adventure
In the Amazon with Bruce Parry eco-tourism
we go whale watching in bahia gastronomy
around Rio with a fork
10
top
beaches in brasil
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 1
editoria
2 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 3
editoria
marcelo reis nakashima
trips
contents
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joão viana
what’s on
38
hotels Four prize-winning luxury getaways WHALE WATCHING Try your luck and chase the Jubartes WORLD CUP IN BRASIL Is the Home of Football ready for 2014? GREAT BRASIL EXPRESS Travel in style: hop on the train GOLF AND SAILING Take a swing at the sporting life INCLUSIVE ADVENTURES The NGO offering extreme sports for all BRASIL. SENSATIONAL! Embratur’s UK director chats with us
09 10 12 15 16 17 18
IN THE KNOW TOP 5 - GRINGOES How not to stand out from the crowd NORONHA UNCOVERED New photos from the paradise island 24 HOURS IN CAMBORIÚ The fast guide to the Ibiza of the South CUCA BRAZUCA Rio’s culinary delights revealed INTERVIEW - CHRIS PICKARD A quick chat with a real tourism expert
21 22 23 24 27
FEATURES
24
TOP 10 - BEACHES IN BRASIL Counting down the best of the best
30
AMAZON BOAT TRIP An epic journey up the mighty river
38
INTERVIEW - BRUCE PARRY The intrepid explorer talks tribes
44
JALAPÃO - INTO THE WILD Take a trip to the centre of the country
46
HISTORY ON HORSEBACK Discovering Ouro Preto and Tiradentes
48
CHECKLIST BEFORE YOU GO Don’t forget to pick up these essentials WHAT TO BUY - OR NOT TO BUY The dos and don’ts of shopping in Brasil GETTING THERE We do the dirty work for you REVIEWS All the best books, guides and websites
ALEXANDRE CAMPBELL
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2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 5
6YkZcijgZ hedgih [jaan ^ciZ\gViZY l^i] CVijgZ# 6cY WZVX]Zh l^i] V adi d[ VXi^dc VcY \ddY add`^c\ eZdeaZ# I]^h ^h hZchVi^dcVa# I]^h ^h 7gVo^a# The Iguassu Falls, located in the State of Paraná, are a set of some 275 falls that form one of Nature’s greatest shows. Also an ideal place for rafting and adventure programs. Close by is the State of Santa Catarina. And one of its greatest postcards is Florianópolis, with its sensational beaches, excellent for surfing. On your next vacation, get prepared to know the Southern and other regions of Brazil.
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6 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
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editorial
publishing director Juliano Zappia editor Gabriel Silvestre destination@jungledrums.org COMMERCIAL MANAGER Letícia Sena leticia@jungledrums.org
seeing double Catching the tube in London and being greeted by a breathtaking Brasilian landscape is a wonderful surprise. But coming across two breathtaking Brasilian landscapes is even better. and that’s the idea behind Embratur’s new campaign - which is taking on the British market with newly gained confidence, fruit of the organisation’s research, planning and professionalism – to show that there’s more to Brasil than the picture postcards would suggest, and that tourists should prolong their stay to discover the many different facets that make Brasil one of the most fascinating countries in the world.
And their timing is perfect. Nowadays, it’s not just the local Brasilian hospitality that’s winning visitors over; the country’s infrastructure has developed greatly. I saw this for myself earlier this year when I twice had the opportunity to visit my own country as a tourist. I visited places that I’d never been to before, like
the well-preserved, enchanting Praia do Forte in Bahia, the impressive, colourful town of Natal, Rio Grande do Norte, and the vibrant and captivating Belém do Pará, gateway to the Amazon and the focus of this issue’s special article. The British are also aware of this change, so much so that more and more tourists are heading off to Brasil from the UK. The only thing that could possibly slow down this growth is the current economic crisis. But going to Brasil is really worthwhile. Compared to other far-off destinations airfares are very reasonable, and the options are multiplying every day. Brasil is about to become increasingly popular amongst European tourists and, as Embratur’s UK campaign shows, there’s more to the country than the Marvellous City: there are dozens of Brasilian holiday destinations waiting to be discovered. Discovered and rediscovered.
ART DIRECTOR Neni Almeida design@jungledrums.org EDITORIAL TEAM Adam Hirst, Bernardo Domingues, Fernando Duarte, Kat Joyce, Lorena Travassos, Milo Steelefox, Morena Madureira, Simone Pereira, Tainá Tonolli, Tati Lucena, Tom Crookston DESIGNERS Clarissa San Pedro Leidson Pelissari TRANSLATION Patrick Campbell ADVERTISEMENT Túlio Krause, Marcelo Peretti Juliana Calderon, Juliana Costa, Luís Quadros ad@jungledrums.org DISTRIBUTION Marcos (BRJet) distribution@jungledrums.org SUBSCRIPTION subscribe@jungledrums.org JUNGLE TRIPS’ CONTACT
juliano zappia, publisher
brasil with an
‘s’
Yes, that’s right, the word Brasil appears throughout this magazine spelt with an ‘s’ instead a ‘z’, as is customary in English. It may seem strange to begin with, but you’ll soon get used to it. The reason for this is simple: we want to show an authentic slice of Brasil - and the authentic Brasil can only be spelt with an ‘s’, just as it is in Portuguese.
020 7242 5140 info@jungledrums.org P.O.BOX 49713 LONDON WC1X 8WW Visit us at our special stand at Destinations, The Holiday & Travel Show, at Earls Court From February 5th 2009, in the Latin America section. Come and say hello!
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 7
what’s on
SECLUDED PONTA DOS GANCHOS (ABOVE) AND RELAXING AT KUROTEL (LEFT)
Perfect
Hideaways Brasilian hotels sweep prestigious luxury award words by Bernardo Pires Domingues
After a long trip across the Atlantic, nothing could be better than a cosy hotel to recharge your batteries. Jacuzzis, spa sessions, prize-winning cuisine and massage on the beach are just some of the attractions on offer at the Brasilian resorts, guest houses and spas that swept up prizes at the Condé Nast Johansens Annual Awards Ceremony, a bastion of the luxury tourism industry. Brasil was destination of choice in 4 out of the 5 South American categories, including Most Excellent Hotel, which was awarded to the Ponta dos Ganchos resort, in Governador Celso Ramos, close to Florianópolis. Situated on an exclusive stretch of coast and surrounded by breathtaking Atlantic
Rainforest, the hotel’s 25 bungalows are the perfect hideaway for anyone looking for rest, romance and great food. The Pousada do Toque, which won Most Excellent Beach Hotel, is located on another exclusive beach, in São Miguel dos Milagres, Alagoas. Its 13 charming chalets are fitted with jacuzzis, verandas and deckchairs. Rio Grande do Sul is home to the winners of the Most Excellent Spa Hotel and Most Excellent Lodge awards. The Kurotel, in the mountain town of Gramado, offers a 7-day dose of healthy living and natural medicines. In nearby São Franisco de Paula, the Pousada do Engenho has an ecological appeal, with 10 cabins situated in the middle of the forest. 2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 9
what’s on
THERE SHE goes
you’ve got to be quick, but when you spot a whale on the open sea in bahia it is an unforgettable experience. Just don’t forget to pop a pill words by PEDRO SCHUMAN photo by OSMAR MARCHETTI FERNANDES
Over the past ten years or so, whale watching has become a professional industry in Brasil, especially so in two regions: the coastline of Santa Catarina and at Praia do Forte, in Bahia. On the Bahian North Coast, the activity is coordinated and monitored by the Humpback Whale Institute (Instituto Baleia Jubarte), which aims to preserve the species and believes that whale watching is a great way of drawing the public’s attention to the commercial hunting of the animals, as well as bringing money into the regions involved. And it was at the institute’s headquarters that I first immersed myself in the world of the Humpback whale. The trip began with a lecture by a specialist explaining the migratory 10 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
routes of the whales, who flock to the warm waters of the Brasilian coast to reproduce during winter, on their way from the Antarctic. Afterwards, a group made up of people from an array of different backgrounds, the majority from abroad (from the UK and Spain, for example), watched a film to finish off the initial preparations, before heading out onto the wide open sea. As a precautionary measure, antiseasickness tablets were dished out before we headed off on the schooner, as the sea was very choppy. Even so, a British tourist vomited pretty much as soon as we headed off. I felt queasy myself and looked for a place to lie down, which alas meant that I missed
the best moment of the trip. A humpback whale jumped right out of the water, cried out into the air and belly-flopped back down again, bringing tears to the eyes of our German tour guide, who’d never seen anything quite like it before. According to him this kind of thing only ever happens roughly every five years. Not every group is as lucky as ours. Although the agencies offer your money back if you don’t spot a whale, a simple spurt of water in the middle of the ocean is classified as a sighting. The boat takes up to an hour to reach where the whales congregate and the same amount of time to reach land again. Once the humpbacks have been located, the boat’s engines are switched off. The whales
weather
SCORCHIO!
Since the release of BBC’s Fast Show, the word “scorchio” has entered the English language, conjuring up images of a fictitious country that’s sunny and warm all year long, as opposed to the often drab UK. Well, this country exists and it has a name: Brasil! Don’t believe us? Read on: WINTER‘08 UK: February 17th - London has its coldest day of the year, with a minimum of - 3°C. On the same date, the lowest recorded temperature in Newcastle is - 4°C and in Manchester - 7°C. BR: February 17th - Temperatures reach up to 30°C on Florianópolis’ 42 immaculate beaches. The city, located in the Brasilian south, is considered the coldest in the country.
