JungleDrums issue 76 December / January 2010

Page 1

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we find out what a new generation of portuguese are up to in london A SURVIVAL GUIDE TO SALVADOR’S CARNIVAL CORRIDORS

BRASILIAN ‘FLAVOUR’ SPICES UP BRITISH CHICK-FLICK NOVELS

AN EXCLUSIVE CHAT WITH BRASIL’S ANSWER TO BILLY ELLIOT







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MEXICAN-STYLE For the 2010 La Linea Festival, due to take place from 21st April - 1st May, including highlights such as a Mariachi band to be joined onstage by stars like Jarvis Cocker! You heard it here first...

CAETANO'S BACK IN THE HOOD

THE YEAR BY BUYING TICKETS for the 2010 FIFA World Cup in South Africa, which already has the mouth-watering showdown of Brasil and Portugal in the group stages. Find out more at Âż HC EQO

and playing a one-off gig at the Barbican on 3rd July. Hopefully he'll stick to mere music this time, and refrain from throwing cheap insults at President Lula!

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FOR A NOBLE LINE-UP THE MANY FACES and outfits of Brasilian singer Ney Matogrosso, who'll be bringing his most diverse repertoire, ranging from psychadellic rock to traditional ballads, to London as part of Brazil Week 2010, in October.

of Brasilian legends that will be gracing the stage at the Royal Festival Hall on the 17th & 18th of July as part of Festival Brasil. As well as old Diva Maria Bethânia, there's Tropicålia super-group Tom ZÊ and Os Mutantes.



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COVER FEATURE

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The new generation of Portuguese artists claiming London as their homeground

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SPICES

4THINKING MINDS

DESTINATION

All things cool and cultural, from Portuguese musicians and mime acts, to steamy romances set in Brasil.

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INTERVIEW Irlan Santos da Silva talks to Jungle about how dancing took him far away from the favelas

(M)other Tongues from the Arvon Foundation helps migrant teens settle into their new home town

Got plans for Carnival? Bahia’s capital Salvador is, without a doubt, the hottest place to be in February

AGENDA

JUNGLE GUIDE

INBOX

ARNALDO ANTUNES

The bible to what’s going on in town

For your every eating and drinking need

Your rants and raves

In-house conjectures and speculations

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editorial vox Proud of listening to its readership, Jungle asked everybody who took part in the competitions on our website the below question. See how the votes went!

What comes to mind when you think about the connection between Brasil and Portugal?

a mad, glad end to 2009 Going to print at Jungle is always hectic, but this month takes the biscuit. As I sit here writing this, someone's brandishing a laptop like a trophy and playing a video of Flamengo's anthem. One journalist is reviewing the contents page, another's sending the archives to the printers and listening to Lulina's new album on iTunes, and another is giving an interview to a radio station in Brasil. All this excitement in the early hours of the morning says everything about how this year has been: completely mad! But mad in a great way. If 2009 promises to be calmer because of the recession, that doesn't mean we have to keep quiet. We will strive to make sure you get a piece of everything we believe in: a contemporary, varied and fascinating Brasil. To top off seven brilliant years of Jungle, we bring to you Portuguese Connection, our most ambitious travel project, which resulted in a 20-page guide and website, full of videos, tips, and a competition offering two return tickets to Brasil, at portugueseconnection.co.uk. Guess what Jungle promises for 2010? You've probably got the picture by now... More madness. In a good way. Happy 2010

Fechamento na Jungle é sempre movimentado, mas este bateu todos os recordes. Enquanto escrevo, alguém segura um lap-top no alto, como se fosse um troféu, que toca no YouTube o hino do Flamengo. Um jornalista revisa o índice, passa arquivos para a gráfica e escuta o álbum da Lulina no iTunes. Outro, dá entrevista ao vivo para uma rádio no Brasil. Essa agitação tarde da noite traduz bem como foi nosso ano: uma loucura! Mas uma loucura super-positiva. Se 2009 prometia ser calmo por causa da crise, não deixamos quieto. Nos reviramos e lutamos para fazer chegar até você o que acreditamos: um Brasil contemporâneo, multifacetado e fascinante. Para completar o que foi o melhor dos sete anos da Jungle, apresentamos o Portuguese Connection, nosso projeto mais ambicioso, que rendeu um guia de 20 páginas encartado aqui, e um site (portugueseconnection.co.uk) com videos, dicas e uma promoção sorteando duas passagens ao Brasil. A promessa da Jungle para 2010? Imagino que a essa altura você já tenha entendido... Mais loucura. E da boa. Feliz 2010

Juliano Zappia editor-in-chief

MUSIC HISTORY

7.5% 7.5%

25%

9%

LANGUAGE

CULTURE

11% FOOD

12%

28%

others

Portuguese Exploitation/ Colonisation

Beautiful language, beautiful people and great food! Georgette Pallard

There are two very characteristic things we share. One is the ability to find your way around all sorts of obstacles, the famous (or infamous, some may say!) "jeitinho". The other is the word "saudade" and the role it plays in both cultures. Impossible to translate! Isabella Wanderley

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join us! ADVERTISE!

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have your say!

It’s great to know when there are JD articles you really liked, but we love to hear about topics and ideas you think we should look into, so by all means drop us your thoughts at: editor@jungledrums.org For this issue's rants, please turn to page 65.

Heathrow Underground where can i find my jd?

JungleDrums is at it again, making history just as we did with our JD tube displays in 2008, by becoming the only Brasilian magazine to be distributed in Heathrow airport. For the other 200+ locations visit jungledrumsonline.com

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Brasil? JUNGLEDRUMS' PARTY Win tickets to our End of Year party with DJ João Brasil and Molotov Jukebox at Passing Clouds on 17th Dec. Be quick!

LEE SCRATCH PERRY @ JAZZ CAFE

COELHO: A WARRIOR'S LIFE

BURAKA SOM SISTEMA CDs

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“Isobel has never forgotten the night Brasilian millionaire Alejandro Cabral took her virginity. The image of Alejandro’s dark, sexy body has left a lifelong impression on her – as did his seed.â€? Meet Alejandro, star of The Brazilian Millionaire’s Love-Child. Never mind that Alejandro isn’t even a Brasilian name, and that his ‘Portuguese’ is positively toe curling - this isn’t about reality! It’s a classic from Mills & Boon, who have been publishing cheap romances for over a century. There is something instantly recognisable about an M&B; the couple embracing passionately on the cover, the clichĂŠ-ridden blurb and the wonderfully predictable story. Indeed, anyone can be an M&B writer, but you have to follow strict criteria. M&B guidelines state: “When the hero strides into the story he’s a powerful, ruthless man who knows exactly what- and who- he wants and isn’t used to taking no for an answer! Yet he has depth and integrity and he will do anything to make the heroine his. Though she may be shy and vulnerable, she’s determined to challenge his arrogant pursuit.â€? Of course, M&B are the bane of every good feminist and one writer, Violet Winspear, once caused a scandal suggesting her male characters "must frighten and fascinate. They must be the sort of men who are capable of rape." And yet, M&B are read by millions of British women, and publish over 700 titles a year. The tall, dark heroes are often Mediterranean, yet there have been a number of titles featuring quasi-scandalous Brasilian characters, including: Brazilian Boss, Virgin Housekeeper; The Brazilian’s Blackmailed Bride; and now this latest offering. Intellectually challenging they might not be, but at ÂŁ3-odd a copy and only 188 pages long, there are worse ways to sit around waiting for prince charming. ,&

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As we were preparing this special Portugal edition, we decided to look at the bands and artists making waves in Portugal, and bring to you our selection of who to watch out for in 2010. Blending old Portuguese traditions like fado and folk with rhythms and sounds from all over the world, from reggae to funk to kuduro, there's something to excite everyone's eardrums. Mariza, top selling fado diva will be coming to the capital next year, as well as kooky folk band Deolinda. Kuduro-crazed Buraka Som Sistema will have you dancing until you drop, and seven- piece Afro-reggae sensation Terrakota are currently working on a new album, set to conquer the world stage in 2010. ,& D[ .K\ 5JCTOC

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C><=I K>H>DCH THE ENIGMATIC WORK OF ARTIST FLÁVIA SOLLNER The young Flávia Sollner was born in northern Germany, spent her teenage years in Belém, lived in London for several years and now, aged just 26, is resident in Norway, from where she is winning the world over with her peculiar and beautiful work. The photographer and biology student has a series of Polaroid photographs entitled The Night on show in January in London. “I try to look for something which I find really impressive, and then retouch them – adding darkness, or pain, a kind of fear and horror. But what I really hope is to create something beautiful enough to make people look. Whilst at the same time keeping enough hidden in darkness, to cause a feeling of unease,” she explains. Having exhibited in London on many previous occasions, Flávia has also taken part in other exhibitions throughout Europe, USA, Canada and Australia, but her work has not yet reached Brasil. “I think the right opportunity hasn’t come along yet, but it’s definitely something I want to do,” says Flávia. ,& D[ )NCWEG .WECU

