TAKE THAT OBAMA!
RIO GOES WILD FOR THE 2016 GAMES BREATHTAKING
A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE IGUAÇú FALLS ITACARÉ
WE REVEAL THE NEW ECO-WONDERLAND
25
Unforgettable experiences
in brasil
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Steamond Journeys - Brazil Please call us on 020 7730 9639 or Email info@steamondjourneys.com FOZ DO IGUAÇU – Viewing platforms
RIO DE JANEIRO – Carnival
Welcome to Brazil Welcome to Steamond Journeys Steamond Journeys is synonymous with travel to Brazil and Latin America. Since 1973 we've been flying people down to experience the wonders of this region. For over 35-years Steamond has been organising the very varied and diverse travel arrangements and demands of thousands and thousands of independent travellers like you. Over the years we've looked after them while they've been in Brazil and Latin America. Our recommendations of how to travel, what to see and where to stay has been, and continues to be, based on our specialist knowledge of each unique area. Knowledge that covers from Mexico in the north all the way down to Antarctica in the south, and NORTHEAST – Lagoinha, Paraipaba, Ceará
everywhere in between, including the giant of the region, Brazil. We know Brazil and the rest of Latin America better than any other tour operator in the
AMAZON – Typical rainforest lodge
UK. Many of our staff, including our London office, are from the region and we have resident experts on the ground in each of the countries working closely with us and looking forward to greeting you on your arrival. Steamond Journeys offers a selection of specially escorted interest tours. These are tours for individuals or small groups based around certain themes or topics such as birdwatching, culture, history and heritage. The tours include the participation of specialist guides and experts, who will meet the group and help bring the subject matter to life. For Brazil in particular, Steamond Journeys offers the chance to forge life-long memories, be they on the North coasts’ beautiful beaches, in the natural majesty of the Amazon and Pantanal, taking in the raw power of the waterfalls at Foz do Iguaçu or absorbing Rio de Janeiro’s magical Carnival atmosphere. If you have a particular interest, let us know as we may have the perfect tour for you. Whether you're thinking of going to São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, or elsewhere in Brazil or Latin America, please give us a call. It will be time well spent.
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EMILENE ZITKUS
trips
contents
6 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
44
JOSÉ AMARO AMAZONASTUR
what’’s on rio 2016 All eyes on Rio after much coveted prize cultural agenda On the way to the Tropics? Don’t miss this EATING OUT Can Alex Atala repeat the trick? RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL Getting the hands (and knees) dirty INTERVIEW: JEANINE PIRES Brasil’s first lady of tourism talks to us
ARMANDO RESENDE NETO
36
12 14 16 18 19
FEATURES 25 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES What is your lasting memory of Brasil? PARINTINS Carnaval meets opera in the Amazon IGUAÇÚ FALLS A total guide to the travel icon ITACARÉ The hottest new destination in Bahia RIO-SANTOS HIGHWAY Brasil’s best drive hides unspoilt treasures
20 36 44 52 56
INSIDER
EMBRATUR
52
INTERVIEW: SIMON REEVE He’s caught again imagining the lines SÃO PAULO BACK STREETS Two new takes for the city’s hip spots 24 HOURS IN SALVADOR A quick guide to the party capital INTERVIEW: TUCA REINÉS Bahia’s favourite gatecrasher LIFE IN AN ECO VILLAGE How far would you go for your footprint?
60 62 63 64 65
CHECKLIST TOP STAYS A round-up of the best places to stay TOUR OPERATORS The Brasil specialists in the UK AIRLINES All the routes lead to Brasil REVIEWS Handy websites to plan your trips
56
67 71 73 74
www.rcvb.com.br
editorial
publishing director Juliano Zappia jzappia@jungledrums.org editor Gabriel Silvestre destination@jungledrums.org ART DIRECTOR Neni Almeida design@jungledrums.org EDITORIAL TEAM Ana Brasil, Fernando Duarte, Ben P. Jones, Morena Madureira, Natália Martino, Ana Naomi, Fola Odumosu, Carlos Eduardo Oliveira, Milo Steelefox, João Vianna
memories in the making Every time I go back to Brasil, I try to keep a promise (it’s one I enjoy keeping): to visit somewhere I’ve never been before. In a country as big as a continent, with more than 4 thousand miles of coast, vast mountains, islands, forests and ecosystems, the options are almost infinite. This year, it was the Amazon. Staying in the middle of the forest, I spent some of the most incredible days of my life, and witnessed the biggest flood in the history of the Amazon river. My experience (curious to find out what it was? See article from page 20) is one of 25 recalled by Brasilian and British specialists in the biggest country in South America, and which are brought together here in our cover feature. And the experience of producing this, the new edition of Jungle Trips,
could not have been better, either – or more intense! After months of research, lead by our editor Gabriel Silvestre, you’re looking not just at the edition with the most pages, the biggest circulation and the most targeted distribution yet, including the airports of Heathrow and Gatwick, but also at a magazine with unique content, created word for word by people who understand Brasil like nobody else in the UK. For us, people who love and work with Brasil, the next decade holds a lot of promise: we will have the 2014 World Cup passing through various states, including Amazonas, and then, of course, the Olympics in Rio, in 2016. If you’ve not been to Brasil yet, then the time is now. And Jungle Trips is where the discovery and the passion all begin juliano zappia, publisher
brasil with an
‘s’
Yes, that’s right, the word Brasil appears throughout this magazine spelt with an ‘s’ instead a ‘z’, as is customary in English. It may seem strange to begin with, but you’ll soon get used to it. The reason for this is simple: we want to show an authentic slice of Brasil - and the authentic Brasil can only be spelt with an ‘s’, just as it is in Portuguese.
DESIGNERS Clarissa San Pedro, Thellius Zamprogno Illustrator Alexandre Beraldo Production Assistant Felipe Oliviero info@jungledrums.org Photographers Luciane Moral, Alex Robinson, João Vianna, Emilene Zitkus Translation Ana Naomi, Emily Lemos, Liz Sharma Advertisement Juliana Calderon, Mirella Carapeba, Aline Rice, Milo Steelefox Distribution BR Jet, Emblem and Green Bug Media distribution@jungledrums.org Subscription subscribe@jungledrums.org JUNGLE TRIPS’ CONTACT
020 7242 5140 P.O.BOX 49713 LONDON WC1X 8WW Visit us at the stand LA42 at Destinations, the Holiday & Travel Show at Earls Court from Feb 4th 2010, in the Latin America section. Come and say hello! Jungle trips is Plublished by :
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 9
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inbox
Japannese connection Hello Jungle! A few months ago I asked one of your staff for a copy of Jungle Trips, since I was planning to go to Brasil. The magazine actually went with me and now I am studying Portuguese hard here in Japan in order to go back soon! Shinsuke Mizuno, Tokyo, Japan
3 out of 10! I was reading Jungle Trips all evening, thought it was terrific, very edgy, what wonderful work you’re doing to keep Brasil on the map here and so much about Art and Culture. Loved reading up on the 10 best beaches (I’ve been to 3 out of the 10 - not bad), and about the BBC programme on the Amazon, article on Ouro Preto and all the art features. Well done.
Cácio murilo
Caroline Taylor, via email
win Last year we ran a competition together with TAP Portugal to give away two return tickets to any of their destinations in Brasil. The lucky winner was John McNamara (pictured below) and he’s decided to spend Carnival 2010 in Fortaleza, and also visit Rio de Janeiro. We wish him a great trip!
Dear Shinsuke, We remember fondly your getting in touch with us from Japan, as it’s always great to know how far away your readers come from! And even better to know that after subscribing to JungleDrums you are now learning the language to return to Brasil. If anyone’s interested in receiving the electronic version of Jungle or subscribing, then simply drop us an email on subscribe@jungledrums.org
Culture savvy I’ve lived with Brasilians before and I get information on Brasilian culture and events from the internet (youtube), Brasilian magazines (JungleDrums) and newspapers. I loved reading JungleTrips, especially the article on Brasil’s beaches... Filipe Lorenzo, via e-mail
What? No São Paulo beaches?!
Winding us up
When I got JungleTrips at the WTM (2008/9 edition) I was captured by the title Top 10 Beaches in Brasil and went straight to the article to see if my favourite Brasilian beach was there - it was! Lopes Mendes on the beautiful Ilha Grande should be top 1. Although the list was good, it missed out beaches on the north coast of São Paulo! One might say that Brasil has too many good ones! Keep up the good work.
Dear Jungle, What a fabulous magazine, this Jungle Trips! It took me about a half hour to open it (I sometimes think you have to wind up the internet here in Rio de Janeiro) but it was really worth it. Great articles, excellentdesign. It’s a long time since I saw such an attractive publication. Congratulations.
Brendan Shaw, London, via email
(www.hiddenpousadasbrazil.com)
Alison McGowan, Hidden Pousadas
You can also try your luck this year, as we have teamed up again with TAP Portugal to give away another round trip to Brasil, but this time with a luxury stop in Lisbon or Porto, courtesy of Pousadas de Portugal. To take part, go to www.portugueseconnection.co.uk and play our game in which you have to answer questions about Lisbon! The website also cointains a guide to both cities, as well as a video diary from our crew who produced it. Good luck!
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 11
what’s on
know before you go
Reaching for the Olympic Dream on your marks, get set: rio! it's time for a south american city to host the olympics words by Gabriel Silvestre
The international media, politicians, athletes and celebrities, who gathered in Copenhagen on the 2nd October for the announcement of which city would host the 2016 Olympic Games, could never have predicted the result. Considered the underdog of the four finalist cities, of which Barack Obama’s Chicago was the hot favourite, Rio’s bid caused grumblings over the fact that Brasil would host the FIFA World Cup only two years before the Games, and there were also concerns over the huge budget forecasts.
12 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
In their third attempt to bring the Olympics to Brasil, the Rio campaign impressed even the harshest sceptics. “There were absolutely no flaws in the bid”, summarised Jacques Rogge, the President of the International Olympic Committee (IOC). After an impressive video presentation on the infrastructure developments planned for the Games, President Luis Inácio Lula da Silva commented “It’s time to address the imbalance. The Olympic Games belong to all peoples, to all continents, and to all humanity.”
cup world
2014
Tropigoal Host cities unveil their plans as they start the countdown to the 2014 football World Cup words by Gabriel Silvestre
In 2016, the games will take place in a South American city for the first time. After its 2004 and 2012 attempts were thwarted, Rio de Janeiro held the continental equivalent of the competition, the Pan American games, giving an ‘Olympic treatment’ to the construction of stadiums and arenas, and demonstrating its credentials as an Olympic city candidate. There are still question marks hovering over Brasil’s ability to prepare itself for the two events in such a short space of time. Transport, logistics, construction and security are some of the greatest challenges that lie ahead, but it is just as true that an economy presenting constant levels of growth like Brasil’s is bound to attract more foreign investment, as well as having a chance to promote its tourist destinations with two of the world’s most popular events. rio2016.org.br
After the International Federation of Association Football (FIFA) authorised the Brasilian FA to expand the number of cities hosting the 2014 World Cup, the twelve chosen locations unveiled their plans for renovations and new stadiums. At an estimated cost of £2 billion to the taxpayer, the projects range from the refurbishment of famous football meccas like the Maracanã (in Rio de Janeiro) and Morumbi (São Paulo) to the construction of four new stadiums from scratch. It’s not by chance that these new arenas are clearly influenced by modern European stadiums, like Manaus’ Vivaldão, which resembles the Allianz Arena in Munich. In contrast, the Cuiabá stadium draws on the bountiful nature of the nearby Pantanal region, resulting in an ecologically conscious and encompassing design. In line with FIFA demands, the construction works must begin by January 2010 and be completed by 2012, all in good time for the Confederations Cup, the tournament which will serve as a dress rehearsal for the World Cup, one year before it begins. fifa.com
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 13
what’s on
copacabana sand waves brasil's most famous beach to gain an innovative new musem words by Ana Brasil
Natural beauty Contemporary art meets tropical nature in a new and exciting museum words by Natália Martino photo by Lilian Miranda
Built among century-old trees, ornamental lakes and botanical gardens, the Inhotim Museum, 40 miles from the city of Belo Horizonte, is the most interesting addition to the Brasilian contemporary art scene in recent years. Exploiting the full artistic potential of the nature reserve surrounding the museum, the space holds more than 500 works by Brasilian and international artists in six galleries, as well as works displayed in the open air. In some works, like Através, by Cildo Meireles - the artist who recently had a retrospective exhibition at the Tate Modern - visitors are invited to interact with the installation. At the centre of a large gallery, the floor is covered in tiny shards of glass which you can walk over, producing a musical sound path. Hélio Oiticica, another artist whose work has passed through the doors of the Tate, and Neville D’Almeida’s works, allow 14 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
viewers to relax in hammocks whilst they watch slideshows of designs whilst listening to Jimmy Hendrix. International artists are also wellrepresented, with works by Doris Salcedo, Jonathan Monk, Steve McQueen and Janet Cardiff. As if that weren’t enough, Inhotim also boasts 650 hectares of native Atlantic forest and tropical gardens, with rare species from Brasil and all over the world. The gardens are well tended, offering the perfect harmony between art and nature. Visitors can relax in one of the chairs made from tree-trunks, or enjoy a meal in the sophisticated restaurant whilst enjoying the view. Museu de Inhotim Rua B, 20 – Brumadinho Thu-Fri 9.30-16.30 Sat-Sun 9.30-17.30 inhotim.org.br
Copacabana beachfront will soon be radically altered as plans for the new Museum of Image and Sound (MIS) were unveiled last August. New Yorkbased practice Diller Scofidio + Renfro’s winning design beat competition from the likes of Daniel Libeskind’s and Isay Weinfeld to revitalise a sleazy section of the legendary beach. Inspired by the undulating black and white design of the beachfront pavement, the iconic building was budgeted at £22.7m and will house the original collection as well as a new conservation and memory centre making use of new media and interaction. An open air projection area at the rooftop will compete with the killer views of the Atlantic. The buildings on the site of the new museum will soon be bulldozed ending the 25-year reign of infamous Rio institution Help nightclub, a known site of prostitution and drug trafficking. It is expected that the museum will trigger a gentrification process of an otherwise decadent area of Copacabana beach.