Two Conservation Stories can only be watched for 20 minutes at a time, which left some tourists frustrated, as they’d spent three hours in all on the schooner, either feeling seasick or eating the fruit and cream crackers offered to them by the trip’s organisers. My suggestion is to combine whale watching with a trip to another local environmental programme: Project Tamar, which focuses on the conservation of marine turtles, and also happens to be located at Praia do Forte, close to where the schooner set off to sea. Visiting both organisations on the same day is not only possible, it’s advisable for anyone with the slightest interest in the environment and looking to interact with nature. Whalewatching Centrotour R$ 144 per person +55 71 3676 1091 www.centrotour.com.br
The Humpback Whale Institute (Instituto Baleia Jubarte) grew out of a project which aimed to protect and study the marine mammal, which was discovered in southern Bahia. After several sightings off the north coast, a second base was set up in 2001 at Praia do Forte, where Projeto Tamar has been working for 19 years to help preserve marine turtles. baleiajubarte.org.br projetotamar.org.br
Spring’08: UK: April 6th - The M56 is closed in both directions and 50 British Airways flights are cancelled at London Heathrow Airport as both runaways are shut due to snow. BR: April 6th - The top average temperature in Salvador is 29°C. Tourists and locals enjoy a warm Autumn Sunday at the city’s main leisure spots. Summer’08: UK: The Met Office registers the dullest and the fifth wettest August since records began in 1929, with 139.8mm of rainfall and Northern Ireland hit by flooding. BR: Average rainfall during August (Winter in Brasil) in the resort town of Natal is 81mm, with temperatures as high as 31°C and an average of 12 hours of sunshine per day. Autumn’08: UK: October 27th - Snow sweeps across the UK and strikes London for the first time in October since 1934, as a blast of Arctic air hits the capital. BR: October 27th - A group of friends meet up at Botafogo beach in Rio de Janeiro to play football at 8:00pm. The thermometer reads 31°C
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 11
what’s on
5
brasil 2014
Diary
world cup
Brasilians are known worldwide for their joie de vivre; no wonder then that there are so many events and festivities all year long across the country. The list could have gone on indefinitely, but we’ve limited ourselves to five of the best events.
football is finally coming home! (to the country that got it from the brits and made it more exciting)
New Year’s Eve in Rio 31st December Millions of revellers descend on the beaches of Rio to watch fireworks, offer flowers to the sea goddess Iemanjá and enjoy free live concerts.
words by Lorena Travassos illustration by natan heber
As London taxpayers know far too well, the lead-up to a major event like the Olympics is long, controversial and anxiety-provoking. Brasilians will get a taste of this next year, when the cities set to host the World Cup 2014 matches will be announced. For years the country had clamoured to host the world’s biggest footballing tournament, despite having organised the event over 50 years ago and going on to win 5 World Cup titles, as well as coming second twice and being the only team to compete in every finals so far. The fans’ enthusiasm is another important factor that should assure a festive atmosphere during the tournament. After it was confirmed last year that the country would host the next World Cup, the next step was deciding which cities the event will take place in. The CBF (Brasilian Football Confederation) will choose 10 or 12 venues from a list of 18 pre-selected cities by March 2009. The competition is so fierce that in-fighting has already broken out between the different candidate-cities, since the event will bring greater tourism and economic benefits to the regions involved. 12 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
dates
for your
Carnival in Recife & Olinda 19th - 24th February Street parades play frevo and maracatu rhythms. Recife and Olinda are an alternative to the over-hyped Carnivals in Rio and Salvador, but still attract nearly two million people.
The cities are all being analysed rigorously by a FIFA committee, to assure the smooth running of the tournament. The criteria being taken into consideration includes everything from the condition of the home stadiums, which have to have VIP stands and press rooms, to parking facilities and public transport to assure easy access for fans. The CBF aims to spend £600 million renovating all the chosen stadiums. Belo Horizonte, São Paulo, Porto Alegre and Rio de Janeiro seem to be in with the best chance. The majority of the other cities, like Floriaópolis, Natal and Salvador, all offer football fans a wide range of beautiful beaches to relax at between games. Other less likely candidates include Cuiabá and Rio Branco. In the midst of all this debate, it would appear that a consensus has been reached. The final is set to take place at Maracanã Stadium in Rio de Janeiro, where fans are hoping for an ending very different from Brasil’s tragic defeat at the 1950 World Cup.
Festas Juninas all over Brasil During June Celebrate the days of St Anthony, St John and St Peter with bonfires, traditional food, and dancing. The countryside towns Caruaru and Campina Grande throw the biggest parties. FLIP Literary Festival in Paraty July Liz Calder, co-founder of London-based publisher Bloomsbury, set up the annual literary festival in the seaside town of Paraty, which has attracted authors like Will Self and Salman Rushdie. TIM Festival in Rio & São Paulo October Conceived as a jazz festival in 1992, it has stretched to incorporate different styles of music. Arctic Monkeys and Klaxons were recent headliners.
Salvador is said to have 365 churches. Once you have been here, you’ll understand why we thank God so much.
SOFITEL SALVADOR
Res er v a t i on s :
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+55 (71) 2106-8500 or reservas.sofitelsalvador@accor.com.br R. Passárgada S/n - Itapuã - Salvador www.sofitel.com.br
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If the northeast of Brazil was a show, this would be the best seat in the house. RANCHO DO PEIXE
RANCHO DO PEIXE
vila kalango
Vila Kalango and Rancho do Peixe are the best places for you to experience the whole beauty of the rustic Jericoacoara region in absolute comfort. Enjoy kitesurfing lessons, horseback riding, massage, a top class restaurant - or just relax in your hammock content in the knowledge that you’re in the right place.
www.vilakalango.com.br + 00 55 (88) 3669 2289
www.ranchodo peixe.com.br + 00 55 (88) 3660 3118
RANCHO DO PEIXE
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 13
Our cuisine may well look like a work of art. But nobody has ever been able to just contemplate it. SOFITEL SALVADOR
Reservations: +55 (71) 2106-8500 or reservas.sofitelsalvador@accor.com.br R. Passรกrgada S/n - Itapuรฃ - Salvador www.sofitel.com.br
Curitiba to paranaguÁ The 110 km route through the Atlantic Rainforest is a feat of modern railway engineering and amazing views
CURITIBA
The green capital of the south is where the journey starts
VÉU Da NOIVA station
VÉU DA NOIVA waterfall
The beauty of the Atlantic Rainforest unfolds to passengers
It’s the Journey
that Counts
SÃO jOÃO bridge
SANTUÁRIO DO CADEADO
A hike to this vantage point offers breathtaking views
Brasil’s first luxury trains travel to natural beauty spots and historic cities off the beaten track words by Tati Lucena & Gabriel Silvestre
Generally, when people go on holiday they can’t wait to reach their destination. But what if it’s the journey itself that counts? From the elegant Orient Express to the infinite Trans-Siberian railway, train journeys have captured the imagination of travellers across the world. But for a country like Brasil with little rail transport, this kind of trip has never seemed particularly appealing. A few months ago, the first luxury trains began running in Brasil, taking in the natural beauty of the Atlantic Forest and historical cities in Paraná, in the south of the country. The investment comes care of local and European rail companies, who are offering package trips from Rio to Iguaçú Falls by air, train and luxury coach. The train compartments recall the extravagance of the colonial period; polished wood, silk curtains, velvety 17th Century-style sofas and seats and
copies of Debret and Rugendas. The roof, which was hand-painted, features depictions of Brasil’s flora and fauna and the seats are covered in leather and stuffed with goose feathers. To one side of the bar, a plasma screen shows live footage of the landscape being left behind in the distance. What’s more, each compartment has three polyglot stewards who serve fine wines, aged whiskey and champagne. Traditional Brasilian dishes like Barreado, a mixture of meat and vegetables cooked in an earthenware jar and served with seafood, are available on board. The railway is divided into two parts. The first sets out from Curitiba and crosses the Atlantic forest towards the coast along steep hills and cliffs. The second stage takes in colonial cities and national parks in the Brasilian countryside before winding up at the impressive Iguaçú falls, a dramatic backdrop that ends the voyage in style.
MARUMBI station
The gateway to the Marumbi National Park
MORRETES station
Historic and laidback Morretes is a gem on the way to the coast
paranaguá station
The journey ends at the best place to sample the local food
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 15
what’s on
THE WHOLE IN ONE
new websites promote Brasil as the complete package for sports travellers words by Morena Madureira & Gabriel Silvestre
Sports tourism is one of the fastest growing sectors of the travel industry. After all, what better excuse can you think of for going on holiday than for the exercise? Lovers of golf, for example, get to soak up the landscape whilst practicing their swing. In the States, the golfing travel industry rakes in around £15 billion per year, with Europeans spending around £1.5 billion. With an eye on this lucrative market, and with the breathtaking Brasilian landscape on their side, the Brazilian Tourist Office has set up an exclusive site to promote golfing holidays in the country, allowing visitors to compare different golf courses and offering
suggestions on how to balance your practice with sight-seeing. How’s about hanging up your clubs and going for a dip in the sea at one of the many deserted beaches in Trancoso, Bahia? Or why not visit the imposing Iguaçú Falls? The homepage helps golfers discover a little-known side of Brasil - which is also a land of greens, pars and tees. Another sporting activity that’s been given its own site is nautical tourism. With five thousand miles of coastline replete with islands and rivers, an amenable climate (free from natural phenomena like hurricanes) and fascinating landscapes, the country is ideal for sailing. In 2006, a presidential decree was passed to allow foreign boats to spend up to two years at a time in
Brasilian marinas and ports, meaning that owners can leave their boats there when they depart and go sailing again during their next trip. This kind of visitor spends on average 5 times more than conventional tourists and gets to know several different regions per trip. The site includes travel tips with full information on each destination, including history, climate and local highlights, plus useful information for sailors, such as tidal charts, maps and weather forecasts. The Tourist Office’s strategy is to attract visitors through their favourite pastimes, safe in the knowledge that once they’ve soaked up the beautiful views they’ll inevitably come back for more.
