Jute Magazine - Vol. XIV

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- CON T E N TS

XVI 005

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

007

CONTRIBUTORS

fashion&features 009

“MONSTERS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND “ BY Kaylin Amabile

017

“DOWN THE RABIT HOLE “ BY Annie Buado

027

“DEVIL’S WHISPER“ BY Aaron McPolin

037

“ADORNED IN DREAM “ BY Chairit Prapai

043

“PRIS “ BY Danielle Chau

“THE COVER:WICCA” BY Salim Berrada

133

“IS FINE FEATHER” BY Grayson Hoffman

141

“TEDEKA: I AM HERE” BY Stefania Pruscino

147

“ANDREW KALASHNIKOV” BY Yinsey Wang

157

“FRANKIE’S EX” BY Jeramie Campbell

163

“THE PUNK WITHIN” BY Liz Besanson

177

“NOT YET” BY Ludo Hanton

179

“KITTY MAE MILLINERY “ BY Stefania Pruscino

“MIASMA” BY Miu Vermillion

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066

195

071

201

077

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085

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“DESCENT “ BY Emilia Gaston “THE GENTLEMEN LAMENTS HIS DEATH “ BY Emily Sandifer

093

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059

“VAMP “ BY Edward McGowan

Gabrielle @ Oui Photographed by Salim Berrada, Styled by Marie Revelut, Photo Assistants: Victor Gautier & Justine Romuald, Hair: Vladimir Vreba, Make up : Sylvie Mainville, Make up assistant : Sarah Da Silva, Studio : 5 Monkeys Studio - Paris

BY Frederic Monceau

“MISSING HOPE IN A TOWN OF STRANGERS” BY Marek Wojciak

“COP. COPINE US “ BY Stefania Pruscino

ON THE COVER:

“SORCERY”

“SAND TOMB “ BY Danielle Korman

053 P. 115

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“NEVERMORE” BY Evelyn Murphy

“LOST LOVE” BY Rikke Hass Christensen “THE SKIN I LOVE” BY Sarah Blake “BITCHCRAFT” BY Tony Webster “FEMME FATALE” BY Vincent Gotti

233

“THE LAST” BY Amy Nelson-Blain

101

“WHAT THE WATER GAVE ME” BY Ewa Kepys

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“THE LOCKET” BY Atomic Stitches



- L E T T E R F ROM T H E E D I TO R

Hal l oween is right aro u n d th e c o rn e r, a n d Vol um e XIV brings some d a rke r fa s h io n in s p ira tion for tho se of yo u still lo o kin g f o r a c o s t u me . You know wh o are : that in d ividual wh o a lwa y s has gr and pla n s o f e labora te cos t u me s wh o always wai ts until la st minute and a lwa y s h a s high hopes fo r n e xt ye a r. We ll, it ’s O c t o b e r 1 s t and you still have ple n ty of time t o g e t in t h e H allow een spirit. Th is ye a r it’s time t o d ro p t h e costum e- i n-a-b o x a n d emb race s o me c re a t iv it y. M aybe the haunting ima g e ry of Vo lu me X I V c a n spar k your imagin a tio n and b rin g t h a t f a s h io n elem ent to th is ye a r ’s costume . Vol um e XIV sh o wca ses designers f ro m a ro u n d the globe with a flair for th e dra ma t ic . De n ver - based de sig n e r S u san Dillo n g ra c e s o u r pages with h e r e labora te h a ts. C h e c k o u t her featur e a n d K itty Mae Millinery f o r a c o s tum e star ter kit. Creating a co stu me f ro m t h e head down h a s n e ver been so e a s y, a n d h e r head- pieces are to die fo r. Photogr aphe r A my Ne lso n -B la in s h o wc a s e s a m yr i ad of ama zin g gown s in h e r e d it o ria l. Fr om Bei Na Wei (www.bein a wei. c o m) t o B rigitte M ay ( www.brigitte may.co m), y o u c a n f in d som e of the most b reath taking e v e n in g we a r that easily translate s into Ha llo we e n a p p a re l. Jute M agazin e ch a lle n g e s you to t h in k o u t s id e of the box this Hallowe e n se a son. S e n d u s your cr eati ve a n d fa shio n a b le Hallo we e n c o s tum es thi s seaso n fo r a ch a n ce t o b e f e a t u re d on our Facebook page. S e n d pho t o s o f y o u in your costume d ire ctly to me ! Lynz i@ju t e f a s h i onm agazine.com H appy costu me h u n tin g !