dillerscofidio.com
Graffiti moving in Iconic São Paulo museum surrenders to the acclaim of brasilian street art words by Morena Madureira image by Calma (aka Stephan Doitschinoff)
In the summer of 2008, the Tate Modern left some art-lovers openmouthed when it offered up its enormous facade to international street artists and their clouds of spray-paint. amongst those selected for the historic exhibition were three Brasilians: the duo Os Gêmeos, and Nunca. Now it’s time for the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP) to give in to graffiti’s charms. Under the same roof as the likes of Rembrandt, Picasso and Van Gogh, there’ll be paintings, murals, installations, photographs and videos produced for the exhibition, by six of Brasil’s most famous street artists: Carlos Dias, Daniel Melim, Ramon Martins, Titi Freak, Zezão and Calma (otherwise known as Stephan Doitschinoff). Coined as De dentro para fora/ De fora para dentro (“Inside out, Outside In”), there will be six individual shows which will result in a strong and symbolic collective exhibition. De dentro para fora/ De fora para dentro MASP 19 Nov to 5 Feb 2010 Av Paulista 1578 – São Paulo masp.art.br
the taste of an Endless Party After the inauguration of the Samba City (Cidade do Samba) in Rio de Janeiro, it’s time for Recife to turn its carnival into an all-year event. In September, the Galo de Madrugada (The Dawn Cockrel) carnival block, which has been around since 1978, initiated music shows every week. Even if you can’t spend carnival in the city, you can still see the local celebrations with their costumes and parades to the beat of rhythms like frevo and maracatú. If you get to their headquarters - in an old colonial mansion - early enough, you can also enjoy a typical lunch with traditional, regional specialities. galodamadrugada.org.br
a thoughtful kiss in Bahia The result of an ambitious agenda of cultural exchange between Brasil and France, the Bahia Rodin Museum was inaugurated in October, in Salvador. All in all, the cultural space includes 62 works by Auguste Rodin, including two of his iconic sculptures, ‘The Thinker’ and “The Kiss’, which will be on show for the next three years. It’s the first time the Paris Rodin Museum has released so many works for a single exhibition, but they are confident of its success after an itinerant exhibition through six Brasilian cities between 1995 and 2001 attracted more than a million visitors. Museu Rodin Bahia Rua da Graça, 292 – Salvador Tue-Sun 10h-18h
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 15 picture by mateus pereira
what’s on
The Stars of Rio Michelin’s first take on Brasil is a surprisingly light, colourful and yet comprehensive guide to Rio de Janeiro and its surroundings. Pleasant on the eye it brings suggested drives, city-themed itineraries, outdoor sports and an area by area breakdown of Rio’s most interesting districts. Attractions - from museums and parks to the beaches and views - come judged by Michelin’s star system which helps the rushed traveller to easily identify the ones not to miss out. Advice boxes throughout the guide provide precious drops of wisdom such as the way to avoid being overcharged or how to enjoy the Marriott Copacabana’s top facilities without staying as a guest.
The Green Guide to Rio de Janeiro Michelin Travel Publications 288 pages, £14.99
This being Michelin, top dines receive careful attention. An insightful lowdown on the best restaurants for Brasilian and International cuisine, it also brings more humble experiences such as snack bars, pay-by-kilo joints and juice stalls. Bom apetite!
comfort cuisine Celebrity chef Alex Atala opens his new venture bringing a touch of class to everyday dishes words by Ana Brasil
FEELING PECKISH? PECK A PETISCO! Sometimes it’s hard to pick just one dish from the menu, especially when you’re abroad and not an expert on the local cuisine. Enter the petisco, Brasil’s answer to tapas; with snacks like fried kassava, cod pastries, grilled cheese and diced beef. Though not renowned for being small eaters, Brasilians have certainly embraced their small eats, and nowhere more than in Rio, where the rodizio de petiscos is becoming quite the thing. Once strictly on-the-go food, petiscos have recently moved uptown from the botequim snack-bars such as local institution Bar Jobi, to the menus of the city’s top restaurants. As with all food, petiscos are the perfect accompaniment to beer and good company, no matter where you eat them. Bar Jobi Av. Ataulfo de Paiva, 1166
16 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
Alex Atala, the Brasilian celebrity chef, is opening yet another restaurant in São Paulo, and from the looks of it, it’ll be at least as good as the awarded D.O.M. Dalva e Dito, inaugurating the concept of ‘emotional gastronomy’, which as he puts it, is Brasilian comfort food and home cooking, served to international standards. Some dishes refer all the way back to the colonial era, but are vacuum cooked in low temperatures, exploring innovative, top-end technology in gastronomy. “Dalva e Dito’s mission is to develop this cuisine, blending Brasilian soul with the most advanced technologies available”, says Atala. Rumours have it that there are some 70 kitchen staff working hard behind the scenes at Dalva e Dito to make it all happen. He accomplishes that by serving up Angus Prime Rib, and other roast dishes such as chicken, fish and red meat from the rotissoire with accompaniments such as rice, brown beans, potatoes and corn créme - food which you might well find being served in the most ordinary homes all over the country.
Experience
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In fact, Atala is something of an expert in Brasilian gastronomy, having written several texts on the subject after his training in French and Belgian Michelin-starred restaurants. Nothwithstanding, he is a staunch defender of Brasilian ingredients and culinary traditions. What’s in the name? Well, it comes from an imaginary couple that inhabit the chef’s mind. “Dalva is the first star to come out at night and Dito is a contraction of Saint Benedict (São Benedito), the patron saint of cooks”. The opening of Dalva e Dito follows the success of D.O.M, also in São Paulo, which was the only South American restaurant to be included in the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, from London’s Restaurant Magazine. The restaurant has been in the list since 2006, when it was placed 50th and it has been slowly making its way to the top ever since, reaching number 24 in 2009’s list. The recognition comes in very good time for Alex, who wants to put Brasilian cuisine permanently on the map of prestigious gastronomy. In order to do so, he often takes part in international events, as well as teaching classes around the world. “I want to put Brasilian cuisine on a pedestal”, he concludes. Dalva e Dito Rua Padre João Manuel, 1115 - São Paulo dalvaedito.com.br
Call to order your FREE brochure on 0800 804 8415 or view it online at tucantravel.com/brochure • Explore Brazil’s fabulous beaches, vast rainforests and emerald seas • Discover the deep cultural heritage of beautiful colonial towns like Ouro Prêto and Olinda • Experience the magnificent city of Rio de Janeiro and the world’s biggest party, Carnaval! • Go horseback riding in the Pantanal and visit the awe-inspiring Iguazu Falls • Take an unforgettable Expedition Cruise deep into the untouched Amazon basin
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what’s on
the building blocks of a sustainable future In IPEC’s words, this ain’t no Summer Camp or Eco Disneyland words by Milo Steelefox
In 1998 a small environmentallyminded project was founded in Pirenópolis, some 100 miles from Brasília, in the state of Goiás. Dedicated to promoting sustainable practices in the environment and communities of central Brasil, Ecocentro IPEC - the Institute
the jungle marathon... how to push yourself to the limit Sleeping in a hammock on river banks in Brasil’s 2nd biggest state, Pará, for a week - sound like a challenging ordeal to raise money and awareness for learning disabilities? Well, when by day you’re entirely self-sufficient, carrying all the food, kit and clothing needed to run 200km over seven days, it doesn’t sound quite so cushy. You may know someone who’s lapped Finsbury Park for the Rainforest Foundation’s 10k charity run, but for those with more ambitious charitable streaks, joining 100 others from 20 different
of Permaculture and Ecovillages of the Cerrado (Brasil’s vast tropical savanna ecoregion) – the experiences and courses found here are today at the forefront of their field, attracting from beyond Brasil those in search of something a little different, in the form of ‘voluntourism’.
Ecocentro IPEC brings together the community, local farmers and IPEC’s members through the philosophy of Community Supported Agriculture, with an emphasis on participatory organic farming, a holistic approach with respect for nature and animals, sharing resources for the benefit of current and future generations. Food is almost entirely produced on site (mostly organic and vegetarian), rainwater is captured and utilised and showers are heated by solar power, and one can here partake in the Ecoversidade (a word combining Ecological and University), studying anything from Permaculture to Sustainability, Water Management to Ecovillage or Ecological Design. Living, learning and working alongside the townsfolk you’ll get whipped up in family celebrations and local festivities, with traditional music and forró dancing, a truly hands on experience indeed! And this is all reminiscent of a fastspreading global movement, being World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms, otherwise known as WWOOFing, and Brasil has already cottoned on. So if bridging the gap between travel and environmentally-responsible farming is up your street, this could well be your stop.
IPEC - Institute of Permaculture and Ecovillages of the Cerrado Pirenópolis ecocentro.org WWOOF – World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms wwoofbrazil.com
countries (65 of which reach the finish by the way), that sign up for Mencap’s annual Jungle Marathon in the Amazon, might just do the trick. Gruelling and challenging it is, with wild creatures in the undergrowth, piranhas in the waters (mosquitoes at night as standard), heat and humidity every step of the way, but it’s not all bad: this extreme challenge is dappled with bottled water at Mencap’s checkpoints and warm support from local communities en route, but the best bit is knowing you’re raising awareness for and supporting the 1.5m people with a learning disability in the UK.
The next Jungle Marathon is 7th-16th October 2010. Fancy giving it a shot? junglemarathon.com rainforestfoundationuk.org
18 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010 Pictures by: Gil Serique
“We are on the right track” for embratur's president the olympics nomination is in safe hands as tourism numbers show a consistent growth interview by gabriel silvestre
Jeanine Pires is certainly not a person to go taking half measures. The president of Embratur – the Brasilian Tourism Authority – is faced with the unparalleled task of maximising the country’s exposure and marketing opportunities brought by two of the most prestigious international sporting events to be held in the country. Ahead of the preparations for London’s World Travel Market in November she talks to us about Brasil’s performance in the UK market and why David Beckham has reason to be happy with the Rio 2016 Olympic Games. Five years after Plano Aquarela - the first integrated marketing plan for promoting Brasil abroad - was implemented, how would you summarise the results? I think we’ve had the best results possible: today, Brasil is one of the principal emerging tourist destinations in the world. The World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) ranked Brasil as the 13th in its index of world tourism economies and in 2008, tourists brought $5.8 billion to Brasil – that’s 17% more than in 2007. These are some of the examples that show we’re on the right track, using a strategy of long-term promotions and goals. What has performance been like in the UK? The UK has always been an extremely high-priority market and the number of British visitors has grown each year. Between 2003 and 2008, there has been an increase of 31% and last year more than 180 thousand British flew to our shores. We want British tourists to come back to Brasil to discover new destinations, and research indicates that 94.7% plan to return. First came the World Cup and, Rio was awarded the 2016 Olympics. What do you think we can expect, in terms of benefits for the tourism sector?
We’re looking at several years of investment ahead, in infrastructure, transport, environment, training and urban renovation. But perhaps the greatest legacy of these two international events will be the impression of Brasil that we leave on the world. Today, holding the World Cup and the Olympic Games could transform the cities, and give a boost to tourism and other sectors of the economy. How will the challenges to meet the standards of excellence expected from events on this scale be administered? The Ministry of Tourism is already working together with the host cities to identify the main challenges and overcome them in time to receive the visitors coming to Brasil from all over the world for the two events. But it’s worth pointing out that Brasil already has good infrastructure, successful construction projects and services. Before 1992, Barcelona was an industrial city with little attraction for foreign visitors. After the Olympics, it became one of the most attractive tourist destinations in the world, with a renovated port, massive urban regeneration and, over all, the recuperation of the city and residents’ self-esteem. A lot of people in England celebrated the choice of Rio de Janeiro not just because they like Brasil, but also because it set a precedent, and England might able to hold the 2018 World Cup. Are there any official cooperation agreements set up between the two countries? We’ve been in close contact with Visit Britain to exchange experiences and there’s a lot of interest in what will and has been done. We don’t just want to get tips from the London Olympics, we also hope to contribute with information about our experiences in the 2014 World Cup. 2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 19
that very first caipirinha on a hot day with your feet in the sand, the sunset in fernando de noronha, the epic view across rio... Those are moments to be treasured forever. and solely to inspire you, we asked a team of well-seasoned travellers to share their long-lasting memories with us in order to make your next trip to brasil truly unique
Samba conversion
in Salvador
Childhood in Devon was all about picking blackberries from hedgerows, log fires in winter and walking dogs in the woods – shimmying was rarely a part of the routine! That all changed when I started promoting Latin music, but it wasn’t until a friend whisked me away to the heat and splendour of Salvador that my love miles affair withof samba began. Soon enough we were with more than 4.5 thousand coastline to choosesweating from,our just youand start? arses where off dancingdo in clubs in the streets, I’ve never been We’ve asked those insothe know tosotell so tested, happy, so fit and high. us The magic and mythology captured where to find me the best beaches in and Brasil. and the infectious rhythms smiles of its people got me moving in ways that even I didn’t know I knew how! Amazingly in London, this feeling returns when I hear a bateria and see the people loosening themselves in the dance, bringing back memories of an unforgettable place where I was so incredibly wild and free. Lou Forster, development manager London School of Samba (londonschoolofsamba.co.uk)
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 21 picture by deni baptista
cover feature
Following Sampa’s graffiti trail
The best caipirinha ever
São Paulo’s street art scene is one of the most vibrant and authentic in the entire world. Whenever we visit we are always blown away by the ever-changing array of creativity that is so juxtaposed with the urban landscape. When travelling into town from the airport we always look out for the beautiful blue water-inspired works by Zezão in the man-made waterflow systems that run along the side of the highway. And we never miss a trip to the Liberdade district, rich in Japanese culture, to see the stunning work adorning its walls by the globally-renowned Titi Freak. But one of the most beautiful pieces we have ever seen has to be by the talented and hugely emotive Tinho: ethereal images of children asking not to be forgotten, painted on the walls of a derelict house in a suburb of São Paulo. Always look, and you will find something beautiful and unexpected. Olivia Connelly, art dealer and consultant (oliviaconnelly.com) & Tristan Manco, author of Graffiti Brasil (tristanmanco.com)
in Fortaleza
We were in Fortaleza, Ceará, for a 2 weeks’ holiday. Dad spotted this shack on the beach and thought it’d be a great place to have lunch. It was right on the sand, surrounded by fishing nets, flies and stray dogs. We ordered some fish with a name we’d never heard of before and prayed for the best. It was delicious! The 3 brothers were just old enough to be allowed the odd sip of caipirinha so dad ordered a couple for all to share. As it turned out, capirinha at this place was more like cracking cold alcoholic slush puppy! It was made by chucking cubes of very strong lemonade in a blender with cachaça and sugar. The one communal glass was definitely not enough. I don’t actually remember getting back to the car or how we got to the hotel. But I can still remember that caipirinha to this day. Nando Cuca, designer and food video blogger (cucabrazuca.com)
Hiking in
Chapada Diamantina Chapada Diamantina first made an impression on me back in the summer of 1995, as a place where I saw some of the most beautiful scenery in Brasil, made up of impressive table-shaped mountains. Every time I go back there I discover new things, like the Fumaça waterfall, the highest falls in the country at 11,000 feet, the Pratinha grotto with a river running inside it, or the Poço Azul and Encantado, amazing caves with internal turquoise lagoons. My most incredible experience was trekking in the Pati valley, where, as well as the sheer natural beauty, the local residents were overjoyed to receive us in their homes, with delicious meals to help us recover our energies at the end of a day’s walking. It really is an unforgettable destination for nature lovers and walkers. Douglas Simões, Venturas & Aventuras tour operator (venturas.com.br)
22 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010 picture by ricardo rollo
Breathtaking views
in rio de janeiro
When I first went to Rio, I was 18 and at the end of a road trip all the way down the coast from Manaus. I’d been wanting to visit Brasil since I was a child, and one of the first things I wanted to do was to see Sugarloaf Mountain. But somehow, in my fantasies, I hadn’t realised you had to get a cable car up there – and I’m terrified of heights. Halfway there, dangling in a box on a wire, thousands of feet up, I was so scared I could only look at the floor and I missed most of the view. Once we were actually up on Sugarloaf, with the monkeys leaping around, and watching the incredible sunset over Rio de Janeiro, it seemed worth it. And by the time we left it was completely dark, so I couldn’t see how far off the ground we were anyway! Ana Naomi, cultural editor of JungleDrums magazine (jungledrumsonline.com)
nursing hangovers
on Boipeba island
Last year while I was studying music percussion just after the carnival, I decided to have a 5-day break on Boipeba island, an amazing tiny pearl in the Atlantic Ocean. It turned out to be the ideal spot for a relaxing holiday away from the hustle and frenetic lifestyle of Salvador, an authentic fishing village with transparent waters, mangroves, and plenty of peace and quiet on its deserted sandy beaches. I normally started the day with a delicious breakfast in the company of humming birds before setting off for a long walk, then boat trips or excursions in the beautiful Atlantic rainforest – including an unexpected encounter with a massive boa snake. The food was superb, mainly based on fresh fish, lobster and moqueca stews served by the beach. What more could you want? Vince Vella, musical producer, working recently with Gilles Peterson and Roberto Fonseca on Havana Cultura.