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5
courses in brasil
For many people, going to Brasil is an intense experience in itself, but why not bring back something more lasting than a mere souvenir by learning something of the local culture? We’ve selected some of the best courses available in three of the most popular Brasilian cities: Salvador - the city has the richest African heritage in Brasil; there are Afro-Brasilian artforms wherever you look. But rather than just standing and watching, get dancing! Capoeira: Grupo de Capoeira Angola do Acupe
true challenge NGO breaks the mould and brings the spirit of inclusion to those that need it most
capoeiraangolaacupe.com
Dance of the Orixás: Escola de Dança Fundação Cultural do Estado da Bahia fundacaocultural.ba.gov.br/espacos/escola.htm
Percussion: Associação Educativa e Cultural Didá projetodida.org
words by Milo Steelefox
Overcoming the challenge and facing the thrill of extreme sports can be physically and mentally daunting, but what if you had a disability? Access to such an experience would be improbable, but through the work of the NGO Aventura Especial in Brasil, many individuals now have the opportunity to reap the rewards this type of activity can bring. Aventura Especial aims to transform the tourism industry to accommodate people with all forms of special needs, allowing them to partake in outdoor activities as diverse as abseiling, rafting and off-road driving in 4x4s. And one of the biggest challenges the NGO faces is reversing public perception, to show that such pursuits can be truly life-changing
experiences for one and all, In 2000 there were an estimated 24.5 million people in Brasil considered as having some form of special needs, accounting for 14.5% of the population. And it is a spirit of inclusion and inspiration that Aventura Especial seeks to implement, aiming for physical rehabilitation, as well as the social and psychological recuperation of the individual. The NGO has gone from strength to strength, raising awareness online, through partnerships and a series of projects with the Ministry of Tourism in Brasil. To find out more about the project and how you can support the NGO, simply visit their website. www.aventuraespecial.org.br
Rio de Janeiro - the home of the world’s largest Carnival also has a fantastic range of restaurants. Spice up your life and then burn off the calories by dancing samba. Cooking: Cozinha Criativa cozinhacriativa.com
Samba: Casa de Samba Carlinhos de Jesus carlinhosdejesus.com.br
Recife - as well as beautiful beaches, Recife also has one of Brasil’s most popular Carnival celebrations. Forget samba - Recife is the land of frevo, a frenetic dance that makes a big impression on the dance floor. Balé Popular do Recife nandoagra.sites.uol.com.br
what’s on
travel
shorts
Temple of Football In a country where football often replaces religion, the only thing missing was a temple dedicated to the sport. Opened just over a month ago, the Football Museum at Pacaembu Stadium in São Paulo was inspired in part by the National Football Museum in Preston, using technology to attract fans of all ages. museudofutebol.org.br 2016 Olympic Games After the well-organised 2007 Pan American Games and the confirmation of the 2014 World Cup, Rio de Janeiro is now hoping to host the 2016 Olympic Games. In June, the International Olympic Committee announced that the city was one of the four finalists in the dispute to host the event, alongside Chicago, Madrid and Tokyo. The final decision will be announced in October 2009. rio2016.org.br
A New Sensation Embratur’s UK director reveals THEIR new strategy to attract more visitors to Brasil words by Morena Madureira PHOTO by ERIKA TAMBKE
Rio Touristic Bus Like other tourist destinations across the world, Rio de Janeiro will now have a fleet of tourist buses travelling between the city’s landmarks, with bus passes valid for one day or more. The Secretary of Tourism hopes to choose the companies involved in time for summer 2009. Definite stop-offs include Sugarloaf Mountain, the seafront and the Botanic Gardens. riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br
“Backpackers, students, eco-tourists or visitors looking for luxury, Brasil has something for everyone. The only thing we don’t have is snow”, explains Glauco Chris Fuzinatto, director of the United Kingdom and Ireland branch of Embratur, the Brasilian tourist office, revealing the strategy behind the second phase of the “Brasil, Sensational!” campaign, launched in September.
New Budget Airline With an initial investment of £130 million, Azul Airlines will start operating in Brasil from January 2009. A project dreamt up by US company JetBlue, the airline will use the same concept that made its American counterpart a leader on the US budget airline market. The company announced that it hopes to offer 25 direct routes from Rio de Janeiro over the next few years. voeazul.com.br
According to research carried out by Embratur, Brasil exceeded the expectations of 84% of foreign visitors, and 96% intend on returning to the country at a later date, over half to visit different regions. The new PR campaign combines firm favourites such as Rio and Salvador with other, lesser known destinations, such as the wetlands of the Pantanal and the historical town of Olinda. “The number of British tourists going to Brasil is just a fraction of what it could be. That’s why we’re working alongside the tourism industry to show agents and operators how to prepare package holidays to Brasil and increase the number of flights to the country”, explains Fuzinatto.
18 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
The campaign will appear in the press, on billboards and especially on the internet, where most British people research their holidays. During the first phase, between September 2008 and June 2009, tourist attractions in 12 Brasilian states will be promoted. The second phase will focus on attractions in eleven other regions. The director, who’s lived in the UK since 1989, explains the importance of having an Embratur office in London. “The only Latin American countries that have this type of representation here in the UK are Brasil and Mexico. Since we opened in 2005, UK nationals have gone from being the 11th to the 10th most frequent visitors to Brasil.”
editoria
20 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
in the know
01
language The language barrier can be a huge obstacle to start with as you’ll find that very few people outside the large cities speak any English. On the positive side though, this means you will learn Portuguese much quicker. Arriving without a word in the language I started to buy comic books and also to read the newspaper daily, building up my vocabulary.
02
Food & Entertainment There is a good variety of food and entertainment options in the larger cities, but once you move further afield you will find your options pretty limited. São Paulo has a huge variety of restaurants and there is literally something for everyone. If you’re a meat-lover then you can’t go wrong with the all-you-can-eat churrascarias. My only gripe is that it’s difficult to find spicy food. There are some Indian restaurants, but in general Brasilian food (Bahia excluded) tends to be a little bland.
03
Money The banking system is well developed and most cash points, especially in the larger cities, will accept international cards. Travellers cheques can be difficult and time consuming to change. A combination of cash, debit and credit cards should get you through your stay. If you bring foreign currency such as euros or pounds you will need your passport to change it into local currency. The best place to change them is usually at foreign exchange booths, to be found in most shopping centers.
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5
gringoes
Ex-pat website shows first time visitors how to avoid acting like a complete gringo
04
Transport Given the size of the country, internal flights are the easiest way to get around, but they might seem expensive by European standards due to lack of competition. An airpass bought in advance can save you money and hassle. If you are not going far then going by luxury coach between cities is a comfortable and economical way to travel. In cities like São Paulo and Rio, the underground is a cheap and safe option. Taxis are less expensive than in Europe, whilst using buses within the large cities can be complicated if you don’t speak Portuguese, and they can get very crowded at rush hour.
words by Kieran Gartlan illustration by natan heber
05 Gringoes.com was set up at the beginning of 2000, although the idea for it came shortly after I arrived in Brasil, back in 1994. At the time I didn’t speak any Portuguese and felt there was a big need for an English language publication to provide information and a way of getting in touch with other foreigners living here. Setting up a magazine was an expensive option, but as the internet started growing in popularity in the late 90s I decided that a website was the perfect solution. I only wished something like it had existed when I first arrived in Brasil.
Safety Brasil in general is no more or no less safe than most developed nations; using common sense will normally be enough to keep you safe. Carry only what you need and leave your valuables in the hotel, especially in tourist destinations like Salvador and Rio. Make a copy of you ID/passport and always carry your wallet in your front pocket. Some travelers carry a “fake” wallet in their back pocket as a decoy, containing a small amount of cash. Best not to use jewellery or watches and be sure to be discreet with cameras, depending on the situation.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 21
editoria IN THE KNOW
Packing Up and Moving to Paradise Photographer publishes photos of breathtaking landscape after living on Fernando de Noronha for three years words by Simone Pereira photo by João Vianna
Fernando de Noronha is a rare case of good sense prevailing over greed. Located in the extreme Northeast of Brasil, the archipelago, which is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Brasil, was turned into a National Marine Park in 1988. Since then, the number of visitors has been controlled to preserve the region’s delicate ecosystem and it’s almost impossible for outsiders to move there or set up business in the area. Photographer João Vianna had the privilege of being hired by one of the few companies operating on the island, and in 2004 he packed his bags and set off for paradise. Through the lenses of his camera, Vianna explored and captured the island’s hidden corners, its secrets, its beauty, the colour of the flora and fauna, the ocean, the locals and the tourists visiting the archipelago. Over three years, the Carioca gathered enough material to publish a book, Viver Fernando Noronha, which was launched in September and features 62 photos, chosen from an archive of over 1,500 images that unveil the mysteries of Fernando de Noronha. How did your relationship with Fernando de Noronha develop?
Viver Fernando de Noronha 72 pages Publisher: Réptil Editora vivernoronha.blogspot.com
22 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
In 1989, when I was still a child, my brother went to Noronha and came back completely blown away, full of stories and photos that just fascinated me. Ever since, I’d
always dreamt of visiting the region, but I only got to fulfil my childhood fantasy in 2001. It was love at first sight, I just fell for the place, the way of life, the colours and the sea, the people. I returned to the island over the following two years and moved there in 2004. How did the book come about?
The book came as a consequence of having lived on the island for three years and having built up an extensive collection of photographs. Photos of landscapes, fauna, underwater shots, surfers, local characters and daily life on the island. What should a visitor to Fernando de Noronha do to get the best out of their trip?
Get up early to make the most of the day, but put an evening aside to listen to maracatú and dance forró at Bar do Cachorro. Obligatory activities include watching the sunset at the Forte São Pedro do Boldró, trekking from Caieira to Atalaia and going on a boat trip to watch the dolphins. Where do you next plan on travelling to?
I’ve actually got a new project on the go. I’m currently travelling across Brasil with my girlfriend as a part of the “Expedição Águas do Brasil”, documenting the country’s natural beauty and cultural heritage.
08:30am
| Kick Off
Have a great tropical breakfast, with fresh fruit and warm bread, and go jogging on the beachfront along Avenida Atlântica, with lots of people exercising, fantastic sea views, clean white sand under your feet and a most refreshing sea breeze.
04:00pm
| Pre-Party
On the way back to Balneario Camboriú stop at Estaleirinho beach, with a choice of two very cool beach clubs, Sky and Goa. There you can usualy find a couple of top models, lots of sun, the best music, and it’s certainly one of the favourites for famous and beautiful Brasilians.
07:00pm
| Dinner time
Enjoy the notorious Churrascaria Rio Grande (260 Av Marginal Leste) for a taste of South Brasil’s gaúcho steak houses, where prime beef will be offered to you for as long as you can eat and the beer is served very, very cold.
11:00pm 10:00am |
Beach Action
Head to the Bombinhas region to find the tranquil waters of Sepultura beach, where you can snorkel or kayak alongside sea turtles in the calm, clear waters of the bay. For something livelier, try the famous surfing beaches just over the mountain, like Quatro Ilhas or Mariscal, where the fantastic breakers attract surfers aplenty.
| Getting Started
Balneario Camboriú is the centre of Brasil’s electro/tech music scene and offers world famous clubs such as Warung (Jose Medeiros Vieira, Praia Brava), listed as the 5th best club in the world, or Green Valley (1.083 Rua Mármore), one of the biggest outdoor clubs in Brasil. Downtown there is Baturité Club (5900 Av Atlântica), the longestrunning electro club. All offer the latest and greatest music and international top billing from DJs around the globe.