XOXO,

Lynzi Editor-in-Chief

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c ontr ibutors editor-in-chief Lynzi Judish copy editor Chloe Bundt features editor Stefania Pruscino marketing director Nicole Schaap

contributing photgraphers S tefani a P rusci no Yi nsey Wang featured artists A ndrew K al ashni kov C op. C opi ne U S A Joe Freyta K i tty Mae Mi l l i nery

designer Randy Tran webitorial designer Matthew Vita faces designer Maya McComas web developer Dave Brown editor’s assistant Brien Excell Hollowell contributing photgraphers Aar on M c P olin Am y Nels on Annie G len B uad o C hair it P r apal D anielle Chau Edwar d M c G owa n Em ilia G at s on Em ily S andif er Eve ly n M ur phy Ewa K epy s Franc e Weav er Freder ic M onc ea u Gray s on Hoff m a n Jer am ie Cam pbe l l Kay lin A m abile L i z B es ans on L udo Hant on Lynz i J udis h Paulina S ols k i Mar ek Wojc iak Mi u Ver m illion R i k k e Has s Chr i s te n s e n Salim B er r ada Sar ah B lak e Tony Webs t er Vi n c ent G ot t i

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Shirt and Skirt Vintage from The Revival, Trench Jacket Burberry

MONSTERS ARE A GIRL’S

BESTFRIEND PHOTOGRAPHED&ILLUSTRATED BY KAYLIN AMABILE MODEL | DAKOTA ZORDAN STYLIST | CHRISTINA FLANNERY HAIR & MAKE UP | LAURA BARONE OF BLEND TRUE

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Leather crop top with cross by Amanda DeLeon, Long sleeved undershirt by Vintage from The Revival Outpost, Red vinyl dress by Hi/LoÂ

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Dress by Vintage from Frolic ExchangeÂ

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Gold dress by Amanda DeLeon

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Gold dress by Amanda DeLeon

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Two piece pant suit by Amanda DeLeon

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Gown by Michael Cinco, Ring by Tebazile, Bracelet by Kuumba, Ears by AGABUB

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DOWN THE

RABBIT HOLE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNIE BUADO MODEL | ISABELLE SANDMEYER @ NO TIES MANAGEMENT & ELITE NY STYLIST | JOHN DE PERALTA HAIR | KELLY MCLAREN MAKE UP | ANTON KURNIAWAN PHOTO ASSISTANTS | APRILLE GRACE, DAMION LEVIAS

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Jacket by Phuong My, Pants by Reiss, Shoes by Alexander McQueen, Body jewelry by The Ruby Vintage, Ears by JDP Studios

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Gown by Michelle Hebert, Shoes by Alexander McQueen, Ring by Coronet Diamonds

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Gown by Phuong My, Shoes by Jimmy Choo, Ring by Coronet

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Gown by Vvigoure, Ring by Kuumba

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DEVIL’S WHISPER PHOTOGRAPHED BY AARON MCPOLIN DESIGNER | ZHIVAGO AT LOST SOULS STYLIST | VITALY NIGHTROAD MODELS | VITALY NIGHTROAD, ALEECIA JAE DAWSON, AND MLEE BLASPHEMY HAIR & MAKEUP | ARTISTIC VISIONS

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Bustier by Agent by Agent Provocateur

ADORNED IN

DREAM PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHAIRIT PRAPAI

STYLISTS | ALEXA CHEN & HAEUN BAE MAKEUP | CARMEL PEREIRA HAIR | YUMI NOH MODELS | BROOKE AND CLAIRE JONES @ LENI’S MODEL MANAGEMENT PHOTO ASSISTANTS | MIBUCHI HISASHI & KEI TERAYAMA

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Top and Short by Natalie Bouloux

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Dress by La Perla, Harness by Zana Bayne, Shoes by Kurt Geiger

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Claire wears: Chain Jumpsuit by Manuel Diaz Brooke wears: Top by Natalie Bouloux, Belt by Zana Bayne, Shoes by Office

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Brooke wears: Bustier by Zana Bayne, Shoes by Kurt Geiger Claire wears: Harness by Zana Bayne, Shoes by Kurt Geiger

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Dresses by Manuel Diaz

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PRIS PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIELLE CHAU STYLIST | JURGA CELIKIENE HAIR & MAKEUP | JURGA CELIKIENE MODEL | GEORGIA KNIPE @ SCENE MODEL MANAGEMENT

Leather Jacket by Izzi, Necklace & Ring by Lovisa

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Top by NG Tulle, Shoes by Rubi Shoes, Necklace by Lovisa

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leotard by signe incognito, Boots by Blowfish, Pant Hose by Clio


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Strapless Dress (worn backwards) by Supré,

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Skirt by ICE, Shoes by London Rebel, Jacket by Tripp NYC

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Bustier by Maestro, Boots by Blowfish, Bracelet by Dior, Headpiece by Clegs.

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Top by Blacklickorish, Earrings by nin3, Bikini Bottoms by Xhilaration

SAND TOMB PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIELLE KORMAN MODEL | NATALIA SELEVANOVA HAIR STYLIST | LAURYN TYZBIR MAKEUP ARTIST | NICOLE LIND

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Bodysuit by Blacklickorish, Earrings by nin3, Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell

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Pantsuit by Blacklickorish

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Black Mini Cocktail Dress by Blacklickorish

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Vest by Beautiful Addiction

[


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SUSAN DILLON OF

Kitty Mae Millinery & Accessories WRITTEN BY STEFANIA PRUSCINO

Susan Dillon, the designer behind the cult favorite brand Kitty Mae Millinery, sat down with Features Editor, Stefania Pruscino, for an intimate look into her life, brand, and what inspires her to create amazing one-ofa-kind headpieces and accessories for her international clientele. Through the use exotic fabrics and a penchant for detail, each piece is exquisitely handcrafted by Mrs. Dillon herself. And in accordance with her self-taught background, she continues to spend her free time further perfecting her artistry.