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 23 picture by Rafael Alvez
cover feature
Precious hidden
cachaças in Paraty I’d take a bet that if paradise really exists you’ll find it on one of the hidden beaches tucked away in isolated coves near Paraty. You’ll spy many of these hidden gems if you take a boat to foodie heaven, EhLahô, perched on a Bond-esque island of chalky grey boulders rising from the sea. The restaurant is open to both the elements and the stunning views back to land, and served us up a memorable feast on the water’s edge. It was down a near-vertical track that we bounced to visit Maria Izabel, who’s been distilling her own artisan cachaça at her seaside farm for a decade. The sugar cane is harvested from the immediate area and the resulting drink takes on a subtle saltiness from the ocean. Very little of her wonderful spirit ever travels further than the short hop to local bars and restaurants, but one treasured bottle did make it back to the UK in our suitcase... Lucy Harwood, marketing manager of Las Iguanas restaurants (iguanas.co.uk)
New Year’s Eve
on Morro de São Paulo My love affair with Morro de São Paulo island began with a New Year’s Eve party 14 years ago. I’d heard a lot about the celebrations, and then one day I finally decided to pack my bags and head off, alone, to discover this little paradise off the coast of Bahia. Arriving by boat at night on New Year’s Eve was a real adventure, and I have fond memories of a night filled with colours, smells and sounds; the buzz of the people walking around the town, the Segunda beach full of human warmth and people all dressed in white, the musicians who were playing out of shacks on the beaches, the amazing scenery – all of it was simply sensational, with a sunrise like a gift from the Gods! It was moments like this that made me fall in love with the most cosmopolitan island in Brasil, which I ended up making my home! Jamille Guimarães, lawyer and Morro blogger (morrodesaopaulo.com)
Sweaty basements
in Brasília
Fernando Gabeira MP once said that Brasília nightlife had nothing to offer but lobbyists, politicians and whores. He was wrong. It is also home to one of Brasil’s best musical scenes. Some months ago a journalist friend of mine invited me out to Clube do Choro, while I was there on work. That night maestro guitarist Turíbio Santos was playing his re-workings of Luiz Gonzaga and other northeastern composers. Tucked away in the basement of an Oscar Niemeyer building, Clube do Choro is one of the best places to hear live music in Brasil. Each week some of the country’s best young musicians take to its stage, alongside musical legends like Santos. For the duration of his show the packed audience hardly took their eyes of the stage, transfixed by his finger-work. I’ve looked in all my foreign guidebooks for a mention of the venue and the choro scene without success. It should be given a chapter of its own. Tom Phillips, The Guardian’s correspondent also produced Dancing with the Devil, a documentary film about Rio’s drug wars (dancingwiththedevilthemovie.com).
24 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 25
Everything you need in the heart of Ipanema beach.
Located in Ipanema, the most charming and sophisticated neighborhood of the city, Ipanema Plaza is just a few yards from the beach and at walking distance to Copacabana, offering a variety of business and leisure options, as well as easy access to the airports and financial centers. Just the right combination for a perfect stay. Rua Farme de Amoedo, 34 - Ipanema Rio de Janeiro - Brasil Tel.: 55 21 3687-2000 / 55 21 3528-6050 www.ipanemaplaza.com.br
Trancing away at
a Candomblé ceremony It was night time in Recife and the drumming pulsated around. I stood amidst a crowd twirling around, swiping the air with intense chanting at a Candomblé ceremony, an African-originated religious ritual that worships deities known as orixás. The acoustics transfused energy while the spirits of the orixás possessed many to let go of their inhibitions through drinking and cigar smoking. Some even adopted the fierce warrior-like personalities of the orixás, while others were caught up in a trance spinning around in traditional full, white skirts and headwraps with enthusiasm. Once suppressed by the Catholic church and the government, these ceremonies have now taken full swing throughout Brasil. Dazed in this intriguing celebration, an elderly man approached me, “Please offer something to the Orixás. I’ll give you some cachaça and cigars to place at their feet. Then come dance with us”. I obliged as the ceremony broke into the early hours of the morning. Sonia Shah, travel writer (soniashahventures.com)
Footvolleying on
Barra da Tijuca beach To play footvolley on the beaches of RJ is like playing cricket at Lords or tennis at Wimbledon; there is simply nowhere better. In fact the court on which we played on Barra da Tijuca beach every day for six months was known by its resident players as the Maracanã. As a gringo playing a sport that was born on these beaches, little is expected of you and to get on the court without a bet is tough, but we were gradually accepted by the community. We could hold our own on the court, in the bar, but never on the dance floor. Barra will also play host to much of the 2016 Olympics and will provide a beautiful, friendly and energetic backdrop to South America’s first Games. Footvolley is vying to be there as a demonstration sport to showcase Rio’s hottest export in its natural environment. Jimmy Greenwood, athlete UK Footvolley Association (footvolley.co.uk)
Touring Belém’s
music scene
On my first weekend in Belém in 2004 they were having a music party in Algodoal, so we piled into a van and drove the next morning for three hours and took a boat to the island. There are windswept beaches and lots of anteaters and ocelots. It’s only in the last few years they have got electricity and there used to be only one phone box on the island where 2,000 or so people live. That night the godfathers of Amazon surf music were playing – the Mestres Da Guitarrada. The music is a strange throwback to the sixties – to Dick Dale, the Ventures, the Shadows given a Brasilian swing. Aldo Sena threw in some nifty guitar moves much to the delight of the crowd, dancing on the sand with the tropical stars about acting as a light-show. These guys, now middle-aged, developed the form which has now been taken up by a younger generation from Belém like Pio Lobato, La Pupuña and others. Amazon Surf music: count me in. Peter Culshaw, music journalist (theartsdesk.com)
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 27 picture by alex robinson
320 days of sunshine per year and 29° C … day, after day, after day.
beach – dolce far niente – beauty & massage – signature food & drinks kite – windsurf – horse, buggy & quad excursions – 4x4 offroad adventures Rua da Igreja
Jericoacoara
Ceará Brasil
Tel +55 88 99099 135
www.chilibeach.com
flea market hunting
in São Paulo
I’m an outdoor-market junkie, particularly for antique fairs. In São Paulo, weekends are packed with markets all over the city, an opportunity to pick up not only weird and wacky tchoktes that I can only find there, but huge social events with beer and friends. My favourite market is Benedito Calixto in Pinheiros, where I go to peruse used vinyl records and also pick up old chandelier gems to incorporate into my side jewellery line, Sisu. Bixiga on Sundays is also good for finding kitschy items. To mix it up, I’ll ask for friends to brunch with me at the market stalls at Liberdade, where you can get monster-size gyozas. The fair experience in São Paulo gives you a quick look into an aspect of Brasilian culture that you don’t always read about, and to me that’s what makes something unforgettable. Phuong-Cac Nguyen, author of Total São Paulo guide (totalspguide.com)
unmapped
villages in Ceará There are times in travel when you come across something which is so special that it literally takes your breath away. Maybe it was the sunshine after a week of rain; maybe it was the sweep of the bay with the swaying palm trees; maybe it was simply arriving after 20 miles of super potholed roads, but when we reached Pousada Água de Coco in Icaraizinho de Amontada, a place which doesn’t exist even on the best maps, we realised we had arrived in a truly special place. The three spacious wooden bungalows all face the sea, with designer bathrooms, terraces and hammocks for relaxing. Across the wooden slatted bridge is the restaurant, which serves up the most fabulous food. Put the two together and, whether you have come for the wonderful kitesurfing or just to relax, you definitely won’t want to move for a while. Alison McGowan, travel interpreter and marketing expert for Hidden Pousadas Brazil (hiddenpousadasbrazil.com)
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 29
cover feature
stadium frenzy at the Maracanã
Sunset
in Fernando de Noronha
The sun was already low in the sky when I managed to get away from my work at TV Golfinho, the local broadcaster. I had been living in Fernando de Noronha for six months, but I still couldn’t get over the amazing colours that appeared in the sky when the sun set over Porto beach. On that day, there was an extra surprise in store for me. As I was making way down to the port, I saw the silhouette of a fisherman, who was throwing his net from the shoreline. His children were saving all of the fish he caught, and throwing them back into the water. Their father had already fished enough for that evening. The simple and joyful life of that family from Noronha was even more beautiful under the sunset. Bruno Costa e Silva, author and photographer (brunobravo.carbonmade.com)
Forget over-priced tourist traps. At the world’s most famous football stadium the atmosphere is red hot. Before kick off, for the visit of São Paulo to face Flamengo, we haggle with the locals for knock off shirts, before blending in with the red-and-black-striped cariocas streaming into the glorious bowl. We’re instantly hit by huge waves of noise: simple, rhythmic chants – “Mengo! Mengo! Mengo!” – backed by infectious batucada-style samba drumming that you can’t help clapping and singing along to. With riot police briefly separating Flamengo’s humble fanatics from their wealthier fans; hundreds of caricatured flags flying; vendors calling out from behind enormous stacks of snacks; and Christ the Redeemer watching over the action from the sun-drenched Corcovado Mountain perch, this is Brasil at its rawest and most vibrant. The football wasn’t half bad either. Ben Rimmer, press officer for Far Out Recordings (faroutrecordings.com).