24 camboriú hours in
words by Dj Big Paul
dj big paul entertaining the crowds at camboriú
The southern beach resort of Balneário Camboriú is considered Brasil’s answer to Ibiza. In order to find out how to make the most of the area we asked British dj Big Paul, a regular figure in London clubs such Pacha and the Egg and now a resident there, to plan an intense 24-hour schedule.
01:00pm |
Feeling Hungry
Have lunch at the best seafood restaurants of Zimbros beach, Berro d’Água (578 Rio Juquiá). Starters have to be the renowned grilled oysters in champagne with white sauce, followed by shrimp or lobster. The top balcony provides a fantastic panoramic view of the beautiful surrounding palm tree-lined bay, with fishing boats bobbing on the sea and hummingbirds sipping nectar from the blossoming flowers.
05:00am
| zzz
Now it’s time to rest, but not for too long as another early start and fun-filled day lies ahead.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 23
editoria in the know
Cuca eats Rio Imagine flying off to sunny Rio to track down the city’s best eateries. Not everyone is as lucky as Nando Cuca, who reveals some of the city’s top treats words by nando cuca
“My name is Nando Cuca and this is Cuca Brazuca!” That’s how I start most of the clips on the food video blog I have been running since 2006, something I do strictly for fun and for the passion I have for Brasilian cuisine. So when JungleDrums magazine and TAP Airlines offered me the chance to take a small crew over to film recipes on location in Rio de Janeiro, it was an offer I simply could not refuse. How much work would a documentary like this involve? We spent 15 days there - filming from 9am till 10pm every day in Rio’s blistering heat. All together, we shot some 50 hours of video, which we are currently editing. We battled with Brasil’s unavoidable bureaucracy, dodged shady characters, sweettalked bar and restaurant managers and visited parts of Rio I had never been to over the 23 years I lived there. You can check out our adventures on cucabrazuca.com, but if you want to experience the best of Rio’s gastronomy, you cannot afford to miss…
pastel
Delicious deep fried crispy pastry pockets sold at stands in Rua General Glicério street market. Go on Saturdays around lunchtime and watch chorinho being played live by the group Choro na Feira.
coconut water
Drink some at Pepino beach in Barra da Tijuca, while you watch the hang gliders land right in front of you.
roast cheese
Cheese on a stick that you can chew on while you ogle all the beautiful bodies on Ipanema beach.
amazonian cuisine
Hop on the street car and travel up the hills of Santa Teresa to Espirito Santa restaurant (Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 264), where you’ll also find,
dim sum
at Rio’s new (and best) oriental restaurant – Asia (Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 256).
churrasco
Do the tourist thing (there’s no shame in that) and eat the best bbq on a spit at Porcão Rios restaurant (Av Infante Don Henrique s/n)
24 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
feijoada
black beans and pork stew at Casa da Feijoada (Rua Prudente de Moraes 10).
cold beer
drink while you watch a football match at Maracanã stadium.
bacalhau
Try the traditional cod-based Portuguese dish at Adegão Português (Campo de São Cristóvão 212). Rio is still the most Portuguese of Brasilian cities and Adegão is practically an institution.
açaí smoothie
ice-cold at one of Rio’s many juice bars.
tea and cakes
at Confeitaria Colombo (Rua Goncalves Dias 32), a massive Art Deco teahouse in the very heart of the bustling city centre.
drinking and dancing
the night away at Rio Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio, 20), a celebrated live music venue next to the Lapa Aqueduct arches. … then come back to the UK with a deep dark tan and try and convince family and friends of what hard work it all was!!
4'#& #0& .+56'0 61 $4#5+.
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*UK £20 | Europe £28 Brasil & elsewhere £35
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A one year subscription to Jungle gives you a CD of your choice from 5 Brasilian titles of the World Music Network catalogue. I]Z Gdj\] <j^YZ Id HVbWV I]Z Gdj\] <j^YZ Id 7gVo^a/ 7V]^V I]Z Gdj\] <j^YZ Id 7gVo^a^Vc =^e"=de I]Z Gdj\] <j^YZ Id I]Z Bjh^X D[ 7gVo^a I]^c` <adWVa/ 6Xdjhi^X 7gVo^a
Call now on 020 7242 5140 or visit www.jungledrums.org ad_JD_babylon.indd 1
5/8/08 16:51:08
2008 2008 - 2009 - 2009 | Jungle | JungleTrips Trips | 25
editoria
If I were you, I would do just what Pedro Álvares Cabral did: I’d discover Brazil, beginning with the beaches of Bahia.
SOFITEL SALVADOR
Re se rva ti o n s: +55 (71) 2106-8500 or reservas.sofitelsalvador@accor.com.br R. Passárgada S/n - Itapuã - Salvador www.sofitel.com.br
26 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
country of the future Chris Pickard, the man responsible for setting up the Brasilian Tourist Office in London, explains how to attract more British visitors to the country words by Bernardo Pires Domingues
A family with Brasilian connections and 17 years living in Rio de Janeiro as a restaurant owner, record shop manager and journalist have given British-born Chris Pickard a deeper understanding of Brasil than many natives possess. This track-record, together with his passionate views about how Brasil should be promoted in the UK, resulted in an invitation in 1999 to set up a tourist office at the Brasilian Embassy in London, where he stayed for five years. Currently working as a business advisor for organizations with links to the UK and Brasil, he believes that the country is set to become one of the world’s major tourist destinations. What needs to be done for Brasil to become a more popular holiday destination amongst British tourists?
I understand that the Brasilian government tries to give all the different regions of the country equal exposure
in its advertising campaigns abroad, but the powers that be have to accept that most people going to Brasil for the first time want to visit Rio de Janeiro. Therefore it’s important to have
it’ll be one of the world’s major tourist destinations adequate connections between Rio and other States so that the city can act as a gateway to the rest of the country. Currently, you have to go to Sao Paulo first, but direct flights are reappearing, like the British Airways one. Does the fear of violence put British tourists off Rio and Brasil?
I don’t think so. After 9/11, terrorism is a bigger concern amongst travellers
and, luckily, Latin America hasn’t been a target of this kind of attack. What still puts British people off then?
People don’t understand the size of the country. I remember a case involving one British tourist who arrived in Recife and phoned a tourist operator to ask how much a taxi to Corcovado would cost. Some cities are geared up for tourists who come and spend a week, but that’s not how the British travel. When Brasilians come to Europe they only want to spend three or four days in one place, as well. And what would change this perception of Brasil?
I think that the FIFA 2014 World Cup will play a fundamental role because it will take place at several regions across the country, showcasing not just in one city. 2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 27
editoria
Europe’s most frequent visitor to Brazil
New York
Caracas
Fortaleza Natal Recife
Brasília
Salvador
Belo Horizonte
São Paulo
67 weekly flights from over 30 cities in Europe to 8 destinations in Brazil and more 28 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
Rio de Janeiro
Oslo
Stockholm Copenhagen
Heathrow Gatwick Paris
Hamburg Amsterdam Brussels Frankfurt Zurich Lyon
Azores
Nice Marseille Barcelona
Porto Lisbon
Prague Budapest Venice Zagreb Milan Rome
Madrid Seville Malaga
Madeira
Sal Praia
Casablanca
Dakar Bissau
SĂŁo TomĂŠ
Luanda
Johannesburg
Maputo
Routes from Lisbon Routes from Porto Routes from London Heathrow / Gatwick Routes also operated by TAP Portugal
Book at flytap.com or call 0845 601 0932
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 29
editoria top 10 BEACHES IN BRAsIL
30 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
10
top
beaches in brasil
with more than 4.5 thousand miles of coastline to choose from, just where do you start? We’ve asked those in the know to tell us where to find the best beaches in Brasil.
01 baía do Sancho
Fernando de Noronha - Pernambuco
words by alex robinson photo by joão viana
“I heard a lot of hype about Fernando de Noronha when I lived in Brasil. Friends from São Paulo who’d been to the island would get a far off look in their eyes: “Tem que ir! não tem praias mais bonitas na planeta”. “In the world?” I’d say, - being British and therefore intrinsically suspicious of intense enthusiasm – “Have you been to Turquoise Bay in Australia? Or Tayrona or Tulum?”. They hadn’t. But I was soon to discover they were right. I remember the first morning I woke up there – the sun was golden over the infinity of the sea. Wispy oceanic clouds dropped gentle rain on a far off horizon and frigate birds filled the air. From the clifftop where the hotel lay I could see Spinner dolphins cavorting in the indigo Atlantic. I headed down the path and spent the morning walking from glorious beach to glorious beach – clambering over the chocolaty rocks of a crumbling headland to be greeted by yet another view of a limpid, turquoise bay of silvery sand pounded by foamy surf. The most beautiful of all was the Praia do Sancho - a sheltered beach as pretty as a Kerry cove, yet backed by tropical rainforest and washed by a gently lapping bath-warm sea. It’s a rare place – one of the few that you never truly leave, yet always long to return to”. Alex Robinson is the author of the Footprint guide to Brazil and a feature writer for publications including Wanderlust. His portfolio can be seen at alexrobinsonphotography.co.uk
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 31
editoria top 10 BEACHES IN BRAsIL
there’s something for everyone: surfing schools, frescobol and lots of space to sunbathe
02 Praia da Pipa
Tibaú do Sul Rio Grande do Norte
words by sílvia rodrigues photo by embratur
“A hop, skip and a jump away from Natal, bustling Praia da Pipa has guest houses, bars, restaurants, clubs and everything else you could possibly want from a small but lively beach villa. My favourite stretch of beach is Baía dos Golfinhos, just 5 minutes from the centre of Pipa. To get there, stroll through the Pipa Ecological Sanctuary, along a stretch of road baptised ‘Descida dos Piratas’. The view is fantastic: a long stretch of white sand, perfect waves for surfing and the regular appearance of dolphins! The dolphins almost always turn up around 3pm to surf the waves, jumping and playing whilst swimming close to nearby surfers and swimmers. The beach is popular with children and adults alike, because there’s something for everyone: surfing schools, frescobol and lots of space to sunbathe. Despite having great waves for surfing, the sea is generally calm during the morning, and the temperature of the water is perfect.” Sílvia Rodrigues works at Intrepid Travel, a tour operator based in North London specialised in off-the-beaten-track tours.
