JungleDrums issue 84 - September 2010

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C:L :M=>7>I>DC :HI67A>H=:H I=: 8>IN 6H I=: LDGA9 86E>I6A D; HIG::I 6GI A GUIDE TO WHERE TO SEE THE BEST MURALS IN SÃO PAULO

FORRÓ SPECIAL: HOT SPOTS TO DANCE AND THE BAND TO WATCH

WIN TICKETS TO SEE ADRIANA CALCANHOTTO

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in the kitchen with exotic blends and a culinary demo from Brasilian chef Carlos Ribeiro at Regent’s College on 16th September - better still we’ve got tickets to be won! YJGV [QWT CRRGVKVG QP RCIG

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THE MASKED MEN behind the rising band Natema, and catch them in action live at the second of Jungle’s Baby Bitch parties at the Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes on Friday 17th September alongside the trusty João Brasil and DJ Glittah. (KPF QWV OQTG QP R

ZmeZg^ZcXZ THE WEALTH OF MUSICAL talent being showcased by the London African Music Festival, spanning six venues across the city from 10th-25th September with the likes of Carmen Souza (above), the African Jazz Allstars and Omar Sosa. SGG QWT #IGPFC QP R

XdjeaZ je FOR A DANCE

any night of the week you like, and make the most of our special guide to forrĂł in London, and warm up for the big hoedown on Sunday 3rd October with Brasilian forrĂł band Bicho de PĂŠ! UGG 5RKEGU HGCVWTG QP R

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nights of London and sample the climate and colours of Brasil with our cover feature and travel pages, all about the sprawling street art scene and a huge graffiti exhibition in SĂŁo Paulo. UGG OQTG QP RCIG

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COVER FEATURE

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A renowned museum in São Paulo opens its doors to grafiteiros and confirms the city’s status as the best for street art in the world

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4THINKING MINDS

DESTINATION

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SPICES Carlos Zéfiro revival brings to the new generation his overly sexual stories and delicate lines

London African Music Festival, DJ Marky, Jungle back at Camino, Havana Rakatan and much more

The Homeless World Cup goes to Rio de Janeiro for footbal matches that can change lives

Take to the streets and discover which corners and murals of São Paulo hide the best graffiti murals

WIN

JUNGLE GUIDE

INBOX

ARNALDO ANTUNES

Adriano Calcanhotto tickets & more

Master chef tips: cook the Brasilian way

Your rants and raves

Raw meat poetry

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Trio da Ilha

plus guests + DJ Forr贸 Kindred (DJ James)

Sunday 3rd October

O2 Academy Islington Doors 7pm 拢15 adv Tickets online O2AcademyIslington.co.uk or wegottickets.com

PRODUCED BY

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CONTEMPORARY COOKING LESSON

DJ MARKY & FRIENDS @ FABRIC

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©<AA¡ 8;<D Anyone who came of age in Brasil in the 60s-70s knows full well who Carlos Zéfiro is. Not so much the artists himself, but the work that inspired so many turbulent adolescent nights during the repressive years of the military dictatorship. The super-respectable civil servant Alcides de Aguiar Caminha Filho must've had a few sleepless nights himself, hard at work on the little sex comics that were to play such an important role in the fantasies of whole generations of Brasilians. And thanks to the dictatorship he kept these activities in the closet the entire time. Recent years have seen a surge in projects attempting to resurrect Zéfiro's work. The sculptor Felipe Taborda, for example, was consultant and design co-ordinator on a project to re-print 'the catechisms', as his books became known. "There was no scientific, artistic or intellectual angle, here. We chose to just reprint the ones that had survived in the best condition." The publication was wound up a year ago due to distribution problems, problems which - surprisingly enough - never troubled Caminha himself, even during the times of strictest censorship. But the traces of Caminha are coming back into the popular imagination, thanks to the kiss of life from a handful of other artists re-using his work in their own and the site www.carloszefiro. com.br, undertaking a serious work of collective archaeology, publishing virtual versions of catechisms sent in by collectors. From simple 'catechisms', the author's designs have turned somewhat cult. "It's not just the those that grew up with Zéfiro who are looking to uncover fond memories. Younger generations, too, search for the 'cult' cachet, the nostalgia and - why not? - the 'innocence' that characterised his work," believes Felipe. ,&

