAJI Michio

International business consultant. Part-time lecturer at the Bunkyo University Faculty of International Studies.

After graduating with a degree in economics from Keio University in 1965, studied at a foreign trade college before taking up a post in the Middle East in charge of oil for a trading company. At the age of forty-five, launched a new career in the information business and moved to New York. Following jobs at a translation company and Japanese-US communications firm, chose the path of self-employment in 2002. Set up the Saudi Arabian pavilion at the Aichi Expo. Has worked on a series of music videos on renowned conductor Leonard Bernstein. Japanese advisor to firms such as U.S. information systems company Cognizant and U.K. educational publisher Pearson.

2012 Oct&Nov

07

This narrow alley is so Japanese, isn't it. Is there really a house at the end?

(Julia, 28, is modeling in Japan.

She is from the vast Russia and loves traveling ♼ )

08

2012 Oct&Nov

Hello! Is someone here?

2012 Oct&Nov

09

What a lovely room!

This will make my trip to Kyoto a hundred times more fun!

10

2012 Oct&Nov

(This gorgeous Japanese townhouse is one of many of Kyo Machiya Stay's: "Minoyamachi." To learn more, see our special feature.)

2012 Oct&Nov

11

JQR SPECIAL

in Kyoto

京都 Experiencing Machiya

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Kyoto has a history spanning 1200 years.

Since time immemorial, it has nurtured a mesmerizing breadth and depth of tradition and culture. To touch upon the heart and soul of Kyoto, it is best to immerse yourself in the traditional lifestyle. We suggest a leisurely stay in a machiya townhouse, the dwellings built many years ago for the common townspeople, in order to explore and appreciate the hidden charm of the city. It will unlock the door to a realm of travel.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

12

2012 Oct&Nov

M

A

C

H

I

Y

A

2012 Oct&Nov

13

Lecture by Professor Yoshifumi Muneta

Four key questions and answers that will help you develop a deeper understanding of kyo-machiya townhouses In 1864, many houses in Kyoto were destroyed by a fire caused by the Hamaguri Rebellion. The construction of the workplace-cum-dwelling townhouses known today as machiya began shortly afterward. The wooden architecture provides a special nostalgic atmosphere to the city’s landscape. Even today, the remnants that epitomize the way of living as practiced by the original inhabitants and their wisdom and

Storehouse

Garden

innovative spirits abound. To help you understand the true charm of machiya architecture, we asked Professor Yoshifumi Muneta, a machiya expert and researcher advocating machiya restoration efforts, to answer four key questions.

Q A

What is the reason for the narrow front and deep rear of the machiya structure?

Like the old urban cities in Europe and Asia that served as commercial and industrial centers, Kyoto was populated with merchants and tradesmen who desired street-facing

Q A

What is it like to live in a machiya?

Most machiya houses today are equipped with modern amenities, including a full range of kitchen equipment.

However, the real character of machiya housing lies in

storefronts, and this resulted in plots shaped like thin strips. They are

traditional elements, like the ambience only mature wooden houses

cousins to schieras, linear houses and shophouses. Kyoto natives

can emanate, and the tsuboniwa miniscule garden, which conveys

mockingly call them “eel’s beds.” Many people mistakenly believe

changing seasons and the fresh smell of well-trimmed trees and

that the narrow frontage was a result of the tax assessment practice,

plants. Even today, many residents alter interior elements of the

which was based on the width of the property facing the street. In

house, such as sliding doors and fixtures, twice a year to match and

fact, the tax practice was enacted after these townhouses were built.

supplement the summer and winter ambiance. Meticulous preparation

Even today, however, some neighborhood associations assess

is also required to set up the interior of machiya for monthly events

community activity charges scaled to the width of the frontage. The

and annual festivals like Gion Matsuri, but machiya owners also know

shape of the land had added design benefits, like allowing residents

that the joy of welcoming guests to their freshly decorated houses is

to build a workshop, storehouse or garden filled with trees and plants

immeasurable. Kyoto natives take exceptionally good care of their

in the rear to suit their tastes

kimonos and other belongings because they are essential to a lifestyle firmly anchored on the traditional seasonal rituals and

14

2012 Oct&Nov

customs of the city.

京都 JQR SPECIAL

in Kyoto

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Professor Yoshifumi Muneta Born in 1956. B.S and M.S from Hosei University (Faculty of Engineering, Major in Architecture).

Studied urban and regional planning at the Universities of Pisa and Rome. Joined the Faculty of Human Environment, Kyoto Prefectural University as Associate Professor in 1993 and promoted to full Professor in 2012. Over many years, Professor Muneta has studied revitalization planning for urban centers. Publications include Theory of Machiya Restoration (Gakugei Shuppansha).

Shedding new light on the kyo-machiya’s charm

Typical Machiya Layout

The charm of the kyo-machiya is now appreciated by the people of Kyoto. Their rediscovery of machiya was not so much a result of conscious efforts to conserve their history, culture and traditions so much as a consequence of their growing weariness of a

Kitchen

monotonous and unexciting urban lifestyle.

Courtyard

It’s been almost 70 years since the end of the war, but contemporary architecture has failed to create a landscape that outshines the ambience rendered by machiya townhouses, both individually and collectively, as well as the streets surrounding them. The people who have lived in great historic urban centers Reception

Shop Space

around the world, like Paris and Florence, know how to appreciate the beauty of kyo-machiya, which are to them at least on an equal footing with the urban splendor of European cities, and they know how to enjoy life based on that appreciation. Machiya were first discovered by artists as attractive spaces to live and work. Young people with good taste followed suit.

The long-time residents of machiya are also re-discovering their beauty, which lies below the superficial surface.

Q A

What are the special features of the machiya structure?

Machiya townhouses exist across Japan and their characteristics are as varied as their locations. Kyomachiya, or machiya in Kyoto, are known for their lavish

Q A

Is it true that machiya houses are disappearing?

For the residents born before the war, occupying their family’s machiya house for their entire lives was the norm rather than an exception. However, many post-war

use of relatively elaborate and delicate materials and their light,

generations have left their machiya for detached homes in suburbs

supple construction. The building technique of placing columns on

and condominiums. A growing number of the younger generations

cornerstones is an ancient one commonly used for shrines and

who left machiya for suburbia don’t know what to do with a machiya

temples. Although not permitted under the current building standard

once they inherit it from their parents. While they don’t want to give

act, this construction technique has been proven to offer superior

up a prime property in the inner city, they also don’t want to face the

seismic resistance according to recent studies, which confirm that the

cost and effort of maintaining a machiya, which may already be in a

columns absorb the seismic power as the quake displaces them out

frail state. The City of Kyoto advocates the preservation of machiya,

of the cornerstones. Larger kyo-machiya houses are made up of

but disappear from the map each year for the aforementioned

multiple structures such as a front section, principal house,

reasons. On the other hand, a growing number of residents and shop

storehouse and an annex. The storehouse is made of clay and is

proprietors are now interested in renting vacant machiya to give new

extremely fire resistant. In the past, people used the storehouse to

life to them.

store their valuable kimono and obi.

2012 Oct&Nov

15

Houses that withstood the test of time are beautiful in and of themselves.

What it means to live in a machiya

The Ono Residence is a typical machiya representative of the omoteya-zukuri style. Its storehouse (built in 1903) and principal residential quarters incorporates the Sukiyabashi design. The playful sprit of the carpenters can be seen everywhere, including a unique design that takes advantage of a curve across the storage bins just below the ceiling. In January 2012 the Ono Residence was selected by the City of Kyoto as one of the “buildings and gardens worthy of preservation in recognition of its contribution to the city landscape.”

My machiya is like a prodigal daughter. She splurges a lot, but I love her dearly.

onotei

ono tei

235 Yakushicho 1-Chome,Matsubara-sagaru Yamato-oji Higashiyama Ward

Haruhisa Ono

“I bought this machiya simply because it looked

the right distance – very comfortable. And a

great, but the truth is I didn’t know anything

machiya is very quiet. In summer, the wind blows

about it,” Haruhira Ono confides. He had to enlist

in from the gardens and lowers the room

the help of a master carpenter and a college

temperatures. The difference between indoors and

professor who lectures on machiya. Armed with

outdoors may be as large as five degrees Celsius.”

the knowledge gained through these lectures,

In winter, however, the house gets very chilly. Ono’s

Ono was finally able to establish a “dialogue”

toes were covered with frostbite during the first

with his machiya, which he loves dearly. “But I

winter. “To cope with the winter chill, I realigned

warn you, she is a real money eater.” For his

my thinking a little. I just bundle up even while I am

machiya, which had been vacant for 10 years

home. This way, I’ve had no problem surviving the

prior to his purchase, he had to spend five million

freezing winter with just one kerosene heater since

yen just to harden the foundation.

my second year living here,” Ono says. “Thanks to

The beauty of a machiya lies in its spiritual

my machiya, my body and soul are completely

charm, according to Ono. “I feel totally relaxed in

attuned to the four distinctive seasons and their

here. When you sit down on the tatami mat, the

passage.” His machiya has become his beloved

space between your head and the ceiling is just

nesting ground.

Mr. Ono is willing to share his machiya with overnight guests (one group per day). For details, call 075-531-2601.

Carpenters’ expertise and connections are key to the successful revitalization of machiya houses.

Hirohisa Tomiie is an architect who advocates the

Hirohisa Tomiie Registered Class-1 Architect, Tomiie Architectural Design Firm

restoration of machiya houses. Machiya provide agility and mobility to their inhabitants. Houses do get older, but replacing the malfunctioning parts is all it takes to prolong the life of a machiya. For this, the expertise of carpenters is absolutely essential, says Tomiie.