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It can’t be easy being a young female singer-songwriter in Brasil. No matter how original you are, there’s an endless stream of comparisons to be made. Is this the new Mallu MagalhĂŁes? Is she a Rita Lee for the 21st century? Unfortunately, such comparisons are hard to avoid because, at her playful, lyrical best, Lulina really does recall the likes of Gal Costa and, yes Rita Lee. On provocative tracks like Meu Principe and Bosta Nova, gentle melodies disguise sharp, artful song writing. A native of the northeast, Lulina is currently a citizen of SĂŁo Paulo, which might explain why Cristalina seems a little hard to navigate at first. ‘Love doesn’t come with a GPS’, she explains on her site, but you might feel you need one here. Once you get your bearings, though, the album – like the city - offers a host of hidden delights for anyone brave enough to explore it. ,& D[ 6QO %TQQMUVQP

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JUNGLE CATCHES UP WITH THE NEW GENERATION OF YOUNG, TALENTED PORTUGUESE EXPATS IN TOWN

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Throughout the 20th century, many different factors have attracted Portuguese immigrants to the UK; some came looking for work; others, to escape the fascist dictatorship of António Salazar. But the times have changed, and now London is home to a new generation of Portuguese, who have come neither for money nor refuge, but to work in the arts in one of the most culturally vibrant cities in the world. Of those we interviewed, one came without speaking a word of English and started life in London stacking shelves; one came for love; one has almost completely forgotten how to speak Portuguese; and most claim no connection to London’s older Portuguese community. This month, Jungle looks at what brought a new generation of Portuguese to London, why they’re still here, and how they keep their ‘saudades’ or homesickness - practically a national trait - at bay.

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Nuno Silva - Dancer, Choreographer and Fado Singer Starring in the dance piece God’s Garden in February - see danceast.co.uk I came to London to study Performing Arts at the London Studio Centre. After three years, I joined the Henri Oguike Dance Company. It was fantastic, we toured all over the world. I love travelling and seeing new places. In 2007, after seven years at the company, I decided to leave so I could have more time to do other things. I’m a fado singer and I actually started singing here, in London. When I first came to England, I was like a typical immigrant; I came with a Benfica scarf, a double album of Amália Rodrigues [a famous fado singer], and a lot of ‘saudades’! I used to get home after class and go to sleep with my walkman, listening to Amália. Now I spend a lot of time researching fado and finding out about new things. There’s never been any fado singers who dance too - now there is: me! I choose the fados that I like to hear and enjoy singing. I like to sing the happy, fast ones but also the sad ones, they have their own beauty. I’ve lived all over London but I’ve ended up in Brixton, where the Portuguese community is! I go to café Sintra a lot, whenever Benfica play. At first, all the men found it strange that I don’t drink coffee or beer, but when they found out that I’m a singer and dancer, they were alright with it. I love London – I love the life I have here. The galleries, the parks and the culture on offer, there’s everything here, as well as the work opportunities. I’ve created my niche here. For what I want to do, it has to be London – for now. I feel good here - and I feel good in Lisbon, with the food, and at the fado houses. In Portugal the way of life is enviable. But here I have theatres, shows, studios... it’s two completely different ways of living.

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I CAME TO ENGLAND WITH A BENFICA SCARF, A DOUBLE ALBUM OF AMÁLIA RODRIGUES AND A LOT OF ‘SAUDADES’!

400 YEARS OF PORTUGUESE LONDON

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POLITICAL EXILES

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‘LITTLE PORTUGAL’ TODAY

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Generation P

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Ana Vicente - Artist & Teacher

Daniel Cerejo - Musician

anavicente.co.uk

peyoti.com

I came to London from Portugal 10 years ago because my boyfriend was here. I’m a visual artist, teacher and bookbinder. I work a lot with photographs, old notebooks and painting and drawing. At the moment I have a show at the Lisbon National Library. I’ve often exhibted in the UK, at the ICA and Conway Hall, for example, and in New York and Europe. I like the idea of working without borders. You might live here, but you can work anywhere – in Lisbon, for example. Today, in Europe and internationally, it’s much easier to cross borders, to work with galleries and collaborate with artists from other parts of the world; it doesn’t matter where you live.

I left my home in Alentejo when I was 15 and moved to the city of Évora, to study Music. At the time, you could only study classical music in Portugal. Then a jazz

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WHEN I ARRIVED I DIDN’T SPEAK ENGLISH. I STARTED OFF STACKING SHELVES AND BUSKING IN TUBE STATIONS. course opened up in Porto and I thought if I’m going to move cities and live somewhere new, I might as well move to London. On 6th September, 2004, my brother and I loaded up our little car with everything we owned, and drove to England. I remember taking the ferry from Calais to Dover, those are memories I’ll have for the rest of my life.

When I arrived, I basically didn’t speak any English. I wasn’t at all prepared, and my brother and I started by stacking shelves in Safeways, We played in a Portuguese restaurant, and busked in tube stations. Eventually, I worked with a group called Yorubeat – a 12-piece band - as the musical director and I wrote arrangements for the brass section. We played at the Royal Festival Hall and Jazz Café and other big venues. It was great, but not really what I wanted to do. One day I went to a party and met a Spanish musician called Nordin. We started working together. Through Nordin, I met Pietro from Peyoti for President, and he invited me to rehearse. The whole band loved the fusion and what I brought to the group. After a while, I stopped being ‘the new guy’! When I came to London my plan was to stay forever. But recently I’ve started to realise that this isn’t a city that you should stay in for a very long time. I think it’s up to us, this new generation – the people who’ve left Portugal – to return, and bring their experiences with them. That’s where you’ll find my nostalgia, in the idea of returning to Portugal to play there after so many years away. One of the thing’s I’d like to do is organise an event which brings together all of those elements of my country that don’t get seen here. Although, I’m not really about flying flags; we’re all citizens of the world. Sometimes I feel bad that our country isn’t



Generation P

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Pastel de Nata

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I’m only 22. I think I’ll stay in London for the next few years but I’d like to go to other places. I work in Portugal a lot, doing social projects and workshops there. London is great because you meet people from all over the world. I have a lot of Portuguese friends here, but that’s what London is all about; the small communities with people from all over the world. London is a city which isn’t too neat and tidy; it’s not like other cities like Miami, where everything is in straight lines. London is what it is and it doesn’t have a problem with that.

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Old-skool atmosphere

Coffee

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Vhils - Street Artist

techniques. I realised that there was a concept there, that no one paid attention to what was underneath, on those walls. It’s almost like archaeology; you’re working with layers of time in the city. There are always faces in my work; they’re there to humanise the places I work in, to give a face to the city. The idea is for them to be the faces of normal people who live in the city like everyone else. At the moment I’m working on two walls in East London and Camden as part of the Grifters project with Lazirdes [the gallery that represent Banksy]. Sometimes I have a few issues because I make quite a lot of noise when I’m working. But normally I just put on a hi-vis vest and people assume I’m some kind of labourer.

alexandrefarto.com I came to London three years ago, to study Fine Art at Central Saint Martin’s, and finished the course in August. I’ve been doing graffiti with friends, in Lisbon - just painting walls – without any real plans. But then, when everyone else stopped doing it, I realised people really liked what I was doing, so I started concentrating on art. In Lisbon there’s a lot of fly posting. People stick loads of posters one on top of the other and no one cleans the walls all year long. So, as a way of not getting caught, I’d paint the posters white and then play with the layers of colour. Gradually I started using other materials, and developing different

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Generation P Rui Faria - Fashion editor

Miguel Santos - Musical Curator

Alice da Cunha - Actress

volt-mag.com

redorange.org.uk

Facebook / Alice da Cunha

When I was 15, I went to New York on my own to visit a relative and then I decided to stay and finish high school. I deliberately didn’t speak Portuguese for a long time, so I could learn English. I think that’s the only regret I have in my life; losing my Portuguese. One day I went to the cinema and I saw Eyes of Laura Mars. There was a part where there were all these amazing photographs – and I thought, ‘Oh my God, this is so beautiful; this is what I want to do.’ That’s how I became a photographer – by accident. When I pick up a fashion magazine, I really don’t want to know what a celebrity had for dinner: I want the important bit, which is about fashion. So I decided to do something devoid of all the rubbish, just incorporating beautiful images and I started Volt magazine. Once in a while I start craving bacalhau [cod], and it’s like, ‘OK, it’s time to go to Stockwell!’ I love Portugal, I love the food, I love the people – but I don’t think I could live there. It would drive me nuts! It’s all about ‘tomorrow’. There’s a store called Sintra I go to get pastéis de bacalhau, olive oil and a newspaper. London is the best place, for me, considering what I’m doing. I definitely feel more European than American.

I came to London 13 years ago to study for an MA in Arts Management. I used to organise the London Portuguese Music Festival, Atlantic Waves, and now I organise the London International Festival of Exploratory Music (LIFEM). I also have my own company, Red Orange and I do two radio shows each week on Resonance FM, where I play world and ambient music. I go to Portugal a lot because I work with a lot of Portuguese artists. I think Portugal has a very rich offering in terms of music and the arts in general. I don’t really go to Portuguese places in London much I consider myself more part of an international community. Of course, there are things I don’t like about London - like the weather! But it has a lot of good things; as they say, if you’re tired of living in London, you’re tired of life!