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ECLECTIC TRIO NATEMA JOINS THE SECOND EDITION OF BABY BITCH

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A poignant thought for the day, but, for the time being at least, it seems that everyone wants a bit of Natema – and not only that; the band recently accepted a proposal from a most eligible bachelor of the music world, and will launch in September their first, 4-track EP with the young Brasilian label Club66 Records. So forgive me for referring to their up-andcoming trip to Paris, where they’ll play at La Bellevilloise, as a pre-emptive honeymoon. Natema have come a long way in a very short time. The band itself was born in London, but all three of the key members – Luis, 25, Wellington, 34 (both producers), and Pedro, 30 (percussion), actually hail from Brasil. Indeed, the band’s unique and unforgettable face wear is a major talking point; the fringed, leather-tipped masks they wear are, like their name, inspired in the traditions of northeastern Brasil. Tetto is unequivocal about the pivotal role London has played for the group, who have come to fuse traditional Brasil rhythms and instruments with electro beats: “Here you’ve got all these different cultures colliding, and all these people sampling different things‌ and there’s a real exchange going on.â€? Whatever the recipe, the cake definitely tastes good. And you can get a piece on 17th September when Natema join JoĂŁo Brasil and DJ Glittah and for a night of Brasilian mayhem at Jungle’s raucous Baby Bitch party. ,& D[ #PC 0CQOK

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R E L E A S I N G

Viva Cuba!

This box set includes 7 films by some of Cuba’s best-regarded filmmakers, including Tomás Gutièrrez Alea and Humberto Solás. Films in the set are: Beloved, Cecilia, Che Guevara as You Have Never Seen Him Before, The Death of a Bureaucrat, A Successful Man, The Twelve Chairs, and The Adventures of Juan Quin Quin.

Plan B

Argentine Marco Berger’s featurelength debut and film festival favourite Plan B sees Bruno’s attempts to win back his ex-girlfriend take an unexpected turn when he befriends her handsome new boyfriend. “A smart, soulful comedy” Hollywood Reporter

Tony Manero

A sociopathic dancer will stop at nothing to win a talent contest and national exposure, amidst one of the darkest chapters in Chile’s modern history. Chilean director Pablo Larrain shows an astonishing use of cinematic technique in only his second film. Tony Manero is a brave, multilayered thriller that is tragic, blackly humorous, and utterly compelling. “A beastly good film.” The Times

In the Pit

This poignant and moving tale of workers building Mexico City’s inner Periferico freeway is a revelation. The worker’s gentle sense of humour in the face of their vast and dangerous work, together with their poverty-stricken lives, is in turn both heart warming and electrifying. “Breathtaking” Time Out

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768@ L>I= 6 E:G;:8I 7:6I MARCELO D2 RETURNS TO THE UK EXCITED TO PLEASE THE ENGLISH CROWDS Brasilians will no doubt be all too familiar with the name Marcelo D2, the ex-Planet Hemp member renowned for his blending hip hop with samba. His time with Planet Hemp transformed the musician, but it’s obvious that there are now other priorities. If before the biggest cause was the legalisation of marijuana, today the his image has changed: a Brasilian artist of international acclaim, stylish appearance and even father of a family, what with his children’s occasional showbiz appearances. To contradict any mainstream image, he launched his latest album, A Arte de Fazer Barulho (The Art of Making Noise). You have to be provocative, to show all this being a celebrity malarkey doesn’t mean anything. And it’s on the wave of this album that he’ll appear in London this month. Following a lull of five years, the singer finally returns to these shores. The last time was for JD’s 3 year anniversary celebration. “I loved playing London at the Marquee Club, it was amazing. Led Zeppelin and Jimi Hendrix played there! For me this city has the strongest music scene�, says D2. And he’s every motive to be excited. Since 2005 he’s toured 21 countries promoting his music. But if to Brasilians the artists sound is original, what does it mean to foreign ears – how can the melody of samba fit to the direct lyrics of rap? He’ll be coming to win over the Greeks and Trojans. “Last time I performed here the vast majority of the audience was Brasilian. Now I’ve got a show which I’d really like the English crowd to see� he reflected, almost without pause going on to speak of the different musical styles which he’s been incorporating: regional or universal it doesn’t matter, hip hop samples anything. Fan of London that he is, D2 admits he’s “been missing� the city, happy to be coming back. With a laugh he warns: “we’re gonna make some noise!�, playful as if he were still that naughty boy of ten years ago. ,& &+ ,WPING&TWOU H:EI:B7:G '%&%