“Machiya are like boxes containing a lifestyle, and they wouldn’t have existed had it not been for the lifestyle in need of that box, and as the lifestyle that requires machiya is disappearing, so are the reasons to live in one” Tomiie explains. “For instance, the degoshi wooden lattices that cover a machiya’s doors are removable. During the Jizo-Bon festival, the lattices are removed so that the street and front chamber are spatially connected, and children are allowed to enter and exit the house as they please. As a growing number of residents decide not to observe this cultural

16

2012 Oct&Nov

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Machiya are often accused of being too dark, bleak and devoid of frills, but they are the product of hard work and craftsmanship by carpenters, as well as the ingenuity of common folks who racked their brains to devise a house that would ensure comfortable and pleasant living for the many generations of family to come.

We asked two machiya residents to share their stories.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

Built in the early Showa era, Furukawa’s machiya is relatively new.

Compared with its elder cousins, its ceilings are high, and some rooms are western style. Nonetheless, it is built in the classical omoteya-zukuri architectural style, which typically combines the residential and working spaces. “I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable it was to live in a machiya,” notes Furukawa. “I anticipated more inconveniences.”

furukawa

Furukawa tei 516 Kikuya-cho, Kamichojimachi-sagaru Kameyacho dori Kamigyo-ku

Machiya are the manifestation of a lifestyle.

“This machiya was built by my maternal great

His family understood his deep affection for the

grandfather in 1929,” Furukawa explains as she

house and have done very little to alter it. As a

ushers me into a sun-drenched reception room

result, this machiya’s original shape and glory is

facing a garden. The house is notable for its

well preserved.

abundant use of glass, a fixture that began to enter

Only after Furukawa moved into this machiya six

the life of people only in the Showa era; hence the

years ago did she understand the wisdom of the

rooms are unusually well-lit, unlike most machiya

people involved in the construction of this house,

houses. It features luxury materials like Yakusugi

which was very much centered on how to let its

cedar for the second-floor ceiling.

inhabitants lead a pleasant life. “This house is the

“My great grandfather was a kumihimo (cord-

manifestation of a pleasant lifestyle. And I have

braiding) craftsman, and he was not particularly

come to appreciate it.”

wealthy. But according to his daughter, who is my

What Furukawa discovered were the unspoken

grandma, he was ‘scrupulously diligent’ and didn’t

insights into life that her ancestors left many years

fool around or splurge on drinking or hobbies, and

ago.

poured all the money he earned into this machiya.”

Rieko Furukawa

Imahara Machiya Furukawatei’s rear reception room overlooking the garden is available for nabe pot parties. Lunch is also served, on Fridays only. For a reservation, call 075-203-5169.

heritage and no longer remove the lattices, there is

floor of the doma space with a floor covering or install

of demolished machiya to refit the one being

one less reason to preserve the full functionality that

modern kitchen components. If indoor lighting is not

renovated, since some fixtures, like hand-blown glass

the machiya offer. As a result, some residents decide

adequate, we create a skylight out of the atrium ceiling

plates, are no longer produced. Restoring a machiya

to demolish those doors to make room for a garage

and we refit mushiko windows (windows covered with

requires the ability to coordinate all aspects of the

space. I have been involved in machiya house

slits cut into plaster walls) on upper floors with

work involved, and being able to build a house is not

restoration projects for two years, attempting to bring

aluminum panes.

enough. I am learning a lot from the carpenters. They

back their traditional character and shape.”

Some earthen walls were covered up with veneer

are not only fully versed with traditional building

“Restoration may entail repairing warped frames,

boards in the past and as a result the walls have

techniques, they know where to go to find the right

refilling earthen walls and replacing old beams with

deteriorated. To rescue the original walls, we strip off

material for refitting. Their connections are

new ones for added strength. We try to stay true to the

the veneer to allow the walls to breathe in fresh air.

indispensable.”

original floor layouts. We sometimes finish the bare

We buy and clean second-hand fixtures that were part 2012 Oct&Nov

17

M

A

C

H

I

Y

A

S

T

The true pleasure of travel is the fun of blending in.

A

Experience a “Machiya S the “Iori” way Hideki Kajiura, President of Iori Co., came up with the idea of restoring empty machiya, or traditional Kyoto townhouses, and providing visitors with an experience completely different from staying at a typical hotel or Japanese inn.

We asked him about the story behind that effort.

Photography: Satoru Naito

Text/JQR Editorial Staff

Hideki Kajiura Graduated from the University of Tokyo Faculty of Law. Joined the Japanese National Railways (JNR) in 1980. After leaving JNR in 1987, served as director and advisor to several companies before establishing Iori Co. in 2003. Serves on a number of committees for the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry and the Agency for Cultural Affairs.

18

2012 Oct&Nov

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Y

Stay”,

2012 Oct&Nov

19

The luxury of relaxing in an elegant machiya

20

2012 Oct&Nov

京都

Learning the art of travel from co-workers

In my two years in Kanazawa, I

Traveling Kyoto like natives

they’d say, or “Machiya are cold, dark,

learned what it’s like to travel where I

and cheerless—no wonder they’re

lived, and that gave me a hint: Why

disappearing!” And of course, seeing as

After college, I joined the Japanese

couldn’t I turn an ordinary home

I was from Tokyo, I couldn’t get anyone

National Railways, and it wasn’t long

somewhere into accommodations for

to trust me.

before I found myself assigned to work

visitors, rather than having them stay in

The days stretched on as I suffered in

in Kanazawa. This was the first time I’d

hotels or inns? That was when I came to

obscurity before finally, one day, I made

lived there, so naturally I spent time

Kyoto, and first encountered Kyoto-style

the acquaintance of a real estate agent

learning my way around. That was when

machiya.

who was actually trying to preserve

I first experienced the generosity of the

Kyoto really provides the ultimate stage

Kyoto’s traditional machiya.

local people, as co-workers showed me

for creating a new concept for tourism.

I was so happy the day I finally got hold

around their city.

For one thing, it is Japan’s greatest

of my first usable machiya, but I knew

In spring, we’d head to the mountains to

sightseeing destination, with over 50

one alone wouldn’t make a business, so

pick wild vegetables and dig for bamboo

million visitors a year, 20 million of

I waited until I’d lined up three of them

shoots. Stopping at a friend’s house on

whom stay in the city. If tourism in Kyoto

before I started renovations. That effort

the way back, his mother would cook

changes, it has the potential to change

began with basic repairs to these

what we’d gathered, crowding the table

the entire country.

abandoned and damaged properties.

with dish after dish, which would fuel

Across Japan, about 100 sites have

I had pictured creating comfortable living

the drinking that followed. Those were

been designated by the government as

spaces and using quality materials. And

really fun times. In the summer, we’d go

important traditional architecture

yet, the carpenters didn’t get it—we just

to the home of a friend in Noto who ran

preservation districts, including beautiful

didn’t connect. I’d spend a few days

a guesthouse, and take early-morning

old castle and temple districts, merchant

staying in each machiya as it was

trips on local fishing boats. No sooner

and port towns, and farming and fishing

completed, trying things out, and I’d

would we bring back our catch, when it

villages. Unfortunately, many of these

always find something that need fixing,

would appear on the breakfast table as

areas also suffer from depopulation, as

something else that should’ve been done

fresh sashimi, accompanied by hot rice.

people age and families continue to

differently, more work to be done to give

Kanazawa also has hot springs, and

move away. I also learned that even

the rooms a better flow. The renovations

every cherry blossom viewing or farewell

some of the most wonderful, cultural

weren’t cheap, of course, and in no time

party provided an excuse to visit them. It

asset-class homes now stand empty. I

a few rounds of “just fix this” or “let’s do

was surprising to see how the hot

thought that if there were a way to make

that” would turn into a shocking pile of

springs were really just an extension of

use of these machiya and other old

bills.

everyday life for people in Kanazawa.

private homes, it would not only give

One of my bosses even took me to the

these regions a boost, but perhaps could

old entertainment quarters in

even attract visitors from abroad. I

Higashiyama, where we had fun

decided to give the idea a try first with

carousing with the geisha. All of these

the machiya of Kyoto, turning them into

things I experienced while I was young

places to stay.

left me with the sense that every place in Japan has its own idea of a good time, usually something you won’t find in the course of an ordinary trip, or in the

No end of trouble gets me my first decrepit machiya

This being a tourist business, I wanted to find machiya that were conveniently located. Land in Kyoto proper is expensive, though, and since we can’t afford to buy them, we lease all of our

My decision made, I set up a company

machiya instead.

in December of 2003. That summer, I

Banks, too, are tight with their money

started talking with people about the

when it comes to investing in other

concept of “staying in a machiya as you

peoples’ homes. Even with a clear

would your own home,” and began

business model and a detailed budget it

looking for properties, but early reaction

was difficult; finding investment capital

These pleasures were no longer

was less than positive. No matter how I

was a real challenge.

available once I returned to Tokyo, and I

explained the idea of reusing these old

And then someone introduced me to the

left JNR around the time of its breakup

traditional townhouses, real estate

Kyoto City Venture Business Evaluating

and privatization. In my mid-40s, I finally

agents just wouldn’t work with me. “No

Committee.

decided to do what I most enjoy, and set

tourist is going to want to stay in a filthy

up my own travel business.

old house, no matter how you fix it up,”

pages of any travel guide.

2012 Oct&Nov

21

The attractions of living in a traditional Japanese home

22

2012 Oct&Nov

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

At the time, Masao Horiba, founder of

those owners whose desire to preserve

different from the old sightseeing regimen,

Horiba Ltd., was chairman of the

the machiya make it possible for us to

and we hope people will be happy with our

committee. With Kazuo Inamori of

do business.

efforts.

