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Your 5-day
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Lisbon & Porto
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contents
Bem-vindos!
PUBLISHER Juliano Zappia
Just as we were closing this issue, yet another “Portuguese Connection” was brought to us, straight from South Africa, and in the form of the results of the draw for the 2010 World Cup: Brazil is to play Portugal. The date (25th June) of what promises to be one of the best games of the first group stages, is already up on the walls of the Jungle office. The duel will take place in Durban, a city on the East coast of South Africa, a country well served by flights with TAP Portugal who, together with Turismo de Portugal (the tourist board of Portugal), helped make this guide a reality. In September 2009, part of the Jungle team, accompanied by O Globo UK correspondent Fernando Duarte, and designer-cum-cook, Fernando Cuca, headed off to Porto and Lisbon to produce this guide, as well as a website with unmissable tips, information and videos, which you can find at www.portugueseconnection.co.uk. There, you’ll also have a chance to win a return ticket to any of TAP’s eight destinations in Brazil, with the right to a 5-day pit stop in Portugal in a luxury hotel, courtesy of Pousadas de Portugal. In the meantime, browse these pages and enjoy the delights of a country which has so much connecting it to Brazil. The battle between Cristiano Ronaldo and Kaká in South Africa just promises more flavour in a mix already so very rich. Juliano Zappia
MANAGING EDITOR Fernando Duarte PROJECT COORDINATOR Nando Cuca EDITORIAL / PHOTOGRAPHY Ana Naomi de Sousa DESIGNERS Neni Almeida Thellius Zamprogno SPECIAL THANKS TO Porto Convention & Visitors Bureau (Madalena Dinis), Sheraton Hotel and SPA Porto, Taylor Caves, Top Travel (Paulo Muxa), Pestana Ribeira Hotel.
JUNGLEDRUMS’ CONTACT
020 7242 5140 info@jungledrums.org p.o.box 49713 london wc1x 8ww
The team beaming into the futuristic Casa da Música, in Porto.
COVER PICTURE BY EDUARDO ZAPPIA
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lisbon
an introduction to the city of seven hills
Lisbon: sensorial treat OK, so there are the obvious attractions like the average 3,000-plus hours of annual sunshine, and the ever more accepted truth that this is one of the most beautiful and culturally vibrant cities in the world. Lisbon, however, would be sold short if we did not also mention its role as the cradle of European expansion, where the discovery of the world as we know it began all the way back in the 15th Century. Nonetheless, Lisbon boasts far more than just memories of a past both glorious and tragic (an earthquake ravaged most of the city in 1755): it also symbolises the renaissance of Portugal, after the country spent a great part of the 20th century under the suffocating fascist dictatorship of António Salazar. During the last few decades, Portugal has experienced economic growth and development - and Lisbon is its business card, from the tiny, Moorish streets of the Alfama to modern constructions such as the Nations Park, the mesmerising site of the 1998 Expo world fair.
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It’s a city where you can look back into a fascinating colonial past and ahead to a cosmopolitan, multicultural future. Where a trendy contemporary design scene unfolds in medieval houses. Where Europe meets Africa and the Middle East. A city where cobbled alleys and stone houses keep you refreshed, even when the sun is mercilessly beating down. For tourists on their way to Brazil for the first time there could not be a better place to start the journey, before retracing the steps of intrepid navigators who crossed the Atlantic in the 15th century. v
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not to miss
Belém The monuments to Portugal’s maritime past are all here - from the Tower of Belém to the amazing Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Jerónimos monastery. Belém is a fundamental stop in Lisbon, and is also where you’ll find the original Portuguese custard tart.
HISTORY Lisbon is one of the oldest capitals in Europe, and it boomed during the 16th century with the wealth generated by Portugal’s maritime expeditions, when extravagant landmarks such as the Jerónimos Monastery and the Torre de Belém were erected. Much had to be rebuilt, however, after the earthquake of 1755.
Alfama
Parque das Nações / Nations Park
Lose yourself in this historical Moorish neighbourhood of Lisbon, one of the few that survived the massive earthquake of 1755 unscathed. Small shops, restaurants and ordinary folk all inhabit this labyrinth of ancient, narrow streets.