32 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
03 Ipanema
04 Jericoacoara
words by Bernardo Pires Domingues photo by tatiana almeida
words by Gabriel Silvestre photo by embratur
“The great surf at Arpoador, a stretch of beach huddled away in Ipanema, helped launch surfing in Brasil during the 1960s. It was also where I first plucked up the courage to pick up a board and give the sport a go. Whether you’re in Rio for the day or a seasoned surfer, anyone can take lessons, hire a surfboard and live a little bit of Brasilian history for themselves.
“Precious Jeri is a treasure all of its own. The journey to get there resembles those old movies about some off-the-map secret location, which only adds to the excitement. Starting from urban Fortaleza, it takes six hours on a bus to the little town of Jijoca - where locals assemble in the main square to watch TV - before hopping on a truck for the final leg along a sandy trail. As soon as you put your feet on the ground you know you are in a special place: no paved streets, public lighting kept to a minimum and people taking time out to enjoy the little things that make life worth living.
rio de janeiro
Volleyball is another sport that started out in Ipanema (and Copacabana) in the 30s, before spreading across the rest of the country. Hundreds of nets set up along the 2km-long beachfront allow all types of players to have a go, from beginners to high-level competitors. Whilst they may not have originated in Ipanema, lots of sports, from football to frescobol, have gained notoriety on this trend-setting beach in Brasil’s chicest city. However, a swim in the ocean, a bit of sunbathing and crowd watching the miscellaneous population of the sands of Ipanema are sports that can be practised by those who feel far from the athletic type. And the sporting ground is just next door as the beach is entrenched in the city.” Bernardo Pires Domingues has worked with sports for more than ten years as a journalist and media professional, and is a frustrated surfer
Jijoca – Ceará
Nestled between a giant dune and a hill, Jeri is a place to truly connect with nature. The calm, warm waters are perfect for anyone looking to relax, but the moderate winds attract thrill-seeker windsurfers as well. As days go by, you can take a stroll to the odd rock formation of Pedra Furada, go on a buggy ride to some of the superb lakes around the village or simply laze on a hammock. One thing is mandatory: everyone walks up the dune as dusk approaches to sit and admire the sunset by the sea. Some find spiritual peace there, others have epiphanies. In my case, this will always be a special place because it’s where I fell in love.” Gabriel Silvestre works as travel editor at the magazines JungleTrips and JungleDrums
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editoria top 10 BEACHES IN BRAsIL
05 Canoa Quebrada
06 Porto de Galinhas
words by John Malathronas photo by marcelo reis nakashima
words by Bruno von Söhsten photo by christian knepper
“The Brasilian beach where you first try sand surfing and buggy riding is the one you remember all your life. For me, this was Canoa Quebrada, two hours south of Fortaleza. That is where over thirty years ago local and foreign backpackers discovered its remarkable falésias – sandy, multicoloured cliffs – and turned an erstwhile fishing village into an alternative commune. Of course, last century’s hippies are today’s moneyed travellers, and ecocondominiums with air con and swimming pools have made the experience a tad more comfortable, come 2008. Yet the fishing taverns are still there, offering crayfish and lobster platter at knockdown prices; quaint single-sail jangada boats lie sideways on the beach next to the fishermen’s brick-andthatch houses, and the rain lagoons are as crystal-clear as ever.
“Surf’s up all year round, but during winter the waves improve dramatically. Anyone visiting Porto should go on a buggy ride from Muro Alto and Cupe (which are full of resorts, mansions and deserted beaches), to the promontory at Maracaípe, where the river meets the sea. Once there, don’t forget to tuck into some crab, sitting with your feet dipped in the calm sea water, watching the sunset through the preserved mangrove. Porto has some of the most famous natural swimming pools in Brasil, where you can go diving and take a boat trip out to a coral reef that looks like the national flag.
Aracati - Ceará
But it is those sand dunes that remain buried in your memory the most. Whether you ride them up and down in buggies, driven by quasi-mad buggeiros, or scare yourself silly by surfing down their sides on body boards, they will provide you with the ultimate testing ground for your emotions: in turn laughter, fear, panic and, ultimately, joy.” John Malathronas is the author of the travelogue Brazil:Life, Blood, Soul and the Globetrotter Wildlife Guide to Brazil
34 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
Ipojuca – Recife
Porto de Galinhas has a range of shops, restaurants to suit all tastes and a “chicken” theme (“galinha” meaning hen), everywhere you go, in the form of phone booths, sculptures, paintings, decor, etc, which gives the place a special charm. The local nightlife isn’t the greatest, which means that the beach is more popular with visitors looking for some peace and quiet. There are no cliffs, but coconut palm groves as far as the eye can see.” Bruno von Söhsten is a photographer specialised in Recife’s nature and surf scene and his portfolio can be seen at: flickr.com/photos/brunovs
07 Boca da Barra
08 Lopes Mendes
words & photo by Suzana Latini
words by Tenille Moore
“Some years ago I went on holiday to Morro de São Paulo and ended up visiting the island of Boipeba. It was love at first sight! Boipeba is the perfect combination of deserted beaches, preserved natural beauty and easy going locals, but with the necessary amenities to eat and sleep well, whatever your budget. There are no loud sound systems playing axé or higglers on the beach. The island’s difficult access has kept mass tourism at bay.
“Lopes Mendes beach is a perfect pristine paradise: sparkling crystal clear blue water breaking along an endless beach of powder white sand, backed by lush verdant Atlantic forest teaming with wildlife and only washed up coconuts, the odd monkey and a sprinkling of surfers for company. Sound like heaven? It is! Nature-lovers, active and adventurous travellers and those needing some chillout time after too much partying in Rio will absolutely love it.
Ilha de Boipeba - Bahia
A boat trip around Boipeba helps you get a good idea of the island’s layout and natural beauty. Boipeba has many extremely beautiful beaches like Cueira, Moreré and Ponta de Catelhanos, but to finish off your day there’s nothing like sunset at Boca da Barra. Little coloured boats return from fishing trips, children make a racket on the beach and the locals play football and capoeira. As if that weren’t enough, the sun sets in a veritable blaze of colours every day. Boipeba is perfect for anyone looking for peace and quiet. It’s a place to read a good book lounging in a hammock, take long walks, go to bed early and recharge your batteries. I go at least once a year and I hope that it stays just as it is.” Suzana Latini is a photographer specialised in the people and landscapes of South America and her portfolio can be seen at: flickr.com/photos/suzanalatini
Ilha Grande – Rio
My perfect day at Lopes Mendes would start with a hearty tropical breakfast in the main settlement on Ilha Grande, Vila Abraão, and then trekking the 3 hours along forest trails to Lopes Mendes (or, if I was feeling lazy, taking a boat and then walking along the short trail). I would then pass my time taking long walks along the beach sipping água de côco, taking intermittent dips in the unbelievably blue sea and having a snooze on the sands, lulled to sleep by birdsong and crashing waves. I’d then hopefully awake to the smell of grilled cheese wafting through the air as one of the few locals walking the beach selling snacks passed me by. Washing that down with a cold beer, I’d hop back in the sea before making a reluctant mad-dash to catch the last boat back to Vila Abraão.” Tenille Moore works at Geodyssey, a tour operator based in north London which specialises in Latin America.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 35
editoria
36 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
09 Tabatinga
Conde – Paraíba
words by Tamashin photo by cácio murilo
“Paraíba is blessed with some of the finest beaches in Brasil. In fact, several have already been voted as such by various magazines. However, there are some beaches which don’t make the headlines but are equally wonderful, and Tabatinga is one of them. It is situated 25km south of João Pessoa and a few kilometers from Jacumã. It is completely unspoilt with natural pools, cliffs, palm trees and little else. Parts of the beach are suitable for surfing, whilst others are good for swimming and family bathing, particularly for children. There are just enough rock outcrops on the fine golden sands to make life interesting and not discouraging. Bathe in the warm turquoise waters and relax in the shade of the cliffs. You will not be bothered by crowds as the throng tends to congregate around the beach bars of neighbouring Coquerinho where you too can indulge when the water and food runs out. The beauty of Tabatinga is its lack of amenities, so take your rubbish home. Even parking is difficult with space for at least six cars on the access road and not much more in the car park.” Tamashin is the editor of ParaibaParadise.com, a website dedicated to promoting the wonders of João Pessoa and the state of Paraíba.
10 Zimbros
Bombinhas Santa Catarina
words by milo steelefox photo by embratur
“After the bustle of Rio, turning up in Bombinhas was a welcome change of pace: tranquil, and so idyllic. Although we stayed in the town itself, perfect for families with its friendly beaches and gentle waves, children happily exploring the rocks with snorkels, my favourite day was when we hired bikes to roll over to Zimbros and loop back around via Canto Grande. The bay was simply serene, all too easy to fall in love with the small colourful houses looking out to sea as we pushed our bikes along the sand, pausing here and there to pick up shells, paddle or swim. The end of the beach was dappled with beautiful great rocks, and after lunch and sun bathing on them for a while we rode on and up, hauling our bikes to the top of the hilly headland, to look out high above the vast and vibrant blue sea. Returning to our pousada at twilight we rewarded ourselves with a pizza and didn’t last much longer, soon asleep and dreaming of waking to the seaview from a perfect little house in Zimbros.” Milo Steelefox works at Anglo-Brazilian magazine JungleDrums and spent the summer of 2006 travelling up and down the coast of Brasil.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 37
editoria amazon
the long
Way Up words by adam hirst photos by joĂŁo viana
Adam Hirst embarks on the legendary five-day trip up the River Amazon from BelĂŠm to Manaus exploring villages on stilts, river beaches and broken boats
38 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
I
t is simply one of those names. You hear the word ‘Amazon’ and immediately think of all kinds of dramatic scenery, exotic people and odd occurrences. As far as I’m concerned it definitely lived up to the hype. I will never forget travelling up the River Amazon and I recommend that everyone takes a journey up this, the world’s mightiest river. Perhaps it wasn’t quite how you may have been led to expect - no indigenous warriors lining the banks with blowpipes and poisoned darts, not many caimans or anacondas following us around, and no sign of the piranhas that aren’t in fact anywhere near as dangerous as legend has it. Albeit a shame this never once detracted from the experience. What I did experience there was a total sense of culture shock that I’d never had in other places in Brasil. The lifestyle of the caboclo people, a mix of indigenous and Portuguese ancestry who live alongside the Amazon River, is a most incredible thing to behold.