Going forward, we will continue to build on

Kyocera and Yasutaka Murata of Murata Manufacturing serving as vice-chairmen, the committee include an impressive lineup of members. The committee gave my presentation the green light, and I was finally able to borrow funds under

Getting a taste of everyday living, While experiencing Japanese culture

the appeal of these old traditional townhomes. In doing so, we hope to approach these projects not from a designer’s ideal, but instead in terms of the comfort and ease of use of those who will stay in the homes. While Iori’s architect is responsible

their financing scheme. Things finally got off the ground once we were able to

Our hope is that we can help visitors not

for giving shape to the plans, what’s really

apply those funds to the renovation

only experience Kyoto’s charms, but get

interesting and most rewarding about this

effort.

a taste of the depth and refinement of

work is the time we spend on-site, working

traditional life here. It goes beyond

out the details with our carpenters, plasterers, and other craftsmen.

This is why I’m always so happy to hear from visitors

Once the work was done,

who may have come for

the media took up our story,

Kyoto’s shrines and temples,

and people who saw the

but ended up spending their

reports started getting in

time lying around at home, or

touch, some of them

conversely, those who came

individuals living in

specifically for the chance to

condominiums who

lounge around in one of our

happened to own vacant

machiya. Some visitors tell us

machiya they hoped we

they came to sample Kyoto’s

would use. Unfortunately,

wonderful cuisine, but spent

because we were operating in a limited area, we had to turn down offers for homes

the rest of their time just

Hideki Kajiura, President and founder of the Machiya Stay program.

He is also working on rural revitalization efforts.

relaxing. That tells me we’re on the right track.

There are even a few parties who have

in other districts, but all of this

looking for an inexpensive place to stay,

eventually led to a system by which the

or simple curiosity about Kyoto’s

stayed at all of our properties. Over the

owners of the homes would put up the

machiya; we hope to welcome visitors

course of repeat visits, they seem to find

funds for their restoration.

from overseas who respect Japan’s

their favorites. They may all light on one

Because the properties remain in the

culture, and who appreciate the finer

particular machiya, while some may stay in

hands of their owners, banks will lend

things in their own lives.

one place in the summer, and another in the

them money for renovations. Once the

In Kyoto, the noh and kyogen theater,

fall.

work is done using those funds, we sit

tea ceremony, flower arranging,

Since the events of 3.11, in hopes of

down with the owners to discuss the

calligraphy, and traditional Japanese

spreading the word among the Japanese as

rent we’ll pay. The rate of return we can

dance are all close at hand. Thanks to

well, we’ve also provided more opportunities

offer isn’t all that great, but the deals get

introductions to some of Kyoto’s most

for people in our neighborhoods and other

done because these owners are truly

distinguished instructors, we’ve been

residents of Kyoto to visit our machiya. They

intent on preserving their traditional

fortunate to have their cooperation in

can participate in our art project, and several

homes. They really think about our

developing an arts program that enables

times a month we hold tours of our machiya

business, and that helps us arrive at a

visitors to experience some of these

for local residents. Through these efforts, we’ve

reasonable rent together. I suppose

cultural activities for themselves. Our

heard from several people who said they

property owners who are more interested

aim is to ensure that visitors to Kyoto

might not have torn down their old homes if

in making a profit off of real estate would

enjoy themselves, and for our visitors

they’d known they could be preserved so

knock their houses down and put up

from abroad in particular, that they return

nicely. Nothing pleases us more than

buildings that would max out their

home with an even greater love for

providing the motivation those currently still

floor-area ratio and serve as an

Japan. We work to put forth a new

living in their traditional homes need to fix

investment, so I’m always grateful to

approach to travel, something completely

them up and continue living in them.

2012 Oct&Nov

23

noh

Ochayaasobi

The arrival of Fukuhiro and Fukunae brightened up the dimly lit room. I was transfixed by the fascinating dance performed by the two ladies in front of the golden screen. Their dance repertoire consists of about 40 works.

It was a dream-like 2.5 hours packed with entertainment and games

kyogen

JQR highly recommends staying at a machiya

Kyoto is an old capital city where traditional

Machiya stays bring guests closer to the real charm of Kyoto.

customs still constitute an integral part of the

Of course, that all depends on how much or how little you want to explore

include some cultural activities in your itinerary,

daily lives of its residents.

To enhance your trip and add new dimensions to your Kyoto experience, we suggest you

Your creative horizons will expand enormously even when you are away from home, if a

along with the usual tours of places of scenic

more flexible and carefree use of lodging is acceptable. Why not rent an entire machiya

beauty and historic interest.

house to ensure privacy and pursue special activities? A wide variety of diversions may be

We suggest Machiya Stays, which is a system

arranged, including ochaya-asobi (dance, games and cultural conversation with geiko and maiko), traditional arts workshops and small private events with special guest artists right

that allows you to experience Kyoto like a

in your machiya. If you want a cozy dining experience in your home away from home, there

native. You rent an entire machiya house in

are many caterers that can fulfill your gastronomic dreams. All you need is the willingness

the inner city, and this house will be your home

to try out new things to get the most out of your Kyoto experience.

away from home. The people next door will

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

instantaneously become your “life-long

24

2012 Oct&Nov

A 600-year old form of theatrical drama. Strangely, many Noh plays feature ghosts as the main characters. The Noh program is taught by Tatsushige Udaka (Shite, Kongo School) and includes lessons on basic movements and demonstrations by the instructor. Participants have opportunities to see exquisite fans, costumes and masks which are actually used on stage.

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Comic drama that traces its origin roughly to the same period as Noh. The instruction by Yoshinobu Shigeyama (Okura Kygoen School) will begin with the mastery of laughter. The participant is told to open their mouth as wide as possible and produce a series of long “ha” sounds from the diaphragm while going down the scale.

Shigeyama Sensei makes sure that learning is a fun process, and every lesson is filled with laughter.

neighbors.” Each machiya house is stocked

machiya under this system?

asobi (entertainment by geiko (geisha) and

with everything you need to live like a native,

According to Ms. Hongo of Iori Co., the

maiko (apprentice geisha) as well as games

and some have tatami rooms that may be

operator of Machiya Stays, instruction in a full

and intimate conversations with them in a

connected together (by removing fusuma

range of traditional arts, from the tea ceremony

private party usually thrown in a teahouse) may

partitions) and converted into a spacious

and flower arrangement to Noh drama, kyogen

be arranged and staged right in your own

tatami banquet area. These houses are very

and ancient martial arts may be given right in

machiya. Ochaya asobi may sound too

functional. Since no meals are served by the

your “home.” First-class professionals active in

exclusive for first-timers, but the geiko and

machiya owner, you are free to go restaurant

their respective disciplines will visit your

maiko in their iconic thick white make-up with

hopping in the city. If you are too lazy to go

machiya to personally give lectures. For

bright red lips and huge Shimada chignon

out, you can bring in some liquor and send out

ancient martial arts, which require a spacious

hairdos will perform music and dance to the

for some ryotei haute cuisine. In a nutshell, you

hall to exercise and a large number of

tune of Gion Kouta and teach you traditional

decide what you get out of your stay, and the

participants, the Noh stage located at the rear

party games like Konpira-Fune-Fune and Tora

opportunity to experience it will present itself.

of the Sujiya-cho machiya may be used.

Tora. Their elegant manners and soft-spoken

What options will be available if you rent

Aside from traditional arts activities, ochaya

Kyoto dialect is guaranteed to mesmerize you.

2012 Oct&Nov

25

kitsuke You select a kimono and obi sash from seven or eight options, and a professional will help you put them on.

After getting dressed up, you are free to stroll the streets or go out for dinner or other functions

Instructors will bring seasonal flowers suited for the tea ceremony and other accessories and help you arrange flowers in the traditional Japanese way.Your machiya will become a very special home away from home, if you display your own flower works.

chabana

Luxury of sending out for haute cuisine from your “home”

PM

Machiya stays don’t come with meals. Why don’t you use a catering service to enjoy your meals in the comfort of your own machiya?

Kyoto restaurants specializing in traditional Japanese cuisine and other options are known for their sumptuous meals on wheels, and their offerings are quite extensive.

AM

Breakfast catering

by Kissa Nakatani Coffee set (\5,000) Includes sandwiches and coffee (hot or iced) for 5 people. Juice may be served as well.

TEL.075-525-0823

Catering by Hyoki Hoan Kaiseki Course (\9,240) Kyoto style cuisine looks simple on the surface but is full of seasonal delicacies.

This includes:Sakizuke Amuse-bouche/Hassun tidbits/Suimono clear soup/Nimono simmered dish/Yakimono grilled dish/Nakazara middle dish /Sumono vinegared dish/Rice dish/ Pickles/Mizumono seasonal dessert.

A menu written on washi Japanese paper accompanies the course.TEL.075-211-5551

26

2012 Oct&Nov

Machiya-houses you ought to stay at while you have the chance. List of machiya available for rent through the Machiya Stay program Each machiya has withstood the test of time and is ready to offer guests some unique experiences. Renovations that adhered to the old traditions were combined with sophisticated furniture and decorations to create a classy and serene ambiance.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

Gion Shinmonzen Townhouse

Gion Shinmonzen ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 137㎡ Guests are greeted by seasonal flower arrangements on the back of a partition screen illuminated by andon lamps as they enter through the latticed entrance door. Relax in an atrium with a hardwood floor, a tatami room with a garden view, or indulge yourself in a Koyamaki pine hot tub.

Retro kaidan-dansu stairs with built-in cabinets lead to the second-floor space.

Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and one bathtub

Minoya-cho Townhouse

Minoya-cho ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 186㎡ Guests have to stroll down a narrow alley with a courtyard on the left before reaching an entrance that dates back to many years ago. The hardwood-floor room on the first floor extends to a deck overlooking the Higashiyama Mountains that stand behind the Kamo River.

This machiya also has a gallery-cum-corridor and a tea-ceremony room. The spacious and luxurious structure also boasts a large hall on the second floor.

Two tatami rooms, one large tatami hall, one hardwood floor room, one loft, two toilets and one shower

Sanbo-Nishinotoin Townhouse

Sanbo-Nishinotoin ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 136㎡ The first floor has a tea-ceremony room, a serene tatami room and a bathroom with a garden view.The second floor, which previously functioned as an artist studio, features a spacious room with a sofa and large picture windows. This hardwood floor space has a character that is in stark contrast to the first floor.