FOR THIS FEATURE:

CHLOE BUNDT PHOTOGRAPHED BY LYNZI JUDISH, HAIR AND MAKEUP: RACHEL SCHIENLIE

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“Creating a perfect balance IS what I like and love to do ”

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I read that you made your first mini top hat for a burlesque performance. Do you still have this piece, and how did you come up with your stage name and eventual company name: Miss Kitty Mae Cupcake? I am a bigger woman and wanted a stage name that was sweet, but also had a southern feel to it--since I am from Mississippi. The name came along right within my need of creating a perfect balance between what I like and love to do. The hat that is mentioned on my online biography was actually my second mini hat I ever made. The first one was horrific! However, yes, I still do have the hat and still wear it from time to time. What prompted you to make your first mini hat and when did you know that you wanted to become a milliner? I learned to sew at a very young age and I do enjoy making things myself, so that and the fact that I couldn’t find anything I liked online is how I decided to make my own hat. I did a search online on how to make costume millinery and then by trial and error was able to create my own. During this time I feel in love with the process and it’s what I enjoy more than anything. After I made my first hat in 2008, I then began my bridal collection in 2010. And then, I began learning how to make traditional block hats in 2012. What is your design process? My design process varies. I first get inspired by materials or by another designer’s collection, or even an outfit. Other times, a random idea will pop in my head and I’ll go from there. As far as constructing the hats, it depends on what I am creating. Right now, I’m making more block hats--which is forming the materials around a wooden form. The different shape you want comes with its own wooden form and you can combine it with different brims and crowns. I’ll add different pieces to the brim too, either to stretch it out or make the brim flip up. Anything the client wants or that I believe would make the design stand out.

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What is the difference between tra-

I have noticed that after the Royal

Block hat making is when the blocker

ess Catherine in 2011, there has been

ditional block hats and fascinators? gives the hat their shape by forming it

on a wooden block that is specific to the hat. The wooden block can be made in

all shapes and sizes, depending on what

the client wants. Fascinators are different because they need to be pinned to the

head, whereas, block hats are made to fit around the circumference of your head. Which designers, past or present

do you look up to for inspiration? I

know it’s not politically correct, but John Galliano is a brilliant designer. Losing

Alexander McQueen was a huge loss to

the creative world of fashion; I very much admire his work. I also like Tom Ford and Vivienne Westwood. I gravitate towards

designers with an edge, who knows how to make things beautifully but also know how to make things creatively. Anything

from clean lines to extreme excess is also

wedding of Prince William and Duchan increase in media coverage sur-

rounding hats and fascinators. Have

you seen an increase in popularity in the US as well? Oh, absolutely! It has

probably been one of the best things to happen for women in the US as far as

learning how to wear hats for events. Af-

ter the royal wedding women were able to see real people wearing hats to places. It wasn’t in a movie, or a costume, but real women wearing amazing hats and how

they managed to pull the outfits together. I think that that let American women see

the possibilities and lead to an increase in demand. As a result I have definitely seen an increase in my business. Right now, I

have had a lot of people request hats for weddings to upgrade their outfits since

they now know how to make it work with their look.

an inspiration. Really, anything out of the

You are internationally known for your

from it. I am also equally inspired by

lia. What other countries have com-

ordinary I will find some sort of inspiration vintage and historical eras such as: the

Victorian and Edwardian era, as well as the 1920’s and 1940’s.

It seems that in the 1920’s and 1940’s

American women were more inclined

to wear hats. After this time, the trend

dissipated in the US but still continued to flourish abroad. Why do you think

hats, especially in the UK and Austramissioned your work? At this point,

I have had hats that have been bought

or have traveled to all continents except for Africa and Antarctica. I also get a lot

of orders from people who are traveling

abroad and want one of a kind headpiece for weddings or other events so that

they feel they fit in culturally. Also, when

anything is costume made for you, there is

American women stopped wearing

a certain amount of prestige in that. Every

said that initially women did not want to

detail is perfect. Each hat takes about 4-10

hats? I read an interesting article that

ruin their bouffant hairstyle, made popular by Jacqueline Kennedy. Later, when the

piece is hand made and I make sure every hours of actual labor.

Women’s Liberation Act was initiated

And finally, who would you love to see

too feminine. At the time it was perceived

I would love to see someone like Jennifer

women shunned anything that seemed

as weak and that image is what American woman wanted to fight. In Europe this

sentiment wasn’t felt as strongly as it was in the US, hence the disappearance of the hat as an accessory.

wearing one of your designs and why? Lawrence wearing one of my pieces be-

cause she is a woman with a good head on her shoulders. I love confident women who don’t feel like they need to compromise their principles in order to do what they

want to do. Any woman like that, I would love to see in one of my designs.