Local Encounters After working our way up the coast of Brasil, my group of traveller companions and I arrived in the city of Belém at the mouth of the Amazon to catch a boat and embark upon a 1,000km voyage a whole three days - upriver to Santarém. This journey was to be done with Pedro Junior, a two-storey wooden chalana that was the cheapest boat available. We had the perfect platform to observe it all too, Pedro Jr having nothing to obstruct the view except the roof supports. Our easy-to-carry thin cotton hammocks had been strung up with help from more experienced Amazon boat travellers, who slept together on something that a fishing trawler should have been towing. We were tightly packed, one against the ceiling, one resting on the bags underneath, 40 people sleeping within the 20 feet or so length behind the captain’s bridge on the top. Downstairs, the toilet and the kitchen were next to each other at the back, and the only place in which hammocks weren’t hanging, dead cows were. The cows were necessary to give 2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 39
editoria amazon
The legendary chalanas offer a glimpse on the amazonian way of life
the crazy chef some meat to prepare with his spaghetti and rice: morning, noon and night. He didn’t use many ingredients or flavouring so it was lucky that our Indian and Japanese heroes had brought spices and sauces with them. The English just bought the booze. Lots of it. Plus limes for caipirinhas, and condensed milk for ‘batidas’. Somewhere between Santarém and Marajó island, with its buffalo-riding policemen, hundreds of houses built on stilts sit directly above the water during the wet season flood. From the sides of the river the local kids drew in like one half of their ancestors attacking the other hundreds of years before, paddling into the middle of the river in their dug-out canoes to meet the big boat, trying to hook their canoes to the back to catch a ride up the river. Even our boat dwarfed them, and my jaw dropped when I saw a girl of around 4 years old paddling happily into our path like a mosquito about to be trodden on by an elephant. I was literally holding my hands over my eyes and peering through my fingers, wailing. This little river veteran didn’t bat an eyelid as the prow of the boat passed within 6 inches of the front of her canoe. She smiled and waved, smiling and waving in rhythm with my pounding heart. The Amazon River is full of small towns clinging to the banks, sometimes half submerged. The river boats stop at every one to load supplies and passengers. Our boat had broken down at various points, the latest one appearing to be terminal. After days marooned on the edge of the river, drinking from dawn 40 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
until we fell, a boat full of buffalo arrived out of the darkness to tow us to Garupá, the nearest of these towns. Hungover, we explored the town until we realised there was nothing to explore; the jungle lay just behind, we could go no further, and the hot equatorial sun was beating down. We saw a pool table in a backstreet bar on the last one in town. The shade made sense, the beer made sense, the pool didn’t. After a game or two, we invited the crowd of kids to play and chatted to the two sisters that owned the bar. They showed us their açaí processing machine (rather like a meat-grinder), and one of their sons shinned up a huge palm to bring us down a branch with the small green nuts attached. They gave my girlfriend some earrings hand-made with açaí seeds and generally treated us as if we were visiting relatives. Their hospitality was warmer than the overhead sun, and this is one of the main reasons that I’m so very glad our boat broke down.
Road to Manaus Alter do Chão is a short drive and a whole world away from Santarém, the second largest port of the Brasilian Amazon. On the edge of a lagoon formed by the River Tapajós, the entrance to which is partially blocked by a 2km sandbank, it is just one of the stunning river beaches in the area which were mostly submerged under the highest waters in 25 years when I was there. It didn’t matter to the locals or tourists though, and life carried on, with the waters so full of people that one
weekend
adventurers
The untameable Amazon isn’t just for Indiana Jones-wannabes. If you want a taste of the wild side without roughing it too much, then jungle accommodation and river cruise boats may well be your best bet. Jungle lodges combine easy access to the rainforest with the sensation of living like a modern-day Tarzan. The majority are allinclusive resorts, which makes sense seeing as the closest city is usually hours away by boat. Ariaú Towers (ariautowers.com) is a tree-top hotel with impressive panoramic views of the forest canopy. On the banks of the Rio Tarumã, 1 hour away from Manaus, Amazon Ecopark (amazonecopark.com.br) has a private river beach surrounded by comfortable chalets.
Ana Luiza Sena
Another option is to stay close to crocodiles and pink river dolphins on a hotel-boat like the Jungle Palace (junglepalace.com.br, above), which is anchored on the Rio Negro, an hour and a half away from Manaus. At the top end of the range, Iberostar Gran Amazon (iberostar.com.br/amazon) is the region’s only luxury cruise liner. Anyone staying in Manaus can go on excursions that last from a day up to several weeks. Operators like Swallows and Amazons (swallowsandamazonstours.com) and Gero’s Tours (amazongerotours.com) offer trips to Indigenous communities, boat rides on the Amazon, wildlife spotting, treks and camping.
miles from the coast alter do chão is true beach town
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 41
editoria
42 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
determined ice-cream seller was pushing his cart through three feet of water. The bars on the sandbank were all full - of water. Some almost up to the roof and some halfway up the legs of the chairs, tables and drinkers outside.
explorer amazon
We hired a rowing boat to cross to the sandbank and climb the hill on the far side of the lagoon. It looked like the views across to the other side of the river and over to the main artery of the Amazon would make it a fantastic spot for a good old English picnic. We never made it: never found the path, not even close. Instead we had our picnic, champagne and beer in a rowing boat as an Amazon storm came over the hill we’d been trying to find. We sheltered under an overhanging tree, pulled in the oars and drifted gently, toasting the tree, the storm, the boat, the bars, the jungle, the river, everything. Our boat for the 48 hour Santarém to Manaus section was bigger, with a goat tethered to the front like a figurehead. Speakers played loud accordion music most of the day and night, but despite these accoutrements our new boat lacked the sloppy character of Pedro Jr. Such minor problems paled into insignificance though when compared to the brilliance of the moon. With only three or four electric lights within a hundred miles, an Amazon moon has no competition, especially when it has huge rings around it which can only be seen before a storm. The gentle ripples behind the boat reflected the silver light in calming patterns as the silhouette of the jungle slipped by. At moments like this, there is no need to speak; just smile, enjoy the ambience and be glad that you’re in Brasil. Even better. A dark, dark cloud was looming over the tree-tops, sweeping millions of stars up in its path, making the brightest of silver linings out of them, and contrasting beautifully with another arriving storm. We rolled the tarpaulin down but not all the way. The rain was so loud it was pointless trying to talk. The jungle disappeared behind it as the moon and stars had done. Nothing to see, nothing to hear, nothing to feel except the rain of the rainforest. Everybody should go to the Amazon. You get such magical moments there.
05.00° south 65.00° west
when to go
The Amazon is a hot and humid area throughout the year with an average temperature of 26°C. The best time to spot the wildlife is during the rainy season from Nov to May but during the drier months between Jun-Oct sandy beaches come to the surface and there are fewer insects.
where
how to
get there In a place where rivers act as motorways, the only way to get to Manaus and other Amazonian towns is by plane or by long distance boat. There are no direct flights from Europe but local carriers TAM airlines and Gol connect Brasil’s major cities with Manaus via Brasília.
eat, drink
to stay
& fun
Generally, the accommodation on offer falls into two categories: regular hotels and pousadas in the most structured towns such as Manaus, which are ideal for budget and independent travellers, or jungle lodges deeper into the rainforest. These are generally booked with full board package deals including tours.
Manaus is a large urban area in the middle of the Amazon, so not surprisingly it has the most interesting options for drinking, dinning and grooving. The best festival, though, takes place in the town of Parintins in the latter half of June. The folk festival of the Boi Bumbá is a carnivalesque re-enactment of Amazonian legends.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 43
editoria amazon
interview bruce parry
down by the river words by fernando duarte & morena madureira
Intrepid presenter of the BBC series Tribe talks about his journey through the Amazon to show the world the many faces of the biggest forest on the planet
T
here’s no shortage of reasons for which Bruce Parry should be regarded a specialist when it comes to the Amazon; he’d have every right to consider himself a scholar on the subject. Saying that, the British presenter is the first to admit that his seven months spent in the forest to produce Amazon, the most recent programme of the series Tribe, recently shown on BBC2, didn’t leave him with the illusion that he knew it like the back of his hand. Parry, however, fell in love with the region to the point where he turned Amazon into a manifesto for the defence of the forest and, in particular, the inhabitants oppressed by commercial and political interests. But in the interview with JungleTrips in a bustling café on Portobello Road, 44 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
the presenter, aged 39, also did a little touristic promotion of the region: The Amazon is beautiful and safe and everybody should go and see, because it has got some of the most beautiful places in the world What impressions did you bring back from your Amazon experience?
I spent seven and half months in the Amazon, in nine different countries, but a lot of the time in Brasil. It was an amazing journey in terms of geographical, political, and economic observation, but the most interesting was to see the emotions involved. The whole world is looking at the Amazon and although a lot of people in Brasil
say ‘’how dare you, it’s ours’’, its reality does affect the rest of the planet. Now, I am not Brasilian and don’t speak Portuguese, so I tried to have a journey and go to areas of interest based in issues - cocaine, gold, cattle ranching, slavery. I am not an expert at all. What I could do was to meet the people in the places and comment from the heart on what they told me. So you were definitely not looking for the scenery?
I came across heavy, deep stuff in the project. Tribe itself is not a programme for wildlife images, and in the case of Amazon I was looking for lessons. My story isn’t aimed at Brasil, but Europe and other rich nations. Everything that
one thing. It is a difficult place to go as a tourist for a short period of time but it is marvelous just to go to Manaus and spend two days admiring the confluence of the rivers, for example. But, yeah: the Amazon is beautiful and safe. Everybody should go, because it contains some of the most beautiful places in the world. Especially for people who live in big cities: you feel different emotions it’s like reconnecting with nature.
we are doing nowadays is having an effect somewhere else around the world. Everytime I touch or eat something here there are ramifications somewhere. Having said that, I fell madly in love with Brasil and Brasilian people. It is also important for me to say that the programme is not negative towards Brasil, but simply tries to provide a deep searching look. But you might understand that the Amazon is a sensitive issue amongst Brasilians...
Listen, there is corruption everywhere in the world, even here in the UK, but we have a very good history of hiding it (laughs). Brasil is a massive country and has a federal system in which every state can have different legislation. The governor of Pará, for example, is into some kind of so-called development, while the governor of the Amazon is into conservation. You cross a border and you see the difference. We know that things are going on, some people are becoming land owners by questionable means while people are being used as slaves. But the programme was never about me me waving the finger, only showing that while so many people here in the UK are drinking and eating not knowing that this is having an effect somewhere, some other people are really struggling because of us. The programme is to wake people up. Where do you stand on this debate on the region’s sovereignty?