Two tatami rooms, one large tatami hall, one hardwood floor room, two toilets and one bathtub

Nishioshikoji-cho Townhouse

Nishioshikoji-cho ● Capacity: Two to 14 persons, 210㎡ Classic Machiya elements are well preserved in this townhouse, including an ebony central pillar, thick rafter beams across the ceiling and a tea-ceremony room, complete with details like a well in the kitchen and toro lanterns and a tsukubai basin in the gardens. This townhouse has many rooms, letting it accommodate large groups comfortably.

Nine tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and two bathtubs

Nishirokkaku-cho Townhouse

Nishirokkaku-cho ● Capacity: Two to four persons, 93㎡ Built over a century ago, this cozy machiya is filled with sunlight that streams through the Mushiko window slits, shoji screens and the latticed door. The first floor contains a tea-ceremony room, a garden-view tatami room and a hinoki cypress bathtub. The upper floor has a spacious hardwood floor room containing relaxing couches.

Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, one toilet and one bathtub

28

2012 Oct&Nov

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

Sujiya-cho Townhouse

Sujiya-cho ● Capacity: Two to 10 persons, 279㎡ A 130-year-old renovated gem originally owned by a bean wholesaler. This grandiose structure is filled with the charms of machiya, including a doma space highlighted by black stucco plaster, a garden across the reception room that enters your sight as you step into the house, an atrium, an attic room with exposed beams and a Shinto altar.

Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and one bathtub

Ebisuya-cho Townhouse

Ebisuya-cho ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 118㎡ The meticulous attention to detail exercised by a tea-ceremony instructor is evident throughout this sukiya-themed Machiya. Kakejiku hanging scrolls in the hardwood alcoves adjacent to the tatami rooms, an unassuming and yet refined display of flower arrangements on the Kamachi floor border, and a tsuboniwa garden that enters your sight across another room make this machiya an ideal place for a relaxing respite.

Four tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, one toilet and one bathtub

Izumiya-cho Townhouse

Izumiya-cho ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 109㎡ A large screen, a plain tokonoma hardwood alcove and a low table add traditional touches to a tatami room. As you walk to the deck adjacent to the tatami room, you will be pleasantly surprised by the fresh breeze from the Kamo River and a view of the Higashiyama Mountains. The simple, rectangular layout is easy to use.

Two tatami rooms, two hardwood floor rooms, two toilets, one bathtub and one shower

Ishifudono-cho Townhouse

Ishifudono-cho ● Capacity: Two persons, 66㎡ One of the semi-detached machiya twins found deep in an alley. This pied-a-terre isn’t physically big, but has many features, including a hinoki cypress hot tub overlooking a garden and a well (not in use) in the atrium-style kitchen.

A quiet perfect hideaway for a couple.

Nine tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and two bathtubs

Nishijinisa-cho Townhouse

Nishijinisa-cho ● Capacity: two to five persons, 134㎡ This one-of-a-kind machiya combines a textile studio and residential quarters. A tatami room with mushiko windows and a hinoki cypress hot tub are on the first floor. The textile studio is visible from the hardwood floor space on the second floor. Why not wake up to the sound of textile looms? A studio visit may be arranged.

Two tatami rooms, two hard-wood floor rooms, two toilets; one bathtub and one shower

About Kyo-Machiya Stay Kyo-Machiya Stay offers a new mode of Kyoto travelling whereby travelers rent an entire machiya townhouse filled with traditional charm for an overnight stay. You are welcome to immerse yourself in the machiya and really experience what it feels like to live like a Kyoto native.

Also available are Origin Art Programs, whose instruction offerings cover many Japanese traditional arts, such as Noh drama, kyogen, the tea ceremony, calligraphy and ancient martial arts. For details, please contact Iori Co. (Phone: 075-352-0211). http://www.kyoto-machiya.com/

From October 26, two new machiya properties in Tamaya-cho will be available for rental.

2012 Oct&Nov

29

The

12 0 2 n m u t u A

Guide to Restaurants, Bars and Cafes in Kyoto

Kyoto, the city of exquisite food. It’s hard to choose from the many renowned restaurants serving everything from traditional Japanese kaiseki food to French and Italian cuisine. Here we introduce restaurants where the food is good and the atmosphere is relaxing. If you only have limited time, start by making a reservation.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

Japanese cuisine

NIJYO TSUBAKI In an alley off Nijō-dori stands a renovated machiya where you’ll find Nijyo Tsubaki. Wine cools in an antique sake warmer and wooden bucket at a unique counter made with tatami. Spotlights create contours of light and shade. When you sit down at the counter it feels like you’re in a tiny theatre. The food consists of five to seven traditional kaiseki dishes, with tempura to finish. Both set courses and an la carte selection are available. Open continuously from 12:00 to midnight, and with breakfast available if ordered by the day before, the service is a blessing for travelers. A range of delicious sake is available to accompany the perfectly prepared seasonal fish and vegetables that form the core of the menu. If you’re staying in Kyoto, this is definitely one restaurant you should visit.

Nijyo Tsubaki Breakfast/Fukutsuzumi course 3,670 yen (reservations only) Lunch/Two courses: 3,150 yen and 5,250 yen Dinner/Three courses: 7,350 yen, 10,500 yen and 12,600 yen Tempura and other dishes available on request Reservations required TEL. 075-256-2882 Open on all regular days 92-12 Enoki-cho, Higashi-iru, Teramachi, Nijo-dori, NakagyoWard, Kyoto

30

2012 Oct&Nov

(left) Wagyu beef with matsutake mushroom. (above) Simmered rockfish and autumn vegetables

Owner Mitsunobu Komine. A sake connoisseur with bar experience. He also has some rare pure malts and many brandies tucked away.

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

“I want to run a restaurant that can be enjoyed casually” says owner-chef Shogo Tamura. Much of the crockery is made by Japanese artists.

French kaiseki

TAMURA Chef-owner Shogo Tamura was born into a family that ran an old Kyoto cuisine restaurant. From childhood he learnt the work of a chef and trained in a French restaurant in Kiyamachi. He conceived the idea of eating French cuisine with chopsticks and opened the Tamura restaurant five years ago. While cooking French style dishes, he boils vegetables in Japanese soup stock and uses soy sauce in his sauces.

Employing Japanese techniques in French cooking adds a rich accent to the food. The first two years were a struggle, but his reputation spread by word of mouth, and now the restaurant is so popular with women and older customers it’s hard to get a reservation.

Tamura Lunch/Three courses: 2,900 yen, 3,800 yen and 5,500 yen Dinner/Four courses: 6,000 yen, 7,500 yen, 10,500 yen and 13,000 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-525-7023 Closed Sunday and the 2nd Monday of every month 2nd building, Furumonmae kiritoshi-sagaru, Higashiyama-Ward Kyoto

French kaiseki

Hors d’oeuvres served in kaiseki style. Roast French quail in Madeira sauce with sautéed foie gras and burdock chips. Accompanied by taro and burdock, daikon, and brandy simmered prunes.

Gion Okumura

TAKUMI OKUMURA/ GION OKUMURA Inside the sophisticated interior of Gion Okumura, the chefs move around briskly on the other side of a bright, simple counter. While it is primarily a French restaurant, chef-owner Naoki Okumura decides whether to use French or Japanese techniques based on a close scrutiny of the condition and seasonality of ingredients. At Takumi Okumura, on the other hand, the simple entrance belies the magnificent and comfortable seating that’s just perfect for the interior. Each dish reflects a sense of tradition related to the seasons and festivals. Naturally the food is delicious, but the appearance is also colorful and beautiful. This is a place to go for special occasions.

A circle of sea bass with red wine sauce

Gion Okumura Lunch/Four courses: 5,250 yen, 7,875 yen, 9,975 yen and 12,600 yen Dinner/Four courses: 10,500 yen, 13,650 yen, 15,750 yen and 21,000 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-533-2205 Closed Tuesday 255 Kitagawa Gion-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Takumi Okumura Lunch/Four courses: 6,825 yen, 9,975 yen, 13,650 yen and 15,750 yen Dinner/Four courses: 15,750 yen, 21,000 yen, 26,250 yen and 31,500 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-541-2205 Open every day 570-6 Minamigawa Gion-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

Takumi Okumura “My challenge is to extend myself by creating new dishes from those I’ve already adapted” says chef-owner Naoki Okumura.

Colorful hors d’oeuvres to match the season.

2012 Oct&Nov

31

Kyoto cuisine

KURITA Chef Akihiro Kurita trained in a traditional Japanese ryotei restaurant that has been in his family for three generations. In 1995 he opened his own restaurant, Kurita, serving Kyoto cuisine.

The snug interior with eight counter seats and one table is the ideal size for Chef Kurita, who says that “The food will not seem delicious if the temperature at which it is finished does not match the body’s sensory temperature exactly.”

He takes no short cuts with preparations, every plate served bearing witness to his craftsmanlike approach. The menu consists of set courses only. The changing of the seasons is clearly reflected in the matching crockery. To appreciate this degree of perfection, you would need to come here every month.

Kurita Lunch/Three courses: 2,800 yen, 4,000 yen, 5,250 yen Dinner/Four courses: 5,250 yen, 7,350 yen, 9,450 yen and 12,600 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-344-0456 Closed Wednesday Shijo-sagaru, Nishikiya-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto

Chef Akihiro Kurita moves busily behind the counter. He does everything himself, from purchasing ingredients to preparing the food.

The seasons are reflected in dishes

(left) Sashimi.

(right) Boiled daikon topped with yuzu miso

Chinese

DAIDENGEKKEN To make Beijing duck raw birds are carefully plucked by hand and marinated whole in a special sauce with natural flavorings for a whole day before being cooked in a special oven.