I came here in 2001 to study. It was a combination of wanting to see the world, wanting to study drama. I chose London because of its tradition of theatre. I love the diversity of London, the fact that you can have friends of different nationalities - it’s fascinating. There’s no one single way of thinking, or one way of seeing things. I think that’s what London’s all about. Taking part in the play This Much Is True [about the Jean Charles de Menezes case] was really important for me. I was born in Brasil, and consider myself Brasilian and Portuguese, and I think it was important to have a Brasilian voice in the play. It was a very special experience. Living away from home is hard for most people, but I have a real sense of adventure and I do still feel connected to Portugal. Of course, I’ve thought about giving up and going home before! In retrospect, things have gone really well for me, but it’s difficult when you’re back working as a waitress again and thinking ‘What am I going to do?!” I think I’d like to live in both countries. I have a real sense of adventure, I love to travel. I’d love to work on a piece which had Portugal as its theme – that’s one of my dreams.

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Generation P Nuno Santos - Dance photographer nunosantos.co.uk I came to London four and a half years ago; with my work at an advertising agency – I’m involved in the commercial side of things at the agency in Europe. I started photography a long time ago, when I was around 16. I managed to scrape the money together to buy a second-hand Nikon F601, and from there it became a real passion. I did lots of courses, and had some work published, but when I started my career in Lisbon I stopped taking photographs, and I didn’t take it up again until I came to London. When I moved here, I thought – new city, new life, and I decided to dedicate more time to it again. Since then it has become a huge part of my personal and professional life. I got into dance at around the same time as photography, when I was a teenager. I took dance at school and I had a lot of friends who were dancers. Even though I didn’t continue with it physically, it has always fascinated me. It’s hard to explain – there’s something extraordinary about translating an idea or a message into a movement. It’s even more of a universal language than music. Photographing dance is all about capturing that movement and isolating it. My local pub is Kick Bar in Exmouth market [owned by Portuguese] and from time to time I go to Sintra, in Brixton, to watch the football and have some Portuguese food. But what I really miss is the sea. It hits me as soon as I arrive in Lisbon – the smell of salt in the air. ,&

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Irlan Santos da Silva

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interview

JUNGLE MEETS BRASILIAN PRODIGY IRLAN SANTOS DA SILVA, THE PROTAGONIST OF ONLY WHEN I DANCE, TO FIND OUT HOW IT ALL BEGAN, AND THE THINGS THE DOCUMENTARY DOESN’T SHOW Irlan Santos da Silva was nine years old when his cousin invited him to take part in an arts education project sponsored by the Rio de Janeiro council. Both boys took drawing, but each day they could hear the music from the dance classes down the corridor. So when his cousin persuaded him to do a jazz dance class, what could have been a mere distraction for Irlan, proved to be the beginning of an international career. As a result of the potential spotted by his teachers, and his own dedication, Irlan won a scholarship to the renowned Rio Centre of Dance school. Thanks to the documentary Only When I Dance, the rest of the world can now join Irlan on part of the journey that took him from the Complexo do Alemão favela to win prestigious international prizes and on to earn a place as a dancer on the American Ballet Theatre in New York. Directed by documentary-maker Beadie Finzi and produced by Giorgia Sávio, Nikki Parrot and Christina Daniels, the film was made over a year in the life of Irlan, and Isabela Coracy, both ballet dancers at the Rio Centre of Dance school. The producers’ idea was to make a film telling the story of a talented Brasilian artist and when they heard about Irlan they decided to visit the Centre of Dance and talk to the principal, Marisa Estrella. She liked the idea, discussed it with Irlan and also suggested Isabela for the film. The rest is history in the making.

How was it, being filmed? At the beginning it was weird having cameras pointing at me all the time – I wasn’t used to waking up with a camera pointing at my face, following me to the bathroom or watching me eat; it was really strange. But after a while, I got used to it and when it was over I kind of missed it. The whole process lasted about a year. They always stayed in touch with me and the school to find out what was happening in my life, what I was doing and the competitions I was entering. Then they’d come to Rio every three months or so for a few days of filming. Were you and Isabela close before the film? Are you still in touch? We’ve always been part of the same group and gone to the same places, so we’re really good friends and it was easy doing the documentary with her. I spoke to her last week – she passed at the São Paulo Dance Company. She’s already got somewhere to live as well, so she’s really happy, and very proud - it’s great news. I hope I can watch the company next time I go to São Paulo – I really want to see her dancing. What about your cousin, does he keep up with his dancing? He doesn’t dance professionally. When we both won scholarships to the Rio Centre of Dance he decided not to go – he had almost finished school and had a job. But sometimes he goes to classes as a hobby.

Tell us about your beginning at the Rio Centre of Dance. I started doing tap there in 2001. I didn’t start ballet until 2002, I didn’t even know what ballet was, I’d never seen a ballet in my life. Living in Complexo do Alemão I didn’t have much of a chance to see the arts. Tell us about how you won the Prix de Lausanne. I was already being filmed by the documentary producers by then, and it’s shown on the film. Fortunately, it went really well at Lausanne, it was one of the best competitions I’ve ever done. The structure of the programme is excellent there; they really care about the dancers. It lasted a week, and I was one of the winners at the end, that’s how I got the scholarship to the American Ballet Theatre. When did you start at the American Ballet Theatre (ABT II)? What’s your life like in New York? I’m starting my second year now. I arrived in New York in September, 2008. Living there is great, but it’s expensive. When I first got there I was on a scholarship from the Lausanne Prize, so they were the ones who paid me, but now I’m a full member of the company like the others, and I have a proper contract. I’m in the ABT II, the youth company. We do lots of touring, which I really like. I’ve been dancing not just ballet but also jazz and contemporary, and I enjoy those too –

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Irlan Santos da Silva I’m even the principal dancer in one of the choreographies. In December I’m going to dance the Nutcracker on a tour going around the US and to Amsterdam. The selection process for the main company will take place in January, and I really hope I get chosen. I want to grow in the company, and get to be the leading male dancer. My dream is to be recognised worldwide as a great ballet dancer. In the documentary we see your father talking about his reaction when he found out you wanted to become a dancer. How did that happen in reality? Actually it was fine. When I started

dancing on the project, as a hobby, he never had anything bad to say about it. When I decided to follow dance as a career, my mother spoke to him. Then he came to speak to me, and asked me if that was what I really wanted. But he didn’t really know what ballet was either, so he couldn’t really say much. To begin with, he would ask, “Do men dance ballet?” But he got used to it and when he saw me dancing for the first time he was really impressed. Now, he loves it and always wants to know more about what I’m doing. These days there are more and more cultural projects - and people - getting

recognised in the favelas. When I started, there weren’t those sorts of opportunities. I think it’s really important for the people in the favelas to learn and know about the world beyond their communities. Whether they mean to or not, people in the favelas lead a closed existence, without much access to the world outside those walls. Have you been back to the Rio Centre of Dance since you left for New York? Who is the new Irlan back home? (Laughs) The last time I went to Brasil, I went back to the Centre of Dance and now there are loads of boys. When I was there, it was just me, my friend Lamin and his

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interview

brother. Now there are ten or so and some of them have a lot of potential, plus they’re still young so they have time to develop. I tell them to do lots of classes, to practice all the time and to determine what their goals are. That’s how you get ahead; never giving up on your dreams and always chasing them. Have you thought about going back to Brasil to continue your career there? I’ll only go back to Brasil on holiday. In Brasil there are big contemporary companies, like Deborah Colker, Quasar and O Corpo, but I don’t want just contemporary dance for myself. Here in Europe and in the

USA, there is a market for classical dance. It’s only outside of Brasil that there are real opportunities to dance different styles and with various choreographers, so I have to pursue my career abroad. What you think is missing from the world of dance in Brasil? Support. Without that, people with plans and projects for new companies cannot move forward. No one sets up a company on their own, you need sponsorship for example. And Brasil is full of talent. If you put all of the Brasilians dancing abroad together in one company, it would be one of the best dance companies in the world.