Feasting on Minas Gerais traditional cuisine
In every city I visit I’m on the lookout for restaurants that serve comida mineira, the food of Minas Gerais. The early colonists needed portable food for their journeys into the inhospitable interior, so Mineira cuisine is based on transportable expedition food. The foundation is feijão tropeiro − my favourite − consisting of black beans, manioc, bacon and eggs that accompanies a range of meats: vaca atolada (ox ribs in manioc sauce), dobradinha (a kind of tripe), moela de frango (chicken giblets), rabada com agrião (oxtail stew), costelinha com canjiquinha (pork chop in corn sauce) or linguiça (primitive sausage). They are served with steamed or boiled vegetables that the cowboys could easily get hold of − couve (finely cut salty kale), okra, pumpkin, cabbage or jiló, a cucumber-looking, bitter green whose tang goes well with meat. To break the monotony the cooks try different bean concoctions: molho de feijão com pimenta (beans in pepper sauce) or tutu de feijão (pureed beans with manioc). It all provided the energy boost expeditioners required after an active day’s gallop. John Malathronas, author of Brazil: Life, Blood, Soul and co-author of Michelin Guide to Rio
into the wild
deep in the amazon On my first time in the Amazon, I fished for piranha, swam with river dolphins, went looking for caymen – and loved every minute of it. But I still wanted more. So, I arranged with a local guide to spend my last night in the middle of the forest, as a lesson in survival. We ventured into the virgin forest with only a hammock each, a machete, and a tambaqui, a freshwater fish from the piranha family that can weight up to 30kg. We learnt how to make traps and use the forest respectfully as a source of nourishment. We made a fire and put the enormous fish on it, adding only salt. Tambaqui has to be grilled on an open fire so the layer of fat melts slowly and gives the firm and succulent flesh more flavour. I don’t know if it was exhaustion or the sheer magic of the setting - the darkness and the sounds of the forest are fascinating - but it was the best fish I’ve ever eaten in my whole life. Juliano Zappia, publisher of JungleDrums magazine (jungledrumsonline.com)
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 31
cover feature
Favela Jazz Nights in Rio
Not all taxi drivers are happy to take you to The Maze. Mine threw me out half-a-mile short of the venue. His last words as he screeched away into the night were “bonkers foreigners”. It’s a fair assumption. Heading into a favela at night is not generally wise but Tavares Bastos is different. Home to Tropa de Elite, the anti-narcotics special police force, it’s actually one of the safest places to pass a balmy Rio night which is why ex-war cameraman, documentary maker and general Rio character Bob Nadkarni decided to open his house to paying guests. The highlight of Bob’s ‘favela chic’ experience is The Maze live jazz night. The rhythm-laden, dance-soaked event is fast becoming an institution in the city’s alternative music scene. An eclectic mix of Brasilian and international musicians comprise the band, whose off-beat funky melodies bring brief respite from the hillside’s reverberating forró beat. Oliver Balch, author of Viva South America! (vivasouthamerica.com)
Buffalo riding
on Marajó island Even the police use buffaloes on Marajó. Criminals, I thought, don’t need a get away vehicle; just a swift pair of legs. My ride too was a lollop rather than a gallop out of the capital – Soure and into the forest. As we left, startled canary-winged parakeets skitted between the trees in raucous chorus and agoutis dashed across the path ahead. After an hour we reached a ranch house, set in fields pocked with lakes, whose waters were shrouded by the brilliant red and pink of hundreds of scarlet ibis and roseate spoonbills. Then we continued on through thicker forest. Half a mile later it opened onto a vast beach that shimmered in the hot, hazy sun and which extended into a narrow and long yellow strip. It was deserted. I climbed out of the saddle, stooped, dipped my hand in the water and brought it to my lips. The ocean was sweet. I realised with a jolt that this wasn’t the Atlantic. It was the Amazon. I was standing on the shore of an island the size of Denmark in the mouth of the world’s greatest river. Alex Robinson, photographer and travel writer (alexrobinsonphotography.co.uk)
Swimming with dolphins in Pipa
Swimming in Baía dos Golfinhos, or ‘Bay of Dolphins’ is one of my favourite memories of north-eastern Brasil. It’s near the beach village of Pipa, which is roughly halfway between Natal and João Pessoa. The beach is a spectacular huge sweeping bay surrounded by palm trees and with views of Natal’s famous sand-dunes in the distance. My friend and I had only been in the water a matter of minutes when two dolphins came whooshing past us. I had imagined we might see them in the distance, but here they were only a metre or so away. We spent most of the day bathing and watching countless dolphins living up to their playful reputation in the water - an experience I’ll never forget. Megan Parkinson, Journey Latin America tour operator (journeylatinamerica.co.uk)
32 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010 picture by João vianna
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Pousada Jeribá Rua do Ibama s/n - Jericoacoara - CE - Brazil Phone: 55 (88) 3669-2206 / 366 9-2096 e-mail: reservas@jeriba.com.br Skype: pousadajeriba
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2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 33
Spotting jaguars in the Pantanal
As our driver cut the engine it seemed like suddenly everything went silent. Sitting on the dirt track enveloped by the velvety darkness of the night sky it felt as if we were all holding our breath. And then all of a sudden we saw her, the flashlight landing on the wild jaguar’s distinctive black and gold spotted coat. Then with a movement so swift that if you’d blinked you’d have missed it the cat slinked off into the night - with nothing but a single glance at us over her shoulder. One moment she was there, the next she was gone, leaving us with a magical sense of elation. You might think we must have been lucky to see a jaguar like this, and it’s true that sightings are not an every day occurrence - but the Pantanal offers the best chance you’re going to get of seeing one of these amazing animals in the wild. Rachel Robinson, Dragoman tour operator (dragoman.com)
Clubbing in and
around Florianópolis One of my favourite moments in Santa Catarina was the time that we introduced a visiting friend to some seriously good Carnaval weekend clubbing. He’d seen one sunrise out of the Atlantic from the balcony at Warung in the morning and we’d made him carry on to Parador P12 for the next night and into the dawn again. Both clubs look out onto beautiful beaches, and dawn is a magical time as the colours of the sky, the sand and the sea emerge from out of the misty grey of first light. After losing him in the club for an hour or two, he found us all dancing on the stairs looking out over the pool as the sun came over the headland, lighting up Jurerê beach behind. His head was shaking as he came towards us, looking like a man who’d had his wallet stolen. We asked him what was wrong. He waved an arm around. “How am I ever going to leave this?” Adam Hirst, editor of Go Floripa (gofloripa.com)
34 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
getting across guanabara Bay
Niterói’s beautiful ocean beaches remain largely unknown to foreign visitors - despite being just over an hour away from downtown Rio. Most tourists flock to Copacabana or Ipanema but those crossing Guanabara Bay can find other amazing sights with equally stunning landscapes. The Alto Mourão hill towers over Itacoatiara beach while nature’s force is also visible in the crashing waves so loved by surfers below. There is a path up to the 412-metre high peak and those adventurous enough are rewarded with glorious views of Niterói’s lakes and beaches. The huge rock was known as the “fake Sugar Loaf” as sailors would confuse the landmark with the other more famous peak marking the entrance to Guanabara Bay. This mountain is actually 16 metres higher than its Rio rival but far less well known. Those making the short trip soon discover that it leads to a jewel of its own. Ian Morris, Hereford Times news editor
picture by fox do iguaçú c&vb
picture by alex robinson
cover feature
Carrying logs in
fiesta not siesta…
isolated Amazon tribes Filming the documentary Last Man Standing I was privileged to visit some of the most remote tribes on Earth, learning and competing in their indigenous sports and living and breathing exactly as they did. The Kraho Indians, with their long hair and short fringes, distinctly bulging collar-bones and handsome features, were a people I can still clearly picture in my mind. I remember when we were introduced to their sport: running at speed with a 120kg log resting on your shoulder! I was so in awe that I just stood there in shock and humble disbelief. I recall the hushed excitement, the sound of heavy feet and the cloud of dust as a band of tribesmen came whipping into the village carrying these logs on their shoulders as if they were light back-packs. And the absolute fear with which I allowed 4 of my fellow athletes to lift one log onto my shoulder to ‘have a go’, feeling at any moment as if my back would break. People can do amazing things, and in my experience, the more amazing these things are, usually the more humble are the people who can do them. Such were the Krahos. Rajko Radovic, BBC’s Last Man Standing contestant, singer-songwriter and fitness guru (rajko.tv)
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parintins
amazon
Spectacle words by Carlos eduardo oliveira photos by Luciane Moral
on the small island of Parintins a folkloric festival brings the forest alive with a carnivalesque enactment of local legends and powerful beats in the heart of the Amazon
36 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
A
fter an hour-long flight from Manaus, I realised I had truly arrived at the heart of the Amazon. As I came through the tiny and tumultuous Parintins airport, I came across an enormous green toad in the baggage reclaim area. During the month of June, summer in the Amazon, the flights to this small river island are all overcrowded, with reservations made months in advance. This is due to the Parintins Folklore Festival that, for many decades, has been the pride of the local population, but that only in the 90s received the same glossy production as seen at Rio de Janeiro carnival. When the festival begins, the island’s population of 100,000 inhabitants doubles in size and an influx of thousands of boats from all over the Amazon arrive here, from simple fishing boats to luxury cruisers. Depending on the size of the boat, it takes up to a week to arrive – from Manaus, for example it can takes between two and three days. They only have one factor in common: all arrive crammed with people that lend a special colour to the port and decorate the fringes of the city. all the fun of the fair During the day, Parintins simmers. It’s very hot, humid, the streets are bustling, and the songs of the two protagonist groups of the festival, Caprichoso, the blue ox, and Garantido, the red ox, play loudly across all corners of the city (see box). The distances across the city are small, and most places can be seen on foot, or aboard the rickshaws that dominate the roads. My destination was the ‘pen’ (headquarters) of Ox Garantido, where I attended the Red’s final rehearsals. There, the participants sang and danced whilst dozens of seamstresses put final touches on the costumes. There was excitement all round and the jibes for their rivals were good-humoured. If this was what the rehearsal was like, I began to imagine what the night would bring. Whilst waiting for the festival to start, I decided to explore Parintins a bit more
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 37
parintins
38 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
bull fight: two groups compete for the crown of the amazon
ox in a box
Although it has the scale and characteristics of a carnival, the Parintins Festival has its origins in folklore traditions and the re-enactment of Boi-Bumbá, a popular tale in the North of Brasil. It tells the story of a farmer who kills his master’s prized ox to satisfy the cravings of his pregnant wife, only to be found and threatened with death if he fails to resurrect the animal before midnight. In Parintins the story is influenced by its environment, as the couple turn to diverse divine authorities, including a shaman to invoke the Amazon’s Goddess of Fertility. Two groups compete for the best re-enactment of the story, judged in diverse categories by a jury, each one supported with fanatic cheers, a scene reminiscent of a football stadium. During the festival, the two team colours, blue and red, dominate the decoration of Parintins, something which brought Coca Cola to make an unprecedented concession and produce cans and merchandising in blue.
and discover what its gastronomy had to offer. The busy Municipal Market is an unmissable sight, as are the many bars and restaurants. The stalls serve exotic regional food such as fried plantain, pirarucu de casaca (shredded oven fish), tacacá (shrimp broth) and sanduíche de tucumã (sliced palm-fruit). Anyone who wishes to by local handicraft can also find original gifts here in the many little shops spread across the centre of the city. The end of the afternoon is toasted with a refreshing cold beer or drink by the Solimões River. People frantically fight over the kiosks situated along the sea front, as everyone wants to witness the beautiful scene of the sun setting from behind the forest. ox-tales Caprichoso and Garantido appeared in 1913. In the early years, the two groups acted out simple parades through the streets, with the main focus on the drumbeats and melodies of songs that narrated the folklore tale of Boi-Bumbá. Although there was always a strong sense of rivalry between them, it wasn’t until the 80s that the two groups became distinct teams. The decisive step that led to the current scale of the event was the construction of the Bumbódromo in 1988, an arena that holds up to 35,000 spectators. At nine o’clock exactly, the festival begins. Fireworks announce the beginning of the show and the sight is simply enchanting. It’s as popular as an opera can get, grandiose proportions, put on by thousands of actors in multicoloured costumes (each ox team
top3
folk fests
1
Festas Juninas
2
Festa do Divino
Caruaru and Campina Grande
A nationwide celebration of all things rural to the sound of forró. It gets a grandiose treatment in these two backland towns in the Northeast region.
Pirenópolis
Three-week long catholic celebration of Pentecost, culminating with the cavalhadas, theatrical battles between Christians and Moors on horseback.
3
Oktoberfest Blumenau
Ok, not so much of a homemade invention, but in the heavily influenced German south this party is second only to Munich.
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 39
is made up of 3.5 thousand participants) and floats nearly 20 metres high, adorned with fantastic puppets inspired by ancient Amazonian myths and legends. The music, impossible to ignore, is performed by hundreds of percussionists and singers that stir the crowds. In contrast to the Rio de Janeiro samba schools, which parade down one avenue, each group circles the arena, entering and exiting the stage various times. The experience is intense with a touch of the surreal, and so successful that Parintins now ‘exports’ some of the talents from each of the two teams to the big samba schools in the south of the country. The festival lasts three days and each team has three hours each day to demonstrate its force. The winner is the group scoring the most points in 22 categories, including Master of Ceremonies, Song Leader, Cunhã-Poranga (the most beautiful muse) and the Indigenous Ritual (the long scene that closes the show). Another major difference is that here, the cheers from the audience form part of the show and can earn points for each ox. Whilst the red mass shakes and dances performing as its ox, the blues watch, in total silence, and vice versa. If any side disrupts their adversary , they lose points. Today, Parintins is an international event. That’s how I met 36-year old Jerry Parker, from Boston, USA. Wearing the red shirt of Garantido, he told me this was his sixth time at the festival. I asked him where this passion for this festival came from. ‘Because this is pure magic’, he quickly fired back. And why Garantido? He stopped without urge and pointed towards the red crowd partying on the terrace. ‘Look at them. Do I need to explain?’
explorer parintins
brought to you by footprint
travel guides
how to
get there Flights from Manaus (1 ¼ hrs) Belém, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, São Paulo (Congonhas) and Santarém (1hr 20mins) with TRIP (voetrip. com.br) from Manaus with TAM (tam.com.br). Boats call on the Belém-Manaus route: 60 hrs to Belém (depending on boat and if going up or down the river), 10-26 passengers. A boat to Santarém takes 20 hrs. Ajato Navegações (Rua Bares 3, Manaus, tel (+55 92) 3622 6047) operate 65 seater speedboats that take 9 hours to reach Parintins from Manaus or two hours from Santarém and cost around £50 one way.
when to go The festival is perhaps the most vibrant after Carnaval and draws tens of thousands of visitors to Parintins on the last three days of June each year. In the dry season (Jun-Oct), boat trips run to the river beaches and to nearby lakes.
where
to stay Since the town has only a handful of hotels, finding a room can be a challenge. The best is the Amazon River, with multi-day packages over the festival; easily booked through operators like Journey Latin America (journeylatinamerica.co.uk) or in Gero Tours in Manaus (amazongerotours.com). Most people sleep in hammocks on the boats that bring them (a large vessel will charge about US$180 per person, including breakfast, for the duration.