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A6J<=>C< >C HID8@ BRASILIAN DUO FLAMINGO FEATHER PERFORMS FOR PEACE OF MIND If you've not yet heard of Flamingo Feather, you better take note and partake. This Brasilian-British duo, IIana Gorban and Simon Rice, explore different means of communication via performance. They form Flamingo Feather, a theatre company using interdisciplinary methods to devise original works that explore psychological well-being. This September sees various new events: on the 14th, prepare yourself for a literally hilarious experience: a laughing session at the Book Club (7.30pm, £5). Using techniques to provoke genuine laughter, the session focuses on mental health; after all, laughter is the best medicine. On Sept 17th, the pair presents ‘Chasing Your Tale’ at the Wellcome Collection, the result of work with a psychiatrist, highlighting positive solutions for anxiety and depression. They then head to Brasil to research models of social inclusion related to performance. ,& 8=6H>C< NDJG I6A: H:EI &,I=! ,EB! ;G:: L:AA8DB:8DAA:8I>DC#DG<

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presents

Friday 17th September 2010 ROOM 1

DJ MARKY &FRIENDS DJ Marky The Nextmen & MC Wrec Commix Wrongtom MCs: GQ, SP:MC ROOM 2

ROOM 3

Goldie & MC Lowqui Friction Macpherson Fabio Sabre Zero T MCs: AD, MC Fokus

Pinch Jack Sparrow Cyrus Heny G Exodus

fabric. 77a Charterhouse Street / London, EC1 £15 (£10 students/fabricfirst) £6 after 3am Tickets avalaible from www.fabriclondon.com

The star of City of God and Wes Anderson’s Life Aquatic (where his acoustic Bowie covers won him many new fans) returns to London with his new project. Jorge’s new album and show puts a Brazilian curved free-kick spin on the works of Roy Ayers, Kraftwerk and Michael Jackson and others. “Absolutely brilliant” Gilles Peterson BBC Radio 1 “Feels like a future classic” The Arts Desk.

www.comono.co.uk 0844 482 8008

Ana Moura The new voice of Fado Thursday 4 November Union Chapel

Doors 7pm Compton Terrace N1 2UN 08444 771 000 www.comono.co.uk

Adriana Calcanhotto Trobar Nova Monday 25 October Union Chapel

Doors 7pm Compton Terrace N1 2UN 08444 771 000 www.comono.co.uk www.wegottickets.com

Dalton Ghetti gets straight to the point - literally. Like the needle head sculptures of Englishman Willard Wigan, the Brasilian-born artist (now residing in the US) also fine tuned the art of miniature masterpieces with his extraordinary pencil sculptures. When Jungle spoke to Ghetti he’d just finished chiselling a single tear drop from a pencil tip as part of a painstaking project inspired by the 9/11 attacks, making one a day

for each victim. His patience is unparalleled; having begun in 2002, he expects it to take a decade to complete, and whilst other works have taken up to two and a half years, he reflects that each teardrop “is simple, and doesn’t take too long”. He carves the intricate designs using just a razor blade and a needle. Without the aid of a magnifying glass. Occasionally works can break before completion. “I don’t keep track of how many pencils I break, but I do

keep a Cemetery Collection”, broken pieces glued to the heads of pins. The graphite creations are eclectic and varied; his inspiration comes from whatever’s around him. Micro-marvels include a bust of Elvis and an entire alphabet. Despite such time-consuming work, Ghetti considers himself a carpenter by trade, citing sculpting as “just a hobby”, giving rise to his tools series - including a nail, saw and hammer. ,& D[ %CTQNKPG /CLQT

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In 2009, former Far Out Recordings manager Mais Um Gringo (Lewis Robinson) set out on a mission to explore the farthest corners of the blogosphere and discover new Brasilian sounds. Then he jumped on a plane and re-traced his footsteps in person. Oi! A Nova Música Brasileira is the result of these travels. An eclectic insight into the many musical movements, Oi! explores every corner, from Amazonian surf-rock to dubby electronica of Pernambuco’s manguebeat scene. Fascinating, but not always easy, listening. There’s something here to suit every taste. But the downside is that, with little or no continuity from one song to the next, listening to the whole album is a bit like driving from São Paulo to Salvador in a car with a slightly broken radio. It’s certainly not a wasted journey, but a bit of a rough ride. ,& D[ 6QO %TQQMUVQP

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BRASILIAN STREET ART TAKES OVER THE WALLS OF THE PRESTIGIOUS MUBE MUSEUM IN SÃO PAULO