What are your plans for the future? Do you ever imagine returning to Brasil? In the future, I hope to pass my experiences on to other young people from poor backgrounds. Of course, first I want to dance, but I know that one day I also want to teach and help my country. I never had a chance to follow a career in Brasil, but I’d like to contribute so that others can. Who knows, one day I might open a dance school or even my own company. ,& DCAN L=:C > 96C8: 7VgW^XVc VcY HZaZXiZY 8^cZbVh i]^h bdci] Dc 8]VccZa) dc 8]g^hibVh 9Vn! &#'*eb DCANL=:C>96C8:#8DB

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WORKSHOPS FOR IMMIGRANT TEENS AIM TO PREVENT LOSS OF TOUCH WITH MOTHER CULTURES Leaving your native country is never easy; as well as homesickness, there’s the long process of adapting to a new culture and customs, especially when it involves a new language to contend with. But imagine having to go through all that during your teenage years, when you’re still trying to figure out who you are. Having to abandon some of your customs and adopt others which might seem totally alien can make an already turbulent phase a whole lot harder. In their efforts to integrate into a new community, a lot of young people give up their native language and even reject their own culture, which makes it very likely that they will lose the ties with the country of their birth. Taking all of this into account, the Arvon Foundation - which has been providing writing courses for forty years - decided to develop the (M)Other Tongues project, holding workshops for teenagers from non English-speaking communities in London. The first course, which took place at the

beginning of December, was aimed at youngsters from London’s Portuguese and Brasilian communities - most of whom arrived two to four years ago. Sixteen teenagers from Stockwell between the ages of 12 and 16 spent five days with a pair of tutors in a Yorkshire house once owned by poet Ted Hughes, exploring new ways of dealing with their multicultural history. According to Emma Johnson, development manager at Arvon, “When we spoke to people from the Portuguese community, we saw that many of them chose only to speak English when they came here. We want to help them reconnect with their original culture and integrate it into their daily lives.” The project, which was financed by the Gulbenkian Foundation, was completely free for the youngsters, and included two bilingual tutors, accommodation and the help of two teachers to supervise. The focus of the exercises was to recall their arrival in England, and put it down on

THE ARVON FOUNDATION

paper through essays, poems and short stories, creating an anthology of their experiences and sharing them with other teenagers in the same situation. They were encouraged to use their creativity and write in whichever language they preferred. One of the tutors, Portuguese journalist Susana Moreira, underlines the importance of the work that’s being done by Arvon with the project. “These students can gain a lot from this experience: as well as increasing their confidence during this stage of their lives, they can also learn that this mixed, cultural baggage that they carry has the potential to be useful in the future, or even in their careers, for example in translation. The Arvon Foundation intends to create a collected volume of the works produced, which will be given to the participants and used as reference for future projects which they hope to hold with other communities, giving them the chance to connect with their native languages and English. ,&

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BORN AND BRED IN BRASIL, SALVADOR'S CARNIVAL - THE BIGGEST STREET PARTY IN THE WORLD IS A MASSIVE EXTRAVAGANZA OF BAHIAN RHYTHMS, COLOURS, HEAT AND NON-STOP PARTYING Welcome to a city which pulsates with energy: Salvador is a veritable Brasilian melting pot, a tropical Northeastern metropolis where more than 80% of the population have African descendency. Located on All Saints' Bay, in the state of Bahia, it’s one of those beautiful spots where you can watch the sun rise over the sea at dawn and then set behind the city at dusk, sending the whole place into an orange blaze. Heaving with colour, rhythm, heat and natural beauty, Salvador is a city which can leave any visitor breathless. And it is here, in this wonderful city, that the largest street party in the world takes place, as stated in the Guinness Book of Records. According to Salvador's local council, more than two million revellers,

including Bahians, Brasilians and tourists from all over the world, take to the streets during six days of partying. You can pay to join the blocos (groups of musicians leading a processions down the street), the trios elétricos (lorries equipped with sound systems, musicians and dancers), or the camarotes (stands from where you can watch carnival go by), but if you really want to get into the swing of it – and avoid spending a small fortune on tickets and the mandatory fancy dress – you can just get down with the crowds in what is known as the “popcorn”. Whichever way you decide to spend your carnival in Salvador, one thing’s for sure: you won’t ever forget those long days of partying, rhythms, happiness and excess. The Ash-Thursday hangover, complete with

aching legs from long nights dancing, and ringing ear drums, is part and parcel of the experience – even for those who stick to mineral water. Complete and utter exhaustion is the best way of explaining post-carnival Salvador syndrome. But the memories and feeling of satisfaction that accompany it, make it all worthwhile.

Something for all tastes | Axé music, a typically Bahian sound which mixes reggae, samba, frevo and maracatu is the star of carnival in Salvador, but it’s not the only thing you’ll hear. Traditional afoxé, percussion, forró, rock bands and electronic music are all options if you’re not really up for axé successes like Chiclete com Banana, Banda Eva, Asa de Águia, Ivete

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8G>69D : BD9>;>869D E:AD EDKD 7G6H>A:>GD! D 86GC6K6A 9: H6AK69DG w JB6 :MIG6K6<ÙC8>6 9: G>IBDH : 8DG:H 76>6CDH/ 6 B6>DG ;:HI6 9: GJ6 9D BJC9D CÀD E6G6 C:B 9: B69GJ<696 Bem vindos a uma cidade que transpira alegria: Salvador é o resultado da diversidade brasileira, onde mais de 80% da população são de descendência africana. Apesar disso, a cidade recebe diversas influências: a arte e a religiosidade africana, a corporeidade dos povos nativos e o barroco europeu. Assim é Salvador, localizada na Baía de Todos os Santos, no Estado da Bahia, lugar onde é possível apreciar no mesmo oceano o amanhecer de um lado da cidade e o primoroso e alaranjado pôr-do-sol do outro. São cores, ritmos e calores que se unem a uma paisagem capaz de tirar o fôlego de qualquer visitante. Precisamente nesta cidade alto-astral por natureza ocorre a maior festa de participação popular do mundo, segundo registro no Guiness Book, o livro dos recordes. De acordo com a Prefeitura Municipal de Salvador, calcula-se que mais de dois milhões de foliões, entre baianos e turistas de vários lugares do planeta, vão às ruas durante os seis dias de festa do Carnaval de Salvador. São os blocos, trios elétricos e camarotes que mais chamam a atenção dos turistas, especialmente dos marinheiros de primeira

viagem, mas quem quer conhecer a festa sem desembolsar muito dinheiro pode ainda pular no meio do povo, na conhecida “pipoca”, por fora dos cordões que limitam os blocos. De um jeito ou de outro, aqueles que passam um Carnaval em Salvador não esquecem. São dias intensos e longas noites de festa, ritmo, alegria e excessos. A ressaca na quarta-feira de cinzas vem junto com o pacote – mesmo aqueles que só bebem água mineral o tempo todo não se livram da ressaca física: corpo cansado, pernas doloridas de tanto dançar e ouvido zunindo por conta do acúmulo de som alto por vários dias. Completa exaustão é a melhor forma de descrever o sentimento pós-carnaval soteropolitano. Mas outro sentimento, o de alma lavada, faz tudo valer a pena.

Para todos os gostos |

O axé, estilo musical tipicamente baiano que mistura reggae, samba, frevo pernambucano e maracatu, é a maior estrela do carnaval, porém não a única. Os tradicionais afoxés, as bandas de percussão, forró e ultimamente até mesmo rock e música eletrônica são opções para quem não quer ouvir os sucessos 9:O:B7GD $ ?6C:>GD '%&% ,WPING&TWOU ).


carnival in salvador Sangalo and Claudia Leite. Today there are three carnival circuits in Salvador. The oldest is the Osmar (in Campo Grande) which begins at 10am on the Sunday, and runs 6km through the city centre. Then there’s the Dodô, which starts at the Barra lighthouse and goes up to Ondina, following 4km of beach which is where the crowds are at their wildest. Unlike Osmar, Dodô begins at 4pm, and sunrise is the peak of the party, when the last trios to come down the avenue coincide with the first rays of sun on the beach. One alternative to the main avenues – and a good choice for the kids – is the Batatinha, a haven for the Afro and Afoxé blocos who bring to life the old-fashioned carnival experience. It’s concentrated in the Pelourinho, the postcard-perfect heart of Salvador’s historical centre, which has been

restored to its former beauty and declared a World Heritage Site. If you want to find out more about Afro-Brasilian traditions, you can actually participate in the afoxés, whose carnival performances mix religiosity and festivities with the traditions of candomblé (a religion originating in Africa and practiced in Brasil). The biggest afoxé bloco, or group, in Salvador is the all-men's Filhos de Gandhy, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2009. Founded by the stevedores of Salvador’s port, and inspired by the principles of peace preached by Mahatma Gandhi, they are easily identified by their blue and white clothes, turbans and long necklaces, and the plastic vials of cologne they carry, to spray on the crowds - often demanding kisses! The ticket to a trio elétrico is an abadá: t-shirts or patterned cloth for your fancy

dress, sold all year long from Ash-Thursday of the previous year so that people can bag their places early on! Brasilian tourists generally tend to go for the more famous blocos, like Nana Banana (including groups like Timbalada and Chiclete com Banana), Coruja (Ivete Sangalo), and Crocodilo (Daniela Mercury). In contrast, foreign tourists seem to go for more traditional groups like Ilê Aiyé and Filhos de Gandhy. Then there’s the option of seeing the trios and blocos go past, from the comfort of a camarote stand. As well as a privileged view of the avenue, there are lounges with sofas and armchairs, massages and beauty parlours on offer, air conditioning and an open bar (the most expensive tickets will get you food and drink all night). The most popular camarotes are on the Barra-Ondina circuit, and include Salvador 2010,