Portugal joined the EU in 1986 but its arrival was properly announced 12 years later when this impressive park was built. Visit the wonderful Lisbon Aquarium and take the cable car that runs the full length of the site.
Miradouros
Streetcars of desire
Sunsets are even more special with a glass of chilled wine or ice cold beer at Noo Bai, on the Santa Catarina Miradouro, one of Lisbon’s famous view points, from which you can appreciate the views from each of the city’s seven hills.
Lisbon is tattooed with a series of narrow tram lines which connect almost all of the city’s ‘bairros’ and also offer a charming journey. Four lines still use the old Brill carriages of the 1930s: the 12, 18, 25 and 28.
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NIGHT owl For the young and insomniac, Lisbon’s nightlife is all about the Bairro Alto. Lisboetas of all ages and interests flock here on the weekend, and after 12am it really gets going. You can just wander from bar to bar all night, but we suggest Maria Caxuxa (retro cool), Café Royale (gay) or Capela (hyper). Fado • nights out in lisbon
The Portuguese blues As a musical genre characterised by mournful tunes and lyrics, and often about the life of the poor, it’s no surprise that Fado (meaning fate) is known as the “Portuguese Blues” – though some performers and fans scowl at the definition. It is arguably Portugal’s most well-known cultural export and although linked to tradition and the past – not always in a good way, owing to patronage of the genre by the Salazar dictatorship - Fado has experienced a revival and regeneration in the last few years thanks to a new generation of singers such as Mariza and Cristina Branco, who bring their love for other rhythms such as jazz and soul into the mix. For newcomers, however, traditional Fado is still a real treat, especially the experience of having singers literally at your table. The city is full of places where fadistas – anonymous or established – will drop by for a couple of songs. Choosing the right bar is essential and there are some tourists traps, but Mesa de Frades, in Alfama, won’t let you down. In Bairro Alto, try Adega do Ribatejo, where staff are also singers and players. The Fado Museum has more information as well as impromptu concerts. v Mesa de Frades, Rua dos Remedios 139A www.mesadefrades.com 6
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Between Bairro Alto and our next stop, the Bica slope has been a trendy hotspot for over a decade – the Bicaense bar is highly recommended! Heading down the road for clubs and electronic music, Cais do Sodré, has swanky venues, like Music Box. A little further in Santos, there are options off the beaten track - African clubs like Com Vento. For a super-club, Lisbon’s premier big nightspot is Lux.
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where to stay
Lord of the manor Lisbon has a range of hotels. But combining privacy, comfort and independence by staying in a self-catered apartment has grown in popularity, especially as it’s often possible to strike it lucky in terms of luxury and price (some places, for example, offer space for four people at a total of €60 per night, a much better rate than you’ll find at any hotel).
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STAY HERE
Hotel do Chiado Hard to beat this one; perched on Largo do Camões with the most incredible views of the city and the Tejo; and within walking distance of Chiado and the Bairro Alto. Voted as one of the best hotels in the world by Condé Nast. Casa do Bairro Offers individually decorated rooms from €55 per night in Santa Catarina, with a choice between B&B bedrooms and self-catering apartments, it’s an absolute gem.
In the case of Portugal Exclusive Homes, these prices can include satellite TV, air-conditioning/heating and free internet for a range of apartments spread around the capital - as well as the opportunity to blend in with the locals and to get to know one of the historical neighbourhoods of the city. Lisbon has plenty of options from B&Bs and guest houses to the poshest spa hotel, but beware if you’re a light sleeper. The northern end of the Baixa has the most plentiful but also the noisiest lodgings, for example. For 24-hour party people, Bairro Alto is a must for crawl-home-to-bed ease, but neighborhoods such as Alfama and Mouraria, or those further from the centre are a better option for a more peaceful stay. And anywhere up one of Lisbon’s seven hills you will probably find a room with a view. v
Lisbon Poets Hostel Offering a choice of dorms, rooms and apartments in two locations, all beautifully decorated, creative, safe and clean, this is much, much more than your average hostel experience, yet won’t bust your budget.