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The first time graffiti artist Mister Dheo went out “bombing” was in the dead of night, splashing cheap supermarket paint on the walls of an abandonded São Paulo factory. “I didn’t even have a name yet. I just wanted to paint, and to feel that adrenaline. I was young, and it was totally different from how it is now”. Times have changed indeed. A decade later, Dheo doesn’t have to creep around when he wants to leave

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são paulo graffiti special his mark. This month, his work will feature alongside 65 other street artists at São Paulo’s innaugural Graffiti Fine Art Biennale, held at the city’s prestigious museum of sculpture, MuBE. The exhibition, brainchild of veteran Brasilian aerosol-friend Fabio Ribeiro, aka Binho, gathers together some of Brasil’s most exciting urban talent for a month-long exploration of the increasingly thin line between Fine Art and Street Art. Alongside a series of discussions and screenings of classic graffiti films like “Wild Style” and “Invasão,” the Biennale brings the work of grafiteiros like osgemeos and Zezão in from the cold

and places it where many feel it truly belongs: the walls inside galleries like MuBE. Despite the worldwide fame of many of the country’s grafiteiros – just think of the osgemeos’ mural that adorned the front of London’s Tate Modern in 2008 – many feel that Brasil’s art establishment still doesn’t recognise graffiti as legitimate art. “For me, art should be seen without judgement”, says the exhibition’s art director, Andre Luis Monteiro de Carvalho. “In everyday life, in the streets, people are passing by and they’re on autopilot: they’re switched off to their surroundings. The museum environment provides the time and respect

the work deserves”. As well as encouraging the fine art world to engage with graffiti, the biennale has also helped the grafiteiros to engage with new ways of working that go beyond spraying paint onto walls, thanks to MuBE’s famous sculpture garden, where visitors can wander among new works in glorious 3-D technicolor by artists like Rui Amaral, NINA and Alex Hornest. “Alex who?”, you might well ask yourself. And it’s a fair question. But another of the exhibition’s goals is to highlight some of the lesser-known stars in the seemingly endless galaxy of Brasilian graffiti talent. For Tristan

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A VETERAN STREET ARTIST NOW TURNED CURATOR OF THE EXHIBITION

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Manco, author of the “Graffiti Brasil” book that help launch many of these artists’ international careers, this is a long-overdue development. “Graffiti art in Brasil is finally getting the attention it deserves locally, and other countries can take inspiration from this. And while we know there is much more talent besides the well known names, the fact that osgemeos are one of the biggest names in global graffiti naturally draws attention to Brasilian talent as a whole.” So what is it about Brasil’s urban art scene that makes it so special? Andre, who lived for

15 years in the original graffiti mecca, New York City, is well-placed to judge: “There’s definitely something unique about Brasilian graffiti – it’s marginalized in other countries, but not in the same way. It’s different being broke in New York and being broke in Brasil”. For Andre, it’s the difference that gives Brasilian artists their hunger to get out there and paint. It’s tempting to try and play this game of spot-the-difference at the MuBE exhibition, which features major players from Portugal, Japan, Chile and the UK alongside a strong

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são paulo graffiti special Brasilian team. But for the show’s creators and curators, it’s more about highlighting the similarities, and the international connections that graffiti thrives on in the 21st century. ‘‘Essentially it’s about exchange’’, proclaims the museum’s director of international relations, Renata Azevedo Silva. “Exchange between the graffiti world and the fine art world, exchange between Brasilian artists and their counterparts around the world”. This sense of exchange has already left its mark on the city beyond the museum’s walls, with an international group of the exhibition’s artists collaborating

on a huge mural at a local train station in the Bras neighborhood. According to Renata, this is an opportunity that many of the grafiteiros have never had before. “The artists are just discovering this world of international recognition and collaboration, it’s new to them, but it’s exciting and they’re enthusiastic. It’s not the main thing, though. The main thing for them is still the pleasure of getting out there and creating art”. Mister Dheo agrees: “I prefer painting in the street to painting in a gallery, for sure – and I’ll always prefer it. For me, nothing

compares to the street and any artist who started out there will agree with me. It was great to create something at MuBE but if I don’t get out there for a while I don’t feel right. It’s out in the streets where I feel 100% happy and free”. But the grafiteiro understands why exhibitions like the Graffiti Fine Art biennale are important. “We’re trying to give the public the opportunity to really see what graffiti is, what it involves, how it’s made, and to promote the kind of conversation between this public and the artists which is basically impossible without this kind of