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Q U E S T I O N S

W I T H

Cop. Copine & Dr. Lillie Mosaddegh B Y

S T E F A N I A

P R U S C I N O

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What first drew you towards the

tions to Europe in part to gussy up my

It all started during my early vacations

After much soul-searching, I finally

brand?

to Europe. I was always drawn to the

uniqueness of the brand, the cut, the style and affordability. Every time I visited Paris, I found myself buying at least

60-80 pieces from Cop.Copine. Even

when I had another store to shop at, something would always draw me back to Cop.Copine. It’s the same reason that our customers love our collection.

Which charitable causes will Cop. Copine

US

be

supporting?

Cop.

Copine is not just another fashion brand; it has a social responsibility. We have always believed and are working towards a plan:

1. To save sight

2. To help kids realize their potential

3. To empower women all over the world

to live up to their potential and do more in life

What first drew you to Cop Copine

and what influenced you to buy the exclusive rights for the US? I always

wardrobe.

snatched up the U.S rights for the boutique and opened our first one in the

Union Square neighborhood of San Francisco, followed by one in Chicago and later in Pasadena, CA. How do you manage being a leader

in the field of ophthalmology and the owner of Cop. Copine US? What do

you enjoy about each business? I look at my profession as a doctor and I see

art in what I do; I look at my profession

as an entrepreneur in fashion and I see art there as well. I think it’s the art that

gets me. I am also very detailed oriented; I observe every single detail in any-

thing that I come across. Just like there’s a lot of detail in an ensemble that’s well

put-together, there’s also very delicate detail in operating on the eyes and I see

both. My professions blend so well together.

loved the brand and made yearly vaca-

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What are your three favorite looks

Uniformity can limit the creativity in any

Where was the US Cop. Copine bou-

Top: PRINCIPE

For us, every little detail counts: the cut,

you see the brand expanding in the

from each collection for A/W?

This complete outfit: blouse GALLIENI, top LEPANTO, skirt TIBURTINA

This complete look: foulard BANDANA, pullover JAURES, skirt GRACIA

product and we don’t want to do that. the color, the zips, the snaps and buttons. We focus on quality vs. quantity, and for this reason each piece is made in limited quantity every season.

If you had to sum up Cop Copine US

What is the demography of the Cop.

would they be? High quality, Versatile,

Our brand appeals to a great demo-

A/W collection in three words, what & Chic

What are your personal favorites from

the fall collection? Which pieces do you think every woman should own?

There are several, but here’s a few:

KLEBER cape, SULLY pullover, RIVAS tunic, LAVISTA dress, PILICO vest.

Instead of mass production, Cop.

Copine US is made in limited quantities. What are the benefits of this?

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Copine US woman?

graphic not only socioeconomic-wise, also age-wise. Let’s not forget that we

tique opened first? And where do future?

Our US flagship store opened in 2009

at the prestigious Union Square in

San Francisco, CA. Our second store opened in Chicago, IL and now our third

in Pasadena, CA. We have big plans to

expand in the near future, online and in-

stores so every woman has access to our collection.

provide great quality at a great price.

How has the design aesthetic of Cop.

shopping with their mothers and we also

We all know that fashion evolves with

For this reason, we have 16 year olds have 80 year olds visiting our boutique.

It’s often that we see an entire family – daughter, mother, and grandmother -

shop with us at the same time, and this

is a great testament to the versatility of Cop. Copine.

Copine changed over the years?

time. Although our basic philosophy and designs have always been chic and versatile, we have always been a fashion-forward company. We forecast the colors and designs that will appeal in the

coming seasons and stay ahead of all competition.


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VAMP PHOTOGRAPHED BY EDWARD MCGOWAN

MODEL | MICHELINE PITT STYLIST | KRISTY DAVIDSON WARDROBE | PINUP GIRL CLOTHING MAKE-UP | JOHN STAPLETON HAIR | JUDD MITNER

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DESCENT PHOTOGRAPHED BY EMILIA GASTON DESIGNER | CHARLES SMITH II STYLIST | CHELCIE GUIDRY HAIR & MAKEUP | ASHLEY WHITBY MODEL | STEVI DAUGHERTY

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Shoes by Audrey Brooke

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Shoes by Steve Madden

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The Gentlemen Laments

HIS DEATH PHOTOGRAPHED BY EMILY SANDIFER DESIGNER | CHARLES SMITH II HAIR | ALEX @ VINNY’S BARBER MODEL | TJ DALRYMPLE @ CLEAR TALENT GROUP LOS ANGELES

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Eyepatch and corset Monstruosite by Dolly Donshey

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NEVER MORE PHOTOGRAPHED BY EVELYN MURPHY MODEL | SCARLETT WILDE MAKE-UP | TIINIA AULER

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Feather collar by Alex London

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Gas Mask by Trudi Bell, Mannequin heads supplied by Reindeer Manor

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Hat by Dolly Donshey

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Gloves by Neiman Marcus

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WHAT THE WATER

GAVE ME PHOTOGRAPHED BY EWA KĘPYS

DESIGNER | SICCONE SEBASTIAN SZCZEPAŃSKI STYLIST | KATARZYNA SOKOŁOWSKA CROWNS | PAULINA NOWAK MAKEUP | KLAUDIA MAJEWSKA MODEL | BASIA MAJDER @ NEW AGE MODELS PHOTO ASSISTANTS | EDMUND MAGDEBURSKI & KAMIL SAWNOR