Portuguese Exclusive Homes www.portugalexclusivehomes.com portuguese connection
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Bica do Sapato Modern and minimalist, Bica do Sapato is a swish conversion of warehouses around Lisbon’s Santa Apolonia harbour area. It has 3 spaces (bistro, restaurant and sushi bar), all with great views of the Tejo. Cuisine is modern Portuguese/ Mediterranean
Cervejaria Ramiro sugar and spice
Sweet heavens above Even before Portugal used northeastern Brazil for sugar-cane cultivation in the 16th century, the nuns and monks of Lisbon were already inventing recipes using copious egg yolks. These were left over in large quantities from the process of starching habits and cloaks with egg whites. The results of their culinary experiments were - all puns intended - heavenly and well appreciated, and as a result, Portugal has a strong tradition of sweet pastries and cakes, some with brilliant names like “nun’s belly”. Many have ingredients such as cinnamon and coconut, the treasures from Portugal’s maritime adventures in Asia and South America. The most famous cake is the Pastel de Belém (a custard tart), whose original factory, in the famous Lisbon neighbourhood, still attracts crowds of locals and tourists at peak times (be prepared to queue on weekends!). Sweets aside, Lisbon’s cuisine reflects the nation’s love of pork and seafood, and as well as the many dishes with cod and sardines, it is rich in stews and roasts. Just make sure you save space for desert. v Pasteis do Belém Rua do Belém no. 84, 8
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One of Lisbon’s best seafood restaurants and a great place for prawns with garlic served in a sizzling dish or the enigmatic ‘Percebes’ (Goose barnacles - ugly but delicious).
O Ideal do Conde Barão Tucked down a tiny side street, this typical Portuguese tasca bustles with politicians and local shop vendors at lunchtime, when main courses cost around just €5.
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WHERE TO SHOP • WHAT TO BUY
Retail Therapy in Lisbon Lisbon is one of those cities where old-world nostalgia meets funky retro, and it’s the perfect place to pick up unusual treasures. For good, old-fashioned tourist-tack, try the shops around the Baixa downtown, where you’ll also find the deliciously chintzy Amália Rodrigues record shop, as well as some top-shops for wine, cheese and sardines displayed in old glass cabinets.
fairs deals Lisbon’s markets provide a fresh way to see the city’s heart and soul - whether lying amongst the heaps of antiques and bric-a-brac, or in the hustle and bustle of the oldfashioned indoor food markets. For everything from 1930’s photographs to shoes to used mobile phones, get to Feira da Ladra, behind the São Vicente monastery every Tuesday and Saturday morning. Here you’ll find nostalgic junk and occasional gems.
The roads between Chiado and the Baixa are still home to some of Lisbon’s oldest boutiques, including Luvaria Ulisses, which sells beautiful handcrafted gloves; and the Chapelaria do Rossio hat-shop. There are several, large shopping malls in Lisbon, but for top-end designer shops, it has to be Avenida da Liberdade. For unique, vintage and funky finds, however, you need to venture into the Bairro Alto during daylight hours, where you’ll see across dozens of tiny shops crammed with goodies. The Wrong Shop, near Carmo, turns the concept of tourist souvenirs on its head, producing cockerels painted with the flags of other countries, and T-shirts with slogans like “Portugal regrets inventing fado”. v
If you’re up early (before sunrise), head to Mercado da Ribeira, opposite Cais do Sodré, where you’ll find old-school Lisbonites gathering to purchase fresh produce from their favourite vendors.