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retranca são paulo graffiti special event. After this conversation, I think ordinary people will start to see the art that surround them differently, and graffiti will be more and more valued”. The sculpture museum seems like the perfect place for this conversation to happen. One of São Paulo’s most respected and revered exhibition spaces, its modernist concrete structures make it an ideal venue for the world of fine art to meet the world of street art. For Andre, it’s one of the least difficult exhibitions he’s ever had to curate. “From an art direction point of view it wasn’t

much of a challenge. The work is amazing; the colours are great… it was easy. It’s just gonna be heart-breaking to take it all down in a month’s time!” His colleague Renata isn’t worried, though. After all, this is only the city’s first Graffiti biennale, and she’s sure it won’t be the last. “The last thing I want to say is that there’ll be another one in two years. And I certain that one will be even better”. ,& &HI >CI:GC6I>DC6A 7>:CC>6A D; <G6;;>I> ;>C: 6GI (gY HZei " (gY DXi '%&% BJ7:#6GI#7G

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homeless world cup

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HOMELESS WORLD CUP ARRIVES IN BRASIL OFFERING MORE THAN SCORING OPPORTUNITIES Rio de Janeiro won’t need to wait until 2014 to host a football world championship. Between the 19th and 26th of September, Copacabana will be the stage for the Homeless World Cup, which will mark its eighth edition with 64 teams challenging for the trophy. Unlike what happened in South Africa, however, Spain is not even among the teams taking part in the tournament. Instead, countries such as Haiti, Palestine, Lithuania and Kyrgyzstan are in the frame. “We thought we could make up a language for homeless people that only they could understand. There is an international language and it’s football”, explains Mel Young, founder and president of the championship. A few years ago, Young successfully introduced the Big Issue magazine in Scotland, and was hoping to use the Homeless World Cup to bring into

public discussion the issue of homelessness. But it’s not just its objectives that differentiates this championship from the famous World Cup in which Brasil has triumphed 5 times - as a matter of fact, the country has never won the HWC trophy, unlike surprising packages such as as Afghanistan and Ukraine. Instead of 11 players a-side, only four play on the pitch. Each half of the match lasts seven minutes. There will also be a further prize for five coaches who best encourage fair play. In order to take part in the Homeless World Cup, the players (male or female) must be at least 16 and have experienced an unstable social situation in the last year. Each country creates their own selection process, which in Brasil is coordinated by the on-Governmental Organisation Futebol Social. “This is an opportunity for those on the street to slip out of the margins and into the centre of the city onto a global stage and feel real”, says Mel. The stories of young people who started

A CUP ENDORSED BY LEGENDS

a football career after having competed in the Homeless World Cup are not few and far between. This is the case of Michelle da Silva, from the shanty town of Cidade de Deus in Rio de Janeiro, who after having participated in the Cup in Copenhagen in 2007, secured a place in the under 20s national team. “The impact is consistently significant year on year with 73% of players changing their lives for the better by coming off drugs and alcohol, moving into jobs, education, homes, training and reuniting with families”, highlights Young. Every edition of the Homeless World Cup leaves a legacy for the nation that sheltered it. In Brasil a community centre will be constructed in Santa Cruz, the town with the lowest Human Development Index in Rio de Janeiro. In São Paulo, there will be and a small factory manufacturing products with surplus materials from Nike, the sports multinational and one of the event’s sponsors. ,&

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São Paulo graffiti tour

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8H?=>J;D TRAVEL AGENCIES TAKE TOURISTS TO DISCOVER THE AMAZING COLOURFUL WALLS OF SÃO PAULO Hometown to graffiti artists such as osgemeos, Tinho and Speto and new stars São Paulo’s streets boast a rich diversity in relation to the technique, lines and colours of its graffiti, something which stands out to the eyes of any visiting tourist. And it was in considering this that tourism agencies have already specialised in tours dedicated to the city’s street art. Take for example Soul Sampa, an agency responsible for organising a walking tour which explores the streets of Vila Madalena. “The route’s never the same given that street art is so ephemeral, meaning the route changes a great deal depending on where the most relevant pieces of graffiti art are”, explains Thiago Cyrino, co-founder of Soul Sampa. But JungleDrums has also prepared )' ,WPING&TWOU H:EI:B7:G '%&%

some graffiti routes through the city of São Paulo for those who appreciate street art. Check it out below.