I know there are many conspiracy theories regarding the Amazon, including stories about American spies. Brasil is one of the most powerful and enlightened nations in the world and I don’t see why people have to interfere in the country’s sovereignty. I don’t think it should be internationalised. It’s not for any nation to stick their nose in another nation’s business, but I look forward to the day we see the world as global system. It’s wrong for any country to try to do more than influence or help. The fact is that the Amazon is disappearing very fast and its riches, which are for all humanity, are riches you can’t get for cutting it down. They go only to one or two people who have the ability to pay others to allow them to get richer. We
The programme has inspired you into launching a CD to help indigenous people in the Amazon. What stories can you tell us about them?
THE AMAZON SHOULD NOT BE at all INTERNATIONALISED. IT’S NOT FOR A NATION TO STICK its nose INto ANOTHER’S BUSINESS
need to look after the Amazon for all of us. No one is going to win otherwise. Did you have any problems with the bad guys in the Amazon?
We went to many places where danger was around, especially when we went to Pará. There are lots of people with a price on their head, it’s a battlefield. We were sometimes told not to go here or there and joined raids by Ibama and the anti-slavery squad. But I never really felt at risk personally. Our story was human, not about picking at anybody. I don’t think I will be persona non grata in the Amazon, but I am interested to see how Brasil will look at the programme. Do you recommend it as tourist destination?
I have to be careful on this one... I would love to promote the Amazon, but it’s so big. There are places in the world where you can see three or four things in one day, while in the Amazon sometimes you have to travel three or four days to see
The indigenous people have got teachings that are really important for the world. Their gods and beliefs, for example, are not based on a man ruling from a cloud. People think of their religions as primitive, but they are so much more wholesome than modern religions, which are all about control, maledom, ego, manipulation, man’s superiority to nature. We need to protect indigenous cultures so we can listen to them. These people hold the secrets of how to live well with nature. It seems that you had a special interest with the Kayapo tribe in Brasil, right?
Yeah. The Kayapo people live in a reserve surrounded by cattle land, but they are interesting because before the Brasilian authorities made it illegal for them to log and mine, they were one of the first indigenous groups to employ white people. They are now embarassed but got the understanding that we are all human and that indigenous people can also destroy their environment. For a short time, the Kayapos all went mad and were even buying in watermelons, forgetting the old ways. Now they can compare the ancient way with the madness of the modern world. We would be wise to listen to their words. You are known for experiencing the habits of the people you live with. Any nasty surprises on the table?
This programme was different because I only stayed a couple of days with each group. But I will have rice and beans at any time, and tambaqui is my favourite fish. 2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 45
editoria jalap達o
46 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
into the
Wild The remote region of Jalapão is perfect for adventure tourism far from civilization words by Paula Bilenky photos by Venturas & Aventuras
L
ocated in central Brasil, in the State of Tocantins, about 186 miles from the capital Palmas, Jalapão State Park is an impressive sight with its 21 thousand square miles of virtually untouched landscape. The population density is the second lowest in the country after the Amazon Rainforest, where tourism is only beginning to take off. Criss-crossed by crystal-clear rivers, sandy beaches, waterfalls, sand dunes, plateaus and scrubland as far as the eye can see, the chance of bumping into other visitors is minimal. A dream come true for adventure-vacation addicts everywhere. Here, you don’t just feel as if you’re in the middle of nowhere, you actually are; there are no mobile phone networks, the roads are dusty and badly sign-posted and the petrol stations seem like oases. It’s hardly surprising that the region was baptised the “Jalapão Desert” - although, technically, it isn’t. The arid landscape is continuously intersected by the region’s river system. The temperature is a steady 30º almost the whole year long, giving the spectacular dunes a vibrant yellow tinge. The region’s sandy roads, surrounded by savannah, palm trees and exotic rocky formations like the Serra do Gorgulho, are inaccesible to any other vehicle other than the specially adapted 4x4s used by the local tourist agencies. Expeditions to Jalapão generally last for seven days and include rafting, hiking and camping out at night surrounded by the natural splendour of the Brasilian Cerrado.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 47
editoria ouro preto
48 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
Gold
Country words by Kat Joyce photoS by ALEXANDRE CAMPBELL
The historical towns in the countryside of Minas Gerais are home to some of Brasil’s finest colonial heritage. Kat Joyce steps back in time to listen to gruesome tales and explore the area the old fashioned way
T
he verdant, rolling hills and eye-popping green of the fertile pastures of Minas Gerais aren’t what you would stereotypically expect of Brasil, and maybe this is why tourism in the state has taken off more slowly than elsewhere. But get beyond lively capital Belo Horizonte and the region has enormous amounts to offer. As well as cultural and gastronomical treasures, and the friendliness of the locals, the countryside itself is ideal for exploring. Minas Gerais state can definitely lay claim to some of Brazil’s best-preserved history. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the area was a booming centre of the gold mining industry, and all the money coming out of the ground led to turbulence, violence and revolution. The legacy of those fascinating and tumultuous years is well preserved in the Cidades Históricas, colonial towns whose churches and architecture tell fascinating stories of a formative period of Brasil’s history.
Harsh Memories Vila Rica de Ouro Preto (Rich Town of Black Gold) was once the most important city in Brasil. The immense amount of wealth emanating from the mines in the area led to huge social changes as thousands of slaves were brought from Africa to work the mines, with tons of gold exported back to Europe. In 1789 tensions between local established settlers and the Portuguese rulers regarding the gold taxation, led to a failed attempt to create an independent state. One of the rebels involved, a dentist nicknamed Tiradentes, was made scapegoat and so Brasil’s greatest martyr was born. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, huge amounts of painstaking work has been done to research, reveal and
preserve the layers of history contained in its buildings. Today its large university means it remains an important intellectual centre – and has a lively young population which prevents the city feeling like a living museum. Although the declining mining industry still lingers, the city is more and more focusing towards tourism as its main industry. Ouro Preto is a visual feast, spreading over a series of valleys, nearly every corner reveals a view of one of the many Rococo and Baroque churches which stand proudly cresting every hill. There are many beautiful pousadas to stay in, mostly housed in the old mansions in the picturesque cobbled centre as well as some great restaurants perfect for sampling the locally produced meat and cheese. After our first afternoon in town, we parked ourselves in a bar on Rua Direita, one of the steep central cobbled streets, to try some of the local delicacies and sink a well-deserved, ice-cold Bohemia beer. It was here that we met João Baptista, who offered to take us on a tour of his city. He was born in Ouro Preto, and his family, descended from slaves, have been there for 8 generations. An incredible autodidact, João speaks five languages and his tour includes a visit to one of the mines as well as many of the churches and historical buildings. His explanations of the city brought the past to life – and encompassed the brutal realities that lie behind the beautiful facades that remain today. At Casa de Contas – once an important fiscal building and now a museum - the relationship between gold, money and slavery comes alive. The top floor holds a furnace where gold was smelted into ingots, and the basement reveals the grim chamber where slaves were kept. “You’ll notice that the 2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 49
editoria OURO PRETO
NESTLED IN LUSH VALLEYS, OURO PRETO IS A WORLD HERITAGE
SITE
ANNA BATCHELOR
black people here are short” João told us, matter-of-factly. “Only the short ones were selected to come here and work the mines. The taller people were sent to cut cotton and work the sugar fields.” He continued with a gruesome explanation of the ways that slaves were selectively “bred” by the mine owners; “If a boy of 12 or 13 looked like he was growing too tall, he’d be no use in the mine, so he’d be castrated.”
we felt like proper rancheros as the countryside unfolded around us – well-tended pastures AND wildflowers bursting all around You could spend a life-time discovering the secrets of the past in Ouro Preto but we only had a couple of days, and then it was time to explore the incredible countryside for some relaxation.
Up the Hills Next day we headed to Tiradentes, a scenic town set in a valley in the Serra de São Jose mountains, named after the separatist rebel hero. It has pretty terracotta-tiled colonial streets hosting antique shops and some good restaurants, but it is the trails leading into the mountain ranges that entice visitors. Indeed, the town is keen to boast its ecotourism credentials; within a short hike you can reach waterfalls, natural mineral pools and a stretch of protected Atlantic rainforest. 50 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
OURO PRETO RESIDENTS ALSO ENJOY TAKING A SIESTA
SLEEPY TIRADENTES IS A GOOD BASE TO EXPLORE minas ON HORSEBACK
explorer ouro preto 20.20° south 43.30° west
when to go
Tiradentes is also in the middle of horse country. There are horses everywhere - carts rattle up the cobbled streets, and horses graze outside the post-office and stand in the shade at the side of the roads. And the countryside of the region is perfect for riding, so we decided to travel the old-fashioned way and explore the region on hoof. The Tropa Trindade centre offers rides with experienced guides and excellent horses, ranging from a few hours in length, to longer overnight treks on which you can also explore some of the nearby towns and villages. We set off early to beat the heat. Our guide, Adriano, kitted us out with two of the local breed of Campolina horses, specially bred by himself for the demands of trekking. We left town and headed out onto winding tracks, accompanied by two energetic dogs. Kitted out in our leather chaps, we felt like proper rancheros as the countryside unfolded around us – well-tended pastures giving way to shaded woodland trails, wildflowers bursting all around. Some of the best horses in Brazil are bred in this area, explained Adriano, while we watched an incredible stud stallion showing off to us on one of the ranches we passed through. We stopped for some lunch at a little restaurant off a red-dirt road, and sat drinking a cold Guaraná fizzy drink and admiring the view – our horses grazing gently, and beyond them, the blue-tinged forested mountains. Heading back towards the town, through a stretch of crossing shady creeks, we were joined by another young horse, who seemingly enjoyed our company for a mile or so before he was stopped by a gate from coming with us any further. We returned to Tiradentes having looped around the town, and finished our trek overlooking the magnificent church, a gentle sea of terracotta roofs stretched before us. If you ignore a few of Brazil’ ubiquitous electricity pylons, this view from horseback has probably remained unchanged for centuries.