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Black dress by Tramp, Earrings by Atomic Stitches

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THE LOCKET

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ATOMIC STITCHES

MODEL | SCARLET KILGANNON MAKE-UP | ASHLEY COMBS WITH A VINTAGE AFFAIR WITH BEAUTY LOCATION | OHMEGA SALVAGE BERKELEY, CA

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Hat by Atomic Stitches, Doll head brooch by Atomic Stitche, Jacket by Forever 21


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SORCERY PHOTOGRAPHED BY FREDERIC MONCEAU ART DIRECTOR | RAPHAEL TOUREILLE STYLIST | TATIANA TERRINE MAKEUP | DELPHINE PERROT MODELS | ERIC SAKAI & LUCIE CLEMENT

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Mantle by Agnes B., Top by Tilde Bay Kristoffersen - Muuse, Skirt by Courreges

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Hat byAgnes B., Jacket by Agnes B., Shirt by Agnes B., Trousers by Hannibal from Springsioux Paris

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Mantle by Agnes B.

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Eric wears: Shirt by Agnes B., Trousers by Hannibal from Springsoux Paris, Waistcoat by Hannibal from Springsoux Paris, Boots by Agnes B., Sunglasses by Stella McCartney Lucie wears: Stole by Cacharel, Leather Jacket by Guess Jeans, Sunglasses by Ralph Lauren, Shoes by Suecomma Bonnie

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Vest by Courreges, Sunglasses by Ralph Lauren

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Vest by Courreges, Trousers by Agnes B., Sunglasses by Stella McCartney

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Eric wears: Sweater by Phillip Plein, Sweater by 5PREVIEW Lucie wears: Coat by Agnes B., Top by 5PREVIEW, Leggings by 5PREVIEW

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Eric wears: Jacket by Hannibal from Springsioux Paris, Shirt by Agnes B., Trousers by Agnes B. Lucie wears: Sweater by Phillip Plein, Skirt by Agnes B.

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Dress by Heidi Paula - MUUSE, Gloves by Agnes B.

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Necklaces by Thierry Mugler, Dress by Chanel Vintage, Ring by And I, Shoes by Vincent Botessi

WICCA PHOTOGRAPHED BY SALIM BERRADA STYLIST | MARIE REVELUT HAIR | VLADIMIR VREBA MAKEUP | SYLVIE MAINVILLE MAKEUP ASSISTANT | SARAH DA SILVA MODEL | GABRIELLE @ OUI PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT |VICTOR GAUTIER & JUSTINE ROMUALD STUDIO | 5 MONKEYS STUDIO - PARIS

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Top by Didit, Skirt by Stella Cadante

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Jacket by Didit, Hat & Scarf by DONIA ALLEGUE, Boots by Mexicana, Bracelet by Thierry Muggler Vintage

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Necklaces by Thierry Muggler Vintage, Dress by Corrie Nielsen

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Dress by Defined Moment

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Hat by Defined Moment, Dress by Clarisse Hieraix

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IN FINE

FEATHER PHOTOGRAPHED BY GRAYSON HOFFMAN DESIGNER | METAMORPHDK STYLIST | JAMIE HOFFMAN HAIR & MAKEUP | A. DEE MODEL | AZURE SANTOS SPIDER PROVIDED BY UNDERGROUND REPTILES

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Team Credits: Natalie Wolt @ nxtlMODEL Photographed by Paulina Solski, Designer/Stylist: Joseph Freyta Hair and Makeup: Becca BE

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Tekeda: I am Here INTERVIEW BY STEFANIA PRUSCINO

Joseph Freyta’s is an emerging and talented fashion designer from Colorado. His senior showcase entitled, I am Tekeda, is a capsule collection of different mental stages. From exploring feelings of confinement to discovering absolute freedom, Freyta’s counterbalance to life’s tumultuous emotions are not made clear within his designs, but also reflect the dichotomy of his personal aesthetic. I was fortunate to be able to interview Mr. Freyta about his collection, his journey in becoming a designer, and what he wishes for in the future. Joseph, you’re originally from Colorado and now reside in Denver. Has living here influenced you as a designer? It has and it also has not. It has influenced me in a way that made me want to reach out; to see more and know more. Interesting. Did you always know you wanted to become a designer? Throughout my life there were times when I thought that’s what I wanted to do (become a designer), but then I always told myself ‘never mind’ and did something else. I went to CSU (Colorado State University) for a while and felt really out of place there.