Daidengekken’s Beijing duck is so popular thirty birds are cooked every day. The rich savory flavor of the meat beneath the crispy skin is exquisite. Other delectable items on the menu include the shark’s fins, lobster with black Beijing chili sauce, or the fiery hot tofu and meat.

Housed in a renovated western-style Meiji-era building, the restaurant has a nostalgic feel, like something out of a film set.

Daidengekken Set lunch : from 945 - 2,100 yen Chinese lunch box: 1,890 yen, 2,625 yen and 3,990 yen Home-style Beijing style course: 5,040 yen Beijing duck course: 6,825 yen Shark’s fin course: 10,500 yen Other items a la carte Reservations required TEL. 075-353-9021 Open on all regular days 173 Minoya-cho, Matsubara-agaru, Kiyamachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto

32

2012 Oct&Nov

From top: Fiery tofu and meat, Beijing duck, crunchy deep-fried fish with fragrant sauce.

The master chef orchestrating this lively restaurant is Kenji Ebina, who has experience as head chef in old established hotels and Chinese restaurants.

京都

Traveling Kyoto like natives

B a r & C a f e Wine bar

WINEGROCERY At the end of a narrow road off Rokkaku-dori you’ll find Wine Bar Wine Grocery in an old style storehouse. Now remodeled, it once belonged to a Japanese-style artist, Keinen Imao, who lived during the late Meiji and Taisho period. The solid interior of this hidden gem is the perfect space for enjoying wine. The glass of wine is to be recommended. It changes weekly, and there are two champagnes, three whites, six reds and a dessert wine on the list. If you feel like trying them all, ask for a 60ml tasting size glass. You can also enjoy a meal here of escargot, ham, pasta and other foods that go well with wine.

“Early in the evening is quiet and a good time to enjoy wine with a meal” says chef-sommelier Tomo Okada. The special menu available until 21:00 is good value at 3,200 for two dishes and a glass of wine.

Wine Bar Wine Grocery Glass of wine: from 900-2,500 yen Glass of champagne: 1,800 yen TEL. 075-255-0117 Closed Sunday and public holidays Nishi-iru, Shinmachi, Rokkaku-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto

The hamburger steak.

Cafe

Cafe

CAFE MARBLE

PETIT JAPONAIS

The atmosphere inside this renovated machiya is lively, with couples and groups of friends enjoying themselves. It has a warm feel, like visiting a friend’s house, and you could imagine spending a long time in here. The menu offers plenty of choice such as quiche made with two types of cheese and stuffed with vegetables, scones, lentil curry and homemade tarts.

CAFE MARBLE TEL. 075-634-6033 Closed Wednesday 378 Nishimae-cho, Higashi-iru, Bukkōji Takakura

Baked kiwi fruit tart and coffee set for 800 yen.

Michie went from working in a company to becoming a pastry chef. Now she holds cake-making classes for small groups and makes cakes with a passion. The café serves seasonal cakes as well as meals such as quiche and croquemonsieur. Take away is also available and cakes for special occasions can be ordered.

The passion fruit cream tart and red peach and strawberry tart are each 450 yen.

“The tarts, quiche and everything else is delicious because it’s all homemade” says owner Machiko Matsuura.

PETIT JAPONAIS Closed Thursday, and the 1st & 3rd Wednesday of every month Higashi-iru, Bukkōji Tōdōin, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto

The passion fruit cream tart and red peach and strawberry tart are each 450 yen.

2012 Oct&Nov

33

apan J t u o b A Talking

を

話 A Con

そ

う

ith Foreig versation w

● n Residen

ts

We are sitting quietly outside on the wooden edge one of its ageless magical inner gardens. A soft br autumn sun. The decor is perfectly matching what being the heart of Kyoto. Except that none of us is appearance. As the majority of foreigners in Japa as their base, for a few some, there is nowhere el has met with three of them to find out why.

JQR Most foreigners choose to live in Tokyo, why not you?

I decided to move here for cultural and business reasons. I am like one of those baseball cards collectors who know all the statistics and details about all players, but to ceramics. Ceramics come from West Japan, from Kyushu up to Nagoya. What people call the 6 old kilns of Japan are mostly in this area. An hour away from Kyoto you have Shigaraki, or Tamba, or Echizen, or Bizen a short train ride away. So to be close to the art that I so love, it just made sense to be here.

I like the city, so I love to visit Tokyo or Osaka, but Kyoto almost feels like the countryside. It is surrounded by mountains, there is a river running right through it, and I also love nature. I like jogging, bird watching, and all of this is never far away. I used to go rainbow trout fishing on my own when I was ten years old, so when I come here and sit in a traditional garden, it makes me feel some of that.

The part I like of Kyoto is the human scale of the city. Unlike Tokyo, where you often can't manage your own movements with the long distances or flow of the crowds, here it is easy to decide if you go by bicycle or by bus, it is easy to understand the city and to manage it your own way. If you want the historical part of it, it is right there, if you want the modern part of it there you go, there are nice cafés everywhere, it's very easy to network.

Kyoto is a living museum just like Florence or one of those historical cities.

And it's easy to cycle from one end to the

34

2012 Oct&Nov

Joel Stuart Painter, print and installation Artist who arrived in Japan 26 years ago. Originally from Washington State in the US, he finds Kyoto as the ideal work environment for him.

Living in Kyoto History, quietness and convenience

e of Honen-in temple, facing reeze is warmed by a bright t anyone would imagine s Japanese... or at least in an could only think of Tokyo lse than Kyoto on earth. JQR

Joel Stuart Oussouby Sacko Robert Yellin

other within 20 minutes like I did this morning to come here.

We have department stores, Internet, we can live internationally here, it's not like we're isolated.

You often hear the Japanese say that Kyoto people are difficult to reach, to access, because there are lots of codes.

What I find most interesting is that it is much easier for foreigners, because Kyoto people are very willing to teach you all those codes and all about Japanese culture. Most of Japanese people coming from other regions would never dare to ask so they create their own barriers. And I think Kyoto people often reduce the structure of those codes when they are with foreigners!

But that “distance” is very useful for me. You can choose to use it or not when you feel like it. I've ben living here too long, so when I go back to the UnitedStates, where people are completely in your face, telling you their opinion about everything, I go, “Why do I have to hear this?”

LOL! JOEL For example I have a friend who is Oussouby Sacko

Robert Yellin

also an artist who lives in the countryside

From Mali, he studied architecture for 6 years in China before moving to Kyoto where he planned to finish his studies and get a year or two of work experience before going back... but that was 21 years ago.

Ceramics curator, born in New Jersey in the US, he arrived in Japan in 1984. He has since written several books and created the world's largest English language database on Japanese ceramics.

After years in Shizuoka, he made the move to Kyoto 15 months ago.

of Shiga. There, 5 times a day people just come in, sit on the couch and chat about his paintings. And he likes that attention.

Me, I wouldn't be able to get anything done if people came. So people here leave me alone when I do my work and if I want to engage, then they come. So that works for me.

All that adding to the fact that Kyoto wasn't bombed during World War II,

Meet our iewees!!! rv three inte 2012 Oct&Nov

35

with all of it. And it's

wouldn't choose Kyoto as their first spot,

all easy access. I

unless they have a special interest at

don't use my car

things Japanese and get an opportunity to

anymore.

teach here for example. It's true that as Kyoto is

Asia from the first place and that is why

modern buildings,

we ended up here. It's a much easier and

problems and

natural choice for us.

solutions. It's a place

As Joel said before, the

where you can study a

constant contact with nature is very

lot, constantly. I teach

inspirational as a source for creativity here.

two architecture classes and one of

Wherever your eyes wander, you notice nature inspired patterns everywhere!

so there is charm here that can't be found

them is about Kyoto. I don't know why,

On roof tiles, sidewalks, sometimes a

in other cities.

but..

gingko leaf can be extended to an extreme contemporary style, but nature is present

LOL !

JQR What is that charm?

During the summer program, we have students from Hokkaido to Okinawa.

It is to walk and get lost into

all the time in all different layers of interpretation.

And the people contributing to this program

winding narrow streets and every time

are easy to reach and make themselves

getting lost leads to a new discovery.

available for you. I am not sure people in

That's been there a looong time. Here

Tokyo with their busy lives would be as

JQR So why not live in the countryside?

True, but then you are not

when people refer to war, they speak about

much easily reachable within such short

available to the people who are coming to

the Onin war, which was in the early

delays. You can always make a little time

this city. Over 50 millions of tourists from

1400's. And the city has modernized, so if

here in Kyoto. Even just a few hours.

inside and outside Japan visit Kyoto each

you look for the latest gadgets they won't be concentrated in one area like Akihabara,

Here people live in a slower pace,

you'll find what you want.

JQR Yes, Kyoto is charming, has a very rich history, etc. But you can come here on

year. So you can find both kind of stimuli from nature and people.

for sure.

but if you dig around, I am pretty sure

Yeah. My friend was visiting

Well like I said, my friend who has

from Manhattan, and she said, “I could

chosen to live isolated and to deal with

never live in Kyoto!” It's a quiet sleepy

neighbors sitting on his sofa is very happy

little town at night! It really is!

with that lifestyle. And for you who are

The balance between a big city and

from Tokyo, Kyoto feels almost like the

vacation to seek for that. How does that

this quietness is a perfect environment for

countryside, right? So to me it is the best

affect you in your daily life?

creativity.

combination of both! Living here is like You definitely get more personal

Why not having your whole life

creativity here than Tokyo.

LOL! Why not wake up and have no difference of who you are and what you do? And be surrounded by beauty, waking into a dream instead of waking up watching a clock? I walk around and there are so many interesting cultural aspects to discover. We don't get all the big events as in Tokyo, like the rock bands that I'd

JQR You three are indeed working in creative fields. Do you think that it is the reason why you adapted so well here?

Would it be as comfortable a life for an Engineer or a person working in finance, for example?