Ouro Preto is surrounded by mountains and has a mild climate, with a rainy period from October to February and drier months from March to September. If you are visiting Ouro Preto on a day trip avoid Mondays, as most of the churches and museums are closed.
how to
get there Minas Gerais is tipped to become a top destination after Portuguese carrier TAP introduced new direct flights from Lisbon to Belo Horizonte (9½ hours). The city is the gateway to the Cidades Históricas, with frequent bus services to Ouro Preto and Tiradentes.
eat, drink
where
to stay
& fun
All over the Cidades Históricas you’ll find charming colonial mansions turned into b&b’s, more often than not offering great value for money. In Ouro Preto, Solar do Rosario (solardorosario.com.br) and Grande Hotel (hotelouropreto. com.br) are highly recommended. In Tiradentes, Fazenda de Minas offers a taste of rural life close to the town (pousadafazendinhademinas.com.br)
Carnival in Brasil is usually associated with the spectacular showbiz of Rio, but wherever you are between February and March you won’t be far from endless parties. Ouro Preto’s Carnival is popular amongst young Brasilians and the historic city provides a quaint backdrop to the street parties. Hangovers can be easily dealt with by the tasty and hearty local Mineira cuisine.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 51
editoria
52 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
check
list
Modal Polyester shirts Polycotton shirts are ideal for physical activities, as they expel sweat and help maintain the body’s natural temperature. When you need a short-sleeved top the sleeves can be rolled up and attached to the shirt itself. Portage Woven & Falls Creek Woven shirts thenorthface.com/eu
Jabs and health safety kits This basic kit won’t take up much space in your suitcase and contains all the little things that you only think about once you need them, like paracetamol, plasters and a thermometer. Also make sure to pack insect repellent, which is essential in hot, humid climates. Solo Traveller First Aid Kit £30 & Expedition 20 Insect Repellent £3.99 lifesystems.co.uk
Synthetic Sandals These sandals are perfect for trekking in hot and humid areas, and their anatomical shape ensures a comfortable fit. You can jump in the sea with them on, or wear with socks for walking, Dozer sandals £55. teva.com/gb
Quick Dry accessories Stylish and comfortable, these sports boxers and knickers fit close to the body, a great solution for backpackers, since they dry quickly and won’t soak the rest of your clothes. M’s Active Sport Boxer £20 & W’s Active Hipster £15. patagonia.com
Travel Translator Avoid getting ripped off at restaurants and offending the natives with this nifty little gadget. With around 750 travel-related phrases recorded in a dozen languages, including Portuguese, you just press a button and the sentence is spoken clearly and pronounced correctly. Trinvo Talking Translator £35. cotswoldoutdoor.com
travel
essentials
Packing your suitcase is an important ritual before heading off on holiday. But what should you take with you to brasil? OUR tips can help you avoid a whole lot of unnecessary headaches. words by Tainá Tonolli
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 53
editoria checklist
Bikinis & beachwear Going to the beach is a part of daily life in Brasil, and beachwear is de rigeur. There are innumerous different styles, colours and prints available, from classic one-piece swimsuits to skimpy numbers, like this Polka Twist Bikini from Poko Pano (£58). The best labels are all Brasilian, and they’re a lot cheaper there than here in Europe. www.poko-pano.com
It’s all so tempting. Colourful trinkets, prints, objects that you’d never come across in Europe... But you need to keep a cautious eye out for rip offs. Check out our tips for avoiding bum deals when it comes to choosing your Brasilian souvenirs: words by Tainá Tonolli
Havaianas Beautiful and comfortable, Havaiana flip-flops were first produced in 1958, but only took off in the UK at the turn of the century. In Brasil, you can buy a pair for a mere £5, and the variety of models, colours and prints is infinite, so start collecting now.
what
to buy Chilli peppers Like palm oil, many peppers are only produced in a few countries and, if kept properly, can last for years. But be careful when transporting them: they’re normally sold in glass bottles and some peppers can stain clothes permanently.
Craftwork You’ll come across little arts and craft fairs throughout Brasil offering jewellery, clothing, decorations and even kitchen utensils. They’re generally all “naturally” made out of wood, fibres, wool and coloured stones. Save some space in your suitcase, because Brasilian craftwork is a must.
Environmental Projects Serious NGOs, like S.O.S Mata Atlântica and Projeto Tamar, fight to preserve Brasil’s ecosystems. They offer quality products that make great presents and help protect the environment.
54 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
Wildlife People tend to buy tropical birds for their exotic beauty, but Brasilian wildlife often has a hard time adapting to a European climate. What’s more, the trafficking of wild animals is a crime; you could end up spending from six months to a year in prison as well as having to pay a fine.
Berimbaus Light-weight and simple to play, this musical instrument, which is used in capoeira, is fragile and, due to its length (1.2m), difficult to transport. The berimbaus sold to tourists are often far too showy - those used by capoeiristas are a lot simpler.
what
not to buy
Hammocks Hammocks are great for relaxing in, but sleeping in one will give you terrible backache. They also take up a lot of space and you’ll have to screw hooks into the wall to hang them up, somewhat impractical in a “city box”. Made of colourful cotton fabric, finding one that matches your home decor could prove challenging too. Iuri Fernandes
Axé Music Compilations It might sound great during your stay in Salvador, Bahia, but it definitely won’t go down well at parties back home. The songs all have specific choreographies (often of a rather dubious nature) that seem out of context when far from the tropics
Cachaça
fabio costa
This popular spirit is available on street corners across Brasil, but cheaper brands make for a nasty hangover. Look for traditional cachaça from Salinas, in Minas Gerais, or Paraty, in Rio de Janeiro.
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 55
editoria checklist
brasil how to get to
destinations
Frequency
São Paulo
Daily
salvador
3 weekly
rio de janeiro são paulo
2 daily 2 daily
rio de janeiro são paulo
3 weekly Daily
rio de janeiro são paulo
5 weekly 14 weekly
são paulo
Daily
são paulo
Daily
são paulo
Daily
são paulo
Daily
Rio de Janeiro São Paulo Belo Horizonte Brasília Fortaleza Natal Recife Salvador
13 weekly 13 weekly 5 weekly Daily Daily 5 weekly Daily Daily
alitalia.com
aireuropa.com
airfrance.co.uk
britishairways.com
iberia.com
klm.com
lufthansa.com
swiss.com
tamairlines.com
flytap.com
1 The flight from London Gatwick is operated by Air Comet with straight-through connections in Madrid The following airlines also fly from other UK cities making it possible to do connections with their services to Brasil: 56 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009 2 Air France: Aberdeen, Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Manchester and Newcastle
Total flight time
AIRCRAFT
Luggage Allowance
16h40 (via Milan)
Boeing 777
2x32kg
12h55 (via Madrid)
Airbus A320 & Airbus A330
2x32kg
13h10 (via Paris) 13h45 (via Paris)
Boeing 777 & Airbus A330
2x23kg
11h40 11h30
Boeing 747 & Boeing 777
2x23kg
14h45 (via Madrid)
Airbus A340
2x23kg
14h20 (via Amsterdam)
Boeing 777
2x23kg
14h30 (via Frankfurt)
Boeing 747 & Boeing 777
1x20kg
14h50 (via Zurich)
Airbus A340
1x20kg
12h25
Airbus A330
2x23kg
13h45 (via Porto or Lisbon) 13h45 (via Porto or Lisbon) 13h35 (via Lisbon) 14h (via Lisbon) 11h50 (via Lisbon) 11h35 (via Lisbon) 13h (via Lisbon) 13h40 (via Lisbon)
Airbus A330 & Airbus A340
2x23kg
3 KLM: Aberdeen, Bristol, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, Manchester, Newcastle and Norwich 4 Lufthansa: Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh and Manchester 5 Swiss: Birmingham and Manchester
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THANKS TO MICHAEL OHASHI (BRAVO TRAVEL)
editoria CHECKLIST
before
you go
Selected books, travel guides and websites to get you ready before take off words by Gabriel Silvestre
Books Brazil: life, blood, soul
Living in Bahia
Malathronas combines historical research and his personal encounters with the locals to portray an extremely diverse country that transcends stereotypical images of partying and Carnival. It’s a sizeable book that makes for a great travel companion. John Malathronas, Summersdale, 540 pages £8.99
Blending images of luxury pads in metropolitan Salvador with snapshots of fishermen’s huts on deserted beaches, Reinés returns to the sunny Northeast State to show how Bahia’s mixed influences came together to produce a distintive interior design style. Edited by Angelika Taschen, Taschen, 200 pages £16.99
Travellers Brazil
Amazonas – Tourism, Ecology and Culture
Thomas Cook’s take on Brasil is surprisingly small considering that other guides are usually 500 pages long or more, but it does the job for those not willing to carry a brick-sized book around. This pocket guide offers a quick overview of the country’s main destinations and the texts are insightful and pleasing to read. Thomas Cook Publishing, 177 pages £9.99
Richly illustrated with high quality photos, Amazonas is a comprehensive guide to the local culture, landscape and society. The Amazon edition features in-depth explanations about the region’s fauna and flora, indigenous groups, and small towns that are not normally included in foreign guidebooks. Empresa das Artes, 266 pages approx. £10.90 livrariamelhoramentos.com.br
Travel Guides
Websites
58 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
Gringoes
Brazilmax
Gringoes is a reliable source of information helping to demystify issues from visa procedures to things you’ve always asked yourself, such as why cachaça is not kept in the fridge. The forum section is a gem, with essential information about settl down in the country, or simply finding your way around. gringoes.com
Brazilmax is another website set up by ex-pats but with more travel-oriented content. The self-styled “hip guide to Brazil’, its articles are usefully organised according to destination (beaches, outback, urban) with a special emphasis on cultural events. The website also has an online radio and booking service for ‘hip’ hotels. brazilmaz.com
2008 - 2009 | Jungle Trips | 59
editoria
Some of the areas we pay special attention to. In Iberia Business Plus you are our starting point. There’s your very own private space in which to unwind. The gourmet culinary creations by Chef Sergi Arola. Our wide range of excellent wines from the award-winning* Business Plus cellar. Your personal touchscreen with 26 video channels from current movie releases to video games. Plus 15 music channels to suit all tastes from blues to the very best opera. And if that is not enough, your comfortable bed-seat extends to a personal space of up to 190 cm. So sh ould you fancy a massage, simply lie back, relax and let your bed-seat do the rest. In fact, we focus all of our attention on you. *“Wines of the Wing” Global Traveler Magazine Awards.
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60 | Jungle Trips | 2008 - 2009
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