Cambuci | (Hot tip: go to Vila Mariana metro station and from there catch the bus on route 574A-10 Largo do Cambuci). Cambuci is a mandatory stop for all who appreciate graffiti. The neighbourhood is the hub for talented urban artists São Paulo, such as osgemeos, Finok and Nunca. The circuit’s principal streets are Lavapés and Justo Azambuja, replete with work by the crews VLOK and ANX, with the highlights being osgemeos, Finok and Coyo. Despite being located in a central region of the city, Camuci is a peaceful district and there’s no problem in walking around the

streets on foot. Start the route in Largo do Cambuci and carry on to Rua Luis Gama. Note on the right-hand side the two-storey high building with really old works by Victhé, osgemeos, Flip and the American Jonone. Carry straight on and turn right down Rua Cesário Ramalho, then soon on the left down Rua dos Alpes, where the beautiful work by artist Vitché and graffiti artist Jana Joana is located. Continue along Rua dos Alpes and then, on the corner of Rua Silveira da Mota, check out the work by Chileans Cekis and Grim, who painted with distorted perspective a houses, figures of people and pink coloured clouds. On this very same wall, going round the corner is another work by Vitché and Jana Joana. Follow Rua Silveira da Mota, then turn right into Rua Luis Gama. Keep your eyes

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São Paulo graffiti tour peeled for writing by osgemeos, Coyo, Xabu, Finok, Amigo and Ise. Carry on along Luis Gama, turn left on Rua Dom Romualdo de Seixas and you’ll see a house, painted by Fiok, with his fun green characters. Continue on the tour and turn left at Rua Vieira Ravasco. Head towards Rua Justo Azambuja, where immediately in front there is a work by Finok, Ise and Coyo. Keep going until the corner of Rua Silveira da Mota, where in an enormous structure, is the classic giant yellow character produced by the duo osgemeos, together with lettering by Ise, Coyo and Wozy, from Greece. Go down Justo Azambuja and, on the corner of LavapÊs, look at the mural of the famous characters by osgemeos with Gueto, Finok, Coyo, Nina, Ise and Nunca. On LavapÊs itself,

heading away from the piece, there are cats by the artist Minhau with a figure by Chivitz.

Pinheiros/Vila Madalena districts (ClĂ­nicas Station) Vila Madalena has always had a strong artistic vein. Walking through the streets, it’s possible to come across paintings by John Howard (the legendary North American, over 70 years old, and one of the art pioneers in Brasil), and other foreigners that generate art tourism in the capital SĂŁo Paulo. The main attractions are located in so-called ‘Batman’s Alley’ and Vila Madalena. The latter is undergoing renovation which begun at the start of the year and is due to finish in December, providing visitors with

the enormous opportunity to see artists painting in the area. We start this route leaving from Clínicas metro station. Head in the direction of Rua Cardeal Arcoverde, go down the street, and you’ll begin to notice some throw ups – works completed rapidly and with few colours, generally illegally – by osgemeos, Finok and Xabu. Continue on down and just after Rua Capote Valente, on the large steps of Rua Cristiano Viana, you’ll observe yet more throw-ups: classics by osgemeos, Vicio, Ise, Xabu and Não. Carry on along Cardeal Arcoverde and then take a left on Rua João Moura, and at no.997 you’ll find Choque Cultural, the famous gallery of São Paulo street art.

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São Paulo graffiti tour Following Cardeal Arcoverde, turn right into Rua Henrique Schaumann and continue to Avenida Paulo VI, where the Instituto Goethe’s huge collective work can be found, with work by Highraff, Tchais, Prozak, Dev and Não, amongst others. This mural also became known for its tribute to graffiti artist Niggaz, who died in 2003. Take a moment to inspect Niggaz’s work- preserved from the previous panel - a figure swimming in clouds. Head long Rua Henrique Schaumann and go down Rua Luis Murat. Turn right into Rua Harmonia and continue walking until you get to Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque, which together with Rua Gonçalo Afonso constitutes the famous Beco do Batman (Batman’s Alley). Take in works by Pato, Titi Freak, Chivitz, Boleta, Ciro, Dask, Espeto and Prozak. If you like, stop by Tag and Juice on Rua Gonçalo Afonso, no.99, which in addition to a very

attractive piece by Prozak on the shop’s front window, could also be a good place to wise up on urban culture in São Paulo. Leave Beco do Batman in the direction of Rua Aspicuelta and, on the steps, examine the famous heads by John Howard. Continue on and go down Rua Girassol, turn into Luis Murat, and carry on to Rua Belmiro Braga. Between the Beco and Vila Madalena be sure to check out the square. There you can find an enormous piece of work with a whale, by the artist Speto. Walk along the narrow road and admire works by Dev, John Howard, Ninguém Dorme and Boleta. Carry on to the end of the alleyway, which has works by Ciro, Titi Freak, Rodrigo Branco and Yeks. Leave the alley taking Padre João Gonçalves and continue into Rua Fidalga. Number 98 is the well-known Espaço +Soma, well-known for its work with street art.