Well, when

like to see. We have more of the traditional

I studied here it was

culture, which is timeless. You know, Lady

Engineering oriented

Gaga will be forgotten in 10 years, but

architecture, so it

“Gaga” will be performed in Gagaku in

doesn't really matter.

shrines for another millennium.

You can be here and

LOL!

be in full contact You have beautiful pockets of

charming places all around Japan, like Matsue or such, but this city is just filled

2012 Oct&Nov

driving a car, I can press the gas pedal when I want to speed up the pace but I also can put on the breaks and back off

as a vacation?

36

artists or architects, we were inspired by

made of ancient and

with Tokyo.

Engineers

whenever I want.

YEAH!!

JQR Is Kyoto the same as 20 years ago?

Well it Kyoto is a very organic city. It

can get pretty

changes all the time, within itself. Things

crowded during

are not taken from the outside. And you

the peak tourists

are in direct contact with “living” history.

season! One night

You know, people saying their family has

I thought I could

been buying tofu in the same small shop

take a walk

for a hundred years, or going to the same

around a temple

place since many generations.

to see the autumn

A lot of old storehouses have been

leaves quietly by

transformed into cafés or boutiques. You

myself and....

didn't have those before.

there were

The café gathering culture in

busloads of

Kyoto is very old. There are so many

people shuffling

schools and universities, and all the

through as you might do at Shinjuku

expression, but I think it's particularly

philosophers were gathering here.

station!

difficult to grab the right meaning of things

And Kyoto has always been avant-garde. A lot of aspects of Japanese

here in Kyoto!

LOL!!

Right!

Kyoto people are very patient. It

The second thing, I think that one

culture have been born here and

is a quality, but it sometimes can be

revolutionized things. Kyoto is very

difficult to deal with. For example I

of the biggest backdrop is that they try to

traditional, but also very avant-garde. Many

sometimes did parties at home when I was

keep everything a little bit expensive here,

avant-garde companies were born here too!

younger and my neighbor used to tell me

to keep the high standard Kyoto image.

smiling, “Oh it seems you had lots of fun

Most of the time they sell things you can

last night!” So I was just replying by

find everywhere, but if it is written “Made

not stagnate. You don't want a fossilized

inviting him to the next one, but later on

in Kyoto” or “Kyoto Style”, then the price is

town, so you constantly have to create!

someone explained to me that he was in

higher!

Kyocera, Nintendo...

Tradition is good, but it should

fact complaining!

JQR OK, you convinced me that this is a great place to live, but there MUST be a backdrop? A dark side?

LOL!

You know the term “KY”?

True!

But again, everyone is

No, what does it mean?

contributing to this. A restaurant is very

“Kuki Yomenai” attributed to a

proud to write on their menu that they've

person who just doesn't grab what's

been serving this tofu from the same place

happening around. It's a common Japanese

for a hundred years.... even though it is

2012 Oct&Nov

37

more expensive than any other tofu!

Or like “Fu Ka” ?

Yes ! I'm a good friend of them,

Kitamura or Nomura. They are small and

we just hang around in a nice pub

most often focused around tea. Japanese

downtown, where they have crafted beers

culture wouldn't be much without the tea

and so. It's kind of a hub for us to connect.

but I'm always surprised to see how you

culture. Even a soy sauce jar or chopsticks

can get rich selling Fu ! (Puffed bread like

rests, they all come from tea.

wheat gluten pieces) But it's just not Fu, it's Fu Ka! (Famous Fu shop) LOL! Sometimes I crave for food that I can only find where I come from, like natural breads or particular types of

Also, Kyoto is surrounded by

JQR So none of you are thinking of going back home anymore?

mountains, small sized, and not very advertised about. And on top you often

Home is the place where I live,

have small temples. So when I want to

so Kyoto is home to me now. And I never

refresh I just take a walk up and discover

think of going “back” somewhere. I always

really nice interesting and quiet places.

go forward.

To me if I want traditional Kyoto I

Yes the term “home” is quite

cheese. But in fact I'm happy I CAN'T find

go to small galleries, quiet gardens and

difficult to define sometimes. Is it the place

all those, because I'd be this big right now!

temples, too. But about 15 years ago I

where you were born, or the place where

changed my way of seeing famous places.

you spend the most time? I have a house

My friend was leaving to Hokkaido and

here, with a family, and a job. I am doing

wanted to hit the famous places once

something I like and I feel comfortable too.

more. So we went to Ryoanji a few minutes

So is it my home? Or my second home?

LOL! But I love Japanese food and diet.

So I am really happy here.

Or the most negative point to me is that you can't get good sushi here!

Your best hit would be the pickled Sanma-zushi!

before streams of people would go through

I was in San Diego for a lecture

and we sat at each end to take photos.

recently and it is not at all the San Diego

When the first bus of tourists came in I

that I knew back in the seventies!

thought “Oh no” but then I found myself focusing on the Zen garden forgetting

country sometimes, like the social

got me. So what are the best places that

completely about the noises and the

proximity between people. But when I go

you never see in tourist guides or secret

people around. So you can still go to

back to Mali, I have enough after one

areas you would never tell a magazine

famous temples and just focus on what

week!

about?

there is to see and enjoy it for hours if you want. It’s a Japanese experience!

I like my house!

I also love to spend time in cafés.

LOL! Yes, the term home is very relative.

My wife would like to go and live

Some are built in old places like “Machiya”

somewhere else for a couple of years and

and the atmosphere is always very

it would probably me who would have a

beautiful garden and it's filled with

peaceful, not like noisy cafés in Paris for

reversed culture shock and would want to

beautiful art, so I don't go out much! But I

instance!

come back here! After 26 years in Kyoto,

LOL! I mean, it's an old house, with a

also love to go to small museums like

38

I know. I miss things from my

JQR All right, so this city is just great. You

2012 Oct&Nov

Yes, when we want to meet people

this place feels pretty much like home!

Life here is like a vacation!

Nature is omnipresent.

Kyoto is at human scale.

2012 Oct&Nov

39

Tokyo is still under urban development

40

2012 Oct&Nov

C'est dans une sa chic et moderne accueilli JQR. Le idée du soucis qu chef pour le côté CEO de GE Capit pas un novice en jeune, il a reçu un passer dix mois à sous le charme d de difficulté à con sa famille de reve sa carrière dans l chez GE à Paris e de Directeur Asie déplacements, il avec nous sa visi marché immobilie

S P E C I A L

alle multi-fonctionnelle que François Trausch a décor donne déjà une u'a l'entreprise et son é humain et chaleureux. Le tal Real Estate Asie n'est n terre nippone. Plus ne bourse d'études pour à Tokyo. Il est alors tombé du pays et n'a donc pas eu nvaincre son épouse et enir s'y installer lorsque l'immobilier bat son plein et qu'on lui offre le poste e. Entre deux a bien voulu partager ion du Japon et de son er.

I N T E R V I E W

Real Estate in Japan: an unexpected growth!

It is in a chic and modern multifunctional room that Francois Trausch welcomed JQR. The decor itself gives you a big hint on how the company and its CEO pay attention to its warm and human image. The Head of GE Capital Real Estate Asia isn't a new comer to Japan. Younger, he was granted a scholarship that allowed him to come to study for 10 months in Tokyo. He then fell under the charms of the country and so didn't have much trouble to convince his wife and family to come back to live here, when he was offered the position at the peak of his career in Real Estate at GE. Between two business trips, he was kind enough to share with us his views about Japan and its market.

– The first particularity of the real estate market of Tokyo is its scale.

We talk about a population of 30 million inhabitants and you can't just come here hoping to grasp everything after six months. It is an extremely difficult market, but this mystery makes all its charms. You need a lot of time to understand its evolutions, its tendencies, its orientations. 15 years ago, Shinjuku was the place to go, nowadays as growth has slowed down there, people rather go to Shinagawa, near Haneda, which has become an

25 years ago” When I came to Japan 25 years ago, it was in a completely different context, with the strong yen, the economic bubble, in an all different period. But I think that in urban terms, Tokyo is even more beautiful today than back then. There is more infrastructure, more attractive buildings, great urban projects were realized... Well, there is a big paradox between those saying that Japan has gone through 20 years of non-growth and to me, the fact that more than a few countries in the world would be very happy to go through 20 years of non-growth too, if the result is like Tokyo today!

Within this urban “jumble” that is Tokyo, some promotors like Mori with Ark Hill and Roppongi, or later with Mid-Town, have changed the way to build new buildings, with a certain attention to esthetics. We saw popping out “mixed-use” projects that combine offices, commerce and hotels, a phenomenon that was relatively new here. A good example is around Marunouchi, where 20 years ago there were solely offices, as today, streets are more attractive and it gets busy even during the weekends!

When you don't know Tokyo, you imagine high-rises, three-level

François Trausch

Asia Pacific CEO, GE Capital Real Estate Photos / Susumu Nagao Texte / Rédaction JQR

international airport. There are a still a lot of moving streams in this city that has only 50-60 years of reconstruction, compared to European cities that have more fixed landscapes, you know where to be at. So to me this is always interesting and surprising. “ Tokyo is much more beautiful than

highways, traffic, an enormous megalopolis, 30 million people, concrete everywhere and lots of pollution. For me who comes from Paris, which is well known as THE romantic and quiet city, well in reality it is extremely noisy, full of cars, and very polluted.

So when you arrive to Tokyo, you see the complete opposite! It is almost like

2012 Oct&Nov

41

BEFORE

AFTER

➡

a bunch of villages linked together, the city is not polluted at all and is much more quiet than most European towns.

There are indeed three-level highways, but a hundred meters away you can live in a village atmosphere with small houses. Furthermore, this traffic that is just there cannot be heard at all, so you have a very calm environment.

That is Tokyo's contrast.

“Tokyo is at human scale” My work makes me travel to China very often. What is happening over there is amazing, but towns are quite uniform, all made after the same plan.

Tokyo however with its “jumble” is more at human scale to some aspects, has more diversity, richer dimensions.