The Wrong Shop Calçada do Sacramento 25, portuguese connection
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porto
a city steeped in history
Porto, the star of the north Although not as famous worldwide as Lisbon, Porto is one of Europe’s most charismatic cities. From monuments to boat trips, romantic retreats to sizzling nightclubs, Portugal’s oldest city offers a range of sights and attractions for first-timers, to fit the needs of every type of traveller - including those interested in a very special, fortified, sweet wine. At the mouth of the Rio Douro, this hilly city encapsulates many styles, eras and attitudes. Visitors can follow the narrow, medieval alleyways while taking in extravagant baroque churches, some of them groaning under the weight of precious metals; or along wide boulevards lined with stately beaux-arts buildings; or down the pretty banks of the river. In the last two decades, and especially since landing the title of European Capital of Culture in 2001, Porto has had an urban makeover, a brand new metro system, and ambitious renewal projects. Amongst these are two of the most impressive buildings in the city - Álvaro Siza Vieira’s Museu
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de Arte Contemporânea at the Serralves, and Rem Koolhaas’ Casa da Música (see opposite page). Porto is famous for having tripe as its most traditional dish - and those originating in Porto are nicknamed as tripe eaters (“tripeiros”). Porto’s simple eateries reveal the secrets of its gastronomical past, but it has also enjoyed a recent culinary renaissance, with a number of forward-leaning restaurants and bars opening their doors in the last few years. It’s no wonder that the Portuense are such a proud bunch, and so eager to show their city to newcomers. v
porto
not to miss
Cais da Ribeira Take an afternoon to explore one of the last ungentrified riverside neighborhoods in Europe. On the Ribeira, trendy street bars share space with shabby but charming watering holes, all within view of the famous bridge built by Gustave Eiffel (yes, the one who built the tower).
HISTORY As an ancient port dating back to the 4th Century, Porto played a pivotal role in Portugal’s history - its shipyards produced some of the vessels with which 14th Portuguese navigators launched their great expeditions. One of the city’s revolts against the English led to the creation of the Portuguese Republic, in 1910.
Clerigos’ Tower
River Douro
Although not for the faint-hearted or claustrophobic (it has 225 steps and narrow corridors all the way to the top), the Clerigo’s Tower, built in 1763 by Italian architecture genius Niccolo Nasoni, offers stunning views of Porto for only €2.
River Cruises – from the panoramic bridge tour, which only lasts 50 minutes, to whole cruises to the wine country that include stepping on grapes, no one should miss the chance to see Porto from a boat.
Livraria Lello
Mercado Bolhão
Ranked 3rd in a list of the world’s 10 most stunning bookshops compiled by The Guardian in 2008, Lello is worth a visit for its “staircase to heaven” alone. But is also offers a huge selection of local titles translated into English.
Porto’s historic food market has resisted several attempted closures and refurbishments.This is the place to head to for fresh produce and living history. The local vendors, who love to chat, are an added bonus to the visit.
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porto
NIGHT owl Porto has some intriguing options for post-supper tipple. The Galerias de Paris street offers a sprinkling of bars and eateries in the city centre, in comparison to the more touristy but undeniably pretty Cais da Ribeira, on the riverside.
port caves
Once upon a wine Portugal’s second city is the only place that provides the authentic experience of tasting Port wine at its cradle. It was in the Douro Valley that the sweet, fortified wine was first made and it went on to become world famous in the 18th century, when the Napoleonic wars forced the British to find a substitute for the wine traditionally imported from France. It is for this reason that many Port houses along the city’s waterfront bear British names and some still belong to old Anglo-Portuguese families. The Caves (or lodges) where the barrels of port are stored are one of the main tourist attractions in Porto. Some of the houses are more than 300 years old and nearly every one of them is open for guided tours, offering a crash course in Port connaissance- including a chance to try the goods. Taylor’s, one of the few houses that still belong to the original owners, is a well-recommended destination. Not only for its flawless tour but also for the panoramic restaurant overlooking Foz and Ribeira. For those looking for a complete wine experience, there are tours that take visitor to the wine country and allow them to cut their own grapes. v Taylor’s Port Wine Lodges www.taylor.pt 12
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If you’re looking for a younger, more alternative crowd, you should check out Maus Habitos, which has live music and a funky set-up. Key clubbing sports are PlanoB, and the ever-surprising Era Uma Vez no Porto. Like in Lisbon, revellers party till sunrise. So why not round up with breakfast at Café Majestic, one of Porto’s most traditional coffee houses, for a good galão - or even a pingo (the Portuense for espresso)?