Find out more about
parintins and other destinations in the new Footprint Brazil. Out now
headdress to impress: the festivities explode in a climax of colour
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 41
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Maputo
Icuaçú Falls
Wonder
falls words by Gabriel Silvestre photos by Emilene Zitkus
The Iguaçú Falls are one of South America’s travel icons - but in the surrounding national parks there is more to the region than just water
44 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
the sheer force of the falls draws awe and wonder from both sides
i
n the rivalry over the Iguaçú Falls, a local saying has it that Brasil once again comes up trumps over Argentina. From almost 300 falls along the wide gorge marking the border between the two countries, 70% are on Argentinean territory. But the Brasilians claim that although outclassed in quantity, they win in quality – offering the best views of all. After Rio de Janeiro, Iguaçú Falls is the second most visited region in Brasil. Frontier regions are normally places for brief, fleeting experiences and here, of course, everyone is on their way to somewhere else. But from backpackers ticking off countries on their checklist, to groups of tourists struggling with the heat, or Brasilians and Argentineans after a bargain in nearby Paraguay, no one escapes the feeling of insignificance when they walk down the long platform that takes them face to face with the Devil’s Throat. The falls are not the only reason to visit the region, however. The parks that encircle them on both sides, alongside Parque das Aves bird sanctuary down the road, are oases of wildlife, and the worst thing you could do would be to cut short your time here. Both the Brasilian and Argentinean parks are enormous, and you can easily spend a whole day at each, especially if you want to explore the walking paths or try the speed-boats. If the Brasilian side offers a chance for contemplation, the Argentinean side offers a more intimate experience. That’s because the landscape is more jagged, and there are paths, zig-zagging up and down from hidden falls to diving pools like the waters of San Martín Island. This, as any Argentinean will tell you, is a much richer experience. After seeing both sides of the coin, it’s difficult to know who’s right. Perhaps it depends what language sounds sweeter to you, Portuguese or Spanish.
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 45
Icuaçú Falls
Common wealth
The falls decorate part of the southern border of Brasil and Argentina, with the two neighbours splitting their share in two impressive national parks
2 National Parks
one in each country
275 falls
68 species of mammal
865 sq miles of protected rainforest
422 species of bird
The Falls in numbers
46 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
the views Brasil and Argentina both claim to have the best views and it’s difficult to judge who’s right as they have different experiences to offer. The Argentinean side has a better variety of viewing platforms that allow you to get up close, but the main attraction, the Devil’s Throat, is best viewed in all its glory from the Brasilian side. The Argentinean trump card is San Martín Island, where you can swim in the waters of the River Iguaçú, and enjoy a spectacular and unique view from below.
Other activities As well as the speeds boats and forest trails, you can also try a ‘Go Ape’ experience, abseiling and rafting on the Brasilian side, all of which have adapted activities for the disabled. For an extra-privileged view, helicopter trips are also available.
Full Moon Both parks offer special packages during full-moon nights, when they stay open after dark for guided tours in small groups, offering traditional meals with a view of the falls.
Walkways and trails Boat trips If you’re not content with the proximity offered by the viewing platforms, you can pay for a speed-boat trip to take you against the strong current and close to the falls. In any case, the tours offered in both the Brasilian and Argentina parks include jeep tours and a visit to waterfalls.
The Brasilian park has better accessibility with a panoramic elevator lift and platforms with fewer steps and inclines, but with more than two miles of pathways, the Argentinean side has more variation. Then again, only Brasil has the Poço Preto trail, with five miles of hike and bike paths through the forest, plus bird watching and kayaking in the tranquil section of the River Iguaçú.
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 47
Icuaçú Falls
The
Wildlife
The Falls are undoubtedly the star of the show but the wildlife of the national parks surrounding them can be equally fascinating
M
the surrounding rain forest is home to a rich variety of wildlife
ost people visiting the waterfalls are attracted by the image of people the size of ants on what seem to be fragile platforms, admiring the force of the hundreds of falls in their horse-shoe formation as they cascade into the River Iguaçú. What few know is that the surrounding forest and its rich variety of wildlife are reason enough for a visit. Crammed into the border between Brasil and Argentina, the falls divide two national parks which heave with humid, tropical forest – as you can tell from the swarms of mosquitoes around. Along the route from the platforms to the falls, bold Brasilian aardvarks scuttle across the paths, after crumbs of food and, incredibly, it is the smell of human sweat that attracts some 300 local species of butterfly. Other mammals, reptiles and birds also call the park home, but to find them you’ll have to venture into the forest. The Poço Preto trail on the Brasilian side of the falls is a 5.5 mile-long trail which you can walk or cycle through the forest, towards the upper part of the River Iguaçú. Along the way, it’s usual to see tapirs, deer, howler monkeys and, at the end, a cayman-infested lake, above which stand an observation tower from which you can cast your eyes on some of the many, beautiful species of bird. Jaguars also inhabit the area, but their stealth and nocturnal route means they’re difficult to spot during the park’s opening hours. Beyond the borders of the national parks, within a few metres of the entrance, the Parque das Aves bird park is a paradise for lazy bird-watchers. In 42 acres of land, there are some 900 birds from 150 species housed in walkin aviaries, after being rescued from traffickers, where toucans and macaws fly above the heads of visitors. Far away from the Amazon and Pantanal, Iguaçú is a compact region offering surprisingly rich wildlife.
More
info
cataratasdoiguacu.com.br iguazuargentina.com parquedasaves.com.br Wildlife Guide Brazil John Malathronas New Holland Publishers
48 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
The Frontier
Towns
The Iguaçú Falls form part of the path of travellers en route to Brasil, Argentina or Paraguay but its porous frontiers have put the area in the White House's 'War on Terror' blacklist.
T
he creation of the national parks and the recognition of Iguaçu by UNESCO as a national heritage site were fundamental to the preservation of the falls, and today the scenery remains similar to that chanced upon by Spanish explorer Álvaro Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541, the first Westerner to lay eyes on them. The frontier cities in Brasil, Argentina and Paraguay, however, have transformed radically, mostly over the last 40 years. After tourism, the main reason for Brasilians and Argentineans to visit the region are the shops in de Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, where they can take advantage of the low taxes on imported goods. The border region is notorious for the smuggling of goods, weapons and drugs, but it was the presence of a large Arab community in the Brasilian city of Foz do Iguaçú that led the Bush administration to classify it as a region in which ‘terrorist activities are suspected to take place’. The employment of an American taskforce never actually took place however, much to the relief of local authorities who were outraged with the accusations, and are proud of the good relations between their communities. The urban chaos of Ciudad del Este contrasts with the tranquillity of Puerto Iguazú in Argentina, a small, slow-paced rural town with rustic charm. The choice of accommodation is limited and simple, but the tender meat and delicious red wines of Mendoza’s restaurants are reason enough to stop off here. Foz de Iguaçú is a thriving city with modern buildings that underwent a population boom in the 70’s following the construction of the Itaipú Dam, which at one point employed 40 thousand workers. Although not such an attractive city for visitors, it has the best variety of accommodation for those visiting the falls.
explorer Iguaçú Falls
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how to
get there Foz do Iguaçu’s airport is 12 km from the town centre and receives flights from Belém, Brasília, Curitiba, Manaus, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Buses to the falls leave from the central bus station every half an hour 0530-2330 (40 mins). Return buses run 0800-1900. Many hotels organise tours to the falls, which have been recommended in preference to taxi rides.
when to go Summer (Oct-Mar) tends to be warm and dry; winter (Apr-Sep) is cool and wet. November is best for Iguacu, when the falls are fullest. The busiest times are holiday periods and on Sunday, when helicopter tours are particularly popular.
where
to stay The newly reformed Hotel Tropical das Cataratas (hoteldascataratas.com.br): directly overlooking the falls, is the only hotel within the park. A mock-belle-epoque building with large rooms – some with wonderful views and a poolside garden. The latter is visited by numerous birds, butterflies and small mammals. Foz Presidente I & II (fozpresidentehoteis. com.br) are among the best of a poor lot in the city centre. Paudimar Falls (www.paudimarfalls.com.br ) and Pousada da Laura (045 3572 3374 or www.hostelsclub.com) are the best of the hostels, with facilities and good breakfast. Both are good places to meet other travellers.
Find out more about
Iguaçú Falls and other destinations in the new Footprint Brazil out now 2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 51
Different traditions live side by side where the borders meet
itacarĂŠ
sustained
Paradise words by Fola Odumosu photos by joĂŁo vianna
52 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
Colours and wildlife bursts out wherever you look
Itacaré’s simple charms and natural assets have transformed a once sleepy fishing village into a hot destination. Fola Odumosu finds out how local businesses are working to preserve it.
W
hen you ask a Baiano about Itacaré you are met with a wistful and distant longing in their eyes and a big smile. Having witnessed the picturesque paradise first hand, I can finally see why. Cradled by the lush green forestry of the Atlantic Rainforest and renowned for its production in cocoa, Itacaré is a small village south of Salvador, on the Bahia coast. This spectacular landscape boasts
waterfalls and over 15 glorious beaches and its highly preserved ecosystem and sustainable credentials have made it a focal point of the country’s boom in eco tourism. My journey began in the main city of Ilhéus, where the pace of life was welcomingly slower in comparison to the high energy of Salvador. A coach from the main bus station to Itacaré takes you there in just over two hours. It was a tranquil
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 53
itacaré
ascent into Bahia’s rural interior where homes constructed amongst the dense forestry and jaw-dropping views of the ocean provide a visual treat. the conscientious Tourist The antiquated feel of Itacaré’s historical centre contrasts with the numerous shops, modern bars and restaurants, that have been introduced as part of the wave of new development and investment over the last five years. Just off the main street, a community of pousadas accommodate the thousands of visitors that flock to the region. Vira Canoa, where I stayed, was a delightful gem. Its bamboo structure has been deliberately constructed in harmony with the island’s vegetation. Everywhere is filled with light and the smell of greenery. An inside/outside ’zen’ space with a combined lounge and bar area opens out onto palm tree-lined gardens. Vira Canoa is one of many local businesses that are part of the Carbon Free Tourism Programme set up to protect the area, whereby companies pay for seedlings planted to offset their footprints. The money goes to the Social Carbon Fund to support environmental conservation, human development and advancement of the area. The pousada organised for a guide to give me a personal tour of all the special places that Itacaré had to offer. To my surprise, Raí, was a 19 year old boy from the local area who knew the town and forestry like the back of his hand. His little anecdotes and recollections of the town’s landmarks gave a nice personal touch. One of the highlights was the original church of São Miguel built by the Jesuits at the beginning of the 18th century, where he and most of the towns inhabitants have
Bahia’s
top
deserted beaches
Itacaré is not the only Bahia top destination with deserted beaches, deep blue waters and laid back atmosphere. A few miles north, Corumbau is even quieter, a traditional fishing village with only a handful of place to say, whereas Trancoso, further south near Porto Seguro, is a more developed retreat with boutique pousadas. Praia do Forte around Salvador is the base of the Tamar Project, a successful environmental NGO protecting endangered sea turtles.
Trancoso
Corumbau
in a 20-min canoe ride across amazing quiet waters, i was lucky to spot dolphins and other unusual fish: these waters are said to be the origin of life. of course no paradise is complete without its beach
Praia do Forte been christened or married. Just opposite the church is a bay where fishing boats are moored. By day the water reaches just below street level but by night, when the tide has receded, you will often find the local children playing football on the sand. Natural Harmony Our first main stop on the tour was Concha beach. It was about 11am, still quiet and yet to be descended upon by tourists, so I had a chance to dip my toe in the emerald waters before moving on to Ribeira and Resende beaches. These were equally chilled spots where capoeira classes often take
54 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
place, usually organised through your pousada. There are lots of organised group trails through the forests, as well as visits to Itacarezinho - the eco-friendly sea turtle project on offer. There is warm weather all year round and in September, Brasil’s autumn, the weather was heavenly and hot, so trekking in the forest requires sun cream and insect repellent! But if you fancy just roving around the landscape you can rent a bicycle for the day from about £15. Raí was desperate to show me something special that wasn’t one of the obvious tour destinations. A little off the beaten track was the base for Casa do Boneco - a social project set up for
young people to engage with arts, culture and education and to help them excel in all aspects of their lives. I met the founder Jorge de Jesus, who organises shows for the young people to perform in the village and at many of the pousadas. He explained how this and his other project Quilombo do Oitizeiro were part of the efforts to continue to sustain the local community and encourage the preservation of the land. Jorge wanted to take me to a small island where he is building the equivalent of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant - what will be an addition to the tourist landscape and provide a catering training school for young locals, as well as a bar and restaurant for visitors to dine. This secret excursion also gave me a chance to see and cross the famous Rio de Contas river, which was integral to Itacaré’s role as a port in Bahia’s maritime history. In a 20-minute canoe ride across amazingly calm waters, I was lucky enough to spot dolphins and other unusual fish. These waters are said to be the origin of life. Of course, no paradise would be complete without its beaches, and for sun worshippers Itacaré has an abundance of these, adorned with coconut groves - still unspoilt and incredibly beautiful. Sandy beaches run around the coast, and the more deserted natural beaches of Jeribucaçu, Engenhoca, Tiririca and Prainha are favourites among surfers, where the stronger waters offer great waves. Itacaré is a tranquil, welcoming and breathtaking wonderland that has fostered the joyful and unapologetically laid back temperament of its people, who live in harmony with their natural surroundings. Its beauty as a holiday destination, is its somewhat split personality - by day a serene setting promises all the exoticism of Brasil’s interior with wildlife and vegetation, yet by night the bars and restaurants are full and vibrant with that characteristic Bahian party spirit, which is always up for the taking.
explorer itacaré
Brought to you by footprint
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how to
get there The bus station is a few minutes walk from town. There are at least four buses a day from Ilheus (one hour) whose airport receives flights from Salvador, São Paulo, Porto Seguro and Rio de Janeiro.
when to go Itacaré is very busy with local holiday makers in high season (Dec-Mar) but receives relatively few international visitors.
where
to stay Txai Resort (txai.com.br): The most comfortable hotel around Itacaré, set on a deserted beach with very spacious and tastefully decorated bungalows overlooking a long, deepblue pool. Pedra Bonita (itacarehostel.com.br). Pleasant little YHA hostel with small doubles and dorms in an annexe, a small pool, internet and TV area. Friendly staff.