Compared to China, which is soaring

and has uncountable projects, here when you read the newspaper in the morning you are told that the population will greatly decrease during the next 50 years, that apartments are empty, etc. In fact, all this is not true. The paradox in Japan is that despite its inertia, there are pockets of important growth. If you can find those pockets you can do great business.

Moreover, as Japan is a wide and liquid market, the cost for financing is very low. You can finance at 1% to invest in an apartment building that will give you 5%. Very few countries in the world offer 4% return-on-investment.

The reality is that Tokyo's urbanization is actually developing.

That is to say, the country's decrease in population affects the rural regions badly, but to the benefits of bigger cities. The number of households in Tokyo is increasing, because of the higher number of singles, which boosts up the demand for small apartments.

That is why we positioned ourselves in the studio segments in Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka and Nagoya.

We are also active in the mid-sized office building segment. They are usually of 5-7 stories, with 300 to 500 sq m floors. Some are no longer complying to seismic norms and their tenants (80% of companies in Tokyo are SMBs with around 20 employees) have decided to move elsewhere after the great earthquake last year.

They opt for buildings with more recent structures and better energetic systems. We thus invest in high quality buildings, but that sometimes have

42

2012 Oct&Nov

tired looks, so we refurbish them with more to-day tastes in order to attract this clientele.

I always insist on sustainability and new energy systems. The Government is actually ready to grant a lot of financing in this area. So we work with our tenants to change equipments and allow them to reduce their energy cost.

This is a sector that is developing and Japanese people will push it significantly because when they take a decision, they really do things until completion.

The fact that we are a foreign firm doesn't really cause any problem.

After 15 year of presence on the market, we have made our proofs and are now well accepted. However, there are things that we will never be allowed to do. Never will we be able to buy in Marunouchi for instance. It will always remain between Japanese companies. This phenomenon exists of course everywhere in Asia or Europe. But here the difference is that some building owners will never sell whatever happens, as for a Chinese owner, who tends to be more of a trader, will consider selling if he sees potential profit. The ownership, the sense of propriety is stronger in Japan.

It is thus up to ourselves to stand in market segments with possible development.

“The language barrier is the most difficult” The most difficult thing for me as a foreign CEO, is the language barrier.

S P E C I A L

I N T E R V I E W

So I let all the client relation aspect to my Japanese teams. When they ask me to join them, then it is generally when it's time to make official apologies! This is probably a Japanese thing, but it's normal, it is my role and fortunately, it doesn't happen very often! My goal is to make my teams feel trust, that I will never let them down. In Japan when you lose face, you can be pushed out of the market for several years. This relation with the client is something that I miss a little bit. But as I don't have any added-value there, I don't try to impose myself.

“Japanese love construction” Japan has a very industrial side, would it be in automotive or construction.

They must roll the machine, so they demolish to reconstruct. It is probably related to the fact that the land price is extremely high. It counts for 70% of the investment and the building itself for 30%, so it is easier to decide to demolish. But Japan loves construction.

Even in not so proper economic periods. Here not all the projects can be justified financially and I am very sure that most wouldn't make it through anglo-saxon deals in terms of return-on-investment! It is a different mentality.

“I laugh alot with my Japanese teams” Even with all my experience in team management, I think that it is much more easier here that in France. Of course, within a same company half of the codes are the same. But the second half is very different. Japanese don't hesitate to use more humour and I laugh more here than in Paris!

Real estate attracts people that don't necessarily fit into the mould, who don't come from the same university, and we recruit young people with English-speaking skills or women of talent who would have difficulty to continue their careers in other firms because it is traditionally a men's field.

“The Japanese real estate market lacks of transparency” I am always amazed that in such an elaborated market it is so difficult to obtain information. You buy a building in Canada, you know at which price were sold the 10 buildings around, who the tenants are, how much the

rent is, etc. In Japan this is extremely difficult to know. You have to make a lot of efforts to get this type of information, which is always asked

by North-American investors because they are used to have that kind of data in hand. This sophisticated market is not as transparent as you would think it should be. On another point of view, this aspect is protecting us from new comers. One cannot arrive one day from Paris or New York, and buy a building right away.

here” One of the sides of Japan that are not enough shown to the world is this all new generation of young entrepreneurs that are really creative and put up with very innovative business concepts. As Steve Jobs was saying when he'd go to Kyoto to find inspiration, “design was born here.” We too often forget this fact, which brings to me a lot of optimism for Japan.

“My teenagers can have a taste of liberty... within borders” Another aspect that is incredible in Tokyo, is the transportation system.

Living here is a marvelous experience for my two children of 14 and 16.

They can have a taste of the liberty of teenagers, within well guarded structures. They can move around town using public transportation without any criminality risks. Back in Paris I would have never let my 12 year old son take the subway to go to the Champs-Elysee. In other cities, you have to use a car, so children are always depending on their parents.

PROFILE François Trausch is the Asia Pacific CEO of GE Capital Real Estate and concurrently President of GE Capital Real Estate Japan, based in Tokyo since two years ago. He previously was CEO Western Europe for the same firm in France, after being active in the industry for several years in Germany and the US.

“We forget that design was invented

2012 Oct&Nov

43

Vol. 6 Touring the Festivals of Japan

A Clash to Commemorate the Lost (August 7) The “Fighting” Tanabata of Kesenchō

The dashi (floats) are affixed with long shafts, which are used to ram the opponent’s float as they come crashing together.

This float was newly constructed, based on fragments of a wheel found in an elementary schoolyard after the tsunami.

Tanabata decorations made of Japanese paper(washi).

The “Fighting” Tanabata festival returns to a disaster-struck town The Tanabata Festival is generally thought to be held on July 7, but in many cases, such as the famous Sendai Tanabata Festival, the actual date is based on the old calendar and the festival held a month later, on August 7. The Kesenchō Kenka (“Fighting”) Tanabata I visited on this trip to Rikuzen-Takata in Iwate Prefecture is one such case.

Rikuzen-Takata is known as one of

44

2012 Oct&Nov

the cities devastated by the tsunami that followed last year’s Great East Japan Earthquake. Rail lines were cut off, and there’s still no word on when they’ll be restored. I took an 11 p.m. red-eye bus from Tokyo’s Ikebukuro, arriving in front of Rikuzen-Takata’s temporary city hall, built on high ground, at 6:38 the next morning. A taxi I’d reserved ahead of time then took me to Kesenchō, where the festival would be held. The piles of

rubble everywhere were just as I’d seen on TV so many times. “This is where the train station once stood,” pointed the taxi driver, but where he pointed not even a trace remained.

The scenery remained the same as we crossed the bridge into Kesenchō, and I began to wonder if they’d really hold a festival in this place.

The Fighting Tanabata features specially decorated dashi, or floats, from Kesenchō’s four districts, which

The festival that overcame a major disaster,and survived to be celebrated again.

A somewhat more rough-mannered Tanabata,held to the wild beating of drums.

Illustrations and Text/Itaru Mizoguchi

Iwate Prefecture

Rikuzen -Takata

They wave bamboo poles to threaten their opponents.

The only float remaining after the disaster.

After the clash of floats, the contest becomes a tug-of-war.

The winner is whichever float makes it into the opponent’s territory.

Pulling

The shaft, a log of Japanese cedar, is affixed to the base using only wisteria vines, and no nails.

Pushing

Pulling

Float

Ramming

Pulling

Float Pushing

Ramming

Pulling

*Over 100 people pull back and forth.

engage in ramming battles. After three of the four floats were swept away in the tsunami, last year’s festival was turned into a tug-of-war using the single remaining float. The town has since managed to build a second float based on pieces found in the rubble, so this year, the battle between two floats will be back.

By 9 a.m., people have begun gathering a few at a time around the two floats, which have been lined up on what were the grounds of Kesenchō’s Kongō Temple (the

temple’s main hall had been swept away). A man who’d been hanging tanzaku, or strips of paper on which people have written individual wishes, on the floats, asks if I want to try it, so I take the opportunity to help out. Some of the wishes, written in childish handwriting, say things like “I wish for a new house soon,” or “I hope Takata returns to normal,” and seeing them makes me a little wistful, but I’m cheered by others inscribed with things like “I want to become a dancer.” I tie

each one carefully to the float.

At 10 a.m., the floats, which have been purified with salt and sake, are paraded through town, though it’s a town in name only—there are no buildings, only vacant lots. There’s an undeniable shortage of manpower to pull the floats. Once one is pulled to the next appointed spot, everyone has to go back for the second float, and the procession moves forward in fits and starts.

After a lunch break, the battle of the two floats finally begins. A long

45

The morning of the festival, looking out towards the ocean from the elevation of Kesen-Naritasan .

The “Miracle Pine” that was cut down in September for preservation.

Kesen River Working to remove rubble The bridge has collapsed

A community center that just barely managed to survive.

This is where the decorations for the floats were made.

This is where the floats crash together

The lone pine Preparing the outdoor stalls Viewing stand A pre-disaster photo that was displayed at Kesen-Naritasan It’s hard to believe it’s the same place.

This happi coat belonging to the head of the Fighting Tanabata Preservation Society was found among the rubble.

A number of Jizō statues and damaged stone Buddha were gathered in one spot.

At the site of the Kongō Temple, whose main hall was destroyed in the tsunami. shaft called a kajibō, made of a huge Japanese cedar log, runs through the middle of each float, and is used to ram the opponent’s float; any miscalculation can cause a major accident. The floats are lined up facing each other, and their positions carefully adjusted. After the clash, a tug-of-war ensues, with ropes used to pull the floats; whichever team hauls their float into the opponent’s territory first, wins.