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I see. So was there a pivotal moment while attending CSU that made you realize design was your calling? My “Aha!” moment came when I was walking around alone in the middle of the night and went to the library and picked up an issue of WWD magazine. I was flipping through the pages and I came across this editorial for Lanvin. The model was wearing this beautiful wind swept dress and it was the weirdest moment because I remember getting chills just looking at it. It was just the most beautiful dress I had ever seen. That was the catalyst for me - and after a series of odd events - I found myself signing up for it (design), a year or two later. It was definitely destiny. That’s brilliant! If you had not decided to become a designer, what would you be doing instead? Man, I don’t know! If I weren’t designing I don’t know JUTE MAGAZINE | PAGE 143

what else I would be doing. I probably wouldn’t be in school. I would probably be in retail and not working [towards] anything. I always think of that Lupe Fiasco song where he says, “hip-hop saved my life,” and I think that fashion saved mine. It would seem that you have found your calling. Speaking of calling, what does Tekeda mean? It’s an acronym for my name. Well, actually, it’s more than just that. A long time ago I used the Wu Tang Name Generator and the name given was Eurythmic King of Nowhere. I wanted to expand on that name and I changed it to Eurythmic King of Design and Art which eventually turned into Tekeda. Tekeda itself doesn’t mean anything, which is what I wanted. I wanted it to sound broad--in that it doesn’t have an origin, or a time stamp. It’s a name you can expand upon and go wherever you want with it.


The name of your latest collection is called I am Tekeda, which is a very powerful title. Can you expand on the meaning and source of inspiration? Thank you. The I am Tekeda collection was sort of like a big stamp of I am here. The inspiration was of duality and playing with different mental states, like the juxtaposition of chaos and clarity, confined and free, hard yet soft. So, a lot of my pieces are made to counterbalance themselves.

vin editorial inspired you to become a designer. What other designers or brands do you look up to? A lot, but some of my favorites are: KTZ, Stella McCartney, Balmain, Mary Katrantzou, and definitely Alexander Wang. Oh, yes. Alexander Wang is one of my favorite designers too!

The woman I want to design for is very strong in my mind. Someone who doesn’t apologize for being who she wants to be, someone who takes charge, someone who isn’t afraid to stand out.

His collections and shows are beautiful. I just love how clean his designs are. He’s definitely someone I look up to. I’m a big fashion nerd--if you will, and a lot of the shows I watch blow me away because of the creativity level. Also, knowing the process that must go into making something that beautiful makes me appreciate it so much more because I know all the work and time that was put into it.

So, when you’re creating a collection do you have her in mind? What is your design process?

When you’re not working or designing your next collection what do you like to do?

I definitely have her in mind. My process is very mindful. I’ll have a second of inspiration and then spend weeks planning on how I will accomplish it, and then I begin making it. I like to use natural fabrics such as leather, denim, and knit mixed with spandex because it has more structure but still stretches. Using these materials require me to be very meticulous about every detail and that’s why planning is so important in my process. Another important part of my process is the naming of the collection and garments. I name these through folklore and history. I use a lot of different mythologies or languages. In my senior collection the names of the garments were in Latin, in other collections it was a mixture of Egyptian and Greek goddesses.

JI rarely have any free time, but I do like to travel. I would say that traveling is my second passion. I was just in New York and it was great! So whenever I get the chance I’d like to go to Morocco or St. Tropez or anywhere in Europe for that matter. Europe is so rich in culture and history and I definitely want to experience that atmosphere.

Very intriguing, so what kind of woman is the Tekeda woman?

*Joseph Freyta is a senior at the Art Institute of Colorado. *You can find him on instagram @ josephtekeda

You design for both men and women. Moving forward, which will be your main focus? JDefinitely womenswear will be my main focus, because it is at the point where anything sort of goes. You can basically be as creative and innovative as you want. Menswear is getting there, but it’s not at that level. I do love to create menswear, and I love making things that I can wear, but with women it’s almost expected to make [something] crazier because women can pull it off better. You said previously that the Lan-

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Andrew Kalashnikov INTERVIEW BY YINSEY WANG

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Saint Petersburg-based Andrew Kalashnikov tells stories through his pieces. As a photographer with a strong love of cinem a, his compositions are filled with mystery and elements of darkness. Of particular interest is his use of color and lighting to create striking images. Discovered by Dazed Digital, Kalashnikov has displayed his works in Rick Owens’ corner in Printemps, Paris and the Diesel Reboot exhibition in Les Galeries Lafayette. He has been published in various magazines including Rolling Stone, Women’s Health, and The Printed Blog. A graduate of the University of Cinema, Kalashnikov supports his visionary talents through hard work, dedication and ambition. He shares his thoughts with Yinsey Wang on his success so far, as well as his reflections on his past achievements and work. Your images have elements of darkness in them. Why do you think this underlying feel is present in your images? I intended to make my work cinematic and dark. From the beginning of a piece’s conception, I would have planned in my mind what I wanted from the piece. I would not have pursued photography as a career just for the money; it is the creative element that is key to me. What has been the greatest influence on your work? Life, my interest in dark, moody things, and cinema. I graduated from the University of Cinema, watching a lot of movies like crazy during my studies. They have definitely influenced my work as a result.

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You’ve only been doing photography since 2011. How have you managed to improve so quickly? When you devote your free time to learn, make mistakes, and grow as an artist, forces tend to help you reach your goals. All that I have achieved was not by chance. Frankly, at first it seemed difficult to convince anyone that I could make it with my dark work and shoot for big magazines. Regardless of having been published in magazines, I am still an independent artist. What is the most crucial element to ensure success on a photo shoot? Organization is crucial. Good communication between members of a creative team on set is important. A bit of creative spontaneity also helps. You’ve only been doing photography since 2011. How have you managed to improve so quickly? When you devote your free time to learn, make mistakes, and grow as an artist, forces tend to help you reach your goals. All that I have achieved was not by chance. Frankly, at first it seemed difficult to convince anyone that I could make it with my dark work and shoot for big magazines. Regardless of having been published in magazines, I am still an independent artist. What is the most crucial element to ensure success on a photo shoot? Organization is crucial. Good communication between members of a creative team on set is important. A bit of creative spontaneity also helps.