porto
museums • casa da música
The walls have ears As well as being an architectural gem conceived by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas and full of surprises, Casa da Música (The House of Music) is Portugal’s first construction dedicated entirely to music, and has a wide-ranging programme of events from classical concerts to rave parties, and often hosts free sessions. It was constructed to celebrate Porto’s status as European Capital of Culture in 2001, but Casa da Música goes further than promoting gigs. Within its walls there is a suspended bar, interactive sound exhibits, a room with walls made of green sponge, and a children’s creche with speakers and sound-proof windows overlooking the main concert hall, allowing the little ones to enjoy the same concerts as their parents in a customised space. There are different ways to enjoy the Casa da Música; either just turn up and see what happens, grab a programme and book yourself some tickets to a live show, or get a guided tour of the building’s nooks and crannies, led by one of a team of experts made up of architects and musicians who love nothing more than to show off one of Porto’s finest attractions. v
Serralves Perhaps the most important modern art museum in Portugal, constructed by renowned architect Siza Vieira, the Serralves is set in beautiful gardens brimming with art.
Casa da Música, Avenida da Boavista, Porto www.casadamusica.com portuguese connection
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EAT HERE Cafeína Located in the posh Foz neighbourhood, Cafeína is one of Porto’s top restaurants of the day, with a continental menu and an atrociously delicious wine list.
Chez Laplin
Gastronomy for strong stomachs
The tripe of a lifetime Resisting invasions and attacks had a deep impact on life in Porto - especially eating habits. In the battles of the past, locals gave away the best cuts of meat to their soldiers and kept the offal (the organs and entrails), which was then cooked in different ways, giving rise to a variety of dishes and different types of sausage. To this day, natives of Porto are known as tripe-eaters, but nowadays their cuisine is much less sacrificial. There are delicious specialities using cod (Bacalhau Gomes de Sá, for example, with egg and chips) and other meat dishes such as roasted black pig. However, one of the most famous “Portuense” dishes is actually a prime example of supersize fast-food: the Francesinha, a croque-monsieur à la Porto - that means very thick cuts of meat stuffed between two slices of bread, topped with melted cheese and drowning in a secret sauce whose only known ingredients are cockles and beer. Francesinhas are almost as compulsory for tourists as a good glass of Port. Unless you’re on a diet, of course. Looking for a more sophisticated experience? Head to Foz, Porto’s poshest neighbourhood, for the city’s top restaurants. v For more insider gastronomic tips www.oportocool.wordpress.com 14
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Chez Lapin comes highly recommended by our Paulo Mucha, the Jungle Crew’s guide in Porto – and we trust his judgement. In any case, you mustn’t leave without sampling some of the typical dishes.
Capa Negra II Porto’s famous ‘Francesinha’ is a hearty sandwich with ham and steak, and a special sauce made with beer, dripping in cheese. Not great if you’re on a diet but delish. The best place to eat them is the famous Capa Negra II.
porto
where to stay
A night at the palace Tourists visiting Porto can rest assured that the Invincible City has hotels for all budgets and needs. This does not mean, however, that a lavish experience need leave you bankrupt. Perhaps the best example of this is the recently opened Pousada dos Freixos: installed in a 19th century palace that stands as a remarkable example of Portuguese pombaline architecture, the pousada has 75 rooms, as well as indoor and outdoor pools and stunning views of the river Douro, but rates can be as low as £90 a night.
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stay here Sheraton Porto Hotel & Spa
As well as the tasty nosh in their restaurant, the rooms were super comfortable, and the spa is divine. Great if you feel like you deserve a treat.
Eurostar das Artes Ideally located in the heart of Porto, lies the Eurostar Das Artes hotel, close to the most important art galleries and the Boavista commercial and historic area. It is within walking distance of Ponte Dom Luis, Torre dos Clérigos, Mercado do Bolhão and the traditional Ribeira area.