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do axé que estouram na mídia, de grupos como Chiclete com Banana, Banda Eva, Asa de Águia, Ivete Sangalo e Cláudia Leite. Atualmente, são três os circuitos do carnaval de Salvador. O mais antigo é o Osmar (Campo Grande), que começa no domingo às 10h e percorre um trajeto de 6km de extensão em pleno centro da cidade. O Dodô (Barra-Ondina) tem início no Farol da Barra (ponto turístico da cidade), possui um percurso à beira-mar de 4km de extensão e é o mais badalado. Ao contrário do Osmar, a folia no Dodô começa a partir das 16h e a madrugada é o auge da festa. Os últimos trios que entram na avenida são acompanhados pelas lindas imagens do raiar do sol nas praias. Uma alternativa à farra dos trios elétricos e uma boa opção para a garotada é o Batatinha, reduto dos blocos afros e afoxés que traz um carnaval à moda antiga. A concentração é no Pelourinho, coração do Centro Histórico e cartão postal da cidade, que foi recuperado e declarado Patrimônio Cultural Mundial. Aqueles que querem conhecer um pouco das tradições afrobrasileiras podem ainda desfilar nos afoxés, cujo cortejo durante *% ,WPING&TWOU 9:8:B7:G $ ?6CJ6GN '%&%

o carnaval mistura a folia com a religiosidade e às tradições do candomblé (religião de origem africana muito praticada no Brasil). O maior bloco de afoxé de Salvador é o Filhos de Gandhy, homenageado em 2009 pelos 60 anos de existência e formado exclusivamente por homens. O bloco foi fundado pelos estivadores do porto de Salvador, inspirados nos princípios da paz propagados pelo indiano Mahatma Gandhi. Vestidos com roupas típicas brancas e colares azuis, os Filhos de Gandhy trazem a tradição da religião africana ritmada pelos instrumentos musicais típicos, como agogôs e atabaques, e os cantos na língua Iorubá (idioma de origem africana). Os ingressos para os trios elétricos são os uniformes chamados de abadás e começam a ser vendidos na quarta-feira de cinzas, ou seja, no dia do término das comemorações já é possível garantir uma vaga para o ano seguinte. Os turistas brasileiros geralmente preferem os blocos mais famosos, como Nana Banana (com os grupos Timbalada e Chiclete com Banana), CocoBambu (Asa de Águia), Coruja (Ivete Sangalo), Camaleão (Chiclete com Banana), Cerveja e Cia. (Tomate, Banda Eva e Ivete Sangalo) e Crocodilo (Daniela Mercury). Já os

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www.bravo-travel.com

Os melhores preços do mercado estão aqui.

A PART R RTIR DO DIA A 15 DE NOVEMBRO A BRAVO R RAVO TR TRAVEL E LCC MUDARÃO DE ENDEREÇO. Estamos indo de Dean Street para 16 Wells Street, W1T 3PF. Venha conhecer o nosso novo escritório.

020 7592 9736 020 7592 9741

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Bu ckin gha mP ala ce

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Victoria St

Victoria

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Camarote do Reino, Oceania, Ondina and Monte Pascoal. Entry to the camarotes and blocos varies from R$80 (around ÂŁ30) to R$800 (ÂŁ300) per day, depending on which one, and the day.

How to wind it down | Because it’s a popular destination for tourists, Salvador has a good choice of accommodation for all tastes and budgets, from hostels to luxury hotels. If you’re only going for the week of carnival, you’ll want somewhere comfortable to relax, where there’s a good breakfast on offer. The most important factor to consider is location, with millions of thousands of tourists in the streets and heavy traffic on top of the carnival routes taking up the main roads

through the city. Most visitors tend to go for the Dodô Circuit, and if that’s your case then you should look for somewhere to stay in Barra, Ondina, or Rio Vermelho. You can often find apartments, rooms or even houses to rent in these areas, a good idea if you're in a group. The other thing you shouldn’t miss out on is trying the Bahian cuisine: and top of this list is acarajÊ, a snack made from beans, fried in palm nut oil and filled with a paste called vatapå, and prawns and salad. Beware - when you order yours, the Baiana making it will ask you if you want it hot or cold, but she’s not talking about the temperature, she’s talking Bahian chilli – which are fiery and strong. Just like Salvador. And unforgettable, too. ,&

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT

carnival in salvador

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estrangeiros costumam optar pelos mais tradicionais, como IlĂŞ AiyĂŞ e Filhos de Gandhy. HĂĄ tambĂŠm a possibilidade de ver de perto os trios passarem pela avenida com o conforto e a comodidade dos camarotes. AlĂŠm de uma vista privilegiada da avenida, lounges com sofĂĄs e poltronas, spa com massagens, salĂŁo de beleza, ar condicionado e open bar (os mais caros trabalham com o sistema All Incluse, ou seja, comida e bebida Ă vontade) sĂŁo as vantagens para quem prefere assistir o carnaval baiano nos camarotes. Os mais concorridos ficam no Circuito Barra-Ondina, e incluem Salvador 2010, Camarote do Reino, do Nana, Oceania, Ondina e Monte Pascoal. Nesta ĂŠpoca do ano, os valores para pular nos blocos ou nos camarotes variam de R$ 80 a R$ 800 por dia de folia, dependendo do bloco ou camarote e do dia.

O tĂŁo merecido descanso |

Por ser uma cidade turĂ­stica, Salvador possui uma ampla rede de hospedagem, para todos os gostos e bolsos, desde albergues da juventude atĂŠ hotĂŠis *' ,WPING&TWOU 9:8:B7:G $ ?6CJ6GN '%&%

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de luxo. Quem vai apenas para passar a semana do Carnaval precisa somente de um local confortĂĄvel para descansar e de um bom cafĂŠ da manhĂŁ. O mais importante nesta ĂŠpoca ĂŠ a localização, pois o trânsito de carros pela cidade torna-se mais difĂ­cil devido aos milhares de turistas e Ă s ruas e avenidas que sĂŁo interditadas para os blocos passarem. A maioria dos turistas costuma comprar abadĂĄs para o Circuito DodĂ´, neste caso a sugestĂŁo ĂŠ procurar pousadas e hotĂŠis na Barra, Ondina ou Rio Vermelho. É comum encontrar ainda apartamentos, quartos e atĂŠ casas de moradores para alugar, uma opção interessante e mais barata para quem viaja em uma turma grande. Fica tambĂŠm a dica de provar a iguaria da culinĂĄria baiana: o acarajĂŠ, um bolinho de feijĂŁo-fradinho frito no azeite de dendĂŞ, recheado com uma pasta chamada vatapĂĄ, camarĂŁo seco e vinagrete. Na hora de pedir o acarajĂŠ, a baiana pergunta ao cliente: quente ou frio? NĂŁo se engane, o calor a que ela se refere nĂŁo ĂŠ a temperatura, mas Ă s pimentas baianas - fortes e ardidas. Assim ĂŠ Salvador: quente, forte, ardida. E inesquecĂ­vel. ,&

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carnival in salvador explorer

THE INSIDER

LOCATION

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HOW TO GET THERE

WHEN TO GO

GETTING AROUND

WHERE TO STAY

EAT, DRINK & FUN

MORE INFO

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jungle guide picture by CAPITU

picture by ANA BRASIL

bars & restaurants

58

CANELA A Lusophone culinary heaven, mixing up the food of the Portuguese world

Have yourself a very fishy Christmas

oh, for cod’s sake! our fever for portuguese food continues with a classic dish Here are some things you never knew about cod; it’s the official symbol of Massachussetes; cod are cannibals and eat their own offspring; and there are three different Portuguese cod recipes for each and every day of the year. It’s also hugely popular all over the Portuguese speaking world, especially at Christmas. Bacalhau is cod which is salted and dried in order to preserve it. So first you have to soak it overnight, regularly changing the water, to draw out the salt and soften the flesh. Then you’re off: 1) Boil 500g potatoes, then slice 2) Boil 500g of de-salted cod for 20 minutes with the lid on the pan 3) Drain, remove skin and bones, shred. 4) Cover with milk in a deep pan and leave on a low heat for two hours 5) Chop two onions and one bulb of garlic and fry gently in olive oil 6) Add the potatoes, and the cod 7) Mix gently - do not bring to boil 9) Pour into a dish and cook in the oven for 10 minutes, then garnish with parsley eggs, and black olives. JD by Ana Naomi KEY:

Brasilian

Latin

highlight

Fatos interessantes sobre bacalhau: o peixe é o símbolo do estado americano de Massachusetts; há receitas para as três refeições, todos os dias do ano sem repetir. É popular nos países lusófonos, especialmente no Natal. O termo bacalhau se refere ao peixe já preservado salgado e seco. Então, antes de ser preparado, ele deve ficar de molho por uma noite para tirar do sal e amaciar a carne. Depois, é só partir para a receita: 1) Ferva 500g de batatas e fatie; 2) Ferva 500g de bacalhau por 20 min em panela tampada; 3) Escorra, retire a pele e os ossos e despedace-o; 4) Cubra com leite em panela funda e deixe em fogo baixo por 2h 5) Corte duas cebolas e um dente de alho e frite em azeite; 6) Adicione as batatas e o bacalhau; 7) Misture sem deixar ferver; 8) Ponha sal e pimenta a gosto; 9) Leve ao forno por 10 minutos; depois enfeite com salsa, dois ovos picados e azeitonas pretas. JD

WHAT's YOUR FAVOuRITE latin joint IN LONDON?