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Itacaré and other destinations in the new Footprint Brazil out now 2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 55
dive in: itacaré's waters are perfect for splashing about
rio-santos
ON THE
ROAD words by Gabriel Silvestre photos by antonio lordĂŞlo
The BR101 between Rio and SĂŁo Paulo is the most scenic highways in Brasil, a 300-mile sneaky drive punctuated by rainforests, surfing waters and deserted beaches
56 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
G
etting a carioca and a paulista to agree on anything can be a difficult task, and residents of the two cities are forever exchanging jibes. Rather than taking sides, it is better to embrace one of the few things both cities manage to agree on: the beauty of the vast expanses of sand and sea that separate them. The BR101 highway, leading from Rio de Janeiro to the port city of Santos, near São Paulo, is certainly one of Brasil’s most scenic drives. There are over 300 miles of road snaking along the coastline, opening the way to tropical islands, colonial villages and deserted beaches, as well as off-beaten tracks through the Atlantic rainforest. Although rarely explored by foreign tourists, it is not by chance that the towns scattered along the highway are popular summer destinations for the residents of both cities, who surrender to their unspoilt beauty, and highquality gastronomy. For those looking to escape Rio de Janeiro’s frantic urban pace, Angra dos Reis is the closest point of refuge. Although the city in itself is not so obviously appealing, its bay hosts over three hundred islands, including the gorgeous Ilha Grande, an ecotourism hotspot littered with exotic deserted beaches. Further ahead lie the cobblestone-paved streets and colonial architecture of Paraty, a historical city that hosts a prestigious annual international literary festival. Ubatuba is home to the largest concentration of beaches in the area, with over 60 miles of coastline and boasting beaches popular with families and surfers alike. São Sebastião is the final stop on the most beautiful stretch of the journey, leading to Ilhabela island and the hip beaches of Maresias and Camburi. Whilst most travellers tend to hop on the 45-minute flight from Rio to São Paulo and back-packers are confined to their chairs on a six hour bus ride, those in the know actually follow the coastline between the two cities, looking forward to the adventures that await them at each twist and turn. All you need is a set of wheels, a road map, a good soundtrack and your mozzie repellent - and you’re good to go!
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 57
rio-santos
explorer rio-santos highway
Brought to you by footprint
travel guides
how to
get there The BR-101 is paved all the way to Santos, which has good links to São Paulo. Buses from Rio run to Angra dos Reis, Paraty, Ubatuba, Caraguatatuba and São Sebastião. Fishing boats and ferries to Ilha Grande leave from Angra dos Reis and Mangaratiba. Ferries to Ilhabela run day and night and leave regularly from the São Sebastião waterfront.
when to go November-March are the warmest wettest months – with 36cm of rain on average in December and January and temperatures between 30 and 20ºC. In April and September the sea is still warm and there is less rain. May-August are the driest but coldest months with temperatures varying between 24 and 14ºC.
where
to stay Sítio do Lobo (sitiodolobo.com.br) in Ilha Grande is an architect-commissioned house converted into a small boutique hotel on an isolated peninsula with marvellous views. Pousada do Sandi (pousadadosandi.com.br) is the most comfortable in Paraty, in an 18th-Century building with a pool and superior breakfast. In Ubatuba, Recanto das Toninhas (toninhas.com. br) has elegant cabanas with sea views set around a pool while in Ilhabela, Barulho d’Agua (barulhodagua.com.br) offers very romantic cabins set in a rainforest next to a clear river.
Find out more about
rio-santos and other destinations in the new Footprint Brazil out now 2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 59
insider
tips by those who know
Once more with a smile As Simon Reeve resumes his travels along imaginary lines, he tells us all about the people, risks and memories he found along the way interviewed by Fernando Duarte and ben p. jones
Some might find it ironic that, for most of his childhood and teenage years, Simon Reeve never set foot outside of Britain. But his travels to the most forgotten corners of the earth were actually motivated by a deep interest in the daily challenges faced by people living off the radar of the developed world, which resulted not only in great TV (Reeve’s shows about the Tropic of Capricorn and the Equator, aired by the BBC, were a huge success), but also in one of the first alerts about the dawn of a new era of terrorism – The New Jackals, his book on Al-Qaeda, talked about a spectacular attack years before 9/11. Reeve’s trips have also taken him to Brasil and, as he tells Jungle Trips in this exclusive interview, the country made great impressions upon him.
60 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
When did you start travelling? I did a bit of travelling while working at the Sunday Times, but only when I was doing research into depressing subjects like arms smuggling, drug smuggling, and terrorism – there was a lot of smuggling going on… but I’d never been on a plane until then. What’s the motivation behind your journeys? It’s not been about the travel as much as about the stories and the people you meet. And about the knowledge, as ridiculous as it sounds, I like broadening my mind and finding things out. Why is life like this in Paraguay? In India? I want to know! Then you decided to try to cover as much ground as you could in the tropics series… The original idea was to have five trips that would cover all the circles, including the Arctic and the Antarctic, but the BBC pulled back because of the cost. Then it became about the Equator and the whole thing evolved into the Tropics. It has been an amazing journey of discovery. You also exposed yourself a lot. Were there any fears? Basically, there were loads of times when I thought things could get ugly in the beginning, but then you learn to see things from a different perspective. There is nowhere I wouldn’t go to. And nowhere I wouldn’t go back to. The main danger in these journeys isn’t terrorism or wild animals, but mundane things like dying in a traffic accident. Having said that, a BBC producer was shot dead in Somalia a few weeks after we had been there. Any particular close shaves? I nearly died of malaria in Gabon while filming Equator. That was quite tough and I did think the worst when the fever was quite high and my brains seemed to be melting. What can you say about Brasil? The country is almost entirely in the tropics, which brings benefits but also
curses. At the same time that it has a lot of natural resources, it has a very strong north-south division. A modern country can’t go on with these divisions, but Brasilians have a lot to be proud of. It is definitely one of the nations that will have a lot to say on the international stage in the 21st century and could play a very important role in the preservation of the environment. How do you behave in terms of interacting with locals in your travels? They are very intense experiences and I would be lying if I said they don’t affect me. I catch myself thinking of the people I met along the way, especially in the situations of bigger human drama, like the refugees in Congo. It can be quite overwhelming. You don’t have to be spectator but it is important to respect the lives people live.
there were loads of times when I thought things could get ugly. a BBC producer was shot dead in Somalia a few weeks after we'd been there.
Do you think your programs can help change things? I don’t think TV makes a big difference in terms of changing situations, but I am happy if the programs are at least raising the general level of awareness for problems around the world. It is important to spread knowledge. How do you deal with the culture shock? You learn to appreciate things at home. I don’t complain as much as I used to when it rains in Britain for example…
Tropic of Cancer will be shown by BBC in early 2010 shootandscribble.com
top3 simon travels
Simon Reeve has presented five documentary series for the BBC. These are our favourites:
Tropic of Capricorn (2008)
The Latin America leg of the journey transcended the Atacama Desert and the Iguaçú falls. finishing on the Brasilian coast – a route of unrivalled beauty. A series involving ten countries, 5 deserts and 1 giant mountain range represented the biggest challenge to date for Reeve.
Equator (2006)
An intense journey through the hot and humid parts of the globe, this series jumped from one country to the next without barely time to breathe. Discovering whether water drains the opposite way in the southern hemisphere was just one of the many highlights.
Places that don’t exist (2005) A topic that no other had explored, Reeve delved into the murky world of failed states, nations that don’t exist and those that should. Did you know that Somaliland (a region that is not a nation state) operates under greater control and democracy than Somalia itself?
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 61
insider
Beauty and the urban Beast Two new offerings reveal the secrets of são paulo, from cult hang-outs to hidden street art. words by ana naomi
Love me, love me not, are the first words of Total São Paulo: A Guide to the Unexpected – but ultimately the idea is that, like it or not, love it you will. Total São Paulo is a funky and offbeat travel book brimming with hidden gems from a city which, if you give it a chance, can be as enticing and exciting as it is gigantic and gritty. Written by American journalist PC Nguyen, a long-time Sampa resident, the book is peppered with quirky anecdotes and testimonies from interesting Paulistas – from a 23 yearold prostitute to a pão de queijo baker – all designed to help you discover the heart and soul of this urban giant. There’s an emphasis on the eccentric and the underground, but there is a common thread uniting all of the highlights in Total São Paulo from street art to strip bars, trendy boutiques to tattoo parlours: if it’s at all cool, there’s a good chance it’s in here. In both its trendy collage-style and its dedication to the alternative sights of the
62 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
city, the Total guide has a lot in common with the European LeCool publications, and will certainly appeal to younger, bolder visitors to São Paulo. If you like the idea of the Total guide, you might also enjoy this little gem; there is now also a similarly cool and alternative service, Soul Sampa, (soulsampa.com) - an agency that prepares tailored trips for creative individuals professionals. They offer three types of tour; a cultural overview of São Paulo; thematic options, including street art and city gardens; and a personalised tour, which is prepared based on a interview with you!
top5 only in sp
PC Nguyen picks her choice of some of the coolest places to hang around in the sprawling metropolis:
1
Filial
2
Estúdio Manus
3
Rua Augusta
4
Bar do Museu
5
Ritz
Rua Fidalga, 254 - Vila Madalena
Busy, ‘60s-style boteco bar with caricatures of famous Brasilians lining the walls.
Rua Girassol, 310 - Vila Madalena
A lovely couple known for their esoteric porcelain pieces, and good furnitre.
Watch how the neighbourhood changes from Consolação/Rua Augusta to Jardins.
Avenida Ipiranga, 324, bl C - Centro
A hidden treasure, decorated from the old archives of the Museum of Modern Art.
total são paulo 175 pages unhinged jaw press www.totalspguide.com
Al. Franca, 1050 - Jardins
The best burgers in town. Dine among hot waiters and a stylish crowd.
Salvador
in
hours
Salvador is one of Brasil's most visited cities, drawing crowds to its Unesco-listed colonial architecture, beaches and strong African heritage, evident in the local cuisine, arts and music scene. Fola Odumosu takes us through the cobbled streets, and shows us how to spend 24 intense hours in the party capital of bahia words by Fola Odumosu
08:30am | Energise Head down to the beach at Farol de Barra early in the morning when it’s still quiet for an energising yoga workout in front of the calming ocean. Afterwards, enjoy a refreshing bowl of açaí, served with granola and fruit for breakfast from any of the cafes along the beachfront.
10:30am | Surf’s up Take an hour-long bus ride from the Barra district down to Itapuã. Besides being one of Salvador’s most picturesque beaches, the waves are stronger and ideal for surfing.
01:00pm | Lunch time For a healthy lunch, take a bus back to Pelourinho in the city centre and check out Ramma, Salvador’s top vegetarian restaurant. Like most lunch spots it’s a ‘by kilo’ buffet – delicious vegetarian food based on traditional Bahian dishes, like meat-free feijoada and acarajé.
04:00pm | Sightseeing Head across the square to Pelourinho’s Igreja São Francisco, one of Salvador’s most decadent churches, decorated in pure gold leaf. This is definitely worth seeing. Opening hours are between 8-12pm and 1-5pm. The city centre is also great for shopping, and all along Avenida Sete de Setembro you will find a long stretch of shops selling everything from clothes to jewellery at bargain prices.
07:00pm | Dinner and drinks Salvador is the centre of Afro-Brazilian culture and it’s a place where you can find many indigenous Africans living today. For a bit of African flavour visit Sankofa African Bar and Restaurant (Rua Frei Vincente, Pelourinho), where you can sample some traditional West African dishes and on Saturday get down to live bands and dj’s playing samba, reggae, African and funk music.
11:00pm | Party time The night is still young. Jump in a taxi to Rio Vermelho, known to be one of Salvador’s ‘bohemian’ districts, frequented by artists and musicians. Head to Borracharia (Rua Conselheiro Pedro Luís), a funky underground nightclub, where it’s all about the music. You will hear everything from pagode to rock, so expect to be dancing into the early hours of the morning.
04:00am | Bed time Watch the sun come up - and then get some rest!
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 63 pictures by embratur // kalaleia
insider
top3 books
Tuca Reinés’s best books with European publishers, Taschen
1
Great Escapes South America
360 pages, £12.99
Tuca’s first enterprise took him through Patagonia, the Andes and both Atlantic and Pacific to find the most stylish retreats.
Why Tuca Reinés is a very welcome trespasser in Bahia’s luxury homes words by Ana Naomi
How did you get into this kind of photography? I actually trained as an architect, but I’d always been interested in photography and would always take photographs for my own projects. When I had my
64 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
Living in Bahia
3
Bahia Style
200 pages, £17.99
Well connected to artists like Cateano Velloso, Tuca opens the door of Bahia’s exclusive houses, from treehouses to modern pads.
The mansion gatecrasher Anyone flicking through a book with pictures relating to Brasilian architecture, would have a fairly good chance of finding the name of Tuca Reinés. The photographer and architect from São Paulo is a big name in specialised Brasilian architectural literature, having authored five books and collaborated on some 22 more, worldwide. In particular, Tuca is becoming more associated with his love for the Northeast of Brasil, and specifically for the state of Bahia, whose architecture has been the source of inspiration behind two of his latest books, both published by Taschen. Currently working on a project about the legacy of Oscar Niemeyer, which also will be published by Taschen, Tuca took some time out to speak to Jungle Trips.
2
architecture practice, we kept on winning contracts because of the presentation and my photos – and eventually we had other practices and companies asking us to do their presentation for them. After that I spent time in Europe between 1981 and 1984, and then when I came back to Brasil I started working for Vogue, Wallpaper, Condé Nast. How did the Bahia projects come about? After discovering for myself what Bahia is all about, I decided to sell this “new Bahia” to an international publishing house. Taschen were hesitant because there had never been a book published about the state outside of Brasil - and they turned the project down. I didn’t want to give up on it, so together with some friends we decided to make a film, showing Bahia - and we made it into a DVD, and I sent it off to Taschen. Two months later they asked me to bring everything, all my material, back for them to look at; and then Living in Bahia was made, and now Bahia Style.
192 pages, £6.99
A lighter, textless photo book, focusing on the rustic details and décor of some of the finest homes along the coast.
My sales pitch was that back in the 60’s, when I was a surfer, no-one had heard of Bali. But Bali became known world-wide. Bahia Style is your second book on the Northeastern state. Why are you so attracted to it? Bahia is a part of Brasil where the culture is very apparent, very strong, and very rich. That’s very important, and it’s reflected in the architecture. In Brasil, we’ve spent so much time looking outwards for inspiration, and ignoring our own culture. When I go to a beach house, I don’t want to feel like I’m in Bali, I want to feel like I’m in Brasil. That’s really important to me! We have to design things that are suited to our climate, and to our culture. What’s your favouite part of Bahia? That’s easy – my favourite part is between Trancoso and Curumbau – the beaches are beautiful and there are indigenous reserves nearby. It’s the best part of Bahia.