City Centre | Sao Paulo’s city centre is also brimming with graffiti. The secret is to go by car, given that a lot of art is on main roads and in tunnels, which could make the journey rather dangerous. Some of the highlights are the end of Rua Consolação, with a wall with a piece by Pato and Ciro, followed by Claudio Ethos, Onesto and the VLOK and ANX crews. At the start of the exit heading towards Elevado Costa e Silva, also known as the Ligação Leste-Oeste (the East-West Link), is full of throw-ups by osgemeos, Finok, Toys, Ise, artist Peter and many others. At the Jaceguai flyover, next to Avenida 23 de Maio, there are the enormous works by Nina Pandolfo, osgemeos, Nunca, Zéfix and Finok. And for those big fans of osgemeos, it’s well worth heading to Vale do Anhangabaú, to see one of the pair’s beautiful giant pieces, created earlier this year. ,&

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BRASILIAN CHEF SHARES SECRETS OF HIS MOST EXOTIC BLENDS Contemporary cooking might be the word of the day but it is also very hard to come up with new ideas that work. Mixing flavours of different origins is a little risky. For example, how do you create harmony between seafood, coconut milk and curry? The Brasilian chef Carlos Ribeiro is a master of the art. In command at the restaurant Na Cozinha (‘in the kitchen’), in SĂŁo Paulo, he plays around at creating deliciously exotic dishes, like Italian pasta with palm oil, cod with bean paste and banana brownies. The teacher, who gives lessons in various universities all over the world, will be in London from the 16th-18th of September for Regent's College's International Events Forum. He'll hold an open lesson in gastronomy and teach how to prepare a Bahian moqueca and coffee pudding. Check out the full programme on the University’s website, but if you're really interested in Ribeiro's cooking, then move fast because readers of JD will get a small window of chance to win tickets for the Chef's workshop. Check out our competitions page for a chance to win! ,& KEY:

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[jaa d[ WZVch First, burgers did it. Now it’s the turn of burritos to go gourmet as this little place, naturally called Burrito Gourmet, just a minute from Putney station, has joined the Mexican wave of burrito stalls and fast food outlets cropping up over the city. And the friendly Mexican owners know what they’re up to, already running the successful Tacuba Bar and Restaurant over in Balham. This new joint serves filling food in a flash - the perfect lunchtime alternative to your standard sandwich or fried food. Simplicity is the key – you choose from a burrito, taco or nachos, pick your filling - chicken, steak, pork or veggie -, add your preferred homemade sauce - mild cream chipotle or spicy but sweet habanero chillo - and away you go. The Chicken Chipotle Burrito (£5) is slow cooked with with tomato and onion and then shredded. The more interesting Pork Pibil Burrito (£5.50) was indeed rather tasty, with the pork braised in an Achiote sauce made using orange, grapefruit and spices. If you prefer something more piquant, we'd recommend the beef filling (£5), with the Chilli Adobo and Guajillo creating a spicier flavour. And if you’re feeling hungry then opt for a burrito as opposed to taco as you get slightly more filling, or add on some guacamole (an extra 50p). Though not a place for a proper sit down meal there are bar stools to rest and munch, but really it is a place to come to for fresh, healthy fast food on the go; a great budget eat that hits the spot. 7JGG>ID <DJGB:I ''% JeeZg G^X]bdcY GdVY " HL&* +I9 :Vhi EjicZn 7JGG>ID<DJGB:I#8D#J@ ™ %'% -,-- +-'