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Tell us about living in Saint Petersburg. Does being in this culture-rich city influence your creativity and passion for creating art? Saint Petersburg has a fabulous scene. It is full of museums, culture and castles. Considering the fact that the most of my works were created here, the city has undoubtedly influenced me. For the past years, I undertook outdoor photo shoots at all the locations I wanted. At least, it seems so. Otherwise, creativity depends on an artist’s current state of mind and motivation instead of his location. Sometimes you are so focused on something that you completely forget where you are. I should say my inspiration comes spontaneously (and goes, too). Tell us how and why you started photography. Was it something you picked up gradually or something you just found yourself becoming quickly addicted to? I planned to do three projects just JUTE MAGAZINE | PAGE 151

for fun and then quit. The rest is history. Briefly, before photography, I was involved in many creative projects: helped with postproduction, video design, and writing, etc. Then, I was motivated to do my own stuff. People said I was good at it, so I took more and more pictures. When you have accomplished most of your creative goals before reaching 25 years of age, it gets harder to challenge yourself! Frankly, it’s difficult to say what keeps me going now. Can you tell us about which piece of photography means the most to you and why. I guess that my personal projects mean the most — in the ‘projects’ section on my website. It’s great to photograph with no deadlines or other limitations. You can find fine art, narratives, and landscapes here. They mean the most to me and through them, I recall particular memories. Enigma (an outdoor fashion campaign) is very striking and haunting. The best piece I’ve ever done in a commercial genre is a campaign with a

mysterious model by the waterfall with long white hair. Tell us your most memorable experience doing photography. On my waterfall shoot, where I fell in before the shoot started (it was quite ‘refreshing!’), or on the shoot where I was at a cemetery in Milan--we couldn’t find the way out (as it’s huge), or shooting Tricky who was totally dazed! I have a lot of memories from my experiences in photography. If you had the chance to photograph anyone, living or dead, who would it be? Any music bands. I’ll be proud to shoot stunning photos for record covers and booklets. I’d ideally like to work for Garbage and The War on Drugs.


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FRANKIE’S EX PHOTOGRAPHED BY JERAMIE CAMPBELL HAIR | SARAH ECHELLE MAKEUP | ALLYSSA MUSZYNSKI MODEL | DOROTHY RENA

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THE

PUNK WITHIN PHOTOGRAPHED BY LIZ BESANSON STYLIST | ELAINE FIORAVANTI MAKEUP | PATRICIA SOLIS MODEL | ALIX MCCABE

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Earrings by Sorrelli, Cuffs by Sorrelli, Coin Bracelet is Vintage

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Faux Fur by Ann Taylor, Earrings by Sorrelli

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Skirt by Topshop, Jeans by H&M, Boots by Tommy Hilfiger, Earrings by Charming Charles, Rings and Cuffs by Mimi by Sorrelli

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Blouse by Central Park West, Jeans by MIA & MOSS, Faux Fur by Wendy Hill, Necklace by Sorrelli, Earrings by Givenchy, Bracelets by Alex & Ani

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Faux Fur by Skaist & Taylor, Skirt by BEBE, Boots by Tommy Hilfiger, Hat by Kangol, Earrings by Sorrelli

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Gown by Dave & Johnny, Top by Kensie, Harness by American Apparel, Hat by Kangol, Earrings by Givenchy, Necklace and Cuff by Sorrelli

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Faux Leater Dress by Ivy & Blu, Faux Fur by Ann Taylor, Boots by Aldo

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NOT YET PHOTOGRAPHED BY LUDO HANTON STYLIST | MAAME NSIAH HAIR | CHRISTOPHE LAMBENNE MAKEUP | CRYSTAL DIE MODEL | LAURENCE @ FLAG MODELS AGENCY

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Dress by Dries Van Noten

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Dress by The Row

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MISSING HOPE IN A TOWN

OF STRANGERS

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAREK WÓJCIAK DESIGNER | MAŁGORZATA MOTAS MODEL | DOMINIKA KOCHANECKA

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MIASMA PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIU VERMILLION STYLIST | LEONID GUREVICH STYLIST’S ASSISTANT | JANNA TEMKINS AND JENNEKA TEMKINS MAKEUP | MARAZ & AYA KUDO HAIR | LORENZO DIAZ & TAKAYOSHI TSUKISAWA MODELS | KIM D, IFY J, IVANKA K, ANNABELLE L, LEEN, & ANASTASIA V PHOTO ASSISTANT | ANNE DIXON

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Dress by VENEXIANA, Coat by PARADOX DESIGNS, Necklace and round ring by CLARA KASAVINA, Purple ring by MIRANDA HOPE, Bracelets by GBGH Jewelry