Green Dreams come true photographer joão vianna talks about why he packed up and moved to an eco-village - and hasn't looked back words and photos by João Vianna
Being close to nature has also always warmed my soul, and that’s what led me to become a nature photographer. For years I’ve been travelling to some of the most beautiful places in Brasil, where I’ve found communities living completely at one with their environment, which provides sustainable sources of food, energy and construction material for them. I took a course in permaculture (ethical living), and I realised how many habits I still had to change in order to reduce my impact on the environment. So I decided to pack things up and move to an ecovillage, with my partner. The Piracanga Eco Village is located on the Maraú peninsula, within 50 hectares of Atlantic Forest. Thanks to expert knowledge and technology, creating a complex these days with renewable energy, ecological houses, organic plants and community centres was the least of the problems. The real challenge is putting people together in this environment, and
learning how to deal with, and respect our differences. We lead a simple way of life, rising early, eating healthily, and dedicating time to spirituality, and to teaching our children. We are able to see the “system” for what it is, and free ourselves from the conditioning and bad habits we’ve acquired, and to plan the way we live and the way we treat the environment around us, in a healthier and more constructive way. One of the principles of permaculture is to create connections between the elements. With our rubbish, for example, we separate food leftovers for making compost, which becomes a fertiliser for our plants, and comes back to our table as food. The waste water from the bathroom and kitchen goes to the banana plantations, which give us organic bananas. Transforming the “production line” into “productive cycles” is one of the ways we can deal efficiently with the leftovers from all parts of our homes.
In the Human Development Centre, we have events such as meditation and yoga, therapy, spiritual retreats and also events on sustainability. The centre is open to the public, who can take part as volunteers, or whilst staying here to see how an eco-village works. Almost half the community is made up of children. We try to get them involved in a range of social activities from a young age, and this year we inaugurated the Piracanga Free School. The school has educational principles based on a spiritual and sustainable life. The project also has a social side, and that’s why we have the school open to all children who seek and need our help and support. We have learnt from life that those who have the means should help those who need it, We believe that every human being has a mission in life, and we want to support each child in that mission. piracanga.com
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 65
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stays
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tour
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your guide to take off
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websites a selection of top places to stay, from boutique hotels to jungle lodges, urban chic spots to colonial mansions
top
stays Rio de Janeiro - City
Ipanema Plaza Location is definitely the highlight of this pleasant hotel right on the happening beach block of Ipanema’s Posto 9. A stone’s throw from some of the best restaurants in the South Zone of Rio, it’s also conveniently situated next to nightclubs, trendy shops and other attractions such as Copacabana beach and Rodrigo de Freitas, allowing visitors to easily explore the area. The Ipanema Plaza hotel has an offer of different types of accommodation ranging from the superior room (with 30m2), to balcony rooms, or perhaps the Ipanema Floor – a onestorey sumptuous apartment. All are equipped with air conditioning, wireless internet, minibar, cable TV, electronic safe and a bath. The fitness centre and swimming pool are both located in the communal rooftop area offering incredible views of Ipanema and Rio, and the hotel is also specialised in holiday and honeymoon deals with special treats.
Rio de Janeiro - City Marriott Av Atlântica 2600 - Copacabana +55 21 2545 6500 marriott.com
Portinari Design Rua Francisco Sá 17 - Posto 6 - Copacabana +55 21 3222 8800 hotelportinari.com.br
Fasano Av Vieira Souto 80 - Ipanema +55 21 3202 4000 - fasano.com.br
Casa 32
Hotel Santa Teresa Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 660 - Santa Teresa +55 21 2222 2755 santateresahotel.com
La Maison Rua Sérgio Porto 58, Gávea +55 21 3205 3585 lamaisonario.com
La Suite Rua Jackson De Figueiredo 501 - Joá +55 21 8187 6123 - lasuiterio.com
Rio Coast Búzios
Largo do Boticário 32 - Cosme Velho 55 21 2265 0943 casa32.com
Casas Brancas
Mama Ruisa
InsOlito
Rua Santa Cristina 132 - Santa Teresa +55 21 2242 1281 mamaruisa.com
Praia da Ferradura, Rua E1 - Lotes 3 e 4 +55 22 2623 2172 insolitos.com.br
Relais Solar
Perola Búzios
Ladeira do Meireles, 32 - Santa Teresa +55 21 2221 2117 solardesanta.com
Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 222 +55 22 2620 8507 perolabuzios.com.br
Ipanema Plaza
Rio 180 Suites
Rua Farme de Amoedo 34 – Ipanema +55 21 3687 2000 ipanemaplaza.com.br
Rua Dr. Júlio Otoni, 254 - Santa Teresa +55 21 2205 1247 rio180hotel.com
Alto do Humaitá 10 – Centro +55 22 2623 1458 - casasbrancas.com.br
Villa Rasa Marina
Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 299 – Praia Rasa +55 22 2623 8345 villarasamarina.com.br
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 67
checklist
Ilha Grande
Pousada do Sandi
Ubatuba
Largo do Rosário 1 +55 11 2503 3195 pousadadosandi.com.br
Barra do Piúva
Santa Clara Hotel
Av Brasil 1140 – Piuva +55 12 3894 9415 barradopiuva.com.br
Rod Rio-Santos km 53 +55 24 3371 8900
Pousada Picinguaba
Rio Inland Nova Friburgo Parador Lumiar Estrada do Amargoso s/n Boa Esperança, 5º Distrito +55 22 2542 4777 paradorlumiar.com
Petrópolis Sagu Mini Resort Sagu is an idyllic refuge with only nine spacious rooms available on the lush tropical island of Ilha Grande. Most of its rooms come equipped with air conditioning, minibar, telephone and a private balcony, complete with hammock. The resort makes good use of renewable resources heated by solar panels and waters from natural springs. Situated in a secluded stretch surrounded by the Atlantic Rainforest and reachable solely by boat, guests can enjoy the outdoor jacuzzis, massage therapies, boat excursions and scuba diving, among other treats Praia Brava – Vila do Abraão +55 24 3361 5660 saguresort.com
Sítio do Lobo Enseada das Estrelas +55 21 2227 4138 sitiodolobo.com.br
Paraty Casa Turquesa Rua Doutor Pereira, 50 - Centro Histórico +55 24 3371 1037 - casaturquesa.com.br
Quinta da Paz EstrADA Ministro Salgado Filho 4004 – Itaipava +55 24 2232 1999 quintadapaz.com.br
Tankamana Estrada Júlio Capua, 0 – Vale do Cuiabá +55 24 2232 2900 pousadatankamana.com.br
São Paulo - City Emiliano Rua Oscar Freire 384 – Jd Paulista +55 11 3068 4399 emiliano.com.br
Fasano
Largo da Palma, 6 – Santana +55 71 3324 8400 casadasportasvelhas.com
Cocoon Rua Heackel José de Almeida, 238 - Jaguaribe +55 71 3368 8100 hotel-cocoon.com
Convento do Carmo Rua do Carmo, nº 1 - Pelourinho +55 71 3327 8400 pestana.com
Villa Bahia Largo do Cruzeiro de São Francisco, Nº 16 -18 - Pelourinho +55 71 3322 4271 hotelvillabahia.com
Zank Hotel Rua Almirante Barroso, 161 - Rio Vermelho +55 71 3083 4000 zankhotel.com.br
L’Hotel Porto Bay
Arraial d’Ajuda Eco Resort
Al Campinas 266 – Jd Paulista +55 11 2183 0500 portobay.com.br
Ponta do Apaga Fogo - Arraial d’Ajuda +55 73 3575 8500 arraialresort.com.br
Normandie Design Hotel
Maitei
Av Ipiranga 1187 – Centro +55 11 3311 9855 normandiedesign.com.br
Estrada do Mucugê 475 +55 73 3575 3877 Maitei.com.br
São Paulo Coast Ilhabela
68 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
A Casa das Portas Velhas
Bahia Coast Arraial d’Ajuda
Av Brigadeiro Luis Antonio, 4700 Jd Paulista +55 11 30554710 hotelunique.com.br
Rod Rio-Santos Km 558 – Graúna +55 24 3371 2791 pousadabromelias.com.br
Bahia Salvador
Rua Vittorio Fasano 88 – Jd Paulista +55 11 3896 4000 fasano.com.br
Unique
Pousada Bromélias
Rua G, 130, Vila Picinguaba picinguaba.com
DPNY Beach Hotel Av Jose Pacheco do Nascimento 7668 Praia do Curral +55 12 3894 2121 dpnybeach.com.br
Barra Grande Kiaroa Loteamento da Costa area SD6 +55 73 3258 6213 kiaroa.com.br
Corumbau Fazenda São Francisco Ponta do Corumbau s/n Corumbau corumbau.com.br
Txai Rod Ilhéus-Itacaré km 48 +55 11 3513 4322 txai.com.br
Morro de São Paulo Anima Hotel Praia do Encanto +55 75 3652 2077 - animahotel.com
Vila dos Orixás Praia do Encanto s/n +55 75 3652 2055 hotelviladosorixas.com
Praia do Espelho Pousada do Outeiro Condomínio Outeiro das Brisas - Caraíva +55 11 3049 3111 - pousadadoouteiro.com.br
Praia do Forte Praia do Forte Eco Resort Av do Farol, S/N. - Praia do Forte +55 71 3676 4000 - praiadoforte.com
Trancoso Bahia Coast Morro de São Paulo
Patachocas Eco Resort Long gone are the days when Morro de São Paulo was the secret gem of Bahia’s coast, but as word gets around foreign visitors flock to the small island to enjoy some of its still unspoilt pleasures. Only a couple of hours by boat from the hustle and bustle of Salvador it is easy to understand its rise to fame. Set in a disused coconut farm, Patachocas Eco resort spreads from the coastline to the protected woodlands. It’s only a few steps from natural swimming pools made by the reef barriers, the ultimate paradise for children and those looking to sit back, relax and do absolutely nothing. Guests can stay at intimate bungalows or the main hotel building and enjoy some of the activities on offer, such as horse riding, boat trips or playing tennis and beach volleyball.
Vila Naiá Estrada Guarani-Corumbau, s/n +55 73 3573 1006 vilanaia.com.br
Costa do Sauípe Costa do Sauípe Rod. BA 099 Km 76 s/n Sauípe Linha Verde, Mata de São João costadosauipe.com.br
Itacaré
Etnia Pousada Rua Principal s/n +55 73 3668 1137 etniabrasil.com.br
Uxua Casa Hotel Praça do Quadrado +55 73 3668 2277 uxua.com.br
Northeast Coast Fernando de Noronha Beijupirá Lodge Noronha Rua Amaro Preto – Praia da Conceição +55 81 3619 1250 beijupiralodgenoronha.com.br
Pousada Maravilha BR 363, s/n – Praia Sueste +55 81 3619 0028 pousadamaravilha.com.br
Pousada Zé Maria
Vira Canoa
Patachocas Eco Resort
Simple yet cosy, Vila Canoa is surrounded by lush green and the natural wonders of Itacaré, just a few meters away from Pituba beach.
Quarta Praia +55 75 3652 2130 patachocas.com.br
Rua C, Quadra F – Praia da Concha +55 73 3251 2525 pousadaviracanoa.com.br
Rua Nice Cordeiro, 1 – Floresta Velha +55 81 3619 1258 pousadazemaria.com.br
Fortaleza Seara Praia Hotel Av Beira Mar 3080 – Meireles +55 85 4011 2200 hotelseara.com.br
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 69
checklist
Vila Galé Av Dioguinho 4189 Praia do Futuro +55 85 3486 4400 vilagale.pt
Jericoacoara
Maceió – Porto de Pedras
Olinda
Pousada Borapirá
Hotel 7 Colinas
Praia de Tatuamunha +55 82 3298 6520 borapira.com.br
Ladeira do São Francisco 307 – Carmo +55 81 3493 7766 hotel7colinas.com.br
Maceió - S Miguel dos Milagres
Porto de Galinhas Nannai Praia de Muro Alto s/n +55 81 3552 0100 - nannai.com.br
Pousada Tabapitanga Praia de Muro Alto s/n +55 81 3552 1037
Summerville Beach Resort Praia de Muro Alto s/n +55 81 3302 5555 summervilleresort.com.br
Praia da Pipa Kilombo Villas & Spa Rua das Tartarugas, s/n – Sibaúma +55 84 3246 5534 kilombovillas.com
Chili Beach Just 15 years ago Jericoacoara was nothing more than a rustic fishermen village known only by word of mouth and run with no electricity. Tourism slowly caught on but the natural wonders still at the centre stage. Chili Beach boutique hotel makes the most of this environment with its zen atmosphere: spa, therapeutic massages and horse back riding, as well as direct access to the beach. But if you get jaded, sports activities and adventure tours are also available.