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XVbYZc dVh^h Hard to believe, but right amongst all the commotion in Camden you can find a place for a calm dinner. With its vintage decor and a pleasant garden, Guanabana has the perfect atmosphere for you to relax with your friends or a date while enjoying amazing food created by the owner, Omar Shah. Omar used to work at his father’s Thai restaurant but two years ago he decided to open Guanabana. He's neither from the Caribbean nor Latin America, and it's precisely because of this that he researches the influences of and combines these cuisines, creating unique dishes only to be found here. For a starter try the Flying Adobo, tasty chicken wings served with sweet sauce (£4.25). For a main course there are numerous choices of meat, chicken and burgers, but the best option is the Grilled Snapper Fillet, crispy on the outside and extremely soft on the inside, perfectly combined with the sweet flavour of the baked plantains (£11.95). Another sea food option is the Pan fried Sea Bass fillets with garlic spring greens, feta cheese mash, and a delicious coconut herb sauce (£12.75). The restaurant doesn’t sell alcohol but you can bring yours. They also offer exotic juices. Try the Berry Breezer, made with mixed berries, guanabana and lime (£3.50), a very fresh combination. To end the night well, go for a desert, such as the Frittered bananas in spiced syrup, served with coconut ice cream or the Merengue fresh whipped cream & mixed berries.

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KPDQZ + ,WPING WPING LOVING THE SECRETS Top stuff again with the Secret London edition. The only London listings I use - LeCool and JD - together at last! Oliver Eccles, via email

Don't hesitate to send us your raves and rants! JungleDrums p.o. box 49713 london wc1x 8ww inbox@jungledrums.org SECRET DESTINATION Hello Jungle, Great talking to you! I took your advice and subscribed for a year - makes more sense and besides, I LOVE the magazine and always look forward to it every month. The content and topics are top class and very informative. I found the August issue particularly of interest as you covered stories on secret London and hidden pousadas in Brasil. Too bad I didn't know about it beforehand as I do a Secret Supper Club called Clandestinos (clandestinos. co.uk) and a Secret Guest House (thesecretguesthouse.com) in London... soon expanding to Rio! Also a coincidence that our last secret supper was a Brasilian-themed dinner party! I would love to be more involved with the Brasilian culture here in London and also to meet Brasilians that live both here and in Brasil (not just in Rio). Maybe I could organise a Brasilian cocktail evening at Clandestinos... Ciao for now, Cristian Hanif, via email That's amazing Christian, and your Secret Suppers are evidently living up to their name! We'd love to join you for a cocktail ; ) Jungle

Hi Jungle, We loved the review that Sally Coffey did of the 606 Club on p.31 of your Aug issue -yeah! The owner, Steve Rubie, who plays sax and flute, has his own Brasilian Band "Samara", and even two of our chefs come from Brasil. A couple of highlights for Sept are Jazz/Latin octet Guida de Palma’s Jazzinho on Mon 20th and Latin/ jazz sextet Samara on Fri 24th. Best wishes, Janet Mentzel, via email Wow Jungle, I so loved the magazine last month, the tips were fantastic and to be quite honest I didn't know the vast majority of the places! Priscila Salvino, via facebook TURNING JAPANESE Hi JD, It would be great to do some collaboration with JungleDrums and Ghetto Lounge (ghettolounge. blogspot.com), to have something like a Japan meets Brasil event because there is some history between us :) Meanwhile please have a listen to my radio show on openair.fm/ghetto-lounge Best regards, Koichi Sakai, via email Hi Jungle, I had the best time ever [in Japan], have you ever been there? I went with two Portuguese speakers, with whom I climbed Mount Fuji in the night. At one point, they heard some Brasilian, and swung their head torches towards where the voices were coming from to find a group of Japanese Brasilians, whom we followed up the mountain. Totally amazing. Best, Lucy Wood, via email

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DA>K>6 :B:H AN ENGLISH LASS SURROUNDED BY FILM AND MUSIC, EMBARKING UPON A BRASILIAN ADVENTURE What do you do for a living? I am a documentary film maker and facilitator. I have just finished three and a half years of working in television to return to running workshops with young people, helping them tell their stories through the medium of film. I also DJ and make music in my spare time. How did you find out about Jungle? An email mysteriously appeared in my inbox one day and a beautiful relationship blossomed from there. What's your favourite part of the magazine and why? I love all of it but particularly the Agenda which tells what's going on in London. It’s provided inspiration for some brilliant nights out!!

Do you have a connection to Brasil? I’m about to go and work at Cinema Nosso in Rio so will be living in Santa Teresa for the next three months. After that I plan to explore the rest of Brasil running workshops and filming various projects. Favourite Brasilian food/ drink/product? I think it has to be feijoada, although the first time I ate it I felt like I could sleep for a hundred years. I did eat enough for two people mind you! What’s the best Brasilian place in London? I was introduced to a great little restaurant in chalk farm called Spiritual which does the best caipirinhas I’ve ever tasted. ,&

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