Once I went to a friend's house for feijoada (Brasilian bean stew) and they bought all the meat from Boi Gordo it was delicious!

want to try the real deal? Find out how on our site Portugueseconnection.co.uk

tube

up to £10* £10 - £20* £20+* *Price based on a meal with drink per person

Music producer and DJ João Brasil, who plays at our party on December 17th

DEZEMBRO / JANEIRO 2010 JungleDrums 55


bars & restaurants

CENTRAL LONDON SEE A LA CRUZ p.57 Argentinean steak house serving varied grilled meats. Main meal and a drink - £20

42 Northampton Rd, EC1R 0HU Angel

It might only have been one month since it opened its doors, but Coco Bamboo restaurant is already a hit with local punters on its great location around Chalk Farm Road and Camden. With a menu consisting of South American cuisine, the former pub turned into restaurant has a cosy and inviting atmosphere, which carefully avoids the kitsch/tropical clichés. Dropping in during a cold, winter evening, customers are instantly welcomed by the low lighting, and warm interior, and it's easy to work up an appetite. There's one particular ingredient which has been winning over fans at Coco Bamboo: that's the cassava, or yam, known in Brasil as mandioca, which is present in several different dishes; as an accompaniment, for example, to the Angus Ribeye Steak with Cassava cake and Herb butter, Cassava Chips as a side, or as a dessert, in the form of cassava cake or coconut Tart. There is also a wide selection of drinks at the bar, including the house specialities, the Rio and the Capoeira, both with tropical fruits and Brasilian sugar cane rum and cachaça. Plus, the head barman promises more to come. Food aside, if what you're after is a more musical nourishment, then you're in luck; Coco Bamboo clears the floor from 10pm, to make room for dancing. Already thinking about the summer? (We are) - there is a beautiful terrace outside.

Meals from £7.50 to £11.00 Coco bamboo 48 Chalk Farm Road, NW1 8AJ Camden Town 020 7627 6613

56 JungleDrums DECEMBER / JANUARY 2010

Parker Street, WC2B 5PW Holborn

127 Upper Street, N1 1QP Angel

0207 242 8600 GUANABARA.CO.UK

SEE p.06

Intertrans Café Brasilian snacks & Money Transfer service. 35 Oxford Street W1D 2DT Tottenham Court Rd

BRAZILIAN GOURMET Cafe/Restaurant serving Brasilian and Portuguese specialities. Rump Steak (Picanha no prato) £6.50

020 7437 0400

The London Equestrian, N12 7BP Mill Hill East 0208 343 4161 ELVAQUERO .CO.UK

36 -38 Dean Street, W1D 4PS Leicester Square 0207 494 4716 • IGUANAS.CO.UK

BENITO’S HAT L Mexican Burritos, tacos, salads, beer and cocktails. Main meal and drink £7.00 56 Goodge Street, W1T 4NB Goodge Street 0207 637 3722 BENITOS-HAT.COM

0207 226 3222 DESPERADOS-ISLINGTON.CO.UK

El-Vaquero Argentinean Meats served off the skewer. Meat or fish with salad buffet £19.95

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine. Pescado con Coco £11.50

07983 633 440

nuts for coco

Desperados Mexican Mexican food, cocktails and a great atmosphere. Beef Chimichangas £10.95

020 7837 1999 • ALACRUZ.COM

Whitfield St 112, W1T 5EE Warren Street Coco bamboo

Guanabara Food, live music and even dance classes. Fish Moqueca Stew £12.50

WAHACA Freshly made, authentic Mexican dishes. Fish a la Veracruzana £9.95 66 Chandos Place, WC2N 4HG Covent Garden

GARUFA Premium selection of meat and wines carefully sourced from Argentina. Grilled Rib Eye Steak (300gr) with garnish £16.00 104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE Arsenal 020 7226 0070 GARUFA.CO.UK

east LONDON SEE

Bankete p.63 Brasilian cuisine dishes, picanha and feijoada. Chicken Stroganoff £6.50 3 Bell Lane, E1 Liverpool Street/ Aldgate 020 7247 5479

SEE Buen Ayre p.19 Argentinean steak house Main meal and a drink £20

50 Broadway Market, E8 4QJ Cambridge Heath 020 7275 9900 • buenayre.co.uk

CARIBBEN SCENE Award winning Caribbean restaurant offering an impressive range of traditional dishes and cocktails. Ackee & Saltfish £14.95 17 Western Gateway Royal Victoria Dock, E16 1AQ DLR – Royal Victoria 020 7511 2023

0207 240 1883 • WAHACA.CO.UK

MERCADO BAR & CANTINA BELLO CAFE B Brasilian and Italian specialties. 55–57 Charing Cross Road Leicester Square SEE

07833229369

p.62

Café Rio Feijoada and steaks prepared the Brasilian way. Prato Rio £9.80

Exciting cocktails and a great mix of Mexican home cooking and traditional favourites. Fish Taco £6.00

north LONDON Barrio North Latino-style ‘street food’ served, DJs and events. Brasilian Wax Cocktail £6.75

0207 485 4738 BARRIONORTH.COM

0207 387 2285

020 7923 0555 MERCADO-CANTINA.CO.UK

Rodízio Rico Eat-till-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table Buffet £22.50, veg £15.50

45 Essex Road, N1 2SF Angel

6 Grafton Way, W1T 5DS Warren Street

26 - 30 Stoke Newington Church St, N16 0LU Stoke Newington rail

Chilango A burst of Mexican flavour. Chicken Burrito £5.40 27 Upper Street, N1 OPN Angel020 704 2123 142 Fleet Street, EC4A 2BP City Thameslink 020 7353 6761 • Chilango.co.uk

Coffee Café Serves snacks and lunch Feijoada + Guaraná drink £5 68 Compton Street, EC1V Farringdon 020 7253 1249

Canela Brasilian and Portuguese dishes. Feijoada £9.50

SEE p.57

33 Earlham Street, WC2H 9LS Convent Garden 0207 240 6926 • CANELACAFE.COM

Comida South American rodízio with music, dancing and late bar. Lunch £16.90 Dinner £19.90 46 South Molton St, W1K 5RX Bond Street 020 7495 1177 comidabar.co.uk

Canecão Pool tables and Brasilian football on TV. Fish Moqueca £7.90

77-78 Upper Street, N1 0NU Angel 020 7354 1076 rodiziorico.com

El Paso Cocktail bar and restaurant serving Mexican, Tex-Mex and vegetarian dishes.

0207 485 4738 canecaolondon.com

SABOR Latin American Food and cocktails with a fusion touch. Brasilian Moqueca £13.50

350-354 Old St, EC1V 9NQ Old St. SEE

CASA BRASIL TimeOut - recommended. Authentic home-made food. Fish Moqueca £8.90

020 7226 5551 sabor.co.uk

17 York Way, N7 9QG Caledonian Road

289 Regents Park Rd, N3 3JY Finchley Central 020 8371 1999

FREGGO L Argentine ice cream bar offering a mouth watering range of flavours like Banana split and Malbec&Berries. Two-flavour cone £3.95 27-29 Swallow St., W1B 4QR Piccadilly

COCO BAMBOO Recently opened Brasilian restaurant with a dance floor starting from 10pm. Char-Grilled “Picanha” £8.90 48, Chalk farm Road, NW1 8AJ Camden Town SEE

p.59

108 Essex Rd London, N1 8LX Angel

SPIRITUAL CAIPIRINHA BAR New Brasilian cocktail bar serving traditional and fusion dishes. Weekend lunch with free shot of caipirinha – from £6

0207 739 4202

p.61

Favela Chic Seductive Latin flavours with French touches. Hand of God £15 91-93 Great Eastern St, EC2A Old Street 0207 613 5228 • FAVELACHIC.COM

Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20 5 Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PG 020 7256 6877

29 Westferry Circus, E14 8RR 4 Ferdinand St, NW1 8ER Chalk Farm

020 7987 9494

bookings@spiritualbar.co.uk SPIRITUALBAR.CO.UK

020 7626 5180 gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Green and Red, Bar and Cantina Authentic Jaliscan food and the biggest selection of tequila in the UK. Late-night DJ bar.

1 Bell Inn Yard, EC3V 0BL

020 7287 9506 • FREGGO.CO.UK

020 7627 6613

Gaucho Serves steaks, chicken and fish dishes. Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

Cuba Libre & Havana Original restaurant with tapas, meals and cocktails. El Plato Cubano £12.95

Tortilla Fresh, affordable CalifornianMexican cuisine. Burritos £4.50 - £5.50

125 Chancery Lane, WC2A 1PU Chancery Lane

72 Upper Street, N1 ONY Angel

13 Islington High St, N1 9LQ Angel

51 Bethnal Green Rd, E1 6LA

0207 242 7727 GAUCHORESTAURANTS.CO.UK

0207 354 9998 CUBALIBRELONDON.CO.UK

020 7833 3103 tortilla.co.uk

020 7749 9670 greenred.co.uk

picture by THELLIUS ZAMPROGNO


latin bites

BOOK NOW!