Volunteers, squads of middle school

46

2012 Oct&Nov

supporters from other prefectures, and residents of nearby temporary housing arrive by the busload, doubling the number of hands available to pull the floats compared to earlier in the day. Urged on by the people around me, I grab on to one of the ropes and take part in the battle. A voice calling out “Readyyyy…start!” is the sign to begin pulling as hard as we can, as the shafts on each float pass within bare inches of one another before simultaneously ramming their

opponent’s float with a huge crash and a thud. Everyone chants “Yoisaa, yoisaa!” as we pull on the ropes again. Up on top of the floats, valiant fighting drums are beating wildly.

“Yoisaa, yoisaa!” and still no clear winner. When you think about it, it’s kind of miraculous that this traditional festival has survived, here in a town where almost every single home has been destroyed. Even in the midst of a battle for survival, people are enjoying themselves, spurred on by the cries of “Yoisaa, yoisaa!”

The “Fighting” Tanabata (evening round) The clashes take place twice, once in the afternoon and once in the evening.

At night, the floats are lit up with hanging lanterns.

With the pounding of drums, the opponents are ready for battle.

It helps that they’ve had a bit to drink.

Oriyaaa!

Paper strips decorating the floats.

The stalls are set up in a vacant lot, adding to the festive atmosphere.

Kids and grown-ups alike seem to be having a great time.

Paper strips decorating the floats.

“I wish we can live in a new house soon.”

Kesenchō “Fighting” Tanabata Festival

Getting There

This traditional festival, held for one day only on

●By train

August 7 of each year, is said to have been passed

Take the Tohoku Shinkansen and get off at

down over 900 years ago by fleeing soldiers of the

Ichinoseki Station. A bus from there to Rikuzen-

Heike clan. Each of four neighborhoods in the town

Takata takes about an hour and 40 minutes.

builds a float and covers it with colorful Tanabata

●By expressway bus

decorations, with clashing “fights” between the floats

About 7 hours from Tokyo’s Ikebukuro station

a highlight of the festival. The sight of the huge,

via the Kesen Liner (expressway bus); get off at

50-year-old logs of Japanese cedar lashed to the

the stop in front of Rikuzen-Takata’s temporary

floats as they go crashing into one another is not to

city hall.

be missed. Anyone can participate in the “fights,”

●By car

which take place at Osabe fishing port during the

From the Ichinoseki interchange on the Tohoku

day, and on the streets of Imaizumi-chō in the

Expressway, take Route 284, then proceed via

evening. Designated as one of Iwate Prefecture’s

Route 45 to the Kesen Elementary School exit,

intangible folk culture assets.

a trip of about 90 minutes.

RikuzenTakata

2012 Oct&Nov

47

J

Vol.1

A

P A

N

S

H

A

K

U

H

A

C

H

I

Travels Down From the Ridge Americans playing Japanese instruments?

Bruce Huebner（Shakuhachi） Bruce Huebner is the first non-Japanese to receive a master's degree in Japanese music from the Tokyo University of Fine Arts and Music where he studied under the late Goro Yamaguchi, National Treasure. In 1997,he earned his shihan masters license from Chikuyusha, one of the oldest shakuhachi guilds. In 1999 Huebner founded the jazz world group Candela with pianist and composer Jonathan Katz. After creating the koto and shakuhachi duo "Curt and Bruce," withCurtis Patterson in 2008 he began nation-wide cherry blossom concert tours that included vocalist Susan Osborn in 2009. Since the events of March 11, 2011 he has conducted over 60 concerts in the disaster affected areas. As a educator he has released a four-part instructional DVD on shakuhachi in English and is a lecturer at Fukushima Medical

Even after nearly 30 years in Japan I

samurai residence or in a shrine in

and I like them, but you guys are

am still asked, “Why do you choose to

the shadow of a sacred mountain can be

different. You are doing this as music.”

play the shakuhachi?” Another

an intense experience for both

Traditional music in Japan is very deep,

comment I often hear is, “I heard the

listener and performer. By going local

but also very narrow. Once you choose a

shakuhachi live today for the first time.

and often playing in “old places” where

particular teacher or school that’s it for

I've missed something of great value

in the past people naturally gathered

life. Dabbling in other styles is forbidden

that was right under my nose. Thank

- temples,shrines, soba shops, historic

under threat of excommunication. The

you so much for showing me!”

buildings, or private homes - we have

upside of this is that there is support

I have been giving grassroots

been able to find enthusiastic new

from the acolytes who appreciate the

shakuhachi concerts in Japan for

audiences. The significance of these

style. They know the difference, and you

several years now. Tickets, advertising

gatherings goes beyond music. Facing

have to respect that.The downside is

and stage management for the

an aging population, general decline and

that audiences are dwindling rapidly. So

concerts are done by locals, often

apathy toward the “old,” some

we aspire to replace “narrow and deep”

without corporate sponsorship, mass

progressive local leaders realize that

with “wide and deep.”

media exposure or Tokyo production

these gatherings serve as a chance for

audience is the educated, music-loving

company involvement. This

people to rediscover a place and then a

general public. Paraphrasing film

collaboration came partly from

community. It is enormously gratifying as

historian Donald Richie, the foreigner in

frustration with the closed system of

musicians to be part of this fledgling

Japan can sit on a ridge and look down

traditional music, the lack of venues,

movement. “I've been to other concerts

into two valleys. He can travel down into

and the apathy of the general audience

where I got sleepy. Yours was enjoyable

and enjoy the fruits of either one. As

toward traditional Japanese music as

all through and your banter between

foreign musicians in Japan we have a

it is usually packaged. “This place was

songs is really good, almost like manzai

perch from which we can venture down

perfect with the instruments.” “I never

(comic dialogue.) “You draw from so

into one valley filled with the traditions

knew shakuhachi and koto could sound

many sources, the concert was really

that we continue to respect and study, or

so beautiful - the setting was perfect.”

interesting. We Japanese can’t do this.”

the other valley of our homeland, drawing

Holding a concert in a 400 year-old

“I put on many koto, shakuhachi concerts

on jazz or classical music, for example.

Our target

We have been blessed with the best teachers and have lived, traveled and been inspired by Japan’s naturalc beauty. We are free to compose and improvise, reinterpret the classics and modern works and take risks. I think musicians around the world share this desire for freedom.

“I new this place was here, but never had been inside.” “With all the warmth - the wood and music - I felt relaxed and I met people that I would not have otherwise.”

2012 Oct&Nov

49

er Theat s * o n Shira

場 劇 乃 志ら

te rny Rou o o. 5 h T a ng Show N o l A e p Esca

o

hiran awa S Tatek I’ m under pressure to finish writing two books

experience writing something that isn’ t a fanzine

scheduled to be published within the year. By

and I’ m doing two at the same time. Obviously

“under , pressure”I mean so much pressure it hurts

it wasn’ t going to be easy, but I wish I could get

my bones. So much pressure, in fact, that when I

right up close to myself at the time I casually

decided to refresh myself with a bit of a change by

accepted the job, saying“I’ ll manage someh , and

putting together some fanzines to distribute at the

whisper in my ear“Oh no you won’ t.”Then again, I’

Comic Market, I was able to complete two right

m not the kind to listen to other people.

away.

I’ ve no doubt that now is the time for me to write

That’ s how much pressure I’ m under right now.

about what I’ ve discovered this year about what

One book is set for publication in September,

it feels like to really want to be a rakugoka. I want to cling to my computer and savor the miracle

stable senior, Dansho, and the other with rakugo

of being able to put out two books just before

teacher Shiraku. Interviewing these two Tatekawa

promotion even more.

thoroughbreds was my own idea, but it was such a

I can’ t help going on about the books. But there are

daring one that I really didn’ t think I’ d be able to

also things I have to do to make real progress as

pull it off last year.

a rakugoka in the world of rakugo. First, I have to

You might think it’ d be a piece of cake to

make sure that the seats are filled at my one-man

interview them since we’ re all from the same

shows and stable shows. I also need to get together

stable, but it’ s not as simple as just ringing them

with several young people outside of the Shiraku

up to say“Are you home? Why not come on over?”

stable who I realized are inspirations to me. And of

If the interview had left them with the impression

course I’ m interacting with those senior to me. I’ m

that“This guy’ s not everything I expected”or“Is

also currently taking steps to actively increase

that all…?”, I’ d have been in deep trouble.

my contact with people other than rakugoka. Last

On the day of the interviews I did some deep soul-

month it was Morning Musume again; in total I’ ve

searching. I summed up my impressions for the

faced off with eight members of this group

book by saying“I did my job as a rakugoka in the

from the 9th and 10th intakes. Then there is

Tatekawa and felt satisfied at having done my work

the to and froing, not to mention the content, of

like a man. To tell the truth this was a step up to

business negotiations with other parties and host

the starting line for me. It was a big thing, because

broadcasters: these are more factors stimulating

until then I’ d felt as if I’ d been running hard in

my grey cells. Writing this all down is getting me

a race I couldn’ t win, but hadn’ t been able to get

worked up... I can get really excited about the act of

away from my fear of standing at that starting line.

standing up and talking in front of people. Maybe

The other book will be published in November, and

I am suited to being a rakugoka? I haven’ t

is completely new material. Writing it was a truly

experienced any other profession, but if this is a

painful process; I was forever groping for the right

vocation then I’m lucky. Compare that to the pain

words and wondering if I’ d hit the right tone. But

of writing… If I go on like this, why, I might even

第五席

追われて逃げ込む茨の道

and contains a couple of interviews. One with my

it was only this year that I really thought about it

try being a rakugoka for a bit of a change.

and realized:“This is what rakugo is like!”It took fifteen years for that to sink in. This is my first ● Shirano Tatekawa Second-generation apprentice of Danshi Tatekawa. Joined the Tatekawa Shiraku rakugo stable in 1998 and advanced to futatsume status in July 2003. Is determined to win promotion to star performer this spring! Don’t miss his Shirano Daisakusen solo shows, held regularly every month. Also a subculture aficionado with a regular radio program that allows him to expound exhaustively on the subject. http://ameblo.jp/st-blog/

2012 Oct&Nov 2012July

51

The next issue will be released on Sunday November 25, 2012.