Residencial Pão de Açúcar On the other side of town, near Boavista, the Porto Sheraton Spa follows the same principle, with a combination of special packages including spa treatments, luxury facilities and an internationally acclaimed restaurant under the command of Jerónimo Ferreira, of one Portugal’s most famous chefs - his Fish Cataplana, by the way, is an unmissable treat cooked before your eyes. For romantic trips, the Pestana Porto is great. Located in the heart of Ribeira, Porto’s historic quarter, the hotel has a privileged riverside position, as part of a picturesque group of buildings dating back to the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. You won’t find a better location. v
Chintzy and retro, this residential is like a blast from the past. It has a secret trump card too – a fantastic terrace overlooking the lights of Porto. It won’t break the bank either.
Porto Conventions and Visitor’s Bureau www.portocvb.com portuguese connection
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website
portuguese connections • bonus tracks WIN!
Connect to connect! Unlike other travel guides, we bring different resources to people wanting to know a bit more about Lisbon and Porto before heading out to Brazil, which is why Jungle sent an editorial team that would go beyond the stuff you might find in an ordinary guide book to Portugal. Our intrepid editors, Fernando Duarte, Juliano Zappia and Nando Cuca, and photographer Ana de Sousa, went down to Porto and Lisbon for a whirlwind tour of the two cities to experience everything first-hand and bring you their tips. On the website www.portugueseconnection.co.uk you’ll find the video recommendations and diary clips they recorded whilst out there. You’ll also find more details on accomodation, dining and partying in both cities and lots of hidden gems and other off the beaten track tips. We hope their hard work will help you to enjoy these two great cities even more. There is also the added bonus of our brief guides to some other great Portuguese destinations – Madeira, Azores and Algarve. Don’t forget to check the Hot Tips section for stuff even locals don’t know about yet! v Portuguese Connection www.portugueseconnection.co.uk 16
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TAP’s aces We picked up a vintage pack of TAP playing cards at the Feira da Ladra - and now they’re up for grabs - just enter www.jungledrumsonline.com
website
video highlights With our video blog you can check out some of our hottest tips from Lisbon and Porto and see for yourself whether they - or we are any good! From Porto’s markets to Lisbon’s poets, we’ve been there, done that, and got the video!
Master the cataplana
An audience with Guida
Lisbon Poets
Top Portuguese Chef Jerónimo lets us into his open kitchen at Porto’s luxurious Sheraton Hotel, and shows us how to make one of the most delicious and surprisingly easy Portuguese dishes around.
Juliano gets to know the Portuguese jazz-singer Guida de Palma while looking out over the 25th April Bridge and the River Tejo, at the beautiful Noo Bai bar on the Santa Catarina Miradouro.
We get to grips with the poets of Portugal past and tracks down the monuments and statues honouring the country’s most famous lyricists, from Luis de Camões to Fernando Pessoa.
Floating down the Douro
Francesinha, the über-sarnie
Ginginha’s taste of history
We took a lesuirely trip down the Douro river to get a view of the city as it was once seen by the British and Portuguese merchants who built the Port trade hundreds of years ago.
When we heard about Porto’s most famous sandwich with its secret sauce, we knew we had to try it – so we headed down to the famous Capa Negra II, and persuaded the cooks to show us how they make it.
As the sun set over Lisbon we headed downtown to try the city’s favourite tipple, a strong liquer made from Ginja cherries, and served, if you so desire, with the fruit seeds in the bottom of the cup.