For the first time in the UK, an authentic Argentine asador has opened its door in Central London A LA CRUZ RESTAURANT 42 NORTHAMPTON ROAD CLERKENWELL LONDON EC1R 0HU

020 7837 1999 http://www.alacruz.com

57


bars & restaurants Rodízio Rico Eat-til-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table. Buffet £22.50, Veg £15.50

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine. Old Spitalfields Market - 1 Horner Square, E1 6AA Liverpool Street

Weekday Lunch Buffet £8.95 72 Wilton Road, SW1V 1DE Victoria 020 7233 8668

Santa Maria del Sur Argentinean grill house with live music on Mondays. Argentinean Steak £12, Vegetarian dishes £8 - £12 129 Queenstown Road, SW8 Battersea

The O2, SE10 0AX North Greenwich

IGUANAS.CO.UK

Raízes Grilled steaks and torresmo on the menu. Grilled rib £7 460 Hackney Road, E2 9EG

Ferreira Delicatessen Sandwiches, meats, cheeses, wines, frozen + fresh food. Portuguese Nata Tart 70p

0208 858 6333 rodiziorico.com

Tito's Peruvian Seafood, soups and risottos. Ceviche £7.50 4-6 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG London Bridge

south east LONDON

89 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DX 25 Swallow Street, W1B 4DJ

Sushinho Brasilian chic with Japanese efficiency. Sushinho roll £9

0207 407 7787 TITOSEATERIES.COM

Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

020 8948 4030

0207 622 2088 SANTAMARIADELSUR.CO.UK

Bethnal Green • 020 7739 2009

40 Delancey Street, NW1 Camden Town 020 7485 2351

312-314 King's Rd, SW3 5UH South Kensington

020 7734 4040 gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Guanabana Famous Jerk chicken served with mango+papaya chutney. £7.85 - £12.75.

sushinho.com

Buenos Aires Café Argentinean beef, fresh pasta and Argentinean style pizzas. Grilled Bbq £14.50 – £24

south west LONDON Azteca Latin Lounge

17 Royal Parade, SE3 0TL Blackheath

Mexican cuisine, mouth watering cocktails and beers. Latin bands and top DJs.

0208 318 5333 BUENOSAIRESLTD.COM

356 Kings Road, SW3 5ES South Kensington 0207 352 4087 AZTECALATINLOUNGE.COM

CONSTANCIA – ARGENTINE GRILL Argentine Steak House recently inaugurated. Ojo de Bife Argentino (310gr) - 11oz.Prime Argentine Rib-Eye £17.00 52 Tanner Street, SE1 3PH Borough • 020 7234 0676 SEE CONSTANCIA.CO.UK

p.61

CUBANA – BAR & RESTAURANT Home-cooked Cuban and Latin food prepared from quality ingredients at a reasonable price. Happy Hour Mojitos - 2 for £6.95 48 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG Waterloo 0207 928 8778 • CUBANA.CO.UK

BRAZAS Restaurant and delicatessen serving home-made food with Portuguese, Brasilian and English influences. Sticky date pudding (with caramel sauce & vanilla ice cream) £3.45 45 Tulse Hill - SW2 2TJ 020 8678 0697 BRAZASRESTAURANTE.COM

El Gaucho Grill Steak House £13.90 Chelsea Farmers Market, 125 Sydney St - SW3 6NR South Kensington 0871 3328774 elgaucho.co.uk

Fiesta Havana Cocktail lounge bar with tapas, live music and dance. Chorizio Quesadilla £4.95

El Vergel Uniting aromatic and spicy Latin America with delicate Mediterranean flavours.

020 7381 5891 Havanafulham.co.uk

8 Lant St. SE1 1QR Borough

Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

490 Fulham Road SW6 5NH Fulham Broadway

020 7357 0057 • elvergel.co.uk

Towpath, Richmond TW10 6UJ La Bodeguita Tapas, fish and home-made Colombian food. £8 - 13 Elephant & Castle Shopping Centre, SE1 6TE Elephant & Castle 0207 701 9166 LABODEGUITA.CO.UK

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine Royal Festival Hall - SE1 8XX The O2 - SE10 0DS 0207 494 4716 • IGUANAS.CO.UK

020 7584 9901 gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Margarita Loca Latin Music, Mexican food and Cuban cocktails. Fajita King Prawn £11.95

85 Kentish Town Rd, NW1 Camden Town canela

luso cuisine If you’re looking for a place to have good Lusophone food right in the heart of the West End, look no further: Canela is the place to go. With branches in Covent Garden and Carnaby Street, the restaurant serves Portuguese specialities such as bacalhau (salted cod) and Brasilian dishes like feijoada (black beans stew), as well as lighter and more local choices like quiches and soups. We'd recommend starting with something small and light like pão de queijo cheese breads, chorizo sausage in wine with bread, or coxinha, a Brasilian fried snack of chicken, onions and herbs which we'd go as far to say as being one of the best in London. If you're after something a little more filling, the chorizo tart, made with sausage, soaked bread and herbs, is delicious and different, but if you're going for a full meal then we'd have to recommend the marvellous Bacalhau à Canela, which comes with potatoes, onions and herbs in a cream sauce – it's tender and well seasoned, served in a traditional Iberian terracotta dish. To accompany, the drinks list includes a variety of Portuguese wines, including some not often seen this side of the Channel. Delicious deserts include the Portuguese custard tart or pastel de nata, traditional Brasilian chocolate brigadeiro and the sumptuous coconut and egg quindim, amongst others, and they're perfect to take home - if you're feeling generous enough!

527 Battersea Park Rd, SW11 Clapham Junction Rail 0207 924 2772 margaritaloca.co.uk

Preto Traditional Brasilian “rodízio” With live music on the weekends.

58 JungleDrums DECEMBER / JANUARY 2010

0207 4851166 guanabanarestaurant.com

Gostosa Pizzeria Brasilian style pizzas and burgers as well as authentic Brasilian dishes such as feijoada.

west LONDON Café Estrela do Norte Portuguese cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Spicy Francesinha £9.50

159, High St Harlesden, NW10 Willesden Junction 020 8963 1400

294 Kingshill Av, UB4 8BX 0208 841 3488 • GO.TO/ESTRELA

Ipanema Café Special daily dishes, feijoada, puddings and cakes. Buffet £1.20/100g 7-9 Queensway, W2 Queensway • 020 7792 9050 ipanemacafe.co.uk Rodízio Rico Eat-till-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table Buffet £22.50, veg £15.50 Royal Oak - 111 W2, Queensway 020 7792 4035 rodiziorico.com

Made in Brasil Classic Brasilian fare, from seafood to meat and feijoada. Picanha Na Chapa £13.50 12 Inverness Street, NW1 Camden Town 020 7482 0777 made-in-brasil.co.uk

Mestizo Restaurant-bar offering a fine and authentic Mexican cuisine Enchiladas £12 103 Hampstead Rd, NW1 3EL Warren Street 020 7387 4064 mestizomx.com

Sabor Brasileiro Brasilian fish and beef, game room, internet, bar/ lounge. Buffet £7.50 10% weekend discount

north west LONDON

639 Harrow Road NW10 5NU Kensal Green

Amber Grill Rodizio Cuts of meat from skewers. Prime Rodízio £19.50

02089691149

7, Station Road, NW10 4UP Willesden Junction

Sabor Mineiro Typical dishes from Minas Gerais (but no alcoholic drinks). Buffet £6.50

020 89631588 ambergrill.co.uk

SEE p.61

Barraco The atmosphere of a Brasilian bar with live music Friday to Sunday. Chicken Hearts £6 10 Kingsgate Place, NW6 Kilburn 020 7604 4664 barracocafe.co.uk

SEE p.60

63 Station Road, NW10 4UX Willesden Junction 020 8965 2050

The Cuban Long bar upstairs or dinner in the fiesta Room. Lamb Cubano £10.95 Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd Camden Town

Braseiro Hot “home food” and salad on a self-service buffet. Buffet £7.50

0870 850 8975 •thecuban.co.uk

Canela restaurant 33 Earlham Street, WC2H 9LS Convent Garden

256 High Road, NW10 Willesden Green

1024 Harrow Rd, NW10 5NS Kensal Green

0207 240 6926 • CANELACAFE.COM

020 8451 8902

020 8964 3763

Bacalhau à Canela £9.50

Xodó da Leninha Brasilian family run restaurant.

picture by ANA BRASIL


latin bites

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latin bites

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latin bites

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latin bites

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1/10/09 19:03:15


latin bites

63


jungle guide

64


jungle guide

Is your English good

but still not fluent and natural? Do you still have problems in understanding everyday English conversation, even though your grammar is good and you’ve been learning English for years? Study twenty minutes a day with the

Practical Everyday English book and audio CD and take your spoken English to a higher level. Popular with intermediate/advanced level Brazilians for over twelve years. Available in the UK at all branches of Waterstones, Foyles and Blackwell, and online at www.amazon.co.uk

www.learnenglishadvanced.com

Who Are We? In 2002 people started talking about the mangosteen fruit. XanGo is the first and only Mangosteen juice with pureed Whole Mangosteen Fruit and has sold over $1Billion of juice in just 5 years. Natural Medicine is Big Business. TM

MANGOSTEEN FRUIT What Is It? Some might question the effectiveness of natural health products but scientists have been studying the Mangosteen Fruit for decades. It’s what they call a Super Fruit, used in south east Asia for hundreds of years to aid intestinal health, skin conditions and infections to name just a few.

How Can XanGo Help You? TM

• HEALTH XanGo JuiceTM Mangosteen Supplement ElevivTM Feel Great Again restores your body’s natural chemistry • BEAUTY GlimpseTM Toxin Free Skin Nutrition • MONEY Business Partners wanted for worldwide expansion of international company.