Aldeia Beijupirá It’s easy to notice that being at one with nature is what this place is all about. Starting with its tongue twisting indigenous name, the homage to the area’s ancestors is extended to the interior design and the architecture of the bungalows which are shaped like Indian huts. Beijupirá is a firm favourite with honeymooners and those looking for nothing more than time to themselves. Mirante de Pipa
Rua da Igreja +55 88 9909 9135 Chilibeach.com
Praia do Laje +55 82 3298 6520 aldeiabeijupira.com.br
Cumelen Bed & Windsurf
Pousada do Toque
Beco do Serrote s/n +55 88 3669 2187 cumelen.com.br info@cumelen.com.br
Rua Felisberto de Ataíde s/n Povoado do Toque +55 82 3295 1127 pousadadotoque.com.br
Sombra e Água Fresca
Natal
Toca da Coruja
Manary Praia Rua Francisco Gurgel, 9067 – Ponta Negra +55 84 3204 2900 manary.com.br
Pontalmar Rua Inácio Vale 8868 – Ponta Negra +55 84 3646 4444 Pontalmar.com.br
Pousada Jeribá
Serhs Grand Hotel
Rua do Ibama s/n +55 88 3669 2206 jeriba.com.br
Sen Dinarte Medeiros Mariz 6046 Via Costeira +55 84 4005 2000 - serhsnatalgrandhotel.com
70 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
Rua do Mirante, 01 +55 84 3246 2251 mirantedepipa.com.br
Rua Praia do Amor 1000 +55 84 3246 2144 sombraeaguafresca.com.br
Av Baía dos Golfinhos s/n +55 84 3246 2226 - tocadacoruja.com.br
South Coast Balneário Camboriú Parador Estaleiro Rua Victorio Fornerolli, 454 – Praia do Estaleirinho +55 47 3261 6661 paradorestaleiro.com.br
Pousada Felíssimo Rua Alles Blaun, 201 – Praia dos Amores +55 47 3360 6291 - pousadafelissimo.com.br
Florianópolis Costão do Santinho Estr Vereador Onildo Lemos 2505 – Praia do Santinho +55 48 3261 1000 costao.com.br
Pousada do Vigia Rua Cônego Walmor Castro 291 – Lagoinha +55 48 3284 1789 pousadadavigia.com.br
Tiradentes Solar da Ponte Praça das Mercês, s/n +55 32 3355 1255 solardaponte.com.br
Adventure
Araras Eco Lodge
Adventures Abroad
Rod Transpantaneira, Km 32 - Poconé +55 65 3682 2800
Refúgio Ecológico Caiman
Ilha do Papagaio
Estância Caiman Zona Rural – Miranda +55 67 3242 1450 caiman.com.br
Praia do Rosa Quinta do Bucanero Estr Geral do Rosa s/n +55 48 3355 6056 - bucanero.com.br
Solar Mirador Estr Geral do Rosa s/n +55 48 3355 6144 solarmirador.com.br
Caminho do Rei Estrada do Morro, s/n - Imbituba +55 48 3355 6062 caminhodorei.com.br
South Montains Bento Gonçalves Pousada Borghetto Sant’Anna
Pousada Rio Mutum Rod Mimoso-Capoeirinha, Km15 Barão de Melgaço +55 65 3052 7022 pousadamutum.com.br
Wetiga Rua Cel Pilad Rebua 679 – Bonito +55 67 3255 1699 wetihahotel.com.br
Iguaçú Falls Bourbon Golf & Resort
Adventure Company Cross & Pillory Lane Alton Hampshire GU34 1HL 0845 450 5316 adventurecompany.co.uk
Dragoman Camp Green – Debenham Stowmarket Suffolk IP14 6LA 017 2886 1133 dragoman.com
Imaginative Traveller 1 Betts Avenue Martlesham Heath Suffolk IP5 3RH 0845 077 8802 imaginative-traveller.com
Hotel das Cataratas Parque Nacional do Iguaçú +55 45 2102 7000 hoteldascataratas.com
Amazon
Gramado
+55 92 3656 1246 amazonclipper.com.br
Kurotel Spa
Anavilhanas Lodge
R Nações Unidas 533 +55 54 3295 9393 - kurotel.com.br
+55 92 3622 8996 anavilhanaslodge.com
La Hacienda
ariaú amazon towers
Estr Serra Grande 4200 +55 54 3295 3025 - lahacienda.com.br
+55 92 2121 50000 ariau.tur.br
Varanda das Bromélias Boutique Hotel
Cristalino Jungle Lodge
Amazon Clipper Cruises
Av Perimetral Oeste, 2001 Alta Floresta +55 66 3512 7100 cristalinolodge.com.br
Central Brasil Ouro Preto
Tiwa Ecoresort
Solar do Rosário
Pousada Uacari
Rua Getúlio Vargas 270 – Bairro Rosário +55 31 3551 4200 hotelsolardorosario.com.br
00800 665 03998 adventures-abroad.com
Av das Cataratas Km 2.5 +55 45 3521 3900 bourbon.com.br
Linha Leopoldina 868 – Vale dos Vinhedos +55 54 3453 2355 borghettosantanna.com.br
Rua Alarisch Schulz, 158/198 - Planalto + 55 54 32866653 - hotel-gramado-rs.com
operators
Pantanal
Ilha do Papagaio Ilha do Papagaio - Palhoça +55 48 3286 1242 - papagaio.com.br
tour
+55 92 9995 7892 amazonelodge.nl
+55 97 3343 4160 uakarilodge.com.br
Intrepid Travel Taking travellers off around the world for over 20 years, Intrepid Travel covers 30 destinations in Brasil ranging from the carnival frenzy of Rio de Janeiro to the sheer magnitude of the Iguaçú Falls and the Amazon wildlife. Aiming to put visitors in direct touch with the host communities, Intrepid often relies on public transport and locally-run accommodation, immersing you in that far-flung reality, including capoeira classes. 76 Upper Street – Islington London N1 0NU 0207 354 6169 - intrepidtravel.com
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 71
checklist
Oasis Overland The Marsh – Henstridge Somerset BA8 0TF 019 6336 3400 oasisoverland.co.uk
Pura Aventura 18 Bond Street Brighton BN1 1RD 0845 225 5058 - pura-aventura.com
GAP Adventures 40 Star Street London W2 1QB 0844 410 1030 gapadventures.com
Bales Worldwide Junction Road - Dorking Surrey RH4 3HL 0845 057 1819 balesworldwide.com
Bravo Travel 6 Lower Grosvenor Place London SW1W 0EN 0844 443 1215 bravo-travel.com
Cazenove & Lloyd 3-11 Imperial Road London SW6 2AG 0207 384 2332 cazloyd.com
Cox & Kings
6th Floor - 30 Millbank London SW1P 4EE 0207 873 5000 coxandkings.co.uk
Explore!
Tucan Travel Escorted group tours, independent travel packages and expedition cruises are just some of the options Tucan Travel has to offer. In the market since 1987, it has recently been nominated for the British Travel Awards 2009. 316 Uxbridge Road London W3 9PQ 0208 896 1600 - tucantravel.com
Wild Frontiers Unit 6, Hurlingham Business Park 55 Sulivan Road London SW6 3DU 0207 736 3968 wildfrontiers.co.uk
World Expeditions
Nelson House 55 Victoria Road Farnborough Hampshire GU14 7PA 0844 499 0903 explore.co.uk
Geodyssey 116 Tollington Park London N4 3RB 0207 281 7788 geodyssey.co.uk
Journey Latin America 12-13 Heathfield Terrace London W4 4JE 0208 747 8315 journeylatinamerica.co.uk
Kumuka 40 Earls Court Road London W8 6EJ 0207 937 8855 kumuka.com
81 Craven Gardens, Wimbledon London SW19 8LU 0208 545 9030 - worldexpeditions.co.uk
Kuoni
Group Tours and Tailor-made
Last Frontiers
About U Travel 208 Battersea Park Road London SW11 3BS 0207 924 2998 about-u-travel.com
Audley Travel New Mill Lane Witney – OX29 9SX audleytravel.com 019 9383 8000
Austral Tours 20 Upper tachbrook Street London SW1V 1SH 0207 233 5384 - latinamerica.co.uk
72 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
013 0674 7002 kuoni.co.uk
Quainton Road Waddeston Buckinghamshire HP18 0LP 012 9665 8651 lastfrontiers.com
Latin Odyssey 1 Swan Mews Parsons Green Lane London SW6 4QT 0207 610 6020 latinodyssey.com
Latin America Travel 19 Cusack Close Twickenham TW1 4TB 0207 993 4340 latinamericatravel.co.uk
Noble Caledonia 2 Chester Close – Belgravia London SW1X 7BE 0207 752 0000 noble-caledonia.co.uk
Preston Reid Low Warren Farm Gilling East York YO62 4HZ 013 4788 9332 prestonreid.com
South American Experience Welby House 96 Wilton Road 0845 277 3366 southamericanexperience.co.uk
Steamond Travel 23 Eccleston Street London SW1W 9LX 0207 730 8646 - steamondtravel.com
Sunvil Upper Square, Old Isleworth Middlesex TW7 7BJ 0208 568 4499 - sunvil.co.uk
Travel Collection Deepdene – Dorking Surrey RH5 4AZ 013 0674 4311 travelcollection.co.uk
Tim Best Travel 1b The Village - 101 Amies Street London SW11 2JW 0207 591 0300 - timbesttravel.com
Tita Hitours Crossoak Lane, Redhill Surrey RH1 5EX 0800 988 5823 Titanhitours.co.uk
Trailfinders 0845 054 6060 trailfinders.com
Tribes Travel 12 The Business Centre Earl Soham – Woodbridge Suffolk IP13 7SA 017 2868 5971- tribes.co.uk
Trips Worldwide 14 Frederick Place – Clifton Bristol BS8 1AS 0800 840 0850 - tripsworldwide.co.uk
Veloso Tours 34 Warple Way London W3 0RG 0208 762 0616 - veloso.com
World Odyssey 32 Sansome Walk Worcester WR1 1NA 019 0573 1373 world-odyssey.com
Yampu 27 Great Queen Street London WC2B 5BB 0207 430 2668 yampu.com
Luxury Abercrombie & Kent St George’s House Ambrose Street – Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL50 3LG 0845 618 2200 abercrombiekent.co.uk
air
lines British Airways Three weekly flights from London Heathrow to Rio de Janeiro Total journey time: 11h40 Daily flights from London Heathrow to São Paulo Total journey time: 11h30
TAP
118-119 Fernchurch Street London EC3M 5BA 0207 337 9000 exsus.com
TAP Portugal is the European carrier with the widest coverage of destinations within Brasil, from all-year round sunny escapes in the Northeast to the architectural utopia of Brasília, cutting sensibly the total journey via Lisbon and Porto.
Jacada Travel 1-3 Dufferin Street London EC1 8NA 0800 756 6294 jacadatravel.com
Fovant Mews 12 Noyna Road London SW17 7PH 0208 682 5030 scottdunn.com
Steppes Latin America The Travel house 51 Castle Street – Cirencester Gloucestershire GL& 1QD 012 8588 5333 steppestravel.co.uk
The Ultimate Travel Company 25-27 Vanston Place London SW6 1AZ 0207 386 4646 theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk
Wildlife Go Fishing Worldwide 2 Oxford House Oxford Road North London W4 4DH 0208 742 1556 gofishingworldwide.co.uk
Reef & Rainforest Dart Marine Park, Steamer Quay Totnes Devon TQ9 5AL 018 0386 6965 reefandrainforest.co.uk
Wildlife Worldwide Long Garn South, Sutton Manor Farm Bishops Sutton – Alresford Hampshire SO24 0AA 0845 130 6982 wildlifeworldwide.com
Daily flights from Zurich to São Paulo Total journey time: 15h05
Direct Flights from the UK
Exsus Tonic
Scott Dunn
Swiss
Thirteen weekly flights from Lisbon and Porto to Sao Paulo Total journey time: 13h45
TAM Airlines TAM airlines offers non-stop flights from the UK to Brasil and is also the only one to offer Brasil and South American-wide air passes, enabling flights to up to nine destinations in the country and eight South American countries. Daily flights from London Heathrow to São Paulo Total journey time: 11h55
Stopovers in Europe Alitalia Daily flights from Milan to São Paulo Total journey time: 16h40
AirEuropa Three weekly flights from Madrid to Salvador Total journey time:14h25
Twelve weekly flights from Lisbon and Porto to Rio de Janeiro Total journey time: 13h45 Six weekly flights from Lisbon to Brasilia Total journey time: 14h Six weekly flights from Lisbon to Fortaleza Total journey time: 11h50 Six weekly flights from Lisbon to Recife Total journey time: 13h Six weekly flights from Lisbon to Salvador Total journey time: 13h40 Five weekly flights from Lisbon to Belo Horizonte Total journey time: 13h35 Four weekly flights from Lisbon to Natal Total journey time: 11h35
Local Carriers Azul voeazul.com.br
Air France
GOL
Two daily flights from Paris to São Paulo Total journey time: 13h45 Two daily flights from Paris to Rio de Janeiro Total journey time: 13h10
voegol.com.br
Iberia Fourteen weekly flights from Madrid to São Paulo Total journey time: 14h30 Five weekly from Madrid to Rio de Janeiro Total journey time:14h15
TAM Airlines tamairlines.com
Ocean Air oceanair.com.br
Passaredo
KLM
voepassaredo.com.br
Daily flights from Amsterdam to São Paulo Total journey time: 14h35
TRIP
Lufthansa Daily flights from Frankfurt to São Paulo Total journey time:15:30
voetrip.com.br
Webjet webjet.com.br
2009 - 2010 | Jungle Trips | 73
CHECKLIST
reviews
websites Travel Networks Ben P. Jones enters cyberspace to search for the most interesting and inspirational online media resources before you head to Brasil. Ensure your trip is unforgettable! Our parental publication is the monthly magazine JungleDrums, showcasing the best of the Brasilian cultural and arts scene in the UK, with a really smart website which you can check out at jungledrumsonline.com. Don’t despair that Jungle Trips is out only once a year and you can’t go to Brasil every month; you can stay up to date through our monthly Trips newsletter, which you can subscribe to on the website above, and if you are really keen to stay up to speed then sign up to jungletripsmag on twitter and get the latest news every week!
Local Knowledge Earlier this year rentalocalfriend.com showed up in media circles. The idea to contact locals before you travel has now started a tidal wave of similar initiatives. For instance leaplocal.org puts travellers in touch with recommended local guides and aims to help locals with responsible tourism, providing an innovative and respectful approach, while tripbod.com is a great service where the local and the traveller converse to create their custom travel itineraries.
Guides The unlike.net series have caused a stir this year, offering alternative and creative guides to the world’s leading cities. Of particular interest is the one on São Paulo; essentially mobile guides, it is a sign of the way forward for information exchange. Insideragency.com is all about having dialogue with locals through an online community, and with 20 Brasilian ‘insiders’ it has a good base to expand into an important portal. Dopplr.com is a domain for the sharing of your travel plans and tips - billed as a service for the smart traveller, members can share personal and business travel plans privately with their networks.
Visual Media With the inception of youtube and other social networks, the use of visual media to explore tourism is more accessible and practical than ever. Geobeats.com offers guided video tours and reviews of travel destinations around the world. At present it only features videos on Rio de Janeiro but it is more than likely to expand. Tripfilms.com is a free service that provides travel videos to viewers. It is a vibrant network of contributors and insightful videography that exhibits the best travel videos on offer from across the globe. Go and explore!
74 | Jungle Trips | 2009 - 2010
More flights than anyone else to Latin America.
0844 4431215 More than 500 airport lounges across the globe: oneworld
bravo-travel.com