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Dress by ANGELOU LAMBROU, Necklaces, bracelets, and rings by GBGH JEWELRY

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Dress by LEONID GUREVICH, Necklace by CLARA KASAVINA, Bracelets and rings by GBGH JEWELRY

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Dress by Felipe TONETTE, Necklace by GBGH JEWELRY, Earrings, bracelet, rings by CLARA KASAVINA

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Corset by PARADOX DESIGNS, Dress by MIMI PROBER, Necklaces by CLARA KASAVINA, Bracelets & rings by GBGH JEWELRY, Shoes by ZACK LO

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Dress by LEONID GUREVICH, Necklace by CLARA KASAVINA, Bracelets and rings by GBGH JEWELRY

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Dress by ANGELOU LAMBROU, Necklaces, bracelets, rings by GBGH JEWELRY

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Dress by KRISTIN COSTA, Necklace by SHOP 3NY, Bracelet by CLARA KASAVINA, Rings by GBGH JEWELRY

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LOST LOVE PHOTOGRAPHED BY RIKKE HASS CHRISTENSEN CLOTHES | BEYOUND RETRO, LONDON HAIR & MAKEUP | ELLIE BLACKWELL MODEL | CARLA @ HEARTBREAK MANAGEMENT

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THE SKIN I

LIVE IN PHOTOGRAPHED BY SARAH BLAKE CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES | ATILEA MAKEUP | DEANNA GLADYS BISNAR MODEL | ALISSA POLANSKI @ MODEL UNION

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Charlotte weaars: Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell, Belt by Jimmu Choo Gemma is wears: Dress by Topshop, Necklace by Butler & Wilson, Boots by Jeffrey Campbell Laura is wears: Bodysuit by Topshop, Kimono by Missguided

BITCHCRAFT PHOTOGRAPHED BY TONY WEBSTER STYLIST | KELSEY SIMPSON HAIR | KELSEY SIMPSON MAKEUP | MELANIE LYTTLE MODEL | LAURA IRVINE, CHARLOTTE ROSE GORDON & GEMMA FAULKNER

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Top Hat by Stephen Jones, Peter Pan Shirt by ASOS

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Blouse by Allsaints Spitalfields, Tartan Skirt by The Ark, Boots by Jeffery Campbell

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Dress by American Apparel, Cardigan by Topshop, Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell, Necklace by New look

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Laura wears : Crop Jumper by American Apparel, Leather coat by River Island, Red Tartan Skirt by The Ark Gemma wears: Top Hat by Stephen Jones, Black Lace Bralet by Asos, Shirt by ASOS, Pink Tartan Skirt by American Apparel Charlotte wears: Blouse by Allsaints Spitalfields, Green Tartan Skirt by The Ark, Necklace by Topshop

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Laura wears: Coat by Riverisland Charlotte wears : Blouse by Allsaints Spitalfields, Necklace by Topshop

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Dress by Topshop, Lita Boots by Jeffrey Campbell, Fedora by Topshop

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Charlotte wears: Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell, Belt by Jimmu Choo for H&M Gemma wears: Dress by Topshop, Necklace by Butler & Wilson, Boots by Jeffrey Campbell Laura wears: Bodysuit by Topshop, Kimono by Missguided

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FEMME FATALE PHOTOGRAPHED BY VINCENT GOTTI STYLIST | CHERI WILSON CHAGOLIAN BTS PHOTOGRAPHER | GERARD JUNTILLA PHOTOGRAPHER’S FIRST ASSISTANT & LIGHTING | CHRISTIAN THOMAS EXECUTIVE PRODUCER | AARON MADARIAGA ART DIRECTION | JOHN NELSON JR HAIR | SAMANTHA DELLINGER MAKE UP | KIMM DICATO MODELS | JESSICA TROLLINGER & BRITTANY GRIMMETT @ MYELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT STUDIO | WONDERLAND STUDIOS IN ORANGE COUNTY

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Dress by Yousef Akbar, Jacket by Ying Yuan, Necklace and Rings by Nomiki Glynatsis

THE LAST PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMY NELSON-BLAIN STYLIST | JESSIE MCNAUGHT HAIR & MAKEUP | AMBER ADAMS MODEL | ZINNIA JANIF PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT | NATALIE NGUYEN STYLIST’S ASSISTANT | BRONSON ATKIN

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Dress by Bei Na Wei, Ring by Angle Diamond Dot, Ring by Nomiki Glynatsis, Head Piece by Miss G Designs

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Dress by Julia Logvin, Earrings and Bangle by Angle Diamond Dot, Head Piece by Miss G Designs

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Dress by Boman Leung, Jacket by Yousef Akbar, Earrings by Angle Diamond Dot, Necklace and Ring by Nomiki Glynatsis

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Dress by Jennifer Cai, Shoulder Piece by Grace Bijoux, Necklace and Ring by Nomiki Glynatsis

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Dress by Chantelle Saghabi, Skirt by Age of Intimacy, Earrings and Necklace by Angle Diamond Dot, Boots by Siren

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Dress by Brigitte May, Head and Shoulder Pieces by Grace Bijouxs

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