TRY OUR PRODUCTS FREE! To claim your free Glimpse sample go to: http://tiny.cc/FreeGlimpseSamples Should you require further assistance concerning other products or our business opportunity please contact Pam Gurney 44 (0) 1245 283 789 or e-mail pam.gurney@wonderfulmangosteen.biz

www.wonderfulmangosteen.biz (biz info) www.wonderfulmangosteen.com (product info)

65


jungle guide

66


jungle guide

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jungle guide

LEARN BRAZILIAN PORTUGUESE Private Tuition

07837 084 002

aviojanuzzi@yahoo.com.br

FEHJK=K;I; B;IIEDI

dez_privatetutor_1_32.indd 1

YOUR BRAZILIAN TEXT TRANSLATED INTO NATIVE BRITISH ENGLISH

7/12/09 13:47:44 LEGAL CONTRACTS, ACADEMIC PAPERS, PRESS RELEASES, OFFICIAL DOCS FOR VISAS AND IMMIGRATION

Eg^kViZ ij^i^dc KVg^Zin d[ iZVX]^c\ bZi]dYh

%'%- ,,-*)%+ GDH:

FERNANDO NONOHAY 53"%6503 */5²313&5& 130'&4403

www.transportuguese.co.uk info@transportuguese.co.uk

Sarah Rebecca Kersley - Member, Chartered Institute of Linguists

INGLĂŠS NA IRLANDA

jul_transportuguese_1_32_2.indd 1 28/7/09 14:01:58 INSTITUTE OF LINGUISTS28/1/08 template_1_32.indd.&.#&3 0' 5)& CHARTERED 1 19:51:24 Aprenda inglês na Irlanda t 53"%6¹°0 +63".&/5"%" &/53&(" 31*%" Preços excelentes e plano de pagamento t 4&37*¹04 %& */5&313&5"¹°0 Possibilidade de trabalho t 10356(6&4& -&440/4 "-- -&7&-4

07740 588 055

www.nonohay.com nonohay@gmail.com

INFORMAÇÕES:

bibertoni@hotmail.com

07876744314

68 mai_ireland_1_32.indd 1

29/4/09 13:28:58


jungle guide

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jungle guide

Air Conditioning Commercial & Domestic Air Conditioning suitable for

SALES • SERVICES • MAINTENANCE CREDIT CRUNCH SPECIAL DEAL AIR CON under 2.8KW, wall mounted, supplied and installed from 990.00+VAT.

OFFICES • SHOPS RESTAURANTS COMPUTER ROOM HOTEL HOUSES & CONSERVATORIES

NOTE: Prices are subject to site survey, location and assume a minimal pipe runs. EXCLUSIONS: Builders work, Planning permission, Electrics, Condense Pump

Free Quotes: Phone: 0844 335 6317 • Mobile: 07865 04 59 14 Fabio Moreira (Portuguese/English)

For more information visit: www.refritech.co.uk e-mail: info@refritech.co.uk

Chocolate wrappers for any occasion! by Claudia

More information:

Claudia

07837716049

70

Fotógrafos para casamentos em Londres!

Planejamos o casamento e lua-de-mel de seus sonhos

Choose from a wide range of Chocolate Wrappers, or even let us design personal ones for your special event. We only use British made creamy milk chocolate, so you can be rest assured that the wrapper will look fabulous, the chocolate taste great and the occasion remembered.

claudia@chocolatewrappingfactory.co.uk www.clauchocolatewrappingfactory.co.uk

www.specialday-weddings.co.uk +44 (0) 20 8830 5469

K8196


jungle guide

Dr. Ítalo Moraes

Brazil Hair & Beauty

D E N T I S TA B R A S I L E I R O

Colour, Haircut, Hair Relaxing, Keratin Treatment, Japanese Yuko System, Permanent Straightening, Hair Extension Waxing, Manicure and Pedicure, Eletrolifting, Facial Cleansing, Eyebrow Design, Massage

35

Cut, Blow Dry and Highlight £ Every Wednesday:

Manicure and Pedicure 20 Brazilian + under arm waxing £

25

£

Get a free Hydration Therapy when you go for a Permanent Straightening!

Inauguraremos nossa nova clínica em Covent Garden a partir de janeiro. Faça sua primeira consulta gratuitamente e ainda concorra a um clareamento dental. Atendimento personalizado, com qualidade e preço justo.

55-57 Charing Cross Road WC2H 0NE

T: 020 7734 9989

Leicester Square Station (Exit 2)

http://www.brazilhairandbeauty.co.uk/

07903782697

italocmoraes@hotmail.com Fazemos uso de microscópio clínico em nossos tratamentos.

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jungle guide

Your current income allows you to meet your financial commitments and family? Would you like to be debt free in a period of 2 to 5 years?

You ever thought of retiring in your job without having to comply with the years of service required under the retirement plans?

New Business Opportunity! Contact: Jorge Martinez Mobile: 07940506064 gmartinezq62@hotmail.com

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VOCÊ ESTA TENDO PROBLEMAS EM CONSEGUIR SEU VISTO OU QUALQUER OUTRO PROBLEMA COM A IMIGRAÇÃO? Nos somos especializados em direito de imigração há 20 anos e atuamos em todos os países Europeus, EUA e Canadá. Escritório Londres: 43-45 Portman Sq W1H 6HN

WE WORK SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AT VERY REASONABLE RATES

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For a quote call 07859 946 435 info@proteus-professional-cleaners.co.uk

info@eumigration.com | www.eumigration.com

Tel: 0207 969 2912 (Inglês) Contact Ronald on 0791 780 2121 (Português)

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at us o latinfusion SAMBA DE GAFIEIRA, FORRÓ AND BOLERO BOOK YOUR PRIVATE CLASSES IN THE CONFORT OF YOUR HOME OR AT A VENUE. More info:

DOUGLAS GOMES 0794 7410 853

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72

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2/11/09 14:51:1


KPDQZ + ,WPING WPING Anyway, I will invite friends. P.S. I love JD and this is the second time I won with you and totally deserve it, coz I just love your magazine and I’m online on your site all day. You’re doing a great job! All the best, Pansela Turcea, SMS

Do not hesitate to send us your raves and rants! JungleDrums p.o. box 49713 london wc1x 8ww inbox@jungledrums.org NEWS FROM SPAIN Dear Jungle! How are you? Long time, no news... I’m living in Barcelona now, I miss the people from London but it's a very nice city. I wanted to ask you how the JungleDrums party was, for sure it was a success like the one I went to last year. Please tell me how it was! Big hug. Martita Reviejo, email Dear Martita, Jungle’s 7th anniversary was indeed a great party! Zeep and Céu played at ULU for the first part of the celebration, then we rolled over to El Paso for the afterparty with Molotov Jukebox, and DJ Limão on decks. Sorry you couldn’t be here, but there’s always next year, right? Keep in touch! 2 UNLUCKY WINNERS (This pair both won a competition of ours for a party at Matter...) Hey JD, Getting the tickets was wicked, thanks so much! The funny part is that I told my boyfriend: I’m going to win tickets to see Infected Mushroom but he didn’t believe me and bought tickets. How funny!

Hi Jungle, Sorry, I only saw your email today! It was in the 'trash folder', it went directly like spam and only appeared today!! I went to the party, but paying!! Thank you anyway for advertising the party, otherwise I wouldn’t have gone, it was good! Keep up the good work ; ) Filipa Ferreira, email Hi Filipa, What a bummer the email went into the spam! That's a good point guys - always add Jungle to your address book. Anyway, we're glad you made it to the party at least! AIN'T NO SUCK UP I love JungleDrums! No, I won't be kissing your arse to get a ticket to the 7 year anniversary but I would do almost anything else!!! I am a regular reader of your magazine but as I live on the southeast coast I appreciate the fact that you have a digital version. As a fan of Brasilian music there is no way I that I would miss your Birthday. Feliz Aniversario JungleDrums. Beijos e abraço, Nick Dewhirst, email A THANKFUL READER I'd never heard of Márcio Local before. I wanted to thank Jungle for introducing me to him. He's very good indeed!!! Paulo Rossetto, email Hi Paulo, It's good to hear you liked him. We're always glad to introduce new artists - it's one of Jungle's main aims!

B::I I=: G:69:G

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BRITISH-PORTUGUESE TRANSLATION STUDENT WHO HOPES TO END UP ON A BEACH IN BRASIL

important to expose readers to both languages. What's your favourite section in the magazine? The Insider - it offers really useful travel hints and tips from locals and people that readers may not otherwise have access to. What would you like to see more of in the mag? I would like to see more travel features and articles on other Portuguese speaking countries, as most people only know about Brasil and Portugal! What is your favourite place in Brasil? Without a doubt Florianópolis, Santa Catarina. It has the perfect combination of natural beauty and buzzing city life. I fell in love with it! ,&

What do you do for a living? I work as a PA in a magazine publishing company but I’m also studying for an MA in Translation Studies (Portuguese and English). My goal is to work as a freelance translator, based in Brasil (preferably on a beach somewhere!). How did you find out about Jungle? My parents are Portuguese and my boyfriend and most of my friends are Brasilian. I came across the mag a few years ago and have been an avid reader since. Why do you read Jungle? I like the fact it’s written in both Portuguese and English, it’s the only magazine of its kind. As a translator, I think it's really

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