When you see a play symbol you can access www.portugueseconnection.co.uk to watch the video
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listings
portuguese connections listings
Hotels & restaurants
Where to eat, drink, stay and play in both cities
Lisbon lodgings Portuguese Exclusive Homes Various locations all over Lisbon www.portugalexclusivehomes.com
Casa do Bairro Beco do Caldeira, 1 www.casadobairro.pt
Hotel do Chiado Largo do Camoes, 2 www.hoteldochiado.com
Lisbon Poets’ Hostel Rua Nova da Trindade, 2 www.lisbonpoetshostel.com
Lisbon restaurants Bica do Sapato Av.Infante Henrique, Cais da Pedra www.bicadosapato.com
Cervejaria Ramiro Avenida Almirante Reis, 1 www.cervejariaramiro.pt
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O Ideal do Conde Barão
Residencial Pão de Açucar
Rua da Silva, 33
Rua do Almada, 262 www.residencialpaodeacucar.com
Mesa de Frades Rua dos Remédios, 139A www.mesadefrades.com
Pap D’Açorda Rua da Atalaia, 57
Oporto Poet’s Hostel Rua dos Caldeireiros, 261 www.oportopoetshostel.com
Porto restaurants
O Chapitô
Capa Negra II
Costa do Castelo, 7 www.chapito.org
Rua Campo Alegre, 191, Porto www.capanegra.com
Sinal Vermelho
Cafeina
R Gávea,s 89, Bairro Allto
Rua do Padrão, 100, Porto
Porto lodgings
Chez Laplin Rua dos Canastreiros, 40, Porto
Sheraton Porto Hotel Spa Rua Tenente Valadim 146 www.sheraton.com/porto
Ar de Rio
Pousada Palácio de Freixo
Cinema Batalha
Estrada Nacional, 108,Porto www.pousadas.pt
Praça da Batalha, 47 www.cinemabatalha.com
Avenida Diogo Leite, 5, Gaia, Porto
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need to know Portugal Money You can take Euros out at most cashpoints (ask for a ‘Multibanco’) and use your credit or debit card at most shops, hotels and restaurants etc (though you might pay a fee).
Average costs
A beer - €1.50 ; A glass of wine - €1.20 ; Cheese & ham sandwich ‘Mista’ - €2.40 ; A cheap lunch - €6.00 ;
Lisbon From the airport Lisbon only has one airport, and it’s pretty close to the city centre- about 20 mins max, and it will cost you around €10 in a taxi. Alternatively, you can also get a bus into the city centre from the stop outside the airport.
Transport Taxi: The easily recognisable yellow taxis are a cheap and efficient way to get around in Lisbon, especially at night. If you’re in a group it often works out as cheap as getting public transport. Tube: Lisbon has an efficient tube network, which can take you from the Cidade Baixa to the suburbs quickly. Train: Cais do Sodré provides connections to Belém, Cascais and Sintra, whilst the other stations link Lisbon to the rest of the country. Rossio’s worth a look for its amazing art-deco style alone.
Porto From the airport Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport can be found 11km from downtown Porto and is therefore well served by public transport. There are also direct shuttle buses to hotels and the city centre. Taxis are available day and night and are fairly inexpensive (around €10-15 for a ride to the city centre).
Transport Taxi: They are a cheap and efficient way to get around in Porto, especially at night. Again, if in a group it’s often as cheap as getting public transport. Expect an average €3-5 for journeys within the city centre, with around 20% more for late night rides. Tube: Young and fresh – it only opened for business in 2002 - Porto’s tube system has five independent lines that stretch from central areas to the suburbs across 37.5 miles. Train: Porto is the principal rail hub for northern Portugal. Long-distance services start at Campanhã station, 2km east of the centre. Most suburban, regional and interregional (IR) trains start from São Bento station, though all these lines also pass through Campanhã.
Tram: Definitely the most charming way to get around. Some of the routes still use the beautiful old-fashioned trams with wooden floors and many scale Lisbon’s steep hills slowly, allowing you plenty of time to take in the views.
Tram: Porto’s trams used to be one of its delights. Only three lines remain, but they’re very scenic. The Massarelos stop, on the riverfront near the foot of the Palácio Cristal, is the tram system’s hub. Trams run approximately every 30 minutes from 9am to 7pm.
One-way ticket within the city: Tram and Bus - €1.20; Metro €0.80.
One-way ticket within the city: Tram and Bus - €1.30; Metro €0.95.
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TAP FIGHTS ROUTES FROM LISBON ROUTES FROM PORTO ROUTES FROM LONDON HEATHROW/GATWICK
HEATHROW GATWICK
PORTO LISBON
FORTALEZA NATAL RECIFE BRASÍLIA
SALVADOR
belo horizonte
SÃO PAULO RIO DE JANEIRO
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